ABOOK MAGAZINE Issue 17

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2013  june  ISSUE  17

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ABOOK 意團隊文化事業有限公司 104 台北市內湖區港墘路 221 巷 39-1 號 Tel : (02)2657-1666 Fax:(02)2657-1555 Email : hello@abook.cc Website : www.abook.cc

監製 Supervisor : 張艾嘉

s c i t e l h t A d n a m o C

執行 Executive : 林炳存 Joshua Lin

創意總監 Creative Director : 尹培袞 Sean Yin 發行人 Publisher : 賀錫敬 Leo Ho 總編輯 Editor in Chief : 林特

翻譯編輯 Translation Editor :

姜怡帆 Annie Chiang

英國特駐 Overseas Editor : Linda Cooper

採訪編輯 Assistant Editor : 李佾樺 Tim Lee 視覺主編 Design Director : Alex Chang

攝影總監 Photography Director : 林威呈 Wei Lin

攝影編輯 Photography Editors : 林特、張騰元、陳冠璋、Linda Cooper 後製編修 : 王培華 Hingis、陳宛均 kye 造型總監 Styling Director : 林夢薇 Monfi Lin 編輯策劃 Executive Director : 趙欣、桑科 顧問團隊 : 陽帆、廖鎮漢、詹仁雄、林知佑、廖曉喬 色彩管理 : 王振昇 行政管理 : 張騰元 執行公關 : 星予公關 2


p04-07 觀點 / PERSPECTIVE

Stylist's Talk 造型總監 林夢薇

p24-83

p08-15

時尚攝影 / ABOOK FASHION

新銳特急 / ABOOK EXPRESS

Final round, Fight!

The Color Run™

MÉNAGE À TROIS INNER COMPETITION p16-23

Girl Fight

影像視界 / ABOOK GAZE

n o i t i t pe

m

42 公里的一些事 歐 陽 靖

p86-104 本土創意 / TAIWAN TALENTS

攝影師專訪 鏡頭的呼吸律動 余靜萍

Heartbeat of a Dancer-Tsai Lin Wu 舞者的心跳頻率 吳采璘

p106-115 來稿登錄 / FROM READERS

愛情競技 競技

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p62-75 封面故事 / COVER STORY

Tackle, Goal, Touchdown!


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薛 琮 憲 ( Xue ) 高雄人,住在只要花十分鐘走路就可以到海邊的地方,目前在台北熬日子。畫畫是在還 不認識顏色名字的時候就開始的事,後來唸了一些學校,沒長什麼知識,卻養出自己一 套任性的認知。學過平面設計,看到喜歡的風景也會拍下來,寫一點長相不標緻的字。 如果可以知道自己明天要做什麼的話,那我就能去當星座專家。

2009 影像作品收錄於Waterfall Magazine Issue01

2011 From Place to Place 小畫展-台北 / 寶藏巖尖蚪-公園創作聯展-台北 / MadL 替代空間

2012 Cream聯展-台北 / MadL 替代空間–富士快報NyanyaClub插畫繪製 莎妹劇團Show on節目冊插畫繪製 Finn一顆流星企劃形象視覺製作

2013 Finn & 熊寶貝樂團Bearbabes 冬夜小唱HD版 視覺形象製作 好多咖啡forgood cafe 菜單設計與插畫繪製 書封設計與內頁插畫《30街的兩匹斑馬》–讀癮出版

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SP PER

ECT

IVE

S ' T S I L Y T S K L A T 夢薇 林   總監 造型

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「把一堆毫無相干的物件拼湊在一起、放在人的身上、然後拍

The essential job of a stylist is to turn random pieces of clothing into a magnificent outfit. It seems easy, but it’s really not.

照。」造型師的工作簡單說來是這樣,但也可以不是那麼簡單。

Before studying and working abroad, I was very much influenced by western fashion. The stories of the west were so captivating

還沒出國闖蕩之前,大概是受了歐美時尚雜誌的影響,總覺得西

to me; from the remarkable Greek gods to the modern develop-

方文化中的故事內容很吸引人,從古希臘的神祗到近代時裝史,

ments of fashion design, I found myself obsessed with the ideas of the West. It wasn’t until I actually lived abroad and met dif-

想法老是追著這些東西跑。在國外生活的時候,認識了來自不同

ferent friends with different backgrounds, did I start to realize

文化背景的人們,才發現我們自己的文化也是一樣的吸引人,只

that our own culture is just as intriguing and captivating as well.

是一直身在其中,忘了要停下來看看。所以我開始研究一些中國

My favorite creation thus far has to be the ensemble we put

自己的東西,目前為止最喜歡的一個系列還是PARTIME(Abook

together for PARTIME Magazine’s second issue (now Abook Magazine); at the time I was fascinated with traditional Chinese

前身)拓時誌第二期裡,以慈禧太后的造型元素發想的「鬥蘭桂

elements, and thus was inspired by the Empress Dowager and did

彩」。

a tribute to her. At Abook I have a lot of room to be creative. Before a shoot, I

在Abook有很多空間可以創作,討論拍攝的時候,通常我會先把

usually have a mental drawing of what I want to create. I don’t rush into deciding what exact pieces or elements I want to place

整個畫面在腦袋裡先描繪出來,像攝影師那樣思考,先不急著去

on the model because to me having an overall picture is more

想要放什麼東西在模特兒身上,有了畫面以後,就不容易偏離主

important, so that we don’t stray from the main theme.

題,做出來的東西也會比較協調。如果嚴格要說,作造型的時候

Being a stylist requires a good eye, but it requires even more

要用很多眼力,也要用更多想像力。

creativity.

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T

h

C

o 為身上炸開的汗水 與色彩而驕傲!

R

文 / 林特 | 圖 / The Color Run™ 官方提供 8

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o n

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什麼活動讓人甘願長跑五公里,並且一邊跑一邊被彩色顏料攻擊還喜不自勝? The Color Run™大概會是這個夏天,除了音樂季以外,風靡整個台灣的健康活動!從2012 年一月開始,第一個正式的Color  Run在亞利桑那州的鳳凰城展開,創辦人Travis Snyder 是三項全能運動員與路跑狂熱者,他希望能創造一個不具威脅性、有趣的環境,讓專業與 非專業的跑者能跑在一起,享受這項運動的純粹。 2012年,The Color Run™已經跑遍美國的五十個大城與三個國際城市,共有六十萬人次的 參加者,其中六成以上的跑者竟然是第一次跑5k的長度!可見The Color Run™的魅力實在 無人可擋,太好玩了! 幕後黑手Travis Snyder說:「我們每天都在Facebook上收到上百個留言,希望能在他們的 城市舉辦The Color Run™,這實在是讓人太興奮了!這是一個鼓勵人們走出去、跑起來, 享受著和人們一起跑的有趣運動,同時加入了釋放心情的彩色顏料,讓整個活動變成城市 裡最顯眼的亮點!」 The Color Run™就要來台灣了,到時可能不只湧出一堆喜愛馬拉松的人,也會湧出一堆熱 愛夏天的年輕人,還有數以千計的攝影愛好者喔! The Color Run™活動官網: http://thecolorrun.com/

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What kind of event makes you run 5 kilometers, hits you with bursts of color dye, and makes you smile at the end of it all? The Color Run™ is perhaps the most anticipated event for Taiwan this summer. The run is an unique paint race that celebrates healthiness, happiness, individuality, and giving back to the community. It first began in January of 2012 in Phoenix, Arizona. Founder Travis Snyder is a triathlete and avid runner; he wanted to create an event that was fun and non-competitive so that both amateur and professional athletes can run together for the mere love of the sport. In 2012, The Color Run™ was held in over 50 cities across the U.S; Out of the 600,000 participants, over 60% of the Color Runners were first time 5K runners. Travis Snyder says that each day on Facebook they receive hundreds of messages asking for The Color Run™ to come to their city. "It’s exciting because the run has become a positive way for people to come out and bring together friends and family in a unique, healthy, and fun environment". The Color Run™ is soon coming to Taiwan and we’re positive that it will not only attract marathon runners and athletes from all over the island, but it will also be packed with thousands of adrenaline-filled youth, photographers, and life enthusiasts. Official site of The Color Run™: http://thecolorrun.com/

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42公里的一些事 馬拉松,42公里,這項看似不可思議的運動,漸漸成為潮流, 就算跑不完,我們也想穿上跑步鞋和整套裝備追下流行,Abook 在本期的主題之下,想到了歐陽靖。幾年前,她飽受鬱症之擾, 幾年後,她跑完了人生第一個42公里馬拉松,由她來擔任馬拉松 的推手,應該沒有誰更有說服力了。

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一起跑才有趣!

歐陽靖認真開始跑步大約是2011年底,當時應了Nike x Undercover

Gyakusou的拍攝工作,認識了Undercover的高橋盾,同時也

最近歐陽靖與一些志同道合的朋友,包括設計師、體育記

接觸到馬拉松這項運動。「一開始我對馬拉松一點興趣都沒

者、潮牌主理等等各領域的愛跑人,成立了自己的業餘running

有,也一直以為馬拉松都是很注重健康的老人在跑,沒想到

team,這其實是個練跑聚會,目的是為了推廣跑步這件事,

高橋盾這樣的潮流龐克文青也熱愛著馬拉松,而且他是43歲

「我們會想一些有趣的方法來練習,一次5k或6k,可能是晚

才第一次跑全馬,讓我受到很大的驚嚇。」據說高橋盾平時

上八點,領跑的人不會告訴大家路線是什麼,還要安排跑玩

和朋友聚會的時候,就是一群潮流大叔的聚會,聊天的內容

吃宵夜喝酒的地方,每次領跑的人都會輪流,增加跑步的樂

也全都是馬拉松,完完全全著迷於這項運動,也為了馬拉松

趣,讓這件事變得很好玩,也讓自己的running team和別人的不

而放棄許多其他的生活娛樂,讓當時的歐陽靖覺得好驚訝。

一樣。」這個團體的三個女生即將參加6/23的路跑,而且他們 似乎不覺得跑完步去大吃大喝會有什麼影響,或許是因為跑

Gyakusou的拍攝工作讓歐陽靖的壓力異常大,也在這樣的關

步的能量消耗實在是太多了!「要減肥的話再各自去減就好

鍵時期,陪她渡過人生許多低潮時期的貓咪譚大寶過世了,

了啊!」歐陽靖笑著說。「有一個中國的練跑團體取名叫做

「當時沒有經紀公司,所以是一個人去日本工作,日文又不

Mad food,擺明了就是跑完要大吃,其實跑步團體都不太以減

好,一方面很開心接到很大的工作、一方面壓力超大、同時

肥當成目標,大家是覺得跑步很好玩,為了跑而跑。」

又很悲傷,整個情緒打結。」當天晚上歐陽靖在下榻的南青 山,想要跑到便利商店買紅酒,十月份的東京很冷,街道上

上 海 與 廣 州 的 一 些 著 名 running team, 成 員 很 多 都 是 設

許多路人也在跑步,她深受當下眼前的情景感動,便跟著一

計 師 、 DJ這 些 傳 播 文 化 並 愛 好 跑 步 的 人 們 集 結 而 成 ,

起跑,「跑著跑著腦袋裡冒出許多以前的事情,包括自己很

或許是從事的工作上比較容易有號召力,這些練跑團

黑暗時期的事情和譚大寶,過去13年以來只要有什麼不開心

體把馬拉松這項極限到不行的運動擴散得非常快速。

的事情,都是那隻貓在陪我。」一直依賴著的寵物過世了,

「 我 們 希 望 讓 馬 拉 松 變 成 一 件 『 很 潮 』 的 事 情 , 從Gyaku-

歐陽靖當下想要作一件事情來改變人生,「一直以來我的人

sou這 個 品 牌 開 始 , 在 亞 洲 馬 拉 松 就 已 經 開 始 變 得 很 潮 ,

生都好像沒有太確切的目標,也不太知道自己想作什麼,曾

因為成員都是很有帶頭作用、有點影響力的人。」紐

經每天渾渾噩噩,所以我想要作一件過去從來沒做過的事

約 有 一 個 團 體 叫 做 Bridge runner, 是 一 個 DJ每 次 在 半 夜 放

情。」她受到當時總總的事件影響,決定要開始練跑,目標

完歌之後,走布魯克林橋回家,走久了就跑了起來,

是跑完一次完整的馬拉松,也就是整整42公里195公尺。

引 起 許 多 朋 友 響 應 ; 倫 敦 的 一 個 團 體 叫 做 Rondon, 把 他們的上衣設計的很好看,跑起來也特別威。就像一

訓練 = 跑就對了

個潮流品牌的經營包裝一樣,馬拉松因為這些號召 「一起跑」的人,變得好有趣的樣子。

跑步是一件枯燥無聊又漫長的事情,更何況是馬拉松,一跑 就是幾個小時。從小不太擅長運動的歐陽靖一開始體能很

為什麼突然開始跑步?

差,只是憑著一直想要跑完全馬的意志力,在國父紀念館一

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圈1.4公里的距離下,矇著頭跑,一圈圈自己往上加,讓自己

限度,又不講求爆發力,所以要攝取大量的澱粉、碳水化

的身體漸漸可以習慣,只是持續的跑步還需要專業的知識來

合物。碳水化合物是肝醣的唯一來源,跑馬拉松的長時間

讓自己突破。「那時候Nike剛好找我去跑半馬,有一些專業訓

到最後消耗的都是肝醣,有些選手會使用一種肝醣超補法

練課程可以上,才得到更多關於跑步的知識,後來可以每天

(Carbohydrate Loading),在跑前吃大量的麵包、白飯和麵條等

跑到5K到7K左右,還滿拼的。」練到每個禮拜都可以跑一次半

等的澱粉類。跑完馬拉松以後補充熱量也可以減少酸痛,

馬的程度,歐陽靖有機會可以參加名古屋的女子全馬比賽,

喝阿華田之類的飲品是可以的。

「我想也差不多該是時候了,那是全世界最盛大的女子馬拉 松比賽之一。」

適合女生的運動

跑完以後,呼吸著那42公里終點線的空氣,歐陽靖覺得人生

跑馬拉松會消耗掉許多熱量,跑一次全馬可以消耗掉兩千大

變得很不一樣,也建議對自己不太有自信、或是對人生有些

卡,而且不會長肌肉,女生的耐力比較強,所以馬拉松其實

迷惘的人可以開始練跑。「很高興自己強迫自己,堅持了一

是很適合女生的運動,世界上許多超級馬拉松選手也都是

件不容易完成的事情,這完成之後的成就感會讓人對自己的

女生。除非跑步姿勢不對或是體重太重,不然都不會傷害

看法改變,好像意志力變得超強,也多了一件事情可以拿出

膝蓋,只是女生在生理期比較不建議參加馬拉松。

來炫耀。」 練跑的場地 雖然跑步是一件很容易放棄的事情,但跑步卻能讓人不放棄

最好的練跑場地還是一般的馬路,因為馬拉松的比賽場地都

自己。

在馬路上。歐陽靖建議在台北可到國父紀念館或是大安森林 公園,另外松山田徑場之類的PU跑道,平常練跑的時候跑起

歐陽靖提供的練跑知識

來很舒服。跑步機同樣會練到肺活量與持久力,但比較不會 練到腿的推進力。

LSD訓練 馬 拉 松 的 其 中 一 種 訓 練 叫 做 LSD( Long Slow Distance) , 長 距 離、慢速,比如說跑30公里不限時間,是一種訓練肺 活量的方法。馬拉松的練習是為了讓身體習慣持續的 運 動 消 耗 , 如 果 不 能 讓 身 體 輕 鬆 的 跑 完 半 馬 21公 里 , 是不能去跑全馬的,會有些危險,也可能簡短身體運動的 壽命。

飲食 馬拉松的飲食跟一般運動的飲食不同,一般運動講求攝取蛋 白質,但馬拉松是一種極限運動,已經超越人體可以承受的

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The 42K A 42K marathon is no easy task. Those who can complete it are showered with compliments and bathe in sweat and glory; those who cannot finish have fun anyway, partaking in the latest sporting trend and showing off their new running gear. With our theme for this issue, we thought whom better to interview than the lovely Gin Oy who is a model/actress who has recently completed her first 42K marathon. Oy has openly suffered from depression for many years, but she candidly sits down with us to tell us how she has overcome her struggles and how her life has changed through running.

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Running As A Team Sport

Why Run?

Recently, running has become a trendy social activity; Oy

Oy was first introduced to running back in 2011. At the

along with her designer and media friends have started a

time she was shooting a “Nike X Undercover Gyakusou”

“running team” with the goal of promoting running and

campaign and became friends with designer Jun Takashi.

exercise. Oy says, “we usually think of really interesting

Oy says, “at first I wasn’t a tad bit interested in marathon

ways to get people to come out. We usually start around

running because I always thought it was for health-con-

8PM and do a 5K or 6K run. We take turns being the leader

scious old people. I was surprised that someone as punk

and the leader decides on different routes each time. After-

and cool as Jun would be so passionate about it. He was

wards, we all go and eat or drink at a restaurant. It makes

43 when he ran his first marathon, which was even more

it really fun and makes us uniquely different than other

shocking to me”.

running teams”. Oy explains to us that the Gyakusou shoot in Tokyo was Three female members of Oy’s running team is joining the

extremely stressful and at the time her cat of 13 years had

marathon on 6/23, and to them feasting and indulging in

just died. While she was out at night heading to the super-

food after doing a run is not that big of a deal, considering

market to get some wine, she saw many people jogging

how many calories are burned while running. Oy points

outside, and was inspired to start jogging as well. “For 13

out, “no one thinks about dieting! In China there’s a run-

years my cat has been with me through ups and downs. All

ning team who calls themselves ‘Mad Food’; it’s obvious

the past dark memories started coming back to me and I

that the goal is to pig-out after a run, but actually most

realized that I’ve never had any real direction in my life. So

runners aren’t in it to lose weight, but they run for the sake

I made a decision then and there that I wanted to do some-

of running and because it’s fun”.

thing that I’ve never done before, and so I started training for my first marathon”.

In Shanghai and Guangzhou, the running teams usually Training= Just Run

consist of social elites like designers and music DJs who set out to promote a running culture. Oy explains, “we hope

marathon running can become something that is trendy.

Running to many people can be a lengthy and boring en-

With brands like ‘Gyakusou’, marathon running in Asia

deavor. Oy was never very athletic as a child and so at first

is starting to get a lot of attention because members of

it took a lot of willpower to complete her training sessions.

the running community include many influential and well-

Before joining the Nagoya Women’s Marathon, Oy took up

known people”. Other prominent running teams out there

training courses provided by Nike and started running 5-7

include New York’s “Bridge Runner” and London’s “Ron-

kilometers each day. To Oy, marathon running can be great

don” who have created stylish team outfits that have be-

for people who need a confidence booster. Oy says, “ I’m

come a signature fashion brand.

so glad I forced myself to finally complete something that is

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not so easy. It makes me feel like I’ve accomplished some-

which is why marathon running is extremely suitable for

thing and makes me look at myself differently. Running

women. Knee injuries are usually not so common unless

makes you believe in yourself”.

you are running with bad posture or if you are overweight. Women during their menstrual period are not recommend-

It's easy to give up running, but running makes it hard for

ed to participate in marathons.

you to give up on yourself. Training Venues

-Gin Oy’s Running TipsThe best place to train is out on the roads because all LSD Training

marathons are held on city streets. Oy recommends people to run in Daan Park or at Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall. Taipei

LSD (Long Slow Distance) training is where you run a long

Municipal Stadium also has a great track that is great for

distance at a slow speed. For example, running 30 kilom-

lung training, but less effective on training of the legs.

eters with no time limit is a way to train your lungs for extended exercise. An important part of marathon training is to get your body used to continued energy exertion. If you cannot train your body to run a half marathon with ease, it would be dangerous to attempt a full marathon. Nutrition Most athletes focus on protein intake. However in marathon running, carbohydrates intake is much more crucial. Glycogen acts as energy storage and thus when you are running for a long time your body needs starch and sugars. Some runners will resort to “carbohydrate loading” which means eating a lot of bread, rice, or carbohydrates before a run. Increasing your calorie intake after a marathon can also ease pain and soreness. Sport Suitable for Women Running a marathon allows you to burn approximately 2000 calories. Women tend to have strong will power,

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PHOTOGRAPHY A Yuan Chang

STYLING Pearl Kwok

MAKE UP & HAIR Monfi Lin MODEL Clement @ PACE

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SKIRT UNIF(NEU) NECKLACE AdR at H&M(Back to British) INNER JACKET Back to British JACKET American Gold(Superego) 27


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NECKLACE Anton Heunis(Passhion) TOP Shi Jen(Back to British) BELT & SHOES Back to British SHORTS Addicted(Body Formula) 30


HAT ADEEN(Back to British) NECKLACE Elena Canter(Passhion) BELT Back to British SHORTS Addicted(Body Formula) 31


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HAT ADEEN(Back to British) NECKLACE Elena Canter(Passhion) BELT Back to British SHORTS Addicted(Body Formula) 33


MAKING OF - “Final r

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ound, Fight!“

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M É N A À T

PHOTOGRAPHY 林特 Kate Chun P. Lin

STYLING Pearl Kwok

MAKE-UP & HAIR Po Tsang Ho

MODEL JUDE, Shoko @ Feliz, Patrycia @ Hola

R

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G E

I

S

T- S H I R T / Yo u r M o m L i e s ( D a r k M a t t e r Ta i p e i ) TROUSERS / Push Button(Merci) JACKET / New Balance SHOES / New Balance TOP / Reebok OUTER / Pet Shops Girl TROUSERS / Adiaids SHOES / Reebok

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TOP / Push Button(Merci) TROUSERS / Adidas NECKLACE / ASALM(Dark Matter Taipei) TOP / Puma SKIRT / Push Button(Merci) RING / Romeingpanda(Dark Matter Taipei) TOP / Adidas SKIRT / Cameo(Supere go) NECKLACE / Hope Chen(Dark Matter Taipei) JACKET / Pet Shops Girl

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T-SHIRT / Adidas HOODIE / (Gooz Select) TOP / Puma TOP / Shi Jen(Gooz Select)

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T-SHIRT / Adidas TROUSERS / Shi Jen(Gooz Select) SHOES / Adidas TOP / Shi Jen(Gooz Select) TROUSERS / Puma SHOES / Puma

TOP / Puma SKIRT / Fabitoria(Supere go)

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INNER JACKET / New Balance JACKET/ Gooz Select SKIRT / Egg Roll Boys(Dark Matter Taipei) DRESS / Supere go JACKET / New Balance TIGHTS / Happy Socks(Dark Matter Taipei) SHOES / New Balance PLAYSUIT / Puma OUTER / Supere go SHOES / Puma

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T-SHIRT / Puma TROUSERS / Again(Gooz Select) JACKET / Pet Shops Girl SHOES / Puma DRESS / Adidas CORSET / Pet Shops Girl JEANS / Top Shop(Supere go) SHOES / Adidas TOP / Minkpink(Merci) LEGGING / Shi Jen(Gooz Select) SKIRT / Pet Shops Girl JACKET / New Balance SHOES / New Balance

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MAKING OF - “MÉ

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ÉNAGE À TROISS”

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INNER COMPETIT PHOTOGRAPHY Eric Kuan-Chang Chen MAKE-UP & HAIR Po Tsang Ho MODEL Diana @ Halo

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TION

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LINGERIE / La Perla 53


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LINGERIE/ La Perla 55


LINGERIE / La Perla LONG SKIRT / Chiehms

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SILK DRESS / La Perla

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n ua Li Josh Y fi Lin H s Mon RAP G ueen P O T KE-U a@Q PHO l A u M a & eliz, P ING o@F STYL k o h EL S MOD

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TOP / Adidas

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TOP / Adidas SHORTS / Adidas 66


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MAKING OF - “ Tackle

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e, Goal, Touchdown!”

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shu Y Jo fi L TO Mon PHO G N I STYL , Pa Feliz @ o k ho EL S MOD PH GRA

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n

ua Li

Lin eens @ Qu aula

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MAKING OF -

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“ Girl Fight!”

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摄影师专访

镜头的呼吸律动

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有人說她的鏡頭有些悲傷,有人說她的鏡頭會呼吸,你可以從他的作品開始認識 她,在看過電影九降風、花吃了那女孩、消失打看之後,大概就能感覺到她獨樹 一格的運鏡與視覺語言。從平面到動態攝影,她以生活中的感受作為養分,總是 很用心的想要拍下自己腦海中的風景,她是一雙細膩的眼睛,她是余靜萍。

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開始攝影的契機?

現在數位的技術變得便利許多,但會影響到拍攝前期的完整度, 現在會很依賴後期,拍照變得不太肯定了,「反正之後進電腦再

小時候讀的是美工科,總是被要求照本宣科地練畫工,要耐著性

做」的想法也會影響到拍照當下決定的滿足感,但數位技術工作

子一筆一筆去畫,對我來說實在很無趣,那時候愛上了暗房,

時間變短了,快的結果就是壓力變小了,輕鬆很多,各有利弊。

每天都很期待看顯影這件事,比起慢慢的畫畫,瞬間從無到有的 感覺非常吸引我。後來漸漸覺得自己洗出來的照片很醜,才發現

拍攝現場的控制?

自己都沒有好好拍照,便開始觀察光線,開始好好思考拍照這件 事。

拍攝的時候,我的速度應該是慢的,不太會去急,因為知道自己 被拍也是會不自在,在拍人的時候就會這樣想,會將心比心的態

第一台相機?

度去想像要怎麼拍這個人,節奏不太會去設定,以前出外景一定 要帶音響,有了音樂工作就會有節奏,以前的音樂都好好聽,現

第一台相機是Nikon FM2配標準鏡。我好像不太受到器材的控制,

在音樂太多種了反而很難選。

開始工作後拍了兩年,用的一直都是定焦鏡,到後來相機已經 和自己融為一體,一看到景就知道要用哪一顆鏡頭,知道鏡頭

培養拍照的感覺?

可以留下或是去掉哪些畫面。後來陸續買了F3和F4,都用來拍工 作的東西,直到有一天被客戶要求要有中片幅的機器,才去買了

多看書,多去觀察自己喜歡的東西,多去分析消化。而摹仿其

6乘7的相機,那時候覺得自己很幸運,幾乎不用太多器材就工作

實是一種學習過程,去看到作品吸引人的地方,要懂得去欣賞

了兩年。

別人,消化變成自己的養分。比如說有次我要拍陶子,她雖然不 是那種公認的美女,但她有自己的韻味,我當時就想到二零年代

關於底片?

很優雅慵懶氣質的女人形象,很適合她,所以要去分析觀察被攝 者,突顯他們的優點。

因為以前是MV導演黃中平的助理,當時他可以定到很多種類的 底片,也需要測試各種不同的效果,所以我們幾乎每天都在作實

拍照前我一定會做功課,甚至會跟造型師去挑衣服,看布料、顏

驗,哪一支幾度的底片可以增光或是減光到什麼程度、高感度減

色,也會把衣服畫下來,到後來拍動態就有分鏡的概念,拍藝人

光或是低感度增光、正片負沖增感等等,各種排列組合都紀錄下

的時候,可以去瞭解之前他都怎麼被拍,會想要拍出他不一樣的

來作歸類,那時候我起碼做了十本以上的歸類紀錄,也因為這樣

樣子,就算他下次不想找我也沒關係,但我會想要拍出不一樣

可以接觸到所有的底片,並瞭解可以得到的效果,實在很好玩。

的,有一次我拍阮經天,把他小孩的一面拍出來,從此還變成好

現在的底片越來越穩定,幾乎都要正沖負才能增感,不像以前用

朋友。有時候要了解一個人並不容易,可能從工作上也無法瞭解

底片拍總是可以得到很多驚喜。

到全面,每一個人的都有自己的優點,只是要看怎麼去發現。

以前用底片工作的時候很好玩,男助理都很愛比賽誰換底片比較

現在的人工作上可能比較懶惰,選擇比較安全的方式工作,盡量

快,甚至化妝師也會來幫忙換底片。拍底片的另一個好處,就是

拍得漂亮就好,但當時我會想很多,希望照片中是有想法的,提

換片的短短時間裡,可以讓被攝者喘口氣,我也可以用這個時間

出很多想法去討論,去思考印象中的東西,與想像中的東西,我

作更多溝通。

們的工作無法跟生活切開,光線構圖什麼的,都可從生活中的觀 察知道,並且找到靈感,好好生活,多看東西是很重要的。

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喜歡的書籍?

非常適合拍某個人,這個投射會讓人明白為什麼要這裡拍,為什 麼要這樣拍等等。

現在最喜歡的雜誌是Kinfolk,很生活,很全面,以前很喜歡i-D或是 義大利版的Vogue,但現在反而沒什麼感覺,更喜歡生活的東西。

我曾經在巴黎生活,當時在那當學生的壓力很大,樂趣不太多,

家裡的藏書只能用「恐怖」二字形容,以前一個月可以花兩萬塊

所以我常常在路上找到一個路人,就悄悄跟著他回家,不僅可以

去買書,把賺來的錢都花光,我大概對印刷品有莫名的迷戀,覺

發現另一條路,還可以找到自己的路回家,一邊思考走在巴黎街

得有些書就是該買回家而不只是在網路上找找資料而已。

上的人都在想什麼,變成一個難得的體驗。

平面轉動態的拍攝,視覺上的思考模式有何不同?

滿足感很大的作品?

目前還在消化動態的工作過程,對我來說動態和平面的攝影,差

其實每部片拍完都很高興,因為工作的過程讓我獲得很多,不會

別像是長篇小說和短篇小說,動態大多都是執行面上的落差,很

有職業倦怠,單純以攝影來講都是開心的,都會有成長和檢討。

多東西我都還在學,動態攝影的情緒是可以醞釀的,那個醞釀很

大多的滿足感都是來自於工作過程中的討論,與演員的溝通,這

迷人,對動態的感覺比較多,可以紀錄ㄧ個人的很多狀態,凝聚

是電影最大的魅力,成果已經不是最重要的東西,相處的過程、

的力量也很多。

鏡頭的學習、細微的動作,去討論戲的東西,會比討論票房的事 情還要有趣很多,就像演員手上有一杯水,你光是看他表情就知

拍長的東西一定要放感情下去,並且衡量自己的能力與熱誠,拍

道水是冰或是熱,這種感覺該怎麼表現,要去感受,感受會比去

自己有感覺的東西,不要急,要等一個機會,不對自己期許太

做還更重要。

多,水到渠成,把自己準備好才對。

拍片過程中,有時候燈光師會跑來跟我說:「你看這個光很美。 」那時就會很開心,拍片的每一個人都是智慧,包括演員、導

旅行與攝影?

演、燈光、場務,可以學習的事情好多,可以偷別人的智慧,但 是拍平面就像是在被偷東西的感覺(笑)。

處在一個不熟悉的環境裡,會有很多感受,去探究為什麼這樣的 環境自己會喜歡,是不是因為光線?還是氣味?都可以趁機觀

年輕攝影師該怎麼作?

察,就連一堆垃圾,在不同的地方出現,就會有不同的感覺。 每次去到香港的天后,都有一種想要在那裡拍孫燕姿的強烈感

許多年輕的攝影師都有很大的自信,這並沒有好或不好,要認識

覺,橘色的牆面、散發出的性格,好像渾然天成就是要拍她,當

自己,要知道自己喜歡什麼,不要怕跟別人不一樣,大家的隱憂

下好想就讓他在那裡讓我拍一張照片。

就是一窩蜂的在做一件事,並不是不電修就要一定要拍拍立得, 不需要被局限,但是現在大家的東西都很安全,擅長的東西都很

法國電影紅藍白三部曲的導演基斯洛夫斯基,在拍茱麗葉畢諾許

像,攝影師要提供一個對人、對影像的看法,而不是只把工作做

的時候,為了要讓一顆方糖在4.5秒之間融化在咖啡裡,為了這個

好。炳存大哥、蘇益良和我的東西都不太會互相抵觸,老一輩的

畫面試了許多不同的方法讓方糖融化,因為他覺得人在發呆和回

攝影師都很知道自己擅長的是什麼,或是自己要什麼,所以年輕

神的時間就差不多是4.5秒,很多對影像有概念的人,會知道要如

人除了執行能力很好之外,要有自己消化過後的東西比較重要。

何把記憶暫存,我覺得攝影師要有一個使命,當我們在旅行的時 候,判斷城市的新舊,感覺就會有投射,就像我覺得在某個地方

(後編待續)

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Some say her photos exude sadness, others say her photos breathe…through her work you get to know her as a person, and through her films like “Winds of September”, “Candy Rain”, and “Honey PuPu” you get a clear sense of her style and artistic language through which she speaks. From photography to videography, she aims to capture the scenery and landscape so beautifully concocted in her mind. She is a pair of exquisite eyes; she is Fisher Yu.

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How did you get involved in photography?

What’s it like at your photo shoots? I like to take things slow and take my time, because I want to

When I was young I studied art and design; we were always forced

make sure my model is comfortable. I put myself in their shoes

to draw, stroke by stroke, which to me was extremely boring. At

because it helps me figure out how I’m going to photograph this

the time I fell in love with the darkroom and I remember being

person. I used to bring along a cd player to my outdoor shoots

so excited to see the finished photos each time. That anticipa-

because music can help to set the tempo. Music back then was so

tion attracted me, but when I saw my finished photos, they were

amazing; nowadays there are too many song choices and options,

quite horrible, and so I realized that I really wasn’t doing a good

which makes it hard to choose.

job at taking the photo in the first place. Thus I started spending Where do you get your inspiration?

more time observing light angles and tooling around with different techniques.

I like to read and to observe different things. You have to see the What was your first camera?

goodness in people and the positives in different things. I once had to photograph Matilda Tao. She’s not the most beautiful person

My first camera was a Nikon FM2 with standard lens. I’m not so

on the outside, but she has her own style and charm. She reminds

constrained by the equipment itself. When I first started working,

me of the women of the 1920s and that style really suits her. You

I used a fixed-focus lens for two years. As I got really comfort-

really have to observe your subject and to highlight their assets.

able with my camera, I then started to know which lens to use for which setting. Subsequently I bought the F3 and F4. It wasn’t until

I always do my homework before a shoot. Sometimes I’ll even

a client requested a medium-format camera did I go and purchase

go out with the stylist to pick the clothes, look at the fabric, and

one. I was really lucky that I didn’t have to buy much equipment

choose the colors to use. When I photograph celebrities I like to

for two years.

research on how they were shot in the past, and try to do something different. I want to bring out a different side of these artists

What do you think of traditional photographic film?

that people have never seen. Every one has their plus side, it’s just a matter of how you discover it and showcase it.

I used to be director Zhong-Ping Huang’s assistant. At the time I had the opportunity to play around with many different types

Nowadays people like to play it safe. Photographers just hope for

of film; we tested different film speeds, different exposures, and

a pretty shot rather than something that embodies some sort of

actually categorized them so we knew exactly what effect we’d

meaning. I find that my work cannot be separated from my every-

get. Nowadays print film is much more stable, unlike before where

day life, because through your daily routines you can find inspira-

there were many surprises.

tion; it’s important to live life well, observe, and appreciate.

The digital era has made everything much more convenient, but

Favorite books?

somehow a photographer’s prep work has diminished because many people just rely on post-production or computer editing to

My favorite lifestyles magazine is Kinfolk. I used to like i-D or Ital-

‘finish’ the photo. There lacks a fulfillment, but work hours are

ian Vogue, but it doesn’t seem to appeal to me anymore. My book

shortened, stress is diminished…there’s good and bad.

collection at home is quite enormous; I used to spend 20,000 NTD or more on books each month. There’s something about print that

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fascinates me.

I used to live in Paris as a student. There was a lot of pressure on me then so it wasn’t exactly a lot of fun. I used to walk alone on

Still versus moving; how is photography and videography dif-

the streets and follow random people home. It lets me discover

ferent to you?

different routes and different ways home. I used to walk and wonder what all the Parisians on the streets were thinking. It was a

I’m still learning and digesting the whole videography process.

unique experience.

To me, still versus moving is like a short story versus a novel. Most fulfilling works to date?

Through video you can capture many aspects of a person. The difference lies in how you execute the shoot, but through moving film you can create different moods and document that. You re-

I’m usually happy with all of my work because the entire process

ally have to put in emotion and to evaluate your own ability and

of it all allows me to really grow as a photographer. It’s fulfilling

passion. I’m taking my time and waiting for the right opportunity.

to me when on a movie set the actors and director and everyone

I don’t give myself too much pressure to move into videography,

involved is communicating and learning from each other. It’s the

but rather I think I need to continue to better myself and to be

process that’s the most valuable to me, not the reviews or box of-

ready when opportunity comes.

fice numbers. On set there’s so much to be learned and you can sort of steal other people’s wisdom. However, in still photography

Travel and photography?

I always feel like I’m being stolen from for some reason (laughs).

In unfamiliar environments I like to explore with my own emo-

Any tips for young photographers?

tions and to evaluate why or why not the place appeals to me. Is it the light? The smell? Even garbage in different places seem and

Young photographers tend to have a lot of confidence. It’s neither

look different and there’s a reason behind that. Every time I go

good nor bad. You just have to know who you really are and not

to Tin Hau in Hong Kong I have this strong urge to photograph

be afraid to be different. Don’t put yourself in a box. A photog-

Stephanie Sun because the orange walls and the whole attitude of

rapher has to offer an opinion on what he is shooting, not just

the place is like a perfect representation of her.

press the shutter. My work, Joshua Lin’s work, Yi Liang Su’s work are all quite different. Older generation photographers seem to

Director Krzysztof Kieślowski whilst filming his “Three Colors

know exactly what they are good at and what they want. So for

Trilogy” wanted a piece of sugar cube to melt in the coffee in

young photographers, aside from knowing your equipment and

exactly 4.5 seconds. For this shot they tried many different tech-

technique, you have to look deeper and know what it is you want

niques to make the sugar melt in exactly that time frame. The

and who you really are.

reason behind it is he believes that when people are in a daze or

(To be continued…)

when they zone out it takes them 4.5 seconds to return to reality. A photographer has to know how to capture a moment in time. They need to have a mission. When we’re travelling, our sentiments and the way we feel about the city is projected in our work. Our feelings about the city give us a reason to shoot in a certain way, or to shoot a certain place.

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Heartbeat of a Dancer Tsai Lin Wu

舞者的心跳頻率 吳采璘

PHOTOGRAPHY 林特 Kate Chun P. Lin

MAKE-UP & HAIR Noreen Wu COSTUME DESIGN 賴宣吾

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從小在舞蹈教室裡渡過的吳采璘,父親是京劇演員

到不同領域間所謂專業的難度。

吳興國,母親是編舞家林秀偉,彷彿一出生就有了 舞蹈的靈魂,裝在跳舞的身體裡。在進行雜誌拍攝

除了舞蹈以外,吳采璘也喜歡繪畫、音樂、文學,

的時候,化妝師驚覺吳采璘的心跳飛快,以為是她

與其他的藝術形式,「我覺得這些事情是相通的,

緊張,吳采璘卻笑著說:「舞者的心跳,本來就該

舞者也是需要藝術的敏銳度,畫畫能幫助我想像

比一般人要快。」她的每一個舞蹈動作,都讓她看

畫面、跳舞的場景、內在的宇宙,可以冥想自己

起來力量十足。

在奇妙的世界裡面;而詩能把具象的化成抽象, 留有許多想像空間。」她覺得舞者不該只是待在舞

隨著母親創辦的太古踏舞團復團,23歲的吳采璘

蹈教室裡不斷跳舞,而是需要去感受更多,「這世

也發表了她人生第一支自編的獨舞「秘碼 - 魔幻

界上有許多東西是要靠自己去開拓的,就像在山裡

之境」,這支舞將中國五行的金木水火土,對應在

冒險一樣,如果不向前走,你永遠不會知道等在

五種不同面向的人的情緒上,「許多人習慣隱藏自

前方的是什麼,就算最後是弄髒弄溼了衣服也找不

己,而我像是在窺探不同個性的人,把他們的情緒

到出口,至少你獲得了一些經驗。」吳采璘說,

與掙扎表現出來。每一段舞都有正面與負面,也有

許多編舞家都不是舞者出身,或許是因為他們擁有

許多隱喻的秘碼在其中,我想用年輕且不嚴肅的詮

比舞者更多感受人生的經驗,可以創造出更能感動

釋方式來引起共鳴,讓觀眾能夠想起自己的青春

人的作品,「用什麼方法跳舞,比跳起來是什麼

與人生經驗中,那些現在想起來覺得可愛的小煩

樣子更重要。」

惱。」這支舞花了吳采璘前後一年多的時間去編 排,還沒有太多編舞經驗的吳采璘,起初會擔心舞

舞者最重要的就是身體,有這樣深刻體會的吳采

作會不會不夠豐富、動作會不會不夠多,「後來發

璘,也是因為她曾受過腳傷,「受傷期間,在練習

現只要講重點就可以了!」她發現將重要的動作連

的時候,同一個動作別人能練習一兩百次,自己跳

貫在一起,不但讓表達更為明確,也讓觀眾覺得比

三次就開始痛,感覺除了挫折好像就沒有別的想法

較容易感受。

了。」雖然歷經了一段負面的人生,那次的受傷讓 吳采璘發現舞蹈不應該是條狹窄的路,一次即興舞

曾經到美國求學,看看不一樣的藝術環境,吳采璘

蹈營扭轉了她的想法,讓她想到什麼就馬上去做,

有些感歎台灣對藝術的熱情沒有國外來得多,「在

「成功的人必然有一段黑暗的過程,而這段黑暗會

台灣的藝術創作者,都要更有自信、更勇敢去表

帶出更多的衝勁與動力。」無論是小朋友編舞、大

達自己的想法,和自己要作的事,想辦法給自己

人編舞,還是藝術家編舞,都是需要經過一段不斷

舞台。藝術家如同高級的乞丐,許多創作產生的費

放棄的過程。

用都要到處找贊助,不然都要自己出。」舞團的經 營不易,從行政、換場、拍劇照、妝髮都要自行處

「這樣的成果才是有火花、有珍珠的,也才是

理,大小事都要學會,因此也因為當代傳奇劇場演

創作。」吳采璘說。

出的機緣,讓吳采璘這次的演出能以與造型設計賴 宣吾、Eros髮型設計等專業人士合作,也讓她感受

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ship or you just have to pay for it yourself”.

Tsai Lin Wu grew up in the dance studio. Her father is renowned actor Hsing-Kuo Wu, and her mother XiuWei Lin is a dance choreographer. Being born into an

Managing a dance group is no easy task. The downside

artistic family, Tsai Lin is a naturally soulful dancer. At

is that one has to do everything, from administrative

the photo shoot, we noticed Tsai Lin’s rapid heartbeat.

duties, to venue coordination, to hair and makeup; you

When we asked if she was nervous, she merely smiled

really have to do it all. The upside however is that you

and said, “a dancer’s heartbeat is naturally faster than

get the opportunity to meet industry professionals and

most people”. In dance, it is no wonder Tsai Lin’s each

others who love the arts.

and every movement seems so complementary to her heartbeat, so full of power, strive, and stamina.

Aside from dance, Tsai Lin also loves to draw; she loves music and literature and various different art

At 23, Tsai Lin is now a part of her mother’s Tai Gu

forms. To Tsai Lin, “different art mediums can speak

Tales Dance Theatre. She recently choreographed her

to each other in a common language. A dancer needs to

own dance number named “Sekret-The Enchantress”,

be more susceptible to different art forms” and a dancer

which took over one year to choreograph. This piece

shouldn’t spend all their time in the studio. “ There are

embodies the traditional Chinese concept of the Five

many things in this world that you have to discover on

Elements (Metal, Wood, Water, Fire, Earth) expressed

your own. It’s like an adventure; if you don’t move for-

through the emotions of five different characters.

ward, you’ll never know what lies ahead”.

Tsai Lin says that, “many people like to hide their emo-

Many choreographers in the industry are not profes-

tions from others, so for me I’m sort of digging into

sional dancers, yet their life experiences add to their

their true personas and bringing forth their hidden

ability to create pieces that are mesmerizing and touch-

emotions and inner struggles. In dance there is always

ing to the heart. As a dancer, your most important asset

positive and negative connotations, and many hidden

is your body. Having suffered injuries to her foot in the

messages in between. I wish to use a youthful and less

past, Tsai Lin knows this better than anyone. Tsai Lin

serious method to help conjure up one’s past memories

says, “during my injury it was really frustrating because

and life experiences and make people realize that their

it really effected my training and practice, however it

little worries from before were really unimportant”.

made me realize that the road to success is paved with many dark obstacles, and if you can surpass it, then you will come out with even more drive and motivation”.

Having studied in the U.S, Tsai Lin was able to experience different artistic environments and culture. To Tsai Lin, the art movement in Taiwan contrastingly lacks passion and drive, when compared to the States.

“Sekret- The Enchantress”

Tsai Lin says, “Taiwanese artists need to have more

5/4 -7/13

confidence and courage to express themselves, and to

http://www.taigu-tales.com/

do what they want to do. They need to find a stage for themselves and to look for the funds that can help them continue their work. To me, Taiwanese artists are like high-class beggars; you either find corporate sponsor-

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來 / 稿 / 登 / 錄

Athletics and

一场棒球经典赛可以让几千万个意志同时期盼一件事,制造一种巨大的气场,除了运 动竞赛之外,好像没有其他梗,可以凝聚这些人的团结心情了。 想像在古希腊时代,人们在祭坛前向神灵奉献最精湛的技艺,显示躯体和精神的健 美。创造奥运会的古希腊人有着能穿越时光的青春胴体,他们迷恋肌理线条、迷恋强 健的意志,雕塑身体似乎是他们生命中最重要的事。 现代奥运之父皮耶德.古柏坦(Pierre de Coubertin)曾说:「奥运会动重要的不是胜利 而是参与,生活的本质不是索取而是奋斗。」无论是不是锻炼身体的运动比赛,技艺 的竞争能够激起斗志,在肾上腺素直冲脑门的瞬间,发挥人类极限的爆发力。 除了瑜珈,马拉松在女性选择的体育活动当中,开始成为一种风潮与文化,女性也渐 渐藉由运动中获得的释放与成就感来肯定自己。 Abook这次要把这身体与精神的极限美影像化,请来加入我们。

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Abook Magazine Issue 17

Call for Submissions

d Competition

A baseball game can attract millions of fans, all anticipating and cheering for the same thing. Sports seem to have this unique ability to unify a large group of people, all joined together in mind, body, and spirit. The ancient Greeks focused on religious worship and laid emphasis on physical skill and mental fitness. As creators of the Olympic Games, they seemed to have been fascinated with the human anatomy and the strengths of the body. Like founder of the International Olympic Committee Pierre de Coubertin once said, “the most important thing in the Olympic Games is not winning but taking part; the essential thing in life is not conquering but fighting well.� No matter what type of sport or competition, the human limit can be stretched as adrenaline and human will power take over. Besides yoga, more and more women are starting to run and join marathons. Women are slowly discovering the way in which sports can help them with their self- esteem and find their place in life. Please join us as we personify the beauty of mind and spirit and celebrate the power of athletics and competition!

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【愛情競技】

愛情先來後到只是禮貌,道德淪陷則是基本配套, 從古至今從蠻橫到文明,愛情禁忌,男女老少, 越競技越帶勁。

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【競技】

PHOTOGRAPHY Chien Lin

MAKE-UP & HAIR & MODEL Jill Jiang 114


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