Perfect Diver Magazine 21 issue

No. 21

3(21)/2022

MAY/JUNE

Price 12,50 € Tax included

diving freediving passion knowledge

GALÁPAGOS IN THE LAND OF DRAGONS DRIVEN BY PASSION

WWOJCIECH ZGOŁA

Editor-in-Chief

hat can we say, summer, warm water, sun and travel is upon us in Europe. Have you already planned your holidays? Where are you going to dive? If you haven't yet, we rush with ideas in the latest issue of our magazine.

We have a big dose of Galápagos excitement for you. Ania Sołoducha ends her story with dives around the islands of Darwin and Wolf. Get ready for amazing encounters with large representatives of marine animals. We spin the globe and stop for another, equally exciting story. Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz invites us to Indonesia, specifically to Komodo, to meet the dragons and more...

A lot of women are authors in Perfect Diver, one of them is Klaudyna Brzostowska who discovers Lavezzi for us. Did you know about this place? Our editorial colleague Karola Takes Photos answers Laura Kazimierska's questions. Where she got into the underwater world in the first place and how she perceives and combines her passions as a graphic designer, photographer, and diver.

We also have an interesting talk about a manta ray project in the Atlantic, a compilation of ice cream, free drinks and whales, and the biggest underwater treasure ever... so far :)

Of course, we’re not done yet. If you like the Baltic Sea, and you find it interesting when specimens like fin whales appear in it – read what Agata Turowicz-Cybula wrote for us about it. And if you’re fond of wrecks – Kurt Storms covers one of them. We also present another side of Yucatan by Zbyszek Rogozinski and a few words about Wojtek A Filip's manometers. Those of you who enjoy a sense of humour and fantastic bird photography – you certainly want to read about great reed warblers.

Let’s get inside! See if I haven't forgotten anything in the introduction and remember, dive safe. If you think that projects like Perfect Diver are worth supporting, you can also help us financially

Wojciech Zgoła

Mateusz Popek

Karolina Sztaba

Hubert Reiss

Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak

Reddo Translations Sp. z o.o. Piotr Witek

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

(Google)

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that is his motto. In 1985 he obtained a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the following years he improved his skills by obtaining the Dive Master degree. He completed nearly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since 2007, he has been taking photographs underwater, and since 2008 he has also been filming. As an independent journalist, he published dozens of articles, mainly in journals dedicated to diving, but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and propagator of diving. Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive experience, in August 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has been diving since 2009. Since 2008, he's walking in caves. Underwater archeologist by education. He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at sea and inland. Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instructor CMAS M1. In June 2020, he obtained a doctoral degree in underwater archeology.

An IT specialist by profession, but a flesh and blood salesman who is not afraid of any job. Diving has always been my big dream. At the beginning it was supposed to be a challenge, a short episode but it turned out to be a passion for the end of the world and one day longer. Under water I react and rest. As a Divemaster, sidemount Razor diver, and recently also a photographer, I realize my dreams by admiring and immortalizing the beauty of the underwater world. "Passion breeds professionalism, professionalism gives quality, and quality is a luxury in life. Nowadays, especially..."

Karolina Sztaba, and professionally Karola Takes Photos, is a photographer by education and passion. She is currently working at the Trawangan Dive Center on a tiny island in Indonesia – Gili Trawangan, where she moved to live four years ago. She photographs above and below the water. In addition, she creates photographic projects against littering the oceans and polluting our planet with plastic ("Trapped", "Trashion"). She cooperates with NGO organizations dealing with environmental protection and actively participates in pro-ecological actions (coral protection, coral planting, cleaning the world, protection of endangered species). She is also the official photographer of Ocean Mimic – a brand that creates swimwear and surfwear from rubbish collected on the beaches of Bali. She cooperated with many brands of diving equipment for which she created advertising campaigns. In 2019, she became the ambassador of the Polish company Tecline. She has been a technical diver for two years.

MATEUSZ POPEK

HUBERT REISS

KAROLA TAKES PHOTOS

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He has been diving for over 30 years, including over 20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instructor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR, TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving projects and conferences as a leader, explorer, originator or lecturer. These included the Britannic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croatia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of training at TecLine Academy.

Polish photographer, winner of awards and distinctions in world underwater photography competitions, has already dived all over the world: with sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs behind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist photographic workshops. He has been diving for 27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as it was formally possible. He was the first in the world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for underwater macro photography. Recently, in the remote Chincorro archipelago on the border between Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking a successful attempt to photograph the eye of a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a permanent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny that led her to Activtour… and she's been here on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the dreams of many, organizing diving trips around the world, and she has already been diving for more than half of her life. Each year she explores a different ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin to her diving world map. In winter she changes fins into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps. A recipe for life? ”The only a dead trunk flows with the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!” anna@activtour.pl activtour.pl; travel.activtour.pl; 2bieguny.com

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he remembers. After several years of experience as a diver, he wanted to keep memories of underwater dives. He bought his first compact camera with an underwater housing. Over time, however, the desire to have the best photo began to dominate, which was not quite possible with the compact he used. That's why he switched to the Olympus PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which allows the use of several different lenses. He uses a combination of underwater flashes and lights. He focuses on wildlife photography, not arrangement. He photographs in fresh domestic waters as well as in the seas and oceans of the world.

He has already won numerous awards at Czech and foreign photography competitions. More photos can be found on his website, where you can also buy them not only as photos, but also as photos printed on canvas or on another medium. www.mokrefotky.cz

www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

Laura Kazimierska is currently working as PADI Course Director at TrawanganDive Center on the Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. Founder of the Divemastergilis portal.

www.divemastergilis.com @divemastergilis

For over 7 years she has lived and discovered the underwater world of Indonesia. She is not only an avid technical diver, but also the face of the Planet Heroes platform and the ambassador of the Ocean Mimic brand. She actively contributes to the promotion of the protection of corals and the natural environment of fish and marine animals by taking part in scientific projects, campaigns against ocean littering and cooperating with NGOs in Indonesia. @laura_kazi

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love observing the underwater life up close and I try to show other divers how fascinating the underwater, Baltic creatures are.

WOJCIECH A. FILIP

ANNA SOŁODUCHA

AGATA TUROWICZ-CYBULA

MICHAL ČERNÝ

JAKUB DEGEE

LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

WOJCIECH JAROSZ

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Academy of Physical Education (coaching specialization – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implementing research, pushing laboriously in the right direction of the stroller called science. In his free time he spends his time actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature. A graduate of journalism and a lover of good literature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and their protection are especially close to her heart. She writes about the subject in numerous articles and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl. She began her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

AGNIESZKA KALSKA

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY,

• Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor,

• world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

• record holder and Polish champion, member of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

• winner of the World Championships in freediving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships and a member of the national team in swimming in the years 1998–2003,

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

IRENA KOSOWSKA

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska, diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold, tight places and invariably from the beginning of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures ”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field research of divers for scientific purposes.

BARTOSZ PSZCZÓŁKOWSKI

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have been associated with water practically from birth and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfather instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue water, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started the adventure with underwater photography. I acquired my diving experience in the Canary Islands, Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish lakes. I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor, I train diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my passion on to others.

I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the Red Sea and pelagic ocean predators. Devoted to the idea of protecting dolphins, sharks and whales. He dives mainly where you can meet these animals and monitor the level of their well-being. Member of Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer at Tethys Research Institute and Cetacean Research & Rescue Unit, associate of Marine Connection. For 10 years he has been involved in research on wild dolphin populations and audits dolphinariums. Together with the team ”NO! For the Dolphinarium” he prevents dolphins from captivity and promotes knowledge about dolphin therapy unsaid or concealed by centers which make money on this form of animal therapy.

PADI diving instructor and videographer. She spends most of his time in the water documenting a fascinating underwater world. She graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in the field of Fashion Design in Łódź and Film studies at the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, trained as a tailor, and with a love of nature and a large dose of adrenaline. She loves everything related to water. Her diving adventure began with a backpacking trip in 2016. During her stay in Thailand she dived for the first time and from then on she got hooked on at this sport. Spending the last years and most of her days under water, teaching and showing the beauty of the underwater world in Asia, she believes that diving means unity – unity with own mind, nature and unusual creatures. @waterographyk

ZBIGNIEW ROGOZIŃSKI

A passionate and enthusiast of diving, he photographs amateurly and likes to know what he sees under the water, what are the names of the animals he calls and what stories hide the wrecks. He has been diving since 2009, getting the PADI Instructor Assistant degree, and in 2010 he and his friends opened a diving school and Wolsztyn Diving Club Bad Fish.

SZYMON MOSAKOWSKI

Student of archeology at the Nicolaus Copernicus University in Toruń. A beginner diver starting his adventure with underwater archeology. A lover of photography, nature and basketball, and recently also diving.

Belgium Military, underwater cave explorer and active technical/ cave/ rebreather diving instructor for IANTD. He started his diving career in Egypt on vacation, and his passion continues. Kurt is also the founder and CEO of Descent Technical Diving.

He dives on several CCRs such as AP, SF2, Divesoft Liberty SM. Kurt is involved in the creation of the document about the new salt mine in Belgium (Laplet). This project was featured in the news on Nationale TV.

Privately, Kurt's true passion is deep cave diving. His wife (Caroline) shares her husband's passions and also dives in caves. In his free time, he visits Belgian slate mines, and when he is not exploring, he takes his camera to document the dives.

JAKUB BANASIAK

KLAUDYNA BRZOSTOWSKA

KURT STORMS

Galapagos

THE REPUBLIC OF ANIMALS

part 2

Text Anna Sołoducha

Land photos Jarosław Gołembiewski

Underwater photos Łukasz Metrycki

Travelling over 100 nautical miles from Isabela Island, on the 5 December 2021 we arrived at one of the most famous dive sites in the Pacific Ocean. It was already beginning to dawn when two volcanic pillars appeared to my eyes, a remnant of the erosion that had taken place six months earlier – on 17 May 2021. The famous Darwin's Arch is an iconic site, famous around the world. The eroded remains of a forgotten eruption mark the position of an oval reef that plunges to a considerable depth. "The Pillars of Evolution", or what remains after the collapse of the rock arch, are located about 1 km from the island, which is the summit of an undersea volcano over 1,000 metres high that was active between 1.6 million and 400 thousand years ago. But it was not the pillars or the island itself that were the focus of our safari, but what we were about to see underwater...

Source Aggressor

The gradually descending slope is covered with huge boulders and the currents hit the wide, rocky edge of the reef before spreading out in all directions. No matter where we entered the water, we hit the currents, so we still had to descend the boulders and admire countless moray eels before reaching a sandy channel...

During the very first dive off Darwin Island, while drifting, a shadow suddenly emerged from the depths. The shadow of something unusually large. A 15-metre whale shark swam straight towards us. Resembling a bus, it glided through the undersea depths. It was incredible! The whale shark is the largest fish in the world and the largest representative of sharks. One of only three non-predatory shark species in the world that feeds on plankton, it seemed slow and sluggish. Nothing could be further from the truth! It took us a while to see how fast this huge fish swims, trying to get a close-up view of its 10-centimeter-thick skin, covered with white, yellow, and green spots arranged in regular rows. Although the whale shark season is defined as May to late November, we saw it 8 times! The pursuit resulted in reducing a few dozen bars in our bottles...but what was happening underwater was beyond our wildest expectations! Interestingly, by 1980 alone, around

350 encounters with whale sharks were recorded in the Darwin Island area, and as a result of the spread of diving – this number has increased rapidly, what we experienced personally 

But Darwin Island is not just about whale shark encounters. The 3-metre-long Galápagos sharks, weighing about 47 kg, are found in groups, hunting cephalopods, sea lions, marine iguanas, smaller sharks, and bonefish! It is not easy to meet this species of shark, but the Galápagos is one of the places where we managed to see it! :)

The northernmost island of the Galápagos Archipelago is named after one of the most important scientific figures, the founder of the theory of evolution – Charles Darwin, who made the Galápagos Islands world famous. The young explorer's journey aboard the Beagle in 1831–36 which inspired the famous theory, is one of the most widely known episodes in the history of science. It was in the Galápagos Islands in the Pacific that Darwin saw the great tortoises and the now famous "Darwin's finches". The various species of finches differed in the shape of their beaks, indicating that they had different diets. Tortoises from many of the islands had different shaped carapaces. It was these clues spotted on the Galápagos Islands that led Darwin to conclude that the diversity of life on Earth arose

as an organic process of the inheritance of change – or, as it was later called, evolution – and that the mechanism underlying this process was natural selection. The result of this journey (but not only) was the publication of a book on the origin of species and convincing everyone (except the hierarchy of the Anglican Church) that it was true ;)

There is no point in travelling all the way to the Galápagos and not seeing the two northernmost islands – Wolf and the previously mentioned Darwin. They are considered to be the perfect place for diving in the archipelago – and there is no exaggeration in that ;) Wolf can only be reached by liveaboard after an overnight sail north from the central islands, while Darwin is at least another four hours away. These volcanic and rocky landmasses are home only to red-footed boobies, or frigatebirds gliding above. There is no way for me to go ashore on any of the islands.

Sitting at the foot of the steep cliffs of Wolf Island, behind an emerging peak, when we looked down from the zodiac at the water, we could see that the currents were absolutely terrifying. The site itself is magnificent – a wall of very large boulders, criss-crossed by a dozen caves. Due to the fact that both islands are located far to the north and are shel-

tered by others from the south, the Humboldt current has less impact there, and the water is slightly warmer (about 24°C). Unfortunately, even when the surface temperature is 28°C, the thermoclines at depth can still be icy, but this ceases to matter when the underwater spectacle begins... (…) And then happens what you are waiting for, what I was waiting for 10 years. What I read, wrote, told while organizing diving trips. Pictures that I knew by heart from various websites. What was my dream, so distant, and for many years – unattainable. What 20 years ago, completing my first OWD course – I did not even dream about.

TONS OF SHARKS. HAMMERHEAD SHARKS.

Not a few, or a dozen, to be admired for a few minutes, usually at great depth. This was the "water march" of the rulers of this land, the republic of animals. Several dozens of them were swimming over our heads for 20–30 minutes, in fact, until we had to continue diving and leave this spectacle. It was pure magic, a phenomenon. 2-3-meter-long hammerheads were swimming endlessly in front of us and I...? I felt accomplished. (…)

They emerged from the depths one by one, a whole herd. Huge hammerhead sharks, several metres long, boast stereoscopic vision, which allows them to judge distances perfectly and to see depths.

Nobody really knows how many there were. They emerged from the depths one by one, a whole herd. Huge hammerhead sharks, several metres long, boast stereoscopic vision, which allows them to judge distances perfectly and to see depths. The disadvantage of this ability, however, is that the angle of vision is severely restricted. Most animals with both eyes at the front of the head can only see about 100° horizontally. If the eyes are on the sides of the head, the range of the visual angle can approach up to 270°. The hammerhead shark is unique in this respect! Its distinctive head structure enables it to see stereoscopically, and its field of vision covers 360°. Such a large angle of vision makes it possible to avoid being attacked by the predator, regardless of its direction, also the fact that we, the divers, were spotted long before we managed to spot the herd ourselves.

On the other side of Wolf Island, an old rockslide has formed a gentle underwater slope, which descends to about 200 m. Traversing the mighty boulders in the chimney often requires a careful, slow descent to find yourself at the bottom (not at 200 m of course – editor's note) by an open channel. Stopping at about 20 metres, sitting down between the rock chunks, we began to observe the approaching flocks of hammerhead

sharks. There were at least thirty of them in the depths, but often it was only the tip of the iceberg. It is worth going deeper, because then we have the best view of dozens of sharks swimming above our heads, but be careful – the water can be colder there! Heading up the slope, we met a local shoal of spotted eagle rays swimming past to look at the divers and expose themselves to the frolicking bubbles ;) Gradually reducing in depth, we encountered sea lions again, like by the central islands of the archipelago, as well as giant green turtles hiding in crevices! Interestingly (but sadly at the same time) –the turtle's name does not come from the colour of its shell, but from the colour of its fat, which was extracted after it was killed, during the "whaling era". Somewhere in the blue abyss, we also managed to see silky sharks! So much adrenaline, so many emotions and so many animals on one dive – that I have never experienced before in my life!!!

A green, white, and blue flag flies at the flagpole of Aggressor III. The colours symbolise fertile soil, dry lowlands, and the ocean, respectively. This is the landscape of the volcanic Galápagos Islands. Six large, 13 medium and 215 small islands make up the archipelago, about which much has been written.

The Galápagos Islands are said to have been discovered by people living off the coast of Ecuador and Peru in pre-Columbian times, but they were never colonised. Instead, the discovery of the archipelago by Europeans was entirely accidental. In 1535, the bishop of Panama, at the behest of King Charles V of Spain, travelled to Peru to settle a dispute that had arisen between Francisco Pizzaro and his subordinates after the conquest of the Incan State. The ship was immobilised by the windless weather and then carried off towards land. The crew went ashore to look for drinking water, but they found nothing but turtles and sea lions. Thus, on 10 March 1535, the accidental discovery of the islands was made by a white man. 11 years later, another ship arrived at the coast of the Galápagos, this time a fugitive from Peru, Captain Diego Rivadeneira, who, unable to reach land, called the archipelago the "Enchanted Islands" because they seemed to be constantly moving away. 35 years after this event, the first maps were drawn up – by the cartographer Gerard Mercator (creator of the cylinder grid) and Abraham Ortelius – cartographer, geographer, and map publisher. It was Ortelius who gave the islands the name they still bear today. "Galápagos" comes from the Spanish language and means "saddle". The cartographer named the turtles so, because of the shape of their shells, and so the name of the archipelago – the islands where the turtles live – was derived from them. For the next 2 centuries, the islands were uninhabited. At the end of the 16th century, the islands became a hideout and also a base for pirates from Holland and En-

gland. However, they did not settle here permanently due to the lack of fresh water.

The islands gradually gained in popularity – in the 17th and 18th centuries, the first navigational charts, nature studies and the first scientific expeditions began. Unfortunately, the 19th century brought a real environmental disaster – whalers. They began to kill turtles on a massive scale for their meat, collecting them on ships. This was "living canned food" – because even after several months on board without water or food, turtles were the perfect ingredient for soup... Between 1811 and 1844, more than 700 whaling ships sailed to the Galápagos Islands for turtle meat. According to the ship's logs, 15,000 tortoises were taken from the archipelago, but

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

in the end, 100,000 were probably taken. In 1890, the Galápagos fur seals were declared extinct... Fortunately, the second half of the 20th century, and then the 21st century, marked the beginning of the protection of the natural environment, with the creation of National Parks, marine reserves, and the inclusion of the islands on the UNESCO List! Thanks to these measures, the Galápagos Islands boast numerous endemic species – over 80% of all land birds, 97% of land reptiles and mammals, over 20% of marine species, and 30% of all plants found on the islands are endemic! However, about 4 million years ago, the volcanic islands were completely devoid of life. So where did land animals come from on an island that was never connected to the mainland? Where did endemic and native plant species come from? It turns out that only a few species could survive such a long journey. This shows the superiority of sea birds, sea mammals, and... reptiles, over land mammals. It is likely that reptiles arrived on the islands on natural plant rafts, carried by sea currents. It follows from this theory that reptiles dominate – taking the usual position of mammals in the ecosystem. Reptiles, unlike mammals, can survive for extended periods without food and water, withstanding long exposure to the sun. Interestingly, there are no amphibians on the islands of the archipelago due to the lack of fresh water! As for plants – the seeds were carried on the wings of insects or in the stomachs of birds! All this land never ceases to amaze. It is also well known that the animals living in the Galápagos are not afraid of humans. They are completely devoid of any defensive reflex or fear, because on any of the islands – there have never been predators, so native and endemic species do not know the feeling of fear. This makes the Galápagos a true "Republic of Animals".

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

Talking about the archipelago, it is impossible not to mention the islands' emblematic species – the Galápagos giant tortoise. The shell of the Galápagos tortoise can reach a length of 150 cm and a weight of 200 kg. The record "specimen" measured 187 cm and weighed 400 kg! Their size is due to the lack of competition and potential enemies. Galápagos tortoises live about 100 years in the wild, 170 in the reserve, and some live up to 300 years! Due to the special status of this reptile, there are "Tortoise Breeding and Rearing Centres" and reserves on the islands, such as Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. In these centres, tortoises are bred and propagated, and environmental protection is promoted and educated. When a female tortoise lays her eggs, centre staff identify the nest and dig it up to ensure that as many younglings as possible hatch under controlled and safe conditions. As the tortoises grow, they gradually become accustomed to living on their own, but before they are released into the wild, they undergo mandatory quarantine so as not to infect the wild population. Currently, there are 11 species of tortoises, out of the 15 that used to be found in the archipelago. They have different types of carapaces – from domed to saddle-like. The different species have adapted to eating grass or higher-growing shrubs thanks to their more open carapace and long neck. Their legs resemble those of an elephant. One of the most famous tortoises is Diego – imported from San Diego, California, to save the tortoise population in the 1960s. By 2016 alone, Diego had given life to over 800 offspring, becoming the hero of a subspecies doomed to extinction!

The shell of the Galápagos tortoise can reach a length of 150 cm and a weight of 200 kg. The record "specimen" measured 187 cm and weighed 400 kg!

The streets, paths and coastlines of the Galápagos Islands are full of animals. The town of Puerto Ayora, located in the south of Santa Cruz Island, resembles a sleepy seaside oasis. However, when we reach the fish market, the madness begins. Pelicans, seagulls, sea lions and iguanas are the main "clients" of the vendors here! Shoving each other, not paying attention to tourists or buyers – they were lining up "under the counter" waiting for them to find some food ;) You will not find such a view anywhere else in the world!

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

The Galápagos penguin, inhabiting mainly the islands of Fernandina and Isabela, is the second smallest penguin species in the world, and the only one inhabiting the northern hemisphere, due to the equator crossing the Isabela Island! We did not manage to meet the species underwater while diving or snorkelling, but during a zodiac trip to the above-mentioned islands, we watched whole flocks of penguins clumsily treading on the rocky coast. Our constant companions during the stay in the Galápagos were albatrosses, lava gulls and frigatebirds! The lava gull, or "dusky gull" is one of the rarest gulls in the world. Its colouring is reminiscent of solidified lava, which helps it hide from predators or from "competition" when foraging. Frigatebirds are one of the largest seabirds. They get their name from their inflating purple throat sack, which, when filled with air, resembles a frigate's sail in the wind. When describing birds found in the Galápagos, it is impossible not to mention the blue-footed booby! Known throughout the world, "boobies" or "blue-footed gannets" measure less than 100 cm in height and weigh up to 2 kg. They feed on fish, for which they dive as deep as 20 metres! Their distinctive feature is the incredible blue colouration of their legs. The blue colour of the silly paws is provided by a special pigment – a carotenoid. It is constantly produced in the body thanks to a diet rich in fresh marine fish. Additionally, this pigment is an antioxidant and stimulates the immune system. As a result, the colour of the feet of a young and healthy bird will be much brighter. The blue feet of males play a significant role during the mating season. Females prefer males with blue feet and neglect males whose feet are blue grey. Well, the animal world is governed by its own laws ;)

In modern times, the archipelago is known as the "Galápagos". The larger islands have both Spanish and English names. The English names were given

Photo Łukasz

Metrycki

after British noble families (Albemarle), pirates (Bindloe or Ewres) or ships (Beagle, Indefatigable) and the Spanish after places like Santa Cruz or San Salvador. Each of the major islands is special and unique at the same time, and it is impossible not to recommend visiting any of them. You will see countless species of endemic plants, volcano craters, kapok trees, manchineel trees, guavas, Palo Santo, fumaroles (lava tunnels), white sand beaches like the famous Tortuga on the island of Santa Cruz, or green stretches of grass. In spite of this diverse landscape, there is one common feature – ANIMALS. They give the rhythm of life here; they are the lords and masters of this land. We meet them in the bays, in the cities, on the paths, underwa-

ter, in the air or on the coast of each island. They are the ornaments and symbols of this place, which – thanks to them – was, is and always will be the most unique place on Earth. And I was there.

No area on Earth of comparable size has inspired more fundamental changes in Man’s perspective of himself and his environment than the Galápagos Islands.

Robert Bowman, Contributions to Science from the Galapagos

WYBIERZ KIERUNEK

YUCATAN DIFFERENTLY

Text and photos Zbigniew Rogoziński

Mexico, and especially the Yucatan peninsula, reminds me (and not only me) of cave dives and cenotes. It is not surprising, because this region is a real paradise for this type of diving. There is no point in mentioning the names of the most popular dive sites visited by tens of thousands of divers coming here every year, because almost everyone who practises this sport knows them. However, just immersing yourself in these natural wells and penetrating miles of underground corridors is not all this region has to offer underwater explorers. If someone would like to take a break between visiting other caves, and still would like to dive, there are places that can delight and thrill those who decide to visit them.

The Yucatan Peninsula is washed on two sides by the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. The second largest barrier reef system in the world is located in the waters of this latter basin. The Great Mesoamerican Coral Reef stretches over 5,000 miles along the coasts of Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, and Honduras. One of the elements of this huge structure are the reefs located on the island of Cozumel, which is located

The Yucatan Peninsula is washed on two sides by the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. The second largest barrier reef system in the world is located in the waters of this latter basin.

20 kilometres from the city of Playa del Carmen, and it was these reefs that were our first diving destination.

To dive on one of the more than 40 places available along Cozumel (most of the spots are located in the Cozumel Reefs National Marine Park), we went by boat from the vicinity of our hotel. Boats sailing for dives dock a dozen or so meters from the shore, so in order to get to them, we first had to complete several courses, moving equipment from the beach to the boat, wading in the water to the waist. It took our boat about an hour to reach the places on the reefs of Cozumel, which we thoroughly used to clarify the equipment, although at the speed at which we slid on the waves, it was not an easy task. Our two reef dives took place along the underwater walls, which descended vertically to the bottom lying at a depth of about 100 m. Swimming, or rather, getting carried away by a fairly strong current, we passed over the beautiful structures of corals, huge coloured sponges, among which hundreds of other creatures were moving. Turtles, morays, stingrays, reef sharks and crawfish are just some of the inhabitants of this place, which we managed to spot during two, one-hour long dives. This healthy and diverse ecosystem provides a safe environment for more than 600 species of marine creatures, including a few that are nowhere else on earth.

In addition to snooping around the barrier reef, you can also try something else here. The waters around Cozumel, for a reason, are not particularly known as a wreck dive site. Most of the ships that sank in the rough coastal waters lie

at depths inaccessible to any diver, and shallow wrecks are destroyed by seasonal storms and tropical hurricanes, which quite often pass through the area. Fortunately, there are several sunken ships breaking out of this pattern. One such wreck is the gunship C-53 Felipe Xicotencatl. The ship US Scuffles, which was originally the name and class of the ship, was built at the Wilson Marine Shipworks in Tampa in 1943. Immediately after the launch, the unit was sent to the Pacific, where it served until the end of World War II, clearing minefields and providing protection for transports from attacks by Japanese aircraft and submarines. At the end of the war, in 1946, she was removed from service and sold to the Mexican Navy. After arriving in Mexico, the ship was converted into an Admiral-type gunship and renamed C-53 Felipe Xicotancatl. For the next 37 years, from 1962 to 1999, the ship patrolled the Gulf of Mexico and the Mexican Caribbean Sea, serving rescue missions and searching for arms and drug traffickers. After 55 years at sea, C-53 was permanently withdrawn from service, and then, together with two other ships, was sunk as elements of an artificial reef. Thus, the wrecks became diving attractions, which allowed to reduce traffic on nearby reefs.

After descending to the surface, you can almost immediately see a wreck standing on an even keel, on the bottom, located at a depth of over 20 meters, over 56 meters. The ship was sunk in a place that allows easy access for divers visiting it, at a safe distance from the reef, in an area shielded from strong currents. Looking at this rather large wreck, it is hard to imagine the strength of the hurricane of 2005, which almost tore and moved the unit on the sandy bottom by more than 100 meters!!! Before the sinking, the ship was specially prepared for diving purposes. In addition to thorough cleaning of the unit, all wires and pipes were removed, and

holes in the sides were cut to facilitate its penetration. There are not many deposits inside and outside the wreckage. This, as well as easy access to the interior and a small depth, encourages you to explore every corner of the ship during which you can see its inhabitants. In the 16 years since the sinking, this artificial structure has become home to various marine organisms. Sponges, anemone and corals have already taken over the decks and sides, forming dense colonies. During our diving inside the gunship, we saw really large crabs, crawfish, morays and glassfish shoals hanging in the corridors. In one of the cabins, there were hundreds of small, colourless shrimps, who did not know why they chose this place. Swimming around the wreckage, we encountered barracudas floating in the blue and large dusky groupers, and all of them were among a lot of smaller fish, looking for a safe hiding place in the recesses of this artificial reef.

The local waters hide another attraction for divers. Between November and March, in the waters near Playa del Carmen, there are female bull sharks that come here to give birth. This opportunity was, of course, used by diving bases, which introduced diving with bull sharks to their offer. Our diving with these predators took place from a boat, less than 400 meters from the beach. Despite such a short distance, at which we met those considered to be the most aggressive sharks, from tourists resting on the beaches, so far no attacks on people have been recorded here. The plan for our dive was simple. We went down to the sandy bottom, at a depth of

about 25 meters, and waited for the sharks swimming in this place. We were holding the rope fixed to the bottom, which helped us maintain our position despite the light current. The base that organised our dives doesn't lure sharks into bait boxes. This does not help in taking good photos, because these dangerous predators are rather shy and do not get too close to divers for no reason, but personally I am not in favour of teaching sharks to associate people with food ;). After several minutes of waiting at the bottom, we only managed to see the outlines of their silhouettes circulating at the border of our sight. So we decided to swim away from the rope and look for them. Such tactics proved effective. Swimming over the bottom, out of a sandy hill, we managed to surprise sharks several times, which, however, completely ignored us and quickly disappeared in the blue. Nevertheless, it is worth to spend a few dollars to see these beautiful animals in their

Swimming along a tangle of mangroves or tunnels, formed under a layer of peat pierced by mangrove roots, takes your breath away.

natural environment and write such a dive into your diving CV :)

During our stay in Mexico, in the vicinity of the city of Tulum, we visited another place where you can "take a break" from cave dives, but not exactly. Casa Cenote, because we are talking about it, is a place which, despite its name, resembles a river which, by the way, does not occur in the Yucatan, rather than a typical cenote. The water from the underwater caves flows to the surface here, and then, meandering along the shores covered with mangroves, disappears again underground after a few hundred meters, and then through the sunken corridors

connects to the open sea. This close and direct connection to the open ocean means that you can find here a very diverse fauna, both fresh and saltwater. Descending under the surface of the water, the uniqueness of this place is immediately noticeable. Swimming along a tangle of mangroves or tunnels, formed under a layer of peat pierced by mangrove roots, takes your breath away. On top of this you have an amazing game of lights and thousands of fish, from little dwarf cichlid and Yucatan mollies to really big tarpons. You feel like you're diving under the jungle. At the bottom, we met beautifully coloured blue crabs every now and then, which escaped to the side as we approached them. Another name for this place is Cenote Manati, because these large mammals used to visit this place. It is too bad that it hardly happens anymore. At the end of its "river section", the bottom of Casa Cenote becomes more rocky, with lots of cracks and caves. In one of these rock chambers, our guide showed us the skeleton of a sea turtle, which proves that this place is also visited by marine inhabitants. The closer you get to the sea, the more salt water flows with tides into this natural reservoir, and mixing with the fresh water that feeds the reservoir, it creates a halocline that blurs everything around you and creates wonderful light effects. Despite the lack of manatees, this cenote has its "pet" that we met during our dive. Panchito, this is the two-metre Morelet's crocodile,

who lives in this cenote. Unfortunately, just like bull sharks, it is rather shy and after a quick swim over our heads, it hid in the tangle of mangrove roots. At the end of the dive, however, we managed to track it down and take a short photo session, although our model did not intend to help us much.

If someone still feels a lack of satisfaction as for the Yucatan attractions and communing with its nature, I suggest you take a trip to the Rio Lagartos reserve. The reserve is located on the northern coast of the Yucatan on the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Within 60,000 hectares of the park, there are forests, dunes, mangrove forests, estuaries and 60 kilometers of beaches. The most popular form of visiting this place is a boat trip with a local guide. We sailed out of the fishing village with the same name as the reserve. During the two-hour tour, you can see hundreds of birds that live here 388 species: cormorants, pelicans, black eagles, herons, ibis, vultures, ospreys and flamingos – these are just some of those that we managed to spot. In addition to birds, many species of mammals, fish, amphibians and reptiles also live here, including two species of crocodiles: American and Mexican (Morelet's crocodile). According to our guide, the local crocodiles are harmless and you can swim with them or pat them on the head. While we

let go of the first option (the water was too cold), I managed to confirm the version with stroking and I can still count on my fingers to ten. The best attraction of this place is an amazing arthropod inhabiting the local waters, a horseshoe crab, which unfortunately we did not manage to see during our cruise.

Flying to Mexico, I was focused on diving in cenotes and caves, treating other destinations as an interlude. On the spot, however, it turned out that while diving underground not only the Yucatan can delight.

IN THE LAND OF DRAGONS

Text Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz

Photos Adrian Juriewicz

Lion Air's red-and-white turbo propeller plane struggles to take off from the ground at Denpasar Airport. Everything is shaking, and we soar into the air in a vibrating rhythm.

Slowly, the turbulence stops, the plane reaches the cruising altitude, and the fasten seat belt indicator lights are off. The flight from Denpasar to Flores takes an hour and a half, the world from the window of the plane looks phenomenal, clouds take unusual shapes and are constantly transforming.

In the morning we land at the airport in Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores, the air temperature exceeds 35°C. After leaving the plane, we are hit by hot. This air is so familiar to me

air, it is saturated with the smell of the sea, sun-scorched vegetation and earth. We very efficiently collect the luggage and head to the exit, get on the bus and drive 10 minutes to the port. The road is narrow, winding and very picturesque. We stop at the parking lot, right next to the moored boats. After a while, porters appear next to us, who carry our bags to a motor boat. We also get on it and in the blink of an eye we are on a beautiful, blue and white sailing ship, which two days ago I saw in a photo on the Internet.

After getting acquainted with the yacht manager, crew and rules of the boat, we are divided into three diving groups, blue, red and black. Each of us receives a plastic box into which we put all the diving equipment. Boat workers cover every element of our equipment with coloured tapes (each colour corresponds to the group to which we were assigned) so that the crew does not confuse the equipment when putting it on the zodiacs (small operational boats).

The Komodo National Park is a unique place in terms of fauna and flora that occur here. On the northern side, sea currents can be strong and very unpredictable, which means that large fish, turtles, tuna, sharks, eagle rays come here. On the south side we can also meet large animals, but above all we will dive among incredibly colourful corals, which delight with an intense, nearly fluorescent colour even at considerable depths without additional artificial light. Diving in the Komodo National Park is not the easiest thing due to strong, changing currents, but it is definitely one of the most beautiful and diverse diving in the world. We had a companion on our cruise, a woman called Hope, who, as we learned during a short conversation, decided to fulfill her biggest dream being retired. For as long as she can remember, she has wanted to become a diver, the underwater world has fascinated her since she was a child. However, the fear of immersing her head under the surface of the water was so strong that she put off her dream for an unspecified time later. Two years ago, after her husband died, she enrolled in a diving course, and after completing it, she rented her house in Australia and went out into the world... Since then, she has been on the road all the time, and since her health is good, she sails already on the third cruise on this wonderful boat. In her spare time between dives she weaves coloured friendship bracelets, which relaxes her as much as diving. I like to observe Hope when she elaborately creates the colorful patterns of her small masterpieces, which she later gives to the crew and

guests. Sometimes in life it's not about getting to the goal but just daring to set off... We sail from the port in the evening, when the sun slowly sinks into the sea, leaving behind the orange-pink memory of the previous day. The boat stops only when on the horizon there are uplifts, gentle mountain chains rising straight from the sea. In the monsoon season, the slopes of the mountains are overgrown with lush grass, now, in the dry season, green meadows turned into barren steppes. Here and there, on the slopes of the hills, we see trees that rise above us like guardians of these extraordinary uplifts. There is silence all around, interrupted by the sounds of animals and gentle waves hitting the side of the ship. An anchor has been thrown into the sea, a thick chain slowly disappears into the dark, navy blue abyss. We stay here for the night, tomorrow morning we dive nearby, and now it's time for dinner. The table on the upper deck was covered with a white tablecloth and white tableware, and the napkins were arranged in lotus flowers. We enjoy the evening as well as the excellent dishes that were served to us. The next morning I wake up before dawn, the watch indicates 5:40, and I, as quietly as I can, on tiptoes, climb the wooden stairs to the upper deck. I take a deep breath and enjoy the space

that surrounds me, the peace and beauty of nature. I turn my face to the rising sun and gratefully enter a new day. A day off from social networks, e-mails, messengers and the whole number of applications, that I use every day. No coverage, no Internet: it's a real detox from social media.

There is undisturbed silence on board, everyone is still asleep, only Ketut one of the crew members, responsible for the order in the kitchenette, is bustling around the deck. He takes out his toasters, puts together mugs, brews coffee and smiles at me, saying good morning. The air fills with the wonderful aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Ketut was born in Bali near Ubud (the cultural capital of Bali). Every day at dawn he makes gifts to his gods. He puts flowers, cookies, candies and coins into a square basket of palm leaves. He lights the incense and sprinkles everything with water from a sacred source, which he stores in a small glass bottle. Finally, he puts a flower between the two fingers of his right hand and makes beautiful harmonious movements with it. He directs his attention to the heart and in concentration he begins to speak his requests to the ancestors, and they pass them on to God. There is not one rule of prayer, everyone devotes their prayers and intentions to what they believe. Balinese Hinduism – that's

what the local religion is called, which is mostly confessed by the inhabitants of Bali, borrowed a lot of elements from Buddhism and animist local beliefs.

Slowly the deck begins to teem with life, gentle yawns, sleepy good mornings, coffee, toasts, yogurt and fresh fruit, this is what our early breakfast looked like. It means we eat some snack fast before the first dive of the morning. The boat manager hits the bell several times, thus waking up the other participants of the cruise. After breakfast, we take part in a briefing, today we dive three times. Our cruise lasts seven days and is planned in detail, but it may change slightly if the current in a given dive site turns out to be too strong and we will not be able to go underwater. Then we will change the spot to a different one. During our stay on the boat we will visit the most beautiful dive destinations in this area such as Sebayor, Tatawa Besar, Gili Lawa, Tatawa Kecil, Mawan, Shotgun, Batu Bolong, Karang Makassar, Manta Alley, Loh Sera.

After the briefing, we put on wetsuits, the northern waters of Komodo are much warmer than in the south (from 21°C to 27°C). We get into zodiacs and sail to our first dive site Sebayor, which is a perfect location for a check dive. After reaching the place, we put on the diving equipment, sit on the side of the zodiac and jump into the water on the count of four. At the beginning, the temperature difference between air (35°C) and water (27°C) causes a slight thermal shock, but after a while comes the state that I love most: the moment when the body unites with water. I release all the air from

On the surface, the Komodo is calm, as if it held its breath for a moment, but as soon as we plunge under the surface of the water, we discover a completely different world. travels

my lungs and the wing and slowly begin to fall down. Along with us, a sea turtle submerges, which swam to the surface to get some air. We immerse ourselves together for a moment, but after a while the turtle floats away and disappears among the beautiful corals. We stop at 20 meters just above the sandy bottom, which grows both soft and hard corals. Among them, there are shrimps, tiny, transparent creatures, which are difficult to see with the unaided eye. My attention is drawn to a green-orange nudibranch with small protrusions on the head, which form a coloured plume. Its appearance fascinated me to such an extent that as I approached the snail I did not notice a small anemone that appeared next door. Almost immediately, its inhabitants came to me: two clownfish, also known as Nemo fish. The anemones began to attack and nibble on my diving mask. In this way, they wanted to scare off the intruder, who got dangerously close to them. The clownfish defend their home in this way their home – that is the anemone in which they have lived their entire lives.

On the surface, the Komodo is calm, as if it held its breath for a moment, but as soon as we plunge under the surface of the water, we discover a completely different world. A diverse world, saturated with colours, vibrant and very unpredictable. Tatawa Beser is a place that is also ideal for a check dive, but only when the sea currents are weak, or they don't exist at all. If they appear then the dive turns into drifting over beautiful sponges and soft corals that teem with marine life. Today, the

current is very strong, which makes blacktip sharks, octopuses and large shoals of fish appear.

Karangan Makassar also called Manta point is a location where you can meet manta rays all year round. Most often they swim close to the surface to feed on plankton, or they are at a depth of 15–17 m, where they undergo hygienic treat-

ments. A large group of people who came with us to Komodo had never seen these majestic creatures in their natural environment before. It is a great happiness and privilege to be able to dive with these magical creatures. Today, while diving in this location, five mantas arrived, they began to circulate over our heads, moving "wings" in a hurry. In moments like this, I very much regret that I cannot stay here for longer, under the surface of the water, surrounded by these majestic creatures and the world of peace, inspiration… The moment I saw the landscape of Loh Buaya National Park, I thought of Karen Blixen's book – “Farewell to Africa”. It is one of the most beautiful autobiographical novels I've ever read. Maybe the clime was very dry that time of the year, maybe it is because I could see in the background the incredibly beautiful view of mountains, but one thing is for sure, I felt there as if I were in Africa. To the National Park Loh Buaya we sail about 15 minutes by two small wooden boats. We moor the boats in a tiny harbor and descend the wooden stairs to the mainland. Welcome to Komodo – National Park Loh Buaya, a large white inscription welcomes us to the island of dragons. We walk along a narrow sandy road, along small hills. It's very hot, the air temperature is over 30 degrees. We pass through a concrete gate supported

Under the wooden buildings, erected on piles, you can see dragons also called Komodo dragons. These unique reptiles are the largest lizards on earth.

by two stone Komodo dragons. The sandy road leads us to several wooden buildings, where the rangers have their base (guardians and tour guides). Under the wooden buildings, erected on piles, you can see dragons also called Komodo dragons. These unique reptiles are the largest lizards on earth. The weight of adult individuals varies between 79–90 kg, and the length of the body is from 2.5 to 3 meters. They feed mainly on mammals, but there are also acts of cannibalism in their nests. Komodo dragons hunt by surprise, their saliva contains toxins that cause paralysis and, consequently, the death of the victim. Therefore, it is very important to follow all the rules of the reserve when visiting it. Together with the local guide, we slowly climb the highest mountain in the area. The rocky path is narrow, very winding. Only from this place can I see the incredible beauty that surrounds us. Apparently, our life is proof that miracles exist. Looking at the world around us, I believe that everything is a miracle...

Lavezzi

TREASURE OF THE STRAIT OF BONIFACIO

Text and photos Klaudyna Brzostowska

Last year I went on a several-month trip in a van around the nooks and crannies of Europe. I had with me a mobile home, a dog that was almost a water dog and a camera. During an unusual trip, I managed to find some interesting diving sites. The Archipelago of Lavezzi turned to be a unique surprise. The whole area has 2 km2 and consists of 8 uninhabited islands located in the Strait of Bonifacio – a body of water between Sardinia and Corsica. It is one of the most dangerous shipping destinations in the Mediterranean, due to the large number of reefs in the narrow strait and strong sea currents. The archipelago administratively belongs to France, however, you can get to the islands from both Corsica and from Sardinia. I got to Sardinia from France in my van. Actually, I got there by accident, on the recommendation of my acquaintance, an Italian photographer

Paolo Fossati, who was in Sardinia at the same time. He made it extremely clear that I had to go to the Lavezzi Reef. And that was what I did. We went on a full-day trip. We sailed from the port of Cannigione, which is located in the north of Sardinia, and after an hour of crossing the strait we reached the island of Lavezzi. All the islands of the archipelago are granite islands, surrounded by pure turquoise-emerald water. This area was established as a nature reserve in 1982. Since then, numerous studies on the management of fish stocks and the presence of seabirds have been carried out and continue to be carried out there. This is a place very rich in fauna, flora and in tourists, especially in the high season.

The main diving attraction of the archipelago is Grouper City. This place consists of massive granite boulders and walls of fabulous reef, where corals impress with their colours and

shapes (at a depth of about 22 m you can admire impressive gorgonians). Many years ago, dusky groupers that live here were fed with eggs, which means that now every time divers appear, fish swim up to people really close. Several large specimens joined our team and we spent more than half of the time underwater with these curious individuals. The dusky grouper (Epinephelus marginatus) is a fish with an average length of 1.5 m and an average weight of 60 kg.

This fish lives at cliff shores above the rocky bottom with numerous crevices and caverns. It can be found at a depth of 8 to 200 m. It usually spends its life in solitude within the clearly marked territory that has a lot of hiding places – it usually stays inside them. That is why Grouper City is a unique place. It is because here the dusky gropers, instead of hiding in caverns, they swim away from their pits, pose for photos and wait for the reward.

Peltodoris atromaculata enjoying its favourite food – sponge

The main diving attraction of the archipelago is Grouper City. This place consists of massive granite boulders and walls of fabulous reef, where corals impress with their colours and shapes (at a depth of about 22 m you can admire impressive gorgonians).

In addition to the aforementioned fish, the Lavezzi Archipelago has a lot of other interesting specimens of fauna to offer. You can often see a large shoal of barracudas, single eagle rays, masked scorpionfish and starved nudibranchs (including those commonly called sea cows). The archipelago is an ideal place for intermediate divers, as well as those experienced who are looking for impressions in the depths.

´ How to get there: by car from Poland and by ferry from Italy to Sardinia or Corsica, by plane from Poland to Sardinia or Corsica

´ Diving season: May – September

´ Water temperature: 24 degrees Celsius

´ A wetsuit: 5mm, and 7mm for those who dislike the cold; anyone who wants to, can put on a drysuit

Sphyraena barracuda in the depths near the island of Lavezzi

Text and photos

Kurt Storms

HISTORY

The Salem Express was launched in France in June 1965 under the name ‘Fred Scamaroni’ a member of the French resistance of WWII. The owner of the ship was The Compagnie Generale Transatlantique. She was a roll-on, Roll-off Ferry for vehicles and passengers in the Mediterranean. In June 1966, it began sailing its first route between Marseille – Ajaccio after being delayed for a fire in the engine room. The Ship was 115 m Long and 18m Wide. She was sold in 1988 to the Samatour shipping company and started running trips between Safaga and Jeddah under the name ‘Salem Express’.

In 1991 she began sailing her usual 450 mile journey from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia to Safaga,Egypt.

The Trip would take about 36 hours, They intended to unload 350 passengers in Safaga before they heading to Suez.

This route was a standard schedule since 1988. However, the ship’s departure was delayed for 2 days in Saudi Arabia because of a mechanical fault.

On the 14th of December 1991 she was returning from Jeddah with hundreds of pilgrims ho had just been to Mecca. A storm was blowing gale force and the people on the outer decks were getting drenched, So the captain decided to stay

close to the shore to shave time of the journey, instead of the longer route along the outer reefs. Unfortunately, the captain misjudged their position, and at 11:31pm she ran out an outer pinnacle of Hyndman Reef. The result was Disastrous.

Not only was water coming in from a hole in the starboard side, but the impact was hard, the impact caused that the bow loading door to open, letting thousand of liters of water in. Almost immediately the ferry started to list over to the starboard side, making it impossible for the crew to deploy any of the lifeboats.

The Salem express under the command of Captain Hassan Moro, who had the command from 1988, sank within 20 minutes of hitting the reef. Manny people died trapped inside the

wreck. Because there was a hard storm and the fact the tragedy occurred more than a hour from the port in the middle of the night, rescue boats arrived much to late. More than 180 of the survivors had to swim to the shore. Loss of life was Considerable, with the official figure being quoted as 464. Rumor suggest that the ship was overload and that the death toll was closer to 1200. Many bodies were recovered after the sinking, but eventually a halt was called due to the danger involved and that the wreck was sealed with plates welded across openings.

The first survivor Ismail Abdul Hassan, who was an amateur long-distance swimmer who worked as an agricultural engineer, stood on the ship’s deck as it went down. He followed the lights of the port and swam to shore, surviving 18 hours int the water. He attended to lead two other men to safety, who held onto his clothes, but died f exhaustion on the way.

DIVING THE SALEM EXPRESS

We reach the wreck by a decent line. She is lying on its port side and make our way around the stern to the back, where we now have a good visibility on the 2 propellers. They are giants. Between the propellers we see the rudder. After taking some pictures we go to the decks, and we see the lifeboats on 30 m of depth. In the past there where 2 lifeboats on the bottom. But now there is only one left. Nobody knows where the second on is.

I like wrecks, but I don’t like lifeboats on the bottom of the ocean. Lifeboats are supposed to carry people when the ship sinks, and bring them in safety, and they can’t do that when they’re on the bottom.

At the back of the ship, I see on the bottom of the ocean, a television, radio. People who dived the Salem Express before me, they had to put it like this, because this is not a natural movement.

We go further to the front and see the big exhausts. on the side you see the logo of Salem Express. The Exhaust are full of live. Lots of corral grows in the years the ship has sunk.

Further to the front you come to the captain’s deck. I penetrate it, and I come in the room of the captain, his bad. There is not lots of instruments anymore. I go up and I find my exit by a door on the side.

I continue my way, via port side, and enter the cargo zone via an open hatch. I descend here and penetrate via this road into the corridors of the ship, here one can still find remnants of cars. It is still grim, knowing that many lives were lost in this tragic accident. On the way, I come across a few wheelbarrows with mattresses in them, suitcases.

From afar I suddenly see the light penetrating back into the wreckage. After emerging from the wreckage, I now look for a way to the restaurant. I go through an opening in the restaurant. adopt a stable position, so that I can also take some photos here. The tables are still standing, but the upholstery has deteriorated bit by bit over the years.

Now it's time to say goodbye to this beautiful wreck and do my decompression duties. These are not so big, this is because I did the dive on a rebreather, so the decompression obligations are drastically less compared to traditional diving

Once back on the boat, everyone is quiet for a moment. They all think it is a beautiful wrack, but because of the history, the dead, it will always remain a cemetery and we must show the necessary respect.

HOW TO CHOOSE AN UNDERSUIT FOR YOUR DRYSUIT?

Learn more on how to test any undersuit – a test description is provided in the article

Choosing an undersuit is one of the three steps towards “dry diving”. The correct order of purchases is as follows:

1. Underwear

2. Undersuit

3. Drysuit

Both underwear and the undersuit need to fit (along with the diver themselves, of course ) into the suit, and what’s more important, the diver needs to be safe wearing the suit. It means that they shouldn’t be squeezed into the suit, but that’s not all – reaching the valves, reading the manometer, manipulating SM tanks, conducting a rescue operation and any other activity should by possible without any range or freedom of movement restrictions. To this end, you need to make sure to choose a drysuit (our purchase no. 3), into which the diver wearing underwear and the undersuit can fit easily. In other words: because the undersuit along with the underwear are decisive for the diver’s thermal comfort, it is a good idea to choose the undersuit first and then choose a drysuit to match.

Every undersuit has a number of characteristics that need to be checked in practice to assess their usefulness.

We should list those that increase the undersuit’s functionality under water – for example the suspenders, which influences the arm movement range (which isn’t obvious to everyone).

No less important are the “surface” characteristics of the undersuit, such as water and wind resistance, because we often put the gear on under less than ideal weather conditions.

Let’s learn those characteristics with the TECLINE 3D Mobility undersuit.

It is an interesting proposition, designed in cooperation with divers and diving instructors. This undersuit has been tested under harsh conditions by Ghost Diving divers, among others.

It was entirely designed at Tecline and manufactured by the US company Pinnacle, well known for their excellent products that provide the best thermal insulation. After checking the usability characteristics of the undersuit, Pinnacle included Tecline 3D Mobility in its offer.

THE

FOLLOWING ARE THE KEY CHARACTERISTICS OF THE UNDERSUIT

1. Fit and full movement range

A tightly fitting undersuit restricts the diver’s freedom of movement, one that is too loose forces you to take additional weights.

Tecline 3D Mobility is a well-considered combination of the two. Its design provides full freedom of movement and in order to avoid the use of extra fabric, an elastic fabric that maintains heat comfort was used over the armpits and in the connection between the upper and the lower part.

2. Buoyancy control

In order to ensure free flow of gas through the undersuit and additionally facilitate its quick evacuation in emergencies, perforated inserts that instantly release gas from the undersuit were used over both shoulders. Tecline 3D Mobility design helps manage dynamic depth changes without the risk of uncontrolled ascent caused by the undersuit “holding the gas”.

Undersuits are manufactured in two thickness versions, which allow for choosing the proper thermal comfort both in very cold water, under the thermocline (490 version of the undersuit) and in moderate temperature water (version 290) – the most commonly picked version for trimix dives in the Adriatic and waters with a similar temperature. The key factor is that the thicker the undersuit, the more important easy gas flow becomes.

3. Your position underwater and undersuit fit on the diver Suspenders – a key to safety.

A dropping crotch on your undersuit significantly limits the movement range of both arms and legs of the diver. It makes it much harder to operate valves in an emergency, reduces swimming speed (for example while towing another diver) and gets in the way when getting out of the water (when you climb the ladder to the boat for example). One of the most important features of every diving undersuit are wide, stable and fully adjustable suspenders. All versions of Tecline 3D Mobility come fitted with such a solution.

Additionally – the shape of the sleeves and legs allows for free and long-term maintenance of the proper position underwater.

4. Important accessories that increase comfort

elastic wrist cuffs lower the risk of rapid flooding of the undersuit, should there be a leak in your dry glove —wrist mesh to shorten the undersuit drying time

rubber bands at the wrists to make pulling a drysuit over the undersuit easier

elastic ankle cuffs and rubber bands to stabilize the legs of the undersuit, which allow the lower part of the drysuit to be put on easily without rolling the undersuit upwards

soft stand-up collar with a zipper protector, which doesn’t press against the diver’s neck

—two-way zipper

two pockets with a soft finishing and a zipped one

5. P-valve and electric heating

The undersuit comes with 2 two openings to stabilize the p-valve tube on the right or the left hand side, depending on the diver’s preference. An additional opening allows for easy introduction of the wire that powers your electric vest or gloves. The opening location does not interfere with the position of the drysuit’s inflation valve.

6. Materials used

Pinnacle proposed material solutions that ensure high thermal comfort underwater, safety for the diver when preparing for diving under harsh conditions (rain, snow, strong wind) and maximum material durability, which lets you use Tecline 3D Mobility for many years.

The liner (the layer closest to the diver’s body) – is Micropolar with a density of 200 g/m2, the internal layer is Fleece 250 g/m2, while the external layer is made of Pertex 40 g/m2.

7. Maintenance

The design of the undersuit was closely connected with recognizing the divers’ needs – one was obvious: I’d really like to toss the undersuit into the washing machine and not worry that I’d ruin it.

The Tecline 3D Mobility undersuit may be washed in an automatic washing machine or dry cleaned.

This undersuit was designed by divers. It means that the solutions used in the design are there for a reason. Comfortable cave or wreck diving, as well as hours-long water sessions that diving instructors have are key elements that translated into the advanced and well-considered design of the undersuit.

Technical analysis and thermovision testing

We invite you to review comparative test of various undersuits that show how well they keep warmth at www.teclinediving.eu, you can find the “Download” section next to the description of each undersuit, which will include all the test results: https://katalog.tecline.com.pl/ocieplacz-tecline-290-g-m-3-l,3,3017,2964

Does it mean that Tecline 3D Mobility is the best undersuit for the discerning diver? We invite everyone to answer this question themselves, having tested the undersuit during their own dives!

STEP 1

1. The undersuit should come with suspenders (to support the place where legs come together, called the “crotch”, as high as possible). Pull these tight so that the undersuit’s crotch does not come down (don’t put the upper part on – focus on the lower part, as if you were trying on trousers).

2. Put a chair in front of you, hold on to something and with one calm motion (not a rapid throw) put your whole foot on the seat. Make sure that the undersuit’s crotch stays in place (it shouldn’t hang). Now switch your legs. Your movement cannot be restricted in any way, so put your foot on a chair and try to feel if the undersuit makes it any harder.

You can feel tension in the crotch, around buttocks or knees. If you pulled the suspenders tight, the crotch is where it’s supposed to be and the undersuit resists around the buttock – try a bigger one. If you feel tension around the knee – drop the rubber bands that stretch the legs you wear around your heels. Did it help? Great, now put the upper part of the undersuit on and repeat the test – focus on eliminating anything that would restrict your movement. What is this for?

The higher you can raise your foot without any tension, the easier it will be to climb the ladder to the boat or to the jetty after you are done diving. If you skip this part of the test or you just accept

Tecline Team

LEARN HOW TO TEST ANY UNDERSUIT A simple and effective test in just three steps.

the lack of suspenders or even slight tension when lifting your leg – you accept the risk of trouble while getting out of the water. This in turn lowers the safety of diving.

STEP 2

Do not put the leg stabilizing rubber bands on, check the position of the crotch and adjust the suspenders if they’re too loose. Put on and fasten the upper part of the undersuit.

1. Sit down with your legs crossed – do it slowly, adjusting the undersuit as you go. If you feel tension around your knees, stand up and pull the suit legs up. It’s a good idea to put on thick, long socks over the undersuit’s legs. They will work as stabilizers.

2. With one steady movement, raise your right arm and try grabbing your left ear. All movements should be calm. Focus on feeling any tension in the undersuit. Now switch the arm and the ear ). If it helps, delicately pull the sleeve at the forearm. What is this for?

This part of the test lets you see how much the undersuit restricts your arms movement range with full tension in its lower part. If you have no problem reaching your ears, you shouldn’t have any problem reaching the valves, reading the manometer or manipulating SM tanks.

When you position yourself head up under water, the gas from the lower part of the suit moves up, towards your shoulders, while the undersuit around your legs and hips becomes immobile – in our test we simulated that by sitting cross-legged. As with the previous test – do not accept any movement restrictions the undersuit may cause. Restricted upward arm movement may make it impossible to perform many critical tasks under water – for example reading manometer or fixing a gas leak – do not accept restrictions. They make your diving less safe.

STEP 3

While standing, check if the undersuit lies well. Check and adjust the suspenders tension. Delicately pull the sleeves up and make

SUMMARY, OR TO BE MORE SPECIFIC, THREE KEY TAKEAWAYS

sure the thick socks keep the suit legs where it is the most comfortable to you.

Put a pen on the floor. Put one foot on the floor next to it, kneel down on the other by moving the other foot back. Reach down for the pen with both hands. Do everything slowly.

Feel for tension and restrictions caused by the undersuit, focus on your back most this time. You should be able to reach the pen and grab it with both hands simultaneously. If you have any problems with your spine, move the leg you are kneeling on to the back a little. Now stand up and repeat the test with the other foot next to the pen.

What is this for?

This movement range is necessary during rescue, when you’re pulling the victim out of the water. Do not accept any movement restrictions the undersuit may cause in this case. By accepting them, you may significantly reduce your diving safety or... have trouble picking the pen up.

1. Check the thermal comfort an undersuit provides on our own in the water (manufacturers’ descriptions should only be considered to get your bearings)

2. Performance characteristics of the undersuit are tested by spending as much time wearing it as possible, both underwater and on the surface, preparing your diving gear or... cleaning your apartment 

3. We ALWAYS choose the drysuit last – it must not restrict the undersuit’s characteristics we’ve learnt already Do you have any doubts?

Test before you purchase – most reputable companies provide test gear in all models and sizes

Never dive in a badly fitted drysuit, undersuit or underwear – it is very dangerous!

Visit the Tecline Academy and learn more about how to test an undersuit properly – it costs nothing and can significantly increase the safety and comfort of your dives.

Use this opportunity to take two Tecline undersuits in two different thicknesses to the test.

Photos in the article Mariusz Czajka

„MANTA” PROJECT

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA TALKS TO ANA FILIPA SOBRAL (MANTA CATALOG AZORES)

Wojciech Zgoła: Why the manta rays?

Oceanário: Oceanário de Lisboa encourages people to learn more about the ocean and finances various conservation projects around the world, including in the Azores, where it helps to raise awareness to the natural capital found in the archipelago. When Oceanário began to draw this dream of a programme for ecotourism, connecting divers to species conservation, and simultaneously ensuring financial sustainability for conservation projects, Manta Catalog Azores, a project that was already funded by Oceanário, naturally emerged as a key

Photo Will Appleyard

partner, as they study the aggregation of the devil ray around the Island of Santa Maria, striving to increase knowledge on the behaviour of this species and to identify necessary actions for its protection.

WZ: Where did the idea for the expedition come from and is it a scientific expedition with the possibility of ordinary divers?

O: Manta Conservation Experience was born from Oceanário de Lisboa's desire to, in one way, create something to connect the common diver with the conservation projects there are being done – namely Manta Catalog Azores – but also trying to create a way to expand the funding capacity for conservation projects. Combining these two premises aims to archive better results for the project and a sustainable activity for the future. Manta Conservation Experience also aims to set the ground for more conscientious and sustainable dive practices and raise awareness on the importance of scientific data collection to drive change through better and more informed conservation and management measures. We want to connect the common diver with the conservation efforts and get them the opportunity to discover more about the species they dive with.

WZ: What specific species are you researching?

Ana Filipa Sobral/Manta Catalog Azores: Manta Catalog Azores aims to further our knowledge on mantas and devil rays (Mobulids) found in the Azores and the Eastern Atlantic, a region where little data is available on these animals. Three species can be found here, between June and October each year: the Sicklefin Devil Ray (Mobula tarapacana), the Oceanic Manta Ray (Mobula birostris) and the Spinetail Devil Ray (Mobula mobular). The shallow seamounts around the Azores are some of the few places on earth where Sicklefin devil rays gather in large groups, and the presence of these predictable aggregations provides a unique opportunity to study them.

WZ: What are some individuals marked with?

AFS/MCA: Manta rays and the sicklefin devil ray have unique natural markings on their bellies. These are unique to each animal, similarly to our fingerprints, which allows us to identify them using photographs, a method known as photo-ID. By building a database with ID-photos of each animal, together with information on when/where they were photographed, we can track their movements as well as learn more about their migration patterns, population size, reproduction, etc – crucial information to make informed management decisions for the conservation of these animals.

WZ: How long does the research take?

AFS/MCA: Projects like Manta Catalog Azores are usually long-

term projects. Mainly due to the nature of a technique like photo-identification, which aims to study individuals and populations through time. Once an individual has been IDed, every time they are photographed again, we will be able to learn more about it. So, the bigger the database the highest the chance to have a re-sight and the more we will be able to learn about these animals and their populations through time.

WZ: What have you achieved so far? What conclusions have been drawn?

AFS/MCA: So far there are almost 300 identified individuals on our database.

When the project started it was the first time this technique was used to study the Sicklefin devil ray, so the main questions behind it were: Can we use photo-ID to study the Sicklefin devil ray in the Azores? Do the same individuals return to the Azores in different years? Today we can say that photo-ID is a viable tool to study these animals and we also know that individuals do return to the Azores in different years. Some of them return several times and others have been photographed 9 years after the first sighting.

WZ: Where do you publish your research?

AFS/MCA: The research is published in peer-reviewed journals, but we also make sure to disseminate and share it amongst the general public, especially since the project relies on “Citizen Scientists” – divers and local dive operators that contribute with data on their sightings of these animals, as well as with ID-photos.

WZ: Are manta rays dangerous to humans?

AFS/MCA: Manta and devil rays are completely harmless to hu-

Photo Ana Filipa Sobral

mans, in fact they are known as gentle giants due to their impressive size and gentle nature.

WZ:Do they interact with people, what is it about?

AFS/MCA: Manta rays have the largest brain of all fish, and their curiosity and apparent intelligence make encountering them an unforgettable experience. Their interaction with divers has granted them a charismatic status amongst the diving community. Devil rays are known to be more elusive and generally very shy towards divers. However, that is not the case with the Sicklefin devil ray which just like mantas will swim up to divers with obvious curiosity, making for an incredible encounter. When one of these animals looks directly into your eyes it is a moment hard to forget.

WZ: How to behave in the presence of these majestic creatures?

AFS/MCA: Having the chance to encounter these animals underwater is an incredible experience, however it is important we behave in a way that does not disturb them. The first important step is to choose a responsible tour operator, which respects the animals and any existing laws and guidelines or codes of conduct in place in the area you will be snorkelling or diving. The Manta Trust team has created a Best Practice Code of Conduct for Manta Ray Tourism, a set of guidelines and information for both tourists and operators which you can find at https://swimwithmantas.org. By following these guidelines, you are both enhancing your experience and ensuring your presence does not disturb the animals. Some of the things to keep in mind are:

1. Keep your distance; 2. remain still and let the manta come to you, do not chase after them; 3. do not block their path; 4. do not touch them, you will ruin the encounter for everyone and may receive a fine depending on local laws; 5. Make sure

to follow any extra rules, laws and regulations that may be specific to the site you're visiting.

WZ:Do they live in the same area? What distances do they travel daily, monthly, annually?

AFS/MCA: Mantas and devil rays often undertake seasonal migrations, and their movements are driven by ocean currents and food (plankton) availability. These family has very diverse and complex behaviours. Depending on the species, they can be more resident or highly migratory, being able to travel dozens, hundreds or even thousands of kilometres. They are also known to dive quite deep, the Sicklefin devil ray, for example, can dive up to 2 kilometres deep.

WZ: Is it true that manta rays can fly in the air? When is this happening and why? Do mantas communicate with each other?

AFS/MCA: Manta rays can jump out of the water, but devil rays are known to be the true acrobats. Specially the Munk’s Devil Ray (Mobula munkiana), known to aggregate in vast schools of thousands of rays – jumping up to 3 meters above the water while performing flips and somersaults and then going back into the ocean with a loud “splash”. The exact reason for this behaviour is unknown, but it has been discussed its purpose could be communication.

WZ: How many manta rays are killed in a year?

AFS/MCA: In the last decades a new market arose for the gill plates of Mobulids, to be used in use in Asian Medicine. This led to Mobulids now being heavily sought after and to the rise of targeted fisheries. In addition, they are increasingly being caught in fisheries directed to other species, in what is called by-catch. Despite many conservation achievements, and enhanced protection against the gill plate trade in the last few

Photo Will Appleyard

years, fisheries, both targeting them for their gill plates and catching them as bycatch, are still their biggest threats, and have devastated populations worldwide, with mantas still being killed in their thousands and devil rays in their tens of thousands, as bycatch in high seas fisheries.

WZ: What are you counting on in 2022 after 2 years of pandemic? Has their population increased during this time?

AFS/MCA: 2022 will hopefully allow us to fully be back in the water collecting as much data as possible. The pandemic inevitably affected our ability to be out in the field but also the amount of data collected from divers and operators, since there were less people travelling. Unfortunately, one of the reasons why Mobulids are threatened is their inability to rapidly recover from decreases in their populations. These animals live long, take a long time to be able to reproduce and don’t reproduce often, having a pup every 3–5 years. This makes it impossible for them to recover their populations in such a short time, even if all the threats they face would have ceased completely during the pandemic. Of the nine recognized species by the IUCN's Red List of Threatened Species two are listed as “Vulnerable” and seven as “Endangered”, all with declining populations. Now more than ever it is important to continue to study these amazing fish and to work for their conservation.

WZ: What will the participant of such an expedition experience?

Oceanário: Participants will have a unique, immersive experience and a deep connection with the ocean. For one week, they will be able to dive twice a day in a variety of spots in Natural Reserves and Marine Protected Areas which have a huge

variety of underwater geological formations and an extremely diverse and rich marine life – not only devil rays but, potentially, divers may also meet with sharks, whales and dolphins. Diving in Santa Maria is a very exclusive experience – there will only be a very limited number of divers per time slot in each place, to preserve and respect protected areas. Participants will also discover more about the devil rays and will learn about techniques of photo-identification. They will also conclude the experience with personal fulfilment from the certainty that they have given a direct contribute to the protection of these threatened species and ocean conservation, not only by financially supporting the project, but also by helping collect valuable data and photos for scientific research.

Photo Ana Filipa Sobral

ICE CREAM, FREE DRINKS AND... WHALES

how to choose a whale watching cruise operator?

Text Jakub Banasiak

In many diving destinations we can meet various species of dolphins and whales. However, the laws of various countries prohibit swimming with wild marine mammals. In order to observe them and meet them face to face, it is worth choosing whale watching cruises in such places.

Tour operators whale watching offer is usually extensive and we have a choice of boats and ships of different sizes, as well as many additional attractions and pleasures, ranging from snacks, welcome drinks, and a bar on board, to the possibility of snorkelling in safe coves or even fancy, funny entertainments for tourists. Of course, on a holiday or especially a family trip, all this is important, but the truth is that the more ice cream, snacks and drinks, the less focus on professional animal observation and –unfortunately – often less concern for their welfare and the protection of the marine ecosystem.

Big boats and catamarans mean a huge crowd of tourists, noise, music, accumulation of disposable (sometimes still plastic) lunch wrappers and drinks,

sweets rubbish that the wind blows into the sea and no communication with the ocean.

Such ships simply offer a sea excursion that is dedicated to dolphin or whale watching, but on board it is often more important to sell ice creams, sunbathe or have a happy hour than to learn about the behaviour or conservation issues of marine mammals. Of course, there are also advantages – for example, larger vessels can go out to sea even when the weather is less favourable, and the waves are bigger –but then the observation of cetaceans is simply difficult.

So, it is better to look for small boats offering eco-cruises. "Eco-cruise" is not a new buzzword, but a specific way and standard of operation. Such small boats, mainly zodiacs, can offer more to

Photos

Sergio David Hernandez Herrera, Jakub Banasiak

both tourists and ocean life. What gives us the right to use the term "eco"?

The most important thing is to follow the guidelines on how to approach the animals by boat, the number of boats in a given area, how long to stay near the observed pod, etc. All this has a huge impact on the welfare of the cetaceans. Additionally, responsible whale watching operators go to great lengths to ensure that best practice is followed. When a captain witnesses bad practices at sea by other operators, he addresses them directly on the radio to inform them of the regulations and try to educate them to change their behaviour. Responsible whale watching operators also implement rules such as: eliminating single-use plastics, having trained staff on board, including a certified guide (often a marine biologist who actually educates tourists not only about the behaviour of individual species, but also about environmental risks and the importance of sustainable tourism), and working closely with wildlife rescue organisations.

Of course, some large units operate this way as well. But small zodiacs can do even more. They fish plastic trash out of the water, help to free sea turtles entangled in leftover nets, rescue sea birds.

Many of the small boats also have hydrophones, allowing tourists to listen to the sounds made by the dolphins and whales they encounter. The crews also carry out photo identification of the individuals they meet. These photos

are a serious contribution to the study of local cetacean populations

The smaller the boat, the closer to the water surface we are. The closer to the water surface, the more good can be done and the closer we get to the cetaceans that swim up to the zodiac themselves. Usually, such boats also have quieter new-generation engines, which is extremely important from an animal welfare point of view.

Patricia Arranz, a biologist at the University of La Laguna in Tenerife, recently published a study in the journal Scientif-

ic Reports on the effects of whale watching boat engine noise on the behaviour of cetaceans off the coast of Tenerife. The research team used drones to observe the behaviour of mother-calf pairs of pilot whales. 13 pairs were observed without the presence of any boat, and another 23 pairs when a whale watching boat with a louder combustion engine or quieter electric motor slowly approached at a distance of 60 metres, according to the Canary Islands' cetacean watching guidelines. The researchers found that compared

to those pairs that were not approached by any boat, mothers approached by a boat with a noisy combustion engine spent on average 29% less time resting and 81% less time feeding their young. No significant reductions in resting or feeding were observed in pilot whales that were approached with a quieter electric motor. From other studies we know that reduced resting and feeding can have a significant negative impact on calf survival.

Sometimes, when we, as tourists, are guided mainly by the price of tickets or succumb to clever marketing, we allow ourselves to be tempted by operators who are focused mainly on profit and do not care about animal welfare. Some operate illegally, without the required permits, others break key rules, just to satisfy their demanding customers.

It might seem that this type of situation occurs only in developing countries, where there are no legal regulations, and for boat owners every trip is a financial 'to be or not to be' for the family. Such practices would probably not be so surprising in Cambodia, Laos, Nicaragua or even Panama. Unfortunately, the whale watching business, in some of its forms, is becoming problematic also in highly developed European countries, such as the already mentioned Spanish Tenerife.

The whale and dolphin watching industry in Tenerife is already one of the largest and best known in the world. It is estimated to generate 42 million euros a year from 1.4 million tourists. The marine area between Tenerife and La Gomera became a certified whale heritage site in January 2021.

Cetacean watching brings more than 700,000 tourists to Tenerife every year, making it the second most popular activity for visitors, with a huge economic impact.

The challenge, however, is that illegally operating boats with no concern for animal welfare outnumber those with the necessary certifications, operating to the required standards.

The whale watching companies that make up the Whale Watching Association of South Tenerife (Asociación de Cetáceos Sur de Tenerife) are demanding that the Spanish central government and the Canary administration increase controls on this activity.

Fines for illegal whale watching activities in the region range from €6,000 to €60,000. However, as the association's president, Higinio Guerra, has pointed out in previous years, although the Guardia Civil tries to do something – carries out checks and draws up protocols, these unfortunately do not result in any sanctions and the reports are mysteriously "lost" during the proceedings.

The association, together with Tenerife councillors committed to cetacean conservation, is promoting a whale-watching quality charter based on the voluntary commitment of companies and containing fifteen points which are assessed annually during 'mystery shopper' visits. Specially trained people anonymously take part in the trips to as-

sess their quality and adherence to the code of conduct.

Whale watching boat traffic is also being monitored by organisations actively involved in the protection of dolphins and whales off the coast of Tenerife. They carry out observations both from the sea and from land, informing the relevant authorities of any observed

violations of cetacean welfare. Sometimes these efforts have a satisfactory outcome.

Officers from the Unidad de Seguridad Interior and Policía Administrativa del Cuerpo General de la Policía Canaria (CGPC), based in Tenerife, launched several investigations at the end of last year during an operation carried out between 6 and 8 December. Their aim was to monitor compliance with specific regulations on cetacean sightings by vessels operating from a port in the south of Tenerife, as well as to promote good practice in accordance with the law in force.

Surveillance was carried out both on land and from the sea, aboard a special vessel. Eighteen boats were inspected, and seven administrative proceedings were initiated. Four of these showed a lack of administrative authorisation to allow recreational cetacean-watching activities. Another indicated a violation of the regulations regarding access to the exclusion zone, where only two whale watching vessels can remain at

a time, and the rest concerned deficiencies in marine documentation.

The Cuerpo General de la Policía Canaria (General Police Corps of the Canary Islands) intends to exercise greater control over whale watching activities, preventing inappropriate practices that

degrade the natural environment and have a negative impact on the species that inhabit the area.

All this, however, is absolutely inadequate. The distinctive red vessel monitoring the activities of whale watching boats too often stands idle in the

(...) the most important thing is to make the right, informed choices by us – customers and tourists. Small zodiacs run by people with a real commitment to the environment, marked – as in the case of Tenerife – with the characteristic blue flag – Barco Azul will be the best choice here.

harbour (it cannot sail without the captain, who has a surprisingly long leave). And when it is moored at the quay (with the curtains drawn at the windows), it is a kind of signal to illegal boats that they can go to sea with impunity.

Therefore, the most important thing is to make the right, informed choices by us – customers and tourists. Small zodiacs run by people with a real commitment to the environment, marked – as in the case of Tenerife – with the characteristic blue flag – Barco Azul will be the best choice here.

Special thanks to Sergio Hernandez Herrera, skipper of the boat DIOMEDEA (BONADEA II) from Puerto Colon in Costa Adeje for providing photos of his cruises.

Driven by passion

Karolina Sztaba, better known as KAROLA TAKES PHOTOS

underwater photographer, designer, and artist. Always positive, she says that her head is full of creative ideas that often take her to unusual places. In this issue Karola takes us on a journey to exotic underwater places, tells us what inspires her, and talks about her eco-projects she likes to get involved in.

IN CONVERSATION WITH LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

You spent the last 5 years in Indonesia documenting the underwater world of tropical coral reefs, professional divers, and participating in many environmental campaigns. Did you plan to take up underwater photography professionally when you went on this trip?

Photography has always been my passion, but also my livelihood. I graduated from the photography faculty and since then I have been involved in various fields of photography, from product photography, through wedding photography, to fashion and reportage photography.

When I went to Indonesia, I did not plan to stay there for more than a few weeks. Everything changed the moment

I went underwater for the first time with the encouragement of my cousin Patcy, who worked as a divemaster. In no time, I fell in love with the light underwater! I was inspired by this whole new world where light provides new opportunities for photography. During that very first dive I decided that this is the place and landscape that I want to capture in my photos... I wasn't thinking about a career as a professional underwater photographer yet, but I knew that it wouldn't stop with one dive and that one day I would take my camera with me – something was born in me then – the desire to capture a moment in this amazing world where light is simply addictive and indescribable!

Was that the moment when you decided that you would stay in Indonesia for a long time?

At that time, I was still rather unsure about it. When I saw the first underwater pictures taken by Pepe Arcos, one of the freedivers and photographers on Gili Trawangan, I thought "woow! This is something that I will also do one day". From that moment I started to seriously consider this unconventional career path. Of course, I had a lot to learn and figure out what I needed to pay attention to, what to avoid and how to work with the changing environmental factors when shooting underwater. I learned from my own mistakes: hundreds of hours spent underwater and processing photos. At some point I just got what it was all about (laughs), I just felt it and that was it. From the very beginning I knew what I was aiming at and what I wanted to achieve, and when after some time the shots that I planned and the way of editing started to resemble the images from my imagination, I knew that Karola Takes Photos underwater was born. (laughs)

Having already had a lot of experience in photography, what was your biggest challenge in underwater photography?

Buoyancy (laughs). As a newcomer to the world of scuba diving, my main focus for a few months was on perfecting my neutral buoyancy techniques and moving underwater. Once I mastered the basics to perfection, it was only then that I took my camera with me.

As for taking the pictures themselves, it's still playing with light, except under different circumstances. Because of the loss of colour under water, the processing of the photos is also different, and therefore you have to approach the subject in the right way. But it is still a play with light.

Do you think you're still growing as a photographer?

Definitely! I'm still constantly honing my photo processing, taking online courses, and improving my photo editing skills, not just the underwater ones. Talking to fellow professionals also helps. Exchange

of ideas, tips on settings, working with light – it all makes me grow as a photographer.

I continue to experiment with colours and evolve. I am not afraid of changes. I like to challenge myself, that's why photography never bores me. I can always find something new in it.

I usually edit photos just by feel. I don't have a specific template, filters or settings as each image is different, but I have found my style. There is often a rather dark, mysterious, even mystical atmosphere in my photos. I play with natural light, and this imposes an additional challenge but also gives more possibilities.

Looking at your photographs there are both otherworldly landscapes, portraits, eco-manifestos, and technical divers. Which subject matter are you the most passionate about?

In photography I am interested in people and the story behind one shot or a series of images that tell a story. One of my favourite photographers is Diane Arbus because of the fact that her pictures speak, they carry the truth about the person photographed. For this reason, I also like Cartier-Bresson. I love truth in photography, art in general. They and many other outstanding photographers inspire me incredibly. I am also in love with

paintings from the Romantic era. Through their landscapes, the artists were able to release emotions of a sense of spiritual connection with nature, of humility towards everything that surrounds us. My favourite painter is Caspar David Friedrich, and it is this mystery in his paintings that totally draws me in. I like understatements (but only in art! <smile>). Underwater world gives many more possibilities to create compositions a little bit out of this world, understated, mystical. After all, what's under the surface is incomparable to what surrounds us every day.

It's a little different underwater. I create my compositions using natural light. I like to create an atmosphere. I like simplicity, because as you know "less is more". I don't like portraits flattened with flash, taken in exaggerated light. I try to make the person I am photographing a part of the whole picture, but also to co-exist with the surrounding environment, be it a coral reef or underwater creatures that inhabit it – because I want everything in the picture to have its place and to be a part of the story that I put together at the moment of taking the photograph.

I also love black and white photos, because by "taking away the colours", the photo takes on a different value, carries more emotions, conveys feelings, and gives food for thought. That is

why 2 years ago I created a black and white underwater project called "Manifesto".

Do you have a so-called dream shot in your head? A picture that you would like to take?

Whales! I look forward to the moment of capturing these defenceless giants. In that moment, a person can really feel awe of nature and realise how tiny they are. Of course, my love is the manta rays – the way they move in the water, the different characters they have, the way they can catch contact (not just eye contact) or play with air bubbles. I always imagine them dancing around us divers. But these are not the only "dream shots". I have a lot of ideas, and the underwater conditions in Indonesia are definitely conducive to realizing them.

In recent years you have been involved in a number of eco-projects to raise public awareness of the problems the underwater environment is facing today. What inspired you to address this topic in photography?

As a photographer and diver, I have a deep sense of mission to document the surrounding reality. Often the ugly reality. To be honest, the first time I became aware of the problem of plastic pollution was when I arrived in Indonesia. It start-

ed with a stopover in China, where I saw one big garbage dump. I was shocked! Then I landed in Bali and was totally taken aback by the sheer volume of rubbish that was widely accepted. I didn't expect that such beautiful places could be drowning in rubbish. I have travelled a lot, but I have never seen such a waste problem. During my first sunset on an Indonesian beach, I couldn't focus on anything else but picking up trash. It hit me terribly. From that moment on I wanted to communicate this in some way. This is a very common problem in Asia. So, I thought: if I didn't have the faintest idea how my everyday little decisions can affect the environment (from food choices to cosmetics), then surely many people don't realise it either. So, I decided to raise awareness and I'm doing it my way – by photographing.

For several years now, I have been working with different organisations that are concerned with the environment or brands looking for alternative and ecological solutions. My two independent projects are "TRASHION", a photo shoot similar to fashion magazine collections. Here, however, the creations were made of rubbish caught during diving and beach cleaning on Gili Trawangan. The second project, much more shocking, is entitled "TRAPPED". It is a series of photographs of women – the personification of nature – who struggle, are trapped, suffocated, chained by rubbish (most often drifting in the sea or lying on the beaches) or sometimes unaware of the danger they are in. Nature has no voice and, although hurt, damaged, and suffocated by the plastic created by human hands, it allows us to admire its beauty every day. We live in a world of images, so with images it is good to speak if you have the opportunity. Through this and my other projects, I want to make people think about this problem, and environmental projects should shock a little to be remembered. After all, what we do always comes back to us, and by harming the environment we harm ourselves first and foremost.

What is Karola Takes Photos inspired by?

I am often inspired by the images I create in my head when reading fantasy books (my favourite author is Neil Gaiman, but I also like Lukyanenko, Sapkowski, Bulgakov and Orwell) – when the words invite you to other dimensions and worlds or are dangerously real. The underwater world is just such a parallel reality for me. Mysterious, different each time, surprising.

Sometimes I can also be inspired by a painting (as I said – Caspar David Friedrich, but also Wyspianski and the amazing Witkacy, whom I admire not only as a painter), a song, a texture, a building (Antoni Gaudi), a person, a situation, simply life.

While on Gili Trawangan, I started a project of a series of photographs from my dreams. Here I try to combine my underwater photography with unreal reality.

I often draw sketches when I think of something. Then it's easier for me to get into the details of how the picture should look. Some ideas turn out to be successful, others not, because in the real world they are completely different from what I had in my head, or they simply can't be realised at the moment.

In private, do you leave your camera to finally find yourself on the other side?

Haha (laughs) I usually have my camera with me. At any family or social gatherings, it's hard to step out of the photographer's

role ha ha! Because of this, my family and friends have a lot of photos from meetings where I seem not to be present (laughs). I don't have too many underwater photos where you can see me, but I'm very happy with each one. To be honest, I don't really feel confident in front of the camera. I've slowly started to get used to being on this other side for me, while shooting a Vlog or creating content on Instagram, but I still feel that my place is definitely behind the camera.

What would be your advice to budding underwater photographers?

First of all, to learn buoyancy. Not to damage the environment that surrounds them, but also to have control over their own body for safety. You don't have to start with extremely expensive equipment or the best camera on the market. I recommend patience, perseverance (laughs) and finding your own style rather than flat copying. And of course, practice, practice, and practice. Improve shots, compositions, and processing, and absorb knowledge from more experienced photographers. It may sound trivial but spend a lot of time underwater and learn from your mistakes.

A good trait for any photographer is to be hardworking, but

also confident. It's worth showing your photos even if they don't seem quite perfect. Experiment. Don't be afraid of criticism! (laughs)

Has social media like Instagram, where anyone can upload their own or re-post others' photos, changed the face of professional photography? It certainly has, but it has also provided a huge opportunity for self-promotion, to expose your own projects and to draw attention to yourself. On the other hand, many people don't realise the amount of work and experience behind every photo taken by a professional photographer. That's why it annoys me when I find my photos used by random profiles, organisations, companies, or apps where I wasn't tagged, or the was photo used without my knowledge or authorisation. Removing watermarks, cropping, or applying filters to photos by other people also frustrates me a lot, because there is often a long way of a photographer and a lot of work behind the colour of photos or the way they are edited. However, it's hard to protect yourself from this in the age of social media.

Future projects?

Oh my, I have lots of ideas constantly coming to my mind (laughs), but I am also definitely open to suggestions of collaboration with other photographers, because such collaborations are always an interesting experience. I will definitely be returning to the topic of photography workshops and exhibitions, which were in the plans before the pandemic. We are also preparing a joint project (with Laura Kazimierska – the interviewer), which will be quite loud, but for now I do not want to reveal anything.

Want to learn more and get to know Karola and her photography? You can find her projects on her YouTube under Karola Takes Photos or on her website: www.karolatakesphotos.com Also follow her on Instagram @Karolatakesphotos

UNDERWATER TREASURE WORLD'S LARGEST

Mother of all treasures. Treasure of all treasures.

Text Mateusz Popek, Szymon Mosakowski Photos Wikimedia Commons

When on Saturday morning, July 20, 1985, the divers Andy Matroci and Greg Wareham entered the water to check the stone reef, they did not expect what they would find.

They had been in Mel Fisher's team for several years, searching for the treasure of the leg-

endary Atocha. By this time they had already done hundreds of dives with no results. This made every day of exploration a routine, and the shapes of underwater objects ceased to stimulate their imagination. It was not the case this time. When the metal detector buzzed, they rolled a heavy bar. After a closer examination, they came to the conclusion that it was not an ordinary scrap metal they used to find every day. It must have been a while before they realised this. In front of them they had a bar of silver. When they looked around, they saw that they were standing on a mountain of silver.

However, let us go back more than 350 years to 1618, when in a shipyard in sunny Cuba the vessel Nuestra Señora de Atocha is created. The ship was built in Havana upon the order of the New Spain fleet. For the construction of the galleon, the boatmen used the highest quality mahogany, which was supplied to them from the neighbouring islands. This material was to be extremely durable, similar to oak wood, which was the main building material of European ships built at that time. At the time when the Atocha was created, the boatbuilding was based on the established principles, including the selection of materials used,

before that time the construction of all kinds of ships was a matter of a good eye of a builder. Nuestra Señora de Atocha was a powerful and admirable ship with a length of almost 32 m, a width of 9.5 m and a draught of about 4.5 m and a total weight of about 550 tons. The ship had a 3-mast propulsion system, which was very powerful; however, this ship did not stand out from other galleons at the time. Despite the rank of that ship and its purpose, the contractors made many changes during construction to save as much money as possible and at the same time gain time. Among other things, not many recommended materials were used in the construction. Wooden training devices and iron spikes should be used during the formwork of the decks and the outer shells of the hulls. The use of such a com-

bination gave the wood flexibility and rigidity. In the ship built in Havana, only iron spikes were used, which significantly contributed to the weakening of the hull, it became dangerously rigid. On the day of the launch, the Atocha had numerous traces of leaks, but repairing them would have significantly delayed her departure to open waters. Despite so many structural deficiencies, it was incorporated into the fleet.

Nuestra Señora de Atocha sailed from the port of Havana on 4 September 1622 with the entire so-called Silver Fleet of 28 ships on a return trip to Spain. The fleet set a course northbound on the Florida Keys, heading through the Florida Strait. The ship was loaded with a very valuable but heavy cargo, which exceeded its capabilities. There were more than

80 soldiers on board the Atocha and numerous nobles with their families, a total of about 265 people. According to the exact records, there were 901 silver barrels, 161 gold barrels and about a million silver coins and many other valuables in the cargo area, in addition to which the ship was heavily armed. The Atocha was situated behind the fleet. Two days after setting sail, the ships were already at the height of the Florida Strait, which was extremely dangerous in bad weather. On the same day in the evening, a mighty wind started, and it grew stronger as the night passed. It was during this storm that Nuestra Señora de Atocha and eight other ships sank. They all crashed and sank on reefs near the Florida Keys. Only five people survived the galleon crash, including the ship's captain.

For the next few years after the sinking, Spanish sailors tried to locate and recover the valuable sunken cargo. Only a few hundred bars of silver, a few cannons and about 65 thousand silver coins were recovered, which is a small amount compared to the entire load. After numerous failures, the rescue attempts of the treasure from this ship were stopped and it became a part of the ocean floor for another 350 years, until the expedition undertaken by one of the most famous treasure hunters.

It's not entirely clear why Mel Fisher decided to go after the Atocha. It is also not entirely clear how he got the information from the archives, which contained the approximate place of sinking of the ship. It is known, however, that this former chicken farmer in 1969 moved to the vicinity of Key West in Florida with a strong determination to find the wreck, which he believed hid a giant treasure.

To do this, he invested all his wealth and persuaded his family and some of his friends to do so. They founded a company that was aimed at finding and extracting the treasure. It involved the employment of divers and the pur-

chase of boats. Fortunately, the atmosphere of the search meant that many young people wanted to participate in the expedition even for a very modest remuneration.

After more than a year of searching, the team came across the first silver bars. Unfortunately, the seekers have come to the conclusion that it cannot be the Atocha because their number was too small. They quickly concluded that it was the Santa Margarita unit, from the same fleet that sank with the Atocha. However, the excavated ore allowed for further financing of the exploration, and the first glow of valuables attracted new divers.

Another success came five years later when Fisher's team found silver bars again, but also gold valuables. This time they came to the conclusion that they had found the Atocha's treasure. However, again, in Mel's opinion, this was definitely not enough. But the whole team was convinced that they were just a step away from success. The company bought new boats, magnetometer and sonar, and there were also other investors. When they mined valuables, they did not yet know how wrong they were.

The search lasted days, then weeks, and finally months. All the seekers already felt that they were very close, but the treasure was still slipping out of their hands. Thousands of hours spent underwater, hectares of searched land and nothing. Fisher's frustration was

heightened by legal issues. The state of Florida claimed ownership of the treasure as lying in its territorial waters. The legal battle was to last for years. However, in 1975, a greater tragedy than the loss of mined valuables befell Mel Fisher. While working at sea, one of the searchers' boats sinks, taking with it the son of the seeker Dirks and his wife Angel, and the diver Rick Gage. This terrible tragedy, however, did not stop the work of finding the Atocha's treasure.

Years passed, and the main wreckage was still missing. The searchers wandered and guessed randomly, selecting more places to check. The situation began to change when Mel hired a marine archaeologist to join the team. Duncan Mathewson showed the team how to read the traces they find under-

water. This accelerated the work, but the wreck made it wait a little longer.

On July 20, when Andy and Greg jumped out of the water announcing success, no one knew where Mel was. He wasn't in the office, he wasn't at home, he couldn't be told about success. His wife came up with the idea to call the radio and tell Fisher wherever he was that the wreckage had been found. When the news sounded from the speakers, Mel was shopping in the store.

A multi-week operation to extract the treasure began. More than 40 tons of silver and gold were mined (including 115,000 coins and 1,000 silver bars), and 32 kilograms of emeralds. Legal problems have also ended. The settlement ordered Fisher to give up 25% of the treasure to the state of Florida. All investors were repaid and each of them earned a considerable amount. Mel Fisher, who is unquestionably considered the greatest treasure hunter, died in 1998. His discovery was entered in 2014 in the Guinness Book of Records as the richest wreck ever found.

However, this is not the end of the story. According to Fisher, the entire wreckage has still not been found, and the search continues. For years, every year the search has been ongoing, and volunteers from all over the world can join the team.

as the only ones in Poland, finished with the certified Polygiene® technology, against the growth of bacteria and unpleasant odors

UNUSUAL GUESTS

Text Agata Turowicz-Cybula Photos Jakub Banasiak

DUE TO ITS LOCATION, HISTORY AND RELATIVELY YOUNG AGE, THE BALTIC SEA DOES NOT HAVE A VERY DIVERSE FLORA AND FAUNA.

Of course, you will find representatives of many groups of plants and animals, but they are usually small and often hard to see among the Baltic sand or stones. Therefore, a very big event is, when our sea is visited by guests from other basins.

Most often, unusual representatives of the marine animal world appear in the Baltic Sea... by accident. Leaving to the Danish Straits, for some reason they lose their way back and instead of returning to the North Sea they swim straight into the Baltic. Unfortunately, the vast majority of them never return to their natural environment.

Particularly interesting to everyone are visits by large animals such as dolphins and whales. In recent years, it has become increasingly common to see representatives of both these groups

not only in the northern part of the Baltic Sea, but also off the Polish coast. To the dolphin's guest list, we can count the common dolphin, the white-beaked dolphin, and also the divers' favourite –the bottlenose dolphin. Of course, you have to be very lucky to spot this mammal jumping out of the waves, but it is worth staring closely at the surface of the water, because maybe you will be among the lucky ones.

Meeting a whale in Poland may not be so pleasant, but it is nonetheless exciting. Unfortunately, these animals

Common dolphins

are usually found dead by the shore or on the beach. This is mostly because they do not have an adequate food base in the Baltic Sea and they simply starve to death, while the sea waves throw them ashore. So far, northern bottlenose whale and fin whale have been found on Polish beaches, which, by the way, is the second largest animal living on Earth after the blue whale. Of course, there are also sightings of live cetaceans in our sea. However, the chance of such encounter is smaller than in the case of dolphins. Due to the size and lifestyle of these animals, they are usually seen by fishermen, in deep waters far from the shore.

Not only mammals come to visit the Baltic Sea. It also happens that large fish appear in our sea. Not so long ago, fishermen off the coast of Świnoujście, in the course of pikeperch fishing,

pulled out of their nets a swordfish measuring almost 2.5 metres. A few years later, another representative of this species was found by tourists on

the beach in Stegna. As in the case of whales, the Baltic Sea does not have an appropriate food base, which would allow them to successfully stay with us longer. The appearance of an exotic fish in the Baltic Sea was quite a surprise, namely the ocean sunfish, known to divers from the Red Sea as the Mola mola. Found in fishing nets, it was released into the wild, but shortly after it was found dead again. Like other such cases, it ended up in the hands of scientists, who were able to investigate the causes of its death and gain a better understanding of its physiology.

Apart from large individuals, there are also much smaller guests in the Baltic Sea. Together with cold, well-oxygenated water from the North Sea, characteristic plankton organisms enter the Baltic Sea. It is thanks to them that scientists can learn about the appearance of the so-called inflow into the Baltic Sea and can assess how far it has reached.

Sometimes, however, some guests stay longer with us. A great example is the fish called round goby, which came to us with the ballast water of ships, and since the 1990s has been doing very well in the Baltic Sea, successfully inhabiting the entire Polish coastline.

Common dolphins

Fin whale

White-beaked dolphin

Screechy REED SINGERS

Text and photos Wojciech Jarosz

The song of great weed warblers seems beautiful to one, while for others it is a tiring streak of grinds, crunches and crackles. It is impossible not to hear it and ignore it, because it is loud and dominates over the voices of other residents of the rushes.

We can hear great reed warblers very often over the water, but we can see them more seldom. So I will try to interest you, Dear Reader, in this species, so that you have a reason to look for great reed warblers during your next stay at a lake or pond, where you can find them in the reeds.

Thus, we perform another “dive into the reeds” on the pages of Perfect Diver. The time has come for the largest repre-

sentative of the reed birds: the great reed warbler (this is the same family to which the sedge warbler described in the issue 19 belongs). It is also called "drozdówka" (similar to the thrush bird), because it is the largest of the reed birds and it is similar in size to small thrushes. The text begins with a mention of the singing of the great reed warbler – I will now develop this topic a bit. They sing, of course, the males do it. Their songs, which in spring and summer are the most characteristic acoustic decoration of coastal reed beds, are directed to females to interest them in themselves for matrimonial and procreative purposes. Life is easier for males who sing the most beautifully (the most beautifully in the opinion of the female part of the population), although it would probably be more appropriate to say that they sing in the most attractive or sensual way. Strong and alluring singing comes from the throats of strong males, which, being in excellent shape, encourage ladies to breed together. Studies show that males prepare for these vocal performances from the cradle, that is, “from the nest”, well... from the nestling times. Researchers have found that the young which are better fed become better singers in the future by learning the trade from their fathers in their youth, getting

acquainted with the phrase and melody characteristic of the genre. One of the classics of the Polish ornithology, professor Jak Sokołowski in "Birds of the Polish Lands" wrote the syllables of the specific reed song in this way: "ryba ryba ryba, rak rak rak, świerzbi świerzbi świerzbi, drap drap drap, stary stary stary, kit kit kit" (it means: "fish fish fish, crayfish crayfish crayfish, itches, itches, itches, scratch, scratch, scratch, old old old, putty, putty, putty") – in my opinion, this transcription reflects the great weed warblers’ song quite well.

Why should better fed young sing better? Because mastering and preparing a good repertoire requires a lot of energy and time. Energy for the development of appropriate areas of the brain responsible for learning to sing, and time, because every learning requires time. Young animals that live in conditions of greater stress and are worse at getting food do not have the comfort of devoting time and resources to learn how to sing to the same extent that the birds growing up in more friendly circumstances. This is why females listen so much to the singing of males in order to choose a provider of the best genes for their offspring. Great reed warblers have two types of songs in their repertoire, or rather two versions of it – long

and short. The long song is used by bachelors to shine in front of maidens. So it is used by unpaired males, mainly at the time of arrival of females. The shorter version, on the other hand, is a signal to the surrounding males (the rivals) communicating that the territory from which it comes is occupied.

Interestingly, the quality of the song correlates with the quality of the occupied territory – another reason why females

evaluate the song of a potential partner before deciding to "marry". Those males who, as stronger ones, will fly faster from sub-Saharan wintering grounds will occupy better territories –and so the circle closes. In this context, it is also interesting that females who arrive later at the breeding grounds have a tough nut to crack. They have to decide whether to be the first lady for a weaker male, which other females have not chosen, or to become number two and create a brood with a strong, but already paired male. It should be added that the leading role here is played by the quality of the territory, which, according to the female, may be too weak, in the case of the free male, compared to the territory of the already paired male.

In great reed warblers, there is a mixed approach to monogamy – some couples do indeed follow this path, but some males cultivate polygyny, i.e. this variety of polygamy, when they "serve" two or more females at the same time (ecologists call this optional polygyny – not always occurring). In the thicket of reeds and with poor visibility, the female may not realise that her chosen one was not only chosen by her. Explaining the behaviour of females occupying the position number two in a bird relationship (in fact, a kind of triangle is formed, so maybe the number three would be more appropriate?) the hypothesis of a "sexy son" was put forward. According to it, the female, by providing her male descendants with the opportunity to inherit polygynous behaviour from her father, would increase the chances of passing on and spreading her genes in the population in the long run, since her sons will fertilise

a larger number of females. However, the matter is not quite simple, because there is often a greater mortality of chicks due to insufficient food in the nests of females with the status of "number two". Besides, males also pay a price for more extensive contacts with females. Ornithologists have noticed that the amount of parasites in such males can be higher than in those that have contact with only one female. As the folk saying says, also in this case the stick has two ends.

Male great reed warblers do not engage excessively in the care of the brood (especially the second one), but are able to take care of safety when such a need arises. They use alarm voices, although they do not always are eager to use them. This is because they do not want to reveal the location of the nest. For the same reason, some individuals react less well to the threat and, for example, do not take part in chasing away the cuckoo. But sometimes they can get their act together and chase away a cuckoo, whose nefarious plans to toss eggs often target these birds. The great weed warblers can even hurt them a bit harder. One of the Hungarian ornithologists reported many years ago that he observed such a massive and effective attack of great weed warblers on a cuckoo that finally it got drowned. And again, not all individuals join the armed action against the invader, because during such mobbing activities (this is not a mistake – this is the name used in ecology) the nest remains unguarded, and this can be used by predators or others ... cuckoos. These brood parasites resort to various means to achieve the goal. It has been proven

One of the Hungarian ornithologists reported many years ago that he observed such a massive and effective attack of great weed warblers on a cuckoo that finally it got drowned.

that they can produce different types of eggs, so that these most closely resemble those that are already present in the nest of the selected foster parents for the cuckoo baby bird. By now several types of eggs have already been described! Research on the inheritance of the ability to mimicry (making own eggs similar to the eggs of a selected host in this case) and participation in this process of both sexes brings extremely interesting discoveries – perhaps one day there will be an opportunity to expand on this a bit more. Mimicry can be better or worse, so great reed warblers sometimes effectively recognise another bird's eggs and get rid of them from the nest. Some sources report that in about 30 percent of cases they reject cuckoo eggs, but this percentage decreases as the time of hatching of young great reed warblers approaches. This is because if the chicks hatch in front of the cuckoo, their survival is not threatened, as is the opposite case. When the cuckoo hatches first, it itself gets rid of the eggs of the hosts from the nest. Such silent dramas take place in beautiful, basket-shaped nests woven by the female on the stems of reeds sticking out from the water.

Look on the Internet for the singing of a great reed warbler and when one day you hear (and you will definitely hear!) this song by the lake and you would like to see the singer, wait a moment or two in stillness. Great weed warblers have a small escape distance and, as a rule, when singing, climb higher and higher on the reeds, and sometimes even they sit on higher shrubs or trees. Good luck with your overwater observations!

MANOMETERS

Text Wojciech A. Filip

PS:

Did you know that while opening the tank valve you shouldn’t turn the manometer face (glass) down?

If there is 30 bar left in the tank, is there actually 30 bar?

What is a manometer accuracy class?

But in the very beginning!?

For those who do not like to read as much, I prepared a special summary.

You’ll find it at the end of the article.

Every manometer comes with some kind of scale (graduation) and information about the units of the manometer readings. Diving manometers are scaled in bars or PSI (a British measurement scale that uses higher numerical values, as 1 PSI=0.07 bar). We can also come across double scale manometers.

Photo Tomasz Płociński

Divers assume that if the manometer shows that there is 150 bar left in the tank, there is actually 150 bar left. Our manometer readings are often treated as the key factor when planning dives, where the calculation of the amount of gas at our disposal is necessary.

The manometer accuracy class tells us how large a discrepancy between the manometer readings and actual pressure value we can expect. The accuracy class indicates an acceptable percentage error. A manometer’s accuracy class concerns its measurement range.

In Europe we have seven accuracy classes marked as CL (KL in Polish manometers) plus numbers from 0.1 through 0.25, 0.6, 1.0, 1.6, from 2.5 to 4.0, denoting the class. American standards also have a 5.0 accuracy class.

WHAT’S THE MEANING OF AN ACCURACY CLASS?

If the manometer is marked as CL 1.0, so it has an accuracy class of 1 (one), and its measurement range is, for instance, 300 bar, the manometer’s readings can differ from actual pressure by 1% of 300 bar up or down. It means that when such a manometer shows, lets say, 100 bar, the actual pressure may vary between 97 to 103 bar.

The same manometer with an accuracy class CL 4,0 and with the same 100 bar pressure has the acceptable error at 12 bar, so the actual pressure in the tank may be between 88 to 112 bar.

How accurate diving manometers are?

They do not come with a class marked, which means that the effective measurement can be burdened with an error of more than 4% or even 5%.

In the example above, the manometer with a 7% measurement error would show 100 bar, while the actual pressure value could be between 79 and 121 bar.

Photo Bartek Trzciński

Photo Bartek Trzciński

DO DIVING MANOMETERS GET WORN?

Yes, usually its due to the fact that it’s nice to have just a little more gas in the tank If the manometer is scaled for 200 bar and its actual work range is 200 bar (you can check it on the manufacturer’s sticker on the back side of the manometer head), it would work best if we used 75–80% of its measurement range. However, divers are happiest when there is well over 200 bar in the tank. A manometer working outside its range gets damaged – for example it can turn out that at lower pressures the hand gets stuck indicating a higher value than the actual pressure in the tank. Thus its poor accuracy becomes even poorer. If we worsen it just by a little bit, to 10% for instance, the difference between the 300 bar range manometer readings and reality will reach 30 bar. This means that a 30 bar manometer reading may mean 0 (zero) bar in the tank!

The common mistake to make is thinking the manometer scale is also its measurement range. The popular graduation up to 300 bar used in manometers that work with a lower pressure mostly lets you easily identify “half the tank left” status, which is facilitated by marking 100 bar in the middle of the manometer – at the same time these manometers usually work at a range slightly over 200 bar.

Check the actual working pressure of your manometer.

It is easy to reach the conclusion, that our manometers

should be treated as estimate gauge of how much gas we have, not precise measurement devices.

Manometer accuracy class is really important when it comes to servicing diving equipment.

The common mistake to make is thinking the manometer scale is also its measurement range. The popular graduation up to 300 bar used in manometers that work with a lower pressure mostly lets you easily identify “half the tank left” status, which is facilitated by marking 100 bar in the middle of the manometer – at the same time these manometers usually work at a range slightly over 200 bar.

Check the actual working pressure of your manometer on its “nameplate” that is the sticker on the back side of the device.

Ask your service staff what manometer accuracy class they use when they service your diving regulators. The class should not be lower than 2,5 if the manometer’s scale finishes at 16 bar.

Photo Tomasz Płociński

Small manometers without an accuracy class marked are mostly used by the service staff to see if the pressure is rising or falling and should not be used for diving regulator calibration. For diagnostic purposes, large face manometers with a clear graduation are best.

IMPORTANT mano FACTS

Manometers feel best at 75% of their maximum working range. If they can work safely at higher pressures (for example reaching the top of the scale), there is an arrowhead or triangle mark at the position of the maximum allowable pressure.

Manometers flooded with oil are secured against damage and provide accurate readings when the device they work on generates vibration or the pressure value changes dynamically over a short time – such manometers are typically found in compressors.

Manometers with a so called stop pin (a pin on which the hand should rest at 0/zero) work properly within 10–100% of their range, while the ones without it within 0–100%.

´ How to test the accuracy of the diving manometer readings?

´ When to use an electronic manometer?

´ Are there diving manometers with an accuracy class?

´ What does an upside down “T” on the manometer graduation mean?

I’d like to invite you all to visit Tecline Academy – all the matters related to manometers are discussed there in detail in service staff training, but also at seminars for divers who want to know their gear better.

P.S

Did you know that while opening the tank valve you shouldn’t turn the manometer face down?

This is unsafe, because every manometer has a failsafe

While turning the tank valve open, you should be looking at the manometer, not turn it face down. Make sure you do this and learn why turning it face down can be dangerous

Reading this will take you a little over a minute.

Have you noticed that technical divers never turn the manometer face down, while turning the tank open, while recreational divers do this almost every time ?

Advanced divers also make sure that there is a special hole in the back of the manometer cover – you will learn why below.

Very, I mean VERY old manometers did not come fitted with the failsafe – if they lost integrity, the glass used back then, which was not tempered, could break. It was well over thirty years ago.

Photo Bartek Trzciński

All manometers used today come with a system that prevents the glass “explosion.” It’s a small rubber failsafe, pressed into the manometer back cover (looks like a black dot). If the pressure rise that occurs inside the manometer due to damage, the failsafe “pops out” to prevent the glass from breaking. There will be gas coming out the back side of the manometer through a small hole.

Look at your consoles or manometer housings. They have a small hole in the back wall that houses the failsafe. If you

want to feel safe when opening the tank valve, position the manometer with the failsafe facing down.

PPS.

Just hold on a moment... ... there are manometers with a plastic face – they don’t have a failsafe!?

See you at the Academy! 

https://teclinediving.eu/tecline-academy/#/

Photo Bartek Trzciński