PETER, TOM & DAVE. // issue#07

ISSUE#07

issue#07 August 2011 Buenos Aires, Argentina.

staff.

LUCAS CASTRO PARDO // editor in chief. (lucas@petertomdave.com) MAJO QUAGLIA // assistant to the editor. (majo@petertomdave.com) ROB ANNONI // gd. (rob@petertomdave.com)

special thanks to.

Alex Ceball, Camila Milessi, Caro Teitelbaum, Cecilia Austin, Cecilie Harris, Emiliano Blanco, Fab Li, Gareth Rhys, German Herlein, Holger Homann, Javier Torres Jorge Aragรณn, Krysthopher Woods, Lorenzo Marcucci Pablo Solano, Pauli Palese, Paz Sรกnchez Saravia, Polar Buranasatit, Riccardo Slavik, Sean P. Watters, Sebastiรกn Sastre, Syed Munawir, Vivian Pardo, Wyatt Hough.

cover #07. photographer: Cecile Harris model: Scott Sanders (Select)

Peter, Tom & Dave is published by Lucas Castro Pardo. You may not reproduce content without citing the source. The publisher is not responsible for the opinions expressed by contributors, interviewed, notes and content of the advertisements that are included in this edition. The intellectual property registration is in process.

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INTRO.

It is a magazine that focuses on male photography, where fashion and arts are combined through the participation and collaboration of artists worldwide. The Peter, Tom & Dave team want to invite you to explore the diverse and high quality work we have put together for you. Enjoy!

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by SEBASTIÁN SASTRE

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INDEX

SEBASTIÁN SASTRE. 04

MORNINGSIDE PARK .

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A ROOM WITH A VIEW. 22

ATTEMPTIN HEROISM. 36

ALASKA. 50

DETENTION BUDDIES. 58

LONDINIUM. 68

KRYSTOPHER WOOD. 76

KELLE CALCO & THE COLORED BOYS. 78

THE LEGEND OF THE SWISS DRAGON. 84

LI.TORRES. 94

CHOCKERBOY. 103

WILL DRIVE THEM AWAY. 104

SUNDAY NOON ROCKETS. 116

NOT A SOLDIER. 126

SUPERPREDATOR. 136

THE BOYS IN BLUE. 144

www.petertomdave.com

MORNING 08

GSIDE PARK. photographer SEAN P. WATTERS stylist DEBORAH GINYARD model LUCA VIGORELLI @ DNA make-up GREGG HUBBARD hair KANAKO WATANBE

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sweater PERRY ELLIS pants PIERRE HENRI MATTOUT

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peacoat PERRY ELLIS boots DOC MARTENS turtleneck GANT pants TOPMAN

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suit & vest COPPERWHEAT

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sweater COPPERWHEAT pants CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION boots DOC MARTENS

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tux pants PIERRE HENRI MATTOUT shirt COPPERWHEAT

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blazer PERRY ELLIS tux pants PIERRE HENRI MATTOUT

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suede jacket PERRY ELLIS collared dress shirt BUCKLER

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A ROOM WITH A VIEW. photographer HOLGER HOMANN model DAN @ IZAIO models

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photograper CECILIE HARRIS stylist DAVID BARTLETT model SCOTT SANDERS Select grooming NINA ROBINSON assistant MAXIMILIEN LETEK

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jacket JONATHAN JEPSON jeans DR. DENIM

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jacket JONATHAN JEPSON jeans DR. DENIM 38

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jacket JONATHAN JEPSON shorts CUSTOMIZED G STAR

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t-shirt COS trousers JONATHAN JEPSON

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t-shirt COS trousers JONATHAN JEPSON

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trousers JONATHAN JEPSON cummerbund GIEVES AND HAWKES gloves EXPECTATIONS

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top customized AMERICAN APPAREL jeans & boots DR. DENIM

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ALASKA.

photographer SYED MUNAWIR stylist ANDREA DE SAINT ANDRIEU model EDNOND ROOSENDAAL Major Paris

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sweater VERSACE hat ADRENALINE

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sweaters UNGARO hat ADRENALINE

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cape & apron ADRENALINE sweater & pants SCHERRER jacket HELMUT LANG shirt BANANA REPUBLIC boots AIGLE

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suit SCHERRER shirt & coat UNGARO fur ADRENALINE 56

sweaters (dark grey & light grey) UNGARO (light grey) SMALTO SPORT (dark grey) UNGARO blue LACOSTE pants SCHERRER boots AIGLE fur ADRENALINE

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DETENTION BUDDIES. photographer JON MALINOWSKI styling & creative direction POLAR BURANASATIT models LEWIS VALLEAU & LOUIS MAYHEW (Red)

(Lewis) sweater H&M shirt & pants GANT RUGGER rugger, tie & belt KIEL JAMES PATRICK socks CLUB MONACO shoes TOPMAN (Louis) polo shirt GANT RUGGER denim shorts LEVI’S bundle key chain POSSIBLE bracelets BURKMAN BROS sneakers CONVERSE 59

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(Lewis) blazer & shirt GANT RUGGER tie KIEL JAMES PATRICK pants DOCKERS suede backpack TOPMAN (Louis) tank top BURKMAN BROS overall EDUN bandana WHO.A.U

(Lewis) blazer & shirt GANT tie KIEL JAMES PATRICK pants DOCKERS suede backpack TOPMAN (Louis) tank top BURKMAN BROS overall EDUN bandana WHO.A.U

(Lewis) blazer EDUN shirtby GANT RUGGER tie TOPMAN bag brooch POSSIBLE belt KIEL JAMES PATRICK pants DOCKERS shoes M:ZERO (Louis) shirt GANT RUGGER football patches WHO.A.U jeans LEVI’S belt TOPMAN boots ALDO

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(Louis) jacket LEVI’S patches WHO.A.U pants EDUN (Lewis) shirt & shorts GANT RUGGER tie KIEL JAMES PATRICK belt TOPMAN socks CLUB MONACO

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(Lewis) polo shirt GANT RUGGER shorts LEVI’S (Louis) tie C. CHAUCHAT x BLIND BARBER t-shirt GANT RUGGER pants DOCKERS

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(Lewis) shirt GANT RUGGER tie KIEL JAMES PATRICK pants DOCKERS (Louis) jacket TOPMAN t-shirt GANT RUGGER jeans LEVI’S bandana WHO.A.U

(Lewis) packable nylon anorak, t-shirt &shorts TOPMAN sneakers CONVERSE (Louis) t-shirt, jock straps & shorts NASTY PIG socks CLUB MONACO sneakers H&M

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(Louis) shirt GANT RUGGER tie KIEL JAMES PATRICK pants DOCKERS (Lewis) bandana WHO.A.U jacket TOPMAN t-shirt GANT RUGGER jeans LEVI’S 67

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LONDINIUM. photographer GARETH RHYS model SAM RIGBY @ Bookings Models, London make-up & grooming NAMIKO TAKEMIYA

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by KRYSTOPHER WOODS

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KELLE CALCO & THE COLORED BOYS. INTERVIEW WITH KELLE CALCO OF THE COLORED BOYS by PAULI PALESE. Kelle Calco & The Colored Boys, a New York band that offers a new classic rock and roll.

MYSPACE.COM/KELLECALCO

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INTERVIEW WITH KELLE CALCO.

by PAULI PALESE. - What are your main influences?

- I look at everything as if the modern world didn't exist, as if we were still animals in the jungle. What I see from that viewpoint profoundly influences me. Of course, Classic Rock & Roll, gotta have that feel. Being out there every night in Manhattan with my good friend DJ Ian El Dorado and our favorite bar, St. Jerome's. There's so much vibe and so many stories to tell. Sex and romance, all those affairs of the heart that I don't mind getting wrapped up in. Keeping focused on The Light during these peculiar times.

together with the Club Calco parties and I've seen a lot of matches made in heaven come of that. The main thing is that the energy is still in the air here in New York and it certainly is.

- So you are working on a record, what are you expectations.

- We're gonna take it song by song until it's just right. Hopefully in the end, we'll have a classic.

- Do you see yourselves travelling around the world? Is there somewhere in particular that you'd like to go?

- I've played a lot of little games with myself through life. One of them was to not let myself leave the country until it was for my band. So I'm looking forward to finally seeing Italy. I'm Italian and love Italian women. Makes sense.

- As regards song writing, what inspires you? What do you want to say with your lyrics?

- My excursion into art school left me in a burnt out identity crisis and tangled in a web of irony and self-consciousness. All of my real life experience since then has taught me that I'm a pretty simple and sincere person after all who is perfectly comfortable just telling it like it is. So I'm still trying to strip away the layers of confusion and reach that pure self in everything including my writing. With the way I work, I don't set about to write about something in particular, it just happens on its own, sometimes in my sleep.

- There's something unique to your style, how would you describe it?

- I think my style tells the story of a free spirited rock & roll gentleman with a touch of romance.

- What's Kelle Calco & The Colored Boys dream?

- Livin for the music man! Everyday! Let us have it!

- How would you portray the feeling of playing live?

- It's like electrifying the soul. Turn that puppy on and let her burn bright once and for all. I used to let it all out on the dancefloor but now I save it all for the stage baby.

- What would you be doing if you weren't musicians?

- Hopefully painting or playing with clothes but I'd still be DJing!

- Define today's New York Rock 'n Roll scene.

- To that, I'd have to say, which one? It's rather divided and scattered. There are quite a few great Rock & Roll bands here in the city though. We're always trying to pull folks

- A book, a movie and a record that you could reccomend us.

I don't get into books or movies so I'll give you three records: Starz - Violation / Rod Stewart - Atlantic Crossing / Jacobites Robespierre's Velvet Basement.

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photos by DAVID CARLO

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THE LEGEND OF THE SWISS DRAGON.

by GERMÁN HERLEIN.

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THE LEGEND OF THE SWISS DRAGON.

from where I was living. It had no more than ten big ancient houses hidden between the mountains and luckily for us that they where celebrating a traditional holiday so we got to see how Swiss people lived a hundred years ago, with costumes, folk Swiss music and traditional food. An incredible mood was set, we felt like we

by GERMÁN HERLEIN. Returning to Switzerland was amazing. Again I stayed outsider Z rich, on Wetswill-Bonstetten's peaceful neighborhood, one of those places that you have no idea that has so much until you get there.

Returning to the present, after a two hour journey, I visited the Swiss community of Interlaken which is between the lakes Thun and Brienz and at the foot of the famous peaks Eiger, Mˆnch and

Aum Li, an old community from Zˆrich canton, was just a short walk away 86

Jungfrau. The whole view took my breath away.

Lake and the water started to boil.

Meanwhile beholden by the Thun lake through the window of the sun terrace cliff, with numerous cascades the dragon run down, made me travel back to my childhood listening with my eyes wide open this astonishing fables.

On Beatenberg (Bern), a small town in the hills above Interlaken, I visited the St. Beatus-Hˆhlen Caves, tucked into the cliffs of the Thun Lake. I’ve reached the mystical side of my trip when I got to know that the caves were named after St. Beatus, who is said to have defeated a deadly dragon that lived there. Beatus was firm and struggled against the dragon and conjured him in the name of the holy trinity. In his anger the dragon run down the rock cliff into the Thun

The legend and the landscapes embraceable a myth story of last living dragon in Switzerland.

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LI.TORRES INTERVIEW BY ALEX CEBALL.

Fabian [Li] and Javier [Torres] are the typical [and not many] cases of creators that dissatisfied with what they see around them or with their own imagination set a goal, working furiously day and night to make it known against all odds. And simply they cause a great impact.

LI.TORRES, the firm founded by two alumni from Universidad de la Empresa, is a living example of this, and it is not at random. With its presence in New York and about to arrive in Berlin, from its headquarters in Buenos Aires they are still working to become, in record time, in one of the best known Argentine companies in the local scene and internationally. Of strong academic, technical and artistic perceptions, they talk about their latest project, fashion, arts, and more. For this reason, they have slowly become in one of the best ambassadors of the fashion from the end of the world. Let’s know about them and we will see why.

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INTERVIEW WITH LI.TORRES.

by ALEX CEBALL. Alex - Fabian, Javier. Hello, how are you? [both] - Fine. Here we are. Very happy! And very excited! (Smile).

- How was the presentation of your collection in cooperation with Céntrico? Were you too nervous?

F - The partnership launch exceeded our expectations and we were very happy for that. After so much work and effort, the fact that the final product is received in this way makes us proud and gives us energy to move forward with this project. And we were nervous, especially at the moment of the presentation. For both brands, it was the first time we carried out an alliance of this type.

- Tell us how this idea of collaboration arose, with all the gory details [Laughs] J - The alliance came about because we knew Leonardo Mancuso, designer and owner of Céntrico. Then we and a group of independent designers were interested in putting together a Pop-Up Store. There, we showed him our work and he suggested we should merge to create a first collection together. With reference to the assembly of the mini collection, we felt we got on well with Céntrico. The fact that we share many reference points and the same aesthetics helped us a lot when we proposed ideas. I remember one of our first meetings when we had to bring ideas, references, images, etc., we had many things in common and even the same photos! [Laughs].

- What particularly distinguishes these pieces of clothing and accessories?

F - The pieces are characterized by a craft and meticulous work, in which the kind of fabric of each item is relevant. The materials are the symbol of both brands; they are [continues on page 98] 96

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who are emerging slowly. It is an independent brand that it is shown itself, as many others, trying to impose its own style.

always fine, of good quality and with processes that improve the designs. Wornout appearance is a keyword in this collaboration. Goat and Nappa leather, Velour, Cheviot and Flannel are the predominant fabrics. Footwear is all made of leather.

- Let’s talk about clothes. Tell us about the pattern design. I know it is utilitarian and also the use of the same item is multiplied.

J - We seek more than one pattern design to combine them up to the point of not fully identify them. And as for utilitarian, the clothes we design have different moments of action; the morphology is transformed generating different shapes, without leaving aside comfort and functionality.

- You have recently started your own brand and it is making too much noise. How do you carry this process?

J - We try to enjoy it as much as possible; it took us completely by surprise. When we started this project, our commercial objective was to become known, but we never imagined that we would manage to have such spreading. Social networks are an essential tool for this. The following day after we uploaded our first garments, we already had people from all over the world asking for us.

- What kind of fabrics do you use and why?

F - The fabrics used are linen, Velour, Cheviot, Voile, rustic fabric with Lycra, Pima cotton, goat leather, etc. We like and use these materials because they are top-quality and can be handled very easily for the design. We also like to use traditional methods, such as worn-out look, rubber print and other processes.

- With reference to sales, are they successful? Did you get what you expected?

F - We are happy about that. We are doing well at the local level, and as for the international sphere we are about to close a contract with a showroom in Berlin to continue growing in different markets.

- Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Junta Watanabe and Comme des Garçon, among others, are some of your references. What do you take from these Eastern artists in your own creations?

F - We like the way they communicate the brand image, their obsession for detail and their search for materials to make each garment.

- At the same time you were "presented in society" by THE NEW YORK MAGAZINE, one of the standard trend publications in the Big Apple. How did you receive that?

F - In the best way, when we see our clothes published in this journal we encourage one another and immediately we are thinking about what lies ahead.

- How did you know each other?

J - We met in 2004, at University (Universidad de la Empresa), where we attended the course Fashion and Textile Design. We also worked for an Argentinean company called Juana de Arco. Working there, we realized that we had the possibility to start working on our own, putting in practice all we had been trained as designers at college.

Just at that moment we decided to join forces and create something new, taking the risk to do what we really wanted and not following the market tendencies.

- Why did you decide to create Li.Torres?

J - Because we saw a possibility, wishes were always present; all we needed was time to fulfill them. There were doubts from the beginning, but as we go along, we are increasingly convinced of what we are doing.

- How do you think you are received locally in Argentina?

F - I think LI.TORRES is perceived as a brand of a new generation of fashion designers

- What are the biggest challenges you have [continues on page 101] 98

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- Not many years ago, linking art and fashion was something almost unthinkable.

Today, that boundary line has almost faded and designers are becoming vital parts in the calendars of the world's great museums, what do you believe the reason is?

J - I think this is because the concepts these designers are based on have a great spirit.

They manage to communicate something so consistent that the garment is no longer functional to become an “art-object�. This concept is fundamental to us because from that point a collection begins to have meaning.

- What are the biggest challenges you have faced as owners of an independent firm?

This is not the best moment.

F - One of our greatest difficulties is in the sewing room, where no one is used to making clothes from so complex pattern making. It is hard to find people who can understand the level we want to achieve without neglecting finish details.

- Who are your references from the viewpoint of visual arts?

F - Shigeo Fukuda is a great artist and we consider him as one of our main references.

The artist Orlan attracted us a lot, especially the work in which she used her body as a means of expression. The director Lars Von Trier and the architect Zaha Hadid are also a source of inspiration.

- Why do you mix tailoring with sportswear?

F - The idea of mixing classic tailoring with sportswear as a working method is interesting, as we can change or break down the model and give a more casual touch to the garments, but in turn, they have the rates of classic tailoring.

- Do you consider that your country is open to proposals such as yours? What do you think about it?

J - The local market still needs to encourage people to break with established codes, but nevertheless we believe that little by little people are breaking them at the moment of deciding what to wear, meanwhile we go on proposing new ideas. Change is never radical; it is collective unconscious which sets the standard.

- Why is your first collection a shift to darkness?

F: the collection of the alliance with CĂŠntrico is focused on the study of the visual image, which we wanted to communicate from sportswear to performance. We were not inspired by a concept but, in this first instance, we concentrated on the object rather than the purpose.

- What do you need for your professionalism?

F - I believe that the most important thing to become a professional is to learn from the experience you get as the collections are finished. This medium has a very high rate and that is something that even you are told in detail about it, you have to experience it to realize that it requires great dedication. I think the most important point is to solve arising conflicts by keeping your goals without being influenced by THE BIG WAVE.

- What is for you the ideal pattern?

J - We do not think there is an ideal pattern.

We work a lot with organic forms, we like the asymmetrical outlines, the combination of lines, overlapping layers of clothes, etc.

We take starting points at the moment of generating lines; we use operational use as references. We are also attracted by volume and the way it contributes in the silhouettes.

- And the texture?

F - In texture, we like craft worn-out, rubber print and also more abstract patterns. We always communicate the same idea using different resources.

- Is there public or private support for emerging designers in your country?

F - We know that there are but we could never deal with them. We would like to get that support in the future.

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- What is the ideal piece of clothing for Li.Torres?

F - Informal coats, hoodies, leather jackets are perfect pieces when choosing LI.TORRES, since they can be combined with more basic items and put together a different striking look.

nal market?

J - Sure, we perfectly know that our proposal can work better internationally not only because we were lucky to be well accepted, but also because abroad people are more open about their clothes, especially in New York, London, Barcelona, Tokyo...

- Do your political, religious, social and personal beliefs influence, somehow, your work and creations?

J - Our beliefs have no influence on our creations. But we always raise issues that both of us like. And taking it into account, we make an intensive search of images and analogies of them.

- What is your next step?

F - To present our summer collection 2012.

Thank you. Congratulations.

- Tell us the daily creative process of Li.Torres . Is it continuous or changing?

F: LI.TORRES creative process is focused on the development and analysis of body shapes and details in each garment. That is why our working method starts from a sketch to experimenting with fabric directly on the mannequin. We also focus on the clothes having some function, that is why in some items we have reversible and dual-use, which makes the garment itself varies in its morphology.

- How is your relationship with the local fashion circuit? Do you know the other designers? Do you help each other or all of you are worried about your own business?

J - I do not think we are fully inserted, but the truth is that we are very happy because we have met many people wanting to start something new. We feel identified with them and we see in their works something different. And best of all is that we can come together, help each other and accomplish things that benefit all of us.

- What does Li.Torres need to improve?

J: No doubt we have many things to improve and the best way to realize this is being self-critical and timely realizing what does not work or what does not identify us. We try to set a line and follow it.

- Are you planning to go on in the internatio102

CHOCKERBOY. by WYATT HOUGH

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WILL DRIVE THEM AWAY. photographer LUCAS CASTRO PARDO assistant MAJO QUAGLIA model MARIANO VIVAR @ K-mgmt

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long sleeved t-shirt & trousers KOSTĂœME sneackers PAEZ

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t shirt & leggings KOSTÜME shoes VINTAGE

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jumpsuit KOSTÜME

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sunglasses EPOS shirt DIOR trousers KOSTÜME shoes GORRIÓN 114

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(Oliver) blazer JOHN VARVATOS argyle sweater BANANA REPUBLIC t-shirt GAP pants THEORY shoes URBAN OUTFITTERS (Vincent) pants LIFE AFTER DENIM shoes URBAN OUTFITTERS sweater MARC JACOBS 117

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(Oliver) white shirt RALPH LAUREN shoes POLO RALPH LAUREN pants ZEGNA AT SUI GENERIS shirt GSTAR (Vincent) blazer & cable sweater SUI GENERIS tshirt GAP pants JOHN VARVATOS shoes RALPH LAUREN

(Oliver) jacket ROYAL HEM AT SUI GENERIS pants JOHN VARVATOS shoes RALPH LAUREN 119

straw hat NORDSTROM shirt THEORY shorts MARC JACOBS

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(Oliver) shirt VICTOR AND ROLF shorts SUI GENERIS shoes NORDSTROM (Vincent) shirt MARC JACOBS pants LIFE AFTER DENIM shoes RALPH LAUREN sunglasses RAYBAN

(Oliver) polo GUCCI yellow denim shorts LEVI’S straw hat NORDSTROM

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(Oliver) polo GUCCI yellow denim shorts LEVI’S (Vincent) straw hat NORDSTROM shirt THEORY shorts MARC JACOBS

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photographer JORGE ARAGÓN assistant AGUSTINA MALVICINO model LUCHO ZÁBRANA @ Hey! mgmt

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SUPERPREDATOR. photogrpaher JOSÉ PABLO CHÁVEZ model PABLO SOLANO @ Independent Model Management stylist MARCO BARQUERO make-up & hair ANDREA SEAS thanks to Monkey Studios, San José. Costa Rica

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kilt LONDONBOYS leggins FOREVER 21 necklace & ring MARILYN STORE boots MONERA SHOES 139

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THE BOYS IN BLUE. photographer LORENZO MARCUCCI stylist RICCARDO SLAVIK models DAN FELTON, LYLE LODWICK, JAMES HAMPSON, RYAN @ Fashion ALEX @ Flash FRANCESCO APOSTOLI ERIC all clothes vintage MeMine

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