Pizza e Pasta Italiana - English version by Pizza e Pasta Italiana

Poste Italiane s.p.a. - Spedizione in Abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (convertito in Legge 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, NE/PD - mensile - € 2,00

PRODUCTS AND TECHNOLOGIES M A D E I N I TA LY

year XXVIII

— the english issue —

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ADVERTISER INDEX Castelli Forni pag. 42, 43 Cuppone Ovens pag. 21, 23 Dell'Oro pag. 71 Elangrill pag. 131 Eredi Malaguti pag. 65 Familia pag. 86 Fiera di Milano, HOST pag. 99 Forni Magliano pag. 95 Francia Latticini pag. 77 Fratelli Beretta pag. 8, 9 Gam International pag. 57 Gi.Metal pag. 79 Greci pag. 111 Hotelex, Shangai pag. 28 IFE, Excell London pag. 114 Italmill pag. 60, 61, 66, 67 Las Vegas, International Pizza Expo pag. 106, 107 La Torrente pag. 87 Latterie Sorrentina pag. 85 Lilly Codroipo pag. 113 Liner pag. 53 Marana Forni pag. 72, 73 Marra Forni pag. 88, 89 Menù pag. 132 Millberg pag. 27 Molino Agugiaro & Figna pag. 36, 37 Molino Caputo pag. 80, 81 Molino Dallagiovanna pag. 92, 93 Molino Denti pag. 101 Molino Magri pag. 115 Molino Pagani pag. 55 Molino Pasini pag. 108, 109 Molino Pivetti pag. 97 Molino Polselli pag. 2, 3 Molino Spigadoro pag. 47 MPForni pag. 13 Mutti pag. 29 Newplast pag. 96 Pizza New Spa pag. 12 Redoro pag. 123 Refrattari Regello – Forni Valoriani pag. 30, 31 Sanfelici Conserve pag. 59 Sitta pag. 17 Smoky Elettromeccanica pag. 117 Stefano Ferrara Forni pag. 7 Ventidue pag. 105

TABLE OF CONTENTS: 6 COMMENTARY by Giampiero Rorato

10 WHO WE ARE by Giampiero Rorato

14 PIZZA WORLD

CHAMPIONSHIP 2017

18 — The Italian most requested products in the World by Giampiero Rorato

32 — The history of pizza by Giampiero Rorato

— Six Interpretations of pizza

THE RESTAURANT

THE INTERVIEW

— Mio Restaurant Beijng by Caterina Orlandi

ICE - Italian trade agency

58 — The Best Amatriciana

by Giampiero Rorato

by Caterina Orlandi

pasta in Italy

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116 LAMBIC

BEER ALE

62 FROM GRAIN TO FLOUR — Quality is the goal

15°

stories of the Italian tomato varieties by Giampiero Rorato

74 — Mozzarella is one of the most important Italian cheeses

30°

LAGER

6°

by Dr. Alessia Pagotto

68 — The fascinating

27°

— The Italian World renowned pastry chef Iginio Massari by Giampiero Rorato

by Giampiero Rorato

— The basic styles of beer by Alfonso Del Forno

120 OLIVE OIL — Olive oil used in pizza dough by Dr. Marisa Cammarano, Biologist Nutritionist

82 102 THE TRUE ARTISAN

— The Neapolitan pizza by Dr. Mario Masi and Dr. Annalisa Romano professor of Università degli studi di Napoli Federico II

90 — How to obtain a good pizza by Patrizio Carrer

ICE-CREAM

— A truly genuine and nourishing food by Giampiero Rorato

110 — Pizza and Wine by Virgilio Pronzati

125 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI — The school for professionals in Italy and abroad

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ommentary

We are delighted to go back to the international scene this year too to present the Italian food and beverage production, making some relevant examples of the Italian food industry of excellence. Italy is the treasure chest of extraordinary niche products; in Italy there is no huge production, exception made for wine, but every type -and we can count many – is available on the market with limited quantities.

by Giampiero Rorato By now everybody knows that Italy produces wonderful wines, from Barolo to Amarone, from Chianti to Aglianico, Gallura Vermentino, Greco di Tufo Verdicchio, Friuli Collio and Sicily wines. And the best restaurants and international chefs already know that the quality of Italian extra-virgin olive oil is second to none, as is the high quality of vegetables which grow under the sun of the Mediterranean sky.

It is not our intention to enhance the great Italian food, such as different types of pasta, rise, cheese, because all these products are already appreciated and sold worldwide. If anything we would like to underline how the Italian food industry, thanks to high quality raw materials, experienced operators and forefront technologies, is able to stand up to its internatio-

nal competitors. It is not risky to state that Italy is internationally one of the reference points in the world food sector, from food to equipment. Italy is proud of the harvest of its gardens, fields and industries, knowing that thanks to a generous nature, the knowledge of operators and its modern industries can give the world food which is able to fascinate even the most demanding gourmands.

www.giampierororato.blogspot.com

PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 Year XXVIII - 2017 January, Nr. 1/bis English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi ADVERTISING Patrizio Carrer, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 - Fax +39 0421 81007 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it

GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo and Paola Dus — mediagraflab.it DIGITAL PUBLISHING Maura Trolese — mediagraflab.it COVER ILLUSTRATED BY Diego Cusano PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Virgilio Pronzati, Giuseppe Dell’Aquila, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), David Mandolin, Gianandrea Rorato, Gianluca Rorato, Federica Zanata, Caterina Vianello, Laura Nascimben, Fabio Iacozzilli PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA INTERNATIONAL Jim Winship (Pizza & Pasta Association, Inghilterra) Pete La Chapelle (N.A.P.O. - Pizza Today, U.S.A.), P.M.Q. Steve Green (U.S.A.)Abbie Jarman (Pizza, U.S.A.) Hidenao Takahashi (Pan World Inc., Giappone) Kazuko Nagamoto (ICT, Giappone) Takeshi Tanaka (Quattro

Stagioni, Giappone) Drew McCarthy (Canadian Pizza Magazine, Canada) Roberto Bresciani (Pizza y Restauration, Spagna), Valeria Vairo (Buongiorno Italia). ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS

FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana SPAGNA RRR Revista de Restauración Rapida, Pizza y Restauración U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green INGHILTERRA Pizza, Pasta & Italian Food GERMANIA Buongiorno Italia – TEL +39 0421 83148 FAX +39 0421 81007

Passion for quality since 1812

or over 200 years Beretta has been committed to bringing into Italian homes all the specialities of the most authentic cured meats and Italian cuisine on a daily basis, combining tradition, modernity and service and providing the customer with excellent quality and safety. The Beretta family founded the business on 5 May 1812 “during the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte” when the first factory was established with a notarial deed in Barzanò. This first official document embodies all the passion of two centuries that has remain unchanged together with the Group’s values, enthusiasm and dedication to the Italian cured meat industry. In 1920 Felice and Mario Beretta opened a butcher shop and delicatessen and transformed the meat processing shop into an industry in step with the times. Between 1960 and 1965, following the success of the first supermarkets, Giuseppe and Vittore Beretta decided to expand the production activity by investing in and diversifying the production of pre-packaged cold cuts. The first plant in Italy was established in 1976, specialising in the production of frankfurters under the brand Wuber. In the decade between 1990-2000 Beretta started conquering foreign markets: in 1997, a production unit was acquired in New Jersey, USA. Then, in 2015 a new production site was established in Mount Olive, New Jersey USA. The secret of the company in the years is continuous innovation in response to the diverse needs of an evolving market and its consumers. Beretta is present in almost all European and non-European countries and is one of the most active and important Italian food exporters. “Made in Italy” is not only a brand; it is a harmonious blend of culture and nature, renewed tradition and the genuine taste of quality products. This is the why Beretta is the ambassador of Italian products throughout the world. Today Beretta products are sold in more than 40 countries and the Group has four factories abroad.

Passion for Quality since 1812

PARMA HAM PDO* One of the finest typical Italian products. This dry cured ham is made from selected pork legs and processed with great skills. Seasoned at least 12 months, according to the strict regulations of the Consortium of Parma. It is most appreciated for its sweetness and soft texture. A pure joy for your taste. *Protected Designation of Origin

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WHOWE ARE P

izza e pasta italiana has been for

28 years the world leading

magazine in food and pizza sector. This is the 6th edition of our

renown magazine, Pizza e Pasta Italiana in English for the international markets for all those people who are involved in the high-end pizza products. A brief journey through raw materials, baking techniques, recipes, great food personalities, who are making history in our gastronomy of excellence.

p. 11

he editor of this magazine, Pizza New Spa, was among the first one to believe in the branch of pizza. With time pizza from a poor food, spread above all around Italy, becoming a nutritionally complete food, made by first order professionals. Pizza e Pasta Italiana could only have been an Italian product! Historically, Italy is the world food cradle and the land of pizza from the earliest times. We as Italians, proudly promote our knowledge and our excellent products casted in an international environment. Pizza is a democratic and convivial food, apparently simple but highly complex. It is very difficult to make and bake a good pizza, and this is why through pizza we strive to offer our many readers around the world, a panoramic as complete as possible, rich in techniques and recipes, tricks, reportages, technologies, and news which accompany this dynamic sector. In Pizza e Pasta Italiana, you will nevertheless find the more classic catering, because we believe that education both for chefs and pizzaioli has to be at 360Â°, and because we strive that every professional category is able to find hints, crossings and common ground with the work of others.

The editor of this magazine, that in Italy is released every month and that you can find in English for free as an application on Apple Store, is not only strictly the sheer editor, it is also the organizer of the world most known pizza event, the Pizza World Championship. This event is held every year in Italy for 25 years, and represents the world meeting point for all pizza lovers around the world. During three days of show, operators, pizza chefs and entrepreneurs can meet each other, and on a common ground. The 2017 edition will be held in Parma, in the heart of the Italian food valley, from May 8th to 10th. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s complete the conspectus of our activities saying that our passion for pizza and professional catering is completed by the work of the International School of Pizza, private professional school born in late 80s in Italy. The school teaches newbies and professionals new methods and techniques. You will find more detailed information on our schools and education activities later on this magazine. We wish you a joyful reading, and we invite you to follow us on our different editorial channels:

www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it

www.worldpizzachampionship.it

PIZZA PALA

pallino.it

From professionals to professionals

Selected by

An ancient taste thought for a modern use. Artisanal production

High digestibility

Available in more sizes. Pizza Pala is already stretched, partially cooked and frozen, ready to be dressed and baked.

Unique quality

Easy use and versatility

For further information, please contact: Pizza New S.p.A. tel. +39 0421 83148 - info@pizzanew.it

Vehicle mounted ovens The picture shows a typical italian vehicle, the Ape Piaggio, adapted for a food truck as a symbol of good italian neapolitan. This trailer have a refrigerated counter for pizza dough, ingredients etc. It 's has the frying area, sink and also a freezer. With this option food preparation is done in the trailer and not on the street.

www.mpforni.it Forni artigianali che durano nel tempo

a zz i p d l p i r o h s w pion m a h c p. 14

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VALUE AND MEANING OF AN EXTRAORDINARY EVENT

by Giampiero Rorato

The most important world level event for the world of the pizza, conceived, promoted and organized by this Magazine and by its ownership, will reach its 26th edition in the upcoming month of May.

In its background, there is therefore a long, solid and nonstop tradition that every year has seen gathering as pizzaioli coming from every part of the world and, together with them, entrepreneurs of equipment and producers of raw material for pizzerias. Its first edition took place in 1990 in Castrocaro Terme, later on in Viareggio to finally move to Salsomaggiore Terme, all places enhanced at a world level by this event. The event, also wanted by many Italian cities for the enormous turnover it generates, for two years now it is held in Parma, the European capital of food and wine, in the prestigious building of Palacassa, next to the Convention Center.

Therefore, this year, it will take place from May 8th to 10th, with the attendance of many pizzaioli from all around Europe, from America, from North Africa, Asia and Australia.

www.pizzaworldchampionship.it

p. 15

THE KNOWLEDGE This event, unique at international level, has also been designed for a series of reasons. Above all, pizza-bakers, who before were alone in their work, thanks to this magazine and to the World Pizza Championship have finally gained the chance to be introduced in an international network, where they can meet each other, exchange information, evaluate operating techniques, and extraordinary friendships were born, which bound pizzaioli form every continent.

The human aspect has gained and continues to gain a prominent importance and next to it, it has developed a new and modern culture of pizza that has allowed the many hundreds of pizza-makers registered to the event, and every year this some new, to have precious confrontations, deepen the knowledge of products and to learn more about new products and techniques on yeasts, dough mixes, fermentation and toppings.

This all represents the cultural and professional soul of the Pizza World Championship and thousands of pizza bakers who during the previews 25 years have taken part, and went home with a rich expertise that helped them to grow a lot.

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THE EVENT The most prominent aspect of the Pizza World Championship is represented by the different pizza events thought to enhance and valorize at best vocations and skills of participants and the list of the categories is enough to understand well the complexity of the event more in general. Pizza-bakers compete, in other words, to conquer the title of Pizza World Champion in the following categories: Classic

For any further information, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hesitate to contact: info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it

Pizza, Pizza in the pan, Pizza on the peel, Neapolitan STG pizza, Gluten free pizza, Pizza for two (pizzaiolo and chef), Artistic pizza, Heinz Beck Trophy (for first dishes made by chefs working in a pizzeria), the largest, the fastest, Single Free style, Team free style. Therefore there are 12 specialities and to the World Pizza Championship around 690 competitors are admitted, selected

through other exhibitions, among which the European Championship and Giropizza of Europe, that take place in the main European cities in occasion of the most important food exhibitions. For the 2017 edition, the preselection rounds have started in the Fall of 2015, in New Zealand and Australia and then it will be the turn of Shanghai and many more nations where pizza represents Italy.

CMY

THE MEANING As you can clearly understand, pizzabakers who gain the podium during the great gala evening with the title of Pizza World Championship lure the interest of the media, press, tv both national and local, thus obtaining fame which translates into business success.

Until this moment, it has always been like this, and in the previews 25 editions also pizzaioli before unknown, confined in secluded areas, thanks to the winning and to the title of Pizza World Championship have obtained and continue to obtain those satisfactions and that economic success that continues to prolong along time.

These are all the many reasons for which the Pizza World Championship obtains a great success among pizza-bakers of the whole world, moves broadcasting stations and the press, attracting many food personalities, important journalists, famous artists and qualified equipment and food entrepreneurs who present the latest products to be launched on the market.

IL PIU ALTO POTERE RADIANTE INFRA-ROSSO

100% PURO FAGGIO

Ideale per la cottura nel forno refrattario perché permette di cuocere non solo per Conduzione e Induzione ma anche per Irraggiamento.

Non contiene impurità, né corteccia, né collanti né idrocarburi, né alcun tipo di additivo aggregante

UMIDITA’≤ 8%

TEMPERATURA COSTANTE PIU’ A LUNGO

‘O Sole mio permette di raggiungere la temperatura perfetta in un lampo.

Rende molto meglio della legna tradizionale perché l‘essenza del faggio migliore.

ULTRA COMPATTO

STOCCAGGIO SEMPLIFICATO

Grazie alla tecnologia di produzione unica risulta essere il più duro e compatto sul mercato

Ogni scatola pesa 18 kg e contiene 8 tronchetti permettendo facilità di stoccaggio, ordine e pulizia sotto al forno.

FORMA OTTAGONALE BREVETTATA

PULITO

Testato e certificato da analisi chimica e batteriologica per la cottura di alimenti

Soluzione unica che assicura Maneggevolezza e Stabilità evitando il rotolamento in platea.

ECOLOGICO

CONVENIENTE

Riduce le emissioni di monossido di carbonio nell‘atmosfera, ma anche la fuliggine nel camino.

A parità di peso e ingombro surclassa di gran lunga in resa anche la migliore legna tradizionale

‘O SOLE MIO E’ IL FUTURO DELLA TRADIZIONE Il Tronchetto ‘O SOLE MIO è Pura Energia da Biomassa, è Pura Essenza di Legno vergine dal Faggio Migliore.

‘O SOLE MIO offre una alternativa ecologica piu conveniente e piu potente alla legna tradizionale perche ha un rendimento superiore e un potere calorifico costante.

‘O SOLE MIO il tronchetto

Benessere Eco-Innovativo

San Giovanni al Natisone (UD) / Italy T. +39 0432 756883 / F. +39 0432 757462 sitta@sittasrl.com / www.sittasrl.com

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Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;

the primacy of the

t is a fact that Italian products are well appreciated abroad and the

italian food industry

economic value that they represent is not only high but is also one of the main credit items on the Italian export sheet.

The Italian most requested products in the World

And what are the most sought

after Italian products, in order of importance?

by Giampiero Rorato

First of all wine. In this sector Italy has overtaken France both for the quantity sold and for its turnover, thus giving a strong contribution to strengthening the agricultural economy of our country in all the 20 regions. To follow pasta, the most known Italian product, which quality is even greater than that produced abroad. It should be added that the food and productive Italian culture was able to enhance at its different styles, cooking and toppings gaining results envied by the whole world.

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The the third place on the chart of the internationally most requested Italian products chart, is assigned to Grana Padano cheese, a real Made in Italy flagship, that together with Parmesan Cheese is impregnated with a long-lasting story, which dates back to Middle ages, rich in culture, devotion, intelligent work and industry which should be supported also because loved by many Italians who live abroad. This great trio is followed by the sweet product compartment and here a remark should be made. Many Italian fellow-citizens are ready to criticize what is produced in Italy and are prone to emphasize foreign products, and it can be understood because the grass is always greener on the other side.

But this is not always true. Chocolate produced in Italy, simply to make one example, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t contain any junk food like that produced in other countries around the world and it is considered by experts the best of the world, both because it is made with excellent cocoa, and the best production methods and the final addition of high quality additional ingredients such as extravirgin olive oil and not palm oil. It is then known that Italian pastry chefs excel every time they take part to international competitions, this is a signal that along with excellent raw material there are also refined techniques, with results which fascinate also the most demanding foreign tourists.

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Panettone and Pandoro, simply to quote two Italian traditional Christmas cakes, are requested in the whole world. The skills of those who choose raw materials have to be added to the high professionalism of pastry chefs, both artisans and those who work in the great Italian sweet factories. Extra-virgin olive oil is another excellent Italian product. It is true that the first and foremost producer of olive oil is Spain, but it is also known that there is a lot of rubbish even under magniloquent names. Italian extra-virgin olive oil, in particular PDO, is the highest quality that consumers can find and the most careful restaurants can buy for their costumers. There are many trustworthy and high quality oil mills in Italy and they give consumers the highest security guarantees. But this is well known abroad. Italian fruit and vegetable are also welcomed abroad for the same reason, that is high quality, widely recognized everywhere.

Cold meats and salami are widely appreciated abroad but this sector is not always considered attentively. In this field of production Italian tradition has very old roots, it has improved along time, so much that, nowadays the delicate fragrance of the Italian hams, beginning with Parma ham, San Daniele ham and Berico-Euganeo have no rivals in the World, we can also quote other hams such as Carpegna, Modena and Tuscany. Sauris ham is of great delicacy together with Norcia and Amatrice ham. Followed by the great series of hams, bacons, mortadella and sausages in a great variety coming from the whole of Italy.

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Coffee makes up for an important chapter. Italy is not a coffee producer but Italian factories are the best in the World to roast coffeebeans and to make extraordinary mixes. It is not by chance that Italian coffee, produced by many of Italian coffee roasters, is used in the best restaurants and hotels in the whole world. Let’s close this ample review with an Italian product that is conquering always more and more fans, that is Italian beer. It is a fact that there are many multinational companies, with branches in the whole world but Italian beer in the recent period is conquering the Anglo-Saxon world, from Great Britain to the United States of America, and this is the expression of the Italian way of living that has become a philosophy of life, the search for that food pleasure that only Italy can produce and render with generosity, skill and seriousness. I believe that the old saying, in this sector has to be turned over, the grass in not greener on the other side and we should be proud of these Italian excellent products, fruits of the land, the sun and the environment but also the result of the knowledge of generations, seriousness, skilled work and capability of our producers and of the history of the food and wine sector that makes Italy the undisputed leader of the world’s agro-industrial sector.

— the grass in not greener on the other side and we should be proud of our Italian excellent products —

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by Giampiero Rorato

ICE-Italian Trade Agency: the interview W

ine remains the most exported Italian food product, and it confirmed its top spot in the first few months of 2016. According to the figures from national statistics office ISTAT and the Italian Federation of the Food Industry, between January and July 2016 wine exports totaled more than €3.3 billion and made up 19.7% of the sector’s total export volumes.

The confectionery sector follows, with exports totaling €1.922 billion in the first seven months of 2016, equivalent to 11.4% of total export volumes. Pasta accounted for €1.36 billion worth of exports, making up 8.1% of export volumes. The presence of products from the dairy sector was also strong. Its export volumes were worth €1.52 billion in the first seven months of 2016.

p. 25

Dr. Aronadio, could you please tell our readers, spread all over the world, how ICE (Italian Trade Commission) is structured?

“Sure, I declare beforehand that this year ICE – agency for the promotion abroad of Italian companies celebrates 90 years (1926) of work and for those who have been working there for several years already, it is a reason of pride for the knowledge of its center role regards the economic development of the country in the framework of the internationalization of companies. ICE agency is endowed of juridical power of public right, following the guidelines of the Economy Development Ministry in accordance with the Foreign Affairs Ministry together with the Economy and Finance Ministry. It holds anyways regulatory, financial, organizational, patrimonial and accounting authority. In simple words, ICE agency has been working for 90 years, side by side with Italian companies to ensure them a wider success on the international markets and it encourages the foreign companies to consider Italy as a trustworthy global partner. ICE agency, drawing its marketing plan in favor of Made in Italy, acquires the guidelines of the so called control room for International Italy, lead together by the Foreign Affair Ministry and the Economic Development Ministry, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, which governs together as for matters of competence, to follow the Ministry of Agricultural and Forestry Policies, the presidents of the region chambers, Unioncamere (the Italian Union of Chambers of Commerce), Confindustria (Confederation of Italian Enterprises), Italian Enterprise Network, ABI (Italian Bank Association) and Alliance of cooperatives.

Such strategical addresses turn into real activities thanks to the comparison with managerial bodies and other public and private subjects potentially interested. The main headquarter is Rome but in Italy also the headquarters in Milan are functioning. Abroad ICE agency is made up by a network of 79 operative units (http://www.ice.gov.it/sedi/index.htm) available for the Italian companies. This organizational structure allows to have in Italy a central seat where it defines the internationalization strategies and abroad a true export office, open to answer to the specific needs of each entrepreneur.”

Dr. Maria Ines Aronadio, head of ICE agency food and wine office

How should an Italian producer who wishes to export to the EU and non -EU countries make use of your consultancy services in order to reach his/her fixed goals?

“Above all, the website www.ice.gov.it represents the first channel of information for enterprises. It is divided into different chapters and it is able to give for free and very rapidly a series of online services which are indispensable for a first approach to reference markets and sectors. January 2017 will see the release of a new version, much more interactive if compared to the actual one and therefore easier to be used. It is sufficient to register for free by clicking the LOGIN button on ICE-agency website. This simple action allows the company to be constantly updated about all promotional initiatives organized by ICE agency in the various countries abroad in all Made in Italy sectors. In 2015, Ice agency has organized around 850 events promoting 70 sectors of the Italian production in 60 different markets.

The entire foreign ICE agency network is available for the Italian companies for any type of assistance and consulting service, to develop tailor made strategies, giving information about the country, on the commercial opportunities, international competitions, investment from and to Italy. The operator can directly contact our foreign offices in Italian.

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THE INTERVIEW

Is there a relationship between ICE agency and the Italian diplomatic representatives?

“Absolutely. The ambassador is the head of all Italian institutional public representatives abroad and he/she coordinates the Italian System for its support action to the taking roots of our companies on the foreign markets. In particular, the office Ice agency is tightly involved with all the business matters taken care by the Embassy, furthermore being responsible for all the events foreseen by the Promotional Plan.”

ICE agency at a food and wine exhibition around the world

Which are the most sought after Italian products, with particular reference to the EU countries, to the USA and South America, Africa, China and Japan?

“According to the 2015 – 2016 foreign trade report “Italy in the international economy “, drawn every year by ICE agency, shows a fragile recovery of the world trade activity in the first half of 2015 followed unfortunately by a slowdown in the second half. Also, the year 2016 started in the name of uncertainty and of a deterioration of growth perspectives particularly strong for the emerging economies and the Euro area most fragile. In such an international framework, anyways for Italy the euro value grows of exported (+3,8) and imported (3,3%) goods. Germany and France are more and more the main markets for selling goods, respectively with 12.3% and 10% of national exports. The USA rank third among the partner countries with 8.7%, followed by Great Britain and Spain (5.4% and 4,8%). Belgium (+0.2 percentage point as compared to 2014), UAE (+0.2 perc. Point.) and Canada (+0.1 p.p) are release markets.

Among the manufacturing products for which Italy holds the greatest share of world exportation is terra cotta construction material (19,8%); baked products and flour (12,8%); leather, bags, purses, cases and also horse riding equipment (12,7%); carved stones (12,3%); tanks, radiator, and metal containers (10,0%); fur clothing (9,7%). As for the agroindustrial sector (agriculture products, forestry products and fishery products together with food products, liquors and tobacco), in 2015 export has reached 36,8 million euro as compared to 34,2 million in 2014, recording an increase of 7,4%. Also, the first half of 2016 has recorded a positive start obtaining an increase of +2,7%.

MUTTI PEELED TOMATOES: A TOUCH OF GASTRONOMY

The extremely fleshy and firm Mutti Peeled Tomatoes are processed and packaged within 24 hours of harvesting to preserve their authentic freshly picked taste.

MUTTI PEELED TOMATOES ARE PERFECT FOR GIVING A REAL GOURMET TOUCH TO YOUR RECIPES

www.mutti-parma.com

VALORIANI

world famous

A great artisan known all over the world

history made of experience, knowledge and passion since 1890. A business passed on five generations; territory and tradition are the characterizing elements of REFRATTARI VALORIANI Srl. An entrepreneurial solidity that goes from the first pre-built wood fired oven by Silvio Valoriani to the daily innovations, linking the quality of raw materials, services, design and Made in Italy. Nowadays the knowledge, competence and ability to experiment of Massimo Valoriani have confirmed the success of wood and gas fired ovens also at an international level. A fame supported in its quality from recognized certifications all over the world: ETL in the USA, CLEAN AIR in the UK, UNI, IMQ and CE. Moreover, we are partner of the AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) and our gas ovens are the only ones approved by them for the baking of real Neapolitan pizza. VESUVIO Vesuvio Valoriani is the most imitated gas and wood fired oven all over the world, and the most appreciated by professional pizza makers. The original project took life at the beginning of the 70’s, on the basis of a design that even today is followed, perfected by technical innovations. Vesuvio is a performing oven, synonymous and warranty of the highest quality that can be found in the pre-built professional ovens review. The refractory material allows a constant and uniform distribution of the heat for crunchy pizzas baked in a very few minutes. VALORIANI BABY The most recent Valoriani oven perfect to be used in every environment, the first domestic oven with professional features. It is ready for use, light and handy - either by hand or on wheels - to meet space and movement requirements. The BABY VALORIANI can be wood or gas fired. An oven designed not only for families who wish to have professional quality at home, but also for pizza professionals who need a practical and transportable oven fitting every situations. VALORIANI BABY STANDARD

VALORIANI BABY LUXURY

Outside dome in painted metal

Front in painted metal

Front in stainless steel

Stand in stamped metal sheet with one shelf

Support with manually operated legs and two shelves

Dome in refractory conglomerate of professional quality Dome in refractory conglomerate of professional quality Baking floor in refractory cotto

Baking floor in refractory cotto

available color: red, black and white

VALORANI VERACE “Valoriani Verace” is a professional oven that can work also by gas. It is the only one that, even by gas, maintains the very same characteristics of Lower Insulation, Baking Floor Structure and Recycling Heating System, and guarantees the respect of the baking technique of the real Neapolitan pizza, as officially recognized by the AVPN. A stateof-the-art oven, its Recycling Heating System increases its sustainability through the recovery of heat emissions, and their free recycling. Valoriani Verace follows the legislation about heat emissions when working by wood and the rules to obtain the True Neapolitan Pizza mark (AVPN).

Many others have tried to copy our ovens, we take that as a compliment, even if VALORIANI’s ovens are and will always be the one and only ORIGINALS. Thank you, MASSIMO VALORIANI

ForniTheValoriani originals

VALORIANI

Valoriani Baby

dellanesta.it

The PROFESSIONAL wood-fired and gas ovens with the floor in REAL REFRACTORY COTTO They represent the best solution for perfectly cooked pizza.

A professional mini-oven at your service

• 2 versions: Standard and Luxury • Light • Manageable • Suitable for every situation • VESUVIO SERIE IGLOO/OT measures expressed in cm Front opening

Total Flue Pizza capacity weight manifold ø 28/30cm

100 ø

100x100

140x150

54x28

1100

4/5

120 ø

120x120

160X170

55x28

1350

5/6

140 ø

140x140

180X190

55x28

1600

8/9

120X160

120x160

160X210

55x28

1600

8/9

140X160

140x160

180X210

55x28

1750

11/12

140X180

140x180

180X230

55x28

1900

20-25

14/15

180 ø

180x180

225X245

55x28

2200

20-25

17/19

the Company reserves the right to make changes without notice - pictures text and numbers are indicative

MOD.

Inside Outside Dimensions dimensions

Supply: Wood or Gas

PATENTED

measures expressed in cm

BABY

• VALORIANI VERACE measures expressed in cm

Front opening

Weight kg

160x170x h190 with stand

45x22 on request 54x22

1600

180x190x h190 with stand

45x22 on request 54x22

1900

Inside MOD. dome’s sizes Outside dimensions

120 ø 140 ø

120x120 140x140

LUXURY

STANDARD

Outside dimensions without stand

81x76x61h

Outside dimensions with stand and wheels

87x87x160h

83x83x160h

Inside Dimensions

60x60

Front opening

36x21

Total weight

148 kg

Flue pipes (Ø)

ø 15 cm

Burner weight

7 kg

Refrattari Valoriani S.r.l.

Via Caselli alla Fornace, 213 • 50066 Reggello (FI) - tel. 055 86 80 69 • fax 055 86 95 992 - valoriani@valoriani.it

www.valoriani.it

60x60

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pizza e pasta italiana

THE HISTORY “ LET’S THINK BACK TO THE FIRST MILLENNIUM OF THIS ITALIAN EXTRAORDINARY

by Giampiero Rorato

p. 33

OF PIZZA

â&#x20AC;?

DISH, WHICH NAPLES HAS KNOWN HOW TO SPREAD IN THE WORLD

izza is the most ancient food handed down by man along the centuries. Pizza, as a thin flat cake, was therefore the early unleavened bread of mankind. In prehistoric times the flat cakes incorporated all the components of the grain, including the bran, and as a result were rather coarse, since the seeds had to be crushed in traditional mortars with pestles of stone or hard wood. Soon the farming of crops spread to the Orient, in particular to India and China, and almost contemporarily to Turkey, Greece and the rest of Europe. With the discovery of agriculture early man started to lead a more secure and calm life, gradually eliminating the risks of hunting, insecurities bestowed by erratic seasons, the dangers posed by violent tempests and droughts, and particularly eliminating the nomadic lifestyle that previously dictated survival. At the beginning of land cultivation the first plants produced by man himself were cereals, usually grown in hilly zones, where they already prospered in natural state. To start with, our forefathers fed on roasted grains, later supplemented with soups, which were prepared by leaving seeds in water to soak, thus making them much easier to digest. Gradually, as food became more refined and digestible, the human form took on different aspects, closer to a semblance with modern man. In particular the ever increasing digesting facility was transforming jaw and teeth, a process which steadily distanced mankind from the animal species. So the issue of digestibility of food kept pace with an evolution of human speciesThe first cereal among human foodstuffs was without doubt millet, followed by barley, oat, rye, sorghum, foxtail millet, spelt, wild

einkorn and emmer wheat, all the plants which were present in natural state, but in varying quantities and in different parts of the world. As a consequence of great population migrations certain types of cereals became known in areas where they did not exist previously. When Indo-Aryan tribes migrated to India, around 2000 BC, they discovered that oat was already widespread there. Nevertheless, they imposed cultivation of barley, maintaining that men, in order to be robust soldiers, must eat only that cereal. For thousands of years barley and oats dominated the food markets of the planet, with varying success, according to the habits and beliefs of different populations, and all without scientific encouragement. In Homerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time the Greeks, as we all can read for ourselves, used to roast barley and use it extensively in flat cakes, while at the same time they looked down on the Scythians who were eating oats, comparing them to horses. The Romans, especially contemporaries of Cato in the 2nd century AC, maintained that oats should be eradicated like weeds. In fact, the Romans despised the Germanic tribes because of their fondness for eating oats. The first flatbreads were manufactured with pounded seeds of barley, kneaded with water, shaped into round forms (not larger than 23 cm in diameter), which were then baked on hot stones, as confirmed by finds at more that one archaeological site. Farinata (a type of pancake), obtained from the pounded grains cooked in water on hot stones, became a staple food for thousands of years. When the Egyptians discovered the uses of yeast the way was open to the appearance of leavened bread, lighter and easier to digest. This was the bread that conquered the world, and became a barter commodity

â&#x20AC;ş

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pizza e pasta italiana

The history of pizza

until the introduction of minted coins. An Egyptian priest was paid, as shown in various surviving documents, (from Turin and London museums, for example, in displays devoted to the ancient Egyptians), with focacce (flat breads) and other foodstuffs. After millet, barley and oat, fortune smiled upon emmer - a species of durum wheat suitable for polentine (a type of stiff porridge and grain which was used only for a few centuries and survived only in some regions of Italy, such as Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio). Emmer is important in the history of food, because it is a predecessor of wheat, which became the king of cultivated cereals, since the flour produced from wheat is the most suitable for focacce (or pizzas), bread, and in general baked products, because of its vital characteristics, described in the following chapters. Word pizza originates from pinsa, the participle of the Latin verb pinsere whose range of meanings includes to pound, squeeze, mash, knead, press, push, break, grind or mush. In Romania the word pinza means a type of bread made in the shape of the bobbin or spool used in weaving. In Rimini, in a document dating from 1256, the term pizza is used to indicate a particular type of flat cake. Pinza meant for the Venetians a particular bread cooked under ashes, preserved to this day as a specific cake for Epiphany, naturally very thin. Moretum was a flatbread made of emmer flour, specifically Roman grain, unleavened and then baked in an oven, sprinkled with oil and vinegar, garnished with garlic, onions, rue and cheese. Picea (from slang pitta meaning pitch), was a type of bread made of emmer flour (Italian farro) somewhat sticky exactly like the pitch, then flattened with a pistus (a type of wooden roller favoured by bakers). In the Middle Ages the word picea was transformed into piza and eventually pizza, in which form the term entered the common language of food.

THE MODERN FLATBREAD, THAT IS: PIZZA The real pizza was born in the south out of the necessity to render flatbreads more attractive, and make the best use of available resources. It is traditionally believed that pizza was born in Naples. However, as most scholars confirm, this is not so much because it was actually invented in the city of Naples itself as the fact that pizza is the culinary standard bearer of the south and the Naples is always celebrated as the heart of the south. The first true pizza was that made with the bread dough, baked in the oven and dressed with garlic, lard and coarse salt, so it was like a flat cake with dressing. Soon the lard was overtaken by oil, and cheese and aromatic herbs were added, thus creating the Roman moretum. The pizza with basil is called pizza Mastunicola. The including of whitebait dates from the same period, and thus the name of a particular type of flatbread: cecinelli - or small fry. We are in the seventeenth century and the flatbreads with topping have made their entrance, but they do not yet include mozzarella or tomatoes and are still not widespread, as the majority favours flatbread with fat, salt and garlic.

We recognise the appearance of tomato sauce for the first time in a written work dating from 1778, Il Cuoco Galante - A Gallant Chef by Vicenzo Corrado. The tomato was imported from America into Europe and spread by the Spanish, but was not employed to dress either Maccheroni (pasta) or pizza in those times. Buffalo milk mozzarella also appeared, but again did not make its way to the pizza. Tomatoes were first used as a regular dressing for pasta by open-air bakers selling to the passing trade. The sauce was made in a large saucepan, and the tomatoes were flavoured with a pinch of salt and some basil leaves â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and we are already at the beginning of the XIX century. Gradually tomato sauce became a more widespread ingredient of pizza - and buffalo milk mozzarella too â&#x20AC;&#x201C; around the mid 19th century, although works by one of the most committed chefs of his day, Ippolito Cavacanti Duca di Buonvicino, contain no references to either of them. Tomato represents a benchmark in the history of pizza, certainly more than mozzarella, because different cheeses or even buffalo milk mozzarella were used only cautiously on pizzas before 1850.

p. 35

nother legend of pizza states that one day the Vulcan, blacksmith to the gods and husband of Venus, the beauty queen of all goddesses, appeared famished with hunger from labouring at his forge, and asked his consort what she had ready to eat. Venus, who had unfortunately forgotten to prepare lunch, instantly rushed to put some flatbreads on the red hot stones of Vesuvius, having previously soaked them with goats milk and garnished with aromatic herbs and juicy berries. That is an alternative tale of how pizza was born.

The decisive year for the pizza was 1889, when a series of pizzas were officially launched, after being carefully produced for decades in pizzerias of the Naples and the Italian south in general:

Little Italy. The development spread to northern Italy in the early years of the twentieth century thanks to dedicated cooks from the south who with their ability and experience managed in a few decades to carry pizza into the modern age.

PIZZA ALLA MASTUNICOLA

But let us step back for a moment to a truly historic day for pizza, the 9th of June, 1889, when Umberto I and his consort Queen Margherita, summon Don Raffaele Esposito and his wife Rosa Brandi to the Palace of Capodimonte. They pair are the owners of the already famous pizzeria Pietro il Pizzaoilo (Peter the Pizza Maker), situated on the slopes of the Sant’Anna di Palazzo, in the heart of Chiaia di Napoli. The royal couple have heard many stories concerning the legendary skills of the man reputed to be the finest pizza chef of his times.

– with lard, cheese and basil

PIZZA ALLA MARINARA – with tomato, garlic, oil and oregano.

PIZZA MARGHERITA – with tomato, oil, mozzarella and basil.

In practice, however, the Pizza alla Mastunicola was already invented in the 1600s, Pizza alla Marinara in 1800s and Pizza Margherita in 1850s. At the end of the XIX century, a real explosion of many varieties of pizza occurred in the south of Italy, and soon afterwards spread to the United States, with a special welcome in New York’s

Accordingly, the couple carefully prepared three classic pizzas, thoughtfully christening one – topped with mozzarella and tomato - Pizza Margherita in honour of the Queen. (The story goes that by using ingredients matching the three colours of the Italian national flag - green, red and white - Mrs Brandi sought to honour the majesty of the sovereigns. Nonetheless the result was an entirely new and formidable pizza which became hugely popular, so much that it was the favourite of the Austrian born Maria Carolina, wife of Ferdinand IV Bourbon).

The credit for the enormous success of pizza, a simple, agreeable, tasty and inexpensive dish celebrated around the globe, belongs undeniably to the Neapolitans, who are immensely proud of their unique skills and methods in preparing the basic dough base, the starting point of all successful pizza recipes, which opens the door to infinite varieties of flavours according to fashion, taste and personal diets. By ancient tradition pizza was high and soft, with raised edges, but of late and especially in Rome, central Italy and in the north, pizza comes to the table thinner and more crunchy while its edges have displayed a tendency to disappear (although not of course at the hands of any self respecting Neapolitan who always adheres firmly to the traditional recipe). Another evolutionary development is away from wholemeal flour in favour of more refined flours, which contribute to more springy and elastic dough, or even blends of different types of flour. In the ancient tradition wood fire ovens were always used, in company with a very lively fire. The pizza was customarily baked at the base of the flame, rather than by refracted heat. Nowadays the trend is to use electric or gas ovens, but the main difference lies in the cooking not with a flame, but with the total mass of heat refraction. To the stout hearts, the use of modern equipment is strictly forbidden in the traditional cooking, while those who use modern technologies produce the basic material and the base faster and with a lot of help from modern kitchen appliances. To sum up, the success of a good pizza lies in the balance that is struck between offer and demand. The dish must always be well-cooked, digestible and expertly finished with the desired topping. The pleasure given to the palate of the diner is always more important than how the dough was prepared.

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pizza e pasta italiana

Contacts: export@agugiarofigna.com www.le5stagioni.it

La passione per la

pizza

ooking into the Italian history of the milling tradition, our attention must for sure be attracted by the two families Agugiaro from Padova and Figna from Parma, nowadays more than 150 years old in this branch. 2003 these two companies became an only group. The Group Agugiaro & Figna Mills proposes a large range of soft wheat flours and semifinished products, able to satisfy the different needs of the most exigent professionals. Starting from small bakeries to the most trendy pizzeria, from the sophisticated pastry shops to the big Italian and International industries, Agugiaro & Figna mills can give an answer to all the most peculiar requests, counting on many standard items specific for each purpose as wall as on specifically developed products. Innovation, Research, Development, Technology: these are the main focuses which enable the company to reach the tip quality production it is famous for; top quality production which starts from a professional selection of wheats coming

from the best world crops, passing through their special mixing processes and having as a result the excellent blending and savour of the best tradition. All around the world, the international brand Le 5 Stagioni is synonymous of high-quality flour for pizza; with its very specialized flours and semifinished products, Le 5 Stagioni is the Italian leader for the most exigent pizzaiolo. The brand is also well sold all over Europe and in many overseas countries, being recognized for its peculiar and unique characteristics. The commercial support for domestic and foreign distributors is followed by the technical and specialized help of trained technicians who are working side by side with the customers to obtain the best results out of their own recipes. The special blending and savours of the flours, combined with this cooperation between the different departments of the company and the final consumer, is the guarantee of a first-rate result of the final product. The two Research and Development centres of the Group are constantly looking for the fine tuning of new

products, trying to reach the top level in terms of service, proposals, renewal and competence. In this spirit, and thanks to the joint venture with the Departments of Genetics and Biology of Microorganism of the University in Parma, the different proposals of dried Mother Yeast Powder Naturkraft Pizza, Naturkraft Pane (for bread), Naturkraft Brown (all-wheat), Naturkraft Bio, Naturkraft Farro (Spelt) and Naturkraft Pasticceria (for pastry) are the different proposals in order to obtain an unforgettable result, combining the newest techniques with the research of a traditional flavour. Le 5 Stagioni is constantly winning approval of many Associations all over the world: Le 5 Stagioni – Pizza Napoletana, for instant, for its rheological characteristics, has been approved by the Associazione Verace Napoletana. The products Le 5 Stagioni can be found all over the world, not only on the Italian market: European countries as well as overseas ones are enjoying the Italian flavours of the best tradition. Le 5 Stagioni: the best choice in the world for the most careful pizzaiolo with the widest range to satisfy the most demanding tastes!!!

Proud partner of “ Scuola italiana Pizzaioli” www.scuolaitalianipizzaioli.it Proud partner of AVPN – Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana www.pizzanapoletana.org

The Ad Store Italia

ABSOLUTELY, JUST USE SEMINA: A FLOUR OBTAINED THROUGH A PROCESS THAT PRESERVES THE HEART OF THE WHEAT. It is here, in the vital wheat germ, that the nutritional properties of the seed are found. For this reason, we have studied a milling process that leaves all the wheat’s beneficial properties intact and generates Semina, an extraordinary semi-whole wheat flour with high nutritional values. Try it for your dough, you’ll find the taste and the fragrance quite exceptional!

#StorieDiFarina www.le5stagioni.it • curtarolo@agugiarofigna.com • +39 049 9624611 •  Le 5 Stagioni •

@le5stagioni

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interpretations

Wâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;

pizza

2017

ith the recipes that you will find in the following pages we wished to render to you the interpretations of six great pizza experts. Pizza is the most loved and known dish in the whole world.

Four of them are Italian â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Graziano Bertuzzo, technical director of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, multi-award winning expert of the sector internationally known for his passion, professionalism and preparation. The second is Tony Gemignani, skilled pizzaiolo based in San Francisco, success entrepreneur, multi-award winner and pizza teacher himself. The third is Pasquale Cozzolino pizza chef at Ribalta New York, who has brought Naples into the heart of New York to make you experience a one-of-a-kind taste: to taste the true Neapolitan pizza.

The fourth is world renown Franco Pepe, the modern artisan of pizza with his new concept Pepe in Grani in Caiazzo, Italy. The fifth is a young girl, Sara Palmieri from Benevento, specialized in gluten free recipes, working in Paris at Big mama concept and last but not least is the famous Swedish pizza talent Mike Arvblom, who has learned the art of pizza from his dad John and expanded his knowledge by taking part in different pizza contests working side by side with the best pizza chefs in the world.

pizza champions

1 Graziano

In 1973 he started to approach the world of pizza acquiring along the years more and more experience. In 1979, pushed by the passion for pizza, he bough together with his sister, Manuela, the pizza shop Brian, near Caorle – Venice. In 1984 he attended a course as Master Instructor at Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli (Caorle – Venice) where at present he is still teaching theory and practical work for basic courses and for advanced courses. Since 1985 he has started tossing pizza for his pizza customers and this is how Acrobatic Pizza and Free Style was born. In 1987 he created “the Acrobatic Patrol”, and since 2005 he is head of the acrobatic team “Pizza Shock Team”, made up by 5 people. He won several pizza prizes among which the European Pizza Championship, the World Pizza Championship in Salsomaggiore Terme and 2 times the World Pizza Games in Las Vegas.

Bertuzzo

FOR THE DOUGH:

p. 39

Radicchio and Rump steak pizza

Multigrain flour, water, salt, extra virgin olive oil and mother dried yeast 1Lt water 1.8-1.9kg flour W = 320 /380 2-10g dried yeast 2g malt 50g salt 50g virgin olive oil —

METHOD: 1st Phase Place into the mixer 1 lt of water, half of the yeast, half of the malt and 1.2 kg of flour. Mix together and leave to rest inside the mixer at a temperature of 18-20°C for approx. 8 – 12 hours until it has tripled in size. 2nd Phase The mixer should be switched off; add the remaining yeast and malt and then turn on the mixer. After a few minutes add a little of the remaining flour, the salt, and oil. When all of these are completely amalgamated, add the remaining flour. Place the dough onto a work surface, cover with nylon sheeting and leave to rest for 15-30 minutes. Make the ball shape, place into the trays and put them into the fridge at a temperature of 2-4°C to be used after at least 24 hours.

FOR THE TOPPING: Porcino mushroom cream, made with sauté garlic and fine parsley Fresh uncooked Fior di latte mozzarella slices Medium raw cooked rump-steak cut into thin slices Lightly boiled radicchio leaves Porcino mushroom slices Sakura cress

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pizza e pasta italiana

2Gemignani Tony

Guanciale and Quail Egg

This pizza takes bacon and eggs to a whole new place— California, where the bacon becomes rich, flavorful guanciale (bacon made from hog cheeks or jowls) and the eggs come from our state bird. Throw in some potatoes, and you’ve got a whole brunch on a pizza!

THE PIZZA: 1 (13-ounce/370-gram) ball Multigrain Dough (see accompanying recipe) 1 part flour mixed with 1 part semolina, for dusting 1/2 teaspoon (0.5 grams) ground dried lavender 2 tablespoons (28 grams) fine sea salt 1 (3-ounce/85-gram) white potato, 2 inches in diameter 7 ounces (200 grams) whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (1-3/4 cups) 0.6 ounce (18 grams) thinly sliced guanciale 1 ounce (30 grams) thinly sliced cured chorizo, preferably Fra’ Mani 3 quail eggs 1/4 cup (55 grams) fromage blanc 1 teaspoon (5 grams) crushed Calabrese peppers Fresh rosemary, minced, for sprinkling

Gemignani has had a passion for the pizza industry since 1991. His humble beginnings began at his brother’s acclaimed Pyzano’s Pizzeria in Castro Valley. Fresh out of high school, Tony took on the task of a pizza thrower and soon began entertaining the restaurant crowds with his wily tricks. A few years later, he entered into his first pizza throwing competition in Las Vegas and quickly became the top pizza thrower in the world. Since his days at his brother’s pizzeria, Gemignani has received a number of accolades for his impressive pizza making and throwing skills. He is president of the World Pizza Champions; the first and only Triple Crown winner for baking at the International Pizza Championships in Lecce, Italy; and, his most prestigious title to date, the 2007 World Champion Pizza Maker at the World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy, where he was the first American and non-Neapolitan victor. He has appeared on popular shows like Gemignani also received his Master credentials from the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli and is the proprietor of the International School of Pizza where he certifies chefs from around the world. His most impressive accolade to date is being named the official U.S. Ambassador of Neapolitan Pizza by the city of Naples, a prestigious title only given to three people in the entire world. In 2011 and 2012 Tony won two world titles in cooking, making him an 11 time world champion. In 2014, Tony released The Pizza Bible, the definitive book on pizza. Tony was also inducted into the Guinness Book of World Records three times two for creating the largest pizza, as well as the most consecutive rolls across the shoulders, a unique throwing trick which involves rolling the pizza dough along the back of the shoulders.

p. 41

3Cozzolino Pasquale Basic Neapolitan dough mix Pizza Ribalta

Born and raised in Naples, Pasquale Cozzolino has always had a passion for cooking. He started at the age of 15, this early experience fueled his passion which emerged as an early exploration of the restaurant business. From pasta to traditional Neapolitan pizzas he has always been fascinated by the art of cooking. Chef Cozzolino was a student of Gaetano Esposito, who is the great-grand-nephew of the inventor of the renowned Neapolitan Pizza Margherita. In fact, Chef Cozzolino uses pizza recipes that are 200 years old and bold in flavors. He honors the history of Neapolitan cuisine and he is proud of his region. The quality of food is of the highest importance to Chef Cozzolino and he only uses the best ingredients to cook. He mixes his own talent to tradition and this combination enhances the taste of his dishes, one of the many secrets to his success.

Fried zucchini Buffallo cheese ricotta with safron

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pizza e pasta italiana

Castelliforni Via Fortebraccio, 33, 00176 Roma +39 06 2170 0173 www.castelliforni.it

Professional Innovative Solutions Innovation and craft tradition are the concepts that express the best identity of the brand Castelliforni, an historic Italian company specialized in the production of professional ovens for pizzeria and pastry, a sector in which - in 50 years - has acquired an authoritative leadership and prestigious, (national and international) , representing as a proud Italian entrepreneurial excellence. in the world. Born in the 70s, in a small workshop in Rome, in which the founder Guido Castelli applying its experience and some good technical solutions, he built his first model of oven, initiating an intense professional history with challenging and important choices goals. A growth that gradually led to the creation of an enterprise solid, competitive and able to express a significant production capacity. The continuity of the company is now guaranteed by Elio and Emilio Castelli, who, since young , pledged to lead his father's business, with the same seriousness and passion. Modern catering requires increasingly targeted technical solutions and effective in the control and management of the cooking process, not only to achieve efficiency and productivity, but also to ensure an adequate compliance with the organoleptic, nutritional and quality of the food. Skillfully interpreting these complex aspects, Castelliforni has been able to develop its activity committed substantial resources in research and innovation, paying constant attention to the evolution of the market, by incorporating the needs expressed by the most qualified and authoritative people, presenting itself as an expert contact person, responsible, reliable .

The Professionalism, the product quality and the efficiency of the services offered are the primary objective of the company philosophy, as a term of comparison in its market segment.

These aspects summarize the versatility and efficiency of the latest generation models, qualities that are having the interest and appreciation of a growing number of professionals.

The whole cycle of the production process is developed in-house, from design to construction, from assembly to testing, through to installation and technical assistance. The materials and components are carefully selected and tested.

Each model provided in mass production can be achieved with size, aesthetic and functional characteristics "tailored" to meet the specific needs of each client.

The construction is based on a strictly artisanal methods, a choice that ensures an high standard of quality and give each single oven the original single fine, unmistakable and inimitable. The production program includes a range of over 30 models, differentiated by size and configurations, in one-piece or modular structure, to one or more superimposed chambers, with powers from 4 to 30 kwh, expressly designed with temperature management methods "dedicated" for cooking optimized round pizzas, pizzas by the meter and pan-tray pizzas. All ovens respond with excellent performance to the most diverse operating environments, with technical requirements result in specific operational benefits: - Uniform heat distribution; - Rapid achievement, high strength and uniformity of the set temperature; - Product of the heat flow control; - Precise balancing and differentiated management of the three methods of heat supply (convection, radiation, conduction); - Reducing energy consumption; - Strength and solidity; - Unmistakable design.

In the current scenery, the Company looks forward with enthusiasm to the exciting new scenarios that are going out in the large field of catering, positively capturing the vitality of the younger generation of players that fit with brilliant initiatives in a constantly changing market, whose horizons expand gradually in local areas increasingly broad and interesting. A challenge to the future for which Castelliforni lays the foundation for the development of future projects and the study of new solutions able to give continuity to an history of important results, placing in the field of advanced technologies, a solid and reliable business structure, passion and renewed commitment.

just perfect tools offer great performance Advanced technological solutions and best performance in the range of professional ovens designed for the needs of modern pizzeria. 10 models with power from 6 to 12 kWh. Monobloc or modular structure, entirely stainless steel manufactured. Equipped by electromechanical and electronic command panel for the independent control of the temperature. The heating elements, arranged on the upper and lower side of the baking chamber, embedded in a high degree insulation system, ensure uniformity and heat preservation, the accurate baking control, an outstanding production capacity and energy savings.

OVENS, FURNITURE, PIZZA, BAKERY, PASTRY AND RESTAURANT PROFESSIONAL EQUIPMENT

00176 Roma (Italy) Via Fortebraccio, 33 Ph. +39 06.21700173 r.a. Fax +39 06.21701341 www.castelliforni.it info@castelliforni.it

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pizza e pasta italiana

4PepeFranco Yellow tomatoes pizza

Datterino giallo in salsa

Dried tomatoes Buffalo mozzarella cheese Grana Padano cheese 24 months old

Franco Pepe, patron of Pepe in Grani is a modern artisan with an old passion for pizza. His skills are based on the experience of three generations of master bakers, developed over the years and enriched by the passion and dedication to the preparation of the dough which has made Franco known worldwide, and has also made Caiazzo (Ce – Italy) and international reference point for lovers of the most famous “Italiana” in the world. Always active in the search for excellent and representative products from Alto Casertano (the northern part of the region) – such as the oil made with the olives from Caiazzo, cured meats from black pigs bred in this area. Franco Pepe makes his pizzas with the flavours of the region, promoting the spread of noteworthy products and producers. The skill and completeness of the pizza maker have been recognized by key figures in Italian cuisine. Pepe in grani is the new project of Franco Pepe. Since July 2012 he has left the old family Tavern to start, in October 2012, an original solo experience in the heart of the old town of Caiazzo. Pepe in Grani is the place where his desire to experiment and his experience as a passionate baker meet.

p. 45

5Palmieri Sara

is a young talent of the pizza industry, specialized in gluten free pizza recipes

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 lt of water 50 gr of salt 2 gr of yeast 1 kg of gluten free flour

Dissolve the yeast into the water, add flour a little at same and salt. Mix until the dough is omogeneous. Cut the dough into smaller dough balls, with the help of olive oil. Wrap it up with film.

Happy Coeliac Pizza

Since I was a child I grew up in the world of pizza and restauration, this was my brothersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; passion. In 2010 I started working in his pizzeria and after a few years I found out I was coeliac. At the beginning it was a nightmare for me because my whole life was made of gluten. At a certain point, always pushed by my brother, I decided not to give in to this disease but to exploit it, making it my strong point. In November 2015 I took part to Gluten Free Expo in Rimini, Italy, placing 2nd. In April 2016 I was 3rd in the World Pizza Championship in Parma for the Gluten Free Category. Later on I decided to move to Paris to start working for a new pizza shop concept, just to try myself. The concept is called Big Mama and I work in the Biglove caffĂ¨. The shop also offers gluten free recipes as well as pizza. After one year of research with my brother, I came up with a gluten free recipe that everybody enjoyes in the world.

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year 2017

pizza e pasta italiana

6Arvblom Mike FOR THE TOPPING: Bearnaise Sauce

PIZZA DOUGH: 1 kg flour 2 teaspoon sea salt 2 g fresh yeast 1/2 teaspoon golden sugar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 700 ml warm water

Mike started baking pizzas when he was 13, helping out his father after school and weekends. At the age of 14 he got upgraded to pizza maker on the frontline . He is a second generation pizza maker, his father learned to make pizzas in Italy in the late 60s. Bringing his pizza knowledge to Sweden in the early 70s, he is one of the 20 first people to start a pizza shop in Sweden, today there are over 2500+ pizza shops in Sweden. Pizza is his greatest passion. So he decided to expand his pizza knowledge by going to the world pizza championship in Las Vegas. His ideas were simple donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think about winning, just as a learning education, he simply wanted to see what the rest of the word was up to. He never thought he would win, but he was lucky and got a1st place in the world (international) (open II region).

1 tablespoon plus 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes 3 tablespoons minced shallots sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar 2 large egg yolks 1 tablespoon (or more) fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon Beef tenderloin with bearnaise

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NEW GUIDE BY GAMBERO ROSSO TO PROCLAIM THE BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

ABROAD. THESE RESTAURANTS ARE CAPABLE OF SPREADING THE ITALIAN GASTRONOMIC CULTURE AND THE MADE IN ITALY PRODUCTION. SOME RESTAURANTS HAVE ALREADY BEEN AWARDEE. THEY ARE GREAT AMBASSADORS OF OUR

d. l r o W e h t SUPPORT EXPORTATIONS. n i s t ran u a t s e R n a i l a t I Top FOOD AND WINE SECTOR AND THEY

Real and

authentic Italian The new generation of Italian chefs abroad The Italian cuisine in the World is living a golden period, with many high level openings that have impressed a clear change of gear, in terms of offer, research, availability of raw material, training of personnel and innovation. Different economic and managerial environments have made space for a new generation of young chefs, true and real wanderers, who are improving the level of the Italian cuisine abroad.

The role of Italian restaurants abroad If food and wine export, says Coldiretti, has witnessed a growth of 79% in 10 years - reaching the record digit of 36, 8 billion euro in 2015 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a great part of this merit has to be given to Italians working abroad: enterpreneurs, chefs, wine connoseurs, waiters. They are the most effective antidote to the Italian sounding phenomenum.

cuisine abroad

Beijng,

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ER E

IT AL

IS TH

IAN FO

by Caterina Orlandi

YO U

CAN EAT

E LL E E XC

Mio Restaurant at Fourseason Hotel

io, meaning “my” in Italian, lives up to its name by making guests feel perfectly at home in a welcoming venue with open kitchens and an authentic pizza oven. Modern Italian cuisine is its specialty, including pizzas, pastas and aperitivo dishes. Mio’s Chef de Cuisine, Aniello Turco, has an exceptional culinary pedigree. He was already learning his way around the kitchen of his parents’ restaurant when he was just 13 years old. Chef Aniello always knew he wanted to create culinary masterpieces, and embarked on a journey of working in Michelin-starred restaurants of masters such as Alain Ducasse in Tuscany, Paris, and London.

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“After the experience in London, I wanted to be pushed more,” says Chef Aniello. “What I had accomplished by myself before was not enough. I decided to work in the best restaurant in the world.” Before he joined Mio, he was working in the two Michelin-starred Noma, in Copenhagen for four years. Mio's menu is inspired by the freshest available produce, evolving constantly to showcase each season's finest ingredients.

Premium Mediterranean cuisine makes a starred appearance on the menu, ranging from appetizers like Canadian Mussel “Fresella” and Slow-Cooked Japanese Egg, to main courses such as Short Rib with glazed asparagus and autumn black truffle, to Alaskan Black Cod with Black Caviar and “Mc Wagyu”. With its authentic pizza oven, Mio’s pizza is an important component of the menu as well. Offerings include Crudo Parma Ham, Buffalo Mozzarella, Tomato, and Arugula Pizza, among others. Additionally incorporated is a Bruscetta Bar offering a daily selection of freshbaked bruscettas.

“We are obsessive about gastronomic details and fundamental techniques that are the foundation of delivering the very best produce of the earth to the table. Our aim is to optimize the flavours of exceptionally fresh produce and create dishes that harmonize with great wines,” says Chef Aniello. For essential authenticity, the flour used to make pizza at Mio is imported from Napoli in Italy, the birthplace of pizza, while fine Italian meats such as prosciutto and salami are imported from across Italy. All pasta and ravioli is handmade from imported Italian flour, as well.

titolo della rubrica

“Everything is carefully chosen, not only as the best, but also in respect to the method of cultivation and seasonality at its perfect moment.

As a dessert lover, Chef Aniello highly recommends the traditional and authentic Italian desserts at Mio, especially the Sicilian orange soufflé with cocoa bean jelly and Tahiti vanilla ice cream, as well as the fabulous Mio’s Tiramisu. Service is in a relaxed yet attentive Mediterranean style, creating an atmosphere of comfort and simplicity, ensuring guests feel at ease and at home.

A decadent selection of classical and designer cocktails is also available at Mio Bar, where bartenders are trained in creative cocktails, including sumptuously flavoured Bellinis. For Aniello, this is the future of cuisine. “It will be the new frontier in kitchens around the world,” he says. “It is completely natural transformation, without any chemicals added. Nature will be the protagonist of avant-garde cuisine.”

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RECIPES

Tortelli

WITH MUSHROOMS FERMENTED YEAST WATER AND FRESH BLUE BERRY

INGREDIENTS

Fresh pasta dough

15g

Taleggio 5g

METHOD

Yeast water 25g

For the tortelli

For the Fermented yeast water

Blue berry for plating

Parmesan cheese

10g

Take your pasta dough and make thin layer of pasta then cut with a round cutter and place a small ball of taleggio in the middle, brush with some beaten egg and fold in half and then take the 2 sides and fold them together. Cook them in a lot of boiling salted water for 4 minutes

Take one liter of water 300g of flour and 10 g of yeast and mix it togheter and let ferment for 5 days. Once fermented add 500 ml of water, whisk and freeze it. When is a block put in a cloth on a container and led defrost in the fridge slowly no squeeze it. Take the water as base of the sauce add a bit of lemon juice and butter and put the tortelli inside. Make a parmesan cream simply boiling cream and add parmesan and blend with a hand blender. A side sautee the mushrooms and place on top of the tortelli when plating togheter with the blue berry and the drops of parmesan sauce.

Cream 20g Mushrooms 30g

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RECIPES

BlackCod INGREDIENTS

Black cod

180g

WITH BARLEY WATER CAVIAR AND RED PEPPERS

Caviar 30g Bell peppers Fermented barley water

1kg 200ml

Butter 80g Lemon juice 40g

METHOD

Make a juice of the peppers with a juicer and cook off till became a sticky paste, layer down as a thin paper sheet and dry it out for 8 hours, once dry use directly for plating. Cook the black cod very slowly in the barley water for 9 to 11 min and place some caviar on the top once cooked for the salty flavuor. Take the cooking water and emulsify with butter lemon juice and use as sauce.

From 1803 Molino Pagani is among the best known Italian companies for the production of wheat flour. The secret to produce high quality flour is the full knowledge of all phases of production, from selection grains to the slow and gentle grinding with the latest machineries. The company works every day 550 tons of wheat flour obtaining traditional,n wholemeal and special flours for pizza,pasta and bread. In collaboration with highly skilled staff the company has developed a complete line of flours and mix ready to use and easy to work with excellent results for taste, crispness and digestibility.

Molino Pagani Spa

Molino Pagani Spa: Via dei Molini 38 - 26812 Borghetto Lodigiano (LO) Italia Tel. +39 0371 29011 - Fax +39 0371 899035 - export@molinopagani.it e garatti@molinopagani.it www.molinopagani.com - www.molinopagani.it

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RECIPES

Magritte's Apple

Infuse the Earl Grey tea in 2 liters of water at 80 degrees Celsius for 15 minutes, add the bergamot juice and set aside. Peel the apples and remove the seeds and core. With an ice-cream scoop, scoop out insides to make 4 perfect shells. Using a vacuum machine, compress the apple shells in the tea/bergamot mixture 3 times. In a pan, roast the diced vegetables in oil for 5 minutes; add the chopped herbs and the capers, set aside. Finely grind the meat and the lard together and add the soy sauce to the sautĂŠed vegetables. Season with Parmesan and fill the apple shell. Vacuum-seal the filled apples with homemade smoked butter, each in its own bag, and cook at 70 degrees Celsius for 4 hours.

for the homemade smoked butter 1 lt of cream 200 gr dry hay

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PORTIONS

for the pork & apple glaze 2 kg pork bones 6 pig ears, rinsed and trimmed 100 gr extra virgin olive oil 125 gr unsalted butter 2 kg diced pork shoulder 800 gr finely chopped onions 600 gr peeled and finely chopped carrots 20 gr garlic 15 gr lemon thyme Apple trimmings Preheat the oven at 200 degrees Celsius. Spread out the bones on a roasting tray and roast until golden and brown, turning frequently. Deglaze the roasting pan, reserve the juices and set aside. In the meantime, slice the pig ears into strips and heat half of the olive oil and half of the butter in a large pressure cooker. Once, the butter starts to foam, fry the diced pork shoulder and pig ears in batches until golden brown. Remove from the pan and set aside. Heat the remaining olive oil and butter in a pan.

Add in onions and carrots. Sweat until softened, then add the garlic and cook for 5 minutes, add the roasted bones, caramelized pork shoulder and pig ears to pressure cooker, followed by 4 liters of cold water. Bring the stock to a simmer, skimming off all the impurities. Add the lemon thyme and apple skin. Stir again before securing the lid of the pressure cooker. Cook for 2 hours. Allow the pressure cooker to depressurize and stock to cool slightly before opening the lid. Pass the stock through a fine-mesh sieve, refrigerate in a blast freezer. Remove the conceded fat on the surface of the stock. Place in a pot and reduce, skimming off all impurities.

for the apple 4 bag of Earl Grey tea Bergamot juice 4 medium green apples 100 gr each of celery, onions, leeks and carrots, all diced 80 gr diced celeriac 10 gr tender sancho leaves 15 parsley leaves and stems 20 gr lemon thyme 50 gr unsalted Pantelleria capers 400 gr Iberico pork neck (or black foot pork neck) 50 gr Colonnata lard 90 gr low-salt soy sauce 50 gr Parmesan Reggiano 24 months homemade smoked butter (see next recipe)

Put the hay in a large pot and light it on fire. Extinguish the fire by pouring the cream on it and leave in the fridge to rest for 10 minutes. When the temperature has cooled down, pass cream through a fine-mesh sieve and blend in a mixer for around 15 minutes. Over-whip the smoked cream until it naturally split in two elements, the buttermilk and the smoked butter.

for the roasted celeriac puree 500 gr celeriac 100 gr extra virgin olive oil 40 gr bergamot juice Salt Wash the celeriac, peel and keep the skin. Wrap the whole celery root in aluminum foil with oil and salt, and roast in the oven for around 45 minutes at 200 degrees Celsius. When the root looks soft and caramelized, take the pulp and blend with bergamot juice in a Thermomix. for the celeriac wood chips Celeriac skin from the trimmings of the puree 1 lt soybean oil Salt Clean the skin and boil in hot water for 20 minutes. When the skin is soft, dry for two hours at 70 degrees Celsius. Heat the oil to 230 degrees Celsius and deep-fry the celery root skin. Chervil leaves and stems, for garnish.

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SPIRAL DOUGH MIXERS

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�he best ― amatriciana pasta ― in Italy

According to chef Massimo Bottura the best amatriciana pasta in Italy is made by Angelo Troiani of Convivio Restaurant in Rome. by Caterina Orlandi

Amatriciana – unfortunately today has come into fashion again due to the series of events which have struck the municipality of Amatrice together with a vast territory around of it - is a kind of pasta obtained by using precise raw material, put together in a harmonious way. Naturally, not all pasta is the same, even if very delicious and made with high quality Italian flour, there are also different types of cheek lard, even if very good and the same thing could be said for Pecorino Cheese and tomatoe sauce. It is even true that “each to his own taste”, like saying that the diversity of the different sensorial sensitivities makes one like a certain recipe better than another even if with the same ingredients, even if both are excellent. Together with many opinions given along with time by the people who have tried this dish, it has to be found also chef Bottura’s, the multiple award winning chef of Osteria Francescana in Modena, who after trying many amatricana in many different restaurants says the best is made by chef Angelo Troiani

of Convivio Restaurant in Rome. So, let’s see how Angelo Troiani prepares this dish. The famous Roman chef uses different tricks, in particular cruncky cheek lard. The chef of Convivio codified his version of amatriciana 21 years ago, still when cheek lard was used not cruncky. Nowadays, cruncky cheek lard is used for different preparations. Angelo Troiani wished to enhance the perfumes and the organoleptic characteristics that were already in the plate, the cruncky lard underlines the usage of this ingredient, it enhances it and it plays a role in the contrast of textures. With the same spirit, chef Troiani added a notch of garlic in this dish, a little bit of onion, red wine vinager. Angelo Troiani states, that tradition is a fact and it has to be respected but tradition doesn’t stand still, it evolves. If a chef can change recipes, by enhancing it or even improving it, than it will be impossible to go back. Taste and the approval of the public lay down the law.

According to the Roman chef the pillars of an excellent and true Amatriciana are precisely three, as follows: 1 - The cheek lard is fundamental. It is necessary to know its origin, its quality and the aging degree. Troiani ages the lard himself and he uses it only if it is ready. A well aged lard can be easely recognized by the skin, it has to be wrinkled and dry. 2 - Pecorino cheese has to be truly Roman and above all at the point in aging where it can be used, because if too fresh tastes only like salt. Also in these case the quality of the product is given by the product itself. 3 – Tomatoes – chef Troiani says – could be both fresh or peeled. This is the most difficult part, because fresh tomatoes change from season to season, it depends from the quality of the vegetable, by the farmer and by the area of production. So, it is really complicated to make a blend and it has to be formulated every time to find the same taste. Without one of these ingredients and without the necessary care it would be difficult to be able to cook an Amatriciana that is worthy of the name.

Prodotti alimentari di Alta qualità distribuiti da più di trent’anni alle migliori aziende del settore sono la garanzia della competenza e dell’assoluta serietà dell’azienda Sanfelici. Rispettando i più elevati standard qualitativi l’azienda affida la produzione dei suoi prodotti a realtà specializzate in grado di selezionare e controllare personalmente le materie prime, di altissima qualità, che verranno trasformate in ottimi prodotti gastronomici distribuiti da Sanfelici direttamente a ristoranti, bar, trattorie, pizzerie, osterie. Più di tremila contatti in continua crescita sottolineano la professionalità e la puntualità di una ditta che con un ottimo rapporto qualità/prezzo cerca di promuovere giornalmente la cultura del food & beverage nel mondo. Accurata selezione e continua ricerca sono le parole chiave per il successo di Sanfelici.

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FLOUR

From grain to flour Quality is the goal

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â&#x20AC;&#x153; Quality is mandatory because this is what makes the difference, between a product that is controlled and one that is not controlled.â&#x20AC;? W

e have always been of the opinion that the work of a professional magazine has the main objective of teaching and giving news to the reader, in order to give as much tools as possible to choose objectively for the positive outcome of once company, Pizza e Pasta Italiana starts from this issue an informative path about grains and, in the following months, on flour for pizza. Enjoy the reading!

by Dr. Alessia Pagotto Technologist

Cereals have always been known as essential elements as human food resource and in the country of the Mediterranean diet where the culture of pasta and breast plays a big role, wheat plays the part of the lion. This cereal is part of the family of Graminacee and to the Triticum type, of which we can find different species, two of which have a great importance from their marketing point of view, in other words soft grain (Triticum Aestivum), that has soft and crumbly grains and hard grain (Triticum Durum) characterized by hard and glassy grains. From the milling of soft grain, farmed in the center north of Italy, it is obtained soft and white flours used for the production of bread, pizza and cakes, whereas from the from the milling of wheat of hard grain, farmed in the center south of Italy, it is obtained yellow rough grain flour that is used mainly for the preparation of pasta. For the production of these flours the Italian mills donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mill exclusively the national grains ( exception for the grain is certified as Italian), but they collect also other grain both EU or non EU. The purchase of grains is necessary when the mill is not able to find Italian grains with precise technological traits, this is the case for Manitoba grain (cultivated in Canada) or for North Spring (cultivated in USA) particularly recommended for the production of strong flours with a high content of gluten and high index

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FLOUR value ( this is the alveograph index that represents the strength of a certain type of flour). “Good flours are obtained from good grains”, this is why mills know that stocking a good raw material is a crucial step, that affects all the following productions. It is of vital importance to choose the best grains, both national and foreign, so that the legal requirement and the needs of the market are always met. Technically, once wheat arrives at the mill, its transport conditions – by ship or by truck -must be verified. The person in charge of unloading the goods must make sure of the adequate health conditions of the transport and the possible usage

of fumigants and pesticides must be reported and later on a sample of the goods must be taken and analyzed by the quality check laboratory both on a sanitary and on a market point of view. Once all these preliminary checks are overcome, wheat is suitable to be unloaded and hince it can start its transformation process. The following phases of accepting the raw material are crucial and this is why the quality control must be coordinated with the production responsible to verify that the implemented system constantly meets a proper standard level. Every day flour going out from the mill undergoes this complex process, which

is necessary to grant final consumer that high level of food quality that identifies healthy and safe products and the technological quality that defines their destination of use. As a matter of fact a certain type of flour that proves to be excellent to make cookies is more than likely not used to make panettone, as much as a very strong flour that produces rigid dough mixes cannot be used when making pizza. Only through dedication, research, professionalism and the collaboration among different roles within a company, quality thought as the right balance between food safety and technological value can be reached.

Evaluation of the quality of flour

Examined parameters

equipment / method used

ELECTROLYTIC WEIGHT

Grain weigher

PROTEIN CONTENT

NIR analyzer and Kjeldahl method

PROTEIN QUALITY

Sedimentation index: Zeleny Test for soft wheatand sedimentation test sds for durum wheat

GLUTEN CONTENT

Glutomatic

QUALITY INDEX (gluten index)

Gluten index: evaluates the gluten mass passing througha small sieve after centrifugation and Glutograph, Currencythe time of resistance to torsion of the gluten

QUANTITY OF AMYLASE

Falling index Hagberd (falling number) and Amilografo

RHEOLOGICAL PROPERTIES Analysis to be made afterconditioning and grindingof the grain.

Amilografo Alveografo Chopin: W (force), P (toughness), L (extensibility) Brabender farinograph: water absorption, development time,stability, capable of dropping or softening

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ITALIAN PRODUCT ITALIAN TECHNOLOGY ITALIAN TASTE Year after year we develop our products with passion and attention. We guarantee quality, innovative and cutting-edge products that allow our customers greater competitiveness in an increasingly competitive market.

WWW.MAMFORNI.IT M.A.M. snc • Via C. Angiolieri, 28-34 • 41123 Modena (Italy) Tel. +39 059 330219 • 330189 Fax +39 059 334521 • mam@mamforni.it malagutimam

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THE FASCINATING STORIES OF THE ITALIAN TOMATO VARIETIES

p. 69

by Giampiero Rorato

he tomato plant arrived in Italy from Central America in the latter years of the 1500s. The climate of southern Europe and especially Italy was so favourable to the cultivation of the ‘pomme d’amour’ or ‘apple of love’ that the vegetable soon became one of the most popular elements in Mediterranean cuisine. Tomato based sauces soon become essential condiments for pasta and were even added to more traditional dishes to become ‘new’ classics such as ‘amatriciana’. There are many varieties of tomato in Italy with sub types within each. Italy cultivates most of them so lets put things in order. Naples and Campania are rightly associated with Italian tomatoes. They first were brought here by the Spanish and this is also the territory where the industrial preservation and transformation of the tomato began.

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San Marzano One of the most popular varieties is ‘San Marzano’ (Pomodoro S.Marzano dell’Agro Sarnese-Nocerino DOP), a long shaped tomato mostly grown in the zone of Salerno. They are considered best for creating a sauce. Our small guide to the tomato from the promotional authorities of the Valle del Sarno suggests a visit to local restaurants and trattoria in the towns of Angri, Castel San Giorgio, Corbara, Nocera (inferiore & Superiore), Pagani, San Marzano sul Sarno, San Valentino Torio, Sant’Egidio del Monte Albino, Sarno, Scafati and Siano. You should be asking for ragù ‘pippei’ with tagliolini or a salad with pomodorino from Corbara. Consorzio di tutela del Pomodoro S. Marzano dell’Agro Sarnese-Nocerino www.consorziopomodorosanmarzanodop.it Around Vesuvius you’ll find ‘Pomodorino Vesuviani’. Like San Marzano it is certified DOP so guaranteeing its location of cultivation and the rich lava soils of the volcano. It is quite small, sweet, very red and can be recognised by a tear drop shape at each end. They are picked during the summer in little bunches called ‘Piennolo’. View the above video to get a feel for the territory and cultivation. In Sicily the most famous variety is Pachino (Pomodoro di Pachino IGP). They are small and round, as are ‘Ciliegino di Pachino’ or cherry tomatoes which we are probably all famiiar with. They both taste sweet and are often combined with seafood dishes, as well as being ideal for decorative effects on salads and side dishes.

Pachino Consorzio di tutela IGP del Pomodoro di Pachino http://pomodoro.igppachino.it Still in south Italy, there is an interesting variety called Camone from Sardinia. They tend to be crunchy and feature in strong fish salads with onions and crustaceans, or lobster pasta dishes. Tomato varieties do exist further north. In Tuscany you can find the Pisanello. Yes, that’s the same name of the Renaissance painter. It has a flattish round form and is used for many dishes from the region such as the classic “bruschetta” with garlic and olive oil. Another Tuscan variety is the wrinkled tomato or “Grinzoso”. Also known as “Costoluto Fiorentino”, it is a bit dry and mostly used for salads. Even Venice can call a variety its own. Grown in the unique atmoshere of the lagoon, it is called the Nasone del Cavallino. Not a reference to a horse’s muzzle but a place called Cavallino Tre Porti located near Venice and Polesine. The colour starts from green up to red. Do seek it out in the Rialto market. Finally, we’ll mention here the ‘Cuore di Bue’ or literally ‘heart of ox’ tomatoes which have also taken on the pseudonym ‘vegeterian beef steak’ as they can reach a half kilo in weight. The plant grows mainly in Liguria and Calabria. Cuore di Bue is used for fresh tomato sauce, even jams and special salads such as the ‘condiglione’ made with peppers, tuna, onions, olives and boiled eggs. Abruzzo also has its funny shape tomato within the Cuore di Bue variety known as ‘pera d’Abruzzo’ shaped like a pear.

Expertise and specialization are the main features of Dell’Oro, that from over half century produces a whole range of strong and reliable machines, completely “made in Italy” with the primary aim to help you in your work. Automatic divider and rounder moulders

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by Giampiero Rorato

Mozzarella is a southern Italian cheese traditionally made from Italian buffalo milk by the pasta filata method. Mozzarella received a Traditional Specialities Guaranteed certification from the European Union in 1998. This protection scheme requires that mozzarella sold in the European Union is produced according to a traditional recipe. The TSG certification does not specify the source of the milk, so any type of milk can be used. In Italy mozzarella made with the milk of the Italian water buffalo is an important variety. The Italian buffalo mozzarella sold as Mozzarella di Bufala Campana is protected under the EUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Protected Designation of Origin scheme and may only be produced in select locations in the regions of Campania, Lazio, Apulia and Molise. Fresh mozzarella is generally white, but may vary seasonally to slightly yellow depending on the animalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diet.

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It is a semi-soft cheese. Due to its high moisture content, it is traditionally served the day after it is made, but can be kept in brine for up to a week or longer when sold in vacuum-sealed packages. Low-moisture mozzarella can be kept refrigerated for up to a month, though some shredded low-moisture mozzarella is sold with a shelf life of up to six months. Mozzarella of several kinds is also used for most types of pizza and several pasta dishes, or served with sliced tomatoes and basil in Caprese salad. Mozzarella, derived from the Neapolitan dialect spoken in Campania, is the diminutive form of mozza (“cut”), or mozzare (“to cut off”) derived from the method of working. The term is first mentioned in 1570, cited in a cookbook by Bartolomeo Scappi, reading “milk cream, fresh butter, ricotta cheese, fresh mozzarella and milk”.

Mozzarella, recognised as a Specialità Tradizionale Garantita (STG) since 1996, is available fresh, usually rolled into a ball of 80 to 100 grams (2.8 to 3.5 oz), or about 6 cm (2.4 in) in diameter, sometimes up to 1 kg (2.2 lb), or about 12 cm (4.7 in) diameter, and soaked in salt water (brine) or whey, and other times with citric acid added, and partly dried (desiccated) its structure being more compact, and in this form it is often used to prepare dishes cooked in the oven, such as lasagna and pizza. When twisted to form a plait mozzarella is called treccia. Mozzarella is also available in smoked (affumicata) and reducedmoisture packaged varieties. “Stuffed mozzarella”, a new trend as of 2006, may feature olives or cooked or raw ham, or small tomatoes (pomodorini).

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Several variants have been specifically formulated and prepared for use on pizza, such as low-moisture Mozzarella cheese. The International Dictionary of Food and Cooking defines this cheese as “a soft spun-curd cheese similar to Mozzarella made from cow’s milk” that is “[u]sed particularly for pizzas and [that] contains somewhat less water than real Mozzarella”. Mozzarella di bufala campana is a type of mozzarella made from the milk of Italian buffalo raised in designated areas of Campania, Lazio, Apulia, Molise in Italy. Unlike other mozzarellas—50% of whose production derives from non-Italian and often semi-coagulated milk—it holds the status of a protected designation of origin (PDO 1996) under the European Union Fior di latte (written also as one word), is made from fresh pasteurized or unpasteurized cow’s milk and not water buffalo milk, which greatly lowers its cost. Outside Italy “mozzarella” not clearly labeled as deriving from water buffalo can be presumed to derive from cow milk Low-moisture part-skim mozzarella, widely used in the food-service industry, has a low galactose content, per some consumers’ preference for cheese on pizza to have low or moderate browning. Some pizza cheeses derived from skim mozzarella variants were designed not to require aging or the use of starter. Others can be made through the direct acidification of milk.

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Mozzarella di bufala is traditionally produced solely from the milk of the domestic buffalo. A whey starter is added from the previous batch that contains thermophilic bacteria, and the milk is left to ripen so the bacteria can multiply. Then, rennet is added to coagulate the milk. After coagulation, the curd is cut into large, 1”–2” pieces, and left to sit so the curds firm up in a process known as healing. After the curd heals, it is further cut into 3/8”–1/2” large pieces. The curds are stirred and heated to separate the curds from the whey. The whey is then drained from the curds and the curds are placed in a hoop to form a solid mass. The curd mass is left until the pH is at around 5.2–5.5, which is the point when the cheese can be stretched and kneaded to produce a delicate consistency—this process is generally known as pasta filata. According to the Mozzarella di Bufala trade association, “The cheese-maker kneads it with his hands, like a baker making bread, until he obtains a smooth, shiny paste, a strand of which he pulls out and lops off, forming the individual mozzarella.” It is then typically formed into cylinder shapes or in plait. In Italy, a “rubbery” consistency is generally considered not satisfactory; the cheese is expected to be softer.

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THE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

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F Pubblication of the book The Neapolitan pizza by Dr. Paolo Masi, professor of Food Processes Engineering at the Università degli Studi di Napoli Federico II and Dr. Annalisa Romano, manager of the center of Food Innovation and Development in Food Industry at the Università degli studi di Napoli Federico II

rom popular food to global icon. In these two words lies the story of pizza, the flag of Italian food worldwide. Throughout the centuries, the art of the pizzaiuoli has produced something, which has become a global dish and is integrated in the food habit of many cultures. At first sight pizza and to the careless observer, pizza might appear to be almost a banal product: a disk of leavened dough, garnished to taste according to the flare of pizzaiolo, baked for a very short time in a wood-fired, refractory oven. Reality is much more complex; flour, water, yeast and salt are among the most common ingredients found in a kitchen and yet their nature, the mutual interactions, thus the sequence with which they are blended together, crucially influence the properties of the mix; time, humidity and the techniques utilized in all of the different phases of preparation and baking will reflect upon the characteristics of the pizza; the appearance, the aroma, the taste and its digestibility. A little nuance, a detail, a “secret” will ensure the uniqueness of a seemingly ordinary product, identifying the pizzaiolo who prepared it. The production process of “Pizza Napoletana” consists of a limited number of phases: preparation of the dough, leavening, preparation and shaping of the dough loaves, obtaining of the disk of dough and garnishing, baking in a wood fired oven made from refractory bricks. Like all artisanal activities, pizza making follows a well-defined sequence of procedures from raw materials to the finished product. Unlike industrially manufactured products it is not possible to rigorously systematize all process conditions. Every pizzaolo, based on experience gained over time or acquired orally, performs each procedure according to his own personal approach. He adapts raw materials to these conditions, or the conditions to the raw materials available to him at any given time, in order to optimize the procedures and give the final product (pizza) the characteristics he considers optimal. For instance, the water/flour ratio the time and method of mixing, the raising time and temperature, can vary from pizzaiolo to pizzaiolo. And that’s not all! The moment in which the salt is added, the amount of the yeast used to form the dough, the maturation time of the dough loaves and the temperature at which they are stored, differ by just enough to give the final product its uniqueness. The preparation of the dough loaves alone can be very different: some stretch the dough

with regular movements from the inside outwards; others alternate fast compression stages to equally fast stretching stages. Finally, the baking process itself may differ from pizzaiolo to pizzaiolo: some prefer to expose the pizza to an intense thermal shock in the early stages of baking and then continue the baking process less aggressively; others work in the opposite way, preferring a less energetic baking in the initial phase and then finishing the baking process with an intense dose of heat. The result is increasingly varied, providing consumers with a wide range of flavors and sensory characteristics. Some have a more pronounced rim, others have a greater number of bubbles, some have larger bubbles, some are more filling than others, some softer and more compact. You might say there is one to suit everybody’s fancy and perhaps this infinite variability in sensory characteristics is the key to the success of this product of Neapolitan cuisine, which has always been much loved and imitated worldwide. Given the global success achieved by this product and the degree of excellence reached by artisan pizzaioli everywhere, even outside of the country where this simple but delicious product was born and reached its popularity, one wonders why we would want to observe it with the rigour of a scientific approach. In 2010 the European Commission carried out a regulation defining the production of Neapolitan Pizza TSG. This may seem like the arrival point of a journey which begun with the first historical evidence of the appearance of this product, acknowledging a specificity connected to a well-defined territory. The regulation also sheds a light over the authentic genesis of the Neapolitan Pizza, now widespread across the world, and the many other origins, which have been in time associated with it, defining the procedures to be followed in the preparation of Neapolitan Pizza. By scientifically analyzing the production process of the Neapolitan Pizza, the regulation provides an excellent starting point in order to truly understand which rules should be followed in the preparation of pizza according to traditional Neapolitan cuisine and which, on the other hand, are merely suggestions resulting from other considerations with no scientific evidence.

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THE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

The Neapolitan Pizza TSG Neapolitan Pizza is the result of few, simple steps performed by master craftsmen who are able, thanks to their experience and sensitivity, to give the product the aromatic and structural characteristics and the flavor that make it unique and recognizable, although apparently prepared with the same procedures used by others. This paper, the aim of which is to provide a scientific explanation of the events that occur during the preparation of the Neapolitan Pizza, will begin by looking the Commission Regulation (EU) No 97/2010 of 4 February 2010, including the Neapolitan Pizza in the register of Confectionery, bread, pastry, cakes, biscuits and other bakers’ wares which will be quoted below in its entirety. “Pizza Napoletana” TSG is a round product baked in the oven with a variable diameter not exceeding 35 cm and raised rim and the central part is garnished. The central part is 0.4 cm thick, with a tolerance of + - 10%, and the rim is 1-2 cm think. The overall pizza must be tender. Elastic and easily foldable into four. “Pizza Napoletana” TSG is distinguished by a raised rim, a golden colour characteristic of products baked in the oven, and a tenderness to touch and to taste; by a garnished centre dominated by the red of the tomatoes, perfectly mixed with oil and, depending on the ingredients used, the green of the oregano and the white of the garlic; by the white of the mozzarella slabs which are laid either closer together or further apart, and the green of the basil leaves, which are lighter or darker depending on the baking.

The consistency of “Pizza Napoletana” must be tender, elastic, and easely foldable; the product is easy to cut; it has a characteristic, savoury taste given by the raised rim, which has a taste typical of bread which has risen and been baked well, mixed with the acidic flavor of the tomatoes and the aroma of the oregano, garlic and basil and the flavor of baked mozzarella. At the end of the baking process the pizza emits a characteristic aroma which is deliciously fragrant; the tomatoes, which have lost only their excess water, remain compact and solid; the “Mozzarella di Bufala Campana AOP” or “ Mozzarella STG” are melted on the surface of the pizza; the basil, garlic and oregano develop an intense aroma and do not look burnt. The basic raw materials distinguishing “Pizza Napoletana” are: common wheat flour, brewer’s yeast, drinkable natural water, peeled tomatoes and/or small fresh tomatoes “pomodorini”, sea salt or kitchen salt and extra virgin olive oil. Other ingredients which may be used in the preparation of “Pizza Napoletana” are: garlic and oregano; Mozzarella di Bufala Campana AOP, fresh basil and “Mozzarella STG”.

Table 1. Soft wheat flour classification W 220-380 P/L 0.50 to 0.70 Absorption 55-62 Stability 4-12 Value Index E10 max.60 Falling Number (Hagberg index) 300-400 Dry gluten 9.5 to 11 g% Proteins 11 to 12.5%

The preparation of “Pizza Napoletana” exclusively comprises the phases of work described below, to be carried out in a continuous cycle on the same commercial premises.

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THE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

Preparation of the dough Blend the flour, water, salt and yeast. Pour a little of water into the dough mixer, dissolve in a quantity of between 50 and 55 gr of sea salt, add 10% of the prescribed total quantity of flour, then add 3 g of brewer’s yeast. Start up the dough mixer and gradually add 1.8 kg of W 220-230 flour until the desired consistency is reached, which is defined as the “dough point”. This operation should take 10 minutes. The dough must be worked in a dough mixer, preferably one with a dough hook, for 20 minutes at low speed, until a single compact mass is obtained. The quantity of water that flour is capable of absorbing is very important in obtaining an optimum dough consistency. The dough should not be sticky to the touch and should b soft and elastic. The characteristics of the dough are shown in Table 2, with a tolerance for each of +/- 10%.

CMY

Dough rising process

First stage. Once it has been removed from the dough mixer, the dough is placed on a work surface in the pizzeria where it must be left for two hours, covered with a damp cloth, to prevent its surface from hardening, and a type of crust from forming as a result of the evaporation of its internal moisture. Once the two hours for the rising have passed, the next stage is the shaping of the dough loaves, which must be carried out exclusively by hand by the pizza chef. Using a spatula, a portion of the risen dough is cut off the work surface before being shaped into a loaf. For “Pizza Napoletana”, the dough loaves must weigh between 180 and 250 g. Second stage: once the loaves have been shaped, a second rising phase lasting four to six hours takes place inside food containers. This dough, which is kept at room temperature, is ready to be used within the next six hours.

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Origano is always optional on a mozzarella cheese and tomato pizza.

How to obtain a good by Patrizio Carrer

Basil on all pizzas with tomato, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better if it is added during the preparation of the tomato sauce. Plenty of basil leaves on Margherita and Napoletana pizzas. Garlic only on pizzas without mozzarella. On all pizzas without mozzarella put uncooked olive oil on top. Biological cheese, place in the oven at the end of cooking for only 15 seconds. High edges on desert pizzas and 4 formaggi. Large crust edges: cover slightly with tomato or cream.

THE IDEAL PIZZA

Italian specialities The ideal pizza must have the following characteristics:

1) Well cooked all over; 2) Not burnt, especially the edges; 3) A nice appearance and a round shape; 4) A good combination and balance of topping ingredients; 5) Not too dry or too humid but above all soft; 6) A good balance between aroma and spices; 7) Evidence the good quality of the primary products; 8) Be accompanied by the correct drink to aid good digestion; 9) A precise calorie count and balance made up of lipids, glucides and protides; 10) Always eat it hot in a pleasant, harmonious and welcoming atmosphere with Mediterranean characteristics.

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Small edges: cover as much as possible.

Never use dough balls taken straight from

Baking of only pizza base: prick and drizzle

the fridge (always room temp.).

with oil.

Never use dough balls that have less than

Burnt under pizza: don’t ever serve and

4-6 hours of leavening (direct).

remake another.

Never use dough balls that have less than

Pizza black underneath with dust: ash burnt

12-18 hours of leavening (indirect).

flour etc. pass over a cloth towel.

Use only tomato that has been pulped and

Holes in the dough disc: don’t add more

mixed with basil and a pinch of salt plus oil.

dough, close with the same dough.

Never go over one and a half times the

Open and shape the dough balls only when

weight of the dough when adding toppings.

required.

Never use raw and unprepared ingredients.

Thick pizza: increase the weight of the dough

If the pizza is too hard it’s caused by the

balls or make a smaller base.

temperature being too low in the oven:

Thin pizza: decrease the weight of the dough

remake the pizza.

ball or make a bigger base.

If the pizza is watery and not cooked properly: leave in the opening of the oven. If the pizza doesn’t rise evenly and tends to burn on the thinner parts: enlarged wrongly, uneven temperature in oven ,pizza not turned quickly enough. Edges too dark, trim the edges with a trimmer.

laNapoletana: a genuine flour, the perfect flour to make pizza like a real Neapolitan pizza chef! Try it for a perfectly developed thick and golden crust and a soft, elastic and pliable dough. Choose it to enhance the flavour of your ingredients: tomatoes, mozzarella, olive oil.

Traditional taste, today:

Uniqua

More than just Flour Everything is special in Dallagiovanna’s flours: intuition in choosing the most suitable wheats, methods of analysis and research, best tradition processes and the most avant-guard machinery. Last but not least there are the Masters of the White Art Laboratory, important professionals and teachers in the leading schools in Europe, whom with their experience are fundamental for the continuous improvement of production.

Multi-purpose flours for your products. Taste has new colours: try them all!

100% nature, 100% high quality Our wheat comes exclusively from the EU, USA and Canada, and the majority is from Piacenza”KM. 0”. We also require a wheat passport from our suppliers, stating the origin and any treatments the grains were subjected to. The grains are stored naturally, with cool air and without pesticides. We are the only mill to wash grain using potable water, and once the kernel is adequately dampened, milling is even and slow, without ever damaging the starches and protein. Finally, we implement constant Quality Control, thanks to the professionals in our Production Department, our Analysis and Research Laboratory and the White Art Masters who work in constant collaboration to render every blend the perfect Flour. WHEAT WASHING The practice of washing is – or better was – used mainly to clean the wheat and to eliminate impurities before the milling process; the flour becomes whiter and the grains can be milled in a more homogeneous way. After a first air cleaning, grains are dipped in water for some hours, according to their properties. It is a very important process, now forgotten by big companies that prefers, for financial reasons, dry cleaning followed by conveyor conditioning. The Molino Dallagiovanna, along with few other small high-quality artisan producers, considers cleaning one of the key requirements for creating a superior flour, regardless of the extra costs and profit margins.

+ Special Flours: studied and tested for any requirement - bread, pasta, shortcrust and puff pastry, big and small leavened products and pizza, also with vital wheat germ! + Gluten-Free and Lactose-Free preparations: taste and health in the same dish - bread and pizza, pasta, shortcrust, fried sweets and leavened products. + Flour mixes: discover new tastes - for pizza and for leavened products.

Nearly 200 years of milling tradition to offer you over 50 blends, approved by international quality certifications and processed with the best production methods of every era. With us, your dough will always be the best of your life.

Our Story, your Future. Everywhere.

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“Being a great pastry-chef means being committed, having staying power, being professional, being imaginative, and being forward-thinking.”

TheItalian world renowned pastry chef lginio Massari

ginio Massari was born august 29 1942 in Brescia. His mother a cook, his father a canteen manager, during his first memories we find him admiring colors, shapes and profumes …At 16 years of age he was working in a bakery in the city center for a few months. His desire to learn pushed him into going to a canton of Switzerland where, in four years, he his first patisserie and choccolaterie experience. In Budrye he has the honor and privilege of working with master Claude Gerber. Here is where he completed his first educational pathway and returned to Italy. At this time he was already requested because of his abilities and dedication. Iginio then had a serious road accident, but The forced immobility did not stop his personal dynamism nor did it stop the one of Mr. Barzetti, noted food industrialist, who, just to have him working alongside, would have him picked up at his brother’s home everyday. Bauli is where he strengthened his knowledge

on yeast dough. He returned to Brescia as manager and head pastry chef of FLLI Cervi and later on matured in two years working at Star as the technical manager of the manufactured and industrial sector form 1969 to 1971.That same year he opened the pastry shop Veneto, as his wife had desired. Iginio is intimidating as much as he is loved. He is recognized all over the world for his superior talent, his strict professional discipline and his dedication. He is also appreciated even more for his culture and honesty. Winner, since 1964, of more then 300 competitions, awards and national as well as international recognitions.

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Via Veneto, the pastry shop

naugurated in 1971. This is where Iginio Massari Created his laboratory, if not his pastry study, where, since always, he gives life to his sweet masterpieces, admired and then tasted. The taste’s harmony guides the creative inspiration. Massari’s family brings the clients on a journey full of experience for the palette. International and national specialties: cornetti, panettoni, bussolà, biscotti, torte tradizionali ed innovative, vasta gamma di cioccolato and cioccolatini. Elegant gift wrapping, done carefully by Mary, the wife, are ready to satisfy our clients courtesy of Iginio Massari. The art of the pastry-chef combines technique, precision, and passion, as well as a thorough knowledge of raw materials, topped off with a dash of creative verve. From traditional desserts through to the most innovative concoctions, one rule reigns supreme: desserts are good for the soul. Here are the ten rules of Italy’s pastry-chef supreme: Iginio Massari. Desserts are a specialist branch of the cooking profession, the objective being to concoct foodstuffs that are usually sweet, that are lovely to look at, taste delicious, are good for you and, in a word, are a delight both for the eye and for the palate.

CMY

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Massari’s top ten rules

A pastry-chef must have a detailed knowledge of, and a desire to explore, the dessert-making tradition, taking his inspiration from this knowledge to create new ideas that will appeal to his or her customers and guests. A pastry-chef studies and keeps abreast of new developments, thus contributing to the development of the profession. Innovation, whether in terms of products, tools, or method, is not seen as a defeat for the tradition, but a concrete opportunity to be harnessed as appropriate. Study provides the stimulus for growth.

A successful pastry-chef has a duty to educate his or her customers to recognize quality. He or she needs to know how to promote the fruit of his or her work, which lies in highlighting the excellence that can be achieved using artisan skills.

These days, the artisan pastry-chef also needs to be business-minded, and needs to dedicate time and attention to improvement each and every day, learning and applying management and promotional skills to his or her work.

A pastry-chef is part of the cooking profession, and must always be on the alert, constantly on the look-out for new and exciting trends in both the field, and in society as a whole.

3. 4.

10.

A pastry-chef does not see a colleague as a potential competitor but as someone with whom to share a profession and a passion. A pastry-chef has to work in uncompromisingly hygienic conditions and must use only premier quality raw materials. His or her objective is to contribute to the customers’ good health, and make them happy, for happiness can be achieved via the dessert course. The drive for quality is a constant objective. Many say that achieving absolute quality is not possible. I say that these are people who have never committed themselves totally to the serious study of how to delight the palate.

The pastry-chef’s primary objective is, and remains, that of promoting the tradition via innovation, always preparing an outstanding product made with premier materials and crafted using the latest techniques. A good pastry-chef dominates his or her materials and is not dominated by them. Right now, most exponents are in the latter category. We must never forget that “being satisfied” is the first step in a professional’s downfall. We have a vital energy that forces us to remain self-aware. Someone who is prepared to make do with being “satisfied”, is someone who has no desire to improve.

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Chocolate delight

Composition: 1) Sponge cake lightly with rum soaked 2) Crema Gianduia 3) sponge cake soaked in rum 4) Gianduia cream 5) Sponge cake soaked in rum 6) Prenz cream, dark chocolate as total coverage to weave cake 7) All around the cake decorated with chocolate 8) Decoration

This simple cake is always at the center of chocolate goodies. It is the triumph of hazelnut and bitter chocolate. The plot of the surface of the cake is similar to that of classical delight with almonds.

SPONGE CAKE Eggs - 500 g Yolks - 250 g Sugar - fit 400 g Rum Liqueur - 50 g Flour - 250 g Starch - 100 g scour Cacao - 50 g

In a saucepan heat, stirring constantly with a whisk to 50 ° C the eggs, egg yolks and sugar in a double boiler or directly on the flame and then install everything on medium speed. Incorporate in first speed the flour twice with starch and cocoa. Pour the mass in cake tins buttered and floured height of 4 cm up to occupy 2/3 abundant of the pan and bake at 180 ° C-190 ° C for 20-22 minutes with the valve open.

SOAKING IN RUM Water - 300 g Sugar - 150 g Glucose - boil 150 g Vanilla pod - No. 1 Liquor Rhum 150 g

Boil water, sugar, glucose and vanilla: Leave to cool, remove the vanilla pod and incorporate Rum.

HAZELNUT CREAM Yolks - 300 g 500 g sugar rum - 100 g Butter 1000 g Milk chocolate - 250 g Mashed hazelnut - fitted 250 g

CUSTARD Egg yolks - 500 g Sugar - mix 300 g Rice starch 80 g Cream - 500 g vanilla beans - boiled n° 2 Milk - 500 g lemon peel - 1

PRENZ CREAM Custard g 1000 550 g dark chocolate Butter 100 g Rum 50 g

Heat a pan at 80 ° C, stirring constantly with a whisk the egg yolks, sugar and rum, assembled in a planetary until completely cooled. Cream the butter with the shield, the melted chocolate and hazelnut paste. Assemble the two masses by mixing in first speed

Mix the egg yolks, sugar and starch: Boil the milk with the cream, the vanilla beans and lemon peel. Incorporate the two masses and cook.

Put the custard to 40 ° C in a mixer, stir the chocolate melted at 45 ° C, add the butter and rum. Mix for 6 minutes at maximum speed. Take the cream from mixer pour into a container, it is used when it begins to crystallize. MoVunt little in a planetary with the leaf, until obtaining a smooth and creamy mass.

Since 1950, we are millers of wheat in Borzano of Albinea (RE) and Vicofertile (PR), among the ﬁelds of Emilia, the heart of the Italian food valley. With experience, passion and technology, we create high quality ﬂours for every professional and artisanal use.

We are proud of our new “Anima Verace”, soft wheat flour type 00 special pizza with “approved” as meeting the requirements set by the official specification for the preparation of the Original Pizza Napoletana. Aroma, taste and crispiness really “verace”. Available in package of 12,5kg and 25kg.

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The true artisan

Ice-Cream

A truly genuine and nourishing food

igep ( ice-cream exhibition) holds an undisputed international leadership as trade fair for professional operators all over the world in the artisan gelato, pastry and baking sectors, together with that of coffee. This is also an unavoidable appointment for Guido Finotto, a renown Venetian professional, master baker, refined chocolate maker and producer, in the summer season, of ice-cream made following scupulously the artisan method.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have learnt the art from the Maestro from Treviso (Italy) Stefano Vianello, who in turn was taught by the famous and multiples prize-winner Pietro Scaringella in Turin, who in 2003 was the winner of the World Ice-cream championship, making tested recipes, starting with raw material of absolute quality. â&#x20AC;&#x153; Since then Guido Finotto has always been uncompromising about the quality of raw materials and he is proud of showing this to whoever pays him a visit in laboratory in Chiarano (Treviso), showing them

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what’s inside his fridges. I visited him many times last summer, while he was checking every single product, weighing all the ingredients, working with the raw materials according to precise and well known rules, placing in the end into some containers the finished ice-creams of high quality, always appreciated by a great range of customers even coming from far. What is on your opinion an artisan ice-cream? I ask him. On my opinion a certain product can be said to be artisan only if it is totally made without using industrial products and the production process starts with real raw material - milk, ricotta, eggs, cocoa, chocolate, strawberries, raisins ecc.- otherwise it should be considered as an industrial or semi industrial product, which is the same thing after all.” Guido Finotto is fanatic of quality, also when making

Ice-cream chef Guido Finotto

bread – using mother yeast, high quality flours, and for some types of bread also old grain flours and he respects strictly the leavening time – so it is for chocolate, for its production he uses only of certified cocoa. “I’m firmly convinced - he states – that it is not enough to serv a cone of ice-cream for that ice-cream to be called artisan and if it is industrial, you will never know the place of origin of the ingredients, nor when they were prepared, how they were conserved, so it is possible that many products improperly called artisan - ice-cream, sweets, biscuits, bread, ecc. – are not so good, not so healthy, not so nutrient and, above all they contain preservatives and other chemical products in abundance even if accepted by the laws. I believe every true artisan stands up for his products, giving thus widen warranty through his products.”

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picture 1

picture 4 picture 2

How to make

Ice-Cream

picture 3

I’m very curious and I ask the ice-cream chef Finotto to tell our readers how to produce a real artisan ice-cream.” “I start with what we call semi-finished product. Inside a basin I poor dextrose and lemon skin (picture 2), so I add some vanilla berries (picture 3), mix it well, then add fresh egg yolks ground raised (picture 4) and, especially during summer, you need to pay attention to the quality of eggs. These 4 products (dextrose, lemon skin, vanilla and egg yolks) must be mixed well and represent the basic ingredients to produce this type of ice-cream for which eggs are used as in Tiramisù, Malaga-Vanilla, Amaretto, ecc. What is obtained is poured into the pasteurizer (picture 5) and I bring it to 76 degrees and when we reach this temperature, the contain has to be rapidly freezed and placed into the fridge to prevent the flourishing of bacterial flora. After this phase, I go to the second step, which is the real basis of the ice cream, equally important and delicate. I pour into the pasteurizer the following ingredients, naturally in the previews, naturally according to the quantities foreseen by the recipes I follow faithful-

ly: cream, glucose, milk, dextrose, sugar, powder skinned milk, carob flour and guar (the latter two used as clot). Once it is well mixed, I bring the mixture to 76 degrees and I cool it down at + 4 and I leave it in the pasteurizer for 24 hours which is the necessary time for fats and sugar to create an excellent emulsion. At this point I start with the ice-cream base that I prepared before, I add the semifinished product with eggs, which I described earlier, invertied sugar, a little bit of liquid cream and at the end of the procedure I obtain an excellent natural ice-cream. If I want to make ricotta gelato, I add to this vanilla cream some cubes of candied orange skin, Costarica 70% dark chocolate, some powder cocoa and as aromatizer orange fresh grated skin (picture 7) and I obtain Cassata gelato (picture 8), that resembles the splendid Sicilian sweet. When I make chocolate ice-cream, as first thing I make a semifinished product with cocoa, egg yoks, dextrose, cocoa mass, water and 80% dark chocolate coating and I finish with the procedure explained before. I do the same if I want to obtain strawberry ice-cream (picture a and b). So, I tell him, do you get everything ready in your lab in Chiarano (Treviso-Italy).

“Telling the truth – he answers since I don’t have in my lab the machines for industrial companies, even ikf I produce everything at home starting with the single raw material selected by me, I need to buy two products that I cannot make at home: nuts paste (IGP Piemonte) and pistachio paste (Bronte). The rest comes all from my laboratory.” But is it possible to make the series of ice-cream I saw in your shop, having to produce bread at night? “Sure, a high level of engagement is needed, but I’m a little bit old fashioned: I love my work and my work is also my hobby and I’m proud of it. This is my nobility title that for sure doesn’t make me any rich but it gives me the great suthisfaction of being, in this time that is not easy, a true artisan, proud of my job, and this is where I get most moral satisfaction, which are enough to make me happy, my family together with my excellent cooperators, understanding that my engagement and my line of conduct, follow me with great attention, willing to learn this art which is one of the symbols of the well known Italian around the world.

COLLECTION 2017 ASK FOR YOUR FREE SAMPLES AT +39 049 5855295

MARCH 20-22, 2018

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MOLINO PASINI THE ART OF FLOUR / L’ARTE DELLA FARINA

MOLINO PASINI AND FARINA DEL MIO SACCO PRODUCT LINES

Molino Pasini has been in the milling business for more than eighty years. For three generations, we’ve been producing flours for people demanding perfection from their flour. Combining artisan expertise with the most advanced analysis and research technologies, painstaking attention to quality is without a doubt the distinguishing trait of our production philosophy. Today, Molino Pasini strikes a perfect balance between continuity with the past and evolution into the future. While still maintaining strong ties to tradition and to the old-fashioned care with which an artisan product is crafted, we’re great advocates of innovation in production processes and are committed to continuing our pursuit of research and development. Bringing the quality of the past into the future. You can find Molino Pasini products all over the globe thanks to a widespread network of exclusive hand-picked distributors.

MOLINO PASINI Bread line A combination of skilful blending and painstaking milling of the grain has resulted in the most comprehensive range of high-quality bread flours currently on the market. Molino Pasini leads the field in quality biga and long-rise flours.

One of our company’s many goals is to provide customers with the highest level of food safety, to which various international certifications - achieved with the highest possible scores attest: BRC-IFS, UNI EN ISO 22000 2005, UNI EN ISO 22000: FSSC, HACCP, KOSHER and organic certification. In addition, an extremely modern and highly efficient analysis laboratory means continuous research and development efforts are channelled into products worthy of the foremost professionals. Our company vision, which is focused on unbeatable product quality, has culminated in the Molino Pasini Workshop: a centre where theoretical and practical training is divided into different offerings for businesses and professionals. Research, growth, sharing and innovation are keywords on which the Molino Pasini quality training solution is founded.

Primitiva line Rich in fibre, proteins and mineral salts, it’s perfect if you’re looking for unique, unmistakable flavour With its impressive elasticity and easy digestibility, this flour is the result of a whole-grain milling process. Organic line Respecting and protecting the environment are two of Molino Pasini’s prime concerns, which is why we decided to create our own line of organic flours. Flours and semolinas made from organic grain sourced from businesses that offer the assurance of certification by the highest accredited institutes. Granozero line Line of gluten-free flours made with input from leading experts in the gluten-free field, for consumers who either need or want to cut gluten out of their diet.

MOLINO PASINI VIA BUSCOLDO 27/BIS 46010 CESOLE MANTOVA – IT T +39 0376 969015 F +39 0376 969274 WWW.MOLINOPASINI.COM INFO@MOLINOPASINI.COM

Mixes and improvers An extensive range of mixes for preparing different tasting innovative products in no time at all, catering to your every need. Gnocchi mixes A comprehensive professional line of gnocchi mixes, suitable for both artisan and industrial processes. FARINA DEL MIO SACCO Pizzeria line A line of flours that’s ideal for making crisp, delicioussmelling traditional pizzas, pizzas sold by the slice and focaccia flat bread. The line also includes an extensive range of mixes. Fresh pasta line The highlight of our range of flours designed specifically for use in pasta factories is our signature product, Pasta d’Oro®, a unique, unrivalled flour for making fresh pasta. Pastry line Working with some of the best master pastry chefs, Molino Pasini has come up with a line of flours specifically developed for making pastries and sweet goods. The flours are well balanced and consistent and offer great elasticity. A flour for every need.

D E SIGN: STUD IOVER. NET

FARINA PRIMITIVA MOLINO PASINI: IL GUSTO E IL SAPORE DI UNA VOLTA.

“Primitiva” è una linea di farine macinate a tutto corpo per pizze più ricche di fibre, proteine e sali minerali. Tutte caratteristiche che rendono il prodotto profumato, leggero e soprattutto digeribile.

Riscopri i profumi e i sapori della tradizione antica della pizza fatta come una volta. Con le farine tipo 1, tipo 2 e Integrale della linea “Primitiva” di Molino Pasini la bontà è più croccante.

Le informazioni sulla linea Primitiva sono disponibili sul sito web: molinopasini.com

p. 110 year 2017 pizza e pasta italiana

by Virgilio Pronzati

pizza and wine

Wâ&#x20AC;&#x160;

ith no exaggeration it can be stated that pizza is synonym od Naples. The city where it is born. If food is the expression of a country, pizza is the symbol of Italy. It is more or less like Paella for Spain, stock-fish for Portugal and so on. After a period of confusion, at present pizza has received a disciplinary of production, and not only for TSG (traditional specialty guaranteed). Skilled pizzamakers have drawn its basic recipe. Starting from the historical Marinara and Margherita, others have been added. For certain aspects, there has been a proliferation.

Like for simple or refined dishes, pizza has be pared with the right wines. Even better, according with the ingredients that characterize it, it is fun to combine different wines, that are not always white, but often rosĂŠ or in certain cases red. It is important to pair with different pizzas, at the least wines produced in the same municipalities. This is another good reason to enhance other typical productions and the whole territory. And talking about Campania Felix (the merry region), there is no lack of good wines.

p. 112 year 2017 pizza e pasta italiana

Pizza and wine

napoletana (tomato sauce, oregano, extra-virgin olive oil and salt) For this pizza it is worth the speech made by the Neapolitan, but with more immediate wines as the Sorrentine Peninsula Doc White, served at 10-12 ° C in chalices with high stem, or a light pinkish and tangy like Sant’Agata dei Goti, serve at 1113° C in slightly flared chalices with high stem. four seasons (Tomato sauce, mussels, fresh mushrooms, ham, mozzarella, extra virgin Italian olive oil, salt and pepper). white wines and rosé young but good and balanced structure as Solopaca Doc, served their rules. Paring pizza with wine follows the same rules as for savoury dishes, according to the rule of contrast, re-balancing light or strong perceptions and discords in the dish, enhancing its positive traits. From the so called mother pizzas, others are born, according to the inspiration and the skills of each pizzaiolo, who just like chefs experiment intelligently new versions, bearing in mind the good quality of the basic ingredients, their compatibility, their resistence to high temperatures, keeping everything healthy. Pizzas with tomato which is both sweet and acid require rosè dry wines , served around 12-13°C in flared glasses and with a high stem. Here is a brief list and a suggestion for different wines to be pared.

capricciosa: (Tomato sauce, mozzarella Dop or bell, artichokes and mushrooms in oil, ham, black olives, extra virgin Italian olive oil, salt and white pepper). The same as above, but changing the wines: Cilento Doc White and Rosé, served as the background. seafood (fillets of tomato, seafood, garlic, salt and Italian extra virgin olive oil). The salty moods seafood and anchovies are enhanced by young white wines and fresh, delicately fruity and soft just like Falerno Massico Doc served at 10-12 ° C in medium glasses with high stem. anchovy: (mozzarella, anchovy fillets in olive oil, basil, extra virgin Italian olive oil, salt and pepper). Appetizing and determined, wants a young white full but have good balance as the Greek Taburno Doc, served at 10-12 ° C in chalices with high stem. mushroom: (fresh mushrooms, garlic, parsley, Italian olive oil, salt and pepper). To better express the mushroom forest floor aromas, they are ideal dry white wines but varietal and fragrant and wonderful freshness as the Guardia Sanframondi Doc White served at 10-12 ° C in chalices with high stem. with sausages and cured meats: (pork sausages, coppa, brawn, chopped tomatoes, salt and pepper). The effervescence, flavor and slightly tannic vein of light red wines, by removing the fat placid note and mild sweet perception, restoring the aromas and flavors of the meats. Not only. Being slightly tannic you can serve pretty cool. Recommended wine: Castel San Lorenzo Doc Rosso served at 14-15 ° C in goblet with medium rod. cheese: (fontina cheese, asiago, Caciotta of Urbino, garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper). As you know, the fats are carriers’s bacon: why cheeses like. Be wary of light cheeses. To match the most of this rich pizza, it takes slightly aged red wines, medium-bodied and harmonious as the Sannio Doc Rosso served at 15-16 ° C in glasses with medium rod.

la qualitĂ made in Italy

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ttend at www.ife.co.uk/pizza a o t r e t s i g e R

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The Basic Styles of Beer LAMBIC

ALE

15°

It’

30°

LAGER

6°

by Alfonso Del Forno

s not easy to become beer experts, being it a very complex world, but continuously evolving, keeping in mind that there are many artisanal beer crafters who make innovative experiments, sometimes. As a generic word, beer includes every style of fermented malt beverage, including ales and lagers and all the individual and hybrid styles that fall under those headings. Within the realm of major beer categories, you find some truly special brews, such as real ale, barrel-aged and wood-aged beer, extreme beer, organic beer, glutenfree beer, and kosher beer. These kinds of beers don’t represent new or different beer styles, per se; rather, they represent different ways of making and presenting beer.

27°

The two major classifications of beer are ale and lager. Every beer enthusiast should know some basic facts about these classifications: •Ales are the ancient types of beer that date back to antiquity; lager beers are relatively new (only several hundred years old). •Ales are fermented at relatively warm temperatures for short periods of time, while lagers are cold fermented for longer periods of time. •Ales are fermented with top-fermenting yeasts (the yeasts float on top of the beer during fermentation), while lagers are fermented with bottom-fermenting yeasts (the yeasts sink to the bottom of

the beer during fermentation). Within the ale and lager classifications, major beer style categories include Pale Ales and Brown Ales (in the ale family) and Pilsners and Dark Lagers (in the lager family). And the majority of major beer style categories include several different beer sub-styles. Here are just two examples of how this beer hierarchy plays out; many others are similar to these. Stout (a type of ale) Bock (a type of lager) Irish Dry Style Stout Traditional Bock London Sweet Style Stout Helles Bock Foreign Style Stout Maibock Oatmeal Stout Doppelbock Russian Imperial Stout Eisbock

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6°

Hybrid and specialty beers In addition to the two major beer classifications (ales and lagers), a third beer classification that’s an amalgam (more or less) of the first two is hybrid beer. Hybrid beers cross over ale and lager style guidelines. A beer fermented at cold temperatures, using an ale yeast, is an example of a hybrid; likewise for a beer that’s warm fermented, using lager yeast.

Specialty beers, on the other hand, are practically limitless. Typically, specialty beers are brewed to a classic style (such as Porter or Weizenbier) but with some new flavor added; some are made from unusual foods that are fermented. Guidelines are useless, and brewing anarchy rules the brewhouse. The rules-bedamned attitude is what makes specialty beers so fun to brew and drink. Fermentation is an essential stage in the brewing process. It involves adding yeasts to the cooled malt. These yeasts are fed by the amino acids in the brew and produce alcohol from the sugar that is present. These natural reactions also produce carbon dioxide.

High fermentation: this type of fermentation, which is also a traditional process, lasts three to eight days and involves adding Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeasts to the malt. These yeasts are active between 15°C and 25°C and rise to the surface of the malt once all the glucose has been used up, hence the name “high”. This process generally produces beers with a high alcohol content, more complex aromas and less carbon dioxide than low fermentation beers. These beers are also drunk at a higher temperature than the latter, generally between 6°C and 12°C. This category includes amber-coloured beers and a number of specialty Belgian beers. These beers for connoisseurs are usually classified as ales. Indeed, many Belgian specialty beers have English roots.

27°

15°

30° Illustrations by Antonella Manenti

There are three different types of fermentation and each results in a different type of beer. Spontaneous fermentation: this is the oldest method and it goes back to the time when the art of cultivating yeast was as yet unknown and unmastered. In this type of fermentation, the malt is left in the open air for a certain amount of time, the wild yeasts that naturally occur in the air settle on it and thus promote fermentation. Today, this ancestral method is hardly used except for the production of lambic, gueuze, kriek and faro beers, specialties of the Senne Valley and the Pajottenland region west of Brussels, where the air contains the precious yeasts Brettanomyces bruxellensis and Brettanomyces lambicus. What’s more, spontaneous fermentation beer is only brewed when the weather is cold (mid-September to mid-May). The oldest brewery producing these traditional beers is Timmermans, today a member of the Anthony Martin Finest Beer Selection.

Low fermentation:

Mixed fermentation:

this fermentation method popularised by the famous Pilsner, first brewed in the middle of the 19th century in the Czech town of Pilzen, is carried out at between 4°C and 12°C and is characterised by the addition of Saccharomyces carlsbergensis yeasts to the malt. During this process, that lasts seven to ten days, the yeasts migrate to the bottom of the vat, hence the name “low fermentation”. The bees produced via this process are generally less fruity than high fermentation beers and are classified as lagers. They also have a lower alcohol content and a higher CO2 content. Very refreshing, with a pronounced flavour of hops, they are served chilled, generally between 4°C and 7°C.

mixed fermentation is when two types of micro-organisms are used to ferment the beer. Master brewers use on the one hand yeasts that are identical to those used in high fermentation, and on the other, they also use bacteria. In other words, they combine the high fermentation and spontaneous fermentation processes. Some beers are also aged for a number of months in oak barrels, which gives them a fruitier flavour thanks to the presence of micro-organisms. Cheers!

p. 120 year 2017 pizza e pasta italiana

OLIVE OIL USED IN PIZZA DOUGH VETEGABLE FATS Olive Oil Together with butter and lard ,olive oil is the only oil that can be used in special breads. It’s taken from the fruit of “Olea Europea” and is found principally in the Mediterranean. Olive oil is made up of two parts: one glyceric and the other non-glyceric. The first is made up of glycerine extracted from fatty acids: in glycerides the percentage of glycerine constitutes around 5% the remaining part is made up of fatty acids the dominant amongst these being oleic acid (around 75%) and the decreasing sense palmitic acid, stearic, linoleic and linolenic.

p. 121

by Dr. Marisa Cammarano Biologist Nutritionist

CLASSIFICATION Olive oils are classified into two catagories: -Virgin oil, obtained from mechanically pressing olives and subjected to only washing, decantation, filtering and centrifugation.

Refined Oils

-Refined oil, is obtained from the residue of the pressed olives and is subjected to refining by means of heat treatment, filtration and/or chemical processes.

Refined olive oil

VEGETABLE FATS Extra virgin olive oil Extra fine virgin olive oil Fine virgin olive oil Virgin olive oil

is obtained from refining virgin olive oil, having an acidity not superior to 0.5%

Olive oil Acidity < 1% * Acidity < 1.5% * Acidity < 3% * Acidity < 4% *

is obtained by mixing refined olive oil with virgin olive oil with an acidity not superior to 1.5%

Olive pomace oil

* expressed as oleic acid

is obtained by mixing refined olive residue oil with virgin olive oil with an acidity not superior to 1.5%.

TYPES OF VIRGIN OIL

acids

Italian law states that there are four types of oil with the name VIRGIN for the oils that have not been subjected to chemical treatments, these can be distinguished according to acidity.

Cottonseed oil 233 0.07 Olive oil 175 0.92 Peanut oil 162 1.10 Coconut oil 138 1.90 Butter 208 0.28

Â°C

% free fatty

p. 122 year 2017 pizza e pasta italiana

THE PRODUCTIVE PROCESS

GRINDING This involves the crushing of the pulp and stones with a mill or hammer mills.

MALAXATION Malaxation is a slow mixing of the paste which allows the oil-water emulsion to coalesce and in so doing making the successive extraction phase easier. EXTRACTION The extraction phase separates the paste into the following three parts: OIL; OLIVE RESIDUE or POMACE; THE WATERY PART called VEGETATION WATER;

CLARIFICATION The oil extracted from the paste must be free of all residue and of the remaining water. This is done by separating and decanting. Once this needed to be done three or four times to obtain a pure oil, today if the extracted oil passes through a centrifugal press it will only have to be decanted once. Clarified oil is not necessarily limpid, actually it’s a characteristic of noble oils to be opaque and amber coloured even after clarification. Vice versa, poor quality oil is acidic and clear. CONSERVATION It is essential that storage containers are easily washable and are opaque. Olive oil may be conserved for up to 12-18 months but must be protected from excesses of temperature, light and oxygen. If this doesn’t happen the oil will become rancid. The oil must be conserved in closed dark coloured containers in a cool dark place with a temperature of 14-15°C (57.2-59 °F).

BOTTLING Bottling takes place immediately after filtering. Glass is the most suitable container, aluminium cans and containers made of reactive metals such as copper or iron may cause a chemical reaction between the oil and metal and may produce toxins. Do not store in plastic containers as the oil may absorb PVCs from the plastic. The temperature of smoke of some fats. The smoke time is influenced by: The quantity of free fatty acids; The exposed surface; The presence of foreign particles in the cooking fat. Definition When an oil and a fat are brought to a high temperature a chemical transformation happens and a white smoke is formed. Glycerides = glycerine fatty acids Volatile/ non volatile

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Biologico

p. 124 year 2017 pizza e pasta italiana

THE EFFECT OIL HAS IN DOUGH NUTRIMENT Any substance that can satisfy one or more of the following functions:

- Produce energetic material for the production of heat, work or other forms of energy;

- Produce material for the growth and regeneration of tissue;

Fats represent one of the substances that is found frequently in confectionary and in baking products. The fats generally improve the characteristics of the mixture and help in the conserving of the finished product. These effects are due to an emulsifying action of the fat on the starch and its protein. The fats intervene positively both in the mixing and leavening phase and in the baking phase. In the first case the dough structure is more compact, successively in baking the gluten net extends easily thanks to a better lubrication. The finished product is softer, homogeneous and keeps for longer. Fats, oils, and emulsifiers are used in pizza dough for various results: EMULSIFIERS The saturated mono glycerines thanks to their solubility in fat improve the softness of the dough enabling the various ingredients to be distributed better during mixing. STARCH COMPLEX Slows down the hardening (going stale) of the dough.

PROTEIN LEGATORS In particular with the gluten matrix, in that it they improve the structure. ELASTICITY Attaching to the various gluten matrix this increases the possibility to stretch, with better leavening which in turn gives more volume to the bread. PROOFING The saturated monoglycerides fix the gas bubbles by causing a crystallization effect permitting an increase in volume. LUBRIFICATION Improves the mechanicalness of the dough and the manageability of the dough balls. In conclusion we can affirm that for bread and pizza production it is advisable to use a mix of mono glycerides with an adequate ratio between saturates and unsaturates.

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nÂ° it11/0050

Sâ&#x20AC;&#x160;

Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli was born in the late 80s. Since the beginning the school was focused on teaching one of the most beautiful artisanal jobs, combining a technical and scientific approach with the continue research of most modern technologies and the passion for working with the dough. Our story starts in Caorle, in the municipality of Venice, where the national headquarter can still be found at present. Starting from there, we trained thousands of pizza makers in our Italian venues and in several foreign countries: France, Poland, Russia, Brasil, China. And this is not it!

Contacts Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) tel. 0039 (0)421-83.148 fax. 0039 (0)421-81007 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

Do you want to be our partner? join the school! We are spreading the culture of italian cuisine worldwide and for doing that we forge collaborations with local entrepreneurs who share our passion for pizza. In fact, pizza business in the world is constantly growing and is estimated to be about $ 132 billions at the present day. Pizza lovers are every day more and more and professional pizza makers are strongly required by the job market. This is particularly true for the Italian classic pizza that is living a golden age with fast growing rate thanks to the perceived quality of the artesanal recipe and of love of the ingredients. In order to answer to this extraordinary and fast-growing pizza consumption, many entrepreneurs asked us for advising and teaching. Starting from that, we built many long lasting business relationships all around the world. This is also why 2016 was an extraordinary year for Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli that opened new foreign offices abroad: Brasil, China and Australia. The school always turns as a great experience both for students and for partners.

WHERE TO LEARN THE REAL ITALIAN

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TECHNICAL SPONSORS

pizza e pasta italiana

n° it11/0050

Who are we looking for?

How it work?

We are looking for entrepreneurs working in the Food&Beverage sector who look at the school as a great business opportunity in order to generate new business ventures. We can help them to open a Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli office in their country! The school creates networks and it is the best place for facing the market, testing products and gaining loyal customers. Creating synergies, the school helps the other business branches to improve effectiveness. In case the territory is wide, you can replicate the Italian school organization spreading your instructors network all over the country.

Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli starts its activities in Caorle (Venice) in the late ‘80 s. Since the beginning, our goal was to build a network of experts able to develop and spread our scientific approach of making pizza.So we did it, first in Italy (where during the last 30 years we have selected a group of top pizza chefs and opened several offices of the school), then abroad (Russia, Poland, Germany, France..) always using the same business model. We transfer school know-how through the Franchising Agreement, which is the best and the indispensable way for successfully teaching our method.

Each school is held by an instructor pizza chef reffered as “Master Istruttore”. Only few pizza makers trained during a specific course held at the italian national head office of the school will be promoted as “Master Istruttore with Percorso Formativo Certificato (Certified Training Program)”, guarantee of quality standards and professionalism of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. With the Entrance Fee, partners of the school gains the exclusive right of using the trademark of “Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli” and to teach our techniques into the assigned territory. Once they have properly arranged the school and obtained the qualification of Master Instructor for the selected area, they can immediately start giving lessons and easily reimbourse the fee with the first course! Furthermore, we follow the developing process of the new foreign school providing it with a brandnew website, raw materials, school materials, student sets and, most of all, know-how gained in almost 30 years of experience on the field. No more investment is needed if you already have places for holding lessons. in the picture, from left to right:

Mariano De Giacomi, Theo Kalogeracos, Johnny Di Francesco, Antonio Puggina, Ivan Zecca

VISIT www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

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The advice of an expert Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli is part of a group which has gained a 360Â° experience in the sector of pizza, from teaching to the manufacturing processing, from layout design of restaurant concepts to franchising chains operations

Project back up Some examples: - Design of a pizzeria shop; - Cost management; - Manufacturing Process Management for laboratories (both fresh and frozen product) and shops; - Shop staff training and work area organization.

Technical and product consultancy Some examples: - Customer preferences analysis; - Definition of a specific market-oriented dough mix; - Definition of a specific training path for staff; - Research of best equipment and raw materials of Italian producer.

Contacts tel. 0039 (0)421-83.148 fax. 0039 (0)421-81007

info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

management, both in Italy and abroad. Define the best dough mix for your sales goal could not be easier. We can provide you with a customized solution thanks to the huge amount of preparations and recipe developed in almost 30 years of experience. This enormous background allows us to face and solve a great range of problems with trust and catch best opportunities. Our panel of experts, all professionals in the sector, have the capability to face, together with the national headquarter staff, any request. Entrust your business plan to us means saving time and money avoiding common mistakes given by inexperience.

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--> OUR COURSES

pizza e pasta italiana

BASIC COURSE —

VISIT

n° it11/0050

www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

The passion for pizza The passion for making a good pizza and being able to transmit it to others is the ground for the school’s work, which pushes to experiment, to know, to learn and to spread out what we know to all those who wish to learn the profession of pizza maker. Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli was among the first school to develop three different types of course: basic specialization and advanced courses alongside with the practical part there is also theory. We believe this is the best professional way to approach this job, which needs study, application and passion complex job.

SPECIALIZATION COURSES —

Specialization courses are dedicated to professionals who wish to develop processing techniques for the production, preparation, filling and baking of particular types of pizza. Those courses take place over one or two days.

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Our lessons enable the future pizza-maker not only to make dough mixes on the bases of the recipes given during the courses, but also to gain a knowledge of the different results that can be obtained on the basis of wished variations (for example the choice of different flour) or less (unexpected things that can happen every day like abrupt changes of temperature due to weather conditions); situations that can happen during professional life.

NEAPOLITAN PIZZA —

Neaples is the city where everything began. Scuola italiana Pizzaioli could not be lacking of a specific course about the very traditional way for pizza preparation. The course of Neapolitan Pizza guides the student through the learning path for obtaining the traditional pizza with the lovely “cornicione” (the crust) typical of Naples.

You can find us also in the most known food sector exhibitions both in Italy and abroad, because we strongly believe that meeting other cultures - especially when talking about good food - gives us the chance improve. Passion, professional work, experience, these are all key elements which pave the road to success.

Actually, several features distinguish the classical round pizza from the neapolitan recipe, from the use of dedicated flours to the choice of D.O.P. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, that is to say protected designation origin) topping ingredients. Moreover, proper working and gestural methods (as “the slapping”) and strict baking rules make

the neapolitan pizza a specific and precise science. The original Neapolitan Pizza is an S.T.G. product (Specialità Tradizionale Garantita). It means that pizza has been prepared in full compliance with the procedural guidelines (registered by European Union in 2009) for getting the qualification of “traditional guaranteed speciality”.

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ADVANCED COURSES

Classic Pizza

Advanced Courses are reserved to expert pizza makers, restaurateurs and food industry professionals who want to expand their knowledge in food, nutrition and management, gaining new skills and learning best technical practices. Advanced courses are designed to study every perspective of “pizza” as business concept. That is to say that Advanced Course program deals with both technical in-depht analysis (haute cuisine for topping preparation, nutritiononal science, food technology, bread-macking techniques) and management seminars (Food Cost Analysis, Profit and Loss Analysis, Food Social Media Marketing). For this reason, Advanced Courses are held by external teachers, top specialists in their own scientific or technical field.

The basic course is reserved for those who wish to learn the job of pizza maker, professionals and owners of restaurants, who want to learn and deepen the theoretical concepts and practical experience required to operate with success in the business of pizza. The course alternates hours devoted to theory, necessary for deeply understanding why you get certain results rather than others, with hours devoted to manual and gestural practice. The path will lead the student toward several steps in order to fully prepare them to the job. Among others, we focus the course on the choice of different types of grains, flour (and how to choose among them the best ingredients to catch your goals), the yeast, leavening techniques, ingredients, the topping and much more. Obviously, we teach how to make, portionate and save the dough; how to spread dough balls, fill them and cook a real pizza! We dedicate several sessions teaching how to use professional tools as ovens, mixers, shock freezers. The intensive course takes place over five days, from Monday to Friday, for 40 hours in total. This includes 10 hours of theory and 30 hours of practice. in the picture:

Henrique Cavazotti - head of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli in Brazil with his students

PIZZA IN PALA —

The “Pizza in Pala” (pala is the long wood board needed for baking), also known as the “Pizza alla Romana”, is a typical product of roman bakeries, thin and crunchy. The mix is a very hydrated dough; apparently simple, but with lots of secrets to take in consideration that can dramatically influence the quality, aesthetics and taste personality of the final product.

PIZZA IN TEGLIA —

The”Pizza in Teglia” (pan pizza) is thick and soft. This pizza has a secret which is what allows to get a good growth in heigh maintaining, however, lightness. The perfect combination of these perspectives makes the difference between a dramatic success and an epic fail.

VISIT

ACROBATICS —

The course aims to improve dexterity in handling, the speeding up of the work in a pizzeria using acrobatic techniques. The acrobatic show always fascinates customers and it is part of the choreography.

www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

SOURDOUGH —

Starting from what we call “la madre” we will explain the techniques of refreshing, conservation and how to use the sourdough in your pizza mix in the best way.

GLUTEN FREE —

In this course we teach how to organize the work plan and what procedures adopt to serve the celiac customer and safely obtain a dough with excellent performance and fragrant as the traditional pizza. We study different gluten free mixes and technical solutions for getting a uniform and easyto-work dough mix.

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year 2017

Headquarters abroad

pizza e pasta italiana

France PARIS

Canada TORONTO info (0039) 0421.83.148

info (0033) 61.60.43.892 (0039) 0421.83.148

CHAMONIX

Poland

Russia

POZNAN

MOSCOW info (007) (495) 783.90.58

info (0048) 885.101.141

info (0033) 68.39.03.069 (0039) 0421.83.148

www.fornoitalia.pl www.scuolaitaliapizzaioli.pl

orocatering@gmail.com

(007) (967) 170.12.30 www.pmqrus.ru

China Usa

BEIJING SHANGHAI

SAN FRANCISCO

info (0086) 185.1860.5274

info (001) 510.786.7885 www.internationalschool ofpizza.com

Brazil

Germany

Belgium

SÃO PAULO

FRANKFURT

CHARLEROI

info (0055) 41.99.91.89.778

Australia

info (00324) 95.27.31.73

info (0039) 0421.83.148

MELBOURNE PERTH MARGARETH RIVER

www.toscanashop24.de

www.le5stagioniacademy.br

Headquarters in Italy

info (0039) 0421.83.148

CAORLE (VE)

Lombardia

COMO MANTOVA

Veneto

- C/O SANFELICI

Piemonte

ALESSANDRIA CUNEO

CAORLE PADOVA - C/O SIRMAN VERONA - C/O ZANOLLI BELLUNO VICENZA TREVISO- C/O CUPPONE

graziano bertuzzo

Main Headquarter

Emilia Romagna

info

0039 (0) 421-83.148

Liguria

Lazio

Toscana

FIRENZE - C/O VALORIANI PISTOIA - C/O PALA PIZZA GIMETAL

GENOVA LA SPEZIA

ROMA ROMA - NETTUNO NORMA - LATINA

Abruzzo

Campania

SALERNO NAPOLI BENEVENTO

RIMINI PARMA RAVENNA

Puglia Basilicata Sicilia Calabria

TERAMO L’AQUILA

BARI - C/O ISTITUTO ECCELSA

GIRARROSTI - CHURRASCHE - PIZZA GRILL GRIGLIE - MULTIGRILL