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Advertiser Index Antimo Caputo Beer&food Attraction
p. 38 - 39 p. 109
Cerutti Inox
p. 23
Così Com'è - Finagricola
p. 15
Cuboxal - Trevicart
p. 21
Cuppone F.lli
p. 91
Familia
p. 49
GAM International
p. 71
Gi Metal
p. 89
Greci Internorga Int. Pizza Expo Las Vegas Italmill
—table of contents—
p. 116 p. 83 p. 101 p. 50 - 51
Kuma Forni
p. 27
La Torrente
p. 29
Lilly Codroipo
p. 31
MAM - eredi Malaguti
p. 45
6 EDITORIAL
by Giampiero Rorato
8 WHO WE ARE by editorial staff
— The Pizza World Championship 12
by editorial staff
18
Molino Denti
p. 33
The great journey of pizza
Molino Dino Sartori
p. 25
by Giampiero Rorato
Molino Grassi
p. 47
Molino Naldoni
p. 93
Molino Perteghella
p. 55
Molino Piantoni
p. 59
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OEM - Aligroup
p. 79
Piazza
p. 67
Marana forni Molino Agugiaro e Figna Molino Dallagiovanna
Pizza World Championship
p. 2 - 3 p. 16 - 17 p. 115
p. 10 - 11
Rodolfi Mansueto
p. 75
Sanfelici Franco
p. 43
SITTA
p. 37
Sprayleggero
p. 54
Stefano Ferrara Forni Tanagrina Tecndom Valoriani - Forni
p. 7 p. 36 p. 84 - 85 p. 63
40 —
Riccardo La Rosa, the world pizza champion 2019 by Patrizio Carrer
44 —
Big Mamma
by editorial staff
52 —
Pizza Pala and trends by Caterina Orlandi
56
Declinations of Pizza 2020 Graziano Bertuzzo, Federico De Silvestri, Ciro Salvo, John Berg, Harris Wong, Jeremy Viale and Frederic Desmurs, Rosa Anna Citro, Alessio Bertolucci
Working tools - when and how to use them
by editorial staff
by editorial staff
table of contents
86 60 Do you know which yeast for pizza? all about pizza
Leaving and maturation
64
by editorial staff
68
Neapolitan Pastiera
by Giampiero Rorato
102 —Wine
in pizzeria
by Giampiero Rorato
104 —
all about pizza
by editorial staff
98 —
Piccola Cucina Mediterranean and Sicilian tradition in New York
Save the date
106
— The evolution of beer in Italy by Alfonso Del Forno
by editorial staff
92 italian excellence
Bresaola
by Caterina Vianello
— italian excellence Pecorino Romano 72
by Caterina Vianello
76 —
italian excellence
Fiordilatte by Caterina Vianello
80 —
Pizza is more and more gourmet by Giampiero Rorato
Pizzas' compared: Argentina, Germany, USA and France by editorial staff
110 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI
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— Editorial — by Giampiero Rorato
I
n this globalised era, the vast world of agri-food products and processing equipment has assumed a fundamental role for humanity. Indeed, as globalisation has made any product in the world available to anyone in real time, it has already increased food production options even in the most inaccessible areas, tackling hunger in many communities in Africa, South America and other areas that until now seemed impervious to agriculture. In this context, Italy has long offered a contribution that is widely regarded as crucial: for the highly advanced
technology in agricultural machines, and for the drilling and channeling of irrigation water; for its agricultural and food products, such as fruit, vegetables, flour, extra-virgin olive oil, and again for its excellent ready-to-eat products, such as pasta, cheeses, cold cuts, wines, confectionery products and more. The products and equipment presented in the following pages, have long been appreciated all over the world and are too often badly copied; they are the proof that Italy is at the forefront of this sector, thanks to a gastronomic culture that has produced unparalleled gastronomy treatises
over the centuries (the result of the concrete experiences of chefs who have honed Italian cuisine and work techniques), and has offered other countries the example of an always modern and often cutting-edge cuisine. This special issue of our magazine focuses on a significant area of the restaurant sector: the rich and fascinating world of pizza and the key developments that aimed to make it more palatable, nutritious, light, and affordable; to prepare it, specialist Italian industries have manufactured modern equipment that can currently be found in pizzerias.
There are also multinational companies that make pizzas, but this magazine remains proudly faithful to the Neapolitan and Italian tradition, and prefers to target pizza artisans; the products and equipment described in the following pages, all carefully selected and tested, are directed at the everyday work of the many excellent pizza makers working in Italy and across the world. We hope that in a free-market world, our rich and beautiful made-in-Italy tradition can help improve the diet of less fortunate people, as well as make gourmet dinner tables all over the world even more delectable and captivating.
www.giampierororato.blogspot.com
PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 Year XXXI - January, 2020 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi, Patrizio Carrer ADVERTISING Patrizio Carrer, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 - Fax +39 0421 81007 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it
GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo, Paola Dus and Elena Cazzuffi — Mediagraf lab
ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS
DIGITAL PUBLISHING Maura Trolese COVER ILLUSTRATED BY Sonia Ligorio PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Virgilio Pronzati, Giuseppe Dell’Aquila, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), David Mandolin, Gianandrea Rorato, Gianluca Rorato, Federica Zanata, Caterina Vianello, Laura Nascimben, Fabio Iacozzilli. PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA INTERNATIONAL Pete La Chapelle (N.A.P.O. - Pizza Today, U.S.A.), P.M.Q. Steve Green (U.S.A.) Drew McCarthy (Canadian Pizza Magazine, Canada), Valeria Vairo (Buongiorno Italia).
FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana SPAGNA RRR Revista de Restauración Rapida, Pizza y Restauración U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green GERMANIA Buongiorno Italia – TEL +39 0421 83148 FAX +39 0421 81007
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Who we are P 
izza e Pasta Italiana has been for
31 years the world
leading magazine in food
and pizza sector.
This is the 9h edition of our renown
A brief journey through raw materials,
magazine, Pizza e Pasta Italiana in
baking techniques, recipes, great food
English for the international markets
personalities, who are making history
for all those people who are involved
in our gastronomy of excellence.
in the high end pizza products.
illustration by Sonia Ligorio
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T 
he editor of this magazine, Pizza New Spa, was among the first one to believe in the branch of pizza, which with time from a poor food, spread above all around Italy, became a nutritionally complete food, made by first order professionals. Pizza e Pasta Italiana could only have been an Italian product! Italy is historically the world food cradle and the land of pizza from the earliest times. We as Italians, proudly promote our knowledge and our excellent products casted in an international environment. Pizza is a democratic and convivial food, apparently simple but highly complex. It is very difficult to make and bake a good pizza, and this is why through this pizza we strive to offer our many readers around the world, a panoramic as complete as possible, rich in techniques, recipes, tricks, reportages, technologies, and news which accompany this dynamic sector. In Pizza e Pasta Italiana, you will nevertheless find the more classic catering, because we believe that education both of chefs and pizzaioli has to be at 360°, and because we strive that every professional category is able to find hints, crossings and common ground with the work of others. The editor of this magazine, that in Italy is released every month and that you can find in English for free as an application on
Apple Store, is not only strictly the sheer editor, but it is also the organizer of the world most known pizza event, the Pizza World Championship. This event is held every year in Italy for 29 years, and represents the world meeting point for all pizza lovers around the world. During three days of show, operators, pizza chefs and entrepreneurs can meet each other, and confront each other on a common ground. The 2020 edition will be held in Parma, in the heart of the Italian food valley, from April 21 to 23. Let’s complete the conspectus of our activities saying that our passion for pizza and professional catering is completed by the work of the International School of Pizza, private professional school born
in late 80s in Italy. The school teaches newbies and professionals new methods and techniques. You will find more detailed information on our schools and education activities. We wish you a joyful reading, and we invite you to follow us on the different editorial channels: www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.worldpizzachampionship.it and the Italian and English digital application is available on Apple Store.
WORld PiZZA Championship 2020 april 21-22-23
parma 29th edition
ISCRIVITI SUBITO —> w w w .campionatomondialedellapizza.it —> info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it
The greatest Pizza event in the world
29a Edizione
- classic pizza
- pizza for two - roman pizza - pan pizza
- the largest
- heinz Beck trophy - gluten free
- the fastest
- Neapolitan pizza - Free style
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pizza e pasta italiana international
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Pizza World Championship
Value and Meaning of an extraordinary event by Giampiero Rorato
The most important world level event for the world of the pizza, conceived, promoted and organized by this Magazine and by its ownership, will reach its 29th edition in the upcoming month of April. In its background, there is therefore a long, solid and nonstop tradition that every year has seen gathered as pizzaioli of every part of the world and, together with them, entrepreneurs of equipment and producers of raw material for pizzerias. Its first edition took place in 1990 in Castrocaro Terme, later on in Viareggio to finally move to Salsomaggiore Terme, all places enhanced at a world level by this event. The event, also wanted by many Italian cities for the enormous turnover it generates, for four years now it is held in Parma, European capital of food and wine, in the prestigious building of Palaverdi, next to the Convention Center.
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www.pizzaworldchampionship.it
ThE KNOwledge Therefore, this year, it will take place from 21 to 23 of April, with the attendance of many pizzaioli from all around Europe, from America, from North Africa, Asia and Australia. Last edition saw professionals from 41 nations: pizza is worldwide! photo by Alberto Rossi
T 
hiunique at international level, has also been designed for a series of reasons. Above all, pizza-bakers, who before were alone in their work, thanks to this magazine and to the World Pizza Championship have finally gained the chance to be introduced in an international network, where they can meet each other, exchange information, evaluate operating techniques, and extraordinary friendships were born, which bound pizzaioli form every continent.
The human aspect has gained and continues to gain a prominent importance and next to it, it has developed a new and modern culture of pizza that has allowed the many hundreds of pizza-makers registered to the event, and every year this some new, to have precious confrontations, deepen the knowledge of products and to learn more about new products and techniques on yeasts, dough mixes, fermentation and toppings. This all represents the cultural and professional soul of the Pizza World Championship and thousands of pizza bakers who during the previews 28 years have taken part, and went home with a rich expertise that helped them to grow a lot.
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For any further information, don't hesitate to contact: info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it
The event The most prominent aspect of the Pizza World Championship is represented by the different pizza events thought to enhance and improve at best vocations and skills of participants and the list of the categories is enough to understand well the complexity of the event more in general. Pizza-bakers compete, in other words, to conquer the title of Pizza World Champion in the following categories: Classic Pizza, Pizza in the pan, Pizza on the peel, Neapolitan STG pizza, Gluten free pizza, Pizza for two (pizzaiolo and chef), Heinz Beck Trophy (for first dishes made by chefs working in a pizzeria), the largest, the fastest, Single Free style.
Pizza world toUR Pizza World Championship is also the moment in which entrepreneurs, stakeholders, buyers and product development managers of international pizza chains meet to look after the latest trends about pizza.
During the three-days competition there are 12 specialities and around 800 competitors are admitted, selected through other competition organized in the most important exhibitions around the world. This process of internationalisation has become necessary because of the increasing value and success of Pizza World Championship among all the pizza-bakers who want to compete with the best Italian artisans. For the 2020 edition, the preselection rounds have started in the Fall of 2019, in Spain, Australia and Russia; then it will be the turn of Germany, China, Brazil and many more nations where pizza represents Italy.
The meaNING As you can clearly understand, pizza-bakers who gain the podium during the great gala evening with the title of Pizza World Championship lure the interest of the media, press, tv both national and local, thus obtaining fame which translates into business success. Until this moment, it has always been
like this, and in the previews 28 editions also pizzaioli before unknown, confined in secluded areas, thanks to the winning and to the title of Pizza World Championship have obtained and continue to obtain those satisfactions and that economic success that continues to prolong along time. These are all the many reasons for which
the Pizza World Championship obtains a great success among pizza-bakers of the whole world, moves broadcasting stations and the press, attracting many food personalities, important journalists, famous artists and qualified equipment and food entrepreneurs who present the latest products to the launched on the market.
AGUGIARO&FIGNA MOLINI, BETWEEN TRADITION AND INNOVATION
Agugiaro & Figna Molini was born from the merging of two historic miller working families: nowadays it is the leader milling industry in Italy for the grinding of soft wheat and it is specialized in the production of very high quality flours and mixes. From the 15th century onwards the company has continued the tradition transmitted by the ancestors with unchanged dedication and knowledge and it has taken care of the milling art preserving the commitment in the research of the most precious grains. The careful blending and the accurate grinding of the precious grains that come from the best crops of the world (Australia, Canada, US and Europe) take place in three plants owned by the company: Parma, Padova and Perugia. The production process uses the most sophisticated technologies to guarantee the quality and the efficacy that only Agugiaro & Figna flours can offer. A special attention is paid to the sustainability of the grinding: a slow process to respect each grain variety (biodiversity) and the native quality of the grains. A slow and accurate work: in each grain there are components which are extremely different
AGUGIAROFIGNA.COM
and to which different attentions have to be devoted. For this reason, the Research and Development department is the heart of the company and is the lab responsible of the creation of new precious blends. Agugiaro & Figna flours are addressed to the professional bakers and to the high food service, to the master confectioners and to the expert pizza makers. Each client is unique. For this reason Agugiaro & Figna Molini created eight flours ranges: Le 5 Stagioni, Le Sinfonie, Molino Agugiaro, Molino Figna, Oro Fagioli, A&F – Alta Cucina&Farina, Naturkraft, e Mag 98, each of them has particular characteristics in order to respond to the specific needs that each dough requires. “We like to make the difference. This is why we choose not only the conventional wheat but also the 100% organic Italian wheat: excellence everywhere, also in the baby food supply chain and in gluten free proposal. Water and sun feed our wheat and give us the energy to transform it into flour. A respectful product born in a respectful environment: for this reason, we signed an ethical code for the workers
protection. A certified production process ensures the flour genuineness, the stability and the fulfilment of precise parameters of use. We choose communication and marketing activities with a strong social impact in order to sustain the artisan’s work and the promotion of good, clean and correct values”- Giorgio Agugiaro and Alberto Figna. On the occasion of the 19th edition of Cibus 2018, Agugiaro & Figna Molini became official partner of Slow Food Italia, the international no profit association which is involved in giving back the right value to the food around the world according to the values of good, clean and correct. The union between Agugiaro & Figna Molini and Slow Food Italia confirms that the excellence is always born from the knowledge of the working people and from the choice of high quality ingredients. This connection also confirms that the “made in Italy” can be expressed abroad with good taste, sustainability and harmony and affirms that, above all, all this together is better.
#EXPRESSYOURSELF SYDNEY, 08:00 PM Every pizza chef has a story to tell that is revealed through his recipes. This is why Le 5 Stagioni has developed a complete, versatile line of extremely high quality flours, which every maestro is free to interpret, expressing himself with passion and personality.
THE MOST COMPLETE RANGE OF FLOURS, SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCTS, AND SPECIALIZED LINES FOR PIZZERIAS. le5stagioni.it • curtarolo@agugiarofigna.com • +39 049 9624611
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The Great Journey of Pizza
From Naples to the Five Continents by Giampiero Rorato
A
As Sabino Berardino (of Pizza, Slow Food publishers) recalls, there's a great Pete Souza photo of then-US President Barack Obama in a restaurant, happily chomping on a nice pizza. That photo, one of the many documents evidencing the internationalization of this extraordinary Italian dish, refutes the great writer Matilde Serao (1856-1927), who in her famous 1884 novel “Il ventre di Napoli” [The belly of Naples] wrote that pizza was an exclusively Neapolitan dish and had to remain in Naples.
The beginning of the expansion At the time Serao was writing her novel, she probably did not realize that some of her fellow citizens were also leaving Naples for the Americas. From 1882 she had, in fact, been in Rome in the editorial office of “Capitan Fracassa” newspaper; her work consisted mainly of writing articles and visiting salons, and in her book, which would be published in 1884, she was retelling life as she knew it in her Naples. In 1880 the great Italian exodus had begun, a biblical emigration, whose related issues – which are shared by other unfortunate populations – are ignored by those in power. It was an emigration that included as many as 9 million Italians from
Italy, 4 million of whom landed in the United States of America. 70% of these migrants came from Southern Italy. We remember this exodus that deprived Italy of many of its best, strongest and bravest – albeit very poor – young people, because they brought Neapolitan pizza to the USA. Back then, they established a New York neighbourhood called Little Italy, because it was inhabited by people of Italian background. It is located in Lower Manhattan, the southern part of the borough, and Neapolitans settled mainly on Mulberry Street, where soon they opened the first pizzerias in the style then popular in Naples.
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they did not bring pizza (which they didn't know), but polenta, keeping the original corn biotypes - those that had arrived in Venice in the early 1500s. Nonetheless, pizza didn't take long to arrive, so much so that today, in Brazil (especially in Sao Paulo, where many Italians live) there are well over 30,000 pizzerias. Wherever Italians arrived, from Venezuela to Argentina, from Canada to Mexico, from Cuba to Chile, everywhere today there are Italian-style pizzerias, largely managed by Italians and descendants of Italian immigrants.
From New York to the rest of America It didn't take long for pizza to conquer the big North American cities, because those first migrants from Naples moved all over the country seeking fortune; then their relatives did, and gradually many others until the post-war years; and where they arrived, there also arrived pizza and pizzerias. The main centres of diffusion were New York (the first pizzeria, Pizzeria Lombardi, was officially recognized in 1905 and is still active); then San Francisco, Chicago, Philadelphia. In the last two decades of the 19th century, a majority of immigrants, especially from Veneto and Friuli, headed to Brazil, landing in Porto Alegre and scattering across the State of Rio Grande do Sul; however,
In the rest of the world An interesting example of Italian migration is Australia. The first Italian migration to this faraway country was at the end of 1800, in Queensland, where labor was needed for the processing of sugar cane. After World War I another 20,000 people arrived, but the real great migration to Australia was after the World War II, after
Italy emerged from that terrible war in ruins and impoverished. Hence, in Australia there area currently almost 300,000 Italian speakers, recent immigrants, or children of earlier immigrants. And with Italians came Italian restaurants and especially pizza. And, much like in Australia, Italian pizza can now be found everywhere in the world.
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Italian pizza or mock pizza? Italian pizza, the one that originated in Naples and spread to every corner of Italy, is based on history, culture, and tradition. Italian pizza makers everywhere, and all those who follow the Italian tradition – whether French, Japanese, German, Brazilian, etc. – are able to offer their customers superb artisan pizza thanks to excellent raw ingredients, starting from the flour, with toppings largely of local origin, cooked in ovens that are the result of Italian ingenuity and creativity. Italian or Italian-style pizzas are an expression of high craftsmanship, and the result of the high professionalism of pizza-makers.
What about mock pizza, for want of a better word? With all due respect to industrial products, there is a big difference between pizzas made by or in the style of Italian pizza makers, and the mass-produced pizzas by multinational companies; in fact, the former are the most appreciated and the most in demand even abroad. Why are Italian pizza makers in demand everywhere, from England to New Zealand? There is a reason: Italian pizza is in line with the values of Italian and French cuisine today, at the top of every gourmet's list, wherever they live.
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Declinations of pizza — 2020
Graziano Bertuzzo Graziano Bertuzzo born 1959 is one of the most important pizza makers in the world. Bertuzzo is the winner of numerous awards and prizes in more than 40 years of experienxe and a symbol of Italian pizza in the world. His establishment, pizzeria Brian in Eraclea (Venice), is in everyone’s eyes the pizzeria of the world champion. As the manager for the technical department of the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, Graziano Bertuzzo is also one of the most respected teachers for current and aspiring pizza makers.
Pizza Burger
RECIPE 00’ Flour type/220 W Water Salt Milk Eggs Butter Yeast TOPPING Tomato, salad, caramelized onion, cheese, meat
Dough mix with 55/ water. Once the dough is made, shape the dough balls with a dimeter of 15 cm per 100 gr of weight. Before baking, brush the dough with the egg. Sprinkle sesame and chia seeds on the bread doughs. Let it rise at
rooms temperature for about 2 hours and cook for 20 minutes at 180°C. This type of dough is for pan pizza and bread buns. For the stuffing you can use fried or caramelized onions.
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declinations of pizza 2019
Federico De Silvestri
Amarone Wine ad Gorgonzola cheese INGREDIENTS AND PROCEDURE Fresh kale Mozzarella, Boar ragout Corn chips and poppe seeds Gorgonzola cheese mousse Crunch onion chips Amarone wine gelee made in Verona CONDIMENTS – GARNISHING THE PIZZA BASE Dough mix made by using a 7 flour mix, yeast, water (75% hydration), salt and olive oil. The topping is made in two steps, the first by using black kale and mozzarella, the second at the end of baking with the addition of all the ingredients.
Federico De Silvestri is the owner of Pizzeria Focacceria Quattrocento located in Marzana, in the province of Verona. Federico De Silvestri is not only the Master Instructor of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli but he boasts many national and international titles, being for two years in a row Gluten Free World Champion, obtaining in 2019 a triple winning at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, in the non traditional category (with ingredients of free choice), winning “Best of the Best” and winning the best foreign competitor title.
Family of millers Since1589
PA S S I O N TRADITION I N N OVAT I O N
Flours created specifically to obtain fragrant doughs, with an excellent flavor and high digestibility. VISIT OUR WEBSITE TO DISCOVER ALL OUR PRODUCTS
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declinations of pizza 2020 Ciro Salvo Ciro Salvo is the third generation of master pizzamakers from a renowned family. His research on extremely hydrated dough, where very large percentage of water are added to the flour, has resulted in awards and recognition from the most regarded national and international food critics , with particular emphasis to the lightness and easy digestibility of the dough.
50 kalò Marinara DOUGH RECIPE 800 gr of flour half a liter of cold tap water 2 gr of yeast 20 gr up for sale NOTE 10/12 hours of rising. Dissolve the yeast with some drops of water, pour 600 gr of flour and mix. Add 20 grams of salt. Continue to knead with hands, adding the remaining flour in 2-3 shots. When the mixture is smooth and free of lumps, let it rest 10-15 minutes after giving it a round shape. Let it rest for 30 minutes. Split the dough into blocks of about 350 grams . Cover them with plastic wrap and then let them rest. In a round baking tray stretch out the dough with hands to give it the classic round shape of the pizza. Bake at maximum power (250-300 °) for 6-8 minutes. TOPPING Pizza dough boiled endive (70gr) Caiazzo black olives (30gr) to be mixed with some Salina capers 50g Corbara cherry tomatoes a clove of garlic (possibly Ufita) extra virgin olive oil In a round baking tray stretch out the dough with hands to give it the classic round shape of the pizza, then add the boiled endive, very thin cut garlic, the pitted black olives, the capers of Salina and the tomatoes of Corbara and oil and cook in a hot oven at maximum power (250-300 °) for 6-8 minutes.
Ciro Salvo is also worldwide Ambassador of Pizza Napoletana for Slow Food,his pizzeria, 50 Kaló in Naples, is one of only six pizzerie to have been included in Italy's Michelin Guide. 50 Kalò London is Best italian pizzeria in London for Gambero Rosso Top Italian Restaurants Guide 2019.
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declinations of pizza 2020
Jambon & Parmesan
RECIPE Dough made with biga 72H fermentation with 10/100 of stone grounded grain Organic flour TOPPING Tomato after baking Parma Ham 36 months aged Parmesan Cheese Speck chips Rucola Pesto Greek Oregano
John Berg The award-winning French pizza chef John Berg was repeatedly champion of France and of the world between 2008 and 2010, when he worked for the "Le Barone" pizzeria in Normandy. Today John works in Marseille and his style of pizza has become unmistakable. The mixture, light and very hydrated, is the result of a long process started more than 15 years ago and increasingly perfected. For the topping, John Berg prefers to use raw tomatoes, while the flours are strictly organic and the mozzarella is produced in nearby Provence.
For a delicate palate requires refined foods Bring a healthy flavor to your lips, imagine being at the table. At the table we meet, chat, relax, but good food is a pleasure, it is capable of restoring a good mood. The production and consumption of organic foods has had a significant increase in recent years. A fundamental aspect of organic foods deals with the control and certification of the production process, which is used to offer assurance to the customer.
scopri di più
www.latorrente.com - info@latorrente.it
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declinations of pizza 2020 PIZZA RECIPE 100 gr. Mozzarella, 45 gr. cherry tomato 35 gr. spicy salami 20 gr. gorgonzola 10 gr. anchovies 20 gr. parmesan cheese 5 ml extra virgin olive oil
Pizza di Guido
PIZZA DOUGH RECIPE still mineral water 1 liter flour 1.5 KGs, Salt 50grs, yeast 3 to 8 grams (depends on season and humidity) Method: mix all ingredients above until completely combined, make the round dough and keep at room temperature for 8 hours.
Harris Wong Harris Wong, Chinese name 王晓伟, was born in Shanghai in 1982. He worked in an American restaurant in Shanghai as pizza chef when he was at 19 years old until 25 years old. But he realized it’s boring there used semifinished pizza dough and pizza crust was pressed by machine. With continuous enthusiasm in pizza, he changed job to an Italian restaurant with pizza making. After 3 years work there, he found electrical oven pizza not interesting any more. Therefore, he started to research online what’s the best pizza in the world and if existing in Shanghai. Surprisingly, he found Bella Napoli Italian restaurant in Shanghai, having the authentic wood-fired
Neapolitan pizza oven and traditional making method. He was attracted by hand-making pizza here. Since 2010 he worked at Bella Napoli till now, he was keen on everything related to pizza. Beside of making pizza while work, he also spends at least 4 hours a day to practice acrobatic pizza and he learned via internet from different tutors Beside of pizza, he can speak Japanese, English and Italian languages are his second life. He like watching all pizza related videos and always would like to attend any pizza competition. Pizza makes his life wonderful and foreign languages help him make pizza masters friends from all over the world.
Every job needs
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la qualità
made in Italy
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declinations of pizza 2020
Jeremy Viale and Frederic Desmurs
Shrimp & Culatello THE DOUGH The recipe of the dough is 100% BIGA with grains added, extra virgin olive oil, yeast, water, salt. THE RECIPE spinach cream with Red Shrimp, Massimo Spigaroli Culatello Ham, pickles, sauce made with the head of the shrimps, fleur de ricotta.
Jeremy Viale and Frederic Desmurs come from the Rhone region, and in 2019 they earned the first place for the Pizza in Two category at the World Pizza Championship. Viale, owner of two pizzerias one in Amberieu en Bugey and another in Meximeiux, began a few years ago to work in a truck, while chef Frederic Desmurs lives in Megeve, a tourist resort in the French Alps and manages the cuisine of the restaurant "Le refuge", always in the mountain town. Viale and Desmurs have proposed a pizza with land and sea ingredients, which already pays homage to Italian gastronomic excellence.
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declinations of pizza 2020
Rosa Anna Citro
Focaccia Collemaggio
Eight wonder
FOR THE DOUGH For a liter of water 1,100 gr of natural flour mix (rise flour, corn starch, buckwheat and teff) 2 gr of yeast 30 gr of salt 50 ml olive oil 2 gr di guar gumm Anna Rosas’ dough mix is made following the poolish method, hence in two steps. The leavening is carried out at rooms temperature, for about 24 hours. This is possible because Rosa Anna used a very low percentage of yeast. Guar gumm is a natural thickener, used to give consistency to the gluten mesh.
FOR THE TOPPING Mozzarella Fiordilatte of Monti Lattari Mortadella Bologna (POD) Sicilian Pistaccio Pesto Pistaccio of Bronte Apulian burrata cheese Parmesan EVO oil
Rosa Anna Citro comes from Salerno (Campania), a city in the South of Italy which together with Neaples boasts a great tradition of pizza. She has 16 years of experience. Rosa Anna is devoted to the gluten free menu in the pizzashop “La Pizza di Aniello Mansi”, she runs the shop together with her husband Aniello. This pizza shop is considered among the best pizzerias in the area for gluten free but not only. The work of Rosa is centered on the dough and on finding the right balance of gluten free flour mixes to obtain a gluten free dough mixes as close as possible to traditional mixes. Her pizza “eight wonder” is the outcome of research work carried out both on dough and on the topping which as underlined by Rosa Anna represents the typical food of Italy.
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declinations of pizza 2020
Alessio Bertolucci "Origini" Pizza
RECIPE FOR THE CRUST 00 type flour Wholemeal flour Toasted yellow chickpea flour Yeast water salt extra-virgin olive oil
Alessio Bertolucci comes from Massa, a city in the north of Tuscany, and is the 2019 Pizza on the Peel World Champion. Born in 1976, Alessio Bertolucci manages the restaurant/pizzeria "I quattro elementi" and is not new to pizza competitions. In 2015 he won the Europe Giropizza and in the following years he won significant awards in a number of national and international competitions. His customers call his pizza “a symphony of flavours”.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
TOPPING Cinta Senese sausage Porcini mushrooms sautéd in oil, garlic and parsley “Fiore sardo” Pecorino Toasted walnuts Artisanal lard Rosemary Mascarpone cream “It's always a lottery to try and guess the flavours of a recipe that can win the World Championship of Pizza, but I tried to find the right balance between all contrasting flavours: sweet, salty, soft and crunchy”.
2020
Il mulino di Napoli WE HAVE ALWAYS : Selected and mixed the BEST WHEAT in the tradition of the ANCIENT ART OF MILLING.
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Guaranteed HIGH HYDRATION
dough with our flours. Used WHEAT and WHEAT ONLY with no extra additives.
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orso San Giovanni a Teduccio, 55 – 80146 Naples, Italy +39 081 752.05.66 – info@mulinocaputo.it
www.mulinocaputo.it
This is achieved thanks to techniques that use wheat alone, skilfully selected and mixed following a slow grinding process. This is the art of Caputo, the Mill of Naples.
Pizzeria
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Traditional
Reinforced
Flour with elastic and resistant gluten,
Ideal for dough that requires long
ideal for light dough with perfect
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leavening.
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Created specifically for bread, pizza and desserts to give up gluten but not taste.
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Multigrain mix with cereals and seeds: sunflower, rye, flax, barley,
sesame and wheat. To be mixed according to an ideal dosage of between 10 and 20%.
1 Kg
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Riccardo La Rosa wins the
by Patrizio Carrer
Classic Pizza World Championship 2019
T
he 2019 Classic Pizza World Champion, Riccardo La Rosa, comes from Levanto, in the province of La Spezia. He is the owner of “La Picea” restaurant (with 80 seats) and “Picea 2.0” (a takeaway pizzeria that opened in 2018). In addition to placing first in the Classic Pizza category, he won the Triathlon (for the highest total score in any 3 contests) and the Parmigiano Reggiano prize for the best pizza prepared with this ingredient. Born in 1989, Riccardo La Rosa is certainly among the youngest pizza makers to have been awarded this title, with a pizza featuring ingredients reminiscent of Ligurian flavours (as the name of the pizza suggests): burrata, datterini tomatoes, yellow tomatoes, pesto prepared with mortar and pestle, toasted pinenuts and Parmigiano Reggiano.
Q
Congratulations on winning! Your “Profumi Liguri” (Ligurian flavours) pizza has a topping that is reminiscent of the flavours of your region; is it a recipe that you have tried out on other occasions? “The pizza recipe I competed with this year is the culmination of a process that I started two years ago. Over the years I tried to improve it, based on the results obtained in previous editions of the Pizza World Championship. After several attempts I managed to find the right balance between the ingredients and finally managed to achieve this result. After placing fifth last year at the World Championship, I finally made it!”
41
Q
Q
Your dough was also highly commended. What flours did you use? What kind of technique did you apply? Did you bake it in an electric oven or on a wood oven? Why?
You also won the Triathlon and the Parmigiano Reggiano Prize. How did you feel when you were called on stage? “It was the strangest feeling! When they called me on stage I was delighted and overwhelmed, but I did not immediately register that I had become the Classic Pizza World Champion 2019. When I returned to Levanto, I celebrated with friends and family!”
“I used a blend of flours: type 2 semi-wholemeal flour, type 00 flour, semolina flour, and another pulse flour. Compared to the same recipe last year, the addition of the last ingredient gave in my opinion a greater crispness and aroma to the dough. The method I used for the dough is the classic biga with 50% hydration; I used brewer’s yeast fed with Type 2 flour and semolina. During the contest I used an electric oven, although normally at work I use a wood-fired one.”
Q
Many great pizza-makers between Liguria and Tuscany have achieved excellent results in this edition of the Pizza World Championship. This is not surprising, as it’s consistent with past editions. How do you explain this localised success? “It’s true, there have been many contestants from my area who achieved excellent results. In my opinion this is due both to the fact that they are all great professionals, but also to the constant consultation among the pizza makers of our area. In my opinion this is good, because in this way we all grow together, helping each other and raising the quality of the pizzerias in our area.”
in photo
the pizza “Profumi liguri”
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Q
In addition to the classic pizza contest, you took part in almost all contests; was there any pizza maker that impressed you for their imagination, skill and professionalism? “To be honest, I was very focused on the task at hand. I had to keep track of the timing, the dough, the toppings ... I was very busy and I didn’t really get to see what my colleagues did.”
Q
in photo
Riccardo La Rosa enters in the Hall of Fame of pizza world champions
What was your professional journey? Is there anyone you’d like to dedicate this victory to? “I started out as a pizza maker in 2011, when I participated in a course organized by the local Confartigianato branch [SMEs and artisan business organisation]; I also took part in a local pizza competition but I placed last! I did not give up and I met Alessandro Gatti, an Instructor at the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli in Massa; thanks to him I became more and more passionate about this job. I can only dedicate this victory to my family, who has supported me throughout and helped me open the restaurant; but a part of this victory also goes to all the friends, colleagues and pizza makers I have worked with all these years!”
We are wholesale suppliers of excellent food for the best restaurant and catering businesses in Italy. To describe the company and our work in a sentence: research and selection of high quality food!
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Big Mamma by editorial staff
Italian cuisine for everyone French group Big Mamma, launched in 2015, is today one of the most interesting and innovative companies on the other side of the Alps. Over the course of four years, the company founded by Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger has opened 6 Italian restaurants, a bar and a food market in Paris, two restaurants in London and a new local – la Bellezza – in Lille. A success as rapid as it is justified, considering the popularity of Italian cuisine – and of course pizza, the specialty of Big Mamma restaurants.
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It is no mystery that Italian food is widely appreciated and valued in France.
I
n 2018, Paris was the second largest market for Italian food products, with a particular preference for the dairy sector. Chefs of Italian background and pizza makers literally won over the hearts of French gourmands, thanks to a quality products at a fair price, which are often accompanied by a young and informal environment. And Big Mamma group restaurants, bars, and pizzerias are the best examples of this revival.
• The two founders, Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger, combined their studies in economics with a passion for Italy, and in a few years they have managed to set up the most successful informal restaurant chain in Paris, taking a chance on Italian food culture. The lucky strategy is to offer quality cuisine, with fresh ingredients but at very competitive prices; as the company slogan says, “if it is delicious and cheap it is already phenomenalâ€?. The starting point is certainly the supply of raw materials, which occurs three times a week for each restaurant strictly from Made in Italy suppliers.
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The staff is all Italian (and the job ads are strictly aimed at “specialised Italian staff” – chefs, pizza makers, commis chefs and bakers), to whom the group even offers accommodation as a “Team Building" exercise. In the French capital, the group currently owns: East Mamma, Ober Mamma, Mamma Primi, Biglove Caffè, Pizzeria Popolare, Noentry and Pink Mamma, as well as La Felicità restaurant within Station F, which is located across 4,500 square meters, with a bakery, three bars, five restaurants and a café, and a 1,000 sqm terrace.
•
Quality and convenience Big Mamma prices are very popular but the menu is very diverse and high quality, thanks to an established trust relationship with about 200 producers and artisans that allows costs to remain contained. With a view to ensuring total transparency, the list of suppliers is available online on the group's website. The décor of the restaurants is young and informal; their look also makes a difference, as they are enhanced by modern and casual furnishings, open kitchen, and strictly woodfire pizza ovens.
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Pizza in Pala and trends by Caterina Orlandi
T
he modern-day pizza was born in Naples, but it has seen many variations which have often been contaminated by other professions and culinary habits. Although the peel pizza originated in Campania, according to some in the workshops of Neapolitan bakeries, what was once called “schiacciata” arrived in Lazio and the capital where it became one of the most consumed street foods in Rome to all intents and purposes. Topped with sliced meats, cheeses and much more, the peel pizza is also known as the “pizza a metro”, or “pizza by the metre”, precisely because it is sold on the basis of its length. From the Capitoline speciality as it was in the ’30s, the peel pizza has become a real “must” in pizzerias all over Italy. This is thanks to the talent of the numerous pizza chefs who top their creations with tempting ingredients that are appetising to both the eye and the palate. The pizza pala gets its name from its preparation: in bakeries it was indeed placed on a wooden peel of various lengths, before being laid on the cooking floor of the oven, for a direct cooking contact. The pala pizza’s distinctive characteristics include its
crunchy and light nature, resulting from a highly developed air pocket displacement. Furthermore, unlike the process for round pizzas, the proportions of water and flour are different. The high moisture content of these doughs implies a kind of cooking that is different to other types of pizza, such as the Neapolitan pizza. With the Neapolitan pizza, often precooking is required and the topping is frequently completed at the end of the cooking process. Furthermore, it is important to remember that, for peel pizzas, flour with an increased extensibility and a protein content in which gliadin levels are higher than glutenin is generally preferred. (Gliadin and glutenin are the two proteins responsible for the elasticity and firmness of the dough: the higher their content, the higher the quality of the flour.) Starting out as regional products, the pizza pala have become extremely widespread over the last few years. Last but not least, it is important to note the rise of franchises and bars that are entirely dedicated to such products, from Gabriele Bonci’s “Pizzarium”, to “Scrocchiarella” in Moscow.
Pizza Pala receipe Starter Dough
—−1 Lt. water — −2.0 kg flour W=300-350 — −10g dried yeast Put the water, 2 kg of flour and the yeast into the mixer. Mix for 3 minutes, leaving the dough rough (it should not be well-blended). Leave the dough to rest for apprx 16/18 hours at 18-20°C
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+QUALITY -CONSUMPTION
—−3 kg flour W= 300 — −15g yeast — −2.1 Lt water — 1.5 Kg starter dough — 2% salt per Kg of flour (80g) — 2% oil per Kg of flour (80g) Place the pre- dough into the mixer, add all of the flour, the yeast and 50% of the water. Mix for around 2 minutes a speed 1; add 5% of the water, after 12 minutes add the salt and on the 14th minute add the oil. Place on 2nd speed and add the remaining water a little at a time. Terminate the mixing at a temperature of around 24-25°C (75.2-77 °F). Place the dough into a greased container, remembering that it will triple in size. Cover with a lid and leave to rest for approx.24 hours in a fridge at 2-4°C (35.6-39.2 °F). Form the buns of 800-900g (1.76-1.98 lb) for a pizza of 70x30 cm (27.5-11.8 in). Leave to rest at room temperature until it has tripled in size.
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Pizza has changed and with it so has the job of the pizza maker. It may seem a truism, but behind this simple reflection are years of research and study about dough, pizza-making techniques, and ways to balance the ratio of water and flour; a journey that is far from being over. As types of flour and customer requirements change, appliance manufacturers must take into account the needs of those who work behind the counter, and it is essential to identify the most appropriate tools. We asked the Instructors of the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli for their views on the potential of an appliance – be it a dough mixer, an oven or a simple thermometer – and how to make the most of them. Far from wanting to change a working method – especially when it's already being successfully applied in your restaurant – we hope to be able to give readers ideas and tips.
Working tools: when and how to use them
by editorial staff
PREPARATION OF THE DOUGH
Graziano Bertuzzo, technical area manager Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli
Recommended mixer:
twin divinG
Recommended mixer:
arms mixer
SPIRAL MIXER
or fork mixer Medium hydration doughs (50% - 60%) Why? The dough is heated at a lower temperature and this facilitates maturation and especially leavening. Both twin arms and fork mixers are ideal for preparing soft pizzas, with a soft and homogeneous dough. These two machines are recommended for the preparation of a soft, Neapolitan-style pizza.
High hydration doughs (70% - 90%) Why? The higher speed of this type of mixer (the latest models reach 200 RPM) allows the structural proteins in the dough (gliadin and glutenin) to absorb more water, which is a predominant part of this type of dough. The heating temperature is higher than for the other two mixers (9 degrees); in addition, dough processing times are much shorter than with a fork mixer.
NB: The heat caused by the friction of the dough in the bowl changes depending on the type of mixer. Spiral ones heat up to 9 degrees, a key detail considering that the ideal temperature of pizza dough ranges between 21 and 24 degrees.
57 To ensure consistency and continuity in the production of dough it is necessary to check certain parameters, in particular acidity (pH) and temperature. The pH of a dough can vary depending on its level of hydration, maturation and leavening.
Thermometer:
TOOLS TO CONTROL THE DOUGH AND ITS INGREDIENTS
temperature is a key parameter for a successful dough: by controlling and managing the heating or cooling of the dough mass, greater consistency can be ensured, especially considering that the ideal temperature range for dough is between 20° and 25° C.
pH-meter: a pH-meter is a tool that can assist the pizza maker in this sense, especially considering that the pH of the dough changes over time. This happens because of internal chemical reactions that gradually change the characteristics of the dough, and in turn of the pizza that will be served. Too much acetic and lactic acid could compromise the gluten network, making it difficult to work, while too little would cause metabolic absorption problems. A pH-meter can help identify the most appropriate acidity (around 5.5, 5.6) at which you can start working the dough.
Leavening chamber: a tool "borrowed" from bread baking that is becoming indispensable in the work of many pizzerias. It is essential for indirect dough making, and it ensures the dough is always kept at the same temperature and with much more stable humidity and acidity parameters.
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Electric oven*
BAKING THE PIZZA
it's the most versatile tool for baking pizza, as it allows proper cooking of high-hydration and other types of doughs. Pizza cooks by evaporation, and in terms of heat distribution an electric oven guarantees a more constant cooking temperature, making the crust crispier.
Wood-fired oven* ideal for medium hydration doughs (see Neapolitan pizza), a wood-fired oven keeps the dough softer, as the higher heat cooks pizza but – thanks the shorter cooking times – keeps it moist, especially in the middle.
NB: Some latest-generation electric ovens can reach very high temperatures, ensuring a “Neapolitan” cooking style – a soft pizza, with puffed crust and typical "leopard" char spots. The market has adapted to the needs of the pizza makers that require traditional-style ovens even in restaurants where a chimney is not available.
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Do you know which yeast for pizza? by editorial staff
While water and flour are the two basic
fungus are lost in time, we know for
ingredients for pizza dough, yeast is the
example that both ancient Assyrians
catalyst that allows the transformation
and ancient Egyptians knew about its
of the dough into the baked goods that
properties. Its modern applications
we consume every day.
in the chemical, pharmaceutical and
While the origins of the use of this
food sectors date back to the late 19th century, coinciding with the development of the modern chemical industry. It would be very difficult to summarise here more than 3000 years of history; for this reason we will try to explain the applications and characteristics of yeast in relation to the main focus of our magazine: pizza.
W H AT A R E Y E A S T S ?
Y
easts are a group of single-celled fungi, of which about a thousand varieties have been identified. For food applications the most used type of saccharomyces is brewer's yeast, whose applications range from the production of bread to pizza, wine and beer. The structure of Saccharomyces cerevisiae – the scientific name of this yeast variety – consists of an external cell membrane, cytoplasm and a central nucleus.
The two main activities of this type of yeast depend on the presence of simple sugars, environmental conditions, presence of moisture and oxygen: these factors and their variations result in cell reproduction of the yeast or the fermentation of the food or drink that contains it, but before delving into this simple, yet critical process we should examine the types of yeast intended for food use.
pizza e pasta italiana pizza e pasta italiana
“CHEMICAL� YEASTS, COMPRESSED YEASTS & S O U R D O U G H S TA R T E R
Brewer's yeast, commonly found in the refrigerated section of the supermarket, owes its name to the fact that in the past it was obtained from deposits formed during the fermentation of beer barrels, while today it comes from a molasses compound; subsequently, through a series of industrial processes, the yeast is compressed into slabs with a 70% water content. Then, the yeast is dehydrated by reducing its moisture and obtaining dry yeast granules. Saccharomyces cerevisiae begins to reproduce in the presence of oxygen: this happens because of the air incorporated during the kneading phase. After the oxygen has been exhausted, the fungus triggers a fermentation mechanism that produces ethyl alcohol and the portion of carbon dioxide that makes the dough bubble and swell before and during cooking. Chemical leavening is used in several professional bakery products and very often for
home desserts. This type of fermentation produces carbon dioxide during cooking, swelling the dough. Chemical yeast, which is unlike those mentioned above, is actually a powdered compound of baking soda combined with an acid element that produces carbon dioxide during cooking. This type of reaction is generally abnormal for a natural yeasts, which at high temperatures cease any fermenting activities. The first powdered yeasts were created industrially in the late 1800s. Another type of chemical leavening is produced by ammonium bicarbonate or cooking ammonia, which is used in the preparation of particularly crumbly cookies. The contraindication of this type of leavening agent is the slight taste of ammonia, which must be avoided in cooking by following the right cooking times. One of the most common chemical yeasts is cream of tartar, whose applications range from pastry to baking. Natural yeast or sourdough starter is another important type of biological leavening. Historically, yeast was discovered by the people of
Ancient Mesopotamia and by ancient Egyptians. It has always been used in the production of bread and jealously guarded by master bakers generation after generation, until the advent of brewer's yeast and compressed yeast. Sourdough starters have been rediscovered in recent years, becoming a must for all lovers of baking. It is a mixture of water and flour that, when allowed to ferment at room temperature, develops colonies of yeast and lactic bacteria that reproduce and, when used in a dough, can make it rise. The fermentation is the same as with brewer's yeast, with an increase in the volume of the dough and the formation of air pockets in the baked product. Unlike compressed yeast, despite also containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a sourdough starter develops multiple yeast and lactic acid bacteria colonies: their fermentation releases special fragrances and flavours that are very sought after in baking. The increased acidity present in naturally leavened dough also preserves it better, keeping staleness at bay for longer.
Valoriani Ovens, a century-long story at your service
pizza e pasta italiana pizza e pasta italiana
Leavening and maturation: two key processes by editorial staff
Focus on two fundamental processes that occur after the preparation of the pizza dough: leavening and maturation.
B 
oth of these processes help to transform the prepared mix with water, flour, oil, salt and yeast into the baked goods that we consume every day. While the choice of flour determines the product we want to make (bread, pizza, puff pastry, biscuit, cake), the level of hydration, i.e. the ratio of water and flour in a dough mix, can also lead to very different results. All this also affects the leavening of the dough;
for example, the higher the protein content of the flour, the longer the time for leavening and especially maturation of the dough to be produced. The reason is simple: the protein content in the flour determines the elasticity and strength of the dough; as a result, its ability to resist the swelling produced by carbon dioxide that forms inside the dough during leavening will be greater with a higher protein content. Gluten has a water absorption capacity equal to one and a half times its weight, therefore for highly hydrated doughs it is recommended to use flours with high flour strength W.
pizza e pasta italiana pizza e pasta italiana
LEAVENING A N D R E S P I R AT I O N
Brewer's yeast, which is normally used for the production of pizza dough, can act in two modes: aerobiosis and anaerobiosis, i.e. with or without oxygen, respectively. During alcoholic fermentation, anaerobiosis occurs, or the process by which the yeast feeds on the simple sugars in the pizza dough and produces ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide. This process is called leavening and is the basis for the transformation of the dough itself. Aerobiosis or cellular respiration occurs in the same manner, but in the presence of oxygen: in this case the yeast will reproduce by budding, that is, with a yeast cell that will detach from the mother cell. This process occurs naturally and is the basis for yeast reproduction. Leavening and respiration are the two main functions of brewer's yeast, but there are some factors that can prevent or facilitate their occurrence: The presence or absence of simple sugars in the dough
Ambient temperature Leavening time While simple sugars are literally food for the yeast (it feeds on sugars and multiplies), time and temperature affect the leavening. At very low temperatures, between 2 and 6°C, the yeast's metabolism is very slowed down; these are the storage temperatures in the refrigerator, where yeast keeps its leavening power in full for about 3-4 weeks. At temperatures above 38° the fermenting activity increases, but little by little the yeast cells begin to dissipate, until they completely cease activity once the temperature reaches 55° - 60° C. Carbon dioxide will puff up the dough until it doubles in volume, and with an increase in external heat, for example when the pizza is placed in the oven, it will be possible to see the pizza disc rise; after reaching the limit temperature of 55°-60° C, it will continue to cook up to
95 degrees. Another critical factor to take into account is leavening time, which may be longer or shorter depending on ambient temperature or the quality of the flour used to prepare of the dough. In regard to managing time and temperature, there is another process that affects the dough and gives it a greater quality and digestibility: maturation. Leavening involves an increase in the volume of the dough through the production of carbon dioxide that remains trapped in the gluten network, while maturation is a process of transformation – or rather, a group of processes – that makes the pizza dough more digestible. Basically, during kneading the most complex structures such as starches, proteins and fats are progressively broken down into the corresponding simplest elements: starches into simple sugars, proteins into amino acids, and fats into lipids.
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ITA LI A N E XCE L L E NCE
Bresaola by Caterina Vianello
69
Th e b e a u t if u l r e d col our i s i ts d is t in c t i ve fe atur e , o n e t ha t ma k e s i t i m m e di a te ly r e c o g n i sabl e . The t r a i n e d e y e t he n take s n o t ic e o f t he subtl e dar k edg e o f it s le an par t and t h e w h it e c o lour i ng of i ts f a t t y p a r t . I t s s m el l i s del ic at e a n d sl i g htl y a ro m a tic ; o n th e p al at e, the s alty n o t e s a r e p e r cei ved f i rs t , fo l l o w e d b y a n en t i c i n g l y c o m p l e x a n d mo dera tely s ap i d f l a v o ur.
L
ike many other traditional Italian cold cuts, Bresaola is at once a concentrate of ancient knowledge and customs – between the search for flavour and the need to adapt to the seasons and to the potential shortages of resources – and a product that doesn't need any accompaniments to shine. While the use of preserving meat by salting and drying it is common to many cultures, the particular geography of the province of Sondrio has led this product to be considered a delicacy, one whose value has been acknowledged with the PGI certification since 1996. The first indications of Bresaola production date back to the fifteenth century, but its origins certainly go way back. The production remained limited to family businesses until the first decades of the nineteenth century, and it was only in 1900 that the artisanal processing of this cold cut became significant enough to cross national borders and reach Switzerland.
Bresaola's production area is the whole Sondrio province in Lombardy, which includes two main Alpine valleys: Valtellina and Valchiavenna. According to historical-literary tradition, the latter is the birthplace of the product. The secret of the uniqueness of Bresaola depends on several elements: the climate, with the cool and dry air and rather low temperature of the production area; the choice of the best beef leg cuts; and finally, the specific processing rules, which include official guidelines as well as secrets safeguarded and passed on by the producers (the careful blend of natural aromas). The origin of the name is unclear; in the past, it has also been called brazaola, brisaola or bresavola, with the suffix “saola” apparently hinting at the use of salt in the preservation of the product. Some believe that the etymology traces back to the Germanic “brasa”, embers: in fact, in ancient times, braziers were used to heat and reduce humidity in curing chambers. These braziers emanated aromatic smoke obtained by throwing juniper berries and bay leaves on burning fir wood coals. Others trace the term to the dialect “brisa”, which indicates an especially salty bovine gland. Over time, in any case, the original “brisaola” became today's “bresaola”. The original PGI bresaola is produced exclusively from meat obtained from legs of beef aged between 18 months and four years: the cuts used are topside, eye of silverside, silverside, eye of round and thick flank.
Bresaola's production area is the whole Sondrio province in Lombardy
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They provide not only an excellent product from an organoleptic point of view (in terms of texture, tenderness, flavour, colour, leanness, and absence of marbling), but also from a nutritional one (lower fat content). The meat is trimmed, then dry salted, adding spices, herbs and natural aromas. Salting varies from 10 to 15 days. Then, each individual piece is packed into natural or artificial casings. The drying stage lasts an average of a week. Aging takes place in air-conditioned chambers, with good ventilation, at an average temperature of 12-18°C. Aging time varies from 4 to 8 weeks.
The producers belonging to the Consortium mainly use meat from European and South American cattle farms, of Charolaise, Limousine, Blonde d'Aquitaine and Garonnese or Piedmontese breeds. They also use the pure Zebu, which has very lean meat. Compared to the past, when saltiness prevailed, today processing techniques have developed, leading to a sweeter, more tender product, more pleasing to the palate. Bresaola is a very nutritious type of cold cut, by far the leanest, rich in protein, iron, mineral salts and vitamins. We recommend trying it first by itself, sliced thinly (0,6-0,8 mm) to best appreciate its tenderness and aromas. It can also be a valuable ingredient to add interest to more complex dishes, such as tagliolini, risotto, rolls, salads and savoury strudels.
Aging time varies from 4 to 8 weeks
THIRTY YEARS OF MADE IN ITALY QUALITY Quality of the components, customer service, reliability and sustainability over time. Always sensible to environment themes, the R&D department of GAM International looks continuously for innovative materials and technical solutions to be used in the products. The target is to grow manufacturing cutting-edge machines that have to be user-friendly, safe and with the lowest possible impact on the environment.
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by Caterina Vianello
Pecorino
Romano
It is an Italian delicacy
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It is on e of th e o l des t ch e e se s i n th e wo rl d, c i ted b y fa mo us Ro m a n a utho rs s u ch a s Va r r o n e, P li n y The El d e r, H i p p o c ra t es a n d Columella.
P
ecorino Romano has been appreciated from the very beginning, and was a staple in Roman mansions and among its soldiers (who received a daily ration of 27 grams to supplement their bread and farro soup). It is an Italian delicacy and its success abroad is evidence of its extraordinary nature. Do not be misled by its name: Lazio is not the only region where it is produced, but also Tuscany and especially Sardinia. The reason for this double (triple) homeland dates back to 1884, when the mayor of Rome introduced a ban on salting cheese within the city; this imposition forced many Roman dairymen to move production to Sardinia, an island with a strong sheep farming tradition. In Sardinia, Pecorino Romano thrived, so much so that today, despite the official guidelines identifying the island, Lazio and the province of Grosseto as production areas, the Consortium (which has been protecting the PDO mark since 1996) is based in Macomer (Nuoro), and 95% of Pecorino production comes from Sardinia. Credit for the goodness of one of the most exported (and imitated) cheeses abroad is equally shared by sheep and dairymen,
who have always had a perfectly harmonious relationship. The former give milk, while the latter process it. Pecorino Romano is a fatty, hard consistency cheese with a medium -to long-term maturation period. It requires a starter culture called "scotta innesto", a group of native lactic bacteria, to be added to fresh, full-cream sheep's milk (mainly of Sardinian breed), coagulated (at 38°-40°) with lamb rennet. The dairyman then breaks the cheese by reducing the curds to the size of a grain of wheat. The curd is subsequently semi-cooked or cooked at 45-48°. Once extracted and shaped into individual wheels, it is pressed into hoops. At this stage the cheese is also stamped with the details of the dairy, month and year of production. To make sure it is original, look for the PDO mark and official symbol on the side: a stylized sheep head inside a diamond with rounded corners. The wheels are then dry or wet salted in brine. Prepare for a long wait before tasting: the maturation time varies from a minimum
95% of Pecorino production comes from Sardinia
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of 5 months (for table cheese) to at least 8 (for grating), but it can reach 12 or even 18 months. The wait, however, will be rewarded: with a cylindrical shape (with flat surfaces), a height between 25 and 40 cm, a diameter between 25 and 35 cm and a weight varying between 20 and 35 kg, Pecorino Romano is first of all a beautiful cheese to look at, solid and elegant. The rind is thin, ivory white or straw yellow, although sometimes it can be a gorgeous black colour. Do not be afraid: it is simply a "cappatura", or a protection. The cheese is hard and compact, becoming more crumbly with ripening; the colour is white
or more or less intense straw, and the "eyes" (the small holes in the cheese) are very fine and smooth. The smell is reminiscent of grass, sheep's milk and slightly piquant notes. The flavour is aromatic and mildly sharp for table cheese, but it becomes decidedly piquant, intense and more complex for cooking and grating types, overwhelming the palate. The traditional pairing of choice is with broad beans: however, a generous grating of pecorino is excellent on gnocchi and soups.
The traditional pairing of choice is with broad beans
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Fiordilatte by Caterina Vianello
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Th e I tal i a n a g ri c ult ural an d fo o d h er i ta g e i s one o f th e s t r en g th s o f the n a t i o n al ec o n o m y : it s r i ch n es s a nd i t s d iv er s i t y, d er i ved fro m Ital y ' s r eg i o n al h i s to ry, make i t a p o w e rf ul e con o m i c , g eo g ra ph i c al, cul t ural , en v i ro n m en tal an d to ur i s m dri ver. F o r this r ea s o n , s ta rt i n g this m o n th , w e wi ll be d e d i c a t i n g a c o lum n to the j ew el s o f our a g ri food i n d us t r y, bri ef ly in t r o d u c i n g thei r h i s to ry as w el l a s g i v i n g s o m e t ips o n th ei r us e i n th e kit ch en .
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his month we focus on Fiordilatte, an illustrious representative of the large pulled-curd cheese family, which is one of the cultural mainstays of the Italian dairy tradition (of the South, in particular). Although it is also improperly called mozzarella (which is actually made with buffalo milk), Fiordilatte is a pulled-curd cheese made with cow's milk: for pizza aficionados or for those who work in the pizza sector this clarification may be unnecessary, since pizza makers tend to know all the secrets of the ingredients they use. Yet, given the confusion between the two products (Fiordilatte and mozzarella), it is worth remembering that while
mozzarella refers to pulled-curd cheese made exclusively with Campanian buffalo milk, Fiordilatte is a type of fresh pulledcurd cheese made from whole cow's milk, with the same technique. To add to the confusion, Fiordilatte is produced with the name Mozzarella TSG (Traditional Specialty Guaranteed), and was inserted in the P.A.T. list (Prodotto Agroalimentare Tradizionale, traditional Italian food products) by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry. To avoid doubts, we should consider the origin of the milk, which is cow in the case of Fiordilatte. The milk used for the production comes from one or more consecutive milkings carried out over sixteen hours, which is delivered raw to the dairy within 24 hours of the first milking. The shape of Fiordilatte is variable: roundish, spherical (sometimes with head and knot), twisted, or rectangular, depending on the area of origin. The weight varies from smaller sizes (20 gr for milk cherries) to 250 gr and a diameter of 15-30 cm. The colour is a beautiful milky white with straw tones, with tender skin and a smooth, shiny and homogeneous surface. It is easily cut, slightly elastic, and it releases a typical milky liquid when squeezed or pressed by a knife. The taste is very fresh, like slightly sour milk.
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Try it Among the best types is the “Fior di Latte Appennino Meridionale�, which has been awarded the PDO certification: it is produced in Campania (provinces of Avellino, Benevento, Caserta, Naples and Salerno), Molise (province of Campobasso), Basilicata (Potenza), Calabria (Cosenza), Apulia (Bari, Foggia and Taranto) and in Lazio (provinces of Frosinone and Latina). The processing requires a starter culture from the previous processing to be added to heated milk. Then, natural liquid calf rennet is added, which causes coagulation. At the end of this process the curd is broken, forming granules the size of a hazelnut. After ripening, the curd is cut into strips.
Then, near-boiling water is added to be able to knead the curd. Cutting, which can be manual or mechanical, is followed by cooling in water, salting and packaging. Kneading is undoubtedly the most delicate stage of the process: this is where the experience and skills of the dairyman come into play. We recommend eating Fiordilatte as fresh as possible, to better appreciate the richness of its flavour and aromas (reminiscent not only of milk, but also of herbs). In the kitchen, while it is predominantly used for pizza, try it in a Caprese salad: its delicate flavour will amaze you.
in a Caprese salad
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We are not just manufacturers of PIZZA OVENS & EQUIPMENT but also provide ALL THE KNOW-HOW needed to make YOUR PIZZA along with a layout and design service for your premises. OEM ALI S.p.A. Viale Lombardia, 33 - Bozzolo (MN) - T +39 0376 910511 F +39 0376 920754 info@oemali.com - www.oemali.com
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In an increasingly digital world
Pizza is more and more gourmet by Giampiero Rorato
W
e are living in an era of rapid evolution, as evidenced by social media and the tools that we use to learn, communicate and keep up with the news. This magazine, with its website, can be read and consulted all over the world; the current issue as well as the previous ones are available, so that if you want you can learn more about the many issues relating to pizza and its ingredients, as well as topics related to hospitality in general, desserts, wine, beer, tourism, and more.
Tools and ways of communicating that were unknown at the beginning of this century – which was less than 20 years ago – are now in the hands of millennials, the generation aged between 18 and 34 years, or the first hyperconnected generation. If a 100 Mbps connection, digital tools, smartphones, tablets and so on are the current basis for all communication, what's the status of actual human relationships, face-to-face conversations, reading newspapers and media in general? Is it still the same as in the pre-millennial generation, or has it changed? These questions concern relationships, actual knowledge of the events of the world, and our opinion on the problems of our community. Do they have a real answer, or should we take what we read on social media at face value? Our answers to these questions affect our way of being in society: we can be self-aware and responsible, or follow the loudest people, or those most aggressively present on social media. Advertising is one
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element of this, as its purpose is to persuade people to choose a particular product, shop, wine, brand of shoes, restaurant, pizzeria, etc. It is clear that anyone who owns a restaurant, a pizzeria, a patisserie, a wine cellar or similar must pay attention to these things. Another question arises here: are we free to choose or are we victims of advertising, especially subliminal? How can we really be free to choose a product, a brand of shoes, a pizzeria, a type of beer? This is the problem of millennials, but not just theirs, because it is easy to follow trends, the most advertised (often obsessively) products, the most acclaimed wine, or the most popular restaurant according to the media – we may even feel forced to do so. On the other hand, it is much more difficult to do one's own research, try, experiment and investigate, and often we don't even have enough time to do it. The same is true for politics, where it is easier to follow the crowd than to make carefully thought-out choices.
The world of pizza
T
rue, this is our world today, but we are certainly not forced to follow the latest trends; we have the ability to think for ourselves, to not follow the crowd, to understand when we are wrong, to choose critically. And this ability to choose freely is given mainly by knowledge, which does not mean knowing poems by heart, but making careful choices after careful evaluation, and a critical assessment of the role of advertising. And after the theory, let's now talk about practice. The world of pizza in recent years has grown significantly, spurring growth also for related industries, mills, oven factories, producers for toppings, etc. It is not a coincidence that the professional knowledge of many pizza makers has grown through discussions with colleagues; they realised that the flour they used was not appropriate, so they tried others; not all their customers liked a particular type of tomato sauce, mushrooms in oil, or mozzarella, and therefore they switched types.
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The Pizza World Championship, now in its 28th edition, has seen a number of competitions between pizza makers, hundreds and hundreds of contests, debates about products, processing techniques, ovens and working tools. The thousands of pizza makers who over 27 years have participated in this extraordinary event did not communicate digitally, but face to face, confiding their choices to each other, the various techniques. And thanks also to these encounters – or, I should say, thanks especially to these encounters – in recent years pizza makers all around the world have succeeded in making truly gourmet pizzas, i.e. pizzas that don't just aim to relieve hunger, but also to give new and interesting flavour sensations and true gastronomic pleasure. The encounters at the World Pizza Championship have produced a great professional culture, a better knowledge of the products, and consequently have led pizza makers to more careful choices in the products they use, prioritising quality. Of course we are allowed to use social media, but we don't have to do it slavishly. We must keep up with the changing times, but with agency, at work and in society, because while it's true that the world is changing we shouldn't let cunning people change it to our detriment. That's why in a changing, increasingly digital world we should not follow the latest trend, but our own mind, in constant dialogue with those around us.
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The Italian leader food machinery company
Tecnodom S.p.A. Via Isonzo, n. 5 - 35010 Vigodarzere (Padova) - Italy Tel.: +39 049 8874215 Fax: +39 049 8870507 E-mail: info@tecnodomspa.com www.tecnodomspa.com
Tecnodom S.p.A. is an Italian company producing food machinery with over thirty years of experience and know-how. The experience in the sectors of catering, large distribution, bakery and confectionery has led the company to a significant technical improvement and to an excellent offer for their customer in accordance with the latest regulations and research on the preparation, maintenance, blast freezing, cooking and display of any type of food. Tecnodom provides all the necessary equipment developing technical aspects that only those who know the whole food process thoroughly can enhance and optimize. Tecnodom® products are more and more requested in the bakery sector because the user is aware of their excellent performance, ease of use, cleaning and maintenance combined with the Italian design and quality. Moreover, the company can count on a highly qualified technical and sales department and, above all, on the family that has been running the company since the beginning of its activity. All products for the food preservation allow to store and maintain raw materials in a professional environment, avoiding sudden changes in temperature deriving from opening and closing the doors of the refrigerators many times a day like it happens in labs and professional kitchens. Thanks to an ongoing research, Tecnodom® has developed an international patent called DOMSYSTEM® that completely revolutionizes the internal set-up system for vertical and horizontal displays. The horizontal serveover displays are available in different sizes and styles, and not only guarantee highest level of maintenance, but are also in line with the strictest food safety regulations. Today, dough preparation can rely on
water coolers, the easiest way to control the temperature of the dough. These tools are essential to maintain the organoleptic properties of gluten, contributing to high quality standards of the finished product. Blast freezing has become a necessary process for many food service sectors. It is an important prerogative to avoid bacteria proliferation in food and to better organize the production processes. This process, carried out by the new blast freezer called ATTILA®, allows products such as leavened dough to be “frozen” into micro-crystals, maintaining its molecular structure and properties. The cooking process is carried out by the lines called NERONE®, which is also suitable for the regeneration of foods through steam. Tecnodom® ovens are designed to reduce food preparation times while maintaining the consistency of every part of the cooking process. The regeneration of frozen products allows considerable economic savings as well as being a process that Tecnodom® knows very well since it’s the result of a great number of tests carried out in their laboratories. For Tecnodom® food preparation can be considered complete only when the display of the finished products is at the same level of its production and enhances its quality. The lines of refrigerated and heated displays are available in both vertical and horizontal units, and Tecnodom® put them on the market after having tested them in laboratory in the most adverse climatic conditions, obtaining excellent results and important awards. All Tecnodom® products are entirely designed and manufactured in Italy.
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"Piccola Cucina" n a e n a r r e t i d cilian e M d Si n an dition i k tra w Yor e N By editorial staff
P
hilip Guardione is the Executive Chef and owner of the “Piccola Cucina” restaurants. Born in 1981 in Catania, from an early age Guardione was learning about the products and dishes typical of his region, and when he was a little more than a teenager he followed his dream of becoming a chef. After several professional experiences, in 2008 Guardione landed in the Big Apple and settled there, opening his first restaurant – Piccola Cucina Enoteca – with the intent of becoming a spokesperson for authentic Italian cuisine. From then on, he experienced a staggering success with critics and public alike, which enabled
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him to open two more restaurants in New York and then in Ibiza. What all restaurants have in common is a cuisine true to Guardione's origins, which includes creative dishes from the Sicilian tradition; they are sometimes revisited in a modern, innovative perspective, with the aim of promoting the cuisine of the island by focusing on Italian raw ingredients of the highest quality.. Currently, Philip Guardione's restaurants are among the most popular in the Big Apple, and appear among the top results in the most important search engines dedicated to cooking, as well as in some of the most famous international guides dedicated to Italian restaurants in the world.
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Pasta a m r o alla N
2020
One of the symbols of Italian, but especially Sicilian cuisine is Pasta alla Norma, a dish that needs no introduction, made with simple and genuine ingredients such as tomato sauce, fried eggplant, grated salted ricotta and fresh basil, a symbol of Mediterranean flavours and aromas.
The recipe Ingredients for 4 people 500 g tomatoes 400 g aubergines 350 g of maccheroni al ferretto 100 g salted ricotta 2 cloves garlic 1 bunch of basil Rock salt, pepper, frying oil, E.V.O. oil Preparation time: 40 min + 1 h rest
Preparation Cut half of the aubergines into cubes, and half into round slices (2-3 mm thick). Lay them in layers in a colander, sprinkling each layer with rock salt; let them stand for about an hour, until they have released their liquid and their bitter taste. Wash the tomatoes, score them on the bottom and immerse them in boiling water for a few moments; drain them, peel them, cut them into quarters and squeeze them slightly to remove the seeds and vegetation water; chop them with a knife on a cutting board. Rinse the aubergines to remove the excess salt and pat them dry with kitchen paper towels. In a large frying pan, heat plenty of oil and fry the aubergines (a few pieces
at a time, to prevent them from sticking to each other). Once golden, drain them on a plate and season with salt. Heat 4 tablespoons of EVO oil in a frying pan, add the peeled garlic and crush it to flavour the sauce. Once browned, the garlic can be removed from the pan, if desired. Add the tomatoes, the fried diced aubergines, the basil, salt and pepper and cook for 15/20 min. In a pot, bring to a boil plenty of salted water and cook the pasta. Pour a ladleful of sauce on a plate, add the drained pasta – better if al dente –and serve. Finish the dish with the rest of the sauce, the fried aubergine slices, basil and grated ricotta.
Passion, quality, innovation We’ve been manufacturing with passion, for over 30 years, high quality professional pizza tools. Exactly the same passion pizza makers use to create their masterpieces of taste.
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The masters of Italian excellence Since 1963 we have been designing and producing electric ovens, gas ovens and equipment for pizzerias. The passion for our work is expressed in the beauty and quality of our products. Beware of imitations.
Ovens and equipment for pizzerias www.cuppone.com
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The masters of Italian excellence Since 1963 we have been designing and producing electric ovens, gas ovens and equipment for pizzerias. The passion for our work is expressed in the beauty and quality of our products. Beware of imitations.
Ovens and equipment for pizzerias www.cuppone.com
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French pizza and Italian pizza J
ulien Panet is the director of France Pizza magazine, the organizer of Parizza (an event that gathers the most important companies operating in the world of pizza in the French capital) and the organizer of the France Pizza tour and the French Pizza Championship. The French are among the biggest pizza consumers in the world; they consume up to 5 kg of pizza a year, and over 800 million pizzas are baked on the other side of the Alps. Julien Panet tells us the reasons behind this success and the main similarities and differences with the Italian market.
“Pizza in France is very popular. Why do you think the French public likes pizza so much?” Sylvie Sanchez explains the phenomenon very well in her work/book “Culture et mondialisation”. In France, the culture of pizza comes from Italian people who emigrated between 1920-1930, especially from the South. There was already a base culture of products ready to embrace pizza: tomato, garlic, oil... In the last 20 years, American food chains have brought pizza all over France, and in response there has been a return to more artisan alternatives. Sylvie Sanchez explains that 20% of customers buy 80% of "American" pizza, and 80% of customers make up 20% of the traditional turnover. “Compared to a few years ago, there is much more choice in products and equipment. In Italy for example there is the Pizza on the Peel trend, but also organic products and more and more companies offer gluten-free semi-finished products, food and services. Does the same thing happen in France? Or are there other options?”
France is very traditional when it comes to pizza. The Neapolitan style is very appreciated, and gluten-free alternatives are not currently widespread (very few places in Paris offer them). There are some pizza makers who use a range of flours for innovative dough mixes, for example Gennario Nasti (Bijoux Pizzeria) with wholemeal pizza, or Julien Serri who makes a "portafoglio" (rolled up) Neapolitan pizza. In France, especially in Paris, customers want organic, artisan, Italian products, preferably with DOC or Slow Food certifications. Pizza by the slice exists, but it currently occupies a negligible market niche; Serri's rolled up Neapolitan pizza sells very well, but this is due to the fact that his is an innovative product for France and that he uses artisan, high-quality products. “What is the most popular type of restaurant in France? The takeout pizzeria? Pizza by the slice? With seating? With many or a few tables? What do you think are the three main characteristics that a quality establishment must have?” The Big Mamma group and its restaurants are an example of successful restaurants: the French like to eat out, and this applies to pizza as well. People who go to an Italian pizzeria look for a culinary experience but not only that; they look for a comfortable, modern, elegant and original environment, where they can eat well at a fair price. There are many skilled Italian chefs who offer quality cuisine, authentic and modern at the same time. Of course Italy remains a great destination for cultural and food and wine tourism, but those who cannot travel can now find many stylish, fashionable restaurants at home, and with quality food. Reception is also important: warmth, friendliness and politeness are essential to retain customers. Three characteristics of a successful pizzeria in France, in your opinion. The premises must be elegant and modern, they should use quality artisan products, and the dishes must be priced "right".
Argentina, Javier Labake J
avier G. Labake is the director of the "Escuela Professional de Maestro Pizzeros, Empanaderos y Cocineros", which trains future Argentinian pizza and food professionals. The school originated from "APPYCE-Asociación de Pizzeros y Propietarios de casas de Empanadas de la República Argentina", and in 2018 it received a certification from the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS). This recognises the school's quality standards and its contribution to improving the level of training of pizza makers, empanaderos and chefs. How did pizza get to Argentina? And how did it spread? Pizza arrived in Argentina in 1900 with the immigration of our Italian grandparents, and it was especially the capital, Buenos Aires, that welcomed many Italians, mostly from Genoa. The first Argentinian pizzas resembled the Ligurian focaccia, with a very thick crust and very few toppings. The first Argentinian pizza that we have evidence of is the "Pizza de Cancha”, so called because topped only with hot tomato sauce and sold by street vendors during major sporting events. The seller would have a tray loaded with pizzas, and after setting up a folding table, would sell the “Pizza de Cancha” to the public. Compared to Italy, where there is a rediscovery of traditional pizzas (Roman, organic and Neapolitan pizza to name a few), what are the most popular pizzas in Argentina?
Pizza's compared Argentinian pizza was originally a poor people's dish, with few ingredients; now the toppings are much richer, with meat, cheeses, vegetables and much more. They are very “generous” pizzas, often shared by 3 or 4 people. In Argentina we have four types of pizza that are the most popular: 1.- Massa al Molde: Similar to Pan Pizza, but with a diameter of 33 cm. 2.- Media Massa: very similar to the "Massa al Molde" but with less dough, and therefore not as thick (very similar to your Roman pizza) 3. Pizza a La Piedra: thinner and crispier, and baked directly on the refractory stone of the oven (very similar to Italian pizza) 4.- Italian Pizza: Neapolitan style pizza, which is becoming more and more popular in Argentina. Traditional Argentinian dough mixes are much heavier compared to those in Italy; the average amount of dough per pizza is 440 grams for a 33 cm size, to which a lot of ingredients are added; therefore, it's a dish that is difficult to eat alone and that can feed a number of people. “Qual è la fotografia del mercato della pizza in Argentina? È in crescita? Ci sono tante pizzerie?” La pizza è un piatto nutriente e in Argentina è sinonimo di condivisione. Per chi apre un locale, la pizza può diventare un’attività molto redditizia, prima di tutto perché è economica – e in tempi di crisi è un fattore da non sottovalutare – sia per chi la consuma che per chi la produce. Le pizzerie in Argentina stanno aumentando, attualmente ce ne sono circa seimila ufficiali, un migliaio solo nel centro di Buenos Aires, duemila nei sobborghi della capitale e il rimanente n tutto il resto del paese. La nostra “Escuela Professional de Maestro Pizzeros, Empanaderos y Cocineros”, - Scuola professionale di cucina, pizza e empanadas” -, opera da diverso tempo per formare i futuri professionisti della cucina e anche della pizza. Stiamo insegnando ai nostri allievi come fare delle pizze più digeribili, riducendo il peso degli impasti, allungando i tempi di fermentazione e maturazione e ottimizzando le quantità di ingredienti per la farcitura.
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Pete Lachapelle President /Editor of “Pizza Today” magazine
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n 1978 he graduated from Boston University with a degree in marketing. Pete has been in the publishing business since 1979. He has been the editor of 11 newspapers, has worked for some of the major publishing houses, and in the last 30 years he's specialized in the agri-food sector in the last 30 years. Pete is also a member of the NRA (National Restaurant Association) and has recently established the Pizzeria Industry Council, with the goal of increasing the success rate of independent pizzerias. In the coming years, the council will develop means and resources for pizzerias to find business solutions and opportunities.
Pete La Chapelle
Bill Oakley He joined Pizza Today and Pizza Expo in 1994 as Bill Oakley
What is the situation of the pizza market in the United States? (Bill Oakley) – There are currently more than 91,000 pizzerias in the U.S. Over the past 5 years, the pizza industry has grown by about 2.5%, with returns of $47 million in 2018. In addition, during this period the number of pizzerias increased by 2%, and the number of employees by 2.5%. Currently around more than 1 million people work in this sector. (Pete Lachapelle) The pizza industry in America is doing very well, with a projected 10% growth in the coming years; pizzerias are about 90,000 and generate billions of dollars in revenue. How has the pizza market changed in recent years? What about the job of pizza makers? (B. O.) Due to the declining unemployment rate, it is much more difficult to find skilled labour that is here to stay. (P. L.) The last 6-8 years have been very exciting. We have seen the rapid growth of fast casual pizzerias, such as Blaze Pizza, MOD, Pieology, Pie Five and PizzaRev. In the last 3 years, however, they've all experienced a decrease in the number of staff and revenue. In my opinion, they are excellent restaurants, but the number of staff for a fast casual experience is currently too high to be profitable.
financial manager. Prior to this role, Bill worked for Senator McConnell. Bill graduated from the University of Kentucky with a degree in marketing and economics.
American Pizza and Italian pizza: What are the similarities and differences? What's the pizza most loved by Americans? (B. O.) In America, more and more styles of pizza are available and appreciated by consumers: Neapolitan, Peel, New York, Pan, Greek (pizza with high edges and Mediterranean ingredients), California (pizza-style flatbread that is appreciated for its topping), Chicago stuffed pizza with a very high edge), Detroit, St. Louis (pizza with a thin, crispy base) and New Haven (crispy, very thin base), just to name a few styles. (P. L.) For many years, pizzerias have served only one style of pizza. In recent years, they've had to add 1 or 2 styles to the production line, which has generated a greater volume of customers. Neapolitan pizza has been very popular and many restaurants installed a wood-fired oven to increase sales. But in essence, American customers did not embrace this way of making pizza, and its popularity waned, leaving room for more modern styles that require lower cooking temperatures. Today, the most popular styles are New York, with a thinner crust and a large diameter (of course), followed by pizza on the peel, Grandma style (home-style pan pizza), Detroit – a very high pan pizza, and traditional Pan pizza.
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Pizza's compared
Vegan, gluten free and pizza on the peel: what are the new pizza trends in the USA?
In your opinion, what are the three basic rules for a good pizza?
(B. O.) Pizza on the peel is certainly the newest, most impactful type on the American market. (P. L.) Gluten-free pizza is here to stay. The new gluten free flours currently on the market give excellent results and gluten-free pizzas are less and less different from normal ones. Other popular trends are pan pizza, Romana, Detroit, Grandma and Sici.
(B.O.) In my opinion there are two basic rules for a good pizza: the experience of the pizza maker and the quality of the ingredients used. (P. L.) there are no secrets or magic tricks to make a good pizza, except these: find the best possible ingredients, love what you do, pay attention to details ...and practice, practice, practice
 The future of pizza in the United States: what do you think about the products, technologies and work of pizza makers? (B. O.) According to the 2nd annual Harris Poll study, if Americans could choose 1 food for the rest of their lives, they would choose pizza, according to 21% of respondents. Here are some of the reasons given: most Americans think that it is good, ready to eat, suitable even for those with food restrictions, and reasonably priced when compared to other options. The delivery methods are countless, and finally, it can be eaten without cutlery.
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Germany
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Mario Trabalza (class of 1966) is an Italian professional journalist and has been living in Munich since 1996. Passionate about cooking, in 2012 he started collaborating with Buongiorno Italia, an Italian-language magazine for Italian restaurateurs in Germany. From 2017 to February 2019 he served as its editor-in-chief. Since March this year he has been collaborating with G24 Stunden Gastlichkeit, a German magazine dedicated to the restaurant sector, as an expert in Italian restaurants in Germany.
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“In the last few years, the types of pizza available in Italy have become more and more diverse: vegan, gluten free, organic, gourmet, but more traditional pizza types are also coming back in vogue. Are there similarities in Germany? Or are pizzerias more traditional? In Germany options have expanded in recent years too, but nothing compared to Italy. For example, gluten free pizzas have become common due to the increase in food intolerances, but the vast majority of Italian restaurants offer traditional pizzas, without making distinctions with the real Neapolitan one, for example. There are of course also restaurants that offer a wider choice, ranging from Neapolitan to gourmet pizzas, but as I said, they are still the minority.
Mario Trabalza
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“What is the most popular type of pizzeria in Germany? Takeaway? Table service? Home delivery? How many pizzerias are there currently in Germany?� Home delivery and takeaway are very popular types. There are German chains, or chains not managed by Italians, that deliver pizzas at home. Quality, however, leaves much to be desired. Italian restaurants offer mainly takeaway (home delivery is less common, due to the logistic costs), while table service pizzerias are very popular. In Germany Italian restaurant types are very specific, combining restaurant and pizzeria together. This is because restaurateurs want to offer customers both options: pizza or pasta, or a meat or fish main, depending on the taste of the customer. The restaurateurs who offer only pizza or who exclude it from the menu at all are the minority, even if over the last 5-10 years more and more restaurants have popped up who are exclusively pizzerias or restaurants. Due to the reason above (pizzerias and restaurants together) there is no reliable data on the number of pizzerias. According to old statistics from the German Statistics Institute (equivalent to Istat in Italy, just to be clear), in 2010 there were 21000 Italians who owned a catering business, but without specifying the type. I'd say there are at least 20,000 pizzerias in Germany.
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Q
“Based on your experience, what kind of pizza do German customers like? Neapolitan style, or more crispy and with lots of toppings?” Classic pizzas like the Margherita. Those with mushrooms and ham are also very popular, as well as salami ones. Those with lots of toppings are also popular (for example, arugula, parmesan and prosciutto). I'd say the crispy type is the most common pizza.
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"That of pizza maker was for many years the most common career for our fellow citizens who emigrated to Germany. Is this still the case or are there also German pizza makers or from other backgrounds?” This is a sore spot for Italian restaurateurs in Germany who complain about the many foreigners who buy restaurants and leave their original names with the aim of attracting customers, thus posing as Italians. German restaurateurs do not pretend to be Italian, they are very professional and want to offer quality Italian dishes. The phenomenon is widespread. Then there are the German chains that offer Italian cuisine (including pizza) spread throughout Germany: “L'osteria”, “Va piano”, “Tialini”; the level is average-passable and they often employ Italian cooks and pizza makers.
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Neapolitan Pastiera A traditional Easter cake craved all year roun
by Giampiero Rorato
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Vesuviella, a sweet declination of traditional neapolitan pastiera (by Cuori di Sfogliatella - Neaples)
hen writing about Neapolitan Pastiera, one should not make the serious mistake of equating it to a tart. True Neapolitans, and those who really know this dessert, would be up in arms, and rightly so. To begin with, Pastiera is a Campanian dessert typical of Easter and it is certified as a traditional agricultural and food product from Campania. Its history is lost in folklore, meaning that the origin of this dessert is very ancient and probably comes from a previous, simpler dessert, as they used to be in Roman times. Lovers of old tales say that it was the mermaid Parthenope who taught this dessert to the ancient inhabitants of Naples, who in those distant times called their city Parthènope (Παρθενόπη in ancient Greek). This is to say that it is a dessert that predates Christianity, prepared as an offer to the goddess. Others consider it a dessert prepared in honour of Ceres, the goddess of the harvest, offered to her as a request for protection for the crops. According to others, this dessert was adopted by Christians when in the fourth century AC they were allowed to publicly celebrate the rites of their religion; then, “Pastiera” became the typical dessert of the significant religious holiday of Easter, which celebrates the resurrection of Christ from the dead. But the stories and legends about pastiera are innumerable.legate alla pastiera sono davvero numerose.
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the original neapolitan Pastiera
Neapolitan Pastiera today Over time Pastiera has evolved, and experts distinguish "the" authentic Pastiera from adaptations based on taste and availability of ingredients: the “other� Pastiere. The first, the one considered to be the original, is very specific about its ingredients, and purists say that the pastry should be prepared with lard and wheat that's been soaked and cooked at home, as it used to be done in the past. On the other hand, due to the many changes that have occurred over time, some people use crema pasticcera (Italian pastry cream), blitzed wheat and butter in the mix; according to purists, these changes turn Pastiera into just another tart. The differences in opinion are understandable in an era of fast-changing taste, products and trends, but one should try as much as possible to follow the instructions of the purists and the original recipe; this was perfected in the convents, and the one from the sisters of the convent of San Gregorio Armeno became famous as the real Neapolitan Pastiera.
Cuori di sfogliatella
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The recipe Among the most popular recipes we love the one by "Nonna Elisa", published in Cook (supplement of Corriere della Sera) of 17 April, p. 25. While she suggested it for the Easter celebrations on April 21 last year, it is appropriate for future Easter celebrations, too; so keep this recipe, because it will come in handy. But pastiera is so good that you can make it today or any time you want.
Pastiera "Cheesecake style" by Cuori di Sfogliatella
Ingredients for a Pastiera for 6 people: For the pastry: 300 g 00 flour W170; 150 g sugar; 150 g lard; 3 egg yolks. Wheat: 300 g cooked wheat (if you can, you should cook it at home), 3 dl milk, salt, sugar, 1 lemon, cinnamon, butter. Filling: 500 g of sheep ricotta, 350 g of sugar, 6 yolks, 1 pinch of cinnamon; 1 lemon; 2 tablespoons of orange blossom water; 200 g of mixed candied peel; 4 whipped egg whites.
Preparation: make the pastry as you normally would, and put it in the fridge for 30 minutes. In the meantime, bring the milk to a boil, add the wheat, a pinch of salt and one of cinnamon, 1 tablespoon of sugar, the lemon peel and a knob of butter. Cook over low heat until all the liquid is absorbed. Then, take out the lemon peels and put the wheat on a plate to cool.
In a large bowl, put the sifted ricotta and stir it well with sugar until well combined. Add one yolk at a time, the lemon peel, the other ingredients and the cooled creamed wheat. Finally, add the whipped egg whites, folding them in from the bottom up. Divide the pastry by leaving a third aside and spread the remaining two thirds into a 4-millimetre thick layer to cover a baking sheet of 26 cm in diameter, greased with lard. Pour the filling in and then use the remaining pastry to make 7 strips arranged in a criss-cross pattern on the top of the Pastiera. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 170°C for 1h 15' (75 minutes) until the Pastiera is firm and dry. The preparation of this dessert takes about 2 hours total; don't forget that you can't hurry when cooking.
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wine in pizzeria by Virgilio Pronzati
W hen it comes to wine, many things have changed for the better in the last thirty years for pizzerias. In the 1980s, the wine served in pizzerias was mostly white or rosé table wine depending on the region, often served in bulk by the quarter-litre or half-litre, and produced by local farmers. At the same time, beer dominated the cities. It was pale and with plenty of foam, packed
in 33 cl bottles. The little wine available was of little or barely passable quality. Coke was also very popular. On the other hand, pizza was of average to good quality. In the early '90s, the most popular wine served in pizzerias was “mosso”, or sparkling, as well as some brands of sparkling wine made with the Charmat method.
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These average-quality wines were taken from fake barrels and served fresh in jugs. In the second half of the decade, the choice of available wines improved. Alongside dry and sparkling whites were rosÊs and some dry reds, such as Lambrusco DOC and IGT. The latter would accompany various types of pizzas topped with raw or cooked salami, ham and cheeses. More numerous and refined wine choices were available in pizza-restaurants. As they offered a list of wines chosen to match the dishes, they had one for pizzas, too. The breakthrough occurred in the 2000s. Pizzeria managers started to buy expensive bottles of wine. The reasons were to enhance or give value to the pizza and the establishment, and customers' growing knowledge of wine. Hence, wine lists became mandatory, and interesting pizza options appeared in a complete menu – that is, as appetizer, main, second course, and dessert. In recent years our pizza makers have achieved international goals.
Prestigious awards in competitions and pizzas of great quality, made with sourdough starter and Italian delicacies. Besides classic pizzas, there is a wide choice of others, some outside the canon or creative-experimental, but with excellent bases. Many restaurants today even have a sommelier! When not available, they are replaced by a professional waiter with good knowledge of wines and pairing techniques. Quality bottles are listed in correct wine lists alongside great classic sparkling wines and Champagne, served in crystal glasses for each type of wine. This is a kind of Starred type of pizzeria that enhances the whole sector while distancing itself from their recent past for service and available options.
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SAVE THE DATE!
The best food and manufacturing exhibitons all over the world, Pizza e Pasta Italiana will be here!
18—22 january 2020, Rimini Expo Centre, Italy, SIGEP 41st International Trade Show of Artisan ice cream, Pastry, Bakery and the Coffee World. Five thematic routes, one for each business sector, interconnecting and integrating in a single, unifying
vision of excellence. SIGEP represents and rewards world-class excellence. It introduces new formats, enhances global networking and supports businesses and professionals as they grow and expand.
26—28 january 2020, Marseille, France, FOOD IN SUD The trade show for food service and hospitality in the Mediterranean area. Food’in Sud has succeeded in bringing together, in two editions, the main players in the market around a dynamic trade show concept. The show demonstrated
that the Southern and Mediterranean zone needed an appointment that was a real tool for suppliers and that met the expectations of the suppliers, buyers and users in search of business and solutions. (World Pizza Tour, France selections 2020)
16—20 february 2020, Dubai (UAE), GULFOOD The global food industry’s quintessential meeting point, Gulfood is a buzzing, jam-packed affair welcoming over 100,000 visitors from 200 countries every year. From fascinating new flavours to industryshifting innovations and multi-million dollar export deals, Gulfood is the place to experience all the key moments driving
the F&B industry forward and to see all the mega-trends come alive, like never before. The event will celebrate its 25th edition in 2020 under the theme of ‘Rethinking Food’ giving you and all our international visitors the chance to question, taste, talk and engage with all that’s breaking new ground in the evolving food industry.
13—17 march 2020, Hamburg, Germany, INTERNORGA Decision makers from all around the world will meet in the pulsating metropolis of Hamburg between 13 and 17 March 2020 – the five most important days of the year – at INTERNORGA. Movers and shakers, brands and companies will
showcase themselves to almost 100,000 visitors in a unique atmosphere. Over the next few years, their ideas, products and processes will shape the sectors in which they operate. (World Pizza Tour, German Selections 2020)
31 march—2 april, Las Vegas (USA) INTERNATIONAL PIZZA EXPO The Largest Pizza Show in the USA. Pizza competitions, workshop and the best pizza companies from all over the world.
The International Pizza Expo is the most important show for USA and north American pizza market.
29 march—1 april, Shanghai, China, HOTELEX HOTELEX is a series of leading hospitality equipment, supplies and fine food trade fairs in China and will be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Center
(SNIEC). Food equipments, beverages, catering, tableware, Hotelex is the leader exhibition for Hotel and Catering services. (World Pizza tour, China Selection 2020)
29—31 march, Paris, France PARIZZA Parizza is the reference show for Italian restaurants in Paris. Covering all the trades of Italian catering (food products, beverages, packaging,
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equipment, services, technology, etc.), Parizza welcomes every year the professionals of the sector thanks to its quality exhibitors, its emblematic event, and its innovations.
19—22 april, Verona, Italy, VINITALY Vinitaly has supported wine industry producers since 1967, making an active contribution to the growth of the wine system by creating business opportunities in Italy and around the world, as well as promoting occasions for networking
between wine-makers and sector professionals. Vinitaly promotes wine culture 365 days a year through qualified training courses, valorises companies that invest in quality and exploits digital tools to help close distances between continents.
11—14 may, Parma, Italy, CIBUS Organized by Fiere di Parma, in the heart of the Food Valley, Cibus represents a unique opportunity for the industry professionals to discover the best of the authentic italian food, to meet over 3,000 Made in Italy food producers, to attend conferences and
workshops and to learn about the latest innovations in the Cibus Innovation Corner area. Cibus is the most important meeting platform for the entire agri-food community where buyers, producers and trade associations can create business opportunities.
16—19 june, San Paolo, Brasil, FISPAL Trends and news for the outside home food industry were some of the main factors that attracted a visiting audience of 57,000 people at Fispal Food Service 35th edition, the largest
fair for this industry in Latin America. The event, which took place between June 11 and 14 at Expo Center Norte (SP), counted with 470 exhibitors representing 1,800 brands.
7—10 september, Melbourne, Australia FINE FOOD AUSTRALIA Fine Food is the heartbeat of the food trade industry. Unrivaled by any other Australian show, this is the foodie-mecca with over 1,000+ exhibitors and thousands
more products, the latest trends and the industry's best. For 36 years, Fine Food has been the most trustworthy food industry event with results independently verified.
18—22 october, Paris, France, SIAL Five days for the biggest world showcase for Planet Food, with the players and inventors in food; from producers to distributors, through restaurateurs to
ingredients providers. The last exhibition had more than 310.000 professionals from all over the world. Sial is the biggest exhibition for food in Europe.
19—22 october, Moscow, Russia, PIR EXPO Pir is the main exhibition and broad educational program of the restaurant industry. All the market players - restaurant owners and managers, chefs and bakers, the best Russian and international experts, as well as manufacturers and suppliers of
goods and services for restaurants. Here they all come together and form trends, establish business contacts, present novelties and innovations, share knowledge and insider secrets, and choose franchise. (Pizza World Tour, Russian selections 2021)
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The evolution of beer in Italy. by Alfonso Del Forno
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Italy is one of the nations with the lowest beer consumption per capita, about 32 litres per year. Compared to countries like the Czech Republic, with more than 150 litres per year, it is evident how little beer belongs to the gastronomic culture of our country. The reasons for this can certainly be traced to our tradition, which is bound to wine. After the meteoric ascent of Saint Joseph Brewery in Sorrento, established in the mid-'80s by Peppiniello Esposito, a revolution occurred between 1995 and 1996, when the first microbreweries were born. Of these, five are still active and are considered the pioneers of Italian craft beer: Baladin, Beba, Birrificio Italiano, Lambrate and Turbacci.
Baladin brewery was established in Piozzo, in the province of Cuneo, by Teo Musso. The great passion for beer, despite his family having always been in the wine business, pushed Teo to create a brand that has been considered the ambassador of Italian craft beer in the world from the beginning. Beba brewery was born in the province of Turin, in Villar Perosa. Even today this brewery uses the brew house and cellar from 1996, demonstrating that even before technology, what matters is the brewer's talent in designing and making excellent beers. Moving to Lombardy, to Lurago Marinone (Co), we find one of the legends of Italian beer, Birrificio Italiano, born from the passion and inspiration of Agostino Arioli, who was the trailblazer in Italian low fermentation beers.
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T H E BE E R
Also in Lombardy, the Lambrate district of Milan saw the emergence of the eponymous brewery attached to the pub of Via Adelchi, which over the years has become a place of pilgrimage for beer lovers. Despite the many expansions within the building that housed the brewery, the great success of Lambrate beers forced the partners to build a new brewery not far from the historic headquarters, where they could finally significantly increase production volumes. Moving down to central Italy, we get to Mentana, a city just over twenty kilometres from Rome, where the Turbacci brewery was established. The plant, built to serve the Turbacci family pub, has a special license: for the first fifteen years, it can produce and sell beer only within the pub, and is forbidden from bottling and selling it outside. With these first five pioneers a movement was born that over the years has grown more and more, creating the basis for the development of an increasingly solid and organised supply chain. The Unionbirrai Cultural Association was founded in 1999 by the first Italian microbreweries wanting to join forces as a group.
This organisation, created to support the activities of craft breweries and to promote beer culture, organises many activities involving professionals and enthusiasts across the country. With the new millennium, there has been a significant expansion in the number of breweries, which have mushroomed across the country, sparing no region. In July 2016, the Italian parliament approved the law that defined the term “craft beer� for the first time, with four parameters needing to be met to use this wording on the label: the absence of microfiltration and pasteurization, economic independence from other breweries, and an annual production below 200,000 hl. Meanwhile, the growth of the Italian beer movement continues, to the point that at the end of 2017, 21 years after it began, there are about 1000 brands, of which 700 breweries and 300 beer firms. These numbers require a different outlook on the world of craft beer in Italy, prompting Unionbirrai to change structure to better support producers. In fact, in April 2017, at their Bologna assembly, Unionbirrai members approved the new statute to transform from a cultural association into
a trade association. The last piece of the puzzle of Italian beer was added in recent weeks, when Unionbirrai launched the "Independent Craft, a Unionbirrai guarantee" mark, a logo that will appear on labels and on communication from real independent craft breweries. The Italian beer movement, despite its young age, is the one setting the standard for the protection of small-scale producers and is held in high regard by other European countries. This emerged at the last meeting of the EBCU (European Beer Consumers Union) in Kastrup in Denmark, where Simone Monetti, Unionbirrai's CEO, was elected to the managing committee. Looking forward to the exciting future of Italian craft beer, I drink to the quality of our products, now leaders in the world. Cheers!
Illustrations by Antonella Manenti
the eating out experience sh ow
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TECHNICAL SPONSORS
n° it11/0050
S 
cuola Italiana Pizzaioli was born in the late 80s. Since the beginning the school was focused on teaching one of the most beautiful artisanal jobs, combining a technical and scientific approach with the continue research of the most modern technologies and the passion for working with the dough. Our story starts in Caorle, in the municipality of Venice, where the national headquarter can still be found at present. Starting from there, we trained thousands of pizza makers in our Italian venues and in several foreign countries: Brasil, China, Poland, Russia, France, Belgium, Australia, Argentina. And this is not it!
CONTACTS Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) ph. 0039 (0)421 83 148 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
Do you want to be our partner? join the school! We are spreading the culture of italian cuisine worldwide and for doing that we forge collaborations with local entrepreneurs who share our passion for pizza. In fact, pizza business in the world is constantly growing and is estimated to be about $ 138 billions at the present day. Pizza lovers are every day more and more and professional pizza makers are strongly required by the job market. This is particularly true for the Italian classic pizza that is living a golden age with fast growing rate thanks to the perceived quality of the artesanal recipe and of love of the ingredients. In order to answer to this extraordinary and fast-growing pizza consumption, many entrepreneurs asked us for advising and teaching. Starting from that, we built many long lasting business relationships all around the world. This is also why 2019 was an extraordinary year for Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, that trained more than 300 students in our foreign offices abroad. The school always turns as a great experience both for students and for partners.
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Who are we looking for?
How does it work?
We are looking for entrepreneurs working in the Food&Beverage sector who look at the school as a great business opportunity in order to generate new business ventures. We can help them to open a Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli office in their country! The school creates networks and it is the best place for facing the market, testing products and gaining loyal customers. Creating synergies, the school helps the other business branches to improve effectiveness. In case the territory is wide, you can replicate the Italian school organization spreading your instructors network all over the country.
Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli starts its activities in Caorle (Venice) in the late ‘80 s. Since the beginning, our goal was to build a network of experts able to develop and spread our scientific approach of making pizza. So we did it, first in Italy (where during the last 30 years we have selected a group of top pizza chefs and opened several offices of the school), then abroad (Russia, Poland, Germany, France, Brazil, Argentina, Australia, China) always using the same business model. We transfer school know-how through the Franchising Agreement, which is the best and the indispensable way for successfully teaching our method.
VISIT
www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
Each school is held by an instructor pizza chef reffered as “Master Istruttore”. Only few pizza makers trained during a specific course held at the italian national head office of the school will be promoted as “Master Istruttore with Percorso Formativo Certificato (Certified Training Program)”, guarantee of quality standards and professionalism of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. With the Entrance Fee, partners of the school gains the exclusive right of using the trademark of “Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli” and to teach our techniques into the assigned territory. Once they have properly arranged the school and obtained the qualification of Master Instructor for the selected area, they can immediately start giving lessons and easily reimbourse the fee with the first course! Furthermore, we follow the developing process of the new foreign school providing it with a brandnew website, raw materials, school materials, student sets and, most of all, know-how gained in almost 30 years of experience on the field. No more investment is needed if you already have places for holding lessons.
re in the pictu pizzirri, nani, Leo S Tony Gemig ertuzzo and Graziano B ccia Michele Cro
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2020 TECHNICAL PARTNERS
certificato n. it11/0050
Progettazione ed erogazione corsi di formazione per pizzaioli
THE PASSION FOR PIZZA The passion for making a good pizza and being able to transmit it to others is the ground for the school’s work, which pushes to experiment, to know, to learn and to spread out what we know to all those who wish to learn the profession of pizza maker. Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli was among the first school to develop three different types of course - basic, specialization and advanced courses - along side with the practical part there is also theory, a serious and professional approach to a job that for its complexity needs study, application and passion. Our lessons enable the future pizza-maker not only to make dough mixes on the bas-
SPECIALIZATION COURSES —
Specialization courses are dedicated to professionals who wish to develop processing techniques for the production, preparation, filling and baking of particular types of pizza. Those courses take place over one or two days.
es of the recipes given during the courses, but also to gain a knowledge of the different results that can be obtained on the basis of wished variations (for example the choice of different flour) or less (unexpected things that can happen every day, for example the weather change); situations that can happen during professional life. You can find us also in the most known food sector exhibitions both in Italy and abroad, because we strongly believe that meeting other cultures, especially whether in front of good food) makes us grow faster and makes us better. Passion, professional work, experience. That is what we trust.
NEAPOLITAN PIZZA —
Neaples is the city where everything began. Scuola italiana Pizzaioli could not be lacking of a specific course about the very traditional way for pizza preparation. The course of Neapolitan Pizza guides the student through the learning path for obtaining the traditional pizza with the lovely “cornicione” (the crust) typical of Naples. Ac-
tually, several features distinguish the classical round pizza from the neapolitan recipe, from the use of dedicated flours to the choice of D.O.P. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, that is to say protected designation origin) topping ingredients. Moreover, proper working and gestural methods (as “the slapping”) and strict baking rules make the
neapolitan pizza a specific and precise scienze. The original Neapolitan Pizza is an S.T.G. product (Specialità Tradizionale Garantita). It means that pizza has been prepared in full compliance with the procedural guidelines (registered by European Union in 2009) for getting the qualification of “traditional guaranteed speciality”.
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ADVANCED COURSES
BASIC COURSE —
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CLASSIC PIZZA The basic course is reserved for those who wish to learn the job of pizza maker, professionals and owners of restaurants, who want to learn and deepen the theoretical concepts and practical experience required to operate with success in the business of pizza. The course alternates hours devoted to theory, necessary for deeply understanding why you get certain results rather than others, with hours devoted to manual and gestural practice. The path will lead the student toward several steps in order to fully prepare them to the job. Among others, we focus the course on the choice of different types of cereals, flour (and how to choose
PIZZA IN PALA —
The “Pizza in Pala” (pala is the long wood board needed for bake it), also known as the “Pizza alla Romana”, is a typical product of roman bakeries, thin and crunchy. The mix is a very hydrated dough; apparently simple, but with lots of secrets to take in consideration that can dramatically influence the quality, aesthetics and taste personality of the final product.
among them the best ingredients to catch your goals), the yeast, leavening techniques, the ingredients, the topping and much more. Obviously, we teach how to make, portionate and save the dough; how to spread dough balls, fill them and cook a real pizza! We dedicate several sessions teaching how to use professional tools as ovens, mixers, shock freezers. The intensive course takes place over five days, from Monday to Friday, for 40 hours in total. This includes 10 hours of theory and 30 hours of practice.
PIZZA IN TEGLIA —
The “Pizza in Teglia” (pan pizza) is thick and soft. This pizza has a secret which is what allows to get a good growth in height maintaining, however, lightness. The perfect combination of these perspectives makes the difference between a dramatic success and an epic fail.
GLUTEN FREE —
In this course we teach how to organize the work plan and what procedures adopt to serve the celiac customer and safely obtain a dough with excellent performance and fragrant as the traditional pizza. We study different gluten free mixes and technical solutions for getting a uniform and easyto-work dough mix.
Advanced Courses are reserved to expert pizza makers, restaurateurs and food industry professionals who want to expand their knowledge in food, nutrition and management, gaining new skills and learning best technical practices. Advanced courses are designed to study every perspective of “pizza” as business concept. That is to say that Advanced Course program deals with both technical in-depht analysis (haute cuisine for topping preparation, nutritiononal science, food technology, bread-macking techniques) and management seminars (Food Cost Analysis, Profit and Loss Analysis, Food Social Media Marketing). For this reason, Advanced Courses are held by external teachers, top specialists in their own scientific or technical field.
SOURDOUGH —
Starting from what we call “la madre” we will explain the techniques of refreshing, conservation and how to use the sourdough in your pizza mix in the best way.
VISIT
izzaioli.it
aitalianap
www.scuol
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pizza e pasta italiana international
2020
CONTACTS Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) ph. 0039 (0)421 83 148 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it certificato n. it11/0050
Progettazione ed erogazione corsi di formazione per pizzaioli
Belgium Charleroi
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Poland Poznan
Paris, Chamonix
Russia Moscow
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Beijing, Jinan, Shanghai
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GRAZIANO
B E R T U Z ZO
quarter Main Head ) 421-83.148 info 0039 (0 — VENICE
(CAORLE)
30 Master Instructor
Melbourne, Perth, Margareth River
laNapoletana: a genuine flour, the perfect flour to make pizza like a real Neapolitan pizza chef! Try it for a perfectly developed thick and golden crust and a soft, elastic and pliable dough. Choose it to enhance the flavour of your ingredients: tomatoes, mozzarella, olive oil.