TRADITION & FUTURE
Since 1932 - Specialty foods producers
MENÙ S.R.L. Registered Office/Plant: Via Statale 12 n°102 • 41036 Medolla (Mo) • Italy • Offices: Via Concordia n°25 • 41032 Cavezzo (Mo) • Italy Phone: +39 0535 49711 • Fax: +39 0535 46899 • www.menu.it • menu@menu.it Menù srl
Menù srl
twitter.com/MenuSrl
Menù srl
4
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Advertiser Index p. 81
CAD Caputo
p. 54 -55
Castelli
p. 71
Cerutti Inox
p. 57
—table of contents—
Consorzio Tutela Parmigiano Reggiano DOP p. 101 p. 38 - 39
Cuppone f.lli
p. 45
Dell'Oro
p. 2
F.lli Beretta Familia
p. 87
Gam Int.
p. 77
Gi Metal
p. 43
Greci Ind. Alimentari
p. 132
Host 2019
p. 107
Hotelex
p. 124
6 EDITORIAL
by Giampiero Rorato
8 WHO WE ARE by editorial staff
Ind. Molitoria Denti
p. 33
— The Pizza World Championship 2019
Ind. Molitoria Perteghella
p. 29
by editorial staff
p. 65
Ind. Alimentare Tanagrina
p. 125
Internorga Italmill
p. 58 - 59 ; 62 - 63
La Torrente Le 5 Stagioni - Molino Agugiaro e Figna Lilly Codroipo
p. 106 p. 16 - 17 p. 25
Linea Dori
p. 116
MAM Eredi Malaguti
p. 123
Marra forni Menù Molino Bertolo Molino Dallagiovanna
p. 88 - 89 p. 3 p. 48 - 49 p. 121
Molino Magri
p. 37
Molino Naldoni
p. 41
Molino Pasini
p. 115
Molino Piantoni
p. 75
Mozzarisella - Frescolat
p. 83
New York Water Maker
p. 91
Novafunghi
p. 35
OEM - Ali Group
p. 131
Piazza
p. 105
Redoro
p. 95
Refrattari Regello - Valoriani
p. 21
Rispo
p. 31
Sanfelici
p. 113
Sirman
p. 117
SITTA
p. 27
Smoki
p. 67
Stefano Ferrara Forni Tecnodom Velma
p. 7 p. 110 - 111 p. 97
12
18
The careful search for raw ingredients
— Tomato’s extraordinary history 50
by Giampiero Rorato
60 —
Mozzarella and fior di latte: a comparison by Marisa Cammarano 68 —
To make pizza you need flour, to make flour you need wheat by editorial staff
74
by Giampiero Rorato
26 Declinations of Pizza by editorial staff
Basil: uses and applications by Virgilio Pronzati
table of contents
78 Free from: when intolerances and allergies enter the kitchen by Caterina Vianello
82
98
84
— Pizza and beer: a perfect combination by Alfonso Del Forno
All about food pairing by Caterina Orlandi
90
102 —
Limoncello, a campanian jewel
by Caterina Vianello
108 —In
Naples, gold is black: let's talk about coffee
by Marisa Cammarano
118 —
Federico De Silvestri’s gluten free Pizza
Italian ice cream, between tradition and innovation
by editorial staff
by editorial staff
Massimo Bottura and Osteria Francescana by editorial staff
126 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI
5
6
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
— Editorial —
Italian science and technology: Blazing the trail in food production by Giampiero Rorato
O
n the 26th of November, NASA's Insight probe successfully landed on Mars, thanks to Italian technology; in 2020, a rover with an Italian heart and an Italian brain will roam the sands of the red planet, and a robotic drill, also Italian, will explore a couple of metres underground in search of traces of past or present life. The scientific world knows that Italy, thanks to its researchers and laboratories of the highest international standards, has been contributing to progress in the fields of knowledge and operation to the benefit of the whole of humanity. The Italian space economy heavyweights demonstrate the levels reached by Italy in the sectors of scientific
research and technological production, which is not only space-related, but extends to the most diverse fields, including agriculture, gastronomy, and viticulture. While there are countries whose agricultural production is overall higher than Italy, it is also true that Italy has always privileged high quality and niche products, such as ancient grains, heirloom tomatoes, sustainable grape varieties, extra virgin olive oil of the highest quality, and extraordinary cheeses, starting with ParmigianoReggiano. And this applies also to cattle, sheep, goat, and pig farming; this leads to meat that is organic, uncontaminated by chemical products, and therefore healthy and
especially flavoursome. This is how Italy presents to the world, proud of its agricultural production, its food and its wine industry. In fact, Italy is, after France, the country with the most Michelin stars, and middle- to high-level restaurants can be found everywhere in the Peninsula. The industries that produce facilities and equipment for hotels, restaurants, pizzerias, craft breweries, wineries, wine bars and the lodging industry are generally considered leaders in the world, because they know to combine aesthetics with functionality and efficiency, making these establishments welcoming and pleasant for the public. They're not just functional, since they contribute to the
high quality of the finished products and help build a sociable ambiance, much sought after in these trying times. This year, too, our magazine explores some of these extraordinary aspects, sending the world a message of optimism. The Italian production sector, thanks to continuous research, the contributions of science, and technology developments guarantees the best that tourism an hospitality operators, restaurateurs and families are looking for. They are aware that health, peace and a good life depend largely on a healthy diet, and they know that in this field Italy continues to be a trailblazer, as demonstrated by the fact that, under this aspect, Italy is trusted the world over.
www.giampierororato.blogspot.com
PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 Year XXX - January, 2019 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi, Patrizio Carrer ADVERTISING Patrizio Carrer, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 - Fax +39 0421 81007 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it
GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo and Paola Dus — mediagraflab.it DIGITAL PUBLISHING Maura Trolese
ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS
COVER ILLUSTRATED BY Laura Pittaccio PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Virgilio Pronzati, Giuseppe Dell’Aquila, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), David Mandolin, Gianandrea Rorato, Gianluca Rorato, Federica Zanata, Caterina Vianello, Laura Nascimben, Fabio Iacozzilli. PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA INTERNATIONAL Pete La Chapelle (N.A.P.O. - Pizza Today, U.S.A.), P.M.Q. Steve Green (U.S.A.) Drew McCarthy (Canadian Pizza Magazine, Canada), Valeria Vairo (Buongiorno Italia).
FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana SPAGNA RRR Revista de Restauración Rapida, Pizza y Restauración U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green GERMANIA Buongiorno Italia – TEL +39 0421 83148 FAX +39 0421 81007
Neapolitan handmade brick ovens Quality and Neapolitan tradition
www.stefanoferraraforni.it | info@stefanoferraraforni.it | +39 081 876 1664 Via F. Coppi 3/B - 80010 Quarto, Naples (Italy)
8
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Who we are P 
izza e Pasta Italiana has been for
30 years the world
leading magazine in food
and pizza sector.
This is the 8th edition of our renown
A brief journey through raw materials,
magazine, Pizza e Pasta Italiana in
baking techniques, recipes, great food
English for the international markets
personalities, who are making history
for all those people who are involved
in our gastronomy of excellence.
in the high end pizza products.
Illustration by Laura Pittaccio Pizza e Pasta Italiana — January 2019
9
T 
he editor of this magazine, Pizza New Spa, was among the first one to believe in the branch of pizza, which with time from a poor food, spread above all around Italy, became a nutritionally complete food, made by first order professionals. Pizza e Pasta Italiana could only have been an Italian product! Italy is historically the world food cradle and the land of pizza from the earliest times. We as Italians, proudly promote our knowledge and our excellent products casted in an international environment. Pizza is a democratic and convivial food, apparently simple but highly complex. It is very difficult to make and bake a good pizza, and this is why through this pizza we strive to offer our many readers around the world, a panoramic as complete as possible, rich in techniques, recipes, tricks, reportages, technologies, and news which accompany this dynamic sector. In Pizza e Pasta Italiana, you will nevertheless find the more classic catering, because we believe that education both of chefs and pizzaioli has to be at 360°, and because we strive that every professional category is able to find hints, crossings and common ground with the work of others. The editor of this magazine, that in Italy is released every month and that you can find in English for free as an application on
Apple Store, is not only strictly the sheer editor, but it is also the organizer of the world most known pizza event, the Pizza World Championship. This event is held every year in Italy for 28 years, and represents the world meeting point for all pizza lovers around the world. During three days of show, operators, pizza chefs and entrepreneurs can meet each other, and confront each other on a common ground. The 2019 edition will be held in Parma, in the heart of the Italian food valley, from April 9 to 11. Let’s complete the conspectus of our activities saying that our passion for pizza and professional catering is completed by the work of the International School of
Pizza, private professional school born in late 80s in Italy. The school teaches newbies and professionals new methods and techniques. You will find more detailed information on our schools and education activities. We wish you a joyful reading, and we invite you to follow us on the different editorial channels: www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.worldpizzachampionship.it and the Italian and English digital application is available on Apple Store.
I P Z ZA
AT THE SAME TIME OF CIBUS CONNECT
WORLD PIZZA CHAMPIONSHIP
APRIL 2019 PALACASSA, PARMA ITALY
mediagraflab.it
th
EDITION
763 COMPETITORS
41
NATIONS
1063 COMPETITIONS
WWW.WO R LD P I Z ZACH A M P I O N SH I P. I T
12
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
WORLD PIZZA CHAMPIONSHIP Value and Meaning of an extraordinary event by Giampiero Rorato
The most important world level event for the world of the pizza, conceived, promoted and organized by this Magazine and by its ownership, will reach its 28th edition in the upcoming month of April. In its background, there is therefore a long, solid and nonstop tradition that every year has seen gathered as pizzaioli of every part of the world and, together with them, entrepreneurs of equipment and producers of raw material for pizzerias. Its first edition took place in 1990 in Castrocaro Terme, later on in Viareggio to finally move to Salsomaggiore Terme, all places enhanced at a world level by this event. The event, also wanted by many Italian cities for the enormous turnover it generates, for four years now it is held in Parma, European capital of food and wine, in the prestigious building of Palacassa, next to the Convention Center.
www.pizzaworldchampionship.it
13
THE KNOWLEDGE
T 
his event, unique at international level, has also been designed for a series of reasons. Above all, pizza-bakers, who before were alone in their work, thanks to this magazine and to the World Pizza Championship have finally gained the chance to be introduced in an international network, where they can meet each other, exchange information, evaluate operating techniques, and extraordinary friendships were born, which bound pizzaioli form every continent.
photo by Alberto Rossi
Therefore, this year, it will take place from 9 to 11 of April, with the attendance of many pizzaioli from all around Europe, from America, from North Africa, Asia and Australia. Last edition saw professionals from 41 nations: pizza is worldwide!
The human aspect has gained and continues to gain a prominent importance and next to it, it has developed a new and modern culture of pizza that has allowed the many hundreds of pizza-makers registered to the event, and every year this some new, to have precious confrontations, deepen the knowledge of products and to learn more about new products and techniques on yeasts, dough mixes, fermentation and toppings. This all represents the cultural and professional soul of the Pizza World Championship and thousands of pizza bakers who during the previews 27 years have taken part, and went home with a rich expertise that helped them to grow a lot.
14
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
For any further information, don’t hesitate to contact: info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it
THE EVENT The most prominent aspect of the Pizza World Championship is represented by the different pizza events thought to enhance and improve at best vocations and skills of participants and the list of the categories is enough to understand well the complexity of the event more in general. Pizza-bakers compete, in other words, to conquer the title of Pizza World Champion in the following categories: Classic Pizza, Pizza in the pan, Pizza on the peel, Neapolitan STG pizza, Gluten free pizza, Pizza for two (pizzaiolo and chef), Heinz Beck Trophy (for first dishes made by chefs working in a pizzeria), the largest, the fastest, Single Free style.
PIZZA WORLD TOUR Pizza World Championship is also the moment in which entrepreneurs, stakeholders, buyers and product development managers of international pizza chains meet to look after the latest trends about pizza.
During the three-days competition there are 12 specialities and around 800 competitors are admitted, selected through other competition organized in the most important exhibitions around the world. This process of internationalisation has become necessary because of the increasing value and success of Pizza World Championship among all the pizza-bakers who want to compete with the best Italian artisans. For the 2019 edition, the preselection rounds have started in the Fall of 2018, in Spain, Australia and Russia; then it will be the turn of Germany, China, Brazil and many more nations where pizza represents Italy.
THE MEANING As you can clearly understand, pizzabakers who gain the podium during the great gala evening with the title of Pizza World Championship lure the interest of the media, press, tv both national and local, thus obtaining fame which translates into business success.
Until this moment, it has always been like this, and in the previews 27 editions also pizzaioli before unknown, confined in secluded areas, thanks to the winning and to the title of Pizza World Championship have obtained and continue to obtain those satisfactions and that economic success that continues to prolong along time.
These are all the many reasons for which the Pizza World Championship obtains a great success among pizza-bakers of the whole world, moves broadcasting stations and the press, attracting many food personalities, important journalists, famous artists and qualified equipment and food entrepreneurs who present the latest products to the launched on the market.
15
All the numbers of the
Pizza World Championship 11 19
is the number of pizza competitions across three days: classic pizza, pan pizza, TSG Neapolitan pizza, pizza on the peel, gluten-free pizza, pizza cooked by a pizza maker and a chef, Heinz Beck Trophy...first courses at the pizzeria, individual freestyle, the fastest pizza maker, the largest pizza, and world pizza team. In addition, there will be special prizes such as Best Wine Pairing for the Heinz Beck Trophy, the Triathlon and the Parmigiano Reggiano special prize.
is the number of workstations, all equipped for kneading, rolling, and topping pizza, and a cooking station for the “First courses at the pizzeria� competition.
29000
8
17000 square metres is the size of the exhibition space at the Palacassa of Parma, which will host the Pizza World Championship.
is the number of pizzas prepared, baked and submitted throughout the 27 years of the competition.
41
is the number of countries represented at the Pizza World Championship; the southernmost is Argentina, the northernmost is Norway. Beside Italy, the most represented countries are: the USA (with 36 overseas participants in the 2018 edition), France (45), Japan (13), Australia (6), and Argentina (5).
is the number of titles won by Stefano Miozzo (current Classic Pizza World Champion) in the 2017 and 2018 editions of the Pizza World Championship: 1st place in the Pizza on the Peel category, winner of the Parmigiano Reggiano Special Prize, winner of the Triathlon, and, finally, winner of the World Pizza Team 2017 Prize with Team Penelope. In 2018 he won the World Champion title in the Classic Pizza category, third place for Pizza cooked by a pizza maker and a chef, the Parmigiano Reggiano Special Prize, the Triathlon Prize and finally the success with Team Penelope for the team competition.
10
are the tomato varieties that Giorgio Sabbatini - Classic Pizza World Champion 2017 - used for his pizza: San Marzano, PGI Datterino, Piennolo, Datterino confit, Pachino confit, yellow Datterino, Piccadilly, Ramato, Marinda, and Perino. A veritable tribute to the tomato and its variations.
AGUGIARO&FIGNA MOLINI, BETWEEN TRADITION AND INNOVATION
Agugiaro & Figna Molini was born from the merging of two historic miller working families: nowadays it is the leader milling industry in Italy for the grinding of soft wheat and it is specialized in the production of very high quality flours and mixes. From the 15th century onwards the company has continued the tradition transmitted by the ancestors with unchanged dedication and knowledge and it has taken care of the milling art preserving the commitment in the research of the most precious grains. The careful blending and the accurate grinding of the precious grains that come from the best crops of the world (Australia, Canada, US and Europe) take place in three plants owned by the company: Parma, Padova and Perugia. The production process uses the most sophisticated technologies to guarantee the quality and the efficacy that only Agugiaro & Figna flours can offer. A special attention is paid to the sustainability of the grinding: a slow process to respect each grain variety (biodiversity) and the native quality of the grains. A slow and accurate work: in each grain there are components which are extremely different
AGUGIAROFIGNA.COM
and to which different attentions have to be devoted. For this reason, the Research and Development department is the heart of the company and is the lab responsible of the creation of new precious blends. Agugiaro & Figna flours are addressed to the professional bakers and to the high food service, to the master confectioners and to the expert pizza makers. Each client is unique. For this reason Agugiaro & Figna Molini created eight flours ranges: Le 5 Stagioni, Le Sinfonie, Molino Agugiaro, Molino Figna, Oro Fagioli, A&F – Alta Cucina&Farina, Naturkraft, e Mag 98, each of them has particular characteristics in order to respond to the specific needs that each dough requires. “We like to make the difference. This is why we choose not only the conventional wheat but also the 100% organic Italian wheat: excellence everywhere, also in the baby food supply chain and in gluten free proposal. Water and sun feed our wheat and give us the energy to transform it into flour. A respectful product born in a respectful environment: for this reason, we signed an ethical code for the workers
protection. A certified production process ensures the flour genuineness, the stability and the fulfilment of precise parameters of use. We choose communication and marketing activities with a strong social impact in order to sustain the artisan’s work and the promotion of good, clean and correct values”- Giorgio Agugiaro and Alberto Figna. On the occasion of the 19th edition of Cibus 2018, Agugiaro & Figna Molini became official partner of Slow Food Italia, the international no profit association which is involved in giving back the right value to the food around the world according to the values of good, clean and correct. The union between Agugiaro & Figna Molini and Slow Food Italia confirms that the excellence is always born from the knowledge of the working people and from the choice of high quality ingredients. This connection also confirms that the “made in Italy” can be expressed abroad with good taste, sustainability and harmony and affirms that, above all, all this together is better.
#EXPRESSYOURSELF SYDNEY, 08:00 PM Every pizza chef has a story to tell that is revealed through his recipes. This is why Le 5 Stagioni has developed a complete, versatile line of extremely high quality flours, which every maestro is free to interpret, expressing himself with passion and personality.
THE MOST COMPLETE RANGE OF FLOURS, SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCTS, AND SPECIALIZED LINES FOR PIZZERIAS. le5stagioni.it • curtarolo@agugiarofigna.com • +39 049 9624611
18
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
A conscious revolution in high-quality catering
The careful search for raw ingredients by Giampiero Rorato
19
From the farm...
U
ntil not long ago, the majority of the Italian catering sector would turn to wholesalers for their requirements, as the latter would be able to provide all or nearly all the raw ingredients for cooking: meat, cured meats, hams, sauces and concentrates of various kinds, oils of different types, spices, and so on. Often, what mattered most was not quality but cost, and people often chose good, but
cheap products. This was the general situation, with exceptions that luckily were not too few and far between. Every year, thousands of young cooks graduate from hospitality schools (even if most of them disappear); little by little, with this improved professional culture of cooks and restaurateurs -- and in line with customers' and restaurants' better food culture and knowledge of products -- a healthy revolution has taken place.
And so, the number of wholesalers has decreased in relation to restaurants, while in contrast there is a growing number of farms that specialise in the production of high-quality ingredients. There, more and more restaurateurs find pulses and vegetables, often grown without any chemicals; poultry, cured meats, seasonal fruit, etc. These businesses - exemplary farms inspired by organic principles - have become a standard for numerous restaurants and trattorias. They would have chosen the paddy field where they buy rice, a private or cooperative oil mill that processes only their own olives for their extra-virgin olive oil, a butchery that processes meats from certified Italian farms for their meat (including cured ones), and a trusted fisherman or supplier for their fish. If a restaurant chooses their raw ingredients this way, then you can be sure that they are serious about their food, and that it is healthy and safe.
20
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
... to the table This is the new trend of the Italian catering industry. Until the '70s, in Italy there were many more trattorias than restaurants (these are mostly found in hotels), which still offered a traditional style of cooking, albeit better presented. Then, thanks to the influence of Nouvelle Cuisine, popularised in Italy by Gualtiero Marchesi, the catering sector underwent its first revolution: less homely, much more refined dishes, aesthetically pleasing creations with new combinations (and some French-inspired attempts, which were not always successful). After Nouvelle Cuisine there was “fusion”
cuisine, then “molecular” cuisine, but raw ingredients were still sourced from wholesalers, and often the cheapest options were the preferred choice. Gualtiero Marchesi, who has been one of the most celebrated innovators in Italian cuisine since the 1970s, did not care too much for regional origin and seasonality as long as products were reliable and of good quality (although his dishes still showed extraordinary, amazing artistry); nevertheless, new ideas began to circulate and a growing number of restaurants started to choose well, even if that meant spending a bit more.
Two examples from history In the meantime, some extraordinary Italian cooks (cooks, not chefs, as pointed out by Fulvio Pierangelini, a great cook and manager) started following a different philosophy than Marchesi, preferring local, seasonal products, and choosing the best quality ones. Some examples are Angelo Paracucchi, who started working at the Locanda dell’Angelo in Ameglia in 1974, and Gianni Cosetti, who started at the Roma in Tolmezzo in
1969. Gianni Cosetti, for example, travelled the Carnia valleys looking for native herbs, cheeses from Alpine cottages and farm cured meats and hams; he revisited traditional recipes with extraordinary skill, creating a “new Carnian cuisine”, which was just the skilful modernisation of tradition. His fame attracted the most important food connoisseurs of the time to Tolmezzo, in the northernmost part of Italy.
Then, Angelo Paracucchi published his extraordinary recipes in “Cucina Creativa all'italiana” (Creative Italian Cooking; Sperling & Kupfer, 1986) and Gianni Cosetti presented them in his “Vecchia e Nuova Cucina di Carnia” (Old and New Carnian Cooking), a timeless work still published by Andrea Moro in Tolmezzo. These two figures initiated a very interesting movement that spurred the most significant revolution in the Italian catering industry; one that has been long embraced by the Santini family, at Dal Pescatore restaurant in Canneto sull’Oglio, and by Heinz Beck, the celebrated chef of “La Pergola” in Rome. The type of cooking inspired by Paracucchi and Cosetti and followed enthusiastically by many other Italian restaurants is the true, great Italian cuisine; the kind that appeals to food connoisseurs worldwide; a cuisine that selects directly its raw ingredients, is rooted in tradition, privileges local and seasonal products, and is presented with refined elegance in welcoming establishments that employ highly professional staff. This is how the great Italian catering industry is and should be, a goal that all good cooks and committed restaurateurs should strive to achieve.
Fornace dal 1890
22
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
The Beautiful, the Good, and the Healthy by Giampiero Rorato
23
ORGANIC FOOD PRODUCTS AT THE CORE OF THE DIET OF THE FUTURE
E
xperts’ recommendations (doctors, researchers, etc.) on the close relationship between diet and health, which are based on research and field studies, are not only true, but are so important that we should apply them to our daily diet, if we care about our wellbeing. A large number of illnesses that affect humanity are in fact due to an unbalanced, unhealthy diet, often contaminated by chemicals. Critical consumers firmly believe this and alternatives are being sought all over the world.
We all want to live well and long; to live a good life, without giving up our job; we all want to eat good food and enjoy the pleasures of dining as much as possible; we're all trying to stave off illnesses that can impact our life and, in many cases, shorten it. One of the accusations that experts move to our daily diet is that it often isn’t healthy or balanced, and doesn’t include healthy ingredients. When we say “healthy”, we intend “natural”, not contaminated by chemicals, as well as carefully selected, because the environment and the world we live in should also be healthy and not polluted.
The correct answer We are becoming more and more aware of this and for this reason at the beginning of this century some health slogans gained popularity: “shop local”; “choose small distribution”; “eat only sustainable or organic food”, and so on. What do these slogans mean? They mean that the raw ingredients for our daily meals – flour, meat, fish, extra-virgin olive oil, cheese, vegetables, fruit, etc. – must be the “healthiest”, most “natural” and less “contaminated” ones available on the market. In other words, the answer to the demand for healthy foods comes from “organic” products.
24
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
However, even when we say “organic”, we need common sense. Unfortunately, we can’t stop the acid rain that falls over vegetable and fruit crops; we can’t stop the wind the carries fumes and poisons; we can’t filter underground waters whose veins travel through soils that have been polluted for many years of indiscriminate chemical use. Yet, we have more and more opportunities to make good choices, with the help of increasing awareness, correct information, and a greater attention to labels when shopping. We have to keep in mind, though, that the world isn’t “organic”: the destruction of tropical forests (possibly to be replaced by palm oil plantations) and US President Trump’s inexplicable refusal to limit pollution in the atmosphere are only two negative examples, imitated by corporations that prioritise business over health, and by a president who is endangering people’s health, including ours, for electoral gain.
An ongoing commitment In any case, today is already better than yesterday. For many years, many communities from all over the world have been working hard to reduce pollution, limit the use of chemicals in agricultural food products, make farming more sustainable, and have healthier food. We should all make this commitment if we care about ourselves and our children, and if we want humanity to be prosperous and for this prosperity to spread in developing countries. It is clear that organic remains the right choice, the one we need to privilege, and thus we should all feel committed to choosing organic products in our daily shopping, when buying ingredients for the food we cook.
This applies to families, but even more to those who produce food for others: restaurateurs, cooks, and pizza makers. Ever since its launch, thirty years ago, this magazine has always been committed to support good, healthy food that doesn’t sacrifice aesthetics, because life shouldn't be dull but healthy, serene, and happy. With organic food we can have beautiful, tasty dishes that are also healthy – the ones our body loves the most.
Every job needs
the right
tools
The most complete line of products and best quality
of equipment for pizzerias, bakery, restaurants and fast food. More than 400 items complying with current rules and having their own guarantee, made for industry professionals. Made in italy!
La linea più completa e la migliore qualità
delle attrezzature minute per pizzerie, panifici, ristorazione e fast-food. Oltre 400 articoli garantiti e a norme, rifiniti nei dettagli e costruiti con i materiali più specifici, per i professionisti del settore. Prodotti in Italia!
LILLY CODROIPO s.r.l.
via Lino Zanussi 7 (zona artigianale) 33033 Codroipo UD - ITALIA tel. +39 0432 907166 • fax +39 0432 900938 www.lillycodroipo.com • info@lillycodroipo.com
la qualità
made in Italy
26
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Interpretations of pizza — 2019
C
M
Graziano Bertuzzo
Acciughe & San Marzano
Yields: 1 pizza 125 g of Type 2 flour 70 cl water 3% extra virgin olive oil 2% salt 1 gram of dry yeast Dough made by direct method, left to rise for 24 hours at 4 degrees
Topping: San Marzano tomatoes Fiordilatte mozzarella Anchovies in oil Thinly sliced green courgette Thinly sliced yellow pepper Basil Lemon-infused extra-virgin olive oil
Graziano Bertuzzo, born in 1959, is one of the most important pizza makers in the world. Bertuzzo is the winner of numerous awards and prizes in more than 40 years of experience, and a symbol of Italian pizza in the world. His establishment, Pizzeria Brian in Eraclea (Venice), is in everyone's eyes the pizzeria of the World Champion; this is not surprising, considering also the international success that this pizza maker obtained at the Las Vegas Pizza Expo in 2017. As the Manager for the Technical Department of the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, Graziano Bertuzzo is also one of the most respected teachers for current and aspiring pizza makers.
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
IL PIU ALTO POTERE RADIANTE INFRA-ROSSO
100% PURO FAGGIO
Ideale per la cottura nel forno refrattario perché permette di cuocere non solo per Conduzione e Induzione ma anche per Irraggiamento.
Non contiene impurità, né corteccia, né collanti né idrocarburi, né alcun tipo di additivo aggregante
UMIDITA’≤ 8%
TEMPERATURA COSTANTE PIU’ A LUNGO
‘O Sole mio permette di raggiungere la temperatura perfetta in un lampo.
Rende molto meglio della legna tradizionale perché l‘essenza del faggio migliore.
ULTRA COMPATTO
STOCCAGGIO SEMPLIFICATO
Grazie alla tecnologia di produzione unica risulta essere il più duro e compatto sul mercato
Ogni scatola pesa 18 kg e contiene 8 tronchetti permettendo facilità di stoccaggio, ordine e pulizia sotto al forno.
FORMA OTTAGONALE BREVETTATA
PULITO
Testato e certificato da analisi chimica e batteriologica per la cottura di alimenti
Soluzione unica che assicura Maneggevolezza e Stabilità evitando il rotolamento in platea.
ECOLOGICO
CONVENIENTE
Riduce le emissioni di monossido di carbonio nell‘atmosfera, ma anche la fuliggine nel camino.
A parità di peso e ingombro surclassa di gran lunga in resa anche la migliore legna tradizionale
‘O SOLE MIO E’ IL FUTURO DELLA TRADIZIONE Il Tronchetto ‘O SOLE MIO è Pura Energia da Biomassa, è Pura Essenza di Legno vergine dal Faggio Migliore.
‘O SOLE MIO offre una alternativa ecologica piu conveniente e piu potente alla legna tradizionale perche ha un rendimento superiore e un potere calorifico costante.
‘O SOLE MIO il tronchetto
Benessere Eco-Innovativo
San Giovanni al Natisone (UD) / Italy T. +39 0432 756883 / F. +39 0432 757462 sitta@sittasrl.com / www.sittasrl.com
28
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019 Leo Spizzirri A native from Chicago, Leo Spizzirri has spent a lifetime supporting the pizza and baking industry with his expertise in dough rheology and his speed manufactoring. His responsabilities in commercial artisan bread and frozen pizza have led him to stand in the forefront of dough and pizza innovations where he has supported major national brands across the USA and Canada.
“Not yo mama’s bacon & eggs” Pizza DOUGH FORMULA 1 Lt Water 1600 g Le 5 Stagioni Tipo 1 “Macinata a Pietra” 5 g Saf-Instant dry yeast 2 g Malt 50 g Sea Salt 50 g Extra Virgin Olive Oil MIXING METHOD To the mixer, add all water, 3/4 flour, yeast and malt. Mix on low speed for 3 minutes then cover the dough inside bowl and allow to rest for 30 minutes. Start mixing on 1st speed and slowly add remaining flour until all has been incorporated into the dough. Once all flour has been added, increase mixer to 2nd speed. Slowly add all oil until all has been absorbed into dough. Add salt and continue mixing on 2nd speed until salt has been incorporated and dough is will mixed and smooth. Final dough temperature should be 23-24 degrees C. Place dough in a container and allow to rest, covered, for 15 minutes. Divide dough and shape into balls. Refrigerate for 24-48 hours before stretching and baking. TOPPING Roasted butternut squash puree Smoked Scamorza Fior di Latte Pancetta Cured Egg Yolks Green Onion
An artisan pizza and bread makery by trade, Spizzirri was first certified as a pizzaiolo by 12 time world champion master Tony Gemignani, at the International School of Pizza in San Francisco, California. Spizzirri then completed his studies at the oldest pizza school in the world, Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, in Venice, Italy, under Graziano Bertuzzo.
StraPizza Bella Napoli... StraPizza True Napoli! ®
®
A speckled outer crust, a soft inner texture that enhances the flavour of the finest traditional ingredients. Choose StraPizza Bella Napoli flours approved by AVPN, the protection consortium for Pizza Napoletana.
www.strapizza.it
Follow us on Facebook!
StraPizza BellaNapoli is also certified
WE ARE WAITING FOR YOU AT: GulFood Dubai, 17-21 February Cibus Connect Parma, 10-11 April • TuttoFood Milan, 6-9 May • Anuga Cologne, 5-9 October
30
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Tony Gemignani Gemignani has had a passion for the pizza industry since 1991. His humble beginnings began at his brother’s acclaimed Pyzano’s Pizzeria in Castro Valley. Fresh out of high school, Tony took on the task of a pizza thrower and soon began entertaining the restaurant crowds with his wily tricks. A few years later, he entered into his first pizza throwing competition in Las Vegas and quickly became the top pizza thrower in the world.
Campari RED PASSION TOPPING One 13 – ounce (370 gram) ball Master Dough, preferably with starter (page 44), made with Poolish 4 parts flour mixed with I part semolina, for dusting 1 ounce (30 grams) sliced pancetta 7 ounces (200 grams) whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (3/4 cups) Red pepper flakes, for sprinkling 1.5 ounces (45 gams) fresh goat cheese, preferably Laura Chenel 2 ounces (55 grams) escarole, thick stems removed, cut into ¾ inch (2 centimeter) pieces 2 ounces (30 grams) Peppadew peppers, cut into strips Extra Virgin Olive Oil for drizzling CAMPARI SYRUP BY TONY GEMIGNANI 1/3 cup (75 grams) Campari ¼ cup (65 grams) blood orange syrup, such as Torani Few drops of Angostura bitters To make the Campari syrup, pour the Campari into a small, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 1 ½ minutes, add the blood orange syrup, return to a boil, and boil for another 2 minutes. Add the bitters and continue to boil for 1 minute longer. Remove the pan from the heat. To check the consistency, lift some of the syrup on a spoon and drizzle it over a palte. It should have the consistency of maple syrup. If it is too thin, return it to the heat and continue to boil it, checking it frequently. You should have about 3 tablespoons syrup. Transfer the syrup to a small squeeze bottle. It can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days.
Since his days at his brother’s pizzeria, Gemignani has received a number of accolades for his impressive pizza making and throwing skills. He is president of the World Pizza Champions; the first and only Triple Crown winner for baking at the International Pizza Championships in Lecce, Italy; and, his most prestigious title to date, the 2007 World Champion Pizza Maker at the World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy, where he was the first American and non-Neapolitan victor. He has appeared on popular shows like Gemignani also received his Master credentials from the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli.
32
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Bella Vita pizza
PIZZA RECIPE Italian Coppa, handmade pizza dough, mozzarella, rocket lettuce, grilled eggplant, basil oil.
Li Gouwei Li Gouwei is an Chinese pizza baker form Tianjin and the winner of 2018 Pizza World Championship - China selections. Li Gouwey from 2001 to 2003, had professional training and education in Tianjin Institute of chefs and cookery, from 2003 to 2006, worked as chief cook in Tianjin Yiyuan Hotel, from 2006 to 2008, worked as chief cook in Tianjin Tai Heng Ge Hotel. Now Li Gouwei works as chief cook in Bella Vita Restaurant under Ponte Vecchio Italian Cuisine & Wine Bar Management (Tianjin) Co., Ltd .
Li Gouwei: “I grew up at the field, so the sightseeing of the field with blue sky and white could is always in my memory. With the development of industrialization, Beijing and Tianjin area, where I live, start to have serious environment problem, which is smog. Therefore, I created this pizza called bella Vita to help people remind of the good old days we used to have. At the same time, I hope every one who eats this pizza can remember the blue sky we used to embrace, and can try our best to protect and maintain our same family-the planet�.
34
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Javier G. Labake’s Pizza Focaccia Collemaggio Pan Pizza Ham and peppers ingredients
amount unit
Wheat Flour Water Yeast Salt Sugar
500 310 15/20 12/15 5
Grs. cc. Grs. Grs. Grs.
Mix yeast, sugar and water in a large bowl, let stand for a few minutes. Then add salt. Stir in flour and knead for 2-3 minutes until a soft dough forms. Divide the dough in two and let it rise for 5-10 minutes in a warm place (250C a 280C). Then place the pizza bun, in a oiled 30cm pizza pan and let it rise again for another 10 minutes. Top the pizza dough with the tomato sauce and let it rise again until it doubles its size. Cook in oven at 250 ºC for five minutes, then remove from oven and let it
director of “ Escuela Professional de Maestro Pizzeros, Empanaderos y Cocineros” APPYCE (School of Cooks, Pizza and Empanada makers) was started as the need from The Argentinian Owners Association of Pizza and Empanada Houses, to train the associated pizzerias' employees. In 2006 APPYCE School opened its doors, initially offering two professional career tracks; Pizza and Empanada Professional and Professional Chef. In January 2018, APPYCE received the certification of the World Association of Chef ’s Societies (WACS). The certification recognizes the high standard of quality culinary education offered to our constituents and our contribution to the continued growth of the global hospitality and food service industries. All of the five Professional Careers tracks which APPYCE offers (Pizza and Empanada Professional, Professional Chef, Professional Baker, Professional Pastry Chef, Pastas Professional Cook and Panadero Facturero Profesional) have a unique ‘individual practice’ teaching method, requiring that each student makes every recipe themselves, guaranteeing comprehensive knowledge of all the culinary techniques.
®
Cooking healthy recipes and meals doesn’t have to be difficult or time-consuming! These healthy veggie creams/dips/sauces/ bases/ingredients will please everyone. Thanks to our eco-pouches we preserve naturally all the texture and the taste of the best veggies. Professional cooks and pizza makers can use our Salsiamo range to boost their own recipes taking advantage of our Italian heritage. Easy to use as an ingredient. Ready to use as a topping.
� Ambient Storage � Shelf Life: 3 years
VEGETABLE SPREADS
Thanks to their revolutionary concept, the Salsìamo (veggie creams/spreads/dips/sauces) have no sour taste thus they match perfectly with a wide range of recipes and dishes. We have elaborated Salsìamo spreads aiming to reach every kind of cuisine: fusion or traditional, fast food or restaurant.
MARINATED VEGETABLES
- No sour taste when baked, no moisture during the cooking process, paramount to keep the pizza crust deliciously crunchy. - A great seasoning that pairs well with tomato and mozzarella cheese. - Keep their original texture after cooking (soft mushrooms and crunchy artichokes) for the perfect bite. - Ready to eat as antipasti and ready to use as an ingredient.
BENEFITS
� Gluten free � Eco packaging � Vegan � No GMO � No allergens � No milk & dairy NOVA FUNGHI S.r.l. Via Roma, 4 - 35010 S. Giorgio delle Pertiche (PD) - ITALY Tel. 049.5747822 - Fax 049.9370002 www.novafunghi.it - info@novafunghi.it
Solo alta qualità dal 1980
36
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Stefano Miozzo's Pizza
"Cortile dei Nonni" Pizza Classic base with Amarone wine, blanched Swiss chard, pan-sautéed Tardivo radicchio, roasted pigeon breast, escalopes of foie gras, Maldon vanilla salt, Parmigiano Reggiano, 25year aged balsamic vinegar, and egg yolk bottarga.
Stefano Miozzo, the 2018 Classic Pizza world champion, works at the “Al Borgo 1964” restaurant, in Palesella of Cerea in the province of Verona. In April he won the title for the “Classic Pizza” category with his pizza “Cortile dei nonni” [Grandparents' courtyard], which, as the name says, is dedicated to this Veronese pizza maker's family. With this pizza, Stefano Miozzo also won another special prize (the Parmigiano Reggiano Prize); he placed third in the Pizza for Two competition with Manuel Baraldo, won the Pizza Triathlon prize, and won Best Pizza Team. Stefano Miozzo enriched the dough with a typical local wine, Amarone, which gives it a dark colour.
studioverde.it
The masters of Italian excellence Since 1963 we have been designing and producing electric ovens, gas ovens and equipment for pizzerias. The passion for our work is expressed in the beauty and quality of our products. Beware of imitations.
Ovens and equipment for pizzerias www.cuppone.com
studioverde.it
The masters of Italian excellence Since 1963 we have been designing and producing electric ovens, gas ovens and equipment for pizzerias. The passion for our work is expressed in the beauty and quality of our products. Beware of imitations.
Ovens and equipment for pizzerias www.cuppone.com
40
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Pizza Ricardo
RECIPE Indirect dough with Poolish method Flow 60% type 1 Stone milled Flow / 40% 00 w390 60 hours of fermentation and maturation WHILE BAKING Basil cream 500 gr. basil 20 gr. Extravirgin oil 50 gr. Grana Padano 500 gr. Mascarpone Salt OUT OF THE OVEN Burrata cheese mixed Pistacho mortadella Grana Padano Pistacho crumbles
Nicola Diana Nicola Diana, born in Lubeck in 1985, is a german pizza maker of italian deshent. Nicola works at “Da Diana”, a pizza restaurant near Lubeck, in Bad Schwartau and 2018 won the German Pre Seleciton World Pizza Championship, in Hamburg. In 2016 Nicola was the best german Pizza Maker 2014 and 2016 at World Pizza Championship, in 2011 the 3 position in largest pizza, free style pizza, and pizza presentation. Nicola Diana’s Pizza is named “Ricardo” and won in 2018 the Hamburg selection.
42
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Gennaro Nasti
Pizza Antica
RECIPE Whole wheat flour Water, salt, yeast Direct dough mix method TOPPING Ancient Neapolitan Ragout, Buffalo mozzarella and basil, EVO oil
Gennaro Nasti comes from Secondigliano, Neaples. He is born in 1975 and he defines himself as a peculiar Neapolitan, as a matter of fact in 2014, when he arrives in the French capital city, he opens two completely different restaurants: Popine, in Menilmontant boulevard and later on Bijou (October 2016) in rue Dancourt, where you can eat gourmet pizza. Gennaro Nasti proposal makes a modern pizza, that goes out of the boundaries of Neapolitan pizza, and he says “my Neapolitan pizza not the disciplinary pizza”. “I am that kind of person who likes to experiment without forgetting my Neapolitan origin and tradition. On my opinion pizza is not street food, it is culture, a journey into the Italian taste. I only work with selected high-quality ancient wheat flour. I look for the best Italian products to make the best contemporary pizza ever.
Passion, quality, innovation We’ve been manufacturing with passion, for over 30 years, high quality professional pizza tools. Exactly the same passion pizza makers use to create their masterpieces of taste.
44
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Savino Di Noia
slow food Pizza Verace Napoletana (Vera Pizza Napoletana) with Lucanian products INGREDIENTS AND PROCEDURE organic tomato fior di latte caciocavallo podolico cheese from Abriola olive infornate (oven dried black olives) from Ferrandina salsiccia pezzente (sausage) from Matera basil Extra Virgin olive oil (Caciocavallo cheese, olives and sausage are 3 Slow Food presidia of Basilicata) CONDIMENTS – GARNISHING THE PIZZA BASE Fresh San Marzano DOP tomatoes and the certified “fior di latte dell’Appennino meridionale” are used for the base. Once the base is made, complete the slow food pizza by adding other three presidia ingredients: the caciocavallo cheese thinly sliced, olive infornate (oven dried black olives), and the salsiccia pezzente (sausage) cut into slices. Before putting into the oven, add the basil and pour Extra Virgin Olive Oil over the pizza.
Credits photo by NewsEventicomo Relazioni Pubbliche Consulting
Savino Di Noia was born in Germany from migrant parents in 1984: in 1986 the Di Noia family came back to Lavello, where they opened the Bar Forentum, a small neighborhood bar in the historic center of the town. Savino started to apply himself to the family activity when he was a young boy, helping them to improve and grow professionally: in 2001 the activity upgraded from bar to restaurant and pizzeria. Savino pursued the studies in the foodservice industry at the Gualtiero Marchesi’s Alma (the International School of Italian Cuisine), where he graduated as F&B Manager, and at Villa Crespi, where he worked at the side of Chef Cannavacciuolo. Savino has reached important fulfillments also for the pizzeria: in 2017 he obtains the affiliation with AVPN (the “Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) and in 2019 he earns the recognition of the “two slices” into the Gambero Rosso Pizzerie d’Italia guide. Savino’s professional growth and purposes also includes: the Forentum Suites the project based on the restoration of houses in the old town center, now turned into fully equipped comfortable rooms, and the Bar Forentum, which is going to open again very soon, in order to expand the Forentum offer even more.
Expertise and specialization are the main features of Dell’Oro, that from over half century produces a whole range of strong and reliable machines, completely “made in Italy” with the primary aim to help you in your work. Automatic divider and rounder moulders
Screw round moulders
Levelling machines for pizza
Spiral mixers
Kneading arms mixers
Fork mixers
THE QUALITY, OR YOU BUY IT NOW, OR YOU PAY IT LATER 23868 VALMADRERA (Lecco) ITALY Viale XXV Aprile, 42 e-mail: info@delloro.it diedello@tin.it Tel.: +39.0341.581202 Fax: +39.0341.200251
w w w. d e l l o ro. i t
46
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
interpretations of pizza 2019
Mortadella and Grana Padano
Fiordilatte Pistachio cream Porcini mushrooms sautéed with oil, parsley and garlic Wild rocket Grana Padano shavings Mortadella al Pistacchio di Bologna Pistachio Wine pairing: White Port FOR THE DOUGH - NEAPOLITAN STYLE 1lt water 45/50g sea salt (depending on outdoor temperature) Type 00 flour Brewer's yeast 1 ml Mix ingredients in a twin-arm dough mixer for 35-40 minutes, allow to stand for 2 hours and to rise for 12 hours at room temperature (12-18 hours if at a controlled temperature of 15-18 degrees) Roll out the pizza with the traditional 'slap' technique and bake in a woodfire oven at 480°C.
Antonio Mezzero's Pizza Antonio Mezzero, Portuguese by adoption but Campanian native, lives and works in Porto, where he owns the "Antonio Mezzero - Passion, art and quality" pizzeria. His passion for pizza is not limited to catering: he has participated in – and won – major international pizza awards, he's organized in his city – Porto, of course – an International Trophy dedicated to pizza and wine, which he called “All Stars Pizza Antonio Mezzero Trophy”, and in 2016 he gathered Portuguese pizza makers in Portugal's pizza capital. His style of pizza is inspired by the Neapolitan tradition, with dough with a short rising time and a base that's thin in the middle with a thicker edge - but not too much. Antonio Mezzero's submission includes some of the jewels of Italian tradition (fiordilatte mozzarella, Grana Padano, mortadella), with a Neapolitan dough, all served with a nice glass of white Port.
47
“Tra Fior di Fragola e Croccante” [“Strawberry and Almond Crunch”]
The dough is made by direct method, left to ferment for 48 hours: 24 hours bulk fermentation at controlled temperature, 12 hours at controlled temperature after shaping, and another 12 at room temperature. 1 L Water
Pier Daniele Seu Pier Daniele Seu, born in 1987, is the owner of “Seu Pizza Illuminati”, a restaurant located in the historical Porta Portese area in Rome. He won the title of best “Dessert Pizza 2018” by the Gambero Rosso Guide to Italian Pizzerias. Seu’s pizza has a prominent, crispy edge, the so-called “Casertano” style; this perfect compromise between Roman and Neapolitan pizza has become his signature. In 2014 he won the Emerging Pizza Lazio award and in 2016 the Best Emerging Pizza Chef award.
Flour 1.6 KG – 1.2 KG midstrength Type 0 flour, 400 g Type 1 flour 1 g yeast 25 g salt 30 g oil The topping of Pier Daniele Seu’s sweet pizza consists of: caramelised cane sugar, macerated strawberries, strawberry and ginger coulis, whipped ricotta and lime, candied almonds, mint.
A question of synergy
Le Farine di Leonardo®, the new range of flours by Molino Bertolo and Master baker Leonardo Di Carlo, is bringing about a revolution in the food market. How? It all boils down to two key words: GENUINENESS and SYNERGY. The TENERUM®, ROBUSTUM®, INTEGRUM® and CARYOPSIS® flours have been created to be used on their own, but become a revolutionary ingredient when mixed together. Four different products, ideal for any type of preparation: from bread to pizza, flat bread and pastries. Two “classic” and two whole-grain flour types suitable for all uses, made from 100% Italian single grains, designed to bring back the exceptional quality of wholly natural products.
TENERUM® and ROBUSTUM®, our two classic flours, are fundamental ingredients for any type of preparation: the first is strong par excellence, the latter is weak and particularly versatile. The range is completed by INTEGRUM® and CARYOPSIS®, two whole-grain flours designed to meet the requirements of any professional. Flagship of the range is no doubt Caryopsis®, theepitome of whole-grain flour , with the most whole-grain content achievable while remaining within the parameters that characterize it. With 1.69% ash, it is one point below the maximum threshold allowed for wholegrain flour, and is the most complete product achievable by just grinding. Who are our flours designed for? Our flours are the perfect solution for all food professionals, especially bakers who make bread, pizza and pastries, and also for restaurant chefs who need to make anything from bread to desserts, flat bread, breadsticks and much more. It clearly emerges that working with a narrow range of flours is particularly convenient wherever space is at a premium, because fewer flour types take up less space in the store room (if any). Efficiency goes hand in hand with quality, with the Le Farine di Leonardo® range of flours. To find out more check our website www.lefarinedileonardo.com
50
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
TO M ATO ' S E T R A O R D I N A RY H I STO RY
Brought into Spain from Mexico, tomato was for a long time considered an ornamental plant before being used for cooking and pizza-making by Giampiero Rorato
A
Franciscan friar was the first to bring the news of this incredible gift to Europe. It was Brother Bernardino de Sahagún, a small Spanish town near the city of Leon. After coming to Mexico with the conquistadores, he arrived in the city of Tenochtitlàn and saw this fruit being sold at the large city market as a sauce. In a report titled Historia general de las cosas de Nueva España, sent to Spain around 1560 to the authorities that requested it, he wrote that women “would mix [tomato] as follows: .aji (chilli), pepitas (pumpkin seeds), chiles verdes (hot green chillies) and other things that make sauces very flavoursome”. Then, he discovered that in Mexico tomato sauce – sold ready for use at the market (still a common custom in many countries where it is sold on the street) – was served at elegant banquets as part of
dishes where it was alternated with meat, especially chicken and turkey. A similar dish was once served to Bernardino, but, as he recalls in his Historia general, he complained because even if locals considered the dish a delicacy, it was served with “dog meat underneath, and chicken on top”. Father José de Acosta also wrote about it in his Historia (1589) and praised this product, very popular among Mexican people. When the tomato was introduced in Spain, its fruits had to be very small; in fact, its scientific name is Lycopersicum cerasiforme, which suggests that at the time tomatoes resembled large cherries. Acosta describes them as “large, fresh and healthy berries”, very juicy, “used to make flavoursome sauces that contrast the effects of aggressive chilli, and taste good even eaten by themselves.”
51
The arrival in Europe
D
In Naples
B
espite praise from those who learnt about it and tasted it in Mexico, when the tomato arrived in Europe it struggled to be considered food, so much so that physician Costanzo Felici (1525-1585) of Modena wrote that “it's more beautiful than tasty”. Shortly after tomato had arrived in Europe, a French connoisseur in the mid-sixteenth century ascribed it exciting and aphrodisiac qualities to encourage
y the end of the eighteenth century, the tomato had been in Europe for just under three centuries. In Naples, local ingenuity had long invented fast-food, and a cheap, hot dish of boiled octopus and macaroni was sold on the streets. At the time, macaroni was still "in bianco" or "incaciati" (cheesy), as reported by Johann Wolfgang Goethe who ate it whilst visiting Naples during his famous journey across Italy; tomatoes were not used for cooking yet. Some brave soul had already tried to use them, but with no success. As early as 1607, in Recanati, Giovanni Francesci
its use in cooking. That’s how in France it came to be known as “pomme d'amour”. Nevertheless, it continued to be grown for its beauty and not for cooking purposes. The name by which it is known today in Italian (pomodoro) was given to it by botanist Pietro Andrea Mattioli (1500-1575) of Siena, who saw it at a particular time of maturation and called it “pomo d'oro” (golden apple); therefore, at the time it was not yet red, but golden yellow.
Angelita Rocco had published a small treatise on how to grow tomatoes, which was snubbed by cooks at the time. Another century shall pass before the lay coadjutor in a Jesuit community in Rome would write a book of recipes for the food he prepared for the Brothers. The manuscript, titled “Il Panunto toscano” (held at the Municipal Library of Arezzo) contains the first recipe for how to cook tomatoes: "These fruits, which in some ways resemble apples, are grown in gardens and can be cooked as follows: Take them, chop them up, and put them in a skillet with olive oil, pepper, salt, minced garlic, and
52
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
wild mint. Sauté them, stirring them about frequently, and should you want to add some sliced tender molignane [aubergines] or white cucuzze [courgettes], they'll go quite well". It will be only between the late eighteenth and the early nineteenth century, as mentioned above, that the tomato will finally be included in cookbooks. Vincenzo Corrado (1736-1836), a cook, food connoisseur, philosopher, scholar and man of great culture, author of the famous “Il Cuoco Galante” (The Gallant Cook; 1773), was the first to tantalise his readers with “tomato on larded capretto shanks with rosemary, braised in butter and herbs”. From then on, tomatoes enjoyed a growing success.
Viermicelli co le pommadoro In 1797, the gastronomy treatise titled L’Apicio moderno (The Modern Apicius) by Francesco Leonardi, cook to Catherine II of Russia, was published. Leonardi published the first recipe for “culì” (coulis), or French tomato sauce, which at the time was very popular in Russia, even if it was yet to be served with pasta. Gennaro Spadaccini, chamberlain and cook to King Ferdinand II of Naples, would be the first to prepare a dish of pasta with tomatoes to please the king, who wanted to offer his guests something other than the usual pasta in bianco. And so, the recipe for Viermicelli co le pommadoro was born: “Pick eight pounds of tomatoes, cutting out any
blemishes, removing the seeds and water, and boil them. When they are soft, pass them through a sieve, and cook them down by a third. When the sauce is sufficiently dense, boil four pounds of fresh vermicelli. Drain the pasta and add it to the sauce along with salt and pepper. Stir and cook the pasta until the sauce has dried and serve.” The year 1839 is the official birth date of pasta with tomato; but not of pizza with tomato, since there is no document that can confirm it. However, progress was quick, and in less than a century tomato would become indispensable in Southern cuisine, and conquer Northern Italian cuisine a few decades later.
Varieties Antico pomodoro di Napoli Slow Food
Pera d'Abruzzo, flavoursome and with
Prunill – ideal for passata
certified since 2000.
few seeds
Regina - Slow Food certified.
Camone - ideal for salads
Pizzutello, sweet and slightly sour,
Riccio di Parma - Riccio di Parma
Cherry – among the best sellers in large-
native of Mount Vesuvius
tomato, sweet, delicate flavour
scale retail
Pomodoro di Pachino, which is PGI-
Roma – the most widely used in the
Corbarino – a Campanian jewel.
certified and widespread throughout
tomato processing industry.
Beefsteak – rich flavour, suitable for
Italy
San Marzano – the most famous one,
salads
Villa Literno tomato, produced in the
used for passata
Datterino – ideal for long-term storage
southern area of the Caserta province
Torpedino, ideal for salads, but when
Fiaschetto Slow Food certified.
Yellow tomato - Suitable for fish.
ripe it is destined for processing
Marinda, eaten in the winter, very
Siccagno tomato, from Sicily, with very
flavoursome
little water and a lot of pulp
Tomato products, which comprise the “red” production line, are:
•
Whole peeled tomatoes (Pelati): Long, bright red tomatoes that are peeled and added to tomato juice; they are heated after packaging in airtight containers.
•
Tomato paste (Concentrato): obtained from concentrated tomato juice, with a dry extract content of at least 12%.
•
Chopped tomatoes (diced and crushed): From peeled tomatoes (including round varieties) that are chopped or crushed, processed and packaged like whole peeled tomatoes.
•
Passata (Tomato puree): obtained directly from juicing fresh tomatoes, removing skins and seeds, and partial removal of water so that the refractive index is between 5 and 12 Brix degrees.
•
Whole unpeeled tomatoes (Tomatoes and Datterini tomatoes): small-size tomato varieties with a high sugar content that makes them sweet and flavoursome, with few seeds and a thin skin.
(source: Anicav – Cibus 2018)
Il mulino di Napoli WE HAVE ALWAYS : Selected and mixed the BEST WHEAT in the tradition of the ANCIENT ART OF MILLING.
GROUND our wheat SLOWLY to preserve the starch
and protein content.
Since 1924, we have ground wheat with generosity and passion so as to offer professionals and baking connoisseurs the very best in quality flour, produced with great respect for the raw ingredients and traditions. The experience developed over three generations as Master Neapolitan Millers means we can guarantee extremely high standards of quality as well as the preservation of the natural authenticity of flavours.
Guaranteed HIGH HYDRATION
dough with our flours. Used WHEAT and WHEAT ONLY with no extra additives.
Antimo Caputo S.r.l Corso San Giovanni a Teduccio, 55 – 80146 Naples, Italy +39 081 752.05.66 – info@mulinocaputo.it
www.mulinocaputo.it
This is achieved thanks to techniques that use wheat alone, skilfully selected and mixed following a slow grinding process. This is the art of Caputo, the Mill of Naples.
Pizzeria
Saccorosso
Traditional
Reinforced
Flour with elastic and resistant gluten,
Ideal for dough that requires long
ideal for light dough with perfect
resting times and leavening at a
leavening.
controlled temperature.
25 Kg
Tipo “1”
25 Kg
Soft wheat flour with a distinctive
Nuvola and Nuvola Super
colour, fragrance and taste, with
For airy and fragrant crusts
germ and bran, able to enhance
Flours that ensure volume and
any preparation.
softness to the doughs.
Historical label
25 Kg
Fior di riso
Gluten free rice flour
Ideal for all uses. Perfect for frying, tempura, for dusting the kitchen workbench and also to make
25 Kg
Fioreglut
Gluten free flour
Created specifically for bread, pizza and desserts to give up gluten but not taste.
traditional pizza.
1 Kg
Active Dry Yeast
Long fermentation power. Easy to use and store.
A product that is naturally 100% italian. It is suitable for all types of leavening and is also perfect for gluten-free preparations.
100 g ℮
1 Kg
Cuor di cereali
Multigrain mix with cereals and seeds: sunflower, rye, flax, barley,
sesame and wheat. To be mixed according to an ideal dosage of between 10 and 20%.
1 Kg
56
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Wholemeal spaghetti with tomato Gennaro Esposito
Gennaro Esposito was born in 1970 in Vico Equense, in the province of Naples, and is the head chef at the “Torre Del Saracino” restaurant, a two-Michelin star establishment. Chef Gennaro Esposito is the organizer of the “Festa a Vico”, an event dedicated to Campanian cuisine held in the first half of June, and is considered one of the ambassadors of Campanian cuisine. Here, Gennaro Esposito creates a classic, traditional Mediterranean dish, one as simple as it is delicious: spaghetti pomodoro. 500 g of cherry tomatoes, 320 g of wholemeal spaghetti, 40 g of extra virgin olive oil, a clove of garlic, basil leaves, salt. Procedure: in a pan, sauté the garlic in the oil and remove it once browned. Then add the halved cherry tomatoes and basil leaves, and cook on high heat for about 5 minutes, adding salt to taste. Cook the spaghetti in plenty of salted water, drain when still al dente and pour them into the pan. Toss for a few minutes, and serve. Plating: twirl the spaghetti and place them in the centre of the plate. Complete with a leaf of fresh basil and serve.
60
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
LA SCIENZA DELL'ALIMENTAZIONE
Mozzarella & fior di latte:
a co m pa r is o n W
hen talking about mozzarella and fior di latte, you can really say it's a matter of substance. As a matter of fact, the only difference is in the core ingredient: milk.
by Marisa Cammarano
61
C o w o r b u f falo , it ' s all ab o u t m ilk
M
ozzarella and fior di latte are the same thing, if by mozzarella we intend a spun-curd cheese made only with cow's milk. The thing is, in Campania (its birthplace) mozzarella is usually made with buffalo milk. Hence the misunderstanding, which can create some confusion. This is compounded by bureaucracy.
Mozzar e lla o r f io r di l atte , wh at ' s th e diff e r e n ce ?
M
ozzarella from cow's milk, also known as fior di latte, received the TSG (Traditional Speciality Guaranteed) certification in 1996, which certifies the production method but not the source of the raw ingredients, or their quality. In the same year, mozzarella made only with milk fresh full cream milk from Mediterranean Italian buffaloes was certified PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), with the name of Campanian Buffalo Mozzarella. Before that year, the term mozzarella applied to any cheese obtained with the traditional spun-curd technique and made with cow milk, buffalo milk or a blend of the two. Since the TSG certification does not guarantee quality or source of the raw ingredients, the PDO certification was introduced for fior di latte mozzarella from
the southern Apennines. This is produced in Campania, parts of Molise, Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia and southern Lazio, but its capital city is Agerola, a small town in the province of Naples. Milk must be extra fresh, from cows fed with forage typical of the production area. The cheese texture is slightly different from classic mozzarella: more fibrous, it releases a milky liquid when cut, and the skin is slightly thinner. PDO Campanian buffalo mozzarella is a soft spun-curd table cheese made from full-cream buffalo milk; the specifications prescribe exclusively the use of buffalo milk to make buffalo mozzarella. Therefore, even partial use of cow's milk is prohibited. Otherwise the cheese could not be labelled “buffalo mozzarella” and cow's milk would be included in the ingredients. The characteristics of this re-
64
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
LA SCIENZA DELL'ALIMENTAZIONE
nowned cheese are the same as other soft spun-curd cheeses: coagulation at 33°C (lower in the warmer months, higher in the colder ones); minimum humidity 57%, with a minimum fat in dry matter ratio of 54% (up to 52% is admissible); its flavour is unmistakable; the texture is slightly springy in the first 8-10 hours after production, then it becomes firmer. The shape is globular; the structure is thin overlapping layers, which tend to become indistinguishable after the first one; it is porcelain-white in colour, with a smooth, shiny surface, and a very thin skin (less than a millimetre). When cut, it releases a whitish liquid smelling like lactic ferments. It shouldn't have holes. Cracks in the layers might be visible, as well as some of the hollow gaps created during the curd-spinning process; this is not a flaw, but it isn't a prized characteristic, either. The surface should never be slimy (sign of a bacterial microflora defect), rough, wrinkled, or scaly (a storage defect). By law, PDO Campanian buffalo moz-
zarella should be sold only if packaged at the source. In other words, mozzarella is packaged by the producer; no-one else intervenes between the production and packaging stages. Every package must bear the full name “Campanian Buffalo Mozzarella” and the denomination logo, as well as the PDO logo. Furthermore, the cheese factory authorisation number must be printed (for example: AUT. CONSORZIO TUTELA N. 000/00/0000). Finally, if the packaging is the traditional knotted plastic bag, there should be a guarantee seal affixed by the producer.
To make a good pizza, you need an excellent mozzarella that preserves all the characteristics of a product considered the pride of Campania
PDF CATALOG
Fresh cheese and Buffalo mozzarella in various sizes, a wide choice of products for restaurants and pizzerias.
Mozzarella for pizza both in loafs and pre-cutted Buffalo cheese DOP Mozzarella Fior Di Latte Stringy and smoked cheese Cheese-based food preparations
66
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
LA SCIENZA DELL'ALIMENTAZIONE
. . . to taste it a t i t s b est Buffalo mozzarella should always remain immersed in its liquid until consumption. If you don't plan to eat it all, the liquid should be saved for storing it. At the time of consumption, mozzarella should be at a temperature of around 18-20°C. Consequently, if bought at the supermarket deli counter or if kept in the refrigerator (where the temperature is about 4°C), it must be taken out from the refrigerator a half hour before eating so that it can reach the optimal temperature. Alternatively, mozzarella can be submerged in lukewarm water (35-40°C) for around 10 minutes. If mozzarella is not bought from the refrigerated deli counter, it should be stored with its packaging: in cool water (15° C) in the summer, and in lukewarm water (18-20°C) in the winter.
Nu tritio nal ch aracteristics
Campanian buffalo mozzarella is a nutritious cheese, which in addition to an energy content of 288 Kcal / 100 g has approximately 16.7 g of protein, 24.4 g of fat, very little lactose (0.4 g per 100 g) and many micronutrients (vitamins and minerals), especially calcium (210 mg /100 g) and vitamin B12 (1.7 μg /100 g). Therefore, Campanian buffalo mozzarella has only a few calories more than cow's milk mozzarella, which has approximately 255 Kcal /100 g. The differences between the two products are mainly in flavour, not only because of the different milk source but also the fat content: buffalo mozzarella contains a high amount of short-chain fatty acids and casein.
But what kind of mozzarella is more suitable for pizza? On the market you can find mozzarella for pizza: this is due to some differences with the product called table mozzarella. Mozzarella for pizza has a lower fat and water content, which makes it more suitable for use in a pizzeria, because it can be chopped and doesn't have to be drained before use. The water lost during cooking is in fact a problem that can ruin pizza, especially when using electric ovens that aren't able to dry the lost liquid (due to the longer cooking time compared to a wood-fire oven). Fior di latte mozzarella used on Neapolitan woodfired pizza doesn't have the issue of the excess liquid because of the very high temperature reached by the oven. The explosive heat is able to dry the water lost even with short cooking time: the result is a pizza topped with cheese that has a soft, stringy texture, but with some leftover water, which balances the tomato without being too much.
®
SMOKI is theèoriginal soot abatement system, SMOKI l’abbattitore di fuliggine leader in thenel world. originale leader mondo. PluraleCom
www.smoki.it
Per For respirare a better quality un futuro of the air migliore. we breathe.
Maxi Grill
Smoki Maxi
Smoki
Smoki Junior
Unique in North America complying with cETLus UL standards Our products comply with CE standards
POSSIBILITÀ DI PERSONALIZZAZIONE CUSTOMIZED OFFERS, MACCHINE, FREE ON SOPRALLUOGHI SITE INSPECTIONS E PREVENTIVI GRATUITI • Soot Abbattitori and grease di grassi abatement e fuliggine systems per forni for awood legnafired ovens e griglie and a legna wood/charcoal e carbone.grills. • Grease Impiantiand abbattimento odor abatement odori asystems secco efor adkitchens. acqua. • Exhaust Aspirazione andeaircappe filtration perequipment grandi cucine. for big kitchens.
® ®
www.smoki.it
• Fans Aspiratori for high per temperatures. alte temperature. • Supply Servizioand di video installation ispezione of flues. canne fumarie. • Vendita ed installazione canne fumarie.
Via E. Cella Romagna, 251 16/C - 47841 - 47843 Cattolica Misano (RN) Adriatico - ItaliaAdriatico (RN) - Italia SMOKI srl,Raibano via Cella Raibano, 16/C , 47843 Misano (RN), Tel. 0541 833748 - Fax 0541 821441 - Email: commerciale@smoki.it Terenzio Pirani +39 335 5206031 | Davide Pirani +39 335 5206037 | Marco Muccioli +39 335 5707012 Cinzia Pirani +39 334 1513007
68
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 2018
To make pizza you need flour, to make flour you need wheat by Editorial staff
69
PIZZA AND ITS INGREDIENTS
P 
izza is a baked product that in the course of the centuries has been gradually but constantly changing both in appearance and in preparation. The first mentions of baked dough bases used as plates to serve meat and other foods date back to more than 2000 years ago, even if the first bread discs can be traced back to prehistoric times. However, pizza as we know it only appeared in Naples from the second half of the 19th century: first with Mastunicola pizza (lard, cheese and basil), and then the well-known Pizza Margherita by Don Raffaele Esposito. This pizza already existed in terms of ingredients, but was named "Margherita" and officially presented to the Royal Palace of Naples in June 1889 for the then Queen of Italy, Margherita of Savoy, during her visit to Naples. In the course of the centuries, cheese was substituted with mozzarella, lard with olive oil, and tomatoes and other products were added, but the main ingredients to make the dough remain roughly the same: Flour, Water, Yeast, Salt and Olive oil.
Flour, together with water, is the key ingredient to prepare the dough: it is obtained by processing the seeds of grasses such as durum wheat (e.g. Khorasan, Senatore Cappelli wheat), common (soft) wheat, rye, barley, spelt, rice, corn, millet, sorghum and oats, Polygonaceae such as buckwheat, Amaranthaceae (amaranth), or Chenopodiaceae (quinoa). A wide range of flours from these products is available on the market. Excellent flours can also be obtained from legumes that can also be used for pizza (soy flour). Generally, grasses are the most used plants for bread products and dried pasta, and can be divided in glutinous or gluten-free flours (millet, corn and rice). A further category is legumes, which are used for flours with a high protein content destined for bread-making (soy).
70
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 2018
W H E AT
Wheat has been cultivated since ancient times; it likely originated and spread in the so-called Fertile Crescent - the area that used to be bound by the Mediterranean, the Black and the Caspian Seas. It is now grown all over the world except for tropical forests. The wheat plant presents with a hollow stem, wrapped in leaves, whose inflorescences - the ears are at the top. The wheat grain, or caryopsis, is the fruit, and flour is obtained by milling it. Based on the kind of milling, wheat can be classified in two types.
THE CARYOPSIS
Soft wheat
bran
Durum wheat Soft or common wheat, which prefers warm, temperate climates; in Italy it is grown in the central-northern region. Its flour is used for bread products, pizza, fresh pasta, biscuits, sweets and baked goods.
On the other hand, Durum wheat prefers dry and hot climates; in Italy it originated in the South but lately, due to the rising temperatures, its cultivation has spread upwards on the peninsula.
By milling this type of wheat, semolina is obtained, which is used to make dried pasta, some types of bread and dried baked goods. Semolina is also used to make pizza (with a ratio between 10% and 20%). The caryopsis, or wheat grain, is an indehiscent dry fruit, meaning that at full maturity the outer shell doesn’t open spontaneously to release the seed.
The shape of the grain varies from 6 to 8 mm in length, and 3 to 4 in width. The outer layer (bran) completely envelops the grain, or caryopsis, and it's the most fibrous part of the fruit; it has the highest content of cellulose and mineral salts, and is divided in three layers: pericarp, seed coat or testa, and aleurone layer. Its function is to protect the seed (the endosperm and wheat germ) from external agents.del frutto, cioè l’endosperma e il germe.
endosperm germe
Advanced technological solutions and incomparable performance in the gammadei professional ovens designed for the needs of the modern pizzeria. MODULAR OVENS and MONOBLOCK OVENS Electronic or electromechanical controls for independent temperature control. Resistors arranged on the upper and lower side of the cooking chamber. Precise cooking control. High production capacity and reduced energy consumption.
OVENS, FURNITURE, PIZZA, BAKERY, PASTRY AND RESTAURANT PROFESSIONAL EQUIPMENT
00176 Roma (Italy) Via Fortebraccio, 33 Tel. (+39) 06.21700173 r.a. Fax (+39) 06.21701341 www.castelliforni.it info@castelliforni.it
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 2018
From wheat to flour,
O One of the most ancient foodprocessing activities is milling, or the process of controlled reduction of the particle size of a cereal. This process, which has been a component of human diet for millennia, has significantly evolved and in the last few centuries, thanks to the industrial revolution, it has literally changed eating habits. We definitely recommend delving into this long and fascinating history, on which you can find a large and exhaustive bibliography; but in this column we chose to describe this process – from the wheat field to the shelves of supermarkets and pizzerias all over the world – as it happens today.
SELECTION, RECEIVING A N D A N A L Y S I S O F W H E AT
W H E AT P R O C E S S I N G S TA G E S
72
The first stage in this process is checking, which means analysing of the cereal when it reaches the mill. After arriving at the mill, wheat undergoes a preliminary cleaning to eliminate larger impurities, then it is stored in special warehouses before any subsequent steps. Every warehouse or silo allows the extraction of a specific type of cereal, therefore the mill can choose whether to mill just one type of wheat or use a blend of different types. Once the desired grains have been extracted, they undergo an indepth, thorough cleaning: to do so, machines that remove specific impurities are used. Vibrating separators, for example, divides the grains in three groups – good product, small impurities, large impurities – while the aspirator eliminates straw and lighter impurities. After around seven cleaning steps (but many mills use more), wheat undergoes the tempering or conditioning phase, which ensures the correct amount of moisture in the product before milling.
After these thorough checks and cleaning, it is time for milling; but first, let’s describe the appearance of the common wheat grain. After being cleaned and selected, the wheat grain is light-brown, tending to yellow; it has an elongated shape, albeit shorter than durum wheat, and it is divided in three parts: outer layers (bran), endosperm, and germ. The outer layers are the hardest part of the grain; they are the pericarp, seed coat or testa (the outermost layers) and the aleurone layer, which sheaths
MILLING IS A MECHANICAL PROCESS DIVIDED IN TWO PHASES:
W H E AT M I L L I N G
73
the endosperm. Once they've been milled, the three layers take different names depending on their coarseness: bran, groats and wheatmeal. The outer layers, made of cellulose and fibre, protect the germ and endosperm from external agents. Once the grain has been cleaned, it is completely separated from the rest of the caryopsis during milling; the latter will later become bran. The endosperm is the part with the highest content of nutrients, such as sugars (mostly complex ones like starch), proteins
(gliadin and glutenin, albumin and globulin), lipids, vitamins, mineral salts and enzymes. Flour comes from the endosperm. The germ, also called “embryo”, can be found in the lower part of the grain, under the endosperm, and is separated from it by a sheath called scutellum. The germ stores the nutrients needed for the germination of a new plant. It’s not present in the flour because it is separated from the rest of the caryopsis during milling, but it can be added later, as long as it is indicated on the wheat sack.
First breaking, which is done with corrugated cylinders that break the common wheat grains and separate the endosperm from the outer layers and the germ as much as possible. The main goal of the first breaking, done with roller mills, is to open the caryopsis, detach the endosperm from the bran as much as possible, and leave the bran as large, flat flakes that will then be further separated from any residual endosperm fragments (source: Italmopa.com/ il-processo-produttivo/). For common wheat, further grindings reduce the coarser particles (coarser flour) into finer flour by passing through smooth cylinders and sifting. In the case of durum wheat, there are more steps in the breaking, and the cylinders have deeper corrugations compared to the milling of common wheat; the number of grindings, on the other hand, is inferior.
The grinding phase yields the main product (common wheat flour and durum wheat semolina) and one or more secondary products, called "byproducts" (bran, middlings, groats of varying coarseness). These byproducts are primarily used as animal feed (as fodder themselves or part of it) and are disciplined by a specific European Community regulation. source: Italmopa.com/il-processo-produttivo
74
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Basil:
uses and applications
by Virgilio Pronzati
Some considerations
O 
cimum Basilicum, commonly called Basil, is part of the lamiaceae family and includes more than sixty species that vary in colour, shape, morphology, and especially the chemical composition of the essential oils. It has been known for thousands of years and used to treat stomach pain, skin diseases and other illnesses, as well as to keep away insects. Aside from myths and traditions, its use in Italy is strictly food-related.
The only PDO variety,
on this variety: Although it has been cultivated in our country for centuries, basil has not managed to spread naturally. It is native of warm Asian countries, and in addition to Italy, it is currently extensively grown in France, Egypt, Morocco, Greece, Israel, Indonesia, many areas of the USA, and in othercountries in South America. The various cultivars have different phenological and aromatic characteristics. Many cultivars have bumpy, large leaves, but select ones have small leaves. Their size depends also on the age of the plant.
and the most popular one,
The ideal leaves
is Genovese Basil,
are those of young plants
a core ingredient of
whose stem is still green.
Genovese pesto.
If the stem has turned woody, aside from the different size, leaves will be dark green, have a pungent smell and a slightly bitter flavour due to tannins.
Do you feel that being able to satisfy all your customers is a thing of the past? Come back to the present with the Piantoni Flour Selection! The quality of selected raw materials and passion for things made well: this is what has always inspired our work, based on the tradition of the real “Made in Italy” concept combined with continuous innovation, through which we create products with unique flavours especially formulated to make pizza, bread, desserts and pasta. Try all our flour types in your everyday recipes: you will discover unique results with an authentic taste.
Molino Piantoni: always by your side, since 1850.
Via Cologne, 19 - 25032 Chiari (BS) - Tel. +39 030 711001 commerciale@molinopiantoni.it - www.molinopiantoni.it
#IlMioMolinoèPiantoni
76
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Therefore, basil leaves for a salad, aspic or cold sauce should be from young plants and picked just prior to use. For hot dishes - entrees, first and main courses, and pizzas,
young basil leaves
Greenhouse cultivation all year round yields the best quality basil, as it is protected from the cold and the heat. When grown in an open field, if the temperature rises above 30°C, basil can become oxidised, affecting its colour and aroma.
must be added
If used for pesto, the sauce
just before serving.
will initially be yellow-brown;
The heat from cooking, whether in a pan or in the oven, damages the aroma and crunch of basil. That's why pesto is a cold sauce. Therefore, the best basil to use for dishes and pizzas is fresh, from young plants. In summer, basil is extensively grown in open fields; however, in winter it can also be found in greenhouses, albeit less frequently.
after a few minutes it will turn intense green, almost black. When basil stems are woody, the leaves can be used to make a green sauce for boiled meat and fish, or they can be mashed with garlic and added to vegetable soups. Lastly, they can be used to make basil soup served with croutons and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
THIRTY YEARS OF MADE IN ITALY QUALITY Quality of the components, customer service, time reliability. Since the beginning, thanks to these features Gam International proposes to the Italian and International markets its highly valued professional catering equipment. Equipment with high standard quality in every working condition, in order to give each day value to your activity.
VEGETABLE PREPARATION MACHINES
ELECTRIC PIZZA OVENS
47822 SANTARCANGELO DI ROMAGNA (RN) - ITALY Via dell’Orzo 15 – 17 • Zona artigianale tel. (+39) 0541 332322 - (+39) 0541 332343 fax (+39) 0541 332350 - (+39) 0541 332348 www.gaminternational.it • info@gaminternational.it
SPIRAL DOUGH MIXERS
78
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
ee r F
: m o r f
WHEN INTOLERANCES AND ALLERGIES ENTER THE KITCHEN
by Caterina Vianello
V
egetarian, vegan, gluten free, lactose free. In the food industry, we are witnessing an unprecedented change that has led to a long list of prohibitions and ingredients to avoid. We went from the omnivore described by Michael Pollan in 2008, constantly faced with dilemmas (the title of the book is indeed “The Omnivore's Dilemma”), to a variety of labels to indicate what we exclude from our diets. To paraphrase a common saying, “We are what we don't eat”. The reasons behind certain food choices can be of two types: ethical and medicaldietary. In other words, there are legitimate beliefs that guide one’s lifestyle and eating habits, but there are also specific allergies and intolerances that require the elimination of certain ingredients from one’s diet. Actually, there are two other reasons: religionand fashion-related ones. While the former has been at the core of people’s identity and sense of cultural belonging for thousands of years (for example the prohibition to eat pork, shared by Judaism and Islam; the Christian Friday Fast rule, and the worshipping of cows in Hinduism), the latter are dictated by shortlived “social” rituals and customs, and can become dangerous, if not outright harmful.
79
At first it was only vegetarianism (whose Western roots can be found in Pythagoras’ philosophy) and its subgroups (lacto-vegetarians or lacto-ovo-vegetarians); more recently, veganism (the exclusion of all ingredients of animal origin from one's diet) and gluten- and lactose-free diets have become popular among the public, the market, consumers and food companies, as well as restaurants. For the sake of clarity, a distinction should be made between intolerances/allergies and simple “dislikes”: excluding one or more ingredients from one's diet has an impact on the body, and is not something to approach lightly. That is why there is a difference between a medical recommendation in response to an acknowledged pathology, and voluntarily starting a diet under the impression that avoiding certain ingredients may facilitate weight loss. This is the case for the gluten-free label, which indicates ingredients that don’t contain any gluten. Nutritionists explain that gluten is only harmful to people who have been diagnosed as allergic or intolerant to it, and this can only be confirmed by testing one’s predisposition, or by checking one's intestinal villi. Only in this way can coeliac disease be diagnosed, which requires the elimination of gluten from one’s diet.
When the diagnosis is not confirmed but only presumed, it is better to alternate gluten-free with regular food. Often people may think they are gluten-intolerant because they have irritable bowels. In this case, eliminating gluten can be counter-productive, because gluten-free diets often contain corn, which can be even more irritating for the intestine. Gluten-free food is a hot topic among nutritionists, who are increasingly met with people who believe that a gluten-free diet is healthy and can lead to weight loss, under the influence of fashion or the latest guru. However, gluten-free is not synonymous with low-calorie. On the contrary, for people who are not allergic or intolerant to gluten, its exclusion can be harmful and cause severe nutritional deficiencies. The same can be said about lactose; consumers who, by choice or by necessity, buy “free from” products are being significantly targeted by the market, and increasingly so. In addition to companies that have long specialised in products for people with allergies or intolerances, large food companies and corporations have launched special product lines in response to a growing demand. These lines have increased the availability of products that until a few years ago were hard to find, but have had little impact on prices, which don’t seem to have decreased; they have also contributed to an increasing confusion and lack of clarity, though.
80
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 2018
The catering industry has also “adapted”; faced with customer demand, it has had to comply with health and safety regulations (something that every restaurateur should do by avoiding the contamination of plates and cutlery in the kitchen to prevent allergic reactions). Furthermore, the sector has also been introducing radical changes in their menus. Some ingredients been excluded from recipes, or substituted with vegan or “free from” alternatives (food can be tasty even if it is vegetarian or if one has allergies or intolerances: “free from” is not simply a cuisine “by subtraction”). But not only that: new dishes have been created that are independent from “standard” cuisine. The best examples are from award-winning chefs, who have created dishes that are beautiful tributes to vegetables (in the case of vegetarians), or who found tasty alternatives to wheat, winning over even those who don’t have allergies or intolerances. The most important thing remains correct information and culture: for consumers, so that they can make informed choices not dictated by fads; for companies, which shouldn't take advantage of these fads by adding to the confusion; and for restaurateurs, who are faced with a growing demand and must find a very difficult balance between creating ad-hoc dishes and keeping their culinary identity independent from short-lived trends and temporary fads.
m o r f ree
DISCOVER US AT SYGEP Rimini, January 19–23, 2019 • B7 Pavillion • Stand 066 www.fornidavid.it
82
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 2018
Federico De Silvestri
PIZZA QUAT TROCENTO
e p i c e R Federico De Silvestri is a master instructor with certified training from the Italian School of Pizza Makers and the owner of "Quattrocento" Pizzeria-Focacceria in Marzana, in the province of Verona. De Silvestri's establishment specialises in traditional pizzas, pizza on the peel, and especially gluten-free pizzas, with innovative recipes that pay special attention to gluten-free food laws and regulations. Federico De Silvestri was twice the champion of Gluten-free Pizza (in 2016 and in 2017); in 2018 he won the TV show "The Pizza Boss”, and is currently working as an instructor in the gluten-free pizza courses at the Italian School of Pizza Makers. QUANTITIES FOR ABOUT 8 PIZZA BASES: — 1000 grams gluten free flour mix (corn starch, potato starch, salt, pulse flour, vegetable fibre, rice flour, guar seed flour) — 15 g Brewer's yeast — 50 g of extra virgin olive oil — 840 g of water TOPPING: — PDO Campanian buffalo mozzarella — PGI Red Radicchio, julienne — Crisp courgettes, julienne — Oven-roasted thigh — Shavings of cheese aged in hay — Pear and walnut mostarda
Federico De Silvestri's submission is available also at his restaurant
84
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
FOOD PAIRING
All about food pairing How can food pairing benefit your business?
O
ne of the most innovative food trends of the last few years is food pairing, or the combination of two or more dishes based on their molecular and aromatic composition. This trend, especially common in Anglophone countries, was born from the desire for new flavour combinations; these can be based on various criteria, for example similarity (if the two elements share most aromas), or contrast (when two elements have very little or nothing in common, which creates completely new flavours). In addition to the classic concept of food pairing, or the combination of two ingredients, in the last few years the pairing of food and drinks has also emerged. The principle behind pairing food and drinks is the same as the one between pairing two dishes. By adding a liquid element, the possibilities grow exponentially. But how can food pairing benefit your business? Without a doubt, a prime time is aperitivo. With some research, patience, and a few tips, you could become a trailblazer in this sector:
— research and offer “paths” based on pairings. You can offer a “smoked” aperitivo, perhaps pairing a peated whiskey with salmon, or a “spiced” aperitivo, with ginger-flavoured drinks and sweet and sour dishes; — ensure your bartender acts as a consultant for your customers, and is able to recommend the right pairing based on individual taste; — include in your menu a sort of “pairing map” to show graphically the types of aromas in the food and drinks on offer, and how close or distant they are from each other. The customers themselves will be able to ask for their ideal pairing.
di Caterina Orlandi
85
M I N E R A L W AT E R S — The term “natural mineral water” refers to water that originates from underground aquifers of varying depth, which determines its purity and hygienic features; at the source, this water has its own mineralogical profile and health benefits for human consumption. It belongs to the category of “untreated” or “natural” waters. It is classified in four categories based on the overall saline content, called Total Dissolved Solids (TDS): — TDS < 50 mg/lt: water with very low mineral content — TDS between 50-500 mg/lt: water with low mineral content — TDS between 500-1500 mg/lt: water with medium mineral content — TDS < 1500 mg/lt: water with high mineral content It is important to store it in glass, PET or cardboard containers, taking care to avoid temperature shocks and exposure to sunlight, light, smoke and intense smells. Mineral waters have an expiry date of 1824 months. When serving food, two types of water are offered: still water, without
carbon dioxide, and sparkling water, which contains some carbon dioxide; this category includes also “natural sparkling” water, which has a higher content of natural carbon dioxide at the source (no less than 250 mg/lt). When setting the table, the water glass (or glasses, if having one for still and one for sparkling) is placed at the top right-hand side of the plate. The glass should be a classic goblet with a foot, stem and bowl, so that it can be held avoiding contact with the hand; it should be made of glass or crystal to allow for visual examination, and be smooth and thin to facilitate flow into the mouth and taste the flavours more easily. When serving water, the glass should be filled up to 2/3. Serving temperature is important; it should be 8-12°C for all waters, especially for sparkling waters, which are more sensitive to temperature changes: they can cause a contraction or expansion of the gas bubbles and affect the pungency of the water. Ideally, to be able to fully appreciate the organoleptic characteristics of a mineral water, “external” elements such as ice or lemon should not be added, as they would inevitably change the original profile.
86
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
FOOD PAIRING
—
How-to of water tasting To taste mineral water correctly, a few elements should be considered: pH, which determines whether a substance is acid or alkaline (mineral waters have a pH between 6 and 8); the amount of carbonic acid, but also its “quality”, i.e. the size of the bubbles, how they dissolve in the water and the balance between them; and finally the more characteristic saline content, which determines the “specific weight” of the sample. Of course, the most important step for mineral water pairing is tasting the food, which determines the qualitative and quantitative profile of each sensation based on intensity. The same procedure is used to determine the characteristics of mineral water, which can enhance and improve the pairing with a dish. Pairing is based on the principle of contrasting some aspects and matching others, defined as “absolute and not interchangeable” combinations; for example, a rich dish should be paired with a structured water, one with a bicarbonate-calcium-magnesium profile and a hilly terroir, so as not to be overpowered.
A dish with a persistent taste and smell should be paired with an equally persistent water, perhaps one with a high or medium mineral content; for desserts with intense sweetness, the goblet should contain water that matches the velvety character of the dish, with more or less intense minerality depending on the other dessert ingredients: fresh or candied fruit, walnuts, hazelnuts, chocolate, etc. An important element in mineral water is the presence of carbonic acid in sparkling or carbonated waters, which makes them taste more acidic than mineral still waters (those that don't contain bubbles). Gas bubbles can also be classified based on their size (small, medium or large), and have a different tactile-gustatory effect. So-called “natural sparkling” waters contain tiny bubbles, which cause very subtle, almost gentle gum contractions. Conversely, bubbles from strong carbonation, of medium or large size cause a stronger tingling sensation and have a salty-bitter-metallic taste; for this reason, such mineral waters are very appropriate for rich, heavy, oily and spicy dishes.
COMPLIANT H.A.C.C.P.
COMPLIANT CARBON-TAX
an excellent pizza comes from the fire the new high performance log
Only for pizza ovens the new shape allows air’s flowing, this make ignition and combustion easier Core&Pizza is a patented product
high performance and long life didn’t roll in the oven
Contact us to find out your local distributor or to become our distributor +39 335 53 44 124 | +39 (0)544 55 31 53
coreepizza.it
Cooks Pizza in
90 SECONDS
Engineered to make cooking pizzas truly fast and casual, the Marra Forniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smart Rotator oven is changing the way restaurants, hotels, grocery chains and fast-casuals cook. Each is built brick-by-brick using the same tried and tested process used by Italian masons hundreds of years ago. Our innovative touchscreen gives you full control of temperature, deck rotation speed, direction and auto on/off. Enjoy labor and energy savings thanks to better heat absorption, retention, and more consistent cooking with your new Marra Forni Rotator oven.
Powered Exhaust Fan Plug & Play Ventilation
Custom Tile Design Rotating Brick Deck Touchscreen Control Only 84,000 BTUs
Call today to consult with an expert Business Developer! Inquiries@marraforni.com | MARRAFORNI.COM | 888.239.0575
Credits: Brambilla Serrani
90
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Italian ice cream, between tradition and innovation Three examples of how research, tradition and innovation can be successfully combined in a jewel of Italian cuisine: ice cream. The three master ice cream makers chosen by the editors of Pizza e Pasta Italiana are absolute leaders in their field, albeit with different stories and traditions.
By Patrizio Carrer
92
pizza e pasta italiana international
Portonovo Contemporaneo
2019 2018
FOR THE PEANUT POWDER: — Sucrose 120 gr — Salted peanuts 100 g — Cervia sea salt 3 gr
PAOLO BRUNELLI pride and passion for Italian ice cream Paolo Brunelli is considered to be one of the best ice cream makers in Italy: in 2017 and 2018 he was awarded the prestigious three cones from the Gambero Rosso Guide to the best ice creameries. From a very young age, Paolo Brunelli has been passionate about ice cream: “At the age of 12 years I started to make ice cream with pride and passion, inheriting my grandmother's recipes [...] I have definitely been inspired and influenced by everything that revolves around flavour. My experience in wine tasting and then tea tasting has led me to be almost obsessive in my search for flavour. Therefore, as a chocolatier I think I am quite atypical.
Brunelli manages two stores, one in Agugliano, in the province of Ancona, the second in Senigallia, also in the Marche region. Between 2009 and 2017 he was Artistic Director of the Agugliano Artisan Ice Cream Festival. In 2011, "Crema Brunelli" received the Gourmet Prize. In May 2005, Paolo Brunelli received an important recognition for his "Torta Brunelli", a cake with gianduja and Cravanzana hazelnuts, at the World Expo. In January 2016, "Avanguardia Gelato" [Ice Cream Avant-Garde] was published, Paolo Brunelli's first book, written with three other colleagues. This is a veritable handbook of modern ice cream making published by Italian Gourmet. In March 2016, Paolo Brunelli participated in Identità Golose, the international high gastronomy convention, in the Ice Cream section; he gave a lecture on "Subversive tradition, a journey into the fifth flavour and the disruption of colour". The experience was repeated in 2017 with a lecture titled: "Christopher Columbus didn't like chocolate".
Procedure Make a dry caramel with the sucrose, and add the previously crushed peanuts and the salt. Pour the caramel on a silicone mat, and when cooled, crush it into a powder. Store it in a closed container with calcium chloride. FOR THE JELLY: — Neutral gelatin 250 g — Bitters 80 gr Procedure Put the two ingredients in the mixer to create a smooth, stable emulsion. FOR THE ICE CREAM: — High Q., fresh full cream milk 543 g — Fresh cream 35% 98 gr — Whole cane sugar 89 g — Sweetened evaporated milk 9% 44 g — Skimmed milk powder 31 g — Glucose powder 30 DE 16 g — Dextrose 14 g — Cervia sea salt 1 gr — Dulcey couverture chocolate 164 g — Carob powder 2 g — Guar flour 1 g — White caramel couverture choc. 45 g — Salted peanut powder 45 g Procedure Put milk and cream in the pasteuriser and start the machine at about 70 degrees. When the temperature reaches 40 degrees, sift dry ingredients in together with the neutro. Then add the evaporated milk. While cooling, as the mix reaches 45-55 degrees, add the first half of white caramel couverture chocolate. After the cycle, age the mixture for at least 10-12 hours. Before churning, blend with an immersion blender. Put the mix in the churner and when the ice cream is ready to be taken out, add the melted couverture and the peanut powder mixed together to create a stracciatella effect. Once ready, put ice cream in the blast chiller or refrigerated cabinet to stabilise its structure and temperature. Plating: On a dish or cup, place a quenelle of ice cream with the bitters jelly, peanut powder and candied orange peel.
Credits: Carlo Casella
93
94
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 2018
Maurizio Liparoti is the owner of the Graniteria ice creamery in Trapani, a stone's throw from the beach. Liparoti's story begins when 15-yearold Maurizio got a seasonal job at a family friend's ice creamery and at such a young age, fell in love with ice cream. This background is crucial: Maurizio Liparoti is Sicilian, and the island has always been a crossroads of peoples, religions and cultures â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and food is culture. Liparoti found himself surrounded with first choice produce, from almonds to pistachios, grapes, raisins, figs and much more. This would translate into his work. After some ups and downs, in 2009 the business opened, and in the
following years Maurizio Liparoti would receive numerous accolades. Industry and general magazines took a keen interest in the work of the Trapanese ice cream maker, who offered granitas made with natural, seasonal products, artisan-made ice cream, and flavours that are a synthesis of all of Sicily. To Maurizio Liparoti, the concept of searching for local products is very clear: â&#x20AC;&#x153;the promotion of local products is crucial, even if today is an overused expression. In the early 2000s I became the spokesperson of this new trend; I still proudly champion it today and thanks to social media I can share my work with everyone."
Maurizio Liparoti
96
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 2018
MARCO SERRA the ice-cream artist Marco Serra is 50-year-old and the son of ice-cream makers; he is rightfully considered to be among the best ice cream makers in Italy, so much so that he was awarded three cones by the Gambero Rosso Guide to the best ice creameries in Italy. Eccentric, rebellious, and artistically inclined, Marco Serra learned his profession from his father and after an experience abroad, in 2012 he opened the Mara dei Boschi ice creamery in Turin. At the same time he started his specialisation courses at the Cast Alimenti school, which led him to collaborations with some great Italian chefs; during Expo 2015 he participated in many cooking demonstrations. In 2016 the Mara dei Boschi chapter ended; in July 2016, in his hometown of Carignano, he opened his own ice creamery, in a small building in the middle of town that he renovated himself. The shop has an open-view kitchen lab for all those who wish to learn where ice cream comes from, and a terrace
on the main square, where you can taste this master ice cream maker's creations in a historic Piemontese setting. His strict attention to detail is matched by a meticulous search for the raw ingredients, which Serra chooses personally and which are turned into the highest-quality ice cream: Carignano Zest (candied citrus peel), Peliti's vermouth, Piedmont hazelnuts, and Savona chinotto are among the craft products that Marco Serra uses in his work. Being awarded three cones by the Gambero Rosso Guide was unexpected: "We had already been awarded three cones for Mara dei Boschi after a lot of work, we didn't expect such a quick and prestigious accolade", says Marco Serra, "but we're happy; we picked up where we left off. It's the result of the efforts of a close-knit team that keeps believing in their work. It's the result of a lot of dedication, a good dose of humility and unconditional hope and optimism for the future."
Gianduiotto Sorbet Recipe for 1 kg of gianduiotto sorbet — boiling water 435 grams — chocolate 64% 160 gr — cocoa powder 10/12 % 50 gr — acacia honey 68 g — dextrose 60 g — inverted sugar 20 gr — "Tonda Gentile" PGI hazelnut paste 200 g — Neutro sorbet 7 grams
98
pizza pasta italiana pizza ee pasta italiana international
BEER
2019
99
Pizza & beer a perfect combination by Alfonso Del Forno
Pâ&#x20AC;&#x160;
izza and beer. These two terms are so bound together in current language that they are an almost subconscious refrain for carefree summer evenings (and not only those). But where does this pairing, almost taken-for-granted, come from? Some sources trace the use of beer as an accompaniment for pizza back to Ancient Egypt, and since then there have been a few points in history that have featured a pizza-like dish. To be consistent, we should start from the definition of pizza as we think of it today. Despite the various claims to its origins, pizza was born in Naples around the mid-eighteenth century, and was made exclusively in this city and surrounds until World War II. Only after the war, when entire families from
Naples and some areas in the Salerno province (Tramonti) emigrated to the North, did Neapolitan Pizza start to spread across the country. This pizza is the one we should be talking about as a point of reference. Pizza is now a dish in its own right, the specialty of a new generation of pizza makers that use this disc of dough to express their creativity and showcase a range of different ingredients, almost in competition with classic cuisine chefs. Considering this trend, the pairing of pizza with beer is the most justified, thanks to the wide range of aromas and flavours that current craft production can reach; in this way, the right combination, already a staple of classic cuisine, can be found.
100
pizza pizza ee pasta pasta italiana italiana international
BEER
2019
The rules Before listing any "rules" for pairing, a brief clarification: Any kind of indication or suggestion can only be generic, because they don't take into account the perception abilities of each individual, as well as people's personal experience of what is pleasing in the pairing of food and drinks. One thing is certain, we must follow a necessary rule: 1+1=3! Yes, we have to flout mathematics to achieve a perfect pairing; we have to ensure that the result of the combination can bring out the best in the dish and in the drink, in order to create an experience that represents the right combination between what you eat and what you drink.
Examples .
Features We can start from assessing the organoleptic properties of pizza, studying the characteristics of its toppings and the interactions between them, and taking into account their changes after cooking. A correct analysis considers the final dish, where toppings and dough contribute to the overall value, with greater weight given to the toppings. The main features to consider are aroma/ taste complexity and texture, two parameters that must be comparable with the intensity of beer's smell and taste, as well as its body. Once the balance between the two elements has been defined, the taste of pizza must be analysed based on the classic descriptors: sweet, salty, bitter, acid and umami, taking into account also the presence of spices and fats. Once the organoleptic profile of the pizza has been identified, the prevailing descriptors (especially those that are most characteristic of the dish) are analysed to inform the choice of the ideal beer. To choose the beer, we should remember that sweetness can be contrasted by acidity and bitterness (and vice-versa), and saltiness is contrasted by sweetness, as well as pungency. Oiliness is balanced by crispness and acidity. If the pizza is rich, we need something to cleanse the palate, using beers with a high alcohol content and good dryness.
For a practical example, let's consider a Margherita pizza, which has very simple ingredients: tomato, mozzarella, basil and oil. Tomato gives the pizza a certain acidity, balanced by the sweetness of fior di latte mozzarella. In the case of buffalo mozzarella, a slightly acidic component is also present. Basil adds a balsamic note. The beer pairing could be a Weisse, made from barley and wheat malt, which is sweet at first and slightly acidic near the finish; with its good crispness, it cleanses the palate well and balances the overall sweetness of a Margherita. Although it seems simpler, a Marinara has a much more distinct character than a Margherita. Tomato, oregano, garlic and olive oil are its ingredients. With its acidity, the tomato enhances the aroma and spiciness of garlic and oregano. The beer pairing should have a sweet tendency to balance the characteristics of this pizza. Among low-fermentation beers, Helles and Marzen are good choices. Among high-fermentation ones, we could choose an English pale ale or a Belgian blonde ale. Another classic pizza is the Quattro Formaggi, whose classic version is made with fior di latte mozzarella, gorgonzola, pecorino and Swiss Emmental cheese. The combination of these cheeses gives pizza oiliness, sweetness and tastefulness, in addition to the distinctive aroma of gorgonzola. As a pairing, we should choose a beer with a sweet base, but that also offers good dryness and a good amount of alcohol. My choice would be a Triple, a Belgian beer with these specific characteristics. The examples above are only some of the possibilities, which are examined more in depth in the Birra in Tavola project, available at www.birraintavola.it Cheers!
102
Limoncello, a Campanian jewel by Caterina Vianello
Italy is the home of the beautiful and the good, and we must strive to defend, enhance and promote our extraordinary agricultural and culinary gems across the world
Iâ&#x20AC;&#x160;
ts colour is reminiscent of sunlight, its scent and aroma are powerful, and its flavour, sweet at first, entices the palate with a final kick. Limoncello is one of the most loved liqueurs, the symbol of a region, and has inspired endless imitations both nationally and internationally. Although its ingredients are only four and the recipe is simple, pinpointing its origins and provenance is not so straightforward. In fact, three places lay a claim on its origins, all within a radius of a few kilometres: Sorrento, Amalfi, and Capri. The limoncello of Sorrento is the one with the PGI certification: tradition has it that in the early 20th century, noble Sorrento families would offer it to
illustrious guests. According to product specifications, it must be prepared with only four ingredients: the peels of PGI Sorrento lemons (at least 250g of whole lemons for every litre of alcohol), used to prepare an infusion; sugar, filtered water and rectified spirit. It is produced only in the area between Vico Equense and Massa Lubrense and on the island of Capri, and it is inextricably tied to lemons, a symbol of the Amalfi coast and the key to its deliciousness. It is made with lemons from Massa Lubrense, which are oval-shaped, have a smooth peel and are very juicy, or those from Sorrento, which are elliptical and symmetrical, medium-large, citrine yellow, and have a thick peel that slowly releases the rich essential oils into the syrup and the alcohol.
103
Lemons are washed in hot water and brushed to clean them from any residual pesticides, then they are peeled and the peels are steeped in alcohol for about 15 days (or up to a month). The peels will slowly release aroma and colour into the alcohol, which can then be blended with the water and sugar syrup. The infusion will rest for another month (or two), after which it will be filtered into the bottles, and the peels discarded.
initially called "limonillo", it soon became a daily ritual Limoncello is stored in the freezer and is traditionally served cold in small glasses; the heat from the hands allows the aroma of the lemons to waft and slowly entice the palate. It is a convivial liqueur, a social ritual to end the meal; in Capri (another place that claims to be its provenance) in the early 20th century it was equated with high society. Vincenza Canale, owner of Pensione Mariantonia in Anacapri, in the early 1800s started offering the liqueur to her guests (initially called "limonillo"), and it soon became a daily ritual, enjoyed at sunset, as a way to end the day with elegance and taste. In 1988, Vincenza's family, who continue to make limoncello according to the ancient recipe, were the first to register the Limoncello di Capri trademark, popularising the liqueur far beyond the island. Although the liqueur is a symbol of high society, according to tradition (or, rather, myth) it has humble, religious origins. Fishermen would drink it to warm themselves up before setting off in the early morning, while monks -- particularly those at the Certosa of San Giacomo in Capri, who loved it especially -- are responsible for its diffusion.
104
When choosing the original product, given its deliciousness, our advice is to not just drink it iced at the end of a meal, but to enhance its refreshing qualities by mixing it with tonic water, or blending it into a long drink with Champagne or Prosecco. While it is excellent with ice-cream and fruit, it also lends itself perfectly to the preparation of sweets and desserts. Finally, if you're planning a visit to the Amalfi coast, below are some locations where you can taste original limoncello.
enhance its refreshing qualities by mixing it with tonic water, or blending it into a long drink with Champagne or Prosecco.
LIMONCELLO DI CAPRI
LIQUORIFICIO CARLO MANSI
AZIENDA AGRICOLA IL CONVENTO
This is the company of the descendents of Vincenza Canale. In 2016 they opened the new headquarters in Meta, on the only access road to the Sorrento Peninsula, in a panoramic location overlooking the Gulf of Sorrento. There, you can watch every step of liqueur production, which remains their flagship product.
This liqueur distillery was founded in 1991 by Carlo Mansi, ice-cream maker, and it is right in the centre of Minori. It is a family business, and every year they produce only a thousand bottles, individually numbered and labelled with handmade Amalfi paper.
Located in Massa Lubrense, the company belongs to the Pollio family, who have been lemon growers for three generations. Try the limoncello-flavored babĂ , the company's badge of honour.
108
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
In Naples, gold is black: let's talk about coffee By Marisa Cammarano
The plant is native to Ethiopia and spread first in the Arabic Peninsula and then in Turkey. The European city of Vienna loved this black drink so much that at the end of the seventeenth century it devoted the Kaffeehäuser, the city’s luxurious cafés, to it. In Naples, coffee became popular thanks to Maria Carolina of Austria, the daughter of Maria Theresa, who married King Ferdinand IV of Naples in 1768. The young queen wanted to introduce Viennese customs and traditions to the court and encourage the use of coffee. The drink, brought over by Venetian merchants, had been known for a while in Naples, but because of its blackness it was thought to bring bad luck; for this reason, it had not become popular. Legend has it that in 1771, at the Royal
T
h e wo r d co f fe e co m e s fr o m th e A rab ic q ah wa, wh ich b e cam e k ah ve in Tu rke y, an d fr o m th e r e it sp r e ad to Eu r o pe .
Palace of Caserta, a ball was organised where coffee was served by servants that probably were the first baristas, with a white coat and hat: the first Coffee of the Kingdom of Naples was born. In addition to this black-coloured drink, Maria Carolina also brought to Naples kipferls (croissant): the inspired combination of coffee and croissant combination was suggested to her by her sister Marie Antoinette of France. From this moment on, it was Naples that excelled in coffee-making, thanks to a special roast that gave the beans a rich flavour. This special roast, after a few days of rest, enhances the essential oils and improves the extraction of the aromas. Then, the cocumella (the Neapolitan coffee pot invented by Frenchman Morize in 1819) arrived in
109
Neapolitan homes, introducing the drink in popular culture. The cocumella alternated the Turkish decoction (boiling) method to the Venetian infusion method with a double-filter system. In 1900, the “espresso machine” was adopted, which was complex to operate; but Neapolitan people soon mastered it, creating the Neapolitan espresso. In time, Naples’ coffeehouses became important cultural centres for intellectuals, and reached their peak popularity in 1800; during this century, countless cafés opened on via Toledo (one of the most famous historic streets in the heart of the city). In the early nineteenth century the laneways of Naples became home to coffee hawkers, who travelled the city from one end to the other with a jug of coffee and one of milk, and a basket with cups and sugar, to offer a quick breakfast to busy Neapolitans. Today, hawkers are no longer there, but coffee remains a “sacred” rite for all Neapolitans, as it was two centuries ago. Coffee in Naples is a veritable religion. To appreciate its flavour, intense aroma and creaminess, it must be drunk from a white, thick, warmed ceramic cup. In Naples, coffee isn’t just a drink to have after meals, or to drink in the morning to feel energised, or to have a chat with friends. No: coffee in Naples is a true ritual, the smell of home, a peacemaker, a breath of fresh air,
something that should always be in the pantry. To refuse a coffee offered in a Neapolitan home is almost an insult, because for Neapolitans offering coffee to guests is a sign of courtesy; and those passing through the city cannot avoid stopping for “na tazzulella ‘e cafè” (a little cup of coffee), as sung by the great Pino Daniele. Moreover, coffee is the subject of numerous rituals and anecdotes in Naples. For example, the rule is to drink coffee “with the 5C” (from the expression “Comme Ca**o Coce Chistu Café”); in other words, “bloody hot”! A more heart-warming, rather than mouth-watering, custom from the past is that of the paid coffee, according to which locals would pre-pay for a coffee for someone who couldn’t afford it. As it often happens in Neapolitan language, object and physical states end up taking on a metaphorical meaning. “Let's get a coffee” is a way to say “let's catch up, spend some time together”. “We must get a coffee”, on the other hand, means that there is something to be discussed, to explain, to sort out. “A coffee wouldn't go astray” indicates the need to take a break from something challenging, have a break from work. Coffee is also the first contact in any type of relationship, the moment when we study each other, exchange opinions, show ourselves to one another. In fact, you may hear: “I wouldn't even have a coffee with that one”, or “Never again, not even a coffee”. Another major difference between Naples and the rest of Italy is that you’re always served coffee with water, usually sparkling. This is expected, a given; you don’t have to ask for it – not even if you’re in the busiest café in Naples at peak hour. Water is there for two reasons and should be drunk before the coffee: the first is for taste, as it cleanses the palate and prepares it; the second is for health, because diluting coffee is always a good practice for the digestive system. This custom, too, is very difficult to find outside Naples, and in some Northern areas you may even be charged for a half-glass of water.
110
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
The Italian leader food machinery company
Tecnodom S.p.A. Via Isonzo, n. 5 - 35010 Vigodarzere (Padova) - Italy Tel.: +39 049 8874215 Fax: +39 049 8870507 E-mail: info@tecnodomspa.com www.tecnodomspa.com
Tecnodom S.p.A. is an Italian company producing food machinery with over thirty years of experience and know-how. The experience in the sectors of catering, large distribution, bakery and confectionery has led the company to a significant technical improvement and to an excellent offer for their customer in accordance with the latest regulations and research on the preparation, maintenance, blast freezing, cooking and display of any type of food. Tecnodom provides all the necessary equipment developing technical aspects that only those who know the whole food process thoroughly can enhance and optimize. Tecnodom® products are more and more requested in the bakery sector because the user is aware of their excellent performance, ease of use, cleaning and maintenance combined with the Italian design and quality. Moreover, the company can count on a highly qualified technical and sales department and, above all, on the family that has been running the company since the beginning of its activity. All products for the food preservation allow to store and maintain raw materials in a professional environment, avoiding sudden changes in temperature deriving from opening and closing the doors of the refrigerators many times a day like it happens in labs and professional kitchens. Thanks to an ongoing research, Tecnodom® has developed an international patent called DOMSYSTEM® that completely revolutionizes the internal set-up system for vertical and horizontal displays. The horizontal serveover displays are available in different sizes and styles, and not only guarantee highest level of maintenance, but are also in line with the strictest food safety regulations. Today, dough preparation can rely on
water coolers, the easiest way to control the temperature of the dough. These tools are essential to maintain the organoleptic properties of gluten, contributing to high quality standards of the finished product. Blast freezing has become a necessary process for many food service sectors. It is an important prerogative to avoid bacteria proliferation in food and to better organize the production processes. This process, carried out by the new blast freezer called ATTILA®, allows products such as leavened dough to be “frozen” into micro-crystals, maintaining its molecular structure and properties. The cooking process is carried out by the lines called NERONE®, which is also suitable for the regeneration of foods through steam. Tecnodom® ovens are designed to reduce food preparation times while maintaining the consistency of every part of the cooking process. The regeneration of frozen products allows considerable economic savings as well as being a process that Tecnodom® knows very well since it’s the result of a great number of tests carried out in their laboratories. For Tecnodom® food preparation can be considered complete only when the display of the finished products is at the same level of its production and enhances its quality. The lines of refrigerated and heated displays are available in both vertical and horizontal units, and Tecnodom® put them on the market after having tested them in laboratory in the most adverse climatic conditions, obtaining excellent results and important awards. All Tecnodom® products are entirely designed and manufactured in Italy.
111
112
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Description and varieties of coffee
The coffee plant is an evergreen tree belonging to the Rubiaceae family. It can reach up to 12 m in height, but it’s kept shorter (around 3 m) to facilitate harvesting. There are around 60 existing varieties of coffee but only 25 produce fruits with any commercial value. Among these there are 4 types of coffee used to make the drink:
1.
Coffea Arabica L., the best-known variety (it comprises 3/4 of world production), is more commonly known as Arabica; the most famous type is the Mocha coffee bean. Native of the Arabian Peninsula, today this variety is grown both there and in other Central and South American countries in mountain soil, rich in minerals (the higher the elevation, the better the organoleptic qualities of the roasted bean);
Coffee production
There are two methods to process coffee cherries and extract green coffee beans:
•
wet processing, when coffee cherries are deprived of the pulp, washed, and the seeds dried and hulled to release the bean;
•
dry processing, when the fruit is dried whole in the sun for up to 20 days. When skin, pulp and seeds are dry, hulling machines are employed.
At the end of both wet and dry processing cherries have been turned into green coffee and are classified based on shape and size.
2.
Coffea Canephora Pierre ex Froehner, known as Robusta, a coffee variety that is very popular because the plant, as the name suggests, is very resistant to diseases and can be grown in the plains. It is native to Congo but today it is grown in several countries;
3.
the Liberica coffee plant, grown especially in Liberia and the Ivory Coast. The seeds are large and resistant to parasites. Its quality is inferior to that of Arabica and Robusta, even if the beans are very fragrant;
4.
the Excelsa, which grows everywhere and is very hardy; it has a high yield and tastes similar to Arabica.
Subsequently, beans are roasted for 15 minutes by way of hot air flows (240 °C). During roasting, beans turn into light grains with a dark brown colour, and during these crucial 15 minutes, about 800 of the volatile substances that create the flavour and aroma of roasted coffee are released. Brown pigments (melanoidins) are also released, which are generally not absorbed by the intestine; their structure and role are currently the focus of significant research due to their antioxidant action.
Prodotti alimentari di Alta qualità distribuiti da più di trent’anni alle migliori aziende del settore sono la garanzia della competenza e dell’assoluta serietà dell’azienda Sanfelici. Rispettando i più elevati standard qualitativi l’azienda affida la produzione dei suoi prodotti a realtà specializzate in grado di selezionare e controllare personalmente le materie prime, di altissima qualità, che verranno trasformate in ottimi prodotti gastronomici distribuiti da Sanfelici direttamente a ristoranti, bar, trattorie, pizzerie, osterie. Più di tremila contatti in continua crescita sottolineano la professionalità e la puntualità di una ditta che con un ottimo rapporto qualità/prezzo cerca di promuovere giornalmente la cultura del food & beverage nel mondo. Accurata selezione e continua ricerca sono le parole chiave per il successo di Sanfelici.
Le nostre quattro linee:
Sede operativa e Showroom Via Tadesa, 2/A San Fermo di Piubega 46040 (MN) T: 0376 655737 - F 0376 655014 - www.sanfelici.it
114
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
Coffee properties
C
offee contains hu ndr e d s o f sub stan ce s, an d it s ch em ical characte rist ics var y acco r d in g to th e plan t s peci es , pl ace of growth an d t y p e o f p r o ce ssin g , as we l l a s th e r oasting, which m ake s th e g r e e n b e an s r e ad y to be g r o und and u se d to pre par e th e d r in k .
Caffeine, although it represents only 1.3 to 2.4% of raw coffee material, is the bestknown substance and it has many known pharmacological properties; it is still being researched, even a long time after its discovery. It’s typical of coffee but it’s not exclusive to it, since it can be found in numerous plants such as cocoa beans, tea leaves, guarana berries and kola nuts, albeit in lower concentrations. Due to the presence of caffeine, coffee is a nervine food, that is, one that can stimulate the nervous system. Coffee contains smaller quantities of methylxanthines, alkaloid substances such as 1.3 dimethylxanthine (known as “theophylline”, predominantly contained in tea) and 3.7 dimethylxanthine (known as “theobromine”, predominantly contained in chocolate). Coffee is a drink surprisingly rich in antioxidants; in fact, it contains hundreds of biologically active molecules, among which are phenolic compounds (chlorogenic, caffeic, ferulic and p-coumaric acids) and melanoidins, which have a significant anti-oxidant action. Moreover, it is rich in methylxanthines such as caffeine, which have a stimulating action on the central nervous system; they’re a mild stimulant that
improves attention and alertness. As for the cardiovascular system, caffeine – in addition to having direct effects on heart contractions – has been associated with a number of risk factors for cardiovascular disease. Among these, caffeine has been mainly associated with increased blood pressure. As for the gastrointestinal tract, caffeine increases secretion of hydrochloric acid and pepsin in the stomach. For this reason, caffeine is not indicated for people with gastritis and ulcers. Caffeine, however, doesn’t cause any reflux, gastritis or ulcers in healthy people. Caffeine has a thermogenic action in humans, increasing energy expenditure by about 100 Kcal. This action persists with habitual consumption of coffee, albeit more mildly. If in addition to the thermogenic effect we consider caffeine’s ability to stimulate and improve the utilisation of energy from lipid substrates (body fat) for physical work, it’s clear that caffeine, in moderate doses, can contribute to “maintaining” body weight and using the body's energy sources more efficiently. Of course, it cannot substitute a healthy diet, exercise and healthy lifestyle. There is significant scientific evidence that not only is coffee not harmful (ex-
MOLINO PASINI THE ART OF FLOUR / L’ARTE DELLA FARINA
MOLINO PASINI, FARINA DEL MIO SACCO AND LA TUA FARINA PRODUCT LINES
Molino Pasini has been in the milling business for more than eighty years. For three generations, we’ve been producing flours for people demanding perfection from their flour. Combining artisan expertise with the most advanced analysis and research technologies, painstaking attention to quality is without a doubt the distinguishing trait of our production philosophy. Today, Molino Pasini strikes a perfect balance between continuity with the past and evolution into the future. While still maintaining strong ties to tradition and to the old-fashioned care with which an artisan product is crafted, we’re great advocates of innovation in production processes and are committed to continuing our pursuit of research and development. Bringing the quality of the past into the future. You can find Molino Pasini products all over the globe thanks to a widespread network of exclusive hand-picked distributors.
MOLINO PASINI Bread line A combination of skilful blending and painstaking milling of the grain has resulted in the most comprehensive range of high-quality bread flours currently on the market. Molino Pasini leads the field in quality biga and long-rise flours.
One of our company’s many goals is to provide customers with the highest level of food safety, to which various international certifications - achieved with the highest possible scores attest: BRC-IFS, UNI EN ISO 22000 2005, UNI EN ISO 22000: FSSC, HACCP, KOSHER and organic certification. In addition, an extremely modern and highly efficient analysis laboratory means continuous research and development efforts are channelled into products worthy of the foremost professionals. Our company vision, which is focused on unbeatable product quality, has culminated in the Molino Pasini Workshop: a centre where theoretical and practical training is divided into different offerings for businesses and professionals. Research, growth, sharing and innovation are keywords on which the Molino Pasini quality training solution is founded.
Primitiva line Rich in fibre, proteins and mineral salts, it’s perfect if you’re looking for unique, unmistakable flavour With its impressive elasticity and easy digestibility, this flour is the result of a whole-grain milling process. Organic line Respecting and protecting the environment are two of Molino Pasini’s prime concerns, which is why we decided to create our own line of organic flours. Flours and semolinas made from organic grain sourced from businesses that offer the assurance of certification by the highest accredited institutes. Granozero line Line of gluten-free flours made with input from leading experts in the gluten-free field, for consumers who either need or want to cut gluten out of their diet. Mixes and improvers An extensive range of mixes for preparing different tasting innovative products in no time at all, catering to your every need.
MOLINO PASINI VIA BUSCOLDO 27/BIS 46010 CESOLE MANTOVA – IT T +39 0376 969015 F +39 0376 969274 WWW.MOLINOPASINI.COM INFO@MOLINOPASINI.COM
Gnocchi mixes A comprehensive professional line of gnocchi mixes, suitable for both artisan and industrial processes. FARINA DEL MIO SACCO Pizzeria line A line of flours that’s ideal for making crisp, delicioussmelling traditional pizzas, pizzas sold by the slice and focaccia flat bread. The line also includes an extensive range of mixes. Fresh pasta line The highlight of our range of flours designed specifically for use in pasta factories is our signature product, Pasta d’Oro®, a unique, unrivalled flour for making fresh pasta. Pastry line Working with some of the best master pastry chefs, Molino Pasini has come up with a line of flours specifically developed for making pastries and sweet goods. The flours are well balanced and consistent and offer great elasticity. A flour for every need. NEW LINE ‘LA TUA FARINA’ The brand new 1–kilo bags La tua Farina – Linea Retail Molino Pasini, are the technical flours studied and used by the most important chefs and pastry chefs, now available for amateur chefs. The line consists of 12 products specifically developed to make fresh pasta, pastries, pizzas and breads. Our Primitiva line is now also available in 1kg bags: type 1, type 2 and wholemeal flour as well as one type of 100% organic flour
116
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
cept in subject with specific pathologies), but also that, if consumed in moderate doses, it can actually be beneficial, as it is a good source of antioxidants. The maximum recommended quantity of caffeine is around 2-3 mg/day per kg of body weight, and a cup of espresso contains between 40 and 80 mg of caffeine. Therefore, 3-5 cups a day is the ideal amount for the body to be able to metabolise caffeine in the course of a day, without having â&#x20AC;&#x153;pharmacological dose effectsâ&#x20AC;?.
Contraindications Caffeine is not recommended to people sensitive to it. Moreover, caffeine can cause headache, vomiting, nausea, insomnia, jitteriness, hyperstimulation, delirium, increased heartrate, and heart palpitations.
the harmony of good taste!
CONCERTO 5
SINFONIA 2 ORCHESTRA 10
RAVIOMATIC
SIRPASTA XP
www.sirman.com
118
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
MASSIMO BOTTURA AND OSTERIA FRANCESCANA by editorial staff
119 Mediterranean Sole
M
assimo Bottura opened Osteria Francescana in Modena in 1995. An innovator and restaurateur for over twenty years, Bottura has consolidated his reputation as one of the world’s most creative culinary figures. His internationally renowned three Michelin star restaurant, Osteria Francescana, was named number 1 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2016 and for the second time in 2018. In 1986 Massimo Bottura departed on his life’s journey when he bought Trattoria del Campazzo on the outskirts of Modena. Working alongside the rezdora Lidia Cristoni and an apprenticeship with French chef Georges Coigny, he built his culinary foundation on a combination of regional Italian cooking and classical French training.
IN
1994 Bottura sold Campazzo and departed for Montecarlo to work with Alain Ducasse at Louis XV. This experience proved in valuable for the chef and lead to opening Osteria Francescana a year later in his hometown of Modena. Several years later, Bottura had another life changing experience with Ferran Adria at El Bulli during the summer of 2000. Bottura’s kitchen walks a thin line between tradition and innovation. His dishes explore the deep roots of the Italian kitchen while making references to history, art and philosophy. In 2002 Bottura received his first Michelin star followed by the second in 2006. Among numerous awards, he received the prestigious “Grand Prix de l’Art” from the International Culinary Academy in Paris in 2011 and a confirmation of a life long ambition with the third Michelin star. Osteria Francescana has been ranked at the top of the Italian food guides for the past five years.
Oops! I dropped the lemon tart
120
pizza e pasta italiana international
M
2019
assimo Bottura has been also recognized for his commitment against food waste and social isolation, calling for social responsibility among the culinary community. During Expo 2015, the chef created an off-site Expo project called the Refettorio Ambrosiano, a community kitchen in which chefs from around the world joined him to transform food surplus from the exhibition into healthy meals for those in need. As a consequence of the success of the project, Massimo founded the non-profit organization Food for Soul together with his wife Lara Gilmore. Since then, Food for Soul has established other five projects: Refettorio Gastromotiva in Rio de Janeiro, Refettorio Felix in London, Social Tables in Modena and Bologna, and most recently, Refettorio Paris.
The Crunchy part of the lasagna
W
hile Osteria Francescana invites diners on an iconoclastic re-imagining of the Italian kitchen, Botturaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second restaurant, Franceschetta58, is a contemporary osteria that features exceptional ingredients served in a convivial atmosphere. In addition to his restaurants, Massimo created the Villa Manodori product line of award winning balsamic vinegars and olive oils twenty years ago. Villa Manodori condiments are product of lifetime obsession with quality ingredients. Today the line products can be purchased at the finest gourmet markets around the world. The energetic and ever curious chef resides in his beloved hometown of Modena located in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy with his wife, Lara Gilmore, and their two children, Alexa and Charlie.
In the countryside
laNapoletana: a genuine flour, the perfect flour to make pizza like a real Neapolitan pizza chef! Try it for a perfectly developed thick and golden crust and a soft, elastic and pliable dough. Choose it to enhance the flavour of your ingredients: tomatoes, mozzarella, olive oil.
122
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
ABOUT OSTERIA FRANCESCANA
O
steria Francescana is situated in a century-old osteria that has been transformed over the past 22 years into a laboratory of culture, art and design. Storytelling enriches the dining experience and the kitchen makes references to art, music and history to provoke emotion, memory and taste. Guests at the restaurant’s 12 tables are able to choose from the à la Carte menu or from two distinct tasting menus. Art has had a fundamental role in the evolution of the kitchen, not only from an aesthetic point of view but more importantly a conceptual one. Over the years, the restaurant has been a showcase for a collection of contemporary art including paintings, photographs and sculptures from Italian and international artists all of which have helped to define the restaurant’s iconoclastic style and poetic interpretations. The most recent additions to the collection are a sculpture of a security guard named “Frankie” by American artist Duane Hanson and a circular black abstract painting by Mexican artist Bosco Sodi. While Osteria Francescana invites diners on an iconoclastic re-imagining of theItalian kitchen, Bottura’s second restaurant, Franceschetta58, is a contemporary osteria that features exceptional ingredients served in a convivial atmosphere.
Concurrent Event: 2019 Pizza & Pasta Arena
Organizer: Ubm Sinoexpo Limited Tel:86 21 3339 2242 (Mr.Alex Ni)
E-mail:Alex.Ni@ubmsinoexpo.com
Scan the QR code, Pre-registration
FIVE DAYS THAT PUSH YOUR BUSINESS FORWARD BY YEARS. WINNING BUSINESS. INTERNORGA 2019. EXPLORE NEW MARKETS. MEET KEY PLAYERS. GET INSPIRED. KITCHEN TECHNOLOGY • KITCHEN EQUIPMENT FURNITURE, INTERIOR AND DESIGN DIGITAL COMMUNICATION • FOOD AND BEVERAGES INNOVATIVE. INSPIRING. INTERNATIONAL. EUROPE’S LEADING TRADE SHOW FOR FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY. HAMBURG, GERMANY | 15 TO 19 MARCH 2019
126
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
TECHNICAL SPONSORS
certificato n. it11/0050
Progettazione ed erogazione corsi di formazione per pizzaioli
S
cuola Italiana Pizzaioli was born in the late 80s. Since the beginning the school was focused on teaching one of the most beautiful artisanal jobs, combining a technical and scientific approach with the continue research of the most modern technologies and the passion for working with the dough. Our story starts in Caorle, in the municipality of Venice, where the national headquarter can still be found at present. Starting from there, we trained thousands of pizza makers in our Italian venues and in several foreign countries: France, Poland, Russia, Brasil, China. And this is not it!
re in the pictu pizzirri, nani, Leo S ig Tony Gem ertuzzo and Graziano B ccia Michele Cro
CONTACTS Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) tel. 0039 (0)421-83.148 fax. 0039 (0)421-83.178 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
HOW IT WORKS ABROAD? Since the beginning, our goal was to build a network of experts able to develop and spread our scientific approach of making pizza. So we did it, first in Italy (where during the last 30 years we have selected a group of top pizza chefs and opened several offices of the school), then abroad (Usa, Brasil, Russia, Poland, Germany, France..) always using the same business model. Each school is held by an instructor pizza chef reffered as “Master Istruttore”. Abroad we transfer school know – how through the Franchising Agreement, which is the best and the indispensable way for successfully teaching our method. Only few pizza makers trained during a specific course held at the italian national head office of the school will be promoted as “Master Istruttore with Percorso Formativo Certificato (Master Instructor Upon Certified Training)”, guarantee of quality standards and professionalism of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli.
127 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI NEW OPENING IN ARGENTINA
re in the pictu h Javier ertuzzo wit Graziano B ggina Antonio Pu Labakè and
NEWS FROM U.S.A. - CHICAGO The Chicago school saw its opening one year ago, under the name of North American Pizza & Culinary Academy. The location is devoted to pizza and cooking training. One year later, what is the picture?
Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli and 5 Stagioni Academy has taken another important step of new headquarters in Latin America. The latest opening of a Branch in Buenos Aires, Argentina, which will allow an important coverage of a part of Latin America. The location is already devoted to pizza and cooking training, under the well known name of Appyce, “Asociaciación de Propietarios de Pizzeriás y Casas de Empanadas” ”, the most important Latin American School in Argentina which organizes professional careers in the Pizza and Empanadas, Cooking, Pastry, Baking, Pasta and Sauces areas. In November 2018 Javier Labakè and Diego Davila, respectively Director and Technical Director of Appyce, obtained with success the Master Instructor Upon Certified Training Course in the Headquarter located in Italy, close to Venice.
NEWS FROM BRAZIL
re in the pictu i and rr Leo Spizzi none n Anthony Ia
JUST A FEW DATES - School opening date: July, 2018 - Approximate number of total classes in 2018: 60 - Total number of students (professional and amateur courses): 800 - Lots of professional pizza courses, like: Professional Base Pizzaiolo Certification Course Neapolitan Pizza, Pizza Romana: Teglia & Pala, Gluten free Pizza, Chicago Pizza, New York Pizza, Detroit Pizza, Pizza & Pairings. - Many Cooking classes organized, also exploring the cuisine of many countries, like Spain, France, China, Korea, Italy, Mexico Collaboration. - Many cooperations with the most prominent pizza industry international companies, scheduling for them and their customers, demos, tastings and much more.
2016 saw the opening of 5 Stagioni Academy – Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, in Brazil. Under the careful guidance of Henrique Cavazotti, more than 400 students have been trained by the Master Instructor Mario Tacconi and Pedro Pernambuco. All the courses take place in real pizza shop, this helps students see how pizza is made for real. More recently, a lot of attention is being paied towards Italian food products and it is reinforced by the Italian Cuisine in World Week. This event has many venues in the world and aims at promoting abroad the Italian Food Culture. In 2018, the event held at the Consulate in Curitiba had the pizza theme. 5 Stagioni Academy and Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli were part of this venue, with Italian Pizza Workshops both for professionals and pizza amateurs. Under the attentive guidance of Mario Tacconi, the partecipants have had the chance to try to make pizza, using the exclusive Made in Italy products.
128
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019 TECHNICAL SPONSORS
certificato n. it11/0050
Progettazione ed erogazione corsi di formazione per pizzaioli
THE PASSION FOR PIZZA The passion for making a good pizza and being able to transmit it to others is the ground for the school’s work, which pushes to experiment, to know, to learn and to spread out what we know to all those who wish to learn the profession of pizza maker. Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli was among the first school to develop three different types of course - basic, specialization and advanced courses - along side with the practical part there is also theory, a serious and professional approach to a job that for its complexity needs study, application and passion. Our lessons enable the future pizza-maker not only to make dough mixes on the bas-
SPECIALIZATION COURSES —
Specialization courses are dedicated to professionals who wish to develop processing techniques for the production, preparation, filling and baking of particular types of pizza. Those courses take place over one or two days.
es of the recipes given during the courses, but also to gain a knowledge of the different results that can be obtained on the basis of wished variations (for example the choice of different flour) or less (unexpected things that can happen every day, for example the weather change); situations that can happen during professional life. You can find us also in the most known food sector exhibitions both in Italy and abroad, because we strongly believe that meeting other cultures, especially whether in front of good food) makes us grow faster and makes us better. Passion, professional work, experience. That is what we trust.
NEAPOLITAN PIZZA — Neaples is the city where everything began. Scuola italiana Pizzaioli could not be lacking of a specific course about the very traditional way for pizza preparation. The course of Neapolitan Pizza guides the student through the learning path for obtaining the traditional pizza with the lovely “cornicione” (the crust) typical of Naples. Ac-
tually, several features distinguish the classical round pizza from the neapolitan recipe, from the use of dedicated flours to the choice of D.O.P. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, that is to say protected designation origin) topping ingredients. Moreover, proper working and gestural methods (as “the slapping”) and strict baking rules make the neapol-
itan pizza a specific and precise scienze. The original Neapolitan Pizza is an S.T.G. product (Specialità Tradizionale Garantita). It means that pizza has been prepared in full compliance with the procedural guidelines (registered by European Union in 2009) for getting the qualification of “traditional guaranteed speciality”.
129
BASIC COURSE —
ADVANCED COURSES
re in the pictu ertuzzo Graziano B
CLASSIC PIZZA The basic course is reserved for those who wish to learn the job of pizza maker, professionals and owners of restaurants, who want to learn and deepen the theoretical concepts and practical experience required to operate with success in the business of pizza. The course alternates hours devoted to theory, necessary for deeply understanding why you get certain results rather than others, with hours devoted to manual and gestural practice. The path will lead the student toward several steps in order to fully prepare them to the job. Among others, we focus the course on the choice of different types of cereals, flour (and how to choose
PIZZA IN PALA — The “Pizza in Pala” (pala is the long wood board needed for bake it), also known as the “Pizza alla Romana”, is a typical product of roman bakeries, thin and crunchy. The mix is a very hydrated dough; apparently simple, but with lots of secrets to take in consideration that can dramatically influence the quality, aesthetics and taste personality of the final product.
among them the best ingredients to catch your goals), the yeast, leavening techniques, the ingredients, the topping and much more. Obviously, we teach how to make, portionate and save the dough; how to spread dough balls, fill them and cook a real pizza! We dedicate several sessions teaching how to use professional tools as ovens, mixers, shock freezers. The intensive course takes place over five days, from Monday to Friday, for 40 hours in total. This includes 10 hours of theory and 30 hours of practice.
PIZZA IN TEGLIA —
The “Pizza in Teglia” (pan pizza) is thick and soft. This pizza has a secret which is what allows to get a good growth in height maintaining, however, lightness. The perfect combination of these perspectives makes the difference between a dramatic success and an epic fail.
GLUTEN FREE —
In this course we teach how to organize the work plan and what procedures adopt to serve the celiac customer and safely obtain a dough with excellent performance and fragrant as the traditional pizza. We study different gluten free mixes and technical solutions for getting a uniform and easyto-work dough mix.
Advanced Courses are reserved to expert pizza makers, restaurateurs and food industry professionals who want to expand their knowledge in food, nutrition and management, gaining new skills and learning best technical practices. Advanced courses are designed to study every perspective of “pizza” as business concept. That is to say that Advanced Course program deals with both technical in-depht analysis (haute cuisine for topping preparation, nutritiononal science, food technology, bread-macking techniques) and management seminars (Food Cost Analysis, Profit and Loss Analysis, Food Social Media Marketing). For this reason, Advanced Courses are held by external teachers, top specialists in their own scientific or technical field.
SOURDOUGH —
Starting from what we call “la madre” we will explain the techniques of refreshing, conservation and how to use the sourdough in your pizza mix in the best way.
VISIT
izzaioli.it
aitalianap
www.scuol
130
pizza e pasta italiana international
2019
CONTACTS Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) tel. 0039 (0)421-83.148 fax. 0039 (0)421-83.178
certificato n. it11/0050
Progettazione ed erogazione corsi di formazione per pizzaioli
Belgium Charleroi
France
Poland Poznan
Paris, Chamonix
Russia Moscow
Canada Toronto
China
USA
Beijing, Jinan, Shanghai
San Francisco, Chicago
Brasil Curitiba
Australia
Argentina Buenos Aires
ITALY
Germany Frankfurt
GRAZIANO
B E R T U Z ZO
arter in Headqu
Ma
info
-83.148 0039 (0) 421
â&#x20AC;&#x201D; VENICE
(CAORLE)
Melbourne, Perth, Margareth River
30 Master Instructor
info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
your pizza hub
We are not just manufacturers of PIZZA OVENS & EQUIPMENT but also provide ALL THE KNOW-HOW needed to make YOUR PIZZA along with a layout and design service for your premises. OEM ALI S.p.A. Viale Lombardia, 33 - Bozzolo (MN) - T +39 0376 910511 F +39 0376 920754 info@oemali.com - www.oemali.com