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flour

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EDITORIAL

We have experienced quite a problematic year due to the pandemic that has put a stop to a lot of activities, as well as the well-established annual appointments in sector fairs and gastronomic meetings. And it will be like this for a while, but we can already see the light at the end of the tunnel, above all thanks to the vaccines that should eliminate the awful virus that has affected all of humanity.

Keep with going pondered optimism BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

Even though these times are hard, the publisher Pizza New SpA has not slowed down its work in the world of restaurants and pizza, both in Italy and abroad and, with the magazine Pizza e Pasta Italiana, it has continued to inform and train the many operators of the sector and to connect the world of agri-food and the food industry to restaurants and pizzerias, keeping up to date on the latest equipment, agrifood products, operating techniques and consumer trends, considered essential for the entire sector so it always moves with the changing times. Pizza e Pasta Italiana is, therefore, a medium that offers an ear to the operators and reports what is new and useful in the catering sector, even replacing, in recent months, the usual work of sector fairs. And now, as we are approaching the end of this tough time, we look to the future with confidence and optimism, in the belief that we will be able to make up for the time we have unfortunately lost, as we’re stronger following the difficult time we have all experienced.

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SUMMARY

ARTICLES

RECIPES

p.6

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p.18

Graziano Bertuzzo

p.30

Gabriele Bonci

Flours

CHARACTERISTICS AND USES IN THE ART OF BAKING DR. MARINA CARCEA

p.22

Do you know which yeast for pizza?

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

p.34

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The Neapolitan Pizza BY DR PAOLO MASI, DR ANNALISA ROMANO

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Leavening and maturation TWO KEY PROCESSES BY EDITORIAL STAFF

p.40

Franco Pepe

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Pizza in Rome BY ANTONIO PADUANO

p.46

Tony Gemignani

p.50

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“Questions you would like to ask about gluten-free pizza” FRANCESCA LAGONIA ANSWERS

p.56

Federico De Silvestri

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1. Flours/ characteristics and uses in the art of baking

BY DR. MARINA CARCEA — Technology Director Council for Agricultural Research and Economics (CREA) - Research Centre for Food and Nutrition

The seeds or dried fruits of many starchy plant species are suitable to be ground into flour. The species belonging to the Graminaceae family, commonly known as cereals, represent the botanical group that has been used for this purpose by man all over the world since ancient times. Other groups such as legumes, chenopodiacee, polygonaceae, amarantaceae, lamiaceae, etc also lend themselves to this purpose. Cereals include wheat, rice, corn, oats, barley, millet, sorghum, rye, to name those most used in our latitudes. Buckwheat belongs to the Polygonaceae family, quinoa to the Chenopodiacee family, amaranth to the Amarantaceae family and chia to the Lamiaceae family: all these species also belong to the group of so-called pseudo-cereals. Legumes include lentils, chickpeas, beans, soy, etc. Flours can also be obtained from other parts of plants rich in starch such as tubers (potato, cassava, etc.) or nuts (chestnuts).

Soft wheat belongs to the Graminaceae family, genus Triticum, species aestivum L. and is cultivated all over the world in temperate areas. It is mainly used for the production of bread and baked goods and this means that it is traded between nations. Italy is an importer of both soft wheat and durum wheat but also of other cereals and other species such as quinoa and amaranth, typical of other climates. Another species of wheat widely used for human consumption, especially in the Mediterranean basin, is durum wheat. This also belongs to the genus Triticum, but the species durum Desf. Durum wheat is the raw material of choice for the production of dry pasta, a typical product of the Italian food tradition, but also of couscous or bulgur. Durum wheat flours are also traditionally used for the production of bread. The so-called spelts (einkorn, emmer and spelt) also belong to the genus Triticum.

AMONG THE CEREALS, THE MOST WIDELY USED TYPE IN THE WORLD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF FLOUR IS UNDOUBTEDLY WHEAT, IN PARTICULAR SOFT WHEAT.

FROM THE POINT OF VIEW OF ITS COMPOSITION, THE GRAIN OF CEREALS IS CHARACTERISED BY A HIGH CONTENT OF CARBOHYDRATES,

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mainly complex carbohydrates such as starch, which is the main component (between 60 and 80%), a moderate content of proteins, ranging from 7 to 17% depending on the type and variety, a low fat content mainly located in the germ. There are also fibres, mineral elements, water-soluble vitamins (B group in particular) and fat-soluble vitamins and many other bioactive substances. Proteins are the most technologically relevant component, capable of making the difference regarding the possibility for flour to provide a cohesive, elastic and workable dough following the addition of water. Cereal proteins are conventionally divided into 4 different groups according to their solubility in different solvents. Two groups in particular, glutenins and gliadins are particularly interesting because, after the addition of water and the action of kneading, they join to form a viscoelastic protein mass which takes the name of gluten. Gluten therefore does not exist in the flour but is formed in the dough. Thanks to gluten, the dough is able to retain the gases that are formed during the fermentation processes and also to withstand the stress of extrusion and passage through the die in the case of dry pasta production: for this reason, the quantity and quality of gluten are important indices of wheat flours, that indicate their aptitude for bread making

1. FLOURS: CHARACTERISTICS AND USES IN THE ART OF BAKING

or pasta making. Not all cereals contain glutenins and gliadins and can therefore give gluten: gluten is formed in soft wheat flour, durum wheat, spelts, barley, rye, but is not formed in oats, rice and corn. Glutenins and gliadins, when present, make up the majority of cereal proteins (about 70%). The flours of pseudo-cereals, legumes or tubers, although containing proteins, cannot give origin to gluten.

Kernels of four different triticale strains showing variable degrees of shriveling

THE FRUIT OF CEREALS, COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS GRAIN, TAKES THE BOTANICAL NAME OF CARYOPSIS. HOW IS THE CARYOPSIS FORMED? The caryopsis has an ellipticalglobular shape and is made up of a series of external layers which are rich in fibres and minerals that will flow into the so-called bran during grinding and also by an inner area rich in starch, called amyliferous endosperm, which makes up most of the grain’s weight. Most of the cereal proteins are also found in the amyliferous endosperm. The embryo or germ, rich in lipids, is located in on the outside and is also removed during grinding, so remaining in the bran. In some cereals, the leaves that surround the grain (glumes and glumellae) do not open when the grain ripens as in the case of barley or rice and must be removed for the kernels to be consumed: this type of cereal is defined as "clothed" compared to naked cereals.

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The production of flour

IN ORDER TO BE USED IN FOOD PRODUCTS, THE GRAIN OF CEREALS AND IN PARTICULAR THAT OF WHEAT MUST BE REDUCED TO FLOUR THROUGH A PROCESS THAT IS EXCLUSIVELY PHYSICAL AND TAKES PLACE ESSENTIALLY IN 3 PHASES: CLEANING, CONDITIONING AND ACTUAL GRINDING. Cleaning is to remove foreign substances of both a vegetable and mineral nature (seeds of other plants, straw, stones, etc.). Conditioning consists in wetting the grains with pre-set amounts of water for pre-established times to facilitate the separation of the outermost layers of the kernel and its breaking. Grinding consists in breaking the kernels into particles. From the grinding and sifting of durum wheat, because of the hardness of the kernels, it is possible to obtain a flour which takes the name of semolina. Semolina is a sharp-edged granular product with a well-defined grain size, used for the production of dry pasta. In bread making, so-called re-milled semolina or durum wheat flour is mainly used.

BY DR. MARINA CARCEA

Since cereal grains do not have a homogeneous structure but are stratified, especially on the outside, and considering that the different layers have a different composition, by separating the grinding fractions that derive from the external parts from those that derive from the innermost parts, it is possible to obtain flours with different composition and therefore different qualities from a technological and nutritional point of view. The various flours may also have different colours and different denominations which, in Italy, are defined by law for wheat. From the point of view of the chemical composition, the different flours are characterised by their starch, protein, dietary fibre and mineral content. The various chemical compositions will also determine their different technological aptitudes. From a technological point of view, the distinction between naked or clothed cereals is important. Clothed cereals (first) have glumes and glumellae (siliceous leaves that protect the grain) strongly adhering to the grain that need to be removed with appropriate abrasion and hulling processes to make them edible: rice, oats, millet, spelt.

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This type of cereal is particularly suitable for the production of wholemeal flours. Naked cereals, on the other hand, such as soft and durum wheat, which have fragile glumes and glumellae that detach easily during threshing and leave the kernel free, are used both for the production of refined flours and wholemeal flours. Types of cereal other than wheat (maize, rice, etc.) and pseudo-cereals are used for the production of flours that have different technological characteristics from wheat, especially those flours which cannot give rise to the creation of gluten by adding water and kneading, due to the absence of certain protein fractions. These are particularly suitable for the production of so-called gluten-free products. Legume flours, that do not have proteins capable of forming gluten, are used in addition to cereal flours and in particular to soft wheat because, in addition to having a high protein content with interesting functional properties for the production of leavened products, they contain substances with emulsifying and antioxidant properties such as lecithin in soy. As for soy flour, for example, its addition

1. FLOURS: CHARACTERISTICS AND USES IN THE ART OF BAKING

improves the water absorption capacity in doughs and their workability, while in bread it improves the structure of the crumb. Different flours can then effectively contribute to the production of foods with different organoleptic and nutritional characteristics.

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Flour according to Italian law

The technological quality of wheat flour produced and traded in Italy is governed by some national laws, in particular law 580 of 1967 as amended by Presidential Decree 187 of 2001 which defines soft wheat flour intended for bread making as the product obtained by the grinding and consequent sifting of soft wheat, free from foreign substances and impurities.

BASED ON THE AFOREMENTIONED LEGISLATION, 5 DIFFERENT TYPES OF SOFT WHEAT FLOUR ARE DEFINED, SPECIFICALLY THE 00, 0, 1, 2 AND WHOLEMEAL TYPES. All types must have a maximum humidity of 14.50% and are distinguished from each other by the different ash content (maximum 0.55% of the dry matter for 00; 0.65% for 0; 0.80% for 1; 0.95% for 2; minimum 1.30 and maximum 1.70 for wholemeal) and in proteins (9% of dry matter for 00; 11% for 0; 12% for 1, 2 and wholemeal). The different ash content is an index of the quantity of fibre present in the flour from the outermost layers of the grain. The same laws similarly govern durum wheat flours intended for trade which are produced in the following types: semolina, granulated semolina, whole durum wheat semolina, durum wheat flour. Similarly to soft wheat

BY DR. MARINA CARCEA

flours, durum wheat flours must be placed on the market with a maximum humidity of 14.50%, the ashes must be at most 0.90 for the semolina, between 0.90 and 1.35 for the coarse semolina, between 1.40 and 1.80 for whole durum wheat semolina and between 1.36 and 1.70 for durum wheat flour (% of dry matter). The minimum protein content is set at 10.50% for semolina and 11.50% of the dry matter for the other types. The quantity of flour that is obtained from 100 kg of wheat is defined as the degree of sifting, the grinding yield or extraction rate. The higher the degree of sifting, the less refined and the darker the flour will be, due to the greater presence of bran parts coming from the outer layers of the kernel. The production of re-milled semolina and coarse semolina and durum wheat flour is allowed to be used exclusively for bread-making and the consumer. In wheat flours as described above, the addition of organic and inorganic substances of any nature as well as any treatment of the flours with physical or chemical agents is prohibited by law. The law specifies that the flours of cereals other than wheat, if mixed with wheat flours in any proportion, must be sold with the clear indication of the name of the cereal from which the flour

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1. FLOURS: CHARACTERISTICS AND USES IN THE ART OF BAKING

/ mixed with the wheat comes. The addition of wheat gluten to soft wheat flours is allowed both by mills and by companies that use flour. The addition of malted cereal flours, malt extracts and alpha-amylase and beta-amylase amylolytic enzymes (see below) is also allowed. We can say that flours have different technological qualities and it will therefore be necessary to use the flour with the appropriate functional properties in relation to both the food to be produced and the production technique. For example, in bread making, the use of fast mixers or long leavening times requires flours characterised by the presence of strong and tenacious gluten and the opposite for the production of unleavened biscuits, for example. A gluten or a strong flour have a great capacity to resist the stress of kneading and above all to retain carbon dioxide, the gas that forms during rising, in the dough.

THE STRENGTH OF THE FLOUR DEPENDS MAINLY ON THE QUANTITY AND QUALITY OF THE GLUTEN. SIMILARLY, A TOUGH GLUTEN OR FLOUR IS RESISTANT TO THE EXTENSION CAUSED BY THE MECHANICAL PROCESSING OF THE DOUGH OR BY GASES IN EXPANSION. THE PRESENCE OF FLOURS OTHER THAN WHEAT FLOUR IN THE DOUGH ALTERS ITS TECHNOLOGICAL PROPERTIES WITH DIFFERENT RESULTS FROM CASE TO CASE.

Some important qualitative parameters of flour HUMIDITY

Expresses the water content of a given sample. The weight loss (expressed in %) suffered by the product subjected to drying is measured. The product is dried at 130 °C for a time established according to the particle size.

ASH

It is the content of mineral substances of a flour and can be considered an index of its purity, i.e. of contamination by the outer layers of the grain in which the mineral substances are particularly abundant, while the endosperm (starch) contains only low levels. In Italy the ash rate of semolina and flour is set by law. The method is based on the incineration of the ground sample (wholemeal flour, semolina, flour, etc.) and takes place in a muffle furnace at 550 °C ± 10 or 900 °C ± 25.

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Some important qualitative parameters of flour PROTEIN CONTENT

The elementary determination of nitrogen is of fundamental importance in this sector and is one of the routine analyses in the marketing of wheat and its derivatives. The reference method for the analysis of basic nitrogen compounds is still the Kjeldhal method, based on the mineralisation of organic nitrogen and subsequent distillation, now achieved with semi-automatic equipment. The protein content is calculated starting from the total nitrogen multiplied by a conversion factor that varies depending on the type: in the case of wheat it is 5.70. In addition to the Kjeldhal method, used for reference, there is the Dumas combustion method, based on the combustion of nitrogen and the subsequent detection of it by thermal conductivity; this method is of growing interest thanks to the advantages of a considerable degree of automation and scarce laboratory waste. Another technique that is increasingly used is NIR or NIT analysis which involves the creation of preliminary calibration curves to be carried out in any case with the reference methods above.

BY DR. MARINA CARCEA

GLUTEN CONTENT

The quantity and quality of the proteins that make up gluten are the major factors that influence the technological characteristics of wheat flours and, in particular, the visco-elastic properties of the doughs obtained from them, such as extensibility, elasticity and strength. The quantitative determination and evaluation of the quality of the gluten are important parameters in the characterisation of wheat. The amount of gluten can be determined in wholemeal flour, flour or semolina. The flour is mixed with a 2% NaCl saline solution and then washed with a buffered saline solution in order to eliminate starch and soluble proteins. The result can be expressed as a percentage of wet gluten or dry gluten: the latter is obtained from wet gluten by drying it either in the oven or between hot plates. The extraction of gluten, once carried out by manual washing, has subsequently seen the use of semi-automatic gluten-washing machines and mostly automatic equipment today. The gluten extracted in this way can then be evaluated from a qualitative point of view using special instruments: among these, some evaluate the gluten mass that passes through a small sieve after centrifugation (the so-called Gluten Index); others subject the gluten to torsion, recording its resistance (Glutograph).

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Some important qualitative parameters of flour

BY DR. MARINA CARCEA

Chopin’s Alveograph

ALVEOGRAPHIC PARAMETERS AND CHARACTERISTICS OF SOFT WHEAT

It permits the evaluation of the behaviour of the wheat flour mixture, obtained with fixed hydration, when it is subjected to deformation by blowing in air and the consequent formation of a bubble until it breaks. At the same time, a trace is recorded from which some indices and useful information can be obtained: - the strength of the flour / semolina, expressed as W, which corresponds to the area traced and indicates the resistance opposed by the dough to deformation; - the toughness of the dough (P) represented by the height of the curve; - the extensibility of the dough (L) represented by the length; - the relationship between tough-

W above 250 W between 170 and 250 W above 170

P/L above 0,70 P/L above 0,70

W above 170

P/L between 0,30 and 0, 70

W between 130 and 170 W between 110 and 130 W below 110

P/L between 0,30 and 0, 70 P/L between 0,30 and 0, 70 —

P/L below 0,30

ness and extensibility, expressed by the P / L index, which expresses its balance. The processing industry requires high W values (> 180 J 10-4) associated with balanced P / L indices (0.40-0.60), but obviously the requirements vary with the intended use (see Table 4). More recently, a piece of equipment similar to the alveograph, the consistograph, has been put on the market, which has the same basic principle, but operates with variable rather than set water absorption. Depending on the combination of W and P / L values, the technological aptitude of type 0 or 00 soft wheat flour can be classified and the following table is shown as an indication:

So-called strength grains Unbalanced grains due to excessive toughness Unbalanced grains due to excessive extensibility Balanced grains with good and excellent aptitude for bread making Balanced grains with sufficient aptitude for bread making Grains with a mediocre aptitude for bread making Grains to be used for uses other than bread making, such as dry biscuits, waffles, etc.

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1. FLOURS: CHARACTERISTICS AND USES IN THE ART OF BAKING

The Brabender Farinograph It measures the resistance of a dough following mechanical stresses during the kneading phase. At the same time, a trace is recorded from which it is possible to obtain various parameters: - water absorption (%) which represents the maximum amount of water that can be absorbed by the flour to produce a dough with an optimal consistency; - development time (min) which represents the time necessary for the flour, absorbing the optimal quantity of water, to transform into a dough with an optimal consistency; - stability (min) which represents the time for which the flour maintains the optimal consistency conditions: high stability

TYPE OF WHEAT

values correspond to the flour’s characteristics of strength, which ensure high resistance to processing and leavening; - the degree of fall, or softening, (U.B.) which expresses the loss of consistency of the dough after a predetermined time interval. In the following table we can see how the qualitative indices described above can be used and combined to classify soft wheat flours according to their intended use.

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CLASSIFICATION OF SOFT WHEAT ACCORDING TO THE CHARACTERISTICS OF 0-00 TYPE FLOURS

ALVEOGRAPHIC INDICES

PROTEIN

FARINOGRAPHIC INDEX

FALL RATE

P/L

N x 5.7 s.s.

Stability

Strong wheat

≥ 300

1 max

≥ 14.5%

≥ 15’

≥ 250’’

Superior bread making wheat

≥ 220

0.6 max

≥ 13.5%

≥ 10’

≥ 220’’

Bread making wheat

≥ 160

0.6 max

≥ 11.5%

≥ 5’

≥ 220’’

Biscuit wheat

115 max

0.5 max

10.5% max

(source Italmopa)

≥ 240’’

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/ The choice of the flour to

BY DR. MARINA CARCEA

be used must therefore be made according to the type of product desired and its production technology, considering also the other ingredients: for conventional pizza, for example, mixtures of soft wheat 00 and 0 flour with different gluten strength characteristics are used. Pizza dough must be medium-strong and elastic to allow handling and leavening.

1992

Today, Rotoforno SU&GIU is in more that 85 countries around the world.

2021

Marana Forni invents the rotary pizza oven. Rotoforno SU&GIU

www.maranaforni.it +39 045 6704503 Verona - Italy

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RECIPES

GRAZIANO BERTUZZO

Graziano Bertuzzo 18

40 years of passion devoted to the most loved dish in the world, mingled with a great desire for learning, improving and experimenting. His passion begins back in 1973, when he moves the first steps into this sector which will make him renowned worldwide. In 1979, he opens his pizza shop Brian in Eraclea, a small town in the Veneto region, with his sister Manuela.

In 1984 he is certified as Master Instructor of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, where he currently still teaches the art of pizza both to newbies and professionals from all around the globe. He also manages consulting services for tailormade projects. Since 1991 he has been the head of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, the most important school of pizza in Europe, that this year celebrates 30 years since it was founded. Mr. Bertuzzo is also head of the panel of judges at the World Pizza Championship, he boasts a career and an endless record of prizes, last but not least the “Best of the Best” category at International Pizza Expo.

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Cream of peas Mini buffalo mozzarellas Mullet stuffed with spinach

La triglia e il suo fondale

“THE MULLET AND ITS SEABED” PIZZA

indirect pre-dough

FIRST PHASE

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— Type 1 stone ground 14% protein flour 1 KG (2 LBS 3.3 OZ) — Water 470 ML (16.54 UK FL OZ, 15.89 US FL OZ) — Fresh yeast 1% PER KG OF FLOUR

Parsley sponges

The next day add the following to the pre – dough:

Cabbage water crisps

— Type 1 stone ground 12% protein flour — Malt

SECOND PHASE

Roasted tomatoes

Mix 3 minutes until dough looks rough, place in a predough container, leave to ferment for about 16 hours at 20°C (68°F).

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1 KG (2 LBS 3.3 OZ) 10 G (0.35 OZ)

Bring everything to 70% hydration by adding 50 G (1.76 OZ) salt and 60 G (2.11 OZ) oil ¾ of dough. Mix until a dough temperature of 25°C (77°F) is reached (recommended start water temperature 15°C/59°F). Rest time in mass of 30 minutes. Form balls for a 30 cm diameter pan (300 - 360 G/ 10.6-12.7 OZ per ball), leave to rise for 30 minutes. Spread in the previously oiled pan and leave to rise for 2 hours, if in the proving room at 28°C (82.4°F) and 80% humidity, otherwise at room temperature of between 22-24°C/71.6-75.2°F, for 3 hours. Pre – cook for 6 minutes at 250-260°C (482-500°F) in an electric oven. For a crunchier pizza after pre – cooking, it is recommended to positive blast the disk of pasta in (+ 3°C/37.4°F). End cooking with another 5 minutes (250-260°C/482-500°F) then add topping.

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MOLINI PASINI

Facebook: molinopasinispa / Instagram: molino_pasini

MOLINO PASINI IS A LEADING COMPANY IN THE PRODUCTION OF ARTISAN FLOURS THAT HAS BEEN WORKING IN THE MILLING SECTOR FOR

MORE THAN 100 YEARS.

Thanks to the top-quality wheat varieties used, our flours boast unfailingly high standards that are consistent over time. Molino Pasini’s production philosophy is firmly based on the quality of its flour. This quality is guaranteed thanks to the strict tests performed by our test laboratory on all our products. This result is the outcome of a policy focused on meeting the requirements of customers who pay increasingly more attention to the quality standards of the products they buy. Moreover, one of our main goals is to provide customers with the highest level of food safety, achieved with the highest possible scores in different certifications: BRC-IFS, UNI EN ISO 22000 2005, UNI EN ISO 22000: FSSC, HACCP, KOSHER plus organic certification.

VERDE Flour – Pizza Line 10kg - 25kg bags Wheat flour type 00 for pizza Approved by AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana- The True Neapolitan Pizza Association) Main features Ideal for medium leavening time. CONSERVATION TIME AT 0-4°C: 1-2 days The Register of the approved suppliers of the "True Neapolitan Pizza" ("Vera Pizza Napoletana"), organized and promoted by the True Neapolitan Pizza Association (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana or AVPN), represents a renowned tool for all pizzerias that are members of the Association, giving an effective help and assistance in the supply of raw ingredients needed for making a "true Neapolitan pizza".

Molino Pasini S.p.a. via Buscoldo 27 bis | 46010 Cesole di Marcaria - MN - Italia Tel. +39 0376 969015 | info@molinopasini.com | www.molinopasini.com

AD: STUDIO OVER | PH: STEFANIA GIORGI | STYLING: VANDERSANDESTUDIO

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A P P R OV E D B Y AV P N ( A S S O C I A Z I O N E V E R A C E P I Z Z A N A P O L E TA N A ) T H E T R U E N E A P O L I TA N P I Z Z A A S S O C I AT I O N

PIZZERIA LINE M O L I N O P A S I N I | L’A R T E D E L L A F A R I N A | T H E A R T O F F L O U R W W W . M O L I N O PA S I N I . C O M

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

Do you know which yeast for pizza? While water and flour are the two basic ingredients for pizza dough, yeast is the catalyst that allows the transformation of the dough into the baked goods that we consume every day. While the origins of the use of this fungus are lost in time, we know for example that both ancient Assyrians and ancient Egyptians knew about its properties. Its modern applications in the chemical, pharmaceutical and food sectors date back to the late 19th century, coinciding with the development of the modern chemical industry. It would be very difficult to summarise here more than 3000 years of history; for this reason, we will try to explain the applications and characteristics of yeast in relation to the main focus of this editorial project: pizza.

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DO YOU KNOW WHICH YEAST FOR PIZZA?

WH AT A RE Y E ASTS ? Yeasts are a group of single-celled fungi, of which about a thousand varieties have been identified. For food applications the most used type of saccharomyces is brewer's yeast, whose applications range from the production of bread to pizza, wine and beer. The structure of Saccharomyces cerevisiae – the scientific name of this yeast variety – consists of an external cell membrane, cytoplasm and a central nucleus. The two main activities of this type of yeast depend on the presence of simple sugars, environmental conditions, presence of moisture and oxygen: these factors and their variations result in cell reproduction of the yeast or the fermentation of the food or drink that contains it, but before delving into this simple, yet critical process we should examine the types of yeast intended for food use.

“CHEMI CAL” YE ASTS, COMPRESSED YE ASTS AND SOURDOUGH STARTER

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Brewer's yeast, commonly found in the refrigerated section of the supermarket, owes its name to the fact that in the past it was obtained from deposits formed during the fermentation of beer barrels, while today it comes from a molasses compound; subsequently, through a series of industrial processes, the yeast is compressed into slabs with a 70% water content. Then, the yeast is dehydrated by reducing its moisture and obtaining dry yeast granules. Saccharomyces Cerevisiae begins to reproduce in the presence of oxygen: this happens because of the air incorporated during the kneading phase. After the oxygen has been exhausted, the fungus triggers a fermentation mechanism that produces ethyl alcohol and the portion of carbon dioxide that makes the dough bubble and swell before and during cooking.

Chemical leavening is used in several professional bakery products and very often for home desserts. This type of fermentation produces carbon dioxide during cooking, swelling the dough. Chemical yeast, which is unlike those mentioned above, is actually a powdered compound of baking soda combined with an acid element that produces carbon dioxide during cooking. This type of reaction is generally abnormal for natural yeasts which, at high temperatures, cease any fermenting activities. The first powdered yeasts were created industrially in the late 1800s. Another type of chemical leavening is produced by ammonium bicarbonate or cooking ammonia, which is used in the preparation of particularly crumbly cookies. The contraindication of this type — 24 of leavening agent is the slight taste of ammonia, which must be avoided in cooking by following the right cooking times. One of the most common chemical yeasts is cream of tartar, whose applications range from pastry to baking.

BY EDITORIAL STAFF

Natural yeast or sourdough starter is another important type of biological leavening. Historically, yeast was discovered by the people of Ancient Mesopotamia and by ancient Egyptians. It has always been used in the production of bread and jealously guarded by master bakers generation after generation, until the advent of brewer's yeast and compressed yeast. Sourdough starters have been rediscovered in recent years, becoming a must for all lovers of baking. It is a mixture of water and flour that, when allowed to ferment at room temperature, develops colonies of yeast and lactic bacteria that reproduce and, when used in a dough, can make it rise. The fermentation is the same as with brewer's yeast, with an increase in the volume of the dough and the formation of air pockets in the baked product. Unlike compressed yeast, despite also containing Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, a sourdough starter develops multiple yeast and lactic acid bacteria colonies: their fermentation releases special fragrances and flavours that are very sought after in baking. The increased acidity present in naturally leavened dough also preserves it better, keeping staleness at bay for longer.

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

Leavening and maturation: 26

two key processes

Here we shortly focus on two fundamental processes that occur after the preparation of the pizza dough: leavening and maturation. Both of these processes help to transform the mix prepared with water, flour, oil, salt and yeast into the baked goods that we consume every day. While the choice of flour determines the product we want to make (bread, pizza, puff pastry, biscuit, cake), the level of hydration, i.e. the ratio of water and flour in a dough mix, can also lead to very different results. All this also affects the leavening of the dough; for example, the higher the protein content of the flour, the longer the time for leavening and especially maturation of the dough to be produced. The reason is simple: the protein content in the flour determines the elasticity and strength of the dough; as a result, its ability to resist the swelling

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produced by carbon dioxide that forms inside the dough during leavening will be greater with a higher protein content. Gluten has a water absorption capacity equal to one and a half times its weight, therefore for highly hydrated doughs it is recommended to use flours with high flour strength W.

LE AV E N I N G AND RESPIR ATION Brewer's yeast, which is normally used for the production of pizza dough, can act in two ways: aerobiosis and anaerobiosis, i.e. with or without oxygen, respectively. During alcoholic fermentation, anaerobiosis occurs, or the process by which the yeast feeds on the simple sugars in the pizza dough and produces ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide. This process is called leavening and is the basis for the transformation of the dough itself. Aerobiosis or cellular respiration occurs in the same manner, but in the presence of oxygen: in this case the yeast will reproduce by budding, that is, with a yeast cell that will detach from the mother cell. This process occurs naturally and is the basis for yeast reproduction.

LEAVENING AND MATURATION: TWO KEY PROCESSES

Leavening and respiration are the two main functions of brewer's yeast, but there are some factors that can prevent or facilitate their occurrence: • • •

The presence or absence of simple sugars in the dough Ambient temperature Leavening time

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While simple sugars are literally food for the yeast (it feeds on sugars and multiplies), time and temperature affect the leavening. At very low temperatures, between 2 and 6°C (35.6 - 42.8°F), yeast's metabolism is greatly slowed down; these are the storage temperatures in the refrigerator, where yeast keeps its leavening power in full for about 3-4 weeks. At temperatures above 38° (100.4°F) the fermenting activity increases, but little by little the yeast cells begin to dissipate, until they completely cease activity once the temperature reaches 55° - 60° C (131 – 140°F). Carbon dioxide will puff up the dough until it doubles in volume, and with an increase in external heat, for example when the pizza is placed in the oven, it will be possible to see the pizza disc rise; after reaching the limit temperature of

55°-60° C (131 – 140°F), it will continue to cook up to 95 °C (203 °F). Another critical factor to take into account is leavening time, which may be longer or shorter depending on ambient temperature or the quality of the flour used to prepare the dough. In regard to managing time and temperature, there is another process that affects the dough and gives it a greater quality and digestibility: maturation. Leavening involves an increase in the volume of the dough through the production of carbon dioxide that remains trapped in the gluten network, while maturation is a process of transformation – or rather, a group of processes – that makes the pizza dough more digestible. Basically, during kneading the most complex structures such — 28 as starches, proteins and fats are progressively broken down into the corresponding simplest elements: starches into simple sugars, proteins into amino acids, and fats into lipids.

BY EDITORIAL STAFF

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RECIPES

GABRIELE BONCI

Gabriele Bonci 30

Bonci quickly established himself on the national and international scene. "After finishing my hotelier studies, I worked in some of the best restaurants in the capital, with an excellent response from the public and critics, until 2003 when I decided to open my own place starting with a take away pizzeria by the slice: so Pizzarium was born.

In 2012, more and more fascinated by the world of bread and yeast, I opened my own bakery and since then I have never stopped broadening my studies and bread-making techniques: I consider myself a baker, more than a pizza maker. In 2016 I opened a corner at the Central Market in Rome and in 2017 I inaugurated the first Bonci store in Chicago. In 2019, after several seasons at the Prova del Cuoco, I presented a television programme of my own, Pizza Hero, bringing a format that featured bakers and pizza makers to TV for the first time and obtaining great media coverage".

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C Pizza con

FLOUR

la coda alla vaccinara

PIZZA WITH OXTAIL STEW

DOUGH

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1 kg (2lb 3.3oz) type 0 flour 800 g (27 UK fl oz, 25.9 US fl oz) water 30 g (1 oz) extra virgin olive oil 15 g (0.5 oz) salt 3 g (0.1 oz) di dried brewer’s yeast

TOPPING

200 g (7 oz) potatoes, sliced with a mandolin and soaked overnight 200 g (7 oz) oxtail stew Sliced ribs of celery

Mix the brewer's yeast and flour; knead with 700 ml (24 UK fl oz, 23 US fl oz) of water. At this point add the salt, oil and another 100 ml (3 UK fl oz, 2.9 US fl oz) of water. Knead for a long time and let it rest for about 10 minutes. Fold the dough inwards several times. Place it in an oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Leave to rise in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Take the dough out of the fridge, form the desired balls and let them rest at room temperature for about 2 hours. Roll out the dough, transfer it to the pan and season it with potatoes. Bake in the lower part of a preheated oven at maximum temperature for about 10 minutes, then finish cooking in the central part of the oven. Remove from the oven and add the oxtail and the celery ribs.

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The Neapolita

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Extract from the book "The Neapolitan Pizza" by Dr. Paolo Masi - professor of Food Engineering - and Dr. Annalisa Romano - professor of Food Processing- of the Department of Agriculture at the Università degli Studi di Napoli Federico II. From popular food to global icon. In these two words lies the story of pizza, the flag of Italian food worldwide. Throughout the centuries, the art of the pizzaiuoli has produced something which has become a global dish and is integrated in the food habit of many cultures. At first sight and to the careless observer, pizza might appear to be almost a banal product: a disk of leavened dough, garnished to taste according to the flare of pizzaiolo, baked for a very short time in a wood-fired, refractory oven. The reality is much more complex; flour, water, yeast and salt are among the most common ingredients found in a kitchen and yet their nature, the mutual interactions, thus the sequence with which they are blended together, crucially influence the properties of the mix; time, humidity and the techniques

THE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

used in all of the different phases of preparation and baking will reflect upon the characteristics of the pizza; the appearance, the aroma, the taste and its digestibility. A little nuance, a detail, a “secret” will ensure the uniqueness of a seemingly ordinary product, identifying the pizzaiolo who prepared it. The production process of “Pizza Napoletana” consists of a limited number of phases: preparation of the dough, leavening, preparation and shaping of the dough loaves, obtaining of the disk of dough and garnishing, baking in a wood fired oven made from refractory bricks. Like all artisanal activities, pizza making follows a well-defined sequence of procedures from raw materials to the finished product. Unlike industrially manufactured products it is not possible to rigorously systemise all process conditions. Every pizzaolo, based on experience gained over time or acquired orally, performs each procedure accord35 — ing to his own personal approach. He adapts raw materials to these conditions, or the conditions to the raw materials available to him at any given time, in order to optimise the procedures and give the final product (pizza) the characteristics he considers optimal. For instance, the water/flour ratio the time and method of mixing, the raising time and temperature, can vary from pizzaiolo to pizzaiolo. And that’s not all! The moment in which the salt is added, the amount of the yeast used to form the dough, the maturation time of the dough loaves and the temperature at which they are stored, differ by just enough to give the final product its uniqueness. The preparation of the dough loaves alone can be very different: some stretch the dough with regular movements from the inside outwards; others alternate fast compression stages to equally fast stretching stages.

Finally, the baking process itself may differ from pizzaiolo to pizzaiolo: some prefer to expose the pizza to an intense thermal shock in the early stages of baking and then continue the baking process less aggressively; others work in the opposite way, preferring less energetic baking in the initial phase and then finishing the baking process with an intense dose of heat. The result is increasingly varied, providing consumers with a wide range of flavours and sensory characteristics. Some have a more pronounced rim, others have a greater number of bubbles, some have larger bubbles, some are more topping than others, some softer and more compact. You might say there is one to suit everybody’s fancy and perhaps this infinite variability in sensory characteristics is the key to the success of this product of Neapolitan cuisine, which has always been much loved and imitated worldwide. Given the global success achieved by this product and the degree of excellence reached by artisan pizzaioli everywhere, even outside of the country where this simple but delicious product was born and reached its popularity, one wonders why we would want to observe it with the rigor of a scientific approach.

In 2010 the European Commission made a regulation defining the production of Neapolitan Pizza TSG. This may seem like the arrival point of a journey which begun with the first historical evidence of the appearance of this product, acknowledging a specificity connected to a well-defined territory. The regulation also sheds a light over the authentic genesis of the Neapolitan Pizza, now widespread across the world, and the many other origins, which have been in time associated with it, defining the procedures to be followed in the preparation of Neapolitan Pizza. By scientifically analysing the production process of the Neapolitan Pizza, the regulation provides an excellent starting point in order to truly understand which rules should be followed in the preparation of pizza according to traditional Neapolitan cuisine and which, on the other hand, are merely suggestions resulting from other considerations with no scientific evidence.

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The Neapolitan Pizza TSG Neapolitan Pizza is the result of few, simple steps performed by master craftsmen who are able, thanks to their experience and sensitivity, to give the product the aromatic and structural characteristics and the flavour that make it unique and recognisable, although apparently prepared with the same procedures used by others. This paper, the aim of which is to provide a scientific explanation of the events that occur during the preparation of the Neapolitan Pizza, will begin by looking at the Commission Regulation (EU) No 97/2010 of 4 February 2010, including the Neapolitan Pizza in the register of Confectionery, bread, pastry, cakes, biscuits and other bakers’ wares which will be quoted below in its entirety. “Pizza Napoletana” TSG is a round product baked in the oven with a variable diameter not exceeding 35 cm and raised rim and the central part is garnished. The central part is 0.4 cm thick, with a tolerance of + - 10%, and the rim is 1-2 cm think. The overall pizza must be tender. Elastic and easily foldable into four. “Pizza Napoletana” TSG is a round product baked in the oven with a variable diameter not exceeding 35 cm (14 in) and raised rim and the central part is garnished. The central part is 0.4 cm thick (1/6 in), with a tolerance of + - 10%, and the rim is 1-2 cm (1/2 - 1 in) thick. The overall pizza must be tender, elastic and easily foldable into four. “Pizza Napoletana” TSG is distinguished by a raised rim, a golden colour characteristic of products baked in the oven, and a tenderness to touch and to taste; by a garnished centre dominated by the red of the tomatoes, perfectly mixed with oil and, depending on the ingredients used, the green of the oregano and the white of the garlic; by the white of the mozzarella slabs which are laid either closer together or further apart, and the green of the basil leaves, which are lighter or darker depending on the baking. The consistency of “Pizza Napoletana” must be tender, elastic, and easily foldable; the product is

THE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

easy to cut; it has a characteristic, savoury taste given by the raised rim, which has a taste typical of bread which has risen and been baked well, mixed with the acidic flavor of the tomatoes and the aroma of the oregano, garlic and basil and the flavour of baked mozzarella. At the end of the baking process the pizza emits a characteristic aroma which is deliciously fragrant; the tomatoes, which have lost only their excess water, remain compact and solid; the “Mozzarella di Bufala Campana AOP” or “ Mozzarella STG” are melted on the surface of the pizza; the basil, garlic and oregano develop an intense aroma and do not look burnt. The basic raw materials distinguishing “Pizza Napoletana” are: common wheat flour, brewer’s yeast, natural drinking water, peeled tomatoes and/or small fresh tomatoes “pomodorini”, sea salt or kitchen salt and extra virgin olive oil. Other ingredients which may be used in the preparation of “Pizza Napoletana” are: garlic and orega37 — no; Mozzarella di Bufala Campana AOP, fresh basil and “Mozzarella STG”.

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Table

Soft wheat flour classification W 220-380 P/L 0.50 to 0.70 Absorption 55-62 Stability 4-12 Value Index E10 max.60 Falling Number (Hagberg index) 300-400 Dry gluten 9.5 to 11 g% Proteins 11 to 12.5%

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The preparation of “Pizza Napoletana TSG” exclusively comprises the phases of work described below, to be carried out in a continuous cycle on the same commercial premises.

Preparation of the dough Blend the flour, water, salt and yeast. Pour a little water into the dough mixer, dissolve in a quantity of between 50g and 55 g (1.76 – 1.94 oz) of sea salt, add 10% of the total quantity of flour, then add 3 g (0.1 oz) of brewer’s yeast. Start up the dough mixer and gradually add 1.8 kg (3 lbs 15.5 oz) of W 220-230 flour until the desired consistency is reached, which is defined as the “dough point”. This operation should take 10 minutes. The dough must be worked in a dough mixer, preferably one with a dough hook, for 20 minutes at low speed, until a single compact mass is obtained. The amount of water that flour is capable of absorbing is very important in obtaining an optimum dough consistency. The dough should not be sticky to the touch and should be soft and elastic. The characteristics of the dough are shown in Table 2, with a tolerance for each of +/- 10%.

Dough rising process First stage. Once it has been removed from the dough mixer, the dough is placed on a work surface in the pizzeria where it must be left for two hours, covered with a damp cloth, to prevent its surface from hardening, and a type of crust from forming as a result of the evaporation of its internal moisture.. Once the two hours for the rising have passed, the next stage is the shaping of the dough loaves, which must be carried out exclusively by hand by the pizza chef. Using a spatula, a portion of the risen dough is cut off the work surface before being shaped into a loaf. For “Pizza Napoletana”, the dough loaves must weigh between 180 and 250 g (6.35 and 8.82 oz). Second stage: once the loaves have been shaped, a second rising phase lasting four to six hours takes place inside food containers. This dough, which is kept at room temperature, is ready to be used within the next six hours.

Table

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THE NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

Characteristics of the dough Fermentation temperature 25°C +/- 3° Final pH 5.87 Total titratable acidity 0.14 Density 0.79 g/cm3 (+34%) Shaping the dough loaves Once the dough has risen, the loaf is taken out of the box using a spatula and is places on the counter of the pizzeria on a light layer of flour to stop it sticking to the work surface. Working from the centre outwards, and by exerting pressure with the fingers of both hands on the loaf, which is turned over several times, the pizza chef shapes

a disc of dough whose thickness must not exceed 0.4 cm (1/6 in) in the centre, with a tolerance of + - 10%, and 1 to 2 cm (0.5 – 1 in) on the edges, thus forming a raised rim. No other type of preparation is authorised for the preparation of “Pizza Napoletana” TSG, in particular the use of a rolling pin and/or a mechanical press-type disc machine.

Garnish

Baking

Using a spoon, place 70 to 100 g (2.5 – 3.5 oz) of crushed, peeled tomatoes

Using a little flour and a rotating movement, the “pizzaiolo” tranfers the garnished pizza onto a wooden (aluminum) baker’s peel and slides it onto the baking floor of the oven with a quick flick of the wrist, which prevents the garnish from running. The “Pizza Napoletana” TSG is baked exclusively in wood-fired ovens with a baking temperature of 485 °C (905°F), which is essential for producing the “Pizza Napoletana” TSG. The pizza chef must monitor the baking of the pizza by lifting its side using a metal peel and rotating the pizza towards the fire, taking care always to use the same initial area of the baking floor to ensure that the pizza does not burn due to differences in temperatures. It is important that the pizza is baked uniformly across its entire circumference. Still using the metal peel, when baking is finished, the pizza chef removes the pizza from the oven and places it on the plate. The baking time should not exceed 60-90 seconds. After baking, the pizza has the following characteristics: the tomatoes, having lost only their excess water, remain compact and solid; the “Mozzarella di Bufala Campana AOP” or “Mozzarella STG” are melted on the surface of the pizza; the basil, garlic and oregano emit an intense aroma and do not look burnt.

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The “Pizza Napoletana TSG” is seasoned as follows: • 3.5 oz) of crushed, peeled tomatoes in the centre of

the disc of dough; • Using a spiraling motion, spread the tomato over the whole central surface; • Using a spiraling motion, add the salt to the surface of the tomato; • In the same manner, sprinkle with a pinch of oregano; • Chop a peeled clove of garlic into thin slices and place them on top of the tomato; • Using an oil dispenser with a spout and a spiraling motion, distribute over the surface area, from the centre outwards, 4 to 5 g (0.14 – 0.17 oz) of extra virgin olive oil, with a tolerance of + 20% Or: • Using a spoon, place 60 to 80 g (2.1 – 2.8 oz) of tomatoes and/or chopped small fresh tomatoes at the centre of the disc of dough; • Using a spiraling motion, spread the tomato over the whole central surface; • Using a spiraling motion, add the salt to the surface of the tomato; • Place 80 to 100 g (2.8 – 3.5 oz) of sliced “Mozzarella di Bufala Campana AOP” on the surface of the tomato; • Place several fresh basil leaves on the pizza; • Using an oil dispenser with a spout and a spiraling motion, distribute 9over the surface area, from the centre outwards, 4 to 5 g (0.14 – 0.17 oz) of extra virgin olive oil, with a tolerance of + 20%.

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RECIPES

Franco Pepe 40

Franco Pepe is one of the most successful pizza chefs in the world. With the experience of two generations behind him, inspired by a new and personal vision of pizza, in 2012 he opened Pepe in Grani, the currently famous pizzeria that combines experience, craftsmanship, hospitality, training and attention to the local territory. It is well and truly a catering project that has been enriched over the years, based on the one hand on the passion for dough, for a pasta disc that shares the flavours of Alto Casertano in the Italian Campania region, and on the other for the desire to help customers understand in depth the process of research, transformation and enhancement of raw materials carried out by the professional.

C In addition to being Ambassador of the Mediterranean Diet in the world, in 2019 he was awarded the honour of Knight of the Order "of Merit of the Italian Republic" to "reward the merits acquired towards the Nation in the field of gastronomy, where he was able to revive, with his project, “Pepe in Grani”, the destiny of a territory”.

FRANCO PEPE

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A pizza with roots in the past and wings spread towards the future. La Ritrovata is part of the "Functional Menu" project which aims to balance macronutrients - carbohydrates, proteins and fats - with the dietary fibre present, affecting digestion and assimilation times, thus helping make pizza an excellent "one-plate meal".

FLOURS

E La ritrovata QUANTITIES FOR A SINGLE PIZZA dough

200gr (7 oz)

anchovies from Cetara

35gr (1.2 oz)

San Marzano DOP tomato puree

50gr (1.75 oz)

Piennolo del Vesuvius tomato pacchetelle (fillets) 50gr (1.75 oz) dehydrated capers

2g (0.07 oz)

dehydrated Caiazzane olives

1g (0.035 oz)

Extra Virgin Olive oil with garlic crystallised basil

5g (0.175 oz)

10gr (0.35 oz)

THE REDISCOVERED The rising time of dough is respected and it is garnished with the San Marzano Dop tomato sauce and the Piennolo del Vesuvio pacchetelle fillets that have lycopene, vitamins, mineral salts and fibre. The taste of the earth is combined with that of the sea, with anchovies from Cetara, rich in omega 3 fatty acids and proteins of high biological value. The balance of taste is harmonised by the powder of dehydrated Caiazzane olives and dehydrated capers, all framed by a drizzle of cold garlic oil, rich in polyphenols, vitamin E and Allicina, a nutraceutical substance present in garlic, which has always been used in traditional pharmacopoeia to treat hypertension and seasonal ailments. Last but not least, crystallised basil, which is first dipped in boiling oil and then cooled in ice cold water, with its glassy colour will act as an "emerald", impressing the senses of sight and smell. To summarise, following the recommended quantities for preparation, we will have a content of 55% carbohydrate, 18% protein and 9.5% fat. In order for the dish to be a complete one-plate meal, the remaining 17.5% of fat can be provided with a dressing made from extra virgin olive oil, vinegar and seeds proposed to eat with the rim, that part of the pizza that is usually left on the plate, as well as a small portion of edible wild herb salad for fibre content.

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BY ANTONIO PADUANO - FOOD CONSULTANT

Pizza in Rome

Rome today, there are approximately 15,000 pizzerias, evidence of just how much the famous Pizza Romana is consumed. A typical phrase in Roman dialect is “annamo a magnasse 'na pizza!” – “let’s go for a pizza!”. Whether the pizza is round, baked on a peel or in a pan doesn’t matter, the important thing is that it’s Roman. The round Roman Pizza has a diameter of approximately 32/33 cm (12.5 - 13 in), is rolled out with a rolling pin until it is thin, the dressing spread to the edges and is characteristically not chewy but very crunchy. The Roman pizza baked on a peel is about 70-80 cm (27 - 31 in) long and 30-32 cm (11.5 - 12.5 in) wide, has a pronounced crust and is spread delicately, making it alveolar, crunchy underneath and soft on top. The Roman pizza in a pan is very crunchy with quite a thin crust and a notable alveolar characteristic. The dressing is spread to the edges and its lightness and digestibility distinguish it.

How was the Roman pan pizza born? After the 1960s, some of the most famous pizza makers from Terni, Lino Tedeschi, Michele Checchi, Gianni Giochi, turned the pan pizza into an everyday Roman street food. The first rustic pizzerias were born and it was immediately a success: everyone, however young or old, tasted a piece of pizza every day. Among the most consumed are the classic white focaccia with salt and oil, the red pizza with hand-crushed peeled tomatoes, pizza with button mushrooms, with potatoes and the famous and simple: tomato and mozzarella. From the 1960s, a high protein flour with about 11-12% protein (300/340 W) was used for pizza, with the addition of refined and deodorised lard, which made the pizza crunchy, sweet and considerably friable. It was so tasty one bite led to another. Since the 1980s, many pizza chefs, for health, dietary and religious reasons, have replaced lard with olive oil and converted to different methods of dough. The population was looking for tasty but healthy products, with fewer calories, lighter and easier to digest. After 1992, following the strong push towards the improvement

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PIZZA IN ROME

and better knowledge of raw materials, the first schools for pizza chefs were started. The first was that of Via Vaglia in Rome, which then moved to Via Taro. Since then, the world of the pizza has changed. The use of "stronger" flours began, with the addition of soy (vegetable fat), which permitted higher hydrations (up to 80%) and longer maturation, to obtain the renowned alveolate, crunchy and digestible pizza. Thanks to these new features, the consumption of the Roman pan pizza and peel pizza has increased enormously. As a consequence, the "technology" of pizza has been perfected: specific ovens were created for each type of pizza, as were high-performance mixers capable of sustaining high hydration, and different types of tomatoes and mozzarella. The professionals, the architects of the success of the Roman pizza (manufacturers of ovens, equipment for dough, food companies), are committed to researching the best processing systems for each phase of pizza creation, with the aim of reaching perfection for the classic Roman pizza.

How have flours evolved over the years? Given the strong growth in the number of professionals and the demand for increasingly high quality and high performing products, the mills started to work different types of flours and mixes for every need. According to their characteristics, the flours offer different processing possibilities. Flours poorer in W and proteins allow doughs with short maturation (up to 12 hours) and with little hydration (maximum 60%). Flours with a higher W and a higher protein level (about 11-12%) allow a longer maturation period (up to 48 hours with controlled temperatures) and high hydration (up to 80%). Many mills today create mixes of flours to offer a product that is easier to manage and with precise characteristics, to improve aromas and stability and to guarantee longer maintenance at the counter. To bake a good, round, Roman pizza, that is both crunchy and thin, start by choosing a flour of about 280/300 W, with 12%

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PIZZA IN ROME

BY ANTONIO PADUANO - FOOD CONSULTANT

protein, a 60% hydrated dough and 20g of extra virgin olive oil per kg of flour,25g (0.9 oz) of salt per kg (2 lb 2.37 oz) of flour and 4-5g (0.14-0.0.17oz) of yeast per kg (2 lb 2.37 oz) of flour. As soon as the dough, which should have a temperature of about 24°C (75 °F), is finished, it is placed in the fridge and left to mature for about 24 hours. The dough will then be divided into balls weighing 180/200 g (6.3 - 7 oz) to obtain, when rolled out, a diameter of 32/33 cm (12.5 - 13 in). When the balls of dough have doubled in volume, roll them out with a rolling pin. Bake the pizza for 3-4 minutes at a temperature of 300-310°C (572 - 590 °F). For a crunchy and alveolar Roman pizza with a peel, a flour of 320/340 W should be used to obtain higher hydration, of about 70-75%. Always use cold water and flour to knead, to obtain a stronger gluten mesh, which will also help water absorption. For the dough use 20g (0.7 oz) of extra virgin olive oil per kg of flour, 22/25g (0.8 - 0.9 oz) of salt per kg of flour and 4-5g(0.140.0.17oz) of yeast. When the dough reaches 24°C (75°F), place it in the refrigerator for 24 hours. The batch will then be divided into balls weighing about 900g (31.7 oz), and left to rest at room temperature until the balls double in volume and at a temperature of about 21-22°C (70-72°F), which will facilitate the rolling out. The pizza on the peel usually has a length of 70-80 cm (27 - 31 in) and a width of 30-32 cm (11.5 - 12.5 in). Once rolled out, the dough will be baked in the oven at 280/290°C (536-554°F) for about 7/9 minutes depending on the topping. The oven heat setting will be approximately 70% from the top and 30% from the bottom. For a Roman pizza in a pan, a flour of about 360/380 W should be used, with 13-14% protein, to be hydrated to 75/80% with cold water at about 4°C. For the dough use 20g (0.7 oz) of extra virgin olive oil per kg (2lb 2.37 oz) of flour, 23-25 g (0.8-0.9 oz) of salt per kg (2lb 2.37 oz) of flour and 3-4g (0.1-0.14 oz) of yeast. After kneading for about 18 minutes, wait for the dough to reach a temperature of 23-24°C (73.4-75.2 °F) and let it rest in the fridge for 36/48 hours. To cook in a 60x40 cm (24 x 16 in) pan, the dough must be broken into balls of 900/950g (1 lb 15.7 oz/2 lb 1.5 oz) for pizzas with topping, or of 1.3 / 1.4 kg (2 lb 14 oz/ 3 lb 1 oz ) for white focaccia. When the balls of dough have doubled in volume and reached a temperature of about 21-22°C (69.8-71.6°F), they will be gently spread in the pan, without eliminating the air that has created inside them, to obtain the alveolar consistency. The dough should preferably be baked in an oven with a 12 cm (5 in) opening at a temperature of about 300/320°C (572 – 608 °F). The oven heat setting will be approximately 30% from the top and 70% from the bottom.

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TONY GEMIGNANI

Tony Gemignani

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Gemignani has had a passion for the pizza industry since 1991. His humble beginnings began at his brother’s acclaimed Pyzano’s Pizzeria in Castro Valley. Fresh out of high school, Tony took on the task of a pizza thrower and soon began entertaining the restaurant crowds with his wily tricks. A few years later, he entered into his first pizza throwing competition in Las Vegas and quickly became the top pizza thrower in the world. Since his days at his brother’s pizzeria, Gemignani has received a number of accolades for his impressive pizza making and throwing skills. He is president of the World Pizza Champions pizza team; the first and only Triple Crown winner for baking at the International Pizza Championships in Lecce, Italy; and, his most prestigious title to date, the 2007 World Champion Pizza Maker at the World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy, where he was the first American and non-Neapolitan winner. Gemignani also received his Master credentials from Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli and is the owner of the International School of Pizza where he certifies chefs from around the world.

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FLOUR

cold water

a Roma

800 ml (27 UK fl oz, 26 US fl oz)

warm water

200 ml (6.8 UK fl oz, 6.5 US fl oz)

high glutine/ protein flour W 330 spelt or wholemeal flour soy flour

E Omaggio 1 kg (2 lb 3.3 oz)

100 g (3.5 oz)

Mix all the types of flour together dehydrated active yeast 10 g (0.3 oz) low diastase malt 2 g (0.07 oz) sea salt 36 g (1.27 oz) extra virgin olive oil 36 g (1.27 oz)

HOMAGE TO ROME

In the mixer: mix the malt together with all the flour, mix half of the cold water into the flour for 2 minutes at the lowest speed. Leave to rest for 45 minutes covered in the bowl: this is called the autolysis method. Using a metal whisk, activate the yeast in 200 ml (6.8 UK fl oz, 6.5 US fl oz) of warm water and let it rest for 5 minutes. Add the resulting mixture to the bowl and run the mixer at the lowest speed. Slowly add 90% of the remaining water while turning the mixer now at a higher speed. Leave to work for 3/5 minutes and add the salt. Continue for 3 minutes and then add the extra virgin olive oil, another 3-4 minutes always at a higher speed and add the remaining 10% of water and mix until the dough is ready. Remove the dough from the bowl.

RECIPES

TONY GEMIGNANI

HOMAGE TO ROME

Now let the dough rise overnight covered, placed in a pan or in specific boxes in the fridge. After the night in the fridge, take it all out, let it reach room temperature and start rising again before use.

Put it in a sealed and previously oiled bowl. After 2 hours proceed with folding the dough 3 times, then place it in the container in the positive refrigerator for 48 hours (to obtain the best result). Remove the dough from the refrigerator and gently form the balls. Leave the dough covered at room temperature until it has doubled or tripled in volume.

Spreading the dough in the pan: Pass the dough in the semolina and place it in a special pan for Roman-style pizza. Spread it out as much as possible and place the pan in a warm area for about 1 hour. "Massage" the dough gently with your fingertips, spread a drizzle of olive oil and pre-cook to 50%, then add the sliced mozzarella and potatoes (previously thinly sliced). Make sure that during preparation, the potatoes have been immersed in water for 4 hours to release the starch: this will help them cook better. Cook everything in an electric or gas oven at 280 °C (536°F). TOPPING When the pizza has finished cooking, cut it, add the chopped rosemary, Parma ham DOP, sea salt, goat’s cheese, grated Parmesan DOP and if you have some nduja available it would be ideal at the end!

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MOLINI LARIO

Facebook: Accademia Farina-Molini Lario / Instagram: #accademiafarina

MOLINI LARIO AND THE ART OF MILLING WHEAT FLOUR FOR PIZZA

Molini Lario was established in 1919, and over these more than 100 years it has partnered with some of the most prominent industrial bakeries, as well as with hundreds of small artisanal workshops. Located between the Alpes and Lake Como, the facility produces 400 tons of wheat flour a day in compliance with the highest quality and safety standards, including flours for baby foods. The company’s mission is to harmonize the technical features of selected European grains with customer requirements. For this purpose, a modern and sophisticated laboratory is engaged with R&D activities, while the collaboration with award-winning bread and pizza masters has helped to conceive highest performance flours. After several years of market testing and product development, at the beginning of 2021, Molini Lario has released GranPizza Line, a complete family of wheat flours for pizza, with the purpose to provide all different types of pizza, such as Classica, Neapolitan, Romana, in Pala or in Teglia, Molini Lario S.p.a. Via dei Platani 609 | 22040 Alzate Brianza (CO) Italy Tel. +39 031 630 491 | Fax +39 031 632 546 info@molinilario.it | www.molinilario.it

with extraordinary qualities. The concept 49 — behind this family of products is that there is no such a thing as the best pizza flour, but each type of pizza has peculiar features which require specific performances. For this reason, the varieties of grain and the milling techniques used in these pizza flours are essential to obtain a correct protein structure required for the fermentation stage, thus creating a highly digestible finished product. It is possible to choose between a manifold range of type 00, a special Originale type 0 100% Italian grains and also Tanta Fibra Pizzeria Type 1, Whole wheat and Multicereals flours all combinable with Hylario natural starter and dry brewer's yeast. When talking about flour types and capabilities, sky is the limit. Like the colour palette of a painter, a pizza maker chooses the flour which fits the best to make pizza his work of art.

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.04 “Questions you would like to ask about gluten-free pizza” FRANCESCA LAGONIA ANSWERS - TRAINER AND CONSULTANT -

What is celiac disease?

Celiac disease is an autoimmune disease that develops in genetically predisposed individuals following the intake of gluten and affects more women than men. To develop celiac disease, genetic predisposition, gluten intake and altered intestinal permeability have to exist, and it causes damage to the intestine. Symptoms can be varied and involve the intestinal system as well as other organs. The only therapy for the complete remission of the disease and its complications is a gluten-free diet. The gluten-free diet must be maintained strictly and permanently, i.e. forever from the moment of diagnosis. The choice of suitable foods and the management of the risk of food contamination must be rigorous: in fact, the maximum amount of gluten tolerated by a celiac is 10 mg per day, i.e. traces. Other illnesses caused by the intake of gluten that are not celiac disease, are wheat allergy or allergy to other cereals containing gluten and gluten intolerance, known as “non-celiac” intolerance. This “non-celiac” intolerance, in particular, is not yet defined as a pathology, rather as a clinical entity, and is the subject of recent study and research: to date, “non-celiac” intolerance refers to people who show symptoms similar to those of celiac sufferers, respond positively to a gluten-free diet but do not have the intestinal damage typical of celiac disease.

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FLOUR

4. GLUTEN-FREE: QUESTIONS YOU WOULD LIKE TO ASK ABOUT

I have a pizzeria that normally makes traditional pizzas, I would like to add gluten-free pizza as well. What should I do?

The choice to add gluten-free pizza to the menu today is certainly as far-sighted as it is a challenging choice: it means increasing one's professionalism by experimenting with new raw materials and opening up to an increasingly numerous clientele that needs a specific type of cuisine for health reasons. There are three main steps to take to start a gluten-free pizzeria service: get information from accredited and reliable bodies to attend specific training courses on celiac disease and gluten-free catering, define internal work procedures to protect yourself from the risk of environmental contamination and gluten crossover (according to the Haccp method), define your own recipe for gluten-free dough or choose from the numerous ready doughs and the numerous ready-made gluten-free pizza bases the one that is right for “us”.

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ANSWER FRANCESCA LAGONIA

I already have gluten free pizza on the menu, but I would like to expand my offer and make my own gluten-free doughs. Is it risky?

The preparation of a gluten-free pizza must take place in a safe way or, as we said, by applying work procedures defined ad hoc and always applied, without exception, by the personnel in charge at all stages: from procurement, to conservation, from handling (dough, spreading and topping) to cooking, up to serving, service at the table and possible take-out. In a work context that therefore requires general and widespread attention, experience teaches us that often the most complicated operations keep the attention threshold of operators high, inducing them to operate correctly: the preparation of a gluten-free dough is undoubtedly more laborious and demanding than the simple use of a ready-made pizza base, but carried out on surfaces and with work equipment that is clean and used exclusively for gluten-free products, is no more risky than other manoeuvres which, apparently simpler, can be done superficially and carelessly and therefore in an unsafe way. As for the quality of a gluten-free dough today, with a little research and experimentation, it is possible to obtain very satisfactory results, thanks to the availability on the market of increasingly refined and workable raw materials, even without the gluten network that you are used to. So, my invitation is that you try your hand at "gluten free" pizza dough, finding your own recipe, using suitable raw materials with the "gluten-free" label guarantee: this is certainly the way to a successful service!

ANSWER FRANCESCA LAGONIA

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What ingredients are considered to be at risk? Can there be problems with fresh ingredients, such as seasonal vegetables?

A gluten-free diet involves the complete and rigorous exclusion of cereals that contain gluten and all foods that derive from their processing. Much attention must also be paid to the choice of foods which may contain gluten, not only in their ingredients but also because of the risk of cross-contamination during the food processing and packaging process. "Risky" foods include mixtures of flours and mono-cereal flours and starches albeit from gluten-free cereals such as rice flour, corn flour, potato starch, legume and soy flour, but also chemical yeast, cured meats and sausages, spreadable or already melted cheeses, mushrooms and artichokes preserved with additions of condiments and preservatives, ready-made sauces such as mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard, glazes. This is with particular reference to the ingredients most used for the preparation of a gluten-free pizza. These are foods that can be used only if declared on the label as "gluten-free" pursuant to Executive Regulation (EU) 828/2014. Otherwise, again with reference to pizza, both fresh and dried brewer's yeast, any type of vegetable oil, salt, pepper and various spices, tomato puree and ready-to-use tomato pulp, mozzarella and all "traditional" cheeses can be used (rennet, milk and salt) of any brand and type, because they are safe food categories and guaranteed by production regulations and discipline that exclude the possibility of gluten. As for fruit, vegetables, potatoes and legumes as they are, they are naturally gluten-free foods and therefore always suitable for "gluten-free" preparations, as are rice, corn, quinoa, buckwheat, millet if in grains and seeds, meat, fish, eggs and milk as they are.

Slices// Slices

RECIPES

FEDERICO DE SILVESTRI

Federico De Silvestri

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Federico De Silvestri is a master instructor with certified training from the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli and the owner of "Quattrocento" Pizzeria-Focacceria in Marzana, in the province of Verona.

De Silvestri's establishment specialises in traditional pizzas, pizza on the peel, and especially gluten-free pizzas, with innovative recipes that pay special attention to gluten-free food laws and regulations.

Federico De Silvestri was twice the World Champion winning World Pizza Championship - Gluten-free Pizza (in 2016 and in 2017) and is currently working as an instructor in the gluten-free pizza courses at the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. In 2019 Federico won two medals at the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas: “Non-traditional” and “Best of the best”.

E My Detroit

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FLOUR

Gluten Free FOR A SMALL PAN:

Gluten Free flour mix cold water salt oil

190 g (6.7 oz)

150 ml (5.3 UK fl oz, 5.1 US fl oz)

5 g (0.2 oz) 5 g (0.2 oz)

fresh yeast

I combine flour and water with the dissolved yeast and knead until a smooth and lump-free dough is obtained; then I add the salt and finally a little oil. Once my ball of dough is ready, I put it in the fridge for 24 hours.

2 g (0.07 oz)

TOPPING:

mozzarella fior di latte from Trentino Alto Adige Speck riserva from Lessinia

After 24 hours I take it out of the fridge and leave it at room temperature for two hours; I take the pan and grease it well then roll out my dough to cover the whole pan. I let it rise for another 2 hours and I top it. I put the pan in the oven at 230°C (446°F) for 15 minutes.

250 g (8.8 oz)

7 slices

Tropea onion cut into julienne strips San Marzano DOP tomato

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40 g (1.4 oz)

60 g (2.1 oz)

chopped pistachio from Bronte as needed Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG QB wine gelatine

Slices// Slices

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PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine

COLOPHON

GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo, Paola Dus — Mediagraf lab COVER ILLUSTRATED by Giulia Serafin

Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 n. 3/bis, March, 2021 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi, Patrizio Carrer ADVERTISING David Mandolin, Patrizio Carrer, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 Fax +39 0421 83178 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it follow us

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PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), David Mandolin, Caterina Orlandi, Virgilio Pronzati, Caterina Vianello.

ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green – TEL +39 0421 212348 FAX +39 0421 83178

Since 1990, Pizza e Pasta Italiana has been the Italian magazine of reference for professionals working in the pizza sector. As the organiser of international events such as the Pizza World Championship, Pizza e Pasta Italiana magazine tells the story of pizza over time, in Italy and in the world, through scientific articles, interviews with professionals, thematic insights on raw materials, technologies, processing techniques and new trends, with a constant spirit of service towards the restaurateur.

Slices is a new print and digital publishing project that will be developed by taking into consideration some of the basic raw materials to make pizza to perfection. "Slices" of culture for professionals only, offering them a practical and immediate tool to progressively contribute to spreading knowledge of raw materials, processing techniques, technologies and the most suitable tools to prepare, with passion and love, one of the most loved dishes in the world.

First edition:

Flour Part 1 Upcoming publications: /Raw materials - Part 1 /Preparation and cooking: equipment and tools - Part 1 /Mozzarella and cheeses - Part 1