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Slices/ 04

mozzarella, cheeses and ingredients

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EVERY GREAT RECIPE HAS A SECRET. THE ONE FOR NEAPOLITAN PIZZA IS CALLED SCIÓRE. TYPE 2 SOFT WHEAT FLOUR, RICH IN FIBRES AND WHEAT GERM CONTAINING OMEGA 3 AND OMEGA 6 SUITABLE FOR LONG FERMENTATIONS AND SOURDOUGH WITH SCIÓRE YOUR PIZZA WOULD BE FRAGRANT AND TASTY.

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EDITORIAL

Italian cuisine is world famous and highly appreciated by foreign travellers who have been coming to Italy since the Middle Ages, to see and admire the precious relics of the past, to taste the many dishes of regional cuisine and then enjoy winter sports in the many Alpine and Apennine resorts and, in summer, the warm sun that tans the bodies on the beaches that surround our peninsula.

However, if Italian cuisine enjoys great fame, the credit goes above all to the many wonderful products that nature and the wisdom of women and men have been capable of producing, handing them down from one generation to another and making them available also to guests and food lovers from other countries. The Italian countryside has been fertile and generous in fruit since the times of Magna Graecia, over 2500 years ago. Already then in the southern regions, colonized by the Greeks, excellent wheat was produced, and vines and olives and numerous fruit trees were cultivated. Over time, the maritime republics, in particular Venice, Genoa, Pisa and Amalfi, have established commercial relations with many European, Asian and African countries, bringing home the good and the beautiful they found in the ports they visited.

Prouds offood our products BY GIAMPIERO RORATO

And so, in addition to oriental spices, the products discovered by Christopher Columbus in the Americas arrived in Italy; corn, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, beans and much more, enriching agriculture with new products and kitchens with important new foods. From a long history and expert experiences, Italy has been constantly enriched with precious raw food materials, to which the numerous products that have always existed here must be added, thanks to animal breeding, flocks, cattle, pigs, courtyard animals. And, precisely from these farms, the skill of women and men in the continuity of ancient experiences, has produced numerous types of dairy products and cheeses from cow’s milk; from butter to mozzarella, from casatella to the famous grana cheese, in particular Parmigiano Reggiano, Padano, Trentingrana. And then, since ancient times, from pork, hams and cured meats have been obtained that still characterise the Italian regional tables very well today. Italian cuisine is born from these products elaborated and refined by skilled artisans and solid and reliable agri-food industries which, together with the experience and professionalism of the operators, combine a recognised love for the land and for the sustainability of food.

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ARTICLES

SUMMARY

RECIPES

p.16

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Made in Italy CHOICE OF QUALITY BY DR. MARISA CAMMARANO, NUTRITIONIST BIOLOGIST

p.22

The importance of mozzarella on pizza:

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WHICH ONE TO CHOOSE? BY DR. MARISA CAMMARANO, NUTRITIONIST BIOLOGIST

PDO Campania Buffalo Mozzarella and the Protection Consortium

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BY DAVID MANDOLIN

p.28

p.14

PDO oil, a journey through the Italian regional excellences

Riccardo La Rosa

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Gems of Italy: Fiordilatte BY CATERINA VIANELLO

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

p.26

Rosa Citro

p.38

p.41

Interview with Ivano Vacondio,

interview with Dr. Stefano Vaccari, Vaccari,

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PRESIDENT OF FEDERALIMENTARE BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

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HEAD OF DEPARTMENT ICQRF CURATED BY DAVID MANDOLIN

p.44

Enzo Coccia

p.56

Arcangelo Zulli

p.46

Parma ham and the Protection Consortium

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BY CATERINA ORLANDI

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Parmigiano Reggiano BY EDITORIAL STAFF

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1. Made in Italy/ choice of quality

BY DR. MARISA CAMMARANO, NUTRITIONIST BIOLOGIST

BY ADMITTING, ABSURDLY (REDUCTIO AD ABSURDUM), AS IS DONE IN MATHEMATICAL LANGUAGE, THE THEORY THAT QUALITY DOES NOT MATTER, WE WILL PROVE EXACTLY THE OPPOSITE.

This can be shown with a very simple reasoning and, that is, by admitting that customers do not know how to recognise quality, or rather, customers do not know what quality really is. The customer, with a few exceptions, does not have much specific knowledge when it comes to food and its quality. Out of an average of 100 people, at least 95 would not be able to blindly recognise a pork fillet from a beef fillet, a sea bass from a sea bream or a lemon from a ripe lime. The customer, in fact, 95 times out of 100, does not even know what is on their plate and, perhaps, does not even care that much. This is because their palate is not sufficiently trained, because they have never bothered to learn to recognise the difference between the various foods and because, basically, they have something else on their mind that they consider more important.

So, what is it that really matters? What really matters is the perception of quality. That is, basically, it doesn't matter what the customer has in the pot, but what he thinks he has in the pot does. In fact, the quality strongly depends on the perception we have of it. As an example, suppose you are in a pizzeria and order a margherita from two different menus. Let's imagine these two scenarios:

FROM MENU 1 MARGHERITA: € 3.50 INGREDIENTS: TOMATO, MOZZARELLA, BASIL THE REACTION OF THE AVERAGE CUSTOMER IN FRONT OF SUCH A STATEMENT IS: "OK, THE USUAL MARGHERITA" FROM MENU 2 MARGHERITA: € 5 INGREDIENTS: SAN MARZANO PDO TOMATO SAUCE, PDO BUFFALO MOZZARELLA FROM CAMPANIA, RAW EVO OIL FROM THE SALERNITAN HILLS PDO, FRESH BASIL LEAVES. THE REACTION OF THE AVERAGE CUSTOMER IN FRONT OF SUCH A STATEMENT: "WOW, THIS REALLY IS A MARGHERITA!"

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1. MADE IN ITALY, CHOICE OF QUALITY

Italian and European quality marks

Same ingredients, same pizza, but different perception of quality and, we can say, with different results: on average, the customer will appreciate more the margherita taken from menu number 2. To prove that all this really happens, just repeat the experiment in your own pizzeria and check the results for yourself. All this does not mean, of course, that you have to make fun of the customer by writing on the menu that you use ingredients that are not actually used. It is simply necessary to tell the truth, said in such a way as to exploit the perception of quality in the most benign way of the term. And this is the exact reason why you need to buy first choice ingredients. By doing this in fact: 1. It is possible to "exploit" the perception of quality to one's advantage, when, on the other hand, buying second or third choice ingredients this certainly cannot be the case. Let's imagine describing a pizza margherita by saying: «large-scale distribution tomato sauce, the cheapest one, and German mozzarella, the one made in a slab that is cut with a "machete"» would not be the best. In short, buying a first-choice product gives the restaurateur the opportunity to say that they are first-choice.

2. It differentiates from the other competitors who shop at cash & carry and try to spend little to resell for a lot, effectively defrauding their unsuspecting customers. Therefore, after reasoning, starting from the absurd theory that quality does not matter, it is shown, in conclusion, that the concept of quality is essential to the quality of the food itself and the raw materials used to make a pizza or a dish. What changes, therefore, is not the dish prepared, but how it is communicated and consequently perceived. And, to do this, it becomes increasingly important to focus on uniqueness, specialisation, the ability to stand out in a particular sector and therefore have conditions that can and facilitate the art of marketing well, to ensure that customers choose this restaurant, this pizzeria rather than the others, transforming the simple act of eating into an unmissable and unique experience. Despite the economic crisis that has hit Italy and Europe since 2008, data from the FIPE (Italian Federation of public businesses), in fact, there has been a growth (excluding the lockdown) in Italian food consumption outside the home. In the whole calendar year 2017, for example, almost 40 million Italians ate meals in

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BY DR. MARISA CAMMARANO, NUTRITIONIST BIOLOGIST

restaurants: this means that the desire to eat well has not faded, not even with the economic crisis. This data therefore indicates that Italian restaurateurs who want to stand out from the competition must inevitably raise the bar higher and higher to the top, in order to offer quality products. When going to a restaurant, 90% of Italians, in fact, prefer quality over quantity.

THIS MEANS THAT BETWEEN CHEAP GENERIC SPAGHETTI WITH TOMATO SAUCE AND SPAGHETTI WITH PACHINO TOMATOES IGP (PROTECTED GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION), THE MAJORITY OF CUSTOMERS WILL IMMEDIATELY CHOOSE THE LATTER, EVEN IF IT COSTS MORE. It would seem like a contradiction, something strange, but in reality, it is not. There is a lot of focus on quality, and it is a good thing, but this should now have become normal in the world of catering. It is necessary to be aware of the importance of always looking for good ingredients with the DOC, PDO, DOCG, PGI, IGT, TSG, PAT and Bio marks, so as to always offer the best to its customers. Taking a concrete example, an Extra Virgin Olive Oil PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), rather than a Parmigiano Reggiano or a good Docg wine (Designation of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin), really make the difference on the table compared to similar products without the aforemen-

tioned mark. It could also be said that the quality and importance of the relationship between taste and ingredients are the necessary condition to enhance the tradition of Italian cuisine. Not surprisingly, where the quality of the ingredients is overshadowed, such as in many self-styled Italian restaurants abroad, final results are obtained that have very little to do with the Italian gastronomic tradition. In this regard, just look at the economic and image damage of the phenomenon of Italian sounding that is spreading in foreign countries. Italian chefs, like professional pizza chefs, are or should be experts in good cuisine, but also ambassadors of Italian quality in the world, and this not for simple attachment to tradition, but because good dishes are also those that feed business and transform a normal restaurant or pizzeria, into a successful restaurant or pizzeria.

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What interests us most for the purposes of the discussion on the relationship between flavour and ingredients is, however, the attention to the quality of the food. In fact, as many as 77% of the interviewees would have indicated quality as the main criterion on the basis of which to choose a given restaurant. In short, quality comes before price: this means that many Italians are also willing to pay a little more, in order not to give up on eating well and healthily. In fact, it is necessary, in a significant way, to begin to appreciate, at least in Italy, slow food, 0 km products and to pay increasing attention to the origin of the food above all.

THE LOW QUALITY OF FOOD IS ALSO ONE OF THE MAIN CAUSES OF THE FACT THAT ABROAD, BUT, UNFORTUNATELY, ALSO IN ITALY, IT IS VERY EASY TO FIND TYPICAL ITALIAN DISHES THAT ARE INEDIBLE, ALBEIT MADE BY APPLYING ITALIAN RECIPES TO THE LETTER. To be clear, a blue, German mozzarella can never be comparable to a buffalo mozzarella from Campania DOC, and so on. Unfortunately, many restaurateurs choose to save on the quality of raw materials, perhaps even and for the most part coming from abroad, but it is a wrong decision, as the knowledge and wisdom in working quality ingredients really makes the difference within a world, that of catering, marked by

1. MADE IN ITALY, CHOICE OF QUALITY

increasingly fierce competition. Therefore, "Made in Italy" is not just a brand, it is above all a philosophy, a culture, a story: choosing a certified Italian product means buying something unique that has all the flavour of the beautiful Italy.

Italian and European quality marks

MADE IN ITALY IS SAFER: ITALY HAS THE STRICTEST AND MOST ACCURATE CONTROL SYSTEM IN THE WORLD AT ALL STAGES OF THE PRODUCTION CHAIN. IN FACT, OUR COUNTRY IS AMONG THOSE WITH THE HIGHEST NUMBER OF CONTROLLED AND PROTECTED PRODUCTS IN EUROPE. On the other hand, imported raw materials are not so guaranteed. Furthermore, from the production of raw materials to processing, logistics and sale: an Italian product gives work in our country along the entire production chain. Buying a 100% Italian product means appreciating our land and making an important contribution to our economy, ensuring that our companies continue to develop. All Italian supply chains, in fact, increase the GDP (Gross Domestic Product), unlike production delocalisation which moves the creation of shared wealth outside our country. Any 100% Italian object allows you to give the right value to all the components of the production chain, from origin to sale. Those who import them or use non-Italian raw materials or

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BY DR. MARISA CAMMARANO, NUTRITIONIST BIOLOGIST

semi-finished products pay much less for them. And the consumer has a right to know. The real made in Italy guarantees to producers of raw materials, for example to farmers and breeders, the margins to make their business profitable. The foods of our food tradition are closely linked to locally grown ingredients and therefore guarantee the protection of biodiversity. Furthermore, the added value that is created in the first links of the supply chains can guarantee a sufficient income for farmers and prevent the countryside from depopulating, as unfortunately is happening in many areas of Italy. Italian food safety has been and continues to be a strong point for the good quality of food, so much so that we are recognised as a leader in this sector thanks also to our primacy as a long-living and healthy people. In recent weeks there have been many reports from Rasff (Rapid Alert System for Food and Feed) for various foods such as those for the high content of cyanide in sweet almonds from Pakistan or mercury in slices of frozen and breaded blue shark from Spain; mercury in slices of frozen dogfish and swordfish from Portugal; mercury in creatine food supplement from Germany. Other reports concern aflatoxins (B1) in pistachio paste intended for the preparation of ice cream and confectionery,

prepared in Germany, with raw materials from abroad; Listeria monocytogenes in raw milk goat cheese from France; mercury in frozen swordfish from the UK; mercury in frozen loins, from Indonesia; food outbreak caused by histamine in vacuum packed and frozen yellow fin tuna loins from Spain. All these food warnings on foreign foods must convince us more and more to buy certified Italian products. We can certainly say that certified products have a superior quality, guaranteed by traditional and expert processes, handed down over time, which ensure perfection in every detail of the product.

THE CHOICE OF PRODUCTS MADE IN ITALY AND, THEREFORE, THE CERTIFICATION WILL HELP TO STRONGLY CONTRAST THE COUNTERFEITING OF ITALIAN PRODUCTS, AS WELL AS THE IMPORT OF FOOD PRODUCED ABROAD, LABELED IN ITALY AND FINALLY SOLD AS MADE IN ITALY. In fact, every product that boasts a PDO, DOC etc certification, has obtained recognition from the European Union after a very long and severe process, and its origin and processing is controlled by a body authorised by the Ministry of Agriculture. Therefore, you do not "run away", and you face very heavy criminal sanctions in cases of falsification or fraud.

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It's no secret: eating quality, genuine Italian foods of guaranteed origin, obviously does not make us immortal, but it certainly helps us to keep our body in good health.

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IT'S COMING

April, 5, 6, 7 29th edition

World Pizza Championship Palaverdi, Parma Registrations AND REGISTRATION: are open RULES www.worldpizzachampionship.com CONTACTS - PHONE: info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it Tel +39 0421 83148

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RECIPES

RICCARDO LA ROSA

Riccardo La Rosa

Riccardo La Rosa is a young 32-year-old pizza chef with passion and a constant desire to improve. He is not the son of an artist: his initial education and professional training is completely different but in 2011, driven by wanting to share an experience as a restaurateur with his father, he left his previous job and attended a course for pizza chefs. A native of Levanto, Riccardo opened his pizzeria La Picea, a name that the ancient Romans gave to what was their pizza of the time: an unleavened flatbread flavoured with spices and oil. He was immediately electrified by his love for baking, began to study and practice, humbly being supported by more experienced colleagues. At the same time, his desire to confront his colleagues pushed him to compete in various international competitions, leading him to reach prestigious goals: the main one is the title of World Classic Pizza Champion in 2019, the year in which he also obtained the Triathlon award in the same event (for the sum of the 3 highest scores in three cooking competitions) and the Parmigiano Reggiano award, for the best pizza prepared with this ingredient. In the meantime, in December 2016 he successfully passed the Master Instructor course with the Certified Training Course of the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. His doughs are characterised by a base with type 2 flour with re-milled semolina and then a mixture of 3 or 4 flours - depending on the type of product - ground, wholemeal and semi-wholemeal.

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PRE-DOUGH (BIGA): flour

2.5 kg (5 lb / 8 oz)

water 1100 ml (2.42 lb / 37.2 us fl oz / 38.7 uk fl oz) fresh yeast

250 gr (0,55 lb / 8.8 oz)

DOUGH: type 2 flour semolina

1.5 kg (3 lb / 5 oz)

500 gr (1,1 lb / 17.6 oz)

extra virgin olive oil salt

135 gr (0,3 lb / 4.76 oz)

water 2150 ml (4,73 lb / 72.7 us fl oz / 75.7 uk fl oz) TOPPING: mozzarella in entry

40 gr (0,09 lb / 1.41 oz)

yellow cherry tomatoes

30 gr (0,06 lb / 1 oz)

datterino tomatoes 30 gr (0,06 lb / 1 oz) pesto

50 gr (0,11 lb / 1.76 oz)

pine nuts

8 gr (0,02 lb / 0.3 oz)

heart of burrata

120 gr (0,26 lb / 4.2 oz)

Ligurian scents (PIZZA PROFUMI LIGURI) Method Pre-dough: Previously dissolve the yeast in water and put everything in the mixer. Add the flour and run the mixer at speed 1 for about 4 minutes until the dough is "raw" but not floury. Remove the dough at a temperature of 21 °C (69.8°F) and let it rest for about 1820 hours at a temperature of 18 °(64.4°F). Dough: Put 1800 ml (60.9 us fl oz, 63.4 uk fl oz) of water in the mixer, add the flour and the chariot and spin for 4 minutes, add the salt and slowly the remaining 350 ml (11.8 us fl oz, 12.3 uk fl oz) of water until absorbed. Finally add the oil. Knead for about 12 minutes. Close the dough, let it rest for 10 minutes and prepare the 250 g (8.8 oz) balls. This mixture can be used the same day or stored in the fridge and used in the following 24 hours. Topping: Once the pizza is taken out of the oven, add 120 g (4.2 oz) of heart of burrata.

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BY DAVID MANDOLIN

PDO Campania Buffalo Mozzarella and the Protection Consortium

TH E P ROT ECT I ON CO N SO RT I U M Established in 1981, it made it possible to obtain and register the designation of origin. It is the only body recognized by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food, Forestry and Tourism Policies for the protection, supervision, enhancement and promotion of PDO Campania Buffalo Mozzarella. Since 1st July 2016, the Consortium has been based at the Regie Cavallerizze of the Royal Palace of Caserta, thanks to a collaboration agreement - for the first time in Italy - between cultural heritage and agri-food excellence. The headquarters of the Consortium inside the Royal Palace of Caserta represents a "return" to the origins; it was in fact the Bourbons who developed the first experimental dairy and bred buffalo with a stable register, where each animal was given a name, which resembled the characters of the court.

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P DO CA MPA N IA BUF FALO MOZZ A RE LL A The buffalo mozzarella from Campania is one of the most important PDO brands in central-southern Italy: it is found in Campania (provinces of Caserta, Salerno, Naples and Benevento); in Lazio (provinces of Latina, Frosinone and Rome); in the province of Foggia (Puglia); in the municipality of Venafro (Molise). It should be noted that the provinces of Caserta and Salerno represent about 90% of the PDO certified production. In the PDO area there are 3 National Parks (Circeo, Cilento and Gargano) and 10 Regional Parks.

CAMPANIA BUFFALO MOZZARELLA

History The first historical documents on mozzarella testify how, in the twelfth century, the monks of the monastery of San Lorenzo in Capua used to offer a cheese called mozza or provatura, accompanied by a piece of bread, to pilgrims, who went in procession.

T H E FACTS The term mozzarella derives from the 17 — verb 'to cut', which consists of cutting the spun dough manually with the index finger and thumb. The word 'mozzarella' is considered a generic term by international food law (such as pizza, pasta, etc.), used all over the world for products with no link with historical, cultural or artisan traditions. The PDO trademark has allowed the original product, its territory and above all the unmistakable flavour to be known, but above all it has allowed the consumer to distinguish non-certified mozzarella from the buffalo mozzarella from Campania which is subject to many controls, from the breeding of the buffalo up to the sale to the consumer. The buffalo mozzarella from Campania is the only mozzarella on the market to have obtained European recognition of the PDO. The production specification allows the use exclusively of fresh whole buffalo milk from farms in the PDO area: about 4 liters of buffalo milk are needed to obtain 1 kg of Buffalo Mozzarella from Campania.

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THE PACKAGI N G PDO Campania Buffalo Mozzarella, by law (Legislative Decree 109/92, art. 23), must be sold only if pre-packaged at the origin (heat-sealed bags, trays, glasses, etc.).

THE WORDING — 18 All mozzarella placed on the market with the packaging bearing the denomination “Mozzarella di Bufala”, “Mozzarella bufalina”, etc., are NOT PDO certified and are denominations NOT permitted by law. T H E BRA N DS Each package must bear the following information: • the trademarks of the Protection Consortium; • trademarks of the PDO; • Campania Buffalo Mozzarella denomination; • details of national law (D.P.C.M. 10/5/93) and community (EC Reg. N.1107/96); • authorisation number of the dairy (AUT. CONSORZIO TUTELA N. 000/00/0000).

BY DAVID MANDOLIN

TH E N UT RI T I O N AL VALU ES Average values for 100 g (3.53 oz) of product: ENERGY VALUE: 288 KCAL PROTEIN: 17 g (0.6 oz) CARBOHYDRATES: 0.4g (0.014 oz) FATS: 24 g (0.85 oz) PHOSPHORUS: 320 mg (45% RDA) CALCIUM: 245mg (35% RDA) CHOLESTEROL: <50/60 mg LACTOSE: <0.4 G

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CAMPANIA BUFFALO MOZZARELLA

Storage - It is recommended to consume it on the day of purchase; otherwise, keep in a cool place (10-15°C, 50-59°F), always immersed in its preserving liquid. If put in the fridge, it must be taken out well in advance to consume it at room temperature and enjoy its full flavour. T H E F I VE ST EP S TO EN JO Y I T AT I TS B EST

1 Production ACIDIFICATION AND COAGULATION The coagulation is preceded by the addition in the milk, previously brought to a temperature between 33 and 39 ° C (91.4°F – 102.2°F), of natural whey (called cizza) coming from the same processing of the previous day. This addition serves to make the milk active and ready for immediate and subsequent coagulation which is carried out in boilers or multipurpose steel, through the exclusive use of natural calf rennet. B RE A K I N G A ND MATUR ATION OF CURD. After a few minutes that the milk has congealed due to the intervention of the rennet, the cheesy lumps are broken with a tool called "thorn" which reduces them to a size just larger than a walnut. From this moment on, the separation between the solid and liquid phases of milk occurs (syneresis). The liquid part, then removed, is called "sweet whey", while the solid part is called curd. The latter is left to acidify under whey until it is defined "ripe" or "ready" for spinning by the dairyman, through the spinning test he or she personally performs.

Always leave it immersed in its preserving liquid until the moment of consumption and even afterwards if it is left over. If bought in the refrigerated counter, at a temperature of 4 ° C (39°F), it must be brought back to a temperature of 18-20 ° C (64-68°F) before consumption. You can easily get the result by soaking it in hot water (35-40 °C/95-104°F) for 10 minutes. If bought off the counter, keep the package in fresh water (15 °C/ 59°F) in summer and warm (18-20°C /64-68°F) in winter. It should be eaten fresh, but if you want to consume it after 3-4 days it is advisable to put it in the fridge with all the preserving liquid. If you want to use it in the kitchen as an ingredient in other dishes, it should be removed from the preserving liquid and put in the fridge to remove excess water and thus gain the right consistency.

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PDO Campania Buffalo Mozzarella is perfect for pizza and at the same time lends itself to numerous uses in Italian cuisine. Below is a proposal designed to enhance this product in a different way, the result of the craftsmanship and gastronomic heritage of our magnificent Italy.

Slices// Chef Maria Rosaria Slices

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Stellato: Tortello with buffalo ricotta in seafood soup.

Ingredients for 4 people: For the egg pasta 250 g (8.82 oz) flour, 8 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon water, 1 pinch of salt, butter to taste, lemon thyme to taste. For the filling: 200 g (7.05 oz) of buffalo ricotta, 1 grated lemon, pepper to taste, extra virgin olive oil to taste. For the fish soup: 4 red mullets, 4 small tub gurnards, 8 red prawns. Then 1 carrot, 1 celery stick, 1 shallot, 100 ml ( 3.52 fl oz UK, 3.38 fl oz US) white wine, 400 g (14.1 oz) of ice, a teaspoon of tomato paste.

METHOD For the filled pasta, combine all the ingredients and mix well until it is smooth. Let it rest for an hour in the fridge, then roll out the sheet of 2mm and form squares 5cm by 5cm (2 inches by 2 inches) and place inside a teaspoon of ricotta mixed with extra virgin olive oil, pepper and lemon. Give the classic shape of the tortello and put in the freezer. For the soup, clean the prawns and other fish. Brown the prawn carcasses, the carrots and onions together with the celery, extra virgin olive oil. Deglaze with white wine, when it has evaporated cover with ice and leave to cook. The thermal shock allows the prawn juices to come out gently and without burning from the heads. Once the ice has melted, let it cook for half an hour. Filter and add to the tomato paste and continue cooking until it becomes a silky liquid.

Sear the fillets of mullet and gurnard first on the meat side and then on the skin; with the prawns make a tartare seasoned with oil, salt and lemon and place in the fridge. Boil salted water. Drop the tortelli and once drained put in a pan with a small knob of butter and lemon thyme. Serve in a deep plate with tortelli around and place the prawn tartare near them on the bottom of the plate. Finally, pour in the hot shrimp sauce. To finish the seared fish fillets, a few leaves of thyme, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and enjoy your meal.

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BY DR. MARISA CAMMARANO, NUTRITIONIST BIOLOGIST

The importance of mozzarella on pizza: 22

Pizza with tomato and mozzarella is a great success of Italian cuisine. There is no place in the world where pizza is not known and appreciated, so much so, that pizza was declared a UNESCO World Heritage in 2017. The origins of pizza, as many know, are Neapolitan. Pizza Margherita was created by a Neapolitan chef named Raffaele Esposito who, in homage to Queen Margherita, prepared the first Margherita pizza with tomato, oil, mozzarella and basil. From that moment on, the pizza Margherita and then the many variations, have had a worldwide and timeless success. The important thing for a successful pizza is that all the ingredients are fresh and genuine. In addition to tomato, the main ingredient is mozzarella. In fact, mozzarella is one of the symbols of Italian cuisine and certainly one of the fundamental ingredients of pizza

which one to choose? and, during cooking in the oven, melts and creates the perfect combination to bind the flavours. Sometimes even the best pizza chefs find themselves grappling with a fateful question:

«What mozzarella to use for pizza?». In fact, since it is one of the most popular stretched curd cheeses of Italian gastronomy, there are different types and each of them differs according to how they are consumed, the quantity of whey present

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and the resistance to high temperatures. Usually, three types of mozzarella are used in pizzerias: the typical mozzarella for pizza, fiordilatte or buffalo mozzarella. But which type of mozzarella is best suited for pizza? There is no single answer: the choice of mozzarella depends a lot on the type of dough and the preferences of each individual. The classic mozzarella for pizza is different from table mozzarella: it has an elongated and compact shape, it has less fat and contains less water, a characteristic that makes it an ingredient suitable for the preparation of pizza, as it does not need to be drained and does not undergo significant whey leaks during cooking, a situation which, in fact, could ruin the entire pizza if it is not cooked in an oven powerful enough to be able to dry the dough. In terms of taste, it is undeniable that this type of dairy product, compared to other mozzarella, has a less decisive flavour, especially if the quality is not excellent. Fiordilatte mozzarella is a product prepared exclusively with cow's milk and boasts a creamy and less dry consistency than pizza mozzarella. Produced exclusively in some regions of Central and Southern Italy, it has a unique taste, different from the classic table mozzarella. Recognized as a "PDO" product, on pizza it has a more marked taste and is typically used as an ingredient in the traditional Neapolitan pizza recipe. Buffalo mozzarella is a dairy product made with buffalo milk, traditionally typical of the Campania region. Unlike the other mozzarella used for pizza, this is usually not cooked, but placed on the pizza when it comes out of the oven. Produced in different shapes, both round and braided, and marketed with accompanying liquid, buffalo mozzarella is used in pizzerias to offer a variant to the classic pizza margherita. It has a stronger taste than other

MOZZARELLA ON PIZZA

types of mozzarella, with a high level of whey. Therefore, mozzarella for pizza contains less fat than table mozzarella. In fact, it has a quantity of fat between 10% and 15%. In this way, even if melted at high temperatures, it does not cause the ingredients to float. Table mozzarella, on the other hand, has a quantity of fat of 20%, as its main purpose is not to be cooked at high temperatures, and its taste is thus more intense. The difference is also visible in the colour of the mozzarella, in fact, the one for the pizza will have a different colour, more tending to yellow, if compared with the table one. The mozzarella for pizza also contains less water than the table one, it has an elongated and compact shape, without the presence of the liquid in the package. The table one, on the other hand, has the classic rounded shape and is immersed in a mixture of water 23 — and whey. Mozzarella for pizza has a

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reduced dose of whey because otherwise it would wet the dough during cooking, leaving it raw, while the table mozzarella is more palatable thanks to its large amount of whey. The taste of a mozzarella for pizza is very different from that of table mozzarella. It hasa much less defined flavour, and is pastier. However, this allows it to be processed more easily. While the table one has a more decisive flavour, similar to that of milk, and is very creamy on the palate. Finding a quality mozzarella often turns out to be a challenge, and if we talk about finding the best mozzarella for pizza, the matter becomes even more complicated. Many pizza makers, in fact, use a particular type of mozzarella produced from curd, and not from fresh milk. Curd mozzarella is so popular because, compared to — 24 traditional mozzarella, it costs less and has a higher yield, but when the pizza cools, the stretched curd cheese takes on the appearance of a plastic plate. In fact, many products obtained from curd, imported or produced in Italy, when the pizza cools have a similar appearance to plastic and this does not appeal to the consumer. As is known, the spinning of mozzarella in pizza is fundamental. The main problem is to keep the spinning after cooking, when the temperature is below 50 °C / 122°F. The question, however, is not only a matter of cost, although in some periods of the year the prices of curds are very affordable, while in others the savings are not so obvious. The great convenience lies in the ease of use: the curd is often sold chopped and ready to use, and this saves time for the pizza chef. Another fundamental factor for the pizza chef is the humidity of the mozzarella. The humidity of mozzarella obtained from curd is generally standardised and is optimal for

BY DR. MARISA CAMMARANO, NUTRITIONIST BIOLOGIST

the preparation of pizza, and this makes the job easier. Mozzarella made from fresh milk with low humidity is not impossible to find, but it is more expensive. But, in the end, is there a way for the consumer to understand what kind of processing the mozzarella used for pizza has undergone? If it was made with fresh milk or preserved curd? The answer is simple: no. Even the new decree on the origin of milk, to which producers will soon have to adapt, will make it possible to know the origin of the raw material of the mozzarella purchased at the supermarket, but no restaurateur will be obliged to write the type of processing used on the menu. At the moment, the only sure way to distinguish mozzarella produced with the two systems remains the laboratory test which can, however, only be done on unbaked products. There is only one way to resolve the dispute: bring the issue of the freshness of the raw material to the attention of the legislator and not just the origin.

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The creation of two categories was proposed, unsuccessfully: "fresh milk mozzarella", alongside the normal "mozzarella". It is a question of differentiating the product categories as has been done for years for fresh milk, proposed as high quality pasteurised or simply pasteurised. In this way the pizzeria and the restaurant could show the type of mozzarella on the menu, and the consumer would have the certainty of being in front of a high-quality product in compliance with "classic" technology. To obtain a successful pizza, therefore, it is a must to buy a quality mozzarella. The best for pizza is fiordilatte mozzarella, made with Italian cow's milk. The success of the pizza is mostly due to the humidity of the mozzarella. In fact, the greatest risk, otherwise, will be a dough that is too wet in the center, with a burnt edge on the outside. This is a problem that most likely affects those who use an electric or gas oven that does not reach high temperatures. Those who use a classic

MOZZARELLA ON PIZZA

wood-burning oven, where temperatures can even reach 400°C / 752°F and the pizza cooks perfectly in a couple of minutes, do not have this problem. Fiordilatte, on the other hand, the "real" one made exclusively with cow's milk is a good product, but if you don't have a wood-burning oven you will have the same problem of the ingredients floating on the pizza, as it releases a lot of whey during cooking. Actually, what makes this type of mozzarella tasty to our palate is precisely the whey contained in it, so trying to solve the problem by putting it to drain does not help. This is even more true for buffalo mozzarella which has its own strength in the whey contained in it, which gives it an excellent flavour. Unfortunately, to make it suitable for the purpose, it has to be drained for several hours to separate it from the whey, but with the result of finding a chewy mozzarella on the pizza, or a “flooded” pizza. For all those who do not want to give up the buffalo, the advice is to add it when cooked, perhaps chopping it coarsely on top of your pizza. But our Latin ancestors said

"De Gustibus non est disputandum".

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RECIPES

ROSA CITRO

Rosa Citro

By Alfonso Del Forno

Gluten-free pizza has made great progress in recent years, reaching a very high overall quality. The new flours introduced on the market and the in-depth study of new generation pizza makers are the basis of this transformation of the sector. Born as a substitute for traditional pizza, without paying too much attention to quality, current productions embarrass many traditional pizzas. Among the architects of this gluten free revolution, we find Rosa Citro, Salerno pizza maker who asserts herself on a national scale. “My path as a pizza maker was born right here, in the pizzeria “La pizza di Aniello Manzi”, my husband. My challenge in the gluten-free sector was a coincidence. I was always trying to improve the work of my collaborators and I was not very happy with what I saw. One day I looked in the mirror and decided it was time to enter the field. This world fascinates me a lot. From then on, we started working on the new doughs and, test after test, we managed to reach

the levels that can be seen today. In the room where I prepare the round pizza I work with a direct dough, with 90% hydration, which I leave to rise and then mature in the cell for two days. Instead, for the gluten-free pan pizza proposal we have a strong hydration, we are talking about 110%. There too, I prepare a direct dough, which is immediately worked and prepared. The two doughs have different cooking times because we use the wood oven for the round, while the pizza in the pan is cooked in the electric oven."

Cilento pizza

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(PIZZA CILENTANA)

Method

DOUGH: water salt

1 litre (2,2 lb / 33.8 us fl oz / 35.1 uk fl oz) 20 gr (0,04 lb / 0.7 oz)

yeast

2 gr (0,004 lb / 0.07 oz)

buckwheat

50 gr (0,11 lb / 1.76 oz)

gluten-free flour oil

110 gr (0,24 lb / 3.88 oz)

950 gr (2,1 lb / 33.5 oz)

I put the water in the planetary mixer at a temperature of about 4 °C / 39.2°F. I dissolve the yeast and add the flours. I let the planetary mixer work in first speed for at least 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, add the salt to the dough and let it knead for another 10 minutes at second speed. At the end of the second ten minutes, I add the oil and let the machine run at the third speed. Once the dough is finished, I let it rest for ten minutes and transfer it to a container. I put in the fridge and let the dough mature for 24 hours at a temperature that varies between 4-6°C / 39.2-42.8°F. After 24 hours the dough is ready. I already bake the disc of dough with the fiordilatte. On exit, I add the raw ham, figs and walnuts. My pizza is cooked in a wood oven at a temperature of 350 to 380 °C (662716°F) for about two or three minutes. The final result will be a crisp and very light dry pizza.

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BY CATERINA VIANELLO

PDO oil, a journey through the Italian regional excellences

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With over 500 cultivars, or 40% of all those known globally, Italy boasts a remarkable record in terms of oil that allows it to beat Spain and Greece. The credit goes to environmental and geographical factors that define a complex territory, but also to the tradition of cultivation and processing. Italy

is therefore able to count about fifty PDO or PGI marked extra virgin olive oils, linked to the territory. It is impossible to describe them all, due to lack of space. However, from north to south, here is a rundown on some of the marked oil varieties, each by reference region.

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LOMBARDY Garda oil and Laghi Lombardi oil are the PDOs of the region. The former, possibly accompanied by the additional indications Eastern or Brescian, is at least 55% from the Casaliva, Frantoio and Leccino varieties. It has a more or less intense green to yellow colour, medium or light fruity smell, fruity flavour with notes of sweet and a typical almond aftertaste. Unmistakable on the palate, with overall harmony and light and balanced aromas. The production area of Laghi Lombardi oil is limited to some municipalities in the provinces of Brescia and Bergamo for the geographical indication "Sebino" and the provinces of Como and Lecco for the geographical indication "Lario". The varieties used are Leccino, Frantoio, Casaliva, Pendolino and Sbresa. Sebino has a green-yellow colour, a light fruity smell and a slightly bitter and spicy fruity flavour. The Lario is similar, with sensory differences that are minimal nuances. VENETO Together with Lombardy and Trentino, Veneto is one of the regions where Garda PDO oil is produced. Altogether there are 67 municipalities spread across the three regions, from which the three geographical denominations derive: Bresciano, Orientale and Trentino. It is worth remembering that the cultivation of olive trees in the Garda area dates back to very ancient times, as evidenced by the archaeological finds from the Bronze Age and ancient Roman oil mills.

PDO OIL

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FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Obtained from the Belica or Bianchera varieties for at least 20%, and from Carbona, Leccio del Corno, Leccino, Frantoio, Maurino and Pendolino, Tergeste has a golden-green colour, medium fruity smell and fruity flavour, with a light to medium spicy sensation, which gives an overall delicacy and balance.

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BY CATERINA VIANELLO

LIGURIA The Riviera Ligure PDO is a tribute to the Taggiasca cultivar, followed by Lavagnina, Lantesca, Castelnovina, Razzola and Pignola. To the denomination are added Riviera dei Fiori, Riviera del Ponente Savonese, Riviera di Levante, depending on the area of production and the different percentage of specific varieties in the olive groves. Riviera dei Fiori has a yellow colour, a ripe fruity smell, a sweet fruity flavour; Riviera del Ponente Savonese has a yellow-green colour, and the same smell and taste as Riviera dei Fiori. Riviera di Levante, with a green-yellow colour, has a fruity, sweet flavour but with a slight bitter and spicy sensation. TUSCANY It is certainly the most productive region in Central Italy, covering almost 30% of national production. Among others, the Chianti Classico is certainly worth mentioning, obtained from the Leccino, Frantoio, Correggiolo and Moraiolo varieties, and whose production area includes numerous municipalities in the provinces of Siena and Florence. It has an intense green colour, with possible golden shades. The scent is medium intense with a clear olive aroma, while the flavour is decidedly spicy, with a bitter aftertaste of artichoke and thistle. Then there is the Lucca (obtained from Frantoio, Frantoiano or Frantoiana, for the most part, and Leccino varieties). It has a yellow colour with more or less intense green tones, a medium scent of olive and a sweet taste, with a possible spicy or bitter sensation. Finally, Terre di Siena: the varieties used are at least two among Frantoio, Correggiolo, Leccino and Moraiolo. The colour ranges from green to yellow, the smell is fruity while the flavour goes towards spiciness.

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PARMA PDO OILHAM

UMBRIA With a production area that covers the entire region, Umbria PDO uses the Moraiolo, San Felice, Rajo, Dolce Agogia, Pendolino, Leccino and Frantoio cultivars. The denomination includes the words Colli Assisi-Spoleto, which has a green-yellow colour, a decidedly fruity smell and a taste in which bitter and spicy notes are detected; Colli Martani, with a fruity but less decisive flavour and smell than the previous one, as well as the Colli Amerini; then Colli del Trasimeno, from green to golden-yellow in colour, lighter in the olfactory notes and in the taste; and Colli Orvietani, green-yellow, fruity with a slight bitter and spicy sensation.

MARCHE 31 — The PGI marked oil bears the name of the region. The cultivars are Ascolana tender, Carboncella, Coroncina, Mignola, Orbetana, Piantone di Falerone, Piantone di Mogliano, Raggia / Raggiola, Rosciola dei Colli Esini and Sargano di Fermo, Frantoio and Leccino, for a yellow / green oil, whose flavour is complex, ranging from fruity to bitter, to spicy, with fresh herbaceous notes. ABRUZZO The Colline Teatine is the pride of Abruzzo: the varieties are Gentile di Chieti, Leccino, Moraiolo and Nebbio. There are two additional geographical mentions, Frentano or Vastese, which differ in terms of production area and different percentage of varieties used. The Frentano has a green colour and golden reflections, herbaceous notes and a fruity flavour, while the Vastese is recognised by hints of leaves, a fruity flavour with a slight bitter sensation.

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LAZIO Sabina Carboncella, Leccino, Raja, Pendolino, Moraiolo, Frantoio, Olivastrone, Salviana, Olivago and Rosciola: these are the cultivars that make up Sabina PDO: yellow-green, it has a fruity and velvety flavour. Canino PDO includes the territory of some municipalities in the province of Viterbo, emerald green with golden reflections, fruity and decisive with a bitter and spicy aftertaste. Still in the province of Viterbo with Tuscia PDO (52 municipalities involved), obtained from the Frantoio, Leccino and Caninese varieties. Emerald green with golden reflections, it has an olive flavour, with an aftertaste that manages to balance bitter and spicy. Finally, the Colline Pontine: Itrana cultivar, to which Frantoio and Leccino are added, for a production area that includes — 32 25 municipalities in the province of Latina, Fruttato, is recognised for its almond aftertaste, herbaceous notes and a hint of green tomato. CAMPANIA We are in the province of Naples for the Penisola Sorrentina (Ogliarola or Minucciola, Rotondella, Frantoio, Leccino varieties). Colour ranging from green to straw yellow, fruity on the nose and palate, and slightly spicy. PUGLIA The provinces of Lecce, Taranto and Brindisi are the background of the Terra d'Otranto: the varieties used are Cellina di Nardò and Ogliarola, which give the oil a medium-fruity aroma and flavour, with a slight hint of bitter and spicy depending on the period of harvest.

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

MOLISE Obtained from the Aurina, Gentile di Larino, Black Olive of Colletorto and Leccino varieties, Molise PDO is produced in the territory of the provinces of Isernia and Campobasso. Yellow-green, it is delicate both on the nose and on the palate. BASILICATA Vulture PDO is the Basilicata marked oil, produced in some municipalities in the province of Potenza. The varieties used are Ogliarola del Vulture, Cima di Melfi, Palmarola, Coratina, Rapollese, Ogliarola del Bradano, Fasolina and Farasana. It is recognised by its amber yellow colour with green reflections, and a flavour of fully ripe olives, sweet or slightly bitter and with hints of spicy. CALABRIA Pale straw yellow-green, delicate on the nose and light on the palate: it’s the Alto Crotonese PDO, produced from Carolea, Pennulara, Borgese, Leccino, Tonda di Strongoli, Cassanese, or Rossanese varieties.

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PDO OIL

SARDINIA A territory that includes the whole region for the homonymous oil, produced with native cultivars (Bosana, Cariasina, Cipressino, Corsicana, Semidana, Nera di Oliena, Pizz 'e Carroga, Semidana, Tonda di Cagliari or Nera di Gonnos). It has a colour ranging from green to yellow, a fruity smell and taste.

SICILY The Etna area gives its name to the homonymous oil, produced with the local cultivar of Nocellara Etnea, together with other native varieties (Tonda Ibla, Olivo di Castiglione, Moresca, Ogliarola Messinese, Brandofino and Biancolilla, Buscionetto Carolea, Calamignara, Giarraffa , Mandanici, Minuta, Nocellara Etnea and Messinese, Verdello, Santagatese). It has a medium intensity, a bitter and medium spicy taste. In the West, on the other hand, there is the Valli Trapanesi, obtained from Nocellara del Belice and Cerasuola: the scent is clean and decisive of olive while the flavour is fruity, slightly bitter and spicy. Finally, the Monti Iblei, from the hinterland (provinces of Ragusa, Syracuse and Catania). Accompanied by the following geographical indications: Monte Lauro, Val d’Anapo, Val Tellaro, Frigintini, Gulfi, Valle dell’Irminio, Calatino, Trigona-Pancali, it has a recognisable hint of tomato.

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BY CATERINA VIANELLO

Gems of Italy: Fiordilatte

The Italian agri-food heritage represents one of the strengths of the national economy: its richness, the diversity that distinguishes it and that derives from the history of the regions of Italy, make it an element capable of being a powerful economic driving force as well as geographic, cultural, environmental and touristic.

Fiordilatte is an illustrious representative of the large family of spun curd cheeses, which constitutes one of the cultural reserves of the Italian dairy tradition and, in particular, of the South.

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Also improperly called mozzarella (which is actually made with buffalo milk), it is a stretched curd cheese made with cow's milk: for those who are passionate about pizza or for those who have made the art of pizza their job, this clarification could perhaps prove unnecessary, since the pizza chef knows all the secrets of their ingredients. In fact, given the confusion that accompanies these two products (Fiordilatte and mozzarella), it is worth remembering that while mozzarella is spun curd cheese made exclusively with buffalo milk from Campania, Fiordilatte is a type of fresh stretched curd cheese, produced with whole cow's milk with the same technique. In our opinion, it does not help to clarify the fact that Fiordilatte is produced with the name Mozzarella TSG (traditional specialty guaranteed) and included in the list of PAT (traditional Italian agri-food products), by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies. Beyond any doubt and as a discriminating factor, the origin of the milk helps us, which - as mentioned - in the case of Fiordilatte, is cow’s milk.

FIORDILATTE

The milk used for production is that of one or more consecutive milkings carried out over a period of sixteen hours, which is delivered raw to the dairy within 24 hours of the first milking. The shape is variable: it ranges from rounded to sphere (also with head and knot) from braid to parallelepiped, depending on the area of origin. The weight varies from small35 — er sizes (20 g / 0.7 oz of the cherry type) to 250 g / 8.8 oz and a diameter of 15-30 cm / 6”-12”. The colour is a beautiful milky-white with straw hues, with tender skin and a smooth, shiny and homogene-

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ous surface. Soft when cut, slightly elastic, it releases a milky, characteristic liquid when pressed and in contact with the knife blade. The flavour is very fresh, of delicately sour milk. Among the best types, it is worth mentioning the "Fior di Latte Southern Apennines", which has been allocated the PDO mark: it is produced in Campania (provinces of Avellino, Benevento, Caserta, Naples and Salerno), Molise (entire province of Campobasso ), Basilicata (Potenza), Calabria (Cosenza), Puglia (Bari, Foggia and Taranto) and in Lazio (provinces of Frosinone and Latina).

BY CATERINA VIANELLO

The processing involves adding a natural whey, from the previous processing, to the heated milk. Mixed, natural liquid calf rennet is added which determines coagulation, at the end of which the curd is broken, which allows to obtain granules the size of a hazelnut. Once the curd has matured, it is reduced into strips: almost boiling water is then added so that spinning can then take place. The cutting can be manual or mechanical, followed by cooling in water, salting and packaging. Spinning undoubtedly represents the most delicate phase of processing: in fact, the experience and skills of the dairyman emerge. The advice is to consume the very fresh Fiordilatte, to best savour the richness of aromas and fragrances (not only of milk, but also of herbs). In the kitchen, if it is at its best on pizza, try it to prepare a Caprese salad: its delicacy will captivate you.

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ITALIAN SOUNDING

BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

SOUNDING

Interview with Ivano Vacondio, President of Federalimentare By the editorial staff

HOW DO THE PHENOMENA OF ITALIAN SOUNDING AND FOOD COUNTERFEITING DIFFER? Counterfeiting is an illegal practice, legally punishable, which consists of violations of the registered trademark, of PDO / PGI geographical indications and, more rarely, of patents. On the other hand, Italian sounding is a much subtler and more impactful phenomenon for the food sector, as it is difficult to prosecute on a legal level, which consists in the use of labels or other symbols or colors or figures on the packaging, aimed at evoking the Italian spirit of the places of origin of the raw material, the recipe, the brand or even the transformation process of products that are entirely manufactured abroad.

WHAT IS THE ECONOMIC VALUE OF THE DAMAGE CAUSED BY THESE TWO PHENOMENA? The tendentious and often chaotic evocation of the false territorial origin of a product represents a particularly insidious and difficult phenomenon for the Italian food industry to pursue as it is not considered illegal in the vast majority of countries: it is estimated the total turnover of the Italian sounding exceeds 90 billion euros per year (of which 23 billion in the USA alone), with a growth rate of 70% in the decade 2007-2017. If we add counterfeiting, about 8 billion / euro / year, the turnover of fake made in Italy food reaches 100 billion / euro / year.

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WHICH ARE AND WHAT ARE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE NATIONS / GEOGRAPHICAL AREAS MOST INVOLVED IN THE PHENOMENON? The geographic areas most affected by the phenomenon of Italian sounding in some cases coincide with the main foreign markets of Italian food production, as is the case for the USA, the first third market for the export of food & beverage made in Italy, where it is calculated that the value of Italian sounding is around 23 billion / euro / year, a quarter of the total value globally. In general, the countries in which the phenomenon takes on greater and more worrying proportions are those affected in recent decades by intense emigration from Italy, where these productive practices are often carried out by the descendants of our migrants. In addition to the European markets of Germany, France and the UK, the third countries most involved are the USA, Canada, South America, Australia.

INTERVIEW WITH IVANO VACONDIO

WHAT SHOULD THE CONSUMER PAY ATTENTION TO IN ORDER NOT TO GIVE SPACE TO THESE HARMFUL PHENOMENA? The consumer should learn to distinguish products with particular attention to their quality, to the indications on the label and last but not least also to the price, as IS products, made locally, are often placed in lower price ranges than authentic made in Italy products, as - in addition to not being subject to any customs duties - they have an undue and structural competitive advantage due to the reduced production costs (cheapness of the raw materials used, the absence of production regulations) and the reduced costs of services (transport).

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ITALIAN SOUNDING

BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

WHAT DO YOU ASK OF THE RESTAURATEUR IN ORDER NOT TO FEED FRAUD, COUNTERFEITING AND THE DISSEMINATION OF FAKE ITALIAN PRODUCTS?

CAN DIGITAL TECHNOLOGY BE USEFUL TO ENSURE TRACKING OF A MADE IN ITALY SUPPLY CHAIN TO PROTECT THOSE WHO BUY? Digital technologies can be a valuable aid to help combat counterfeiting and IS phenomena in the various supply and sales channels - including e-commerce - as they constitute an additional tool available to Distributors / Importers and Control Authorities to identify the fake made in Italy: in this sense, it is important to continue the development of reliable and accessible tools to all companies, including SMEs, also from the point of view of economic sustainability.

Italian catering abroad plays a fundamental role in spreading our food and wine culture and our food products in the world: Italian restaurateurs have an important responsibility because they represent one of the main channels for approaching and educating foreign consumers to appreciate authentic Italian food products, teaching them to distinguish the real made in Italy food from the fake. Also, with regard to Italian cuisine abroad, it is essential that our restaurateurs - who stock up on truly Italian products - establish a relationship of trust and closeness with customers that allows them to recognise the qualitative excellence of our country and reject imitations.

FEDERALIMENTARE BRIEFLY Federalimentare represents, protects and promotes the Italian Food and Beverage Industry, the second manufacturing sector which, with an annual turnover of over 137 billion euros, contributes 8% to the national GDP. Federalimentare is joined by the national trade associations of the food industry, which comprises almost 7,000 production companies with over 9,000 employees, distributed throughout the country.

ITALIAN SOUNDING

BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF

ICQRF: Institutions for the protection of quality and in the fight against fraud in the agri-food sector Our interview with Dr. Stefano Vaccari, Head of Department Curated by David Mandolin

The acronym ICQRF means Central Inspectorate for the protection of the quality and repression of fraud in the agri-food sector. It is a Department under the aegis of Mipaaf (Italian Ministry of Agricultural and Forestry Policies) and its role is fundamental and essential for the protection of our products, those that end up on our tables and those that are transformed or served by restaurateurs and pizza chefs around the world, to protect operators and consumers.

It is essential to understand how the defense of Made in Italy must necessarily start both from the awareness of a phenomenon extended abroad but also at home, and from the professionalism of the restaurateur, true de facto ambassador of our excellences, who must demand and transform transparent, up to standard and healthy products.

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CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE FIELDS OF ACTIVITY OF THE ICQRF DEPARTMENT AND WHAT ITS OBJECTIVES ARE?

With over 55,000 checks per year, the ICQRF is the main food controller in Italy and one of the world's leading authorities in the field of agri-food controls. Among its numerous tasks at national level are: prevention and repression of fraud in the trade of agri-food products and technical means of production for agriculture; supervision of registered quality productions (PDO, PGI, Bio, ...); contrast of the irregular marketing of agri-food products introduced by Member States or third countries and of fraudulent phenomena that generate situations of unfair competition between operators and damage the correct functioning of inter-professional agreements. At a European and world level, the ICQRF is the Italian authority that protects national quality products, fighting counterfeits even outside national borders. The ICQRF also carries out web checks for the protection of Italian quality products: it is perhaps the only anti-fraud authority in the food sector worldwide to have operational cooperations with Alibaba, eBay and Amazon. With 6 laboratories, all EU accredited, it also guarantees analytical checks on thousands of products per year.

HOW IMPORTANT IS E-COMMERCE IN THE DISSEMINATION OF COUNTERFEIT PRODUCTS? The online market has been an ordinary market for us for some years: it is controlled with the same intensity and attention as the traditional market. Today the possibility of running into e-commerce scams, especially on large international market places, is the same, if not lower, than in traditional large-scale distribution. The market has in fact quickly selected the most reliable operators and the speed of comparison between customers offered on the internet makes it increasingly inconvenient to offer poor quality products on the digital market.

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MOZZARELLA, CHEESES AND INGREDIENTS

INTERVIEW WITH DR. STEFANO VACCARI

WHAT TOOLS DOES THE RESTAURATEUR HAVE TO UNDERSTAND THE REAL ORIGIN OF A PRODUCT? WHAT FURTHER LEGISLATIVE INITIATIVES ARE POSSIBLE TO HELP THEM IN THIS REGARD? WHAT ROLE DOES THE RESTAURATEUR - WHO BUYS, TRANSFORMS AND DEALS WITH RAW MATERIALS - PLAY AND COULD PLAY, AS A FURTHER BARRIER TO COUNTERFEIT PRODUCTS? AND HOW? Catering and restaurateurs are decisive. Both in guaranteeing quality to their customers, bringing made in Italy and its excellence to the world, and in supporting the reputation of agri-food products. The restaurateurs are real ambassadors of quality and taste. A well prepared professional, who knows how to recognise, for example, the different quality levels of certified foods with geographical indication (PDO and PGI) by offering real products and not imitations is a fundamental, indisputable ally for the development of the Italian agrifood chain.

The certification systems recognized by the EU, starting with the Geographical and Organic Indications, represent an important guarantee for the restaurateur to offer a product that has passed numerous checks and is characterised by traceability superior to conventional products. Furthermore, the raw material of the territory, with the direct acquaintance of the producers and the consequent supply without intermediaries, is another strong point. The producer who "shows his face" offers an important guarantee of quality and origin and can also help the restaurateur to offer suggestions and information to improve the offer to customers.

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Enzo Coccia, Neapolitan pizzajuolo born in 1962, is one of the most important pizza professionals in the world. Experience, competence, spirit of research, passion, ability to innovate, make him a figure of reference for colleagues and customers: with his pizzerias La Notizia in via Caravaggio (in two distinct street numbers, at 53 and 94) he manages to offer real sensory experiences that embrace both the gastronomic tradition and a different vision, in which to innovate and always go a little further. Coccia grew up in the Duchesca district, behind Piazza Garibaldi and the Central Station, and pizza was immediately his destiny. “I was born in Naples in the historic center right near the central station and my family has always had a pizzeria. I grew up professionally there and in 1994 I opened my first pizzeria: "La Notizia" in via Caravaggio 53. "

RECIPES

ENZO COCCIA

Enzo Coccia

His path from here is outlined towards an unstoppable crescendo of professional successes and recognition by the public and critics, but Enzo Coccia’s foundation is absolutely the knowledge of the gastronomic culture of his territory. Coccia was in fact among the first to fight - successfully - for the approval by the European Union of the Disciplinary of the Neapolitan pizza STG and we asked him what, in his opinion, the "state of health" of the STG pizza is today in Neapolitan pizzerias. He proudly defines himself as "pizzajuolo, as the etymological meaning of the word indicates the tradition, the culture of a people and its anthropological link with the city of Naples."

A cultural, anthropological and gastronomic connection that he used to innovate and also propose dishes that went beyond tradition: "my 2 pizzerias La Notizia are two sides of the same coin, but in the "53" I try to stick to tradition while in "94" I execute Eduardo de Filippo's concept of tradition to the letter: if you know tradition very well, it represents the springboard for innovation" As we said, Coccia's pizza follows some principles: "More than philosophy, I would define it as a method, which has as its main cornerstones the study, the experience dictated by continuous practice and the resulting experience. Only from here can you add a pinch of creativity."

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DOUGH: water

1 litre (2,2 lb / 33.8 us fl oz / 35.2 uk fl oz)

sea salt

50 gr. (0,11 lb / 1.76 oz)

brewer's yeast flour

I Pizza Margherita P

MOZZARELLA, CHEESES AND INGREDIENTS

3 gr. (0,006 lb / 0.1 oz)

1700/1750 g (3 lb 12 oz / 3 lb 13.8 oz)

10/12 hours of leavening at room temperature 22-25 °C / 71.6-77 °F TOPPING: San Marzano tomatoes

80g (0,17 lb / 2.8 oz)

Agerola fior di latte mozzarella cut into julienne strips 60g / 70g (0,13-0,15 lb / 2.1-2.5 oz)

Preparation of the traditional Neapolitan pizza dough with the direct method

Pour a liter of water (at 8-12 ° C / 46.453.6 °F ) into a circular tureen, dissolve the sea salt, then dissolve 3 g (0.1 oz) of brewer's yeast, and add 30% of the flour compared to the total amount provided, start kneading and gradually pour in the rest of the flour until the desired consistency is reached, called the dough point. This operation must last 20 minutes until you get a single compact mass. The dough must be non-sticky and "smooth" to the touch, soft and elastic. Cover the dough, without removing it from the bowl, with a damp cloth and let it rise. After about 6 hours, prepare about 10 loaves weighing 230g / 250g (8.1-8.8 oz). Let them rise for another 6 hours at a temperature of 22-25 ° C / 71.6-77 °F.

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Grated Pecorino Romano PDO 1 drizzle of extra virgin olive oil PDO Colline Salernitane A few basil leaves

Handling Manipulate the dough according to the traditional Neapolitan technique by pressing with the fingertips, pushing the air outwards to create the cornice and rotate it with both hands.

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BY CATERINA ORLANDI

Parma ham and the Protection Consortium 46 Parma Ham (from the Latin perexsuctum, literally dried) is a healthy and genuine product. No preservatives or additives have ever been used and the result is a tasty and completely natural product. Two other ingredients are added to the pork leg and salt: time and the wind of the Parma hills. The uniqueness of this territory - an extremely limited area of the province of Parma - is precisely that of having the ideal climatic conditions for natural aging, which give that unmistakable sweetness and taste to Parma Ham. An extremely controlled PDO product, linked to a long and rigid production process that ends with a careful examination and with the ducal crown heat marking. This marking is the unmistakable sign that distinguishes it; offering guarantee and safety to the consumer, which certifies the absolute excellence and authenticity of the product.

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MOZZARELLA, CHEESES AND INGREDIENTS

The Parma Ham Consortium was created to guarantee the unmistakable sweetness of Parma Ham. Pursuing this aim, it has dictated to the producing companies a precise methodology in full respect of tradition: Parma Ham must successfully pass all the production phases that end with the careful examination and subsequent fire "incoronation" with the well-known brand name. An essential condition for obtaining Parma Ham is that the entire process takes place in a "typical area": an extremely limited area that includes the territory of the province of Parma, located south of the Via Emilia at a distance of at least 5 Km from it, up to an altitude of 900 mt, bordered to the east by the Enza river and to the west by the Stirone stream.

PARMA HAM

Only in this area do all the ideal climatic conditions for drying occur, that is the natural seasoning that will give sweetness and taste to Parma Ham. The air of the Parma hills is fragrant: the sea wind of Versilia, once acquired the aroma 47 — of the pine forests, rubs against the karst mountains of the Cisa, losing all the brackish, and finally rolls on the scent of the chestnut groves; so it is dry air, ideal for curing hams.

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Production phases Isolation What is selected for Parma Ham is a very special pig: born and raised in 10 regions of Central and Northern Italy, exclusively of the Large White Landrance and Duroc breed, fed with quality foods (maize, barley, whey derived from the production del Parmigiano), over 9 months of age and weighing on average 160 Kg. Only in the presence of these requisites, certified by the documentation and the tattoo affixed by the breeder, can it be introduced into the Parma circuit.

Cooling down The fresh thigh rests for 24 hours in special cooling cells until it reaches a temperature of 0 ° C (32°F), so that the meat is firm in the cold and can be trimmed more easily. During the cooling phase, the product undergoes a first weight loss of about 1%. The legs used for the production of Parma Ham must not undergo, except for refrigeration, any preservation treatment, including freezing. Trimming It is used to give Parma Ham its characteristic rounded shape. The trimming is carried out by removing part of the fat and the rind, also for a technical reason, as it favours the subsequent salting. With trimming the thigh loses fat and muscle for 24% of its weight; during this operation the thighs with even minimal imperfections are discarded.

BY CATERINA ORLANDI

Salting Salting takes place in a diversified way: the parts of the rind are treated with wet salt, while the lean parts are sprinkled with dry salt. This operation is extremely delicate and must be carried out on thighs at the right and uniform temperature; a thigh that is too cold, in fact, absorbs little salt, while an insufficiently cold thigh can deteriorate. The leg is then placed in a cold room at a temperature between 1 and 4 ° C (33.839.2°F), with approximately 80% humidity. After a week of stay in this cell, called 'first salt', it is collected, cleaned of residual salt and finally subjected to a light pass of salt, and then returned to a new cold room, called 'second salt', and stays there from 15 to 18 days, depending on its weight. At the end of this salting period, the weight loss is about 4%, as the meat loses part of its moisture, slowly absorbing the salt. Rest Once the residual salt has been removed, the leg remains for periods ranging from 60 to 80 days in a special cell called 'rest', with a humidity of approximately 75% and a temperature between 1 and 5 ° C (33.841°F). During this phase it must 'breathe' without getting too wet or dry. The air exchange in the cells is very frequent. The absorbed salt penetrates deeply, distributing uniformly within the muscle mass, and the weight loss during rest is approximately 8/10%. Washing-Drying The thigh is then washed with warm water to remove any salt crystals or impurities. Drying takes place using natural environmental conditions, on dry and breezy sunny days, or in special 'dryers' in which the convective movements of the air are duly exploited.

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Pre-seasoning - Grooming Hanging from the traditional 'scalere', the hams dry naturally in large rooms with opposite windows. The windows are opened according to the internal humidity conditions, both with respect to the external climatic humidity and that of the product. This operation must allow a gradual and as constant as possible drying of the product. The weight loss in this phase is equal to 8/10%. Sealing The uncovered muscular part is covered with lard, a mixture of ground pork fat with the addition of a little salt and ground pepper and sometimes rice flour. The greasing performs the function of softening the superficial muscle layers avoiding a too rapid drying compared to the internal ones, while allowing a further loss of moisture. Lard is not considered an ingredient by Italian legislation, as it is a product of slaughter, therefore completely natural and without any type of preservative.

PARMA HAM

Seasoning At the 7th month, the Ham is transferred to the "cellars" of the plant which are compulsorily located in the typical production area, where the particular environmental characteristics have their influence during the aging, during which important biochemical and enzymatic processes also take place, and together determine the characteristic aroma and flavour of Parma Ham. During maturing, the weight loss is approximately 5%. Probing At the end of the curing process, probing operations are carried out, an olfactory type examination that sees the penetration in various points of the muscle mass of a horse bone needle, a material that has the characteristic of absorbing the aromas of the product and then returning them very quickly. The needle is "smelled" by experts trained to recognize and evaluate the olfactory characteristics, to establish the correct progress of the production process and respect for the peculiar sweetness. Branding After a minimum of twelve months, and after specific checks carried out by external inspectors, the 5-pointed crown brand is applied which identifies the Parma Ham and guarantees absolute respect for the traditional processing method.

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BY CATERINA ORLANDI

An unmistakable signature: how to recognize Parma Ham The fire-branded "crown" that distinguishes Parma Ham is not the only brand present on the rind of the ham. The quality of the PDO product is guaranteed by the "signature" left by each component of the supply chain, so that it is possible at any time to trace and verify all the steps in the production chain. Careful examination reveals the entire path of each individual thigh.

A special indelible tat50

too is placed by the breeder on both legs of the pig, with its own code of identification and month of birth of the animal.

The slaughterhouse, which "tests" every single fresh thigh, then applies a fire brand. It will permanently identify the leg by means of the initials PP Prosciutto di Parma and the identification of the slaughterhouse. The month and year of the beginning of maturation are shown in relief, together with the initials C.P.P. Consortium of Parma Ham - in the metal seal consisting of a circular crown. At the end of this long certification process, after careful examination that veri-

fies the regularity of the previous phases and the achievement of the unmistakable and peculiar organoleptic requirements of Parma Ham, the fire brand consisting of a 5-pointed crown with an oval base is applied, in which the word PARMA is inserted and, underneath, the abbreviation that identifies the company where the processing was carried out. For presentation, Parma Ham must be prepared in the right way. Once the rind has been removed, it must be de-fatted according to taste and needs. However, not all the fat should be eliminated before cutting it. It helps to preserve the unmistakable flavour of the Parma ham: and for those who prefer little fat, we recommend leaving at least half of it. The first slices must be taken from the side until the bone is reached. And boning it will be an important process, with a ritual that requires care and attention. Parma Ham must always be cut with a slicer. And each slice has to be just the right thickness, the thickness of a sheet of paper. Only in this way can sweetness and uniqueness of taste be enhanced.

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MOZZARELLA, CHEESES AND INGREDIENTS

Ask for it to be sliced at the moment in front of you: if sliced or and before and not stored properly (i.e. vacuum packed) it can lose part of its taste or even deteriorate. HOW TO STORE IT Boneless and packaged, Parma Ham can be stored for up to 6 months in a suitably refrigerated room between 4 and 8 ° C (39.2-46.4°F). Only Parma Ham on the bone can be hung. In this case, storage can last longer: up to 12 months, in an environment with a temperature between 17 and 20 °(62.6-68°F). Once started, it can be stored in the refrigerator for a month, making sure to cover the cut part with a transparent film. ORGANOLEPTIC AND NUTRITIONAL ASPECTS Parma Ham has a balanced combination of organoleptic characteristics and nutritional properties. Thanks to its low fat content, many mineral salts, easily digestible vitamins and proteins, it is a food suitable for everyone, including children, the elderly and sportspeople.

PARMA HAM

It is highly digestible thanks to the high-quality protein content and the natural proteolysis that occurs during aging (the breakdown of proteins into smaller molecules and single amino acids). It helps sportspeople thanks to the detoxifying and anti-fatigue action of free amino acids (which make up more than 20% of the total protein share) and helps to repair muscle damage due to wear and tear that the muscle undergoes during movement. It helps to fight and inhibit the action of free radicals, the main cause of aging and degenerative diseases, and to restore the body's physiological balance, thanks to the presence of natural antioxidants such as vitamin E and selenium. It protects against cardiovascular diseases thanks to the high content of unsaturated fatty acids (64.9%), those good fats 51 — that are good for health, such as oleic acid (45.8%), a monounsaturated fat also contained in olive oil. Eating Parma Ham means contributing to the achievement of the recommended daily intake levels (RDA) of B vitamins, but also providing a good amount of precious minerals with high bioavailability, that is, easily absorbed by the body, such as iron. THE CONSORTIUM The Parma Ham Consortium was founded in 1963 to protect and enhance Parma Ham all over the world and offer consumers guarantees and certainties on the quality of the product. Today it can count on an organisation of 140 companies, all located in the typical production area, which continue to use and preserve the traditional processing method following the same production regulations deposited with the European Union.

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Sandwich with Parma Ham, ricotta, fruit and honey

Ingredients for 4 people

• 1 ciabatta bread roll • 1-2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil • 225 g (7.9 oz) of ricotta • 2-3 figs cut into slices • 1 pitted and finely chopped nectarine • 4 teaspoons of maple syrup or acacia honey • Black pepper to flavour • 8-12 slices of Parma Ham

Cut the ciabatta in half, season with a little olive oil and then spread the ricotta in abundance on the bread. Arrange the figs and the nectarine slices on top of the ricotta, then pour a teaspoon of maple syrup or honey over the fruit. Season with a little freshly ground black pepper. Add two or three slices of Parma Ham and serve immediately.

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BY EDITORIAL STAFF

Parmigiano Reggiano

Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the oldest and richest cheeses known. It is produced today basically as it was nine centuries ago: with the same ingredients (milk, salt and rennet) and with a production technique that has undergone few changes over the centuries, thanks to the decision to preserve a completely natural production, without the use of additives. 53 — Its production is regulated by a strict Disciplinary, deposited with the European Union, as Parmigiano Reggiano is a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese, i.e. a product which, by virtue of its distinctive characteristics and the link with its area of origin, enjoys a protection regime granted by the EU to protect the consumer and the producer. To be called with the denomination “Parmigiano Reggiano DOP”, the cheese must be made respecting strict rules. First of all, it must be produced in the area of origin (which includes the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua to the right of the Po river and Bologna to the left of the Reno river - an area of approximately 10,000 km2). In this area, the production of milk, transformation into cheese, maturing until the minimum age (12 months) and the packaging and grating of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO must take place. Therefore, it is not possible to make Parmigiano Reggiano with milk produced outside this area or from abroad.

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For the production of Parmigiano Reggiano raw milk produced exclusively in that territory is used. It is a milk characterised by an intense bacterial activity of the autochthonous microbial flora, influenced by environmental factors, above all by the forages, herbs and hays of the territory which constitute the main food of the cows dedicated to this production. Furthermore, no additives are used to make Parmigiano Reggiano. It must be made with artisanal methods reported in the Single Document and in — 54 the rigorous Disciplinary, which impose: precise production methods (Production standards); particular diet for cows (Regulations for feeding cows); trademark use rules (Marking Regulations). The cows producing milk destined for transformation into Parmigiano Reggiano follow a particular diet. In fact, the Regula-

BY EDITORIAL STAFF

tions prescribe the prevalent use of local fodder. In particular, the standard provides that at least 50% of the forages used by the herd must be produced by the same milk-producing company, and at least 75% must come from the area of origin. There are only three ingredients to make Parmigiano Reggiano: milk, rennet and salt. The milk used is raw, i.e. not heat treated, therefore with the richness of naturally occurring milk enzymes.

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The minimum seasoning is 12 months, but it is around 24 months that Parmigiano Reggiano reaches the right maturity to express its typical characteristics. It can mature even longer, up to 36 or 48 months or even more. During aging, thanks to the action of enzymes released by lactic bacteria, proteins are broken down into smaller pieces, into peptides and free amino acids, the basic building blocks of the protein chain. This action of protein breakdown (proteolysis) determines the structural and sensory properties of Parmigiano Reggiano and its digestibility. The Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium is the protection body that associates all producers of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, to which the farmers in the area of origin

PARMIGIANO REGGIANO

deliver the milk to be transformed into PDO cheese in accordance with the regulations. It was born in 1934 and has the function of protecting, defending and promoting the product, safeguarding its typicality and increasing knowledge of it in the world. Each form of Parmigiano Reggiano receives a mark of origin at birth (the well-known "dots" and since the 2002 production also a "casein plate"). In addition, each form is examined at around 12 months. Only if it passes this test, the shape is branded with the selection mark (oval mark). The certification of compliance on compliance with the Regulations is carried out by the P-R Quality Control Body, on behalf of the European Union and the Ministry.

THE NUMBERS OF PARMIGIANO REGGIANO (2019 DATA)

2,573 farms / milk supplying dairies 267,000 cows over 24 months of age for milk production 1.94 million tons of milk produced 16% of the national milk production 321 production dairies 3,754,193 wheels produced equal to 150,167 tons 50 thousand people involved in the production chain 1.56 billion euro turnover in production 2.6 billion euros in consumer turnover

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ARCANGELO ZULLI

Arcangelo Zulli

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The pizzeria La Sorgente by Arcangelo Zulli is in Guardiagrele and has been managed with wisdom since 1985: it is a place that succeeds in distinguishing itself for its gastronomic identity as well as a moment of friendly fun for its customers.

"La Sorgente - Arcangelo Zulli tells us - was born in 1985 and owes its name to the fact that there was a spring next to the location of the pizzeria. The initiative was undertaken to make up for the lack of a place that offered a plate pizza in the area of our town, Guardiagrele in the province of Chieti: a small village, defined by Gabriele D'Annunzio "Terrace of Abruzzo", located between the Majella and the sea. " So how was La Sorgente as it is today born? "About 10 or 12 years ago, on the wave of the importance that the offer of a quality pizza was assuming and the realisation that the pizzeria was no longer a place of consumption only but also a place of aggregation, and after having invested time and resources, we revolutionised the way of interpreting pizza at the table. From a simple mixture of water and flour we began to work with techniques that are more respectful of the raw material and to search for quality flours, with the use of sourdough, and playing with hydration in order to offer

PIZZERIA LA SORGENTE IN GUARDIAGRELE, CHIETI a leavened product, with different textures, which is fragrant and crunchy on the palate. Thanks to the different stone-ground flours, we serve 5 doughs: a thin sourdough pizza, spelled flour dough, a high hydration Roman shovel dough, a dough registered by us with the “Riempizza” trademark with very high hydration and a significant amount of wholemeal flour, and lastly a focaccia type dough with pure re-milled semolina flour, also registered with the “Pandisemola” trademark.

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Pizza on Pei Monti

DOUGH: Type 1 flour water

1000g (2lb 3.3oz)

700 ml (23.66 us fl oz, 24.6 uk fl oz)

sourdough pre-dough

250 g (8.8 oz)

(PIZZA SU PEI MONTI) Procedure

salt

22 g (0.77 oz)

extra virgin olive oil

30 g (1 oz)

TOPPING: cow’s milk stracciata bresaola

goat ricotta emulsified with saffron granella di pistachio di Bronte chopped pistachio from Bronte chives dried saffron flowers extra virgin olive oil

with the indicated ingredients a dough is formed, worked well, 280 g (9.9 oz) loaves are obtained, which are rolled out, seasoned and baked at 360 ° C (680°F).

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PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture magazine

COLOPHON

GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo, Paola Dus — Mediagraf lab COVER ILLUSTRATED by Giulia Serafin

Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 n. 11/bis, December, 2021 English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768

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Since 1990, Pizza e Pasta Italiana has been the Italian magazine of reference for professionals working in the pizza sector. As the organiser of international events such as the Pizza World Championship, Pizza e Pasta Italiana magazine tells the story of pizza over time, in Italy and in the world, through scientific articles, interviews with professionals, thematic insights on toppings, ingredients and specialities, processing techniques and new trends, with a constant spirit of service towards the restaurateur.

Slices is a new print and digital publishing project that will be developed by taking into consideration some of the basic raw materials to make pizza to perfection. "Slices" of culture for professionals only, oﬀering them a practical and immediate tool to progressively contribute to spreading knowledge of raw materials, processing techniques, technologies and the most suitable tools to prepare, with passion and love, one of the most loved dishes in the world. First edition:

/Flour - Part 1 /Toppings, ingredients and specialities - Part 1 /Preparation and cooking: equipment and tools - Part 1 /Mozzarella, cheeses and ingredientss - Part 1 www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it