The Cellar Door Issue 39: Pinot by Poise Publications

the

Cellar Door Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants

Issue 39 June 2021 – September 2021

Pinot

Let our family move yours. Brad Parkes Brad graduated from the University of Winnipeg with a degree in Kinesiology and Certification in Athletic Therapy. After spending 3 years as a personal trainer and athletic therapist, Brad felt the pull to go into the family business. “Watching my parents excel in their careers in real estate while successfully balancing home life gave me confidence that I could also maintain that balance, and helped me in making the decision to begin my own career in real estate.” Brad brings a calming energy to the team, supporting our customer-focused approach to provide each client with the home buying and selling experience that they want. People love working with Brad because he has a great sense of humour, offers a zeropressure experience, and has a relaxed demeanour—which helps in navigating this crazy real estate market.

Royal LePage Dynamic Real Estate 204-989-5000 | Toll free: 1-877-800-5066 theparkesteam.ca | 3 - 1450 Corydon Ave

You carefully select that bottle of wine. It’s time to do the same for your wealth advisor. Contact our team for a second opinion on your family’s wealth plan.

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contents Features

34 A Family Like No Other: Pinot Sylvia Jansen introduces us to a family of noble grapes that has travelled the world.

38 The Family Tree JoCo’s top wine experts break down the most influential branches of this family tree: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Meunier.

44 Barbara Philip Talks Pinot 44

Gary Hewitt connects with Master of Wine Barbara Philip, one of Canada’s top wine educators and wine buyer for British Columbia.

50 Campfire Cookout Join us around the pit for our favourite fire-side recipes and wine pairings.

JonesWines.com 7

contents Columns 12 A Message from Tina Jones

14 Ask a Sommelier 18 Jones & Company 20 Behind the Label Domaine Zinck

22 Trending All Rosé, Shiny and New!

25 The Taste of Summer Orange Wines

26 Sidebar Cool Research

30 Shop Local, Globally What’s in the Fridge?

46 Cottage Cases 48 Profile Executive Chef Jesse Friesen, Academy Hospitality Group

58 Wine and Drinks College Manitoba 60 Culinary Partners Winnipeg’s Patio Summer!

62 Gary’s Corner Viruses and Wine

8 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

SILVER SERIES PINOT GRIGIO

FRIENDS

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FOOD MUSIC

THE PERFECT ACCOMPANIMENT

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proudly represented by Charton Hobbs | chartonhobbs.com | please enjoy responsibly

This spicy and savoury side comes from Chef Chris Gama at one of Winnipeg’s best breakfast + lunch spots, Clementine.

Cellar Door

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Grilled Corn with Spicy Truffle Aioli and Manchego Cheese

Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Editorial Board Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Manon Paquin Graphic Design Ryan Germain ryan.germain@gmail.com Contributors Todd Antonation, Thomas Fricke, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Alana MacKenzie, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Manon Paquin, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Rob Stansel, Leah Watkins Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com

For advertising information, please contact lisa@poisepublications.com

Frescolio is proud to partner with Winnipeg’s best local restaurants! Find this recipe and more at www.frescolio.ca

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally.

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We get it. Many things in life are better when paired with a glass of wine. Pairing it with reading your insurance policy…not so much. Like wine however, insurance is good to have. Named 5-Star Insurer by Insurance Business Canada Magazine!

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a message from tina jones If you are like me at all, you do not often think about the genetic tracing or evolution of grapevines. When our editorial team first discussed an issue on the Pinot family and the genetic links among varieties that all start with “Pinot,” I was quickly interested in the idea. Whenever I hear the term “Pinot,” my mind goes directly to France, to Burgundy, and to Pinot Noir. Burgundian Pinot Noirs can be so elegant, so refined and so complex that I rarely think about any genetic links to Pinot Grigio—the ever-present and easy-going patio whites from northern Italy. Exploring the links between these, and their connections with another of my favourites, Pinot Blanc/Bianco, would not just be a technical deep dive. These links were clearly the core for another fascinating and fun issue for The Cellar Door. Welcome to the summer of 2021 with a completely fascinating exploration of the varieties we consider part of the Pinot family: Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris/Grigio, and Pinot Meunier. Sylvia Jansen opens up their fascinating history and travels, and our team gives you insights into each one. Of course, Pinot Noir figures importantly: RickiLee Podolecki draws a great character sketch of this family grandfather; Mike Muirhead talks about his love for Gris and Grigio; we hear about the little-known hero Pinot Meunier; and I round out our sketches with Pinot Blanc/Bianco. Meanwhile, Gary Hewitt catches up with an important Canadian wine expert and educator, Barbara Philip MW. Jill Kwiatkoski shares her annual list of fun new rosés, and Saralyn Mehta shows us how to Shop Local, Globally with a guide to some surprising summer favourites off the beaten track. We hope you enjoy every page. We are always happy to hear from you, about our Company, our wines, or our magazine. When you come in, be sure to say hello and let us know how you are doing. We consider you part of our own family. Cheers,

Tina Jones

12 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

ask a sommelier What’s the divot in the bottom of the bottle for? —Jeff Clark Back when wine was bottled in woodfired glass, the original role of the “punt” on the bottom of the bottle was to increase its strength. The punt causes more surface area and therefore makes the glass stronger. If the contents are under pressure (like bubbles), more surface area means less chance of explosion.

heat resistant. Bordeaux, for example, has recently approved several additional varieties for their vineyards and wines. For close to a century, Bordeaux varieties for red wines were limited to a half dozen approved varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. In January 2021, that list was expanded to allow small quantities of Marselan, Touriga Nacional, Castets, and Arinarnoa— varieties that love heat, are relatively disease resistant, or both. The list for whites was also increased for the same reasons.

With the introduction of coal-fired glass (much stronger than the previous woodfired glass), there was no more need for the punt to strengthen the glass, but removing it made the bottle look smaller—and no one wants to feel like they are getting less wine! Punts were kept, and now you can often see that the most expensive bottles have the biggest punt, making the size and heft of the bottle more about marketing than it is about keeping its contents safe. —Mike Muirhead How are winemakers guarding against the effects of climate change? —Claudine Gervais Many winemakers and scientists are studying this question. Winegrowers are coping with hotter summers (leading to sunburn and drought); warmer and wetter winters (leading to pest and disease pressures); and the violence of freak frosts, hail, storms, floods and forest fires—all signs of changing climates and none of it good for grape growing. We are seeing reports of harvests weeks earlier than historically, which is not necessarily a good thing because ripening does not follow linear patterns. There are estimates that we could lose half our current global vineyard area with a 2°C warming, and things look even worse beyond that. Winegrowers and winemakers are exploring a number of longer-term strategies. Among these are the possibility of seeing heat-loving varieties move into places that have previously been too cool or introducing varieties that are more 14 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

These changes also mean that some coolclimate varieties will have fewer possible homes or will need to be on the move as well. Winegrowers are indeed looking further from the equator for suitable growing conditions. English sparkling wine is an example. We are seeing an everincreasing number of vineyards in the south of England specializing in the styles of Traditional Method bubbles that have made Champagne famous (you should try our Ashling Park Cuvée and Rosé!). In other places, the strategies include moving up to cooler hillsides, moving vineyards to face away from the sun (to cooler, less sunny slopes that were formerly considered lower quality) and embracing growing techniques that see greater biodiversity in the vineyard to strengthen vineyard health generally. All in all, it is a tough time—and time for all of us to pay attention. Thanks for asking! —Sylvia Jansen

How can I tell if a wine has spoiled? —Celeste Manko When trying to decide if your wine is spoiled, simply use the “pleasure principle.” Wine should always be a pleasurable experience. All the senses we use when we are drinking/tasting wine are the same ones that will tip us off if a wine is spoiled. Seeing is believing: Is your young, fresh white clear and bright? That’s a good sign. Is it cloudy, yellowing, or brownish? That is telling you it has seen better days. Is your big bold red ruddy and brown? Good chance it has gone to Funky Town. One caveat here: some winemakers choose to produce their wines using an unfiltered process. This is a notable practice in natural wines, which results in an intentionally cloudy wine. These winemakers believe that too much filtering can strip a wine of its flavours and aromas and that unfiltered wines can have a deeper texture and mouthfeel. (One of our wine experts would be happy to walk you through the wild and wonderful experience of tasting natural wines!) The nose knows: When the aromas of your wine do not reflect fruit qualities but are showing aromas like wet dog, vinegar, nail polish remover, it is time to part with that bottle. Palate proof: If you don’t believe what you have seen and smelled, go ahead and give it a taste. Are you struggling to find the fruit notes? Is there a very aggressive acidity? Does it just plain taste unpleasant? Trust your senses: they are telling you all you need to know. —Saralyn Mehta

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o call a place “home” is more than naming an address: home is an identity and a commitment. When Pedro Pavone-Voglino emigrated from Italy to Chile in the early 20th century, he promised himself he would build his new home on the cornerstones of respect, honesty, community and responsibility. He held to these commitments when he and his son Félix later acquired the land “chacra Santa Ema” in the heart of the Maipo Valley to build a life in wine.

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The 65-year journey has taken the family winery into its third and fourth generations. Today, Pedro’s grandchildren are active in vineyard, winery and export management: Rossana Pavone oversees finance; Félix, the vineyards and production. The fourth generation—Sebastián, Felipe and Guillermo—are actively involved in domestic sales and exports. “Santa Ema wines must reflect their place of origin and our commitments”, says Andrés Sanhueza, general manager and head winemaker for Santa Ema. “It is a series of details that must be met from vineyard to bottle that preserves the family seal of quality and consistency over time.” To support a diverse range of quality wines, the family has expanded vineyard holdings. Anchored by their historic properties in the Isla de Maipo sub-region, they have acquired select vineyard properties in cool Leyda near the

Pacific coastline, in highly regarded Pirque, at the edge of the Andes, and further south in the Cachapoal Valley in Peumo. For Santa Ema, the unwavering pursuit of quality wine has also meant a pursuit of respect for their team, land and community. “The production of wine is done through people,” says Andrés, “so the team is like an extension of the family itself.” Like other members of the winemaking team, for example, Andrés has been with Santa Ema for more than two decades. “The idea is for everyone to feel part of the family. We are a super committed team, and it is a wonderful working environment with solid pillars.” In the winery, they work toward respectful, low-intervention practices and are in the process of gaining certification for vegan and gluten-free production. “We want to make our wines under an atmosphere of balance, where both land and workers are respected”, comments Andrés. “We work toward biodiversity in the vineyards and have 100% sustainable viticulture, with a view to eventually bring it to organic production.” The family commitment to community is long term. Santa Ema actively supports local education, school renovations and libraries. They have also worked toward Santa Ema 30K, a project to showcase small business goods made within a 30-km range of the winery. While the ravages of the

pandemic have meant a slowdown in tourism traffic, the family is confident this commitment will see a long-term benefit for their many small-business neighbours. It has been a 65-year drive to distinguish Santa Ema with a seal of quality and consistency, says Andrés. With the firm anchors of home, community, great terroirs, and a great team, clearly the path to the future is set.

The Wines Santa Ema showcases the best of their terroirs, their approach and their people in the wine portfolio. The Select Terroir Reserva range does just what it promises: offer up the most expressive fruit from the best locations. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé wines are drawn from fruit grown in the warmth of Isla de Maipo, where the climate is moderated by the cooling winds from both the Andes and the coast. The Select Terroir Carménère originates in Peumo, Cachapoal, where the cool nights and warm days produce a wine with great balance and structure. The Gran Reserva line, led by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, authentically reflect the concentration, quality and judicious oak ageing of particular parcels and lots. The wines of Santa Ema Amplus (Latin for “distinguished”) offer rare glimpses of some of the best terroirs of the line.

Andrés Sanhueza, general manager and head winemaker

At the pinnacle of the collection are Catalina and Rivalta, drawn from the very best 20 barrels of red produced each year. The amazing Bordeaux blend Catalina pays tribute to the mother of the third generation, presented with a beautifully elegant cloth label. Rivalta is named in tribute to the Piedmontese Italian origin of the founder. From the Maipo Alto, skirting the edges of the Andes, Rivalta offers an unforgettable experience of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Carignan and Syrah.

jones & company

Abby Ilchena paired her Reassi Sparviere Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc (Italy) with dinner from Jonesy’s Restaurant (@jonesysrestaurant)

Alex Tripp enjoyed her La Dama Valpolicella Classico (Italy) with her Pizzeria Gusto pizza (@pizzeriagusto)

Jozeph Bryant paired Pinuaga Colección Tempranillo (Spain) with Harth Mozza & Wine Bar (@harthwpg)

Dustin Boer enjoyed his Paul Mas Claude Val Red (France) at Amsterdam Tea Room and Bar (@amsterdamtearoomandbar)

Erin Clarke paired Matthew Rorick RHV (California) at Passero (@passerorestaurant)

Gail Franzmann paired Botter Primitivo (Italy) with pizza from Alena Rustic Italian (@alenawinnipeg)

Gary Parkes paired Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile) with dinner from Gusto North (@gustonorthwpg)

Jean Ostash paired Whatchamacallit Red Blend (California) with Earls Restaurant’s Santa Fe Chicken Salad (@earlsrestaurant)

Jodi Candaele paired Les Domaines Auriol Catch & Release Sauvignon Blanc (France) and Maison Vialade Pinot Noir (France) with dinner from 529 Wellington (@529wellingtonwpg)

18 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Thank you to everyone who supported local restaurants by participating in our WINE FOR A YEAR Contest. I think everyone here would agree that there were no losers in this contest!

Ben Buckley paired Alheit Vineyards Flotsam and Jetsam Cinsault (South Africa) with dinner from Joey Restaurant (@joeyrestaurants)

Karen Turner paired Bon Courage Chardonnay (South Africa) with a meal from Inferno Bistro (@infernobistro)

Lana Pants paired Quarisa Wines 30 Mile Cabernet Sauvignon (Australia) with dinner from Monticchio’s (@monticchioswinnipeg)

Lisa Steidl paired Portico Mayor Reserva (Spain) with King Salmon at Preservation Hall (@preservationhall.eatery.wine)

Lori Olsen paired The Stump Jump Shiraz (Australia) with Diana’s Cucina Pizza (@dianas_cucina_and_lounge)

Olive paired her PF Chang’s Chicken Lettuce Wraps and Chicken Lo Mein with Poggio Anima Samael Montepulciano (Italy) (@pfchangswinnipeg)

Melissa Sharp paired Juno Shiraz (South Africa) and Renacer Punto Final Malbec (Argentina) with dinner from Harth Mozza & Wine Bar (@harthwpg)

Nathalie Stark paired Pikes White Mullet (Australia) with Tony Roma’s wings (@tonyromas)

Tara F. paired Rapaura Springs Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) with Lobster and Prawn Ravioli from Earls St Vital (@earlsstv)

JonesWines.com 19

Domaine Zinck By Rob Stansel, Sommelier (CAPS) The wines of Domaine Zinck have been on our shelves since 2008, when the talk of the wine world was minerality, global financial crisis, Southern Hemispheric new kids—Malbec ascendent—and the rebirth of rosé. Mobile apps weren’t even a thing yet. Somm (2012) hadn’t yet introduced “freshly opened can of tennis balls” into our tasting vocabulary. Quietly and thoughtfully, while North American wine consumers were struggling to understand the screwcap, Philippe Zinck was developing a modern, ecologically minded estate in the heart of Eguisheim, Alsace, France. At the eastern edge of France, in the shadow of the Vosges Mountains, the wine region of Alsace is a northto-south stretch of hilly vineyards, running for about 100 kilometres. Its culture is both French and Germanic. Aroma is everything. 90% of the wines produced there are made from white grapes. Riesling is the boss: dry, not sweet; some of it so good it is classified as Grand Cru. That one that starts with Gew and ends in urtztraminer (just call it “Goo”—it’s easier) that smells like roses and lychee? Lots of that one. Oh, and the Pinot family is a pretty big deal there: Gris and Blanc especially, often made into smoky, mushroom, and pear juice-scented liquids, all unctuous and gutsy and yep—whatever the heck minerally means. Winemaker Philippe Zinck spent some time Down Under at Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River, Australia, before returning to his home in Alsace in 1996. Much has changed at Domaine Zinck, and in Alsace as a whole, during his time at the helm. Global warming began to affect viticulture in a profound way in the early 2000s. The trend toward drier and leaner styles—Pinot Grigio ascendent—led Philippe to re-shape winemaking practices for new export markets, such as ours. Most importantly, Philippe is a passionate advocate of organic and biodynamic farming. 2008 was a watershed, in fact: it was the year he and his team stopped using pesticides in their vineyards. In the years since, the Zinck estate has moved toward full organic and biodynamic certification—ECOCERT and DEMETER certifications are expected this year.

20 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Photo by Ian McCausland

BEHIND THE LABEL

Domaine Zinck is available exclusively at Jones & Company Wine Merchants: Crémant d’Alsace nv Brut Rosé ($31.99); Portrait 2017 Pinot Gris ($26.99); Pfersigberg 2016 Grand Cru Riesling ($53.99); Portrait 2018 Gewurztraminer ($27.99); Portrait 2016 Pinot Blanc ($24.99); Crémant d’Alsace nv Brut ($31.99).

“Initially, I worked without certification. I wanted to avoid the paperwork, but nowadays, customers expect you to have the stamp on the label,” Philippe notes. Philippe sees his role as soil caretaker as much as vintner, with the goal of producing wines not only of great character, but that “give you an emotion.” Biodynamic farming is the key to that, as he understands it. He is proud that in his village alone, 18 of 25 wineries are already certified. “The Alsace wine region is definitely ahead in green farming, compared to any other wine region of France. I believe this trend will go further over the next years, and probably in 20 years, 50% of the whole Alsace region will be organic,” Philippe predicts. Healthy soils, delicious wines. It’s a formula that seems obvious, but it still isn’t the wine industry norm. Zinck’s wines show expression in the glass that such care in the vineyard can result in. Their Pinot Gris shows classic weight and purity of fruit, and if you haven’t tasted their fizz, get on it. Am I a fan? I once collected a vertical of Zinck Pfersigberg Grand Cru Rieslings. I once brought in a New Year guzzling Zinck Crémant Rosé out of a weird water glass with flames all over it. Fan boy since 2008.

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TRENDING

All Rosé, Shiny and New! By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS) Ohhhhh yeah, baby! My favourite wine season is upon us: rosé season is HERE! Bring on the sunshine and heat, the mouth-watering BBQ dinners, the sipping on the dock of the bay (you’re totally singing that song right now, aren’t ya?). Let’s toast to all the new pretty in pink wines to enjoy this summer! It’s been a very long, difficult year. It seems like forever since I wrote my summer rosé wishes for all of you—but that was only last June! Well, my wine-loving friends, the world as we know it may have been turned on its head this past year, but the wine gods and winemakers around the world certainly had theirs on straight. They have created some gorgeous rosés that we have hand-selected and brought in for you this summer. If for a moment we can all enjoy this beautiful new rosé season and just sip, savour, and smile then, gosh darn it, let’s do it! Let’s enjoy this glorious season as much as we possibly can and look forward to all things delicious. Without further ado, my friends, let me introduce you to some of my new favourite rosés for summer 2021.

Pulenta Estate 2020 La Flor Malbec Rosé Mendoza, Argentina ($18.99) From majestic Mendoza, Pulenta Estate created this glorious and vibrant Malbec rosé. Produced from 100% Malbec grapes, the grape skins and juice are only in contact for mere hours, giving us this stunning, soft salmon pink colour. This rosé has beautiful notes of watermelon, tart raspberries, a hint of cherry, and red plum.

Food pairing: Grilled chicken with lemon and fresh herbs, marinated grilled flank steak (cooked rare and sliced thin), with roasted potatoes and a watermelon and feta salad.

22 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Stagård 2019 Urban Zweigelt Rosé Niederösterreich, Austria ($22.99) Zweigelt rosé you say? Yes indeed! Try something that isn’t mainstream in North America and explore Austria’s most famed red wine grape, Zweigelt (pronounced “zz-vhy-galt”). An amazing rosé with notes of tart cranberries, hints of raspberries, rhubarb, red apples, and a touch of floral. Not only is this rosé absolutely delicious and interesting, but Stagård winery is also certified organic and vegan.

Food pairing: Zweigelt is a great picnic wine, so pair with meats and cheeses, veggies and dip, pasta or potato salad, and fresh fruit. Or put a fancy Austrian twist on it and pair it with grilled bratwurst.

Chantovent 2020 Bistro des Mets Cinsault/Carignan Rosé LanguedocRoussillon, France ($12.99) Truly, the perfect little bistro rosé. A lunchtime rosé, if you will. Also, a wonderful wine for your picnic in the park or on the beach. This lively and zippy rosé is a blend of 50% Cinsault and 50% Carignan with notes of young strawberries, hints of grapefruit and peach, and a touch of red currants and pink flowers.

Food pairing: A wonderful brunch wine that pairs perfectly with frittata or quiche, summer salads, and wraps.

Les Domaines Auriol 2019 Liparis Pinot Noir Rosé Pays d’Oc, France ($18.99) So elegant and gorgeous! This lovely rosé is made with 100% Pinot Noir and is indeed as pretty as its curvy and elegant bottle. Beautifully balanced with notes of crabapple, strawberries, Rainier cherries, and a slight hint of clove and wet stone. This is an elegant rosé that is sure to lure you in with its soft whispers of deliciousness.

Food pairing: This is a delicate one that would pair wonderfully with duck confit appetizers, seafood salad, and goat cheese.

Alconde 2019 Sardasol Garnacha/ Tempranillo Rosado Navarra, Spain ($14.99) I love me some Spanish rosados! Alconde brings us their easy-drinking Sardasol line with this full-of-life, brilliant pink rosé. Perfectly fruit-forward with notes of raspberries, red currants, a touch of orange blossom, and a hint of fresh Maynard’s Swedish berries. This is a rosé that you shouldn’t overthink—just open and enjoy. Part of the theory of the Sardasol line is exactly that: like rays of sunshine, you soak it up and enjoy. (Give their Sardasol Chardonnay a try sometime as well—it’s unoaked and summery fresh.)

Food pairing: Pair with summer tapas, grilled chicken or pork skewers, and grilled vegetables.

Doom Juice 2020 Sauvignon Blanc/Pinot Noir Rosé Marlborough, New Zealand ($29.99)

Santa Ema 2020 Select Terroir Cabernet/Syrah Rosé Maipo Valley, Chile ($17.99)

This is probably one of the quirkiest, wackiest, weirdest super fun rosés that I’ve ever tasted! I’m in love! This wine uses natural winemaking processes: minimal intervention, wild fermentation, unfiltered, and unfined. It is also certified organic and vegan. A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Pinot Noir brings notes of tropical fruits, tart cherry, red apple, and a hint of peach. This rosé sells out fast all over the world. We are lucky to bring you a few cases this year, so get it while you can—it’s absolutely crushable.

Oh Chile, how I love you so! A piece of my heart will always live in Chile, so I am thrilled to have this rosé here for the summer. This pretty little number exemplifies the beauty of Chilean rosé and is a fantastic expression of two grape varieties that flourish in Chile in this ever-so-fresh format. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah with notes of cherries, hints of grilled red bell peppers, macerated strawberries, peppercorns, and fresh herbs.

Food pairing: You could definitely drink this with grilled shrimp, lighter summer fare, or simply enjoy its splendour all on its own.

Food pairing: This is not a shy wine, so don’t be afraid to pair it with some grilled meat, kebabs, burgers, and even late-night campfire hot dogs.

Please take some time for yourselves, sit back, and enjoy this beautiful rosé season! Cheers! #roseallday

A CASE FOR ROSE: If you are heading to the lake or just want to pick up a quick case, our Cottage Case Rosé has 6 bottles of rosé (2 bottles of 3 different kinds) for just $84.99. For more info on all of our Cottage Cases, see page 46 or visit us online at joneswines.com. (Delivery is FREE city-wide for summer 2021!)

JonesWines.com 23

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The Taste of Summer: Orange Wines If you want to try something new and funky this summer, we would love to introduce orange wines! Orange wines get their unique hue and flavour profile from white wine grapes fermented using red winemaking techniques. Here’s how they are made.

Harvest (picking)

Crushing

Fermentation & Maceration*

Pinot Grigio grapes are a popular choice for winemakers that create orange wines.

*Maceration is the key step in making orange wines: essentially these are white wines made as reds, with extended skin contact: skins are macerated with the juice and fermenting wine for weeks, to months to even one year. In contrast, rosé wines are typically made from red grapes, and skin contact is a few days or weeks to achieve the lively pink tones—a much shorter maceration period compared to orange wines.

Pressing & Bottling Oxidation: Many orange wines are aged in vessels such as a clay amphora, where slow oxidation adds to the golden colour and pronounced aromas and flavours of nuttiness.

Taste profile: The long skin contact gives orange wine a unique complexity and an astringent, textural mouthfeel.

Try these orange wines from Jones & Company Wine Merchants: • Tawse 2020 Growers Blend Skin Fermented Pinot Gris Niagara, Canada ($26.99) • Primosic 2016 Skin Friulano Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy ($37.99) • Le Ragnaie 2018 Civitella Tuscany, Italy ($46.99) • Podere le Ripi 2019 Canna Torta Tuscany, Italy ($48.99)

JonesWines.com 25

SIDEBAR

Cool Research By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier Serve well chilled. Room temperature. Serve light reds at 12°C–14°C. These directions are on bottle back labels, wine references, courses, and apps. Nevertheless, we usually serve wine at one of two temperatures: straight out of the fridge or straight off the table. Then it sits on that table or patio, its temperature constantly changing, mostly for the worse. We usually blame the wine for being uninteresting. But accepted wisdom says that a full-bodied red wine should be served at room temperature only if your room is no warmer than 16°C, and for most whites, the fridge and ice bucket are too cold. To test this advice, I used a lab thermometer and our culinary thermometer (wine research: sign me up). I measured the dining room (21°C, cozy for some), the wine cellar under the stairs (not terrible, about 16°C), the refrigerator (a chilly 3°C), and an ice-water bucket (tastebud-freezing 1°C). From there, I tried a few wines (research purposes only). One was the Vins de Vienne 2018 Les Cranilles Côtes du Rhône red, a lovely Grenache-Syrah blend (14% alcohol) and a beautiful barbecue partner. I allowed it to come to 21°C, then tasted a small sample. The fruit was dull, with a peppery note and not much of interest. The structural balance was also off, with grainy tannins, dominant alcohol, and rather flat acidity. With 10 minutes in a bucket of ice and water, it was just under 15°C, the fruit lifting into blackberry, plum, and black cherry, with cardamom, cocoa, and clove spice notes alongside pepper, with alcohol in check, refreshing acidity and earthy, dusty tannins nicely balancing the frame. It was a different and beautiful wine.

26 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

I repeated these steps with sparkling, white, rosé, and fortified wines, with the ice bucket, fridge, room temperature, and a Corkcicle™ decanter (this was no one-night project). My conclusion: the accepted wisdom is good wisdom. The lighter the body of the wine, the more chilled it should be. The fuller the wine, the less time for chilling—but even if you have a temperature-controlled wine cabinet, some chilling is needed either before or during your enjoyment. The thicker the bottle (think sparkling), the longer it takes to get to the sweet spot. Over the course of dinner or an evening, the wine’s temperature almost always needs a bit of attention, either out of the ice bath, or in, or alternating. I need to say that a wine’s first obligation is to give you pleasure, so your own preferences matter a lot. If pleasure comes from tossing an ice cube into your white or rosé or even red on the dock or in your dining room, you should go ahead and do that, unapologetically. If you want to try the accepted wisdom, we have created this chart for your ease of use. These are guidelines, so please take out your culinary thermometer and start your own experiments. So here’s to you, well researched.

Summer Chilling Guide Starting point

Style of wine

Finding the perfect wine balance

3°C

Refrigerator

15°C

Wine fridge or cellar

21°C

Room temperature

27°C+

... Patio

full-bodied red

full-bodied white

rosé

5 minutes on ice

light-bodied red

light white

sparkling

15 minutes on the counter after refrigeration

ready to drink!

JonesWines.com 27

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SHOP LOCAL, GLOBALLY

What’s in the fridge? A guide out of the ordinary By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier

It is the summer of 1985. A gangly 16-year old girl stands in front of the mirror, staring at her long brown hair. With The Clash playing loudly in the background, she takes a deep breath, lifts the clippers, and carefully shaves the sides of her head, resulting in a long flowing mohawk. It was not a cry for help but rather a bold fashion choice made by a quirky girl who moves to the beat of a different drum.

These days, I am more likely to be spotted wearing a tailored blazer rather than a long green army jacket. My boots are high heel, not combat, and my weekends are spent listening to music at home, not in a mosh pit at a punk show. That said, I am still and always will be drawn to the unusual. That is evident in what I read, what I watch, and what wines excite me.

Leap forward to the summer of 2021. That girl is now in her 50s. She is a doting mother to her teenage son; she has worked as a wine professional for nearly 17 years; and her fashion choices are decidedly more conservative. Though the years have brought maturity and responsibility to her life, the quirky 16-year-old still lives on in her heart and mind. I know this because that girl is me.

To that end, I am filling my fridge for the summer of 2021 with fun and unusual grape varieties. From Lambrusco to Ribolla Gialla to funky ciders, take a leap of faith and follow me into the world of often-overlooked styles and grape varieties.

MONTUNAL

LUGANA DOC 2020

This Lugana is made from the selection of the best bunches of Turbiana and takes its name from our vineyards near the small village of Montonale, called Montunal in the local dialect. It is the authentic expression of the native grape variety, which shows here all its uniqueness and personality.

Grape variety: 100% Turbiana, hand harvested to ensure gentle handling. Vineyards: careful selection of the most suitable grapes for the production of this wine in our vineyards located in the small village of Montonale; thanks to the excellent sunlight exposure and the good ventilation, the grapes can reach a perfect ripeness. Soils: clay soils with high limestone content and rich in minerals. Vine training system: guyot, 5/6 buds per vine. Season in the field: the fresh and dry spring allowed an early sprouting, which was later delayed because of the abundant precipitation of July. The rest of summer was favourable, with no heat spike. With these premises, freshness and pleasantness are the leitmotif of this vintage. The harvest, carried out by hand in boxes in two different passages, began on the 10th of September and ended on the 20th of October. Yield: 10,000 kg per hectare. Winemaking: the bunches are manually selected and cooled before the pressing in order to preserve the aromatic precursors. A soft pressing takes place in anaerobic conditions (with the absence of oxygen) to avoid the oxidation of the aromatic compounds. Only the free-run juice obtained at very gentle pressure is used for the production of this wine; the must clarification is done by natural settling. Fermentation occurs for about 10 days in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature. The wine is aged on its fine lees for at least 6 months with constant lees stirring and it benefits of a short bottle ageing before release. Tasting notes: an intense pale yellow colour with brilliant hues, on the nose it offers floral and fruity scents, dominated by aromas of white pulp fruits, a hint of tropical fruits, and broom, with balsamic hints of thyme and sage and an intriguing mineral impression of wet stones that is so typical in Lugana wines possessing a strong personality. The palate boasts a perfect balance between freshness and concentration with a nice mineral flavour adding elegance and persistence. Alcohol: 13,5 % Vol. Food pairings: ideal as aperitif, it is perfectly matched with roast, grilled and boiled fish, above all with lake fish, as trout, perch and whitefish. Try it with “aringhe alla gardesana”, the local way to cook the typical herring of Lake Garda!

www.montonale.it

30 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Alfredo Bertolani nv Lambrusco Rosato Secco Emilia-Romagna, Italy ($16.99)

Primosic 2018 Ribolla Gialla Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy ($26.99)

In the 1970s and 80s, sweet Lambrusco was all the rage in North America. Some of you may be old enough to remember that catchy TV commercial “Riunite on ice, that’s nice” that promoted a sweet Lambrusco. As the 80s came to an end, Lambrusco seemed to fall out of fashion. In recent years, more serious, interesting styles of Lambrusco have made their way back into our market. This is definitely one of them: a dry rosé Lambrusco with creamy, fine bubbles. Ripe strawberry, red licorice, and clove with a balanced acidity that makes it a great pairing with appies and salads. A must-have on the deck.

The Primosic family is passionate about making wines that highlight the quality of grapes indigenous to Friuli Venezia Giulia in the northeastern corner of Italy. This Ribolla Gialla is beautifully elegant: close your eyes and breathe in delicate white flowers, fresh orchard fruit, hay, and citrus. Steel tank fermentation highlights the purity of fruit, producing a wine that whispers its greatness but sticks firmly in your memory. I promise that you will be drawn back to this wine time and time again.

Montonale 2019 Montunal Lugana Bianco Lombardy, Italy ($24.99) 2

Is it strange to say I am in love with a wine? Who cares. Every time I pop the cork from a bottle of this wine and pour its golden gloriousness into a glass, I look at it and say, “Helllllllo, lover!” Made from 100% Turbiana grapes, it boasts explosive scents of tropical fruit, peach, and lemon zest. The palate expresses a beautiful balance between freshness and concentration framed in a lovely mineral flavour typical of wines from Lugana. If I could drink only one wine for the rest of my life, this would be it.

Lekker Ciders, Alberta, Canada As Monty Python says: “And now for something completely different.” These dry ciders are Canadian-made in Alberta. Lekker is Afrikaans, meaning tasty and delicious, which is just what these ciders are. Delightfully crushable on a hot summer day, these will be a go-to choice for an afternoon sip on the deck or dock.

Zarate 2018 Albariño Rias Baixas, Spain ($26.99) 3

I like a little zip in my summer whites, and this Albariño packs a zippy punch. Notes of lime and Meyer lemon dance beautifully in the glass with ripe pear and minerality. All that flavour, along with the zippy acidity, makes this my preferred summer sipper. It’s refreshing on a lazy hot summer day on the dock but complex enough to stand up to a huge seafood feast. You will never be disappointed with a glass of this in your hand.

Baglio Oro 2018 Guari Inzolia Sicily, Italy ($20.99) 4

This beauty is made from the Inzolia grape. To be honest, this one was not on my radar until a text from my friend Jill made it impossible to resist trying it. This is the tasting note she sent me: “So fresh and delightful! Think fuzzy peach meets the freshest apricot you’ve ever had. This Inzolia is heaven. Pair it with a salad with fresh berries, delicate white fish or just sip and savour. An absolutely gorgeous little number.” Couldn’t agree more, my friend. I can’t wait to share a glass or two this summer.

Pacific Northwest Bru Dry Hard Cider ($8.99/473 ml): Enjoy apple-y deliciousness with hints of mango and apricot. A great match to a cheese plate with kiwi slices, green grapes, and pear slices. Banzi Pynappache Tropical Hard Cider ($7.99/350 ml) pops with cinnamon-spiced pineapple and crunchy Granny Smiths. Keep it Canadian by pairing this cider with Manitoba pickerel topped with fruit salsa. Eiland Guava Bru ($6.99/350 ml): This is the newest addition to the Lekker family at Jones & Company: Fermented dry with white wine yeast and blended with fresh guava for a burst of tropical fruit. I can’t wait to try it!

Much has changed since the summer of ’85. I have changed. The music still plays in the background, but now it is the Pursuit of Happiness, reminding me that “I’m an Adult Now”! While that may be the case, the 16-year-old quirky girl lives on. Her edges may be a little softer, her impulses better controlled, but her belief that weird can be wonderful has followed her into the summer of 2021 as she continues to dance to the beat of a different drum.

JonesWines.com 31

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A FAMILY LIKE NO OTHER:

PINOT

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

Like other old families, this one has its share of nobles. It has some unknowns, and of course, we know of a few renegades. As the family has migrated across borders, it has adopted new languages and changed its name accordingly. There are some notable differences among family members, but some interesting similarities. The Pinot family may just be the most remarkable wine grape family in existence. “Pinot” is not just the first word in many French grapevine varieties; it is also the genetic link among them. The general variety known as “Pinot” is estimated to be at least 2,000 years old. Compare this with the upstart Cabernet Sauvignon (offspring of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc), which did not appear in vineyards until the late 18th century, and you can begin to get a sense of the importance of Pinot’s ancient roots. Within the general variety, there are many, many variations, some of which have become known as separate grape varieties. (The sidebar tells the secrets of variations on this theme.) The oldest variety, with the darkest skin, became known as the black Pinot (hence “Noir”). The other Pinot varieties are actually variations of Pinot Noir: the white one (where berries are white/green) is Pinot Blanc, for white wine only. Ripe grapes for Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio show themselves as grey, or grey/blue, or brown/pink, something approaching red but not quite. A little-known fact is that the variety known in France as “Meunier” is actually another Pinot: Pinot Meunier.

Meunier translates to “the miller” because its vine leaves have a downy underside, as though dusted with flour.

There are estimated to be a thousand members of the Pinot family (including multiple clones of the ones we know best), but the most widely travelled are Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Meunier. Grapevine scientists have estimated that the origins of the family are indeed French, and probably Burgundian, hence the well-known French names. As for the family resemblance, there are a few similarities— though we cannot make sweeping generalizations. In the vineyard, the Pinot varieties show grape bunches that are roughly shaped like a pine cone (sounds like Pinot—not a coincidence). Whatever expression is in the glass; whether the colour is red, white, rosé, or orange;* whether it is dry, sweet, or somewhere between, the Pinot family can be capable of greatness. Well-made Pinots will have balanced, sometimes lively acidity, and these wines can have positively entrancing aromatics. Generally speaking, its vines do not like really hot climates, and its wines tend to lose their charm if the weather has been too warm. In winemaking, they are seldom blended; rather, they often play solo parts. Beyond these connections, it is a big, varied world for Pinot. *See page 25 for a crash course on orange wine!

JonesWines.com 35

From its original home in Burgundy, the family moved, first within Europe and later widely. Migrating north in France, the family found a home in Champagne. The current list of approved grape varieties for the world’s most luxurious sparkling wine includes all of the important Pinots. In fact, Pinot Meunier is so reliably used in Champagne blends that its plantings there are surpassed only by Pinot Noir. These two Pinots account for close to 70% of plantings in Champagne (Chardonnay accounts for almost all the remaining). It is not widely known, but Champagne regulations actually allow for a few others that appear from time to time in tiny quantities. Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are, importantly, in that list. Further east in France, the family made a home in Alsace. This region is arguably where the noblest expression of Pinot Gris can be found: this is the only Pinot that can qualify as a Grand Cru in Alsace. Pinot Blanc makes itself useful in Alsace sparkling Crémant, and their Pinot Noir wines can be positively delicious. Travelling with medieval monasteries, the Pinot family also found themselves in Germany, adopting new German names. The Germans recognized their first home and dubbed them “Burgunder:” predictably Pinot Blanc became Weissburgunder and Pinot Gris, Grauburgunder. Pinot Noir, the latest to ripen, became Spätburgunder (Spät means late in German), and the miller’s grape was translated directly as Müller-rebe. Name-changing translations continued in Italy, where Noir became Nero, Blanc became Bianco, and Gris became Grigio (which has come to have a life of its own). As the family has migrated around the world, the reputation has grown. To explore the Pinots is to find a remarkable richness in wine.

36 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

Species, Varieties, Cultivars, and Clones By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier The topic of Pinots is a portal into a world of viticultural terms. Start with the naming of the grapevine according to its genus and species, Vitus vinifera, a term that covers the vast majority of all commercially important wine grapes. Although consumers may be unconcerned with the grapevine’s Latin name, they do pay attention to a wine’s grape variety as they recognize their favourite varietal wines under names such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Zibibbo— and of course, Pinot. Within a variety, there are specific cultivars (cultivated varieties) that share the general character of the variety but differ in some traits important to winegrowers. Very demanding growers may go a step further and select clones: genetically identical vines with a direct lineage to a single parent. Increasingly and especially for Pinot Noir, New World producers are providing details of the specific clones used in their wines. They do so because each clone is slightly different, and they claim that a combination of clones increases wine complexity. This is a modern concern because, historically, mature vineyards developed a natural genetic diversity that resulted in wine complexity. But there is a caveat in that such natural diversity leads to more and less desirable vines. In order to continually improve a vineyard and maintain diversity, growers learned to repeatedly select a handful of their best vines for onward propagation (massal selection).

The Family Tree Where in the world is your Pinot?

Pinot Noir: Argentina, Austria, Australia, Canada (Ontario, BC, Nova Scotia), Chile, France (Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace, Loire Valley, south of France), Germany, Italy (northeast), New Zealand, South Africa, USA (California, Oregon)

Pinot Gris/Grigio: Argentina, Australia, Austria, Chile, France (Alsace), Germany, Hungary, Italy (northeast), Canada (Okanagan, Niagara), New Zealand, USA (California, Oregon)

Pinot Blanc: France, Germany, Italy (northeast), Austria, Hungary, USA (California, Oregon)

Pinot Meunier: Canada (Nova Scotia), France (Champagne), Germany, Austria, Australia

The Heartbreaker: Pinot Noir By Ricki-Lee Podolecki In the Pinot family, Pinot Noir is the head of the household. Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are mutations of Pinot Noir, thus they are actually all the same variety but with different expressions. The grape has always held a superior place in the wine world. It all starts in its birthplace, Burgundy, where Pinot Noir’s main purpose is to highlight the vineyards it grows in and show off the unique terroir of the region. One site in an absolute premium position, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, produces a single-vineyard Grand Cru Romanée-Conti wine 38 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

that costs upwards of US$ 20,000 per bottle. It’s basically impossible to get your hands on, and even if you do happen to see one for sale, for many, weighing the options of buying a brand new car or a bottle of wine would be difficult. Pinot Noir has also had its Hollywood moment: its popularity in the mainstream surged in 2004 because of the movie Sideways, where the main character gushed over his love for Pinot Noir. Wine professionals everywhere love Pinot Noir, but this beautiful wine has a dark side: it has been hailed as “the heartbreak grape.” Pinot Noir’s unfortunate nickname stems from its high-maintenance reputation in the vineyards and the winery. The thin skins of Pinot Noir are tricky to maintain while it is growing, often breaking open and causing rot and disease that spoil the fruit. It truly is heartbreaking

when vineyard teams work tirelessly day and night to grow stunning fruit for a winemaker, and then, in the last stretch of harvest, the grapes succumb to nature. Winemakers also experience Pinot Noir’s fussy nature when they start the winemaking process. The slightest mistake on the part of winemaking teams can lead to the tragedy of oxidized characteristics that hide all of Pinot Noir’s delicate flavours. Knowing how difficult Pinot Noir can be, why would anyone in their right mind go through the trouble of making it? It’s because when everything goes right in this relationship, you end up with everlasting love. Yes, this relationship is very onesided, but the result of everyone’s patience with Pinot Noir can be extraordinary. Pinot Noir is a romantic wine with flavours that often resemble fresh red fruit, forest floor, oak spice, and the occasional floral lift. It’s easy to fall in love with a wellmade bottle. Many wine lovers—like myself—have come across a bottle of Pinot Noir that makes them feel that schoolyard first love, and from then on, we chase that feeling. I have fallen in love with two amazing wines from two very different regions that are the result of everything going right. The first was the 2017 Maison Harbour CharmesChambertin Grand Cru from Burgundy, which only produced 271 bottles. This wine showcases the elegance and prestige that result from a lot of care and patience. My other love is the 2017 Sonoma Coast Moone Tsai, a bold style of Pinot Noir destined for greatness after a few years in the bottle. This little heartbreaker is worth it. I can’t help but support the incredible teams that are making these wines: I have to keep chasing that first love feeling....

Celebrate International Pinot Noir Day on August 18! We recommend the Claude Vialade 2019 Elegance 43.74 Nord Pinot Noir from Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($21.99).

• Peter Max 2019 Crystallum Western Cape, South Africa ($42.99) • Trentham Estate 2019 River Retreat New South Wales, Australia ($13.99) • Maison Harbour 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Burgundy, France ($394.99) • Moone Tsai 2017 Corinne Sonoma Coast, USA ($189.99) • Thörle 2017 Rheinhessen, Germany ($24.99) • Ventisquero 2018 Reserva Casablanca Valley, Chile ($15.99)

AKA: Red Burgundy, Spätburgunder (Germany), Pinot Nero (Italy) STYLE: The structure of Pinot Noir wine generally shows

high acidity, medium to light body due to silky soft tannins, medium to low alcohol, and is made in a dry style (not sweet). Its flavours are mostly comprised of red fruits, such as cherries and strawberries; notes of forest floor and mushroom; and elegant floral components, tied together with oak’s vanilla toast and spice.

PERSONALITY: You can drink me at any special

occasion or just on a weeknight with a really great dinner. I’m the popular Pinot and not shy about it.

DID YOU KNOW… • Pinot Noir is one of three main varieties that go into the production of Champagne. • Because it is so precious in Burgundy, and hail is a common issue there, many vineyards install hail cannons/rockets that break apart clouds to prevent damage to the vines. • There are over 50 clones of Pinot Noir, each creating a slightly different style of Pinot Noir, depending on the winemaker’s preference. Clones 375 and 386 are most commonly used in Champagne, whereas other clones may be more heat resistant and are planted in warmer climates.

PAIR WITH: Classic pairings include duck confit, salmon, mushroom-based dishes, and root vegetables. Pinot Noir is a versatile food wine, but it really shines when paired with savoury, earthy dishes.

JonesWines.com 39

Team Player: Pinot Meunier By Sylvia Jansen A black (red) grape variety, lighter in colour and tannins than Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier is said to be in the top 10 varieties grown in France—but it definitely does not get top-10 billing. Pinot Meunier is almost unknown in the rest of the wine world, but in northern France, it is best known as one of the three main varieties in Champagne. It is a reliable variety in the vineyard and ripens well, even in cooler or more northerly facing spots (particularly along the Marne River). Despite its reliability in the vineyard and in the winery, few producers trumpet their quality Pinot Meunier, which means that, like its sister Pinot Blanc, Meunier does not really get the respect it deserves.

• Laherte Freres nv Extra Brut Rosé Champagne, France ($78.99) • Krug nv Grande Cuvée Champagne, France ($448.99) • Benjamin Bridge 2016 Rosé Nova Scotia, Canada ($56.99)

AKA: Meunier, Müller-rebe and Schwarzriesling (Germany) STYLE: Pinot Meunier contributes fruit, freshness, and sometimes an earthy depth to Champagne. PERSONALITY: I know I hardly ever show up to the party on my own, but I am really worth getting to know. I want you to look for my beautiful nature in a good bottle of sparkling. I have some real finesse. PAIR WITH: The possibilities are endless, but try grilled salmon, or a beautiful tray of cheeses with brie or époisses garnished with an array of summer fruits.

Party Time: Pinot Gris By Mike Muirhead From Pinot Gris to Pinot Grigio, this branch of the family has always had some “grey” areas in establishing its own distinctive style. This Pinot Noir mutation presents itself as a regular bunch of Pinot Noir interspersed with white grapes and lighter-skinned Pinot Noir—more purple than black. In Alsace, it is prized as a “noble variety” that creates some sublime Grand Cru wines, whereas, in Italy, it is often relegated as an “everyday drinker” without a lot of complexity. Some producers in Alsace also produce very elegant sweet wines from Pinot Gris. A Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris (late vintage) from Paul Blanck in Alsace is still one of my defining wine moments. While often prized in Alsace, France, and consumed without a care in Italy, Pinot Gris has seen a huge surge in the last 10 years. Why has it been so popular? It is easy: not too acidic, not too aromatic, not too alcoholic (in most cases). It is the Goldilocks wine: juuuust right.

40 Order online: JonesWines.com/shop

• Thörle 2018 Grauburgunder Rheinhessen, Germany ($23.99) • Terlan 2018 Pinot Grigio TrentinoAlto Adige, Italy ($28.99) • Blue Mountain 2019 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, Canada ($31.99)

Fashionably Late: Pinot Blanc By Tina Jones This beautiful white variety does not get the respect it deserves. It is a mutation of Pinot Gris, which is a mutation of Pinot Noir—which is why we might see them all in similar places. In Burgundy, where it is said to have begun, there are a few plantings (yes, it is technically allowed in a few Burgundy appellations). Pinot Blanc is also one of the approved varieties in Champagne (although there are tiny, tiny quantities grown there). One of the only—and perhaps the most iconic—Pinot Blanc Champagnes comes from our own Roses de Jeanne: La Bolorée Champagne. It is a special treat!

• Zinck 2016 Portrait Alsace, France ($24.99) • Terlan 2016 Vorberg Alto Adige, Italy ($54.99) • Judith Beck 2019 Neusiedlersee, Austria ($25.99) • Roses de Jeanne nv La Bolorée Champagne, France ($219.99)

AKA: Pinot Bianco (Italy), Weissburgunder (Germany) STYLE: Its lovely Golden Delicious apple character, great body, and balanced acidity can be incredibly charming. For many, it has been known as a “poor person’s Chardonnay” because it is often planted on less desirable vineyards, thereby producing wines that have not been worshipped for their greatness. However, those who treat Pinot Blanc as a noble grape are rewarded with a wine that has real charm. PERSONALITY: I do not need to be the most popular—I just need you to know who I am. Whether I show up still and refined, or sparkling and bubbling all over, I can make your party happen. Just invite me. PAIR WITH: Give a nod to its Alsatian roots and go for an onion tart or quiche; it is beautiful with any cheeses that are delicately flavoured; and for sparkling wines with Pinot Blanc—the sky is the limit!

AKA: Pinot Grigio (Italy), Grauburgunder (Germany) STYLE: This variety is produced in two distinct styles of still

white wine: Gris, with a richer and more pronounced flavour profile and palate feel, and Grigio, often prized for its fresh acidity and easy-drinking style. At its peak—Grand Cru Pinot Gris from Alsace—the wine is rich, succulent, and complex with bright melon, passion fruit, and dried fruits. There are also complex versions of Pinot Grigio, especially from Terlan, a producer from the Trentino-Alto Adige region.

PERSONALITY: Drink me every day, anywhere. Where is the

party? I want to be talked about. I want to be paired with some rich food. I want to be taken seriously.

PAIR WITH: Pair this with mushroom risotto and apricot stuffed pork tenderloin, sushi rolls (especially California roll), and Linguine alle Vongole (aka, linguine with clams).

JonesWines.com 41

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Barbara Philip Talks Pinot Interview by Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier Photo courtesy of Barbara Philip

Winnipeg native Barbara Philip has built a remarkable career in the world of wine. In 2007, she became the first person in Western Canada to obtain their Master of Wine (MW). She has since become the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch (BCLDB) Category Manager (chief buyer and responsible for inventory management) for all European, sparkling, and fortified wines. In addition, she and her husband Iain Philip run Barbariain Wine Consulting, which specializes in presenting, teaching, and training in all aspects of the wine business. Gary Hewitt caught up with Barbara via Zoom to ask her about the current state of Pinots. Gary Hewitt (GH) In your role as Category Manager for European Selections, Sparkling, and Fortified Wines, you have a hand in shaping the wine experience in BC. What past and future trends do you see for the Pinot family of wine grapes?

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Barbara Philip (BP) Well, great question! I think, like the Pinots themselves, their trends are very hard to predict. Look at the highest-selling Pinot Noir in our market— and it’s probably the same in the Manitoba market—it is a Pinot Noir that doesn’t taste very much like Pinot Noir at all. So, you have consumers that are being introduced to Pinots that way. (Ed. note: Barbara is referring to higher-alcohol, full-bodied, New World Pinot Noirs that are uncharacteristic of the grape’s typical style.) But if you look at the fine Pinot Noirs of the world, the Burgundies of the world, demand has never been stronger. In my statistics, I see that it’s growing. Consultants, staff, and managers are calling me from the stores and saying, “You know what? Our shelves are empty.” For Pinot Noir, I think the future is very strong, and Pinot Gris does not really seem to be slowing down. People are

When we’re not travelling, you stick your nose in the glass, and you’re like, “Ah, I feel like I’m in Tuscany.” And thank goodness for this because it’s kept us travelling in our minds and our hearts all this year.

very comfortable with the different ways it manifests itself, from some beautiful Northern Italian selections to Alsace selections that are rich and deep and brassy-hued. And then, of course, we’ve got the classic neutral wines made in the Pinot Grigio style. Pinot Blanc will always be dear to my heart. It’s very difficult for me to say no when someone offers a beautiful one from Austria or Germany, or even from Italy. When I wrote my Master of Wine dissertation in 2006, the way people thought about Pinot Blanc was it was just a little bit boring; no one was really thrilled by it. And I think that this has carried on. I think it will always play a small role. GH Your Master of Wine thesis looked at the potential of Pinot Blanc in the Okanagan Valley. What inspired this line of study, and what was the outcome? BP A lot has changed since then! What was that? 15 years ago? Pinot Blanc always seemed to deliver these good, solid wines that to me tasted like the Okanagan. They tasted like orchard fruit and white flowers, maybe with a little bit of a sagey, herbal tone to them. So, I thought: this is such a great representation of the Okanagan. Because it looked at the business of wine, I also wanted to look at something that we could do in some kind of volume. The grapes can yield fairly well and still make a high-quality wine. It grew well in the north, and it grew well in the south (Okanagan Valley), which you can’t say about every other grape variety or any other great variety. On paper, it looked like if we were going to take something to the world as a signature grape variety, a calling card, it might have good potential. It also had the benefit, in my mind, of not being anybody else’s flagship, so we could claim it as our own. Pinot Blanc grows easily, and it could make decent wine on a consistent basis in many different parts of the Okanagan. We also found through tastings that the wine scored well. American tasters score the wines much higher than the Canadian tasters, and when I go to international awards

shows around the world and BC wines are in them, foreign judges rate them higher than the self-deprecating Canadians do. Harry McWatters and I always bonded about this because he had a real affection for Pinot Blanc. When it came to gathering producers and journalists that were willing to get behind it, marketers and large companies willing to support it, nobody was interested. People weren’t finding it sexy enough or exciting enough. Part of that was a real Canadian thing as well. I thought it would do well in the world because nobody else was doing it—but because no one else was doing it, we were too shy to say, “This is a great, worthy grapevine.” A lot of producers, especially the smaller ones, didn’t think it was really necessary for us to have a flagship to the world. Either they were happy to not sell to export markets, or if it was important to be on a wine list in New York, or a small, independent wine store in London, then they did that on the strength of their own brand. GH What do you see as the hidden gems or the surprises in the Pinot world? BP Some Pinot Noir that’s very interesting is from the Auvergne.* You have a lot of the Burgundian-sort of investments in it, but it’s lighter, it’s crispier, it satisfies. Obviously, it’s at a more accessible price. So, I’m very excited about that. And, I’m really excited about Pinot Blanc still. Over the last year, when we’re not travelling, you stick your nose in the glass, and you’re like, “Ah, I feel like I’m in Tuscany.” And thank goodness for this because it’s kept us travelling in our minds and our hearts all this year. I had a funny case in Vienna. I was by myself. It was kind of a lonely trip. So, there I am, having dinner by myself, with my schnitzel and glass of Pinot Blanc. But you know what, when I smelled the characteristics of the Pinot Blanc—an Austrian wine—it brought me home. *Cote d’Auvergne is a wine region in Central France in the extreme upper reaches of the Loire River watershed.

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Cottage Case or Couch Case? … either way, we’ve got you covered!

Jones & Company Cottage Cases are available till September long weekend. Cottage Case Red: $139.99 for 12 dry reds

Cottage Case White: $139.99 for 12 dry whites

Cottage Mixed Case: $179.99 for a baker’s dozen – a mix of reds, whites, rosé and 1 special hand-picked red

Cottage Case Rosé: $84.99 for 6 bottles of rosé

Cottage Case RWB: $169.99 for 12 bottles – a mix of rosés, whites, and bubbles

Reserve Red Case: $199.99 for 12 special reds

Three ways to order:

SUMMER 2021 FEATURE:

Online: joneswines.com/shop Call: 204.948.WINE (9463) Email: wine@joneswines.com Questions? Text us: 204.400.0499

FREE delivery for Cottage Cases within city limits (and to La Salle & Oakbank bi-weekly).

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PROFILE

Executive Chef Jesse Friesen

Academy Hospitality Group Photos by Ian McCausland

Jesse Friesen has built as diverse a homegrown culinary career as one can dream. When he started at Academy Hospitality Group as Executive Chef in 2016, Jesse had his work cut out for him: first taking Gusto through its big renovation and then systematizing Merchant to deal with two Jets playoff years in a row (2017, 2018). Jesse works alongside the incredibly talented chefs that bring us Pizzeria Gusto, Gusto North, The Merchant Kitchen, Yard Burger, and The Good Fight Taco. His culinary leadership and growth have helped develop some of the most innovative concepts in the city in the most challenging year our food scene has ever experienced— culminating in his new (and unexpected) role overseeing the food program at Mottola Grocery. Was Mottola Grocery always part of Academy Hospitality Group’s vision? There was always a plan for a store on the first floor of True North Square, but initially, it wasn’t on our plate. And then one day, Bobby [Mottola] pulled me aside and said, “So we’re also going to open up a store.” I had never worked at a store in my life. We got on a plane to Toronto and went to see McEwens and the crazy high-end grocery stores all over downtown to start planning. How did COVID affect the rollout of Mottola Grocery’s offerings? When we closed the second floor of True North Square for the first lockdown, Mottola Grocery was under construction. So we did our initial grocery meals through Gusto North’s kitchen. The first step was to focus on what people have always asked us for from our restaurants. For example, we offer our tomato sauce from Gusto North and at Pizzeria Gusto. Our first offering was just five prepared items. We developed more prepared items throughout the lockdown, and now we have hundreds of products under our private MG label: from Yard Sauce for the Yard Burger to staples like salad dressings, dips, spreads, and ready-prepared meals. You can get prepared

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dishes like The Merchant Kitchen’s Korean Fried Chicken strips and Pizzeria Gusto meatballs, and because the grocery is Italian themed, there is also a host of prepared Italian meals. Aside from our private label, we have four or five different farmers that we work with directly for fresh produce. We also have the café—which is coffee, grab-and-go salads, sandwiches and pastries. We have our floral department, our vanity department, and niche household items. And then we have the deli, of course, with everything from house-smoked and cured meats to local organic beef.

What happens when a grocery store is set up by a team with a restaurant background? Bobby’s philosophy has always been about building relationships. Everyone who works in the kitchen here comes from that restaurant background, so our approach is very customer-service oriented. If people are buying a lot of stuff and they’ve got their hands full, I’ll just go get them a cart, load it up for them and be like, “Okay, let’s go shopping.” People like it because I can narrow down options based on their needs. We also bring that extra level of experience to our products. For example, we carry Waygu beef in the deli, and a lot of people are intimidated to buy it—it’s expensive, and they hear that it’s easy to overcook. But we all have experience in the kitchen, so we can offer professional cooking tips with our products: “Season it with this, cook it this way, and serve it with this.” Did you ever imagine yourself overseeing a high-end grocery store when you took on the role of executive chef? It’s funny. No. I mean, I’m happy I did. As a student fresh out of college and even a couple of years after that, my goal was to be head chef somewhere. When I accomplished that, then I wanted to oversee multiple kitchens. Because of the incredible chefs and teams working in our restaurants, that’s what I’m able to do now. I have worked alongside each of them, and I am able to say: “Make it your own. If you need guidance, I will gladly give it to you.” But I trust their vision. Then the store opportunity happened. And I’m very happy because we have the freedom to make it our own. Like, I never thought in a million years that I’d be involved in the floral business. I’ve been very fortunate to have been presented with opportunities. And I’ve obviously worked my butt off to make sure that those opportunities continue to grow. In my past life, before this group, there was a turning point for me. It was like, do I just keep going down this path and see what happens? Or do I take a risk and be a part of the development of a restaurant group? It was a risk: I’d just had my first son. I remember my wife saying, “Are you sure? We just had a baby.” And I was like, “I think so. Yes, I’m going to do it.” And then we did it. And it worked out. To order delivery from Mottola Grocery, visit MottolaGrocery.com.

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Campfire Cookout With Saralyn Mehta, Rob Stansel, and Leah Watkins Photos by Ian McCausland If this past year has taught us anything, it is to seek joy in simple pleasures. It has also been a year to explore the great outdoors, whether that be camping in our amazing Manitoba parks and campsites, finding peace at the lake, or gathering safely with friends and family in our own backyards. Doing a fire-side food and wine pairing seemed like a no-brainer for the summer of 2021! These recipes are easy to prepare and transport if you are going camping—but they are just as easy to dress up as a gourmet spread for your backyard firepit. Leah created the perfect mouth-watering bison burger for your flames; Rob Stansel dressed up pie-iron gilled cheeses into something truly special; and Saralyn kept it deliciously simple with her seafood skewers. And don’t worry—we didn’t forget to pair the Jiffy Pop and s’mores!

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FLAME-GRILLED BISON BURGERS WITH JALAPEÑO BLUE CHEESE AIOLI Makes 6 patties 2 lbs ground bison 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp liquid smoke ½ small sweet onion, finely chopped ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs 2 cloves garlic, minced 1½ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp steak spice ½ tsp onion powder ½ tsp seasoning salt 2 eggs Mix all ingredients together and form burger patties to be tossed into a cast iron skillet and flame-grilled over the fire. Cook through to the desired temperature.

Jalapeño Blue Cheese Aioli 10–15 1–2 ½ cup ½ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup 1 1 tsp

pickled jalapeño slices whole fresh jalapeños mayo crumbled blue cheese shredded parmesan shredded mozzarella clove garlic, minced pickled jalapeño juice (from the can)

Mix together by hand—or in a food processor to get a smoother, creamier consistency. Assemble burgers on a sourdough bun with your favourite toppings and enjoy!

SHOP LOCAL! We asked Courtney at The Cheesemongers Fromagerie to suggest a melting cheese that wouldn’t compete with the blue cheese aioli. They set us up with L’Hercule de Charlevoix, a cow’s milk cheese from Quebec that was fruity, nutty and earthy. Sourdough buns from Mottola Grocery were perfectly sturdy on the outside and soft on the inside.

PAIR WITH: Tenuta Sette Cieli 2017 Rosso Noi 4 Bolgheri, Tuscany Italy ($46.99) Bertolani Alfredo nv Lambrusco Rosso Oro Secco Emilia-Romagna, Italy ($18.99) El Grillo y La Luna 2016 12 Lunas Red Blend Somontano, Spain ($22.99)

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PIE-IRON GRILLED CHEESE Pie-iron grilled cheese is the pinnacle of campfire eating. It can be as simple or as gourmet as you want it to be! Mix and match your favourite fixings!

THE FIXINGS:

BREAD

CHEESE

Marble rye Pumpernickel Sourdough

Gruyère Goat Cheese Old Cheddar

MEAT

CONDIMENTS

Bacon Serrano ham Spicy capicola

Fruit chutney Mustard Caramelized onions

PAIR WITH: Vinum Cellars 2018 The Insider Pinot Noir California, USA ($42.99) Benjamin Bridge 2020 Pet Nat Nova Scotia, Canada ($32.99) Staffelter-Hof 2018 Paradies Riesling Mosel, Germany ($22.99)

SHOP LOCAL! We went on a cross-town shopping spree for this one! For bread, Harvest Bakery & Deli bakes marble rye and pumpernickel fresh every day. Our editor’s partner, Rylan Hart, provided quarantine-perfected sourdough bread (courtesy of starter and training from Eadha Bread). For cheeses, The Cheesemongers Fromagerie suggested some perfect melting cow’s cheeses from Sweden, England, and France. We got our Smak Dab mustards and Mrs. Bridges Date and Fig Chutney from Jones & Company. We also couldn’t resist picking up the MG Peroni Mustard when we grabbed our cured meats from Mottola Grocery’s deli counter.

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GRILLED SEAFOOD SKEWERS 600 g 15 2 2 cups ½ cup 3 3 1 cup

Halibut fillets raw shrimp, size 21/25 or larger red bell peppers pineapple, cubed olive oil cloves garlic, finely chopped limes, juiced cilantro, separated Salt and pepper

Cut halibut into 1-inch cubes and red peppers into big enough chunks to skewer. Mix together the marinade: olive oil, lime juice, garlic, and half of the cilantro. Marinate the shrimp, halibut, and red peppers in a freezer bag or glass bowl (not metal) in the fridge overnight. When the fire is nice and hot, skewer the halibut, shrimp, peppers, and pineapple chunks. (We recommend using metal skewers over the fire, as bamboo will burn to dust.) Season with salt and pepper. Place the skewers on a firetop grill (either directly or on a rack). Cook over the fire, flipping once until the shrimp is pink throughout. Do not worry about undercooking the fish, as curing it in lime juice overnight (ceviche style) makes it safe to eat right out of the marinade. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro to serve.

SHOP LOCAL! We sourced our shrimp and halibut from Gimli Fish Market. We got our skewer rack from the good folks at Luxe Barbeque Company.

PAIR WITH: Selva Capuzza 2019 San Donino Chiaretto Rosato Lombardy, Italy ($22.99) Mas d’en Gil 2016 Coma Alta Priorat, Spain ($47.99) Enrique Mendoza 2018 La Tremenda Macabeo/Moscatel Alicante, Spain ($24.99)

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Summer Sippers from South Africa. WA LK ER B AY

Genevieve MCC $36.99

B O N C OUR AG E

Unwooded Chardonnay $18.99

JU NO

Sauvignon Blanc $17.99

SPIER

S PI ER

T HE C U R ATO R

Merlot/Sauvignon Blanc/Rosé $5.99 each

Chenin Blanc Chardonnay $12.99

White Blend $18.99

Profoundly changing the Manitoba landscape from a pin-hole view of South African wine to a dazzling panorama.

Featured wines available at Jones & Company Wine Merchants.

SNACKTIME! No fire is complete without s’mores and JiffyPop! When we asked what Saralyn would pair with her favourite campfire treat, Jiffy Pop, she replied without hesitation: “No brainer: Chardonnay.”

For your popcorn: Vinum 2018 Sierra Del Mar Chardonnay California Central Coast, USA ($26.99). For the s’mores: Union Wine Co. Underwood White or Rosé Bubbles (Oregon, $12.99/375 ml).

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Available exclusively at

Civettina (chi-veh-TINA) is made from grapes hand selected by Tina Jones. Just ask us for the wine Tina made!

WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS WINE, BEER, AND SPIRITS COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.

W CO

D R & IN E NI

N MA

We are happy to announce six new WSET Level 2 in Wines graduates in the Jones & Company team! This small group assembled (complying with COVID-19 restrictions in place) to tackle the WSET 2 qualifications under the guidance of our teaching team, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Sylvia Jansen, and Gary Hewit.

Jenny VanDenDriessche The office manager knows all, sees all, and catches all our mistakes. When we are lucky, we get to work with someone like Jenny, who has that rare ability to see our mistakes and love us anyway. Since 2014, Jenny has been sorting out the intricacies of everything from payables to receivables to balancing and reporting—in short, she takes care of all those areas that are above the heads of the wine geeks. She can frequently be seen in front of the California Cabernets or the South African Pinotage collections, where, in her view, the selections are very good for ending a day filled with numbers.

Leah Watkins Leah is a key team member who understands that to support local means being passionate about turning the everyday into the extraordinary. She joined Jones & Company in 2020, bringing first-class experience in sports and entertainment management, team building, client relations, and marketing to our team. She describes the opportunity to join the Jones & Company family as an adventure and a challenge. Leah has jumped into the wine world with enthusiasm to learn and a desire to make our customers’ experiences extraordinary. Her own loves include big Cabernet Sauvignons and Tempranillo.

Alyona Lyubytska Wine has always been part of Alyona’s life. As a child, she helped her grandfather crush grapes and make wine in his cellar in the south of Ukraine. The joy of those connections led her to later work in wine tourism, to challenge herself to learn multiple languages, and to move to Canada with her family. She joined our team in 2019, and she has eagerly applied herself to wine studies at WDCM. She is one of our key front-of-house staff, helping customers and building beautiful baskets when we need them. Alyona is a fan of Bordeaux and Bordeaux-style reds but is always keen to learn your favourite wine style!

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Dylan Watkins Dylan is learning the business of Jones & Company from front to back. He is one of our core frontof-house customer service team members and also works with our delivery logistics, sending wine to restaurant and retail customers around our fair city. Dylan joined our team in March 2020 with experience in service and bartending at Smith Restaurant. He has found the wine world to be everengaging and interesting. Dylan loves Chianti Classico and Côtes du Rhône wines, but he also loves a challenge: ask him the hardest wine question you can think of, and he will find the answer!

James Johnston James is a wine student in our WSET programs, a core team member who keeps our stock well organized, someone who can find anything in our maze of a store cellar, and a musician who plays the flute, the oboe, and the clarinet. He joined us in 2017 and has been an anchor for the team ever since, pulling wines for our important retail customers and always lending a hand to our logistics team. If you find him working in the cellar, you might hear one of his favourite musicals on the speakers. In-store, he may be soft-spoken, but he knows more about wine than he usually lets on!

Manon Paquin Manon Paquin joined the Jones & Company team as General Manager in October 2020. She has more than 15 years of experience in management, team building, and hospitality. She has worked for much of her career with Joey Restaurants, a great partner of Jones & Company. A few years ago, Manon also took on the challenge of opening a new concept in a new city, launching The Local in Ottawa to great success. She returned to Winnipeg to head Joey Kenaston. She joined our team in search of a new adventure. Manon loves teamwork and people. Importantly, she also loves wine, and the great wines of Burgundy hold a special place in her heart!

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culinary partners

1. La Roca: Tableside Guacamole and Mixed Tostada pair perfectly with Tempus Two Pinot Grigio (Australia). 2. Smith Restaurant: A day at the Forks with Journey’s End Bees Knees Chenin Blanc Viognier (South Africa), Laurent Miquel Père et Fils Rosé (France) and Cauliflower Fritters. 3. The Wood Tavern: Claude Val Grenache/Cinsault/Syrah Rosé (France) pairs well with the Tavern’s Foraged Greens Summer Salad and Spicy Fire-Grilled Shrimp. 4. The Merchant Kitchen: William Rozzi serves up Dan Dan Noodles and Bat Gara – Goianea Winery UNO Txakoli (Spain).

5. Bluestone Cottage Bakery and Café: Scott Houston serves Andrew Mihaychuk Alfredo Bertolani Rosato Secco Rosé Lambrusco (Italy) with the Dilly Green Salad. 6. The Peasant Cookery: Gillian McKee and Kelly Chipping enjoy a Spinach and Beet Salad & Mediterranean Tarte Flambé with their Charles de Fere Cuvée Jean Louis Sparkling Rosé (France). 7. Cibo Waterfront Café: Matua Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) is perfect on a Waterfront summer day with Double Pepperoni Pizza and Bruschetta.

8. Tony Roma’s: Fern Soriano enjoys his Filet Medallions with Cline Family Cellars Red Farmhouse California Red Blend (United States) 9. Amsterdam Tearoom: Kim, Jordan, and Natalie pair their 35-year-old Tea Brined Tuna with Paul Mas Claude Val Rosé (France). 10. Gusto North: Lynn Tran enjoys the first summer on this downtown patio with scallops and Rivera Scariazzo Rupicolo Fiano (Italy). 11. Preservation Hall: Loyal customers Shannon Zywina, Judi Hanson, and Geoff Zywina pair Blue Mountain Pinot Noir (Canada) with Green Flatbread, Charcuterie, and Steak Tartare (Photo by Bohdan Dyck).

12. Prairie’s Edge: Helga Klassen (left) enjoys the Beet Salad with MGM Mondo Del Vino Il Padrino Pinot Grigio (Italy) and Helga Thiessen (right) pairs the Fried Chicken Sandwich and fries with Vinadeis Reserve St. Martin Rosé (France). 13. Restö at Thermëa Spa: Red Wine Berry Sangria and Orange Vanilla Sorbet Mimosa are served up with the house-made Charcuterie Board. 14. 529 Wellington: Gary Hewitt enjoys a glass of Marcel Vézien L’Illustre Brut Champagne (France) on the terrace. Please support local restaurants. For a list of our Culinary Partners, check out JonesWines.com/our-partners.

Photo by Ian McCausland

GARY’S CORNER

Viruses and Wine By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier It is no surprise that the topic of viruses has been on my mind—and the topic of wine is always on my mind. So, I started musing about viruses and wine.

attack on malolactic bacteria by specialized viruses called bacteriophages that destroy the beneficial bacteria and prevent the softening of acidity desired in many wines.

You likely know that viruses are tiny infectious agents that hijack host organisms to make more viruses. Viruses are incapable of self-replication and are entirely dependent on their hosts, yet they are highly specific in their choice of host—whether a bacterium, yeast, fungus, plant, or animal—and they occasionally migrate between related species. Sometimes viruses employ a vector organism that carries them with impunity to their target host.

But not all is doom and gloom regarding viruses in the wine world. For example, viruses have been harnessed to introduce beneficial genes into vines, yeasts, and bacteria, although more recent technologies are making such methods dated. The process is much the same as an infection, but instead of inserting viral genes, the virus is modified to insert beneficial genes, such as disease resistance, or to enhance flavour characteristics. Another positive effect of viruses is the 2020 finding that specific bacteriophages target spoilage bacteria responsible for off-putting vinegar and nail-polish remover smells. Their use could eliminate the need to use sulphur dioxide as a preservative—eliminating sulphite headaches in sensitive consumers in the process.

The most obvious impact of viruses in the wine world occurs in the vineyard, where 86 viruses are known to infect grapevines. Some have colourful names such as fanleaf virus, red blotch, and mosaic virus. The vectors that transmit them are a nefarious group of mealybugs, soft-scale insects, aphids, dagger nematodes, treehoppers, and mites. Viral infections often manifest as leaf or stem deformities, yellow or red colouration (that can be quite attractive!), lack of vine vigour, and decline unto death. The impact can range from inconvenient low yields of grapes to the complete destruction of a vineyard. Sadly, there is usually no remedy, and vineyard management relies primarily on preventive rather than curative measures. For example, a nematode vector capable of infecting vine roots with a virus may be thwarted by the use of nematode-resistant rootstock. Often the only recourse is vine removal and replanting with virus-free stock, and this is always expensive. Less obvious, more esoteric impacts of viruses occur in the winery, where viruses can affect the yeast and bacteria involved in winemaking. An example is the “killer yeast” phenomenon first observed in the 1970s that helped explain why some fermentations become “stuck,” in that they slow down or stop. It emerged that certain yeasts produce toxins lethal to other yeasts, even of the same species, but not to themselves. Only later was it discovered that viruses create the killers by installing genes for the toxins and for protecting the host. It seems a precarious balance for the virus, but it works. Another example is the

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Finally, to turn the tables, wine appears to protect against several viruses, including rhinoviruses and coronaviruses. The effect “appears reflected in the reduced incidence of the common cold in moderate alcohol consumers […] particularly those drinking red wines,” according to Ron Jackson in Wine Science. This good news was recently supplemented with the announcement that tannic acid, a form of tannin present in oak-aged red wines, “suppresses” the COVID-19 virus. No one is advocating copious consumption of Cabernet, but a little may not hurt. Whether good, bad, or ugly, the world of viruses is complex and compelling. My musings led me to discover that viruses are the most abundant biological entities on Earth and that viruses are major drivers of evolutionary change—by one estimate, a startling 30% of all protein adaptations since humans’ divergence with chimpanzees are due to viruses. David Enard of Stanford University posits: “When you have a pandemic or an epidemic at some point in evolution, the population that is targeted by the virus either adapts, or goes extinct.” So, it seems best that we learn how to live with ’em because we sure ain’t gonna outlive ’em.

SANGRIA Summer IN A GLASS

The #1 selling Sangria in North America is available exclusively at

The Cellar Door Issue 39: Pinot

Articles inside

Santa Ema

Gary’s Corner

Culinary Partners

Wine and Drinks College Manitoba

Campfire Cookout

Barbara Philip Talks Pinot

The Family Tree

Profile

Ask a Sommelier

A Message from Tina Jones

A Family Like No Other: Pinot

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The Taste of Summer

Behind the Label

Jones & Company