Porschist 81 - East-Australia

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PORSCHIST ON K’GARI, EAST-AUSTRALIA

LAURENS VANTHOOR, 24 HOURS OF DAYTONA PORSCHE 911 CARRERA S

Brisbane and Fraser Island: from a cosmopolitan city to untouched nature.
Text: Kathleen Van Bremdt - Photos: Sven Hoyaux - Video: Michael Butler

his is the report of a special journey along the east coast of Australia. We made an unforgettable road trip in the company of two inspiring people: Michael Butler and Emma Stenhouse. Michael is an Australian documentary maker and proud owner of two Cayennes, one of which is beautifully wrapped in colourful Aboriginal art. Emma is the artist who provided that beautiful artwork. We enjoyed the vibrant city energy of Brisbane and the breathtaking, untouched beauty of Fraser Island.

Story Bridge, Brisbane.

Sometimes a Porschist trip has a long lead-up. About two years ago, Michael Butler responded to one of our social media posts with the question whether we would be interested in making a report about Australia. We learned that he was a cameraman, that he had already made documentaries for National Geographic and Discovery Channel, among others, and that he owned two Porsches. The seed was planted. Because there were other destinations in our diary at the time, the trip was postponed, but this year it finally happened. Michael worked out a ten-day programme that focused on Brisbane and Fraser Island. “Fraser Island is the most beautiful island on the east coast”, he assured us. .

BRISBANE

Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, is not the most famous city ‘Down Under’, but with 2.5 million inhabitants it is the third largest city in Australia. The city is lively, modern and charming. In contrast to other large cities, it is not hectic and tiring, but surprisingly relaxed. The Brisbane River , which meanders through the city like a blue vein and offers countless relaxation options on its banks, has a lot to do with this. The many parks and botanical gardens also ensure that nature is always within reach. Add to that the wonderful subtropical climate and the hospitality of the friendly inhabitants and you get a very attractive cocktail. Incidentally, the city was once voted one of the best cities in the world to live in and we also immediately have the feeling that we would fit in very well there.

EMPORIUM HOTEL SOUTH BANK

We are staying at the 5-star Emporium Hotel South Bank , one of the city’s best hotels. From our suite on the 16th floor, we have a fantastic view of the city skyline. The hotel opened in 2018 as the final part of the prestigious Southpoint project and set new standards for style, comfort and service. The Southpoint project - which had a price tag of around AUD 600 million - was developed by leading architect and development duo Anthony and Francine John. With their forward-thinking ideas and design-led approach, they succeeded in creating a city district that brings together residential, retail, hotel and office space in one attractive environment. The two visionaries have contributed significantly to the urban transformation of Brisbane. The project took six years to develop. The Emporium Hotel is their showpiece and has already won many awards. The iconic rooftop on the 21st floor - The Terrace - is a Brisbane institution and a much-loved place to have aperitifs and dinner. On Friday nights it is the place to be for an after-work drink and a lot of beautiful people appear on the scene.

Emporium Hotel South Bank, Brisbane.

THE FIRST MEETING WITH MICHAEL BUTLER

When you have been in contact with someone for a long time, but have never met in person, the moment when it finally happens is quite exciting. Michael Butler walks into the lobby of the hotel in a relaxed manner. He is a tall, imposing man with a lot of charisma, an irresistible enthusiasm and wonderfully down to earth. It doesn’t feel like we are meeting each other for the first time at all. There is an immediate feeling of familiarity and cordiality, like between good friends. He takes us to his Cayenne that is parked in front of the entrance of the hotel. The car is breathtaking. Emma Stenhouse, the Aboriginal artist who drew the artwork, has clearly put her heart and soul into it. Colourful drawings adorn the Porsche: turquoise blue at the front, khaki and reddish brown at the back, in between a blank space on which Michael's company 'Butler Media' is displayed (a bit of advertising is allowed) and with 'Porschist' in large letters on the roof spoiler as the icing on the cake. Everyone who drives or walks past looks at the car with curiosity and admiration. At dusk we capture the Porsche on camera, with the logo of the Emporium Hotel glowing bright orange in the background.

One of the city's finest hotels, the 5-star Emporium Hotel South Bank is the flagship of the prestigious Southpoint project.

EXPLORING BRISBANE

While Michael is dealing with some business in the city, we explore the city. Our hotel is located on the south bank of the Brisbane River. With the CityCat, the river ferry, we get to the other side in no time. The many water buses are an integral part of the public transport in the city and are used a lot. From the water we have a magnificent view of the iconic Story Bridge that proudly stretches across the river over a length of no less than 777 metres. The steel construction seems to almost float with its high arches and is an eye-catching structure that dominates the entire cityscape. The bridge has connected the city centre with the northern and southern districts since 1940. It is not only an important traffic artery, but also a popular tourist attraction. Those who feel called upon can climb the bridge under expert guidance to admire Brisbane from above. The bridge is even more impressive at night when it is beautifully lit and shines in all its glory against the city skyline.

Brisbane's city centre consists mainly of modern high-rise buildings. Historic buildings such as the City Hall, Albert Church and the Cathedral of St Stephen simply stand undisturbed in the middle of it. The Gothic towers and old stones form a strange contrast with the sea of gleaming skyscrapers. The restaurants and bars line up along the long promenade along the Brisbane River. It is pleasantly busy, and the terraces are well occupied. We manage to find a nice spot and enjoy some tasty pasta. While we eat, we observe the many joggers, skaters and cyclists. On the water, there is plenty of kayaking and sailing. It seems as if no one has to work in this city. Some houses have a jetty where boats are moored, ready for a pleasure trip on the river or to one of the nearby islands.

Cathedral of St Stephen , Albert Church and City Hall, Brisbane.
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NOOSA

We leave Brisbane and drive to Noosa where Michael lives, a drive of about two hours. Michael entertains us on the way with stories about his life and his many adventures. The man has certainly experienced life. (See interview on page 34.) On the way we see countless campers, the Australians’ favourite way to get away. Whether it is for a weekend or a few weeks: into the bush or the outback, or to a remote beach and live there to the rhythm of nature. Freedom, happiness. Camping is deeply rooted in Australian culture.

Michael is no different, because his driveway houses a brand new camper trailer that to our great surprise is also wrapped in the same

patterns and colours as the Cayenne. When Michael has hitched the camper behind the Porsche a few hours later, the whole thing forms a perfect picture. The drawings on the Cayenne seamlessly merge into those of the trailer. The brand of the CrossTrak is Jayco. The name does not mean much to us, but for Australians Jayco is a household name. “They are the largest camper manufacturer in the Southern Hemisphere and the market leader in Australia”, Michael explains. “Their range is very wide, from compact models to very luxurious motorhomes. The common denominator is that all their vehicles are the cream of the crop because of their innovative designs and technologies”. Michael is visibly proud of the camper. He has good contacts at Jayco and has concluded a nice sponsorship agreement. The unique and striking camper is of course fantastic mobile advertising for the manufacturer and the unique photos that we will take on Fraser Island will provide rewarding marketing material.

The Cayenne's colorful wrapping in Aboriginal art blends seamlessly with the Jayco Crosstrak.
Wrapped Cayenne and Jayco Crosstrak at the ferry in Hervey Bay.

TAKING THE FERRY TO FRASER ISLAND

The next day we drive to the coastal town of Hervey Bay where we take the ferry to Fraser Island. In the meantime Emma has also arrived from Melbourne. She was very enthusiastic when she saw the result of her design work. Michael and Emma drive in front and we follow in Michael's other Cayenne. The road is perfect, and we cruise through deep green forests and past vast fields with waving light purple palm trees. The closer we get to the sea, the more of those typical Queenslander houses we see: made of wood and on stilts so that there is as little damage as possible in the event of flooding.

We just miss the 1 p.m. ferry, but that gives us time to take pictures of the two Porsches and the trailer and have a small snack. Michael films, our cameras click. Slowly more cars arrive. Well, cars... no matter how powerful the Cayenne is, it pales in comparison to the enormous 4x4s and heavy campers of the other travellers. They are true monster trucks, loaded from top to bottom with all the things that a person could possibly need for a stay of several days in remote places. The owners look just as impressive: broad torsos, rough beards, dark sunglasses, sturdy cargo pants and arms full of tattoos that undoubtedly reach further than the eye can see. But the wrapped Cayenne… that is what everyone comes to look at. A ship's horn signals that it is time to board. All cars have to drive backwards onto the boat. With our Cayenne that is no problem, but for Michael - who is driving with the trailer for the first time - it is tricky for a moment. But the stress was not necessary at all, because the manoeuvre goes flawlessly.

NOT FRASER ISLAND BUT K’GARI

The crossing takes about 40 minutes, and we soon see the silhouette of the island looming: golden beaches around a large, green core. The island is 123 kilometres long and 5 to 22 kilometres wide. With an area of 184,000 hectares, it is the largest sand island in the world. We can immediately feel that this is a place where nature is still completely in control. The name Fraser Island was introduced in the 19th century, named after Captain James Fraser, who was shipwrecked near the island in 1836. However, the indigenous population, the Butchulla , had been calling the island K’gari for thousands of years. In June 2023, the Queensland government officially changed the name back to K’gari. The restoration of the traditional name reflects the recognition of the cultural significance and history of the island for the Butchulla community. In the rest of the report, we will therefore use the name K’gari.

K’gari means ‘paradise’. According to the mythology of the Butchulla community, the island was created by a divine spirit. Legend has it that K’gari, a female sky spirit, was so enchanted by the beauty of the earth that she asked to stay there. The creator transformed her into a beautiful island with lakes through which she could look up to the sky and which bore her name. The island’s natural beauty is so unique that K’gari was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. K’gari is a precious part of Australia’s natural and cultural heritage and is protected to ensure its continued existence and enjoyment for all.

Butchulla, indigenous population of K’gari.

KINGFISHER BAY RESORT

There are various accommodation options on K’gari, ranging from hotel resorts, campsites, holiday homes to glamping options. Those who really want to go back to basics can even pitch their tent in certain places in the wild. Wherever you want to stay, you must book in advance. Because K’gari is a protected nature reserve, the number of visitors is deliberately limited. We are staying at the beautiful Kingfisher Bay Resort , located on the west side of the island near the jetty where the ferry arrives. The resort was designed with great respect for the ecosystem and is a harmonious mix of comfort and sustainability. Due to the low-rise buildings and materials used, it blends in completely with the surrounding nature. Wooden walkways connect the 152 rooms with the main building where the reception and restaurants are located. Our room is spacious and practical with large windows. From the terrace we look out over a beautiful, natural pond. Apart from the many bird sounds, there is complete silence. If you can't relax here, you won't be able to anywhere.

Designed with great respect for the ecosystem, the Kingfisher Bay Resort is a harmonious blend of comfort and sustainability.
Kingfisher Bay Resort, K’gari Island.

RAINFOREST IN K’GARI: A NATURAL WONDER ON SAND

K’gari is not only unique because it is the largest sand island in the world, but also because a dense subtropical rainforest grows on that sand – a phenomenon that occurs nowhere else in the world. In the forest we are surrounded by towering kauri trees, enormous pine trees and whimsical dragon trees that form a natural dome. The sunlight is filtered through the dense canopy to create golden areas on the moist soil. Centuries-old giant ferns fan out luxuriantly. Emma immediately draws inspiration for new designs from the whimsical patterns in the tree bark, the different shapes of the leaves and the many shades of brown, red and green. Very typical of K’gari are the spectacular satin trees or Syncarpia hillii as they are officially called. Some are more than 1000 years old. The tree produces a very special type of wood that is resistant to fire and termites and has long been used for ship masts. The wood was even used for mooring posts in the Suez Canal. Tree felling is no longer permitted on K’gari. The Cayenne is doing a great job, by the way. It makes its way through the forest without any problems, bumping along the unpaved, winding paths with many holes and obstacles. We now understand why K’gari is strictly 4x4 territory. With the exception of the small, paved area of road in the resort, there are only unpaved roads on the island. The Porsche is made for off-road trails and clearly feels at home here.

K'gari is unique not only because it is the largest sand island in the world, but also because a dense subtropical rainforest grows on that sand.
Photo: Peter Meyer

SPOTTING BIRDS AND DINGOES

K’gari is home to more than 350 species of birds, from majestic birds of prey to small songbirds. The varied landscape of forests, mangroves, freshwater lakes and beaches attracts a great diversity. In spring and autumn, the island is an important stopover for migratory birds on their long journey from Australia to Siberia and back. Apart from the birds - which we mostly hear rather than see - there are surprisingly not many animals living on K’gari. The most common mammals are bats and dingoes. We see warning signs for dingoes everywhere. The animals look cuddly, but they are wild and likely to lash out. So we have to keep our distance. They are beautiful animals with a slim and muscular body and sandycoloured fur, perfectly adapted to life on K’gari.

Some dingo' in the dunes. - Photo: Peter Meyer

LAKE MCKENZIE: A SACRED LAKE

K’gari has about forty freshwater lakes that lie like hidden treasures in the interior of the island and whose water is so pure that it is drinkable. Some are more than 300,000 years old, older than all coastal lakes in Australia. For the Butchulla, the pools are sacred. The most beautiful is Lake McKenzie . Because it lies a lot higher than sea level, it is only fed by rainwater. The water is so clear that we can count the grains of sand on the bottom one by one. A pristine, snow-white and powder-soft sandy beach surrounds the lake. You would think that the pristine lakes of K’gari are full of life, but that is not the case. The water is simply too clean for that. Very strange. In any case, the lake is the perfect place for a swimming break. Emma is the first to wade into the water and lets herself float. Like a big star, she lies motionless in the water for minutes. What we admire - and even envy a little - about Emma is her deep connection with nature. She has the talent to enjoy everything she sees and to consciously let every image seep in. Incidentally, the lakes are the only places where you can swim on K’gari. The sea is an absolute no-go zone because of the very strong current and the presence of dangerous sharks.

The crystal clear water of Lake McKenzie, K’gari Island.

75 MILE BEACH ROAD: A BEACH AS A HIGHWAY

We approach the east coast of the island. After a final bend, we drive freely onto the beach. In front of us lies an endless, deep blue ocean with white crested waves that eagerly roll onto the beach. The vast beach is known as the 75 Mile Beach Highway and is as long as the island. And we can take that word 'highway' literally, because while there is a speed limit of 30 kilometres per hour everywhere on the island, here we are allowed to push the accelerator pedal all the way down and race across the beach at a speed of 80 kilometres per hour. A pure adrenaline rush. Driving requires concentration and some skill, because the loose sand and the unexpected puddles are treacherous, but what a great sensation. It feels like we are floating. We drive as close to the waterline as possible. Seawater splashes against the Cayenne. On one side we see the deep blue of the Indian Ocean, on the other side the exotic beauty of the rainforest. This is the ultimate feeling of freedom.

Sven Hoyaux.
75 Mile Beach, K’gari Island.

A FLIGHT ABOVE K’GARI

The beach is not only used as a highway, but also as a runway. A small plane from Air Fraser offers pleasure flights. A plane is ready to take off and for 100 Australian dollars we can take to the air. From up high, the beauty of K’gari is even more impressive. We notice how elongated the island is. It looks like a long floating leaf or a natural dam. The 75 Mile Beach is really an almost straight stretch of coast. A stark contrast with the coastline on the other side, which is rugged with a multitude of bays and creeks. We see how the beach seamlessly merges into rolling dunes and disappears under the green canopy of the rainforest. Turquoise lakes shine like precious jewels and rivers cut through the landscape like silver ribbons. We are overjoyed when we spot a whale with its calf in the water. When does a person get to see something so beautiful? K’gari is timeless and pure. A magical, almost surreal setting that breathes in harmony with nature.

The almost dead straight coastal strip of 75 Mile Beach is used not only as a highway, but also as a runway.
Photo: Peter Meyer

There’s Nothing Like Australia

De diversiteit en uitgestrektheid maken van dit land een unieke bestemming. Zodra je voet aan wal zet in Australië, ervaar je de ongeëvenaarde en typerende gastvrijheid van de Aussies. In de deelstaat Queensland bevindt zich de derde grootste stad van Australië. Brisbane is een bruisende stad, gekend voor haar vele terrasjes, restaurants, zijn strand,… Een aanrader is een wandeling langs de rivier via South Bank en de City Botanic Gardens. Hier bevindt zich ook het luxueuze Emporium Hotel South Bank met stijlvolle kamers, een aangename rooftop terrace en infinity pool. Iets ten noorden van Brisbane bevindt zich het grootste zandeiland ter wereld K’gari, voordien gekend als Fraser Island. Dit is een must see voor wie van natuur, mooie stranden en avontuur houdt. Je kan er ook verblijven in

het Kingfisher Bay Resort. Daarnaast zijn er nog heel wat andere bezienswaardigheden die we graag opnemen in een reisvoorstel op maat naar uw wensen.

Brasschaat Travel is een kwalitatief reiskantoor, gespecialiseerd in belevingsreizen op maat. Wij werken voor deze reisbestemming graag samen met de reisspecialisten van Yindi Travel . Graag adviseren wij u, als ‘Aussie Specialist’ , in welke periode u best bepaalde regio’s in Australië kunt bezoeken. Op zoek naar je volgende droombestemming? Laat je inspireren op www.brasschaattravel.be en www.yinditravel.com

Onze specialisten tekenen graag een exclusieve rondreis op maat uit, rekening houdend met uw wensen.

MEDITATIVE SOUNDS

Michael learned to play the didgeridoo in the past and is very skilled at it. In his living room we had seen his impressive collection, each one beautifully painted by renowned Aboriginal artists. He brought one of these instruments with him on our journey. At this special place he retrieves the instrument from the car and plays a song as a thank you to the island that welcomes us so hospitably and showers us with so much beauty. The thundering sounds seem to come straight from the belly of the earth. Ancient tones that fade away in the clear blue sky. Just like Emma, Michael has a deep respect and understanding for Aboriginal culture.

Michael Butler and his didgeridoo.

THE MAHENO: A WRECK AS A WORK OF ART

The Pacific Ocean can be rough and unforgiving and has claimed quite a few ships in the past. Between 1856 and 1935, twenty-three shipwrecks were recorded in the waters of K’gari Island. The Maheno is the most famous wreck and has become a tourist attraction. The ship was built in 1905 and was one of the first turbine-powered steamships. For a long time, it was a luxury ocean liner that took passengers in luxury from Australia and New Zealand to Canada. During the First World War, it was converted into a floating hospital that served worldwide until it became a liner again in 1918. In 1935, the Maheno’s story came to an end, and it was sold for scrap to a Japanese newcomer and towed to Osaka. However, it never arrived there. During a violent cyclone in Queensland waters, the tow chain snapped, and the ship washed ashore on the K’gari coast. Several attempts were made to salvage the ship, but they failed. The ship now lies forever half-buried in the sand in the ocean surf, at the mercy of the elements. Mussels grow on the oxidised hull and fish slide in and out of the broken portholes. The contrast between the rust-brown weathered ship, the white beach and the clear blue sea is so beautiful that it almost looks like a work of art.

The contrast between the rust-brown, weathered ship, the warm yellow beach and the clear blue sea is so beautiful that it almost seems like a work of art.
Maheno shipwreck, K’gari Island.
Guyala Bayles - Photo: Angel Riley

Handgemaakte ring in 18kt witgoud met witte diamanten en een prachtige roze peervormige morganiet. Exclusief ontwerp door Maarten Slaets.

NIEUWE LOCATIE LEYSSTRAAT 1, 2000 ANTWERPEN - 03/213 50 80 SCHUTTERSHOFSTRAAT 30, 2000 ANTWERPEN - 03/226 41 44

GUYALA BAYLES: NATURAL BEAUTY AND VERSATILE TALENT

Unexpectedly, we are introduced to Guyala Bayles, a young woman with dark curls, a warm complexion and expressive eyes. We learn that she is an actress, model, poet and activist. A multifaceted talent. Her roots are in the Birri Gubba and Wonnarua Aboriginal nations, and she uses her platform to advocate for the rights of indigenous communities, shedding light on both cultural and social issues. Her commitment to these causes runs deep, as she comes from a family of passionate advocates – her grandfather, Tiga Bayles, was a highly respected First Nations radio host and land rights activist. Guyala provides us with two beautiful photos. The first shows her face painted with ochre, following the tradition she learned from her greatgrandmother. The message reads: think bimbi, see bimbi, speak bimbi and bimbi heart -' bimbi' means 'good' in the language of her Aboriginal tribe. The second photo is also special. In it, she poses with a leaf wreath in her hair and white painted upper body. 'That's just a creative composition,' she explains, 'but the first photo really has a deep meaning to me and is a sincere tribute to my origins.'

FAREWELL TO A TROPICAL WONDERLAND

It is our last evening on the island. With a beer in hand, we sit lazily on the beach enjoying another magisterial sunset. The cameraman in Michael, however, is ever alert. He straightens up. 'Those colors are amazing. I have to capture those.’ And he rushes to his room to get his camera. We are aware that we will well-lightly never return to this fantastic place on earth, and so we very consciously take in every detail: the sound of the surf, the smell of the sea, the pure air, the peace and space. We think of the almost impenetrable jungle we traversed, the misty streams we crossed, the clear lakes we swam in and the wonderful drive on the 75 Mile Highway. K'gari does something to a person. It gets under your skin. K'gari is a tropical wonderland, a place to cherish and - as the indigenous people have always known - a true paradise.

This trip offered us the best of both worlds: a unique combination of a modern city and pristine wilderness.
Guyala Bayles - Photo: Alicia Fox

A JOURNEY RICH IN IMPRESSIONS

Feeling wistful, we take the morning ferry back to the mainland. We install ourselves on the connecting piece between the Cayenne and the trailer. There we sit like four musketeers, wonderfully sheltered from the wind and with the sun on our faces. Our thoughts go back to the past two weeks. This trip offered us the best of both worlds: a unique combination of a modern city and an untouched wilderness. City lights versus starry skies, urban energy versus island dreams. We saw how a Porsche became a work of art and the work of art a story that brought together the present and the past.

CAPTURED FOREVER: THE FILM

A few days later we see the film that Michael made of our stay on K’gari. In an incredible way he has succeeded in capturing our deep impressions and emotions in a breathtaking film. The natural beauty of the island, the Cayenne drifting across the beach and making its way through the forest, the colourful artwork by Emma Stenhouse on the bodywork of the Porsche and the Jayco CrossTrak, the photogenic shipwreck on the shoreline, the sound of the whales, the little drop of water sliding down the end of the hood of the SUV… it gives us goosebumps. You can find the film on our website www.porschist.be. ♦

With thanks to:

- Michael Butler, documentary filmmaker and Porsche owner in Australië, butlermedia.com.au

- Emma Stenhouse, contemporary Aboriginal artist, emmastenhouse.com.au

- Emporium Hotel, emporiumhotels.com.au

- Kingfisher Bay Resort, kingfisherbay.com

- Jayco Australia, jayco.com.au

- Butchulla People, Kubbi Kubbi dancers and Guyala Bayles

- Nathalie Wouters, travel designer at Brasschaat Travel, Brasschaattravel.be

- Qatar Airways

Emma Stenhouse, Michael Butler, Kathleen Van Bremdt and Sven Hoyaux.

Documentary lmmaker Michael Butler:

master storyteller with the camera as his compass.

ichael Butler (59), born and raised in Brisbane, is a documentary filmmaker with over 30 years of experience. His adventurous spirit and his ability to capture compelling stories on film in a unique way have taken him all over the world. He has portrayed people from all walks of life, from athletes and supermodels to rock stars and indigenous peoples. Michael is particularly fascinated by the latter, and in particular the Aboriginals. Michael's documentaries are broadcast by prominent networks such as the Discovery Channel and the National Geographic Channel.

Text: Kathleen Van Bremdt - Photos: Samantha Martin

How did your professional career start?

In the army. I started as an infantryman when I was 18 but wanted to become a sniper. Unfortunately, during one of the military training sessions, things went terribly wrong, and I seriously injured my knee. A career in the army was no longer an option. I was 21 and at a crossroad in my life. Because I was limping badly due to my injury, I signed up for a Confidence and Deportment Certification. What I didn’t know was that it was a course to learn how to walk the catwalk. I was sitting there in a room full of beautiful girls and I thought, Hey, I’m the only guy here. It was actually hilarious, but one of the scouts there thought I had potential and before I knew it, I was Queensland Model of the Year. That was in 1987. It wasn’t really a big deal, but it opened doors for me, because I was offered assignments and contracts from all over the world. I travelled to Japan, Hong Kong, New York, London, Paris… you name it. I walked in fashion shows, made TV commercials and did photo shoot after photo shoot.

From camouflage to maquillage… that’s quite a career change. Did you enjoy it?

I loved it. Because it was such a completely unexpected change in my life. I found myself in a completely unknown world. Every day was different. One moment I would be advertising an expensive watch brand, the next it was bed linen or travel insurance. In one recording I might be a bridegroom, then a sailor, then a pilot or just a house husband. It was always something different, I met interesting people every day and was constantly on the road.

Michael Butler.

Yet at a certain point you became interested in what was happening behind the camera.

That's right. Working in front of the camera is fun, but I was looking for something more in-depth and wanted to work with the camera myself. I followed a two-year course at the film academy in New York and became a cameraman. I soon noticed that my love lay in making documentaries. Fiction wasn't really my thing, real life was. That's what I wanted to capture. So that's how I started a new phase in my life as a documentary maker.

What were the first documentaries you made about?

I have always sought adventure. The resilience of the human spirit has always intrigued me enormously. Among other things, I made a documentary at base camp Mount Everest. I also had the privilege of making a documentary for Discovery Channel about the legendary Djalu Gurruwiwi, an elder of the Yolngu community of Australia and a master didgeridoo maker and player. Incidentally, the Aboriginal name for the instrument is yidaki . Djalu played a pivotal role in sharing the meaning and spirituality of the instrument. He worked with artists and musicians all over the world and taught workshops everywhere. If anyone promoted respect and understanding for Aboriginal traditions, it was him. Sadly, he passed away in 2022. I count myself lucky, because he taught me how to play the yidaki

You lived with Aboriginals for several years. Where does your fascination for indigenous cultures come from? I want to explore where we as humans began. And you can find that in the old, traditional cultures. During my many travels, I have noticed that there is a common thread between all indigenous cultures around the world. There is a connection between all those people. This is expressed in simple things, such as searching for food, making fire, the specific activities of men and women, the deep connection with the earth and nature and the way in which they experience spirituality. What people really want is also universal. Whether it is in China, Nepal, Peru, Russia or Australia, people everywhere long for the same thing and those are three things: good health, happiness and family. I once interviewed a man who was a hundred. years old and asked him, “What did you learn during your 100 years on earth?” And he answered, “That people don't change much. And that's the nail on the head. History proves it over and over again.

You also filmed the OZ Trek. What was that?

In 2000, four men had the crazy idea to circumnavigate Australia on jet skis. They wanted to raise money for the cancer programme at Sydney Adventist Hospital. The

“The Message Stick Vehicle is a symbol of reconciliation and dialogue.”
Michael Butler
Michaels Message Stick Vehicle.

four men were Paul Fua, Lyndon Parmenter, Randall Jones and Brad Fraser, himself a cancer patient in remission. It was a trip of about 10,000 miles. Everyone said it was impossible, but the men managed to complete the task in 12 weeks. They called their project the OZ-Trek, with OZ of course referring to Australia. The men were accompanied by a land team of 10 men and 5 vehicles. They provided technical support, found places to stay, provided food and medical care if necessary. The whole trip also had to be filmed and that's where I came into the picture. I knew the bush and was the perfect person for the job. The men on the jet skis had to endure a lot, but it was just as tough for the land teams: storms, snakes, crocodiles, sharks ... we had to deal with many dangerous situations. My army training came in handy for that. I had learned how to survive in extreme situations. The most important thing is: never panic. Stay calm, let the situation sink in so that you can think clearly and react appropriately. That mentality has come in handy many times in my later life. The jet ski team raised 2.5 million Australian dollars. A fantastic result.

You also worked on the programme 'River Monsters' for Discovery Channel.

That's right. I ended up in quite a few tricky situations there as well. The programme was presented by fisherman and biologist Jeremey Wade. In the series we showed the life and habitats of some of the most terrifying, dangerous and mysterious freshwater fish in the world. Something like that really appeals to the imagination. Very exciting.

One of your most striking projects is The Message Stick Vehicle, a converted 1961 Land Rover that you used to visit over 200 Aboriginal artists.

With that project I wanted to capture in my own way the rich culture, traditions and history of the Aboriginal communities in Australia. There are over 200 clans or tribes in Australia. The Land Rover had served as an army ambulance in the Vietnam War. I drove it all over Australia.

Where does the name ‘Message Stick’ come from?

A message stick was a traditional communication tool in Aboriginal culture that was used to convey important messages between different communities or tribes. They were wooden sticks engraved with symbols or patterns that represented an important message. Because different groups often spoke different languages, symbols functioned as a visual and universal code. They were used in organising meetings, ceremonies or resolving conflicts. Messengers with a message stick were given permission to enter the territory of another group. A message stick acted as a sign of diplomacy and trust, symbolising respect and cooperation between communities. In essence, my Land Rover was a modern, mobile version of that original message stick. I drove it from one Aboriginal community to another, and the messages on the car guaranteed me safe passage.

The car is painted from top to bottom. What is on it?

Very different things. Sometimes just a hand, sometimes a totem animal, an icon or symbol that refers to the culture in question, sometimes a detailed drawing. Every Aboriginal community has its own style. In total, 200 Aboriginal artists have painted a part of the Land Rover. Many of the Aboriginals I met were the last full-blooded Aboriginals. Those people are no longer around, but their message on the car is still there. It lives on. The longer I worked on the project, the more media attention I received. It even got to a point where I was being filmed while I was making my report. Prominent figures such as politicians, ministers, and stars from the music and film world have put their signatures on the Land Rover. Even Nelson Mandela has immortalised his hand on the car. A great honour. The enormous interest in the project made it clear that I had struck an important chord. There is a lot of racism in Australia. Aboriginal cultures are often differently treated. The Message Stick Vehicle created a discourse and brought positive attention to Aboriginal cultures. The car is now a symbol of reconciliation and dialogue.

How long did you work on the project?

I planned to travel with the car for a year. It ended up being fifteen years in the end.

What happened to the car after the project was completed?

The car toured various museums in Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, the Northern Territory, Canberra, etc. to introduce it to a wide audience and eventually ended up in the National Museum of Australia. A few years ago I sold the car to the Mitchelton Gallery of Aboriginal Art in Victoria.

Wasn't it hard to part with it?

The car will always be mine because I made the trip and lived the story that goes with it. And I am the one who will carry with me all the memories of all the wonderful people I met over those many years for the rest of my life. Besides, my story is not over. What we are doing now, for example, this trip to K’gari Island, 250 km North of Brisbane, with a wrapped Porsche and a Jayco Crosstrak, is again a new chapter. I don’t know where it will take me yet, but who knows, maybe it will somehow become a Message Stick 2 Journey .

This time, however, you are not behind the wheel of a Land Rover, but a Porsche. Where does your love for Porsche come from?

Australians love big, tough cars. It is ingrained in our culture. But when I saw the Cayenne, I was immediately sold. I loved the streamlined design. The Cayenne is hugely underrated in

Australia. Most Australians have no idea how high-performing the Porsche 4x4 is. I have to admit that I am amazed at how beautifully it handles and how it can manage just about any terrain. It clearly demonstrated this when we drove along the soft sand along the coastline on K’gari and made our way through the rainforest. The more I drive the Cayenne, the more impressed I am by its performance. And while the Porsche gives its best, I am sitting in a luxurious and extremely comfortable vehicle. It doesn't get any better than that.

What does the future hold for you?

I can already look back on a richly filled career, but there are definitely still challenges ahead of me. I let life come to me and seize every opportunity to tell a new story. Because telling stories that touch people and teach them something is my mission. ♦

So…to be continued. Thanks for this great conversation.

“The Cayenne is underrated in Australia. Most Australians have no idea how highperforming Porsche’s 4x4 is.”
Michael Butler

Ngarrindjeri art as a form of connection. Emma Stenhouse

mma Stenhouse (45) is a contemporary Aboriginal artist and proud Ngarrindjeri woman. Her art is deeply rooted in her cultural heritage. She finds inspiration in nature, her love for her country and the stories of her community.

Text: Kathleen Van Bremdt - Photos: Sven Hoyaux, Wayne Quilliam, Sharra Mcnaughten

You are an Aboriginal woman, but you don’t have the appearance that we associate with it. That is true, and it can sometimes be confusing for people. But many Aboriginals today no longer have the typical external characteristics that are associated with the original Indigenous population. Many Aboriginals have a mixed heritage, which results in a wide range of external characteristics. That is why our Aboriginal identity is no longer determined by appearance, but by descent, culture and community ties. I know my bloodline and know who I am. Although there are people who do not appreciate the fact that I call myself Aboriginal.

Why not?

Australia has a complex relationship between First Nations and Europeans and a dark history when it comes to the treatment of its Indigenous Aboriginal population. After British colonisation in 1788, Aboriginal people were systematically oppressed, dispossessed and exposed to violence and discrimination. The government implemented policies that aimed to marginalise and even eradicate indigenous culture and people. During the time of ‘Stolen Generations’, Aboriginal children were forcibly removed from their families and placed with white families or in institutions. Only in recent decades has the government acknowledged the historical abuses and we have seen changes in acceptance, but inequalities in health, education and life expectancy will persist for a long time to come.

Emma Stenhouse. - Photo: Wayne Quilliam

Can you talk about Aboriginal tribes?

Yes, but in Australian Aboriginal language we use the word ‘mob’ to mean a tribe, clan, family or community. The word refers to a group of people who share a culture, language group or country.

You are a multidisciplinary artist. Which areas of art do you explore?

I embrace a wide range of art forms including painting, weaving and sewing, as well as printmaking, lino printing and textile design. All my work goes back to my storytelling as an Aboriginal woman and is a tribute to the women in my family who I have a very strong bond with.

Have you been involved in art your whole life?

I have always been creative, but I only really got into cultural art when I turned 40. That was a particular turning point for me. That was when I decided to really delve into my origins, my culture and my heritage. I saw the beauty of the art in my community and decided to focus on that, rather than politics.

“My work often deals with both the strength and vulnerability of women and our role in families and communities.”
Emma Stenhouse

What characterises your style?

My work uses both contemporary elements and traditional iconography. I have a love for the colours of nature. I grew up in Broken Hill, in the dry interior of New South Wales. When I first started painting, the rugged landscape and red earth of my former homeland were my inspiration, so I mainly used brown, red and ochre. Now that I have moved to Warrnambool, near Victoria and live closer to the coast, the blue colours of the ocean and the green of my surroundings are also included. There is also a certain softness in my work. A lot of Aboriginal art is characterised by dot painting and rough lines with a lot of black and white. I also experimented with that in the beginning but soon realised that I was attracted to soft colours. That adds a feminine touch. My focus is also not so much on the big picture, but on details. I have an eye for detail. My work often deals with both the strength and vulnerability of women and our role in families and communities.

How did Michael Butler come to you for the artwork for the Cayenne?

Michael will have told you about his Message Stick Vehicle project, in which he travelled all over Australia in an old Land Rover for ten years and had the car decorated by local Aboriginals wherever he went. The car is now in the Mitchelton Gallery of Aboriginal Art in Victoria. Coincidentally, there is a painting of mine hanging next to the car: The Lay of the Land . That's how Michael came to me and asked if I wanted to create a design for wrapping a Porsche Cayenne. I saw it as a new challenge. I am the first Aboriginal artist to paint a Porsche and a Jayco caravan. I am quite proud of that.

What is the meaning of the paintings on the Cayenne?

I took the painting from the gallery The Lay of the Land as a starting point and largely adopted the style. On the front end of the Porsche, the blue represents the ocean, further towards the middle the green reflects the rainforest and the red-brown on the back of the car refers to the desert. On the hood are five large concentric circles. This symbolises a ‘meeting place’. And such a meeting place is very important in Aboriginal culture. It is the place where knowledge is shared and where people come together to talk to each other and care for each other. I deliberately placed the symbol at the front of the car because for me it represents the starting point for a conversation with others. The flowing lines on the side of the Porsche represent the journey that the car and those on board make. And then there are also two turtles. I added them as a tribute to K’gari where the animals live.

In addition to being an artist, you are also a kindergarten teacher, and you often give workshops.

I love talking about my culture, about the beauty of our art, the respect for nature and the resilience of our people and I do that in many different ways. Young children are still very open to new information and still have that special sense of wonder. I not only give workshops in schools, but also in companies. One of the most important messages I want to convey to others is that when you care of Country, Country takes care of you.

You talk about ‘Country’. What exactly does that mean?

For Aboriginals, ‘Country’ means much more than a piece of land. We also write the word with a capital letter. We believe that everything is connected. ‘Country’ refers to a deeply spiritual, cultural and emotional concept that encompasses the connection between people, nature and ancestors. Each tribe or ‘mob’ has its own ‘Country’, with its own stories, songs and totems.

You design prints for cushions, bedding, bags, scarves, wallets, diaries, postcards, surfboards… you name it. But those things also need to be produced effectively. How do you find the right manufacturers?

I really feel like my ancestors are watching over me and have a plan for me, because usually the manufacturer comes to me with a request. What appeals to me about these collaborations is that Aboriginal art spontaneously ends up with people who normally wouldn’t be interested in indigenous art and who unknowingly make a connection with my culture. That is very beautiful. It is relatively new for Aboriginal artists to have so many possibilities. In the past, Aboriginal art was not taken seriously, but now Aboriginal artists are respected and recognised for their talent.

Do you live by a certain motto?

In my culture, everyone has a totem animal. My totem is a ‘willie wagtail bird’. It is a small, cheeky, black and white bird that is called the messenger. The white in its plumage stands for good news, the black for bad. Because the bird is my totem, I have an obligation to pass on news – whether it is good or bad. And not just news, but also knowledge. Nothing about our culture is written down. Aboriginal people were not allowed to learn to read and write by the white rulers, so all knowledge was passed on orally from generation to generation and that is still the case today. I learn so much from the Ngarrindjeri women in my community. We care for our elders and encourage them to share as much information as possible with us, the younger generation. I consider myself lucky that I am alive now, in a time when our communities are slowly gaining equality, and I really see it as my duty to pass on as much of our culture as possible to others. ♦

“I really feel like my ancestors are watching over me and have a plan for me.”
Emma Stenhouse
Emma Stenhouse. - Photo: Sharra Mcnaughten

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