Edition 01.2011 Official Magazine for Brioni
Summum Bonum. Excellence in Craftsmanship
Brioni The World Is Not Enough
Recommendation Jean-Claude Biver
Hideaway Andaz New York
Home Meissen Porzellan
Watches Hublot
Jewellery Robert Vogelsang
Technology McLaren
LifeTime Terme di Saturnia
Enjoyments Heritage Angus Beef
Brioni 65th 1945 – 2010
OpenTresor The Bespoken World
Brioni The Fall and Winter Collection 2011
Conclusion Fully Handcrafted
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www.OpEnTrESOr.cOm
noBLeman DeLuXe
THE BESPOKEN WORLD
Summum Bonum. Contents.
Excellence in Craftsmanship – around the world. 1 Brioni Craftsmanship Introduction: The World Is Not Enough 2 Recommendation Craftsmanship Ambassador: Jean-Claude Biver 3 Hideaway Craftsmanship from USA: Andaz 4 Home Craftsmanship from Germany: Meissen 5 Watches Craftsmanship from Switzerland: Hublot 6 Jewellery Craftsmanship from India: Robert Vogelsang 7 Technology Craftsmanship from England: McLaren
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8 LifeTime Craftsmanship from Italy: Terme di Saturnia
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9 Enjoyments Craftsmanship from Canada: Heritage Angus Beef
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10 Brioni 65th 1945 – 2010
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11 OpenTresor The Bespoken World
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12 Brioni The Fall and Winter Collection 2011
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13 Conclusion Craftsmanship Is Our Philosophy: From the Editor-in-Chief
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14 Impressum Craftsmanship for Summum Bonum: Contributors
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NOBLEMAN DeLUXE BRANDING & IDENTITY
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PREMIUM PUBLISHING CRAFTSMANSHIP IN PRINT
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OPENTRESOR BUY THE WORLD
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BUSINESS GENETIC PROFILE INVESTIGATION
A IntEGRAtED PRoDUctIon oF KünG IDEntIty GRoUP
wE lIkE TO ThAnk ESpEcIAlly ThE ADVErTISErS: ASton MARtIn | AUDI | BRIonI | BADRUtt’S PALAcE hotEL | BEntLEy | BUchERER | cARtIER | cREDIt SUISSE | cARL F. BUchERER | choPARD | DAVIDoFF | jULIUS BäR | SARASIn BAnK | MASERAtI | MEIStER | MEISSEn PoRZELLAn | MoEt hEnnESSy| PIRELLI | RAnGE RoVER | RoBERt VoGELSAnG | RoLLS RoycE | VontoBEL | VP BAnK | oPEntRÉSoR | ZKB
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Universe of Brioni. To be one of a kind. 65th Anniversary Sketches by Carlo Stanga Brioni ArchiveŠ
‌the world is not enough!
65th Anniversary Sketches by Carlo Stanga
“The boundary of your polo field is the horizon. The ball on the curve of your mallet is the Earth” – Firdusi, Persian poet (10th Century) Rome, Via Barberini, 1945: Brioni tailoring, destined to become a point of reference for high class international men’s fashion, takes its inspiration from the love of elegance of Nazareno Fonticoli, the tailor from Penne, and the enterprising spirit of Gaetano Savini – a business man from Umbria. The fashion house takes its name from the Istrian island frequented by the most exclusive European jetsetters in the first decades of the twentieth century, where the first Italian Polo Club was founded in 1925. Its location in the international capital of Rome, its high profile clientele, increasing interest from Americans and the post-war boom brought an immediate stimulus to the fashion house. Drawing upon the best craftsmanship in Abruzzo, Brioni emerged as a style model for the glamorous new continental look and between the 1950s and 1960s became the benchmark for the entertainment, institutional and business world in Italy and abroad.
The international expansion plan will be focused on emerging economies, with new boutiques in Shanghai, Peking, Cheng-Du, Dalian and Harbin in addition to cultural and business centers such as Düsseldorf, Germany, Mexico City in Central America, Saint Petersburg and Ierevan in Eastern Europe. Its 65th boutique in its 65th year: Brioni celebrated a new success story in Europe, in creative, elegant Barcelona just a stone’s throw from the Casa Batllò and Gaudì’s Pedrera on the splendid Paseo de Gracia where the most sophisticated design, shopping, entertainment and accommodation establishments meet in a magnificent setting. Brioni’s 300 square metres over three levels in the Hotel Mandarin are an excellent example of this: spectacular open spaces for the men’s and women’s collections have been set up that integrate the Brioni concept with the Hotel’s recent renovation, carried out by Carlos Ferrater and Patricia Urquiola. Düsseldorf is the brand new opening: it is the very first direct boutique in Germany, one of the most important and traditional markets for the company. The project was carried out by Studio Galante-Menichini, which has been involved in retail development from Europe to Asia during the past ten years and is harmonizing the Brioni identity with the local culture.
…quality is not enough! “Italian tailors are the best in the world” – Jeans Francois Revel, Pour l'Italie, Paris, 1958 Sartorial know-how, the quintessence of technical and style, encapsulates all aspects of Brioni professionalism. The Roman fashion house has taken creativity to the very extremes, with the most daring details ever attempted by the human hand. The ability to maintain this patrimony with steadfast certainty is achieved by the almost religious observance of technique that through the generations have become our tradition. The creativity involved in realising a Brioni garment is almost an art form: it takes between 18 and 22 hours to make one suit, 220 steps, equating to 440 hands working on one article. Each worker is dedicated to a single phase, with 80 workers for pressing alone. Stitches sewn by hand for each jacket vary between 5,000 and 7,000, depending on the model and the type of construction required. Today the “Made in Brioni” brand is in the hands of 400 master tailors and a total of 1,650 employees working in eight facilities manufacturing the Formalwear, Womenswear and Leisurewear lines. The complexity of workmanship has reached levels that surpass sartorial standards and reflect the research, optimisation and industrial evolution of a traditional art. The pressing phase is a clear example of this quest for perfection: every sewing phase is followed by ironing and followed in turn by precise resting phases that vary according to the type of fabric and
the garment’s geographic and climatic destination. All the inspection phases are extremely strict, starting with control of the original fabric. Every defect, irrelevant as far as the market is concerned, is essential to Brioni’s standard of perfection. The maintenance of dimensional stability allows necessary adjustments to be made in the cutting phase. Each department head checks all the jacket’s essential points. There are then numerous intermediate inspections each time the article is pressed. The garment is then allowed to rest for several hours in order to evaluate its reaction and implement any small modifications. For each fabric the type of lining is selected from among 50 available varieties, which also depends on the climate conditions of the final destination that affect the way the fabric will react. Only this meticulous attention to all production phases can guarantee the unrivalled quality that has always been a source of pride for those who create and those who wear Brioni.
Brioni Archive©
…art is not enough! “when I spend a lot on a suit, I am supporting the art form of high-end tailoring” - Gay Talese Rituality and Art. “Sartorial wisdom” is the quintessential blend of technique and research, of experience and creative flair. The ability to preserve such a heritage involves an almost religious repetition of the gestures, a tradition that is passed on generation after generation, acquiring almost historical connotations. Gestures, techniques, old time rituals renewed every day with results approaching art. This is part of our philosophy during 65 years of history. In the 1980s, Brioni felt the need to introduce new generations to the art of tailoring. It was 1985 when the “Scuola Superiore di Sartoria” was opened with two Master tailors, Gabriele Lepore and Luciano Morelli. For twenty-five years, under the auspices of the Ministry of Public Education, the school has been passing on a deeply rooted, rare, and thus very precious tradition. As in a renaissance workshop, the students follow the teachings of their teachers, training to prolong their craftsmanship into time. Thus, we continue to develop Master tailors, who are able to make masterpieces.
Another important chapter of the company’s heritage and cultural approach is to be part of the “Archivi della moda del’ 900” project: The Maison Brioni archives have been recognised by the Ministry of Culture as being of particularly important historical interest. Recognition from the ministry came after the archive superintendent for Lazio viewed and evaluated the archives at the Brioni headquarters in Rome, which include, among other things, more than 700 suits made since the fifties, hundreds of sketches, designs and drafts, 10,000 photographs from the sixties onwards illustrating Brioni’s extraordinary output and dozens of patents. In the same year Brioni collected tailoring, art and design during the last Salone del Mobile in Milan hosting the “Wallpaper* Handmade…in Italy” installation, in collaboration with the magazine Wallpaper*, a display dedicated to the extraordinary union of handmade art and design. Wallpaper* has commissioned important artists, designers and masters to create unique pieces, accessories, gastronomic products and items related to the world of fashion, which will all be on show in the splendid setting of Palazzo Brioni, in Via Gesù 2/A in Milan. Brioni Archive©
65th Anniversary Sketches by Carlo Stanga
…islands are not enough! “There are few places in the world where you could fool yourself into thinking you’re in an F. Scott Fitzgerald book, but the Brioni islands will bring out your inner playboy.” - Esquire Although these islands are geographically located in the heart of Europe, they represent what is perhaps its last largely undiscovered paradise. It is this quality that gives peace and tranquillity to those who choose to holiday here. The Romans came up with the idea and developed it here, as well as in many Mediterranean areas, building villas that even today reflect an aesthetic and a sense of living well that still inspire us. The journey thus becomes, over time, a route to places in the past, including its more recent history. Brioni was rediscovered by an Austrian tycoon at the end of the 19th century. It became a favourite of the European aristocracy and the international elite during the first half of the 20th century -first under the Austro-Hungarian Empire and then under the Kingdom of Italy. Under the Tito regime it was off limits except to his guests until a couple of decades ago. The promoter of the modernday Brioni Islands was Paul Kupelwieser, who, at the end of the 19th century, decided to invest all his financial, human and intellectual capital in these shores, making a bold life-changing decision at a time when tourism was still in its infancy along the Côte d’Azur
and in the Swiss mountains, and heavy industry, his original source of income, was in full swing. He managed to make them all fall in love – royal families, hard-working businessmen, intellectuals, scientists, artists and beautiful women: the Hapsburgs, Rothschild, James Joyce and Guglielmo Marconi are the names most often mentioned even today in the guidebooks. This is where horses wintered, sea- planes landed and ships weighed anchor. And, when you pass those same places and think of their past and present value, your voyage becomes even more fascinating. Sport as golf is very popular here – a legacy the British exported to pass the time in the most elegant places in the world. They also brought what has always been the most exclusive game of all – polo. A member of the house of Savoy, Duke Aimone, fell in love with the game and founded the first polo club in Italy here in 1925. Like the old polo grounds, the golf course is not technically conventional. The rough is the woods or the sea itself! A 1937 poster from the Italian National Tourism Agency sums it up perfectly: in the foreground, there is a man playing polo; behind him a woman playing golf; then there is a multicoloured landscape, the tiny harbour and finally the hotels. In 1945, when the founders chose a name for their new venture, they chose the name “Brioni” because they were inspired by this poster, that image and that background. Certainly at the time the islands were synonymous with living well, and were known and frequented by the individuals the Brioni Tailoring Company wanted to address with their Italian style and elegance.
…awards are not enough! “I wanted a company, which was capable of tailoring in the Savile Row manner” - Lindy Hemming, costume designer, who has kept 007 looking sharp in five films from Goldeneye to Casino Royale
1958, 1959 - Esquire Award From 1959 to 1966 - Caswell Massey Award 1979 - Alta Moda Award
Brioni has vastly expanded its horizons and established the very boundaries of men's fashion, experimenting with every shape, colour and accessory that human invention—always guided by good taste—has produced. It has pushed sartorial technique to the limits, working each fabric, leather or yarn with masterful skill, and turning out the boldest finishes that the human hand has ever confronted.
1981, 1990 – The Best Award 1988 – Pitti Award 1995 – Brioni for James Bond 2007 - most prestigious men’s fashion luxury brand in America by an independent study by the Luxury Institute of New York 2007, 2008 – Winner of Cartier Polo World Cup on Snow 2010 – Flair de Parfume Award
65th Anniversary Sketches by Carlo Stanga
…lifestyle is not enough! “…if you are a Russian squillionarie, an American CEO, a Roman prince or James Bond you will have some Brioni garments in your wardrobe” - Nick Foulkes Unique lifestyle is discovering rarities, discerning quality, combining details, creating new styles, appreciating tradition: the facets of an inimitable life. Take for instance the globe-trotter American customer, who asks of Brioni the best way of dressing for travel with functionality and elegance. His needs and expectations created the Travel jacket, an authentic icon of Brioni: the original version of 1968 has 16 pockets for different issues (flight ticket, cigar, pen, watch, wallet, passport etc.). In 2006 Brioni re-invented the travel jacket in new materials and new accessories: i-pod-nano pocket was one of it. The customer and the time make the lifestyle, especially in the leisure, a time to enjoy with the same elegance to the business time.
Brioni Archive©
Must have iconic leisure item
65th Anniversary Sketches by Carlo Stanga
…exclusivity/femininity is not enough! “…she would be seated in that chair - a little out of breath at first, as of yore - would have removed her veil be speaking” – Gabriele d’Annunzio, The Child of Pleasure Brioni’s first atelier was founded in Rome in 1945, dressing women like Anna Magnani, Greta Garbo and Elizabeth Taylor; since then the specialist knowledge and experience that the company has accumulated has evolved and is reflected today in the prêt-à-porter collections that have been taking to the catwalks of Milan for over a decade. Ranging from the time-honoured “tailleur”, which means “suit” in Italian but is French for the person who cuts suits, to the most daring designs that appear on the catwalk during Milan Fashion Week, the Brioni woman is the embodiment of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary style.
The result of Brioni’s powerful alchemy of technical know-how and creative strength is unparalleled workmanship in terms of prestige, form and sartorial skill, providing women with an image that is never transitory, but always exclusive and feminine. This uniqueness can be seen in Brioni’s garments, but is best appreciated by wearing them. Its complex women’s collection comes to life thanks not only to the maison’s production capabilities but also to a style office coordinated by the Neapolitan Alessandro Dell’Acqua, who knows just how to interpret the modernity and exclusiveness of the female world.
…accessories are not enough! “…no-one can question how important it is for people living in cities or in large societies, not in hermit-like isolation, to be elegantly dressed and to have good manners: without these, all other qualities are but ‘ornaments’” – Giovanni Della Casa, Galateo, I Della Casa’s words contain a great deal of truth. Good quality is supported by a choice of outfits with fine details. Over the centuries it were precisely these that distinguished the elegant from the well-dressed man. The true tailor, the silent adviser to past and future generations of gentlemen, guided the client not only to the choice of the material and cut of the suit, but also to the decision on colour combinations, trimmings, accessories, under garments, cufflinks, buttons, ties, shoes, hats, shirts, gloves, belts, leather holders, bags, socks, knitwear and outerwear… a huge and fantastic world. Brioni deliberately revived this tradition and thanks to a deep relationship among tailors, customers and the style department it is improving season by season, collection by collection, item by item. To create a unique wardrobe. Limited edition fragrance included. Brioni Archive©
Exploring Brioni Accessories.
Summum Bonum. Recommendation.
Abstract: For Biver, sixty-something, talking for 10 minutes about the „visible invisibility“ during a dinner is no problem at all. Neither is building a complex thought construct at a press conference that was to present him as the new boss of Hublot, held in the mundane Geneva Marina under the motto “Fusion”. At the occasion, he managed to bridge earth to trees to the traditionally manufactured Hublot wristbands from natural rubber. However, Jean-Claude Biver is by no means a gasbag. To the contrary, it is actually nice to listen to his rhetorical escapades, especially since his talks are usually peppered with a good portion of humour. Biver is a quality thinker and perfectionist and he loves hand-made articles of superior quality. He says himself that only true craftsmanship results in sustainable success!
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Summum Bonum.Recommendation.
I love excellence in Craftsmanship, it’s our success. Text: Chronos by Hublot Pictures: PD.H. Carlo Crocco, the founder of the brand, who comes from a family of watchmakers in Milan was a real pioneer in 1980, when he founded his company MDM “Montre des Montres” (watch of watches). For the first time worldwide, natural rubber was used, and after more than three years of research and development, a water-resistant, skin-friendly and with its included steel threads tear-proof wristband for watches was made. The bully-eye design secured MDM a place among the classics of modern watches in no time, and “Hublot” quickly became a brand name, too. However, it was quite predictable that a watch brand that was so fixated on a certain design for their models would eventually reach a dead-end from the product-policy point of view. Hublot found itself in this unfortunate situation around turn of the century. Back then, Carlo Crocco was looking for an executive who could take over the business at Hublot’s. Jean-Claude Biver was that choice, a very successful watch manager and marketing specialist with lots of experience. Biver was looking for new challenges. He acquired 20% of Hublot and became managing director in 2004. This was not the first time that the entrepreneur, who was born in Luxembourg but had been living in Switzerland for decades re-animated a brand that was almost forgotten or on its path into insignificance. Carlos Crocco gave free reign to the industrious Biver, resulting in a visibly changed model policy, but also in special activities in the area sponsoring, for example in sailing. Never short of new ideas, Biver put the “Fusion Concept” in the focus of all brand communication. Not only did he go back to the tried and tested tradition of the company, the use of different materials. He also focused on a synthesis between the traditional art of watch making and its filigree pieces of arts and the modern processing methods of the 21st century. When developing new watches, the Hublot employees under Biver are largely free. They adhere to the supporting columns of the known design. However, they are either reduced in their dominating characteristics or the traditional characteristics are interpreted in a new way. The modification of the model structure can also be seen in the details. The screws that connect the edge of the glass with the casing now interpret the Hublot “H”, which is why special tools must be used. In place of the original twelve screws that also marked the hours there are now six screws, in some of the models holding a glass with diamonds. Marked, partly brightly coloured chronograph buttons give the watch a new, sportive-technical look.
Conclusion: The brand that had almost been forgotten just a few years ago is now one of the most profitable enterprises of the Swiss watch industry. In 2008, Hublot was sold to the luxury group LVMH, who already owns brands such as Zenith and TAG Heuer. Jean-Claude Biver, who once again received a nice sum for his 20% share, today is “only” managing director. “Never change a winning team” he says. And laughs.
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Summum Bonum. Hideaway.
Abstract: The Andaz Wall Street situated at the corner Wall Street/Water Street and is a dynamic landmark in the Lower Manhattan landscape; the first hotel that is really located in the financial district of New York City. It is only minutes away from the New York Stock Exchange and the Fortune 500 companies and South Street Seaport, Battery Park and the popular shops and monuments of the city. Every single one of the 253 guest rooms in loft style has modern furniture and offers subtle comfort to its guests. The big windows, measuring over 2 m and the wooden floor underline the extensive space of the rooms. For lunch, guests like to dine in the hotel restaurant, where dishes are inspired by the fruits of the Hudson Valley and where all products come fresh from the farm to the table. The “Bar 7even 5ive� invites to relax with a professionally mixed cocktail and Ales from the region.
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Summum Bonum.Hideaway.
What is your Andaz? Text: Jochen Schubert Pictures: CH.K.
Fifth Avenue in Manhattan traditionally stands for fashion and shopping sprees. This is also mirrored in the history of the newly opened Andaz Fifth Avenue: the hotel, formerly one of the most famous department stores of the city and then headquarters for the fashion designer Tommy Hilfinger, is situated at New York’s most popular shopping mile at the 42nd Street, opposite of the New York Public Library. Guests can see famous landmarks, such as the Empire State Building from the 184 rooms, including 36 suites. Time Square and Grand Central Station are only a few walking minutes away. With this newly opened hotel, Hyatt adds the fifth house to its collection of young and designoriented houses of the Andaz brand worldwide, and the second hotel in New York. In January 2010 the Andaz Wall Street was opened. The renowned designer Toni Chi designed the hotel in the style of a New Yorker loft apartment. The playful contrasts make guests feel the typical flair of downtown New York. The industrial past of the quarter is mirrored in visible air pipes, combined with sculptures by Nick Hornby and other contemporary artwork. The rooms feature wardrobes from glass and sparkling white lacquer surfaces as an effective counterpoint to leather, wood and basalt. The room size of 30 square metres and 3.65 m high ceilings are unique in New York. The high window fronts face towards an idyllic garden or busy Manhattan. However, soundproof glass and tightly closed shutters ensure a quiet night in the heart of the busy city.
Conclusion: The Andat Wall Street has you enter a calm and modern atmosphere, in the centre of the busy financial district of New York. The main characteristic of the Andaz Wall Street is the individual claim of each guest: What is your Andaz or, what is your style? This is why the uncomplicated but very attentive service is especially remarkable and characteristic for the culture.
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Summum Bonum. Hideaway.
Transparency und pure elegance of the rooms is continued in the bathrooms with walls from Travertin stone and glass sinks. Care products from C.O. Bigelow, America’s oldest pharmacy and New Yorker cult cosmetic brand are featured. The porcelain bidets are a special detail, taking the quick pace of the city into account and enabling a relaxing footbath after roaming the city or enjoying a shopping tour. The 36 suites offer lots of space. They can be booked from fall 2010 onwards. Special detail is the “Andaz XL Terrace Suite” with its 165 square metres on the green roof terrace with a spectacular view over the Hudson and the East River. The “Splash Suite” offers a special experience: When taking a bath in the bath tub, the view to the Empire State Building and the Public Library makes for extra relaxing moments. Hotel guests can experience the taste of New York in the restaurant and the bar of the Andaz Fifth Avenue. Dishes are based on fresh seasonal products from the region and specialities of famous food producers and local gourmet institutions such as “Katz’s Delicatessen”. Just like in a New York Deli you can have sandwiches and bakery products for take-out. one floor below the restaurant you find the hotel bar in work floor style. An important design element is the brick wall from the year 1790. Behind the counter made from dark walnut wood, the staff mixes cocktails and serves selected wines and spirits. In the show kitchen, the chefs prepare international specialities before the eyes of the guests. Big tables and dishes that can be shared with the neighbouring table make you feel as if you were visiting good friends. There is also room for romantic dinners or business meals. In the second floor of the Andaz Fifth Avenue the “Apartment 2E” offers 600 square metres for private and official functions. The floor space equals that of a spacious New Yorker apartment. Heart of the space is an open kitchen and five “studios” with capacity for 16 to 100 people, a bar and a green roof terrace. Hosts may chose to use individual “studios” or the entire apartment for their functions. Please request information from your OpenTresor-Ambassador +41 044 208 31 55 or visit www.opentresor.com
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Anyone who appreciates a clear hotel concept will enjoy the Andaz. The element water – derived from Water Street – are included in the interior design. There are other elements such as a banknote, referring to Wall Street. The effect of forms, colours and materials is extremely stylish, professional and well balanced and correspond to the excellent service.
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Summum Bonum. Home.
Back to the future: from white gold to myth. Text: CH.K., interview with Dr. Christian Kurtzke Pictures: CH.K.
At the beginning of the 13th century porcelain was imported to the European royal courts from China at inflated prices. In the 18th century, the secret of how to manufacture porcelain was being discovered in Meissen. Johann Friedrich Böttger, Ehrenfried Walther von Tschirnhaus, Gottfried Pabst von Ohain of Freiberg and other experts in mining and the iron and steel industry participated in the quest. August the Strong was the patron, Prince Elector of Saxony and King of Poland. The work was successful. 1708 the first white porcelain was manufactured in Europe under the guidance of Johann Friedrich Böttger. Europe’s first porcelain was born. The success story of Meissener Porcelain started at the manufacturing plant at the Meissener Albrechtsburg. For centuries and over generations the white pottery with its crossed blue swords has excited friends and aficionados of porcelain and carries artistic demands and innovative spirit from Saxon into the whole world. Everybody knows „Meissener Porzellan”. It is manifested in 300 years of masterly craftsmanship, aesthetics, individuality, sensuality and value. “For the president of the supervisory board, Dr. Christian Kurtzke, the communication of the positioning is decisive for future success. Most people know Meissener from our tableware and culture. However, in fact we started with exquisite jewellery and valuable objects, as an interior designer, so to speak, when August the Strong commissioned some pieces 300 years ago” explains Dr. Kurtzke his strategy. “These are the roots of our company history, which we want to focus on in our year of anniversary, and which will also have the biggest potential for the future”. Fine Living & Home Art In the year 1905, Meissen created the biggest ceramic wall picture worldwide, the famous “Fürstenzug in Dresden”, made of 25,000 elements. Now the manufacturer presents its new program of exclusive wall ornaments and interior design. High-quality tiles from porcelain and pictures are relatively unknown at this stage. However, architects have already discovered this new way of decorating for themselves; whether bathroom, kitchen or outside areas – especially luxury villas are decorated with Meissen porcelain. Conclusion: The company spirit of Meissen is the uncompromising will to produce only the best quality. This will is needed to find the way back into the future, by successfully leading the brand through clear communication and positioning.
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Abstract: The success story of “Meissener Porzellan� started at the manufacturing plant at the Meissener Albrechtsburg. For centuries and over generations the white pottery with its crossed blue swords has excited friends and aficionados of porcelain and carries artistic demands and innovative spirit from Saxony into the whole world. Everybody knows Meissener Porzellan. It is manifested in 300 years of masterly craftsmanship, aesthetics, individuality, sensuality and value. It is important for future success, however, to go back to the roots. Most people know Meissener from our tableware and culture. In fact, however, we started with exquisite jewellery and highquality interior design. Thus, it comes as no surprise that the two original roots of our long company history will play an important role in the future as well.
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1 The crossed swords are the logo of the Meissen Manufacturer, they stand for tradition and craftsmanship. Now it is well on its path to become a luxury brand.
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3 2 Made by hand, but still affordable.
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Summum Bonum. Home.
Exclusive style worlds for individual well-being. Marked objects, high-quality accessories. Individual style and living environments for bathroom, kitchen and living rooms – by the historic European manufacturer. Meissen products have been manufactured with an eye for detail for about 300 years. They enrich the enjoyment of life of customers through their unique, high-quality aesthetics and excellent craftsmanship. From this viewpoint, we could establish a number of classics worldwide. Individual style mixes Meissen does not only force one living environment, but creates for a number of different styles. For Meissen, combining products with a different zeitgeist is not a contradiction, but an expression of character, individuality and personal freedom.
Fine Jewellery & Accessories As early as 300 years ago, the court goldsmith Irminger made Meissen jewellery from Jaspis porcelain, gold and gemstones. With admirable talent and incredible craftsmanship the Meissen manufacturers created splendid and unique pieces of jewellery. Nature in its luxuriant sensuality was the role model for the gracious paintings and form variety. Jewellery made from porcelain is not really new. However, a luxury collection is now planned, for which gold will be the sole material. On the jewellery: modern, but also traditional decors. Meissen is targeting new markets with its jewellery. Thus the myth Meissen will be revitalized and remains one of the world’s leading luxury brands. Fine Dining Everybody knows this business segment: stylish table culture for 8 experts and aficionados. For 300 years. From the traditional white swan service and wave decors to hand-painted onion pattern and dragon decors, including new arrangements for sushi, pasta and espresso. Meissen is synonymous with stylish table culture, for experts and aficionados. High-quality Art in Porcelain Since Kaendler, Meissen is the worldwide leader in the art of porcelain. The secret of 300 years of success: highest quality. Thus Meissen uses its own materials, from their own mines. Meissen also exclusively makes use of their own 10,000 colours, achieving a high degree of brilliance. And on top of that, Meissen only trusts in its own in-house training when it comes to craftsmanship. Only the best of the best of the craft design in in the Fine Arts segment. Please request information from your OpenTresor-Ambassador +41 044 208 31 55 or visit www.opentresor.com
Summum Bonum. Jewellery.
Symbiosis of senses and materials, thanks to craftsmanship Text: Steven Himmel Pictures: CH.K. In the life of real artists – and Robert Vogelsang is certainly one of those – origin, country, talent and training usually send out signals that eventually, there will be an interplay between experiences and creative juices. For Robert Vogelsang, of German-American origin and now resident of Switzerland, the source of his inspiration is in India, the country of fairytales, powerful colours, mysterious emeralds and legendary maharajas. This is where he was born and spent the first 14 years of his life, a continent, where the art of goldsmiths is cherished by creative talents in a charming, bizarre or symbolic way. The creative act of Robert Vogelsang’s jewellery combines creativity, the rich culture of the Indian continent, harmony and a high sense of colours. But still, with the European sense for reduction he always returns to simple lines, even if the Indian tradition can be seen in many details and ornaments. This blend of European, American and Indian culture makes the artist a multi-cultural thinking, feeling and creative being. For a log time, the Schlüsselgasse 4 in Zurich has been the place where Robert Vogelsang works and presents his exquisite and stylish customers. It is a quiet, small road from where you can still hear the bells of St. Peter’s Church – away from the busy Limmatquais and the Bahnhofstrasse. It includes a small studio facing the Storchengasse: wooden workbenches and a number of tools, some of which have been made by the artist himself to be able to carry out certain works. The view onto the Schlüsselgasse goes through a window, where few but precious objects are displayed and invite the onlooker to take a closer look. They display masterly handiwork, where fine gemstones have been put together in fascinating forms and then fitted into beautiful pieces of precious metals. A creative, sensitive and precise work process that sometimes takes months to complete.
Abstract: Robert Vogelsang’s source of his inspiration is in India, the country of fairytales, powerful colours, mysterious emeralds and legendary maharajas. This is where he was born and spent the first 14 years of his life, a continent, where the art of goldsmiths is cherished by creative talents in a charming, bizarre or symbolic way. The creative act of Robert Vogelsang’s jewellery combines creativity, the rich culture of the Indian continent, harmony and a high sense of colours. But still, with the European sense for reduction he always returns to simple lines, even if the Indian tradition can be seen in many details and ornaments. His store itself is an impression of this philosophy and you can see the influence everywhere.
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Conclusion: Robert Vogelsang is a blend of European, American and Indian culture. This makes the artist a multi-cultural thinking, feeling and creative being. This approach is mirrored in all his pieces.
Summum Bonum. Jewellery.
In addition to the jewellery, objects are a special challenge for the creative goldsmith and gemmologist. A good example is the 71.6 mm heart from fine gold, with a pearl crown and a crucifix on a diamond ring. A total of 119 diamonds grace the heart of the lovebirds. It can be folded out like wings and then displays two birds from platinum on a small ruby heart. This unique piece of art can be presented on a chain as jewellery or on a rack. In any case it is a gem and must be one of the most fascinating objects that came to life in the Schlüsselgasse. Such creations are the result of some inner drive. But Vogelsang’s art also includes objects from gemstones that he makes upon request of famous jewellers worldwide. One time it was a flower bouquet from 114 flowers made of aquamarine, tourmaline, amethyst, rose quartz and mountain crystal and fitted with 415 diamonds. The stalks were made of a few pounds of gold, imbedded in a bowl of mountain crystal. The diamond heart and the flower bouquet are examples for mystical creations and mirror the symbiosis of a deep inner understanding for symbols and myths, paired with the high art of a goldsmith. Vogelsang shows depth, beauty and immortality. If you think the Schlüsselgasse 4 is only attractive for people, who are willing to spend a small fortune for such unique treasures, you are wrong. Many people come to look for something extraordinary for a reasonable price, be it an object, jewellery or marriage or partner bands that were made with special materials according to your specifications. Vogelsang’s artistic background is impressive: after completing university in Boston, USA in German, with the main subject of translation of poems (for example he studied the translations of the puppet theatre of Heinrich von Kleist), he went to the “Museum School of Fine Arts” in Boston for two years, to become a goldsmith. In Idar-Oberstein, the centre of gemstones in Germany, he trained as a traditional goldsmith and finished his studies an a gemmologist and diamond specialist. After working in the studios of goldsmiths in Zurich for three years, Robert Vogelsang opened his own studio in 1989, where he started working for renowned international customers and jewellers. Since 1991 Robert Vogelsang and his wife Jeannette have their own gallery with studio, which has become famous among Zurich locals and customers all over the world when looking for something extraordinary. Please request information from your OpenTresor-Ambassador +41 044 208 31 55 or visit www.opentresor.com
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1 Jewellery and pieces of art from gold, platinum, silver and selected gemstones are combined aesthetically, meeting the demands for high-quality handiwork.
Despite a few exceptions all pieces that are sold in the store have been created and made by Robert Vogelsang in his own studio. Customer requests, changes and fittings for gemstones brought in by the customers will also be worked with the same care and according to customer specifications.
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Summum Bonum. Technology.
Super athlete thanks to meticulously planned production. Text: José M. Oliver Pictures: CH.K.
McLaren has once again presented a great sports car The McLaren MP4-12C is to follow the footsteps of the legendary McLaren F1. The two F1 world champions Jenson Button and Lewis Hamilton have already tested the new super athlete worth 200,000 Euro. McLaren MP4-12C: Super single-handed athlete In 2009, McLaren presents the MP4-12C in the super sports car segment. After an intermezzo with different Mercedes resulting in the Mercedes SLR-McLaren, the British are now back on their own. Just as the McLaren F1, the McLaren MP4-12C also benefits from the Formula 1 experience of the car manufacturer. The 80 kg carbon-fibre coque with safety cab for the driver is the spine of the MP4-12C. It combines extraordinary stability, low weight and high safety. Crash elements from aluminium in the front and back supplement the carbonfibre cell. But not only in terms of the chassis does McLaren rely on its own development; all construction parts were thought up by the car manufacturer, including the switches and control elements in the cockpit. McLaren MP4-12C: The internally developed Biturbo-V8 achieves a performance of 600 PS. For the fist time the engine – the heart of the McLaren MP4-12C – has also been manufactured by McLaren. The car manufacturer developed a 3.8 litre V8-engine with 90degree cylinder angle, which, thanks to its Biturbo charger and the variable valve control, achieves a performance of about 600 PS and 600 Nm torque, being highly efficient at the same time. A dry-sump lubrication ensures proper oil supply under extreme stress. Despite its maximum torque of 8,500/min, a good 80% of the torque supposedly work at 2,000/min. McLaren claims the lowest consumption and CO2 emission in its segment. However, the Brits have not made any statements regarding the performance or fuel consumption yet. The V8-centre engine transfers its power through an automated seven-gear double-gearbox with different driving programs on the rear axle. The latter, just like the front axle, is lead by an active, adaptive suspension system, substituting the conventional stabilizers at the same time. Gears are shifted with a wheel paddle. The panels of the body made of ultra thin carbon fibre laminate, the compact construction, a light-weight brake system with a high percentage of aluminium (as an option, you may have a ceramic brake), the installation of the radiator in the rear end and ultra-light rims also contribute to the low weight of the McLaren MP4-12C. The rims measure 10 inches on the front axle and 20 inches on the rear axle. Active body elements optimize aerodynamics, an air brake ensures additional lag.
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Conclusion: The McLaren MP4-12C with its 600 PS relies on a combination of extreme performance of he absolute premium class. With that, it will be successful in the highly competitive market of the super athletes.
Abstract: Just as the McLaren F1, the McLaren MP4-12C also benefits from the Formula 1 experience of the car manufacturer. The 80 kg carbon-fibre coque with safety cab for the driver is the spine of the MP4-12C. It combines extraordinary stability, low weight and high safety. Crash elements from aluminium in the front and back supplement the carbon-fibre cell. But not only in terms of the chassis does McLaren rely on its own development; all construction parts were thought up by the car manufacturer, including the switches and control elements in the cockpit.
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Summum Bonum. Technology.
The form of the MP4-12C is exclusively made for perfect propulsion A lot of Formula 1 know-how has also influenced the formal design of the MP4-12C. With the positioning of the radiator in the rear, the nose could be kept extremely flat, however, there is sufficient room for the trunk. The form of the MP4 including the absolutely flat undercarriage are made for optimized propulsion and dynamics. The MP4 face is characterized by Bixenon headlights with LED day light, big air intake and the doors opening upwards to the front. The rear, on the other hand, is dominated by a big diffuser, high exhaust pipes and LED tail lamps hidden behind the cross elements. From aerial perspective you see the engine space through the transparent engine cover.
Weight reduction has become an obsession at McLaren. Following this strategy, the racing stall McLaren has achieved more success than any other of the competition. According to the newest development, the weight of the carbon-mono cell could be further reduced to 80 kg, while the high level of engineering achieved a 1,300 kg – which is without competition.
Extensive extras on board The MP4-12C is equipped with ABS, ESP, traction control, an electronic brake-power distributor, hill-hold function and an assistance system derived from Formula 1, called brake steer. Inside, it has two electrically adjustable seats and control units in the doors and the centre console. A touch screen shows the most important elements of the navigation and high-end sound system. Air-conditioning, airbags, parking sensors and a number of storage compartments between, under and behind the seats. McLaren is to compete with the Porsche Turbo and Co. In order to be successful in the competitive market of the super athletes, McLaren is counting on a combination of driving performance of the absolute premium class (Bugatti, Pagani, Koenigsegg) with a sales price of 200,000 € in Germany. This means the McLaren MP4-12C will compete with the Ferrari 457 Italia, the Porsche Turbo, the Lamborghini Gallardo, the Aston Martin DB9 or the Bentley Continental GT. However, the Brits are planning on producing some 1,000 models per year, starting 2011, which will then be distributed via a small and exclusive dealer network comprising 35 members worldwide. One quarter will go into the USA, one quarter will remain on the British island. In Germany the sport car will be available in the Munich region, Hamburg, Frankfurt and Cologne/Düsseldorf. In Switzerland McLaren is available through the Schmohl AG in Zurich. Please request information from your OpenTresor-Ambassador +41 044 208 31 55 or visit www.opentresor.com
In 2010 McLaren has started the construction of a new production plant, the McLaren Production Centre. The plant is located right next to the McLaren Technology Centre, headquarters of the McLaren Group and the Vodafone-McLaren Mercedes Formula 1 team.
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Summum Bonum. Lifetime.
Our health and nature are our most valuable resources. Text: Alexandra Obermaier Pictures: CH.K. The history of the hot waters Myth has it that the God Saturn once was so angry with mankind, who were in constant war with each other, that he threw lightning on earth. It let warm and sulphur-saturated water rise from the volcano it hit, and humankind emerged wiser and happier from the steam. This supposedly happened in the heart of Tuscany in Saturnia in the Maremma region, where 800 l of water per second still come from the earth with a temperature of 37 degree Celsius. According to legend, Saturnia is the oldest city on Italian territory. However, it is certain that the locality already existed at the time of the Etruscans, although it was called Aurinia back then and was renamed Saturnia later by the Romans. The traces of the past can be seen on the inside of the wall, which was built from the 4th to 3rd century before Christ: the Porta Romana (the Roman City Gate) and the historic thermal waters near the parish church, which was built by the Romans. During the Middle Ages, the Maremma suffered from numerous attacks from Orvieto and Siena. Although the feudal masters built defence walls all over the region, the Maremma was conquered eventually. For centuries the defence systems in the marshland fell into disrepair, and malaria spread again. In 1828, Duke Leopoldo II commissioned new walls to be built. Today the Maremma in Tuscany is a beautiful region, dotted with Etruscan and Roman ruins and castles from the Middle Age. Spa & Wellness As in old times, the guest is in the centre of attention in the wellness hotel Terme di Saturnia Spa Resort. The objective is to find the inner balance again, which is a result of complete harmony between body, spirit and soul. The philosophy is holistic and there are four wellness areas complementing each other: hydrotherapy, beauty treatments, stress management and fitness. Roman thermal waters as a role model The ritual of the Roman thermal waters starts with a steam bath and is then continued with a shower. Depending on the mood of the respective guest this can be a soft shower from above in orange light to revitalize or a warm dripping mist with blue light to relax. After the shower, the body is ready for a steam bath or the bio sauna to regenerate body and spirit.
Conclusion: The wellness hotel Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort is located in the Maremma region in Tuscany, below the hills where the city of Saturnia is situated. If you spend just one day in the Terme di Saturnia you know that this is a very special place, where the natural components of the thermal water regenerate the body and revitalize the spirit.
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Abstract: The Maremma region in the Tuscany is a place that could not be any more beautiful dotted with Etruscan and Roman ruins and castles from the Middle Age. Driving the new Maserati GranCabrio makes the trip even more interesting and eventful. Unforgettable is the myth around the Terme di Saturnia, which says that the God Saturn was so angry with humankind that he sent lighting to earth. This is why warm and sulphuric water comes out of the volcano crater until today. This is today the heart of the Terme die Saturnia; 800 litres of water per second with a temperature of 37ยบ C. What can be more relaxing than taking a bath in the volcano or playing golf in the beautiful landscape?
Summum Bonum. Lifetime.
3 1 There hotel Terme di Saturnia is located in the Maremma, an impressing corner in the heart of Tuscany, where the gentle slopes make the horizon and where every stone, every leaf, and every tree can look back upon three thousand years of history. A network of pathways leads through the remote landscape of the Tuscan Maremma to the natural thermal cascades and their white steam; impressive Etruscan necropolis, Roman villas and mysterious castles from the Middle Age. The GranCabrio stands for finest quality. It is a Maserati in its purest form; from the recognizable style of Pininfarina to the craftsmanship in every detail, from the perfect driving experience to perfect performance – driven by a V8-engine with 4.7 litres and 440 PS and a six-gear automated gearshift by ZF. The new GranCabrio embodies the Maserati brand in its purest form: the elegant design by Pininfarina is part of it, as is the spacious interior displaying first-quality craftsmanship in every detail, the perfect driving experience and the performance. The Maserati GranCabrio appeals to all senses, combining open driving experience with balanced comfort and superior performance. It is a dream car for people who like the understatement, but at the same time enjoy open driving. 1 Access way to the Terme di Saturnia 2 Mystical Maremma, in the South of Tuscany.
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In this Spa Hotel the concept of well-being is lived in continuous evolution and has won a number of awards in Italy and Europe. A real sense of culture, which can meet the demands of the guests and helps them find their inner balance. All Spa treatments such as massages, beauty treatments, thermal treatments and fitness will be combined in a professional way. The Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort is a locality in the Italian Tuscany and offers 54 treatment rooms, all under the sign of multi-sensory enjoyment. Guests can find themselves and listen to their inner voice. Regenerating treatments, but also professional and tailor-made medical advice helps to improve quality of life. The park with various basins of the Terme di Saturnia is an oasis of relaxation with four thermal basins outside, waterfalls, hydro-massage and warm and cold-water pacours. The thermal waters have a constant temperature of 37ยบ C, allowing their use all year long.
3 The Terme di Saturnia has over 50 treatment rooms and is the biggest Spa centre in Europe. 4 The BlackRose Spa program is the ultimate luxury; alone or as a couple treatment.
If you have spent one day at the Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort, you know that this is a very special place where natural components of the thermal water regenerate the body and revitalize the spirit. A place, where guest can experience themselves in a holistic way; body and spirit, from the smallest sentiments to hidden feelings.
5 The sulphuric water produces a special kind of algae in the basins, which have a healing effect and are used successfully in the house brand cosmetic line.
All the treatments in Saturnia are based on traditional therapies and are used preventative, not when first symptoms of an illness surface. The therapeutic and revitalizing characteristics of the 37ยบ C warm water and its inner energetic strength have a deep effect on the guest. Please request information from your OpenTresor-Ambassador +41 044 208 31 55 or visit www.opentresor.com
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Summum Bonum. Enjoyments.
Abstract: The 38-year old Canadian Swiss Angus breeder Chris Weder lives and works with his wife Erika and their four children in Rycroft, Alberta. With its herd of 800 animals and some 1,100 ha pasture they produce Heritage Angus Beef of extraordinary quality (in a group of 20 enterprises and more than 20,000 animals). The quality is incomparable and is a result of the animals being outside all year round. They are also bred and raised without any hormones or antibiotics. The Heritage Angus Beef is sold worldwide as “all natural beef�. The bull-breeding program does not include the addition of any concentrated feed and helps to constantly grow the herd. The giant bulls have won numerous awards in Canada.
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Be part of something good: Heritage Angus Beef Text: Frank Widmer Pictures: CH.K.
The “Kulinarische Welt” likes the hindquarter of the cattle best. Because of their softness and marbling, these pieces are a culinary highlight and therefore preferred to the more reasonably priced parts from the front quarter. Thus the then missing filets and entrecotes must be imported, because there is not enough meat on the market. In this segment, only first-class sustainable quality has a shot. And every Canadian wants to be in the market and, above all, push the US beef out of the renowned restaurant kitchens. One of these Canadians is Swiss-born Chris Weder, who breeds Angus beef in Rycroft in Alberta Province. His animals grow organically and without any hormones or growth boosters in the Canadian prairie until they are exported all over the world. This is how we eventually noticed them and decided to learn more about the Spirit View ranch: Quality from the farm When travelling from Calgary to Rycroft we could for the first time imagine what people were talking about when referring to the vast landscape of Canada. Here, in the far North of Canada, the Weder family lives with their four children. They specialize on breeding and fattening Angus beef. The next truly big city, Edmonton, is more than a five-hour drive away! At first glance, life here in the North is not for everyone. And there is no way you can compare it to Switzerland. The countries are just too different, although both are beautiful in their own way. The landscape of Canada with its vast spaces and long distances is very impressive for us Swiss. The huge forest ad the giant rivers seem strange, but attractive. However, we will be even more impressed, because we are supposed to enter the heartland of Canada, to get to know the Heritage Angus Beef. Water as basis for the entire value-chain Six years ago the young family moved to the Spirit View Ranch and started to regenerate humid areas right away, so that the cattle would have enough natural water. The Weder’s worked with the North American NGO “Ducks Unlimited” from the start. More nature preserves, ponds and marshland came to life, year after year. In the meantime, over 100 dams were built, which collect the water every spring after the snow has melted and for some part, keep the water level for the whole year. It is fascinating to see how a number of water plants grow here and many small animals have found their way into the marshland.
Conclusion: For this story we travelled into the vast countryside of Canada. For a week we lived like Cowboys. We put up fences, drove cattle to their pastures, watched beavers, coyotes and bears and erected beehives. We were at a rodeo, horseback riding and on the Peace River. Only to tell you in pictures and a diary where the best meat in the world comes from.
Summum Bonum. Enjoyments.
This way, the natural interplay between cows and nature is possible. Maybe the most important principle of the Spirit View Ranch. In any case, the farmers enjoy that the number of other animals - apart from the herd - also increases, e. g. birds and ducks, but also big mammals such as bears, wolves and coyotes. After all, the variety is also a reinforcement for the Weder family that their way of working is successful. It also shows the enormous importance of water; water equals life. We had the chance to visit the property during summer, and we were quite surprised when there was still daylight at eleven in the night! The sun rises again at four in the morning, so the days are extremely long. According to the motto, we can sleep enough during the winter, the Weder family enjoy the time; in winter it is dark all day and extremely cold, too. From day one we were impressed by the authenticity. After all, the Spirit View Ranch is not a hotel, but a working ranch. In other words; a giant farm. The next neighbours live some three kilometres away, and next to the main house there are three, four small cottages. No water, no electricity. But for some reason, you get used to that really quickly. Maybe that is because of the friendly welcome by the Weder family. But surely the unique stage plays a role, too. However, it is not always picturesque. At night time, when it is finally dark, the land comes to life… It was clear after the first day, that the time on the ranch would not be a holiday. The trip with the Jeep across the huge pastures to check on the cows turned out to be a real cattle drive, driving them from one pasture to the next. Incredible that this is usually done by Christoph and Erika all by themselves. Just imagine you open a gate and some 800 hungry cows run onto the pasture; the earth is literally shaking. However, the cows always leave room for other events. Or have you ever seen a real beaver colony? The effort of the little mammals is incredible when they take down entire forests and turn rivers into big lakes. This collects the water that the cows need during summer time. We are amazed – this is true natural balance! We are also amazed when we were supposed to put up a beehive on our fourth day. However, Beehive hardly covers it – they are giant! Together with “Bernie”, Christopher Weder does not only breed his own cattle, but also grows his own grass. The grass called “Lucerner” is grown on special surfaces and the bees make sure it flourishes. Over years, giant grasslands were created that way, worked by the bees, ensuring there is enough seed to plant on the Weder property. Erika and Christoph Weder are convinced that their cows love that Lucerne grass, and if the cow likes it, it must be good for the beef. But if you think nature means complete harmony, you are wrong. On one of the pastures we find a half eaten calf, probably wolves. That is the other side of nature, because it is impossible to supervise the cows 24 hours per day. But the Weder family accepts the fact, because this is what living in harmony with nature really means. Everything is different here! Maybe a bit bigger. Just like the country. And the Heritage Angus Beef: maybe the best meat worldwide. Please request information from your OpenTresor-Ambassador +41 044 208 31 55 or visit www.opentresor.com
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1 Growing their own Lucerne grass 2 The herd in the farmer’s coop counts over 20,000 animals. 3 Whether in a five-star restaurant or over an open fire: Heritage Angus Beef is deemed the best meat in the world.
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Celebration at Castello Sforzesco in Milan June 2010
Brioni 65th 1945 – 2010
Celebration at Castello S in Milan June 2010
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1 Antonio Pipitone of Brioni and Marigay Mckee from Harrods
Sforzesco
8 Dizzi Alfons, Alan Friedman and Gildo Zegna
2 Gaddo Della Gherardesca
9 Jason Basmajian, Anna Fonticoli, Gianluigi Di Nino of Brioni
3 Alessandro Dell’Acqua
10 Jacky Guilloizeau and Vittorio Bigoi of Brioni
4 Brioni team: Adriano Di Quinzio, Flaviano Pizzorulli, Luca Trabucco, Gianfranco De Matteis, Sergio Vanni, Angelo Petrucci
11 Carlo Ducci, Vogue Italia
5 Bruce Pask from NY Times Style Magazine
12 Lorenzo Glavici and Sergio Vanni of Brioni 13 Sergio Loro Piana and wife
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14 Pigi Loro Piana and wife
7 Allegra Bossi Pucci
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Celebration at Castello Sforzesco in Milan
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Ladies and Gentlemen... The Wardrobe!
Spring Summer 2011
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Summum Bonum. Conclusion
Just a few words from the editor-in-chief.
SUMMUM BONUM is a magazine made 100% by hand. It is distributed worldwide to all Brioni customers. Summum Bonum cannot be purchased.
Fashion companies often bear the name of their famous founders. However, at Brioni, you will not find a family member that gave his or her name. “Brijuni” is the name of a small group of islands near the Croatian coast, once meeting point for the rich and beautiful. Between the two world wars this island belonged to Italy, and it was just then when Nazareno Fonticoli, popular tailor for gentlemen from the Abruzzi, visited these islands. He was so enchanted by their beauty that he named his company after the island group when he founded it together with his partner Gaetano Savi in 1945. Some 65 years later Brioni is the name for tailor-made suits The power and myth of the brand is based on the fact that the most powerful men of the world wear it: Clark Gable, Nelson Mandela, Luciano Pavaroti, Kirk Douglas, and of course James Bond. Despite all their political differences even George W. Bush and Barack Obama have one thing in common: Brioni suits.
CHRISTOF KÜNG has been responsible for different magazines for the past 20 years, both as a journalist and a photographer. Since many years he has lived authentically in a world of true values. The consequent attitude convinced Brioni to make him editor-in-chief for their worldwidemcustomer But it has been a while since Brioni only stood magazine. for traditional men’s suits. With Alessandro Dell’Acquas, a true Italian designed the next lady’s SUMMUM BONUM collection and won the attention and many positive AND CHRISTOF KÜNG reactions at the Milan Fashion Show. As opposed are synonymous and to the menswear, the collection for women is very ambassadors for the valuable “casual”, almost suitable for everyday life, but on a good of a brand like Brioni; very high level. The art was in the combination of YOU – the customer. traditional tailoring with the new art of applied We hope you will enjoy arts. One thing remained: the love and precision in SUMMUM BONUM. detail. The new women’s collection is very sensual. Typical for a woman with some charm, courage and openness. It has something Mediterranean and flair of the good taste of the Italian fashion world.
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In general, the new collection corresponds to a new trend. The desire for more freedom. Kind of a very old, but at the same time new luxury. It must allow freedoms. Maybe the term luxury is experiencing a renaissance these days anyway. Because for a long time now, luxury has been understood the way it was intended to. For too long luxury was just a word used in sales and marketing. Craftsmanship, sustainability and values got pushed into the background. Luxury was misunderstood. However, the term has meant the same ever since humankind existed: luxury does not mean multiplication, but reduction. Luxury is not piling up something, but rather avoiding too much of anything. Luxury means concentration, not wasting. Luxury is quiet, not load. Luxury means a maximum of quality in all ways of life. Just as Oscar Wilde said: “I am a modest person and I always want the best.” Handmade and honest craftsmanship is once again thought-after. A believable history, tradition and a certain origin make for a true and sustainable luxury brand. And luxury brands work for those people who want to distinguish themselves from the masses. Not for everyone. Selective, personal and handmade. Just like the new magazine SUMMUM BONUM by Brioni. Picture by picture, line by line. Because for you, only the best is good enough! Your Editor-in-Chief, Christof Küng (Contact: christof.kueng@summumbonum.ch)
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