PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE SS2018 by PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

www.fashiontech.berlin

AT KÜHLHAUS STATION-BERLIN 2

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

eople who are constantly confronted with new perspectives don’t hold onto their own ideas of truth as strongly. Those who have the opportunity to journey to the world’s most beautiful places not only broaden their horizons but also find ways to make these places their home. Fashion acts as a meeting place for many creative people, meaning that productive exchange inevitably leads to foresight and resolve. There are few businesses that are as driven by entrepreneurial personalities as fashion is, defined by people who design, promote, market and inspire the products. Without their individuality brands can die; and by using it they can equally be resuscitated. Fashion is a business too. A billion-dollar one. It is volatile, demanding, international, sometimes brutal and, through digitisation, omnipresent. I use Instagram and other social media to follow the global trends of the ‘cool kids’. Change is part of the nature of things: this is a fast-moving industry – that goes for the people too. I have a large network and most of my friends are scattered around the world. Almost all of them work in the fashion industry. Fashion shows, trade fairs, collections, strategies, aesthetics, chance acquaintances and soul mates, all at opposite ends of the Earth. This all means one thing: fun. The fabric that holds us together is not only the business. It is also our shared fascination at the continued potential for reinvention. Thanks to my job, network and fashion itself, my perspective is always being refreshed – on a daily basis. I always try to keep this miracle of fashion in my mind’s eye. It is important that we define ourselves not only by numbers and events; it’s a question of what we want and what drives us. It’s also about consciously seizing the moment and enjoying it. After all, fashion equals opportunity. We wish you a successful and inspiring visit, Warm regards, ANITA TILLMANN

MAGAZINE 06 032 Queen Who is Maria Koch, the designer behind 032c’s apparel? 12 Body Beautiful Beauty plays big at SHOW & ORDER and PREMIUM 14 Shopping for Sensations Designing the new retail experience 18 It’s A Street Thing Dissecting this season’s hottest trend 27 Brand Profiles Five cool brands to watch (and buy) 34 Charitable Shopping When looking good comes with doing good 36 Style Check A selection of must haves from the fairs 40 Tech Specs All that is new at #fashiontech 42 We Are Family SEEK and BRIGHT thrive on their respective communities 44 Cut Loose A look at the fabric trends for A / W 2018 / 19 46 Getting down to business How the PREMIUM GROUP supports fashion start-ups 48 Viva Versace An exhibition celebrates the legendary designer 50 Quick Talk Gallerist Johann König on hoodies and politics GUIDE G02 What’s New? G04 PREMIUM G06 SHOW & ORDER G08 SEEK G10 BRIGHT G12 #FASHIONTECH G14 PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH

IMPRINT PREMIUM Exhibitions Publisher Anita Tillmann Editor-in-Chief Christine Zeine Advertising Marco Gröning PREMIUM Exhibitions GmbH Luckenwalder Str. 4 – 6 10963 Berlin +49 (0)30 629 0850 premium-group.com

BBE Group Managing Director Christian Bracht Managing Editor Hans Bussert Art Director Christian Küpker Contributors Berit Grosswendt, Nathan Ma, Christoph Mack, Maya-Roisin Slater, Josie Thaddeus-Johns Copy Editing Josie Thaddeus-Johns Proofreading Gareth Davies Pre-Press Reinhard Hasewend BBE Branded Entertainment GmbH Alexanderstr. 7, 10178 Berlin bbe-group.de

PRESENTS

CREATIVE

C AR AVAN

P H O T O G R A P H Y C R E AT I V E

C A R AVA N

PREMIUM EXHIBITION

SEEK

SHOW & ORDER

JULY

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Designer Maria Koch is responsible for 032c’s newest venture: an apparel line. Premium Group Magazine talked to her about creating a fashion tribe from the red fashion bible.

t’s drop day at the 032c offices. A new collaboration with legendary streetwear brand Stüssy is about to go on sale, meaning eager keyboard surfers worldwide are patiently hitting refresh on the brand’s webstore. The design cooperation consists of a single long-sleeved white shirt, with the 032c logo stitched on top of the Stüssy scribble. Once uploaded to the store, the item comes with the warning that only one can be purchased at a time, presumably to stop resellers scooping up this in-demand piece. The super-limited production run is unusual for a 032c drop. “We’re not into exclusivity. I’m super up for being inclusive, everybody should be at the party if they want to be,” says Maria Koch, the director of the brand. It sounds somewhat counter-intuitive to hear this from one of the coolest, most sought-after labels of the moment. 032c’s inimitable red-logoed clothes can be found in the wardrobes of the world’s supermodels, fashion editors and celebrities. Fashion often relies on this cachet: designer clothes are unique, and rare, therefore desirable, so the logic goes. This young apparel line, however, takes a more welcoming approach.

the most exciting names in the industry (Gosha Rubchinskiy, Alyx, Carhartt) and it was spotted on the hottest influencers from Tokyo to London to New York and, perhaps most importantly, on social media. “It would be a little naive to say we were surprised, but we’re very glad that it turned out this well,” Koch smiles. Despite the huge attention the designs have received from industry connoisseurs, Koch is still interested in ‘real’ people wearing her clothes: “I will never do a 1200 Euro sweatshirt,” she says, sipping coffee on her balcony in the St. Agnes complex, where the 032c offices are based. Koch and her husband Joerg, who runs the magazine side of the business, have a one-minute walk to their office. The whole place feels like a family affair, with their dog Toastie (named after the buttered-toast smell attributed to its breed in Tom Ford’s “A Single Man”) eagerly welcoming visitors. It’s this Brutalist complex that plays host to the range of brand’s endeavours, from exhibitions to parties, to the brand that Koch is now masterminding. “It’s about a complete idea of what 032c is,” Koch says. “It’s not like we want to build a whole 032c world. It’s more about what makes sense for us or what is interesting to us in the moment.”

032c had been publishing their culturally monumental magazine for 15 years when they began to sell clothes. Because of this, they initially didn’t quite know what to call it. “First we named it ‘merchandise’, because if we started to do a collection, nobody would understand why a cultural magazine is doing a fashion collection, even if I’m a fashion designer,” says Koch. And yet, to 032c’s loyal audience of prosumers, design geeks and culturally switched-on fans, it made perfect sense. Drops sold out, collaborations were announced with some of

The designs so far have been classic in their shapes: longsleeved T-shirts, sweaters, hoodies and sweatpants. The 032c aesthetic represents quality at every juncture, so production is incredibly important to Koch and her team. “We designed the supply chain,” she says. “It really starts in the thread itself, where the cotton comes from, and what kinds of colours they use, so that it looks really beautiful even after several washings.” But the ever-new innovation that keeps their audience clicking refresh on drop day is the diverse range of cultural

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By JosieThaddeus-Johns Portraits by Christoph Mack

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PROFILE

inspirations that are incorporated into subject matter. A line from a Crowded House political love song that Koch found beautiful is turned into the scrawled “Don’t Dream It’s Over” jumper. Elsewhere, a hoodie from the “Pyrate Society” line is embroidered with the small capitals of a brutal message: “The beatings will continue until morale improves”. The Stüssy drop today is a classic example of how Koch seizes inspiration with her gut – the Rainer Maria Rilke poem “The Panther” is printed in the streetwear brand’s famous font across the back, a small pawmark just underneath. “This is the typical 032c combination I think ... it’s what Joerg and I think is interesting.” Next up on Koch’s radar: the smoker’s collection, which will include an ashtray, lighter, and all the paraphernalia for lighting up. After that, a collaboration with Swarovski that will be more of a full fashion collection, with eight styles, including a coat and pants. An enthusiasm for production spreads across the 032c machine, and leads the power couple towards the many different formats they work in – they’ve even considered creating a hotel. “It’s possible that we could team up with an architect and build houses ... When you work non-stop with aesthetic and content, it’s just a matter of which channel you use.” This voracious cultural attitude is a radical approach that goes against

the rulebook of how fashion works. Given this, it’s often hard to remember that Koch has worked in some of the most established fashion brands in the industry, such as Jil Sander, Prada and Marios Schwab. More recently, she also taught at ESMOD’s master’s programme, which she enjoyed, even if she found it hard to be even-handed with students: “I’m perhaps too egocentric and idiosyncratic to really be a good teacher. I’m not so patient!” And yet, even when she was in the more conventional side of the industry, she didn’t slot neatly into the model of how the system works. “I never really fitted job descriptions,” she explains, although her focus has always been about creative direction. “I have precise visions of what things should look, feel, smell like. I do what I do because it fits, and I know exactly what I want.” Despite this background, 032c have created a brand that feels like it comes from outside the fashion industry – cutting out any unnecessary structures and gatekeepers in order to connect directly with customers. “Isn’t it interesting that all the new successful brands are made by amateurs? It’s The Row, it’s Yeezy, it’s Off White – Virgil [Abloh] is an architect!” Koch says. These brands have all triumphed, even though they were launched by personalities outside the fashion establishment.

032C WORKSHOP AT ST. AGNES

PROFILE This is also how Koch sees the world – with an energy to produce freely, and a curiosity to ask whether the conventional constraints are necessary. Why produce a whole collection? Why offer clothes in seasons? “There are just so many things you need to question. I have the feeling a lot of young brands don’t do this, because nobody told 032C BRAN DING them to or perhaps they’re not KIT trained to be as curious.” 032c apparel has drops every six to eight weeks. And each style sells out faster than you can say “Manual for Freedom, Research and Creativity” (the magazine’s tagline). This commercial success partly comes from careful business decision-making: “I’m not a fan of waste, so we have to decide before we launch something how much we’re going to produce.” This is made particularly important by the fact that all 032c products have a no-discount policy, even at stores where they are stocked. “I don’t believe in sales,” Koch says. “That’s why we have to really plan.” However, it would be unrealistic

032C PYRATE SOCIETY RANGE

to attribute the brand’s success solely to a canny production strategy. There’s also the fact that the 032c identity has had a long time to resonate with consumers and establish its authenticity. “We’ve been building the brand for 15 years through the magazine,” she says. “I think it’s so amazing and powerful to take this aesthetic and this content and turn it into a product.” The love for the 032c aesthetic is never more obvious than at one of the infamous Société de 032c bar nights at their Workshop in Berlin. “When we do these parties, I’m so interested in all these interesting, nerdy, beautiful people who are there to join us. It’s really cool to see who comes, and who feels like ‘Yes, I get what you’re doing.’” It’s there that it becomes apparent that the red covers of the magazine have built up to an intangible, inimitable cultural moment: they’ve created a tribe. People who share an aesthetic understanding of the world, and perhaps more. A recent addition to the 032c webstore is transfer sets that allow consumer to customise their own clothes with the brand’s logo, or, alternatively, the Bella Hadid cover of their issue #32. Inclusivity is about allowing participation to everyone on their own terms. But first you must create something to share, something to stand for. In other words, to be inclusive you don’t have to be devoid of meaning. “On a certain level, it’s specific, it’s addressed to someone ...” Koch says. “But it’s for everyone who wants it?” PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE asks. “Yes. Absolutely.”

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BEAUTY

PREMIUM GROUP is exploring consumers’ new relationship with beauty products

t’s all in the details. Just as any great painter knows, composition comes from the minute elements that work together to decisively shape the overall image. And great style is no different. A look becomes perfect when all the elements are in tune with one another: great shoes, clothes and jewellery need to be set off by the perfect hair, skin and make-up to truly complete a look. Buyers need to think holistically – beauty can no longer be separated from fashion. These products are part of our lifestyle now. New, niche brands are popping up to meet the demands of this changing market landscape, filling spots in concept-focused retail spaces. A sophisticated clientele is more interested than ever in the unique purchasing opportunities these smaller brands offer. At the same time, mainstream brands are turning to the power of the internet to show the potential of their bestselling products via influencer tutorials. In short: beauty is big bucks. The PREMIUM GROUP is taking this approach in their S / S 2018 fairs, showing how it’s all about completing a head-to-toe makeover with these little extra additions. At SHOW & ORDER, Schwarzkopf will be teaming up with Refinery29 to prove that hair and make-up can put the final touches to a full look in the 15LOOKS Trend Shows. Featuring a diverse range of real-life models selected from Inselberg Models, the show will be styled using clothes from the existing brand collections by five influencers. Two from the Refinery29 team (Cloudy Zackrocki and Nora Beckershaus) as well as Nike van Dinther, Masha Sedgwick and Lisa Banholzer will each style three looks. This will be a chance to watch the influential potential of beauty unfold in action.

Elsewhere at KRAFTWERK, Sleek has teamed up with content creator agency Ykone for “Beauty Hack”, an event discussing the huge impact that influencers and magazines have had on beauty campaigns. The panel will feature internationally renowned bloggers and influencers such as Culture With Coco and MadameTamTam alongside detailed case studies from the magazine’s history, all focused on the topic of “How to build a beauty brand”. The future of cosmetics advertising starts here. Furthermore, SHOW & ORDER will also host a range of beauty brands on its 500 m2 top floor. TokyoMilk, Skin Design London, Be [...] my Friend, April Aromatics and Berlin based cosmetic start-up und Gretel, plus many others will present their youthful and chic body products. But beauty can also be all about looking good on the move. The double-decker Creative Caravan by Instinkte has been converted into a travelling photo studio, complete with props, clothes and backdrops that will zoom around Berlin on its fashionable tour of the fairs. On 6th July members of the public will be invited for a speedy makeover that will then be captured by the wild innovation of celebrity photographer Kai Stuht’s lens. A wide range of unique skincare and beauty brands such as Dearsoap, Lumi, SA.AL & CO, RPL Maison, Serge Blanco – to name a few – can also be found at PREMIUM, which will host a Beauty Spot inside its CUBES section. Look out for the accessories just nearby, which make the perfect retail partner for these scented goodies. After all, the devil is in the detail. For more details please see guide pages G04 (PREMIUM) and G06 (SHOW & ORDER)

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE UND GRETEL

UND GRETEL

SKIN DESIGN LONDON

AMBERGREEN

ATELIER OBLIQUE UND GRETEL

RETAIL

SHOPPING FOR SENSATIONS LN-CC, London

How a new wave of retail experiences are changing how customers shop

By Nathan Ma

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

ANDREAS MURKUDIS, Berlin

t’s a fact: we are entering a new era of commerce. The old ways of simply presenting stock and simply helping customers to pick the right size are over. As new channels have opened up, consumer needs have changed tremendously. And herein lies a big opportunity. Even though we can find bountiful visual inspiration at the tips of our fingers, we still yearn for the discovery and presence of goods in the physical space. The more tangible, the better. That is why successful store concepts create customer journeys that target all the senses, making the most of the IRL. “The traditional POS has to become a point of experience,” says Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner at PREMIUM GROUP. Industry leaders seem to agree, because they are setting their sights on creating a holistic experience that responds to this changed set of consumer needs. These make use of all of the advantages the physical space has to offer. Acting as curators, brands are creating retail experiences that feel handpicked, resulting in environments where customers and sales staff come together like they would at the tastefully decorated apartment of a well-travelled mutual friend. It’s about envisioning the store of the future primarily as a space for cultural exchange, and secondly as a place to showcase products. And just like your aforementioned friend has a new story to share at every gathering, retailers should offer customers a new experience every few weeks – without a doubt the most surefire way to keep them coming back. But how does one create those ever-changing, unique experiences? The PREMIUM GROUP’s S / S 2018 iterations present a range of inspirations that help retailers design forward-thinking customer journeys that speak to all our senses – from the tactile to the culinary.

Don’t forget the latter: these days no conversation between culturally versed individuals is complete without turning to our tastebuds. With this in mind, German shirt-maker Van Laack, an exhibitor at PREMIUM, has developed “La Cottoneria”, a revolutionary concept that brings a culinary edge to clothes. Think smartly-styled waiters serving dishes that emulate buttonholes and shirt fabrics. For Van Laack this is far more than just a gimmick. Apart from installing take-away counters and a seated lounge at PREMIUM, the brand is opening a 200 m2 flagship restaurant at their headquarters in Mönchengladbach this September. Van Laack retailers can even have variously sized La Cottonerias installed as a shop-within-a-shop on their floors beginning in November 2017. While branching into food seems logical – after all, a customer who drops in for a coffee might stay for a browse – it comes with its own set of challenges. Any retailer considering offering their customers more than just a muffin might want to start with an experienced partner. Whether it’s PREMIUM, SEEK, BRIGHT or SHOW & ORDER, the group’s fairs offer a tasteful insight into the menus of many gastro-entrepreneurs – discover the range of possibilities just by having a snack on the fair grounds. Some vendors such as Frooters even offer a franchise concept that can be adapted directly to the needs of fashion stores. Great food, commually enjoyed is the great unfier. Beauty products offer another fertile opportunity for retailers looking to enhance their customer journey – one of the fastest growing product categories. This requires companies to think beyond the brand, to even think beyond fashion. Unlike perfumeries and drug stores, fashion stores have the advantage of really understanding their customers’ avenues 15

RETAIL

LN-CC, London

DO DESIGN, Madrid

of self-expression. In the end, it’s about offering guidance on the right beauty products in order to help shoppers complete their look along with their fashion purchases – a stylised look needs to be head-to-toe. Naturally this requires the sales staff to really understand the product and how it is best used. Interested retailers should pay special attention to the trend shows that are taking place at SHOW & ORDER on 4th July. Hosted in collaboration with the online publication Refinery29, these shows aim to highlight the ways in which clothes and make-up work together to create that perfect look. It’s true that these days customers don’t really care about the location in which they purchase a certain product anymore. Instead, they want to buy into a story, which is why they need to be told one. And while marketers have exploited the term ‘storytelling’ for a while now, there is still some confusion about what it actually means. To put it simply: retailers should emulate their understanding and personal ideas about fashion in the environment in which they sell it. A customer should be able to understand a store the second he or she enters it. The best way to do this is take one’s original offering – a fashion collection – and then create matching sorroundings to tell a richer story. Great examples for such enriched, on-brand scenarios can be found at the stalls of Scotch & Soda, Liu Jo, JOOP!, Drykorn, Set and Ya Ya at PREMIUM fair. The experiences offered by these labels really function as best-case scenarios of how to present a brand. Of course, a stall is not a store, which is why retailers should look into their own ways of embracing the possibilities of considered interior design. Adding matching furniture and other design objects to retail spaces gives context 16

to one’s core stock. And while it plays a major part in helping the customer to understand a brand, it also comes with the benefit of selling them something extra – many leading stores already have a price tag attached to the furniture in their stores. Retailers looking for inspiration should pay special attention to SHOW & ORDER’s fair space at KRAFTWERK. Its floors have been outfitted with furniture from mintroom.de – whose young team of architects, interior and product designers also happily help shops amp up their interiors. The most important point is to make sure you create an inviting space where customers can pass their time, meet friends – and maybe even enjoy some food – before they buy the jacket that everyone agreed looked so good on them, and then, why not some more? A lipstick, a cushion, their next dinner table ... the possibilities are endless.

THE STORE, Berlin

SERIE 9000 | WASCHMASCHINEN MIT SOFTWATER-TECHNOLOGIE

DER BESCHÜTZER DES KLEINEN SCHWARZEN Farben, so kräftig wie am ersten Tag. Als erste Waschmaschinen überhaupt enthärten die Geräte der Serie 9000 von AEG das Wasser, bevor es in die Trommel gelangt. Jedes Kleidungsstück wird so schonend und gründlich gereinigt – selbst bei niedrigen Temperaturen. Das Resultat: Form und Qualität bleiben bestehen und Farben behalten auch nach vielen Wäschen ihre Intensität. Erfahren Sie mehr auf www.aeg.de/softwater

STREETWEAR

The Premium Group’s S / S 2018 fairs boast a wide array of streetwear labels. Here we explain the trend’s roots in subculture and how it became the buzzword of the season.

By Maya-Roisin Slater

SEEK

CHAMPION REVERSE WEAVE

Informed by the DIY aesthetics of early punk and hip-hop, streetwear has always possessed a kind of youthful, effortless chic. Its move into the mainstream came on the back of youth culture’s most subversive and subsequently revered figures: graffiti artists, skaters and musicians. Simultaneously casual and highly designed, these looks were initially distributed by tastemakers, who prided themselves on individual styles that were bred on the streets. These products and experiences were once reserved for a small circle of people ‘in the know’, but as the years have gone on, the scarce availability of select sneakers, apparel and limited items have made them covetable for outsiders looking into this exciting design niche. As a result, the circle has grown. While some labels have increased production to keep up with global demand, others have remained staunchly aware of their roots, refusing to ‘sell out’ by growing too quickly. It’s become a badge of honour for brands to remain connected to the people that made them popular. If

KAPPA KONTROLL

SEEK

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

The Hundreds, Thrasher and similar brands of the era brought forward the first salvo of streetwear, new labels continue to carry the torch. Sometimes even branching out from the established idea of what streetwear is. For younger consumers it’s now a major buzzword, even for those who have never picked up a skateboard or a sticker-covered guitar.

OBEY

BRIGHT

The internet has been a big part of this change; the web made information on this formerly niche interest more readily available, making global brands more accessible as well as creating new platforms for aficionados to buy and sell limited drops. For smaller brands a social media presence is what gets the ball rolling, while direct-to-consumer e-commerce maximises profits and enhances the feeling of exclusivity for consumers. By utilising social media – particularly Instagram – to its fullest, strong product placement and high-level celebrity co-signs, streetwear brands can rapidly gain popularity in ways they haven’t typically in the past. Long-standing brands like Adidas, Champion and Vans have always had their own place within the landscape, but are also engaging streetwear culture through limited drops and targeted collaborations with other brands (think Superga’s recent collab with Gosha Rubchinskiy), thereby continually pushing for creative innovation, even from the most established echelons of the fashion ecosystem. Generally speaking, labels that take risks, challenge conventions and champion new aesthetics stand a better chance at lasting in the market than a label that simply bows to the status quo. Today, consumers are inundated with choices and information, and it only takes a thumb scroll to discover a dozen new brands being promoted by Instagram influencers. What started as a whisper on the streets has turned into a roar online. The key to streetwear is in the hunt, the chase of new design influences across the cyber-universe and onto the sidewalks of Melbourne, London, New York. Luckily for us, even this latest iteration is not without its scavengers, trawling online forums and the deepest corners of Instagram to find the new underground, staking first claim on what will inevitably be declared ‘the next big thing’.

SHOW & ORDER

PARKA LONDON

FRED PERRY

SEEK

VANS

BRIGHT

NEW BLACK SEEK

STREETWEAR

HUF

BRIGHT

PARAJUMPERS

PREMIUM

ELLESSE

SEEK

PREMIUM

Under the PREMIUM umbrella, we find established labels that are experiencing a revival in popularity due to their heritage appeal and speciality products. For years, Alpha Industries was a main outfitter of the American military, and now the brand’s bomber jackets have become an indispensable menswear staple. Superga’s vulcanised rubber sneakers have embodied classic design for decades, and are now being rediscovered in part thanks to key collaborations with the likes of Gosha Rubchinskiy. Outdoor footwear brand Birkenstock is also making a push towards the limelight, and their rustic outdoor options are finding new appreciation among younger consumers.

SEEK

At SEEK, visitors will encounter a number of retro footwear imprints including FILA, Hi-Tec, Hummel, K-Swiss, Airwalk, Gola Classics, PRO Keds and more, all of which are reintroducing vintage styles to make a bid for a share of the current footwear market. Nostalgic sportswear and workwear names like Eastpak, Champion and Dickies also contrast against newcomers like the footwear cleaning products from Jason Markk and headwear offerings from Dad’s Cap.

BRIGHT

Finally, BRIGHT takes it back to the beginning with originator labels like Thrasher, Vans, The Hundreds, and other skate-based brands. With names like HUF, OBEY and RVCA, BRIGHT continues to track the evolution of skate apparel as it moves into the modern day, and merging with streetwear. Staple accessory offerings are rounded out by the likes of American Socks and True Boxers.

SHOW & ORDER

Attendees of SHOW & ORDER AT KRAFTWERK BERLIN will find curated offerings from a feminine perspective. While girls have no problem pulling off a bomber jacket or a pair of sneakers, SHOW & ORDER goes deeper to explore how fashion staples and wardrobe essentials are interpreted and loved by the female audience. 25

ALPHA INDUSTRIES

PREMIUM

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

The international business and networking platform for contemporary fashion

Street culture at its best with a portfolio that reflects the zeitgeist

The leading trade show for street and urbanwear, skateboarding and board sports

A feminine force to inspire, translating global fashion trends into an overall look

The conference on the future of fashion: keynotes, exhibitions and masterclasses

With Premium, Show&Order at Kraftwerk Berlin, Seek, Bright, Premium Order Munich and #fashiontech – the conference on the future of fashion – the Premium Group is the flagship fashion event organiser at the forefront of innovation within the European trade show landscape. Representing around 1,800 brands, 81 percent of them from foreign countries, over a total of 51,000 square metres in Berlin, and with new labels making up 30 percent each season, the group delivers a visionary snapshot of the market across all platforms. The portfolio of each platform is carefully edited every season, presenting in-demand collections, innovative products and new concepts. The group’s strength is the ability to always keep a watchful eye on supply and demand and ensure a perfect balance between both. Trade shows are still the most important business platforms to market a product. PREMIUM GROUP’s formats do not simply serve as marketplaces, but take visitors to the next level by involving them in a world of emotions and inspiration. PREMIUM GROUP events are transformed from points of sale into points of experience. By still serving as the ideal places for business transactions, each platform is strongly focused on delivering relevant content and information for their dedicated community, enabling knowledge transfer and serving as a place to meet. This season, we are offering a new digital solution to further foster connections within the industry: PREMIUM GROUP DIGITAL. This new tool offers brands a platform to build a public portfolio and manage new contacts. Retailers can effortlessly preview collections and get in touch with brands directly via a simple messaging function. G02

PREMIUM GROUP CATALOGUE Streetwear, with its cocktail of influences like skateboarding, workwear, military and athletics-inspired clothing, is next season’s biggest trend. The key for every buyer is to find the right approach to translate the trend to match the client’s needs and at the same time stay true to their store’s DNA. In order to provide exactly this insight and inspiration, PREMIUM GROUP presents different interpretations of streetwear across each of the group’s platforms, and shows how established brands can be combined to compose a variety of streetstyle looks.

The new PREMIUM GROUP Catalogue now offers a comprehensive overview of all shows, events, brands and services across our platforms – the visitor’s compact guide for the season

PREMIUM GROUP APP

The PREMIUM GROUP’s app does not only include all events and brands, it also guides visitors professionally and efficiently to all events and through all areas of each show via the GPRS navigation tool

SHUTTLE NETWORK

The changing retail landscape calls for the traditional POS to become a point of experience. A place for cultural exchange, the store of the future engages its customers on a multi-sensual level. Art installations, changing interior design, food concepts and a curated music selection all help to create that pullfactor that keeps customers coming back. The PREMIUM GROUP’s S / S 2018 iterations offer a range of inspirations for retailers looking to design customer journeys that speak to all senses – from the tactile to the culinary.

Beauty products are an important detail to complete the perfect look, and they are fast becoming one of the key categories. The new beauty area on SHOW & ORDER’s top floor, and PREMIUM’s THE CUBES present a range of beauty brands that are well suited for integration into a fashion concept store. But as retailers should also be able to consult customers on what’s right for them, SHOW & ORDER’s TREND SHOWS aim to inspire how to compose perfect looks for different types of women.

Expanded shuttle fleet for easy connections between all the PREMIUM GROUP’s events, partner events and other fashion hot spots

JOINT TICKETING

One ticket for all – PREMIUM, SHOW & ORDER, SEEK, BRIGHT, #FASHIONTECH, Green Showroom, Ethical Fashion Show

NETWORKING SPACES

Dedicated lounges offer buyers and press the perfect place to relax, network and make new contacts

CONCIERGE

Assists visitors with Berlin’s culinary and nightlife options

These days, no conversation between culturally-versed individuals is complete without turning to food. As a result, a whole new food culture based on top-quality produce and the concept of sustainability has emerged within the world’s metropolises. Leading the way, the PREMIUM GROUP will be introducing a plethora of innovative and diverse food concepts at all three locations: KRAFTWERK, ARENA and STATION-BERLIN – from raw food to Southern BBQ. Provided by local partners, they also serve as an inspiration to retailers interested in integrating food into their offerings.

FREE WIFI

In all PREMIUM GROUP locations

PREMIUM GROUP DIGITAL

COMING SOON: A new tool to build a public portfolio and manage new contacts. Preview collections and get in touch with brands directly via simple messaging function G03

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PREMIUM 4 – 6 JULY 2017

ADDRESS

STATION-BERLIN Luckenwalder Strasse 4 – 6 10963 Berlin

OPENING TIMES

4 – 5 July, 10 am – 7 pm 6 July, 10 am – 5 pm

PORTFOLIO 1,000 brands 73 % international 30 % new entries

SEGMENTS Menswear Womenswear Footwear Accessories Beauty

STREETWEAR

PREMIUM occupies a space oriented to the classic and glamorous end of the streetwear spectrum, showcasing established staple brands plus a range of specialist offerings

BEAUTY

Beauty Spot with over seven brands in THE CUBES

FOOD PREMIUM continuously seeks out the most pioneering collections, innovative concepts and latest lifestyle trends from all over the globe. By editing the portfolio very carefully every season, PREMIUM interprets the relevant trend themes in order to provide the industry with an inspiring and visionary overview of the advanced contemporary fashion market. G04

Coffee, panini, burger, currywurst, Bavarian weißwurst, maultaschen, burritos, Italian antipasti, baked potatoes, vegetarian bowls, vegan wraps & soups, hemp pizza, oysters, waffles with toppings, pancakes, frozen yogurt, juices and raw cakes, chocolate and ice cream 26.06.17 17:22

premiumexhibitions.com facebook.com/premiumberlin instagram.com/premiumberlin twitter.com/premiumberlin

SIOUX Moccasin handcrafting and refreshing Indian summer drinks 4 – 5 July, 10 am – 7 pm

//DELIRIOUS EYEWEAR C1-C 07 deliriouseyewear.com CECILIE COPENHAGEN

OGNX 20 min pre-lunch core work out: yoga for a strong core and a flat belly By Jelena Lieberberg 4 – 5 July, 1 pm – 1.20 pm

AEG #CAREFORCLOTHES Check out the latest model of the series9000, the ultimate protector for the most valuable designer clothes 4 – 6 July, all day Wardrobe

INTROPIA H7-B 03 intropia.com KARL LAGERFELD H5-C 07 karllagerfeld.com

LASALLE Soya to wear, anybody? You can eat it, drink it and now you can wear it! Let us show you how 4 – 5 July, 11 am – 5 pm PREMIUM X CREATIVE CARAVAN BY INSTINKTE Photographer Kai Stuht puts brands and visitors in the spotlight 4 July, 10 am – 7 pm

INA KESS H2-B 04 inakess.com

LAKRIDS BY JOHAN BÜLOW C2-D 05 lakrids.nu MAISON HÉROÏNE H5-B 16 maisonheroine.com

#LADC H3-B 11 ladc-paris.com ALCHEMY EQUIPMENT H3-E 19 alchemy-equipment.com

MOLESKINE H4-B 05 moleskine.com ROQA H1-B 14 roqa.com SA.AL & CO C1-A 01 saalskincare.com

PREMIUM X GALERIES LAFAYETTE PREMIUM Young Designers showcase 4 – 20 July, 10 am – 8 pm Galeries Lafayette Open to public

LAKRIDS BY JOHAN BÜLOW

SAM EDELMAN H1-A 14 samedelman.com

BARRACUDA H5-B 10 barracudashoes.it

SCOTCH & SODA H8-A 01 scotch-soda.com

CARNER BARCELONA C2-D 13 carnerbarcelona.com

TERESA HELBIG PARFUM C2-D 13 teresahelbig.com

CECILIE COPENHAGEN H7-A 17 ceciliecopenhagen.com DIESEL KH-D 00 diesel.com FLIP*FLOP H2-A 06 flip-flop.de HOMAND H4-C 02 homand.com

FLIP*FLOP

G05

SHOW & ORDER 4 – 6 JULY 2017

ADDRESS

AT KRAFTWERK BERLIN OPENING TIMES KRAFTWERK BERLIN Köpenicker Strasse 70 10179 Berlin

4 – 5 July, 10 am – 7 pm 6 July, 10 am – 5 pm

PORTFOLIO 180 brands 60 % international 60 % new entries

SEGMENTS Womenswear Footwear Accessories Interior Design Beauty

STREETWEAR

With a focus on a feminine approach, SHOW&ORDER AT KRAFTWERK BERLIN presents the female take on this season’s trend, combining streetwear pieces with statement jewellery and sneakers that makes the look complete

BEAUTY

14 plus brands in the Beauty Area on KRAFTWERK BERLIN’s top floor

The carefully chosen portfolio, consisting of womenswear, footwear and accessories, casts its magic by radiating femininity, sensuality and simplicity. The focus lies on translating global fashion trends into an overall feminine look. Staging various highlights, SHOW & ORDER AT KRAFTWERK BERLIN creates a vibrating, sensual and lasting customer experience. G06

FOOD

Sandwiches, salads, fresh juices, ice cream, cookies, vegan cakes & snacks

showandorder.com facebook.com/showandorder instagram.com/showandorder

15 LOOKS Trend shows celebrating diversity staged by Refinery29, Schwarzkopf and Inselberg Models 4 July, 11 am / 1 pm / 3 pm BEAUTY HACK BY SLEEK In partnership with Ykone A conference on social media and influencer marketing in the cosmetics industry 4 July, 3 pm – 5 pm HOMAGE TO GIANNI VERSACE Exhibition 4 – 6 July, 10 am – 7 pm Opening reception with the collector Andre Stefani present 4 July, 4 pm By invitation only

Enjoy Old Fashioneds mixed with Rom Zacapa – courtesy of Diageo

WHEADON SPA Wheadon’s Frauenzimmer Treats The Quick Peach Treatment – a skin work-out 4 – 6 July, 10 am – 7 pm CREATIVE CARAVAN BY INSTINKTE Individual style make-over inspired by the 80s and 90s 6 July, 12 pm – 4 pm Open to public

AN HOUR AND A SHOWER TF-C 17 anhourandashower.com ABSTRACT GF-B 14 am-abstract.it

MARTINENGHI TF-B 23 martinenghi.com

ANAKI PARIS GF-A 14 anakiparis.com ELIZABETH AND JAMES GF-B 04 elizabethandjames.us

MILA & JAMES GF-C 11 milaandjames.com

GESTALTEN TF-A 07 shop.gestalten.com

PARKA LONDON TF-B 18 parkalondon.com

MELLOW YELLOW TF-C 03 mellowyellow.com

PALMARIA MALLORCA TF-E 14 palmaria-mallorca.com

HAPPY HAUS GF-A 16 instagram.com/happyhaus_official JANTHEE BERLIN GF-A 12 jantheeberlin.com

PARKA LONDON

JOMA JEWELLERY GF-A 24 jomajewellery.com JUMPER1234 GF-B 13 jumper1234.com KAYSIAN GF-B 02 kaysian.com

PLIETS.H. GF-B 08 plietsh.com

KENNETH COLE TF-C 01 kennethcole.com LE BONNET AMSTERDAM GF-B 04 lebonnet.nl

SATYA JEWELRY GF-B 04 satyajewelry.com

LICHTJUWEL TF-E 15 lichtjuwel.com MALUO maluo.nl TF-E 07

TAPI -TAPI TF-C 20 tapi-tapi.com

MARJANA VON BERLEPSCH GF-B 49 marjanavonberlepsch.com

SKIN DESIGN LONDON TF-E 15 skindesignlondon.com

UND GRETEL TF-D 28 undgretel.com WILDTHINGS GF-A 13 wildthings-collectables.com G07

SEEK 4 – 6 JULY 2017

ADDRESS ARENA Eichenstrasse 4 12435 Berlin

OPENING TIMES 4 – 5 July, 10 am – 7 pm 6 July, 10 am – 5 pm

PORTFOLIO 250 brands 80 % international 37 % new brands

SEGMENTS Menswear Womenswear Footwear Accessories

STREETWEAR

SEEK highlights fashion-forward contemporary and independent brands, some of which have yet to be discovered by a mainstream audience. The show is a mixture of elevated streetwear and modern menswear, including standout names that are supplemented by small, niche products

FOOD

BBQ, salad bowls, handmade pasta, sandwiches, deli, pastries, fresh smoothies

Focusing on carefully profiling and defining style tribes, the SEEK portfolio reflects the zeitgeist. Shaped by subcultures, music, art and design, SEEK aims to emphasise autonomy, anti-trend sentiment, tradition and provenance, welcoming all those who retain their individuality by constantly reinventing themselves while still nurturing their roots. G08

seekexhibitions.com facebook.com/seekberlin instagram.com/seek_berlin

SUPER NATURAL POP-UP STORE Torstrasse near Rosenthaler Platz 4 – 8 July, 1 pm – 8 pm Open to public LEUCHTTURM1917 Give your calendar a personal touch – live embossing event 4 – 6 July, 10 am – 7 pm REFERENCE STUDIOS X 032C POOL PARTY 4 July, 6 pm – 10 pm Badeschiff By invitation only SEEK SUMMER GRILLZ Family & Friends BBQ 4 July, 7 pm – 2 am Oberhafenkantine By invitation only CREATIVE CARAVAN BY INSTINKTE Creative photo art by star photographer Kai Stuht 5 July, 10 am – 7 pm Open to public BRANDS ON A BUS Dopper x Seek x Creative Caravan by Instinkte Talks about Fashion & Sustainability 5 July, 10 am / 12 pm / 2 pm

BLUE DE GÊNES E-05 bluedegenes.dk

KAPPA KONTROLL H-01 kappakontroll.com

BURLINGTON A-10 burlington.de

KAWECO A-74 kaweco-pen.com

BY SIGNE D-26 bysigne.com

LEUCHTTURM B-34 leuchtturm.com

CHIPPEWA A-73 chippewaboots.com

LYLE AND SCOTT D-01 lyleandscott.com

EBBETS FIELD FLANNELS D-09 ebbets.com

MALIBU SANDALS A-56 malibusandals.com

ELLEN PEDERSEN D-16 ellenpedersen.eu

NILMANCE D-15 nilmance.com

FILSON D-08 filson.com

NOVESTA C-63 novesta.sk

H2O SPORTSWEAR A-47 h2o-sportswear.com HAIKURE C-29 haikure.it HALO H-01 newline.dk HAN KJØBENHAVN H-01 hankjobenhavn.com

RICHARDTMEJER H-01 richardtmejer.dk

HI-TEC H-01 hi-tec.com

SHINOLA D-07 shinola.com SUICOKE H-01 suicoke.com

PATTA X 24KILATES X SEEK X ASICS X ALPHA INDUSTRIES BBQ 5 July, 5 pm – 10 pm Escobar By invitation only KAPPA KONTROLL

BEER HERE 5 July, 7 pm – 10 pm Badeschiff Open to PREMIUM GROUP guests

SUICOKE

TANNER GOODS H-01 tannergoods.com UNIVERSAL WORKS C-64 universalworks.co.uk G09

BRIGHT 4 – 6 JULY 2017

ADDRESS ARENA Am Flutgraben 12435 Berlin

OPENING TIMES 4 – 5 July, 10 am – 7 pm 6 July, 10 am – 5 pm

PORTFOLIO 250 brands 80 % international 35 % new brands

SEGMENTS Street & Skate Outdoor Urban Hip Hop Accessories

STREETWEAR

At BRIGHT, visitors will be privy to a range of core skate brands that truly set the bar for streetwear in the early days, while the latest skateboarding collections from Levi’s Skateboarding Collection and New Balance Numeric bring us to the modern era. Nostalgic hip-hop labels like Pelle Pelle and Ecko Unltd. are returning to the spotlight with new collections

FOOD

Pulled pork sandwiches, spare ribs, smokehouse salad, baked beans and cornbread muffins

BRIGHT presents a variety of brands, the latest developments and lifestyle trends. By hosting a stunning selection of additional events all over Berlin, ranging from skateboarding to art and music, BRIGHT gathers the international boardsport community in one place. G10

brighttradeshow.com facebook.com/brighttradeshow instagram.com/brighttradeshow

RVCA – ANP X LOWDOWN Art exhibition – It’s a love thing 4 – 6 July, 10 am – 7 pm Waterfloor

RVCA

MISHKA NYC P5 shop.mishkanyc.com

FORBIDDEN SPOT GALLERY Grip Art – Group Art exhibition 4 – 6 July, 10 am – 7 pm Waterfloor

OPINEL B1 herbertz-messerclub.de

NIKITA PRESENTS SPACEGOTH Art exhibition 4–6 July, 10 am–7 pm Waterfloor TURBOKOLOR X SWANSKI Art exhibition 4 – 6 July, 10 am – 7 pm Waterfloor SMOKE ON THE WATER DC X Bright Opening Event & Skate Session, BBQ and Party 4 July, 6 pm – end Else (An den Treptowers 10, Berlin) VOLCOM BOAT Photo art exhibition, live band & BBQ 5 July, 6 pm – end Hoppetosse

MALOJA B7 maloja.de

POLER OUTDOOR STUFF B3 rough.de ASPHALT YACHT CLUB E1 asphaltyachtclub.com CLEPTOMANICX H1 cleptomanicx.com DANNER B8 danner.com SWISS BANK

ECKO UNLTD. T4 ecko.com FORVERT R2 forvert.com

RVCA S11 eu.rvca.com SUN HILL R4 skatebag.ru SWALLOWS & DAGGERS P4 instagram.com/swallowsndaggers/ VANS

FTC O9 ftcsf.com

SWISS BANK Q12 swissbankclothing.com

GARZINI Q1 garzini.com

THE QUIET LIFE O9 thequietlife.com

IRIEDAILY D2 iriedaily.de

VANS C3 vans.com

ISLE O9 isleskateboards.com

WKND O9 wkndbrand.com G11

#FASHIONTECH 5 JULY 2017

ADDRESS

KÜHLHAUS-BERLIN Luckenwalder Strasse 3 10963 Berlin

DURATION STAGE 10:30am–6pm

Keynotes by industry leaders from global business representatives to top designers through to international communications experts, followed by brand pitches by some of the world’s most promising start-ups

MASTERCLASSES

45-minute courses on topics such as smart data, creating the digital shopping experience and brand building

EXHIBITION

Presenting wearable designs, solutions and modern retail concepts by Deutsche Telekom, Jasna Rok, ElektroCouture, Nightingale, The Mill

Offering visitors a first-class programme that covers topics such as e-commerce and the future of retail, wearables and smart textiles, digital marketing and communication, #FASHIONTECH gathers fashion experts, industry insiders, start-ups, designers and global players to discuss potential approaches and opportunities at the intersection of fashion and technology. G12

fashiontech.berlin twitter.com/fashiontechber

START-UPS & ENTREPRENEURSHIP

#STAGE

16:00 Yael Kochman (CEO, Fash & Tech) Disruptive fashiontech trends in retail and Israeli start-ups at the centre of the revolution

KEYNOTES

16:15 Lihi Pinto Fryman (CMO & Co-founder, Syte – Visual Conception) Why this fashion search engine has finally got it right

10:30 Anita Tillmann (Managing Partner, PREMIUM GROUP) Ole Tillmann (Founder & CEO, Peak Creative Leadership) Welcome

16:25 Julius Henne (Co-founder, Mmooddeell) Ludwig Henne (Co-founder, Mmooddeell) The digital revolution in model booking: How this start-up is changing the talent industry

10:45 Sharmadean Reid (Founder, Wah Nails) curated by Sleek Lessons from London’s hottest indie brand on how to be “digital first”

16:35 Ayhan Yuruk (Founder and Managing Director, Showrooming – digital meets physical) How to make showrooming work for you – a guide to creating customer experience

11:10 Hywel Davies (Programme Director Fashion, Central Saint Martins) Melanie Ashley (Tutor, Fashion Communication, Central Saint Martins) curated by Sleek How the world’s leading fashion school is dealing with digital

16:45 Niclas Rohrwacher (CRO & Founder, Factory Berlin) Berlin, the start-up magnet: Will the city become the Silicon Valley of Europe?

11:35 Dr. Marc Schumacher (Managing Director, Liganova the brandretail company) From POS (point of sale) to POEX (point of experience) – a new retail paradigm 12:00 Anne Muhlethaler (Consultant for Christian Louboutin Group, AVM consulting) curated by Sleek Social channels & chatbots service reinvented 12:15 Thimo Schwenzfeier (Director of Marketing & Communication Textiles

17:00 Anita Tillmann (Managing Partner, PREMIUM GROUP) Ole Tillmann (Founder & CEO, Peak Creative Leadership) Closing remarks

#MASTERCLASSES

& Textile Technologies, Texpertise Network Messe Frankfurt)

Everything you need to know about smart fabrics 12:30 Antje Hundhausen (Vice President Brand Experience, Deutsche Telekom) Christian Bracht (CEO & Publisher, Sleek Magazine) Prof. Dr. Paul Lukowicz (German Research Center For Artificial Intelligence) Dr. Torsten Wingenter (Senior Director Digital Innovations, Lufthansa) AI meets fashion – introducing Telekom Fashion Fusion Challenge @lufthansa flying lab 13:00 Lunch break 14:00 David Fischer (Founder, Highsnobiety) An expert guide to storytelling in a digital age 14:25 Cloudy Zakrocki (Editor-in-Chief, Refinery29 Germany) Nora Beckershaus (Director of Operations, Refinery29 Germany) Anita Tillmann (Managing Partner, PREMIUM GROUP) Interview: How this U.S. leader in fashion content cracked the German market 14:40 Jonas Thaysen (Lead Creative Strategist,

10:45 Joanne Yulan Jong (Founder, Yulan Creative) Helping fashion businesses understand How to align creative and strategic vision and build a strong and resilient brand 12:00 Carl Kammerer (Business Development Manager, Edited) & Emma Hevezi (Retail Strategist, Edited) Fashion math: How to retail effectively using data 14:00 Ayhan Yuruk (Founder & Managing Director, Showrooming) Theresa Keller (Creative Strategist, Showrooming) Nora Kato (Omni-channel Expert, Showrooming) Nick Van Den Bichelaer (Producer & Digital Expert, Showrooming) From POS (point-of-sale) to POX (point-of-experience) 15:00 Jonas Thaysen (Lead Creative Strategist, CS Central Europe, Facebook) Anne Schneider (Client Solutions Manager, Facebook) How to win the stage on Facebook and Instagram for beauty & fashion 16:15 Jeanny Wang (Product Innovation Consultant) Thomas Lorenz (Director Digital & Business Development,

Creative Shop Central Europe, Facebook)

PREMIUM GROUP & Founder, PREMIUM DIGITAL)

How to drive business impact on Facebook: the mobile makeover

Co-create the future

14:55 Victoria Poole (Marketing Director, The Mill) Immersion & emotion in fashion 15:15 Jerome Cochet (Managing Director, Zalando Media Solutions) How to connect brands with consumers 15:30 Coffee break

#EXHIBITION By Facebook, Edited, Showrooming, Align G13

PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH 5 – 7 AUGUST 2017

ADDRESS

ZENITH HALL Lilienthalallee 29 80939 Munich

OPENING TIMES 5 – 6 August, 10 am – 7 pm 7 August, 10am – 5 pm

PORTFOLIO 250 brands 83 % international 35 % new brands

SEGMENTS

Menswear Womenswear Footwear Accessories Textile Trend Preview

SERVICES

Exhibitor catalogue Free coffee Healthy food corner Shuttle service

Following the international opening in Berlin, PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH, the pivotal sales platform presenting fashion, footwear and accessories, is the national flag for the season finale. In the showroom-like atmosphere of the ZENITH hall, PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH features a portfolio that comprises 60 % fashion and 40 % footwear and accessories brands, providing buyers with all the collections they need to put together a complete look following the current lifestyle trends. G14

In collaboration with Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH www.premiummunich.com

DAS CAPE MÄDCHEN

INA KESS G 21 inakess.com JACOB LEE F 23 jacoblee.london

MOA MASTERS OF ART

JEROME DREYFUSS F 23 jerome-dreyfuss.com LIV BERGEN A 02 livbergen.de MOA MASTERS OF ARTS B 14 moaconcept.com SITA MURT F 11 sitamurt.com

SITA MURT

A JOURNEY LONDON F 11 ajourneylondon.com ANOTHERSHOE D 04 anothershoe.net BETA STUDIOS A 02 betastudios.dk DAS CAPE MÄDCHEN G 22 dascapemaedchen.com DELICATE LOVE A 06 delicatelove.com G.H. BASS WEEJUNS A 16 ghbass-eu.com HAUS BY GOLDEN GOOSE D 23 goldengoosedeluxebrand.com G15

Net jeftich, satd‘r Dübel un verschwand end‘r Wand/ Brotkrümel end‘r Söck, hältd‘r schlimmsten Schweißfußdrüch / Wannd‘r Maulwurf op däm Daach krieht, littd‘r Hahn flaach vör Lachen /D‘r Hirsch springt opd‘r,Hirsch springt fän, Woröm nit, et hät Zick / CocaCola met Scheck, hebtd‘r Besteva ahn der Oma /Geschenk, Driss, Schürreskar - all es met SCHgeschrieben. Wann do e Facebook - Seite iggel, kanns do sem‘r nit ungerschrieve Schöpp esu voll,wannd‘r Job jenooch es / Unger ener Fichtenwurzelhörte ich ein fartartigen Dreß /D‘r Regenwurm eshuddele verpasst, weil hä hück feesch es. Wannhä end‘r Haver raschelt, määt der Mädd‘r Boorjlöcklich / Wannd‘r Bedeente singk Elvis, der Kuhschwingt dat Üdder räächziggich / Klappen Se nit,koppin, Hals / Wann Se möchten, krijje Se e ahnder Brust, Se han Jihhunger, krijje Se beide Brüste/ Wannd‘r Löv em Keller dut es, word‘r Aap widder flöcke / Wannd‘r Boord‘r Botter vergiftet, es se för der Schwiejermo / Wann jääle Bälle opwwwTennis spille, a Ll Reß müsse setze / Möd O F F I C E F R I N K E N com ben ich Höppedier,maach S E T D E Sming I G N Täsch och. Plasseere Se beide Ohren,domet ich nötzer schlofe kann / Wann ich dingAroma rieche, blo blömche ich en enem Koma / Wannder Kippe flaach wie Teller sein, wor der Rollwidder flöcke / Verschlipper Se dat fröhlicheTempod‘r, Hüter nit em Eck / Leever Koch, He fälltding kunst en dat loch / Wann do nit mieh weißt,machst do e Arbeitsgruppe / Off der Welt end‘rvergeblichen Täuschung ruftd‘r Wiese weised‘r, Jeck weise/ Wann dod‘r Dach blecke wells, muß do kicke End‘r Spejel / Wannd‘r Boor faule Eier kocht, kichertd‘rBoor wie a Reiher / Met enem Apatschen es keigutes Jebätsch / Dat Schwein setzt sich end‘rGefrierschrank des Boore a. Wann do rückwärts jäjeein Baum fährst, weed ding Koffer schrumpe / APinguin, Wä weiß nötzer, kühlt seinen Boden met Ies/ ich ben fruh, dann mi Fott passt akkurat zedinge Toilette / Wannd‘r Sklave vun Mastiffs gejagt weed, muß hä sich öm sie Levve joggen. WannWeihnachten Stürme un Schnee, Silvester Es nit fänwäch /D‘r Va furzt, der Pänz lachen, esu kann mer billiges Verjnöje maache / Hück es nit jede Dach, ich com Ich han noch kein Froch

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

ESSENTIEL ANTWERP

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

Vibrant designs and continuous growth make Essentiel Antwerp stand out in the contemporary category In 1999, young couple Esfan Eghtessadi and Nicole Cadine began selling colourful basics out of their flat-turned-showroom. This humble beginning blossomed into Essentiel Antwerp, a Belgian brand known for its bright ready-to-wear pieces. Besides presenting their Spring / Summer collections at PREMIUM, they are continuing their tradition of rapid growth in Europe and beyond. “We are strongly developing our retail network within France, The Netherlands, Spain and Germany as well as expanding our wholesale business here in Europe, but also in Japan, China and CIS countries,” explains Essentiel Antwerp’s Communcation Director Ysaline Grangé. The brand’s S / S 2018 men’s collection was inspired by a trip to LA, drawing influence from the city’s surf and skate culture. With an emphasis on effortless and relaxed styles, this collection features oversized garments and vibrant,

ESSENTIEL ANTWERP 28

hand-painted prints that work in contrast with more muted palettes of washed-out blue, grey and khaki. Woman’s Pre-Spring 2018 takes a militaristic approach, influenced by fashions of the late 40s and the grassroots urgency in today’s political climate. Key items include the slouchy military jacket, breezy striped lace skirt and the oversized, military-inspired chunky cardigan. As with the men’s S / S 2018 collection, khaki makes an appearance in the colour palette along with red and blue – in sky and navy tones. While much of the eye-catching detailing comes from cross-stitched embroidery, Essentiel’s signature sparkle can be seen on some pieces in the form of removable sequined grosgrain bows. What else is happening at this Belgian brand in 2018? According to Ysaline Grangé, we can expect some playful pop culture references: “We will launch a capsule collection with Peanuts.”

PREMIUM H7-G 03 essentiel-antwerp.com

Kick back with the retro stylings of The Hundreds Founded in Los Angeles by friends Bobby Kim and Ben Shenassafar, The Hundreds is a global streetwear brand epitomising the easy-going Californian look. Growing steadily over the years from a start-up launched in 2003 selling a line of screen-printed t-shirts, the premium streetwear brand now offers a comprehensive collection of menswear apparel inspired by their surrounding punk, skateboarding, hip-hop and surf subcultures. The brand is now available in over 400 locations worldwide and operates two stand-alone stores in LA and San Francisco. The Hundreds’ S / S 2018 “Cut & Sew” collection, presented at BRIGHT, brings their rework of 90s California cool and 50s and 60s menswear to Europe. “It is made up of our favourite Californian retro styles in modern versions using sophisticated lightweight materials, unrestricted baggy fits and unexpected colour combinations,” explains Erica Hernandez, the

THE HUNDREDS

collection’s lead designer. Inspired by the oversized streetwear look, styles include laid-back chinos made from cotton sanded twill and houndstooth baggy shorts that can be paired with the matching button-up jacket for a relaxed, tailored look. The Hundreds’ signature bold graphics can be seen on several pieces this season, with the brand’s “Rich” and “Rose” logos embroidered onto polos and across the back of the Glazer club jacket. The Hundreds’ S / S 2018 collection stands out for its attention to fabrics including the mini houndstooth, the 50s mid-weight hickory stripe and the classic lightweight cotton plaid flannel. It’s all set off with a colour palette of khaki classics and bold 90s colour blocking. Erica Hernandez says, “While we continue to bring new renditions of heritage sportswear, this season we got experimental by repurposing classic fabrications into unconventional silhouettes to create new progressive wardrobe staples.”

BRIGHT N7 thehundreds.com 29

C.P. Company races past the competition with their classic jackets Internationally recognised as the godfather of urban sportswear, Italian designer Massimo Osti and his brand C.P. Company have had a permanent effect on how modern men dress. Founded in 1975, the menswear company first revved up its engines for the fashion world with the iconic Goggle Jacket, originally designed for Italy’s Mille Miglia car race. Today the brand is continuing to create avant-garde interpretations of functional classics with an S / S 2018 collection that puts a high value on tradition with efficient, performance-engineered pieces. The brand’s speciality is always its outerwear, and this season is no different. This collection includes three new versions of the classic Goggle Jacket, which each now sport the original watch-viewer lens on the left cuff. Made from garment-dyed nylon, the “Nycra” is heavily influenced by active sports and makes full use of the fabric that has come to be synonymous

C.P. COMPANY 30

with C.P. Company. Next up in the standing start, the “Nyfoil” Goggle Jacket features an ultra-light, high-shine silver nylon, which is engineered to disperse heat evenly throughout the body. The final reinvention of the classic is the 50.3 Goggle Jacket, which bears the closest resemblance to the original. “The outer fabric looks like the same 50 Fili featured on the original Mille Miglia Goggle Jackets from the mid-80s,” says Lorenzo Osti, C.P. Company’s Head of Marketing in the EU. “But it has now evolved into a performance-driven, three-layer one with a waterproof membrane bonded to the external 50 Fili and an ultra fine nylon mesh which protects the membrane from inside abrasion.” The entire S / S 2018 collection will be elevated with new technical fabrics, shapes, and dying and tailoring techniques. And, as always with C.P. Company’s timeless styles, the jackets are just the first lap for a collection that makes a full circuit of contemporary menswear.

PREMIUM H3-E 14 cpcompany.com

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

Kenneth Cole’s new collection for the urban jungle comes with its own microclimate Created for determined individuals who fearlessly follow their dreams, Kenneth Cole’s modern, functional and versatile footwear collections make choosing what to put on your feet an effortless decision. “Getting dressed doesn’t have to be hard,” the designer says. He strongly believes footwear should be easy to wear and empower the wearer while instilling a sense of confidence. This is the idea behind the brand’s “Courageous Class” campaign, in which New Yorkers tell unique stories of their incredible strength and self-confidence. Inspired by these tales, Kenneth Cole introduces its S / S 2018 footwear collection for men and women. Styles include a selection of classic, city-friendly designs in a wide

KENNETH COLE

variety of colours and fabrics for the fashion-forward, the travel-smart and the tech-savvy. Many of these shoes feature the recently launched Techni-Cole 37.5 technology, a sport performance fabric with style. This material is designed to pull moisture away from the feet to keep the wearer dry and cool, while simultaneously retaining infrared energy when it’s cold to keep the foot warm. All in all, it’s the perfect microclimate comfort system for your foot and just one part of the brand’s mission to create a city-ready look – an ‘urban uniform’: “It empowers those who wear it, offering them security and versatility in the face of the unknown. Never sacrificing style for functionality, the urban uniform is intelligently beautiful,” concludes Kenneth Cole.

SHOW & ORDER TF-C01 kennethcole.com 31

PREMIUM GROUP MAGAZINE

All-American brand Filson stands the test of time just as well in the city as it does in the wild

The world is a very different place than it was in 1897 – it’s hard to believe that anything has stayed the same. Seattlebased brand Filson have been running since then, and one thing they’ve learned for sure is that any adventurer needs the right tools. A stylish explorer needs travelling bags that hold everything for a trip in or out of the city, with enough pockets to keep their valuables secure and dry. Most of all, these intrepid adventurers want their luggage to be durable and reliable – no one needs a broken zip halfway up a mountain, or in the middle of a crowded traffic intersection. Filson designs its bags, outdoor cases and leather goods to the highest ergonomic standards, and with over a century of tradition behind them, they know what they’re doing: these rugged accessories are built to last. Filson want to enable their customers to live just like they do in the Pacific Northwest:

FILSON 32

fiercely independent, at one with the environment and ready to go at a moment’s notice. Their S / S 2018 collection features a palette of dark mossy tones and classic tan that are reminiscent of “Cascadia” (as the West Coast’s rolling mountains and gushing waterfalls are known). Soft, supple leather sits alongside the brand’s signature rugged twill. As for what goes inside – these heavy-duty materials and endurance-tested construction techniques are ready to hold the dearest of valuables. Cards can be kept handy in a neat holder, and a tablet can be slipped into a pliable, brass-zipped leather pouch while their owner scales mountains or hikes across ravines. Filson may not have set out designing for credit cards and smartphones in 1897, but they still knew that a journey into any wilderness requires the highest quality products.

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Do good and look the part – S’well, TOMS and Anker let their customers feel better about themselves in more than just one way S’WELL

TOMS

e all know that a new dress can change your life, but thanks to a continued burst of social consumerism fashion can also improve lives the world over, making fashion more sustainable for everyone. For S / S 2018, PREMIUM is hosting a range of socially-conscious brands that touch hearts as well as minds, from established international names to local efforts. S’well is one of the names representing this new wave of social entrepreneurs at PREMIUM. Their gorgeous water bottles do as much for their carrier’s cool factor as they do for the planet. The pro-grade stainless steel comes in a vast range of colours and patterns that shimmer and sparkle: think metallic ombré or chic white marble. Using a stylish S’well bottle means fewer harmful plastic bottles, reducing single-use plastic consumption worldwide, plus the bottles are BPA-free, non-toxic and non-leaching, making them super eco-friendly.

“buy one, give one” to scale. They have now extended their good work to more than 70 countries. Founder Blake M ycoskie says: “More than revenue, we are celebrating impact as our guiding achievement. Not just in our giving, but in how we’re transforming the business conversation about making a difference in people’s lives and our responsibility to invest in people.” For S / S 2018, TOMS is offering a line of craft-adorned slip-ons and espadrilles in dusky sunset hues that will please both regular fans and newcomers to the “buy one, give one” philosophy. Floral embroidery and woven leather details show an easygoing attitude to changing the world, one step at a time.

CEO Sarah Kauss has turned S’well into the fastest-growing woman-owned company in the US, and is now excited about bringing her eco-conscious wares to the Hauptstadt: “Germany is a natural fit for S’well, having a reputation for creating and appreciating quality design. Plus, there is an amazing awareness across the country about minimising consumption of single-use plastic and maintaining an eco-friendly lifestyle. Together, these make Germany an ideal market for us.”

Another company at PREMIUM dedicated to bringing its customers that feel-good charity feeling is Anker, which was created in response to the devastating earthquake in Nepal in 2015. Womenswear buyer Mirela Stanoiu created these delicate bracelets with the actor Ralf Bauer, who has been campaigning for change in the Tibetan region for more than 20 years. “The anchor symbolises solidarity with the Tibetans and should remind the person wearing it of the good act,” Staniou says. But it’s about more than the nautical charm that hang on this pretty jewellery: 100 percent of proceeds go to supporting Tibetan refugees and orphans through school and monastery programmes. Topping up their wardrobe feels so much better when customers can feel proud of where their money is going.

One of the first brands to put social conscience back into shopping is of course TOMS, which brought the principle

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Learn all about how technology drives the fashion world at PREMIUM’s #FASHIONTECH event

Always evolving, ever-changing – the business of fashion never ceases to challenge. From virtual reality to artificial intelligence, the possibilities that technology brings to everyone involved are manifold. This is where #fashiontech comes in: all-new and all-encompassing, it’s the event to attend for seasoned insiders and creative visionaries alike. 40

#FASHIONTECH

Instead of tuning into virtual value, #FASHIONTECH focuses on something tangible: what is technology worth to businesses? Everyone is invited to find out on 5th July at PREMIUM, where industry leaders will offer insights into the soft spot between design and technology. Covering the full range of ideas on the topic, the event takes place in several arenas: the #stage, the PREMIUM #exhibition area and the all new #masterclasses. Moderated by Ole Tillmann, the #stage’s keynotes on the Kühlhaus 5th floor deal with today’s hot topics: wearables and smart textiles; e-commerce and retail technology; and digital marketing and communication. With an excellent roster of speakers at the top of their game, the talks focus on the stories behind these high-flying individual cases. Expect how-tos by David Fischer (Highsnobiety), Sharmadean Reid (Wah Nails), Christian Bracht (Sleek magazine), Cloudy Zakrocki (Refinery29 Germany), Hywel Davies (Central Saint Martins), Marc Schuhmacher (Liganova: The Brand Retail Company) and others. Meanwhile, Zalando and Messe Frankfurt will host panels that delve deeply into other aspects of the industry. In the afternoon, some of the world’s most promising start-ups take the stage. Each will present a brand pitch, followed by a keynote from N iclas Rohrwacher, the founder and CRO of tech-hub Factory Berlin.

It’s all well and good talking the talk, but can you walk the walk? Professionals are invited to the #exhibition on the 4th floor, to discover innovative retail concepts and muchhyped wearables by Deutsche Telekom, Jasna Rok and ElektroCouture, as well as Nightingale and The Mill. Adding context to this exhibition are the 45-minute #masterclasses by some of the industry’s biggest names. Insight comes courtesy of Facebook and The Edited among others, who will be presenting their hard-won learnings on topics such as smart data, creating a digital shopping experience and brand building. Since its inception, #FASHIONTECH has evolved into one of the PREMIUM GROUP’s ‘must-attend’ events, and now everyone interested in the future of fashion – global players, buyers, start-ups, influencers, marketers and journalists – counts on gathering valuable insights here. “How will virtual reality and artificial intelligence affect my business? How can I boost sales through image recognition technologies? What about smart textiles? And how can I merge my brick-andmortar shop with the digital marketplace?” If you’re trying to answer any of these questions, you’ll want to get your tablet ready to make notes at #FASHIONTECH. For full programme please see guide pages G12 (#FASHIONTECH) 41

COMMUNITY

W E ARE A FMI LY

BRIGHT and SEEK show their dedication to community spirit with a range of events and a pop-up shop that is open to the public

trade show’s raison d’être is for brands to present themselves to retailers so that they can stock their shops with the newest ware for the season to come. And while this is still the case for the majority of trade shows, the changing nature of some of fashion’s ‘feeder-cultures’ disrupts some previously B2B-only events. This especially holds true for those branches of fashion that are closely connected to youth subcultures. Any observer who’s been following the streetwear tribes and skateboarding cliques in the last decade can attest to what marketers call the “rise of the prosumer”. The internet and various 42

social media applications have empowered young consumers in such a way that they are no longer seen as only the recipients of a brand’s messages and products, but also as active creators of the ever-so-important content that is circulated around a brand. Paired with these cultures’ ingrained DIY spirit, we are now witnessing an overturning of the gatekeeper principle: fashion professionals – designers, buyers, editors – find themselves next to Instagrammers, sneakerheads, streetstyle stars and hangers-on. With literally everything and everyone just a scroll and swipe away, they are all engaging in the conversation. In doing so they are building what every brand secretly hopes for: a community.

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It is no surprise then that the PREMIUM GROUP’s SEEK and BRIGHT fairs are at the forefront of incorporating this spirit. In fact, both offer a variety of events that are catering to the community as a whole. One that will be most appealing to everyone, including non-professionals, is SEEK’s SUPER NATURAL POP-UP SHOP. This shop is breaking down barriers by giving everyone equal access to a curated selection of the best in fashion, food and lifestyle. From 4th to 8th July everyone is invited to ‘pop in’ and discover all-white products from Alpha Industries, Dad’s Cap, ellesse, Jason Markk, Native Union, New Black, Haikure and Suicoke – just to name a few. Naturally the communal spirit is best experienced at Arena Berlin, the site of BRIGHT and SEEK. Both fairs are making sure to keep it in the family – and to entertain their

kin – simply because the organisers and staff are part of their respective tribes themselves. At BRIGHT, visitors can enjoy art shows featuring artists such as Mark Oblow and Charles Collett, uber-brand The Hundreds will present its founder’s documentary about streetwear while the opening BBQ double-functions as a skate session. SEEK’s various on-site events prove to be an equal spectacle – from sneaker cleaning sessions with Jason Markk to its already much-hyped pool party in conjunction with Reference Studios. All this attests to the fact that BRIGHT and SEEK have become pillars of their communities – and as those communities evolve, so do the fairs. For more details please see guide pages G08 (SEEK) and G10 (BRIGHT)

DAD'S CAP HAIKURE

SUPER NATURAL POP-UP STORE Torstrasse near Rosenthaler Platz 4 – 8 July, 1 pm – 8 pm

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ILLUSTRATOR: Mykhailo Ponomarenko, DESIGNER: Chroma

The time has come: trends and fashion are loosening themselves from the rigid corset of seasonal thinking. Their replacement? An era of creative freedom and originality. In this brave new world, tomorrow’s fashion arises from crafts, high-tech and nature, with gender-neutral, ageless and sustainable approaches being key. Geographical boundaries dissolve – the street is no longer just a catwalk, but also a forum for debate. Here, our textile partners MUNICH FABRIC START present their fabrics and fashion forecast for A / W 2018 / 19.

FUTURISTS FUNCTIONAL FUTURISTIC ECOLOGICAL URBAN

ART: Bernadine Walrecht, DESIGNER: R13

PHOTO: Snøhetta, DESIGNER: Lacoste

SENSUAL BODY-CONSCIOUS SOFT VOLUMINOUS EMPATHETIC

OFFLINE CRAFTSY OFFLINE THOUGHTFUL NATURE-CONSCIOUS

DESIGNER: Christian Siriano, ART: Zoe Buckman

PHOTO: Opening Ceremony

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ART: Johanna Goodman, DESIGNER: Christopher Kane

DESIGNER: Songzio, PHOTO: Dedar, DESIGNER: Daks

DESIGN FETISHIST DYSFUNCTIONAL DECONSTRUCTED RANDOM SURPRISING

BOHEMIAN TRAPPERS DANDY-LIKE POETIC RICH TRADITIONAL

DESIGNER: Max Mara, PHOTO: Lefroy Brooks, PHOTO: Drome

PHOTO: Gerd Ludwig, DESIGNER: Balenciaga

SIMPLICITY MINIMALIST COMFORTABLE OVERSIZED NEO-CLASSICAL

TWIN PEAKS MYSTICAL TRADITIONAL SUBTLE PATTERNED

DESIGNER: Walter Van Beirendonk, ART: Levi Magiera

DESIGNER: Sacai, PHOTO: The Sartorialist

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TALENTS

PREMIUM GROUP is helping young fashion talents to become the next big thing

n fashion, as in so many fields, creativity is a blessing. The innovative spark of a sought-after talent can make the difference between a perfectly functional design and a unique, standout piece that sells out in seconds. For this, young fashion talents who have the creative chops to really push the designs of the future need to take note of financial and business considerations that will really make them succeed. All that creativity needs to work within a structure that means it reaches the people who will fall in love with it, the customer. The PREMIUM GROUP is investing heavily in these success stories of tomorrow, encouraging young brands towards becoming viable businesses. The group supports promising fashion designers through its four major platforms, adding aspiring brands to the portfolios of PREMIUM, SEEK, BRIGHT and SHOW & ORDER AT KRAFTWERK BERLIN. And this approach benefits everyone: young brands still getting off the ground get the chance to grow, while retailers are offered varied and fresh collections, giving them the most innovative range of products to choose from. Managing Partner at The PREMIUM GROUP, Anita Tillmann, points out these mutual benefits to the whole supply chain, and aims to “give young entrepreneurs a stage that they can use to present their brand successfully to retailers”. This includes attractively priced stands and heavy promotion. As well as offering young brands the opportunity to exhibit alongside the industry’s big players at the four trade shows, the PREMIUM fair has also selected four labels for its PREMIUM Young Designers Award. The current award holder in the Activewear category, Regina Polanco of Pyrates, says, “This award symbolises a big step forward on the bumpy road towards

market acceptance. It raises awareness of our project and inspires recognition.” Polanco’s small label, which concentrates on the synergy between fashion, nature and technology, is pioneering smart fabrics that heal and soothe the body. Meanwhile, current winner of the Womenswear award, Estonian-born Central Saint Martins graduate Roberta Einer creates distinctive, unorthodox designs – inspired in part by the fashion houses she previously worked in. Einer’s fellow Londoner Ejing Zhang, who came top in the Accessories segment, hopes that her award will “bring her greater brand awareness” and that her ornate experimentations will become better recognised in the German market. Elsewhere, Dima Leu’s tailored sportswear took home the Menswear prize for his “Sport Suits” project, exploring personal identities in fashion by bridging the gap between suits and tracksuits. More support for entrepreneurs comes from the Fashion Council Germany, who connect emerging designers with retailers and guide them through the various pitfalls for young businesses. Its current mentees Boulezar, Tim Labenda, William Fan, Horror Vacui, Benu Berlin, Philomena Zanetti, Marina Hoermanseder and Nobi Talai will each present two looks in an installation at PREMIUM in Hall 4 – together with two additional looks by Lisa Lang and her ElektroCouture label. After all, it is a win-win for everyone involved when fashion start-ups become sustainable businesses, as Anita Tillmann concludes: “Investing in young designers means investing in the industry.” PYRATES, PREMIUM, H2-B 01 ROBERTA EINER, PREMIUM, H7-D 05 EJING ZHANG, PREMIUM, C1-B 01 DIMA LEU, PREMIUM, H4-A 07

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Er entwarf Kleider, in denen Frauen Weltruhm erlangten, er kreierte Looks, die in die Modegeschichte eingingen – der legendäre Designer Gianni Versace wird zum 20. Todestag mit einer Hommage in Berlin geehrt.

By Berit Grosswendt / Room 26

EXHIBITION

He designed clothes that propelled women to worldwide fame and created looks that have gone down in fashion h istory – on the 20th anniversary of his death, the legendary designer Gianni Versace is being honoured with a homage in Berlin, taken from the personal collection of one of his biggest fans. A pink blazer with sweeping shoulder pads, an eye-wateringly bright suit with sparkling gemstones, a cocktail dress with a deep slit and safety pins just like the one that launched Liz Hurley to the status of It-girl ... These pieces all form part of an extensive exhibition of Versace designs that will be on display during the SHOW & ORDER AT KRAFTWERK fashion trade show. These rare pieces have been brought together from the personal collection of Brazilian artist Alexandre Stefani, whose passion for the Italian brand began in the 90s. His collection currently contains over 500 pieces: silk blouses, shirts, k imonos, suits, corsets, leather jackets, jewellery and bags from Gianni Versace’s initial efforts in the early 80s up to his last c ollection

in 1997. “Versace influenced the fashion world unlike anyone else. He used paradox to surprise, brought opposites together and created a look that is bang on trend again today,” says Alexandre Stefani. The Berlin exhibition is a homage to one of the most influential designers of his time, who had the inspired instinct for creating a provocative fashion fusion of art, pop and sex appeal. Versace lived an excessive lifestyle until he was shot dead in Miami Beach on 15 July 1997. His death was a tragedy. In contrast to the somewhat restrained style of Giorgio Armani or the ultra-elegant look espoused by Valentino, the creations of this Italian designer added some shocking spice to the mix. He sent his models out in sharply-defined silhouettes, strong colours and jarring patterns, creating unforgettable paradigms of sexy, powerful women that were just as extravagant as the trademark of the Versace brand empire: the head of Medusa. But why is the exhibition being held in Berlin? Alongside all his successes and excesses, Versace had a very special relationship with Germany. When he was still a young, unknown designer, he was discovered by Düsseldorf retailer Albert Eickhoff, who organised the first ever Versace show in Lippstadt in 1978. Collaborative ventures – such as one with traditional German firm Rosenthal – later added to Versace’s global fame. It’s no wonder that, in 1994, the superstar designer was keen to personally open an exhibition featuring his designs in Berlin’s Kunstgewerbemuseum. The 2017 homage echoes this retrospective, and will run during Berlin Fashion Week, keeping the connection strong today in the best way possible: through the beauty of his clothes. A TRIBUTE TO GIANNI VERSACE Show & Order at Kraftwerk, top floor, 4 – 6 July, 10 am – 7 pm Opening reception with collector Andre Stefani present 4 July 2017, 4 pm, by invitation only 49

Photo: Gregor Hohenberg

INTERVIEW

The Berlin gallery king has teamed up with David Mallon to create a line of forget-me-not pieces

By Josie Thaddeus-Johns

Johann König is one of Berlin’s best-known gallerists, with a roster of some of Berlin’s most exciting talents. Having recently moved his exhibition space to the magnificent Brutalist church at St. Agnes, he has also founded the avant-garde brand König Souvenir, with D avid M allon as its Creative Director and Partner. PREMIUM spoke to König about their collection of one-off objects that are all about remembering. Why did you decide to start the König Souvenir line? When we opened the St. Agnes church, the attention we received changed. Now we have thousands of visitors coming to see our exhibitions who aren’t able to collect art at this point. David Mallon and I wanted to develop something that gives our audience a chance to participate in what we’re doing. It’s not only fashion, it always depends – it could be anything. But it’s always supposed to be about memory. The first piece you’re selling is a hoodie inspired by the EU flag. Where did this idea come from? We had a big installation on the gallery façade, which was about Europe. We thought: how can you

express something or show your opinion through apparel? The stars on the EUnify Hoodie represent a broken circle and one star is missing, which is printed on the other side – this represents Great Britain. What’s next for König Souvenir? Our next project is going to be something which allows you to express your sexual orientation. I recognise that gay people or queer people suffer discrimination, and so the next souvenir will be about showing your sexuality with pride. Do you think there is a strong connection between fashion and art? There’s a lot of influence going both ways, but they both relate to the self as an expression of your personality. That’s definitely the case when you collect art and show it. Also, you can change the world through both – it’s not always possible but you can at least try! The EUnify Hoodie is available at koenigsouvenir.com

4 – 6 JULY 2017 BERLIN

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CURATED TO INSPIRE w w w . p r e m i u m g r o u p . b e r l i n