PRESS The Fashion - Winter 2013/14

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vol.3/iss.2/winter

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Editor’s letter

T

photo: Alyssa Beltempo

his edtion I’m inspired by the idea “broken.” Not so much in the literal sense of something physical breaking. It’s more about the way things can fall apart and come back together. Maybe it comes back together a bit differently, it may seem like an ending but really wraps back around to show you a beginning. Perhaps when something breaks or falls apart, it’s for a reason? I like to believe that everything happens for a reason as cliche as that may read. While getting prepared for this issue in the Fall, I spent my time between Ottawa, Toronto and California. I find inspiration is always around when travelling, I’m not sure if it is the change in scenery but, I can tell you that everytime I travel it’s almost like a flood gate opens, suddenly my mind is filled with ideas. I’ve been inspired by so many different things this year. Each issue I strive to bring something different and unique to the pages, opposed to trying to find a staple formula and I suppose constantly searching for new inspirations and experiences could be the key. Speaking of inspiration, our cover. To be more specific, the talented young lady on our cover, Laura Kell. Kell was my first Muse, the first model I ever met that inspired me to create. I remember her first test shoot, it was the fourth or fifth shoot in my career as a (learning) fashion stylist back when I was about twenty-two. I met with the photographer and then Kell arrived, she shook my hand, “Hi Christopher, great to meet you.” I was so caught by her unique beauty and presence, I was almost star struck by this girl who hadn’t even been in front of a camera yet. As Kell prepped for the shoot, I went to the photographer and said, “this girl is incredible, she’s not going to stick around Canada for long I bet.” Kell and I worked together on a few different editorial jobs and every time I worked with her, she amazed me. As our careers blossomed Kell and I kept in touch over the years. Rarely in the country, Kell and I didn’t get many more opportunities to work together, so I jumped on the first chance I had to work with her now and I couldn’t be happier with the result. What I loved most about the experience was the “full circle” aspect of it all. When we first worked together, we were both starting our portfolios and here we are a few years later, working together again. I would say my favourite aspect of this whole business is finding those like minded individuals who love to create. Yes, of course we all need to make a living out of this, however, some can get a bit too focused on the commerce aspect. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t blame them, but at the same time I can’t imagine losing sight of the creative. I find the happiest of us in the business are those who have an even balance of both, they get the commercial work to pay the bills but also keep their eye out for projects that challenge them to sell with a different perspective. One of the best pieces of advice a photographer ever gave me was on perspective. He said, “yes, of course, they’re pants, BUT, use them in a way that’s not so typical, make the pants a hat, use the shirt to make an accessory. Don’t always look at them for how you think they should be used.” A simple piece of advice yes, but those words changed my life. I want to close by saying in 2013, I have met some of the most genuine, creative and ambitious people. I truly couldn’t be happier and I can’t wait to see what the new year holds for us all. See you in 2014!

- Christopher Massardo Editor christopher@pressthefashionmagazine.com

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editor

Christopher massardo

assistant Editor amber watKins

copy editor M. francis

contributing editor shawna perry

Advertising & pr inquiries grace mayele

gracepr@pressthefashionmagazine.com

contributors

frank begin, colin gaudet, magdalena m, irem harnak, melody iafelice, robert weir, sienna vittoria, joanna plisko, delia lupan, katia pershin, jennifer dickinson, alyssa beltempo, mark john tripp, Brennen demelo, marquis montes, olivier Doivin-Carrier, vincent lee, Vanessa mills, jade ward, stephanie daon park

info@pressthefashionmagazine.com www.pressthefashionmagazine.com www.facebook.com/pressthefashion twitter @PRESSTheFashion PRESS The Fashion is an independently owned and operated magazine in Ottawa, Canada. PRESS The Fashion can in no way be duplicated or reproduced without written permission directly from the magazine’s editor. Copyright Š2011-2013 PRESS The Fashion ISSN 1925-9042

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Th e ‘ PRESS - t ig i o u s ’

A little bit more about some of our talented contributors.

Frank Begin Begin once again lends his talented eye to capture our cover shot. With such a level of integrity to his work, it’s no wonder we work with him time and time again. Constantly travelling, Begin offers a worldy perspective and knowledge on set when capturing fashion images.

Melody Iafelice The always incredible Melody Iafelice lends her talented hands to the beauty of our cover. A true professional, Iafelice always takes the time to understand her client and the end vision for any project. Based in Ottawa, Iafelice works with many international brands and is a regular beauty expert for the top television channels in the city.

Laura Kell Editorial sensation Laura Kell typically spends her time bouncing between London, Shanghai, Seoul and many other international fashion markets. Discovered in Ottawa while attending Carleton University, Kell’s career quickly took off appearing in nearly every major fashion magazine in the country. Also achieving international success Kell has appeared in W, Zink and many more.

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Colin Gaudet Once Ottawa based, Gaudet has now made the move to Toronto. With a focus on his craft, Gaudet spent his summer in Milano further developing his eye as a photographer. With his editiorial eye and mind growing we’re always looking forward to seeing this artist’s work evolve.

Sienna Vittoria A young and talented writer and fashion stylist on the rise, you can find Vittoria’s work in many publications in Canada. With a passion for fashion, you can sense the love of the fashion world in her writing and we can’t wait to see more from her!

Joanna Plisko This talented fashion stylist is no stranger to the PRESS family. Plisko’s very style savvy eye finds a way of merging high fashion and ready to wear throughout her work. Plisko’s work has appeared in several fashion publications and has worked with a diverse range of clients.


CONTENTS. The text 20 . feature - poised to be envied 22 . designer feature - brit wacher 46 . designer feature - Q&A with johnny yiu

The Images 12 . bye, baby by magdalena m 24 . despair by frank begin 36 . let’s accessorize 38 . with you by irem harnak 48 . shift by colin gaudet

The runways 34 . ottawa fashion week s/s 2014 47 . the shows (toronto) s/s 2014

on the cover

Photographer Frank Begin Fashion Styling & Direction Christopher Massardo Makeup, Hair & Nails Melody Iafelice Model Laura Kell with Next Models Canada

rings Osolee necklace Originals by Andrea dress Tony Bowls at Poised Boutique bangle ALDO

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top & skirt Hilary MacMillan headpiece David Dunkley Fine Millinery

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Bye, baby

Magdalena M Joanna Plisko makeup, hair & nails Delia Lupan with Judy Inc. model Latonya with Elite Model Management

photographer

fashion stylist

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dress Masha necklace Belle Boutique hat David Dunkley Fine Millinery

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dress VAWK earrings Belle Boutique shoes Jessica Simpson 15


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top Lucian Matis pants Hilary MacMillan necklace Haati Chai headpiece Marie Copps


dress Ryan Joelson jacket Hilary MacMillan necklace Laborde Designs

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lu x u ry d ow n w e a r h a n dm a de i n c a na da

For a list of fine retailers, visit

w w w. joh n n y y i u . c om


Feature

“To create a space where

her customers can feel unique and imaginative with their wardrobe, Poulios makes a point to travel extensively to find exclusive items for her two boutiques.�

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f eat u re

poised to be envied words by Amber Watkins

photo by Katia Pershin www.katiapershinphotography.com

A

s a young woman, Martha Poulios knew her passion was helping others. She envisioned a career in law enforcement, believing that she was destined for the police force where she could make a difference in her community. She never dreamed she would eventually be the owner of two prestigious fashion boutiques on what is inarguably the ritziest block in Ottawa. After many years of working in fashion retail and a degree in Marketing and Management, Poulios realized that she had unintentionally discovered a different avenue in which she could help others and make a positive impact on others, one customer at a time. Building on her years of experience, Martha eventually made the fateful decision to take what she had learned and do it alone as an entrepreneur. She opened Poised in 2006 on Sussex Avenue to great acclaim. Four years later, Envied was unwrapped mere blocks away, on the same stylish strip. She had done the impossible: built two successful boutiques in a span of less than 5 years, and on the most expensive street in the capital.

Poulios owes her accomplishments to her vivacious and eclectic clientele, from women in their late twenties to mid sixties - a mother-daughter shop where a range of styles and sizes can be found. Undeniably, Poised and Envied both cater to mature women who are not ready to retire into their flat shoes, but who are also notoriously set in their ways, not least in their style. To be able to coax them out of their fashion rut, and to help them to see options beyond their closet staples, is an initiative that requires extreme sensitivity and a natural understanding of psychology. Poulios and her loyal employees assist the women who frequent the boutiques to step outside of their comfort zones and convince them that they can wear something that perhaps they did not imagine themselves in. Poulios’ preferred customer is a woman who is not afraid to wear different styles, and so she makes a favourite out of every client who enters the shops, diffusing their fears and encouraging them to try something new and unexpected. Often it will also be a style they have never worn before entering the boutique, however with Poulios’ expert product knowledge, she can envision something the client cannot and will help them gain new perspective. It can be a balancing act and a lesson in patience, but when that client smiles and gives her a hug, telling her that she made her day, it inspires her to continue doing what she does. To create a space where her customers can feel unique and imaginative with their wardrobe, Poulios makes a point to travel extensively to find exclusive items for her two boutiques. She researches designers and prices, curating to suit her clientele and the level of quality and style they are seeking. Her merchandise includes designers and labels from all over the world, including Spain, France and Germany. Her favourite designers include Rodrigo Otazu, originally from Argentina, but who now designs stunning jewellery for stars in Hollywood. His pieces feature Swarovski crystals and are both elegant and on trend. Another is Flavio Castellani from Italy who creates beautiful, high-end garments that flatter a variety of female body shapes. To focus on exclusivity only a maximum of three of each piece, in different sizes will be brought in the store, to ensure there are not too many of the same styles available.

Her customers appreciate wearing one-of-a-kind items that cannot be found elsewhere in Ottawa. Her clients are not looking for fast fashion styles; rather they seek what Poulios appreciates most, which is quality and exclusivity. In response, the women who shop at Poised and Envied see the prices of these specialty items the way she does: completely worth it. They leave the stores, hugging and kissing Poulios and the other employees at the end of their experience, because they will have found an item or an outfit that has exceeded their expectations – in fit, in quality and most importantly in how fantastic it makes them feel. They are open with their thoughts and feelings and communicate openly with Poulios, her employees and most certainly with their own social circles. This dialogue and honest feedback from her clientele has been the backbone to Poulios’ growing business and the driving force of her passion. Poulios also believes in supporting a healthy self-image through exercise and self care. To her, treating ourselves should not be limited to the purchase of a new article of clothing or jewellery, but also taking the time to maintain our physical and mental health. Through her years of interaction with a variety of women, Poulios finds that an alarming number of clients, friends and family members do not make time for themselves, especially mothers and care takers. Poulios herself is a registered fitness instructor who teaches spinning classes and she firmly believes that women must start making themselves and their health a priority, not only for their own sake, but also to propagate a healthy lifestyle within their families and their communities. When you look good, you feel good, and that motto applies from the change rooms in her boutiques to the spinning studio where she continues to motivate women to make a change. Poulios has truly found a niche role in the Ottawa fashion industry and with the clientele she attracts. The women leave, thankful for discovering a shop that feels customized, where they are encouraged to dress for their body shape and not by trend. The Poised and Envied customers are each catered to individually, with styles that feel like they were made especially for them and that compliment their unique curves. Poulios’ childhood dream looks a bit different, but the result is still her goal realized: giving back and helping others. Working in fashion, she has invested that altruistic passion into what she does for her clientele now; helping women get dressed, offering suggestions for their body type, and always supporting a healthy self image. Her ambition is more than simply owning two boutiques in Ottawa; rather it is a holistic approach to encouraging women in building their self-esteem through style. Through her extensive knowledge of cut and fit of each designer and her experience helping women of a range of ages and body types, she has truly cultivated a career of confidence.

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Feature

Brit Wacher words by Sienna Vittoria

“I have not yet grown out

of living in my imaginary world� - Wacher

photo by Marquis Montes

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Designer feature

A

s time goes by, we see that creativity is being buried deeper and deeper under commerce. Even in art, deadlines and financial duties can often trump the artist’s vision. Like a breath of fresh air, up-and-coming designer Brittany Wacher offers a glimmer of hope as she strives to remain loyal to her artistic vision. Brit Wacher, the label, was founded in 2010. “I used my name because it is simple and it’s me from start to finish,” explained Wacher. Her collections consist of a limited number of looks, and do not necessarily follow the trends. “Customers come to me for pieces that will last a long time in their wardrobe.” Her clothing ranges greatly in price, from $150 to sometimes $1200. One of her most popular looks is a long, black, silk dress. “These compliment all body types and ages,” she said proudly. While Wacher’s goal is to eventually sell her clothing in boutiques across Canada, for now she is focusing on developing her craft, and making custom orders for clients that come to her with requests. Wacher was born and raised in rural western Canada and educated at Vancouver’s LaSalle College, where she studied fashion design. She is now based in Montreal, where she says it is “rich with culture.” Her debut collection of structural and innovative clothing was met at Montreal Fashion Week with great enthusiasm. Wacher believes that by building her line in Montreal she is at an advantage because the market there is more congruent with her aesthetic. While women in western Canada traditionally gravitate towards comfort, ease and simplicity, those in Montreal tend to be more daring in their fashion choices. “It’s a great city for creating,” Wacher affirmed. Having always been interested in creating, fashion design was the perfect fit for Wacher from a young age. She has memories of her grandmother sewing, and often making her childhood dresses. “I was in a world of handmade clothing,” said Wacher. “I’m very inspired by her.”

Wacher’s advice to aspiring designers is plain and simple - “work very hard,” she said. Her days consist of early mornings, late nights, and plenty of caffeine. “I work around the clock.” In order to not tire of repetition, she spreads out her work in stations, each with a different step of the process. It’s hard to pinpoint what it is Wacher looks for when choosing models for her runway shows. “Sometimes its about their personality,” she said, but mostly “it’s about their energy.” She promotes girls who are healthy, and who lead a healthy lifestyle. “I like it when they’re glowing.” Her youth and authentic outlook is definitely an asset to her. “I suppose I have quite a lot of energy,” she admits, “I have not yet grown out of living in my imaginary world.” She attributes her imagination and her curiosity as her fuel, and hopes she will never lose it. While she does shuffle ideas around in her mind from a business perspective, she states that she is above all “a slave to [her] concept, vision and perspective.” Jonathan Swift once said that “vision is the art of seeing what is invisible to others,” and this is true of the best artists. Their work is a reflection of what is occurring in society, and this helps shape the way we view our surroundings. Wacher fits this description, as she absorbs the world around her, and recreates it in her clothing. “I call it subconscious gathering,” she said. “Everything that I create is a direct reflection of what is happening around me.” If this is the case, we can’t wait to see what happens next.

photo by Olivier Doivin-Carrier

The collection Wacher showed this season was sharp and innovative. The colour palette was limited to blacks, whites, with neutral beiges and greys. The focus was thus left on the silhouette and the cut of the clothing. The shapes were more dramatic than is common for ready to wear apparel, with rounded shoulders and tulip bulb like hips. Tops were often cropped and featured collars that were sharp and crisp. Textures varied greatly, with unexpected detailing such as woven leather, futuristic patterns, juxtaposed with soft, pleated chiffon. There was an underlying theme of androgyny and minimalism that was emphasized in her suits and blouses.

Gaining inspiration from everyday life, she attempts to capture energy and natural forces in the movement and shapes of her clothing. Wacher cherishes her role as a creator as she believes that it is “such a healthy exercise to be constantly taking our perspectives [on the world] and turning it into material.” She hopes to share her imagination with others and have her art be a part of everyday life. “I’m very fascinated with people being able to walk around and live in my art,” she said.

Wacher designs for a niche market of young adult women between the ages of 25 and 40 years old. Like herself, “[her] woman is educated and interested in the arts,” she said. Wacher’s goal is to eventually expand her clientele by offering menswear as well as more accessible styles for women. Ultimately though, she wishes to continue designing apparel and also focus on her art, by creating installation exhibitions that incorporate her clothing line. “I want to find a way to merge my art and fashion together,” she said. Wacher was trained as a tailor, specifically focusing on pattern drafting. Her clothing is very structural, and all the draping is done with precision and exact intent. “This has contributed to my style a lot,” Wacher reflects. Her process begins with a succession of drawings. “I draw hundreds and hundreds of sketches,” she admitted. “I draw faces to discover the mood I want to portray,” or, she said, “the lack of mood.” She builds characters from these drawings, which eventually become the base of her collection. Patterns, mockups and tests are then developed, until the garments are right. “I could never have someone else do the patterns for me,” Wacher said. “Patternmaking for me is also like a sketching process. It’s very important.” Wacher focuses on creating shapes with her clothing, and her aesthetic is quite minimal, and lacking colour. “I’m fascinated by neutrality and being in a medium state of mind,” she said. In her lookbook photos she instructed her models to appear neutral, and show a lack of emotion. “I’m really interested in the mind, and how we’re interacting with each other.” Designer Brit Wacher

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despair frank begin / creative direction & fashion styling christopher massardo melody iafelice / models laura kell with next models canada & Aris with Models international management

photographer makeup, hair & nails

(on next page) dress Tony Bowls at Poised Boutique necklace Originals by Andrea rings Osolee bangles ALDO

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blazer Moschino Cheap & Chic at AMH Style top Missoni at AMH Style pants Rock’n Karma at Envied

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coat Elie Tahari at AMH Style 27


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jacket Supertrash at Envied top vintage bangle stylist’s own pants GUESS


dress (this page) Desigual at Envied necklace (next page) Originals by Andrea

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jacket TaiKonKu at AMH Style top Marc by Marc Jacobs at AMH Style bangles Osolee necklace Originals by Andrea faux leather pants Topshop

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dress Angels Never Die at Envied 33


Feature

on

the runway ot tawa fa s h ion w eek

s/ s 2014

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Iman Nakhala

DARE by Gwen Madiba

Naike

Kania

photography by katia pershin

Zarucci

DARE by Gwen Madiba

Joseph Ribkoff


Runway - Ottawa Fashion Week S/S 2014

In it’s tenth season, Ottawa Fashion Week is growing into a well rounded platform for designers to introduce their brands to the Ottawa market. Ottawa Fashion Week has had well known local designers such as DARE by Gwen Madiba, Jana Hanzel & Emilia Torabi, Kania, Sukhoo Sukhoo and more feature their collections. Also being a debut for some, Tess Johnson and Zarucci (two of our favourites) both chose Ottawa Fashion Week as their first time debuting their collections at any fashion week. That being said, not just a draw for the local contenders, the event has also served as the runway for major brands like Joseph Ribkoff, Travis Taddeo and RUD by Rudsak to mention a quick few. This season was no different with a very diverse group of new and returning designers’ collections hitting the runway! Making their debut Zarucci offered feminine pieces with delicate embroidery and design. Brit Wacher’s collection offered playful shapes that fused a hard edge with femininity. Iman Nakhala gave us elegant and sophisticated glamour that tells a beautiful story as it glides down the runway. DARE by Gwen Madiba as always, shows us that simplicity mixed with amazing structure and a careful eye for the female body can go a long way. Check out some of our favourite looks below!

Brit Wacher

Bernice & Barclay

Brit Wacher

Joseph Ribkoff

Iman Nakhala

Zarucci

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from glam to punk, this season has it all

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photographer Jennifer Dickinson fashion stylist Vincent Lee makeup Vanessa Mills (VMMA Makeup Artistry Studio) hair Jade Ward with LURE Salon manicure Stephanie Daon Park (VMMA Makeup Artistry Studio) model is Yana with Next Models Canada

Feature

let’s accessorize

sunglasses Wildfox necklace Jennyfleur Loves


feature

ECCO www.eccocanada.com

EXPRESS www.express.com

Dr.Martens Chobhi

www.drmartenscanada.ca

www.chobhi.com

Originals by Andrea www.originalsbyandrea.com

EXPRESS www.express.com

Thomas Sabo www.thomassabo.com

Tristan www.tristanstyle.com

EXPRESS www.express.com

Atlas by Tiffany and Co. www.tiffany.ca

DKNY www.brownsshoes.com 37


with you..

irem harnak Mark John tripp with Lang Artists makeup robert Weir with judy inc. hair Brennen demelo with lang artists model carly with elite model management photographer

Fashion stylist

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jacket Chanel earrings Blackbird 39


dress Hermès earrings & rings Blackbird

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coat Louis Vuitton

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coat Louis dress Givenchy Vuitton at Holt Renfrew

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dress Chloè at Holt Renfrew 43


dress Chanel leggings Chanel shoes Chanel 4 4 PR E S S Th e F ash ion



D es i gn e r f eat u re

Q&A

with johnny yiu

We caught up with outerwear designer Johnny Yiu to chat about the collection, how he got started and how the brand stands out from the competition.

How did Johnny Yiu come to be? After spending so much time developing outerwear, I really wanted to develop a line that would be a creative outlet. I saw in the market that there was a void, and with all the brands I was working with (including some of my own other brands), nothing was taking that place. And so, I decided to fill that space myself. What type of woman wears Johnny Yiu? A woman who is sophisticated, fresh, and optimistic about winter! She cares about her feminine style through Spring, Summer, and the Autumn, and certainly won’t give up on herself come winter time. A confident woman doesn’t need style to define herself, but her style is simply an extension of her personality. A Johnny Yiu Collection wearer recognizes that she can express her style year round. How do you keep the brand consistent as the company grows? We’ve learned that to grow, we have to change, but keep our brand and focus consistent. Our focus is on luxurious, feminine silhouettes that are soft and make a statement about what outerwear can be. The outerwear market has changed a lot in the last decade, but we want to focus on our niche. Is this what you had always wanted to have for a career? Was it planned or did you fall into it? In a sense, I kind of fell into it. When I started my focus was on manufacturing, but soon enough my expertise in understanding outerwear and how it is put together reignited the creativity in me. I always expressed my creativity outside of work when I was just starting out in the industry – through music and art. This is simply an extension of that now. What or who inspires you? This is tough. I’m not just a designer – I am also running various businesses, and juggling life in between – so there is very little time for me to go out, enjoy a day, and be inspired. The inspiration really is just my drive to be persistent in what I believe in. The fashion business is a competitive industry. How do you feel you stand out amongst so many other brands? By doing what we do well. What we do continues to be so different from the other labels out there, and it isn’t just a facade – the quality matches it down to the last stitch. We have our signature custom hardware that is unique to our line, but above all, I would say the silhouettes and quilting we have is really something special. People who understand what we do, love it.

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on the runway

Runway - the shOws S/S 2014

t he sh o w s

s /s 2 0 1 4

The runways are always a lovely excuse to look toward the future seasons and of course check out the latest and soon to be trends. On October 9th and 10th the Spring/Summer 2014 edition of the shOws took place in Toronto to much anticipation. The two day runway event is known for featuring amazing designers season after season. While many “fashion week style” events can be known for trying to see how many designers they can fit into an evening or number of days, the shOws take a quality over quantity approach that really works in their favour. The key message that really stands out is something more developing fashion markets should take note of, it doesn’t take ‘x number’ of designers or days to produce a great fashion show. It simply takes a clear vision with an understanding that less really can be more. This season featured Jeremy Laing, Steven Tai, Calla and Bellavance., all of which delivered fantastic collections. You can check out some of our favourite looks below and learn more at theshows.com.

Bellavance

Calla

Jeremy Laing

Steven Tai

Jeremy Laing

Steven Tai

Bellavance

Jeremy Laing

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colin gaudet amber watkins lauren with Angie’s models

photographer

fashion editor model

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Shift


coat Johnny Yiu blazer Tristan shirt Tristan pin Shopgirls 49


coat Johnny Yiu sweater MinkPink necklace Express toque SS&Co.

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coat Express jacket Ferhn at Shopgirls top Travis Taddeo at Shopgirls crop top Express necklace Express 51


cape Johnny Yiu sweater Melissa Nepton at Shopgirls necklace Express headband SS&Co.

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jacket GUESS dress Pink Martini scarf SS&Co.

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model search Think you should be on the cover? Think you have what it takes to be an international model? We’re once again having a model search! This year our winner walks away with a cover & spread in PRESS The Fashion Magazine, a contract with Angie’s Models and Talent, will appear in the F/W 2014 campaign for Zarucci and will appear in an advertisement for Originals by Andrea.

Send a face and (clothed) full length photograph with your... height, age, dress and shoe size to info@pressthefashionmagazine.com by January 2nd, 2014.

*Semi-finalists will be contacted for a casting held at Angie’s Models and Talent by January 15th (date of casting TBD). **Applicants must be female, at least 14 years old and 5ft.7in. ***If selected as a semi-finalist and you are under 18, you must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian to the casting.




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