PRESTIGE English Edition Volume 1 by Schweizer Fachmedien

VOLUME 1 l WINTER 2016

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PRESTIGE appears four times a year English Edition Switzerland, Germany and Austria in german Publisher Francesco J. Ciringione Owner Prestige Media International AG, www.prestigemedia.ch

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CONTENTS 26

TRAVEL

76 OMAN Fairytales Come True

81 JANE GODALL The Mother of Chimpanzees

82 IRELAND Lighthouses 84 INFINITY POOLS SpectaPOOLar

87 DID YOU KNOW…? Oil, Indonesia and Terracotta Army

88 INSIDER TIPS Vienna

90 MALDIVES A Journey to Paradise

98 A PEEP BEHIND THE SCENES From Baghdad to North Korea

COVER STORY

26 THE BIG APPLE New York

48 PRESTIGE PRESENTS … In the Time Capsule

CULTURE & ART

56 BRAD PITT A Flair for Art

62 AUTUMN DIARY From Klimt to Sheep Award Ceremony

64 FRANCK BOUROULLEC The High-Speed Painter

68 ITALIAN VIOLIN MAKING The Lollobrigida among the Violins

72 ELITE UNIVERSITIES The Training Centres of the World

75 CHRISTOPHER LEE The Most Famous Vampire of the World

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CONTENTS 118

WATCHES & JEWELLERY 100 FACES OF TIME Dials 115 DID YOU KNOW…? Rolex, Giant Crystals & Golden Times 117 CAROLINA BUCCI Finely Woven Gold Jewellery 118 SHADES OF GREEN The Emerald 122 ANNETTE & HERBERT KOPP Handmade jewellery collection

124 DRIVE STYLE

140

124 COMMITTED TO ELEGANCE Concorso d’Eleganza 129 RALLYE Paris–Dakar 130 TULIPWOOD The wooden Torpedo 133 MOTORISED BOOKS Myths, Hippies & Members only 134 THE NEXT WAVE OF SUVS Greetings from the Four-Wheel Drive Faction 140 A STAR ON AN EXTENDED TOUR 77 Years of Mercedes Four-Wheel Drive 142 THE GENTLE CONQUEROR Maserati: Gentleman with 530 HP

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CONTENTS FASHION

172

BEAUTY

146 MOVIES CREATE FASHION Wardrobes of the stars

172 ORGANIC DE LUXE The Eco-Luxury Class

152 SHARON STONE 10 Questions for …

178 SIX SENSES From Smokey Eye to a Sea of Roses

154 PRESTIGE PRESENTS Fashion Collages by Nora Ermatinger

182 ZARKO AHLMANN PAVLOV Fragrant Charm

164 FASHION CLASSICS The Poncho

186 HELENA RUBINSTEIN The Queen of Cosmetics

166 GOLF & FASHION Fairway Fashion

202

187 DID YOU KNOW…? Nivea, Mascara and Perfume

170 NAOMI CAMPBELL Beauty and the Beast

LIVING 188 BIG Yes is more! 194 HOTEL ARCHITECTURE Visiting Architectural Marvels 198 NEWS OF THE WORLD OF DESIGN I Sofa & Corkscrew 200 DESIGN CLASSICS Jacobsen’s Egg 202 HUBERT LE GALL Furniture from Wonderland 207 NEWS OF THE WORLD OF DESIGN II Lamp & Bathtub 208 ISAMU NOGUCHI Western Art meets Japanese Tradition

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RADO.COM

RADO TRUE DIAMONDS HIGH-TECH CERAMIC • LUXURY AND COMFORT • SERIOUSLY IRRESISTIBLE

TIME IS THE ESSENCE WE ARE MADE OF

CONTENTS

210 CULINARIUM 210 THE MAGICIAN OF FLAVOURS Nenad Mlinarevic 215 PURE PLEASURE Saffron 216 VIRTUOSOS BEHIND THE BAR Jerry Thomas & Ada Coleman 219 NEWS FOR GOURMETS Smokables & Espresso Pleasure

215

220 PROFESSIONAL BARTENDERS RECOMMEND … Favourite drinks for 2015 223 DID YOU KNOW…? Taste of Christmas & Roots 224 BEER TOURS Man’s best friend

COLUMNS NEWS

71 WILHELM J. GRUSDAT – We Do it All … 97 JASMIN TAYLOR – A Trip to the Coloured Earth of Mauritius

116 ELEGANT JEWELLERY 123 THE JEWELLERY OF YOUR DREAMS 139 I SEE BLUE 151 BLACK & WHITE 153 CASUAL ELEGANCE 171 CANDY COLOURS 180 PRETTY FOR AUTUMN 185 AUTUMN’S HERE 10 LEGAL NOTICE 226 PREVIEW GRAFF

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M ESUR E ET D ÉMESUR E *

TONDA METROGR APHE

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DEAR

READERS W

elcome to our first Prestige International e-mag edition in english.

Let us take you on a journey to the city that never sleeps, the Big Apple. Soaring skyscrapers, the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building, Fifth Avenue, Central Park – everyone knows the sights of New York. But there are a few that are less well known but equally worth seeing. Join us for a peek behind the scenes on Broadway and visit Harlem’s Apollo Theater. Explore Brooklyn and discover all the best places to stay. New York sets the trends, and some of them have found their way over here. The «Go Veggie» initiative has come and gone in the USA, but now celebrities are avoiding all animal products. Find out about the latest «green» trends in the luxury sector – including vegan fashion and organic beauty. We’ll also reveal the latest must-have gadgets and which fragrance you should be wearing this autumn. So it’s time to pour yourself a nice glass of red and put your feet up in front of the fire with the latest edition of Prestige.

Francesco J. Ciringione Publisher

Yvonne Beck Chief Editor

& ART

CULTURE

NEW YORK

It is the capital city of the American Dream. The city that never sleeps. The city of superlatives. There is no doubt that New York is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exciting cities. New York is not America, but this is where the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heart beats the loudest. Yvonne Beck

CULTURE & ART

«New York is an ugly city. Its climate is a scandal, its politics are used to frighten children, its traffic is madness, its competition is murderous. But there is one thing about it – once you have lived in New York and it has become your home, no place else is good enough.» – John Steinbeck, 1953 –

Money changers on Ellis Island | 1910.

elting Pot

The metropolitan area of New York is home to 21 million people. 171 nationalities live cheek-by-jowl, and almost 100 languages are spoken. 40 percent of the population speak Spanish at home and 25 % do not speak English. Nearly a third of taxi drivers speak barely a word of English. New Yorkers are protected by 50,000 police officers, treated by 12,000 psychiatrists, entertained by 600 productions on and off Broadway and have a choice of 18,000 food establishments to eat in. Their spiritual needs are looked after by 6000 churches, temples and mosques. 122,000 licensed taxis criss-cross the city. Including its 5 boroughs, it covers a total surface area of 779 square kilometres (compared to Berlin at 883 sq km and London at 1,580 sq km). Originally settled by the Dutch, British and Huguenots, New York was very much a city of immigrants. Its harbour meant that this was even more the case during the 19th century. Between 1815 and 1915, 33 million immigrants entered the United States, three quarters of them through the port of New York. Thousands of Irish fled the great famine of 1845 to 1847 to seek a new life in the New World. They were joined by German Catholics, Italians, Scandinavians, Jews and people from every corner of the world. Almost half of all immigrants worked in factories making everything from machinery to shoes and cigars. Germans settled in «Little Germany» to the

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CULTURE & ART

Ellis Island: gateway to the New World.

Jewish market on the East Side. This area was settled by many poor Eastern Europeans.

south, on the East River. This was the site of the Singer sewing machine factory, so beer taverns and German businesses quickly sprang up. In the 2000 census, 43 million Americans – one in six of the population – said they had German ancestors.

Admitting immigrants In 1892 an immigration centre was established on Ellis Island to regulate immigration to America. Some 12 million immigrants passed through the island between 1892 and 1954. At this time it was mainly people from Eastern and Southern Europe who were fleeing unrest and political persecution. The majority were highly educated Russian, Polish and Austrian Jews. They settled on the Lower East Side. At the same time Italians were flocking to New York looking for unskilled work in the clothing industry or as construction workers on the subway. These new immigrants were said to be unwilling to assimilate and incapable of understanding life in America. Writing and reading tests were introduced. Restrictions on immigration became ever tighter, and gradually the authorities began to refuse entry to the sick, polygamists, prostitutes, the poor, anarchists, C hinese (1882), Japanese (1907) and illiterates (1917). In spite of this, 1,285,349 immigrants were cleared through customs in the year 1907 alone. Almost every second American (40 %) has ancestors who entered the country via Ellis Island.

A Hearty Welcome & Thank You … In 1524 the Italian Giovanni da Verranzano was the first European to sail around Manhattan. 85 years later the Briton Henry Hudson also set foot on the densely wooded island. The Dutch made the first attempts to settle the southernmost point and called their trading post Nieuw Amsterdam. The Mana-Hattans, native Red Indians of the Delaware tribe, gave the white man a friendly welcome. Just 30 years later, they had been wiped out.

The luxurious way of life | 29

CULTURE & ART

«It isn’t like the rest of the country – it is like a nation itself – more tolerant than the rest in a curious way…» – John Steinbeck –

Mott Street: a symbol of New York’s melting pot This street was mainly settled by Asian immigrants.

The immigrants named Ellis Island the Island of Tears because many a fate was decided upon after a 2-minute interview and a medical examination. First of all, immigrants had to climb 50 steep stairs to the registration room, closely observed by doctors. Anyone who found this difficult could have a heart problem, so they were subjected to a more intensive examination. The doctors checked for infectious diseases, inspected hands, face and hair and if anyone looked suspicious they were given a chalk mark on their right shoulder ( «S» for senility, «Ct» for the eye disease trachoma and «X» for a mental defect). The others passed through a door with the inscription «Push to New York» and were admitted.

The Boroughs and their Nationalities Between 1900 and 1930 some 300,000 people left the Caribbean islands to come to New York. The «Harlem Renaissance» of the 1920s attracted many blacks to move to the city from the South. But in contrast to other ethnic groups, they were denied access to social betterment. As soon as black citizens moved into a neighbourhood, the white population left and the prices of real estate went through the floor. It was only the music and literature scene that afforded the black population a measure of fame at this time. Districts such as

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Harlem continue to be shaped by that era. After the Second World War, large numbers of Puerto Ricans, Cubans and Dominicans arrived in the USA. Israeli and Arab immigrants began arriving in the 1960s. They abandoned their homelands because of economic difficulties and political unrest in the Middle East. Since 1965 the largest number of newcomers has come from China, and since the fall of the Soviet Union many Black Sea Russians, mostly Orthodox Jews, have also moved to New York. They predominantly live in Brooklyn or on Coney Island.They predominantly live in Brooklyn or on Coney Island. Asians from Vietnam, Korea, India and Taiwan mainly opt for the area north of Queens. So, New York may be a melting pot, but people still like to live among their own, and many still follow the customs and traditions of their home countries.

How the population is made up 27 percent of the population originate from Spanish or Portuguese-speaking countries, and around half of these come from Puerto Rico. Blacks (Afro-Americans) make up 25 % of the population and whites (Eurasians) around 35 %. 10 percent have other ethnic origins – chiefly Asians and Arabs.

CULTURE & ART

1 3

4 6

CULTURE & ART

THE

BROADWAY

OF THE

It is the most famous street in the world. This is where stars were born and its lights shine as if there is no tomorrow.

«The musical is the American theatre’s main claim to fame.» – Jerry Herman –

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CULTURE & ART

or over 130 years Broadway has been the heart and soul of American showbusiness. Back then no one would have guessed that this street would become the world’s longest street, 25 kilometres long. Broadway was originally an Indian trail that was also an early trading route. It became an important link between the harbour and the hinterland.

Shows, Shows, Shows Today when we talk of Broadway we generally mean the relatively small theatre district, which makes up just one thirtieth of the street’s length. Nowadays the Broadway theatres are confined to an 800-metre stretch and its side streets to east and west. The term Broadway Theatre has remained, even though there are now only five playhouses on Broadway itself. Three of these can barely be recognized as theatres because they are located in office towers. A further 34 theatres are located on the side streets of Time Square, be-

tween 42nd and 47th Street. Apart from London’s West End, this area has the highest density of theatres in the world.

The Capital of Musicals Musicals dominate Broadway – quite understandably, as this is where they were born. This glamorous form of musical theatre developed out of vaudeville, m elodrama, minstrel shows, operettas, ragtime and jazz. «The Black Crook» (1866) is considered to be the first real musical. But it was not until the Thirties that the genre really took off. Musicals were also hugely popular after the Second World War. Many of the songs that are still popular today come from hit musicals from the Forties and Fifties: «Annie Get Your Gun» (1946), «Kiss Me Kate» (1948) and «My Fair Lady» (1956) to name but a few. In 1957 «West Side Story«, Leonard Bernstein’s Puerto Rican take on «Romeo and Juliet», opened in New York. This was followed by global hits such as «Cats», «Phantom of the Opera», «Miss Saigon», «The Lion King» and «42nd Street». Many of these musicals have also been staged in Stuttgart, Hamburg and Vienna. One musical that has not yet reached us in Europe is «The Jersey Boys», a show which has close ties to New York. PRESTIGE met up with Richard H. Blake who plays the role of Tommy de Vito. We asked him about the attraction of Broadway and the «Jersey Boys».

The Broadway Collection The Broadway Collection brings together all the wonderful Broadway musicals and events in New York City. These shows are selected for their unrivalled popularity with international audiences. Its website provides information on the best Broadway shows on offer in New York so that visitors can make their plans before they arrive. Tickets should be booked in advance from one of the large tour operators. It is almost impossible to pick up a ticket at a bargain price at one of the TKTS kiosks when you arrive. So it’s worth doing your homework and booking now! www.broadwaycollection.com

The luxurious way of life | 33

PRESTIGE: Mr Blake, how long have you been acting on Broadway? Richard H. Blake: This is my 15th Broadway show. Before that I was in «Wicked» and «Rent». I’ve acted in many excellent shows and now I’m delighted to be part of the «Jersey Boys». Broadway is a really tough business but the applause and the reaction of the audience is like a drug to me. And how long have you been playing Tommy DeVito? I joined the show a year and nine months ago. With eight shows a week this makes about 710 performances. But I’m still a newbie – some of the cast have already been in it for seven or eight years. Doesn’t it start to get boring, and as a musical performer is it possible to give your very best every evening? You have to give your best otherwise you’re in the wrong job. The audience expects this from you. Every Broadway production in New York is a huge financial investment. For example, the musical «Cats» swallowed up 1.2 million dollars in production costs in London but in New York it cost 5.3 million. Producing a musical in New York is an enormous risk compared to somewhere like London’s West End. Between 750‚000 and 1 million Dollars are required for a play of not more than seven actors in a single set cast in New York. Between 5 and 7 million are needed for an elaborate musical. Whoever takes the stage here,

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n o matter how long this play has already been staged, has to do their best. But I love coming to work. I have a great job. And it’s twice as much fun in a show like this one. Did you know the story of the «Jersey Boys» before you took this part? No. I knew most of the songs, but I didn’t know anything about the group. Their story is really fascinating. They weren’t just musicians who came together to form a band but small town gangsters who had even done time in prison. They became pop idols because they simply had the right sound. It is interesting how many people know their songs without connecting them to the «Jersey Boys». Many of the songs have been remixed … Lauren Hill’s «Can’t take my Eyes Off You», «Begging» was sampled and just about every musician has covered «Oh what a Night». Are you originally from New York or did you come to try your luck here? I have lived in New York since the age of eight. I have lived in New Jersey for the last 15 years – so I’m almost a true Jersey Boy, not just on stage. What does Broadway mean to you? The past, the present and the future. And what does New York mean to you in three words? Exciting, wild and my home.

CULTURE & ART

Harlem: a centre for Afro-American culture.

Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture Anyone who is interested in Afro-American culture should visit the Schomburg Center. The Center’s key exhibits come from the private collection of Arthur Schomburg (1874–1938). As a protest against the belief that blacks had no history, this bank clerk from Puerto Rico amassed a vast collection, including 500 books, 300 manuscripts and 200 etchings and portraits. The building has an octagon at one end and features a tower at the corner of 135th Street. It was designed by Bond Ryder Associates.

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CULTURE & ART

HARLEM

New York’s fast subway trains – once immortalized by Duke Ellington’s «Take the A-Train» whisk their passengers from Times Square to Harlem in less than 10 minutes. This neighbourhood is mainly home to African-Americans, so it has an interesting culture.

Streetlife

he Harlem Renaissance

For many years, Harlem was known as «The Black Capital of America». In 1910 Harlem’s population was almost exclusively black. A construction boom began after the turn of the century when a subway line was built connecting Harlem to South Manhattan. But noone wanted to rent the apartments that were built. So Philip A. Payton Junior, a black real estate agent, convinced the worried owners to let their empty apartments to the fast-growing black population. Writers, artists and musicians all moved into the neighbourhood, which had its heyday in the 1920s. The renaissance of black consciousness was celebrated in legendary nightspots such as the «Cotton Club» and «Apollo Theatre» – though racial segregation meant that they performed exclusively for white audiences. After the Wall Street crash in 1929 the neighbourhood sank into abject poverty. Well into the 1980s, Harlem was synonymous with drugs, poverty and violence. At night, many parts of Harlem were no-go areas, but in the 21st century it has experienced a second renaissance. Its cultural life has been reawakened and crime rates are falling steadily. More and more tourists are coming to explore the neighbourhood and now companies such as Harlem Heritage Tours and Harlem Spirituals are offering tours and walks around the district.

The luxurious way of life | 37

CULTURE & ART

«The role of an artist in New York is to make a neighbourhood so attractive that artists can’t live there any more.» —Ed Koch, former city mayor of New York—

Black Power in Harlem. The new black consciousness.

Apollo Theater: a springboard for world stars.

A Talent Factory We cannot fail to mention the legendary «Apollo Theatre». Until 1934 blacks were prohibited from entering the theatre, which opened in 1913. Despite this, the next 40 years belonged to Bessie Smith, Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington, Count Basie, Ella Fitzgerald and Aretha Franklin. In the Forties its stage was one of the homes of Bebop and New York-style jazz was hugely popular here. In the early Seventies it was turned into a cinema and then closed down in 1976. It re-opened after undergoing a total renovation in the 1980s. Its «amateur nights» are particularly popular, and budding talents have a good chance of being spotted, as this is how Ella Fitzgerald, Sarah Vaughan and Lauren Hill were discovered. And even on evenings when no new global stars are discovered, the atmosphere is still quite unique. The winner is chosen by the audience and as soon as an adult takes to the stage, anything goes: applause,

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heckling, whistling and foot stamping. When the audience doesn’t like an artist they simply boo them off the stage. The audience is king. Despite this, every year 1,500 hopefuls apply to perform at Amateur Night, and only a quarter of them manage to get on the stage. One of them who went all the way was Michael Jackson. In the late 1960s he and his family, «The Jackson Five», entered an Amateur Night and won. So it’s not surprising that thousands of his fans gathered at the theatre to mourn his death.

Stirring Church Music Most gospel services are held in Harlem, the South Bronx and the black areas of Brooklyn. Of the most well known are the choirs of the Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem. It is the most famous of the more or less 400 churches in Harlem. The Neo-Gothic church was built in 1924 and provided the backdrop for father and son Adam Clyton Powell – the son was also a Congressman in 1944 – to deliver their fiery sermons. A gospel service is held here every Sunday at 11 o’clock. But despite the gospel choir’s lively and stirring music, don’t forget that this is a church service, not a tourist attraction.

CUTS The Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty and Times Square were the stars of yesterday. Today visitors to New York make a beeline for the High Line, the new Whitney Museum and the viewing platform at One World Trade Centre.

1 1 A NEW TREASURE TROVE The Whitney Museum of American Art in Manhattan is home to a major collection of American 20th and 21st century art. Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney founded the museum in 1931 when she donated 700 artworks from her private collection. The museum’s mission is to «collect, explore, explain and question» American art with an emphasis on living, contemporary working artists. On 1 May 2015 the museum relocated to Renzo Piano’s new building in order to provide more space for the collection. The permanent collection can be admired in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. It comprises more than 18,000 works by over 2,800 artists, including Cindy Sherman, Andy Warhol and Louise Bourgeois. www.whitney.org

2 A PARK ON RAILS Once it was a disused elevated railway track, today it’s a green oasis. Goods trains used to transport meat from A to B on the High Line. From 1934 to 1980 this is how goods were delivered to warehouses on Manhattan’s West Side. But it was abandoned after goods moved onto the roads. Today it is adorned with trees, lawns and flowers, providing the perfect retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. New York’s green promenade is most definitely worth a visit. High Line Park can be reached by a stairway between 10th and 11th Avenue from Gansevoort Street to 30th Street on Manhattan’s West Side. www.thehighline.org

3 DO YOU HAVE A HEAD FOR HEIGHTS? Then head to New York’s highest tourist attraction! Now the city can be admired from 100 floors up. 14 years after the attacks of 11 September the viewing platform in the new World Trade Centre was opened to the public. It’s worth waiting in line just for the ride up in the elevator. It is a form of time travel, a journey through 500 years of Manhattan’s history, all in just 47 seconds. And when they get to the top, visitors can look forward to a truly unique view. The terrorist attacks of 11 September have been deliberately ignored. For this, there is the 9 / 11 museum, where thousands of objects from the World Trade Centre are on display, including the possessions of victims, eyewitnesses and helpers: shoes, hats, uniforms. At One World Trade Centre, it’s all about experiencing breathtaking views of the city. www.onewtc.com

CULTURE & ART

With its 183 square kilometres and 2.5 million inhabitants, Brooklyn is the most densely populated district of New York. Here Chinese, Arabs, Africans, Mexicans, West Indians and Russians live on neighbouring streets.

THE OTHER

NEW YORK

CULTURE & ART

«In my childhood no one committed suicide – people were far too unhappy for that.»

Street art on every corner.

Flea market in Dumbo.

efore the New York boroughs were consolidated in 1898, Brooklyn was the fourth largest city in the USA. It was named after the Dutch town of Breuckelen. Brooklyn is one of the city’s liveliest neighbourhoods. This is down to its multicultural vibe, Coney Island amusement park and trendy Williamsburg with its little shops and factories.

Brooklyn Bridge Just getting to Brooklyn is spectacular, as it involves crossing the legendary Brooklyn Bridge. As it crosses over the East River, the high walkway offers amazing views of Manhattan’s impressive skyline. The bridge itself is also a marvel of engineering. When it was completed in 1883, it was the world’s longest suspension bridge. It was constructed by the German engineer Johann August Roebling, who founded America’s first steel cable factory in 1841. His plan was to build the longest and highest suspension bridge in the world. But it would take another 16 years before his plans were approved. He was killed in an accident during con-

– Woody Allen –

struction, so he never got to see the finished bridge. His son Washington took over managing the project and decided to use the caisson technique. This involved anchoring large cases underwater to act as the bridge’s foundations. Air pressure prevents water from seeping into the caissons. The working conditions were brutal and many workers became sick with a strange disease. Today this is known as caisson disease or the bends, which occurs when divers leave high-pressure environments too quickly. Roebling also contracted this ailment. He suffered severe pains and was disabled for the rest of his life. But he did not want to stop construction so he monitored progress from his wheelchair. His wife, Mrs Emily Roebling, took over the supervision of the gigantic building site. She did the negotiations, enforced the quality standards of the Roebling company and dealt with a host of problems. Even today this would be a formidable achievement , but in the late 19th century it was quite unheard of for a woman. On 24 May 1883 the gigantic bridge was inaugurated with a huge celebration. Today more than 120,000 vehicles, 5,000 pedestrians and 3,100 cyclists cross the bridge every day.

Art in Focus Brooklyn is also always worth a visit for art lovers. Over recent years a great many artists have settled in the neighbourhood. Old warehouses and workshops have been transformed into lively artist’s studios and renowned galleries. The district of Williamsburg is easily accessible by subway from Manhattan. Visitors can spend the whole day browsing round the galleries. And there are plenty of little cafés and restaurants when it’s time to take a break. In the evenings the clubs and restaurants offer a huge range of live music. Dumbo is also worth a visit. Brooklyn is home to the BAC gallery, the A.I.R. gallery and the Dumbo Arts Center, as well as one of New York’s most productive theatres, St Ann’s Warehouse. Dumbo actually stands for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass and is situated between Brooklyn Bridge and Man hattan Bridge.

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«New York is the only real city-city.» – Truman Capote –

NYC’s most creative neighbourhood. No other district is home to so many young start-ups.

Hipsters & Artists. Brooklyn has always cast a spell on artists and writers. A huge number of famous people have been born in Brooklyn or lived there for a while. They include Henry and Arthur Miller, Truman Capote, Woody Allen, Norman Mailer, George Gershwin, Barbra Streisand and the gangster Al Capone. Director Spike Lee uses Brooklyn as the local headquarters of his film production company. America’s best-known married writers, Paul Auster and his wife Siri Hustvedt, draw inspiration from Brooklyn for their bestsellers. Brooklyn is quite simply different. Vegetables are grown on factory roofs, the city’s coolest parties are held here and there are thousands of little start-ups and individual stores. It is far removed from 1938, when James Agee described it in his travel journal as a nefarious immigrant neighbourhood. Today Brooklyn is simply hip and cool. Here you can find home-brewed beer from micro-breweries, hand-made chocolate, homemade cheese and miniature g ardens in glass jars. Brooklyn is not only the home of the

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Coney Island The five boroughs of New York including Manhattan could not be more diverse. In one, skyscrapers climb up to the heavens, in another you can relax and have fun on the rollercoasters and beaches. Coney Island is situated at the far south of Brooklyn on the Atlantic and is New York’s only ocean beach. Before the Second World War the rich and beautiful flocked to its casinos and elegant restaurants. It had every kind of attraction and the most luxurious bathing areas. But this luxury is now long gone. Those who can afford it have a house in the Hamptons. Today Coney Island is a place for cheaper pleasures.

hipster, but also of digital doorkeys, home pickled gherkins, Schnapps and an attitude to life that encourages more and more people to go it alone and start their own business. Brooklyn is the neighbourhood where the movers and shakers and the new Bohemians meet.

Good Morning !

london - new york - paris - Milan - berlin - Moscow - beijinG - HonG konG

www.vispring.eu

REBIRTH OF A

HOTEL-

The «Knickerbocker» is an iconic landmark. Formerly known as the «42nd Street Country Club», it was a meeting place for the rich and famous, such as Rockefeller and Scott Fitzgerald.

CULTURE & ART

Chic, modern design meets elegant charm and sophistication.

Location: The iconic building welcomes its famous guests in the heart of Manhattan, directly on Times Square, on the corner of 42nd and Broadway. Its convenient location means that guests at «The Knickerbocker» are just a short stroll from attractions such as the Metropolitan Opera, the Rockefeller Centre and MoMA. Rooms & Suites: «The Knickerbocker» offers its guests a choice of 330 rooms and 40 chic, modern suites. The nine Corner Junior Suites (55 sq m) provide captivating views over Broadway, Times Square and 42nd Street. The beautiful interiors offer guests the ultimate in luxury and privacy. It is hard to believe that the hustle and bustle of New York City is on the streets below your feet.

The rooftop offers the best view over Times Square.

he hotel opened its doors for the first time in 1906 on Times Square. Stars such as Enrico Caruso and George M. Cohan stayed there, and New York’s high society partied like there was no tomorrow at the legendary «42nd Street Country Club» bar. There was good reason why it was said that: «If something happened in New York during the early 1900s, it probably happened at The Knickerbocker …» The hotel welcomed the rich and beautiful, artists and dignitaries. But the dream was soon over. The economic crisis meant that «The Knickerbocker» had to close down in the 1920s. But after more than 90 years, it once again opened its doors to guests this year. «The Knickerbocker» is a monument to New York’s evolution.

Culinary Highlights: Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch or dinner, at «Charlie Palmer» guests can sample good honest American food prepared by star while enjoying spectacular views of Times Square. The dinner menu includes delights such as Fluke Ceviche with grated Meyer lemons and Atlantic halibut with asparagus and carrot puree. And of course there’s the traditional «Knick» burger with braised ribs, beef and pickles. «Jakes @ The Knick» is perfect when you are short of time. It offers a perfect Grab-and-Go option for guests on the move. The absolute highlight is the 725 sq m «St Cloud» bar on the roof terrace. It offers refreshing drinks and spectacular views over central Manhattan. Those lucky enough to spend New Year’s Eve here will enjoy having a close-up view of the legendary ball drop. Wellness & Spa: In «The Knickerbocker’s» Wellness & Spa area, guests can recharge their batteries and relax with a massage. Those who have a little energy left can join a class from Larry Johnson, the hotel’s fitness guru in the Fitness Center. Conclusion: If you were expecting a hotel steeped in history you’ll be disappointed, as nothing remains apart from the wonderful Beaux Arts façade. The hotel has a clean, modern look with a minimalist elegance that is perfectly suited to business travellers and today’s globetrotters. But despite this, the reopening of «The Knick» has revived a hint of New York’s charming old heart. www.LHW.com/knickerbockernyc

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THE

DIAMOND THE NEW YORK

HOTEL INDUSTRY

The «Peninsula», an Art Nouveau gem, is located in the heart of the Big Apple. The five star establishment is the epitome of glamour, luxury and service.

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his grand dame of the New York hotel industry is now 110 years old. This building was built in neo-classical style for the astronomical amount of 2.3 million dollars and was opened as «The Gotham» in 1905. The facade with its limestone plastering, copper cornices and Doric columns was unusual at the time. It was designed to complement the adjoining university club. In 1987 The Peninsula Hotel’s parent company acquired this grand building and celebrated the opening of the first Peninsula Hotel on the Ame rican continent in 1988. Ten years later, 45 million dollars were invested to give the building a complete renovation. In just ten months the turn-of- the-century building was re-cabled insulated and redecorated using the most exquisite materials. Today the «Peninsula Hotel New York» combines Asian and Art Deco styles with state-of-the-art technology.

Salon de Ning

Location: On Fifth Avenue in the heart of Manhattan, the hotel has the world on its doorstep: the most famous museums, the most exciting boutiques and the most spectacular skyscrapers. The Museum of Modern Art is just around the corner from the «Peninsula», and Central Park is just a few minutes’ stroll to the north. And the flagship stores of the best jewellery and fashion designers can be found on Fifth and the nearby Madison Avenue. Rooms & Suites: The «Peninsula» offers its guests 239 rooms and suites. The jewel in the crown is the Peninsula Suite. Covering 307 sq m, it is the most luxurious guest suite at «The Peninsula New York», taking up most of the 19th floor. High above Fifth Avenue with a breathtaking view of the Manhattan skyline, the Peninsula Suite was completely refurbished in summer 2012. It has an urban New York style and offers the ultimate in contemporary comfort.

Culinary Highlights: Culinary treasure hunters are also rewarded at the «Peninsula New York». The «Clement» was refurbished two years ago, and chef Brandon Kida serves his «farm-to-table» cuisine, meaning that all ingredients come from farms in upstate New York. In the atmosphere of a private New York home, he delights his guests with treats such as «Heirloom Beets» (creamy yogurt with a spicy root gazpacho in a light wine vinaigrette); «Scallop Degustation» (fresh scallops with black truffles, savoury celery root and «Woodlands» ham); or «Porcelet» (piglet served with caramelised apples, chestnuts and warm cabbage). The «Gotham Lounge» welcomes you to enjoy a high-class afternoon tea. American Sterling caviar and champagne are served in the chic Art Deco ambience. One of the most gorgeous views is offered by the «Salon de Ning» on the top (23rd) floor of «The Peninsula New York». Asian cuisine and Deutz Rosé champagne, specially created for the «Peninsula», can be enjoyed on one of the two outside terraces. Wellness &Spa: Shopping is tiring, but the «Peninsula» is there to help with its spacious 3,500 sq m Spa Oasis. It takes up the top three floors of the hotel. Ayurvedic, Asian and European massages are on offer in its 12 treatment rooms. Take a swim in the 13-metre pool or jog on the machine while looking out over Manhattan. Conclusion: The hotel has earned every one of its five stars – and more! Its impeccable service is superior to all other hotels. The staff anticipate your every wish, and whatever you expect, you’ll get that little bit more. And this is exactly what makes the «Peninsula» one of the best, if not THE best hotel in New York City. www.peninsula.com

The Clement: one of NYC’s top restaurants.

Simple elegance in the master bedroom.

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IN THE

TIME

CULTURE & ART

PRESENTS

Photographer Nadine Gliesche makes time stand still with her amazing long exposures. Maybe it’s just for a brief moment, but in her photographs time seems to slow right down, and often it’s quite surreal. She even manages to create this illusion in a bustling city like New York. PRESTIGE spoke with the photographer about the city that never sleeps and her passion for long exposures. Yvonne Beck Nadine Gliesche

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hen did you start taking photographs, and how did it come about?

I discovered my passion for photography around nine years ago, but I only do it as a hobby.

What do you like to photograph best of all and why? I love to do long exposures and also enjoy photographing city scenes and natural landscapes. What fascinates me about long exposures is the fact that can make the world seem to stand still. What did you like most about New York? I loved its fast pace. I decided it would be a huge challenge to use my long exposures to make the city that never sleeps go to sleep. How would you describe New York in three words? Life! Life! Life! Where does your love of long exposures come from? For me, long exposures are a kind of meditation. And once I discovered their potential, I just had to push the boundaries of this medium. I’m still pushing! Which camera do you use the most? Canon EOS Mark III.

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Photography is no longer about just releasing the shutter. Now we do a lot at home on the computer. What do you like most about photography? Of course I am really happy when I can convert the image that I have in my mind into reality. But I also like working on the images on my computer, because it allows me to relive the moment once again. What, where or who would you like to photograph and why? I would really like to travel to Iceland with my camera and photograph its waterfalls and hot springs. I’m really fascinated by the fantastic colours and nature over there. How many photographs do you have to take on average until you have the right image? It depends. When I photograph a sunrise I only have limited time because of course the sun doesn’t wait for me to get my act together. Then it’s very technical because it all has to be done in a few seconds. But otherwise I like to take my time. Sometimes I take loads of photos but never end up with one that I’m happy with. Then I just enjoy reality and leave it at that. What does photography mean to you? Meditation. Fun. A journey into the parallel universe. When someone looks at my photos, I want them to let their imagination take flight.

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Photo: 2012, Ascot Elite

CULTURE & ART

An attractive contract killer: Pitt in «Killing Them Softly».

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FOR

Brad Pitt is certainly an established film star, but he is still relatively unknown as a designer, architect and art collector. We reveal a few well-hidden secrets about the reclusive superstar. Dominique Zahnd

veryone knows Brad Pitt from his films – as a gentleman thief in «Ocean’s Eleven», a Nazi hunter in «Inglourious Basterds» and as a zombie killer in «World War Z». But what about his personal life? He tries to keep this as private as he possibly can, and admits: «I don’t really like leaving home». It’s just too much fuss. He also has problems recognising people, so he’s always afraid that he’ll be accused of being arrogant.

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Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt at the 64th Cannes Film Festival.

Shopping tour in Basel He is a great fan of Switzerland. In 2008 he visited «Art» in Basel for the first time, where he took a particular interest in the antique furniture. He reserved a number of exhibited pieces and in the end bought a marble table in Rococo style by Dutch designer Jeroen Verhoeven for 300,000 Swiss francs. In 2009 he returned and bought a 2 x 3 metre oil painting by German artist Neo Rauch amount: 1 million Franken.

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First impressions The first thing you notice about the 51-year-old actor is that he’s taller than you expect. His blonde surfer hair is tied up in a topknot, his blue eyes watchful and curious. His face has its share of fine lines and wrinkles, but Pitt is aging well. It’s interesting to note that he has used the same make-up lady for the past 25 years. She says: «He actually wants people to see how old he is. I find that quite remarkable.» He’s not the man you read about in the gossip magazines. Indeed, Brad Pitt sees himself as just a «normal guy». He wakes without an alarm clock and is always the first up. After cleaning his teeth and enjoying the first coffee of the day, he gets breakfast ready for the kids – and for wife Angelina. At home he spends his days in slippers and overalls, «because they’re practical.»

Family always comes first He’s loves to talk about his children. «I always wanted a big family», he says, «I like the noise and mess.» It’s never quiet in their house, there’s always someone shouting, laughing or crying. Brad is addicted to all this commotion. «I hate it when I have to go away without them», he says. «I need all this chaos around me. It’s what I love most.

That’s why I’m happier now than I’ve ever been.» When Mom and Dad have to work, the whole clan usually goes with them. Pitt laughs: «Cars are never big enough for our family.» When they all go out together, they always use a rental car. «It makes it harder for the paparazzi to recognise us.» It’s quite clear how much he hates the packs of photographers. This large family has homes in California, Spain and Italy. For a long time their main residence was the Château Miraval, on an old vineyard in Provence. The chateau was surrounded by 300 hectares of vineyards and woodland. The family looked after the vines themselves, and in 2012 Brad and Angelina proudly presented their first wine, the «Miraval » Rosé. Apparently it was pretty good. «Wine Spectator» magazine ranked it among its top 100 best wines in the world, describing it as «elegant» with flavours of «dried red berries, mandarins and melons». The smallest bottle sells for 26 Swiss francs. It was Angelina Jolie who turned her partner into a family man. This glamorous pair think alike and share the same priorities. Their focus is always on their children, (at the moment they have six). Dad likes making things with his sons and drawing with his daughters. He simply likes working with his hands. When he’s not filming, he designs furniture and houses. He’s been nominated for four Oscars and twice been voted «Sexiest Man Alive ». But none of this is important to him, family is what really matters. And art. «I often visit museums outside their normal opening hours. It’s a great feeling when you can walk round the galleries on your own.» He is also a keen collector. On the walls of their various houses, the celebrity couple have hung paintings worth in excess of $25 million. They include works by Yayoi Kusama, Marcel Dzama and Banksy.

Creativity is everything Brad Pitt sets no limits to his creativity, whether it is improving scripts or decorating his houses. He did much of the interior design for their house in LA. His love of detail is omnipresent. Director Andrew Dominik («Killing Them Softly») confirms this, saying: «Other movie stars’ homes look like beautiful hotel rooms. But with Brad, it’s all about art. Everything has to go perfectly with everything else. You immediately feel that you’ve entered his world.» The American has always been fascinated by beautiful objects. «I spent my very first acting paycheck on a restored, carved chair and a Frank Lloyd Wright lamp.» And he has been designing and making his own objects since the 1990s. When he married Jennifer Aniston, he designed their wedding rings. And his love of architecture led him to spend time working with top architect Frank Gehry. He used what he learned to set up the «Make It Right» Foundation to help rebuild New Orleans in the wake of the devastation caused by Hurricane Katrina.

Pitt enthuses about family life: «I like the mess.»

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Since then, Pitt has been working with a number of partners on the design of whole hotel complexes. But that’s still not all: in 2012 he brought out his first collection of furniture. It includes dramatic tables, elegant chairs, an exotic bed and a marble bathtub for two people. They were made by Frank Pollaro, whose New Jersey-based company specialises in reproductions of fine Art Deco pieces. The two met when Pitt asked Pollaro to reproduce a Ruhlmann table as a gift for Angelina. When he saw the furniture craftsman’s sketch

book, he spontaneously suggested they should do something together. Pitt has often given Pollaro some surprises. Once he asked him to call round because he had a new idea for a table. And what did the furniture maker find in the actor’s studio? Forty different versions of the table made out of wire. The pair still meet up regularly to spend whole days and nights talking about ideas, designs and materials. «Frank and I have the same tastes. In furniture – and wine.» The striking thing about Brad’s designs is how he uses one continuous line. What was the inspiration behind this? «It started with my introduction to Mackintosh’s Glasgow Rose, which is drawn with one continuous line.» He is swept away by enthusiasm, talking about life, the beginning and the end and the road between the two. He loves to use a wide range of materials. But he has a few particular favourites, such as exotic hardwoods from Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann and Paul Dupré-Lafon. «I like materials that absorb rather than reflect light.» Brad Pitt is clearly someone who does his homework.

Making films is his job, but designing houses is his vocation.

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Understated British Clothing 19 Piccadilly, London W1J 0LA 0207 734 0830 www.cordings.co.uk

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Klimt, Schiele, Kokoschka

Photo: Private Collection, Courtesy Richard Nagy Ltd., London

women’s lib In the early 20th century the traditional relationship between the sexes was called into question by a series of social, economic and philosophical changes. Above all, the first stirrings of gender equality provoked some vehement opposition. Yet sexual liberation was to some extent a joint goal, because it was not only women who were keen to escape the strict moral taboos of the 19th century. Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka all tackled this topic, which at the time was generally described as a «woman’s issue». These three leading lights of the Vienna Secession all approached it in different but intersecting ways. The exhibition at the Belvedere in Vienna takes a close look at these differences and commonalities. It reveals new insights into relations between the sexes in the early 20th century and the origins of modern sexual identity. www.belvedere.at

Affordable The Affordable Art Fair is a unique and truly amazing concept. It provides an accessible, inspiring environment for admiring or purchasing thousands of artworks, all under one roof. Everything from paintings, prints, sculptures and photographs … and no-one has to fork out more than 5000 euros for an original work by a young talent or established artist. AAF in the Netherlands is considered to be THE art fair for contemporary, original art. Its relaxed atmosphere means it is a comfortable place for budding art buyers, but it is also the perfect place for keen collectors to add to their treasures. Figurative or abstract, traditional or avant-garde, the AAF offers a vast array of works from numerous galleries in and around Amsterdam.

Art

www.affordableartfair.com

Oktoberfest «O’zapft is!» It’s Oktoberfest time again! On Saturday Oktoberfest kicks off on the Wiesn with the traditional parade of the tent patrons. One of the highlights is the traditional costume and riflemen’s parade on the first Sunday of the festival. The Wiesn calendar is packed with music, raucous fun and the famous «Maß», the litre tankards of beer that ensure a boisterous atmosphere in the tents and on the surrounding fairground attractions. www.oktoberfest.de

CULTURE & ART

Best sheep

The traditional Shepherd Festival held in Schweigmatten/Furi includes a prize-giving for the most beautiful black-nose sheep and for Shepherd of the Year, who is crowned the previous day. It’s a day for admiring the most beautiful and best-shorn sheep. A varied festive programme guarantees fun for young and old alike. And of course Zermatt’s mascot, Wolli the sheep, will be there to celebrate his birthday. www.zermatt.ch

AUTUMN DIARY Glorious

colours

«Indian summer» is how we describe the last warm days of summer as it slides into autumn. In Canada and New England the trees start to light up in every conceivable shade of crimson, vermillion, gold and copper. The glorious colours of these silent, vast forests are quite unique. Once seen, never forgotten! The colours often coincide with a period of clear blue skies and temperatures that once again rise to 20°C and above. Our mild autumn days in Europe simply can’t compare with North America’s Indian summers. European trees just don’t come close to producing such a huge range of intense colours. The origins of the expression «Indian summer» are not clear, but it seems likely that it stems from Native American mythology. One legend has it that when bears are killed their blood flows into the soil. The trees drink it up and it turns their leaves red. www.neuenglandusa.de & de-keepexploring.canada.travel

Berlin

illuminated

For three weeks in October, the German capital will light up in a blaze of colour as night falls. Berlin Leuchtet and the Festival of Lights will both create a magical atmosphere to accompany the arrival of autumn in Berlin. Key buildings and seven commuter train stations around the city will be illuminated as part of the festival. It will even be possible to travel across Berlin on an illuminated train. It is planned to run seven tours taking visitors around the brightly-lit buildings. www.berlin.de

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THE HIGH-SPEED PAINTER

FRANCK

BOUROULLEC He is one of the world’s best-known speed painters, creating imposing portraits at an almost manic pace. His secret: he always paints his portraits upside down, so the end result can only be seen when he turns them the right way up. Yvonne Beck Volvo Art Session

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Photo: Christian Breitschmid

CULTURE & ART

ranck Bouroullec has long been one of the most famous street artists. He began wielding his can of spray paint on the street when he was 16 years old. He went on to become a storyboard artist and animator. Today Bouroullec is a rock star in artistic circles – he has already painted big names such as George Clooney, Eva Longoria, Beyoncé and Roger Federer. Top global brands have also recognised the Frenchman’s talent and often book him for their events. His biggest project to date has been a work in Vevey in honour of Charlie Chaplin, which he produced on two 43-metre high towers with a total surface area of 1,600 m2. PRESTIGE met the French artist as part of the Volvo Art Session and talked to him about speed, performance and much more

PRESTIGE: You have painted many portraits of celebrities. How did that come about? FRANCK BOUROULLEC: I’ve never sought to paint celebrities. I’m just lucky that they call me and ask for a performance. Of course I don’t say no. I admit I’m a popular artist, most people seem to like my work. And I often do paintings for the "elite". And presumably they pay you well for your work? I can’t complain, but I’m actually looking to do something else. I want to do something that will still be talked about when I’m no longer here.

Why did you do that? Aren’t things going really well? Every week I spend hundreds of hours on planes. And I lose up to half a kilo every time I do a performance. I’m getting older, it’s time I looked after myself a bit more … I also want to focus more on my sense of social responsibility. You lose half a kilo every time you perform. I think that’s because you move about so much when you’re painting. Can you paint when you’re standing still? I can, but I don’t want to. I like painting with my whole body. I like throwing the paint onto the canvas. How would you describe your work? Art? Performance? Speed painting? Well, first of all I don’t think of it as work, but as a kind of passion. There are not many painters who dare to paint live and at speed. So what I do is something special. You have to stand out from the crowd. Is this why you paint your portraits upside down? Yes, exactly. Action painting, speed painting … they already existed, but is anyone painting upside down? Yes, me - Franck Bouroullec. It’s actually not as difficult as people think. You just have to hold your head on one side and move around a lot to distract people’s attention. That’s it! It’s all just a show. People have to see me at work… Do you still get nervous before a performance? Oh yes, very. Look at how my hands are shaking (he laughs). No, seriously, I’m really nervous before I perform.

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Every stroke of the brush is intuitive. It’s probably difficult for other people to understand what I’m thinking when I’m painting. I don’t think about the process. My goal is to finish in a particular time. Today’s challenge is to paint 30 square metres and a car in 2.5 hours. What are you doing for the Volvo Art Session? For me, it’s always the journey that counts: my working process is a kind of creative brainstorming about contemporary luxury. Clashing geometric forms that eventually overlap tell the story of my creative process - like a culture that people still remember even when it is long gone. I use high-tech elements to highlight the intelligent way that the Volvo brand picks up on new technologies and continues to develop them. In art it is normal to reinterpret things in pictures. Some people can spend hours philosophising about a green square. What do you think about that? I put thought into all my works, but I hate it when I’m constantly expected to hold intellectual debates. For me, art is simply about being the first to have an idea. I’ve never seen anyone painting upside down, so it seemed like a good idea to try it out. But you don’t just paint upside down, you also paint incredibly fast … I began as an animator for Disney. I was drawing 60 pictures a day for 3 seconds of film - that’s had an effect on me. And when I was a young boy I saw an artist painting a

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portrait of Jimi Hendrix. His paintbrush was flying around all over the canvas. I found it really fascinating, and now this is how I express myself too. But I don’t just want to be known as a speed painter. In Vevey you have decorated two high-rise blocks in deprived areas. Why did you do that? I think you shouldn’t have to live in ugly surroundings just because you don’t have much money. A whole district can be upgraded simply by giving it a little colour and art. I decorated the two blocks with pictures of Charlie Chaplin. He died in Vevey and had close ties to the area. I met the Chaplin family beforehand and they showed me some pictures from their archives that I had never seen before. How long did this project take? I spent 8 weeks painting a surface of 860 square metres. I used 500 litres of paint and loads of brushes, rollers and sticky tape. Now it is the highest fresco in Europe. I think I’m now being taken seriously as an artist. The name Bouroullec is no longer only linked to design. Are you related to the other famous Bouroullecs? Yes, the Bouroullec brothers - Ronan and Erwan – are my cousins. Do you have any artistic role models? I don’t emulate any other artist in my work, but I do admire Leonardo da Vinci and Jackson Pollock.

CULTUREâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;&â&#x20AC;&#x2030;ART

THE AMONG THE

VIOLINS She nestles gracefully against your face, a capricious beauty ready to bestow a musical kiss. Sounds are teased from her strings, soft as the rustling of a poplar, wild as a tarantella, rocking out then wistful as they cast their spell over the listener. Violin makers have been crafting their masterpieces for five hundred years. Helena Ugrenovic

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milia Romagna is a fertile region that could be compared to a gleaming pearl necklace. It is the birthplace of famous personalities such as Luciano Pavarotti, Giorgio Armani, Federico Fellini, Enzo Ferrari, Ferruccio Lamborghini and Giuseppe Verdi. One of the wealthiest regions of Italy, it is also home to the white, brown and red gold that - just like the violin – truly beguiles the senses. Parmigiano Reggiano is the only food whose texture does not change when it is in outer space. The red terracotta buildings in enchanting cities such as Bologna and Modena, with their arcades and World Heritage treasures, have doors that open on to secret gardens and warm Italian hospitality. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena or di Reggio Emilia – this dark brown delicacy is drizzled sparingly over just about every kind of food, sweet and savoury alike. The violin – an instrument full of secrets and stories.

Where the nightingale sings It is said that Antonius Stradivarius would only use the wood of trees where the nightingale sang to make his unique instruments. In the 16th century in Cremona, a town in Lombardy close to the border with Emilia Romagna, Nicolo Amati and his students Antonio Stradivari and Joseph Guarneri del Gesùcreated masterpieces whose mysteries still inspire the quest for perfection. Where does their astounding tone come from? Is it the characteristic curve of the body that is typical of Amati violins, the choice of wood, its thickness or the legendary varnish used by Stradivari – but which no-one has ever been able to recreate?

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A heaven full of violins The buildings shimmer red and gold in the old town of Bologna, UNESCO City of Music. Bruno Stefanini’s workshop on the Via Delle Belle Arti smells of wood and dedication. Bruno Stefanini is one of five violin makers in Bologna. It takes him 200 hours of devotion to build one violin. So how do you create the perfect tone? «The quality of the wood, of course», replies Stefanini. «But also taking meticulous care with the varnish, the final construction and the adjustment of the instrument.» Brescia, Cremona and Absam in Austria were the birthplaces of Italian violin making and exerted a major influence over this art. Although Cremona is still considered to be the temple of violin making, cities such as Milan, Bologna, Florence, Genoa, Piacenza, Naples and Turin are also major centres.

The elite

Lady Blunt Stradivari from 1721.

Stradivari and Guarneri have left the world exquisite violins that sell for millions when they appear in the sales rooms. The «ex-Kochanski» Guarneri del Gesù created in 1741 was sold in 2009 for 7.3 million euros. Stradivari’s «ex-Ries», «Dolphin» and «ex-Szigeti», created between 1693 and 1724, went under the hammer for between 3.5 and 4.3 million euros. Guarneri’s «Lord Wilton», «ex-Carrodus» and «ex-Kochanski» from 1741– 42 sold for 4.3, 5.1 and 7.3 million euros. The «Vieuxtemps» is currently up for sale at 20 million dollars. The absolute queen of these precious violins is the «Lady Blunt» Stradivari from 1721, which was sold for 11.6 million euros at a charity auction.

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COLUMN

WILHELM J. GRUSDAT

FROM THE LIFE OF A GALLERY OWNER: WE DO IT ALL. Dali literally possessed the key to a good night’s sleep. Whenever the Surrealist master needed a touch of inspiration, he took a little nap. He would sit down and hold a heavy iron key between his thumb and index finger. When he dropped off, the key would crash to the floor and wake him up. Einstein also used to do this – perhaps Dali stole the idea from him? In fact we spend one third of our days sleeping. Sleep is the most personal thing in the world. Apparently we reveal our personalities through our choice of sleeping position. People who sleep on their backs are full of confidence. People who sleep on their stomachs are control freaks, while those who sleep in the foetal position tend to be flexible and capable of handling everything that life throws at them. This also applies to couples’ sleeping positions. Couples have a good relationship if they still like «spooning». All other positions mean that the couple is gradually becoming more independent. When this theory first emerged some couples desperately began spooning, only to find they couldn’t sleep. Nothing is more individual than sleep. It is a remarkable state that has fascinated artists through the ages. Andy Warhol spent eight hours watching his boyfriend, John Giorno, sleeping. This produced Warhol’s first film, Sleep, which certainly had a soporific effect on his audiences. Nothing is more boring than watching someone sleeping. But a few years ago, crowds flocked to MoMA to see British actress Tilda Swinton sleeping in a glass box. Is there anything more wonderful than watching a beautiful woman sleeping?

I remember Douglas Kirkland’s photos of Marilyn Monroe lounging seductively on her snow white sheets. Robert Rauschenberg used bed linens very differently. In 1955 the muse suddenly took him when he had no canvas to hand, so he simply used his sheets to create one of his first Combine paintings. His work «Bed» was a comment on the art world, which at the time only considered certain painting methods to be worthy of the name art. But it is also a self-portrait, as the rumpled bedding and crumpled pillows reveal an impression of the artist’s body.

«Is there anything more wonderful than watching a beautiful woman sleeping?» Unfortunately we can’t all be like Marilyn Monroe and just go to bed in Chanel No. 5. They make me feel a little like Picasso, who loved to sashay around his Paris apartment in silk pyjamas. And if I’m lucky maybe I’ll find a scrumptious chocolate under my pillow – apparently this is how Cary Grant won over the ladies.

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CULTURE & ART

ELITE

UNIVERSITIES WHERE WORLD LEADERS ARE FORGED Top universities create the world’s elite. Lone K. Halvorsen

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CULTURE & ART

here is tough competition for places at the world’s top universities. After all, the university you attended is a key factor when you’re looking for a job. They promise tradition, first-class research and teaching and exorbitant tuition fees. But tradition is also a harbinger of success. Students who graduate from elite universities tend to find themselves in demand in the international jobs market. And these universities provide a fertile breeding ground for future Nobel laureates.

1 | Harvard University, USA Harvard is considered to be the cradle of the American intellect, the New World’s academic Mount Olympus. It is also the oldest university in the USA. It was founded in 1636 by Puritans who had fled England, and three years later it was named after English clergyman John Harvard. He was its first patron and benefactor, leaving his whole fortune and private library to the university upon his death. The university has produced more than 40 Nobel laureates. But anyone who is keen to attend seminars with such luminaries and enjoy cosy fireside chats with world leaders has to come up with something special in order to gain entry. The admissions panel is looking for visionaries and rising stars, but drop-outs can succeed too, as demonstrated by Mark Zuckerberg of Facebook fame.

2 | Princeton University, USA Princeton was founded as the College of New Jersey in 1746. When the school was awarded university status in 1896, it was renamed Princeton University after its new location in Princeton. Its motto is «Die sub numine viget» («Under the protection of God she flourishes»). The university has close ties to the Presbyterian Church but no longer requires its students to have a particular religious affiliation. Albert Einstein gave lectures at the university, which has produced an extraordinarily high number of Nobel laureates in Mathematics and Physics.

3 | Stanford University, USA With 22 Nobel laureates and five winners of the Pulitzer Prize, Stanford University is one of the USA’s top universities. A private university, it was founded by Jane and Leland Stanford in memory of their only son, who died tragically at a young age of typhoid fever. A self-made man, Leland Stanford entered the history books when he was elected the eighth governor of California. He became known for his outstanding intellectual ability and extraordinary talent for business. Stanford graduate Fred Terman later returned there to teach and became the university’s Provost. He came to be known as the «father of Silicon Valley». By encouraging students to start their own businesses in the local area, he laid the foundations for the close ties between Stanford University and Silicon Valley companies.

4 | Oxford University, England

Oxford is known as a city of learning and knowledge, home to one of the world’s oldest and most famous universities. The university’s history reads like a «Who’s Who» of prominent people: 6 kings, 46 Nobel laureates, 25 British prime ministers and 5 presidents have passed through its doors. And that’s without mentioning its many other great alumni, such as Lord Byron, T.S Eliot, Oscar Wilde and J.R.R. Tolkien, to name but a few. England’s two most famous universities, Oxford and Cambridge are embroiled in a centuries-old rivalry. This is played out every year on the Thames, with rowing eights from the two universities battling it out in the traditional «Boat Race».

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CULTURE & ART

6 | University of California Berkeley, USA

7 5 | Cambridge University, England In 1209 a violent episode caused a rift between «town» and «gown» in Oxford. This led to many students and professors fleeing to Cambridge and setting up a new university. For centuries, Cambridge University has been a leading university in Maths and Science, so it is hardly surprising that its alumni include Charles Darwin, Isaac Newton and Stephen Hawking. Prince Charles also attended for a few years before continuing his studies in Wales. The eternal rivalry between Oxford and Cambridge is not just measured by who can row the fastest on the Thames, but also in numbers of Nobel laureates: Oxford has 46, while Cambridge can claim 88.

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Diversity has always been a cornerstone of UC Berkeley. It prides itself on its tolerance and political liberalism, its international student body and high academic standards. The main university rankings consistently list it as the best public university in the USA, and it is nipping at the heels of the smaller, elite private universities. The University of California, Berkeley, or UC Berkeley, was founded in 1868. Every year, more students gain their doctorates here that at any other university in the USA. It is known around the world for the excellent quality of its teaching and research, and many of its researchers and professors have won Nobel prizes.

7 | Yale University, USA Yale University, USA Yale is not just a university, but an elite institution that is constantly admitting new generations to its ranks. When it was founded in 1701, its goal was to provide a scientific education comparable to that available in Europe, and increasingly it aims to produce the leaders of the future. Yale has a particularly good reputation in the Humanities and Social Science, though it is also strong in Natural Science. Yale graduates are following in the footsteps of many famous alumni, including Hillary Clinton, George W. Bush, Jodie Foster and 20 Nobel laureates.

THE MOST FAMOUS VAMPIRE IN CINEMA HISTORY CHRISTOPHER LEE

«Dracula», «The Curse of Frankenstein», «Star Wars», «Lord of the Rings», «The Hobbit»: just a handful of the 280 films in which Christopher Lee - who died in June aged 93 - acted or played voiceover roles. He was showered with awards during his long career, and even given an entry in the Guinness Book of Records. He was one of the most successful actors of all time, with the most film and TV credits to his name. His greatest triumph came in 1958 when he played Dracula in the film of the same name. He went on to make another seven Dracula films and gained cult status before finally giving up the role. Even today, Christopher Lee is still generally associated with the bloodthirsty vampire. At 6’5" (1.96 metres) tall, he was often cast in powerful or villainous roles. He felt the most important role he ever played was in «Jinnah» (1998), in which he played Muhammad Ali Jinnah, who fought for Indian independence and became the founder of Pakistan. Lee found it particularly interesting to spend ten weeks filming in a foreign culture and felt the film was important because of the way it approached Islam.

4 QUOTES «To be a legend, you’ve either got to be dead or excessively old.» «What’s really important for me is, as an old man, I’m known by my own generation and the next generation know me, too.»

He made his film debut at the age of 26 in the drama «Corridor of Mirrors». His big break came ten years later when he made a name for himself in film classics such as «The Private Life of Sherlock Holmes» (1970), and the Bond movie «The Man with the Golden Gun» (1974). In the late Seventies, Lee and his wife Gitte Kroencke, a Danish model and actress, moved to Hollywood with their daughter Christina. He spent 20 years working on numerous projects in the USA before finally returning to London, his home town. In 2009 he was knighted by Prince Charles, the son of Queen Elizabeth, at Buckingham Palace. He was now a member of the aristocracy and could officially call himself Sir Christopher Lee. But he kept on working and soon became a familiar face to younger generations thanks to his work on the «Lord of the Rings» trilogy and «The Hobbit». Despite holding a world record and being the recipient of numerous awards, he never won an Oscar. On 7 June, Christopher Lee’s 68-year career as an actor, singer and autobiographical author came to an end when he passed away in hospital from respiratory and heart ailments.

«Every actor has to make terrible films from time to time, but the trick is never to be terrible in them.» «People sometimes come up to me, and they say, I’ve seen all your films, Mr Lee , and I say, Oh no, you haven’t. »

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TRAVEL

HOLIDAY LIKE IN

FAIRYTALES COME TRUE

The Sultanate of Oman surprises you with its golden dunes, magical beaches and unique culture. The logo of the best kept secret in the Indian Ocean is «Beauty has an address». Text: Sara Berg

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he light from the setting sun paints the sheer never ending dunes a deep red. The biggest sandy surface cloaks itself in silence. The Omani smiles. He knows the Rub al-Khali like the back of his hand. The desert is alien to the visitor. It forces him to step outside the world of hustle and bustle and to go inward. The feeling is unique, overwhelming.

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The Best of Both Worlds With its hustle and bustle, the capital reflects the past and the present of the country. Almost half of the Omani population lives here. The Omanis are proud of what they have built in the past 40 years under the reign of Sultan Qaboos: today they live in a modern state in harmony with their old traditions. So the capital Muscat offers the visitor best of both the worlds. A stroll along the seaside promenade promises a cultivated Mediterranean flair, exciting museum exhibitions and architectural masterworks from the past invite you to stay and linger.

The Desert Lives The Rub al-Khali means «the empty quarter» in Arabic. An apt name, but the desert encompasses a large part of the Arabian peninsula. It is one of the few areas in the world that has not yet been fully explored. And that is what it makes it more appealing. The intoxicating view of the almost endless sand dunes, shimmering like gold in the searing light, makes the visitor pause for a moment. Stress and the hectic pace are forgotten, problems suddenly appear utterly trivial. As a visitor, you experience the friendliness, openness and the inner calm of the people of Oman when they welcome you. One is truly a guest here. Relaxing over a cup of tea, you get to know the unique culture of Oman. But even those who wish for more action during their holiday get their money’s worth in Oman: close to Muscat, the capital city, in the «Bawshar Sands», the sonorous sounds of the four-wheel buggies cut through the gentle silence of the desert. SUVs and quads make their way through the golden dunes and drive very fast through the fine sand. In the evening light, you can marvel at the white buildings of Muscat, which reflect the wonder ful green of the surrounding hills and cloak the city in a mysterious glow.

One of these buildings is the large Sultan Qaboos Mosque. Located directly on the main street, it exercises almost a magnetic pull on the visitor and brings him in contact with the spirit of Islam as a religion, science and culture. The huge prayer house, which took 6 years to build, has an area of 416‚000 square metres for 20‚000 worshippers to pray. The central dome of the main prayer hall rises 50 metres above the ground and has a stunning Swarovski crystal chandelier. It took 600 weavers 27 months to weave the Persian carpet that covers the floors. It has 1.7 million knots and weighs a whopping 21 tonnes. Non-Muslims are allowed to visit the impressive building: it is open Sunday to Thursday until 11 am. Please wear appropriate clothing. It is certainly well-worth a visit – so are the royal palace of Al Alam and the forts of Al Jalali and Al Mirani, which sit high atop rocks outside the city.

Hustle Bustle in Market Traditions and customs run like a common thread through all of Oman’s landmarks. One however feels its traces very strongly in the oasis city of Nizwa, which was the capital and religious centre of the country in the 12th century. The magical city nestles in the middle of a breathtaking mountain landscape and is a cultural highlight of every visit. It is lively and colourful here – especially when the merchants tout their wares at the extraordinary souk. In addition to jewellery, traditional clothes, antiques and hand-woven Bedouin carpets, a very special souvenir can be bought here as a present for loved ones at home: the «khanjar», a curved dagger made of silver and ivory, which is still being made in traditional craft enterprises just as it was 200 years ago. It is not only a fashionable accessory but is an integral part of the traditional costume in the Sultanate. High above the city sits the largest fort on the entire Arabian peninsula. The fort is the architectural testimony to the economic and military success of the early Yaruba dynasty in the mid-17th century. Its watchtower has a diameter of 45 metres and towers above other fortifications by 34 metres. The steps concealed in the inner courtyard lead the visitor to a balustrade from where he can view the entire city. Nicely renovated quarters dot the shabbier streets, a symbol for the blending of the modern with the traditional. The view of the large Friday mosque with its golden dome makes up wonderfully for the now aching feet.

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races, which are partly organised by the royal house, it’s not just the riders but also the powerful animals who compete.

Beach & Ocean Time to relax on the beach. With its long, fine sandy beaches, tropical bays and towering cliffs rising from the ocean, Oman is an ideal place for those who enjoy being near water. Dhofar Goveronate is characterised by attractive beaches, noted for the purity of sand and magnificent cliffs. Hundreds of flamingos romp around here, which give the lagoons their gaudy pink look. Even many dolphins and whales are drawn to this coastal region. Porpoises, grey dolphins and beaked whales jump happily through the waves, while the visitor watches them spellbound, fascinated by the unbelievable beauty of the nature. The visitor also gets to experience the immense marine biodiversity: sea horses glide like magical beings through the clear water, gaily coloured corals nestle on the ocean floor, hundreds of colourful fishes float through the unspoiled depths of water. Those who come at the right time of the year can also marvel at the sea turtles making their way to the spawning ground. Thousands of marine reptiles migrate annually from the shores of the Gulf of Arabia, the Red Sea and Somalia to lay their eggs on the beaches of Oman. A very special attraction is night turtle viewing in the nature reserve «Ras Al Jinz», which is around 30 kilometres east of the city Sur. The reserve offers the animals a quiet place to lay their eggs, securing their continued existence.

Camel racing is also popular and follows more or less the same rules. Camels, the «ships of the desert» have played a vital role in the region over thousands of years. They were used as a means of travel, for food and shelter, but have also being used for entertaining from time immemorial. Today camel racing has evolved into a professional sport. The Omanis use the latest technology and spare no expense to see their animal winning the title race. Golf is relatively a new sport in Oman. Muscat now has three 18 hole golf courses: Almouj Golf, the Ghala Valley Golf Course and the Muscat Hills Golf & Country Club. As the sport is becoming increasingly popular among Omanis and tourists, a few more Golf courses are expected to be launched in the future.

Non-Stop Flight to your Dream Holiday Only six and a half hours of flight separate the grey everyday from the dream holiday like in 1001 Nights: Oman Air flies four times a week from Switzerland to the Sultanate of Oman.

Ships of the Desert, Thorough-Bred Riders and the Perfect Shot The passion for animals however does not just extend to the wildlife species, which enjoy special protection in Oman. In Islam, horses enjoy a special status; they symbolise integrity and pride. The Sultanate has many excellent horse studs and is famous for raising, breeding and devoted care. In the annual horse

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www.omanair.com www.omantourism.com www.omantourism.gov.om

THE MOTHER OF CHIMPANZEES JANE GOODALL In 1960, Jane Goodall, the primatologist, began to study the behaviour of chimpanzees in Tanzania. Jane Goodall is a peace loving, modest, energetic and, also, a determined woman, who decided to initiate an ethical revolution in some of the academic disciplines. In addition to Diane Fossey (gorillas), Biruté Galdikas (orangutans), she is one of the third women who began longterm studies on great apes at the suggestion of the paleontologist Louis Leakkey. It was hoped that these study could shed light on the behaviour of prehistoric humans. Now for the last 50 years, Jane Goodall has not only provided accurate scientific findings, but has also been a perfect example of how one should treat humans, animals and nature – our environment – with respect and love. Many findings on chimpanzees are attributed to Jane Goodall’s studies. She discovered that chimpanzees were capable of using tools. The chimpanzees break branches and use them to fish termites from their mounds. They also use stones as hammer and anvil to break open nut shells.

In addition, Goodall also found out that chimpanzees eat meat and even hunt collectively other monkey species and attack in groups other groups of chimpanzees. Goodall was one of the first researchers who gave the animals she observed names instead of numbers. This practice did not meet with the approval of the scientific community, as it was said that the objectivity would be lost – and also because previously Jane Goodall had worked «only» as a secretary and a waitress and lacked university education. Since then, many scientists have followed Goodall’s example. Today Goodall supports alternatives to animal testing and is vehemently against any cruelty towards animals.

5 QUOTES

«We need money to live but we should not live for money.»

«The least I can do is speak out for those who cannot speak for themselves.» «If everybody would have the same standard of living like an average European or American, we would need six planets.» «If we take the future seriously, then we must stop leaving it to others, instead we must ourselves become active.»

«You can change something – everyday and at any time!»

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IRELAND’S

LIGHTHOUSES

Ireland is an island, so it’s hardly surprising that you will find many lighthouses here. The real surprise lies in their fascinating histories.

MIZEN HEAD

CLOGHAN CORK COUNTY

Wild Atlantic Way is Ireland’s southernmost point. It is a place of extremes. In 1908, these proved to be deadly. Back then, «SS Trada» was shipwrecked here. On that day, the attendant lighthouse keeper and the workers saved 68 lives. Today a bridge with high walls ensures that visitors cross the tumultuous sea safely to reach the signal station. Also worth seeing: Treat yourself to lunch in Durrus, which is 33.5 km away from the Mizen lighthouse. The famous Durrus cheese comes from this small village.

BLACKHEAD LIGHTHOUSE WHITEHEAD BAY ANTRIM COUNTY

Blackhead Lighthouse is located on the north shore of Belfast Lough. It is an ideal location to see ships such as the «Titanic», the «Olympic» and the «Britannic» setting sail from Belfast. Thanks to the Irish Landmark Trust, you can stay overnight at the Lightkeeper’s House. Look out for the secret tunnel. During stormy weather, the lighthouse keepers used it as a passageway between the lighthouse and the house. ALSO WORTH SEEING: Titanic Belfast located 25.5 kms away from the Blackhead Lighthouse. The exhibition which has the same name as the city offers a stunning interactive insight into the myths and realities of the «Ship of Dreams».

FANAD LIGHTHOUSE FANAD DONEGAL COUNTY

Fanad Lighthouse was built in 1811. It was constructed in response to «HMS Saldanha» being shipwrecked. It is reported that only the ship’s parrot survived. Since then Fanad Lighthouse has saved many lives. If the locals are to be believed, the lighthouse is higher than the Eiffel tower. It stands at the west shore of the peninsula Fanad Head. ALSO WORTH SEEING: On the same peninsula, in Doaghbeg, stands the Great Arch, an impressive sea cliff with an opening formed by the Atlantic. So take your camera and take pictures for your loved ones at home.

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RUE POINT, RATHLIN EAST LIGHTHOUSE & RATHLIN WEST LIGHTHOUSE RATHLIN ISLAND ANTRIM COUNTY

Sailors demanded a lighthouse on Rathlin lsland for the first time in 1827. Today there are three. In a cave under the West Lighthouse, Robert the Bruce, the King of Scotland from 1306–1329, is said to have learnt perseverance from a tiny spider. With its modest 11 metres, Rue Point, an unmanned lighthouse, is the smallest of the three. Also worth seeing: A colony of seals at Mill Bay and the RSPB Seabird Centre make Rathlin a favourite destination for animals and bird lovers. Here you can discover razor bills, puffins and kittiwakes, among other things.

BLACKSOD LIGHTHOUSE

ERRIS MAYO COUNTY 3rd June 1944. Rough weather conditions prevent the Allies from start the D-Day landings. On 4th June, whilst the commanders are busy poring over each and every available weather report, information is received from a weather station on the northwest coast of Ireland. The message says that the weather conditions will improve. The decision is made. Two days later, landings are initiated and the Blacksod Lighthouse and its keeper Edward «Ted» Sweeney will go down in the 20th century history as a small but a significant footnote. ALSO WORTH SEEING: Céide Fields, 61 kms from Blacksod and just few metres away from the Atlantic. At 6000 years, it is the oldest «Stone Age monument» of the world. Houses, tombs and field systems stretch across over thousands of hectares.

HOOK HEAD LIGHTHOUSE FETHARD-ON-SEA WEXFORD COUNTY

In its almost 800 years of history Hook Head has seen many things. For example, it was named by the Lonely Planet as one of the 10 most beautiful lighthouses in the world. Records show that in the 5th century a Welsh monk kept a beacon lit here to warn sailors of possible shipwrecks. ALSO WORTH SEEING: Do we owe the phrase «by hook or by crook» to Hook Head and the small village Crooke, which lies 68 kms away? Some say yes. Visit the village and decide for yourself.

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TRAVEL

GLORIOUS VIEW, STUNNING,

Do you wish to cool off? Then dive into the most beautiful hotel pools, which blend with the horizon, which offer you breathtaking views of nature and the rooftops of the city – or are just fantastically fabulous The best part is you do not need to go on a world trip to enjoy these pools. They all are located in Europe. Yvonne Beck

1 1 | PRIESTEREGG Loegang, Autria At at an altitude of 1,100 metres, the guests are a bit closer to heaven in the 14 metre long, heatable infinity pool of the Willy Bogner chalet and have a view of the mountains and the Leogang valley. www.priesteregg.at

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2 | PORTOROŽ AND PIRAN Slovenia More from the sea: «Lepa Vida», the thalasso open-air spa, which is located in a disused part of the saltpans, harnesses the healing power of the sea and creates a sense of well-being in the heated saltwater pool in the middle of nature. www.portoroz.si/de 3 | DAS TEGERNSEE Tegernsee, Germany DAS TEGERNSEE is located on a southern slope with a magnificent view of the Tegernsee lake. Against a backdrop of the impressive mountains, the hotel and spa guests relax daily from 7:00 am to 10:00 pm. www.dastegernsee.de

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4 | BARCELÓ ASIA GARDENSHOTEL & THAI SPA Alicante, Spain No, we are not in Asia. Located on the Spanish coast, this tropical garden has seven pools invite you to cool off. These pools cover a water surface of 3500 square metres. www.asiagardens.e

5 | HOTEL QUELLE NATURE SPA RESORT Gsies Valley, Italy Gsies Valley in South Tyrol is a true insider tip. Once you are in the natural swimming pond everyday stress ebbs away quickly. The pond offers a view of the surrounding Dolomites. Pure relaxation. www.hotel-quelle.com

6 | BARCELÓ SANTIAGO Puerto Santiago, Spain The bathing belles treat themselves to a ref reshing time-out on the volcanic island, which boasts a fantastic view of Los Gigantes and the soft murmur of the Atlantic ocean. www.barcelo.com 7 | BARCELÓ RAVAL Barcelona Spain The spectacular roof terrace of the futuristic hotel delights you not only with a panoramic view of the Catalan metropolis, but also with a pool and a cocktail bar. www.barcelo.com/raval The Luxury Way of Life | 85

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8 | HOTEL MONTE MULINI Rovinj, Croatia Swimming fun in the sea: the pool of the five-star hotel Monte Mulini, located in the picturesque Istria, seems to blend seamlessly with the azure Adriatic Sea. www.montemulinihotel.com

9 | DAS.GOLDBERG Bad Hofgastein, Austria Set against the backdrop of the Hohe Tauern mountains, the natural bathing pool with its white sandy beach invites you to beach clubbing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; barbecue specialities and cocktails create the right mood. www.dasgoldberg.at 10 | ADLER MOUNTAIN LODGE Seiser Alm, Italy The panorama pool lies suspended like a mountain lake over the Alpine meadow of Seiser Alm. The surrounding Dolomites reflect proudly in the heated brine water. www.adler-lodge.com 11 | VILA VITA PARC Porches, Portugal Surrounded by 22 hectares of a subtropical park with around 5000 palms, fragrant flowers and exotic plants, the residents of the Vila Praia completely lose themselves in their private infinity pool which faces the Atlantic. www.vilavitaparc.com

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DID YOU KNOW…? Invented in England In the 19th century, the English academics invented the name «Indonesia». Until then, the archipelago, which stretched from Asia to Australia, was called East Indies or Spice Islands. The game «Rock, Paper, Scissors», which is also popular among us, is played in Indonesia, but in their version, an earwig wins over the elephant and the person. The elephant crushes the person, the person crushes the earwig and the earwig crawls into the elephant’s brain and drives him mad. Indonesia has a total population of 230 million and is thus the fourth largest in the world after China, India and the USA. 47 million people live in Sumatra alone.

In Search of Eternal Life King Qin Shihuangdi, the man behind the Terracotta Army and the Great Wall of China, could have anything he wanted. As the First Emperor of the united China, he enjoyed everything that the 3rd century had to offer – ancient historians report that a 45 kilometre long and comfortable walkway led from his palace to the top of a holy mountain, while his doors were fitted with metal detectors. But there was one thing that he could not have and that is what finally killed him. When the king grew older, he sent hundreds of messengers to search for the elixir of life, but it was all in vain. Instead he took mercury tablets prescribed by his doctors, which soon poisoned him.

Liquid Wealth In 1938, Kuwait’s vast oil field Burgan was discovered. This is the place where the oil flows so generously that it literally gushes out of the ground. It’s where the Arabian oil boom began. And although Kuwait is hardly bigger than Upper Bavaria, it still holds 10 per cent of the world’s oil reserves. Over the years, the nation has accrued 175 billion euros with its oil operations. In 1991, when Saddam Hussein retreated from Kuwait, his soldiers set fire to 600 oil wells. Until the fires were extinguished, the wells burned daily approximately 950 million litres of oil – well over what was burnt during the entire three months of the «Deepwater Horizon» oil spill.

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INSIDER TIPS

A journey to Vienna takes you to a cosmopolitan city with a historical flair. From cultural attractions to the legendary coffee culture, the Austrian metropolis has plenty to offer. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Schönbrunn Castle, the Ferris wheel in Prater, Vienna’s large amusement park, and Secession building are only some of the highlights of the city. In addition to visiting the Spanish Riding School, the Burgtheater and the Hundertwassser building, you are allowed to shop to your heart’s content.

Daily Care with Style At Walter Weiss, the long-standing customers, quality-conscious buyers and nostalgics keep coming and going. Everybody is searching for «the daily care with style». You will be hard put to find so many shaving appurtenances anywhere else: bushy shaving brushes, all kinds of shaving creams, countless accessories for the classical wet shave or badger bristle shaving brushes for the sensitive skin. A gem on the shopping street. www.walterweiss.atwww.walterweiss.at

Finest of Linen The company «Zur Schwäbischen Jungfrau» has a long tradition. It owes its name to a linen trader who moved from Swabia to Vienna in 1720. His three daughters sold the finest of linen at the market place. The company became the Imperial & Royal Court supplier and Sisi slept on lace bedding supplied by them. Even today it offers the finest of quality and the best of service. Spread on three floors, you can browse through linen and damask fabrics by the yard, kitchen, table and bed linen and terry cloth products. And even today it supplies to the nobility all over the world – for instance to the Malaysian royalty and the Sultan of Pahang. www.schwaebische-jungfrau.at

Handmade for the Feet At Wieselmann’s, every customer receives his / her own shoe last und has to go for three trial fittings, but gets a custom-made shoe in return. Here shoes are custom made to last a lifetime. It takes up to 60 hours to make individual pieces, which can cost up to 3500 euros.

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www.wieselmann.org

Cabinets of Wonder of the Analogous Future Florian Kaps, founder of Supersense, is the saviour of the analogous image culture. He obtained the last of the Polaroid factory in the Netherlands. In his shop in Leopoldstadt, you can buy nostalgic cameras and films rolls. You will find pretty souvenirs stacked next to the Super-8 cameras and Polaroid film rolls. You can record your own vinyl single in a small recording studio for 15 euros. The analogous world lives on! www.supersense.com

Stamped In Stempel Lobenhofer, one is surrounded by nostalgic numbering machines, hand stamps, bread stamps on wood pegs and enamel signs. The company has been family-owed since 1912 and is devoted primarily to the profession of flexography and engraving. Upon request, individual pieces can be manufactured. There are no bounds to creativity. Address: Hofmühlgasse 1, 1060 Vienna

The Unusual Shopping Guide! Vienna proves that cliches about it are correct: grumpy waiters, horse-drawn carriages, enormous schnitzel, souvenirs of Sisi at every second corner. But in reality it is much more than that, because Vienna is different – that’s the slogan of the city. Many specialised companies with a long tradition can still be found in the winding lanes, creative young people are taking over vacant business premises. An attractive blend, which underlines Vienna’s slogan and merges development with the past. The new Vienna stands apart from the large shopping streets.

Flag Twirling

111 shops in Vienna that you have to experience Katrin Hofmann Emons: Publisher

If you are looking for banners, streamers, table banner or flags, then Fahnen Christl is the right place to visit. Whether for patriots, national holidays or pirate flags for the kids, this is the right address for you. In this small shop, you will find over 200 different flags and many colourful patches. By the way: while the national flag is one of a kind, other flags are replaceable and can be manufactured in different sizes. www.fahnenchristl.at

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MALDIVES

A JOURNEY TO PARADISE

TRAVEL

Around 1,200 islands and islets are spread over 21 atolls. Approximately 235 islands are inhabited. The Maldives is unique in every way – both under water and on land. Yvonne Beck

t is heaven on earth – and the Garden of Eden under water. The Maldives is an archipelago with names which the visitors do not find easy to pronounce: Ihavandippholu, Maamakunudhu, Kaashidhu, Alifushi or Haddunmath. The names may be difficult for Europeans to pronounce, but it is easy to relax here: the snow-white sand beaches, deep green palm groves, and fragrance of flowers are the backdrop of the small islands and their resorts, where you can indulge yourself.

Small Paradise Islands Each island is a small kingdom, whose large, colourful treasure chambers open up when you go diving and snorkelling. In the reefs, colourful fishes entertain themselves in unusual shaped corals and flower gardens – a magnificent spectacle, which surpasses every fantasy. Unforgettable impressions: manta rays silently glide past divers like bizarre shadows. Large schools of fishes performing an exclusive ballet, which is perfect in its choreography, just for snorkellers. In addition to all of this, the large, gentle whale sharks make their way unperturbed. When one lands in Malé, one is a bit disoriented at first. High-rise buildings, heavy traffic – an island that seems to be bursting at its seams. The capital city of the Republic is efficient and far from the picturesque beaches and dreams of holidays. But a short flight to the neighbouring atolls allows the visitors to dive into an entirely different world. Glittering water, palm trees that lean picturesquely over the beaches, luxury resorts and hotels in which the staff can ostensibly cater to your every whim. From the small hideaway to the luxurious resort with an underwater restaurant leaves no wish unfulfilled. Wellness and finest of cuisine, nothing spoils the ambience. Simply unforgettable: the Indian Ocean shimmers in many shades of turquoise, the clear flat white beaches lead to crystal-clear water and the sky is a perfect blue – until the sun dramatically sinks into the ocean and the stars appear in the night sky. In short, when it comes to holidays, the Maldives is the crème de la crème – whether over or under water.

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PER AQUUM NIYAMA Niyama, the lifestyle resort, presents itself as a resort which has an extravagant design and an innovative concept. Everyone who spend their holidays here are hip and are happy to show what they possess.

he Per AQUUM Niyama is unlike other resorts in the Maldives. Although like many other hotels, it also upholds the original Maldivian values, it offers lot more to its guests than just a romantic getaway, i. e. an exciting blend of relaxation, adventure, inspiration and entertainment. LOCATION: The resort lies in the southwestern part of the Maldives in the Dhaalu Atoll on the idyllic islands of Embudhufushi and Olhuveli. From the Malé International Airport, you can reach it via a seaplane in around 40 minutes. ACCOMMODATION: The resort consists of 134 Studios and pavilions in eight different categories. The motto here is: «He who has a choice has a torment». One is spoilt for choice, as first one must decide whether one wishes to stay directly at the beach or rather in an overwater accommodation facing the Indian Ocean. It is purely a matter of taste; some prefer the unique closeness to water and others would rather have sand under their feet. All accommodation provide modern amenities but are decorated in traditional warm colours. In contrast to the resort’s traditional architecture, which fits harmoniously into the heavenly Maldivian landscape, the interior design and infrastructure are in a class of their own. Ultimate comfort ranks first. Starting from deluxe furnishings and technology through butler service to your own in-room deli.

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TRAVEL

HIGHLIGHTS: ➧ The 24 hour «LIME Spa» is the only spa in the Maldives which has overwater treatment rooms. ➧ The first underwater night club in the world. ➧ Restaurant on the open sea, which is only accessible by boat. ➧ Hotel-owned marine biology research station and diving reef with wrecks.

Mediterranean delicacies. The «Epicure» on the «Chill» island offers whole day international culinary delights, which are also available as takeaways. For evenings, we recommend the rooftop bar «Fahrenheit» with its spectacular sunset views. The canopy restaurant «Tribal» provides South and East African, Asian and South American cuisine – including show cooking on hot stones or over open fire. A special highlight is the «Niyama’s Signature Restaurant Edge». Located 500 metres from the island, it seems to float over water and can only be reached by boat. Eight metres below it is the world’s first underwater club «Subsix», where regular events and internationally renowned DJs ensure a wonderful atmosphere. Party while being surrounded by turtles, rays, sharks and sailfishes. The restaurant «Nest» has recently opened – the first tree house restaurant in the Maldives. It is erected on stilts in old Banyan trees and can be reached via wooden paths and steps. Here, in the middle of nature, you can enjoy the finest of Asian cuisine from Thai specialities to Teppanyaki.

The villas have a terrace with a seating area, a semi-open bathroom with a bathtub, covered and open-air shower. The Beach Studios (160 m²) are situated directly on the lagoon. They have a living/bedroom, a bathroom and a private garden facing the Indian Ocean. Some also have a private pool and direct access to the beach. The Water Studios with Pool (180 m²) are built on stilts over the sea and provide an unspoilt panoramic view. The Deluxe Water Studios (200 m²) also have the same features as the Water Studios but has a larger outdoor area. The Water Pavilions (255 m²) and Ocean Pavilions (2BR / 350 m²) are also built over water. In addition, they also have a large eating area, deli-in, a wine cellar, a Teppanyaki grill, a small open-air cinema, a working area and a pool. OUR FAVOURITE ACCOMMODATION: The 2 Bedroom Beach Pavilion (350 m²). It has a separate living area, a private pool and direct beach access. These are the kind of places where one imagines that rock stars relax! And perhaps that’s why an e-guitar is part of the décor. CUISINE: Good food naturally goes together with such an accommodation and it is also provided. The hotel has five restaurants and two bars. At the pool of the «Play» island, the family restaurant «BLU» spoils you all day with

SPECIAL: Families with children prefer the «Play» island, while honeymoon couples and those seeking relaxation like it on the «Chill» island. Because of the two islands, Niyama has also become a perfect places for families with children. The heart of the «Play» island is the large infinity pool equipped with a pool for children. Located directly on the beach, it invites the small guests to splash around to their heart’s content, while their parents relax in cabanas and allow themselves to be pampered by the sun butler. The children’s club «Explorers» offers daily fun and action-packed adventures for guests aged between 12 months and 12 years. NIYAMA is the only club in the Maldives that even offers a kid’s club for children below three years of age, which scores with its special feature such as a sleeping area. A bridge connects the «Play» island with the Niyama island «Chill». This allows the guests to make the best use of the activity programme and other facilities of both the islands. Despite the many children, NIYAMA lives up to its name – which means «travel peacefully».

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TRAVEL

ANANTARA KIHAVAH VILLAS

The luxury retreat on the lush green island of Kihavah Huravalhi impresses you with its gourmet concept and architectural details. Anyone who spends their holidays here, just enjoys it. A genuine paradise full of luxury and calm.

he Anantara Kihavah Villas stands for uniqueness. Where else can you dine in an underwater restaurant built in a natural reef and where else can you dine surrounded by the biodiversity of the Indian Ocean? Where else are you surrounded by coral reefs and a blue lÂagoon? Where else can you enjoy utmost luxury and a high level of privacy?

LOCATION: The Kihavah Villas belong to the famous Anantara Group and is located on the lush tropical island of Kihavah Huravalhi in the Baa Atoll. From MalĂŠ, you can reach it in 35 minutes by a seaplane. ACCOMMODATION: The 78 pool villas, which are between 260 and 2738 square metres, nestle among the lush vegetation at the beach or poise over the turquoise ocean. In addition to their own

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HIGHLIGHTS: ➧ The underwater restaurant «Sea» featuring the only underwater wine cellar in the Maldives. Here wine lovers can find over 6500 fine wine from 14 countries. ➧ An Anantara spa over the lagoon as well as one of the largest pools in the Maldives. ➧ It’s own Coral Adoption Programme. ➧ With its 49 metres, the pool is the longest in the Maldives and has its own sunshine butler. ➧ House reef is approximately 50 metres away.

pools and breathtaking views, the Water Villas offer two special features – bathtubs and even toilets with glass floors through which you can marvel at the colourful underwater world. In contrast, the Beach Villas stand out because of their charming details such as the large outdoor bathtubs with in-built wine chiller or palm trees that grow through the roofs of the rooms. All villas are open plan and have their own pools and large sun terraces with comfortable swings or hammocks. The very large villas offer maximum comfort, and yet because of their Indian, Moroccan or tropical decor they always appear to be pleasant. These villas have private pools and daybeds on the terrace or under a pavilion. The four residences, each with two bedrooms, a separate living area and spaciousness for every guest, are particularly suitable for families. The «Presidential Beach Residence» with its 2700 m², two private infinity pools, two Jacuzzis, a spacious living area and a shady pavilion along a 76 metre long private strip of beach is particularly suitable for groups of friends. OUR FAVOURITE ACCOMODATION: The Overwater Pool Residence (861 m²), which has the same features as the Overwater Pool Villa, but has an additional bedroom and bathroom, a separate living area, a 24-hour butler service and a large pool (5 x 9 m). The villa is located on the sunrise side. It is built on stilts over the crystal-clear lagoon and has steps that lead directly to the ocean. CUISINE: The luxury island Anantara Kihavah also presents its best side when it comes to the

cuisine. The restaurants «Sea, Fire, Salt, Sky» and «Plates» and «Manzaru» ensure that you are well taken care of with their exquisite food. The main restaurant «Plates» provides Maldivian specialities for breakfast and dinner. «Manzaru» offers wonderful Mediterranean dishes. The concept of dining is based on the four elements and thus «Fire» offers Asian cuisine. The «Salt» restaurant prepares dishes on a Himalayan stone, which lends them a special aroma; in the «Sea» restaurant you can dine under water. For a nightcap, the Bar «Sky» invites you to enjoy the evening with a fantastic view of the Baa Atoll. SPECIAL: Baa Atoll, where usually not a lot of diving takes place, offers the right diving spot to suit every taste. A special highlight is the 12.5 metres long Thila, where you can often watch grey reef sharks. The abundance of fish in this untouched area is breathtaking – giant marine turtles and eagle rays are not uncommon here. The Baa Atoll is impressive mainly because of its diversity and the fine quality of the different coral species, especially the magnificent soft corals. There are still new diving spots to be discovered from where nobody has dived yet.

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TEA SHOPS & PORT LIFE With a diameter of two kilometres and over 100‚000 inhabitants, Malé is one of the most densely populated places in the world. Approximately one-fourth of the Maldivians live here. Although Malé is by no means a paradise island, which holiday makers would seek, it is still well worth a visit to experience the bustling streets, the national museum and the Friday mosque. One can only experience here the authentic daily life of Maldivians: afternoons at the port, when the fishermen arrive from the remote atolls and unload their catch of the day. Dhonis, the traditional fishing boats, stand fully loaded next to one each other at the quay, fishes are stacked on the tables and the hustle and bustle begins. Fishermen, traders, young people and business men also meet in tea shops – a kind of a bar for the Maldivians, but where absolutely no alcohol is served. Here you get an interesting insight into the daily Maldivian life. One can also eat here cheaply and to one’s fill of rice, baked aubergines with vegetable, meat and fish balls. The oldest building, which is also steeped in history, is the Hukuru Miskiiy, the Friday Mosque. But non-Muslims who wish to visit the inner rooms can only do so after having obtained special permission.

SHARK ALARM OR ALARM FOR SHARKS? Ever since there has been tourism in the Maldives, there have been no shark attacks on swimmers. The fear of the sharks is therefore unfounded. There are 50 known shark species in the Maldives. But humans are a far greater threat to sharks than vice versa. Every year, humans catch around 100 million sharks, i.e. three sharks are caught every second. They fall victim to sport fishermen or natural medicine or die in nets. 69 shark species have therefore been classified as endangered. And should these really become extinct, the entire equilibrium of the oceans will be turned upside down.

THE BOAT OF THE MALDIVIANS The Dhoni is the traditional transport of the Maldivians. Originally, the boats were used for fishing and to transport goods. Building Dhonis is the most important craft for the Maldivians. For centuries, Dhoni has remained largely unchanged. The ship hulls were made of coconut palm timber which is very hard and difficult to process, so that Dhonis could adapt perfectly to the water and weather conditions of the Maldivian atolls. The wood is so resilient and elastic that even if the boats were to collide with the coral reefs, which are often very shallow and lie below the ocean surface, it would get not damaged.

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COLUMN

JASMIN TAYLOR Proprietor of the Travel Company JT Touristik:

A TRIP TO THE COLOURED EARTH OF MAURITIUS It is not for nothing that Mauritius is one of the top travel destinations on this earth. Many travellers dream of coming here at least once in their lifetime. As part of a marketing campaign last year, we invited a number of travel experts to discover the highlights of this exotic island nation. In the run-up to the trip, their task was to design a unique summer outfit. Those who got the most votes from their fans secured a place for the trip. Even I was just as thrilled as the guests to visit Mauritius. As the name implies, at the museum «L’Aventure du Sucre», it’s all

«Pink hues characterise the corporate image of my own tour company – all the more reason for my being impressed by the corresponding colours.» about sugar and its significance as the «white gold» for the people and their history here – in particular for their rum production. For this reason, a visit to the country would have been incomplete without the requisite tasting. In Port Louis, the capital city, we also enjoyed shopping at the Caudan Waterfront and picked up unique handicrafts as souvenirs at the Craft Market, which is close-by. I was delighted by the cultural diversity of the island. For instance, a visit to the Tamil

temple revealed the influence of Hinduism. In contrast, the Eureka House bears eloquent witness to the colonial heritage. Generally, the different cultures here live side by side and make Mauritius a real melting pot. This is reflected not only in the architecture but also in the versatile Creole cuisine, which is full of influences from various countries. The Mauritian landscape is just as impressive as the culture and the cuisine, for instance, the imposing Chamarel Waterfall located in the southwest reaches of the island, which would almost make it into a movie as an exotic backdrop. What I really liked was the «coloured earth». The earth appears in different shades of colour, which evolve through conversion of lava to clay minerals. Pink hues characterise the corporate image of my own tour company – all the more reason for my being impressed by the corresponding colours. If you wish to treat yourself to a trip to Mauritius, I can only recommend the luxury homes of the Beachcomber hotels. They have several resorts on the island. In addition to all kinds of comforts, the diverse Creole cuisine of the country is elegantly presented here. And after experiencing all that the island has to offer, the beautiful beaches of Mauritius naturally give you an ideal opportunity to recover from the multitude of colourful impressions. The bays of the island are one of the most beautiful in the world and offer everything imaginable not only to those seeking rest and relaxation but also to the water sports enthusiasts. Mauritius is truly a paradise island!

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To visit authoritarian states, you need a good deal of adventurous spirit, curiosity and flexibility. In addition to the beautiful landscape, travellers can also expect to see many famous cultural attractions that are being opened up slowly but surely for tourists, provided that they adhere to certain rules and conventions – the Chinese proverb applies here as well: Better to see something once, than to hear about it a thousand times.

NORTH KOREA

A BEHIND THE CURTAIN

Even though totalitarian states may be controversial from the democratic standpoint, when it comes to tourism, they offer a very varied landscape and diverse cultural highlights. The moral question of whether one should visit such countries should be answered by everyone themselves. A peek behind the curtains however allows you to complete your personal impression from a different point of view …

Between Kim Jong-un and Kongming Dynasty Travellers on a tour to the empire of Kim Jong-un get an extremely interesting impression of the culture and nature of North Korea. Large buildings and imposing monuments in the capital Pyongyang, the tomb of the King Kongming in the Demilitarised Zone, which runs in the vicinity of the 38th parallel north as well as an unforgettable performance of the national circus await the travellers in North Korea. And on such travels, which are always accompanied by government minders, the slogan «Big brother is watching you» holds true …

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UZBEKISTAN

Sitting in a special Turkish train, the route follows the historical Baghdad railway, passing comfortably through many landscapes, all leading to the seven UNESCO world heritage sites. Between Isfahan and Istanbul one allows oneself to be enchanted by colours and fragrances of the Orient as well as the spectacular archaeological site of Pasargadae, once a capital city, and the impressive stillness of the deserts. This is how you get a peek behind the curtain …

Between Rouhani and Pasargadae

IRAN

Between Karimov and Caravan Saray Remote, exotic places rise like a mirage in a desert – this is Uzbekistan. Legends tell of adventures and curiosity spurs one to experience them also in the 21st century. Every person travelling to Uzbekistan will succumb to the magic of the Silk Route of Central Asia, the fragrances, monuments and caravan sarays because Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are melodious names – even though not everything is covered with velvet and silk on the Silk Route …

MYANMAR Between Being and Sagaing An enchanting place with golden pagodas, traditions and warm people: Myanmar is a jewel in South Asia, just waiting to be discovered. On a spectacular river cruise, travellers experience the beauty of the country, full of light, gold, temples and monastaries in Sagaing. Those who wish to immerse themselves in the land of pagodas, will certainly enjoy this radiance …

RUSSIA Between Putin and Perestroika From KGB, Cold War, Glasnost and Perestroika, to Stalin, Gorbachev and Putin – Russia is shrouded in legend and raises many questions. A tour of Moscow to secret places on the trail of the «Russian X-Files» gives one very interesting insights and one feels like a comrade who has gone back in time to the Soviet Union era …

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FACES

JEWELLERY

WATCHES

TIME

There’s no denying it. Men, at least those who are not vain about the size of everything, will look at the face and hands of their wristwatch more often over the course of a day than in the mirror. Gisbert L. Brunner

any women would have it no other way. No wonder then, that these faces of time naturally attract special importance. It’s also natural, however, that watchmakers traditionally place the hands of the watch at nine minutes past ten when photographing them. Not only does it frame the logo, it also creates a friendly smiley face. That is also down to what designers believe makes up 80 percent of a watch’s overall impression, over centuries of constant change. Three-dimensionality made watch faces more complex. Colour brings variety. A retro look reminds us of the good old days. And skeletonization ensures interesting insights into the mechanics that make the whole thing tick.

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BLANCPAIN In 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for his tourbillon for compensating the negative influences of gravity on the accuracy of vertically positioned pocket watches. Dane Bahne Bonniksen presented an alternative with the carousel in 1892. The patent for this is dated 1906. Both inventions were combined by Blancpain in the new calibre 2322V2. To constantly keep an eye on the complex mechanism, the multi-level watch face allows an unhindered view of the ornate hand-wound mechanism. The designers and watchmakers also placed emphasis on the two carriages, so that they rotate prominently. The discreet casing of this special watch is made from platinum, with a diameter of 47.40 millimetres. As something so exquisite is so rare even in the 21st century, Blancpain has limited this edition to just 50 watches.

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

CARL F. BUCHERER

Over the course of over twenty years, the «Lange 1» from A. Lange & Söhne became an iconic watch. It owes its aura in no small amount to the striking but unobtrusive asymmetrical face with its conspicuous power reserve display and innovative large date. The latter may not have been invented by A. Lange & Söhne, but it contributed from 1994 to the watch’s previously unknown levels of popularity. The mechanism, patented for the luxury manufacturer from the small German town of Glashütte near the Czech border, also allows for a display up to five times larger than normal. As only seven months of the year have 31 days, a small button on the left of the case allows for quick date corrections. In 2015, the company surprised with a new hand-wound mechanism called the L121.1. Among its features, alongside the usual 72 hour power reserve, were a date display that now jumps precisely at midnight and a balance wheel with variable inertia. The watch ticks at three Hz, with a microcosm of 368 components enclosed in the casing made from platinum, yellow or red gold.

Carl. F. Bucherer will produce only 188 of the «Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition 2015», with a 42-mm red gold case and chocolate brown face. The mechanism hidden behind it, christened the CFB T1001, embodies the pinnacle of traditional craftsmanship. This can be seen in the Geneva waves as well as the angled and polished steel parts. The mainspring needs to be manually wound after 70 hours. A power reserve display at the «9» shows the remaining energy. A crescent-shaped date indicator rotates around the face of the watch. The watch also features as 24-hour indicator to show a second time zone.

CARTIER Carole Forestier, chief watchmaker at Cartier, has delivered a masterpiece with this watch. The microcosm, developed over five years, has everything that affluent watch nerds treasure. The name «Grande Complication» does not come from just anywhere. No fewer than 578 components are required to produce one of the skeletonised, self-winding movements with flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Cartier requires ten weeks to decorate the components and five further weeks to assemble them. The ambitious manufactory’s watch comes of course with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. This applies to the entire watch with its platinum housing and diameter of 45 millimetres. The seal requires unconditional fulfillment of countless quality criteria, as well as a demanding level of accuracy for tourbillons. The watch may diverge by no more than one minute after one week.

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Most watches with minute repeaters are very discreet. Their special ability to strike time precisely to the minute is only revealed after operating a small slide piece on the left of the case. In contrast, the Breguet «Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087» is happy to show off its many aspects of outstanding watchmaking. In the «south», i.e. at the «6», the tourbillon rotates around its axis once per minute. Particularly impressive, however, are the gongs for the striking mechanism mounted in the left side on the bezel. When Breguet invented the aforementioned gong springs in 1783, these were coiled up around the movement. After carrying out many experiments, his successors improved the form to create the perfect sound. This is precisely why the two hammers strike the carefully tuned gongs vertically from below at lightning speed. The entire automatic calibre with peripheral rotating flywheel and 80-hour power reserve is called the 565DR. The parts for its escapement and balance are made from silicon. At the «12», there is also a discreet power reserve display.

BREGUET

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY

TAG HEUER A fraction of one horsepower is all it takes to keep a mechanical watch movement ticking. To reduce that energy requirement even more, TAG Heuer took inspiration from the automotive world. In place of the thirsty toothed wheel chain, the patented automatic calibre V4 uses no fewer than thirteen much more efficient timing belts. High-performance computers had to calculate their way through around 2500 variables to get everything working perfectly. In the end, only five belts were left. These are joined by highly resilient and low-friction micro ball bearings with zirconium balls. In 2015, this cutting- edge mechanical technology was combined with an innovative case design in the «Monaco V4 Carbon Phantom». Its cushion-shaped case, measuring 41x 41 mm, is made from a highly resistant carbon matrix composite. H andling this material, however, requires a great deal of expertise. The tools are worn after approximately ten cases. After all that, only 85 percent of those produced are actually used.

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY

CHOPARD

MONTBLANC

1963 was a very special year for Chopard. This was when the German Scheufele family took over the brand, founded in 1860. In 1996, it became a full manufactory with its own range of mechanical watches that has become remarkable. This collection includes the extraordinary hand-wound calibre L.U.C 02.19-L1 with tourbillon. It can trace its history at Chopard back to 2003 and the L.U.C 02.01-L. In addition to the tourbillon, it features an outstanding power reserve of 216 hours. A total of four barrels store the required energy. In order to be better safe than sorry, the new movement fulfils not only all criteria of the Swiss quality standard for chronometers, but also those of the exclusive Geneva Seal. Chopard will produce only 100 of these rosé gold watches, which highlights also include the fine enamel face, in which the tourbillon rotates. The «12» is crowned with a power display, to remind the wearer of when to wind.

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Another exquisite eye-catcher is the «Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphères Vasco da Gama» from Montblanc. Only 18 of these watches exist, inspired by the explorer Vasco da Gama, who discovered the sea route to India in 1497. The pioneering spirit of the Portuguese seafarer is reflected in the handwound calibre MB M68.40, including the combination of tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring and a spectacular time zone display, the first of its kind. An ingenious mechanism also creates a stunning, three-dimensional chronometric spectacle. Hands for the hours and minutes at the respective location rotate at its centre. When on the road, a small blue hand at the «6» shows the time at home. The spherical globes to the left and right feature realistic engraving and miniature painting. The northern and southern hemispheres are depicted on the left and right respectively. Each of these is surrounded by a ring with 24-hour graduation and light/dark zones for differentiating day and night. No less prominent is the 18.4 mm minute tourbillon at the «12», which counteracts the negative influences of gravity. Both ends of the aforementioned cylindrical hairspring are curved upwards.

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

BULGARI Classic watches with repeaters chime the minutes on a high-pitched gong and the hours on a low-pitched one. The quarter hours are signalled acoustically by both gongs being struck sequentially. In 2015 Bulgari released the Carillon as part of its Daniel Roth series. This name refers to a kind of musical chiming instrument, as the boutique manufacturer uses three hammers and three hand-formed gongs to sound the quarter hours. The design of the calibre 3300, comprising 327 parts and including a minute tourbillon, bridges the gap between classic watchmaking and modernity. In contrast to traditional designs, the hammers go about their work on the dial side at the «10». The power reserve of the hand-wound mechanism, which Bulgari encloses in a 48-millimetre red gold case, is sufficient for 75 hours.

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY

CHRONOSWISS

PATEK PHILIPPE

As the name «Sirius Répétition à quarts» suggests, Chronoswiss can let know the exact time every quarter of an hour, if the wearer wishes it. The mechanism required for this is discreetly hidden, however, behind the hand-guilloched face made from sterling silver. Every watch is produced by an experienced craftsman using traditional methods and machinery. Alongside the hours and minutes, the exclusive C.126 automatic calibre with a power reserve of around 35 hours also indicates the seconds. Its oscillating weight is skeletonised to increase winding efficiency. The striking mechanism is triggered by pressing the handy button on the left side of the case. The case is available in red gold or stainless steel. Both models measure 41 mm in diameter and are water-resistant up to three bar.

Patek Philippe has been producing drag pointer wrist chronographs since 1923. Its first production watch in 1938 was the now priceless reference 1436, which was used by Valjoux. The CH 27-70/150 in the reference 5004, presented in 1997, is based on a Lémania design and features a perpetual calendar. In 2011 the manufactory released the calibre CH 29-535 PS Q, developed and produced entirely in house. The hand-wound mechanism again has a perpetual calendar. After 77 years, the Geneva family-owned manufactory is finally once again celebrating pure chronograph art with the expert craftsmanship of the fly-back hand. The reference 5370P in its 41-mm platinum case embodies a pure strain of nostalgic understatement. The black watch face with its subtle Breguet digits and tachometer scale shows no signs of obtrusiveness. A look through the transparent base reveals the astonishing and lovingly perfected CHR 29-535 PS in all its glory, protected by multiple patents.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN No need to rush, then. Being in the right place at the right time is all that matters if you want one of the only ten ultra-flat «Harmony» drag pointer chronographs from Vacheron Constantin. The development work for this watch took a whole seven years. The automatic calibre 3500, designed and produced in house, has set two world records simultaneously. Despite housing a self-winding rotor, chronograph, drag pointer and power reserve display, it measures just 5.2 mm in height. This is made possible by a solid gold oscillating weight, which rotates peripherally around the actual movement. The cushion-shaped platinum case, measuring 42 x 42 mm, is only 8.4 mm on the wrist. The complex movement comprises 459 components, including several springs that are just three hundredths of a millimetre thick. As usual for the craftsmen of this 260-year-old manufactory, all components are finished to the absolute highest quality. The opalin watch face evokes the spirit of the 1920s. Its red tachymeter scale can be used to record average speeds up to 1000 metres away.

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The sound of a Bugatti is like music to the ears of petrol heads. To mark the launch of the 1001 hp Veyron in 2004, Parmigiani created the perfect wrist watch. Michel Parmigiani developed a very special movement motor for this piece. The spokes of its gear wheels reflect those of the car’s rims. When viewed from above, the ergonomically domed casing reveals the full movement, with the calibre PF 370 sitting formally on the wrist with its two barrels and ten-day power reserve. External cardan shafts take care of the winding and hand positioning, with a fuel gauge showing the remaining power reserve. Last but not least, the piece with its five plates is mounted on silent blocks. These proven technical aspects were retained by the manufactory for the new «Bugatti 370 Révélation». The characteristic visual features of the red gold anniversary edition are the engine bonnet, which can be folded up and removed, as well as the watch face with its diamond-shaped honeycomb structure of the Bugatti radiator grille.

PARMIGIANI

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RADO There are times in life when every second counts. That’s why Rado developed the «DiaMaster Grande Seconde». Its face design harkens back to a wise observation by the French pilot and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: «Perfection is not achieved when one can add no more, but when one would take nothing away.» With this in mind, the puristic timepiece sticks to displaying the hours, minutes and date, along with the seconds emphasised in the left half of the face. The hands and date display on this piece from the Swatch group member are driven by an automatic calibre Eta 2892-A2, modified in house. The 43 mm monoblock casing, made from high-tech ceramic with a metallic gleam, promises eternal beauty and no scratches. Its raw case is available in white, polished or sand-blasted variants. The case is then processed further in a special plasma oven. At 900 °C, the molecular structure of the ceramic changes. Gases help the special colour to emerge without affecting the high skin tolerability.

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Produced at Glashütte Original’s own watch face manufactory, the face for the «PanoReserve» is understated but powerfully expressive. The hands for the hours, minutes and seconds turn around the dark blue disc. Another hand indicates the power reserve. In the bottom right, one finds a further display for the so-called panorama date. The manufacturer’s own hand-wound calibre 65-01 can be seen through the sapphire glass base, with Glashütte three-quarter plate, 42-hour power reserve and 48 functional stones. The duplex swan neck fine-timing device, developed especially for this movement in 2002, has two functions. It allows the wearer to control the movement and also creates a uniform ticking. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and water-resistant up to five bar.

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL

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HERMÈS

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The combined genius of outstanding craftsmen at La Montre Hermès regularly leads to truly extraordinary creations. In the illustrious «Cape Cod Zebra Pegasus», two traditional features deliver a real wow effect. These are the engraving and the fire enamel. The mythical winged zebra that decorates the face of this watch features wings enamelled using the cloisonné method. Thin partitions prevent the liquid enamel from mixing. The four parts, each with different colour palettes, evoke the design of a silk scarf by Alice Shirley. The zebra itself is created in painstaking enamel painting. This burst of colour requires multiple melting and burning processes at temperatures of over 800 °C. Only four models have been produced, elegantly framed by a white gold case and featuring a Manufacture Hermès H1837 automatic movement to keep time.

PANERAI

IWC

»Mare Nostrum», our sea, was the name given by the Romans to the Mediterranean at the heart of their empire. In 1943, Panerai produced three prototypes of a 52-mm wide chronograph. In contrast to the diving watches »Radiomir» and »Luminor», these deck watches allowed officers to transfer the precise time from the stationary pendulum clocks to the marine chronometers onboard. They never went into full production at the time, for reasons as yet unknown. Outstanding water resistance was not considered important back then. This is also true of the 150 pieces of the retro model presented in 2015. In contrast to the original, Panerai uses lightweight and anti-allergenic titanium for the jumbo-sized case. This makes the new »Mare Nostrum» a comfortable accessory on the wrist. To stay true to the original, the casing has no transparent base through which to view the fine hand-wound calibre OP XXV. The chronographs, with column wheel control, classic wheel coupling and 30-minute counter, are supplied by its subsidiary Montblanc. The movement, originally developed by Minerva, is known as the 13-22.

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Anyone waiting for the white gold IWC «Portuguese Perpetual Calendar» to diverge by one day will be waiting for a long time, 577 and a half years to be precise. In addition to that, the watch shows the passage of the moon across both hemispheres. But this member of the 75-year-old watch series can offer much more. Its perpetual calendar consists of 109 parts. The extra 27 components compared to the original design of 1985 are a result of the larger diameter and the need for several more intermediate wheels. The 37.8 mm by 7.5 mm automatic movement calibre 52615 is made in house. Its golden rotor can be wound from both sides and provides the two barrels with enough energy for 168 hours. Alongside the double moon, the watch face also indicates the hours, minutes and seconds, as well as the power reserve, date, day of the week and month, and the year in full.

HUBLOT

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Since November 2014, Hublot and Italia Independent have been working together on the Lapo Elkann fashion label founded in 2006. The fruit of this liaison is a blue set, consisting of a wrist watch and sunglasses. What’s special about the «Big Bang Unico Italia Independent» is the first ever use of the material texalium in the watch casing. This impressive innovation delivers truly glowing colours, achieved by packing a 0.2-mm thick layer of chemically dyed and highly resilient glass fibre onto several layers of carbon fibres. Hublot conducted over a hundred firings to achieve the gleaming blue of the bevel. The light 45-mm case protects the «Unico» HUB 1242 chronograph against water pressure up to 10 bar. When fully wound, the mainspring will keep the automatic movement ticking for a whole weekend without the need for an extra power boost. The extravagant language of Lapo Elkann’s design can also be seen on the denim watch strap, with added platinum rivets. 500 sets will be produced before production ends once and for all.

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ROLEX

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The «Yacht-Master» from Rolex was the subject of furore as soon as it debuted in 1998. Since then, its striking design with bidirectional rotatable glass bezel has made history. The Swiss watchmaking giant is unmoved by spectacular revolutions. Its focus is on cautious evolution, reflected in the new «Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 37». The centre of its case is made from a single piece of red gold. This material, named «Everrose», is also used for the screwed back cover and the bezel, with its scratch-proof «Cerachrome» inlay. The watch is resistant to water up to ten bar and comes with an official chronometer certificate. It is powered by an automatic calibre 2236 movement and features a rotor that can be wound on both sides, a 55-hour power reserve, a balance frequency of four hertz, second stop, «Syloxi» silicon balance spring, and a balance wheel with variable moment of inertia. The innovative «Oysterflex» strap ensures the watch sits equally securely and comfortably on the wrist. Its flexible metal spring blades are coated with high-quality elastomer. While we’re on the subject of Rolex, the company is offering a five-year guarantee on all watches since 1 July 2015.

DID YOU KNOW…?

The crystal mine In 1794 to the south of the Mexican city of Chihuahua, Alejo Hernández, Vicente Ruiz and Pedro Ramos discovered a small vein of ore at the foot of a mountain chain known as Naica. The vein wasn’t mined, however, until 1828 and even then only on a small scale. The real excavation work didn’t start until 1900. In 1910, deep under the surface in one of the largest ore mines in the region, two miners drilled a new ventilation shaft. As the drill broke through the wall, a torrent of boiling hot water surged through and revealed a cave. Completely by accident, the two miners had made a fascinating geological discovery – a cave full of massive crystals made of selenite, a special kind of gypsum. This led to the cave being named the «Cave of Swords». As the cave was also full of highly poisonous gases, the preparations for exploring it took several years. 90 years later during further exploration work in the mine, another cave was discovered – the «Cave of Crystals». While the most impressive specimens of known crystals measure around 25 centimetres in our regions, those in Naica reach heights of up to 14 metres.

Golden age The country with the world’s largest gold reserves is the USA with over 8100 tonnes of gold. This means that the precious metal makes up 71.6 percent of the country’s currency reserves. Germany is second with approximately 3,380 tonnes. Golden ducats were first minted in Venice in the year 1284. For over 500 years, they were the most popular method of payment in the world. Global gold reserves are currently around 171,300 tonnes. Of these, 84,300 tonnes are in the form of jewellery and 33,000 tonnes are made up of bars and coins. The world’s central banks possess 29,500 tonnes. The rest is in industrial reserves. Around the world, there are still approximately 51,000 tonnes of gold that can be excavated.

Famous Rolex wearers One of the most famous wearers of the Rolex watch, albeit a fictional one, is James Bond. Ian Fleming, author of the original books, names among others the Rolex «Oyster Perpetual». Another personality closely linked with the brand is Paul Newman and the «Daytona». Cult actor and racing driver Steve McQueen is also linked with the Rolex. His name is often tied to the model «1655 Explorer II».

JEWELLERY Items

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Look elegant this autumn with precious stones on gold and silver chains to reflect the colours of an Indian summer. «Autumn is the most beautiful time of the year.» BY LAURA

VI I OLE LYNGGAARD II MEISTER III DIOR IV CARTIER V PANDORA VI BULGARI

FINELY WOVEN JEWELLERY MADE FROM GOLD AND SILK CAROLINA BUCCI

5 QUESTIONS Jewellery designer Carolina Bucci is continuing a family tradition that stretches back to 1885. This tradition is enriched by her contemporary touch and high-quality everyday style. Bucci spent her childhood in Florence, between the grey and azure tones of the Italian renaissance. These colours, just like her sense for balance and strictly non-ostentatious elegance, have been a constant part of her life and have followed her from Italy to New York to London, where she now lives. From finely braided golden bracelets and rings with lightly structured surfaces to chains of richly coloured silk, Carolina Bucci has taken weaving technology and methods originally used in renaissance Florence and made them her signature. After studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and working at Penny Preville and Graff Diamonds, she founded her own jewellery label in London. Bucci’s breakthrough came in 2003, when one of her colliers was worn by Salma Hayek on the cover of British magazine «Vogue». The work of the London-based designer combines modernity with an effortless sense of luxury in a uniquely elegant and sleek style. Carolina explains: «My generation wears jewellery differently from our parents, who would only get out precious items for going to the opera.» The mix of traditional craftsmanship and a modern, holistic and relaxed attitude has become Bucci’s trademark. In 2007, she opened her flagship store in Belgravia, whose customers include Victoria Beckham, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kate Moss to name a few.

How would you describe your style in three words? Colourful, relaxed and classic. Which city has the best-dressed people? Paris and New York. Which designer do you like? I love Mary Katzantrous’ colourful materials. They are just so original and full of life. What advice would you give women in terms of their outfit? One piece of advice that my mother gave me: women should dress appropriately for their age. And you should always pay attention to your shoes. Where do you get your inspiration? Everything that I design is inspired by moments from my life. I always start with a piece that I design for myself and then create a whole collection around it. I know that sounds a bit selfish. I create jewellery that I feel I am missing.

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SHADES GREEN Emeralds are erotic and valuable. Connoisseurs are addicted. The bigger the stone, the greater the desire. The Bahia emerald, worth 400 million dollars, is a special source of wild stories of obsession and betrayal. Yvonne Beck

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razil 2001, an emerald mine in the eastern state of Bahia. This is where the world’s largest emerald, weighing in at 381 kilos, was discovered. This 180,000 carat gem is about as large as a human thigh. Emeralds of this size are very rare and are worth a fortune. There are many treasures in this world, but only a few have such a bizarre story as the Bahia emerald. Eight people claim to be the legal owner of the stone. Californian businessman Thony Thomas claims to have bought the stone for just 60,000 dollars soon after it was excavated. But the receipt for the purchase was destroyed shortly afterwards in a mysterious house fire. The only evidence is a picture of the businessman with the huge emerald.

only be found in a few places. Columbian emeralds sell quickly and are often sold in the boutiques of Los Angeles just weeks after being discovered. That’s what was also hoped of the Bahia emerald, but the gem didn’t turn up in the USA until 2005. The Columbian emeralds have a gleaming green colour and a special intensity that the Brazilian stones lack. So although the Bahia emerald is certainly one of the largest, it is not one of the most beautiful. The stone therefore needed a very special buyer who was not so easy to find. The emerald was stored in a bank deposit three stories underground. No-one could have known that Hurricane Katrina was to devastate New Orleans. After Katrina, the stone lay submerged in its deposit for two months.

A perfect emerald is worth more than the most beautiful diamond The emerald is the most precious stone of the Beryl group and has been the most sought-after green stone since the days of ancient Egypt. The word emerald is derived from the Latin «esmaralda», which itself comes from the Greek «smargdos», meaning «green stone». Emeralds almost always have small to medium-sized inclusions, known as «jardin» (French for garden). Stones without any inclusions are extremely rare and achieve carat prices far beyond those of comparable white diamonds. The emerald gets its colour from traces of chromium. Emeralds are quite brittle, which is an issue particularly when grinding the precious gems. The octagonal step cut method (with angled corners) was developed to smooth off the sensitive edges, and is still known today as the emerald cut.

«Emeralds are not a luxury good. Emeralds are a must!» – Precious stones trader –

The best quality emeralds come from Colombia The world’s most valuable emeralds are excavated in a small region called Muzo. The area is about as large as Las Vegas and is a seven-hour drive from the Colombian capital Bogotá. Traders come here looking for clear stones and deep colours. The larger the stones, the better suited they are to making expensive jewellery. As beautiful emeralds are very rare, they achieve high prices. They can

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The best quality emeralds come from Colombia.

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A proud discovery in Columbia’s jungle mines.

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Who is the legal owner? The emerald frenzy is a combination of the stone’s beauty and the lust of the rich. The sheer size of the Bahia emerald aroused this lust. So it is no wonder that the battle for ownership of the emerald continued. The stone came into the ownership of a businessman, who went on to lose it shortly afterwards in an obscure diamond deal. He claims to have been kidnapped by the Brazilian mafia during the deal. With millions of dollars at stake, devious methods are common in the trading of precious stones. Even small deals are exciting. Emeralds are a symbiosis of power and romance. This is what makes the Bahia stone so enthralling. Somehow, the emerald ended up in California in 2008 and came into the hands of the state justice system. The press broke the story and went crazy. The story raised interest across the whole country,

which raised the value of the Bahia emerald by several million. Five parties are still arguing over the ownership of the 400-million dollar stone, which is currently waiting for its rightful owner in the custody of the sheriff of Los Angeles. The Brazilian government has also registered its own claim. It argues that the «Bahia emerald» is part of the country’s cultural and scientific heritage, and as such should be returned.

Trading place Colombia All kinds of traders flock to the market square in Muzo. Auf der Plaza Central von Muzo werden Smaragde gehandelt. Bigger deals, however, are negotiated in Bogotá, attracting emerald dealers from all over the world. There are four large buildings in the capital that are the places to go to find those who cut, trade and buy emeralds. The professional precious stone dealers who dominate the market can also be found here. Almost all emeralds from the mines are brought here, whether by mine owners in sacks or in the trouser pockets of amateur prospectors. An emerald will pass through many hands and everyone involved receives their share. By the time the emerald is placed in the shop window of a New York jewellers, its original price will have more than quadrupled. Whereas in the USA a raw emerald will barely raise an eyebrow, in Colombia the emerald fever will take hold at first sight. People there see the finished gemstone and the riches that it promises. In order to achieve the perfect result, an emerald can easily lose up to 70 percent of its weight. A matching counterpart can double its value, as these stones are perfect for making them into earrings, such as those worn by Angelina Jolie at the Oscars in 2011. They were valued at 2.5 million dollars.

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HANDMADE JEWELLERY COLLECTION ANNETTE & HERBERT KOPP

4 QUOTES «Art is the wonderful jewellery of life.» – Henry van de Velde –

«We prefer to live with art. We leave trading it to others.»– Herbert Kopp in an interview with the German newspaper «Die Welt»–

«Our most popular items are our Love collection and the colourful targets from the Magic Color range.» – Herbert Kopp –

«A woman without jewellery is like a mill without a millstone» – Old saying –

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Annette Kopp is a trained silversmith. Herbert Kopp studied painting. In 1986, the couple foun ded the label CADA in Munich, which today is one of Europe’s most famous jewellery brands. With Herbert Kopp’s designs, the company quickly became the no. 1 stop for fashion-conscious women and creatives. The XXL rings and b racelets reflected the zeitgeist of the 80s and 90s, just as the pieces from the «Love Collection» do today. The couple have succeeded in surprising again and again in the fine jewellery segment. Whether with fetish elements from popular and everyday culture or simply by consistently reinventing and refining classic shapes. The items are produced in the company’s own workshop and are always relaxed and wearable. As passionate art collectors and music lovers, Herbert and Annette Kopp immerse themselves in creativity. They combine this with their exceptional talent for cutting-edge design and their instinctive feel for materials, shapes and colours. CADA customers therefore know that the «CADA loves you» claim is no empty slogan. Annette and Herbert Kopp have always stayed true to themselves, and their customers value their good and reliable service. Anyone searching for their new favourite piece of jewellery will be in the right place. The name CADA stands for Creativity, Art, Design and Anarchy. For inspiration, the Kopps look to art and music. The most successful collections, Love and Magic Color, are inspired by works of art. These are treasured by celebrities like Paris Hilton, Princess Caroline of Monaco or Patti Smith, all of whom wear colourful CADA jewellery. The trend towards classic, timeless and delicately crafted pieces is continuing, for example with the «Ribbon» chain or the «Hoop» earrings made from 18-carat white gold and sparkling diamonds.

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I Jewellery II BY LAURA

This autumn/winter we will be seeing lots of classic hunter green, icy pastels and strong, luminous cobalt blues, edged with white gold.

I BUCHERER II TIFFANY & CO. III STENZHORN IV GRAFF V HARRY WINSTON VI BULGARI V II DIOR

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«There is one thing that one should demand both of one’s watch and of one’s self: never stand still.» – Walter Lange –

The winner’s watch: Lange 1 Timezone Como Edition.

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Winner «Best of Show»: Alfa Romeo 8C 2300, 1932.

Once a year, the eyes of the car world are trained on the small town of Cernobbio on the banks of Lake Como. Since 1929, the famous grounds of the Grand Hotel Villa d’Este have played host to one of the most exclusive classic car competitions in the world – the Concorso d’Eleganza.

Anka Refghi

A. Lange & Söhne, BMW Group

oaring engines, chassis polished to perfection, gleaming chrome and the smell of petrol in the air. The organisers of this year’s d’Eleganza pulled out all the stops to create an a stonishing event in breathtaking surroundings and perfect weather. This e xhibition of superlatives, held over the Whitsun weekend in May, welcomed rare and historic cars to compete for the affection of the crowd and the jury, and to bring the sophisticated glamour of bygone years back to life.

Art on wheels The BMW group, sponsors of the Concorso since 1999, showcased a collection of very special artworks and presented five cars from its exhibition «40 Years of BMW Art Cars». These vehicles, both race and series models, were designed by famous international artists such as Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol and Frank Stella from 1975 to 2010.

A winner’s watch The high point of this year’s festival on the banks of Lake Como was the beauty competition for historic vehicles in a range of categories. The title of «Best of Show», awarded to the most beautiful car at the Concorso, went this year to the stunning Alfa 8C 2300 Spider 1932 owned by American collector David Sydorick. This fascinating car was designed by the famous Zagato design and development studio. Alongside the trophy, the winner was also awarded a very special prize. German watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne,

another sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza for four years, awarded a ticking work of art with the legendary LANGE 1 ZEITZONE «Como Edition». This watch features a hand-engraved coat of arms of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este on the white gold caseback and the event’s location Como on the city ring. A true work of craftsmanship suitable for the show’s most elegant vehicle. At the end of this unforgettable event at the exclusive gala dinner in the Villa d’Este, Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, awarded the unique watch and ended his speech with the words of French painter Marc Chagall: «You can recognise a true collector not by what he already has, but by what he would love to have.» The passions for exclusive timepieces and precious cars are often closely linked. Both involve extraordinary levels of craftsmanship and the love with which they are created. The «marriage» between watch manufacturer A. Lange & Söhne and the Concorso d’Eleganza could therefore not be a better partnership. We speak to CEO Wilhelm Schmid about the trends of the age.

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The Lange 1 Timezone «Como Edition» watch is presented by CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, Wilhelm Schmid.

PRESTIGE: Mr Schmid, are there in your view different dimensions of time? WILHELM SCHMID: Absolutely. When I was working for BMW in Africa, I was in charge of the markets in Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, South Africa and Mozambique. You arrive there accustomed to well-functioning German processes and procedures and after a while, you ask yourself whether you’d be better off adapting or jumping on the next flight home. Advanced economies have a much different feeling for time than countries where the process of industrialisation is not so developed. There is a wonderful saying in Africa: «You have watches, we have time.»

winner. That’s something very special when you consider that we normally do not produce custom watches.

A. Lange & Söhne is famously reluctant to jump on every «trend bandwagon». Is this your philosophy? Our philosophy is essentially to keep advancing the aim of our founder – to produce the best watches in the world and to never stand still. Whether we achieve that or not is another question, but that is the aim that drives us every day. On top of that, we concentrate on what we are really best at – men’s watches. We always think long term and never go running after trends. If you’re waiting for us to produce a smartwatch then you will probably be disappointed.

Do you have a favourite watch? You might as well ask me who my favourite child is, there is no right answer. But there are some watches with which I share an emotional connection. Like the Datograph, for example, which we launched in 2012. That was the first watch where I was involved in the development right from the start. It’s fair to say that I have a soft spot for chronographs.

The winner of this year’s Concorso d’Eleganza was awarded a very special watch … Yes, the Lange 1 Zeitzone. This special version of the watch is unique, only one has been produced for the

A. Lange & Söhne Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand A. Lange laid the foundations for the company in 1845 by founding his workshop. After the Second World War, the company was dispossessed and the name A. Lange & Söhne faded almost entirely into memory. That was until 1990, when Walter Lange, great grandson of the company founder, saw the time was right for a new start. Today, the company produces only a few thousand wristwatches made from gold or platinum, which all contain mechanisms produced exclusively in house that are painstakingly decorated and assembled by hand.

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How do you want people to feel when they wear an A. Lange & Söhne watch? I always find it very moving when I realise that people know exactly why they invest so much money in one of our watches. When they understand how much work has gone into it and how these watches are produced with such love for detail. When I get the feeling that people understand this when they wear that watch, that makes me very happy.

Back to the here and now. What would you do if you had six months free? Easy. I’d go to Africa. I’d love to just travel all over the continent again, enjoy our house and lie on the beach. Just switch off and then maybe travel around Asia for a few weeks.

THE WORLD’S TOUGHEST RALLY PARIS–DAKAR It is the most famous long-distance and desert rally in the world and was held annually almost exclusively on the African continent from 1978 to 2007. In 2008, a terror threat resulted in the rally being cancelled and then moved to South America for security reasons, where it has since remained. The first Dakar Rally began on 26 December 1978 in Paris and ended on 14 January 1979 in Dakar. The idea came from Thierry Sabine, who got lost whilst travelling with his motorbike in the Libyan desert in 1977 and almost died as a result. The desert that almost claimed his life fascinated Sabine, who wanted to share this fascination with as many people as possible. He organised a race through the endless sea of sand. 170 participants set out on the 6,000-mile journey across the tracks of Algeria, Niger, Mali, Upper Volta (modern day Burkina Faso) and Senegal. Over a quarter of participants lost their way in the Aïr mountains. By the time they reached Bamako, half had already given up. This is what helped create the Dakar legend and gave the rally its first heroes. By the 80s, the rally had already achieved cult status. To this day it is a human and sporting adventure, and an experience for those who want to put their courage to the test. This adventure is open to everyone and «victory» goes to every participant that completes the course. In 2001, German race driver Jutta Kleinschmidt was the first woman to win the Dakar Rally. The rally is one of the toughest and most dangerous sporting events in the world and has so far claimed 61 lives.

5 QUOTES «A challenge for everyone who takes part. A dream for those who stay at home.» – Thierry Sabine –

«When we go up a dune, we drive up like a snake, slowly working our way up to the top. We cannot afford to come to a stop, because then you can get stuck very quickly.» – Carlos Sainz – «Of course the rally is dangerous, but I wouldn’t abolish it for that reason. We have to think of what can be done to reduce the number of accidents. Or at least to have fewer fatal accidents.» – Jutta Kleinschmidt –

«You either love the rally or you hate it.» – Toby Price, driver –

«Dakar Rally: One dead, several injured. Hey people, fly to the sea and relax. But what’s the point in pelting through the desert as fast as possible? So you don’t have to see all the poor, hungry and sick children?» –Wolfgang J. Reuss, satirist –

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Pablo Picasso with his Hispano-Suiza.

Marc Birkigt Damian Mateu

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THE WOODEN

TORPEDO Originally produced for race driver André Dubonnet, the Hispano-Suiza H6C «Tulipwood» Torpedo, with its planked wooden design, remains a fascinating piece of automotive history. Anka Refghi

Blackhawk Museum

t was 1904 when Spanish financier Damian Mateu founded «La Hispano-Suiza de Automoviles» in Barcelona and named gifted Swiss engineer Marc Birkigt technical director on the same day. Under Birkigt, Hispano-Suiza soon became one of the most decorated car brands of the pre-war years, at the same level as RollsRoyce or Bugatti. Among the fans of the luxurious Hispano-Suiza vehicles were King Alfonso XIII of Spain, dictator Francisco Franco, Prince Hendrik of the Netherlands and Pablo Picasso.

Extraordinary design When Hispano-Suiza presented its model H6 at the Paris Salon in 1919, the industry was amazed. With its 6.6-litre, six-cylinder engine, overhead camshaft, duel ignition and a four-wheel power brake, which was later licensed to Rolls-Royce, the H6 was well ahead of its time. Hispano-Suiza only offered the bare chassis in various lengths. This led to the world’s leading car body makers virtually falling over themselves for permission to make their body designs as individual and

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DRIVE STYLE

«La Hispano-Suiza de Automoviles» motor company.

spectacular as possible for their exclusive clientèle. The Hispano-Suiza H6C 1924 was as wooden design produced for the pilot and race driver André Dubonnet for his participation in the Targa Florio, a long-distance race played out on the mountain roads of Sicily. The spectacular design would go down in motoring history. The car was perfect for long distances, with an 8-litre, 6-cylinder engine generating 200 hp, together with a deeper fitted radiator and a 175-litre tank in the rear. To save weight, Dubonnet hired the French plane manufacturer Nieuport Astra Aviation to create the spectacular lightweight wooden construction, which had to weigh no more than 45 kilos. The name «Tulipwood» came from the false assumption that this wheeled work of art was planked with the material. Nieuport in fact used mahogany planks for the finish, held together by thousands of brass rivets. Both the mudguards and headlights could be removed for races to significantly improve aer-

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odynamics. Dubonnet came in 6th place in the Targa Florio. In the Italian Coppa Florio circuit race, Dubonnet came 5th in the overall competition and won his category of cars with engines larger than 4.5 litres. Although this was an impressive result, the real attraction was the car itself. The Hispano-Suiza H6C was later converted for road use and can be seen today in the Blackhawk Museum in California, albeit a little «over-restored».

The flying stork Since the end of the First World War, the cars of Hispano-Suiza have been decorated with one of the most elegant radiator mascots, the «cigogne volante», the flying stork. The stork was the lucky symbol for the squadron of French captain Georges Marie Ludovic Jules Guynemer, whose S.P.A.D. fighters were fitted with Hispano-Suiza engines during the war. The front of the radiator also featured the company’s coat of arms with two wings, which combined the national colours of Spain and Switzerland.

BOOKS

AUTOMOTIVE 1 For hippies and workmen No other vehicle has created so many happy memories for its owners and given them so much freedom as the Volkswagen Camper, a love story with an everlasting happy ending. This book is dedicated to the Camper’s owners, fans and admirers around the world. It is a homage to freedom, versatility and the courage to be yourself. From China to America, from Great Britain to Japan, from Australia to its German homeland, the Camper brings people together and has countless personal stories to tell.

2 Members only?

1 Bulli Love Edwin Baaske Delius Klasing Verlag

New York, Hamburg, Monaco, Palma, London: of all the yachting clubs in the world, only a handful stand out thanks to their history, their sporting activities and the example they set for society. Once the reserve of eccentric old men, they have grown into businesses with modern company structures, ready and able to organise large sporting events. This book offers a glimpse behind the scenes and shows, for example, how the Royal Club Nautico Palma de Mallorca changed from a socialite hotspot centred around actor and pirate film hero Errol Flynn to one of the world’s leading sailing clubs under the active patronage of the king of Spain, himself a passionate sailor. In Spain and around the world, famous and influential people such as Aga Khan, the Roosevelt family and members of the British monarchy have participated in the club’s sporting and social success. Values like tradition, sportsmanship, seamanship and etiquette are treasured and protected accordingly by the yacht clubs. The £book «Exclusive Yacht Clubs» explains the structures of these exclusive organisations, exploring their meaning and history, as well as the people who have shaped them and the ships that sail under their flag. Readers will also find out how to become a member.

3 On the Road Get your motor running, head out on the highway. Route 66 is arguably the most legendary road in the world. Photographer Christophe Géral and author Stéphane Dugast set out in style on a Harley Davidson to find out whether this legend is still alive. From Chicago to Los Angeles, their journey takes them 3,933 miles through the endless desert expanses in the heart of America. Along the way, they meet bikers and barmen, cowboys and Indians, and discover more about the Wild West and its legends and secrets than they would have dared dream.

Exclusive Yacht Clubs Svante Domizlaff Delius Klasing Verlag

3 Route 66 Christophe Géral & Stéphane Dugast National Geographic

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THE NEXT

WAVE OF SUVS As the variety of traditional 4x4 manufacturers increases, even luxury car makers are switching to crossovers and are breaking all records. Market research predicts that demand in premium segments will continue to rise. Stefan L端scher, Matthias Pfannm端ller, Hubertus Hoslin Nick Dimbleby, factory

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s a result, Alfa Romeo, Tesla and even Rolls-Royce are planning to release their own softroaders, with Lamborghini also catching up. This subjective selection of current and coming models shows how big the choice will be by 2017.

1 | Brit-Buggy: Ariel Nomad This small British manufacturer is famous for its wacky, light and very fast mid-engine sports car, the Atom. The Somerset-based producer has now come up with the Nomad, a stripped-down two seater intended for tarmac-free driving. This is a new design, with just the floor plate, steering column, instruments and pedals coming from the Atom. It is powered by a 2.4-L-iVTEC four-cylinder engine from Honda that generates 235 hp. Together with a weight of 640 kilos, it can go from 0 to 60 in 3.4 seconds. The Nomad is of course great on the road too, providing you get special permission. Off-road factor: Extremely high, extreme fun.

2 | Ditching the pounds: Audi Q7 The second generation of the Q7, available from this summer, has undergone a bit of a facelift. It’s tighter, more chiselled and sinewy. It’s also shorter and leaner than it’s predecessor, measuring 5.05 m long, 1.97 m wide and 1.74 m high. A lot has changed under the bonnet too. Thanks to its lightweight design, the new Q7 has shed a whole 325 kilos, not only earning respect but also making it more modern and agile in all regards. Initially available will be the 3.0 TFSI with 333 hp, and the 3.0 TDI with 272 hp. Both versions feature an eight-speed automatic gearbox. A plug-in hybrid version, the Q7 E-Tron Quattro, has already been announced and boasts 373 hp of power, 35 miles of purely electric range and standard fuel consumption of 166 mpg. Off-road factor: Satisfactory.

3 | All-terrain opulence: Bentley Bentayga The boys from Crewe have already produced offroad cars, but these were custom models for Arabic and Asian customers. 2016 will see the standard model, whose name comes from a mountain on Gran Canaria but is also supposed to reflect the company’s name and the taiga (no, not the Lada Taiga, it’s a type of forest that’s supposed to be a synonym for wilderness). It’s clear, then, that the luxury 4x4 wants to be taken seriously as an offroader. Bentley are still keeping their lips sealed about the drive. What we do know is that alongside the W12 twin-turbo version (approx 600 hp / 800 Nm), there will be a four-litre V8 turbo and a hybrid model. Off-road factor: Pretty good, but it’s too pretty to get muddy.

4 | SUV XXL: Cadillac Escalade

If you’re the type to get misty eyed when reminiscing about the great off-roaders of old, this gigantic Caddy could be for you. The fourth generation is 5.18 metres long and, just like the good old days, is powered by a 6.2-litre V8 petrol engine with 426 hp and 621 Nm of torque. The first Escalade appeared in 1999, and yet the manufacturer speaks about «a long tradition in the premium market». Fuel consumption? Yeah … let’s skip that. Among the other highlights are LED headlights and 22-inch rims, along with space for up to eight (optional) or a head-up display. As you’d expect, the interior is enormous and very well insulated. For those who want it even bigger, there’s a 5.7-metre long version. Off-road factor: Excellent, providing you have the right tyres.

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5 | The bargain bin: Dacia Duster and Co. So far, the secret to the Romanians’ success has been to produce cars as simply shaped as possible to keep the cost of the metal sheets down. The Duster may be five year old, but the timeless, 4.32-metre long 4x4 is still attractive and looks more robust than it actually is. It cheerfully chugs along powered by petrol (115 / 125 hp) or diesel (110 hp) engines. Off-road factor: No-fuss countryside conquest. For another eastern European alternative, look no further than the Lada 4x4 (it used to be called the Niva and is sold in some markets as the Taiga). It’s reputation for indestructibility is just as legendary as its off-road factor.

6 | Mainstream: Ford Edge Following on from the Kuga and EcoSport, Ford now hopes its new 4x4 will take it up in the world. The Edge, available around the world later this year, wants to be seen not as a softroader, but rather as a trendy full-size car with gritty looks. Coming in at a considerable 4.8 metres in length, the five-door car looks stocky and robust enough, but its average ground clearance and low rolling resistance tyres make it clear that the Ford is designed for the road. Four-wheel drive is available at extra cost. Technical highlights include adaptive steering, along with optional interior noise reduction or front split view camera. The Ford is only available in a turbo diesel version with 180 hp (sixspeed gearbox) or 210 hp (six-speed automatic). Offroad factor: Think about the leasing return!

7 | Beast from the East: Honda HR-V Honda’s 4.3-metre long second generation of the HR-V (the first was available from 1999 to 2005) will be available from late summer and is another 4x4 below the CR-V. The name stands for «High Rider Vehicle» and tells you pretty much all you need to know. This is a compact car on stilts (based on the Jazz), with optional four-wheel drive, designed to take on the Opel (Vauxhall) Mokka and Co. The 1.6-litre diesel engine generates 120 hp, the 1.5-litre petrol engine gets 130. Fuel consumption is 70 and 54 mpg respectively. Both engines come with sixspeed manual gearboxes (with twin clutch available for the petrol engine) and do 0 to 60 in around ten and a half seconds. Modern infotainment systems and camera are included, along with a radar- supported assistance system. The boot also boasts 455 to 1,025 litres of space. Off-road factor: More ground clearance please.

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8 8 | This cat’s got claws: Jaguar F-Pace This big cat from Britain will be stalking the countryside from the start of next year. Jaguar’s first SUV is designed as a high-performance crossover based on an innovative aluminium platform. With space for five, this lightweight alternative is set to challenge the top dogs of the premium segment like the Audi Q5, BMW X3 or Porsche Macan. This «family sports car» will become Jaguar’s fifth model series and is driven by new and efficient four and six-cylinder engines (diesel 163-300 hp, petrol up to 380 supercharged hp). A 500 hp V8 version is due to follow. The off-road factor is promising given that the four-wheel drive system comes from Land Rover.

9 | Confident and carefree: Kia Sorento

The third generation of the 4x4 from Korea goes up against its established competitors with well-balanced design, much room and only slightly larger dimensions (L / W / H: 4.78 / 1.89 / 1.69). It’s confident and well made, with a seven year warranty. The interior features fold-down rear seats, which can also be pushed forward and back. Folding down the rear seats can easily be done from the boot, which offers up to 1730 litres of space, with a third row of seats available as an optional extra. There is also plenty of equipment to choose from. The 2.2-litre, four-cylinder turbo diesel generates 200 hp and 441 Nm of torque, can reach over 120 mph , does 42.8 mpg, has fuel consumption of 6.6 liters and comes with a six-speed automatic gearbox. Off-road factor: Not bad.

10 | A real live wire: Lexus RX 200T Around one year after the NX, Lexus has renewed its successful RX model. It too features an extrovert design, which is even more special in the dynamic F-Sport look. The 4.89-m long five-seater is powered by the same two-litre turbo petrol engine as the NX 200t, generating 230 hp and 350 Nm of torque. This is the first drive unit in the world to have a water-cooled cylinder head for better exhaust properties. The price of 65,000 Francs includes a six-speed automatic gear box, with the RX 350 offering a beefier 3.5-litre V6. The RX 450 h is the top model with a premium hybrid drive (approx. 300 hp), and is due out at the end of 2015. Off-road factor: Try and find a field with a plug socket.

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11 | Al dente: Maserati Levante The Italians have been flirting with the idea of a sporty luxury SUV for years and are due to make an advance in 2016. In both design and technology, the Levante takes its cue from the four-door Ghibli S Q4. In other words, up to 50 percent of the power can be redirected to the front wheels via a multiple-disc clutch. The top-of-the-range model features the well-known 3.8-litre V8 biturbo with up to 530 hp. Moving down the price scale, there are turbocharged six-cylinders (petrol and diesel) generating 250 to 410 hp. The Levante will celebrate its official première in January at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit. Offroad factor: Let’s go find some truffles!

12 | FWD only for now: Ssangyong Tivoli Following on from the Korando, which enjoyed great popularity in Switzerland, the South Koreans have extended their product range downwards this summer. But Ssangyong claim that there is much more to the appeal of the 4.2-metre long five-seater than the price, five-year warranty or seven air bags. In terms of flowery design language, they appear to have excelled themselves: «Nature-born 3 Motion – rhythmic, dynamic, dignified». The vehicle is powered by a new and efficient 1.6-litre four-cylinder petrol engine with 126 hp, but currently only offers front-wheel drive. This makes for a negligible off-road factor. Three equipment levels are available, with diesel and four-wheel drive versions planned.

13 | Plug and Play: Venturi America 15 years ago, Monegasque Gildo Pastor bought the French sports car company Venturi and turned it into a manufacturer of electric vehicles. The latest model is the America. Presented in 2014 for the 30th brand anniversary, the «high-voltage buggy» is taking e-mobility to the dunes and beaches. Powered by a 53-kWh lithium-ion polymer battery and two electric motors (300 kW / 480 Nm), the open-top two-seater can go from 0 to 60 in just four and a half seconds and can keep going all the way to over 120 mph in 14 seconds (!). The maximum speed is 136 mph with a range of 96 miles. The America is made from aluminium, carbon and plastic, and is rear-wheel driven. But be quick, only 25 have been made. Off-road factor: Extraordinaire!

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I SEE

BLUE

Inky, light and Mediterranean shades of blue are all the rage this autumn. Combine elegant, confident shades of dark blue with a light grey for an understated, very masculine look.

BY LAURA

VIII

I JOOP II EMPORIO ARMANI III OMEGA IV BULGARI V JOOP VI RALPH LAUREN VII THOMAS SABO VIII FAY

VII III

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STAR A

ON AN EXTENDED TOUR

77 years of Mercedes four-wheel drive: Off road with the silver star since 1938. Jochen Kruse

Daimler’s innovative AWD tractor with four-wheel steering, 1919

The world’s first four-wheel drive car, according to Mercedes: the Dernburg car of 1907.

«Paul Daimler designed the first passenger car with four-wheel drive in 1903»

The eight-wheel, amphibious MTw1 personnel carrier from 1928.

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he latest generation of Mercedes 4x4s has a long family history. The first branch of the family tree was the G5, presented at the London Motor Show in October 1938 as the «colonial and hunting car» after the German military showed no interest in the vehicle. The model W152 (1937– 41) featured a four-wheel drive and switchable four-wheel steering. Three chassis variants were available as standard: a military «bucket» design, a touring car with side windows and tropicalised folding top, along with a simpler bucket car for use by the police, for example. Power was provided by a two-litre, four-cylinder engine with 45 hp at 3700 rpm. The four-wheel drive was fitted with three locking differentials and the gearbox provided five forward gears, the first of which was reserved solely for off-road driving with a reduction ratio of 7.22:1. The handbrake acted on the drive shaft, with the wheels all suspended individually. The G5 had a top speed of 53 mph. With the four-wheel steering activated, the owner’s manual recommended not exceeding 18 mph. Despite its technical perfection and the range of available models, the G5 remained a fringe product, with only 378 vehicles built in total.

The history of the four-wheel drive goes back even further As early as 1903, Paul Daimler, son of the company founder, produced the first design with four-wheel drive. In 1907, the so-called Dernburg car was produced for travelling in Africa. Based on a truck, it was designed to function as a passenger car. In 1934, production began on the powerful, six-wheel G4 car (model W31) at the company’s plant in Untertürkheim near Stuttgart. Power was transmitted to the two rear solid axles via the drive shaft. Two locking differentials ensured good off-road mobility, with a gradeability of 43 percent at full load. Even so, only 57 vehicles were produced in all motor variants by 1939. Aside from these, Mercedes has always had off-road-capable commercial vehicles in its product range, from the legendary Unimog to trucks and delivery vehicles like the Vito and Sprinter. But that is a whole different chapter.

Almost 50 years separate the first Unimog (above) and the M-Class (below). 4x4s have since ceased being solely commercial vehicles, but have become lifestyle symbols.

From the luxury G4 cabriolet with eight in-line cylinders and two rear axles to the G5 mountain rescue vehicle, Mercedes has never been short of technical ideas.

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QUATTROPORTE GTS GENTLEMAN WITH 530 HP OR THE GENTLE CONQUEROR Great figures from history have crossed over the Great St. Bernhard pass. At around 2,500 m above sea level, it marks the border between the Aosta valley in Italy and the canton of Valais in Switzerland. Mirella Sidro

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n 1800, Napoleon Bonaparte had his historic crossing immortalised in a famous painting. Sitting grandly astride his rearing horse, he gazes towards the viewer as he rides into Italy. According to legend, the pass was also used by Hannibal when he crossed the Alps in the depths of winter with his elephants to conquer Rome. You can get an idea of how difficult this crossing must have been by visiting the hospice in the summer months. In temperatures of around three degrees Celsius, you are greeted by an icy wind that blows over the mountain lake and the snow-covered cliffs. Now an Italian is crossing back to conquer the world, but this time in peace. It was born in the northern Italian city of Modena, in the Avvocato Giovanni Agnelli plant. It has been built here since 1963. It is the legendary Maserati Quattroporte. This particular Maserati Quattroporte GTS is travelling from its home to the town of Chichester in southern England to visit the Goodwood Festival of Speed. It sits regally, painted in rebel black, with 530 horsepower and eight cylinders under its stylishly shaped bonnet. The radiator grille is adorned with the logo shaped like Neptuneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trident. Its design reflects the Italian attitude to life: speed and sport combined with comfort and luxury.

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Italians place just as much importance on comfort and style as they do on good food. The interior of the Quattroporte GTS is available in three colour combinations. For the extravagant, there is red leather combined with coalcoloured elements woven from silk threads created by luxury designer Ermenegildo Zegna. The driver is virtually lying on a bed of finest silk whilst hurtling along the road at up to 190 mph in comfort mode, or in sport mode to enjoy the full roar of the engine.

Swiss vineyards and French champagne The trip from Modena to Chichester is approximately 930 miles. Before continuing to France, the first break in the journey comes in the idyllic resort town of Montreux on the banks of Lake Geneva in Switzerland. We stay overnight in the famous «Fairmont Le Montreux Palace» luxury resort, which lies directly on the lake surrounded by vineyards and mountain chains. The hotel is an artefact from the golden age of Art Nouveau, when the rich and glamorous would gather at magnificent parties. As you wander through the splendid lobby and the corridors that lead to the traditionally decorated rooms and suites, you sense the ghosts of history right up to the present day. Reims could be described as France’s Mecca for history and cuisine. Or simply as the place where God goes to eat. This is where the grapes that produce champagne are grown and is home to the world’s greatest temple for gourmets. We stay at the five-star château «L’Assiette Champenoise». The guest house combines bourgeois and contemporary style, reflected in the modern decoration of the generous rooms. We dine in the château’s own restaurant, run by the master of the house Arnaud Lallement, one of the best chefs in the world. His culinary skills have been awarded three Michelin stars and five toques from Gault & Millau. The chef’s creations are rounded off with champagne and cheeses from the region. On the way to the Eurotunnel, we pass France’s most famous race track at Circuit de Reims-Geux, whose doors were shut in 1970. The corners were deemed too dangerous after many drivers lost their lives. Today, the only noise heard here is the chirping of crickets in the fields that surround the skeletons of the pit stops and stands. Nevertheless, the legendary track is worth a short stop.

In good company

Fast cars and slow food The quote «We have fast cars and slow food» from the northern Italian region of Emilia Romagna sums up the region pretty well. «Slow Food» promotes the pleasurable and conscious attitude towards the food that comes from here: Aceto Balsamico di Modena, Lambrusco Modenese, Parmigiano Reggiano. The list of culinary delights goes on and on. Before the journey begins, we are spoiled with Italian dining culture.

The Goodwood Festival of Speed is the catwalk for the fastest and most beautiful cars from all eras from around the world. The festival is held in the grounds of Goodwood House, owned by racing enthusiast Lord March, and is famous for its 1.15-mile hill race. Participants must overcome nine corners, partially boxed in by a high stone wall. For three days, visitors can watch the priceless cars in the pits and in the rally. It is essentially a huge open-air car museum. Maserati is also in attendance to showcase its models. With a bit of luck, we’ll be able to sit in the GT as passengers in the race and feel the power of its engine. Goodwood is an adrenaline-fuelled end to a stylish journey. «Neptune’s trident is the sceptre of the world» goes a saying from the 18th century. Maserati’s logo seems to be a very good choice.

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FASHION Katharine Hepburn | Woman of the Year

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MOVIES

CREATE

FASHION We still don’t know how often a film star creates a fashion trend by wearing a particular dress, suit or accessory. But we do know that film exerts an astonishing impact on fashion. Lilly Steffen Annex

Dorothy Lamour

«What I wear attracts millions.» – Dorothy Lamour –

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Marlene Dietrich

A Classic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Marlene Slacks The fact that actors can continue to play their roles in what is meant to be their private lives has a lot to do with their outfits. Marlene Dietrich had designer Travis Banton to thank for the sparkling appearances that were defined by her unique and provocative style. Bantonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contrived, tried-and-tested masculine suits ensured Dietrich always made her trademark grand entrance, even when she was not filming.

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«I never go outside unless I look like Joan Crawford the movie star. If you want to see the girl next door, go next door.» – Joan Crawford –

Joan Crawford | Letty Lynton

ostume designers have a massive influence on films because they determine the visual appearance of each character. Their work also determines whether a production is successful. Costume designers have a great deal of responsibility: they are not only creative artists, but often also historians, researchers and skilled artisans, all rolled into one. Cinema and haute couture play by different rules. Some costume designers have even reinvented the colour scale. For example, Orry-Kelly realized that a rustcoloured dress would look blood-red in a black-and-white film, making it much more intense than in real life.

Wardrobe of the stars Dressed in the slacks of a Marlene, the little black dress of an Audrey or the leather jacket of a Brando, even your average girl or boy-next-door would feel that little bit more rakish, daredevil and extravagant. Marlene Dietrich had a particularly powerful influence as the curtain gradually rose to reveal the emancipated woman. Girls with bobs and the skimpy satin dresses of the Charleston era looked like Louise Brooks and Clara Bow,

the personification of big city attitudes. Our grandmothers’ generation discarded their corsets, pearls and fringes to dance to the rhythms of the Charleston and the Shimmy. This generation was replaced by strong career women like Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo and Norma Shearer – the kind of self-made women who wore body-hugging dresses and classic tailor- made suits. With her slacks, flowing dresses and short hair, Joan Crawford became the girl next door with an exquisite and expensive wardrobe. During the first big break in her long career, she engaged Gilbert Adrian, MGM’s star costume designer, to be her stylist. Strong women like Crawford had to dress the part. Adrian designed geometrically cut dresses with huge collars, wasp waists and shoulder pads. This became Crawford’s signature style and Macy’s sold over half a million of such broad shouldered creations. Fashions gradually became more and more diverse with the advent of the sporty Katherine Hepburn, the sex bomb Marilyn Monroe, the young rebels James Dean and Marlon Brando and the erotic Sophia Loren. In the eighties, Madonna put fishnet vests and lacy gloves on the map in her movie «Desperately seeking Susan».

Costumes create Actors In the film «Sabrina» Audrey Hepburn played a chauffeur’s daughter who is sent to Paris for cooking classes. When she returns home, she has transformed herself into a sophisticated young lady with the help of French couture. To illustrate this metamorphosis, Paramount hired a genuine French fashion designer – Hubert de Givenchy. The first collection from this young designer had sent shockwaves through the fashion world, so it was not surprising that the movie was awarded an Oscar for Costume Design. A lifelong friendship evolved between de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn. From then on, the French designer was the star’s private and professional stylist. His sense of colours lit up the silver screen. His red coats, apple- green suits and that shocking pink dress really caught the audience’s imagination. And then there were his hats. They provided the perfect frame for Hepburn’s face. Audrey Hepburn herself commented: «Givenchy’s creations always gave me a sense of security and self-confidence. Work was much easier when I knew my appearance was

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perfect. It was the same in my private life: Givenchy’s outfits gave me a sense of being protected when I was with strangers or in unfamiliar situations because I felt so good in them. I have been shaped by Hubert de Givenchy.» If clothes make the man, then costumes certainly make actors. And costume designers create fashions that are desired by millions of people.

Design or Disaster! Film history has also had its fair share of fashion flops. In 1931, the famous Coco Chanel failed by clinging too hard to the very particular style of her label. Her inflexibility meant she failed to recognize a new fashion trend and her costumes for Gloria Swanson in «Tonight or Never» proved to be a flop. In brief, it is the substance of failures. Coco Chanel failed to calculate how long it takes for a film to move from the design phase in pre-production to being ready for release. In the meantime a new, accentuated silhouette had come into fashion and longer skirts were now a must. Madame Chanel’s mistake was to stubbornly cling on to her designs from the late 1920s.

The Concept of the Muse The Thirties and Forties were the heyday of the Hollywood Look. During this time, a new kind of femininity was created, which swept through the stores on New York’s 5th Avenue. Now cinema either competed against fashion designers or tried to flirt with them. Adrian was the most influential costume designer in Hollywood. He mainly worked for MGM, where he styled Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Jean Harlow, Lana Turner, Judy Garland, Katharine Hepburn and many others be-

Reference List Film and Fashion // Fashion in Film Regine and Peter W. Engelmeier Prestel-Verlag Fashion in Film Véronique Le Bris Edel Verlag

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«We had stumbled on a real recipe for success: a non-stop fashion show of amazing dresses.» – Gloria Swanson –

Gloria Swanson | Father Takes a Wife

tween 1928 and 1948. Adrian was the pioneer for a generation of costume designers who were couturiers at heart. The movies were their boutiques, the actresses their models and the silver screen their catwalk. Today, when fashion magazines adorn their covers with images of major stars, it is only because these actresses have contracts with the top labels. Fashion is once again staking its claim on movie stars. The concept of the muse is the latest episode in this relationship between film and fashion.

Muses and Designers While Lauren Bacall was raising the bar in Hollywood with her masculine suits, in Paris Dior was launching his New Look. They were followed by Ava Gardner in her pencil skirt, Audrey Hepburn with her Givenchy silhouette and Brigitte Bardot in her Mary Quant mini skirt. As for Catherine Deneuve, she idolized Saint Laurent, while Jeanne Moreau was devoted to Pierre Cardin.

BLACK WHITE � Who loves black and white? If bright autumn shades are not for you, why not step back and dress in eternally chic black and white? The perfect way to bring classic black bang up to date.

BY LAURA

VII II V V IV

VI I HERMÈS II BURBERRY III MICHAEL KORS IV MICHAEL KORS V HERMÈS VI MOLLY BRACKEN VII RALPH LAUREN

III

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10 QUESTIONS FOR

The «Basic Instinct» diva talks about fashion, beauty and the love of her life.

Which garment is always in your bag when you travel? Black leather leggings and a white shirt or Cashmere pullover – you’re always well-dressed, and with high heels you always look sexy. Which character traits can you enhance with the right clothing? Contentment and self-confidence. When did you discover your love of fashion? Oh, I was three or four years old when I put on my first little fashion show in my parents’ bedroom. Later I used to browse through my mother’s magazines and cut out my favourite outfits. Can you remember your key moment in f ashion? I’ve always loved movies from the Twenties, Thirties and Forties. The women looked so fabulous. Their clothes were really elegant and feminine. That really impres sed me and I wanted to dress like that too.

You’ve started modelling for the Airfield label again. How has the industry changed over recent years? Everything has speeded up. Now a photo shoot only lasts a day. And the fabrics are now much more comfor table and beautiful. The emphasis has shifted towards comfort. Is there a special source of inspiration in your life for new projects? It comes from within. As soon as I feel something could be good, I give it a try. It’s important to listen to your inner voice. What is the love of your life? My three children – I can’t imagine life without them. What are your best attributes? Warmth, honesty and a great deal of discipline. Have many of your dreams come true? Yes, lots of them. And the best thing is that it’s made me a very happy person. What does beauty mean to you? For me, beauty is something you can discover every day if you go out into the world with your eyes wide open.

III

�le�ance

�� BY LAURA

CASUALE

Smart casual in attention-grabbing colours. Women who dress in smart casual style like to look relaxed but elegant, so they often opt for jeans and a blouse. Give this style your own personal twist by accessorising in strong colours.

I BULGARI II FABRIC FRONTLINE III HERMÈS IV RALPH LAUREN V STEINWAY & SONS VI MICHAEL KORS

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PRESENTS

COLLAGES by Nora Ermatinger

In the autumn of 2014, Nora Ermatinger completed her training in photo design. Internships with Dennis Savini and Gerry Nitsch taught her a great deal about photographing food and people. She also had an opportunity to assist Quentin Bacon in New York. Since then she has worked as a freelance photographer in fashion and features and has always enjoyed producing collages. She loves fashion photography because it gives her the freedom to be creative. It allows her to create different worlds and to work with some great people. For her, fashion and art photography are closely linked. The starting point for Nora Ermatingerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collages is a particular emotion or mood, which she tries to communicate through the right images. She then thinks about colours and shapes and gathers ideas. In this way she soon has a specific image in her head. She then needs several shoots to complete the work. She uses Photoshop to combine the individual images and create the finished collage. She has founded the Nonophotography label with her colleague Noemi BrĂ¤m. The two photographers are working together to create a fashion portfolio. They have been photographing the collections of young designers and working with new shops.

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2006 – 2011 Liceo Artistico, Zürich 2012–2014 specialized course in photo design, Zurich School of Design 2012–2014 internships with photographers in Zurich and New York Since 2014 freelance photographer, mainly in fashion and features www.noraermatinger.ch

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FASHION CLASSICS

PONCHO Sarah Jessica Parker, Cara Delevingne, Olivia Palermo … there’s one thing they all have in common! Burberry ponchos – stylishly embellished with their own monogram. Lone K. Halvorsen

oft wool and cashmere blankets have become fashion must-haves thanks to the famous brand with its trademark checks. At last autumn’s fashion shows, Burberry designer Christopher Bailey casually draped ponchos – which looked remarkably like horse blankets – around the shoulders of his models, starting a real fashion mania. But unlike many garments, the poncho manages to stylishly bridge the gap between stable and catwalk. Ponchos have popped up regularly over the years, but Bailey looked back in the Burberry archives and was inspired by their vintage capes. Of course the other fashion houses have followed suit and produced ponchos that provide a stylish alternative to the coat this autumn. The word poncho comes from the language of the Mapuche (an indigenous tribe in South America). It is a sleeveless garment that is pulled over the head through an opening in the middle. The cape is often confused with the poncho, but the cape has slits for sleeves on both sides. In Europe, the poncho is only worn by women, but in South America it is popular with both sexes. This iconic

style has been worn in Peru since the 5th century and is the embodiment of South America’s textile culture. Fashion was not the focus back then – ponchos were very functional garments because they protected the wearer from wind and weather. But the fashionable ponchos with traditional patterns would not make you look like a member of a Peruvian street band, so it’s important to follow a few rules: short women should wear short ponchos, tall women longer ponchos. And be careful with knitted accessories – after all, who wants to look like an alpaca? In this case a pair of fine leather gloves perfectly complements the look. Skinny jeans and boots are the classic look, but you could dare to try it with sneakers. Less is more – when you wear a stylish poncho you don’t want to steal its thunder. The beautiful Raquel Welch realized this when she wore little more than a poncho in her movie «Hanni Calder» in 1971. … We hope you’ve now learned that ponchos are not all about pan pipes!

A cool gaze through narrowed eyes, a chewed cheroot in the corner of his mouth. Clint Eastwood was the man with the Colt and the poncho. Eastwood probably wore one of the first ethnic-inspired ponchos in his Spaghetti Western, «A Fistful of Dollars» A few years later he exchanged his poncho for a sports jacket and created a new hero, Dirty Harry.

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GOLF FAIRWAY FASHION

No other sport celebrates its history quite like golf. And this includes golf fashions. Lone K. Halvorsen

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Kjus

FASHION

When the very first golfers teed off in the Scottish town of St. Andrews, they were wearing long, flowing robes. There’s some debate about whether it was the Scots or the Dutch who invented the game back in the 14th century. But at least we don’t have to ask whether they were allowed to wear jeans on the course.

Dress code Golfing etiquette is very important. It governs players’ behaviour but also stipulates that «suitable clothing» must be worn on the course. Golf’s rather antiquated image is a thing of the past, but many clubs still set a dress code or ask players not to wear certain garments. Women are generally not allowed to wear sleeveless tops without collars, and men are expected to wear collared shirts. And even on hot days, men and women can only wear shorts if they are the right length. Some golfers like to bend the rules, perhaps by wearing stiff trousers in gaudy colours. But there are other ways of standing out as a player. Even though the rules of etiquette still apply, golf fash-

ions are constantly evolving. Top sportswear manufacturers are waking up to golf’s potential and are keen to ensure their elegant men’s and women’s outfits are stylishly displayed on the course.

Clothing without compromises While playing a round of golf together, the famous Norwegian ski racer Lasse Kjus and Swiss investor Didi Serena decided to launch an exciting new sports collection based on high-performance textiles and strong designs. The main focus was on using very stretchy fabrics, which allow players the freedom of movement that is so vital when doing sport. What began as a skiing brand soon grew and expanded, and in 2010 they launched their first golf collection. «Kjus» clothing is made with innovative performance fabrics that are light, soft, quiet and stretchy. Keen golfers all over the world who are looking to make their mark in all conditions can rely on these materials to keep them feeling totally comfortable. The garments in the Kjus golf collection feature strong colours and sporty, timeless designs that have been thought out in every detail. Kjus ambassadors Max Kieffer and Caroline Martens have now been joined

The Ladies Sugar Dress from Kjus. A sporty golf dress with functional features and a cool retro look.

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«I accept no compromises when it comes to clothing design and performance.» – Didier Cuche –

by two-time Ryder Cup winner Peter Hanson. PRESTIGE chatted to the likeable Swedish golfer about clothing etiquette and his dream flight. PRESTIGE: How did you begin working with Lasse Kjus? PETER HANSON: I took a look at his collection last year. Then during the last PGA I got to know CEO Didi Serena, and we soon decided we’d like to work together. For me, it’s really exciting to work with a brand that is at the forefront of both performance and style. What’s most important - looking good, performance or comfort? Performance is very important! It’s all about staying dry, inside and out. In the USA we generally play in hot weather so of course we need breathable, light fabrics that keep us cool. But when we’re playing somewhere like Scotland we also need protection from the wind. And of course comfort is important, because when we’re playing golf we’re always changing position. When we’re putting we have to bend our knees, and it’s important we don’t feel restricted in any way. Kjus garments are really stretchy so they never hamper my swing. Which piece of clothing has to be the most functional? Trousers are the most important! It’s so important to have freedom of movement when you’re playing. Is there a colour that you would never wear on the course? Absolutely! But of course things are different in different parts of the world. For example, something that’s fashionable in Europe may take a while to catch on in the US. Do you agree that there should be a dress code in golf? A lot has changed over the last five to seven years. In the past, people didn’t really like wearing golf clothes when they weren’t on the course. But times have changed.

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What goal did you set yourself at the start of the season? My goal was to finish in the top 50. My position at the end of the season is vital if I’m going to be invited to play in the top tournaments. But so far I’m optimistic that I’ll hit my goal. For 2016 I’m focusing on the Olympic Games. What do you think is the main weakness in your game? It used to be putting, but now I have back problems, so the physical side is probably my main weakness at the moment. How did you start playing golf? To be honest, it’s because I wasn’t good enough to play tennis! I would have loved to be a tennis professional, but I just couldn’t cut it. But when I was 14 I discovered I had a talent for golf, so I switched sports. What is your dream flight? Stefan Edberg, Roger Federer and I love Formula One, so it would be a dream to have Michael Schuhmacher on the flight.

The Men’s Sevve HZ half-zip windbreaker from Kjus has high-tech features yet fits easily into every golf bag.

With their floral print, the Ladies Inu Bermudas will certainly stand out on the course.

LADIES FIRST There’s a good reason why the principle of «ladies first» doesn’t apply on the tee. Just imagine – a woman is playing golf with a group of men. The men drive off and set off down the fairway, almost forgetting to wait at the ladies’ tee. Now the woman drives off and the men set off again as soon as she hits the ball. The woman watches the flight of her ball, picks up her tee and puts her club back in her bag. She follows on after the men. She normally hits the shortest drive, so she’s first once again. The men are already waiting near her ball, making her feel under pressure. So, gentlemen, please curb your impatience and be prepared to play golf with the ladies. It would be a shame if the only time they played golf was on Ladies’ Day.

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BEAUTY & BEAST NAOMI CAMPBELL

She was one of the most sought-after models in the world, and at the age of 45 she still looks stunning. Naomi models two elegant designs from the «Made to Measure Atelier» Collection by Italian underwear label La Perla. Even when she was a young girl, Naomi knew she wanted to be famous. She dropped out of school and went to London to attend drama school. At the age of 15 she was spotted by Beth Boldt, the head of a famous modelling agency. Just one year later she was on the

6 QUOTES «I love Britain, especially its food.» «There’s nothing better than a delicious bowl of pasta.» «I have no regrets. I’m healthy!» «I don’t believe that I was born beautiful. I was simply born myself.» «You have to make mistakes. That’s how you learn how the world works.» «I’ve earned a lot of money but I’m worth every penny.»

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cover of the British «Elle» and went on to appear on the cover of all the world’s top fashion magazines. In 1988 she was the first black model to feature on the cover of British Vogue. On the catwalk, she has modelled for all the top designers and worked with world-famous photographers. She is well known for her extraordinary beauty, but also for being a diva who gets into catfights and even resorts to violence. But her beauty means that people tend to forgive her notorious tantrums. Men flock after her, and her many famous conquests include Mike Tyson, Robert DeNiro, Eric Clapton, U2 bassist Adam Clayton, Flavio Briatore, Tommy Lee and Usher. She had a long-standing friendship with Nelson Mandela.

«If a woman wants to know what life is like without a man, she should get married.»

Candy

COLOURS

BY LAURA

I DOLCE & GABBANA II PARMIGIANI III MULBERRY IV GENIE IN A BAG V RADLEY VI GRAFF VII ROBERTO CAVALLI

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V Light colours for dark days: if strong autumn colours are not for you, why not banish gloomy days by accessorising in pastel shades? This autumn, even classic black sunglasses are giving way to light blues and soft pinks to ease us gently into winter.

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BIO DE

THE ECO-LUXURY CLASS

LUXE Batik pants, Birkenstocks and baking spelt bread under a full moon. In the past, natural cosmetics were considered to be only for tree-huggers and hippies who grew their own vegetables, long before the advent of ÂŤurban gardeningÂť. But now a new generation of high-end beauty products means that organic beauty has a touch of real luxury. Steffi Hidber

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Interestingly, it is mainly young, dynamic businesswomen who have recognised the need to meet the growing demand for gentle, natural and green skincare and make-up products by creating quality niche brands. In the past, natural cosmetics may have been formulated very cleverly, but they just weren’t sexy. Now all this has changed with the rise of luxury organic brands. Of course natural cosmetics giants such as Weleda, Dr. Hauschka and Annemarie Börlind supply excellent, effective products for the skin and hair. But what about customers who are looking for effective ingredients and the shopping experience offered by major luxury brands? Such consumers are increasingly choosing organic foods, taking up yoga and meditation and drinking green smoothies in order to keep their bodies in Instagram shape.

The solution With a little know-how and a good marketing team it’s possible to launch a luxury natural cosmetics brand. Young, dynamic brands such as Susanne Kaufmann, Lina Hanson and Kahina Giving Beauty show that spoilt consumers are keen to use expensive natural cosmetics. Harvard graduate

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As a beautician, Laura Schurter struggled with her own sensitive skin problems, but soon realised that her skin felt so much better when she used natural, organic skincare products. Now she is also delighted to see how demand is soaring and has set up her Greenlane portal to offer a range of new organic brands from around the world. She also sells beautiful cosmetic brands, including Kjaer Weis and Ilia, who are now finally providing real alternatives to the cosmetics giants, such as MAC and Lancôme.

Skincare using precious plant extracts Tata Harper is a leading organic skincare brand. An engineer by training, Tata set up her eponymous label in 2011 because she simply couldn’t find what she was looking for elsewhere. «When I started looking for natural, non-toxic alternatives to the synthetic creams that I had been using for years, I realised there was a huge gap in the market. Clearly no-one was offering 100 % natural skincare products that were totally uncompromising in terms of their effectiveness, texture and scent. So I drummed up a group of experts from all over the world to create Tata Harper – based on the very latest research that promised real anti-aging results.»

and young entrepreneur Anna Baumgartner picked up on the trend at an early stage when she opened her Biomazing online store. She clearly believes the future lies in luxury organic brands. «In terms of quality, it’s clear that luxury natural cosmetics are the best products on the market. It’s not possible to take rare, highly effective raw materials and ingredients and craft them into handmade products using industrial manufacturing processes, just as a Birkin Bag can never be mass-produced! Now that the effectiveness of luxury natural cosmetics has been proven, discerning customers are looking for – and finding – special, premium- quality ingredients and products that really work. For a time, it was difficult to get hold of high-end natural cosmetics. We wanted to change all that with Biomazing, and the demand has proven we were right.»

In the luxury sector, Tata Harper is joined by a number of other interesting brands. They have already attracted many devoted followers - including many celebrities – from all over the world thanks to their quality range of effective skincare products. For example, make-up artist Lina Hanson counts many Hollywood stars among her clients, including Naomi Watts, Natalie Portman, Brooke Shields and Ewan McGregor. She knows only too well how demanding «pampered skin» can be. Many organic beauty retailers say her top-quality face and body serums are some of their most popular products. But her own favourite beauty product is not a luxury oil. It’s «simple» coconut oil. «I use coconut oil for everything. I add it to my green smoothies, use it for oil pulling (a cleansing ritual involving swishing oil around the mouth for 10 to 20 minutes), as a hair mask and make-up remover. It can be used in so many ways – you just have to make sure it’s certified organic and untreated.»

Many of the new luxury natural cosmetics brands come from Europe: Susanne Kaufmann has built up her small-but-beautiful organic cosmetics empire from her hotel and spa in Austria’s Bregenz Forest, while in Switzerland four friends (and subsequently their children) have now been running Farfalla for 30 years, producing natural, organic beauty and skincare products. The UK and USA have produced some rather more media-savvy ’stars’ who proclaim their green lifestyles through selected products and present themselves as icons of the new trend towards sustainability. May Lindstrom is not only a former model but also a young mother who has recorded the process of setting up her high-priced skincare products on Instagram, Facebook and her own blog. She describes the whole process from design through to sales, in this way building a personal relationship with her customers. Some people might think it’s just hype. But the ingredients used in these new luxury products have always been highly valued, and they are often gentler and more skin friendly than their high-tech clones.

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WEB TIPS www.biomazing.ch www.greenlane.ch www.shetime.ch www.allforeves.com www.beingcontent.com www.spiritbeautylounge.com www.niche-beauty.com

Natural cosmetics with a luxury bonus Coconut oil is one of the shining stars of natural cosmetics, but there is also a whole range of new, precious plant oils with extraordinary properties that benefit the skin, such as marula oil from South Africa, baobab oil from Africa and camellia seed extract from Japan. For Christina Roth, an international make-up artist from Berlin, these precious ingredients lie at the heart of her UND GRETEL make-up line. Working with her colleague Stephanie Dettman, her small label has recently begun producing long-lasting cosmetics in strong colours, including mascaras, eye liners, eye shadows, lipsticks and beautiful foundations and powders. Every product has to meet their own high standards as make-up professionals. «We found natural cosmetics lacked that touch of luxury that brightens up our everyday lives. So with UND GRETEL we have brought together two contrasting elements – premium high fashion and certified natural cosmetics.» For businesswoman and model Kartika Luyet, it was this gap between what was wanted and what was available that drove her to set up her «ecotrendy» range of nail polish, Kure Bazaar. «We wanted to create a formula that was as natural as possible but without compromising on quality and durability. The polish had to be tough, long-lasting, fast-drying and very glossy … and of course it had to come in a range of great shades. In other

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words, it was quite a challenge» In the world of natural cosmetics, nail polish is the most difficult product to manufacture because durable nail polish generally needs hardening – and therefore toxic – ingredients. So Kure B azaar went as far as possible, with the current formula containing 85 % natural ingredients. «This is the highest percentage we can use while still guaranteeing good results.» Kjaer Weis runs a leading luxury make-up brand of the same name. For her range, the very best ingredients are combined with environmentally friendly but beautiful packaging. Since launching her stunning make-up products (including «Radiance», a highlighter which has won many beauty awards), this native of Denmark has become one of the leading lights of the fashion scene, particularly because of her heavy metal compacts. The shiny, silver packaging give the product a very expensive feel, but the compacts are also very easy to refill. Her products are also totally free of ingredients such as phthalates, propylene glycol, parabens and mineral oils. She sums up her philosophy in a few words: «We have solved the problem of what’s «good» or «bad» for the skin by quite simply not using anything «bad». There are now so many wonderful natural beauty products for skin and hair, so it’s easy to cheat on your much-loved luxury brand just a little by trying out one of the new organic alternatives. You might even discover a completely new way of feeling good. And at worst you might find a gentler alternative with a feel-good factor. Isn’t that something we all deserve?

A DISCOVERY FROM A TO Z Herbivore Botanicals Ilia John Masters Organics Kahina Giving Beauty Kjaer Weis Kure Bazar Lina Hanson May Lindstrom Rahua Richard Lüscher Britos RMS Beauty Spa Manufactur Susanne Kaufmann Tata Harper The Organic Pharmacy UND GRETEL Vestige Verdant

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LINA HANSON Global Face Serum, 30 ml VESTIGE VERDANT Bioactive Detox & Anti Aging Mask (200ml)

ABSOLUTION La Crème du Soir, 30 ml

KJAER WEIS Lip Tint in Dream State

UND GRETEL «Lieth» Foundation (30ml), in five shades

TATA HARPER Volumizing Lip and Cheek Tint

INDIE LEE Swiss Apple Facial Serum, 30 ml

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SENSES

Get naked, smoky-style Have you ever bought a beauty product then found you have absolutely no idea how to use it? Naked Smoky is self-explanatory and very easy to use at home. Smoky eyes need more than just lots of smudgy black and a hard-as-nails attitude. Naked Smoky from Urban Decay has everything you need for the perfect look, from the right brushes to the perfect shades. And the XXL make-up mirror turns touching up your make-up into selfie time! www.urbandecay.com

A sea of white roses Seven years ago a very special rose was born. Sensual and powdery. A gentle fragrance that was fresh and unusual, like a second skin. It was a huge success from day one. After Chloé Eau de Parfum, L’Eau de Chloé and Roses de Chloé, a fresh chapter is now starting with the launch of a new, delicate fragrance: Chloé Eau de Toilette. It echoes the distinctive beauty of its predecessors in all its facets. It’s all about roses, just like every other variation of the original perfume. But this time it is lighter and softer than ever before. From the very first notes, Chloé Eau de Toilette emanates a special kind of freshness. www.chloe.com

A new legend is born Skin Caviar, the phenomenon from La Prairie, marches on with three fantastic new products. The iconic Skin Caviar Collection has now been rounded out with Skin Caviar Luxe Cream - Sheer, designed to meet women’s needs and desires for a choice of textures. La Prairie has also joined forces with Baccarat, artisans of fine crystal. The limited Edition Caviar Spectaculaire is a breathtaking masterpiece of legendary craftsmanship, timeless elegance and beauty. www.laprairiegroup.com

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Exquisite gin with a taste of the exotic BOMBAY SAPPHIRE®, the world’s leading premium gin, presents STAR OF BOMBAY™, a new super premium gin. It highlights the extraordinary balance of BOMBAY SAPPHIRE thanks to the addition of exotic botanicals and a slow distillation process. STAR OF BOMBAY is based on the same ten hand-picked botanicals that are used in BOMBAY SAPPHIRE gin: juniper from Italy, coriander from Morocco, lemon zest from Spain, orris from Italy, angelica from Germany, bitter almond from Spain, licorice from China, Chinese cinnamon from Indochina, cubeb pepper from Java and grains of paradise from South Africa. These characteristic notes are lifted to a new dimension in STAR OF BOMBAY. Gently dried Bergamot orange peel from the mountains of Calabria, Southern Italy, provides a fragrant, rich citrus note; while the floral musk of ambrette seeds from the tropical yellow hibiscus flower from Ecuador supply a graceful elegance. Along with these new botanicals, the elegant liquid captured in each bottle is created by slowing down the signature BOMBAY SAPPHIRE Vapour Infusion process. This increases the level of oil extraction from the botanicals, building richer aromas and more intense flavours. www.bombaysapphire.com

«Let us say what we feel and feel what we say. Let speech harmonise with life.» – Lucius Annaeus Seneca –

My Grandmother Asked Me To Tell You She’s Sorry Fredrik Backman Authorised audio version Narrated by: Heiko Deutschmann Directed by: Doreen Maas Runtime: 9 hours, 7 minutes, 7 CDs Publishers: Argon Hörbuch Verlag

If you liked Ove, you’ll love grandmother and Elsa! Grandmother is 77, a doctor, a little chaotic, and someone who drives the neighbours crazy. Elsa is 7, loves Wikipedia and superheroes and only has one friend in the world: grandma. Elsa has the most exciting adventures thanks to grandma’s fairy tales. Until one day grandma sends her off on the greatest adventure of her life - into the real world. «Promise you will still love me when you find out who I used to be. And promise you will look after the castle. And your friends», she says to Elsa. Fredrik Backman hit the top of the bestsellers list with his debut novel «A Man Called Ove». With his second novel, «My Grandmother Asked Me To Tell You She’s Sorry», Backmann once again shows off his virtuosity as a writer.

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PRETTY FOR

AUTUMN BY LAURA

Matt black and studs – a rock chick look witha very feminine touch. T h i s aut u m n, P r et ty Met a l i s t he l at est tr end for beauty pr oduc t s. At its heart lies a really effective moisturiser to make your skin glow on dreary autumn days.

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I HAIRDREAMS «STOP&GROW PHT ELIXIR» The new, powerful hair growth serum. II GUERLAIN «KISSKISS ROSELIP» Hydrating and plumping tinted lip balm with essential oil of rose. III GUERLAIN «NAILIFT LA BASE» Perfecting and protecting nail care. IV YVES SAINT LAURENT «COUTURE PALETTE COLLECTOR» The perfect embodiment of the Pretty Metal mood. V RETROUVÉ Revitalising Eye Concentrate. VI LANCASTER «365 SKIN REPAIR» 365 Skin

Repair Serum protects the DNA and optimises skin function by setting it to «reboot».

VII CHANEL «LE LIFT» Eye concentrate instant smoothing- a nti-aging. VIII DIOR «EXUBÉRANTE» 5 shades For those mysterious, darker days O. 4» Soft when summer is over. IX EVIDENS «L’EAU PARFUMÉE N top notes of bergamot and neroli are enhanced with a hint of blueberry, releasing the fragrance’s floral heart notes of narcissus, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose. This soft, feminine fragrance also contains musk, frankincense, vanilla and cedarwood.

X LANCÔME «HYDRA ZEN» Beauty Essence 24-hour,

non-stop hydration to refresh the skin.

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«A perfume is nothing without human skin.» Steffi Hidber

Behind this exciting perfume brand there is one man. Externally, his im posing presence makes him look more like a doorman or farmer. farmer. This will not have escaped the notice of his colleagues in the perfume industry, but this native of Russia and Dane by choice displays his more lyrical side in his passion for fragrances. In the eight years since he launched his own Zarkoperfume label, he has not only become the first Danish perfumer but also one of the world’s most exciting fragrance creators. He began his career at a French vineyard, before returning to Denmark and opening a fashion boutique in 2000 with a view to selling his own designs.

He wanted to create a signature fragrance for his customers, something that would capture the «scent of the North». Ahlmann loves the North above all else, and he wanted his perfume to reflect the exciting contrasts offered by vast landscapes, total silence, forests and seas, the midsummer sun and the deep, dark night. He worked with several renowned perfume laboratories in Italy and France, but none of them came up with what he was looking for. So in 2008 he decided to realise a new dream. He sold his boutique and trained to be a perfumer. His career has been shaped by his passion for the perfumer’s art. His approach is to fuse classic French perfumery with stringent molecular science.

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Fragrances that are different on different people Zarkoperfume creations are not built on the traditional fragrance pyramid of top, middle and base notes which develop and disperse at different, rates. Instead they are based on minerals which, in combination with selected essential oils, develop their own fragrance only through fusion (skin contact!) with the pheromones of the wearer. To put it more scientifically, Zarko Ahlmann creates pure molecular fragrances with a unique scent. This means that the fragrance remains on the skin with the same intensity for several hours without changing. What’s exciting about that? The fragrance itself does not develop different facets, but it changes according to your skin temperature and environment. Unlike a traditional fragrance, this is not a straight-line development where you notice the top notes first, then the middle notes emerge after a while … and finally, after a whole day, only the base notes are left. Instead, these perfumes take you on an exciting journey. Because a Zarkoperfume can suddenly disappear, only to reappear a little later.

This phenomenon is particularly pronounced in his most famous perfume, MOLéCULE 234°38, as this really does consist of just one big molecule. The connection between this molecule and the wearer’s skin lasts around ten hours before it dissipates. This is what makes the fragrance so unique and evolving. All these six fragrances have their own unmistakable signature and contain sophisticated ingredients and molecules that evolve in different ways in different people. It took Zarko six years to get his five fragrances ready for the market. Today he sells six creations in selected boutiques and concept stores around the globe. His five-person team also includes his wife and childhood sweetheart Lene. He is driven by his vision of making fragrance an individual experience. «A perfume is a work of art like a painting or a musical composition. It should be all about the fragrance, the essence, not about marketing or elaborate packaging rituals.» Ahlmann knows that developing and manufacturing a perfume is a life-long process. We can look forward to a future of exciting fragrances!

The Zarkoperfume fragrances e’L - Zarko’s declaration of love to his wife Lene, with a warm, profound character and a fresh, tangy tone. INCEPTION – A homage to the dream sequences in Christopher Nolan’s film of the same name, with an incredible six phases that tell a complete story. MOLÉCULE 234°38 – Zarko Ahlmann Pavlov spent six years perfecting his masterpiece: «Your aura. Intensive like never before.» OUD’ISH – A highly sophisticated Nordic interpretation of the mysterious oud, presented in two parallel phases. PINK MOLéCULE 090°09 – Pink champagne and «Denmark’s dark forests» were the inspiration for this light, tangy scent of elder, with a hint of sandalwood to give it an edgy depth. MOLéCULE No. 8 – The latest Zarkoperfume creation promises «Light and dark. At the same time.» Or the scent of a Polar night, exuding a sense of strength and hope.

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HERE!

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Autumn’s I

We reveal the most seductive fragrances in the most beautiful bottles. Subtly delicious vanilla notes or lavishly floral, woody scents, all in contemporary, luxurious packaging. There really is something for everyone. BY LAURA

I THIERRY MUGLER II ESTÉE LAUDER III THOMAS SABO IV BOTTEGA VENETA V APRIL AROMATICS VI HERMÈS VII MIU MIU

IV III

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THE QEEN OF COSMETICS HELENA RUBINSTEIN She was one of the world’s most successful cosmetics entrepreneurs. It all began with twelve little jars of cosmetics. When she was 18, she began studying medicine in Krakow and Zurich, but later dropped out. She emigrated to Queensland in Australia and worked as a nanny for her uncle. Her mother had given her twelve little jars of face cream so that she could look after her skin while she was far away. She gave some of them to the local ladies in Coleraine. Her first business idea was to import and sell the creams, but later she began making her own creams. In 1899 she opened Australia’s first beauty salon in Melbourne. Soon after, she decided to return to Europe. In Paris, she studied under the most famous skin doctor of the time, and also learned more about nutrition and facial surgery. After the outbreak of World War I in 1914, Helena Rubinstein moved to the USA. In 1915 she opened a beauty salon in New York and set up Helena Rubinstein Inc. In 1920 she launched her own «Helena Rubinstein» brand. From then on, every tube and jar of beauty products bore her name. Although Helena Rubinstein liked to show off her wealth, she could also be very miserly towards others. She bought jewellery and artworks by the dozen, but always demanded a third off for buying in bulk. Her wardrobe largely consisted of garments that her maid had copied from Parisian haute couture. As a businesswoman, Helena Rubinstein was a pioneer. Designers and artists created luxurious flacons and packaging for her products. Writers produced advertisements, brochures and the inhouse magazine. Famous architects created exclusive beauty salons, which were truly «temples of beauty». So it is hardly surprising that after her death she left behind a cosmetics empire valued at 17.5 million US, with 100 branches in 14 countries and 30,000 em ployees. She also had a private fortune in excess of 100 million.

5 QUOTES «I have always felt that a woman has the right to treat the subject of her age with ambiguity, until, perhaps, she passes into the realm of over ninety. Then it is better she be candid with herself and with the world.» «Ideas, ideas, that’s what we need.» «There are no ugly women, only lazy ones.» «Although days only have 24 hours, I worked 50.»

«Work has been my best beauty treatment.» «Hard work keeps the wrinkles out of the mind and spirit.»

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DID YOU KNOW…? … that a bottle of Chanel Nº 5 is sold every 30 seconds? Coco Chanel’s Nº 5 has been on the market since 1921 and is the most popular women’s fragrance of all time. French chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux created the scent from more than 80 different ingredients that were stipulated by Coco. This timeless perfume is dominated by notes of jasmine, rose and lily of the valley. Even its minimalist, elegant bottle has attained cult status. Its design may be 94 years old, but it looks as fresh as ever. In 1959, MoMA (the Museum of Modern Art, New York City) honoured it with a place in its permanent collection, and Andy Warhol featured it in a series of prints in 1964. A bottle of Chanel Nº 5 is sold every 30 seconds.

… that mascara was invented by a man? The sister of chemist T. L. Williams burned her eyelashes and brows when she was cooking, so he decided to find a product that would help her. In 1913 he mixed together coal dust and Vaseline to create a jet black paste, creating the world’s first mascara. It was so successful that he went on to found Maybelline. The name Maybelline came from the name of his sister, Maybel, and Vaseline. The company has enjoyed huge success over the years, and its Volume Express mascara is the world’s most popular mascara. Polish make-up brand Helena Rubinstein also broke new ground in the world of mascara. In 1939 it developed the very first waterproof mascara, and 20 years later it launched the Mascara Matic, the first automatic mascara. This kind of mascara is still used today: a mixture of oils, waxes and pigments in a small tube with applicator brush.

… that Nivea Creme is 105 years old? Originally a manufacturer of plasters, Nivea sold its first – and still its most popular – skin care product in 1911: white Nivea Creme in a blue tin. Pharmacist Oscar Troplowitz worked with dermatologists and chemists to create this classic product. He used lanolin, an emulsifier obtained from sheep wool, to make the cream particularly rich and long-lasting. The cream was named Nivea after its bright white colour. Nivea comes from the Latin word nivius, meaning «snow white». Its composition has changed little since then, though the packaging now looks a little different. For the first 13 years of its life, the cream came in a khaki-coloured patterned tin before the classic blue tin was introduced. The new colour was meant to reflect the changing attitudes of the 1920s with its fresh, sporty look. In 2007 Nivea’s owners, the cosmetics group Beiersdorf, even went so far as to seek to patent the dark blue colour.

LIVING Foto: 8H Image by Jens Lindhe

«For me, architecture is the means, not the end. It’s a means of making different life forms possible.»

– Bjarke Ingels –

YES IS MORE! «Architecture seems to find itself in a quandary: either naively utopian or stultifyingly pragmatic.» Lone K. Halvorsen

Bjarke Ingels Group / BIG

The Maritime Museum of Denmark The building meets the strict conditions that were set: the museum is only 1 metre high, but descends 10 metres below ground.

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Photo: SOF Image by Luca Santiago Mora

«I think architecture is rarely the product of a single ideology. It’s more like it can be shaped by a really big idea. It can accommodate a lot of life forms.» – Bjarke Ingels –

LIVING «Museet for Søfart», the Maritime Museum of Denmark in Helsingør am Øresund, Denmark.

This may sound a little utopian but that’s how it should be, because Yes is more! The philosophical basis of the company is reflected in its abbreviation and provides scope for further interpretation. BIG means BIG thinking with BIG ideas from BIG thinkers who push the envelope and aim to create truly great architecture! And how to avoid architecture that is naively utopian or stultifyingly pragmatic? Ingels says: «A pragmatic utopian architecture aims to create spaces that are socially, economically and environmentally perfect.»

Urban Utopias

IG! No other abbreviation could have been more fitting for the Bjarke Ingels Group. Bjarke Ingels is young, bold and already internationally acclaimed at the age of 40. Since 2005 he has headed up the architects firm with the name of BIG – now with offices not only in Copenhagen but also in New York and Beijing. In 2001 he had already attracted international attention with his first company, PLOT, which he co-founded with Julian de Smedt. The two of them quickly gained the recognition they deserved, winning the Golden Lion in Venice in 2004 for the design of the concert hall in Stavanger, Norway. Despite their huge success they went their separate ways in 2005 and Bjarke Ingels founded BIG.

Boldly Pragmatic with Visionary Tendencies With his bold ideas and extraordinary projects, Bjarke Ingels is one of today’s top young architects and BIG is undoubtedly a high-flying architectural firm. His Style: boldly pragmatic with visionary tendencies. His Philosophy: Yes is more! His objective: architecture that is flexible and innovative and adapts itself to current conditions. This creates spaces that function without compromise and respond to as many needs as possible.

He builds dwellings in the shape of a curved eight, apartment blocks in stone to look like mountain landscapes, and he even hides a waste-to-energy plant beneath a ski slope. Ingels himself says: «Architecture has always been governed by extremes: by an avant garde full of crazy ideas drawn from philosophy or mysticism and by highly organized consultancy firms, who construct predictable, boring boxes to a high standard.» BIG commits itself to the crazy ideas, but its unorthodox designs are not only zany but also sensational, functional and sustainable. The «Mountain Dwellings» is another of BIG’s crazy ideas. Dating from 2008, it is also one of their best-known projects. Indeed, it is a pretty bizarre project that turns out to be even more off-the-wall in real life. The experimental architects twisted the various stacked functional elements, constructing a building in which the independent living and parking components are connected symbiotically with one another. They built an artificial 34-metre-high mountain and, with a 1:3 ratio, the apartments function as the roof of the four-storey parking garage. The apartments were constructed in tandem in a stepped style, so the terraces were planted and laid out with a permanent irrigation system which serves the apartment above. It makes a mockery of the idea that parking garages are the grey places where murders are committed that we see in the movies. Here, they are bright and colourful and built using dozens of pillars – in some areas the ceiling soars to 16 metres, giving it a cathedral-like air. In Mountain Dwellings, the simple principles of lifting, lowering, turning and shifting have created a sensational building – you could even imagine moving into the parking garage.

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Foto: MTN, Carsten Kring

Mountain Dwellings

Not far from Copenhagen, in Helsingør on the river Øresund, we find Kronburg Castle, a World Heritage Site. This is where Shakespeare’s Hamlet lived and died. And located on a headland facing Sweden, it was also a major passageway between the Baltic Sea and the North. This was where Danish sailors left their country, perhaps never to return. So it is the perfect place for a maritime museum. But after a hundred years the Danish maritime museum, «Museet for Søfart» had to leave Kronburg Castle at UNESCO’s request. But there was one condition: the new building could be only one metre high, so as not to spoil the view of Kronburg Catle. As we have come to expect from BIG, the new building is stunning! This time the building was constructed quite differently: «Although it is below the surface, we have constructed the highest building we have ever designed for Denmark», say Ingels. The condition was adhered to and there

is still an unrestricted view of Hamlet’s stage. Below the turf they laid a 150 metre long, 25 metre wide, 10 metre deep cement dry dock (the pillars go down another 30 metres). With this, Bjarke Ingels became the king of the paradox, as his hallmarks had previously always been hills and mountains. He has managed to create a new, implosive architecture which no longer needs to explode above the earth. The tilted bridges and steep stairs make visitors feel like they are on the high seas – not a problem for a seafaring nation like the Danes.

Big, bigger, Bjarke Ingels So who is the young Dane who is making his mark in the earth? Bjarke Ingels was born in Copenhagen in 1974 and in 1999 completed his studies at The Royal Danish Academy for Art and Architecture. «I knew absolutely nothing about architecture. The only architect I’d ever heard of was Jørgen Utzon. I really had no preconceived ideas» says Ingels. For a long time he dreamt about becoming a comic artist and he only applied to the Danish Academy because he thought his studies would involve a lot of drawing. His breakthrough came when he worked with the renowned architect Rem Koolhaas and set up his first company with Julian de Smedt. Considering that he originally wanted to be a comic artist rather than an architect, he has certainly had his share of success.

FURTHER READING «Yes is More» is an easy-to-read, radical manifesto from Copenhagen-based architectural firm the Bjarke Ingels Group, or BIG for short. More like a comic than a typical architectural book, it communicates its unique agenda for contemporary architecture. The play on words, Yes is More, sums up the company’s philosophy, its lack of respect for excessive formalism and its determination to involve the masses. This monograph presents the company’s approach and results using that most appealing and popular form of communication: the comic. Yes is More. An Archicomic on the Evolution of Architecture Bjarke Ingels Group Pocket Publisher

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INSIDE OUTSIDE LIVING.

The frameless insulated sliding doors by Sky-Frame blend naturally into their surroundings. So it is hard to say where the living room ends and where the view starts: WWW.SKY-FRAME.CH

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ARCHITECTURAL

OF THE HOTEL INDUSTRY Torches, flames and broken fragments – when seeking inspiration for new hotel buildings, architects do not limit themselves to classical structures. The more extraordinary the look of a new hotel, the more potential it has to become a new city landmark. Secret Escapes

1 | Stationary ship: Titanic Beach Lara

2 | Like a Gift Bow: Hotel Marques de Riscal An exquisite and unique exterior has been created by renowned architect Frank O. Gehry for the Marques de Riscal Hotel in the small wine village of Elciego in Rioja, northern Spain. Wave-shaped, brightly coloured steel plates tumble over each other to form the roof of the building. Unveiled in 2006, the hotel has just 46 rooms. It offers its guests a fine selection of local wines and a Michelin-starred restaurant.

3 | London: The Shard The Shard is the skyscraper that has dominated London’s skyline since 2014. This narrow, pointed glass tower is one of Europe’s tallest buildings at 310 metres and with 72 floors. It is home to the five-star Shangri-La hotel, At the Shard, London. Each of its 202 rooms provides breathtaking views over the city and the very highest standards of comfort.

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Foto: www.ilkercanikligil.com

For anyone who is prone to seasickness but who would like to overnight on a cruise liner, the Titanic hotel chain has created the perfect solution. This hotel complex at Lara on the Turkish Riviera is in the shape of a giant cruise ship and goes by the fitting name of «Titanic Beach». Opened in 2003, the hotel’s 589 rooms are designed to look like cabins.

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Photo: Shangri-La Hotel, At The Shard, London

4 | In the Copenhagen skies: AC Hotel Bella Sky Copenhagen

Photo: AC Hotels by Marriott

The two slender towers of the AC Hotel Bella Sky Copenhagen, which opened in 2011, look as if they have been twisted by the wind. Only the bridges between the two towers seem to be stopping them from crashing together. With its 812 spacious rooms and Nordic style, it is one of the largest hotels in Scandinavia. The literal highlight is the Sky Bar on the 23rd floor of the complex, with its sublime views over the city.

5 | Flaming Towers at the Caspian Sea: Fairmont Baku Baku is in flames. Perhaps not literally, but anyone who looks at the skyline of Azerbaijan’s capital from a distance will see three towers rising like torches into the sky. This is an amazing sight, particularly when they are lit up at night. The architects, Francis Krahe and Associates, were inspired by Azerbaijan’s Persian name, «Land of Fire». The five-star Fairmont Baku Hotel is located in the Flame Towers.

6 | A Ball for China: Sunrise Kempinski Hotel

Photo: Sunrise Kempinski Hotel, Beijing

Many people think it looks like a marble that is rolling into the water. But in fact the Sunrise Kempinski Hotel, which opened in 2014 on Lake Yanki close to the Chinese capital of Beijing, was designed to symbolise the rising sun. The facade of the 97- metre high ball has been assembled from 10,000 pieces of glass. The topmost of its 306 rooms and suites provide a glimpse of the Great Wall.

7 | Qatar’s Flaming Torch: The Torch Doha Like an over-sized Olympic torch, the 300-metre high Aspire Tower rises in the heart of Doha, the capital of Qatar. The highest building in the emirate, it was built for the Asian Games in 2006. Its distinctive appearance has led to it being nicknamed the «Torch». The Torch Doha is also the name of the five-star hotel that is located in the tower.

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Photo: Aspire Zone

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Directly above the Formula 1 racecourse in Abu Dhabi, the Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi provides its guests with the most exclusive and impressive view of the action. The roof consists of 5,100 rhombic glass panels and steel connectors, which can be lit up in an array of colours. The luxury hotel was unveiled in 2009. It has 499 rooms and highlights include a ballroom and rooftop swimming pools. It is the work of the visionary architects at Asymptote Architecture.

Photo: Viceroy Hotel Group

8 | Above the Racecourse: Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi

Leaning at almost 20 degrees, the Hyatt Capital Gate tower looks like a modern take on the Leaning Tower of Pisa as it climbs up into the skies above Abu Dhabi. Architects Robert Matthew Johnson Marshall were rewarded with an entry in the Guinness Book of Records. Opened in 2011, the hotel’s rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows, providing guests with spectacular views of the coastline.

10 | Sailing Boat on the Coast of Dubai: Burj Al Arab One of the most world’s best known wonders of modern architecture is Dubai’s Burj Al Arab, which opened in 1999. On an artificial island, the building was designed by Tom Wright to look like a sail. The 321-metre-high building has become Dubai’s landmark. One of the most expensive hotels in the world, the hotel offers its guests luxury suites, nine world-class restaurants and a private beach.

Photo: Jumeirah Group

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Photo: Hyatt Hotels

9 | The Leaning Tower of Abu Dhabi: Hyatt Capital Gate

ICONIC HOTELS IN ICONIC PLACES

Captured on iPhone

FAR FROM THE

MADDING CROWD

A SWISH OF DOORS. AN AIR OF TRADITION. A GRAND PROMENADE. THE TINKLE OF TEACUPS. THE TALK OF THE TOWN. THE DORCHESTER.

LONDON

+44 20 7629 8888

DORCHESTERCOLLECTION.COM

JUBASSIN The classy design basin from natural stone and glass sets the stage for bathrooms. A timeless design for bathrooms and spas. Beautifully finished natural stone is combined with dramatic glass elements. The combination of heavy, top-quality natural elements with lightweight, modern materials give it a very distinct character. www.juma-exclusive.com

Zoe & Noe (RED) Alessi supports the (RED) initiative to raise money for the fight against AIDS and increase society’s awareness of this issue. Alessi has created special editions of two of their iconic bestsellers: the «Anna G». and «Alessandro M.» corkscrews for (RED) the work of designer Alessandro Mendini. www.alessi.com/RED

The word «Zoe» means «life» in Greek. It is no coincidence that the youthful lounge chairs from Italian furniture manufacturers, Verzelloni bear this name. With their soft seats that elegantly sweep into the flexible back support, they invite you to let go, relax and enjoy «Zoe» – life. Noe takes Zoe a step further by turning the lounge chair into a sofa. Noe still has Zoe’s generous, informal shape. www.verzelloni.it

ERY The 142-year-old company, Dietiker, has launched ERY, a light but sturdy bench for indoors and out. This item is the work of the innovative Swiss designer Andreas Saxer. It was vital that the material used – in this case aluminium – would comply with the requirement that nonflammable materials must be used for escape routes in public places. www.dietiker.com

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CU The CU curved wire chair is perfect for using indoors and out. The design has an Asian look, so it is no surprise to discover that its designer, Avinash Shende, is of Indian origin. There are many different wire chairs on the market. But the CU wire chair is made from a single piece with no screws, making it extremely stable. www.seleform.ch

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This season BoConcept is presenting a surprising new design collaboration. To produce the Monaco sofa, the traditional Danish company has for the first time collaborated with Dutch designer Frans Schrofer. Both parties share a love of urban, modern design â&#x20AC;&#x201C; unconventional, but never forgetting the fundamentals of function, good looks and comfort. www.boconcept.com

MONACO

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DESIGN CLASSICS

The chair has long been a fixture in Copenhagen’s Art Museum and New York’s MoMA. Who would have guessed that an egg could make such an impact on the world of design? Lone K. Halvorsen

In my next life I’d like to be a gardener», Arne Jacobsen used to say. So it’s a blessing that he decided to dedicate his first life to beautiful objects. Whether an ant, a swan or an egg – Jacobsen knew how to combine aesthetics and functionality, and he worked tirelessly to make everything as aesthetically perfect as possible. When he received the contract for the SAS Royal Hotel in Copenhagen in 1958, he designed an architectural gem that bore his signature in every detail, from top to bottom. At the time, Jacobsen did not receive the recognition he deserved for his work on the hotel. Quite the opposite in fact, as the hotel was voted the ugliest building in the city. Nevertheless, this «gem» went on to become a Danish icon of international style. The interior of the hotel revealed dozens of iconic designs, including the legendary Egg™ chair. Jacobsen said: «I am choking on aesthetics», but it was precisely this aesthetic sense that brought him the international fame that still lasts today. Jacobsen began by deciding to design a chair to go in the hotel lobby. This chair should provide a certain degree of privacy in a public space, while at

NAME Arne Jacobsen BORN & DIED *1902, † 1971 Kopenhagen APPRENTICESHIP Apprenticeship: stone mason; ACADEMIC STUDIES architecture at the Royal Danish Art Academy Copenhagen

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the same time its shape should provide a contrast to the building’s vertical and horizontal lines. Der Prototyp entstand in J acobsens Garage. where he made the first plaster moulds. At the time it was very avant garde to consider creating the seat, back and arm rests in a single piece. Finally a chair was produced that gave its occupant a sense of security and protection, as though they were nestling in a cocoon – or even better, like a chick, safe and sound inside the egg. Since its creation, the Egg has been produced by Republic of Fritz Hansen. At first it was a flop, but this sculptural piece of furniture made its breakthrough in the Seventies, and even made its Hollywood debut in «Men in Black». Whether Jacobsen would have been amused about this remains a secret – locked in the Egg.

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«The right shape cannot be seen. It can only be felt. It is right when you sit in it.» – Arne Jacobsen –

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Hubert le Gall’s Pinocchio series goes perfectly with his credo: «Design is a lie».

A game of shapes and colours. A confusing game! A sculpture or a piece of furniture?

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FURNITURE FROM

WONDER LAND

Hubert le Gall brings art into the living room – in the shape of furniture. The Frenchman uses a lot fantasy and humour to create functional art objects.

On his journey to becoming a successful artist and designer, the French sculptor Hubert le Gall decided against pursuing art studies and taught himself art. He seems to have done a good job of it because his playful, innovative furniture is popular. He became well-known because of his large sculptures that were inspired by the famous surrealists. He was successful in creating furniture from bronze, wood, metals and materials. His style: a playful elegance. An armchair with rabbit ears or a table with small magnetic balls – you have to look twice at Hubert le Gall’s creations: his designs

Ruinart

create a sense of surprise in a living room and invite you to play. Through his work, the sculptor wishes to encourage people to reflect. Many museums have already bought his works and they can also be seen in the the dining room of the Mayor of Paris. PRESTIGE met with the artist at Art Basel, where he presented his «Glass Calendar», which he designed for the Champagne house Ruinart. We spoke with him about his adult version of «Alice in Wonderland» and glass blowers of Murano.

Rabbit Chair

Yvonne Beck

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PRESTIGE: Who are you and what do you do? HUBERT LE GALL: I am Hubert le Gall. I am a designer and I pursue my passion. I love my work and this is very important these days. Everything I make, I make with passion and I want each day of my life to be a special day. Are you more of an artist or a designer? I have often heard this question, but I am still not really sure how should I answer it. I am very sure that I am not a pure designer. I pursue more of a sculptural vision. I however dislike design that insists on always telling the truth. It’s a design that lies. A lamp, for instance, must also be able to cast really good light and not just look beautiful. A chair on which one cannot sit is absurd. Then it cannot call itself a chair, it’s a mere sculpture. That’s why I would say, yes, I am a designer because I do not create pure sculptures, but I am more of an artist. As an artist I am not inspired by everyday life, instead I am inspired from art itself – my wish is to remove art from its high pedestal and bring it closer to people. It’s for the first time that you have started working with glass. Why did you decide to work with it this time round? I usually work a lot with bronze but also with plaster and wood. It was always my dream to work with glass. But one needs a lot of time to work with it and I have very little of that. That’s why I kept postponing to work with glass again and again. But two or three years ago, I visited an exhibition on Murano glass and I had the desire to spend someday three or four months in Murano, to meet the glass blowers and to learn from them. I wanted to understand this material. A little while later, Ruinart approached me and asked me whether I’d make a sculpture for them. And then it was clear for me: Ruinart – Champagne – glass. It was incredibly interesting and fascinating. I think, now, I will work more often with glass. With glass, I can show and express things, which previously eluded me. Glass is full of colour and shape and the silhouettes that arise out of it are just unique. In this case, it’s the transparency, the light refraction and the range of colour that makes the material perfectly reflect the Chardonnay.

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Where did you draw your inspiration from for this project? To find inspiration, I took many walks in the vineyards of Sillery in the hilly terrain of Reim – in the historical wine region of Ruinart. Pretty soon I was fascinated by the Chardonnay grapes, which take on various hues of colours in the course of the seasons: from the most different shades of green to radiant gold. Before long I had a vision of a colourful, joyful, vivid, lively work as a tribute to Champagne and its elegance in terms of colour, luminosity and fine bubbles. But instead of one sculpture, you have created twelve … The theme of my works is time – time of the year and working time. There is a time to make Champagne, a time to let it rest, it is always a question of time. I narrate stories, all my pieces of furniture narrate stories and I wanted to approach the project for Ruinart in the same

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Champagne meets Art Since the 19th century, Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house, has enjoyed a close relationship with contemporary art. It all began when Ruinart commissioned Alfons Mucha, a well-known Czech illustrator, to create the first advertising poster. Since then, Ruinart has remained true to art, buying several works of young well-known artist and participating in important art fairs worldwide. Hubert le Gall has created a new limited edition for Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. A tribute to the radiant brilliance of the Chardonnay, the grape of this cuvĂŠe.

His work for Ruinart pays homage to time. The seasons and the ripening grapes.

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manner. And now I have told the story of Champagne in twelve chapters/months, as each month has a new face and the people who work in the vineyard must carry out a different task each month. The twelve sculptures also reflect years of experience that go into making and refining Champagne. It is a tribute to the work of the winegrower, who checks the weather and vineyards daily, so as to respond to the smallest of changes and thus provide optimal conditions for the grapevines. How was it to work with the glass blowers in Murano? It was a bit like being in the army. One was not allowed to speak with the master during work. When I explained to them what I wanted, I was told: «We can make anything out of glass – anything!» And, I must say, they are really big artists in their profession. They are very confident in their abilities, but rightly so. This time the beauty of the works stems especially from imperfection, from its rawness, and its air bubbles. A lot of your works such as the Rabbit Chair looks like that it is taken from the book «Alice in Wonderland». Do you not wish to be an adult? I love to play. I want to connect all senses. My furniture should surprise people. One can play with my furniture, touch it and it can even change many people. I also love the confusion and discussions that surround my pieces «Is it a sculpture? Is it art? Is it design? Is it furniture?»

Which book do you have on your night table? An auction catalogue. Your favourite designer? How far back does the word designer go? Is a craftsman who lived and worked during the golden age of Pompeii a designer? He, in any case, combines all the characteristics that I appreciate in decorative art. The knowledge of a unique quality and a great deal of imagination. If the term designer refers only to my contemporaries, then Ettore Sottsass is certainly one of the designers who interests me. And your favourite artist? Impossible to choose just one. I never miss an opportunity to visit the Water Lily Room at the Musée de l’Orangerie. I consider it to be one of the most beautiful works worldwide. It is music for the eyes. The basis for the modern art. In three words: art is for you …? Art is a must. And what is design for you? Design is a good lie!

What is your favourite virtue? In an artist: honesty … even if it’s a flaw. What is absolute an luxury for you? Silence. It’s becoming rarer. I do not like people or things that are continuously loud; I try to avoid them.

Hubert de Gall at a Murano glassblowers.

Your worst and the best quality? People say I am too fast, too impulsive, too impatient. I am an unmitigated optimist. I rarely look back at my past. I erase things from my memory, I just carry on, I forget, I forgive.

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Le Gall: an artist whose works tell stories.

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COPPA Classic and timelessly beautiful, the candlestick holders from De Giorgio allow candles to burn with a pure elegance!. The Coppa and Trave 6 candleholders combine opulence and colour for glamorous, candlelit moments. In a complex process, the metal is burnished and polished before being chromed, silver-plated or plated with 24-carat or 18-carat gold. www.degiorgiogalleria.ch

TEATIME Teatime is a distinctive lamp and side table all in one. Thanks to its leather covered wire handle, Teatime also evolves into a mobile light source to accompany you when darkness falls. With its beautiful, fine details, Teatime is a functional piece of art. www.bielefelder-werkstaetten.de

SPOKES Spokes is the new pendulum light by Foscarini. Its name comes from its resemblance to the spokes of a wheel and its shape is reminiscent of bird cages and antique oriental lamps. Its soft, light shape makes it appear almost weightless. The lampâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s design is enhanced with solid metal rods and practical LED lights, which provide direct lighting while still creating a magical play of light and shadow. www.foscarini.com

CUNA Patricia Urquiola from Agape has used her expert knowledge of fabrics and production processes to create this new design, the Cuna bathtub. Deep-drawn from the Solid SurfaceÂŽ mineral compound, the curves of this small, compact tub are reminiscent of a crib. This association is enhanced by the surrounding steel tubes, giving it its name, Cuna (crib). www.agapedesign.it

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WESTERN ART MEETS JAPANESE TRADITION ISAMU NOGUCHI Isamu Noguchi, the son of the Japanese poet, Yone Noguchi, and the American author, Leonie Gilmour, was born in Los Angeles in 1904. He studied at Columbia University and at the Leonardo da Vinci Art School. He went on to set up his own art studio and in 1927 was awarded a Guggenheim scholarship. He then became the assistant to Constantin Brancusi in Paris and held his first exhibition in New York. He studied the art of brush painting in China and worked in clay under Jinmatsu Uno in Japan. His experience of living and working in different cultures is mirrored in his creative activities. Isamu Noguchi is a real all-rounder, creating sculptures, stage sets, furniture and lamps and also designing interiors, public spaces and gardens. His sculptural style is bound up with

an organic language of shapes and had a lasting impact on design in the 1950s. Noguchi believed his best piece of furniture design was his coffee table, probably because it closely resembled the bronze and marble sculptures that he was working on at that time. He directly translated their bio morphic shapes into a sculptural piece of furniture. The coffee table’s heavy glass plate rests on two identical wooden elements at right angles to each other. American-Japanese artist, Isamu Noguchi has produced some extremely complex designs. His dining table is one of the 20th century’s most elegant designs. With its round cast-iron pedestal and base frame made of chromeplated rods, it is very sturdy without ever looking heavy. From 1951 onwards Noguchi designed his Akari light sculptures – over 100 handmade table, standard and ceiling lamps made from Shoji paper. He chose to call them «akari», a Japanese word meaning brightness and light, and which also conveys a sense of ease and lightness. Isamu Noguchi died in New York in 1988.

4 QUOTES «Weight gives meaning to weightlessness.» «We are the landscape of everything that we have seen.» «My father, Yone Noguchi, is Japanese and his poetry has long been known as the translation of the East for the West. I would like to achieve the same with sculpture.» – Noguchi’s application for the Guggenheim scholarship.–

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«The light of an Akari shines like the light of the sun, when it is filtered through Shoji paper. The magic of the paper transforms the cool electricity back into the eternal light of the sun so that its warmth can fill our rooms at night too.»

Tradition meets Innovation

Suter Global Communication

Zbären Kreativküchen AG Bahnhofstrasse 26 . CH-3777 Saanenmöser . Telephone +41 33 744 33 77 design@zbaeren.ch . www.zbaeren.ch New: Showroom Bern, Gerechtigkeitsgasse 29, CH-3011 Bern, Telephone +41 031 311 18 80 Official Dealer

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Photo: Nico Schärer

THE

OF LAKE LUCERNE Nenad Mlinarevic joins the world’s elite chefs with «focus».

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Dr. Thomas Hauer

Photo: Nico Sch채rer

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Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Nenad Mlinarevic

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Making comparisons is always difficult. Particularly when we’re talking about a chef’s particular style. But in fact the stylistic contrasts that define today’s topflight cuisine have changed little since the days of Carême and Escoffier. Generally, they are still closely linked to the names of a few star chefs. Switzerland is no exception, despite the fact that it only has a few top chefs. Indeed, while Andreas Caminada has for many years been the undisputed creative force behind Switzerland’s culinary avant-garde, it is Benoît Violier with his passion for the best and finest produce who is the current king of classic haute cuisine. Just about every Michelin-starred chef in Switzerland falls roughly into one of these two schools.

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decorative. He is always seeking out new ideas and trying to evolve.

Photo: Nico Schärer

Mlinarevic hails from Zurich but has Serbian roots, which he honours in «focus», his fine dining restaurant on the banks of Lake Lucerne. His cuisine is indubitably one of the most modern and innovative to be found anywhere in Europe today. It was not for nothing that Mlinarevic spent two years as Caminada’s sous-chef, and he has twice worked with Joachim Wissler as a guest chef. But he also has the most profound respect for ingredients, something he particularly learned from the leading lights of New Nordic Cuisine around René Redzepis. Mlinarevic worked with the latter at Noma, his acclaimed restaurant in Copenhagen. His creations also display glimmers of classic haute cuisine, which the 34 -year-old chef learned under Claus-Peter Lumpp at Restaurant «Bareiss» and «Tantris» in Munich. Despite these influences, Mlinarevic’s dishes are characterised by their captivating simplicity, as is the case with other exceptional chefs such as Thomas Keller or Alain Ducasse. At the same time, his creations are easy to understand and quite simply fun!

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Ideas from nature

But only just. In Nenad Mlinarevic, a man has entered the international culinary stage and joined the ranks of the very best in a few short years. Perhaps this is be cause he has consistently refused to be pigeonholed in this way. With a right arm covered in tattoos of vegetables, dressed in skinny jeans and a T-shirt, Mlinarevic certainly smashes the usual stereotypes. His tough exterior conceals a razor-sharp mind, boundless creativity and a high degree of sensitivity. Although he is relaxed during our interview, he is also extremely focused. He is not one for inconsequential chit-chat. Aided by his team of three under Sous-Chef Pascal Steffen, he serves up to 35 guests five evenings a week. Behind the heavy chef’s table there are rows of cookbooks that are clearly more than just

Many of his colleagues seem to be obsessed with luxury products or like to laboriously deconstruct their ingredients until they are practically unrecognisable. They then employ a whole battery of texturisers to glue them back together and create alginate spheres, solid foams or gaudy dollops of gel. Meanwhile, Mlinarevic is simply following his own path. This is why many young chefs are finding their way to Vitznau to learn from him and hone their skills. Mlinarevic draws his main inspiration from nature, the natural rhythm of the seasons. The aromatic and intellectual value of his creations is a result of his careful selection of ingredients that are rarely used in traditional haute cuisine. Common ingredients such as radish, beetroot, kohlrabi and cabbage are found alongside more unusual items, such as canola, beeswax and wheat grass. Every day the chef and his team gather fresh wild herbs and flowers from the slopes of Mount Rigi. Mlinarevic likes to use traditional techniques, so his menu often includes foods that have been fermented, smoked or preserved in some way. They are served up in a wide variety of ways, but the essential ingredients are always clearly recognisable. This is an approach that is far removed from the culinary mainstream, which clings on to the safe trio of soft, sweet and pleasant. Mlinarevic is not afraid to play with sour, salty and spicy flavours. His ninecourse degustation menu allows guests to select what they want, taking them on a journey into unknown – and hence all the more exciting – worlds of flavour. In early 2015 Mlinarevic was the first prominent chef in Switzerland to decide to take things a stage further and ban all international luxury products from his menu. This means that in future he will only use seasonal Swiss products. Most of them come from the 80-kilometre radius around Vitznau. The most exotic things are often to be found on your own doorstep. Every course on the menu comes with details of the origin of the main

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ingredients and those that provide the key flavours. So guests learn that the raw marinated whitefish with nasturtiums and camelina vinaigrette comes from Lake Maggiore; that the saffron in the smoked goat’s ricotta with braised artichokes comes from Althäusern; and that the juicy suckling pig with caramelised cauliflower is from Muotathal.

Turnips, haute cuisine style

Setting new standards in presentation At first his creations look almost as if they have been thrown together. But they have been thought through in the minutest detail – though paradoxically this isn’t always totally clear, even to Mlinarevic. An important part of the presentation is the carefully selected tableware. During the meal, Mlinarevic switches between bright white porcelain from Hering Berlin, providing a bewitching contrast between glazed and unglazed surfaces, and simple plates and bowls that reflect Japanese minimalism with their mix of bright and subdued colours. It’s as if every dish is telling a little story. This dialogue of content and form, nature and culture, is continued in the restaurant decor. Modern, almost sculptural furniture that has been stripped back to essentials, a few carefully chosen table accessories, warm colours and beautiful natural materials create an almost meditative atmosphere. Water also has its part to play in this work of art. Diners can look across Lake Lucerne and admire the majestic mountains on its far shores.

Photo: Beat Brechbühl

Some critics like to suggest that this radical departure from mainstream haute cuisine is an attempt to copy restaurants like Noma or to jump on the farmto-table bandwagon. But Mlinarevic has other ideas. For him, this reorientation is simply the logical next step for his cooking. He believes any halfway talented chef can create a passable dish from lobster and langoustines, but it takes real creativity, going far beyond cheap effects, to turn turnips and potatoes into haute cuisine. Of course it involves some risks. At first glance, it seems that Mlinarevic runs the risk of alienating fans of foie gras and other luxury foods. After all, they make up the majority of lovers of fine cuisine in a conservative country like Switzerland. But the Swiss are also patriotic in culinary

terms, and perhaps they really do prefer to see locally grown produce on their plates. A more serious threat is the fact that inspectors for restaurant guides tend to view radical tendencies with suspicion, preferring evolution to revolution. It is true that the Michelin Guide awarded «focus» two stars in the year it opened, but at that time it was for a cuisine that concentrated more on traditional products. But Nenad Mlinarevic doesn’t worry about this. Indeed, he just does his thing, without trying to earn stars and points. And perhaps the key to his success lies in the fact that his cooking appeals equally to the heart, the taste buds and the intellect.

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PURE PLEASURE

SAFFRON THE RED GOLD

Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world. Its crimson threads give dishes a unique flavour and for centuries have been used as a dye and as a treatment for various ailments.

Annabel Roten

very autumn, fields in the Middle East and Mediterra- Real saffron gives dishes an intense, bitter, hay-like flavour and nean region are transformed into seas of purple. This a golden colour. It contains crocin, a natural pigment mainly is when the crocus sativus come into flower, whose found in varieties of crocus and gardenia, so it is also used as a buds yield the coveted saffron. The majority of saffron yellow dye. fields are in Iran, which grows 91 percent of the world’s saffron. It is also grown in Spain, The name saffron comes from the Arab Greece, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. Each word za’fran, meaning «be yellow». Yellow is «What do farmers crocus flower contains three stigmas, which the holy colour of rulers and elites, a symbol know about saffron?» look like thin red threads. They are laboriof happiness and is also associated with – Old saying – ously separated by hand from the rest of the gold. According to mythology, Zeus slept plant, which is not used because it has no on a bed of saffron, and the Romans aroma. It then takes many hours to dry the strewed saffron threads on their marriage threads before they can be used. beds. The Roman saying «dormivit in sacco «Saffron is as arrogant croci» (he has slept in a bed of saffron) as a beautiful woman – At up to 10 Swiss francs per gram, saffron means that someone is feeling cheerful and it demands attention certainly deserves its name «red gold». But full of life. And they were onto something, as from the moment the sun saffron seems to have a positive effect when why is it so expensive? Around two tonnes comes up.» of saffron are grown worldwide each year. we are feeling down. It contains carotenoids – Old saying – The production costs are very high. One and essential oils, which have anti-inflamflower produces just three saffron threads, matory properties and aid digestion. It also but it needs a relatively large area to grow. It stimulates oxygen intake and lowers blood takes over 100,000 flowers and 1,000 pressure. square metres to produce one kilogram of saffron. The harvest period is only two months long, and the saffron has to be picked Saffron really is worth its weight in gold. It is a true all-rounder by hand. These high prices make it tempting to produce fake that acts as a dye, adds flavour to our food, lifts our spirits and saffron. This is done by pulverising pure saffron and diluting it improves our health. with other spices such as turmeric.

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«The cocktail shaker is an instrument of virtuosos, who show off their art in the poetry of the drink.» – Hans Krönlein –

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VIRTUOSOS BEHIND THE

BAR

The golden era of the cocktail is inextricably linked with the names Jerry Thomas and Ada Coleman. The drinks they invented, such as the Blue Blazer and the Hanky Panky, are still classics today. Anka Refghi

he invention of the cocktail was a result of the terrible state of American whiskey in the 18th century, when it was often only rendered drinkable by adding honey, sugar or fruit. The quality of spirits began to improve in the USA at the beginning of the 19th century, thanks to the expertise that arrived with European immigrants. So people started to call these mixed alcoholic drinks «cocktails».

Jerry Thomas

The maestro The father of American mixology was Jerry Thomas. From being a sailor and gold prospector, he went on to become the most famous bartender of all time. No-one could mix a cocktail like him, and his showmanship, which included juggling bottles, glasses and ingredients, was legendary. In 1862 he published a book, «How To Mix Drinks, or the Bon Vivant’s Companion». Today, this is still the bartender’s bible. Thomas travelled far and wide, teaching saloon owners the art of mixing cocktails, and he even came to Europe to work in the very best bars of the time. He was quite clearly a star. It is said that he earned 100 dollars a week at the Occidental Hotel in San Francisco, more than the US Vice-President of the time. He is said to have invented the Blue Blazer in the El Dorado, a gambling saloon in San Francisco. Its preparation involved setting whiskey alight and passing it back and forth between two glasses in spectacular

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The world’s first barmaid: Ada «Coley» Colemann.

The original bars fashion. In 1869 he opened his own bar on Broadway, but he had to sell it after making losses on the stock exchange in the 1880s. Upon his sudden death at the age of 55 in 1885, newspapers across America published obituaries in his honour.

Tailor-made treats In England, Ada «Coley» Coleman, the world’s first barmaid, caused quite a furore. Her father, who was once the steward of the golf club owned by the influential Rupert D’Oyly Carte, died when Ada was 24 . To help her survive, in 1899 D’Oyly Carte offered her a job behind the bar of his hotel, Claridge’s in London’s Mayfair. She was soon conjuring up wonderful drinks for her guests. In 1903 she moved to the Savoy Hotel, where she gained international renown as Head Bartender at the American Bar. Ada mixed cocktails for Mark Twain, Charlie Chaplin, Marlene Dietrich and the Prince of Wales. Her bar was also a regular haunt

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Settlers in America originally sold their food and alcohol in drug stores. But the consumption of alcohol led to fights and shootings, so alcohol sales were separated from the food. Saloons began to spring up around 1800, where the owners protected themselves and their wares with a wooden barrier, which became shortened to «bar», meaning just the counter. It was only later that «bar» also came to mean the whole establishment.

of theatrical agent and actor Sir Charles Hawtrey, for whom she created a bitter cocktail consisting of gin, Italian Vermouth and Fernet Branca. When Hawtrey tasted the cocktail for the first time, he supposedly said: «By Jove! That is the real hanky panky!» – and a legendary cocktail classic was born. Ada Coleman worked at the Savoy until 1924, when she took a well-earned retirement.

New Nicaragua Mini Cigarillos Inspired by Zino Davidoff’s pioneering spirit, Davidoff Cigars went on a quest for a new type of blend to tempt aficionados who are seeking more intense and flavourful experiences. The Davidoff Master Blenders found it in Nicaragua, in the fiery, fertile volcanic earth of Esteli, Condega, Jalapa and Ometepe. The very finest leaves from these Nicaraguan soils have been mixed to create a blend for mini cigarillos that has the perfect balance of sweet and sour. Expertly mixed in the Dominican Republic, the blend has all the sophistication and subtlety that is the hallmark of Davidoff cigars. www.davidoff.com

Amazing cocktails – at home Drink-Syndikat takes cocktail lovers on a journey into a world of wonderful drinks. Now it’s easy to enjoy fabulous cocktails at home. Sip a classic creation from the Roaring Twenties or sample imaginative concoctions from the very best bars in the world: timeless drinks with an unusual twist. Every month, Drink-Syndikat puts together a set of hand-picked spirits from small distillers and other carefully selected ingredients to make six drinks. It is accompanied by a booklet containing two recipes and instructions on how to make classic cocktails and modern variations. Over recent years, the amazing bar and cocktail culture of the «Belle Époque» has seen a remarkable revival. And now you can enjoy it in the comfort of your own home. www.drink-syndikat.de

P.E.P.© for optimum espresso flavour A cool, upmarket cafe or typical coffee shop, a lake view, the soft sounds of a street musician. The sun on your face and the scent of flowers in your nostrils. What more do you need? Of course, a really good espresso - freshly prepared by an expert barista who knows just how you like it. Don’t we all long for that? Now the new Z6 automatic coffee machine from JURA makes this dream come true, any time and in your own home. The machine’s unique technology optimises extraction time and intensifies the flavours. Now coffee at home tastes as good as coffee in the very best coffee shops. With the new Z6, you can prepare every kind of speciality coffee at the touch of a button. During the brewing process, the water is pressed through the finely ground coffee beans at precise intervals. This gives the flavour much longer to develop, bringing out the very best from the fresh beans. Jura’s revolutionary Pulse Extraction Process (P.E.P.©) produces perfect, full-bodied ristrettos and espressos. www.jura.com

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PROFESSIONAL BARTENDERS TELL US THEIR FAVOURITE DRINKS FOR 2015

BITTER FRUITY

Gin with berries and basil: drinks made from juniper schnapps, Vermouth and fruit are enjoying huge popularity. The German’s tend to prefer bitter flavours, while the Austrians like their drinks fruity. In Switzerland most people prefer a mixture of the two flavours. Secret Escapes

1 | A touch of class and refinement in Geneva In the elegant Leopard Bar of the Hotel d’Angleterre, a Secret Escapes partner hotel on the shores of Lake Geneva, guests can relax with live music and enjoy a special version of the classic Bellini cocktail made from Prosecco and peach puree. Head barman Fabio Dotolo only uses fresh white peaches from the local region – syrups and concentrates are banned from his creation. The drink is then finished off with champagne to create the perfect after-work drink for a warm summer’s evening.

2 | A healthy mixture, high up in the Alps With its comfy armchairs and dignified atmosphere, the Altitude Bar at the Kulm Hotel St. Moritz is the perfect place to relax after a day in the mountains. Head barman Alberto Re recommends his guests try a refreshingly tart fruity drink by the name of Bitter Fortune. Gin and Aperol provide a subtle bitter flavour, while grapefruit and lemon juice give the drink a fresh, fruity character. It is garnished with raspberries, blueberries and lemon zest. Bitter Fortune is more than just a refreshing drink. Alberto tells us it is also healthy, as the bitter constituents of the grapefruit stimulate fat burning and help to reduce cholesterol.

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3 | Celebrating with sweet and sour This summer, the historic Hotel Lausanne Palace & Spa is celebrating its 100th birthday. A good reason for Laurent Boulc’h, head barman of LP’s Bar, to honour the hotel with a special summer cocktail, a sweet and sour creation called the Palace Century. It is made with Limoncello, sugar syrup, bitter lemon and a fine white Burgundy from the Chasselas grape. The drink is served on the bar’s panorama terrace with beautiful views over Lake Geneva.

5 | Martini with mint and berries at the Sans Souci Vienna The Hotel Sans Souci Vienna in Austria’s capital also serves up sparkling cocktails. Head barman Holger Gärtner’s favourite summer drink is the Jaguar F-Pace, made with Martini Rosato, Fentiman’s Rose Lemonade and sparkling Prosecco, served with fresh berries and mint in a red wine glass. He gave it this particular name because he thinks the drink is as refreshing as a trip in an open-top sports car. Guests at Le Bar also love their home-made iced teas and fruity smoothies.

4 | A fine herby aroma and blue gin In the Bar Les Trois Rois at the hotel of the same name in Basel, Bar Manager Thomas Huhn likes to offer his guests refreshment in the shape of a Blue London Summer. He mixes blue gin, apple juice and lemon juice with tea and a little honey. A few fresh basil leaves give it a delicate herby flavour. Thomas tells us that gin is currently the most popular spirit. The basil and apple juice in a Blue London Summer makes it the perfect refreshing drink on a hot summer’s day.

6 | Ginger and strawberries at the Hotel Sacher In the Blaue Bar of Vienna’s legendary Hotel Sacher, 2015 is all about ginger. Inspired by the many guests who frequently ask for fresh ginger in their classic cocktails, head barman Johannes Reim has added the mild tanginess of this spice to his fruity, refreshing creations. His favourite is a strawberry ginger cocktail consisting of fresh straw berries, strawberry puree, limes, ginger and white rum. For cocktail fans who like their drinks a little less sweet, he mixes a version with grapefruit and lemon juice and a shot of Campari.

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7 | Berlin loves Vermouth

9 | Mint and pine cone bud syrup

This summer, everyone in Berlin is drinking Vermouth. Berliners love to sip their weekend drinks in the club-like atmosphere of the Amano Bar at the stylish hotel of the same name. Here, Vermouth is served with ice and tonic and garnished with a twist of lemon or grapefruit. Bar Manager Martin Bauermann explains: «This drink – also called Vertonic – is very light and refreshing. It’s not too sticky and not too tart, it just has a hint of bitterness.»

Warm nights in the woods around the campfire: the summer drink created by Arnd Heissen, Bar Manager of Fragrances, reminds him of the summer nights of his youth. They inspired him to call his favourite summer cocktail Nuit Étoilée, echoing the perfume of the same name created by Annick Goutal. He mixes his cocktail using Tanqueray Gin No. 10, Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire, fresh lemon juice, Moroccan mint and pine cone bud syrup. The Fragrances bar at the Ritz-Carlton in Berlin opened in April 2015 with a very special concept. Exclusive fragrances from brands such as Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent act as the inspiration for creating their unique drinks.

8 | Gin with local herbs Gin was the big hit of last summer, and in 2015 it remains hugely popular with Berliners. In the bar of the upscale Das Stue hotel in Berlin, raspberry- flavoured gin is combined with seasonal local herbs, egg white and a dash of soda. The Stue Bar is famous for serving classic cocktails from the Twenties and Thirties, and at weekends live music transports guests back to the Berlin atmosphere of the past.

10 | Munich raises a glass to Greece In Munich’s trendy bar The Flushing Meadows in the hotel of the same name, head barman Robin Bruderhofer raises a glass to Greece. His special drink for 2015 is based on the aroma of Mastiha, a Greek liqueur seasoned with resin from the mastic tree. He serves it in a wine glass, pouring homemade pink grapefruit lemonade and Müller-Thurgau white wine from Germany’s Palatinate region over ice, then garnishing it with mint and grapefruit chips. «This is our tart, fruity terrace drink for toasting the economic crisis and political dialogue», he says with a grin.

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DID YOU KNOW…? Roots The carrot originally came from Afghanistan, which is still home to the largest number of different varieties. It has been grown for thousands of years, but for a long time people only ate the leaves, chopping them up like its relative, parsley. It wasn’t until the Middle Ages that people also began eating its root. But carrots should be eaten in moderation, as over-consumption can turn your nose orange, along with the palms of the hands, soles of the feet and backs of the knees (though this is less obvious because of the higher number of sweat glands). If you eat huge numbers of carrots, you will find the whole of your body takes on a pronounced yellow tone. This is known as carotenodermia.

Christmas nuts The brazil nut tree has to be pollinated by a special type of bee. Then the nuts need fourteen months to ripen. So in every rainy season a small group of collectors gather in the Brazilian jungle to wait for the nuts to fall from the giant trees. Every year they harvest around 40,000 tonnes of nuts. The brazil nut also harbours a mystery that is still perplexing scientists after many years of research. They still have no answer to the «brazil nut problem» - why do the largest nuts in a box of muesli always rise to the top? It seems that as the muesli settles and touches the sides of the box, it forces the pieces in the middle to make way. And as large pieces are too chunky to gather against the sides again, they stay on top. This effect has more important but less familiar connotations, such as in drugs manufacturing, creating models of earthquake damage and the formation of asteroids.

Serve chilled The Fiji islands’ gift to the world’s drink culture is called kava and is known as «the anti-energy drink». Village life revolves around this drink, which is drunk every day after work, but only by men. The thick, grey-green liquid tastes like mud and has an anaesthetic effect on the tongue and lips, and also on the stomach, which can cause nausea in people who are not used to the drink. But fans of kava are prepared to put up with these side effects in order to enjoy its sedative effects, which it is said are similar to a high dose of liquid Diazepam (Valium).

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CHEERS, SANTÉ AND PROST: BEER, MAN’S BEST FRIEND!

A cold beer can be the perfect way to wind down after work. Beer has many fans all over the world, there is no shortage of beer tours and beer events to help them learn more about the brewer’s art. GetYourGuide

DRESDEN The state capital of Saxony can also be explored on the beer trail. Take a city tour with a difference and find out what Dresden has to do with beer, guided by the Good Soldier Schwejk or Otto the Master Brewer. The guides’ cheery, chatty manner will give you a different perspective of magical Dresden. And of course you’ll be fortified by beer tastings and a two-course meal.

It’s a little known fact, but Lithuania has its own independent beer tradition. The country currently has around 80 breweries, all producing their own varieties of beer. A three-hour pub tour around Vilnius allows visitors to sample a wide range of beers and learn more about the history of local brewing. It finishes in a small local brewery where the beer experts reveal some of the secrets of the brewer’s art.

VILNIUS COLOGNE Kölsch is the only language you can drink! On a brewery tour visitors can experience the authentic atmosphere, typical Cologne lifestyle and special mentality of the oldest city on the Rhine. Through informative and entertaining anecdotes, lovers of beer find out why Kölsch makes you «beautiful, clever, slim and healthy» and how it affects your love life.

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AMSTERDAM You don’t always have to walk. Give your feet a rest and take a one-hour beer tour around the Dutch capital – by e-bike. 20 litres of beer are there to refresh you while you travel around the city and its sights. Don’t worry, the driver won’t be drinking! The tour is perfect for company events and stag nights, and can be combined with other activities.

MUNICH How can we talk about beer without mentioning the Bavarian capital? München ist das reinste Mekka für Bierfreunde – nicht nur zu Oktoberfestzeiten. During an evening tour of Munich a tour guide introduces visitors to the world’s beer capital and shows them the favourite haunts of the locals. They learn more about the fascinating history of German brewing, including its historic beginnings, the huge monastery breweries of the Middle Ages, and the world-famous purity law, the Reinheitsgebot. Then it’s time to taste a range of beers and sample some local Bavarian dishes in one of the city’s best historic breweries. White sausage, roast pork with dumplings, and more … The package also includes a private tour of the Beer & Oktoberfest Museum.

PRAGUE The Czech Republic and beer are inextricably linked. The prize for the highest per-capita beer consumption in the world doesn’t go to the Germans, but to their eastern neighbours. So a beer tour is a must when you’re in Prague. A three-hour tour of the best microbreweries gives visitors an insight into the history of beer and the city’s long brewing tradition. Every brewery gives visitors a chance to sample their beers. The choice includes traditional light and dark beers and seasonal brews. The tour includes the Pivovarsky Dum, the rustic U Fleku pub and the U Medvidku beer hall.

PREVIEW VOLUME 2 The Emperor of the Tahitian pearl Robert Wan has brought the cultivation of Tahitian pearls to a whole new level, and is rightfully known as «the Emperor of the Tahitian pearl». His pearls range in colour from light grey to anthracite, with overtones of brown, blue, peacock green and aubergine. These extraordinarily beautiful pearls are worn by Tahitian men and women, young and old. His pearls are in demand with jewellers the world over. Our editor visited Wan’s pearl farms and learned more about the art of pearl cultivation.

A city with heart Avant-garde architecture and unusual buildings dominate the skyline of Canada’s business and financial capital. Toronto is also a leading light of the theatre and dance scene. «Think big, be creative»: The city’s iconic buildings include the National Ballet School, whose original historic building has now been enfolded in glass wings, and the world’s third-highest TV tower, the CN Tower. But nature certainly doesn’t allow itself to be overshadowed – right on Toronto’s doorstep, the Niagara River plummets over the famous Falls at a rate of 155 million litres per minute. Toronto is home to more than 100 different cultures, providing a colourful blend of ideas, traditions, passions, tastes, flavours and opinions.

The cowboy photographer Richard Prince became something of a superstar when he put together pieces of Marlboro advertisements to create his «Cowboys» series. But very few people know that this American artist owes a debt of gratitude to Dieter Blum, the German photographer who turned the myth of the American cowboy into advertising and art history. In 2007 his unique print «Rauchender Mann» (Smoking Man) became the most expensive photo ever to be sold at auction in Germany. Our editor talks to Blum about his fascination with cowboys and looks back at his 50-year career as a photographer. The large-grained textures and overblown colours of his photographs give them an almost cinematic look.

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