VOLUME 2 l SPRING 2016
EXTRACT
PROV EN A N C E PR E- OW N ED
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CONTENTS 70 20
TRAVEL
64 FRASER ISLAND Journey across the biggest sandbox in the world
70 THE BEGINNING OF MASS TOURISM Departure of the tourists
20 «COME DANCE WITH US …» A brief history of dance
73 ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT The Father of Modern Fieldwork
38 PRESTIGE PRESENTS … Imagery you can dance to
74 EXKLUSIVE YACHTCLUBS In the heart of the «Sport of Kings»
77 CELEBRITY HOTSPOTS IN AMERICA From Hollywood to the Hamptons
COVER STORY
CULTURE & ART
44 KIEFER SUTHERLAND Career Toppers
49 AGATHA CHRISTIE The Queen of Mystery
50 SPRING DIARY From African masks to Cowboy Poetry
78 INSIDER VIEW Amsterdam
44
52 THE SPIRIT OF AMERICA Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Crazy Horse Memorial
56 DIETER BLUM The photographer of the cowboys
62 GOYA Precision portraits
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M ANUFACTUR E DE H AU TE H OR LOGER IE
TONDA 1950 TOURBILLON
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CONTENTS
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
80 WATCHES & WONDERS Exciting news from the world of watchmaking
98 PETER HENLEIN The «Inventor» of the Portable Watch
99 THE PAST IS ALWAYS PRESENT Urban Jürgensen
102
102 MURDER & DESIRE Diamonds and their crimes
106 DRIVE STYLE 106 VERY BRITISH Morgan 110 IN THE FAST LANE Lewis Hamilton 112 INSIDE FERRARI DESIGN Prestige meets Ferrari 116 CONVERTIBLES The stuff that dreams are made of 120 PACIFIC CRUISING California Car season
120
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YEARS MANUFACTURER WARRANTY & ROAD ASSISTANCE
CONTENTS FASHION
145
128 FASHION ACCESSORIES Hats, gloves, handbags 132 FASHION CLASSICS The Panama Hat
BEAUTY
134 FORGOTTEN FASHION LEGEND Charles James
152
140 THE BIG TEN Ten beauty Classics 145 BEAUTY NEWS Spontaneous luxury, rose fragrances & perfume classics
136 SAVILE ROW Bespoke Tailoring 139 DID YOU KNOW …? New York Fashion Week, Jeans & ties
146 SIX SENSES From scented tassels to wine lovers 148 FACE GYM Beauty Training 152 ALOE VERA The Miracle Elixir from the Desert
128
LIVING
154
154 HENNING LARSEN The Master of Light 160 NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF DESIGN I Bath, Vase & TV 162 DESIGN CLASSIC Thonet No. 14 164 NEWS FROM THE WORLD OF DESIGN II Daybed & Lamp 165 THE ARCHITECT DUO Herzog & de Meuron 166 PRESTIGE PRESENTS … Europe’s Abandoned Places 174 GAETANO PESCE Designing a Difference 175 DID YOU KNOW …? Elevator, subway & desert sand
www.gellner.com
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CONTENTS
186 CULINARIUM 176 CHAMPAGNE Ennobled World Heritage 182 SPARKLING BEVERAGES Collectibles and Tsar 184 CULINARY CURIOSITIES Snake wine & Casu Marzu 186 MAKE IT NICE Daniel Humm 191 PURE PLEASURE Coffee
176
NEWS 97 100 105 109 131 135 151
THE GOLDEN MEAN SPLENDOUR OF THE SEAS WARMING ORNAMENT SPORTY ELEGANCE BLAZE OF COLOUR EVENING GLOW SPRING RADIANCE
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191 19 EDITORIAL 192 IMPRINT
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ESTEEMED READERS
W
e welcome you to our Spring Edition in which we delve into the history of dance. Dancing is a ritual, a custom, a performing art, an occupation, a sport, a form of therapy, a form of social interaction, or simply an expression of emotion. Briefly: Dancing has many functions in society, but it can also be just for fun. Why do bees dance? Who is the most beautiful dancing couple in film? Where did the Tango originate? And why does contemporary dance today disturb the audience? This and much more can be discovered when reading our cover story on this journey through dance. On the other hand, if you want to learn more about classic beauty or facial gymnastics, you should immerse yourself in our beauty section. Prestige has chosen for you ten beauty products that absolutely deserve to be called «classics».
Talking about classics, a real motor classic is the Morgan. This car lives the past, now. Its shape, the material and the family factory in Malvern stand for a sports car which has only a shrug left for sumptuous furnishings. And we also delve into the mysteries of the classics to be found on Savile Row, which doesn’t even measure 300 metres, although is called the «golden mile of tailoring», the home of the perfect bespoke suit. Even today, the Row is the epitome of high tailoring. So sit back and relax, while enjoying a glass of your favourite wine and immerse yourself in your exciting and informative Prestige reading.
Francesco J. Ciringione Verleger
Yvonne Beck Chefredaktorin
Bahnhofstrasse 33, T +41 (0)44 221 27 27 www.meister-zurich.ch
& ART
CULTURE
«Dancing is the poetry of the foot.» – John Dryden–
A BRIEF HISTORY OF DANCE
«COME
DANCE WITH US …» Dancing is a ritual, a custom, a performing art, an occupation, a sport, a form of therapy, a form of social interaction, or simply an expression of emotion. Briefly: Dancing has many functions in society, but it can also be just for fun. Yvonne Beck
T
he subject of «dancing» is divisive – men, so the stereotype goes, almost never want to dance, women, however, almost always do. In the world of birds, on the other hand, it is rather the males who dance to impress the females. Dance shows on TV prove how popular dancing is. Whether it’s «Stepping Out», «Got to Dance» or «Let’s Dance», dance shows record high ratings. But where does this phenomenon come from?
The luxurious way of life | 21
«No one can take from me what I have danced.» – Spanish proverb –
The ritual dance
Happiness & Therapy
Before people could write, they danced. Most people have the urge to move themselves. They love to jump, spin or stomp. The repetition, a structure, a certain rhythm turns this into a dance. Nowadays dancing should above all be fun. Rhythmic movements to music make you happy. This was not always so, as there were times when dance had primarily a ritual purpose. Even the belly dance, as a fertility dance, is rooted in ritual. Ritual dances point to energetic patterns, concentrating the forces or even moving the dancers to ecstasy (for example in Voodoo). In tribal cultures around the world ritual dances and / or trance dances are known and are in use to this day. Ethnologists suspect that the trance dance was present during the Palaeolithic era, the Old Stone Age. Today, it can still be observed in African tribes, Caribbean healers and indigenous peoples in the Americas – provided their homeland still remains – among other groups. Dance is a form of communication. Dancing as a group is something that connects people at a very deep, non-verbal level. Indian culture is known for their precisely recorded temple dances. On every continent there originated dance forms of each individual cultures, which due to their long existence are called traditional dances or folklore.
Dancing is a physical expression of joie de vivre. Dancing is an expression. Dancing is «singing with the body» rather than with the voice. Dancing is «making music with the body» rather than with an external instrument. For some dancing is life. Dance can help. Dance can heal. Dance may even be worship. The motivations are varied. They can have cultic, ritual, sacred or ceremonial characters, for example they may be performed to contact gods or to ward off demons. We know fertility, funerary and sacrificial dances, courting dances to find the right partner (even Helmut Kohl said, «I dance to become closer to the woman».) or playful combat training in the form of Polynesian men’s dances. Dance, however, can also be used in therapy. Experienced dance educators and therapists know from experience how beneficial dancing can be for a child’s development. With competent educational or therapeutic guidance, improvements in both physical skills, and openness, self-confidence and experimentation can be observed among children when they dance over an extended period.
Ballet The Sun King Louis XIV, – known as a dance fanatic – founded the first ballet school in Paris (Académie de Danse Royal) with the court composer, Lully. The most popular ballet piece in the world is Swan Lake. Tchaikovsky’s famous work was first performed in 1877. It flopped, however. Only a revised version from 1895 brought the success that it maintains to this very day. In Italian «una ballerina» simply means a dancer. In German a «ballerina», means a solo dancer, who dances the lead in the ballet repertoire. A «Prima Ballerina» is usually the most senior, most experienced and best of ballerinas in a company. «Prima ballerina assoluta» was a title of honour, which was awarded only twice during the Tsar’s ballet. Recently, the British «Royal Ballet» appointed Margot Fonteyn as «prima ballerina assoluta».
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How the dance is performed also depends on the occasion, the place and the social strata to which the dance belongs. On a village dance floor it will be rougher than at a court ball, and at a carnival it will be freer than the five-o-clock tea dance in the Kursaal. On the African plains it is dustier and wilder than on the dance floor of the ballroom. They all have only one thing in common – dance is communication and expresses a certain mood. Whether ballet, Spanish flamenco, youthful breakdancing or Irish Riverdance – «Dancing is the best thing that feet can do!»
Š Damir Yusupov
CULTURE & ART
THE ELITE FORGE
BOLSCHOI BALLET ACADEMY
It is one of the oldest and largest dance schools in the world and is considered one of the most prestigious and famous ballet academies, which in its 200 years of movement and rich history, has produced stars and prima ballerina assolutas. On 28 March 1776, when Empress Catherine the Great granted the Russian prince Ussurow the privilege to organize balls, performances and masquerades and to create a theatre group, no one knew that it would give rise to the Olympus of ballet. Helena Ugrenovic
F
inancial difficulties as a result of its central location in Moscow and the constant changing of hands brought the Petrovka theatre to a halt over and over again. It finally opened on 30 December 1780. In 1806 it received the status of «Imperial Theater» after the first theatre building burnt down in the autumn of 1805 which meant that the artists had to perform on private stages until a new wooden theatre was built in 1808. But such a status did not bestow the theatre a long life, as Moscow was set ablaze shortly after the arrival of Napoleon’s troops.
Eight Columns and Apollo In the years 1820–1825 a new building was constructed in the former Russian capital of St. Petersburg, which was even larger and more magnificent than the Bolshoi Theatre and was the best theatre in Europe after the Scala in Milan. At the top of the pointed roof, which is supported by eight columns, is Apollo, God of art, enthroned in his chariot. On the stage, dramas were mainly performed before the operas and ballets which featured more and more frequently the repertoires and international composers such as Rossini or Verdi who presented their works.
The luxurious way of life | 25
© Damir Yusupov
CULTURE & ART
Today’s Bolshoi Theatre, opened in 1776.
The Imperial Bolshoi Petrovsky Theatre opened its doors again in 1825 and continued the Russian ballet tradition even stronger than the Mariinsky Ballet of St. Petersburg, staging the two most important operas in Russian culture: «A Life for the Tsar» (1842) and «Ruslan and Lyudmila» (1846 by Mikhail Glinka, both a crowd-pleaser, and he became the undisputed favourite who managed to oust the formerly dominant Italian opera from Russian theatres. Even today in the Bolshoi Theatre, each season traditionally begins with a Glinka opera.
Danced and Lived Dramas Another fire broke out in 1853 and completely destroyed the theatre building together with its decorations, rare musical instruments, costumes and the national library. It was rebuilt by the Russian- Italian architect Alberto Cavos, who decorated it with ornate chandeliers, red velvet and gold. 2300 spectators can fit into the six-story auditorium which has outstanding acoustics and at the time it was the largest theatre in the world. The real breakthrough for the Bolshoi Theatre occurred in the 1870s with Russian opera after Russian opera being staged. Ballet then boasted elite dancers who were to go down in history in the heyday of the early 20th century.
Centuries to be Remembered Maya Plisetskaya and Ekaterina Maximova, wehre honoured with the highest awards of all, prima ballerina assoluta, Vladimir Vasiliev, Vladimir Malakhov, Natalia Osipova and Nikolay Tsiskaraidze are among the world-famous elite dancers who performed at the ballet Olympus. Ethereal beings who glide with an airy graceful ease over the ground and melt into the magical atmosphere. People tend to forget the hours of hard work, iron discipline, bleeding feet and the eternal competition for the lead role. In 2011 the Bolshoi Theatre reopened after six years of renovation. Now, one of the world’s best stages shines with a new splendour.
➥ The Bolshoi Theatre has more than 1800 seats. ➥ There are currently around 900 actors, dancers, singers and musicians working here. The stars are usually on tour throughout the world, and are therefore rarely encountered in Moscow. ➥ The image of the Bolshoi Theatre was minted on a silver coin and printed on the 100-ruble note. ➥ On 17th January 2013 the director Sergei Filin was attacked with sulfuric acid and lost his eyesight.
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THE DREAM DANCE PARTNERSHIP GINGER & FRED Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire were the perfect symbiosis. Like strawberries and cream. They were the best couple on the Hollywood screen. They sprinkled their magic across ten films – and are today icons of dance film. They met for the first time in 1933 for the film «Flying Down to Rio». Rogers had been cast at the last moment. The studio bosses quickly discovered that with these two they had hit the mother lode. Astaire was a born dancer and Rogers coaxed the best out of him. Kathrin Hepburn once said: «He gives her class, she gives him sex appeal». Both were also very successful as solo artists. Astaire was an icon of entertainment. Ginger Rogers was a gifted actress. For the role of «Kitty Foyle» she even won an Oscar in 1941. At that time, she was Hollywood’s highest paid star. However, the audience loved them best when they were together, and was sure that they must be a couple offscreen too. They appeared onscreen together in a total of ten films, of which «Top Hat» was the best. As in most of the films, the plot is rather inconsequential and unimportant: Fred wins Ginger over by dancing with her. Two of the best dance scenes in film history can be found in this film: «Cheek to cheek» – because of her dress trimmed with feathers, Ginger Rogers earned the nickname «Feathers» – and «Isn’t this a lovely day (to be caught in the rain)?» – Fred and Ginger dancing during a thunderstorm. The pair was so successful as a dance duo that their ten musical films contributed to the survival of the small, financially weak RKO Studios in the 1930s. With each new film, Rogers and Astaire developed the playful, artistic, partly breakneck dance scenes together with a choreographer at a first meeting. And today they are regarded as one of the most successful couples, who slipped apparently effortlessly across the stage.
«Do it big, do it right and do it with style.» – Fred Astaire –
5 QUOTES «Either the camera will dance, or I will.» – Fred Astaire –
«Dance is a telegram to the earth with the request for a waiver of gravity.» – Fred Astaire –
«My mother told me that I was dancing before I was born. She could feel my toes tapping wildly inside her for months.» – Ginger Rogers – «I worked until my feet were bleeding.» – Ginger Rogers –
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CULTURE & ART
CONTEMPORARY DANCE
IDEAS OF MOVEMENT In the 1960s western culture experienced various influences. Young people were inspired by new music from England. In France, Michel Foucault and Jaques Derrida established a new way of thinking, Andy Warhol was exhibiting his pop art and in Dusseldorf Joseph Beuys explained art to a dead hare.
A
nd just like thinkers, painters and musicians, more and more dancers were rejecting traditional forms of their art and were finding newer, more suitable means of expression. When Yvonne Rainer wrote her «No-Manifesto» in 1965, it showed how radically she rejected the old style of dance. It expressed a fundamental departure from the old forms and the classical understanding of dance, which the Judson Church Theatre Group in New York had already tried for years with Trisha Brown, Steve Praxton, Douglas Dunn and David Gordon. Among other things, Rainer discarded elegance and virtuosity, symbolism and shine, hero and anti- hero and with them the story, the beautiful appearance, solid forms and camps, and finally the audience.
David Renner
Be Part of the Dance Even today contemporary dance can unsettle the viewer. Rather than being entertained or being taught something, you are challenged and left alone to your own interpretation. It is a new role that the dance expects of you. You are no longer an observer of the performance but rather a resonating body. In this self-understanding, contemporary dance links the ideas and experiments of the 60s, which democratised art as happenings and performances, conceptual art and Fluxus. The viewer is a fundamental part of the performance. Instead of witnessing a plot, virtuous in execution, you can experience a narrative backbone, banal everyday scenes that alienate more and more into an ongoing repetition, a panopticon of moods or even short, narrative sequences.
Sasha Waltz: Matsukaze.
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© Bernd Uhlig
CULTURE & ART
© Phillipe Weissbrodt
«Dance is a universal language; an ambassador of a peaceful world, for equality, tolerance and compassion.» – Sasha Waltz –
Compagnie Phillipe Saire: Utopia mia.
© Sebastian Bolesch
CULTURE & ART
Sasha Waltz: Orfeo.
The viewer is forced to engage with their experiences and opinions. They have to fill in the plot themselves, to question their daily experiences, to sympathise or simply associate with them. Contemporary dance takes place through its effect on viewers.
From Portrayal to Discourse Abandoning the narrative is the expression of changing interests. It’s no longer about performing a story, but rather to raise questions, to question, without trying to provide answers. As Helmut Ploebst said: «We organize no movement in time and space on stage. It is more a game, a pingpong relationship between stage and auditorium. We change things, look at the audience, and then question or criticize what they perceive. This is the main factor in our choreographic performances.» With the new idea of the audience, the dance floor becomes a place for discourse and not of its performance. As a spectator, you have to contribute to the discourse.
Changing Steps For dancers and choreographers this new interest results in an uninterrupted quest for form and expression, in which they engage with their body and biography. With the deliberate avoidance of coding and solid forms each piece leads to a new exploration of one’s own body and its movements. The dance steps and choreography develop over a long process of improvisation, concept and theme.
In this way, every staging becomes its own brand of contemporary dance, with its own forms and rules. The very essence of contemporary dance is its continual change.
Moving Bodies A new project is an ongoing battle against the degradation of found forms. Through improvisation, contact improvisation and deconstruction of movement, to name just a few methods, one tries to find a new language for this topic. By forgoing solid forms, code and a unified narrative, a natural body has been an issue since the 1990s. Given these problems, the contemporary dance theories turn to the body, which is capable of making the voiceless lump of flesh and blood speak. With the ideas and exercises of Moshé Feldenkrais, F. M. Alexander and Joseph Pilates, the dancers not only protect their bodies from the crusting? of their movements and their musculoskeletal systems but are also looking to develop a kind of natural language of movement. Nowadays, the body and its individual expression have even more importance than in the early days of contemporary dance. For example, for Meg Stuart a central question is the reintegration of movement in current social contexts. Therefore, it is no surprise that the choreography of contemporary dance emancipates from dance itself. For the audience a performance is always an adventure, which they themselves must embark on. A piece is therefore good when it moves without jumping sequences and without the need for virtuosity.
Star Dancers and Choreographers There are many good and dedicated dancers, choreographers and dance companies. Prominent and successful ones include Jérôme Bel, Boris Charmatz, the Compagnie Phillipe Saire, Meg Stuart and Sascha Walz. They do guest appearances and might be performing near you soon.
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«Tango Argentino is a sad thought that can be danced.» – Enrique Santos Discépolo –
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CULTURE & ART
THE TANGO FROM SOUTH AMERICA
MELANCHOLY
AND
PASSION
T
Tango is music and dance, life and passion, the game between man and woman, tango is the soul of southern America.
he Tango is a child of two mothers born in the sister cities of Buenos Aires and Montevideo. In the bellies of the ports, whose water the people of Buenos Aires still refer to as a river and in Montevideo a sea.
The Sound of the Castaways In the harbour’s taverns, on the southern edge of the new continent, which promised a new beginning and opportunity, are those who remained behind. Here, the ships loaded the wealth of the former colonies, wheat and beef, which was torn from the country and its people. The ships steered a few goods from the old world together with its people, who flocked to the cities and the expanses of Pampas looking for a new start. In the taverns sit those, whose new beginning is now over. In a haze of liquor and beer they sway to the sounds of their fathers like waves breaking on the shore. Spain’s Flamenco, the song of the Pampas and the Habenera, the rhythms of the former slaves who had nothing left to lose but are still lost themselves. The sounds mingle like the haze in the two-four beat of the tango. Just like the disillusionment, the new sound from the ports works its way into the suburbs, the magnificent buildings of past rulers, the streets, the tenements, into its taverns and brothels and roars like a fire.
David Renner
The First Tango Pandemic Gangs of teenagers dance to the tango in the suburbs like the gauchos who fight with their knives. The prostitutes in brothels dance between food and sexual intercourse with the rich sons of high society. Since women are scarce, men dance together to the sound of guitar and flute to learn the new steps. But it was only in 1870 when the bandoneon arrived at the Río de la Plata that the Tango found its voice – a pair of bellows gave the end of the world a character. The tango is slow, melancholic and deep and finds its rhythm in four eighth measures. On one of the boats which transported goods to Europe, the new dance arrived at Marseille and conquered Paris like syphilis. It was as if the fashion capital had been waiting for a new dance and – unlike in South America – it was the high society who surrendered themselves to the tango. In 1912 in the salons around the Place de l’Étoile, in the cafes, theatres and cabarets, Paris swayed to the four eight beat, discussed dance steps and forms, desperately sought teachers and infected London, New York and Berlin. It covered 390 dance steps which became a fanciful yet sensual and watered down standard dance. The tango even influenced the fashion. People wore orange, the corset was ditched to allow for better mobility and people put vertical feathers in their hats. «Argentina» was shocked: the
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CULTURE & ART
dance, music and language of the pimps, prostitutes and criminals – in other words, the poor – became a symbol of their homeland and their new role model, since Paris determined fashion.
The Golden Age And this is how Argentina and Uruguay involuntarily inherited their national treasure. The tango migrated to the cafes and clubs in the city centre as a result of changing social structures and Paris’ influence. People took the national bastard and turned it into their own authentic child. By 1923 the Prince of Wales had already been received at the Casa Rosa to the sounds of the tango and in the tango salons the tango orchestra played at the dances. Fairly good bandoneon players soon earned more than a high-level employee and the Avenida Corrientes buzzed like a beehive. This was the golden age of tango. There were milongas every day in every neighbourhood. Each neighbourhood had its own club, own dialect and own way of dancing. Between 1935 and the military coup in 1955, more or less the whole of Buenos Aires was dancing. They continuously refined the dance, the music and the sons. Even when it had lost its wicked reputation, it remained a sensual and impulsive dance, but not as rough as in the early days. The man would lead the way on the dance floor. His steps would give the woman some room for free play, which required attention and devotion. It was a game of desire. But only a game. The hips do not touch. The most famous dancer was El Chafaz, José Ovidio Bianquet who danced from the most vicious establishments all the way to the highest Argentine society and on to Europe. Apart from his choreographies he was famous for his elegant steps and figures, which took him to the Metropolitan Opera. With the advent of Rock n Roll and the military coup in 1955 which overthrew protection measures for indigenous music, the golden age of tango abruptly came to an end.
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The Renaissance of Passion As Argentina was freed from the burden of the dictatorship, people looked around and started to dance. It was the young people who discovered the tango for themselves and revived the dance – albeit incorrectly. New moves were shown to others and Buenos Aires slowly began to sway to the beat again. The political situation became stable and the old dancers from the golden age ventured out again and started teaching their dance. Nelly and Miguel Balmaceda were the most influential teachers in the ’80s and went on to resurrect the tango. They danced complicated sequences of steps and revived the techniques of the ’40s and ’50s. Many stage dancers learned from Antonio Todaro, which sparked the tango craze in the ’90s with shows such as «Tango por dos» and «Tangopassión». This was followed by «Estilo Milonguero», a tango without complicated shapes, a sensual dance, which was danced in private. With its newly discovered cultural asset, the tango, Buenos Aires has become a pilgrimage site for Tangueros. And today, in many of the cafés, the stars of yesterday still perform.
CULTURE & ART
The passionate game comes alive in the show: Mariano Balois Pardo & Silvana Allevi.
«Tango is a vertical expression of a horizontal desire»
– George Bernhard Shaw –
The bandoneon is the soul of the tango: Tango Passion on 142 keys.
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CULTURE & ART
MOUNT RUSHMORE NATIONAL MEMORIAL It is hard to imagine attempting to reflect the spirit of an entire nation in a single sculpture, but that was the task of Gutzon Borglum (1867–1941), when he began his work on the Mount Rushmore National Memorial, America's Shrine of Democracy, in the year 1927. Yvonne Beck
«I am a storyteller in stone.»
– Korcazak Ziolkowski –
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CULTURE & ART
T
oday Borglum’s massive granite sculpture sits majestically above the forests of the Black Hills – forever a symbol of rich American history, rugged determination and lasting achievement. The heads of four presidents carved in stone, proudly protrude over the landscape. They are like silent stone watchmen guarding over the land. George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roose velt and Abraham Lincoln. The monument pays tribute to 150 years of American history – birth, growth, preservation and development of the United States.
and bad weather extended the duration of the project from four to fourteen years. And because the mountain was sometimes reluctant to cooperate, Borglum had to perform time-consuming changes. Despite all his efforts, the sculptor did not live to see the completion of his dream. On the 6th March 1941 he died during surgery. His son Lincoln continued the project. But the project was finally brought to a halt when the USA entered the Second World War. Funding simply stopped. Hence, what we can see today is how Gutzon Borglum’s project was left.
The Stone Faces of the Presidents
The Gigantic Scale of the Original Idea
Gutzon Borglum was a second-generation Ameri can. From an early age he was filled with love for the USA. His father, a Mormon Missionary from Denmark, had to wait ten years for his departure to America. Gutzon Borglum was extraordinary: he loved everything about America and was one of the most famous sculptors of his time. He also had an enormous desire for recognition. He wanted to secure a place in history and therefore wanted to create something extraordinary and unique. In 1923 he came up with the plans for his most ambitious project so far, a 30 metre relief carved into the rock of Stone Mountain in Georgia. It was supposed to show three figures of the Confederate States of America. He even joined the Ku Klux Klan to get financial support. But after finishing the portrait of General Robert E. Lee, Borglum quarrelled with the organizers. He destroyed his entire work and angrily left the KKK and the project. Fortunately, the historian Dorian Robinson from South Dakota became aware of Borghum. He had a vision of a huge stone sculpture on a mountain slope in the Black Hills. In 1924 they spent several weeks searching for a suitable mountain for the project. When Robinson and Borglum saw Mount Rushmore, they knew that was their mountain.
The sculptor actually had bigger plans for the pro ject. Much bigger. The upper bodies of each presi dent were left unfinished. There is also a 25-meter tunnel behind the presidents’ heads, which was going to serve as the entrance to Borglum’s «Hall of Memories» – a kind of museum which would recount the first 150 years of American history.
The preparation, planning and financing took three years. On the 4th October 1927 the 60-year-old sculptor finally got to work. He had 400 helpers on the project. Gradually, they transformed the granite hillside into a work of art. Financing difficulties
But despite the sculptor’s plans not being fully realised, each visitor to Mount Rushmore is overwhelmed by the scale of the sculpture. The heads of the presidents, which are approximately 20 metres high, can be viewed from several viewing platforms around the monument. If you want to get a little closer, you are better off taking the «President Trail» – a hiking trail that takes visitors to the foot of the mountain.
TIPS The «Avenue of Flags» with its 56 flags of the American states and territories leads to the largest viewing platform. During the summer months you can visit Borglum’s studio, where the models used by the artist are on display. Each night in the summer, the presidents are illuminated during a ceremony in the amphitheatre.
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HORSE MEMORIAL
CRAZY
IN HONOUR OF THE NATIVE «My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to AMERICAN know that the red man has great heroes, too.» This was written by Lakota Chief «Standing Bear» when he requested that the sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski (1908 –1982) carve the «Crazy Horse» memorial. Yvonne Beck
CULTURE & ART
M
ount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial, which is still in progress, are only 27 kilometres away from each other and are two of the world’s modern wonders. Each one represents a stone illustration of different aspects of American history.
The World’s Largest Mountain Sculpture The face of Crazy Horse, which was completed in 1998, is now the fifth granite face in the Black Hills. When completed, the monument will stand 172 metres tall and 195 metres long. The four presidents at Mount Rushmore combined are about as big as Crazy Horse’s head. Work is currently taking place on the horse’s head, which is situated at the centre of the sculpture at a height of 64 metres (22 storeys). The outstretched arm will be as long as a football pitch. 4000 people could fit into it. Crazy Horse is planned to be the largest sculpture in the world. Drilling and blasting on the colossal mountain began in 1948. 748 wooden steps were used to reach the top of the mountain. On some days, Z iolkowski had to travel up and down the stairs ten times to fire up the compressor at the foot of the mountain. He began work alone and with $174 starting capital. He worked on the project for 36 years until he died at the age of 78.
Some Indians are critical of the project. They complain that the Black Hills are being desecrated and point out that Crazy Horse never allowed himself to be photographed because he never wanted to be depicted. Crazy Horse never sat for artists, and whenever someone asked to photograph him, he would say: «My friend, why should you wish to shorten my life by taking from me my shadow?» But the majority of people admire the tireless efforts of the Ziolkowski family. Nobody knows when the monument will be finished. Too many factors play a role such as weather and financing. However, it is estimated that it will not be completed for another 100 years. But as Z iolkowski already said: «It does not matter when exactly the monument is completed. The main thing is that we carry on working on it and it will come together piece by piece». One thing is certain: The Crazy Horse Memorial is already a proud symbol for all Native Americans in the land of the Black Hills. And one day, the dream of «Crazy Horse» will come true.
Continuing a Dream Since work began, approximately 10 million tonnes of granite have been blasted out of the rock face. Despite this, only the face is completed. Ziolkowski died in 1982, and his work was supported by his wife Ruth (who died in May 2014) and continued by seven of his ten children. Each family member has their own task. Using the sculptor’s models, they continue to build his vision. They share Z iolkowski’s philosophy that Crazy Horse should not be a government project, but should rather be a non-profit, humanitarian work, which is financed mainly by entry fees.
«My land is where my dead lie buried.» – Crazy Horse –
TIPS You can visit the sculptor’s home and workshop, which is filled with art and antiques. The mountain is illuminated every evening for half an hour after dark.
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TRAVEL
JOURNEY ACROSS THE BIGGEST SANDBOX IN THE WORLD
ISLAND Kilometres of white sandy beaches, hundreds of tropical islands, colourful coral gardens and a bright blue sea – Queensland has plenty to offer. The «Sunshine State» follows through on what its name promises. In short, it is the Australian holiday paradise.
«
Yvonne Beck
Warm, friendly and above all big» – the Queenslanders praise their home. And it’s no wonder: Queensland is home to the largest coral reef and the largest sand island in the world. The only tropical rainforests of Australia are in Queensland, and inland people are attracted by the rugged beauty of the almost deserted outback. Queensland is not only a vacation paradise – it’s Australia in miniature! «Miniature» should not be taken too literally though, because with its 1.73 million square kilometres, the State covers 22.5 per cent of Australia. Nearly five times as big as Germany, it takes up the entire northeast route of the fifth continent. Moreover, Queensland also boasts
the largest variety of habitats in Australia. More than 400 national parks and other protected areas preserve the natural heritage of the state – including five of the eleven major World Heritage Areas in Australia. Even the famous Pacific Coast between Brisbane and Cairns holds some titbits – especially Australia’s «Nature Coast». It offers more than 200 kilometres of beaches and has a total of 47 state and national parks and two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. One of these World Heritage listed regions is Fraser Island – 123 kilometres in length, it is the largest sand island in the world and the only place where all the vegetation grows on sand – also it’s a rainforest!
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TRAVEL
Climate Queensland’s climate is subtropical, or tropical in the north. The water temperature at the Great Barrier Reef hovers between 25–30 degrees and is ideal for diving and snorkelling. In principle, Queensland – especially in the south and centre – is an all-seasons destination. The peak season is considered to be the period from April to November.
Getting There
A flight from Europe to Australia will take 19 –25 hours – depending on the route and stopovers. The two main international airports in Queensland are Brisbane and Cairns. Singapore Airlines flies daily via Singapore to Brisbane and also goes 3 times a week to Cairns. The flight lasts 19 to 21 hours. www.singaporeair.de
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Lake McKenzie
TRAVEL
The rainforest and its inhabitants Rainforests cover the entire east coast of Australia in a patchwork pattern down to Tasmania. Hundreds of different species of trees and striking tree ferns and palms thrive there. Ferns, mosses and lichens give the forest a mystical atmosphere. Sometimes you have the feeling that you are in the «Jurassic Park» and at every corner you expect a group of raptors. However, it is safe to wander through the woods, even alone, but you should not leave the landscaped paths, because in the undergrowth there lurk quite a few poisonous nettle plants and spiders. We only made acquaintance with the «Wait-a-While» vine. Contact with this hook-covered plant is almost unavoidable. Sooner or later, everyone will get hooked on this climber. The name Wait-a-While already indicates the prescription against violations by this plant. One has to wait and release the hooks carefully out of clothes before going on. Otherwise it can quite possibly rip the fabric, You should also keep your distance from the metre-high Nettle tree, the «Stinging Tree», which is located at the edges of jungles. With its heart-shaped leaves, it is reminiscent of a harmless lime, but on these leaves sit numerous stinging hairs which inject a liquid into the skin when touched. At worst, the injury can be fatal, but pain and inflammation are observed in all cases for weeks. Otherwise, however, a trip into the rainforest is an impressive experience into a magical world.
Laughing Hans and the silent giant The wreck of the Maheno is perfect for a selfie stop.
Nothing but sand? Travelling to Fraser Island for the first time, one expects the sand island to be a kind of «Sahara in the water», with many dunes and a comparatively shallow sandbar. So: nothing but sand … That sounds a little monotonous, however the habitat diversity of the island is enormous because the majority of the up to 240 metre high dunes are overgrown. Yes, Fraser Island is surprising with its lush greenery. And if you fly over the island, the fascinating rainforest is especially striking in the north. The island’s interior is a breathtaking natural paradise with wild and romantic streams. Dense mangrove forests alternate with mysterious swamps and colourful wildflowers. Fraser Island reaches up to 244 metres high, with windswept dunes and endless forests with ferns and huge trees. The island used to be a welcome source of timber at the water-repellent Satinay-pine was, among others, used in the construction of the Suez Canal. Since 1991, no trees have been felled, and the forests are becoming an ever more interesting jungle. Most of the island is covered by grasses, shrubs and eucalyptus trees. Prehistoric palms and giant kauri pines form the island rainforest.
The east coast of Fraser Iceland is formed by more than 100 kilometres of sandy beach, where there are more than 50 shipwrecks. And like little blue beads, more than 200 freshwater lakes sparkle across the island. The three most popular lakes are Lake Wabby, Lake McKenzie and Lake Garawongera. Lake McKenzie is particularly attractive due to its extremely clean, clear and soft fresh water, its ideal location and the brilliant white sand. It gives an incomparable «Raffaello-South Sea Feeling», surrounded by 1000-year-old trees and the call of kookaburras. The Kookaburra is an unmistakable, characteristic bird of Australia. It belongs to the family of kingfishers and is the by far the largest representative. Its loud, rattling laughter is so unmistakeable that it has earned the German name ’Laughing Hans’. They live in the open forests, parks and gardens of Queensland. When more animals compete with each other on the area border, it makes for an acoustic spectacle that will remain in one’s memory. However, they are also known as cheeky thieves. It can happen that they steal the meat from unwary barbecuers directly from the grill. Another notorious resident of Fraser Island is the Dingo. Warning labels and codes of conduct can be seen everywhere, because his poor reputation precedes the Dingo. In a pack they even challenge red kangaroos, and sometimes they even attack people. Fraser Island is one of the last refuges of the dingo, the original form of the Australian wild dog – in other places he has long been supplanted by civilisation. Along the sandy highways at 75 Miles Beach on Fraser Island, however, you can still spot him still relatively often. But even without dingoes, a ride on the «sandiest highway in the world» is a unique and exciting experience. And you can enjoy one of the most impressive animal experiences in Queensland from August to October. At this time, on a regular basis, humpback and sperm whales can be seen in Hervey Bay. Between 4000 and 5000 of these impressive animals make a stopover in the shallow waters of Platypus
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TRAVEL
The silent death Even when everywhere offers gorgeous water to swim, caution is necessary here! Bathing in the sea can be perilous. There is a threat from frequent treacherous currents, the waters are very fast and deep, and many sharks lurk off the coast of Australia. In addition, this is the home of one of the most dangerous animals in Australia: the box jellyfish. It floats through the coastal waters of Australia with its football-sized body, trailing about 60 thin tentacles of five meters in length. On the tentacles sit millions of stinging cells that inject the victim with one of the most dangerous poisons known. A crab dies usually within seconds, a person after 5 minutes depending on the intensity of the contact, but always accompanied by excruciating pain. A fully grown box jellyfish has enough venom to kill 60 people! While an antidote is available, often it is not administered fast enough to help. Although vinegar prevents further discharge of nematocysts, it does not act against the poison itself. During much of the winter (May to October) swimming is absolutely safe, however. Otherwise, you should, be very careful!
At 1840 km², Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island.
Bay on their trail along the east coast. Hervey Bay is rightly called the «Whale Watching Capital of Australia». Every year, humpback whales from the Antarctic Ocean travel north towards the subtropical waters off the coast of Queensland to mate. Guests can visit the animals at this time on whale watching tours (www.tasmanventure.com.au). The silent giants approach the boats, coming within metres, because they are by nature very curious. And if one of the huge sea creatures rises out of the water right in front of your nose, it will take the breath away from even the most cynical amongst us, it’s so impressive. Most recently, visitors have been able to experience humpbacks from a completely new perspective in Queensland. The diving school «Sunreef» (www.sunreef.com.au) in Mooloolaba on the Sunshine Coast, as well as the company «Hervey Bay Whale Watch» (www.herveybaywhalewatch.com.au) on the Fraser Coast, offer for the first time in Australia the opportunity to swim with the ocean giants.
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Fraser Island is the only place where all of the vegetation grows on sand – even the rainforest!
trip in order to be scrapped in Osaka. She was pulled by a smaller ship. To reduce the flow resistance, they had expanded her screw and rudder, which meant that they could not manoeuvre the ship themselves. On the 7th July, both ships came upon a storm which tore the connecting cord and stranded Maheno on Fraser Island. Attempts to rescue the stranded ship failed. In the early years, the Maheno was used by the inhabitants of the island for, among other things, weddings and celebrations. Later it served the Royal Australian Air Force as a target object. Today the upper decks of the ship are still visible. And the old lady rusts slowly in front of your eyes.
Humpback and sperm whales are frequently seen in Hervey Bay.
Travelling to «Paradise» Car Ferries to the island run from Inskip Point (12 kilometres north of Rainbow Beach), Hervey Bay’s Urangan Harbour and the nearby Mary River Heads. It’s easiest to experience the diversity of the island with an organised tour. A network of trails covers the island, but if you would rather explore on your own, it requires a four-wheel vehicle, a good map, two to three days and some 4WD-experience. There are fascinating sand dunes, shipwrecks, and colourful sand formations of Rainbow Gorge, The Pinnacles or The Cathedrals, not to mention the «Indian Heads» – Fraser’s most beautiful vantage point. Even the river Eli Creek and the Maheno wreck invite you to stop for a photo op. Here in 1935, on the east coast of the island, the former luxury liner SS Maheno ran aground during a cyclone. Between 1905 and 1935, the SS Maheno was used as a passenger ship between New Zealand and Australia. It could carry 420 passengers. On 3rd July 1935 the former luxury liner set out on her last
In the language of Aborigines, Fraser Island is «K’gari», which means something like «paradise». You couldn’t really find a more appropriate name for the largest sand island in the world. Only a shipwreck in the 19th Century led to the renaming of the island. In 1836, a ship under Captain James Fraser of Sydney set out for Singapore. At the Great Barrier Reef the ship’s hull was damaged and the ship sank. The surviving castaways, including Captain Fraser and his wife Eliza, rowed back towards Brisbane. After about a month the life boats landed on the sand island. Over the several months waiting to be rescued from the island, some of the shipwrecked, including Captain Fraser, died – but Eliza Fraser survived thanks to the help of the natives. She was later rescued and told the story of their shipwreck as a fairground attraction in London’s Hyde Park. She padded out the story with ever more riotous details and was eventually admitted to a mental hospital. The island then got its present name from Captain Fraser, although «paradise» appears more appropriate.
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TRAVEL
EXCLUSIVE
YACHT CLUBS Y
New York, Hamburg, Monaco, Palma, London: Among the yacht clubs around the world there are some that stand out because of their history, sporting activities and their social scenes.
acht Clubs were founded with the goal of establishing common grounds for sailing. Since sailing was once the «sport of kings», many yacht clubs have preserved their royal structures and thus possess a certain exclusivity. If you want to become a guest or a member, you have to abide by certain rules. Only then can you gain an insight into the sporting and social networks that bind these clubs. The Royal Nautical Club Palma de Mallorca has been transformed from the smart-set hangout for actors such as Errol Flynn (hero of many pirate films) to one of the world’s most prominent sailing clubs – under the active patronage of the Spanish royal family who are sailing enthusiasts themselves. Influential, long-standing figures such as Aga Khan, the Roosevelt family and members of the British royal family were and still are involved in the social and sporting success of the yacht clubs. For these reasons, the yacht clubs have developed and continue to preserve a certain etiquette. And from these once eccentric old gentleman’s circles, companies with modern business structures have emerged, which are willing and able to organise major sporting events.
Lilly Steffen
The club library with its mahogany shelves and glass cabinets has a very British feel to it and is well frequented. It contains the most unique collection of over 14,000 books on yachting. Many of the interiors refer to the history of the America’s Cup. The heart of the club is the model room which contains 1700 full and half model racing yachts. They were once needed to determine race rankings. These models form a unique collection of the history of yacht building. The collection of all of the full models includes all yachts that have competed in the America’s Cup. This collection culminates with the model of the victorious Swiss Alinghi of 2007. With the advent of multi-hull era, the collection has been closed. Floating billboards have no place in the sanctuary of sailing. The NYYC considers itself as a custodian of the maritime tradition.
The Yachting «Cathedral» – New York Yacht Club Built in the style of the belle époque, the clubhouse on 37 West 44th Street (just around the corner from the fashionable Fifth Avenue) has been the residence of the legendary New York Yacht Club since 1901. Its front is reminiscent of the stern of an old galleon and its Grill Room behind the facade corresponds to a liner’s wardroom. Here you can sit down with a Dry Martini and New York steak in a circular restaurant reminiscent of the days of Lord Nelson.
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Founded in 1844, the New York Yacht Club (NYYC) is probably the most prominent sailing club in the world. The admissions committee votes only after careful examination of a person’s sailing CV. Values such as tradition, sportsmanship, seamanship and etiquette are held especially high among its 3000 members. Foremost, however, is always fun
«Sailing is a rather expensive sport because the sports equipment is expensive. Therefore, many of the big clubs are home to very wealthy people. It is also true that all clubs put a great deal of effort into training young talent.»
– Svante Domizlaff –
New York Yacht Club
followed by promoting yachting and the sailing regatta. The NYYC is therefore not a society club, but a real yacht club – with a noble ambience and an exceptional size.
Under the protection of the Royal Family – Royal Thames Yacht Club Where other yacht clubs have framed photos of their commodores on their walls, the Royal Thames Yacht Club has oil paintings of its dignitaries. The London club will lay claim to being the longest- running yacht club in the world. After the accession of King William IV, the Duke of Cumberland, the brother of King George III, was awarded his honorary title as a result of founding «Cumberland Fleet» in 1775. And like all traditional British yacht clubs the «Royal Thames», as it is known, is under the protection of the royal family. Royal Thames Yacht Club
The club maintains a close relationship with the Royal Navy, is in a befitting location and offers its guests a traditional British club atmosphere. The smell of gin and Darjeeling tea, the collection of awe-inspiring historical paintings, maritime antiques and a serving of Royal dust have influenced its
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Real Club Nautico de Palma
style and have made British clubs renowned around the world. Despite the distance from the water, the Royal Thames is much more than a social club. Its interests cover all areas of sailing. It has a dedicated club life with lectures on historical maritime issues.
a yachtsman and behave accordingly, you will most likely be allowed in. The yacht club currently has 2000 members. It only accepts new members when vacancies open up – be it through resignation or death. No wonder that there is a long waiting list. Nevertheless, the RCNP is not just a club for socialising. It is home to many Olympic champions as well as successful maxi yacht sailors such as Thomas Bscher and Albert Roemmers.
Around 900 Berths – Real Club Nautico de Palma Whoever is into sporty sailing in the Mediterranean will know about the bay of Palma de Mallorca and the important race weeks like the Trofeo Princesa Sofia, the Palmavela, the Trofeo Ciutat de Palma, the Copa del Rey and, let’s not forget, the Super yacht Cup. The focus of all these sporting and social events is the Royal Yacht Club, the Real Club Nautico de Palma (RCNP), which has grown under the active patronage of the Spanish royal family who are sailing enthusiasts. In sporting terms: it is one of the world’s most important sailing clubs. The RCNP was founded on the 28th August 1948. It lies at the centre of Palma in a privileged location within the bay. The RCNP is known to be a regular port of call for ships sailing in the waters of the Balearic Islands. During major events, the club is largely accessible to the general public. For the rest of the year, entrance is controlled. But if you present yourself as
MEMBERS ONLY
Exclusive Yacht Clubs Svante Domizlaff Delius Klasing Verlag
The most exclusive yacht clubs are for members only. Sailing fan Svante Domizlaff really wanted to get into one. «Sailing is a rather expensive sport because the sports equipment is expensive. Therefore, many of the big clubs are home to very wealthy people. It is also true that all clubs put a great deal of effort into training young talent.» According to Svante Domizlaff in an interview with the magazine Spiegel. In his book he describes ten incredibly exclusive yacht clubs, which include the Royal Yacht Squadron and the New York Yacht Club.
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CELEBRITY HOTSPOTS IN AMERICA THE TOP
FROM HOLLYWOOD TO THE HAMPTONS
There is no country in the world where you meet more celebrities than in the land of opportunity. Whether at a sports event or during a shopping spree – kitted out with autograph book and selfie stick, the hunt for the stars is on.
Hollywood, Los Angeles California Celebrity spotting in Hollywood is a thriving business. There are countless bus tours through the Hollywood Hills. With a guide you are driven directly to the doorsteps of celebrities such as pop star Britney Spears, film director Quentin Tarantino or «Friends» star Courteney Cox and will learn need-to-know insider tips. The Sunset Strip and Hollywood Boulevard are other prime locations for seeing stars. You should also keep your eyes open during the flight. It is quite possible that there is already a star in the cabin.
Long Island New York Long Island is considered a playground for the rich and famous and is home to countless celebrities, such as actress Sarah Jessica Parker, singer Jennifer Lopez and comedian Jerry Seinfeld. The Hamptons is a group of villages on the eastern end of Long Island. In the towns of Southampton and East Hampton the chances of meeting a star having dinner at one of the many luxury restaurants or shopping on Main Street are high.
Las Vegas Nevada In recent years, celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Paris Hilton have been frequently spotted at pool parties in one of the hotels in this gambling mecca. Don’t worry if your name is not on the guest list – the city has plenty of clubs that are often frequented by the stars. One of the most popular is the LAX nightclub at the Luxor Hotel. With a little luck you might even end up meeting the co-owner, Christina Aguilera.
Miami Florida
A-list stars such as ex-footballer David Beckham, singer Rihanna and Hollywood actor Zac Efron are among the most famous fans of the NBA team Miami Heat and sometimes even steal the limelight from the players on the court. Combine the sports event with some celebrity-hunting in Miami Beach, where even more stars stay, for example, in the exclusive members-only Soho Beach House.
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
&
WATCHES
Standing still means going backwards. As a result, the watch industry has continued to showcase exciting innovations, such as those seen by the Richemont Group brands during the exclusive Watches and Wonders in Hong Kong this September. Because their competitors are just as creative, they cannot afford to miss out under any circumstances. Gisbert L. Brunner
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ROLEX Rolex Datejust: Noblesse à Discretion The profound internal and external value of the Rolex «Oyster Perpetual Lady- Datejust 28» is subtle. This is for women who love luxury but show it in a very discrete manner. The 28 mm case and bracelet are made of platinum which is extremely discrete to the eye. The dial features nine diamonds and the IX numeral itself contains eight diamonds. Ceramic inserts increase the bracelet’s scratch-resistance. This officially certified chronometer contains an automatic movement, a «Siloxi» silicon balance and is waterproof up to a pressure of ten bar.
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Watch with a Rope: Hublot Big Bang Zermatt People first climbed the Matterhorn 150 years ago. Hublot used this anniversary to release 150 limited edition watches in both tungsten or rose gold cases. The chronograph, named after Zermatt, the village at the foot of the mountain, has a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel. The double caseback displays the in-house automatic HUB 4100 calibre. Between the two rear sapphire crystals, there are three centimetres of mountaineering rope, which was allegedly found 4320 meters above sea level on the north-eastern edge of the Matterhorn. Hence, it is engraved with the message «Original rope from the Matterhorn. 4320 metres above sea level». The sporty cases are waterproof up to a pressure of ten bar.
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HUBLOT
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
BAUME & MERCIER
W&W
Baume & Mercier: Ringing Clifton In 2012 Baume & Mercier launched the first editions from their «Clifton» range. Its style, which stresses nostalgia, has proven to be a success. A successor to the 2013 «Clifton» Tourbillon watchstrap, the 2015 limited edition comes with a watch housing. They are unique in that they have a five-minute repeater striking mechanism. An «all-or-nothing safety mechanism» prevents the subdial from striking incorrectly, thus never telling the incorrect time. The modular design watch mechanism consists of a skeletonised hand wound Eta 6498 calibre with a frequency of 2.5 Hertz and a Dubois Dépraz repeater. The opulent gold case measures 50 millimetres. Baume & Mercier have produced 30 individually numbered editions.
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL
FERDINAND BERTHOUD
Glashütte Original: The Sixties are Back An era which emphasised style has been revived in the «Sixties Iconic Collection». This special collection of five colourful timepieces brings back memories of the 1960s. Back then the VEB Glashütter watch companies (GUB) had the «Spezimatic» with a self-winding rotor. The designers were inspired by these sought-after collectors’ editions. Today, the 39-millimetre steel case comes with a modern automatic 39-52 calibre and a power reserve of 40 hours. Customers are spoilt for choice with the dial colours: Sixties Red, Sixties Gold, Sixties Aqua, Sixties Brown and Sixties Grey.
Ferdinand Berthoud: The Return of a Grand Name The watchmaker Ferdinand Berthoud lived in the 18th century. Accurate pocket watches, clocks and marine chronometers originated from his work. As a member of the Chopard Group, the new «Chronometrié Ferdinand Berthoud» has twice recently released 50 limited edition «Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1» chronometers in white gold titanium and rose gold ceramic cases. Through side viewing windows and a sapphire crystal back you can see the exclusive hand wound FB T.FC calibre. The historical control elements include a chainscrew system for constant driving force. The backwards rotating tourbillon in a titanium mounting is reminiscent of Berthoud’s contemporary, Abraham- Louis Breguet. Technical refinements also include the truncated cone-power reserve indicator and the centre second hand with a patented direct drive.
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WATCHES & JEWELLERY
MONTBLANC
Only One Push-Button: IWC «Portofino» Monopusher Chronograph At IWC, the 45 mm «Portofino» – models 515 103 (White Gold) and 515 104 (rose gold) have flourished after extensive optimization for series production. The chronograph is controlled by a single push-button, which is integrated into the winding and time-setting crown. The mechanism which receives its power supply by winding the crown, features a stopwatch that can measure time for up to 60 minutes. This model has a hand wound 59360 calibre, eight days power reserve, four Hertz frequency, stop-seconds function, date and power reserve dials. IWC manufactures their watches in Schaffenhausen.
IWC
W&W
Retro Look Chronograph: Montblanc 1858 Montblanc has released its new 1858 collection as a tribute to the founders of the original watch manufacturer Minerva. 100 limited editions of this chrono graph have been made. Each one has a 44 mm rose gold case and was inspired by watches made in the 1930s. Its winding crown controls the three functions: start, stop and zero setting. The classic manufacture MB M16.29 calibre consists of 252 carefully refined components. Gear train and horizontal clutch mechanics are a given. The classic elements also include the large screw balance, Breguet spring, 2.5 Hertz frequency and an elegant swan-neck fine adjustment for the back. Around the edge of the black dial with its distinctive luminescent numbers is a tachymeter for measuring speeds over a predefined distance of up to a kilometre.
W&W
W&W
PANERAI New Caliber: Panerai P.1000 Panerai has put forward another chronograph from its factory in Asia. This relatively small hand wound P.1000 calibre, which measures 26.8 mm in dia meter, is housed in a Radiomir 1940 case in either steel or pink gold. The chronograph, which consists of 152 components with a frequency of four Hertz, has a famous design with a minimal height adjustable balance bridge, two serially connected barrels, a three-day power reserve and the small seconds at «9». A further feature of the 3.85 mm P.1000 is a zero reset for synchronising the second hand with a time signal. When winding the crown, the movement stops and the small second hand moves to the vertical position. With a 42 mm case this watch can also be worn by women.
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WATCHES & JEWELLERY
GIRARD-PERREGAUX Girard-Perregaux 1966: Pure Retro Look Girard-Perregaux has released its Antoine de Saint-Exupéry model for its 1966 line, which is reminiscent of precisely that year. In his opinion, perfection was achieved not when nothing more could be added, but when nothing more could be taken away. This also applies to the latest 1966 model. Up to this point, the collection only consisted of precious metal cases. Now, the classic timepiece is available in stainless steel. The flat 40-millimeter shell has a sapphire crystal caseback. Behind it, the balance of the in-house automatic GP03300-0030 calibre with a power reserve of at least 46 hours, a central second hand and date aperture performs 28‚8000 vibrations an hour. It is water-resistant up to three bar.
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WATCHES & JEWELLERY
TAG HEUER Intelligently Connected: TAG Heuer Connected In a collaboration with the computer chip manufacturer Intel and the software giant Google, TAG Heuer returns with its brand new «Connected». At first glance, it appears that this is a classic titanium «Carrera» featuring an analogue time display. The various SmartWatch features only become apparent with an in-depth analysis of the integrated microcomputer. After turning the watch on, several dials are available. Further dials, for example those created by Cara Delevingne and David Guetta, can be downloaded via Wi-Fi. There are also smartphone independent timing functions such as a stopwatch, timer and alarm. Sensor-controlled applications are used for sleep control, speed measurement and the activity tracker «Google Fit». Many more apps are available in Google’s Play Store. Bluetooth is required to communicate with sensors, speakers or smartphones. TAG Heuer is also compatible with Apple and Microsoft operating systems.
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A. Lange & Söhne: Honey Gold Anniversary In 2015 Ferdinand Adolph Lange would have celebrated his 200th birthday. This was worthy of an A. Lange & Söhne limited edition anniversary watch. To mark the occasion of the 200th anniversary of the 1815 F. A. Lange, a total of 200 copies were made. Staying true to the company’s philosophy since 1994, the 40 mm case is made from precious metals. The base of the special gold alloy is 18-carat white gold – no palladium, nickel or silver. The honey- glow is caused by the addition of copper, zinc and silicon. A secret thermal process results in a Vickers hardness of 320, 140 more than normal gold. Inside the precious case, the hand wound calibre L051.1 ticks. Features: 55-hour power reserve, balance wheel with variable inertia, three Hertz frequency and a drop-in anchor setting with an elegant swan-neck fine adjustment.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
W&W
W&W
CARTIER Cartier and the Mysterious Clé In 1913 Cartier debuted their «Pendule Mystérieuse». Its hands appeared to float in a vacuum. In 2013 Cartier put this fascinating feature into a watch. It mysteriously told the time without appearing to be powered. The trick: two interlocked sapphire glass discs placed on top of each other. It has a hand wound 9981MC calibre and a power reserve of 48 hours. The model calmly handled a shock and drop test of 500-g from a height of one metre. But would the «Clé de Cartier» be spared the same inglorious fate of one of the mysterious clocks which broke, as the Duchess of Westminster describes in her memoirs, during a night-time marital row when it was hurled against the bedroom wall?
H. MOSER & CIE. H. Moser & Cie. Shows its Sporty Side A new, sporty era has dawned upon A. Moser & Cie. with their new «Pioneer» collection. The elegant red gold and titanium case with a screw-down crown is waterproof up to pressures of twelve bar. The family-run company has produced a chronograph which transmits the time with a 4.7 millimetre automatic HMC 230 calibre. The in-house oscillation system performs 21,600 vibrations an hour. A rotor carries energy to the mainspring in both rotation directions. After full winding, this chronograph has a power reserve of at least three days.
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© Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
MURDER AND
LUST
DIAMONDS AND THEIR CRIMES
Diamonds capture light and sparkle in our eyes but their charm arouses desire, which sometimes leads to crime. David Renner
aris is the site of the biggest diamond heist in history. During the turmoil of the French Revolution, the French Crown Jewels collection was on show in the Garde-Meuble on the Place de la Concorde. On the night of the 17th November 1792, resourceful thieves broke in and stole the jewels on display. Cadet Guillot, the head of the gang, escaped with the Crown jewels which contained the «Hope» diamond. The diamond only emerged from the shadows after the amnesty. The blue stone, the name given to the jewel by its future owner, is said to have been cursed. However, not all of its owners were unlucky. Well, a dancer was gunned down by her admirer, other relatives died prematurely or perished on the Titanic – but not all.
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WATCHES & JEWELLERY
Lies and Deceit The «Orlov» diamond, which currently lies at the centre of the Russian sceptre, was the result of a cunning temple robbery. A French deserter who found refuge in Madras in Srirangam, eventually heard of the wealth of the nearby temple. In its innermost grounds was a sacred Vishnu statue whose eyes were two huge diamonds. The temple is situated on an island and is surrounded by seven walls, but it is not open to Christians. So the Frenchman pretended to be a Hindu convert and earned the trust of the guards over the following years. On one stormy night, he snuck into the holiest part of the temple and stole one of the sacred God’s diamonds, but then lost his nerve. In the pouring rain, he scaled the seven walls and plunged into the water. He retreated through the jungle and finally arrived at an English settlement.
Trickery and Deceit However, the most elegant robbery was the robbery of the Koh-i-Noor, the most famous stone in
the world. Its history dates back to Ala-ed-Din Khalji, the ruler of Delhi in the 13th century and continues to today where it is part of the British Crown Jewels. It has changed owners numerous times over the centuries, often resulting in bloody throne disputes and conquests. Nadir Shah acquired the priceless stone after the Battle of Karnal in 1738. After moving to Delhi, he learned from a concubine that the inferior Mohamed Shah hid the precious «light of the mountain» in his turban. Nadir held a banquet with wine and music and offered Mohamed Shah confraternity in front of all of the guests. It is a sign of deep connection, sincerity and infinite friendship, which is completed with the exchange of turbans. Mohamed Shah had no choice but to reciprocate the gesture of friendship and Nadir later removed the stone from the meter-long cloth. Today, the Koh-i-noor sits in the English Crown.
Greed and Poison The same Nadir Shah had a large collection of diamonds and after his death, a simple Afghan soldier came into possession of them. He moved to Bassohra where the Armenian merchant Grigori Safras wanted to purchase the gem. Safras wanted to meet at night in the suburbs but the soldier found the idea a bit fishy and moved on to Bagdhad. He sold the stone to a Jewish merchant without knowing that Safras had followed him. Down a narrow alley the Armenian cornered the soldier and learned the name of the buyer. Safras offered the new owner twice the price, but he refused. But Safras wanted
© T & Co
© Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution
The art of diamond cutting is hard. In the New World, Tiffany was the address to go to for the finishing touch.
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WATCHES & JEWELLERY
The Hope Diamond, they say, brings its owners misfortune.
© Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution
Evalyn Walsh McLean was the last private owner of the Hope Diamond. She lost three of her children, her ex-husband went to the lunatic asylum and died prematurely.
the stone so much, so he later confided in his two brothers. The Jewish merchant had to die and with him, the soldier in order to leave no trace. The corpses ended up in the Tigris but there was a dispute over the spoils. Once again, Safras showed no mercy and his brothers ended up in the river too after having their food poisoned. With the precious stone all to himself, Safras continued on to Europe, where he sold it to Count Grigory Orlov.
Blown Away Disputes over ownership can also take place in the most civilised way before a court. In South Africa a litigation occurred between Lilienfeld and DMMA. Both parties claimed that they had discovered the stone and therefore wanted it for themselves. The person who had actually found it, a Griqua named Swartboy was abducted by both parties in order to convince the court. Swartboy actually came off quite well. The «Regent» as it is known today, was found in Hyderabad by a slave. He believed that this was the ticket to his freedom and so cut a deep wound in his leg in order to conceal the stone in his flesh. Despite the valuable wound he managed to escape out to sea and confided in an English captain. The Englishman agreed to let the slave on board for half of the profit. But on deck the captain was taken over by greed and ended up murdering the optimistic slave and throwing his body overboard. The heartless captain later sold the stone but his conscience got the best of him and he hanged himself a few days later.
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Cautiousness is the Key When Charles II, Duke of Brunswick, fled to Paris after been driven out by a marauding mob, he took his diamonds with him. His passion for his jewels led him to build a palace in Paris, which was more for the protection of his stones than it was for his own comfort. The Duke slept in front of the safe, which had four loaded pistols inside that would shoot any intruder, with twelve loaded revolvers around him behind a door, which was secured with a secret locking mechanism. He thought it best to protect the diamonds himself. And a look at history shows that he was not far wrong.
WHERE BRUTE FORCE PREVAILS … An unsuccessful robbery on the 7th November 2000 would have been the largest heist in history. The «Millennium Star» which was displayed in the «Millennium Dome» was the target of seven single-minded crooks. Shortly after it opened, they managed to break in with an excavator and proceeded to pound the bulletproof glass of the display case with nail guns and sledge hammers. However, the police had been on to them for a while and the criminals never made it onto their getaway boat on the Thames.
Ornament WARMING
I
This spring is enlivened by colourful trinkets w ith f loral desig ns. The playful masterpieces not only bring light into the darkness but offer a breath of spring with their vital auras. The woman of the world dispels the harsh cold of everyday life with scattered brilliance.
I BULGARI II PASQUALE BRUNI III HARRY WINSTON IV TIFFANY & CO. V GRAFF VI BUCHERER
BY LAURA
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DRIVE STYLE All Morgans are handmade, and the bodies are made of ash wood.
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VERY BRITISH A Morgan lives in the past. Its shape, the material and the family factory in Malvern stand for a sports car which has only a shrug left for sumptuous furnishings.
T
David Renner |
Morgan Motor Company Limited
he Morgan Motor Company has been around since 1909 and has manu factured the car with the longest production run in the world, the Morgan 4/4. The interior is lined with the finest leather. The fixtures have a soothing function and the seat heating makes it warm and toasty. After starting the engine almost reverently, the roar of the engine passes through your body and reminds you of the brute force of its speed. Each Morgan is a throwback to the elegance of the 30s, of gasoline, burnt rubber and its own past.
A Gust of Sentimentality The first success story was in 1909. A young engineer at the time, Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan, or HFM for short, created the 3 Wheeler in his workshop. The vehicle became a two-seater in 1910 – and was the first and only vehicle to be displayed in the window of Harrods. Until the ’30s, cyclocars were popular and widespread. The Morgans had started to break records, win races and gain popularity. The original workshop quickly became too small. As a result, the company outsourced part of its production to a premises on Picksleigh road which they acquired in 1913 and which is still in use today. The two World Wars interrupted production but the small company managed to reposition themselves both times on the market.
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DRIVE STYLE
Methuselah on Four Wheels In 1936, HFM released the Morgan 4/4, a car with four wheels and cylinders, a classic automobile with a steel chassis on an ash frame which had already come 13th place in the 1937 Le Mans with a 1098 c. c. Coventry Climax engine. In the decades after the second World War, Morgan achieved racing success and in 1962 Christopher Lawrence and Richard Sheppard-Baron won the Le Mans 2-Litre Class (GT cars 1601–2000 cm³) in a Plus Four Super Sports, whose development Lawrence was involved with. After the war, Peter Morgan, HFM’s son, who was himself a passionate race car driver, excellent engineer and designer, accelerated the development of the cars. He took over the firm in 1959 after his father’s death. With the Morgan Plus Eight, Maurice Owen developed the most famous classic car, which is powered by a Rover V8 engine which impressed Mick Jaegger among others. For PM, growth, profit maximisation and comfort were
foreign words for drivers. A Morgan was more comfortable than a motorcycle and it only had a limited circle of enthusiasts. It was built on a personal dealer network and thus the company survived the crisis of the 70’s amazingly well. The employees did well and remained in Malvern. Since 2013, A ndrew Duncan, a friend of Peter Morgan, who died in 2003, has been in charge of the business.
Reminiscence About Modern Technology Nowadays, the factory on Pickersleigh road produces seven different, carefully crafted cars. And since 2009, it has been producing another threewheeler. The Methuselah is the 4/4, which with its octogenarian design impresses as an anachronism with the latest technology. The other three classics have lost just as little of their elegance. Neither the Plus 4, whose fenders and tires are wider than than the 4/4’s and which has a more powerful engine, nor the Roadster, whose Ford 3.7 Cyclone V6 engine guarantees a no-frills sports car. As a compromise between sport and city cars, the Plus 8 with its BMW 4799CC V8 is still an incorruptible statement of extravagance. Launched in 2000, the Morgan Aero 8 featured at the Geneva Motor Show. Christopher Lawrence was involved in its deve lopment. The company’s classic design has been re-interpreted and the Aero 8 is a modern as flagship of the British sports car and its history.
The interiors are custom made.
The Aero 8 gives design a new guise.
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«WHERE BRANDS & COMMUNITY BECOME ONE» A SUPERLATIVE WORLD NOVELTY GOES ONLINE! REGISTER FREE AND BECOME A PART OF IT.
PRESENTS
INSIDE FERRARI DESIGN
T
he Ferrari California T embodies elegance, versatility and exclusivity – properties which have characterised each California model since the 1950s properties for which Prestige magazine has stood for almost ten years. Thus, the Ferrari design team has set to work to design a Prestige Ferrari.
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DRIVE STYLE
Prestige meets Ferrari. The magazine is always on hand, so that designs will hold true to the layout and contents of the magazine.
In the Ferrari creative centre.
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DRIVE STYLE
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DRIVE STYLE
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1 | Inspiration source 275 GTB. 2 | The separate materials are coordinated. 3 | Interiors: simple & elegant. 4 | Exclusivity & sportiness combined in the body.
EDITION FOR PRESTIGE
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FASHION «The coherence of these small important details has transformed style into a science and fashion expertise into a question of power.» – Ulf Poschardt –
RIE Accessories play an enormous part in fashion and true fashionistas will carefully select the right one for each style. Yvonne Beck
You are not a lady without your hat» was the successful milliner’s slogan. It was therefore understandable why women would keep their hats on when in company or the theatre. And in the 50s, handbags also had to match the colour and style of your gloves and footwear. The ultimate was a Hermès handbag with a leather strap clasp. The American actress Grace Kelly used to wear one and made the «Kelly Bag» the epitome of highest distinction. The High Society showed up with travel bags and other fine leather goods from Gucci or Louis Vuitton. For women who could not afford such exclusive items, bags made of imitation leather or crocheted bags made of bast with metal brackets and clasps were fashionable. In the USA, the first transparent plastic bags caused a sensation. The bags were very extravagant. They were produced by famous brands such as Llewellyn and Rialto and came in various shapes and were made of hardened coloured plastic – often combined with metal. Women also wore gloves in summer that were white or nylon. Evening gloves were made of the finest glacé leather and the longer they
were, the shorter the sleeves, while a mink stole warmed their bare shoulders. The shoes in fashion, pumps with round toes and thick block heels were replaced in 1955 / 56 by the stiletto heel, which made walking seem much more delicate. Haute couture demanded extravagant footwear: Charles Jourdan and Roger Vivier, who worked for the House of Dior, delivered it. By contrast, athletic young girls demonstrated their independence by wearing flat ballerinas. This was complimented with a small neckerchief.
The only constant in the world of fashion is constant change. Although there are always new styles and trends, over the years the accessory has transformed from a purely functional object into an aesthetic form of expression. Particular emphasis is placed on the four major accessories: shoe, hat, bag and jewellery. Hence, a woman’s dream partner is not called Harry or Tom, but handbag and / or shoes. The handbag in particular appeals to the female sex. Even in the Stone Age, women wore small leather bags for collecting edibles, while the
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Beautiful Sparkle
men swung their clubs. However, handbags only became a true fashion accessory around the year 1790. In the 18th century, pompadours or reticules were in fashion. A reticule was a bag sewn mostly from silk without a solid base which could be closed with two cords, which then served as a handle or shoulder strap. The small bag was for ladies of high society to store small everyday objects that were necessary to have at all times, such as a handkerchief and smelling salts or powders. About 50 years later, the metal frame was «invented», which meant the handbag significantly differed from its pouch-shaped predecessors and gained a greater practical and fashionable significance. The first durable handbags with handles, which could be taken when travelling, were made of leather. They looked more like a small suitcases and had latches. By the end of the 19th century, the handbag had finally become a fashion accessory for women.
❦ Did you know …? – Women spend 76 days of their lives searching for things in their purses. – Margaret Thatcher used to snap her purse shut in order to intimidate opponents. She described her bag as the «only safe place in Downing Street». – Italians are the biggest «bag fetishists». On average, Italian women own between 20 and 60 bags.
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But it was not only the handbag that triumphantly entered the Mount Olympus of fashion accessories. Costume jewellery also showed up sparkling at its side. A sparkling necklace, a glittering gold ring, a diamond-studded bracelet – whoever has all of that has to be filthy rich, right? No! Because the beautiful appearance of jewellery can often be deceptive! Thank God for costume jewellery! Because costume jewellery can look so incredibly convincing that only experts can distinguish it from real gems. The history of fashion jewellery began with the invention of the rhinestone by George Friedrich Strass. The Alsatian goldsmith devoted his life to studying gemstone imitations. By adding bismuth and thallium he improved the way imitations sparkled. He enhanced their colour by adding metallic salts to them. By lining them in metal foil he considerably increased the gems’ luminosity. As a result of his success, he was given the title of «King’s Jeweller». In 1730 he invented «diamonds» made of glass, which became popular and sought after all around the world. This was a no brainer, seeing as they were so much cheaper than real diamonds yet sparkled just as beautiful in the candlelight. But jewellery makers did not only develop a substitute for real diamonds. They also discovered a gold imitation, which consists of a mixture of zinc and copper. The pioneer of costume jewellery was none other than Coco Chanel. They adorned their models with meter-long faux pearl necklaces. Every woman should be able to afford jewellery with their own money! To date, costume jewellery is more than just cheap knock-offs! Costume jewellery has its own variety and can act on current fashions even quicker! That makes it very popular in the fashion world!
VII
Blaze OF COLOUR The jungle of the metropolis will be colourful! A little piece of paradise relaxes the outfit and brings to mind the tropics. Hand-painted fabrics, colored crocodile leather and feathered earrings enhance every glance. Less patterned accessories shine in daylight like the BY LAURA azure Mediterranean skies.
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I PRADA II FABRIC FRONTLINE III MIU MIU IV NAVYBOOT V PARMIGIANI FLEURIER VI LOUIS VUITTON VII BULGARI VIII HERMĂˆS
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FASHION
BESPOKE TAILORING IN
SAVILE
ROW
Savile Row, the «golden mile of tailoring», home of the perfect tailored suit, is not even 300 metres long. To this day, the Row is the epitome of couture, whose Palladian façade was transformed with the influx of tailors in the first half of the 19th century. David Renner Christopher Simon Sykes
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«
Bespoke» is a promise, where your measurements are taken, where you choose your cloth and decide on a cut. It is the promise to return again and again, to make alterations little by little. It is the promise of quality; that masters are at work sewing each stitch and each seam by hand. Masters of trousers, of jackets, of buttons. Since 2004 savilerowbespoke has been the label for this promise on Savile Row, which continues to honour this tradition.
From Street to Fashion Tradition is deeply rooted in English fashion. In 1846 Henry Poole was the first tailor to move into the Row. However, it was the home of English fashion
FASHION
even earlier. Until he fled to France in 1816, Beau Brummel, the first dandy, was a guest of Lord George Cavendish at number 1 Savile Row. Brummell, whose taste in fashion was keenly observed by all of London, dressed conspicuously inconspicuously. His minimalistic, masculine elegance is the godfather of English fashion’s identity. More tailors moved into the Row and transformed the Palladian buildings to suit their needs. And as the façade opened to fashion, fashion on Savile Row opened itself up to new forms. The bowler hat was created by James Lock & Co in 1850 for William Coke; it was supposed to protect his gamekeepers from falling pheasants and poachers. The tuxedo was originally tailored in 1860 as a dinner jacket for Edward, Prince of Wales, and later Edward VII. James Potter of Tuxedo Park ordered one and wore it to the Tuxedo Park Club. Savile Row tailors never forget. Be it their own history or their clientele, which reads like a who’s who of history, or even old invoices. This is how a hat for Oscar Wilde, which he received in 1895, was finally paid for 100 years after his death.
On the Row, there is a master for everything. Training takes between 3 and 5 years.
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FASHION
Bold Colours, Perfect Design However, tradition does not restrict itself to the classic, muted style of understatement anymore. In 1969, Edward Sexton along with Tommy Nutter opened «Nutters of Savile Row» at number 35a. Together they tailored colourful, flamboyant suits which reflected the spirit of the times. The brash colours, sweeping lapels, bell-bottomed trousers and eccentric shapes delighted not only Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr and Mick Jagger but also Rupert Murdock and Kerry Pecker. The two tailors at Nutters presented themselves as expressively and confidently as their garments, with an open display from Simon Doonan situated behind a large pane of glass. More and more middle-class names find themselves amongst the classic clientele of aristocrats in their order books.
of the three to purchase a shop on Savile Row. With a budget of £10,000 and a shop that was as small as a fitting room, he sold ready-to-wear suits, ties and overalls. As a designer and not a tailor, he caused concern on the street, although as we have seen, he was very successful. Shortly after, London became a metropolis for trendy fashion with Savile Row as its prime address. Richard James now has the largest shop on the Row and has devoted himself to savilerowbespoke. Nowadays, fashion designers face new challenges. The tailors are fiercely defending the character of their street. In a joint effort they prevented an Abercrombie & Fitch children’s store from opening at number 3 Savile Row in 2012. Even though ready-made fashion is being sold, they do not want any fashion chains amongst their ranks. In addition, rents are also increasing on the Row and with them, concern about the future. In order to promote themselves on the international market, tailors have been taking part in exhibitions and organising fashion shows since 2007. Since 2006, Ozwald Boateng has had his own TV-show in which he champions the London suit. The Row is well dressed for the future.
«New Bespoke Movement» After fashion’s first wake-up-call, it took until the mid-90s for Timothy Everest and Ozwald Boateng (who both learned the art of tailoring at Nutter) and Richard James to launch the «New Bespoke Movement». They wanted to combine craftsmanship with modern design on Savile Row and not simply retreat into their shops. James was the first
SAVILE ROW BESPOKE The label «savilerowbespoke» is dedicated to the tradition of bespoke. The 16 members, who have their businesses on or around the Row, have to comply with the high tailoring standards. A suit must therefore be produced with at least 50 hours of manual work, the pattern must be developed individually by a master tailor, the business must employ an apprentice at all times, there must be a fabric expert on the business premises, and so on and so forth. That such a suit is expensive is obvious.
After the measurements are taken, the cutting patterns are worked out.
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DID YOU KNOW …?
New York Fashion Week The Tie The tie was invented by the Croatian hussars and was named accordingly, à la croates. The scarf, which was looped around the neck, appealed to both men and women alike and complemented the colourful costumes worn under Louis XIII. During the French Revolution, the colour of a person’s tie was an indicator of their political views; white signalled nobility whereas more colourful ties were worn by revolutionaries. The Saint Hilaire textbook for ties from 1827 mentions 32 different styles of knot. Today there are as many as 85 knots.
The «New York Fashion Week» takes place every February and September. It is part of the «Big Four» fashion weeks, along with London, Paris and Milan. It started in 1943 as «Press Week» for American fashion and was held in the Pierre and Plaza hotels. It was covered by Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar who were incredibly impressed with it. Until then, American fashion had only received minor recognition and stood in the shadows of French designers. But as France was occupied by Germany, French models were inaccessible to the rest of the world. As a result, US fashion started to triumph.
Jeans During the California Gold Rush, thousands of people turned to digging up earth in order to make their fortune. There was a clear need for durable clothing. The tailor Jacob David came up with the idea of reinforcing seams with rivets, but he had no money. He approached a merchant by the name of Levi Strauss and together they filed a patent application. The trousers were sewn from cloth from Nimes and wool from Genoa. «Serge de Nîmes» from «Gênes», or plain denim jeans.
Ready-to-Wear Fashion Ready-to-wear is the name given to clothing which is not tailored to fit individual customers. In contrast to haute couture, ready-to-wear clothing comes in standard sizes. As a result, it is much more affordable. However, unlike haute couture, it does mean that the garment loses its exclusivity.
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TEN BEAUTY CLASSICS
THE
There are some beauty products that are simply indispensable. Prestige has selected ten cosmetics that are absolutely worthy of being called ÂŤclassicsÂť. Steffi Hidber
BEAUTY
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1 | CRÈME DE LA MER Launch Year: 1995
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The story of how this product was created is almost legendary: When the astrophysicist Max Huber decided to treat his skin himself after suffering an accident in his laboratory, he did not know that the cream he created would go on to be regarded as one of the best – and most luxurious facial treatments in the world. The heart of this rich cream, which is always bottled by hand, is the so-called «Miracle Broth». Its key ingredient is fermented sea kelp. It took more than 6000 experiments to perfect the process which resulted in a «visible transformation» of the skin’s appearance. Good marketing and consistent placement in the luxury market has also added to the number of loyal followers who swear by its velvety effects – and apply it almost religiously. For best results, warm it up for a few seconds between your fingertips until it becomes transparent and then apply it.
2 | LAURA MERCIER TINTED MOISTURIZER SPF 20 Launch Year: 1998 There won’t be many customers who, after reading for the tenth time in a magazine how amazing this tinted day care is, did not go and purchase one of the rather inconspicuous tubes for themselves. And the vast majority of newcomers will still remain faithful to it, even after the invention of BB Cream! Laura Mercier’s tinted moisturizer still regularly wins awards due to its unique light texture with just the right level of cover. It was developed by the French make-up artist after she wanted an embellished but not too pasty complexion for her models, which would leave their skin still visible. For years, this successful day care has also contained a sun protection factor of 20, making it the perfect everyday companion.
3 | GUERLAIN MÉTÉORITES Launch Year: 1987 «Glow» was one of the big buzzwords of Beauty World 2015. But the trick in having a radiant complexion has long been known … thanks to «Météorites» by Guerlain. At the end of the 80s the outdated beauty Label caused a sensation with the release of a completely new product: Delicately shimmering,
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loose powder in various flattering skin shades was compressed into small pellets, which were then mixed and applied with a thick, soft brush. It gave skin complexion a whole new glow. The unique packaging which came in a collectible tin and was re-designed each year, made Météorites a perennial favourite of the beauty world, which has experienced another boom as a result of the «strobing» craze.
4 | KIEHL’S CRÈME DE CORPS Launch Year: 1970 For more than 40 years, the ultra-rich body lotion «Crème de Corps» has been one of the absolute best-selling products of the New York pharmacy brand Kiehl’s. Although loyal fans of the traditional company were concerned about the much more commercial orientation of the brand following its sale to L’Oréal (in 2000), it has remained remarkably faithful despite tremendous growth: Simple skincare products with the best ingredients from science and nature. Beta carotene gives the cream its typical yellowish colour, but the luxurious, almost, «buttery» feel comes from an exclusive cocktail of various vegetable oils – including cocoa and shea butter, sesame, olive and avocado oil, which quite rightly justifies the high price. Despite this, fans are constantly buying the half-litre versions which comes in a pump bottle.
5 | YSL TOUCHE ECLAT Launch Year: 1992 The concealer for covering blemishes and shadows: These have been around for ages. But what
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Yves Saint Laurent did in 1992 was tantamount to a quantum leap in terms of make-up – because this little pen with its fresh fillable brush was the first highlighter of its kind, which could do much more than just conceal dark circles. Interestingly enough, a woman who is just as famous was responsible for this coup: Terry de Gunzberg, one of the most famous make-up artists in France who now has her own beauty label that has been working closely with Yves Saint Laurent for 15 years, was responsible for the «revolutionary» formula in Touche Éclat. The fact that the product has not changed at all in appearance or in texture is a sign of its success: Worldwide a Touche Éclat is sold every ten seconds.
6 | ESTÉE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR Launch Year: 1982 It is not only the world’s most successful repair serum, but also the first! The herb-scented skin care cream has been one of the bestsellers of beauty giant Estee Lauder for over 30 years. It has more than 25 patents worldwide and is constantly enhanced according to the latest scientific findings. However, how it works has remained the same: it repairs the cells overnight (when they are most active) while a powerful combination of antioxidants neutralises free radicals and provides a high dose of hyaluronic acid for moisture. The fact that the serum is for all skin types and ages - and may also be combined with any facial treatment - has contributed to its success.
7 | NARS ORGASM BLUSH Launch Year: 1999 Stylist and photographer François Nars has probably made more women happy with this little pot than any other man – and not just because of the products risqué name! «Orgasm», a peachy blusher with golden shimmer pigments was launched just before the turn of the millennium but then suddenly became a hype product two years later after countless make-up artists and beauty editors raved about it. The winner of countless beauty prizes is sold in the US alone twice every minute – and, according to NARS, the total weight of «Orgasm» sold annually roughly works out to a Lamborghini Diablo.
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8 | REVLON SUPER LUSTROUS LIPSTICK IN «FIRE & ICE» Launch Year: 1952 Granted, with its iconic «Super Lustrous» lipstick, Revlon has a great home field advantage, as for over 70 years it has been the most successful lipstick in the world with 82 different colours. Among its best-selling shades is number 720, the pink red «Fire & Ice», which for over fifty years has belonged to the range without interruption and – depending on the fashion and era – was more popular in the 1950s and less popular in 1970s. The colour has caused divides in the online community, as it can appear almost orange depending on the complexion. But for those who find the deep blue-red (also a classic) «Ruby Woo» lipstick from MAC too bold, this classic is a charming must have with its lovely retrodiem touch.
9 | OPI NAIL LACQUER IN MALAGA WINE Launch Year: 1989 Few Beauty brands were able to take advantage of the major economic crisis in 2008 as much as the Los Angeles-based brand OPI («Oh-Pii-Ei»): In difficult times, women tend to treat themselves to «smaller fashion luxuries», such as striking nail polish instead of an expensive designer handbag.
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The OPI co-founder and current Brand Ambas sador Suzi Weiss-Fischmann already created the biggest bestseller in the company’s 25 year history with the very first 30-shade colour collection. She continues to surprise herself even today – the flattering, deep red tone has hundreds of fans all around the world who are not only tempted by the product’s charming name.
10 | NUXE HUILE PRODIGIEUSE HUILE SÈCHE MULTI-FONCTIONS Launch Year: 1991 It’s easier to ask what you can’t use the velvety French care oil for: Huile Prodigieuse is by far the number 1 care oil in France – every minute ten bottles are sold worldwide – and thanks to the oil boom in the beauty sector, the product is experiencing a brilliant revival. The dry oil consists of six valuable vegetable oils (macadamia, hazelnut, borage, sweet almond, camellia and amber). It nourishes, repairs and makes both skin and hair supple. Because of its very soothing, but non-greasy formulation and the unmistakable joyful scent, it has also turned into somewhat of a cult product outside of France – and does not contain preservatives, silicone, mineral oil or dye; it contains 97.8 % natural ingredients. In line with the times or what?
BEAUTY
1 | The exciting fragrance for the modern Muse
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Like the other two Modern Muse fragrances from the house Lauder, the new Modern Muse Le Rouge is also based on the duality of dynamism and softness. The chord of seductive rose and sensual cream leaves two very different impressions from the first spray of the fragrance. An exciting fragrance combination for women who inspire others with their selfimage, glamour and elegance. For those who like to take centre stage and live their lives.
2 | The reinterpretation of a scent The Hermès perfume classics stand for the history and the message of the house. And so since 2013 attention has been devoted to increasing the perfume classics. Playing with reinterpretation, Jean-Claude Ellena confides that presently his interpretation of the «Amazon» is a focal point. The mythical character of the original perfume corresponds to a free, emancipated woman whose focus is on achieving absolute freedom. He agrees perfectly with the zeitgeist of the 70s, that period in which the perfume was created. The gallopping horse sets the pace of today’s story. It is the story of a new Amazon. She is absolutely modern, bold, powerful and unmistakably feminine, just like the heroine of a video game or comic book. Jean-Claude Ellena has opened this young and futuristic fantasy world and sees this woman as engaging, perky and iridescent. In brief: A colourful, lively and cheerful perfume.
3 | Glamorous Indulgence & spontaneous luxury Marc Jacobs Decadence is an invitation to pamper yourself. A statement on expressive styling, luxurious workmanship and revolutionary fragrance design, inspired by one of the most iconic bags from Marc’s collection. Decadence lifts the unconventional spirit of the Marc Jacobs fragrance collection into a whole new dimension of luxury. The luxurious and sensual woody fragrance fascinates with its sexy top notes of Italian plum, golden saffron and velvety iris. The heart of this sensual fragrance is a bouquet of opulent Bulgarian rose, which merges with lush iris root and creamy Jasmine. Passionate liquid amber and warm papyrus wood unite in the base note to create a signature which exudes sophistication and luxurious pleasure.
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LIVING The Royal Opera House in Copenhagen, Denmark.
THE MASTER OF LIGHT
LARSEN
Like most architects who do well for themselves, he naturally has an opera house in his portfolio. Perhaps not as well-known as the legendary opera house in Sydney, which he helped construct, but no less spectacular. Lone K. Halvorsen |
Henning Larsen Architects
The towering glass faรงade with its impressive light and colour designs in the foyer of the Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik, Iceland.
LIVING
Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik, Iceland.
W
e’re talking about Henning Larsen – one of the longest-serving, Danish architects. For 50 years he has combined beauty with functionality. He was called the «master of light» and became one of the most successful Danish architects. In June 2013 Henning Larsen died in Copenhagen aged 87. The Director of the School of Architecture at the «Royal Danish Academy», Lene Dammand Lund, said in an interview, «Denmark has lost not only an internationally recognized architect, but an inspiration and a mentor to many generations of Danish architects».
An Opera House with Complications Henning Larsen worked on numerous cultural buildings. Germany has him to thank for the Würth art gallery in Schwäbisch Hall (2001). He gained international recognition through the construction of the Copenhagen Opera House (2004). This opera house was in many regards problematic for Henning Larsen. He had the tricky task of designing a world-famous opera house, which would go on to attract attention for centuries with its acoustics and architecture. The architect was unhappy over the course of the project, since the construction work was «bodged» by the man who funded everything, billionaire Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller. More and more charming comparisons were made – and in exceptional cases not only by the media but also the professional sector. Both the roof and the glass front of the Opera House were disputed over.
The uncompromising contractor, Mærsk Mc-Kinney Møller, added 40cm-wide steel strips across Larsen’s transparent facade. This completely ruined Larsen’s idea of letting light shine through the spherical auditorium like a piece of amber. In an interview on the subject he said: «We made a compromise which failed. And this makes me sad». If the Little Mermaid on the other side of the harbour could turn around, she would see the most expensive «gift» to Danish history: The structure cost 335 million euros. But time is the healer of wounds and the Opera House has made a huge impression with its unique location in front of the royal family and with its clear glass, limestone and metal contours. Even after Henning Larsen’s death his office, «Henning Larsen Architects» continues to plan and develop cultural buildings. The office is currently planning an opera house in China which will be the centrepiece of a new cultural district near the metropolis of Hangzhou. In addition to the Opera House, the project includes a theatre, two museums, an art school and retail space. Situated in the middle of an artificial lake, the opera
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house will certainly stand out in its free and playful design not only because of the musical performances.
The Last Prize The international breakthrough came for the architect, who was born in 1925 in Opsund, West Jutland and educated in London and Copenhagen, when he designed the Foreign Ministry in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia in 1979. In this monumental building, he creates a brilliant synergy between European and Islamic architectural traditions. Even then he demonstrated that his central theme would be playing with light.
© Thomas Mÿlvig
Throughout his life he led a creative agency that saw great international success. A year before his death, he received the «Praemium Imperial», which is regarded as the Japanese «Nobel Prize for the
Arts» and in the category for architecture competed for the Pritzker Prize. For the Harpa concert hall in Reykjavik he was awarded the «Mies van der Rohe Award» in 2013. The facade of the concert hall was created in collaboration with the Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. Eliasson designed the spectacular facade and, as so often seen in his work, he combined the beauty of nature with the technically refined. The individual elements of the glass facade are reminiscent of the cross-section of basalt. The building merges with its surroundings through its reflections and questions its static nature. The chairman of the «Mies van der Rohe Award» jury, Weil Arets, expressed his enthusiasm at the awards: «Harpa has captured the myth of a nation – Iceland – that has consciously acted in favour of a hybrid-cultural building during the middle of the ongoing Great Recession. The iconic and transparent porous «quasi brick» appears as an ever-changing play of coloured light, promoting a dialogue between the city of Reykjavik and the building’s interior life. By giving an identity to a society long known for its sagas, through an interdisciplinary collaboration between Henning Larsen Architects and artist Olafur Eliasson, this project is an important message to the world and to the Icelandic people, fulfilling their long expected dream.» And with these words, Henning Larsen received his last prize.
© Thomas Mÿlvig
The Wave in Vejle, Denmark.
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THE ARCHITECT DUO HERZOG & DE MEURON
© Forgemind ArchiMedia
Jacques Herzog (born 1950) and Pierre de Meuron (born 1950) have known each other since their childhood in Basel. After completing their studies at the ETH Zurich, they opened an architect’s office in their hometown in 1978 and it was from here, on the banks of the Rhine that they started to shape the world. Today Herzog & de Meuron is a well-known, successful and popular company. The clear structure of their designs surprises in its detail as a prism for the environment, matter and functionality. Seemingly sluggish buildings are transformed into a subtle game of fundamentals, such as their early signal tower for the train station in Basel. The concrete core of the building is covered with copper which catches the light and makes it vibrate with the passing trains. After their international breakthrough with the development of the «Bankside Power Station» for the Tate Modern, they dedicated themselves to both large and small projects. They have often cooperated with artists such as with Ai Weiwei, for the construction of the Bird’s Nest for the Olympic Games in Beijing. They build private houses, blocks of flats, highrise buildings, stadiums and museums. They devote more and more attention to space and volume, which is reflected in their newer buildings. Both are visiting professors at Harvard and the ETH in Zurich.
3 QUOTES «We try to find our architectural designs the same way a detective finds evidence at a crime scene and a scientist finds a system in nature. It’s all there, it just takes a great effort to piece it all together.»
«Architecture is the extension of the architect’s body into a new, projected manifestation. It is a kind of reproduction, an impression, or rather an expression of the architect’s sensory experiences..» «A desire to learn, has always been one of our motivations. And we have always learnt thanks to new collaborations which brought us further in our work. We always sought dialogue, from the very beginning. Originally, the dialogue only took place between ourselves, Herzog and de Meuron. Later, we sought it from others, especially artists.»
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RECOGNISED AS WORLD HERITAGE SITE BY UNESCO
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© CIVC – Alain Cornu
«Brothers, come quickly. I am drinking stars!»
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Dr. Thomas Hauer
t is likely that Dom Pérignon, patron saint of arguably the most prestigious Champagne cuvée, who is still often praised beyond historical fact as the creator of the noblest of all sparkling wines, never actually said the above quote. This is because the noble brewery had long discovered fizz before they appointed the Benedictine monk in 1668 to cellerman of the Abbey of Saint Hautvillers, situated between Reims and Epernay. Still, champagne has become a cult. And so the image of the monk with the first ever bottle of champagne in his hands, surrounded by his brothers in a cellar lit only by torches, is more an expression of a deeply rooted desire for a creation myth – be it about the cosmos or popping corks.
UNESCO World Heritage Site In any case, 350 years after its birth in the chalk cellars of Champagne, the epitome of luxury beverages has finally earned the rank of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. More specifically, the «Coteaux, Maisons et Caves de Champagne». It refers to the historic wine regions around Hautvillers, Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and the Saint-Nicaise in Reims, the historic champagne houses, the famous Avenue du Champagne in Epernay and a series of cellars that span approximately 250 kilometres underground. However, the AOC, i.e. the area within which sparkling wines may be produced and marketed under the champagne label is considerably larger than the area classified by UNESCO. It comprises some 34,000 hectares of vineyards, 320 towns and no less than five Departements, namely Marne, Aube, Aisne, Haute-Marne and Seine-et-Marne. The best wines come from the world famous Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards of Montaigne de Reims, des Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs or Côte de Bar. Hence, place names such as Aÿ, Ambonnay, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize or Bouzy – identical to the Cru vineyards – are music to the ears of any true champagne fan.
An estimated 1.5 billion bottles of champagne currently waiting for connoisseurs in the region’s cellars.
The «Invention» of Champagne Although the tradition of wine growing goes as far back as Roman times, champagne as we know it today has a relatively short history. Although Reims became an important trading centre in the Middle Ages due to its convenient location, only about 130 kilometres north east of Paris, the non- carbonated and mostly red Vin de Champagne or Vin de Reims had almost nothing in common with champagne as we know it today. Nevertheless, the wines of the region were very popular. The fact that French kings were crowned in the local Notre Dame Cathedral, or its predecessor, gave the local wine a royal touch from the outset. As a result, it had become very popular in the courts during the 15th and 16th centuries – not just in Paris, but in London as well. We owe the actual «invention» of champagne to chance. In the 17th century, merchants started to partially fill bottles with wine, which was exclusively shipped in barrels, before they were transported. Due to the comparatively harsh climatic conditions in the Champagne region, the alcoholic fermentation often stopped before the sweetest grape had completely fermented. During spring, the wild yeasts in the bottle would become active again as a result of the rising temperatures. This gave rise to what we refer to today as méthode champenoise. The bubbles which formed during the second fermentation were trapped in the bottle and, if you were lucky, provided a pleasant tingling sensation on the tongue once opened. Voilà! Champagne was born. Less lucky champagne pioneers would have the contents of the bottles shoot out everywhere often with a loud bang. This is where the rather unflattering epithet for champagne originated: vin du diable – devil’s wine. When one bottle exploded, it would often result in a chain reaction causing all of the poor winemaker’s delicious treasures to blow up in his face. Chronographers have reported that for some years, up to 80 per cent of all champagne production ended up this way. It was
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© Michel Jolyot – Association Paysages du Champagne
The Marne Valley in Aÿ with its world famous Grand Cru on the horizon.
INFOS Information on vinitourism deals in Epernay, Reims and their surroundings: www.ot-epernay.fr and www.reims-tourisme.comInformation about medieval Provins: www.provins.net
only in the mid-19th century, with the scientific description of the alcoholic fermentation process by Louis Pasteur, that winemakers were able to bring the process under control. Had the clientele across the Channel not loved the sparkling wine from the start – Great Britain is one of the major importers of champagne – the fizzy elixir would have met an early end, as the bubbles were originally considered an unwanted production error.
Bottled Business Cards This is where the bustling Dom Pérignon and his friend Jean Oudart, cellarman of the Saint-Pierre aux Monts de Châlons Abbey, finally came into play and transformed the art of winemaking, which was still in its infant stage. The two monks discovered that it was not only the bubbles that increased the quality of the wine from the region but also the deliberate blending of wines of different layers and grape varieties. They also learned that white wine could be made with red grapes. This method is known today as assemblage. To make a simple champagne, 4 to 6 wines from the Grande Marques are partially blended with more than 300 different base wines of different terroirs, years and grape varieties to make a harmonious cuvée which bears the typical mark of a champagne house or winemaker. Hence, most Brut wines are a sort of bottled business card.
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Shortly before disgorging, the champagne bottles are tilted gently, thus undesirable sediment and suspended matter accumulate in the bottleneck.
lived and traded here more than 750 years ago. It is around this time that the wines of the region were first mentioned in documents. Once a year, Provins is now the scene of the largest medieval spectacle in France. But now it’s finally time to advance into the centre of Champagne.
© Fulvio Roiter
The Heart of Champagne
But enough of the theory. In celebration of the UNESCO classification, wine leaders in the region gathered in early October in the Champagne strongholds of Reims and Epernay to celebrate this historic event. We begin our tour de Champagne just outside of the current boundaries of the region, namely in one of the UNESCO World Heritage towns called Provins. However, during the Middle Ages, it was actually under the protection of the Counts of Champagne. In the 12th and 13th centuries, one of the most important markets took place several times a year, attracting merchants from all over Europe. We can be sure that at this market in France’s third largest town at the time (after Paris and Rouen), wine from Champagne was traded – or even consumed – along with wool, furs, spices and precious fabrics. Even today the perfectly preserved medieval town centre, which is surrounded on several sides by a monumental city wall, gives a vivid impression of how people
To first provide us with a bird’s-eye view, let us start having taken off from the grass runway of the Aérodrome de Plivot, a small airfield just outside of Epernay, in a single-engine Robin Major, flying through the royal blue autumn sky. In the cockpit is Gilles Marguet, a pilot in his free time, he works as an oenologist at the winemaker cooperative in the Grand Cru-village of Mensil-sur Oger and claims to know every vineyard that passes underneath us like the back of his hand. Marguet takes us in circles over the smooth rolling hills of Montaigne de Reims and the Vallée de la Marne. Below us, a river lazily snakes through the densely forested hills, topped with vineyards while the powerful autumn sun bathes the landscape in liquid gold. This is the heart of Champagne. Passing the famous windmill, the landmark of the Mumm champagne house, we continue towards Reims with is distinctive cathedral, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then we made a sharp left turn over the hilltops towards Hautvillers before we headed back towards Epernay. Back on the ground we set off to the centre of the Champagne capital, Epernay. More specifically, the legendary Avenue de Champagne, where some of the most famous champagne houses in the world are situated, like pearls on a string, such as Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët or Pol Roger. In total, there are around 30 producers, each with their own magnificent buildings. 10 to 20 metres beneath the avenue span more than 110 kilometres of cellars. The longest belongs to the industry leader Moët and is 28 kilometres, closely followed by the Mercier cellar which is 25 kilometres. In this underground labyrinth more than 200 million bottles of champagne are kept at a constant humidity and a temperature of 10º–12º. The following day we took the bus en vignes to the Moët cellars which opened again to the public at the beginning of October after a year of renovation. This unique opportunity offers champagne enthusiasts the chance to travel around Epernay in a luxurious vehicle, which is even equipped with its own kitchen, and to see the most beautiful views and fascinating producers in the region. Always on board: An Ambassadeur du Champagne, who offers tastings at the various stops on the tour. But it gets even more exclusive: On-board we enjoyed a full meal. While we were enjoying the panoramic views of the vineyards of Champillon down to Epernay through the glass front, our mobile chef, Eric, tempted our palates with juicy snails, nettles à la crème, cod with wakame or avocado ice cream. Meanwhile, our champagne expert Geoffrey Orban informed us of the subtle differences in taste of a selection of wines which came from different terroirs. Our favourite: a 100 % Pinot Meunier champagne – the third grape approved for champagne production after Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – which was aged 50 % in an oak barrel. The bouquet is an intense roasted hazelnut and caramel! Cornalyne, as it is called, is produced by a cooperative in Passy-Grigny, which markets its champagne under the label Dom Caudron. Here you can get a good deal for 30 euros but you can expect to pay between two to three times as
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© Juergen Rohrscheid
© Civa – Claude et Francoise Huyghens Danrigal
Base wines for champagne Cüvée are vinified separately according to location. Wooden casks are in recent years once again in fashion here.
Historic labels tell a lot about the eventful history of the luxury elixir.
much at the larger champagne houses thanks to elaborate marketing campaigns. Only a stone’s throw from Champillon is the small village of Hautvillers – home of Dom Pérignon. When visiting the old abbey church, we lit a candle for the Benedictine monk as a sign of thanks for his services to the world’s champagne connoisseurs – an act of honour! The social highlight and conclusion of our tour was an evening gala at the festively lit Palace du Tau. The former residence of the Archbishop next to the Cathedral of Reims was the place for luxurious banquets and feasts after the Kings’ coronation ceremonies for centuries. Hence, it was the ideal place to host the illustrious champagne gala. And that night we commoners felt like kings as we had the opportunity to enjoy a first-class dinner, accompanied by exceptional champagnes in the historic vaulted cellars. Our favourites: an excellent Blanc des Noir Verzenay from the Mumm house that perfectly complemented the tender chicken breast in Truffeljus and the Grand Cru Rose Louis de Sacy, which turned out to be the perfect companion to a strawberry champagne soup with almond biscuits.
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Wedding Cake-Sytle Chateau By the way: If you ever travel to Reims, be sure to visit the Champagne Pommery. Situated under the wedding cake-style chateau are perhaps the most beautiful vaulted passages in the whole of Champagne. Unlike in Epernay, Champagne houses in Reims could rely in part on so-called crayéres, ancient underground limestone quarries whose history dates back to Roman times. Many of the underground galleries at Pommery, which span approximately 18 kilometres in total, are therefore more reminiscent of the insides of cathedrals than disdainful maturing cellars. Santé!
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PURE PLEASURE
COFFEE THE SECRET OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE COFFEE
Where does the world's most expensive coffee come from? The mountains of Sumatra. The beans are harvested and then not roasted, but fed to the civet cat.
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Yvonne Beck
n Indonesia there is a viverrid, whose love for mature, purple coffee cherries is the starting point for the most exclusive coffee in the world. The animals’ digestive tracts can only digest the pulp – the nuts, i. e. the coffee beans, pass through untouched. Before this happens, the bean is refined by digestive enzymes and stomach acid. With the breakdown of the proteins, the bitter substances in the beans are destroyed at the same time. The coffee beans remain intact. Through this extraordinary fermentation, the beans maintain their unique flavour. Coffee connoisseurs describe the coffee as: «earthy, musty, mild, syrupy, rich and with undertones of the jungle and chocolate».
However, many of the coffee lovers are not bothered by this. The final product is exclusive. And for that they pay – in London, for example, a cup of Luwak Coffee costs 35 pounds.
Elephant Coffee – Black Ivory
Other groups, however, are already looking for alternatives and one has been found in Thailand. The speciality coffee «Black Ivory» is similar to «Kopic Luwak» and what the Indonesians do with the civet, the Thais do with the elephant. They feed the elephants a mixture of rice, fruit and Thai Arabica beans. In the digestive tract the bitter substances are removed from the beans. 30 kg of raw beans are needed to Animal Welfare produce 1 kg of refined beans. Furthermore, Civets are predators who are mainly found not every bean passes through unharmed. in Asia, Africa and Madagascar and feast on Some are crushed between the elephant’s smaller animals, insects, worms nuts and teeth and are therefore destroyed on their the ripe red coffee fruit. But according to way out. 70 kg are currently produced each – Helga Schäferling – PETA, the growing interest in coffee has a year. Unlike the civets, the elephants are dark side: In the beginning, the animals’ not abused. This is because the animal cofdroppings were collected but now there is a fee processing takes place in the «Golden tendency to use intensive livestock farming methods. Driven by Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation». The institution’s aim is to profit, the omnivorous civets are either caught in the wild or bred provide a safe home for elephants. And part of the coffee proin captivity. The helpless animals are kept in cramped cages and ceeds goes to the veterinary care of the elephant foundation. force-fed coffee cherries to continuously refine the coffee beans. Coffee lovers can expect to pay 1100 euros for 1 kg. Needless to say that this is extremely detrimental to the wildcats who love climbing and is tantamount to a death sentence due to malnutrition.
Coffee time is the witching hour. It awakens the spirits.
ABO
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