Beauty Biz year 14 issue 3 by Mocha Group

The Essential Business Guide for Salons and Spas

GLOBAL LEADERS IN

EDUCATION & PRODUCT INNOVATION!

Year 14 Issue 3

GLOBAL LEADERS IN MICRONEEDLING

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by CLINICALLY PROVEN TO

THE DIFFERENCE

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• Tilting needle plate for minimal epidermal trauma, increasing client comfort • Adjustable needle speed and depth

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Reshaping our industry through science and technology, bespoke innovative products and advanced education

ABIA

AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY AWARDS 2021

! y r t n E or f n e p O Finalists Announced 28th June 2021

Winners Announced at the Gala Awards 29th August 2021 The Star, Sydney

Tickets on Sale NOW www.mochapublishing.com.au/shop The Awards period for all entries is October 2019 – April 2021 – 18 months. This is longer than usual to incorporate pre, during and post Covid times to give all entrants an opportunity of demonstrating their business success in the financial quarter pre-Covid, how they dealt with Covid during restrictions/closures and post Covid coming in to the new year.

www.australianbeautyindustryawards.com.au

THE ABIA CATEGORIES EDUCATOR CATEGORIES Best Industry Educator Individual Best Industry Educator Organisation INDIVIDUAL CATEGORIES Beauty Therapist of the Year Salon/Spa Director/Owner of the Year Best Cosmetic Tattooist SPECIALIST CATEGORIES Best Marketing Award Best Customer Care Award Salon Team of the Year Best Salon Training Award Best Business Performance of the Year (non-salon) SALON CATEGORIES Tanning Salon of the Year Best Eco Salon/Spa of the Year Best Salon Design STATE CATEGORIES NSW/ACT Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year (4 Treatment rooms or Less) NSW/ACT Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year (5 Treatments rooms or more) VIC /TAS/SA Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year (4 Treatment rooms or Less) VIC /TAS/SA Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year (5 Treatments rooms or more) WA/NT Beauty Salon/Spa of the Yea (4 Treatment rooms or Less) WA/NT Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year (5 Treatments rooms or more) QLD Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year (4 Treatment rooms or Less) QLD Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year (5 Treatments rooms or more)

NOMINATED CATEGORIES Hall of Fame Mocha Angels Humanitarian Award VOTED CATEGORY State and National Wholesaler of the Year NEW CATEGORIES FOR 2021 NEW! Best Newcomer Salon of the Year NEW! Sole Operator of the Year (ABN Registered) NEW! Best Educator of the Year (Product/Equipment Company)

AMIA CATEGORIES Bridal/Formal MUA of the Year High Fashion/Editorial MUA of the Year Fantasy MUA of the Year AMIA Make Up Artist of the Year

PRIZES INCLUDE - Beautiful Trophy presented on the ABIA night - Use of the Title of winning category for 12 months - Coveted PR in leading trade magazine Beauty Biz, PR campaign for EVERY winner - Virtual meeting and personalised press releases with Branding and Communication experts Lily Blue Communications

www.australianbeautyindustryawards.com.au

dermaviduals 1300 420 223 dermaviduals.com.au

CONTENTS ON THE COVER

18-19 derma aesthetics – Global Leaders in Education and Product Innovation

REGULARS

08 Editors Letter 14-16 Industry News 50-51 Beauty Shop 52 Dateline City

FEATURE

10 Where Have All The Therapists Gone By Clare Lamberth 12 10 Minutes With Dr. Naomi By Clare Lamberth

SALON FEATURE

20 Touched By An Angel By Clare Lamberth

DERMAL

22 Dermalogica Says Thank You To Australia’s First Responders – Launching the New Smart Response Serum 24 Beware Of Plume By Danielle Hughes

26 Radio Frequency for Skin Rejuvenation By Nancy Abdou 28 Antimicrobial Peptides in Acne Skins By Gay Wardle 30 Are You Getting Enough Education By Robyn McAlpine 34 Do Your Patients Struggle with Acne?

BLOGS

EVENTS

BUSINESS

36-38 Beauty Squad House 40 The Ultimate Professional Beauty Event is Back!

54 Fill Them Up BOYS By Will Fennell 56 Shopping The Loop By Paul Frasca 58 The Sneaky Lie that Stunts the Entrepreneur By Elle Wilson 60 Turning the Ordinary into the ExtraOrdinary By Julie Cross

41 A United Voice for the Australian Beauty and Aesthetics Industry

62 Why Simply Education Clients Does Not Lead to a Sale By Chrissy Alger 64 Save Money Through Your Commercial Lease By Kelly Cunningham 66 Are You Laser Sharp on your Product Offering By Gry Tomte 68 Making Systems Sexy By Rebecca Miller

BEAUTY

SOCIAL

COUNCIL

42 Are Your Lashes Taking A Lashing By Natasha Creasey 44 Lash Trends for 2021 By Joy Crossingham 46 Nailing Nails By Lauren Burton 48 Inspiring Creativity By Charlotte Ravet

70 Go-To Stock Photo Websites For Your Beauty Business By Sarah Garner 72 Why Facebook Ads Won’t Fix Your Appointment Book By Clare Lamberth 74 Social Media Glow-Up in under 30 Minutes! By Rachel Medlock

Beauty Biz PUBLISHER

Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au

EDITOR

Editor’s Editor’s Note

Clare Lamberth clare@mochapublishing.com.au

ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au

ADMINISTRATION

Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS Clare Lamberth Danielle Hughes Nancy Abdou Gay Wardle Robyn McAlpine Natasha Creasey Joy Crossingham Lauren Burton Charlotte Ravet Will Fennell Paul Frasca Elle Wilson Julie Cross Chrissy Alger Kelly Cunningham Gry Tomte Rebecca Miller Sarah Garner Clare Lamberth Rachel Medlock

OFFICE

PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au

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Australia Post - Print Post 100005498

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PUBLISHED BY mocha publishing

PUBLISHERS OF

HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz & Barber Shop Beauty Biz is published six times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Beauty Biz does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Beauty Biz are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2021 mocha publishing All rights reserved.

It’s no secret that our industry is experiencing a staff shortage never seen before. Clinics are advertising for quality positions up to 12 months with no results. It seems that no matter how good your culture is, your values, your growth opportunities or incentives program, qualified Beauty Therapists are a dying breed in the Australian Beauty Industry. But where have they all gone? Laser Clinics? Nursing? Home Salons? Mindset of Gen Z? Just left all together? We surveyed the industry for this issues feature “Where have all the Therapists gone?”, and found that Senior Beauty Therapists were in abundance 5 years ago. There was a plethora of qualified and willing staff able to fill positions before a Seek ad could expire. Now ads run for months on end (and have more than doubled in price too!) making the screening process more costly than the induction phase of employment. It’s no secret that a skills gap exists in new graduates to our industry. Our industry has progressed in leaps and bounds with technology and cosmeceuticals common place in today’s clinic. Yet the Diploma still teaches Makeup, manicures and Hot Waxing for legs as a priority over cosmeceutical science, laser light therapies, infection control and peels. The modern-day Diploma-Qualified Therapist needs to be a mixture of industry ready, with the skills and knowledge of the Dermal focused industry even the most full service of clinics finds themselves in. Traditional Beauty Therapies will always be at the heart of our industry. The future and the self-care these traditional services of waxing, massage, spray tans and nails provide, build loyalty and connection with our customers. We need our Therapists to be able to continue this tradition. The skills gap lies in the knowledge and qualification to perform peels and skin needling as well as effectively and accurately prescribe cosmeceutical ingredients and correlating skin concerns straight out of college.

Does the Diploma of Beauty Therapy need to blend with an Advanced Diploma of Cosmeceutical Science to form one high achieve entry level education opportunity? Would an apprenticeship of Beauty Therapy empower Therapists with a more diverse range of industry-ready skills learnt in a real-life environment? Should a Diploma be 2 years full time and involve a more in-depth study into skin concerns, diagnostics, prescriptions and treatment modalities, including practical training in treating said skin concerns effectively? What do you think the solution is? I’d love to hear your thoughts over on the Beauty Biz Magazine Instagram and Facebook Pages @ beautybizmagaizne.

Clare xo Clare Lamberth, Editor clare@mochapublishing.com.au

thermal body treatments

FEATURE

WHERE HAVE ALL THE THERAPISTS GONE?

By Clare Lamberth

It’s the cry from our industry at large right now. Resonating most in regional centres who are busy but struggling to grow or replace staff due to a short supply of therapists nationwide. We speak to Therapists and Clinic Owners on the front lines of our industry to hear straight from those effected most where all our Therapists are going, and what the possible cause of this nation-wide staff shortage could be. Nancy Abdou, Lead Education Specialist at The Australian Laser and Dermal Institute. I hear this a lot when speaking to Clinic & Salon Owners. It definitely seems to be increasing. Either employers can’t find the great Therapists, or they lose them to other positions / career paths. Over my 18 years in the industry I have left and re-entered the industry 4 seperate times. Each time was for the same reason, that the industry no longer brought me joy & I was forced to make a decision between my personal life and my career. As a predominantly female industry, we all know that the majority of our Therapists will, at some 10

Beauty Biz Year 14 Issue 3

point, embark on some pretty huge adventures & challenges in life. - Marriage - Motherhood - Purchasing a Home - Mental health challenges - Physical health challenges These times in our lives are already so stressful, the last thing we should worry about is how our careers may be affected. Unfortunately, though, many Therapists choose to either leave the industry, or work from home, when things get too hard to manage, or when the working environment becomes unhappy. Not to mention the guilt that can come with letting an employer or your team down. Sadly, this is how many Therapists feel during the happiest times in their lives. “How am I going to tell my boss I’m pregnant, or that I need a few weeks over Spring Carnival to get married!” Equally, every business owner knows the feeling

of finding out your star Therapist is pregnant. It’s one of excitement for them, but also stress and worry of how you’re ever going to fill that void! I wish I had an easy solution, but my only thought is that we, as an industry, need to ensure that we let our valued therapists know (often) exactly how valued they are! Business owners sometimes forget that hard working, loyal therapists still need to know that you would hate to lose them. Let them know that you will support them through their challenges (whatever they might be), and as long as you can make it work for your business, you’ll do whatever you can to make sure they remain happy at work & it fits in with their lives. The Therapists I know who have stayed in the industry, have experienced employers that did this. It creates a mutual respect between Employer and Therapist and is a win win situation. The amazing therapists I know, who are no longer therapists, or work for themselves, experienced the opposite.

Kerry Fulluck, Mia Bella Skin Boutique, Sunshine Coast, Queensland. I actually have no idea! I can’t understand where all the qualified Beauty Therapists have gone! I know a lot that are doing nursing training so they can go into Dermal Therapies, and a lot have left the industry completely. But surely there must be Senior Therapists somewhere?! It’s so frustrating and super disappointing I have been looking for a Senior Therapist for my Sunshine Coast Clinic since we came back from the first lockdown last year!! I’m a reputable clinic, I stock great brands, I’m a great boss, I have good values and opportunities for my staff. I have given up putting adverts in Seek, as you get too many randoms (not qualified) applying just for the sake of it. The only Therapists that I get applying now are, girls still at Beauty School, or just qualified, which to be completely honest is a total waste of time. I’m finding new graduates are no where near salon ready! They can’t even wax a leg or underarm! I’ve hired 2 Therapists straight from Beauty School in the past year, spent time, money and effort nurturing and training them for them to either leave to go to laser clinics or leave because they couldn’t handle the “pressure” of the job as it wasn’t what they thought it was going to be. Servicing clients, rebooking, educating/ retailing to clients. I know a lot of therapists have set up at home or have the one room salons because they think they are going to make money. It really is a massive problem for our industry that so many of us are struggling with. My business if suffering so much as we are very busy, at 95-100% capacity and utilisation but I can’t grow my business anymore, as I want to, because I don’t have the therapists to service our clients. My business is at a stand still at the moment, which is so frustrating because, since Covid my clients have realised how important self-care and treating your skin is to their mental health. So, they are wanting to come in more regularly for longer treatments. I would definitely consider sponsoring a therapist from the UK if that was an option. Beck Fawcett, Senior Beauty Therapist Endota Canberra I feel that since COVID, and the many lockdowns, Therapists are just unsure if this will happen again and have decided on a complete career change. Also, now Student Therapists have to pay for their Diploma by taking out Student Loans. Study teamed with paying off debt and working a Casual job at the same time means for lots of Therapists they are finding it too hard and unaffordable to study Beauty Therapy any more. It could also be that they decide to do it and drop out part way through as it just seems to hard for them and it’s not what they thought the industry would be like. Possibly a lot are mums and with beauty being a 7-day job for us they may not be able to get a position in a salon with an understanding boss to help with hours around the children.

There is such a big skills gap between what we learn at college, and the rskills Therapists require for the “real world” of Beauty Therapy. I’d love to see a return of the more traditional Beauty Therapy apprenticeships, so Therapists can get real, hands-on-experience in salons. I think they would benefit so much from this. I love the Spa environment and would love to help teach upcoming Therapists to have the same passion I do one day.

Pru Ashe, Senior Therapist & Trainer, Macquarie Medi Spa

Jess Callahan, Clinic Owner, Hush Beauty and Skin.

Home salons have also played a big role in luring Therapists away from traditional clinic roles. There’s no regulation so literally anyone can set up in a spare bedroom. The rise over the last 5 years has been incredible. These makeshift businesses run without the large overheads of a commercial salon. Most do cash only so don’t pay tax, but also don’t always have the insurance and protection for the clients like commercial clinic are required to have. I see a lot of the home salons charging almost the same prices as commercial salons do, but don’t provide the experience.

The training and regulations standards have not caught up with the rapid growth and expansion of, leaving the industry with either low-skilled and poorly trained graduates - or highly intelligent degree educated women with no clear sector in the industry. The training needs of our industry need to be reformed. I’d love to see more definitions and opportunities given to Therapist who advanced their skills into more development. This might help to keep them in clinic who offer these skill sets rather than being lured away to clinics to pay higher and do recognise the higher education. to level 1 beauty adviser, cert 3. level 2 beauty therapist diploma, level 3 advanced therapist, degree with clear definition between all levels students can choose the path they want to follow and study what they actually want to do . I’d love to see a tiered educational system with a larger mix of not he job training. I think level 1 should be at college, then perhaps diploma from age 18 with year 12 pass and a 2 year practical and uni-level training. With practical placement employment at each level gives real life experience and career ready staff!

I feel Therapists leave the industry for a number of reasons. Saturdays have always been a hot topic in our industry. In my own role I have worked hard and been rewarded with more flexible working arrangements, so I am able to be with my children. Compromise is so important in the workplace.

I think Therapists initially chose the home salon path for more flexibility. You get to set your own hours/days to work for you. You can do what treatments you like none of what you hate and use only the products that you want I would say would be the perks. The downfall what happens if your sick there is no body to cover for you and you cancel your whole day and make no money that sounds scary to me. You take the full brunt of a complaint you’re doing the refund it’s just you dealing with somebody unhappy with nobody else to back you up. Sometimes I feel like people just want the cheapest service but my clients always say it’s the total experience we provide at the salon and they would pay anything within reason to have it over and over again. Where do you think all the qualified Beauty Therapists are going in our industry? Have your say over on the Beauty Biz Magazine Instagram and Facebook pages @beautybizmagazine. Beauty Biz Year 14 Issue 3

FEATURE

i m o a Dr. N

10 MINUTES WITH

By Clare Lamberth

From humble beginnings in regional coastal New South Wales, to the soaring highs of a aesthetically fine tuning the faces of Sydney’s elite and a 6 figure Instragram account, Dr Naomi shares with us her journey to where is today, her passion for high quality care for her patients and her new skincare line, Dr Naomi Skin.

“I’M A WORKAHOLIC, AND I DO WHAT I HAVE TO DO WHILE WORKING TOWARDS DOING WHAT I WANT TO DO.”

Tell us about yourself. Where did you grow up and what led you to study medicine? I grew up in Newcastle, 2 hours north of Sydney. I was really young i.e. 17 years old when I had to choose my Uni degree and didn’t know what to do. I thought, “I wouldn’t mind learning about the body for a year until I decide what I really want to do” then the years just passed, and I graduated. My second choice was architecture, and I think that was really what I wanted to do. I got to make the world beautiful in a different way by choosing cosmetics though, but I think cosmetic medicine has the same drive as design/ architecture which is a love of transformations and aesthetics. Tell how you first start out in the Aesthetics industry? I was a resident in a hospital having trouble choosing a specialty. I was about to choose psychiatry, but then Botox landed in Australia, I went and had it and knew my future immediately. I was a young beauty achiever; I was made for this career. How did The Manse come to be? After being in the cosmetic industry for over a decade, I started a blog in the early days of social media (2011) and it became very successful, as there was so little quality content online at that time. I really wanted to make social media my fulltime job and I worked towards that goal by opening a cosmetic business. What’s your clinic’s niche in the aesthetics industry? We see the sophisticated beauty achievers in the industry. Those who want the advanced nonsurgical treatments and the highest level of beauty design. We are a clinic focused on excellence in safety, results, service and technology.

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How do you go about trying to find balance between work, personal life and pursuing professional endeavors? I’m a workaholic, and I do what I have to do while working towards doing what I want to do. I mostly love what I do now, which is being the creative director on multiple teams. Your Instagram account has become an infamous source of inspiration, fun, education and insight into your skin and business journey. How has your notoriety online influenced your business? Being big on Insta makes my business more popular with a younger and beautiful patient group, which is fun, but fortunately we have multiple sources of marketing so we get to see a wide range of types and ages as well, which I love. As a clinician, I just feel too much pressure. People have this expectation that I can do some type of magic. As a person, my fantasy is to be irrelevant and a recluse. I don’t really like being notorious much. Congratulations on Dr Naomi Skin! Tell us about the process of creating the line and what led you to it? I have always been into brightening since I had my first cosmetic job 20 years ago prescribing the original brightener (Kligman’s formula). When we are using injectables, lasers or skincare, our focus is on the reflection of light. That is the origin of beauty, so of course it’s my obsession. I didn’t understand why other cosmeceutical brands only had 1 brightening serum or maybe 2. I just wanted to make something that gave results and that people would be addicted to because they were so much happier due to using it.

“WE SEE THE SOPHISTICATED BEAUTY ACHIEVERS IN THE INDUSTRY. THOSE WHO WANT THE ADVANCED NON-SURGICAL TREATMENTS AND THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF BEAUTY DESIGN.”

Who is the Dr Naomi Skin client? Our brand has been developed for our clients whom we refer to affectionately as Beauty High Achievers (BHAs). From all genders and age groups, they’re well informed on latest cosmetics trends, treatments and of course ingredients and formulations. We wanted to have comprehensive range from launch (18 potent formulations and 1 cleansing device) to make sure we would be offering tailored skin solutions to address all major skin concerns, using the latest development in skincare delivery systems (look out for our Drone Peptides that delivers ingredients right where they are needed for maximum efficacy), and of course science backed proven ingredients to make sure our BHAs will be fully satisfied by the level of sophistication involved in our formulations. Any plans to put Dr Naomi Skin in other clinics in the future? At this point in time, we plan to have the range available in my clinics (The Manse Paddington and Uptown) as well as exclusively online on our website DrNaomi.com. As any new business, we want to learn from our customer base and involve our community and listen to their feedback before expanding our distribution, to make sure we delivery at every level. Skin Heaven is in the details! So for next 12 months at least we will keep the brand very tight, but stay tuned for more news when we feel the time is right. How does Dr Naomi Skin sit alongside professional Dermal Therapies (treatments like laser, peels, resurfacing, needling etc) Whilst the range has been developed with a clinical mindset, to enhance treatments performed in our clinics, and to restore skin health post procedure, at this point in time our focus is on retail Direct to customers model. We have worked hard to ensure the range, whilst comprehensive, was also easy to navigate with 3 distinct ranges (EverySkin, Fillerista and Rejuvenate) and clear easy to follow 7 steps to help with the at home application and often tricky layering.

How do you find the line alongside traditional cosmeceutical and medical grade skin care lines? I am proud to say, that we have worked hard to bring a fresh new approach to skin health and Dr Naomi Skin entire range is focused on brightening at its core. Our formulation ethos is based bringing radiance and luminosity to all skin types. Each and every one of our 18 formulas work synergistically to reduce pigmentation, even out skin tone, reduce redness and clear congestion to deliver that sparkle back to the skin no matter what the concerns are. The range addresses Fine line & wrinkles, loss of firmness, sensitivity, dryness and dehydration with our selection of powerful serums, moisturisers and our exciting Super Oils which we all love so much, always keeping in mind our BHAs and ensure that their skincare regimen works to deliver visible results and that radiant Selfie ready skin (without the need for the filter apps). What are your plans for the future for The Manse and for Dr Naomi Skin? Whilst we are keen to have our products out, officially available on site from the 1st if June 2021, after 3 years of development and testing, we have already about 6 other products in the works, so we will keep on adding to our range to ensure we are always at the forefront of innovation in skincare science. As far as our expansion plans go, well we have global ambitions and we are not shy about it, but for now, one step at a time and we could not be prouder to be able to bring this unique range to market and keep on innovating to deliver the best for all BHAs out there. With The Manse clinics, we are focused on opening a third right now. We also bought the site for a 4th over a year ago and will work on that once our third is operational. Discover Dr Naomi Skin at www.drnamoi. com and follow Dr Naomi’s insightful & hilarious Instagram account at @drnaomi1.

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INDUSTRY NEWS INDUSTR REFECTOCIL IS POWERING AHEAD WITH NEW KERATIN INFUSED ‘PINK POWER PERM’ SOLUTION

thickened which has increased its humectancy to improve application on the skin. All of the existing gold-standard H, E and O moisturising components are still packed into the dual-chamber jar, ready to intensely nourish your skin.

PURE FIJI IS A PROUD RECIPIENT OF A 2021 ISPA INNOVATE AWARD IN THE PHILANTHROPY CATEGORY

Everyone knows how amazing RefectoCil tints are; however, we have so much more to offer when it comes to lash and brow styling. This year we’ve hit the ground running by focusing on elevating our range, in particular with the introduction of the dual purpose Lash Lift and Brow Lamination kit. This exciting new keratin enriched ‘Pink Power Perm’ delivers exceptional results for both Brow Lamination and Lash Lifts while simultaneously caring for the condition of the lashes and brows. Clients no longer need to worry about damaged lashes and brows which can be caused by over processing. This revolutionary, fast processing formula (6+5 minutes) lasts 6-8 weeks and delivers consistent outstanding results. Although the product is already available at select distributors, RefectoCil Australia plans to officially launch the new dual purpose lash lift/brow lamination kit at this year’s Beauty Expo (August 28-29) along with the retail line of Full Brow Liners and Highlighters. We’ll be performing complimentary treatments and a few lucky volunteers will have their lashes and brows styled by the amazing RefectoCil trainers who also will be sharing tricks and tips to achieve a WOW effect. The stand (L129) is a must visit this year as we will be offering incredible product specials which will be available exclusively to Expo attendees. Follow our Instagram page @ refectocilaustralia to be the first to know about these promotions. Lash Lift and Brow Lamination services have been a triumph and are dominating the lash and brow space right now. If you haven’t already added these services to your salon menu, the Beauty Expo is the perfect platform to experience live demonstrations, meet the RefectoCil team and chat with our Educators to learn how best to introduce this service into your salon. It’s essentially free training… what’s not to love!

MEDIK8 H.E.O HAS RETURNED

Following one of the most popular launches of 2020, Medik8 to pause selling H.E.O. Mask due to a small leak of the dual-chambered jar into the cap area. While this was insignificant to many, to the company thiswas not the standard they require for their customers. Hence, it was taken off the market, and Medik8 have been working tirelessly to find a solution to the leaking problem. The good news is that with a small packaging change, and a formula tweak, the new updated H.E.O. Mask is now back! The fill of the H.E.O. Mask has been reduced to 2x40mL chambers to prevent any leakage, for an improved experience and the blue phase has been slightly

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The International SPA Association (ISPA) has named 12 winners in the 2021 ISPA Innovate Awards. This year’s awards highlighted solutions and innovations implemented specifically in response to the COVID-19 pandemic in three categories: business practices, philanthropy and technology. From humble beginnings making hand-made soaps and body oil with a team of five working around a kitchen table, Pure Fiji now produces a full skin and body care line and employs over 200 people across 2 factories in Fiji’s capital, Suva. This is in addition to a network of farmers and harvesters from local Fijian villages. Their ability to provide jobs to the community thus changing lives is of the upmost importance and involves as many people as possible to be a part of their production process. While some processes could be automated, Pure Fiji choose to employ more people, believing in the human touch (where there is a hand, there is a heart and soul!). Pure Fiji is a family business and every employee is a part of their extended family. Pure Fiji is honoured to have won in the Philanthropy category for Supporting Rural Communities in times of need. Pure Fiji developed and distributed sanitiser and essential items to groups in need, and provided food, educational supplies and other relief to Cyclone Yasa victims.

DR NAOMI LAUNCHES NEW COSMECEUTICAL SKINCARE LINE.

Dr Naomi Skin, is the result of 20 years of skin expertise created by pioneering Australian Cosmetic Physician, Dr Naomi McCullum for the Beauty of High Achievers, affectionately known as BHA’s. An industry first-of-its kind, Dr Naomi Skin has brightening at the core of the

RY NEWS INDUSTRY NEWS range across all of its 18 products. The proprietary Brightening Cocktail feature across all 3 product collections in the range - Everyskin, Fillerista, Rejuvenati, and works to target pigmentation, improves clarity and restores a luminous sparkle back to the skin. Known for her patient-centric attitude, Dr Naomi has an intimate knowledge of what people want aesthetically - she knows exactly what goes on behind closed clinic doors, but she also knows there’s no quick fix and believes skin health starts at home and works hand in hand with cosmetic treatments. Inspired by in-clinic cosmetic transformations, Dr Naomi brings the same philosophy to these topical treatments to transform skin now and in the future, by focusing on both immediate results on application (instant blurring and lifting), and long-term skin health. It’s selfie-ready-skin (with no filters needed!). Dr Naomi Skin has everything we’ve come to expect from next gen skincare. Australian made, cosmeceuticals grade, highly efficacious, vegan and cruelty free clean ingredients and innovative technology. “3 years in the making, we have worked relentlessly to create a science-based cosmeceutical range, not only using the most advanced technology and ingredients but also bringing to the a market a truly unique and fresh approach to skincare.” Dr Naomi shares. Dr Naomi Skin is available exclusively at www.DrNaomi.com

DARWIN’S FIRST HAIR & BEAUTY NETWORKING EVENT LAUNCHES

Born out of a desire to see Skin, Beauty and Hair salons thrive over closing their doors in Australia’s far north, Dee Moore from Moore Beautiful, has created Fixing Crowns a networking & education event brining big town speakers & education, normally found in major capital cities, to the bush. “This event aims to unify and connect all beauty industry professionals in Darwin. It’s time to put Darwin on the map and collectively show Australia that

yes, we’re a small town, but we have killer talent. Speaking from first-hand experience as a clinic owner herself, Dee knows firsthand need to be proactive and to go and seek opportunities and travel interstate to meet and learn from other salon bosses. Dee explains “The Territory is unique in its own right so let’s create our own community. The Northern Territory has some of the best businesses and most talented workers in the world and I want to begin to support and showcase this through Fixing Crowns.” Simple words of encouragement can make a big difference. Dee Moore Fixing Crowns aims to recreate the “warm fuzzy feeling” when another salon boss comments on a social media post or recommends you, in real life. Taking owners back to grass roots values and know-how mixing with the tenacity and drive only rural business owners possess Dee hopes the event , the first of its kind in Darwin, will unite local business in the regional and create stronger business practices to strengthen the regions presence in our industry. It may be overused but I’m going to say it anyways, collaboration over competition. Come on beauty industry. I don’t want to see more businesses have to close their doors. If we can work together to keep Darwin salons alive and thriving; then my mission here is complete.

BOOK YOUR TICKETS NOW beautyexpoaustralia.com.au

28-29 August 2021 ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour

THE ULTIMATE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY EVENT FEATURING 200+ LEADING BRANDS AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY & AESTHETICS CONFERENCE AFTERPAY MAIN STAGE MAKEUP AWARDS + MORE

EARLY BIRD TICKETS End 4 July

INDUSTRY NEWS INDUSTR AFTER PAY RELEASES BEAUTY & FASHION TREND PREDICTIONS

AfterPay has released its bi-annual trend report for Australia& New Zealand, taking a closer look at what customers are shopping for over Austumn and Winter . This report showcases the top selling products from the online “buy now pay late” giant. With self-care still playing a big part in consumer buying trends, top trending beauty items include brow products, sunscreen. hair oils and nail polishes. Clinics can expect consumers will also be reflecting these trends with the new Afterpay Card feature rolling out national last month. As we’re starting to celebrate big events like weddings again, Aussies are taking this opportunity to get frocked up in gorgeous gowns with beauty trend to compliment this fashion trend. And although we’re heading into the cooler months, as Hailey Bieber has reminded us all, it’s important to continue wearing sunscreen to protect our skin. Colours that represent and celebrate skin tone in chocolate, camel and nude are becoming increasingly popular in real life and on Instagram. While deep olives, jade and mint are also trending and are associated with nature, serenity and being grounded. Lilac blew up when Oprah wore it in her interview with Meghan and Harry, and we predict we will continue to see hints of this hue as we move into the cooler months.

THE ULTIMATE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY EVENT IS BACK!

Beauty Expo Australia will once again unite the beauty industry in the country’s largest celebration of all things beauty, at the ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour on Saturday 28 – Sunday 29 August. With the whole beauty industry at your fingertips, discover and experience over 200 leading brands and products, world-class education, live demonstrations and competitions across one wonderful weekend. Tickets are on sale now with early bird tickets ending July 4, so book now. www.beautyexpoaustralia.com.au

VIDA GLOW GLOBAL LAUNCH.

Vida Glow, an early entrant into the ever-growing nutricosmetics market. From day one, has pushed the boundaries of quality and efficacy, promotes optimal skin function, delivering essential micronutrients to the collagen matrix below the dermis. Recognising that customers scrutinise ingredients and demand transparency, Vida Glow recruited Australian skin experts in early 2020 to educate consumers on collagen supplementation and breakdown the buzz words that

clutter the nutricosmetics industry. The expert panel includes scientist Dr Michele Squire, dermatologist Dr Philip Tong, dietitian Chloe McLeod and skin aesthetician Jocelyn Petroni. Soon, this panel will evolve to have an international influence, consisting of skin and beauty experts at the forefront of the industry, from the UK, USA as well as Australia. For 2021 and beyond, Vida Glow will continue to innovate within the ingestible and skincare category. Challenging global industry standards and exceeding consumer expectations Vida Glow is committed to delivering revolutionary, first-to-market products, backed by science.

ONCE AGAIN HAIR, BEAUTY AND BARBER INDUSTRIES UNITE TO RAISE ONGOING FUNDS FOR LOVE YOUR SISTER

The Mocha Group, led by Linda Woodhead, aligned with Samuel Johnson and Love Your Sister in 2018 as an official affiliate fundraiser with a goal of raising $500,000 and by enlisting an incredible network of hair salons, beauty salons, spas and barbershops to help reach that goal are well on the way to achieving this. Salon Registration for the 2021 Love Your Sister Campaign is open for the official Hair/Beauty/Barber Salon Pyjama Day to be held on Saturday July 31st 2021. Fundraising activity will commence on July 1st and continue until August 13th 2021. Having already raised over $150,000, the Mocha Angels hope that this year the hair, beauty and barber community will get back involved with as many activities as possible culminating in PJ Day, after having a little rest in their PJ’s in 2020! The original target of $10 Million has been reached and exceeded by Love Your Sister and there is now a new Breast Cancer Lab at Garvan which costs about 20K per month to operate. Any further monies are directed into general cancer research, including rare cancers. Cancer is cancer and whilst Love Your Sister started as a breast cancer advocacy group, they are now a village that fights all cancers. This mocha angels fundraising page has been set up as an affiliate page to the official LYS page for the entire annual activity so that all donations through-out the year will go directly to LYS and not be held by Mocha or any other third party. As our fundraising activity is specifically related to a specific time of the year, this will also show us how much we raise for specific campaigns. Monies raised during the Pyjama fundraising campaign can be directly deposited into this fundraiser account. This way all monies are seen and all financial activity is 100% transparent. All salons and barbershops are encouraged to raise money from July 1st through to the close off date of August 13th and can do this any way they choose, culminating in Pyjama Day on Saturday 31st July!. On this day it is traditional for all staff to wear Pyjamas to work and raise as much as they can. In previous years the Pyjama Day campaign has seen individual salons between $100-$10,000 each!!! Let’s see what the entire hair, beauty and barbershop industries can do together! Samuel Johnson has said that he will also actively promote this activity as an incredible hair and beauty community initiative, founded by The Mocha Group and gain as much publicity as he can through his media channel contacts. On behalf of the Mocha Angels and LYS thank you for your support! You must register to be involved and to receive your information kit. Please go to https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/TYTGR8S

R new smart response serum delivers what skin needs, when + where needed

hydrate brighten soothe firm

Become a Dermalogica stockist, call 1800 659 118 for more information

COVER STORY

derma aesthetics

Global Leaders in Education and Product Innovation! derma aesthetics recently celebrated their 11th birthday and after more than a decade in business, they are still just as determined to help better the industry through product innovation, education and industry leadership. derma aesthetics proudly distribute the dermaviduals bespoke skincare range, the globally acclaimed EXCEED Microneedling Device, as well as MTS-Rollers and epi nouvelle+ naturelle products. Their entire product house follows the philosophy of Corneotherapy, which is a preventative approach to skin care that works from the outside in, with a focus on repairing and strengthening skin barrier function.

EDUCATION SPECIALISTS

June 2021 saw the launch of their Education Hub. At derma aesthetics education is at the core of all they do. Their aim is to advance the level of knowledge for aestheticians throughout Australia, New Zealand and globally; to ensure best practice and to train a new generation of engaged and inspired therapists. Their passion to educate and motivate aestheticians has led to the creation of their Education Hub. Their Education Hub has launched with three portals, each of which have their own modules of learning. • Skin 101: The Foundations - Skin Anatomy and Physiology • Practitioner’s Guide to Skin Health: dermaviduals Product Knowledge • EXCEED Medical Microneedling - Theory and Practical

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Each education portal has been designed to take therapists’ learning & knowledge to the next level consisting of personalised competency-based learning and outcomes regularly assessed via exams & quizzes to consolidate knowledge.

function, the integumentary system, intracellular responses to microneedling, phases of wound healing, consultations & clinical set up, client preparation and best practice for microneedling treatments.

Skin 101: The Foundations - Skin Anatomy and Physiology has been created to provide participants with a sound understanding of the integumentary system, and the cells, systems & layers of this anatomical structure. This course will provide the learner with the fundamentals necessary to feel confident learning about the most complex and largest organ of the body.

PRODUCT INNOVATION

Practitioner’s Guide to Skin Health dermaviduals product knowledge is designed for dermaviduals stockists and covers the skills & knowledge required to understand the concept of Corneotherapy, the background of dermaviduals and practical application of the entire product range. dermaviduals is used to treat a vast array of skin types, and more importantly, skin conditions and diseases via a unique bespoke concept. The EXCEED Medical Microneedling course is perfect for any therapist that works with a microneedling/collagen induction therapy device, no matter the brand. This course deep dives into both the theory & practical components of microneedling, including skin health &

dermaviduals have recently released two unique serums in their modular & customisable range - Hyaluronan NAG Liposomes and Complexion Skin Care Liposomes Plus. Hyaluronan NAG Liposomes is more than just hydration; it’s hyaluronic acid reinvented. This product combines the power of hyaluronic acid and the essential building blocks for skin to generate its own hyaluronic acid with an advanced & targeted delivery system. The physiological ingredient N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) in this serum provides skin with the ability to ignite its own production of hyaluronic acid (HA). NAG also increases elasticity & moisture levels in the skin, supports enzyme activity, is an antioxidant & anti-inflammatory, acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor interfering with the formation of melanin and has regenerative effects on & within the skin (among a myriad of other fantastic benefits). Not only is Hyaluronan NAG Liposomes able to minimise the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles, but it can also make visible & cellular improvements to other skin conditions such as congestion, acne tarda, inflammation

Category: Acne Winner: Samantha Rodgers, EKO Skin Care Spa

Category: Acne Runner up: Christine Tiberi, Be U Beauty

Category: Age management Winner: Fernanda Reuff, Nanda’s Beauty

Category: Age management Runner up: Fernanda Reuff, Nanda’s Beauty

Category: Body Winner: Rachael Walther, CleanSkins Laser Clinic

Category: Body Runner up: Molly Sly, Vanish Skin & Laser Clinic

Category: Pigmentation Winner: Kathleen Klassman, Soul Awaken Skin Therapies

Category: Skin barrier disorders Winner: Cheryl Penna, Urban Sense Wellness Clinic

Category: Skin barrier disorders Runner up: Kate Hudson, Studio Eleven

Category: Under 15 years of age Winner: Seetha Griffin, Seetha Louise Traralgon Beauty Salon

Category: EXCEED Microneedling Winner: Jen Roche, Halo Hair Body Beauty

Category: EXCEED Microneedling Runner up: Jessica Carey, A Peace of Beauty

and pigmentation. This serum actively supports cellular hydration levels, ultimately encouraging a better functioning stratum corneum and surrounding defence systems that are required to make a healthy, functioning skin.

capillaries, ensuing less redness & vascular concerns, in addition to supporting the wound healing process. It also inhibits tyrosinase, which is responsible for creating melanin, resulting in the reduced appearance of pigmentation.

The Complexion Skin Care Liposomes Plus is designed to even complexion and reduce skin redness by inhibiting melanin formation and stabilising peripheral capillaries. Formulated with two powerhouse ingredients, niacinamide & tranexamic acid, this serum is a first in our industry. Vitamin B3 Niacinamide inhibits the transfer of the melanosome to the keratinocyte, which improves skin elasticity, enhances skin barrier function, helps improve skin discolouration and revives the skin’s healthy tone & texture. Niacinamide increases ceramide and free fatty acid content of the epidermis. It also decreases trans-epidermal water loss and increases dermal microcirculation, plus it’s an excellent antioxidant & anti-inflammatory. Tranexamic acid provides intensive care for rosacea and atopic skin conditions. It reduces inflammation and oxidative stress, making this active ingredient extremely anti-ageing. Tranexamic acid stabilises peripheral

REPRESENTING THE INDUSTRY

to industry needs. With enormous respect and support, they proudly back the industry. Facilitators are on hand to support your every need in business and will connect you with expert advice & representation to enable your clinic to thrive.

dermaviduals are proud to be Founding Members of the newly established Industry Council: the Aesthetic Beauty Industry Council (ABIC).

If you’re employed in the aesthetics industry or own a salon, spa or clinic, head over to theabic. org.au to sign up, or phone 1800MYABIC.

They are honoured that their Co-Founder, Reika Roberts, has been elected as Chair, and look forward to collaborating with many great industry voices as they prepare to elevate professional standards, enhance working practices and unify the salon, spa and clinic industry - something derma aesthetics are incredibly passionate about. derma aesthetics have always worked hard to enhance professional standards within their derma family, but now have an opportunity to collaborate and take this so much further to create a better industry for all.

CHANGING LIVES, NOT JUST SKIN

derma aesthetics recently ran a Before & After Competition to showcase the incredible results & skin journeys their partner clinics achieve every day. They are thrilled to share the winners… Contact derma aesthetics to find out more about their product offerings and Education Hub: 1300 420 223 | dermaviduals.com.au enquiries@skincorrection.com.au

ABIC has been established to represent small business with a large voice and respond Beauty Biz Year 14 Issue 3

SALON FEATURE

l e g n TOUCHED BY A An

By Clare Lamberth

From a chance manicure in the Hunter Valley and a small “start out” space in a Makeup School to a 20 year legacy of excellence in Sydney’s southerns suburbs, Rebecca Daniels from Angel Touch Skin Boutique has a heart of gold and a passion to make our industry a better breeding ground for raw talent. Tell us a little bit about yourself and how you came into the industry and started your career. 20 Years ago I booked myself in to my local Day Spa in the Hunter Valley to have my nails done for a special occasion, I was an avid Netball player so having my nails done was completely foreign to me and I really did not know what I had booked in for, it was a new type of manicure with a Gel coating called “Bio Sculpture Gel Nails”. I did not know that, that nail appointment was about to change the direction of my life. I connected with my nail girl Michelle who is still a friend to this day and currently owns her own successful salon in Newcastle. It was by divine luck that a few appointments later the owner of the Day Spa overheard part of our conversation of me asking Michelle about becoming a Beauty Therapist and what college she would recommend, she popped her head in and asked if I was a Therapist. I said, “I will be” and she offered me a job on the spot, “come see me when you start your training”. What do you love most about your work? 20

Beauty Biz Year 14 Issue 3

I love having a laugh with our clients and I love the smile on their faces when we finished their treatment, whether it be a first time brow tidy or our regular clients for their facial. Tell us about Angel Touch. How did it start, when, how has it evolved over the years what do you specialise in. In 2003 I moved to Sydney and worked for a year for a beautiful lady in a small salon until she sold the business. I had to make a decision to either find another job in a salon or start my own.. Sounds simple huh? I started Angel Touch Beauty in a single room in a building with a Makeup School. Starting out with little money but lots of drive I designed and printed my own service menus and would walk and deliver them around the neighbourhood in between clients to try and build the business, I did this for 6 months and within 2 years I had grown to the point that I was working 6 full days and needed to look for a bigger space and start looking for my first staff member. I found my bigger space in the beautiful suburb of Oatley and I knew the minute I walked in that

I had found my place. Over the years we have evolved from a mostly nails and waxing salon with a beautiful renovation and expansion of rooms and rebranding to Angel Touch Skin Boutique in 2018. Now we are mostly focused on Skin Health with HydraFacial, Skin Needling, LED, Peels and Facials being our main treatments. What does Customer Service mean to you? Customer Service for me is the personal touch to make our clients feel comfortable and welcome. We all acknowledge and say hello to our clients when they come in and always with a smile. Sounds crazy I know but I cannot tell you how many times I have been to personal appointments and the staff do not even acknowledge me walking in. For our facials our beds are heated and the rooms are lit by Salt Rock lamps only, they only have so much time with us and we all know how stressful our lives can be, it’s our job to make them forget their worries and stresses for the time we have them whilst giving them the best treatment possible. When waxing a large towel is laid on the bed so they can cover themselves and be comfortable

when we enter the room. Placing a blanket over our clients when they have a lash tint and tucking their feet in so they are not cold, they are only little things but these things make our clients feel important and cared for and sometimes we are the only people they will see through the day or week and I always walk my client to the door and open it for them when they are leaving, always. This is all along side doing a great job for them also. How do you like to follow up with your customers after they’ve seen you? All follow ups for our procedures are through phone calls to check all is working out the way it should be and to see if they have questions regarding their home care and any concerns. We keep in touch with our ladies through email keeping them up to date with new treatments or products and through social media also. For their birthdays we email them a voucher to come and use in the salon and I cannot tell you how excited they are to receive it, they make me laugh. It is for $10 off any treatment or $20 off any of our top 10 treatments. For years we have had a system where every October I sit down and book all of our clients in for their treatments for the following year. This takes me a lot of time but it assures me a full-ish diary for the following year and it assures our clients that they get the times and dates that they want. It also means we see them regularly. Which signature treatment are you most known for? We have two treatments that are extremely popular for us. Our HydraFacial is amazing and completely obsessive once you’ve had one and see what comes out of your skin. There is nothing like it that compares and our regular facial clients are now substituting every 2nd or 3rd of their regulars facial for a HydraFacial and this works perfectly. Our other most popular Treatment is our Hydropeptide Facials. I just love this brand, it is highly active yet luxurious and this is where we really get to treat our ladies. I did a survey with our ladies and one of the questions I asked was “Do you come for a facial to treat your skin and keep it looking beautiful or do you come for relaxation and to nurture your soul?” 89% said they come for relaxation and to nurture their soul but loved that it came with the benefits of having beautiful skin also. Almost every treatment we do in the salon has an element of relaxation now. How has your business evolved and changed over the years? The evolution of a Beauty Salon over 18 years has been brilliant to watch and work through. Starting out mainly as waxing and nails and the occasional facial then working through the introduction of nails bars and laser clinics that wiped out most of the small salon basic treatments really meant we had to evolve and roll with it. I read every beauty magazine I could to see what the Latest Trends were, (I still do) I went to every Sydney Beauty Expo and tried to be different by introducing new treatments to the salon before most people had

heard of them. When LED was introduced to salons I bought The Max7, the technology was so new to our clients that they did not want to even try it though now we use our Dermalux LED almost daily. Our industry has really struggled to find staff. How do you go about attracting the right team members to your clinic? Finding the right staff is tricky. I do not hire off skill sets, of course you need to know how to perform the basic treatments but I hire based on personality, attitude and passion. Skills can be taught, love of the job and being able to communicate and care for our clients cannot. We work so closely together, if one staff member is not right for the team it can be destructive to your salon. When reopening from Covid I found myself looking for staff. I hired against my own rules and based my hiring on resume’s out of fear of needing help. This was a huge lesson for me so I wrote down exactly what I was looking for in a therapist and did not waver until I found her, lucky for me she was just around the corner. What do you see as being a fix for the lack of Therapists in our industry right now? I had so many resumes coming in when I put an add through Seek so I didn’t have a lack of therapists applying but what I found when talking to so many of these girls was the lack of proper training to get these girls “REAL LIFE” salon ready. Yes they will get training on the job to learn our systems and procedures but… I have a new girl that started with me 3 months ago who is just a delight to work with and she spent $28,000 on her “Private” Beauty training that finished in 1 year and was mostly done online due to COVID. When she and her parents voiced their concern at the end of the course telling them that she did not know what she was doing and she did not feel confident to go and work in a salon, it fell on deaf ears. They were simply told that her course was for a year and it was finished though they were welcome to pay for another course and refresh her knowledge... The sad part about this is her first pedicure training she told me she learnt more in that hour than in the whole year she had been at college. There are girls out there desperate to get into a salon but cannot get jobs because they don’t have experience and we can’t hire them because we cannot afford the time it takes to fully train them especially while we rebuild our businesses after Covid. I would love to see the training standards lift and the hands-on in salon work experience time to complete a course hours extended. What do you have planned for the future? I would love to go and learn to become a Beauty Therapy Teacher and work with the hands on skills and reading the skin. I would be a tough teacher though, no-one passes until it is perfect.. Follow Rebecca’s journey at www.angeltouchskinboutique.com.au and @angeltouchskinboutique

DERMAL

Dermalogica Says Thank You to Australia’s First Responders Launching the New Smart Response Serum

Dermalogica’s latest Australian campaign has recognised and says thank you to the more than 300,000 First Responders in Australia working on the front lines responding to the unprecedented events of 2020-2021 to keep us all safe.

“DERMALOGICA BELIEVES THAT WE HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY – AND THE RESPONSIBILITY – TO HELP KEEP PLASTIC OUT OF THE ENVIRONMENT.”

Dermalogica’s latest game-changing innovation, the new Smart Response Serum, provided the inspiration to feature 4 reallife First Responder ambassadors in a photographic shoot. The video provides a glimpse into how First Responders, much like the new Smart Response Serum, respond to challenges under ever changing circumstances allowing us to appreciate the invaluable contribution they make to our lives. Smart Response Serum’s advanced formula is targeted to recognise and address microchanges in the skin before they’re visible to the naked eye, effectively addressing skin’s needs in real time. It responds to skin’s signals – intelligently addressing skin concerns and helping to prevent future damage. Best of all, it does all this before you even notice. Thank a First Responder Day was held on June 9th 2021 It is well documented that feeling appreciated and valued is important for our wellbeing. Social isolation and low levels of social support are associated with chronic illness and are a high-risk factor for suicide. Thousands are putting their own mental and physical health at risk to battle a highly infectious disease during a global pandemic; ferocious bushfires that devastated much of Australia’s east coast have seen firefighters, paramedics and police rush into situations most would flee from. The unrelenting nature of their work means many first responders do not have the time or resources to recover mentally and physically from the situations they experience in their line of work. Illnesses such as Post Traumatic Stress disorder (PTSD) are common, and the impacts on first responders, as well as their families, can be overwhelming.

The simple act of saying thanks for the challenging, traumatic and dangerous work our first responders do will ensure these brave men and women know they are recognised, appreciated and valued by the communities they protect. Saying thanks will also be a critical step in helping first responders understand that just as they support us, we’ve got their backs too. Dermalogica encouraged Australia to participate in the initiative on the 9th of June by saying two simple words: Thank you. For more information on please visit firstresponderday.com.au Also on June 24th in conjunction with Australia Retail Association First Responders Day, Dermalogica will be offering all First Responders at selected authorised stockists, a complimentary ProSkin30 to say thank you. View the campaign video here! Dermalogica’s proud commitment to sustainability At the end of 2020, 90% of all Dermalogica packaging will be recyclable or biodegradable – and going forward, all paper and cartons will be FSC certified to be sustainable for forests. Additionally, all Dermalogica formulas are manufactured in California, which boasts some of the world’s strongest environmental and consumer protections. In line with this commitment to sustainability, Dermalogica believes that we have the opportunity – and the responsibility – to help keep plastic out of the environment. As part of a commitment to create a cleaner planet for future generations, its new Daily Microfoliant Refill is made with 92% less plastic, 95.6% less oil and 95.7% fewer greenhouse gas emissions compared to the Daily Microfoliant canister, sifter and cap.

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DERMAL

BEWARE OF PLUME! By Danielle Hughes

WHAT IS PLUME? Plume (also known as surgical plume or cautery smoke) is a by-product of thermal damage where the tissue is heated to a point that it releases cellular fluid as vapour and the cell contents (and surrounding tissue) are released into the air. Every year thousands of health care workers (and of course now aesthetic practitioners) are exposed to plume, along with the cocktail of toxic chemicals, potential bacterial and viral pathogens and particulate matter that result. Plume can be visible or invisible. And if it’s smelt, it’s definitely inhaled. It is major health hazard that all aesthetic practitioners must be aware of, particularly those performing LASER and IPL procedures. You may have even smelt plume at a Beauty Expo whilst watching a plasma pen (‘fibroblasting’) demo – it’s characterised by that noxious odour, not at all pleasing to the senses and dangerous to your health. Not only can plume be inhaled through the respiratory system, it can also be absorbed by the skin, particularly through open wounds/lesions/ impaired barrier and settle on unprotected eyes.

WHAT IS IN PLUME? 95% is simply water. But the remaining 5% of the vapour is where matters become dangerous. There are more than 80 toxic chemicals that make up this 5%. Just some of the headliners include: · Benzene · Butadiene · Carbon monoxide · Formaldehyde · Hydrogen cyanide · Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons · Toluene That’s right, everything from a neurotoxin used in chemical warfare to known carcinogens and unstable molecules that can create free radicals within the body.

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The biological component of plume is known to also contain blood, bacteria and virus such as hepatitis virus and human papillomavirus. Given the recently identified increased role of viral shedding through skin cells, the list of virus that the operator is exposed to demands preventative action be taken to minimise risk and the transmission of disease during an aesthetic procedure.

WHAT ARE THE KNOWN HEALTH IMPLICATIONS OF PLUME EXPOSURE?

Ongoing inhalation of plume can create inflammation within the body, most specifically to the respiratory system. By ‘breathing’ in the toxic-plume-infested air, conditions such as pneumonia, bronchiolitis and asthma can also occur from the physical presence of microscopic particles that set up residence in the air sacs. These further result in the transport of biologically unsafe matter around the body. Excess exposure can lead to life threatening issues, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, or the potential to cause cancer. It has been published that the ablation of only 1 gram of tissue has the mutagenic effect on the client, nearby staff and operator of smoking 6 unfiltered cigarettes during the procedure time!

WHAT TREATMENTS CAN CREATE PLUME?

ANY treatment that heats skin tissue to the point of vaporisation. The most notable and commonly practiced within the beauty industry include: · Laser hair removal / skin resurfacing · IPL hair removal / skin resurfacing · Plasma skin resurfacing / ‘fibroblasting’

HOW CAN YOU AVOID EXPOSURE?

Of course, it is not a practical solution to suggest we just stop performing these treatments! So negating the deleterious effects of plume rests in the best practice of the operator, adhering to health, safety and strict infection control procedures.

According to the NSW Health Department, the control of exposure to surgical plume involves the following key steps: · Use of appropriate personal protective equipment – face mask or respirator that can filter up to 0.1 micron, face shields and eye protection, gowns, gloves and heat and foot covers · Training and education of staff on the dangers of plume, potential cross contamination risks and implementation of effective policies and procedures within the salon or clinic to minimise exposure for both clients and therapists alike · Effective biological filtration through ventilation of the environment where plume is, or can potentially be created. More details surrounding plume evacuation systems and air filtration systems can be found at NSW Health website www.health.nsw.gov.au · Safe handling of biological products and blood borne pathogens According to the Australian and New Zealand Standard for Safe use of lasers and intense light sources in health care, “all materials used to collect air borne contaminants (e.g. filters, masks and tubing) are considered a bio-hazard and shall be handled and disposed of, using standard precautions for blood borne pathogens”. Forewarned is forearmed, particularly in matters of public health. From owners to operators, clients to expo visitors, everyone is at risk from plume without the correct procedures being observed. Now is the time for the cosmetic industry to comply with the protocols already practiced in medical offices and hospitals when creating plume. As an educator, Danielle Hughes encourages aestheticians to constantly strive to be steps ahead of the growing segment of savvy consumers who ask knowledgeable questions. She stresses that estheticians have a responsibility to be at the forefront of new technologies and research and must be practitioners of authority, in order to counsel, advise, and direct their clients on what is most beneficial to their skin and ultimately, their body.

Your skincare choices can SAVE THE PLANET www.prologicskincare.com.au | @prologicskincare_aus

DERMAL

Radio Frequency for Skin Rejuvenation:

An Oldie, But A Goodie! By Nancy Abdou

Skin ageing is inescapable, due to both intrinsic and extrinsic factors which lead to a reduction in collagen, degradation by metalloproteases (MMPs) activity and lowered function of epidermal keratinocytes, resulting in wrinkling and skin laxity. This leads us to an increase in demand for results driven skin rejuvenation – without surgery or extended periods of downtime! Radio Frequency (RF) has not let us down, stepping up to the challenge that we are currently facing (excuse the pun!). Utilising controlled thermal trauma, RF is able to overcome this ageing dilemma by inducing neocollagenesis, and contracting lax skin – and quite well too, on all Fitzpatrick skin types, since RF is colour blind! RF energy is a current that can be delivered through various tissue types (ie, skin, fat, and muscle) to generate thermal energy, that has been used in many medical fields including; cardiology, urology & oncology, just to name a few. Initially used in the 1920s as an electrocautery tool, the use of RF to contract collagen isn’t a new concept. For example, orthopaedic surgeons have used RF to contract areas such 26

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as shoulder ligaments, responsible for instability, for over a decade. Over the last 15 years RF has seen an increase in its diversity, being used in aesthetic surgery. In 2002, the FDA approved the first mono-polar RF device for facial wrinkle reduction and since then other RF devices have evolved such as bipolar, multipolar, and fractional, with even more safety features. Unlike lasers, RF does not target specific chromophores by selective photo-thermolysis. Instead, RF generates heat as a result of different tissue resistance or impedance to the current. This means that heat is produced when the tissues’ inherent resistance, converts the electrical current to thermal energy. 3 mechanisms of action take place when RF

energy is applied to the skin: 1. Splitting of hydrogen bonds in the collagen triple helix causes shortening and thickening of collagen fibrils. 2. Initiation of a wound healing response, triggering angiogenesis, collagenesis, and elastin reorganisation, along with fibroblast stimulation to produce collagen over the following 3-6 months and 3. An increase in angiogenesis, lymphatic flow, increased oxygen supply and greater toxin clearance. Clinical studies show that skin surface temperatures ranging from 39°C to 42°C (subdermally temperatures from 65°C to 68°C) need to be reached for optimal contraction. However, if temperatures exceed a critical heat threshold, there is potential for collagen ablation and full-thickness injury, along with lipolysis (fat

destruction) – so it is vital to stay under 42°C. This is why it is imperative that practitioners utilise an Infrared Surface Thermometer. A common mistake made when performing RF treatments, is to use the clients pain tolerance, or visual and tactile cues (such as erythema and warmth to the touch) as a guide to reaching clinical endpoint. With such a small window of error, why wouldn’t you use such an affordable tool, to ensure you are creating skin tightening and not volume loss, or worse? There are 2 major electrode configurations available in current RF devices: monopolar and bipolar. Monopolar devices deliver a current using one electrode that transmits the current toward a grounding pad. Monopolar RF energy has been successfully used to accomplish non invasive skin tightening of the face, periorbital area, abdomen, and extremities. These devices typically have mild adverse effects, mainly being transient erythema and odema. Bipolar devices differ because they pass electrical current between 2 positioned electrodes. The tissue to be heated and tightened is between these 2 electrodes, and the depth of penetration is approximately half the distance between the electrodes. Therefore, bipolar RF devices offer a shallower depth of penetration when compared with monopolar. However, this configuration does provide more controlled or localized distribution of energy and less discomfort. No grounding pad is necessary with these systems because current does not flow through the rest of the body. Non-ablative fractional RF is available, which typically uses needles to deliver thermal injury to the sub-dermis, while leaving islands of tissue intact in between treated ares. As with fractional laser resurfacing, the unaffected areas serve to expedite recovery time. The fractional energy is delivered in a bipolar fashion with the tips of the needles carrying a positive charge and the faceplate of the disposable handpeice carrying a negative charge. The mechanical puncture of the needles also has been shown to improve skin texture and fine lines. Improvements in skin laxity and elastosis have been shown clinically with different fractional RF devices. RF energy has been shown to be a safe and effective method to obtain soft tissue tightening, in both clinical and histologic studies. We know that younger clients typically respond better to RF treatment. Contraindications are few, but may include elderly patients with thin skin, autoimmune or collagen vascular diseases, smokers, patients taking anti-inflammatory medications (which may impair collagen remodeling), and the presence of a pacemaker or other implantable devices. This is why skin prepping is so important, to ensure efficacious/enhanced results and higher client satisfaction rates, with minimal risks and downtimes. The Importance of Skin Preparation: When performing any traumatic treatment, such as IPL, RF, Plasma Fibroblast, Needing, whether thermal or mechanical we always need to make sure the skin is adequately prepared. This ensures a number of things; 1. First and foremost, we know that the use of active home care, prevents PIHP, especially

in darker skin types where the melanocytic activity is higher than a Fitzpatrick 1-3. 2. Preparing the skin optimises cell functionality, so when we are wanting to stimulate collagen (as we are when performing RF) we need to make sure the cells are working at their optimal capacity. Whats the point in treating a skin that doesn’t have the capability of producing collagen? Ensuring the skin functions the way it is supposed to is vital. 3. Skin preparation and it’s consequent improvement of cell functionality & wound healing, significantly reduces down time and the likelihood of side effects. We can prepare a skin in a number of ways. Firstly through homecare products. A minimum of 2-4 weeks of active ingredients is required, to ensure cells are working at their peak. LED - LED increases ATP levels in the skin. By the age of 50, our ATP productions reduces by 50% which means the cells don’t have the ability to heal properly. Increasing ATP, ensures the skin functions the way a younger skin would. I recommend 2-3 treatments a week, for 2-4 weeks before traumatic treatments. LED can be performed directly before a treatment, but not after. We don’t want to reduce the inflammation after treatment, as the inflammatory response is going to trigger fibroblasts, help increase cytokines and growth factors and contract collagen, we don’t want to halt that process! Perhaps as important as preparing the skin is post care - we don’t want to draw too much heat out of the skin, so stay away from soothing or calming products and cool compresses post RF, again because we want our inflammatory response to play out. We really just want to stick to a gentle moisturiser and SPF. You can lightly fan the client if they need it, however the heat from RF dissipates quickly and clients are generally quite comfortable 5-10 minutes after you reach your clinical endpoint.

as Skindividual’s HyaGlide (which contains both hyaluronic acid for optimal dermal hydration, as well collagen inducing peptides), as part of the clients home care routing and applied underneath your gliding medium prior to treatment, increases RF penetration and results. Clients should be drinking plenty of water leading up to any RF treatment. When delivering RF, we do not want to ‘dump’ heat too superficially into the skin, this means we want to try to reach our target temperature slowly and evenly. We need to avoid reaching our end point so quickly, that all of the heat is in the superficial epidermal / dermal junction. Generally working for 1 -2 minutes per area, results in the heat being evenly delivered to the dermis. The gliding medium you choose will help to achieve this! Not all gliding mediums are created equal or deliver the same results! Who would’ve thought? Conductive gel is exactly that, a conductor that conducts some of the RF energy superficially, which may result in superficial grazing and more epidermal heating. On the other hand, glycerine based gliding mediums, such as the Skindividual’s RF Glyde, are insulators, which insulate and protect the epidermis, ensuring the RF current is delivered to the dermis, enhancing results whilst reducing the risk of grazing, especially when a transducer is accidentally lifted off the skin! At The Australian Dermal & Laser Institute, we specialise in Monopolar, Bipolar & Fractional RF Training with all devices. If you aren’t seeing the amazing results you would like to from your RF device, get in touch with us at info@dermalandlaser.com.au Nancy Abdou CEO & Clinical Educator The Australian Dermal & Laser Institute

Increasing efficacy + Hydration!

www.dermalandlaser.com.au

RF likes the path of least resistance, which means a hydrated skin will enhance depth of penetration of the current, and allow for deeper and more even volumetric heating = better results! T. The use of a hyaluronic acid, such

B Ed (Sci Major). Dip H Sci. Cert Skin Sci. Cert Dermatology & Scar Repair Laser Safety Accredited

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DERMAL

Antimicrobial Peptides in Acne Skins By Gay Wardle

The Innate Immune System is the first defense system to protect against invading organisms, hence it’s very powerful presence in the epidermis. The skin is a host to normal microflora which is a colonization of bacteria that works with the innate immune system. Having a healthy microflora that works with the immune system protects the skin from invading pathogens that can cause harm to not only the skin, but the body itself. The second part of this defense system are the cells of the skin. The keratinocytes and sebocytes also play a role in recognising invading pathogens by using pattern recognition receptors (PRC) such as toll-like receptors. Once this stimulation occurs, an amazing activation of chemical reactions takes place where the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines and anti-microbicidal peptides are released into extra cellular space. This communication between the keratinocyte cells, sebocytes and immune cells is crucial in defending the skin against harmful bacteria that causes skin infections. The activation of pattern recognition receptors by keratinocyte cells and sebocytes is directly involved in the induction of antimicrobial peptides. So, what are Antimicrobial Peptides? Antimicrobial Peptides are crucial in maintaining the immunity of the skin by protecting against pathogens as well as maintaining healthy skin barrier homeostasis. Antimicrobial peptides are a very diverse group of cationic polypeptides that release a large spectrum of cytotoxic actions that destroy bacteria, viruses and fungi. During the inflammatory stages, the keratinocyte cells are the main cellular sources of antimicrobial peptides and their levels are equivalent with the susceptibility of skin infections. AMPs contain 12–100 amino acids and are cationic and amphipathic in nature, which can interact with negatively charged membranes of microbes or host cells They work with the immune system! Antimicrobial peptides are part of the innate immune response, they defend against both gram negative and gram-positive bacteria as well as viruses, fungi and cancerous cells. There two main classifications of AMPs, one that targets internal processes and the other targeting external processes of micro-organisms. 28

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They work by first attacking the outer cell wall which is the lipid layer of a bacteria cell. Inside this lipid layer is what is know as the outer membrane proteins, these proteins are receptors for antimicrobial peptides which begins to break down the membrane proteins. The next phase is to act on the inner membrane which allows the peptides to enter into the cytoplasm of the cell. This part of the action of AMPs will alter and inhibit synthesis of the cell wall, nucleic acids, proteins and the enzymatic activity of the entire bacteria cell. A group of AMPs will then target the DNA of the bacteria by electrostatic attraction which will negatively charge the bonds in the nucleic acid backbone of DNA. This action inhibits all macromolecular synthesis stopping all of the protein synthesis in DNA. The last phase is to interfere with all of intracellular proteins. Once the DNA has been disrupted the AMPs will directly set about destroying all the proteins within the bacterial cell. Proline and arginine are proteins within cells, AMPs release a substance which binds to ribosome subunits that then inhibits protein synthesis. There we have complete destruction of the bacteria cell. Acne & Antimicrobial Peptides Antimicrobial peptides are found to be at very high levels in both acne and rosacea patients/ clients. These high levels of AMPs leads to the realisation that they are important mediators in acne skin infections. Both keratinocyte cells and sebocytes release large quantities of AMPs in response to bacterial proteins such as P.acnes. These groups of molecule peptides attract other classes of inflammatory cells such as T-cells, monocytes and macrophages which when recruited increase the level of antimicrobial peptides hence increasing inflammation. Propionibacterium acnes is a commensal bacterium, which is involved in acne inflammation. Antimicrobial peptide named CEN1HC-Br, which was isolated and characterized form the green sea urchin, has been shown to possess broadspectrum antibacterial activity hence can reduce the inflammation. Antimicrobial Peptides in Psoriasis Psoriasis is a perfect example of an inflammatory condition in which the relationship between keratinocytes, which proliferates excessively and T lymphocyte, that maintains inflammation in the lesion. This represents the basis of a pathogenic process. The disease is actioned by the keratinocytes and T lymphocytes contributing to the development of the lesions.

Psoriasis, a common skin disorder, is an autoimmune condition characterized by aberrant innate and adaptive immune responses, in which T cells, keratinocytes, and dendritic cells play a central role. Psoriasis can be triggered by injury, infections, and mechanical stimulation, especially in patients with a genetic predisposition. In this context, many active immune substances, including AMPs, rapidly increase in concentration in the local skin and initiate the maturation and activation of dendritic cells and T cells with excessive interleukin (IL)-17 expression, resulting in the infiltration of immune cells and an inflammatory cascade. The levels of AMPs, are higher in skin lesions and/or sera of psoriasis patients than in those of healthy patients. The immunoregulatory functions of AMPs in psoriasis have been highlighted in recent decades and there are many studies to support these findings. AMPs activate keratinocytes and innate immune cells, including neutrophils, macrophages, and dendrite cells mainly in a pattern recognition receptor (PRR)dependent manner. The activation leads to neutrophil and macrophage recruitment, neutrophil extracellular trap formation, and dendritic cell maturation.[ In addition, AMPs modulate adaptive immune responses in psoriasis by directly interacting with T cells as autoantigens. Growing evidence supports the role of antimicrobial peptides and their receptors in the development of acne and psoriasis . It is important that we as clinicians have a good understanding of how the skin`s innate immune system functions so that we can effectively treat acne skin and inflammation. We are learning all the time about the impact antibiotics and medications have on the gut. We also need to understand the impact these medications have antimicrobial peptides and the affect that has on the immune system. The introduction in the cosmetic industry of pre biotic creams is very interesting, apart from assisting our skin`s own bacteria, there are further benefits to antimicrobial peptides that could be considered. There is growing concern with antimicrobial resistance occurring world wide with the uptake of anti-biotics yet, more and more we reach for anti-biotics as a quick fix to treat skin concerns and in most cases the end result is exacerbation of the condition. Antimicrobial peptides are an integral part of the first-line defence of a host against pathogens, long term anti-biotics can impact on the immune systems own defence.

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