Professional Beauty GCC - June 2019 by Professional Beauty GCC

FOR YOUR BEAUTY, HAIR AND SPA BUSINESS

‫للجامل والشعر والسبا‬

SESSION TO SALON

TOOLS OF THE TRADE EVERY CLIENT NEEDS

GROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT THE FUTURE OF MALE GROOMING

June 2019 | professionalbeauty.ae

MAKE-UP ARTIST’S GUIDE

PROFESSIONALS REVEAL THEIR TOP MAKE-UP HACKS

VINTAGE COLLECTION

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VINTAGE Trolley MLR Select VINTAGE Height, inclination, back & leg section elec. adjustable Large storage space in basement Optional: Smart-Thermo heating system, memory function (up to 4 positions), etc. Available in many wooden decors Soft upholstery possible (Fig.)

Three drawers High quality castors Optional with magnifying lamp Available in many wooden decors

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Contents

3 Ramadan Kareem! To mark the month of giving, your favourite brands are offering some exclusive discounts available to Professional Beauty readers only. Turn to page 45 to take advantage, available during this special month only. Thanks to Kylie Jenner, Huda and Charlotte Tilbury the make-up industry continues to boom, and with the biggest Sephora in the world now open to all beauty addicts in Dubai Mall – this region is certainly at the top when it comes to knowing beauty hacks. This month we dive in deeper to new make-up trends which are set to take the MUA sphere by storm, turn to page 20 where professionals provide their top tips for enhancing smaller lips and eyes. Every property needs to ensure that they are at there ‘a game’ when it comes to retail - historically, the revenue you generate from retail should be the equivalent of your monthly rent. We all know that selling can be a struggle, so this month we have highlighted the top tools you should have on retail display that can be up-sold to clients to ensure they have salon worthy hair all year a-round. We reveal more on page 44. After the huge success of this years awards, we can now reveal that the entries for our 2020 awards are now open! Visit www.professionalbeauty.ae/awards to enter. This year we have introduced three new categories: ‘Marketing Campaign of the Year’ ‘Salon Stylist of the Year’ and ‘Barbershop of the Year’. Turn to page 31 where we sit down with ‘Spa Leader of the Year’ award winner Christelle Besnier from Four Seasons.

Emma Baron

Editor |

@pro_beautygcc

Cover image: Shutterstock @emmatheeditor @pro_beautygcc

@PBGCC

facebook/PBGCC

Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae

Design & production: Image Creative Design www.imagecreativedesign.co.uk

Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC

t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53

Printing: Masar Printing and Publishing, Dubai-UAE - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com

Marketing Manager:

Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck

News editor: Emma Baron emma@professionalbeauty.ae

Emma Baron

www.bluetruck.ae

emma@professionalbeauty.ae

Contributors: Maria Dowling

Andrew Green

The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.

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Contents

Contents Regulars 7 News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty 17 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons 27 Ask the experts Advice on bikini waxing, lash extensions and recruitment 44 Product news Pick of the best tools of the trade plus exclusive Ramadan offers 67 Treatment news We share our experiences of new and innovative treatments, plus their business benefits

Hairdressers Journal 35 Clash Vibrant colours, textures and prints

Features 31 Winners spotlight One-on-one with 2019 Professional Beauty Award winners 33 Life of a stylist Natalie Kasses, creative director, Pastels Salon reveals her life in a day

On the cover 20 A makeup artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide Professionals give their makeup advice on enhancing smaller lips and eyes 40 Groom for improvement The future of male grooming 53 Session to salon

Tools of trade every client needs

Cover: Accessorize

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7 News

News Entries now open for the 2020 Professional Beauty GCC Awards Entries are now open for the third Professional Beauty GCC Awards which will take place in Dubai on Sunday 16th February 2020. Aimed to recognise individuals and businesses who have made a huge difference to the spa, beauty, hair and nails industry across the GCC. Entries are invited from spas, beauty salons, hair salons, nail salons plus employers, individuals who deserve recognition as world-class players. New categories for 2020 include: ‘Barbershop of the Year’ ‘Salon Stylist of the Year’ and ‘Marketing Campaign of the Year’. Platinum sponsor for the second year in the row is Dubai-based distributor EIDEAL. Haysam Eid, managing director of EIDEAL

comments: “We are delighted to be returning as Platinum Sponsor for the third awards. For many years Professional Beauty has been the go-to resource for salon and spa professionals and we have witnessed

first-hand the positive impact the awards has had in the market.” Entries close on 13th October 2019 and are free to enter. Please visit www.professionalbeauty.ae/ awards for more information.

Abu Dhabi Investment Authority in talks to purchase Nestlé Skincare division A group led private equity firm EQT Partners is poised to enter exclusive talks to purchase Nestlé’s skincare business. The unit could fetch as much as $10 billion in the sale, which is set

to be the largest for a European business so far this year, according to data compiled by Bloomberg. The skincare business was built out of a joint venture that Nestlé formed with L’Oreal SA in 1981.

Nestlé paid the French cosmetics maker more than $3 billion to buy the business out in 2014 and in the following months paid a further $1.4 billion to acquire a portfolio of skincare drugs from Valeant Pharmaceuticals. Focusing on the selling of dermalogical brands would dismantle a business that CEO, Mark Schneider’s predecessor, chairman Paul Bulcke, touted as a promising new avenue when he led the company. Schneider has instead been focusing on products such as coffee, water and pet food as Nestle works to spur sales and revamp growth. professionalbeauty.ae

NOT ONLY 3 DAYS, 365 DAYS COSMETICS & BEAUTY EXHIBITION! BEAUTYISTANBUL All-in-One Event, the first and only in the world: o2o (365 days online matchmaking) + B2B Meetings + Trade Fair. October 2-3-4, 2019

the exhibition covers packaging, ingredients, private label, hair, machinery, nail care, home care and baby care sectors as well with a special focus on bringing buyers from Africa, South America and South East Asia in addition to the local market and regional markets such as Europe, Balkans, CIS, Middle East, Central Asia and North Africa.

BEAUTYISTANBUL introduces its innovative approach in the events industry with the All-in-One event concept. In addition to the classic trade fair, the unique “o2o Platform” enables its exhibitors to conduct business with buyers prior to the exhibition date, commencing immediately upon registration. The exhibitors of BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019 have already started trading with over 3,190 buyers registered from 160 countries and there is still 6 months to go for the event. Waiting until the exhibition to make deals is over!

from beauty & cosmetics industry. The most selective buyers from various parts of the world, with a special focus on South and Central America, SubSaharan Africa and Southeast Asia, will be provided with travel incentives to be present at BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019. BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019, the international exhibition for cosmetics, beauty, hair, private label, packaging and ingredients will welcome its professional guests on October

We proudly declare that throughout 2018, the BEAUTYISTANBUL team showed exceptional performance and was promoted in 97 countries, 117 cities and 308 events like no other exhibition in the world! Proven by 20 years of experience, IPEKYOLU International Exhibitions team swiftly continues its work all around the globe to assemble the cosmetics & beauty industry in Istanbul. BEAUTYISTANBUL team which is consisted of 25 permanent and 181 temporary staff from 51 different nationalities contacted more than 134,000 industry professionals face-to-face in 2018, inviting them to the 2019 exhibition to benefit from the business opportunities that BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019 will provide.

The “o2o Platform” serves as a 365 days online matchmaking tool for the participants of BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019. Visitors gain access to the platform immediately upon completing the free online registration on www. beauty-istanbul.com to view exhibitor profiles, browse over 1000 products, send product enquiries, pre-arrange on site meetings and directly communicate through messages with exhibitors. BEAUTYISTANBUL also invests in a special hosted buyer program that will bring around 1,000 delicately selected buyers to the event from all over the world to conduct B2B meetings. To ensure the quality of the buyers, BEAUTYISTANBUL team connects with over 180 countries via phone calls, e-mails and face-to-face meetings onsite at over 300 events to invite the top importers, purchasers, decision-makers, professionals and managers with high purchasing power

2-3-4, 2019 in Istanbul. The trade fair will feature 400 exhibitors from 40 countries and over 8000 professional visitors from more than 140 countries and aims to be not only regional but a global cosmetics & beauty event. In addition to cosmetics and beauty,

Hope to see you at BEAUTYISTANBUL on October 2 – 3 – 4 2019 in Istanbul, one of the world’s most attractive cities!

www.beauty-istanbul.com T. +90 212 222 90 60

L’Oreal to bring acne app to Alibaba’s platforms L’Oreal is to launch a groundbreaking acne diagnosis tool in China on Alibaba Group platforms. The Effaclar Spotscan will make its debut on Alibaba’s Tmall and Taobao e-commerce apps in June, according to a press release from Alibaba Group. “L’Oreal Group has a vision of transforming into the champion of

beauty-tech companies. And China, as the important digitalisation and innovation hub for the L’Oreal Group, is the most powerful driving force,” said L’Oreal China CEO Stephanie Rinderknech. “Today, Effaclar Spotscan is a milestone for us to create a distruptive beauty experience with

open innovation, and bring a better life for people around the world.” Acne is said to be the most common skin condition among urban Chinese consumers, with 45 percent of women and 38 percent of men reporting acne as their main skin concern, according to figures from Mintel.

Minor Hotels Avani Ibn Battuta Dubai to open at the end of 2019 Minor Hotels has confirmed that it is set to open its doors for the Avani Ibn Battuta Dubai property at the end of 2019. The deal was agreed between Minor Hotels and the developer Nakheel at the beginning of 2017 and has now finalised the opening of the property in Dubai. The hotel chain currently operates 14 properties in the Middle East across four of its brands – Anantara, Avani, Oaks and Per Aquum. It also has a further pipelines in the region with news properties under development in Bahrain, Morocco, Tunisia as well as the United Arab Emirates. professionalbeauty.ae

News

Andrew Barge announced as new director of wellness at Six Senses Zighy Bay Six Senses Zighy Bay has appointed Andrew Barge as the new director of wellness, with responsibility for all spa, sleep and wellness programmes available at the luxury resort. With over 17 years of experience in wellness and nutrition, Barge promises a transforming and rejuvenating journey to guests, exercising his international

expertise with renowned hospitality and wellness brands. Barges’ role is the first of its kind for the Six Senses Group, overaching multiple key areas in the resort’s daily operations. From “eat with Six Senses” to “sleep with Six Senses”, Barge’s mission is to cultivate a wellness culture among guests and resort hosts as well, turning it into a daily lifestyle choice.

Coty drives online presence in Middle East through Jollychic Coty has announced a partnership with e-retailer Jollychic in a bid to drive its online presence in the Middle East. Aiming to provide a better shopping experience for customers, Coty is said to have developed online tutorials and content over the past few months. The collaboration will start with make-up brands Max Factor, Bourjois and Rimmel. Morgan Achiche, MEA e-commerce head of Coty comments: “Jollychic and Coty group will closely cooperate through a series of industry leading innovations, such as integrating e-commerce service with the unique brand strategy and optimising online-offline shopping experiences via big data and artificial intelligence.”

UK plastic straw and cotton bud ban coming into force in 2020 Plastic straws, stirrers and cotton buds will be banned in the UK from April 2020 in a move to reduce the damage of single-use plastics on the environment. Environmental secretary Michael Gove confirmed the ban today (May 22) after an open consultation, which demonstrated overwhelming public support for the move. Shops and supermarkets will not be allowed to sell the plastic items, while places such as bars, restaurants and spas cannot display plastic straws or hand them out. “Urgent and decisive action is needed to tackle plastic pollution

Gove said in his statement. “So, today I am taking action to turn the tide on plastic pollution, and ensure we leave our environment in a better state for future generations.” However, there will be some

plastic straws over the counter or online, while restaurants, pubs, bars and other businesses will be able to provide them on request, after many disabled groups highlighted how straws are essential for everyday life and that a total ban could lead to the risk of dehydration. This news comes after the long-awaited ban on the use of microbeads in cosmetic products came into force last year, and others think wet wipes could face the chop in the future as the Government continues with its 25-year Environment Plan. Plastic-stemmed cotton

and protect our environment. These items are often used for just a few minutes but take hundreds of years to break down, ending up in our seas and oceans and harming precious marine life,”

exemptions to ensure that those with medical needs or disabilities are able to continue to access plastic straws. For example, registered pharmacies will be allowed to sell

buds are in the top 10 most common marine litter items that get washed up on the world’s beaches, and many use plasticbased adhesives to secure the cotton tips.

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News

Clarins campaign to fight against plastic waste French beauty and skin care brand Clarins has partnered with charity Plastic Odyssey to help reduce ocean plastic pollution and alleviate poverty.

Plastic Odyssey is developing low-tech and open-source solutions to either turn plastic waste into a resource at a local scale or to reduce our global

plastic footprint. Clarins will support a new three year voyage undertaken by Plastic Odyssey to begin in 2020 and which will circumnavigate the globe to promote plastic recycling on a boat powered by plastic garbage. The route will take the boat along some of the most polluted coasts of the planet including Africa, South America and South-East Asia, with the aim of building small modular recycling plants that will meet different needs at each stopover. In the meantime, Plastic Odyssey will investigate alternatives to plastic and zero waste solutions aboard the vessel in order to build a greener society.

Professional Beauty launches new mystery shopping experience To help continue the growth of salons and spas within the UAE, Professional Beauty now offers a mystery shopping service, which will be delivered by a team of experts. The service includes a full review of the desired property, an extensive report will then be given benchmarking the property against others in the UAE, the report will also highlight areas of

improvement plus an hours consultation with the mystery shopper who will highlight and suggest areas of improvement. Once this has all been completed, the mystery shopper will pay a final visit upon request to evaluate the changes made. For more information visit www.professionalbeauty.ae/ mysteryshopping

Four Seasons launches new custom private jet Hospitality group Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts has revealed its plans for an all-new Four Seasons Private Jet. The aircraft that has 48 custom handcrafted seats, will take flight in early 2021. The A321LR aircraft that is part of the Airbus NEO family will replace the current aircraft that is being used by the hospitality group. Talking about the new aircraft, Christian Clerc, president, worldwide hotel operations, four seasons hotels and resorts said, “Building on the success of our Private Jet programme to date, our drive to continuously innovate and push the conventional limits of

opportunity to experience Four Seasons like never before” On board the flight, guests will “have the opportunity to meet and learn from Four Seasons master chefs and mixologists,

culture aficionados”, a statement by the company read. The private jet comes with an executive chef, concierge, and director of guest experience, physician, and four seasons-

travel has led to this new

wellness experts and arts and

trained in-flight crew. PB

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Sustainable earth friendly ingredients

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Inspired by the wisdom of traditional healers’ use of exotic scents and herbs with well-reputed healing properties, TheraNaka™ is a range exploding with earthy richness and renewed life, presenting the ultimate in relaxation and rejuvenation. TheraNaka™ is developed using only the finest natural ingredients available from nature while honouring the eco-system.

DISTRIBUTORS WANTED For more information contact: TheraNaka™ 00-27-21-886-6623 or 00-27-824-144-947. Info@lsenterprises.co.za – www.theranaka.co.za

INDUSTRY NEWS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE Four Seasons opens second hotel in India The Four Seasons Hotel Bengaluru at Embassy One has opened in India, featuring an 11-treatmentroom Infuse Spa designed by Yabu Pushelberg. The Four Seasons includes a 230-bedroom hotel and 105 Four Seasons Private Residences, the first of their kind in India. Set on a lower level alongside the pool, the spa includes a design aesthetic with light colours and a cool, aqua colour scheme. Signature treatments created especially for Infuse Spa including the coffee scrub, which harness the powers of locally grown coffee from nearby Coorg; a candle

massage; the flower at Four Seasons experience inspired by the hotel’s green setting in the Garden City. “It’s truly a milestone as we open our second hotel in Indian,” said Rainer Stempfer, Four Seasons President Hotel Operations – Asia

Pacific. “Together with our property in Mumbai, Four Seasons reflects the vibrancy and poise of modern India through design, experiences and personalised services to meet the needs of both travellers and local residents.”

UK Government launches aesthetics consumer safety campaign The latest development in the long-running aesthetic procedure regulation debate is a consumerfocused campaign from the Department of Health and Social Care (DHSC). The DHSC has produced a “cut out and keep” flyer of cosmetic procedure top tips and has funded information advertorials in UK consumer magazines including Heat, Grazia and Closer in a bid to encourage the public to take aesthetic procedures seriously and conduct thorough research before

undertaking a treatment. Health minister Jackie Doyle-Price explained the reasons behind the campaign: “Many people don’t think fully about the consequences –

both physical and mental – of having a cosmetic procedure. These are serious treatments, and you should think carefully before you leap in. “I’m particularly worried about people seeking treatments which are unsuitable for them, or who are not prepared for the mental health impact of an aesthetic change. But we also need people to do their homework on the company or individual carrying out the procedure – if a deal looks too good to be true, then don’t be afraid to walk away. The consequences of botched procedures can be dreadful.”

South Africa gears up for largest PMU event ever Will Anthony from the US and Ukrainian Tatyana Polivanova will present at the International Permanent Make-Up (PMU) Conference 2019, which takes place on 17 and 18 August in Pretoria, South Africa. Organised and hosted by PCASA (Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa) the president, Paula Becker comments: “We are

aiming to attract 150 delegates to this year’s conference, which will be the biggest PMU event South Africa has ever hosted and will focus on the latest industry trends. These include Smoky Lash Enhancement, pixel/ombre eyebrows, areola pigmentation, PRP & Plasma, colour correction, full lips and PMU.”

“We are delighted to have two acknowledged PMU artists and experts – Tatyana Polivanova and Will Anthony – as our guest speakers. Tatyana’s presentation will focus on how to achieve full lips, while Will is demonstrating his trademarked Smoky Lash Enhancement.” PB

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International News

NO PARABENS

EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR IN THE UAE WELLNESS UNITED INC. www.wellnessunited.com +971 4 451 6218

17 Business Trends

Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the easiest way to stay in the know

Insider salons April The popularity of lash treatments continues to grow in the GCC and extensions are still the most popular service according to the salons questioned this month. The more natural looking lash lifting, which offers another eyeenhancing option for clients, comes a close second. Professional nail competitions are a wonderful way to build staff morale and confidence and promote your business to clients. Yet less than half of you say that you have entered your therapists into such contests. With plenty of time to practice, why not think about giving your techs the chance to show off their talents in 2020 in competitions such as those held annually by Professional Beauty GCC.

On the spot

The month in numbers

of nail techs have entered a professional nail competition

20% use organic spray tan

Most popular lash service 1. Extensions 2.Tinting 3. Lash lifting 4. Party/strip lashes

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2018 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2019?

40%

SAME

WORSE

Busiest day for massage appointments

20%

1. Saturday 2. Friday

BETTER

3. Wednesday 4. All days

PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

77% professionalbeauty.ae

Business Trends

18 Insider, our exclusive roundup of spas in the GCC. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the easiest way to stay in the know

Insider spas April Though things may have been quieter during Ramadan, business was booming in April with spas reporting an average 87% rebooking rate and 83% average treatment room occupancy. The survey also showed that the weekend remains the most popular time for clients to book massages, indicating that there may be scope for running promotions to entice more people to come in mid-week for relaxing massage therapies. Though there is greater interest in using organic and vegan products in the UAE than ever before, just 20% of spas questioned say they use organic spray tans on clients â&#x20AC;&#x201C; despite the amount of professional products available.

On the spot

The month in numbers

of nail techs have entered a professional nail competition

20% use organic spray tan

Most popular lash service 1. Extensions 2.Tinting 3. Lash lifting 4. Party/strip lashes

professionalbeauty.ae

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN APRIL 2018 COMPARE WITH APRIL 2019?

40%

SAME

WORSE

Busiest day for massage appointments

60%

1. Saturday 2. Friday

BETTER

3. Wednesday 4. All days

PERCENTAGE OF CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

83%

Make-up

p u e k a m Professional HACKS

Pros provide their top tips for enhancing smaller lips and eyes with deftly applied make-up

ith so many opportunities to dress up and look their best for glam events in the GCC, clients demand and expectation for top class make-up services is sky high. It is therefore essential that your therapistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skills are continually on-point, enhanced with on-going training to keep them in the know about the latest products and trends in the industry. For an instant skills brush up, we have asked some of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top beauty companies for their best make-up hacks which your therapists can use to ensure your clients dazzle.>

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Rodial

Make-up

professionalbeauty.ae

Rodial

L ip service

Make-up

GETTING LIPPY – RODIAL ON LIP CONTOURING Lip contouring is a big trend at the moment. It can give lips definition and make them appear plumped and voluminous. Though its an eye product, the Rodial Eye Sculpt is the ideal product for contouring as it has a mousse formula which works to create a subtle shadow around the lips and the Cupid’s bow to make the lips appear fuller and more defined. To get a darker shadow, top up with the Rodial contour powder using a small bristle brush. For maximum drama, apply a more sheer foundation, such as the Rodial Skin Tint, all over the lips to remove the natural colour and outline. Contour the lips, and then apply a matte lip colour and lots of lip liner. The foundation will help to keep the lip colour in place, and will help to emphasise the lip.

PLUMP POUT – TIPS FROM PROVOC You can make small lips look bigger by over lining them but if you overdo it, it can look fake. It’s really important to find the right colour for lining and using the right textured lipstick or liner to boost a client’s pout ‘magically’ for a natural bluff! Provoc’s range of Nude semipermanent gel lip liner fillers are perfect for this. Their pigmented smooth gel texture sits on the lip like no other, giving the illusion of slightly bigger and perfectly shaped lips, you just have to find the closest colour that matches your clients’ lips and shape them the way you want discretely… amazing. Provoc Semi-permanent gel lip liner fillers also have a wide range of nude options to match various natural lip colours so there’s an option for all clients. One of my favourite’s is Provoc Matt’Adore- Provoc Semi-permanent gel lip liner filler in Retro Fashion. After priming the lips, pencil an X at the Cupid’s bow, and outline the lips. Connect the liner at the corners, fading towards the center. Apply the chosen lip shade and you highlight by applying a lipstick in a paler shade, dabbed onto the center of lips and blended out with your finger to create the illusion of a fuller pout.

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s e y e e Th have it

Pinky goat Rose

Make-up

COLOUR CORRECTION – KRYOLAN ON CONCEALING DARK UNDER EYE CIRCLES Mastering colour correction is fundamental for any professional MUA and without a good understanding of colour theory, you simply can't correct. To rectify discolouration, you should utilise shades from the opposite end of the colour wheel. Sounds simple? It is, however, there is a time and a place for colour correction and the real skill comes with the ability to recognise the subtleties of every face and be aware of every client’s unique skin tone. Take your time deciding on your dark circle correction strategy, a good rule-of-thumb is to match the strength of colour to how light or dark the skin tone is. If the skin is fair, you are likely to require the palest shades on your palette, medium to olive skin needs a darker version, and deeper skin tones will call for darker still. For example, pink may work well under the eyes for a pale skinned client, whereas a darker-skinned person would require a more orangey-peach hue; the same rule applies across all correction shades. Always remember, the skin around the eyes is thinner, and applying too much make-up can result in an ageing effect, so keep the layers fine and try to dilute the product to give a sheerer coverage. In fact, “less-is-more” should be your overall colour correction mantra. Too much corrector can have the opposite effect and can serve to draw attention to the very area you're attempting to conceal. Use a light touch and blend well.

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MAKING SMALL EYES POP – TIPS FROM PINKY GOAT Perfect liner – check! Stunning lips – check! Showstopping eyes – check? But don’t just stop at eyeshadow. Adding lashes to your gorgeous eye make-up really gives that finishing touch to make the eyes “pop”. For clients with small eyes, it can be daunting choosing a lash that truly helps the eyes stand out. First, check the eye shape. There are many different eye shapes, so take notice of the eye – does it droop downwards at the ends? Are eyelids hooded or perhaps there’s just no definition at the crease? Select a lash style that is lightweight and wispy to avoid a heavy lid that closes the eyes further. Pinky Goat’s AMY lash has a gorgeous curl that gives the illusion of more open eyes for clients who have a hooded shape. Meanwhile the Rose lash, with hairs that gradually become longer towards the ends, will create an eye-lifting effect for downturned eyes. For the best application, curl the natural lashes for some extra lift and apply a thin coat of mascara. Measure the lash against the eye and cut the band down to size if required – always make sure to cut the lash from the outer side, so as not to ruin the shape and design. Apply a tiny amount of lash adhesive along the band and wait 20 seconds for it to become tacky. Finally, place the band close to the natural lash line, pressing down the edges and there you have the perfect finish to eye make-up! PB

EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR IN THE GCC WELLNESS UNITED INC. www.wellnessunited.com +971 4 451 6218

Ask the Experts

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

How can I prevent folliculitis, especially when performing bikini waxes? Waxing, if done properly with products that are high in quality and performance, is a beauty treatment that can offer unparalleled smoothness, guaranteed comfort, and optimum results for a healthy and glowing skin. Folliculitis is an inflammation of the hair follicle which is an opening in the skin where the hair grows. It is more common post-shaving when the skin around the follicle is abraded with a razor. After waxing, the hair is removed from the follicle and this opening will become easily accessible to bacteria that cause infection if: • There is a lack of hygiene during waxing • There is improper assessment of the skin • The skin is thick, with coarse hair • There are pre-existing conditions such as previous folliculitis • Pre or post antibacterial waxing product is not used • There are large pores and oily skin with ingrown hair • There is pinpoint bleeding after waxing • There is an allergic reaction to post waxing products • Tight clothes are worn immediately after waxing In the bikini area, it is essential that the therapist performs a proper consultation and that the therapists not only use gloves, but keep hands clean by using hand sanitizer. The client’s skin should be cleansed and the waxing temperature should be checked to ensure it’s not too hot. Follow proper waxing technique: • No double dipping • Apply wax in growth direction

• Apply only a thin layer of wax • S tretch the skin and remove the strip fast in 40-degree angle • S trip-less wax is applied in longer strips and removed with hand parallel to the skin. The waxed area should also be flat to prevent bruising, unnecessary irritation or peeling of the skin. Avoid reapplying the wax over the same area if the skin is irritated and ensure that a post waxing soothing and antibacterial product is applied. At home, ensure that the client avoids shaving and regularly uses a body scrub to prevent ingrown hair.

Danica Horakova has been Cirepil’s UAE educator since 2016. She has 20 years’ experience in the beauty industry, in both the USA and Middle East.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae

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o2o ( 365 Days Online Matchmaking ) + B2B + Trade Fair

Concurrent Events

October 2 - 3 - 4, 2019

ICC - Congress Center, Taksim - Istanbul

www.beauty-istanbul.com Tel: +90 212 2229060

+90 533 4843030

info@beauty-istanbul.com

ne Eve -O The

Organizer

All-i n

for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair, Private Label, Packaging, Ingredients

t& firsnly ld ohe Wor in t

29 Ask the Experts

As well as great technique, what else do I need to be a successful lash technician? To be a successful lash technician you need to have passion for the art and a creative flare that you utilize with each client every single time they come to you. You should always be up to date with industry trends and continually seek to advance your skills through continuous professional development. You need to know the correct protocols and have the knowledge to provide your clients with all the information to maintain and keep their natural lashes healthy and strong at home. In addition, it is also essential to have business skills such as time management and conflict resolution. In terms of time management, you should ensure that your lash station is ready before each client arrives with products lined up order of use. It is also key to ensure that you have a full stock of products on hand before the treatment commences. Being able to handle complaints effectively is also an important skill. If your client is dissatisfied with her set of lashes, don’t take it personally. You can’t please everyone all of the time. Find out what the problem is and identify your client’s ideal solution before agreeing on a course of action that suits you both. Word of mouth and reputation is everything so it’s important that customer satisfaction levels are high.

Tanya Gist is Lash Perfect sales and training manager

Is it really important to include a wide choice of skincare treatments in my menu? Client retention is key for any salon or spa and providing a product range and treatment menu that covers all bases ensures that clients will want to revisit time and again. Clients love to see progress in their skin and an extensive treatment menu means you can address any skin concerns that they have in stages, introducing techniques and ingredients at a rate that won’t overload the skin or cause over-stimulation. Variety has the added benefit of keeping therapists engaged and enthused. There’s also the flexibility that comes with choice: whatever the clients’ skincare needs and individual beauty beliefs, you can accommodate them while staying true to your own ethos as a beauty professional. Our approach at QMS Medicosmetics is to tailor treatment menus based on location, as invariably the needs and desires of a client base will vary depending on where they live and their unique situation. For example, our inner-city clinics offer treatments that specifically seek to counteract the damaging impact of city living and pollution. For skincare, the focus is often on programmes, with each treatment taking the client up to the next stage in their skin’s progress. Of course, consumer trends come in cycles, and we work closely with salons and spas to help them curate their own treatment menus to ensure they’re offering the best choice possible to their clients. An extensive treatment menu provides the perfect opportunity to really sell the ethos and Rowan Hall-Farrise is an experienced facialist and unique offering of your clinic or international head trainer at spa, so make sure you’re not QMS Medicosmetics selling yourself short by failing to provide enough choice. PB

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae

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spotlight

Winners spotlight

WINNERS

This month we speak to ‘Spa Leader of the Year’ award winner on how it feels to win at the 2nd Professional Beauty GCC Awards NAME: Christelle Besnier JOB TITLE: Spa Director SPA NAME: Four Seasons CATEGORY WINNER: Spa Leader of the Year

Why did you decide to enter the ‘Spa Leader of the Year’ category?’

What does it take to be a good ‘Spa Leader’?

As well as encouragement from business partners,

Everyone agrees on the difference between leading and

I decided to enter to share light on the spas I am

managing a team. Lead by example to me is important

representing at Four Seasons.

and creates the connection and the trust with your team.

Celebrating 9 years with my

For instance, to be able to perform

company and 3 years in the GCC, I

receptionist’s tasks, help an

had been promoted last year to Spa

attendant in the facilities or assist a

Director for the 3 spas in the UAE. This is the first time such a role exists and I am very excited by this challenge to create synergies with my 3 teams as well as offering distinctive and complementary experience to our guests across the Emirates.

Leading by example to me is important and creates the connection and the trust with your team

Being a Senior, I am also assisting

therapist for stripping a treatment room are the actions that make a big difference on the floor and in the hearts of your team. Showing them support and encouraging them to share their ideas is key to get a motivated and proactive team.

few other Four Seasons properties in

A good business acumen is

the MEA region and strive to position Four Seasons spas

also recommended as well as retail/merchandising/

as the best in class.

marketing skills are also important to succeed.

Q2: How does it feel to win the award? Winning the ‘Spa leader of the Year’ award is the result of my spa journey since 3 years I am now in UAE. This is indeed an amazing feeling to be recognized by

What piece of advice would you give to a spa director who wants to enter this category for the 2020 awards?

my peers and this means so much for my team members!

I would say, don’t enter for the wall of fame but to share

Delivering an exceptional and intuitive service every day

light on your achievements and your team. Work on your

to each guest needs true passionate individuals and

area of development such as financials or marketing,

great professionals and I am fortunate to be surrounded

take this as an opportunity to reflect on your contribution

by such people.

and think about what’s next.

Q3: Did you do anything specifically to prepare yourself for entering this award?

What lies ahead for you now that you have won this award?

I did not do anything except to nurture my passion of

This award allows me to connect with more professionals

achieving more by sharing my vision with my teams and

in the region now and it positions myself as a recognised

brand partners.

expert in my field. I will continue my contributions for this

For the interview, I did not know what to expect so I

industry with passion and remain a true believer of a

decided to be myself and answer the questions with

global wellness approach in hospitality, so much to

sincerity.

achieve there still! PB professionalbeauty.ae

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33 Life of a Stylist

Life of a stylist... ONE-ON-ONE

Natalie with

Kasses creative director, Pastels Salon

Please tell us about your hairdressing journey, where did it all start? I guess it all really started before I was

What piece of advice would you give to a stylist who is looking to move to the UAE?

even born because I come from a family

First of all, make sure you look for a salon that offers

of hair stylists. My mother, grandfather

continuous education – we are so far away from the rest

and both maternal and paternal uncles

of the world, it is easy to become stale and fall out of the

were all in the industry. Officially, though I

habit of keeping up with the latest trends and

started working part-time in a little salon on a Saturday at

understand how to not only create them but adapt them

the age of 12 and I left school when I was 14 as I knew I

so they suit the client you have sitting in your chair.

wanted to work in the hair industry.

If you enjoy the creative style of hairdressing, choose a salon that has a strong artistic team.

As creative director what has been your vision whilst at Pastels?

and friends, so choose a workplace environment that

My vision has had two focal points: education and

has a positive and loving family vibe. It is very important

passion. I only want passionate stylists to work at the salon,

to feel you have a family and people to rely on when you

those who love hair and are keen to discover, create and

are far from home.

Finally when in Dubai you are away from your family

master the latest trends. Also, I want people who have a desire to be educated and who want to embrace learning and improve their knowledge and skill set. In Dubai, the hair industry can lack innovation and so I

What do you think are the biggest hair trends at the moment? This season for me is all about organic, natural hair. Lived

have created an artistic team who set out to push the

in textured messy hair is huge at the moment. The best

boundaries of what’s possible and interpret fashion’s

hairstyles at the moment are those that appear to be

mood and the current trends to create fresh new looks.

lived-in and which have a lot of texture. This trend has

Together we do lots of photoshoots and editorial work. It is

evolved from the beach-inspired styles that have proved

very important to me that every one of my stylists knows

popular over the past few years. This means that, for now,

that while we live in a country that is conservative, we

structured styles are far down on fashion’s radar- rather

don’t have to be conservative in our work.

it’s all about embracing your natural hair. Colour-wise, stylists and clients are embracing softer tones. It is all about muted colours - think peachy and beigey blondes. Nothing raw or bright in terms of colour is prevalent this season; instead it is all about the presence of shimmer in the colour.

Q5: What hair styling product could you not live without? I have naturally curly hair so I am a huge fan of L’Oreal Siren Waves. At the moment, I am also using Kerastase Elixir Oil and also the Elixir BB Cream to keep any frizz at bay, which is a huge problem in this region. Finally, I absolutely cannot live without my Dyson hair dryer and its diffuser. PB

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Fashion

H S A CL

Vibrant colours, prints and textu

res

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Fashion

â&#x20AC;&#x153;CLASH is a spring/summer campaign that delivers dynamic British youthfulness. It fuses colour and cuts together using modern techniques that evoke desirable, yet wearable hair. High end luxury fashion creates an up-tempo clash of strong, bold and identifiable vibrant colours, prints and textures.â&#x20AC;? Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global artistic ambassador

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Fashion

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Fashion

Hair: Mark Leeson at Mark Leeson Salons for Revlon Professional Make-up: Lans Nguyen-Grealis Styling: M&R Photography: Richard Miles

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TREATMENTS

Treatments

Groom for Improvement Men are spending more on beauty treatments than ever before. HJ Men investigates what it means for the men’s hairdressing and barbering industry professionalbeauty.ae

ale grooming is booming. Beauty treatments have gone from being a once neglected service to the norm amongst the male population. A number of surveys have been released over the past year, which demonstrate the popularity of pampering and male beauty treatments. In fact, men have now surpassed women on the amount they spend on beauty treatments per year. According to a survey by MINDBODY, a leading technology platform for the wellness services industry, gents are spending £3,366.35 annually, while

women are trailing behind on £3,059.91. Unsurprisingly, men are still spending more money on haircuts per year than any other service but treatments such as facials, manicures, massages and even scalp micro-pigmentation are also proving to be popular. In addition, another survey showed men are splashing the cash on male hair removal services. Mintel’s Shaving and Hair Removal UK 2018 report found that almost half of all men (46%) removed hair from their bodies. The good news is that all of these services can be added to a salon or barbershop as long as staff have the expertise and training.

THE BEAUTIFUL STATS

There’s a school of thought that argues MINDBODY’s The Real Price of economic insecurity and the stresses Beauty in the UK report names of daily life have changed the way men the below as the most popular function and how they want to appear. As and lucrative beauty treatments… competition for jobs becomes fierce and social media decides how we should look, 1 Haircuts (£329.77) men are searching for products and services 2 Massages (£214.77) to make them look and feel better. “Gone 3 Teeth whitening (£188.27) are the days when a man would go to the 4 Spa treatments (£185.91) pub to escape the daily stresses of life. Men 5 Hair styling (£184.46) are now heading to their barbers to relax,” 6 Waxing (£171) explains Georgie Wynes-Devlin, co-owner 7 Tanning (£168.27) of The Wild Hare in Tooting, London. 8 Pedicure (£167.61) However, Gina Conway, who recently 9 Manicure (£166.18) opened The Barber Shop at her West 10 Facial/peel (£165.84) London salon, believes it is the power of celebrity that has made male grooming appeal to the masses. “Celebrities such as waxes, which include the notorious ‘back, David Beckham and Zac Efron have made sac and crack’. But the latest man-scaping metro-sexuality mainstream. Keeping a trend isn’t about an “everything off ” tidy beard, having facials and getting waxed approach. Andy reports that a trim and a have become normalised.” tidy is regaining popularity. This is good It’s true that news for barbers and there is less stigma men’s hairdressers, as “Gone are the days around men getting it’s a savvy way to get when a man would go treatments. Carlie extra value from Firth, barber and to the pub to escape the your clippers. manager at Ruger in Andy firmly daily stresses of life. Men Lytham Saint Annes, believes barbers and are now heading to their adds: “I used to be a men’s hairdressers are barbers to relax.” beauty therapist at a in a prime position spa and I personally to tap into the hair Georgie Wynes-Devlin, saw a huge rise in removal market. founder, The Wild Hare men wanting beauty “Male clients know treatments. I knew and trust their stylist,” I had to jump on this trend before anyone he says. “Smaller services such as waxing else.” Inspired by this gap in the market, fingers, the back of the neck, beard lines, Carlie worked with Alan Beak to add nostrils, ears and eyebrows can easily be beauty treatments such as facials, massages, added to the end of a haircut or wet shave.” anti-ageing eye treatments and manicures When it comes to hair removal equipment, to the service menu at the second Ruger it can be relatively inexpensive to buy barbershop opening in Lytham. and won’t take up too much room. For example, you can buy mini heaters that sit Wax lyrical on styling stations. Plus, training can be a A male grooming discussion wouldn’t be short process. “Training in facial waxing complete without addressing the sticky can be completed in less than a day with subject of waxing. Andy Rouillard, men’s many specialist schools such as Axiom Wax waxing specialist and a Salon System Academy and Training Solutions offering educator believes exposure to hair removal standalone courses aimed specifically through social media, images in magazines at barbers and stylists with no previous and reality TV has seen the smooth trend waxing experience,” Andy explains. go mainstream. “Take the last season Waxing intimate areas is a different of Love Island – I don’t think the male ball game. A specialist course should be contestants had a solitary chest hair taken covering specific contra-indications, between them,” he points out. Andy cites aftercare, anatomy and physiology, back waxing as the most popular request, stretching techniques, hot wax application, followed by facial waxing (including client etiquette and personal safety, as well nostrils, ears and eyebrows) and intimate as tips on timing, pricing and advertising.

Hair today, gone tomorrow

It’s not just the body that is on the receiving end of hair-removal treatments. The number of men removing hair from their eyebrows has risen from 33% in 2016 to 42% in 2018. Meanwhile, a fifth of Brits reported removing hair from their noses in 2018. The Wild Hare has jumped on the trend, adding nose waxing to its menu last year. “Men are nervous about nose waxing at first but when they see other clients having the treatment they want to give it a go. Plus, they love to see the wax stick with the hair that’s removed on it,” adds Georgie. This visual element of hair removal is something that can’t be ignored. Inspired by the popularity of pimple-popping and in-grown hair removal videos on YouTube, The Wild Hare post waxing videos on their social media channels to help market their service.

Hair loss SOS

Scalp micro-pigmentation (SMP) is also growing in demand. A no-risk, guaranteed solution to hair loss, micro-pigmentation is a hairline tattoo administered by a trained SMP specialist. “SMP gives you the opportunity to earn between £500 and £2,000 per client,” explains Michael Koumis, owner of Scalpology, an SMP clinic that offers training courses. “It is great for a barbershop or salon because it provides extra revenue and increases client loyalty. You are changing a client’s life and boosting their confidence. They’ll be visiting you for two to four sessions to begin with and top-ups are advised every three to five years.” There are two options for people interested in Scalpology’s offering. You can become a scalp-referral centre (receiving a 10% referral fee for every client) or you can become trained youself.

GINA CONWAY’S THE BARBER SHOP

SHUTTERSTOCK

Why are men getting more beauty treatments?

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41 Treatments

TREATMENTS

TREATMENTS Creating a ‘boy zone’

When it comes to treatments such as facials, waxing and massages, there’s a debate about where men want to be slathered, waxed and oiled. Some argue that male-only spaces are preferred. “Male grooming can be an intimate experience so men want to spend their time and money in a place where they feel comfortable, such as a barbershop,” explains senior barber Dan Glass from barbering brand Murdock London. “Men want staff specially-trained to meet their grooming needs who can empathise with topics such as baldness, back hair and any uniquely male areas,” he states. RW Wolf, a brand with two barbershops in Cockfosters and Monument, has created a refined space for clients to get a classic wet shave, indulge in grooming treatments and experience modern styling. Founded by an enigmatic figure, known only as ‘The Wolf’, this disruptive brand has ambitions to become the go-to artisan barbers in London. “It’s not about creating a gendered, men-only space but a private space for our clients to relax,” states RW Wolf’s founder, who is rumoured to be a leading figure in the barbering industry. “We know that guys want to sink into a salon chair and escape from the world during their treatments.”

RW WOLF

Treatments

Bespoke packages

Another area that brands are embracing is personalisation. Clients have come to expect bespoke treatments and, in response Ruger in Lytham St Annes offers in-depth consultations. “We ask our clients about their grooming aims – do they want to look younger, more radiant or feel relaxed and we tailor treatments to suit them,” says Ruger’s Carlie. All the products that are used in-store are specially formulated by the brand. Ruger Skincare is a five-step routine (a cleanser, charcoal face mask, eye treatment, serum and moisturiser) which means the good work that happens in the barbershop can continue at home.

Similarly, at Gina Conway’s The Barber Shop, personalised skincare is a unique selling point. It offers everything from a quick barber cut to men’s nail services, hot towel shaves and facials. “Our personalised grooming service includes value-added Aveda rituals, all timed to suit the needs and schedules of a variety of different men and lifestyles,” Gina explains. Increasingly it’s not just the products that matter, it’s about how they are used and applied as well. For example, every grooming service at The Wild Hare is finished with a splash of the decadent Maison Martin Margiela Replica in Across Sands.

The beautiful conclusion

The incredibly sensory and almost old-fashioned barbering experiences that are happening in the likes of RW Wolf and The Wild Hare are undoubtedly having a resurgence across the UK and have become much more normalised in society. “A number of my clients have said they always wanted to try treatments like facials but didn’t feel comfortable walking into a salon or spa,” affirms Carlie. It’s good news that society, business and times are now changing. Whether it’s to relax, look good or a combination of both, male beauty treatments are no longer raising (perfectly plucked) eyebrows.

BEAUTY FOR BLOKES The professional male grooming brands and products to stock in your barbershop or salon

Blended with sweet almond, apricot kernel and avocado oils, as well as the brand’s signature ingredient hemp, 1922 by J.M. Keune Beard Balm makes beards feel soft and smell sweet.

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Anti-Aging Daily Serum is the fourth step in Ruger Skincare’s daily regime. It contains rosehip and jojoba seed oil to reduce pore size and help minimise fine lines and wrinkles.

Salon System Multiflex Lavender and Aloe Vera is a stripless hot wax which can be removed in almost any direction for less pain and a more comfortable client experience.

With argan oil to help nourish the skin, Aveda Men Pure-formance Dual-Action Aftershave is a 2-in-1 moisturiser that gives lightweight hydration and oil control while soothing shaved skin.

Murdock London Made in England Face Scrub contains two exfoliating agents, pumice and jojoba, which gently cleanse pores to reveal fresh, cleansed skin.

Product news

GHD Glide Brush Now available in the UAE, the brand new GHD Glide Brush tames and smooth’s dry hair effortlessly and quickly – and is the perfect ‘second day styling’ companion. Contact Wigo Professional: +971 (0) 4 222 1140

Session TO SALON

Dyson Airwrap Powered by the Dyson digital motor V9, the Dyson Airwrap styler harnesses an aerodynamic phenomemnon called the Coanda affect to attract and wrap hair around the barrel for you. Contact Dyson Middle East: +971 (0) 4 350 7880

Key tools of the trade which give your clients salon looking hair from the comfort of their own home

Babyliss Pro Titanium Expression Deep Waver Create deep, defined waves with the new Babylis Pro Titanium Deep Waver. The tool features extra large waving plates with a titanium ceramic finish which leaves hair glossy and full of volume. Contact Madi International: +971 (0) 429 4014

VIV by EIDEAL VIV is the latest high performance hair dryer from Dubai-based distributor EIDEAL. The interchangeable nozzles plus overheating protection allows styling to become hair damage free. Contact EIDEAL: +971 (0) 56 445 2369

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WAHL 100 Year Cordless Clipper To mark the 100 year anniversary, WAHL have launched a limited edition cordless clipper. This clipper comes with an all-metal housing with a heavy-duty, high impact solid vintage look and feel. Contact WAHL Middle East: info@wahl-mea.com

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THE

hotlist House of Maria Dowling 30% off on all professional Puri Alchemy and Yuthika products, this includes massage oils, body scrubs and body wraps. Contact House of Maria Dowling: +971 (0) 4 884 1555

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To mark the holy month of Ramadan some of the big biggest brands have exclusive offers to share

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Ramadan offers

Ask the Experts

FACE value This month we triedâ&#x20AC;Ś the imperial ritual hammam experience at Tips & Toes

The lowdown Tips & Toes is a one stop shop offering an array of treatments under one roof with 33 locations across the UAE. Upon visiting the award winning haven located in Al Barsha, I was Intrigued by the sliding door that lead to the serene waiting room and spa area, each room and corridor decorated to represent the beauty of Bali.

PB Says The Imperial Ritual opens the door to a mysterious and luxurious palace, where honey, sweet and precious nectar, wraps the body with its richness and softness. This ceremonial with magnificent fragrances and textures soothes the mind and leaves an incredibly silky, soothed and rejuvenated skin completely soft, silky smooth, rejuvenated and relaxes your whole being. Treatment steps: My therapist, Fatiha, explained the process before and during my service and informed me of the benefits I would gain during my in spa experience. The first step started with the initial Exfoliation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this was a pre scrub cleansing process using black soap

ingredients to remove the dead skin cells and prepare the skin for the treatment to penetrate deeply. The therapist then went on to use the loofah to remove the layers of dead skin. A honey almond exfoliation followed adding softening and soothing properties, a feeling of deeper penetration, moisturizing and healing benefits. A warm masque was added to my skin and my whole body was wrapped and covered with a towel, this helped penetrate the products deeper to detoxify and draw out impurities. Every single step of the treatment felt like a massage and complete bliss lasting for 90 minutes. This hammam treatment is recommended at least twice a month.

Business Benefits The imperial ritual hammam was a truly breathtaking experience. The small added personal touches combined with the journey of majestic fragrances produced complete serenity from start to finish. The Morjana products used throughout the treatment, Argan oil at the heart of the range, resulted in a smoother skin, brighter more radiant glow which remained for days after. PB

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