FOR YOUR BEAUTY, HAIR AND SPA BUSINESS
للجامل والشعر والسبا
BLUSH
SOFT YET STRIKING HAIR STYLES
LIFE OF A STYLIST ONE-ON-ONE WITH KIRSTY MUNRO, FOUNDER, LOCKS BY LOULOU May 2019 | professionalbeauty.ae
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BRIGHTER SHADE OF PALE SPRING/SUMMER NAIL TRENDS REVEALED 09/04/2019 17:00
NO PARABENS
EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR IN THE UAE WELLNESS UNITED INC. www.wellnessunited.com +971 4 451 6218
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Contents
3 Welcome to the May issue! Staying one step ahead of the trends should be a top priority amongst business owners; in this competitive market it is essential that you’re offering attracts new and repeating customers. On page 63 we highlight the best spring/summer collections newly launched in our market – perhaps now that Ramadan is just around the corner, now is your opportunity to re vamp your treatment menu and retail offering?! Inspired by SS19 catwalk trends, we reveal on page 22 the latest professional nail collections, which are set to be a huge this Summer. This includes an array of neon brights and pretty pastels – always a winner amongst clients who want to look perfectly polished and holiday-ready. Living the life of a stylist is full of its highs and lows – but you’re not alone. Our community of salon owners speak daily on a whatsapp group and also meet monthly to discuss challenges they face within our industry – if you are a salon owner and would like to be a part of the group please email emma@professionalbeauty.ae. On page 41, in our Life of a Stylist feature we speak to Locks by LouLou salon owner, Kirsty Munro about her exciting expansion plans now that they’ve opened their second location on Al Wasl Road. Our Hairdressers Journal section on page 45 continues to feature the latest haircuts and colours set to impact the hair market. This month we explore how to ignite your red colour offering to clients, plus we share collections that will hopefully leave you inspired to upsell to your clients should they want a summer transformation! After the success of the 2nd Professional Beauty Awards we sit down with Ruksher Malik ‘Business Director of the Year’ award winner and Georgina Hosny ‘Manager of the Year’ award winner where on page 37 they reveal what it takes to win.
Emma Baron
Editor |
@pro_beautygcc
Published by and (C) 2019 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0) 4 375 66 53 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC News editor: Emma Baron emma@professionalbeauty.ae
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The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances.
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CELEBRATE
100 YEARS WITH WAHL
AT THE WORLD TRADE CENTRE, HALL 8, F28 100 Years of Good Haircuts: The Wahl Clipper Story
After 100 years of innovation, Wahl and Moser continues to adapt and improve products along with advances in technology and consumer needs, come and visit us down at the World Trade Centre for Beauty World Middle East at Hall 8, F28. As the world leader in clipping and grooming appliances we look forward to showcasing some of our latest innovations and present how we will continue to lead the industry for the next century to come.
Connect with us on social media:
/ wahlgroomingmea I
/ wahl_mea
OfďŹ ce #123, Building #6EA I Dubai Airport Free Zone I Dubai I United Arab Emirates I www.wahlglobal.com I Email: info@wahl-mea.com
Regulars 7 News Openings, launches and the rest of the news from the world of spa, hair and beauty
Contents
May
Contents
5
18 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons
29 Ask the experts Advice on social media, wellness in hospitality and incentivising staff 63 Product news Pick of the best new spring/ summer collections 69 Treatment news We share our experiences of new and innovative treatments, plus their business benefits 72 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training
Features 33 Professional Beauty GCC show round up We look at the successes of the 2019 beauty show 35 Winners spotlight One-on-one with 2019 Professional Beauty award 42 What did salon owners say at this year’s Professional Beauty GCC? Maria Dowling reveals what she learnt when she took to the stage at this years Beauty Conferencee
Bio Sculpture
75 Product news Brands at the 2019 Professional Beauty GCC exhibition
On the cover 22 Brighter shade of pale Spring/summer nail trends revealed 41 Life of a stylist One-on-one with Kirsty Munro, founder, Locks by LouLou 58 Blush Soft yet striking hair styles
Hairdressers Journal 45 In the red Reigniting red colouring services 48 Fail to prepare Embracing the digital world
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News Nikki Beach Resort & Spa triumphs at London and Dubai Dubai based resort Nikki Beach shines at the World Spa & Wellness Awards in London and Professional Beauty GCC Awards in Dubai in February. The World Spa & Wellness Awards took place alongside the prestigious Professional Beauty Awards in London on February 27th - Nikki Beach walked away with its 2nd trophy of the month after winning ‘Resort Spa of the Year’ at the 2nd Professional Beauty GCC Awards, which took place on February 17th.
Robert Lindow, Director of Spa at Nikki Beach Resort comments: “Winning both awards feels extremely rewarding and fosters a sense of recognition and achievement. Winning is also a testament to our team’s unwavering effort, dedication and commitment and achieving this will continue to inspire us to focus on delivering exceptional levels of service and consistent guest centric experiences.”
Commenting on why its important to enter awards like these, Lindow states: “Competition motivates us to be the best that we can be, boosts innovation and drives us to continuously live up to and elevate industry standards. By entering both regional as well as international awards increases our visibility, awareness and credibility and solidifies its reputation in the market adding overall value to our business.” View the full winners list on page 35.
Elemis stages leadership reshuffle in wake of L’Occitane acquisition Following its recent acquisition by L’Occitane Group, Elemis has announced its expansion into new markets and an executive leadership reshuffle. Sean Harrington, CEO of Elemis has relocated to Asia to open the first Elemis Hong Kong office with the aim of building a substantial brand presence across the APAC market. Noella Gabriel will now be based in New York, assuming her role as President driving the expansion of Elemis’ US expansion. Meanwhile, it has been announced that Oriele Frank has now been promoted to Managing Director in the UK and will oversee the business in the home grown market.
Harrington comments: “We are thrilled to be entering a new and exciting phase of growth for Elemis. This next period will strengthen the continued growth and momentum behind our
timeless brand and remarkably transformative products. Together as a team, a brand and a family, we have incredible opportunity for success and we are more ready for it than ever!”
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Moisturising twice a day could prevent chronic diseases
A new study has found that regularly moisturising the skin could prevent the onset of age-related chronic diseases. Researchers at the University of California San Francisco (UCSF) set out to understand the role of
skin in age-related chronic disease, given that as the skin ages, its permeability increases, making it harder to keep water in and pathogens out. Different research has recently shown that the body’s response
News
9
to a reduction in skin moisture – the forming of small cracks in the skin that signal the release of cytokines into the blood supply – can lead to systematic inflammation and disease. While cytokines effectively help to repair cracks in younger skin, in older skin the body continually releases the inflammatory messengers because the skin is harder to heal. Once in the blood cytokines can travel around the body and cause inflammation. Speaking to Medical News Today, Dr Theodora Mauro, the lead author of the paper, said: “Until recently, the scientific community didn’t believe that skin could contribute to systemic inflammation and disease. But in the last five years, studies of psoriasis and dermatitis have shown that skin inflammation from these diseases likely increases the risk of heart disease.”
CND launches its first ever bridal collection CND has launched four bridal shades, available in both Shellac and Vinylux systems. Comprising of neutral, milky and semi-sheer tones, the Yes, I Do collection takes inspiration from the various details of a wedding. “Your wedding day is one of the most pivotal moments in a person’s life; our goal with this collection is not to stray too far from the elegant colour story synonymous with weddings but instead offer a modern take on those tones,” said CND co-funder and style director Jan Arnold. “This collection intertwines the beauty of classic bridal sophistication with the fresh
feeling of young romance, making it perfect for any bride.” The shades in the Yes, I Do
collection are White Wedding, Bouquet, Veiled and Forever Yours.
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IHG’s voco Dubai opens its doors in the Middle East The Intercontinental Hotel Group (IHG) has officially opened its latest hotel brand voco in Dubai. Situated on the Sheikh Zayed Road marks the first voco in the Middle East. Voco is inspired by Latin terminology, such as ‘invite’ and ‘come together’, and focuses on the informality and charm of an individual hotel. IHG’s managing director for India, Middle East and Africa, Pacal Gauvin, said voco’s first hotel in the Middle East would bring a vibrant and
dependable guest experience to the region. IHG added that voco Dubai was
the perfect destination given its proximity to attractions such as Dubai Mall and Burj Khalifa.
Kneipp therapy and floatation among 2019 hydrothermal trends Kneipp therapy is experiencing a 2019 reboot, as evidenced in new spa openings across North America and Europe. Billed as one of 2019’s top hydrothermal trends by the Global Wellness Institute (GWI), the 19th century practice of Kneipp therapy is once again growing in popularity as a self-administered treatment to stimulate blood circulation. As spa-goers look to traditional and natural wellness therapies to improve their health, hydrothermal treatments are gaining traction. In addition to Kneipp therapy, the GWI list highlights salt therapy, coed thermal bathing, floatation therapy and homebased hydrothermal elements. Spas will begin to move on from
“designer” salt rooms with pink-hued Himalayan salt brick walls as a focal point, instead choosing functional salt systems that offer real health benefits, such as halogenerators or nebulisers for salt inhalation. Coed thermal bathing areas are becoming more popular in the US, inspired by traditional European spa culture. The GWI cites the emergence of social spa culture among younger generations as the reason behind the trend. Another hydrothermal practice
enjoying renewed popularity is floatation therapy, with open tubs providing a solution to the claustrophobia problem of traditional closed tanks. Multisensory pools that combine floatation with underwater sounds and lights are also proving popular with millennial spa-goers seeking out ways to combat anxiety and the daily stresses of life. Finally, the GWI notes the democratisation of wellness real estate, with an increasing number of private residences becoming home to compact spa installations including modern design saunas and relaxation areas. GWI research shows the value of real estate developments in the world incorporating wellness elements is projected to grow from $134 billion in 2017 to $197b in 2022.
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Hyatt explores wellness in meetings for corporate clients Hyatt Hotels has launched an initiative to explore ways to enhance wellbeing for corporate customers. Created and led by Hyatt’s global head of wellbeing Mia Kyricos, the inaugural Wellbeing Ideation Labs will bring together wellness industry experts to discuss how to better meet wellness goals across Hyatt’s properties. The first in the Ideation Lab series saw spa and wellness names including Elisabeth Halfpapp, founding senior teacher trainer at Hyatt spa concept Exhale; and Simon Marxer, director of spa and wellbeing at Miraval Resorts, talk with representatives from Fortune 500 companies including Deloitte and American Airlines. The group discussed ways in which Hyatt can help improve meetings and events for corporate clients through health and wellness “meeting experience” concepts. Various ideas were trialled during the session; healthy food
and beverages were served and the group took regular breaks and performed brainstorming exercises using movement and mindfulness. “We believe wellbeing is the ultimate expression of our purpose – to care for people so they can be their best,” said Kyricos. “When it comes to our core meeting customers, we really do see them as an extension of our
Hyatt family, and therefore understand it is just as important to place their wellbeing at the heart of our business model as it is for our guests and colleagues.” With learnings from the first Wellbeing Ideation Lab, Hyatt plans on investing further in corporate wellbeing by infusing its “landmarks of wellbeing” – feel, fuel and function – into every area of service.
Amazon launches own skin care line
Amazon has announced the launch of its very own luxury skin care line - Belei. The range compromises of 12 products designed to help
consumers address common skin care concerns such as acne, fine lines and dull ness. “Our goal is to help customers spend less time and money
searching for the right skincare solutions,” said Kara Trousdale, Head of Beauty for Private Brands on Amazon.com. “We took a simple, no-nonsense approach when creating Belei, developing products with ingredients that are both proven to deliver results and also offer customers great value for the quality.” The range is on trend with the clean, cruelty free and sustainable beauty movements which bottles made from postconsumer recycled resin and recycable boxes. The products are fragrance, cruelty and paraben free.
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INDUSTRY NEWS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE California considers ban of all cosmetics containing cancer-causing ingredients New landmark legislation could result in the outright ban of all cosmetics in California that contain ingredients linked to cancer. State legislators introduced the bill, stating that products containing any of the 20 ingredients listed, such as asbestos, mercury, lead and formaldehyde, would be banned from the state. The bill has been supported by environmental groups that have long championed the ban of such chemicals, with the Environmental
Working Group stating, “this common-sense proposal is exactly what is needed to clean up the cosmetics aisle so that Californians can be assured their makeup, soap and shampoos don’t include harmful chemicals.”
International News
15
Banyan Tree to open first European hotel in Corfu The Banyan Tree are set to open their first European property this summer, an Angsanabranded hotel on the Greek island of Corfu. Angsana Corfu will include one of the largest spas in Corfu, with more than 50 treatments on the menu, as well as wellness programmes, fitness, vitality and healthy living.
The Angsana Spa will feature 16 treatment rooms and 5 outdoor spa
pavilions, with treatments that place special emphasis on the use of natural ingredients. The spa will feature 17 of Gharieni’s MLR wellness beds, as well as two Libra Edge Ks. The cliff-edge resort will feature 199 bedrooms with views of the Ionian Sea and surrounding mountainous landscape, and will be open year-round for guests looking for winter wellness breaks.
New virtual make-up try -on service launches in Asia A.S Watson and L’Oreal’s ModiFace are said to be driving retail innovation with the launch of a new virtual make-up try-on service #ColorMe across Asia. The partnership will see the virtual service launched on Watson’s mobile apps as of this month, with customers using ModiFace’s AR technology to
virtually try on over 300 make-up products. These include lipsticks, mascara, eyeshadow and foundation. Rolling out across L’Oreal Paris and Maybelline brands in the first stage of launch, users are also offered trend recommendations, given the ability to create and save their own looks,
as well as take photos and videos of their make-up. Products used can then be purchased via the app or in store. PB
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17 Insider
Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
Insider beauty, hair and nails March Though treatment room occupancy and rebooking rates are on the low side, only 20% of you say business is worse than this time last year. And as the summer approaches, there are many opportunities to drive treatment and retail sales. Some clients will turn to spray tanning services to get a golden glow that will enable them to wear summer fashions without damaging their skins in the harsh heat, and tanning treatments provide a great opportunity to boost retail revenue if you successfully promote products to help clients prolong the life of their tans. Most salons questioned say tan extending body lotion is their best selling retail product followed by exfoliator.
On the spot What do you think is the most important thing to include on a job description other than salary and responsibilities? 1. Information on the company culture 2. Details on the bonus or commission structure
The month in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2019?
5%
Think ingredients such as HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and MMA (methyl methacrylate monomers) should be banned in nail products?
20% WORSE
SAME
40%
3. Benefits 4. Career growth opportunities
40%
Which homecare product do you sell the most of to spray-tanning clients post-treatment?
BETTER
1. Tan extending body lotion 2 Exfoliator 3. Tan remover 4. Body oil with a tanenhancing shimmer
98
%
Use a bespoke hashtag for techs and clients posting “nailfies”on social media?
CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
52
%
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
56% professionalbeauty.ae
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Insider
18 Insider, our exclusive round-up of spas in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
Insider spa March The majority of spas say spa business is better year on year, reporting a client rebooking rate of 66% and a healthy treatment occupancy rate of 73%. Interestingly, when it comes to job adverts, most of you deem information on company culture as more important than details of commission structures, highlighting the importance placed on a good working spa environment and company ethos. When it comes to social media, most spas recognise the importance of boosting reach by using, and encouraging clients to use, a customised hastag for “nailfies”.
The month in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2019?
On the spot
90%
Use a bespoke hashtag for nail techs and clients posting “nailfies”on social media?
80% BETTER
20%
Which homecare product do you sell the most of to spraytanning clients post-treatment?
SAME
1. Tan extending body lotion 2. Body oil with a tanenhancing shimmer 3. Exfoliator 4. Tan remover
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
73%
CLIENTS WHO REBOOKED
66
%
What do you think is the most important thing to include on a job description other than salary and responsibilities? 1. Information on the company culture 2. Benefits 3. Career growth opportunities 4. Details on the bonus or commission structure
5%
5% Think ingredients such as HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and MMA (methyl methacrylate monomers) should be banned in nail products?
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Nai l:CO DE UA E
Bio Sculpture
Nail Trends
Bio Sculpture
20
Nai DE
l:CO E UA
Brighter shade of pale
Inspired by SS19 catwalk trends, the latest professional nail collections are awash with the neon brights and pretty pastels
T
hough we are undoubtedly fashion forward,
Stocking the most up-to-date nail polishes doesn’t
seasonal catwalk trends aren’t always relevant
just provide your clients with greater choice and show
in the GCC due to our unique climate. Yet the
that you have your finger on the pulse when it comes to
nail styles evident in all the spring/summer
global trends, it also allows you to be creative and drive
shows of 2019 are easily translatable.
both treatment and retail sales with seasonal displays.
Pops of orange, tangerine and coral jazzed
up muted clothes in many a designer collection, while, conversely, barely-there talons complemented patterned garments. Always a winner for spring and summer, sweetie
For this, take inspiration from the stunning department store displays you can find in places such as Dubai Mall. If your nail collection features orange hues, make a display featuring an alluring bowl of zesty fresh oranges. If you want to highlight pastel colours, why
shades of pastel pink, blue, lilac and green are also
not display the seasonal nail collection with pastel-
hot this season and give a modern twist with unusual
coloured bonbons which clients can help then
textures and nail art. There’s plenty for you to work with!
themselves to?
Yasmine Hosn from House of Enspa says: “We are
The more creative you can be, the more you will
seeing a lot of interest in nail art and glitters, as well
stand out from your competition. Seasonal colours
as two-tone nails. In terms of shades, it seems that
can also be used to give an up to date twist to nail
some are going towards minimalist manicures and
art, using products from your existing collection.
nudes, while others are gravitating towards vibrant
Read on to find out more about spring/summer
colours of reds, pinks and yellows. Metallic and
trends and find out how you can translate catwalk
shimmery finishes seem to be still going strong.”
styles to give your clients on-point talons.
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Jessica for Eudon Choi
Jessica for JJS Lee
Nail Trends
21
THE NEW NEUTRAL
Jessica for JJS Lee
Jessica for David Koma
Jessica for David Kom a
Well-groomed, barely-there nails featuring a round shape were ubiquitous at the SS19 fashion shows. There were a lot of classic, clean, natural, well-manicured nails on show, especially for the likes of Hermès, Ralph & Russo and Jasper Conran. When “neutral” nails did feature colour, muted, earthy tones were used, all with an on-trend matte finish. These tones look pretty on all skin tones but although this paired back look seems like an easy trend to translate from catwalk to salon, to recreate this look, clients will need healthy nails so ensure that you recommend good at homecare such as Ethos, the new natural nail care range by Bio Sculpture. Pledged to providing nail health, the ethical, eight product line up is ideal for both professional and at home use. Highlights include Volcanic Base, a nail hardener enriched by volcanic stone extract to give strength to soft nails, Vitamin Dose, which supplies nails with a combination of vitamins for rejuvenation and nourishment, and the Seaweed Calcium Base to promote flexibility and suppleness in hard, dry and brittle nails. >
RECREATE THE LOOK Meet the cool new neutrals of the season! Available from House of Enspa, Deborah Lipmann has created a limited-edition six-piece set of polishes appropriately named Shades of Cool. The collection features clean and sophisticated milky, bleached hues. These icy undertones and whitened finishes provide a fresh, sophisticated alternative to candy pastels. Without losing their uplifting vibrancy, the whitened cast in these fresh shades offers a contemporary, minimalist take on muted shades. The collection comes in the gel lab pro formula that is dual-patented with 10 active ingredients which help deliver health, shine and wear.
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October 2 - 3 - 4, 2019
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+90 533 4843030
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25/03/2019 17:09
e Jessica for Temperley. ©Jon Payn
Lauded as “an animated, life-affirming shade of orange, with golden undertones,” Living Coral, is the Pantone’s designated on-trend colour for 2019. This summery tone added splashes of colour to both clothing and accessories on the Temperley, Prabal Gurung and Gucci catwalks. Matching this sunny hue, pretty coral nails in various shades were evident throughout SS19 fashion weeks. While the various corals seen in the professional SS19 varnish launches will make clients’ nails a talking point when used alone, coral shades are also a great base for salon nail art giving manicures a playful expression. >
Jessica for Temperley. ©Jon Payne
SHADES OF ORANGE
Jessica for Eudon Cho i
Jessica for Temperley. ©Jon Payne
Nail Trends
23
RECREATE THE LOOK The orange-hued Soulmate from CND’s Sweet Escape spring collection, available from Creative Beauty Source, will help you bring the catwalk look to client’s nails. The collection aims to depict the brand’s core client who is perceived as “delicate but sharp, fresh but disruptive, gracious but formidable, pleasing but assertive”. It features four other colours that are both bold and beautiful such as the dusty pink Poetry, barely-there Antique, sandy Exquisite, and lilac pink Coquette. Nail:Code’s new Bloomtime collection features gorgeously bright
shades of neon yellow, purple, bright green as well as the bag on trend Living Coral, perfect getting the look on client’s nails.
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Artistic for Fydor Golan
Orly for Julien Macdonald
Nail Trends
24
PRETTY PASTELS WITH A TWIST
Morgan Taylor for Alice Archer
ald Orly for Julien Macdon
Orly for Julien Macdon
ald
Orly for Julien Macdonald
Ice cream colours that evoke a promise of sunshine were seen at Stella McCartney SS19, while frills and flounces, pastels and veils, rosettes and feathers graced the Marc Jacobs collection. Inspired by the ocean and its surrounding colours, the SS19 Fyodor Golan collection featured an aquatic-theme with pearly sea-inspired textures. To balance this, pastel, matte colours were painted on models’ nails. Even at the flamboyant Julien MacDonald show, pastel pink on models’ toes and a metallic rose-gold polish on fingers. In the GCC, we will see lots of pastels this summer, especially those with a matte finish, which will look fantastic in the bright sunshine. Nails can also be given a modern slant by as mixing up two colours on one nail or by using coloured tips, a French with a twist. Try painting a pastel tip instead of a white one, on all nails or just one signature nail. PB
RECREATE THE LOOK Pretty Gritty is the newest colour gel collection from Bio Sculpture, available from House of Enspa. It is a rough textured gel collection available in four candy coloured and ice-cream shades aptly named Candy Crust, Sugar Cane, Bonbon Brittle and Marshmallow Crunch. The gel can be applied in two thin layers and cured to a dry finish, with no topcoat needed, for an uber modern twist on the pastel look.
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Ask the Experts
27
ask
the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business
How can I best use Instagram to promote my business? From discussions with my fellow professionals, I have found that we all seem to have the same concern with social media, and that is how and when to use it. I now have the philosophy “It’s a work in progress”. We learn what works, and what doesn’t, through experience of posting. Instagram has become an integral part of how our business presents itself to our end consumer and it has become the best way of us promoting ourselves in business. The first thing we really looked at with our Instagram page was the quality of the pictures, we then went out a bought a salon phone that had amazing resolution. The second thing we looked at was the background for our pictures, we found taking photos in a consistent place in the salon looked better on our page. For before and after pictures, using the Portrait feature on your camera gives you some of the best looking images that focus completely on the hair and nothing else. Always ensure balance when centering the image, make sure you don’t cut off the top of the head or the base of the hair. Your before picture should also be as important as the after image because the client can relate to it more. When taking your after shot, its important to have the right natural light especially if your wanting to show colour off. We invested in a light ring that comes in handy in the evening time, when you lose natural light.
Make sure the hair has balance with your styling on your after pic and all the baby fine hairs are smoothed out, as it is the finer details that will change an ordinary look into something very polished and sharp looking. Never filter your after pictures, it gives the end consumer an unrealistic perspective on what is possible with your colouring tools. Finally, when posting your before and after shots, always place your before picture first because when you move down the page, it looks so much nicer on your scroll. >
Kelly Cyndrowski is salon owner and creative director of award-winning Salon Ink based in Dubai.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae professionalbeauty.ae
027-029 PBGCC APR19 Ask the Experts.indd 27
09/04/2019 15:46
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Ask the Experts
29
How will spa change with the huge increase of wellness in hospitality? Our industry is moving faster than the speed of light, so change is inevitable. Wellness is no longer just
concept encompassing sleeping,
Other than bonuses, how can I incentivize and reward my staff?
eating and moving well in a healthy
I believe it’s important to inspire people to go beyond their job description
environment. The icing on the cake is
and push themselves beyond their remit so their business will excel. This
then often an amazing spa treatment.
means that there should be rewards for those who meet their goals. For
about spa treatments in an isolated part of the hotel, it’s part of a wider
Spas will continue to be an
instance, at Pastels, we have a formal appraisal system in place which
important part of wellness in
allows us to identify what a staff member’s strengths are, what areas require
hospitality going forward. However,
improvement, and how support can be implemented so individuals can grow
I think we will see some wellness
within the Pastels’ team. We also reward staff members who have achieved
hotels appear that don’t have a spa
their goals. Those who reach their target sales figures are gifted monthly
but are still 100% committed to
prizes and for the four staff members whom achieve the best annual figures,
giving the guest a great experience
we secure a place for them on the L’Oreal International trip. Those who show
that aids their wellbeing, with the
brilliance at customer service are openly praised and rewarded with prizes
possibility of treatments in a more
such as an overnight stay in a 5-star hotel with a friend or family member,
creative way. The spa manager or
or perhaps a spa experience.
director’s role will also change, with
Another option is to offer training and Continuous Professional Development
new responsibilities including having
(CPD) opportunities. In my experience, people are motivated by the
to run front-of-house wellness
opportunity to grow and develop their skillset and this has been fundamental
operations as well as be a vital part of
to staff retention rates at Pastels. When I undertook the EIDEAL-Santi
back-of-house wellness operations,
Leadership Programme, I ensured that all of my three female managers
making it a much more multifaceted
were able to participate in the programme alongside me, furthering their
job. If you are to deliver wellness,
knowledge and enhancing their skillset. Additionally, my general manager
your staff must be part of that
developed the Pastels’ Junior Stylist training programme and this has seen
movement. It’s not only about
our junior stylists develop their skills and grow their client lists within the
providing access to a gym or a yearly
salon. Every year we have a Junior Stylists’ Show whereby they present
health assessment either, it is about
models to the team to showcase their new skills and those who have really
delivering meaningful solutions,
performed well are recognised and their achievements celebrated.
education and interaction on all
I also invest in flying in industry leaders such as Jack Howard (who was recently
topics of wellness, such as sleep,
named the ambassador for Schwarzkopf) to offer training and education my
nutrition, movement and stress.
senior styling team. This has proved invaluable as I now have several members of our artistic team who are Professional Artists and Ambassadors with L’Oreal Middle East and educate salons in the GCC region. Due to the fantastic
Anna Bjurstam is vice president of spa and wellness at Six Senses and has spoken at the World Spa & Wellness Convention Dubai.
up-to-date knowledge and skills that the stylists have gained, they have been able to participate in illustrious events such as the Dolce and Gabbana show and big-name fashion shows. This is hugely motivating for
Ruksher Malik is co-founder of the successful Pastels Salon chain.
talented and ambitious stylists. PB
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to emma@professionalbeauty.ae professionalbeauty.ae
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TAKING WELLNESS TO THE NEXT LEVEL
CONGRATULATIONS TO
Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Category: Resort Spa of the year Sponsored by Gharieni
www.gharieni.com
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Professional Beauty GCC
31
THE heart
OF THE INDUSTRY
unites at Professional
Beauty GCC
The 5th PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GCC exhibition was hailed a huge success - here are the show highlights... 5,067 professionals gathered together at the 5th Professional Beauty GCC expo held at the brand new high-profile venue, Festival Arena on February 17 & 18. Those who attended took advantage of discovering the latest products, brands and trends set to shape the beauty, hair, spa, nails, make-up and aesthetic industry for 2019. An increase in the number of decision makers who attended the two-day expo has cemented the show’s reputation as the go-to event in the GCC for serious buyers. Fadi Sawaya, founder of Sawaya International commented: “Professional Beauty GCC, this year, was Professional in beauty and style. Expectations were topped with new incoming ideas with pulled traffic, new clients and overall a positive business energy at this years event. I was extremely happy to be involved in supporting both sides of what Professional Beauty GCC has to offer and will be exhibiting again with my PROVOC brand but also expanding my reach internationally by exhibiting at Professional Beauty London and South Africa next year!” Platinum Sponsor for the show Haysam Eid, founder, EIDEAL also comments: “Professional Beauty GCC 2019 was a great experience for us as a brand. With
each year that passes, the niche exhibition keeps on increasing the number of key decision makers in the region. Bringing the community together is something that EIDEAL has always believed in and worked on, which is why we were delighted to confirm our Platinum sponsor status. Thanks to the Professional Beauty Exhibition and Awards we had a perfect opportunity to showcase our array of brands and find new outlets for them.” This years show offered even more features than ever before, including two live stages where the biggest international acts were flown to reveal and perform latest trends in beauty and hair. This included global educator for Label.M, Max Lamparter. Ahmad Saad, Marketing Manager, Beautique Cosmetics comments on his experience: “Another mega-successful show for beauty professionals in the region which has been growing bigger and better each year. We at Beautique Cosmetics had a lot to celebrate from presenting new brands to launching our label.m distribution in the UAE in the presence of the brand’s International Educator, Max Lamparter, and there’s no doubt that Professional Beauty GCC 2019 was the right platform to do so!” PB
Professional Beauty 2020 will return to Festival Arena, Dubai on February 16 & 17 2020 – pre register your interest by visiting www.professionalbeauty.ae
professionalbeauty.ae
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Professional Beauty GCC
Award Winners
WITH THANKS TO OUR PLATINUM SPONSOR
Professional Beauty GCC Awards
33
The 2nd PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GCC Awards took place on Sunday 17th February at the Intercontinental, Festival City, Dubai. We can now reveal the 2019 award winners are… Beauty Salon of the Year The Nail Spa, Mall of Emirates, Dubai Sponsored by:
Make-Up Artist of the Year Jovana Knezevic Sponsored by:
Bridal Hairstylist of the Year Saima Saqib, Be Bar Blow Dry Bar, Dubai Sponsored by:
Manager of the Year Georgina Hosny, AVEDA, Dubai Sponsored by:
Business Director of the Year Ruksher Malik, Pastels Salon, Dubai Sponsored by:
Men’s Hairdresser of the Year Ossama Basher, The Loft Fifth Avenue, Dubai Sponsored by:
City Hotel Spa of the Year Six Senses Spa, Symphony Hotel, Kuwait Sponsored by:
Nail Technician of the Year Erica Balbin Miranda, Cocoon Nail Spa, Dubai Sponsored by:
Colour Technician of the Year Rachel Dawson, Tara Rose Salons, Abu Dhabi Sponsored by:
Resort Spa of the Year Nikki Spa, Nikki Beach Hotel & Resort Sponsored by:
Day Spa of the Year Cleopatras Spa & Wellness, Wafi, Dubai Sponsored by:
Spa Leader of the Year Christelle Besnier, Four Seasons, Dubai Sponsored by:
Hair & Beauty Salon of the Year AVEDA Flagship Salon, Dubai Sponsored by:
Team of the Year Mariadowling Salon Sponsored by:
Hair Salon of the Year Salon INK, Dubai Sponsored by:
Therapist of the Year Jacinta Davide Ceotzee Sponsored by:
Congratulations to all our winners – entries for our 2020 awards will open next month with the winner to be announced at another black-tie gala dinner on Sunday 16th February 2020!
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CONGRATULATIONS Salon Ink
Hair Salon of the Year
Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 56 445 2369 Untitled-66 1
www.eideal.com
Beirut, Lebanon Tel: +971 70 366 007 25/03/2019 17:16
35 Professional Beauty GCC Awards
Winners
SPOTLIGHT
This month we speak to ‘BUSINESS DIRECTOR OF THE YEAR’ and ‘MANAGER OF THE YEAR’ award winners on how it feels to win at the 2nd PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GCC AWARDS
Name: Ruksher Malik Job title: Co-founder Salon name: Pastels Category winner: Business Director of the Year Why did you enter the ‘Business Director of the Year’ category?
channel between us. My managers are passionate and
The Professional Beauty awards are very prestigious and are
invited to put forward opinions and ideas. We meet
recognised throughout the world as awarding the absolute
twice a month formally and together; we review the
best in the industry. In the past couple of years, I have focused
salon and staff targets. From this, we can identify
a lot on self-improvement and how I could enhance my
performance levels of every individual and find
business skill-set, something that with my stylist background
a way to motivate staff and boost those that need
committed to my business, are always involved and
I had never done before. Focussing on the logistical and
encouragement. This gives my managers a sense
business side of the salon has meant I have undertaken
of ownership, which motivates them in their work.
a lot of education. This has included the EIDEAL-Santi
I now spend the bulk of my time in the salon
Business Leadership programme, seminars run by Nergish
implanting, working on and putting systems and
Waida Austin and the Redken step-up course, which was
processes in place to ensure the brand grows. I focus
billed as how to transform your clientele into “high ticket
on how we can improve the salon business to ensure
clients” to enhance revenue.
it remains profitable and that its reputation for brilliance in terms of technical expertise, customer
How does it feel to win the award?
service and as a place to work is maintained. For
Absolutely amazing – it’s a real honour. I am so proud to have
instance, I developed a handbook called ‘The 8K
won and to have had all my efforts and hard work recognised
Business Boost - The Pastels’ Client Journey’, the aim
feels wonderful and makes me want to continue on this
of which was to educate staff about the “Michelin-
business-oriented path I have started.
Star” standards that were needed across the entire company to ensure a flawless client experience.
What does it take to be a good ‘Business Director’? You have to lead by example so that all of your staff members are clear on how they should operate and work both individually and as a team. Secondly and very importantly, you have to be
What piece of advice would you give to a salon owner who wants to enter this category for the 2020 awards? Make sure you are doing what it takes to be a good
knowledgeable about every single aspect of the business and
Business Director. Educate yourself on any areas of
what it needs to achieve success. Increasingly, my role is to
the business that you do not already understand
work behind the scenes and focus on the management aspect
completely. Undertake a thorough analysis of the
of the business. In general, I leave the day-to-day running to my
business to identify strengths and weaknesses. Put
managers and I allow them to make autonomous decisions that
into place new initiatives to improve any areas of
will improve their respective salons but I am always on hand if
weakness and to improve on all standards. It is crucial
they need a soundboard or support. I am very fortunate in that
to systemise the business and ensure you have
my managers and I are a team and there is a continuous open
procedures for all of its specific aspects in place. >
professionalbeauty.ae
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CONGRATULATIONS Ruksher Malik
Business Director of the Year
Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 56 445 2369
www.eideal.com Untitled-67 1
Beirut, Lebanon Tel: +971 70 366 007
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Professional Beauty GCC Awards
37
Name: Georgina Hosny Job title: Salon Manager Salon name: AVEDA Flagship Store, Galleria Mall, Dubai Category winner: Manager of the Year Why did you decide to enter the ‘Manager of the Year’ category?’ I decided to enter “manager of the year” after reflecting on my own journey since moving to the Middle East. It has been a rollercoaster of learnings but when looking back I can see how much I have learned, grown and not least achieved and, as much as it was really out of my comfort zone to enter, I decided to do it. It was scary but it felt right. I knew I would learn something on the journey and I did!
How does it feel to win the award? Completly surreal. I feel very proud of what I have achieved and to be recognized by Professional beauty is not just and honor and also highly motivating.
been on, and how my input as manager at AVEDA has resulted in the high performing culture we are
Did you do anything specifically to prepare yourself for entering this award?
known to have.
I read through all my one-to-one’s and appraisals to
What does it take to be a good ‘Manager’?
remind myself of everything I have achieved so far. In my
To create a culture of trust. When you have trust you
interview I really wanted to emphasise the journey I have
are able to be transparent and help people be successful. My job as a manager is to ensure the team
WANT TO BE A 2020 AWARD WINNER?
is focused on what is important to the business which
Entries will be open on May 1st 2019 and will close
good leader encourages their employees to never
on September 20th.
stop growing and help them understand how much
Visit www.professionalbeauty.ae to find out more
they can influence job satisfaction and fulfillment.
in return will help them achieve their own goals. A
or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
What piece of advice would you give to a salon manager who wants to enter this category for the 2020 awards? Just do it. Go for it, you have nothing to lose. Inspire and lead by stepping out of your comfort zone. Allow yourself to be vulnerable and nervous during the process but enjoy the journey as you will discover so much about yourself and your team during the process.
What lies ahead for you now that you have won this award? My priorites are always around people, guests and our partners. My top 3 priorities right now are to: 1. Grow my direct reports of which I have 4 2. Review how we can improve our guest journey with a omni channel mindset 3. Build and expand our AVEDA partnerships in the UAE PB
professionalbeauty.ae
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Interview
39
Life of a stylist KIRSTY MUNRO, founder of Locks by LouLou Hair & Beauty Salon, Dubai Q1: Please tell us about your hairdressing journey, where did it all start? From a young age, my dream was always to be a hairdresser. I used to highlight my mums hair with a cap when I was 13!! I then enrolled into the London College of Fashion where I studied in hair, make up and fashion for styling and editorial work. After this I proceeded to work on luxury cruise ships travelling the world but still hairdressing. I then worked for a high-end London salons and worked in New York for a year on showcases. I then was offered a position in Dubai were my next journey begun!
Q2: What was your vision when setting up the first Locks By Lou Lou branch in JLT? I wanted to bring high-end hairdressing from London to Dubai, with the glamour verses urban idea.
Q3: What piece of advice would you give to a new owner who is looking to open a salon in Dubai? Research – know your business, have a concept, and get the location spot on. Start small, and then spread your wings. I’m very money savvy, and when I started my business I had no sponsor and therefore had to start
from scratch – I’d advise anyone starting out to have this support.
Q4: What challenges do you face in the market? A challenge I would say is you constantly have to think of something new and exciting. In this saturated market it’s important to be at the top of your game, so thinking of new things constantly I’d say is one of our biggest challenges – but, it’s also very satisfying too!
Q5: How does running a salon in the UK compare to Dubai? There are a lot more rules and regulations here in Dubai (better and worse) and these rules are constantly evolving and changing. I love working with a huge mix of cultures – this is one thing I love about Dubai!
Q6: What plans do you have on the horizon for Locks by Lou Lou? We are very excited to announce that we have the launch of our flagship salon opening in June! Situated on Al Wasl Road, this seven bedroom villa will be offering even more hair and beauty treatments – something we envision as your one stop glamour shop where I’m bringing hairstylists over from the UK! Watch this space! PB
professionalbeauty.ae
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The fifth Professional Beauty GCC 2019 expo organized its second Awards show night which was held on the 17th of February 2019 in Dubai. Provoc was happy to award Makeup Artist of the Year to its winner JOVANA KNEZEVIC; a talented and lively makeup artist.
Congratulations!
VS4, Roda Al Murooj Complex, Sheikh Zayed Rd, Dubai, UAE info@Sawaya-Intl.com | www.sawaya-Intl.com
Nail Trends
41
WHAT DID
salon owners SAY AT THIS YEAR’S
Professional Beauty GCC?
Maria Dowling reveals what she learnt when she took to the stage at this years Beauty Conference This year, myself and five other salon owners took to the stage to discuss our 2018 experiences and expectations for 2019. The panel included: Jane Whittington, GM, The Loft Fifth Avenue; Galina Spierling, owner, Galina’s Beauty Salon; Kelly Cyndowski, co-founder, Salon INK, Andrea Lindeyer, Co-Founder of Be Bar Blow Dry Bar and Mette Haxthausen, regional director, AVEDA. For those who weren’t able to attend, here are my top five discoveries from the panel discussions this year:
Are we recruiting? In short, yes. Most salons are recruiting staff and will continue to do so in 2019. CV’s continue to come in thick and fast and fortunately the quality is really high. Some of our salons also have expansion plans this year and as a result effective recruitment is super important to them. A key point that we all agreed on is that Instagram is key when checking out your applicant. Most good colourists have an up to date Instagram showing their work so we can get a feel for their skills and abilities.
Pricing has risen (but so have costs) Last year after the introduction of VAT none of the salon owners felt they could raise their prices. So this year it was inevitable that most of us increased our prices slightly due to rising overheads and supplier costs.
We need to cater to all budgets In a challenging economy, many of our clients are watching their dirhams. To make sure we retain all levels of client, from budget through to luxury, we agree that it is important to have
different price levels depending on the experience of the stylist. Some of our salons found that junior staff became super busy which is indicative of the spending power of the clients at the moment. In essence, we now have to make it work to suit the client’s budget if we want to retain them.
Suppliers are working harder The brands we stock in the salon are working harder to maintain a good relationship and motivate their salons to sell more products. They are now offering better terms and more value-added services such as training. Clients are so informed today that we need to understand the product and know the ranges inside and out if we are to make a professional recommendation to our clients.
Social media is still king All salons agreed that social media is one of the most important sales tools in today’s beauty industry. New clients need to see the standard of our work and regular clients want to feel a part of the salon ‘family’ by following the stories and workings of the salon. Has social media helped our business? A definitive yes from all salons. BeBar for example invested heavily in Instagram in 2018, increasing in-salon signage and producing professionally photographed imagery on a regular basis. Yet it is still something we are all learning about and trying to improve upon every day. PB
Maria Dowling is creative director at mariadowling salon and has been a colourist for more than 20 years. For more information call: +971 4 345 4225 Follow mariadowling on Instagram @mariadowlingdubai
professionalbeauty.ae
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09/04/2019 16:04
Congratulation to our Team of the Year Winner
mariadowling Salon
Matrix is among the world’s premier and fastest growing commercial fitness brands.
Johnson Health Tech ME info@uae.johnsonfitness.com, www.johnsonfitness.com
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Colour
43
Reignite the red services you offer in the salon to attract both natural and red-transitioning clients
PAUL MITCHELL
IN THE RED professionalbeauty.ae
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Colour
Which shade?
45
Cool skin tones
Both
Warm skin tones
Brick red, cherry, crimson, mahogany red, raspberry, violet red, wine red, blue red and strong red
Pillar-box red
Apricot, copper, copper-red, terracotta, pumpkin spice, poppy, ruby and scarlet
K
ate Bosworth, Sophie Turner and even small screen stars such as Stacey Dooley from Strictly Come Dancing, have all been on a red-venture in recent times and have done wonders for bringing both natural and dyed redheads into a new era. “Red hair used to be viewed as a bold colour choice and only worn by those who wanted to be seen and heard,” explains Kirsten Maine, director of Live True London. “This has shifted as people are realising that red hair brightens up facial features, offers a multi-dimensional look and with the right shade it can flatter most skin tones.” There has been a 100% increase in the search term ‘ginger balayage’, while ‘red balayage’ is also proving popular with 9,900 searches on average each month, according to Google Trends 2019. In response, there has been a spike in the number of colour houses bringing out red-centric launches and services. Return of the red The new influx of red colour shades are broad, ranging from the brightest pillar-box red to a more muted rouge. “Red can absolutely be a soft and subtle colour choice in the same way that blondes can be bold or bright, delicate or punchy,” Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK and Ireland technical director points out. Red hair is proving to be a hit on Instagram too. There were 14.6 million posts with #redhair at last count. “Bright shades and cinnamon tones have been popular on social media and there’s nothing more stunning than a redhead with glossy locks,” confirms Neil Barton, Goldwell UK guest artist. What to ask yourself Are you catering to your existing red clientele? Could you be doing
more to tempt clients to ‘go red’ and The personal touch could you attract redhead clients There are so many shade variations so from other salons? “Sometimes understanding your client’s personality it can feel like red shades are and style is crucial. “We always neglected from a marketing point of advise our newly red clients to think view, as advertising doesn’t always about changing their make-up and feature flame-haired beauties,” wardrobe as some colours may not points out Heffy Wheeler, OSMO work with their new hair,” explains brand ambassador and owner of Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional HX Hair. Look at the services you global artistic ambassador. This are promoting in year Revlon salon and on social has heralded a media – what colour “Brights shades and ‘Redvolution’ hair do the model with new red and cinnamon tones [...] images you use in copper shades by there’s nothing more your marketing Revlonissimo Color have and is your stunning than a redhead Sublime which retail offering redmakes it simple with glossy locks” friendly? to cherry pick the Throughout right colour for your Neil Barton, Goldwell this feature, we client and their style. will guide you through the red colour process from Skincare analysis consultation to after-care, to ensure It’s crucial to get the right red for a you are catering to redheads in a way client’s skin tone. Carolyn Newman, that will bring new clients and repeat founder of Carolyn Newman Academy custom. The most special and arguably has a great tip to identify the right most lucrative aspect about redheads tones for clients: “To check whether is the fact the colour demands cool shades or warm shades work best maintenance with regular salon on your client place a hot pink and a appointments. If you get it right your bright orange scarf under their chin. redhead clients will be loyal for life. Whichever tone makes their eyes sparkle and their skin look healthy The consultation is the correct one.” If the pink looks Instagram – whether you think it’s best, opt for cool tones, whereas supporting the colour industry or if the orange makes their features creating unrealistic expectations – is pop, use warmer tones. Gemma often the first port of call for people Hensman, director at Hensmans who are thinking about a colour and a Schwarzkopf Professional change. “Clients will come in with ambassador places trial pieces in ideas based on what they have seen her client’s hair. “Test pieces allow on social media and they often want me to see what pre-pigmentation results that aren’t realistic for the hair may be needed – if any at all.” Word or the appointment’s time frame,” of warning – if your client’s skin has explains Tracey Devine Smith, A.S.P very red undertones, you might want global ambassador. This means a to avoid taking their hair red. PB face-to-face colour consultation is Head to p46 to find out the next crucial for red clients. steps in your red adventure professionalbeauty.ae
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Colour
46
Fail to Prepare Prepare to Fail
Colour slow and steady When it comes to the colour application process the key is to create a blank canvas. Issie Churcher, colour director at Brooks & Brooks says: “The saying ‘fail to prepare, prepare to fail’ is an appropriate phrase to live by when you are colouring hair red. You need a good base so that a consistent flow of colour is achievable, either from root to tip or from a darker shadow at the roots that transitions to lighter ends.” The race is on to keep reds coming into the salon. The technological advances of at-home products will make it tempting for clients to touch up their easy-to-fade colour at home. “Glowing roots, dull brown ends, banding and monochromatic colour – these red danger zones make it easy to see why people used to steer
clear of red shades. A bad red is very easy to spot and it’s a tricky colour to create at home, which is why an exquisite red is always engineered in a salon,” stresses Jason Hogan, celebrity and associate colourist at Josh Wood Colour. From blonde to red Changing a client from blonde to red can be challenging. Always follow the fundamental rules of hair colour and don’t be tempted to rush. “It’s important to pre-pigment the hair to the correct desired undertone as this will help maintain the longevity of the colour,” explains Warren Boodaghians, TIGI European technical academy director. You could always play the long game and change a client’s hair over the course of several appointments. “My recommendation is to begin softly and take a client on a journey starting with a soft copper blonde and transitioning into red over time,” he says.
From brown to red Going from brunette to red can be more straightforward. Lisa Whiteman, Goldwell UK guest artist says: “When taking a natural brunette to a red shade it’s important to know your client’s underlying tone. Is it yellow, orange or red? You have to use a shade that is going to counteract or enhance the underlying tones of the hair.” For instance, if a client has underlying red tones and a stylist uses a very bright copper, the result could be too punchy. The roots should always be applied last and mid-lengths and ends applied first to avoid any unsightly ‘root glow’. “An additional red or copper Goldwell Elumen glaze applied after a redhead tint application will give the hair an amazing shine and finish,” adds Lisa. Afro hair to red Red is now a viable option for those with Afro hair. Previously, lightening hair would run the risk of damage due to its porous and fragile nature. Formulation advances led Gemma Amura, Celeb Luxury regional technical educator, to create a rich red on her Afro-haired client. She explains: “I pre-lightened her natural base 4 hair to a level 7 then applied Celeb Luxury Viral Colorditioner in Magenta and Red. My client took Colorditioner home and added colour herself before coming back for a lightener touch-up on her roots.” PB GEMMA AMURA
T
he integrity of your client’s hair is paramount. Before you colour always ensure the hair is in the best possible condition. “I always try to do a month of treatments to give the hair strength and infuse it with moisture,” explains Carolyn Newman. An in-salon service such as TIGI Copyright Care SOS Extreme Recovery Treatment contains 100 times more keratin than a shampoo and conditioner combined. It improves the hair’s condition prior to colouring, it is simple to use, requires no mixing and it processes in just five minutes.
SHARON MALCOLM
Whether your client is a natural blonde, brunette or has Afro hair – there’s a lot to consider before giving your client red locks
professionalbeauty.ae
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Colour
47
“When we want red it doesn’t last and when we want to get rid of red tones, it sticks around – go figure!”
REVLON
Vicki Hoskin, Manic Panic educator
The long game Jason Hogan’s recipe reveals the small steps he takes to achieving a gorgeous red For blondes • Deepen the root • Add lowlights in cinnamon and apricot • Put a sparkle in old ends with amber glaze For brunettes • Warm up the base slightly • Add a red gloss for a spicy-looking finish professionalbeauty.ae
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48
Code
Colour
red
The direct dyes, semi and demipermanents that will achieve a ravishing shade
Schwarzkopf IGORA Vibrance is a fast-acting semi-permanent colour. There are eight red shades in the range which are perfect for enhancing natural red tones.
Ready to join the Revlon Redvolution? Color Sublime by Revlonissimo has an extensive range of beautiful reds and coppers with specific C5 colorants for intense results.
Ammonia-free L’Oréal Professionnel INOA has launched four new amber shades that range from cool coppers to dark red/browns to give more options to clients in the salon.
The red shades in the new Fudge Professional Headpaint range all have added pomegranate oil to neutralise free-radicals, helping to reduce hair porosity and prevent fade.
The Joico Lumishine Natural Red Gold series infuses natural base tones with warmth. The sunset inspired shades have a natural base to prevent the colour fading to pink.
The 20 shades within Advanced Pro Salon ColourCode Vibrant Reds range are infused with nourishing ingredients such as argan oil and vitamins C, E and B5.
Balmain Couleurs Couture is a spa hair colour enriched with silk protein, flaxseed, coconut and argan elixir which helps to repair the hair and it is perfect for prolonging red shades.
Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect with ME+ contains the brand’s Pure Balance Technology which delivers rich vibrant results with less damage colour after colour.
ASP Rock Star Reds colour range improves the vibrancy, depth and longevity of red formulations and it is available in five standout shades with a £6.29 salon price.
For bold and bright colour try Goldwell Pure Pigments. The high definition direct dye additives open up a whole new dimension of colour and give hairdressers the opportunity to experiment.
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C O N G R AT U L AT I O N S TO OUR WINNER
ERICA BALBIN MIRANDA FOR THE
NA IL T E CH N IC IA N OF THE YEAR
AWA R D SPONSORED BY
N A I L : C O D E | U N I T E D A R A B E M I R AT E S | 1 5 0 2 C A P R I C O R N T O W E R | S H E I K H Z AY E D R O A D | 4 1 4 7 1 6 D U B A I
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The salon appointment is just the start of a redhead’s journey because red hair always needs extra care
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our client’s hair looks fabulous when they leave the salon but you don’t want them to return in four to six weeks with a lacklustre mane that is past its best. “Red colour fades quickly (especially over blonde) and when a client leaves the salon they should be advised their colour is a journey and an investment,” explains Andrew Trott-Barn, creative director at Advanced Pro Salon. “Always endorse colour protecting shampoos, conditioners and boosters. If you’re going from brown to red, it’s more likely to have depth rather than vibrancy so recommend shine-inducing products too.” Research and recommend the appropriate colour care products for clients to purchase and make sure your retail shelf is red-friendly. Why not think about selling them a colour-depositing conditioner so they can top up their hue at home? Make sure you tell your clients how to style and treat their new ruby locks too. “Use styling tools with caution as these also have a massive impact on colour fade and always use a thermo heat protector,” warns Shelley Pengilly, milk_shake creative team member. If your client has coloured red hair, advise them to keep the temperature of hot tools under 175°C.
The improved formula of OSMO Colour Revive delivers results in three minutes – the Radiant Red shade is ideal to keep reds bright and vivid between colour appointments.
ROBERT EATON
Fight the fade
“Red colour fades quickly and when a client leaves the salon they should be advised their colour is a journey and an investment”
The Goldwell Kerasilk Color Brilliance range contains the Intensive Luster Mask which seals the cuticle of the hair and has been specially designed for those with porous or damaged locks.
Andrew Trott-Barn, Advanced Pro Salon
Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Special Color Shampoo and Conditioner contains rooibos tea botanicals to help protect against fade, while still providing the much-loved tingle of tea tree. It is available from Salon Success. professionalbeauty.ae
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The next appointment To help colour last longer, book your client in for regular in-salon treatments. “The Fudge Professional Treatment Time Machine repairs breakage to the internal structure of the hair shaft and cuticle,” explains Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional. “The third step of the treatment is called Top Lock and this can be continued at home to give protection for 10 weeks.” When one part of the red colour journey ends, another begins. “After the first colour process, advise
REVLON PROFESSIONAL
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clients to book in for a refresh appointment within four to six weeks,” says Carolyn. This way they will see their colour at its best and lasting for longer. Your client will value your expertise and service and will understand why regular professional colour appointments and at-home products are essential for gorgeous red hair. This will also help to build loyalty. Once clients have found the perfect red shade they won’t want any other colourist to touch their hair. Plus, they won’t be tempted to touch it up at home.
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COLOUR TECHNICIAN OF THE YEAR Rachel Dawson - Tara Rose Salon's
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Oh So Natural
Make sure you are also looking after natural-born redheads in the salon
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Colour enhancers There are lots of ways to tempt natural redheads with colour. For example, L’Oréal Professionnel is spreading the message that ‘balayage is not just for blondes’. The brand has launched four new INOA shades ranging from cool coppers to dark browns, all with an ammonia-free formula and patented oil delivery system technology. It’s wise to consider the extra services you can offer redhead clients on a regular basis. “In my experience natural redheads want to go lighter rather than darker so tempt them with blonde sunkissed highlights,” says Sharon Malcolm, owner of Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing. If they want to maintain their natural colour but it’s looking a little lacklustre offer a demi-permanent service. “You could give hair a pick-me-up with a demipermanent such as Joico Lumishine Liquid Demi-Permanent,” explains Dan Spiller, Joico colour ambassador for Europe, UK and Ireland. “It will boost tone, rehydrate hair and give radiance.” There are also creative colour opportunities with natural redheads. “Natural redheads tend to resign themselves to either lightening up or even going black,” says Patrick Marrow, Crazy Color brand ambassador and owner of HIVE MCR. “We like to add Crazy Color Pinkissimo on wet hair as a conditioner for about 10 minutes as it gives a beautiful rose gold finish.” Regardless of whether your redhead is natural or not, this type of client is an exciting prospect for your salon. Being ‘in the red’ has never looked so good. PB
LOME PARIS
atural red hair can be dry and it has the potential to look lacklustre if it’s not given intensive conditioning and glossing treatments. If your client is coming in for a cut, fringe trim or restyle book them in for a glossing service Did you know and think about how natural redheads the retail offering can make up around 10% be tailored to them. “Red hair looks best of the population in when it’s radiant so we Scotland, Ireland and always try to upsell a Wales? gloss treatment to our red-haired clients when they book. As red pigments are light sensitive, we also recommend products with UV ray protection,” says Carly Price, partner at Muse of London.
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BLUSH Soft yet striking styles
“Fusing the classic silhouettes of past decades with my signature high-octane glamour, this collection is a celebration of beautiful and wearable hair.� Mark Leeson
Hair: Mark Leeson for Revlon Professional Styling: M&R Make-up: Nikki Wolff Photography: Richard Miles
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Get The Look
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Coming up Roses Discover how to recreate this pink-hued look with milk_shake creative team member Shelley Pengilly
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Pre-lighten your client’s hair with a high lift tint.
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To tone the hair mix milk_shake Smoothies Cocktail with equal parts Powder and Pink Grapefruit, plus Light Activator. Rinse out after 20 minutes.
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Apply a milk_shake Direct Colour Cocktail, which is 3 parts Powder and 1 part Light Red with a bowl of leave in-conditioner. This is a root to end application and should be combed through the hair and left for 10 minutes.
Apply a colour care conditioner over the colour then make sure to rinse thoroughly. For a silky finish, blow-dry hair with a smoothing cream. This will help hot tools glide through longer hair more easily.
Style the hair using a straightening 6 iron in a downward motion – remember to alternate the direction you twist the hair to create loose and bohemian waves. PB
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Elemis Superfood Kefir-Tea Mist Feed your clients skin with this super hydrating 4-in-1 treatment mist, infused with rich anti-oxidant superfoods giving clients a fresh dewy complexion. The perfect cooling companion for UAE residents in the months to come! Contact Luxuria Trading: +971 (0) 4 430 8321
LOOP by EIDEAL Introducing LOOP the latest hair curling tool by EIDEAL. This all-in-one curling wand has a super-fast heat up and ergo-dynamic tool is the ultimate in styling versatility plus the professional length-cord allows for flexible styling and a 360 degree tangle-free swivel Contact EIDEAL: +971 (0) 4 259 4665
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Spring/Summer MUST HAVES It’s time to spice up your retail section in time for getting your clients geared for the Summer months. Here are PB’s best picks…
Gharieni MLR Select Vintage The spa table MLR Select Vintage with its stylish retro design is the latest development of the Gharieni Group. The base with its metal frame in connection with the wooden panels reflects an industrial look. The spa table offers extensive storage space for towels and equipment. Contact Gharieni Middle East: +971 (0) 4 276 6734
LEMI Portofino Evo A multifunctional treatment table that combines comfort and ease of use with workspace optimisation. Thanks to the innovative mattress with HBS Stress Relief System, the Portofino Evo model guarantees maximum comfort for both the client and practitioner. Contact LEMI Middle East: +971 (0) 4 399 5730
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Root Deep Hydroil Root Deep is a thoroughly researched natural Cosmetic Science to fight hair fall, hair thinning and decreased hair density. Blended with deep nourishing oils, phytonutrient extracts, vitamins, minerals and plant peptides, it ensures energized-strengthened hair roots, healthy scalp and strong hair fibre. Call Advik Beauty: +971 (0) 4 554 7171
SESSION.SPRAY.FLEX by KEVIN.MURPHY
Diamond Cocoon Global-Protection Treatment by Natura Bisse The Diamond Cocoon Collection is the latest skin care range from luxury brand Natura Bisse, which is said to combat ‘invisible’ pollution – pollutant particles, blue light, solar radiation, gases and heavy metals – which accelerates the ageing process, making dark spots and dull skin more prevalent. Call Natura Bisse Middle East: +971 (0) 4 299 3090
Building on cult favorite, SESSION. SPRAY, KEVIN.MURPHY is excited to announce the launch of SESSION. SPRAY FLEX, a light, flexible finishing hairspray for a workable hold without the crunch. In addition to serving as an anti-humectant, the flash drying property of SESSION.SPRAY FLEX finds the delicate space between keeping moisture in the hair and avoiding humidity so styles last all day. Contact Madi International: +971 (0) 4 240 4014
NEON Lash Collection by Pinky Goat Soin-Apax Serum by Meder Beauty Soin-Apax Serum contains a large dose of Centella asiatica extract with its powerful soothing and anti-inflammatory effect. Centella asiatica reduces the skin’s sensitivity and accelerates healing after aesthetic treatments. With regular use it can make the skin firmer and more elastic by boosting collagen production and suppressing irritation. Call Meder Beauty: +971 (0) 2 627 5926
With 6 styles to choose from the new NEON Lash collection from Pinky Goat now offers a wide range of lash options from soft and wispy to ultra-curly. Each lash is super lightweight and perfect for smaller eyes, giving the illusion of lash extensions – without the need for a lash refill! Call Pinky Goat: +971 (0) 50 904 8741
High Gloss by Kroylan Specially developed lip gloss with special pearl pigments based on Mica providing the lips with extraordinary radiance. High Gloss is available in a range of vivid shades for the modern look. With High Gloss, your lips become the focus of each make-up. Call Maryana Cosmetics: +971 (0) 4 330 0449
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Congratulations to winner of Therapist of the Year Jacinta Davida Coetzee NEO NOIR Beauty Center sponsored by VOYA at the Professional Beauty GCC Awards
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Pretty Gritty by Bio Sculpture Pretty Gritty is the newest colour gel collection from Bio Sculpture, but with a twist. It is a rough textured gel collection available in 4 lovely shades that look like candy colours and ice-cream flavours with names to match. To be applied in 2 thin layers and cured to a dry finish, with no top coat needed. Call House of Enspa: +971 (0) 4 323 2268
Matrix Training Cycles The thoughtfully designed Training Cycles by Matrix is the perfect partner for group cycling classes. Matrix has redefined the cycling experience with the colourful Target Training Display of the CXP. Call Matrix Middle East: +971 (0) 4 456 7939
Gabrielle Chair by Cindarella Paris The essential armchair by Cindarella Paris which is vintage, functional and comfortable. A nice curve, a new proposal of velvet coverings, curved shape, back detail, double exposed seams and wraparound seams. Call Cindarella Paris: +971 (0) 56 446 8966
The Original Tomato Cream by Ella Bache Iconic since 1936, the Original Tomato Cream is rich in vitamins, fruit acids and lycopenes for long-lasting hydration and radiant complexion, with proven results that the cream which lasts up to 8 hours of hydration. Call Luxuria Trading: +971 (0) 4 430 8321
VIEW Collection by Davines View is the first Davines demi-permanent colour line. It’s very delicate and non-commiting, since it doesn’t interfere with the hair structure and the colour vanishes in 6-8 weeks (or 15-20 shampoos) The View colours features – acidic pH which reduces the risk of hair breakage and natural polyglicerols – extracted from olive oil which is the first of its kind in the world of colour, to give extreme shine, moisture and softness Contact EIDEAL: +971 (0) 4 259 4665
The Nelly De Vuyst® BioTense Collection This results-orientated high quality skin care line is completely organic, vegan, biogradable, eco-friendly, GMO free, gluten free, paraben free, alcohol free, SLS free and cruelty free. The full range includes cleansing milk, foaming gel, micellar foam, exfoliant, serum, extract, cream, eye contour gel and 100% mineral sun protection. Call Nelly De Vuyst: +971 (0) 4 337 5469
PROVOC Highlighter Duels It is a shimmer battle! 4 shades split in pairs giving you the choice to highlight with one or two together or four highlighter shades smothered on those all important captivating high points. Call SAWAYA: +961 (0) 1 384 489
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ASENSORY
experience This month we tried… a Sensory Experience at Six Senses Spa, Renaissance Hotel, Dubai
The lowdown Situated in the heart of Dubai’s Downtown district, is the idyllic Six Senses Spa tucked away on the 5th floor of the trendy Renaissance Hotel. Compromising of 6 VIP treatment suites all decorated to represent a sense. Within the suites is a sensory experience, private steam and sauna plus the treatment room which includes two treatment beds.
PB says The 6 treatment room concept has always intrigued me – mainly because it is such a different way of offering treatments as the room is exclusive to you. There’s no communal relaxation area, or other facilities, which guests can enjoy – it’s just you, the therapist and the treatment room. I had 2 sensory journeys whilst visiting Six Senses, the first was smell and the second sound. Each treatment was broken up into 3 parts. For sound, it began with a visit to their alchemy bar, where I chose raw materials to create my own personalised body scrub, which was to be used with my treatment later. I incorporated coffee beans for energy, peppermint for relaxation, which was then mixed with essential oils. Before the scrub, I was encouraged to use the sauna and steam room for 20 minutes, to which I was invited to use my own in my very own treatment suite. The body scrub then followed on from this, it was amazing to be using a scrub personally designed by me!
The second sensory experience was sound which was situated in a different treatment room, this began with a singing bowl experience and following this a full body massage using Subtle Energies body oil – the oil I opted for was lemongrass for soothing. Each treatment room is designed uniquely according to the sensory. The sound room incorporates the Six Senses spa ‘high tech’ theme because following the treatment was a sensory experience using the So Sound wave lounger-system from the USA – a massage treatment chair that vibrates and moves to music. This system was so impressive – the calming effects it has when you plug the headphones in and the way the chair vibrates and moves to the music, really is a wow factor.
Business benefits Not only did the treatment itself really impress me but the ‘high tech – high touch’ approach really does make this spa truly outstanding. Offering private sensory journeys to clients is a real USP especially for the local market. Adding extra benefits to a massage really makes the client feel like its exceptional value for money, and with little cost to the business it is really worth going the extra mile to make sure you stand out from competitors, and Six Senses Spa Dubai really does! >
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NEW MI NI SIZES ! Ultimate Gel Effec t Nail Poli sh 5ml
EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR IN THE GCC WELLNESS UNITED INC. www.wellnessunited.com +971 4 451 6218 Untitled-39 1
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This month we tried… a Diamond Cocoon Experience by Natura Bisse
The lowdown Recognised as the ‘Best Spa Brand’ in 2018, Natura Bisse really is at the forefront of skin care luxury. Not only because they do the Oscars, and they quite literally ‘do’ the Oscars – but they also release collections, which are glamorous, yet active – and the newly launched Diamond Cocoon Experience is a treatment like no other. Launched exclusively at the Oscars, Natura hired a suite at the renowned Beverley Hills Hotel to perform this treatment on VI-VIP clients, and the treatment has left a lasting impression by many. The collection is based a global pollution-protection treatment, based on the latest trend of combating daily pollution effects.
PB says The Diamond Cocoon Experience is based on three pillars which allows skin to restore itself back to full strength and purity by focusing on the power of the therapists’ hands. These three pillars are; liberates the skin from toxins and allows the skin to breathe again, with an intensive prebiotic cleansing ritual based on active charcoal and exfoliations; fortifies from the inside, using a prebiotic super-concentrate that balances the skin’s microbiota, along with powerful
strengthening and antioxidant active ingredients with a soothing mask that repairs stressed skin and finally, protects the cutis with an invisible shield that softens and simultaneously protects skin from polluting particles and acts as a powerful defence against free radicals. Bridget, the lead trainer for Natura Bisse, worked her magic in giving me the ultimate relaxation experience which lasted 60 minutes. Natura Bisse has a way with using different systematic massage techniques which I hadn’t experienced before, focusing on pressure points, chiromassage and in this experience a Diamond Cocoon Sculpting Tool which helps the ingredients absorb even deeper. A white jade massage tool is also used to stimulate microcirculation and the skin’s natural detox process which sculpts the face.
Business benefits The Diamond Cocoon concept is really a facial experience like no other – the mix of massage techniques with tools plus the impressive array of active products to help combat daily pollution, resulted in my skin looking sculpted, rejuvenated which left me leaving Natura Bisse HQ with naturally glowing effect which lasted for days. PB
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Eyelash Academy & Supplies
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VINTAGE SERIES NE
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VINTAGE Sideboard Large storage space Drawers Available in many wooden decors
VINTAGE Trolley MLR Select VINTAGE Height, inclination, back & leg section elec. adjustable Large storage space in basement Optional: Smart-Thermo heating system, memory function (up to 4 positions), etc. Available in many wooden decors Soft upholstery possible (Fig.)
Three drawers High quality castors Optional with magnifying lamp Available in many wooden decors
Gharieni Middle-East • Dubai Design District D3 • Building 1, Office B208 • Dubai +971 (0) 4 276 6734 • info@gharieni.ae • www.gharieni.ae
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