November 2014
For your beauty, hair and spa business
Getting noticed
How to wow potential employers
Scent of success
Aromatherapy to boost your business
GCC
Lights, camera, action! Creating a successful hair shoot
art attack
Top nails techs get creative in our nail art special
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Published by and (C) 2014 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC. Registered at Dubai Media City. 321 Building #8, Dubai. UAE t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Trade Exhibitions & Publishing FZ LCC Editor: Fiona Vlemmiks fiona@professionalbeauty.ae Contributors: Andrea Anastasiou, Maria Dowling, Charlotte Green,Sally Hewerdine, Zoe Moleshead, Eve Oxberry and Dr Mike Ryan Advertising: t: +971 (0)50 359 1157 Sales director: Zaid Nourouz zaid@professionalbeauty.ae Sales executive: Fernanda Chavez Fernanda@professionalbeauty.ae Circulation & subscriptions enquiries: register@professionalbeauty.ae t: +971 (0)56 352 2906 Marketing Manager: Nicki Wyatt nick@professionalbeauty.ae General Manager: Andrew Green andy@professionalbeauty.ae Publisher: Mark Moloney Design and production: Scratch Advertising & Communication www.scratchcom.com Printing: Masar Print & Publications LLC - PO Box 485100, Dubai www.masarprint.com Controlled Distribution: Blue Truck www.bluetruck.ae The Publishers cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers' particular circumstances. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.
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in this issue... Regulars 7
News All the top industry stories including our first page dedicated to international news
17 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats for beauty salons, spas and hair salons
Features 65 Treatment news A spotlight on the latest luxury hair treatment, a spa pedicure and a treatment design to instill inner strength in clients
Cover Image courtesy of: CND
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
42 Make-up through the ages We provide make-up tips for clients of all ages 45 Omani escape We profile one of Oman’s most loved spas
27 Ask the experts The low-down the latest aesthetic medicine treatment, taking Hollywood by storm, and advising clients on water enhancement 30 The hair doctor Dr Mike Ryan explains how pregnancy will affect client’s hair
23 Shaping up Why mechanical body shaping can grow your business
50 Perfect 10 Salina Handa talks 10 years of spa chain SensAsia 68 Turn back time Spotlight on Pevonia’s new stem cell treatment 70 Product news The latest product launches for your hair, beauty, spa and nail business 80 Calendar The essential dates for your business diary from trade shows to conferences and training
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his month’s Insider statistics are particularly interesting. From our survey of salons and spas in the region, we learned that the thing that attracts you most to a brand its reputation, not the cost. You also told us that you believe that your website should “look as good as your salon”, highlighting the continued importance of social media and the need for you to market your business effectively. Speaking of selling yourself, Maria Dowling explains how to set up a successful hair collection photo shoot on page 35 – one way of promoting your skills to potential clients. Having been involved in recruiting staff, I understand the importance of a clear, concise and attractive CV. Sally Hewerdine gives you the tools to create a CV that will wow potential employers on page 39. In product news, Pevonia has launched its long-awaited stem cell range. Read our exclusive interview with the brand’s medical directior of global education on page 68 to find out more about the science behind the range. With a focus on aromatherapy, nail art and body shaping, this issue is packed with all the information and ideas you need to help your grow your business.
Fiona Vlemmiks – EDITOR
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On the cover 33 Lights, camera action Maria Dowling explains how to direct a successful hair photo shoot 39 Getting noticed Sally Hewerdine helps you create a CV to wow employers
9 52 Art attack Nail techs get crafty with our nail art special 61 Scent of success Why aromatherapy is integral to your business
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All the news and views from the worlds of beauty, hair and spa
Internationally-renowned “thought-leader” to speak at the PSWC r Daniel Friedland, internationally recognised thought leader, will be a keynote speaker at the Professional Spa and Wellness Convention held on Monday January 26, 2015, in Dubai. Dr Friedland is the author of Evidencebased Medicine: a Framework for clinical practice, one of the first books to outline methods to frame questions, find, evaluate, and apply medical literature searches to patient care. This experience led him into the fields of neuroscience, emotional intelligence and mindfulness and to explore how he could
help physicians and leaders in business develop conscious leadership skills to enhance not only their personal wellbeing, but also the wellbeing of their practices and organisations. He is founder and chief executive of coaching and consulting company SuperSmartHealth and president-elect of the American Board of Integrative Holistic Medicine. Conference organiser Jean-Guy de Gabriac told Professional Beauty: “I've had the pleasure of attending Dr Friedland's gripping presentations twice so far. For all spas looking for
Top German nutritionist launches services in Dubai Caroline Bienert, nutritional therapist and detox expert, is offering her skills to GCC residents. German-born Bienert’s client base spans the globe and she decided to decamp to Dubai, for six months of the year, after seeing a steep growth in demand for her services here. She will be conducting speaker sessions and seminars where she
hopes to provide individuals with the “necessary knowledge for successful, active management of their own body”. She said, “I am so excited to make the move to Dubai and share my passion for nutrition. Consumers in the UAE are increasingly looking for preventative methods to combat health issues and I’m delighted to be sharing my expertise.”
differentiation factors and those wanting to attract repeat guests with valueadded wellness programmes, Dr Daniel Friedland goes way beyond pampering and relaxation into the realms of neuroplasticity to tell us how we can rewire our brains, to be more efficient, more resilient to stress and achieve peak performance. “He will fly especially from San Diego, to deliver a 30-minute keynote presentation that will surely be a gamechanger for spa operators, GMs, owners and investors.”
Beauty Forever celebrates new aesthetic services
Abu Dhabi-based clinic Beauty Forever has unveiled a new range of services targeting the hair and body. At a recent launch event, the clinic highlighted its new advanced equipment, the Softtouch Radial and Oxynova plus TS machines. The Softtouch Radial machine uses high-intensity acoustic pressure waves to combat and reduce unwanted effects of cellulite on the arms, hips, buttocks, inner and outer thighs. The OxyNova plus TS machine provides oxygen dermo infusion treatments, stimulating tissue oxygenation and microcirculation. As well as firming the face and body. It can also provide solutions to scalp problems. Guests at the launch enjoyed canapés and were treated to goodie bags and a raffle for treatments and gifts.
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Sky is the limit for Burj Al Arab Scaling new heights, Dubai’s iconic seven-star hotel has created glass relaxation steam and sauna rooms at 150 metres above the Arabian Gulf. Now open to the public, the panoramic views offered from gentleman-only heat and steam spa lounges looks out to the World Islands and Downtown Dubai.
Described as “sleek, smart and sophisticated,” the new features offer exceptional visibility with fog-proof glass. The steam lounge also has a special crystal frame which, when heated, becomes covered in a veneer of ice. Mosaic tiles used in the lounged have been designed exclusively for Burj Al Arab.
16 Doha salons facing charges The Qatar Ministry of Economy and Commerce has filed complaints of violation against 16 out of the 37 women's beauty salons its team inspected in October. According to the Qatar Tribune, the team of female inspectors from the Quantitative Licences and Market Control Section, a part of the ministry,
conducted the inspections at 37 salons in Umm Salal municipality. Sixteen salons were booked for using expired products, counterfeit products and goods, unreadable or confusing rates, announcement of special offers without the approval of competent authorities, and failure to declare the price of goods on sale.
Abdullah bin Khalifa al Kuwari, the director of the quantitative, licences and market control section said the department, in collaboration with other municipal control departments, will apply tighter controls on women's beauty salons.
Tweezerman notches up a gear for Movember Tweezerman has launched its Gear range in the Middle East in time for the charitable month of Movember, when men grow facial hair to raise money for men’s health charities. The range consists of grooming tools designed for men, and includes shaving brushes, precision-grip clippers and trimming scissors. The annual Movember campaign, which takes place in November, encourages men around the world to grow moustaches with the aim of raising awareness and funds for men’s health charities, specifically prostate and testicular cancer.
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Industry leaders were invited to share ideas on emerging trends and challenges in the kingdom of Saudi Arabia in a recent debate. The debate was held ahead of Saudi Health & Beauty, the kingdom’s first industry exhibition, which will be held on November 24 -27 in the Jeddah Centre for Forums and Events. Saudi Arabia is the GCC’s largest health and beauty spend per capita at US$3,800 a year and the sector adds US$17bn annually to the kingdom’s economy. In planning the exhibition, Reed Sunaidi Exhibitions, organiser of Saudi Health & Beauty, invited over 20 industry leaders to the debate. While confirming the need for a health and beauty focused event in the Kingdom, the industry group highlighted the need for
more comprehensive product information and demonstration to educate consumers on the different types of products, their application and efficacy. John Hooke-Tappin, show director at Reed Sunaidi said “The insights gained will help shape Saudi Health & Beauty, particularly in terms of the dynamic activity, live demonstrations and workshops taking place during the show. Our aim is to play a leading role in developing the landscape of this valuable sector, which is not only one of the most important in region, but is also attracting significant interest. This in turn will bring inward investment from international brands together with innovation, talent, and increase in competitiveness and job opportunities.”
New era for Wella UAE Stylists from throughout the UAE gathered on the exclusive Royal Island Beach Club on Lebanon Island to celebrate new beginnings for Wella in the region. The event, on The World, Dubai, was held to celebrate Jade Distribution, a division of Jashanmal Group, becoming the official partner of P & G professional Brands. Three new Wella products were also introduced into the UAE market. Wella Koleston Perfect Innosense - a colour brand formulated to reduce the risk
of developing allergies, Wella Professionals Freelights – a system allowing stylists to create sunkissed looks freehand, without the use of foils, and the SP Luxe Oil line were unveiled. Guests were encouraged to try the new products at interactive stations and were treated to a live hair show where Wella international brand ambassadors Andrea Hecker, from Germany, and Chad Hanna, from South Africa, showcased styles using the products. “We are thrilled to give UAE hair professionals access to these outstanding products, which have already received international acclaim,” said Ramzi Halawani, general manager, Jade Distribution. “At a time when the professional hair care industry in the UAE continues to expand, we aim to be at the forefront, giving consumers access to the best products available.”
The Global Mentorship Pilot Programme is an initiative of The Global Spa and Wellness Summit, held in Marrakesh in September. The programme will be led by peers in the spa and wellness industry around the world including Jean-Guy de Gabriac, leader Mentorship Committee Europe who is also organsing the Professional Spa and Wellness Conference, and Shahida Siddique, Middle East and Africa. Siddique owner of Spadunya Middle East, distributor of the Altearah Bio range, said: “It’s the first of its kind and it will guide and inspire spa managers in their country, or region, on a one-to-one peer level to deal with various issues such as stress, timemanagement, responsibilities.” The first three-month mentorship programme will run from January-March 2015, and a second programme will run AprilJune 2015. The mentors consist of 15 spa directors from around the globe including, from our region, Francisca Atunes, area director at Six Senses in the Middle East and Africa, Neil Hewerdine, vice president of spa services at Atlantis the Palm, Dubai, and Christian Kiefer, director, spa and leisure, the St Regis in Abu Dhabi. To qualify as a mentee, you must be a spa manager or director with two years minimum experience in the region and apply before December 1. For more information email jean-guy@tiptouch.com Jean-Guy de Gabriac
Industry debate helps shape Saudi’s first health and beauty exhibition
Industry launches global mentorship programme
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Kérastase’s Discipline range reaches GCC Discipline, the latest line from the luxury L’Oréal haircare brand, is launching in salons across the region. The discipline range targets unmanageable, frizzy or undisciplined hair and is the result of several years of research centred around women’s desire for “obedient” hair that still moves, offering control without rigidity. As part of the research, L’Oréal created a breakthrough
measurement tool able to duplicate the movement of hair and analyse thousands of parameters, observing every parameter to decode hair’s "perfect" movement. Disciplinecomprises a professional treatment and extensive line of products. The line uses the unique Morpho-Keratine, a blend of shape-enhancing ingredients to consolidate hair fibre and surfacemorphing polymers to smooth surface roughness.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
News in pictures Renowned London hairdresser hosts training in Dubai Nathan Walker from Trevor Sorbie salon in London visited Dubai in October to demonstrate new innovations from KeraStraight. Ruksher Malik and Steven Chan, owners of Pastels salons and Rapid General Trading, which distributes the KeraStraight range in the UAE, arranged for him to demonstrate the new KeraStraight Ultimate and the Amazing Intense Boost treatment at the Salon Educators venue in Jumeirah Lake Towers, Dubai. Salon Educators, offers training packages for students to learn the correct application of the KeraStraight products. Deborah Whitehead, director of education and City and Guilds Tutor at Salon Educators said: “The results on the four models on the day were amazing.”
international news
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15 Industry news and views from around the globe
Toskanaworld reopens five-star Hotel Elbresidenz in German spa town Spa and wellness group Toskanaworld has taken over the 211room hotel, which has been closed since it was damaged by the flooding of the Elbe River in June 2013, in the German spa town of Bad Schandau. The hotel, set to re-open in the spring of 2016, will undergo a multimillioneuro renovation featuring a medical spa and Ayurveda treatments, among other
services. Toskanaworld already operates a hotel, with thermal baths, in Bad Schandau. Also damaged by the 2013 floods, the property re-opened, following a period of restoration, in April this year. The company also operates two hotels, with thermal baths, in the German towns of Bad Sulza and Bad Orb.
Medi-spa to double in size due to demand The successfull Sha Wellness Clinic in Alicante, Spain, is set to double in size by the end of the 2014, with a 2,000sqm extension to the building, which will house new facilities including an indoor swimming pool, Pilates studio, and a fitness suite fitted with Technogym equipment. There will also be an organic allotment, which will supply the majority of the food served in the medispa’s Shamadi restaurant. The building has been designed by
architect Carlos Gilardi and interior designers Elvira Blanco and Francisco Palacios and will have a minimalist and modern feel. New programmes on offer following the expansion will include alzheimer’s prevention and brain stimulation, liposculpting, hydrotherapy, hair-loss therapy as well as stem cell and regenerative medicine using biotechnology to prevent signs of ageing.
Most mobile therapists work under 10 hours a week The average UK mobile therapist works less than 10 hours a week, is aged between 30 and 39 and chooses this career path to fit in with family life, according to new research. A mobile beauty career is most popular with women in their 30s, with 46 per cent of mobile therapist falling into this age group, followed by 38 per cent in their 20s and 15 per cent in their 40s. Some 41 per cent of the London mobile therapists surveyed by online mobile therapy booking platform Glow said they chose this career because they could fit work around their family life, while 30 per cent said it was because they wanted to become their own boss, 19 per cent said the flexible working hours were
the most important factor and 11 per cent said they could get a higher income by going mobile. Meanwhile, 37 per cent said they work less than 10 hours a week, 30 per cent work between 10 and 20 hours and just 4 per cent work more than 40 hours, with 89 per cent of mobiles saying they do not have a large enough customer base to turn away customers. Manicures and pedicures (34 per cent), tanning (28 per cent) and waxing (15 per cent) were found to be the most popular treatments, with one hour being the average booking time for the majority (45 per cent) of mobiles, followed by 30 minutes (26 per cent) then 90 minutes (23 per cent).
US magazine launches diagnostic beauty app Beauty title Allure has launched an app to help consumers diagnose skin condition and recommend products. The app, called SkinBetter, uses an algorithum to diagnose skin condition from a picture, as well as asking users some basic questions about their skincare concerns and skin type. It then shows the user any damage in a similar way to skin analysis cameras used by brands such as Murad and Dermalogica. Afterwards, the app recommends different products for the user tailored to their skincare problems, including cleansers, moisturisers and serums. Products listed on the app have been selected by SkinBetter’s expert advisory board, which includes dermatologists and plastic surgeons Allure's editor in chief Linda Wells said, “Most women are confused about their skin type and its needs. When they shop for skincare products, they’re overwhelmed by the excess of choice and the dearth of reliable guidance to make that choice.” Co-founder of SkinBetter Jonah Shacknai said that he hopes the app will allow consumers to become better educated about their skin health.
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17 The month in numbers
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
62
%
How did treatment business in September 2014 compare with September 2013?
60 20 20
% Better
%SAME
Insider beauty, hair and nails Insider, our exclusive round-up of salons in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
% WORSE
November Percentage of clients who rebooked
67
%
Business was good for the majority of you in September. Interestingly, you revealed that when it comes to brand selection for your salon, the reputation of a brand far outweighs the cost. The main reason you visit trade shows is to buy and also to see what new innovations there are on the market. When it comes to promoting yourselves, the majority of you believe that the look of your website should be as good as that of your salon – highlighting the importance of social media. Most of you believe it’s a good idea to host evening events to promote new launches.
On the spot What are the most important elements when selecting a brand? 1. Reputation of brand 2. Customer service 3. Cost 4. Marketing support
90
%
host evening events to support new launches?
5. Why do you attend trade shows 1. To see offers and buy products 2. To see new products and trends 3. To meet the brands 4. To educate staff
98
%
Say the look of your website is as important as the look of your salon
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18 The month in numbers
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
55
%
How did treatment business in September 2014 compare with September 2013?
70 10 20
Insider spa
% Better
%SAME
Insider, our exclusive round-up of spa in the GCC. It’s the easiest way to stay in the know
% WORSE
November Business was flourishing in September and many of you continue to enjoy repeat custom. Most of you see trade shows as an opportunity to network with the key distributors in the region as well as for checking out what’s new on the market. When it comes to selecting brands for your spa, you say the reputation of the brand is crucial, with the cost of the products being less important to you.
Percentage of clients who rebooked
58
%
On the spot What are the most important elements when selecting a brand? 1. Reputation of brand 2. Customer service 3. Marketing support 4. Cost
80
%
Host evening events to support new launches
Why do you attend trade shows? 1. To meet the brands 2. To see new products and trends 3. To educate staff 4. To see offers and buy products
80
%
Think the look of your website is as important as the look of your spa
25-26TH JANUARY 2015 MADINAT JUMEIRAH, DUBAI
Uniting the beauty, spa, hair and nail profession The must attend event for your business
Save the AED100, register now at www.professionalbeauty.ae Quote promo code: PB2
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Professional Beauty GCC October 2014
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Shaping up Offering a high return on investment, mechanical body shaping can really boost your business writes Andrea Anastasiou While there’s no denying that the most effective way of getting into shape is through a well-balanced diet and exercise, sometimes we all need a helping hand to reach our body goals. That’s where mechanical body shaping steps in. We take a look at these various forms of treatment and why you should consider adding them to your salon, spa or clinic. There is a wide variety of different body shaping treatments available that utilise different techniques. Doctor Mania El Baba, managing director of Specialized Beauty explains that body shaping is any procedure that alters the shape or tightens different areas of the body. These techniques eliminate the fat that remains in a variety of places in the upper and lower body. “Body shaping slims the body by reducing body circumference and smoothing cellulite,” explains Dr El Baba. “The latest in body contouring technologies are non-invasive procedures that require no surgery, little to no downtime and leave no surgical scars. Non-invasive technology is used to achieve a reduction in size of certain body areas, increased tone in lax or redundant skin, and diminished appearance of cellulite,” she continues.
intermittent muscle contractions to separate tissue layers and target fat cells. Benefits of this treatment include slimming, and contouring and firming of persistent areas of fat and cellulite; it can also help with difficult areas such as muffin tops and love handles. The treatment is, according to Salunga, quick and painless. “It’s a great way to achieve an ideal figure without resorting to surgery, and the most important benefit is that it cures water retention, which causes swollen and tired legs,” says Salunga.
Cryo body shaping Medica Group offers Cryo body shaping. The machine that’s used to perform the treatment is known as the Cooltech, which kills fat by freezing it, and works on most areas of the body such as the abdomen, flanks and thighs. According to the brand manager at Medica Group, clients can expect to see results from the first session, and a total of just three treatments are needed; there is no need for maintenance sessions.
LPG Lipomassage Lipomassage is a non-invasive treatment for stubborn areas of fat; it firms and reshapes, and helps drain water retention from the body. According to Cathy Salunga, spa manager and LPG in-house trainer at Dubai-based beauty chain Tips and Toes, the procedure focuses on activating adipocytes (fat cells) to trigger lipolysis (fat release) and the activation of fibroblast cells to produce collagen and elastin to firm the skin. The procedure is carried out using
LPG
Hypoxi Hypoxi is another popular body shaping treatment. Allison Pickford is director of Hypoxi Training Equipment LLC, which offers the treatment at its flagship studio, BodySmart. She explains that the Hypoxi method works on three principles: vacuum therapy, compression therapy and moderate fat burning exercise. It targets the stomach, abdomen, buttocks, hips and thighs. There are various Hypoxi machines available, and the one that is used depends on the client’s goals. For example, the Hypoxi L250 and S120 target the buttocks, hips and thighs. They’re also very effective for reducing cellulite. The Vacunaut machine targets the stomach and abdomen.
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24 CACI Quantum
Pickford says that there are several advantages to the Hypoxi method. “The client experiences targeted inch and weight loss. This means that the Hypoxi devices target those specific problem areas quickly and effectively. Another advantage is that Hypoxi is very effective in cellulite reduction, cellulite smoothening and lymphatic drainage. All these together ensure that the client is able to achieve the figure they desire,” she says. Softouch Radial and Vacuum [use softouch pic near here] Softouch Radial and Vacuum uses a sophisticated method of treatment with shockwaves, which is commonly used in aesthetic medicine. It combats and reduces the unwanted effects of cellulitis on the arms, hips, buttocks, inner and outer thighs, and other parts of the body with high intensity acoustic pressure waves for a slimmer figure. Dr Mania explains how the device generates acoustic pressure waves that penetrate through the skin and have a stimulating effect on connective tissue, restoring normal vascular flow. “It therefore has a valuable effect on water retention and on the skin’s orange peel look,” explains Dr Mania.
Softouch Radial and Vacuum Softouch Radial and Vacuum uses a sophisticated method of treatment with shockwaves, commonly used in aesthetic medicine. It combats and reduces the unwanted effects of cellulitis on the arms, hips, buttocks, inner and outer thighs, and other parts of the body with high intensity acoustic pressure waves for a slimmer figure. Dr El Baba explains how the device generates acoustic pressure waves that penetrate through the skin and have a stimulating effect on connective tissue, restoring normal vascular flow. “It therefore has a positive effect on water retention and on the skin’s orange peel look,” explains Dr El Baba.
CACI Quantum helps with the three B’s; bust, bottom and belly. The machines utilised in this therapy employ 72 preprogrammed modes that incorporate faradic and microcurrent stimulation for slimming, contouring, cellulite and lymphatic drainage. Mary Overton, export manager of global corporate accounts at CACI International says that with CACI Quantum, clients enjoy the joint benefit of a non-surgical facelift while at the same time receiving a total body toning treatment . “This enables the salon to increase their revenue without the need to increase time,” explains Overton. “The treatment lasts just 20 minutes yet it’s the equivalent to performing 360 perfect sit-ups.”
How do businesses benefit from offering body shaping treatments? Body shaping machines are a good option for business owners who are looking for a high return on investment. Medica Group’s brand manager explains how the Cooltech machines have a high return on investment, “With only three patients per week you’ll see a return in investment after five months.” Ludovic Loffreda, CEO of LPG Bella Concept says that when body shaping is done mechanically, a salon or spa can accommodate a lot of clients and offer them tailor-made body shaping and firming solutions, compared to when it’s done manually. As a result, the return on investment is much higher. “With visible and effective results, clients will be satisfied and will return for more sessions,” explains Loffreda. Overton also points to the great return on investment that the CACI Quantum machines offer. She explains how the return on investment is excellent, with salons making pure profit after only two months of two body treatments per day. Adding a slimming treatment to a salon menu can also give your business that extra edge on the competition. Salunga explains how offering LPG Lipomassage has given Tips and Toes a competitive advantage. “Health benefits and the well-balanced lifestyle of our clients is our main goal, and client retention has helped us grow,” she says. “Not all salons and spas provide this service. We like to offer our clients a full service salon and spa treatment menu, and slimming is an important part of that.” PB Contacts CACI call: + 44 208 7 31 56 78 Hypoxi call: + 971 4 363 83 18 LPG call: 971 4 380 41 23 Medica call: +971 4 437 06 69 Specialized Beauty call: +971 4 288 45 49
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Ask the experts Our beauty experts from around the globe answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa How do I advise my clients on how to choose the best shower filter to prevent hair loss?
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he biggest contaminant when it comes to hair loss is chlorine. While chlorine does serve a purpose in killing bacteria in municipal water before it even comes even close to your faucet, it will often have the negative side effect of drying out skin and hair, and unfortunately for those susceptible to hair loss, this can be the final nail in the baldness coffin. Shower water filters are a smart and important choice for reducing the amount of chlorine and vapourised chemical contamination that your client’s body and lungs are exposed to from the water they bathe in and the air that they breathe. There are a number of options in the market to choose from including KDF copper-zinc alloy filters, vitamin C filters and carbon filters. Before investing in a particular filter to sell in your salon however, it is important to realise that there are two main performance factors to consider. Firstly, the amount of chlorine that is reduced or neutralised by a shower water filter is extremely important. A person can absorb more chlorine in one shower than they would typically drink all day. This harsh chemical dries skin and hair and can irritate the eyes and breathing. When evaluating shower water filters, make sure the filter removes 90 per cent or more of the chlorine in water. In addition to chlorine removal, look for a filter that uses more than one type of media for filtration. You will find that many filters
include KDF copper-zinc alloy media because of its high effectiveness for chlorine removal. Activated carbon is the other media you should look for in a shower water filter. Activated carbon media reduces organics like (trihalomethanes), which is a by-product of the chlorine water disinfection process that can form nasty, breathable contaminants such as chloroform. The second consideration should be the impact that the shower filter will have on the shower water pressure. When evaluating this key consideration, there are two things to review. The first step is to determine the flow rate. The second factor to consider is up-flow design. A water filter with an up-flow design will reduce channelling and clogging by forcing water up through the media as opposed to down through the media where media can collect or clog the bottom of the filter. Up-flow designs are also engineered to maintain the original shower height.
Amin Sheybani is chief executive officer of Vivandi Hair Spa a leading hair restoration centre in Dubai that specialises in effective, non-surgical hair loss treatments. Vivandi also supplies hair loss products for professional use.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
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I keep hearing about the benefits of Ultherapy - could you explain how the procedure works?
U
ltherapy is a safe, non-surgical treatment that counteracts the effects of time and gravity on the skin. Ultherapy uses the body’s own regenerative response to gently and gradually lift skin on the eyebrows, under the chin and on the neck, and smooth fine lines and wrinkles on the décolletage. It is the only skin rejuvenation procedure that uses ultrasound imaging, which has unique properties that are scientifically proven to yield highly-effective results. During the procedure, the Ulthera ultrasound applicator is placed onto the face to enable the aesthetician to view the tissue beneath the skin and decide where the treatment energy should be focussed. This non-invasive procedure then delivers an exact amount of ultrasound energy, at a precise depth, and at the optimal temperature for collagen regeneration. The body’s response to this energy is to recondition tired skin by stimulating the growth of fresh, new collagen through a natural process known as neocollagenesis, as well as jumpstarting the regenerative process that strengthens weak collagen. The result is tightening and gradual lifting of the skin back into a more youthful position. It should be noted that this is the only procedure that works at the same depth as a plastic surgeon as it reaches the superficial muscular aponeurotic
system (SMAS) layer. By coagulating the SMAS layer we get the same results as a plastic surgeon would during a facelift procedure but with absolutely no downtime as Ultherapy bypasses the top layers of the skin, meaning no visible bruising, swelling or marks after the treatment. The length of the treatment will depend on the area being treated and an individual’s bespoke treatment plan. A face and neck procedure typically takes 60−90 minutes, while a chest treatment takes approximately 30 minutes. Some patients see an initial effect right after their treatment, but up to 90 per cent of the results do not appear until two or three months post-treatment as new collagen works to lift and tighten skin on the neck, chin and brow as well as smooth skin on the chest. Just two to three months after treatment tired collagen is replaced with new, more elastic collagen. As this collagen-building process continues, further improvements can appear up to six months following a procedure. Most patients enjoy fresh, young collagen for at least a year after their procedure. Thanks to its A-list fan base, which includes the everyouthful Courteney Cox and appearances on a host of highly popular US TV shows, Ultherapy is gaining a legion of worldwide fans that are impressed with its results and zero downtime. While Ultherapy won’t duplicate the results of a facelift, it’s a clinically proven, non-invasive alternative for those not ready for surgery—and can even be an option for patients who wish to extend the effects of cosmetic surgery. PB Rebecca Treston founded Euromed in 1999. She is a licensed medical aesthetician and laser specialist and a member of the American Academy of Anti-Ageing. The clinic has forged a reputation as a pioneer in the field of aesthetics in the UAE and is one of the first in the region to introduce Ultherapy – the latest and most acclaimed anti-ageing treatment that is beloved by the Hollywood elite.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
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The Hair
Doctor
We’ve all heard of the pregnancy glow, but not all mothers-to-be will enjoy lustrous hair. Dr Mike Ryan explains how to care for client’s hair in pregnancy
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regnancy, and how it affects hair, is a topic of concern for many expectant mothers. A few years ago, a study entitled “The effect of pregnancy on scalp hair and facial skin" was conducted. Of the 375 women studied for three years, the most frequently asked question was “How will pregnancy affect my hair?” While pregnancy can often be a terrific time for the hair, it is not always the case. Skin changes are often noticeable within weeks of conception, changes in the hair are not. Hair has a growth rate of half an inch a month and so it would be impossible to notice changes so rapidly. That said, there could be changes in the amount of sebum produced by your client’s sebaceous glands and this can affect the hair’s appearance and feel. Out of the pregnant women questioned in the study, about a third saw an improvement in their hair after four to five months. They said it fell out less and felt thicker and that this lasted for the rest of the pregnancy. This can be explained by hormonal changes during pregnancy. There is an increase in oestrogen levels and a reduction of androgens, which can cause a decrease in the production of sebum. An over-oily scalp can give the hair a heavy, limp and lank feel, and it is the acidity of sebum that smoothes down the hair’s cuticle. When less sebum is produced, the hair appears drier and may have more body, so it feels thicker. Furthermore, oestrogens extend the growth phase of hair, so it stays in the scalp and grows longer. On the other hand, a third of the women questioned stated that the
condition of their hair worsened. And the remaining third did not notice any difference. However, of the 375 women, 50 per cent experienced post-partum hair fall. Why some women have wonderful hair during pregnancy, and others complain of it all the time is still not fully understood. We know that hormonal changes during pregnancy vary in each individual and that the susceptibility of the hair follicles to these changes also varies. It is impossible to estimate in advance what these effects will be. Your client’s hair could be wonderful during a first pregnancy and be quite the reverse in the second – or vice versa. There are some things, however, that can be done to help your client get the best out of their hair during pregnancy. A growing foetus uses a huge amount of energy. Following the four-hour nutrition rule is highly important, i.e. snacking on a complex carbohydrate such as fruit or wholegrain toast if they go than four hours between meals. Hair is not an essential tissue, like a growing baby, so it will suffer if your client doesn’t eat regularly. However, you client should always consult their doctor before making any changes to their diet. PB
Dr Mike Ryan, is a trichologist working exclusively in Vivandi’s HairSpa, the leading hair restoration centre in Dubai which specialises in effective, non-surgical hair loss treatments. Vivandi also supplies hair loss products for professional use. For more information visit www.hairspa.ae or www.vivandi.ae
If you have a question for Dr Mike, please email fiona@professionalbeauty.ae
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Lights, camera - action! Premiere hairstylist Maria Dowling explains the secrets behind a successful hair shoot
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s a stylist and colourist I believe in the importance of being creative. Creative in a sense of always devising something new; picturing your vision and your ideas when it comes to hair. Every year I look forward to generating my own hair colour collection and shooting the looks with an amazing team of artistic individuals. I first came up with my own collection almost ten years years ago. I used to look at hair magazines and think that I could do a lot better, so I
did! A photo shoot is not just about doing a hair style and colour, it is about producing a scene to bring the hair alive. Clients now ask for the colour and styles, from my shoots, while I also get emails from people all over the world, saying they like the styles or asking what colour combinations I have used. Some of the shoots I am really proud of, while some did not work out how I wanted them to. But with each shoot, I have become more and more informed on what works and what doesn’t.
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35 Maria Dowling offers her top 10 tips on what makes a successful hair shoot... 1. Plan Set a date for the shoot and work on your idea. I usually get a big pin board and place everything on it that is currently a hot trend right now. In the salon we do this all the time, so we can get the feel of what trends are about to hit. From this we come up with an idea of how we want the hair to look and the theme for the shoot.
2. Choose your team I have an art director who will organise everything and bring my vision to life. We will meet with the photographer on a regular basis before the shoot to make sure she shares my vision. I’m a very visual person so I provide the photographer with a mood board and images of how I want the shoot to look and feel. Choose a photographer whose work you’re familiar with and who will suit this particular shoot. It is really important that they have had experience in fashion photography so that they will understand the look you want to create.
3. Casting your models Don’t scrimp on your models! It’s worth spending a bit of extra money on good models. Check out modeling agencies in your area and organise a casting. Models should always bring their portfolios to castings. After all, a good model may be a bit quirky looking in the flesh but when it comes to images she could look stunning. I always select three models in my shoots – one with dark hair, another with blonde, and a redhead or medium-coloured hair, which means that everyone looking at the images will have a colour relevant to their natural hair type and colour.
4. Styling the model I always have a clothes stylist to select the clothes and accessories for the shoot. It’s really important that your stylist has a clear understanding of your vision so that they get the right pieces to enhance the overall look, but not detract from the hair. You will also need to book a professional make-up artist and brief them on the models’ looks. Again, the make-up should enhance, not detract from the hair.
5. The Location You will need to hire a studio for the shoot. Your photographer should be able to recommend some locations and advise on extra lighting if needed. Some photographers have their own studio, which is easier because they will have everything that they need in one place.
6. Know who you’re shooting for Different magazines require different types of shots. For hair magazines, they want head and shoulders shots, but for some publications will want front face-on poses. Other editorial magazines will want three quarter length photos.
So I would recommend you do your research beforehand, write down all the looks you need to shoot so you can tick them off as you run through them on the day.
7. Preparing the hair One week before the shoot, I do the models’ hair colours. It’s difficult to do this before then as the models may have other jobs booked in between, which involve a lot of styling that could damage the colour. Once the colour is done, it’s a good idea to practice the style, see what works, what products we need to use and how well the hair will hold. We then make a list of all the styling tools and products required for the shoot.
8. On the day The art director is the link between the hairdresser, stylist, make-up artist and photographer. They will organise all the models to come in at different times and keep a close eye on making sure everything runs smoothly. They will also monitor the shots from the photographer to make sure they’re on target. It is important to work to schedule on the day and tick everything off your checklist as you go along. It would be frustrating to finish the shoot and find out a week later that you have missed one essential shot!
9. Post production Your work is not finished once the shoot is over! You will probably have around 900 photos and from those images you need only four photos of each model. When selecting your images, it's important to remember that the hair colour must be achieved through colouring and not Photoshop, although we can use retouching techniques on the skin to get rid of any blemishes. Always choose the shot where the hair looks amazing, the model looks fabulous, the light is just right and you think "wow!".
10. Show off your hard work! Display the photos in your salon, distribute to hair magazines and use them in all of your marketing material. Your clients want to see how creative you can be! See the images from my latest shoot on the next page.
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Rich Reflection Natural reflection of the light combined with the rich tones of a mediterranean summer was the core inspiration for mariadowling’s Fall 2014 collection
For this shoot, I was inspired by the warmth of the mediterranean sun and the natural reflective nature of daylight in a hot country. We shot the "Reflect" collection to give the feel of natural light, making the colours and styles more wearable than ever. Our clients want low maintenance, beautiful colour and styles, and we wanted the "Reflect" collection to show them what can be achieved regardless of their natural colour or hair type.
Brunette: Michelle’s naturally dark hair was given lift with subtle, but noticeable, honey tones under the hair, rather than dominating and flattening the top layer, using Wella Colour Touch 6/7 and 5/37 with 13 volume. Parallel slices were taken away on an angle, and strategically placed pieces that naturally fall with the shape of the hair were lightened with 20 volume and 9/36 toner.
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Blonde: Using Wella, this blond ombré was originally a full head of blonde highlights, before I coloured the top area, graduating the colour down the hair. This natural look was created with Colour Touch 7/71 and 8/71 with 13 volume. A backcombing technique was applied on the mid lengths, then with an application of Platinum Blue with 30 volume, the ends were lightened to give a wave effect on the colour.
Redhead: For this choppy “lob”, I created a soft ombré using L'Oréal 4.45 all over, in rich copper red. The hair was then dried and backcombed to get a soft effect on the colour at the ends. Pre-lightened slices were added and the ends were pre-lightened with 15 volume, taking it to an orange colour, before toning with a 7.44.
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Standing out
from the crowd One job, one hundred CV’s, how do you get noticed? Sally Hewerdine explains
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n a competitive job market, the reality is that sometimes
Dates
the difference between you being shortlisted for interview
Make sure your dates add up. If there are any gaps, it is better to
or not, could be as simple as an over-fussy curriculam
have an explanation for them rather than to ignore them or to
vitae (CV) format or a grumpy-looking photograph.
stretch and exaggerate the truth. It is perfectly acceptable to say
Imagine an all too real situation where you’ve applied for a job
you were actively looking for a role role, in between jobs or on
and a recruitment agency, or a potential employer, has to choose
maternity leave. Jobs that paid your way through university show
10 candidates to interview from a pile of 100 CVs. Fifty might be
forward planning and strength of character; they are relevant and
lacking in the right qualifications or experience, 10 might not be
show progression in your career.
physically here in the UAE, five could be male when the advert
Photographs
specifically asked for female, another five might have all the
Photographs should be current. While we tend to like the pictures
necessary requirements but the candidate has swapped and
of us 10 years ago it can be quite shocking to an employer to see
changed their jobs so much that they are too risky to employ.
you in the flesh if you look nothing like your picture. Warm and
That leaves you in a pile of 30 potential candidates. So how do
friendly photographs are more readily received, especially if you
you stand out and make the shortlist for interview?
are applying for a service role. You can smile! Grumpy faces
Give yourself the best chance you can by following some basic
portray grumpy people, even if that is not a true representation.
rules:
Subject line
Adaptation
If you are sending your CV through email, ensure that the subject
Many skills are transferable and your CV needs to be adapted to
line states your name and the role you are applying for. This
the role you are applying for, which may mean that you change it
makes it so much easier for the employer or recruitment agency
quite a few times - but the extra effort is worthwhile. Read the
to file and find you.
clues in the job description; if the advertisement is asking for
Personal contact information
people management then this skill needs to be brought to the
You will be surprised how many people fail to complete their
forefront in your CV. If the job description asks for sales skills, then
contact details, leaving it very difficult for you to be reached!
highlight your sales achievements, how you reached targets by
Interests
your awareness of the brand’s USPs, for example.
“Passive” interests such as cooking, reading or watching movies
Format
really are of very little importance to a job application. The
Avoid over fussy formats that are difficult to read. When choosing
majority of people love to do these activities. If you have relevant
a font, opt for Avenir or Calibri, in a size of 11 or 12, which are easy
information that shows your strength of character, such as
to read. If you wish to use colour make sure there is not too much,
volunteer work, team building events, marathon running or you
rainbow CV’s are distracting and look unprofessional. If you are
have published a book, for example, then include them. Otherwise
sending you CV to a recruitment agency it is better to have your
it is better to leave them out. PB
document in a Word format. Positive language Using positive language to highlight your experience will put you at an advantage. For example, “the role included working within a team, planning and organisation, as well as the necessity to provide excellent customer service to meet the guests’ expectations”. Work experience Place your most recent experience first and work backwards. If you have been working for a long time and have a long work history, choose to explain in detail the most relevant, or the most recent three roles. The remaining roles need to be added, but
Sally Hewerdine is a spa and wellness specialist with 25 years' experience. Her career has taken her around the world and has included a stint as a health and beauty editor in Dubai. Her recent passion is for training. This has inspired her to create “SpotlightOnSpa&Wellness”, a company designed to motivate and educate spa and wellness industry professionals. Her book, Driving Retail is available now, published by Lulu.
simply with job title, company name and dates.
If you would like to acquire the tools for job applications contact Sally, email: info@spotlightonspa-wellness.com
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Make-up
through the ages Renowned make-up artist Nina Xanthakou, brand ambassador for Jane Iredale, shares her secrets on how to advise clients on gorgeous make-up, no matter what their age
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hen it comes to make-up, you can’t always follow rules. You may have, for example, a 20-year-old law student who wants minimum, natural make-up and a 40-year-old fashion designer who loves full-on colour and glitter. The make-up should adapt with the character of the woman and their lifestyle. However, in general, these are my tips for applying and choosing make-up for women of different age groups:
20s
At this age, a client will normally have no skin proble ms u nless they have adult acne or oily skin. This age group doesn’t need a lot of make-up; they are not trying to fix a nything! Saying that, they may be inf lu enced by media a nd fashion so they may wa nt to try out some dra matic looks a nd ca n usually carry the m off! Ma ny women in this age group love pinks, peach a nd roma ntic colours. They ca n pull off nice, bronzed looks for the su mmer using shimmers. If they wa nt to use fou ndation, I would recommend a n oil-free formula. Despite their healthy-skins, it is still importa nt to recommend make-up or products that have a n SPF a nd this should be used every day, not just for the beach. Otherwise these clients will have proble ms from photoageing in 10 to 15 years' time.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
30s
In her 30s, a woma n’s require ments are totally different to in her 20s. She ca n still dare a nd wear colour a nd she normally still has the time a nd income to invest in her appeara nce, but lines are now starting to appear. Now she has to think a bout using more sophisticated products, a nd su nscreen is a n a bsolute must. Creating skin radia nce is one of her main goals when using make-up. She may be experiencing the first appeara nce of dark, u nder-eye circles a nd she should invest in a good moisturising, u nder-eye concealer. The product should also offer skin benefits, such as vita mins or ingredients that ca n reduce the circles, a nd it should be very sheer, not thick. In the 30s, the eyes are the feature that gets the most tired. Highlighter should be used on the cheeks to bring back some lost life. Women at this age are often entering the most confident period of their life a nd ca n still experiment with bright colours. Except the minor concerns of the first signs of ageing, woma n still have a lot of freedom with their make-up choices a nd ca n be bold.
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40s a nd beyond
From 40, women experience more lines a nd more skin pigmentation. Products should be chosen according to their benefits rather tha n just following trends. Women should never give up on using SPF. Now is the time to really invest in good products, especially fou ndations that give a lift. Using age defense products at 40 could mea n that when she is 50, a woma n will still look like 45, not 55. A good exfoliator should be used in the mornings to prime skin for a lifting fou ndation a nd this fou ndation product should contain a ntioxida nts to fight against pollution. We should start to minimise the use of glitters a nd shimmers, beca use these show up pigmentation a nd open pores a nd lines. On the eyes, satin colours are fine, but shimmers should be minimised to use on the inner tear duct, otherwise the eyes will appear heavier a nd more wrinkled. Use a matte colour on the cheeks. The pores here will have enlarged quite a lot by the time a woma n is in her 40s a nd a highlighter will accentuate the proble m. On the lips, we now have to think a bout adding moisture to our lipstick. We need to prime the lips first to prevent lipstick feathering. It’s also a good idea to start using a lip liner a nd to apply lipstick with a brush. If a woma n wa nts to use colour, it's better to usea coral or the sheer versions of red or pink. Now is the time to use careful contouring to correct imperfections a nd the right make-up choices will help women in their 40s a nd beyond, still look a nd feel fa bulous.
Nina’s top tips • Clean your brushes – the number-one cause of skin irritation is tools that are not disinfected – even if only one person is using the brush. You can disinfect with Jane Iredale brush cleanser or with a baby shampoo. You should advise customers to disinfect their own brushes every few days. • You don’t need hundreds of brushes. The Jane Iredale handy brush is very versatile, for instance, and you can do different work with it. I would recommend one brush for powder, one for blusher and two for the eyes; one flat for shading and one blending brush. • Blend eyeshadow using a neutral colour or a pink shadow or blusher to create a seamless effect • Have a flawless foundation. My favourite product is BB cream. You need beautiful skin first, before you can create the rest of a look. BB protects from the sun and it covers imperfections. I can’t leave the house with BB cream.
Nina Xanthakou is a professional make-up artist, originally from Greece, with more than 10 years' experience in the beauty and fashion circuits. She started her journey working for leading international make-up brands, and has collaborated with top photographers in Europe and theMiddle East for magazine editorials and photo-shoots. She moved to Dubai in 2010 and became the brand ambassador for Jane Iredale Cosmetics in the Middle East in 2013. Nina is now handling the regional business development of Jane Iredale. She also provides artistry training with Jane Iredale clients.
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Omani escape With its beautiful landscape and rich culture, Oman is becoming a haven for tourism. We speak to Hamad Aly spa manager at Zayna Spa, the Millennium Resort in Mussanah, to find out how spas can tap into this market How long has Zayna been operating? The Millennium Resort Mussanah was built for the second Asian Beach Games in 2010 and still retains the worldclass outdoor sporting facilities. The resort incorporates four swimming pools, one of which is a ladies only private pool (the first of its kind for a hotel in Oman), an 18-hole mini-golf course, tennis courts, beach football and volleyball courts. With children’s programmes and a secure play facility on site, the resort is an ideal getaway for the whole family. Zayna Spa opened in April 2014 to offer a wide range of massage and relaxation treatments from around the world. The spa offers express treatments lasting 30 minutes, as well as full day options, weekend spa packages and spa programmes lasting from five to seven days for guests staying at the resort.
Who makes up your client base? Guests have predominantly been from the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region. Last year, 70 per cent of of total guests at the hotel came from MENA countries and, of this, Omani visitors accounted for over half of the MENA market (57 per cent). Visitor numbers have increased dramatically in the last two years as more facilities become available. The resort recorded maximum occupancy during Eid Al Fitr with all 234 well-appointed rooms booked during the extended holiday period, an increase of 23 per cent from the same period last year and up by 80 per cent from 2012. The resort also set a new record during the Eid Al Adha holidays in 2013 by recording an increase in occupancy of over 27 per cent compared to the year before.
What is your background in the spa industry and why did you choose to come to Millennium Resort Mussanah? I’ve been working in the spa industry since 1994, starting as a masseur in Hotel De France in Vienna, Austria. I am originally from Egypt and have spent considerable time working in Europe but have always been attracted by the lifestyle and weather in Middle East Countries (UAE and Qatar). Spa as an established industry is moving further east with great growing potential as tourism expands, according to the world travel and tourism reports. The spa industry in the Middle East is developing in line with economic growth and Oman will be an upcoming market for many spa operators as tourism increases in prominence and availability.
The majority of travellers are looking to have a unique experience in each destination they visit and the spa is becoming a key part of their trip. Oman has not positioned itself as a spa destination unlike Thailand or Bali, but it has great potential and offers a pure experience. Guests can enjoy the untouched nature, hot natural spring, relaxing scenery with views of the Indian Ocean and Al Hajar mountains to complement the
spa holiday
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Tell us more about the treatments on offer Zayna Spa offers Pevonia among other brands. The Lumafirm Lift and Glow Facial, which combines the latest technology, anti-ageing extracts and peptides in a skinreconstructing wrap leaves guests looking and feeling youthful, radiant and toned. I've selected the most well-known and highly-requested treatments from around the world for our guests at Millennium Resort Mussanah. We offer a choice of reflexology, back massage, Thai massage, sports massage, head and neck massage, warm stone massage, Indian massage, Shiatsu massage, aromatherapy and Shirodhara therapy to relieve stress and embedded tension. Zayna Spa is also the only spa in Oman to offer traditional Omani treatments, including the Amber body glow for ladies and Oud body glow for men. Our menu of traditional and international treatments has also been designed to appeal to overseas visitors, reflecting the international clientbase of Millennium Resort Mussanah, which welcomed guests from over 95 nationalities last year. Our staff profile mirrors this approach and therapists have been selected from around the world, including Thailand, Germany and India to engage with guests and deliver specialist treatments for an authentic experience. We can also tailor treatments to suit each person’s requirement and provide holistic therapies, relaxation, medical, fitness and wellness treatments. The spa concentrates on the renewal of mind, body and spirit, and includes a Hamman, steam room, Jacuzzi, relaxation
lounge and sauna, and the resort has introduced outdoor fitness activities that include beach yoga, water aerobics and outdoor fitness, alongside personalised health programmes.
Tell us about the spa market in Oman Not so long ago spas concentrated on “pampering” treatments to relieve stress and relax. Nowadays, our clientele is looking for treatments that will improve their health and will boost their wellbeing. This significant change is evident in the menu of treatments on offer; some spas now only list the popular treatments and can customise therapies to suit the client’s needs when required. There are two main reasons for this; firstly simplifying the menu makes it easier for customers to select the treatment that has proven to be most effective, and, secondly the streamlined menu translates to lower operational costs at the spa, which makes the price of the treatment more affordable. Express treatments have also become a regular feature on spa menus, catering to first-time clients and allowing customers to fit short sessions into their busy lifestyles. The majority of travellers are looking to have a unique experience in each destination they visit and the spa is becoming a key part of their trip. Oman has not positioned itself as a spa destination unlike Thailand or Bali, but it has great potential and offers a pure experience. Guests can enjoy the untouched nature, hot natural spring, relaxing scenery with views of the Indian Ocean and Al Hajar mountains to complement the spa holiday. Guests visiting Oman are eager to explore a new destination, discover its culture, and traditions, and can now experience the new Zayna Spa at Millennium Resort Mussanah as part of their vacation. PB
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Perfect 10 Currently celebrating its 10th anniversary, Salinda Handa the brains behind the SensAsia spa chain lets Fiona Vlemmiks in on the secret of her success Please can you provide a brief history of the SensAsia story? It all started one day in the midst of the hustle and bustle of Hanoi, Vietnam. Lucky for me, I am a golf widow. While Kavit (my husband) played, I went in search of a lazy afternoon indulging myself. Right in the middle of the most glorious Shiatsu massages I have ever had, I almost ached at the thought of not being able to have the same experience when returned to Dubai. The idea struck to create my own sanctuary. At the time, I was working in concept design and business development for a large packaging company. I had a business and marketing degree so I knew how to “package” an idea and sell it. I just needed the ingredients to make the product work. I met Kavit back at the hotel that evening and was bursting at the seams, desperate to tell him my idea and hoping and praying he wouldn't crush it by laughing. He was extremely supportive of the decision, and I opened my first SensAsia Urban Spa at The Village, Jumeirah in September 2004. Now I am celebrating 10 years of SensAsia as a very proud owner of four Dubai spas and a team of 135 with big plans for even further, and wider, expansion.
How do you plan to mark your 10-year anniversary? We intend to celebrate it for a whole year! In terms of treatments, we have created the SensAsia “Best Of 10”, which brings back favourite treatments spanning a whole decade. Clients can pick and mix their own bespoke Best Of 10 packages and save up to 50 per cent off each of them. We are also running an in-spa selfie competition, encouraging clients to snap themselves, tag #SensAsiais10, and be in with a chance to win AED 850 worth of treatments and products when we pick a monthly winner.
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Outside of that, we have created an anniversary version of our gorgeous Signature Blend oil, and we’ll just be focused on continuing to do what we must have been doing so well to reach this landmark.
You have been called a “Mumtrepreneur,” how do you juggle such a demanding career with family life? There are good days and there are not so good days... It takes a little getting used to when kids came into the picture. Prior to that, I felt like I had all the time in the world to dedicate to my business. Ideas just came into fruition that much faster. But now my twin girls are almost six and in school until 3pm, it makes the world of a difference! I think the key is to find the balance yourself and stop letting the guilt of either work or the kids get to you. I just remind myself that I am doing the best I can and when one side needs me more, I give more.
You launched your Yummy Mummy club earlier this year. Why did you come up with this concept and how successful has this been? The Yummy Mummy Club was created because I felt very passionate about providing a pampering solution for pregnant women that would cover everything for them; offer escapism and leave them looking and feeling their very best at the most significant time in their lives. The extra support we offer with the club is there because it is just so reassuring to know that you aren’t alone in your fears and worries. Pregnant women will be able to discuss this for hours! Talk about these things with another, nonpregnant woman, even if she already has kids, and she will be yawning after 10 minutes.
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Having visited SensAsia, I was struck by the perfect customer service. How do you achieve this? How important is it to be customer-focused? I can’t think of anything more vital. We have lots of clients that have been coming to SensAsia since day one, and they now see visiting the spas in the same way they see visiting a long-term friend. Staff are trained to be efficient, but in no way over-facing, as there is nothing worse than an intrusive spa experience. I am extremely involved in the recruitment and training of every SensAsia staff member and my screening process and exceptional standards come from being the ultimate spa junkie myself. I am that hardto-please client.
How do you recruit and retain such good therapists? As everyone in the industry knows – good therapists are hard to come by! We use various avenues for recruitment. Referrals from exiting staff; recruitment agencies and word of mouth.
under our belts. We have tightened and streamlined our operations over the past few years to get ourselves ready to franchise. Our goal is to start with the GCC, then who knows! We are looking for master franchisees in larger countries with a lot of potential, like Saudi Arabia.
As you look back over the last decade, what do you feel has been your single greatest achievement? I think being asked to judge the World Spa Awards for the first time in 2011. That really gave me a feeling of legitimacy, like I had reached a new level. It’s one thing when your friends tell you that you have a successful business, but when the world’s industry experts ask for your opinion, it’s definitely a stamp of approval. PB
What is your USP in such a highlycompetitive market? I feel that our USP is that we are one of the only spa companies here [in the GCC] that is a chain. We are homegrown and we have several outlets where people can enjoy the SensAsia experience and know what to expect. Many of our treatments have been designed with clients’ and therapists’ input. We don’t go for the “fluff” such as a “kunadalini massage” that only a fraction of clients will find remotely interesting. We’d rather go with what clients really want, and need, and know they will enjoy. So we have a load of massages (14 to be exact) but they are all conceptualised, rather than designed, by our clients, which makes us special.
What is your future vision for SensAsia? We want to expand the brand geographically. We have had many franchising opportunities in the past but weren’t ready. We now know we are, as we have 10 years of experience
Salina Handa is managing director of successful GCC-based chain, SensAsia. Call +971 4 422 7 115
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
nail art
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We asked leading nail brands to get creative and come up with innovative nail ideas. Read on to see how you recreate the look on your clients seconds. Step 3 Apply a strengthening arch layer of soft, medium or hard gel over the entire nail. Use the Upper Arch Brush to smooth out any unevenness on the surface and cure for 30 seconds. Wipe to remove sticky residue. Finish with Gloss Gel. Cure for 30 seconds and remove sticky residue.
Biosculpture pretty in pink White Heart Diamond Nail Step 1 Apply Base Gel and cure for 30 seconds. Apply two coats of 2069, curing for 30 seconds in between coats. Step 2 Draw the heart with 01, add the stone and cure for 30
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
Pink and White Polkadot nail Step 1 Apply Base Gel and cure for 30 seconds. Apply two coats of 2069, curing for 30 seconds in between coats. Step 2 Draw the polkadots with a dotting tool, using 1. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 3 Apply a strengthening arch layer of soft, medium or hard gel over the entire nail. Use the Upper Arch Brush to smooth out any unevenness on the surface and cure for 30 seconds. Wipe to remove sticky residue. Finish with Gloss Gel. Cure for 30 seconds and remove sticky residue.
nail art
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Biosculpture seeing stripes
Biosculpture heart and polka dots
Red and Black French Nail Step 1 Apply Base Gel and cure for 30 seconds. Apply two coats of 94, curing for 30 seconds in between coats. Step 2 Draw the French line with two coats 2017. Cure for 30 seconds in between coats. Step 3 Apply a strengthening arch layer of soft, medium or hard gel over the entire nail. Use the Upper Arch Brush to smooth out any unevenness on the surface and cure for 30 seconds. Wipe to remove sticky residue. Finish with Gloss Gel. Cure for 30 seconds and remove sticky residue.
Polkadots Hearts Nail Step 1 Apply Base Gel and cure for 30 seconds. Apply two layers of 1 over the nail, curing for 30 seconds between layers. Step 2 Draw the hearts with 2027 and 94, curing for 30 seconds between designs. Make the dots with a dotting tool, 2027 and 94. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 3 Apply a strengthening arch layer of soft, medium or hard gel over the entire nail. Use the Upper Arch Brush to even out any uneveness on the surface and cure for 30 seconds. Wipe to remove sticky residue. Finish with Gloss Gel. Cure for 30 seconds and remove sticky residue.
Black and White Stripe Nail Step 1 Apply Base Gel and cure for 30 seconds. Apply two coats of 01, curing for 30 seconds in between coats. Step 2 Draw the heart with 94. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 3 Draw the stripes with 2017. Cure for 30 seconds. Step 4
Pink and RED nail Step 1 Apply Base Gel and cure for 30 seconds. Apply two coats of 94, curing for 30 seconds in between coats. Step 2 Apply two coats of 2027, curing for 30 seconds in between coats. Step 3 Apply a strengthening arch layer of soft, medium or hard gel over the entire nail. Use the Upper Arch Brush to even out any uneveness on the surface and cure for 30 seconds. Wipe to remove sticky residue. Finish with Gloss Gel. Cure for 30 seconds and remove sticky residue.
Apply a strengthening arch layer of soft, medium or hard gel over the entire nail. Use the Upper Arch Brush to even out any unevenness on the surface and cure for 30 seconds. Wipe to remove sticky residue. Finish with Gloss Gel. Cure for 30 seconds and remove sticky residue.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
nail art
55 Ciaté Crazy Colourfoil
Step 1: Apply two coats of Ciaté’s Pepperminty Polish to each nail and wait for the polish to fully dry. We recommend waiting about 10 to 15 minutes.
Step 2: Once the polish is completely dry, apply a thin layer of Ciaté’s Foil Fix to nails. Foil Fix acts as the glue that holds the foil to each nail, it’s a white glue when applied so make sure that is completely clear before you go onto the next step. Step 3: Take a gold sheet from the Ciaté kit and gently crumple, making sure that the coloured side is facing up. Keeping the foil in your fingers, place onto the nail, gently pressing down and then pull away. Repeat this step for each nail.
Lines from Gelish Step 1: Apply two coats of Jet Set and cure for 30 seconds in between coats. Using Arctic Freeze and a Striper Brush, apply a curved line on each side.
Step 2: Using Candyland Yellow and Green, create random blocks of colour between the lines. Step 3: Continue with the remaining four Candyland colours. With Arctic Freeze and your Gel Striper, add swirls inside the outside portions. Add thin shadows to the underside of your white lines using Diva, Black Shadow or any from the Shadows Collection.
Step 4: Finish your design using Arctic Freeze to add circles over the colour block section. PB
Step 4: Apply a coat of Ciaté’s Speed Coat Top Coat on each nail.
Gelish – Sawaya International call: +971 4 379 99 34 Bio Sculpture call: +971 4 341 48 20 Ciate – Beauty Solutions call: +971 4 374 69 70
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
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Skin science
As world-renowned brand QMS launches in our region, we catch up with the brains behind it, founder Dr Erich Schulte, to learn more Why did you decide to bring QMS to the Tell us why your line is based on collagen. Middle East? Collagen is indispensable for the beauty and health of the We have always had a strong following from this region for our products, so it is a pleasure that we can now offer our signature treatments through some select partners. QMS Medicosmetics is a collection that works in many countries but it is very well suited to the Middle East in that we can offer targeted treatments to tackle specific concerns such as hyperpigmentation or premature ageing, as well as everyday skin maintenance and improvement. My passion is the skin and in particular advancing the science of skincare to create both products and treatments that offer superior results and improve not just the appearance of the skin but also its health, to ensure younger looking skin for longer.
What is meant by the term Medicosmetic? I came up with “Medicosmetics” more as a name than a ‘term’ many years ago. One of my goals in creating a skincare range was to be able to offer specialist skin expertise and medical knowledge as a foundation for every day skincare for everyone. Something that was mid-way between the more traditional beauty cosmetics and prescriptive products. One of my London team says using the products is like having a “doctor” in the bathroom cabinet.
Why is QMS different to other skincare brands? I personally develop each product in my own laboratories, and key to each of these formulations is pioneering science. I firmly believe that advancing the technology used in the delivery techniques improves the effectiveness of the individual ingredients and the whole skincare product. I also have a very German, rational attitude and I believe logic not miracles makes great skincare. Each product in the range is designed to deliver results first and foremost. Our laboratories, production and distribution are all based in Germany, this allows us to produce in smaller quantities in order to ensure our products are as fresh as possible but we can dispatch very quickly around the world.
skin. It is also the most “at-risk” protein, the ravages of time and personal stresses are particularly damaging. The most effective skincare treatments should have the following goals – to maintain and improve existing collagen types I & III, stall degeneration and stimulate regeneration. There are numerous products available containing collagen, however most share the same disadvantage in that the collagen molecules are too large to penetrate into the epidermal layer. Nevertheless, treatment with these creams and lotions is not an entire waste of time as although the collagen only remains on the outer layer of the skin, it manages to display its “moisture catching” talents there. It prevents the precious moisture from evaporating by covering the skin in a protective film, thereby safeguarding the skin’s own collagen. As moisture can no longer escape, the skin swells up and fine lines disappear. The disadvantage is that as soon as the effects of the moisture storage diminish, the same fine lines return. For permanent skin rejuvenation the collagen needs to penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the epidermis. Only pure natural collagen is suitable, it must not contain any bacteria, germs or viruses. This led me to develop a special technique to condition natural soluble collagen molecules in a way that they can be reintroduced topically into the epidermal layers, thereby allowing the skin to regenerate and increase the capacity to retain more moisture. I call this structural conditioning the “TCP” factor and the transcutaneous penetration factor.
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
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This is the basis of our Day and Night Collagen products, these highly concentrated natural soluble collagen serums are formulated to address the loss of collagen and help the skin to keep youthful.
Tell us about the range of professional treatments QMS offers We offer a very comprehensive collection of treatments, each is defined by what they do for the skin. For example, our signature Collagen Rejuvenation helps to reverse the appearance of ageing by addressing the underlying cause, the loss of collagen. Our Skin Cell Renewal treatment enhances the stimulation of new skin cells and improves the overall skin metabolism. One of the best anti-ageing treatments is our Pure Oxygen facial, which has been uniquely developed to channel ingredients effectively, and intensively, into the skin using our Oxygen Concentrator Advanced. A more specialist treatment would be our Pigment Corrector that targets hyper-pigmentation. We have nearly 15 facial treatments and we can work closely with our partners to develop a bespoke treatment for their spa. Our body-focused treatment offering is also expanding as I have just finished developing some new professional body products.
Why are your spa partners achieving such great success with QMS? It is the fundamental efficacy of the QMS Medicosmetics products that ensures strong opportunities in sales. We have very few professional-only products so the benefits the client experiences during the treatment can continue if they purchase the same high-quality skincare to take home. We do not expect everyone to get rid of all their other products, but if a client buys our collagen and exfoliation sets, they often find that their other skincare performs better as their skin is in better health and more receptive. It is important to us to work closely with our partners, and education is key. Within our training programs we have retail sales techniques alongside the product and treatment education. PB
“Collagen is indispensable for the beauty and health of the skin. It is also the most “at-risk” protein, the ravages of time and personal stresses are particularly damaging”
Dr Erich Schulte, is founder of QMS Medicosmetics which is distributed in the Middle East by The Product House. To learn more call: +971 4 379 1966
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aromatherapy
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Scent of
success
With benefits to both body and mind, it is no surprise to discover that aromatherapy treatments and products continue to attract clients, says Zoe Moleshead
E
vidence suggests that the use of essential oils dates back over 5,000 years, yet the term “aromatherapy” was only coined less than a century ago, following several significant advancements in the area of alternative therapy. The first came on the flipside of misfortune, when French chemist Rene-Maurice Gattefosse was left badly burned following an accident in his lab. “Gattefosse took his medical care into his own hands and began applying pure essential lavender oil to his wounds and the results were astonishing,” reveals Lindi Higginbotham, Dermalogica’s Middle East educator. While Gattefosse began to publish and share his findings with like-minded individuals, fellow Frenchman Dr Jean Valnet began using essential oils to help treat injured soldiers from the First World War and for other medical purposes. As research continued into the area of aromatherapy, the use of essential oils to treat a multitude of body and mind ailments was fully explored with a host of promising outcomes. In fact, today’s practitioners detail a seemingly endless list of ways in which the use of essentials oils can benefit users. “Using oil or a product that is combined with the powers of essential oils can deliver outstanding results. They are believed to work in a way that helps maintain vitality while balancing the body systems that are involved in fighting infection and detoxification," says Joan Nguyo, training coordinator for Spa Resources International, which provides Elemis’ range of aromatherapy products. She adds that aromatherapy
oils can also enhance the mood, and give a general feeling of wellbeing. "They can also improve blood and lymphatic circulation, reduce pain, treat insomnia, stimulate and refresh, promote concentration and moisturise and nourish skin,” she adds. Geraldine Howard, co-founder and president of Aromatherapy Associates, which is distributed locally through The Product House, agrees. “On an emotional level, the aromas of essential oils have a dynamic effect – our sense of smell is linked to the deepest parts of the brain which govern basic instincts, memories and emotions," she explains. "On a physical level, because essential oils are made up of very small molecules they are able to penetrate into the bloodstream, helping to treat many problems such as stiff, achy muscles and improve the circulation. In skincare, by penetrating to the deeper layers of the skin, essential oils have a positive effect on the skin, optimising cellular renewal and enhancing blood circulation, addressing problems such as ageing and acne.” The belief that aromatherapy-based treatments are beneficial to both skin health and to aid the relaxation of muscles and mind also helps to explain their ongoing popularity among spa and salon visitors. Hefina Rees, spa manager of ShuiQi Spa at Atlantis The Palm says the spa’s top aromatherapy treatments, which include an Aromatherapy Associates Inner Strength Experience and Espa Totally Personalised Body Massage, are popular with spa clients. “Guests like the smell of the oils and it adds to the benefit of the treatment,” she adds.
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“On an emotional level, the aromas of essential oils have a dynamic effect – our sense of smell is linked to the deepest parts of the brain which govern basic instincts, memories and emotions”
Geraldine Howard, Aromatherapy Associates
Using oils to boost your business Both Howard and Nguyo underline the importance of using the best quality, therapeutic grade oils in order to achieve real results. Speaking on the Elemis range, Nguyo highlights that “all essential oils and plant extracts are of premium grade [and Elemis] only uses first extraction oils.” Aromatherapy oils are wonderfully versatile and can be used in a variety of treatments to give clients a bespoke experience. “With aromatherapy it is really important to ensure the right oils are selected to give the client the best possible results. At Aromatherapy Associates, we encourage a thorough consultation and a ‘smell test’, to make sure that the blend used in the treatment is most suited to the client’s needs on that day so they receive the best possible results,” says Howard. While the use of aromatherapy oils can easily be included into any spa or salon treatment, it is important that the oils used in treatments are pre-blended or already incorporated into a product. “The important thing to understand about essential oils is to never apply pure oils directly to the skin; a carrier oil should always be blended to safely treat the skin. Dermalogica makes use of hazelnut oil and avocado oil as the main carriers and wheatgerm oil acts as a natural preservative. We customise each blend for specific skin conditions with pure essential oils,” explains Higginbotham of the Dermalogica products, which are distributed locally through Healthcare LLC. Essential oil blends can be used in other ways within a spa or salon to relax and revitalise guests from the moment they arrive. Fiona Mackenzie, managing director of Cocoon Spa in Motor City Dubai, likes to diffuse oils in treatment rooms and to use them in footbaths. ShuiQi uses oil burners to as guests walk into the spa. Howard recommends aromatherapy candles as another means for infusing the oils into the environment, while Nguyo advocates their use in warm compresses. Whatever and wherever their use, aromatherapy products and treatments continue to be a spa and salon mainstay. Read our guide to some of the best professional products on the market.
Our pick of products: Aromatherapy Associates The range offers a comprehensive collection of therapeutic bath and shower oils, face, body and hair products, as well as a selection of candles. These include Deep Relax Bath & Shower Oil, Renewing Rose Body Oil, Overnight Repair Mask and the Rose Infinity Moisturiser, which contains nobel prize winning research to help protect and re-build telomere cells to support skin regeneration.
Dermalogica The range includes a retail product called Overnight Repair Serum which is part of its Age Smart range, which uplifts thanks to the calming rosehip oil fragrance. The serum is further enhanced with the additions of argan oil, jasmine oil and carrot seed oil, plus actives including peptides and seaweeds to help fight the signs of ageing.
Elemis Elemis treatments incorporate a range of aromatherapy products with plant essential oils and marine extracts mixed in natural bases, aimed at treating each person holistically. Products available include: Destress Massage Oil, Cellutox Active Body Oil, Musclease Active Body Oil, Quiet Mind Temple Balm, Elemis Eau de parfum, Sharp Shower Gel, TeaTree SOS Spray, Lime Essential Oil, Lavender Essential Oil and Rosewood Essential Oil. PB
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
treatment news
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65 Inner Strength at ShuiQi, Atlantis, The Palm
Strength and shine
Under the spotlight this month are an aromatherapy treatment, a spa pedicure and a shine-restoring hair treatment This month we tried… SPOTLIGHT: Aromatherapy Inner Strength Treatment
Associates
Skincare brand Aromatherapy Associates has devised its Inner Strength Treatment to help fortify, nurture and recharge the body and mind through times of extreme stress. The treatment commences with a frankincense inhalation, followed by a foot cleanse with heated mitts. A nourishing oil is then applied to hands and soles of the feet, followed by a paraffin wax. The back and legs are massaged with Inner Strength Body Oil, with ingredients including clary sage, frankinscense, to calm the mind, cardamom and rosemary to help fortify physical strength and rose and vertivert to heal and stimulate the circulation. Paraffin wax is then applied. The therapist then works on the face and scalp incorporating the use of hot stones and massage techniques designed to comfort and support.
Essie Spa Pedicure Essie’s pedicure system is the second part of its new launches targeting the spa market. I tried its Spa Manicure treatment earlier this year but was intrigued to test its foot-focused cousin, knowing that the massage element had been formulated by Michelle Rodriguez, physiotherapist to the New York Ballet. I was lucky enough to trial the treatment with Essie chief educator Emma Singh. It begins with a foot soak using the first of Essie’s new products, citrus-scented Foot Alert, followed by a scrub with On The Right Foot, which has milled walnut shell to buff away the stubborn skin on the feet. Then comes the clay mask, Leg Room, which is designed to draw out impurities. Emma applied it to my feet and calves, then wrapped them to let the mask work its magic for five minutes before removing with hot towels. This is designed to be deeply nourishing, as well as relaxing, and Emma applied cuticle oil to my toes several times. There are two products in the range designed to be used in the massage –Swept Off My Feet oil combines passion fruit, rose musk and apricot extracts to hydrate and is used on the legs, and Feet in the Clouds moisturiser is rich in shea butter for the feet. Emma topped off my treatment with a polish, using bright blue I’m Addicted from the new Neon collection, with a layer of white polish underneath to make the colour really pop. Tried by Lucy Douglas
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
Make-Up Atelier Paris
French Professional Make-Up Brand, Make-Up and Hair-Styling Education 3D Make-Up Highly Pigmented Products
Wide Range of Products
All skin Type and Shade
Long Lasting Textures Face Art
Perfection From Professionals! Tel: +971 4 457 9169 Mob: +971 55 511 9915 www.atelierdelight.com
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treatment news
67 This month we tried… Rahua Omega 9 treatment The lowdown:
Luxury hair care range, Rahua (pronounced Ra-wa), has just launched in the Middle Eastern market and I am keen to try my treatment at Posh Salon in the iconic Burj Al Arab. The brand is certified organic and contains nut oil, which is found in the Amazon rainforest. This Rahua nut oil is said to repair even the most damaged hair and has been used by Amazonian tribal women for centuries. My stylist, Temar, tells me that the key to Rahua’s outstanding performance is its small molecular structure, which, unlike other botanical oils that simply coat the hair shaft, is able to deeply penetrate the hair’s cortex, bonding and repairing it while simultaneously smoothing the cuticle. The products contain no silicone, sulphates or any other nasties”. It is also gluten free and certified organic. As well has repairing the hair, the range is able to treat a variety of scalp conditions including dermatitis and eczema. The mask is part of a collection that includes shampoos, conditioners, hair elixir, voluminous spray, hair wax and finishing treatment in professional and retail sizes. My hair is washed before the application of the mask, which has a clay-like consistency and is mixed with special Rahua oil before being applied to the hair. The product works its magic as I enjoy a wonderful head massage and heat is applied for five minutes to allow the product to penetrate. The mask, which smells fresh and aromatic, is then washed and Rahua styling products are applied before Temar styles my hair with a blow-dry that ensures I wouldn’t be out of place on the red carpet! PB Says: I was blown away by this treatment. I am growing out layers and the top layer is visibly damaged at the ends but these frazzled bits appeared much smoother and healthier after the treatment. I was left with amazing shine, which I sometimes find hard to achieve with my frizzy hair, and I was so impressed that I didn’t wash my hair for three days following the treatment - it still looked fantastic, clean and shiny and had a gorgeous aroma for this amount of time. Your clients will be hooked! Best for: All clients Tested by Fiona Vlemmiks
NEW: Phytomer Eye Perfect The Phytomer Eye Perfection Radiance Smoothing treatment is a new procedure that aims to smooth and lift the eye area. It uses a new specific eye massage, which combines the use of brushes and manual techniques. The treatment uses two new professional masks to target the signs of ageing, reducing the appearance of crow’s feet and wrinkles. Eyes are left awake and open and should feel fresher and relaxed, with puffiness and dark circles reduced and signs of fatigue diminished. Call Beauty Leaders: +971 2 676 46 00
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
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Turn back time
As Pevonia launches its long anticipated Stem Cell line, we talk to Dr Christian Jurist to find out why it has been worth the wait
“O
ther brands have been using stem cell technology for a while, but we wanted to wait until we got it right,” explains Dr Christian Jurist, medical director of global education for Pevonia, who is visiting Dubai for the launch of Pevonia stem cells Phyto-Elite line in the UAE. After several years of research, Pevonia is harnessing the power of two stem cell sources and a concentration of stem cells that they say is 5 to ten times higher than what is currently available on the market. “Up to now we’ve been working on ‘filling holes’, repairing skin, from the outside,” Dr Jurist told Professional Beauty. “Now, with this stem cell technology we can repair from the inside, which is much more effective.” Dr Jurist explains that in the body, stem cells have the remarkable potential to develop into many different cell types during early life and growth. In addition, they serve as a sort of internal repair system, dividing without limit to replenish other cells. When a stem cell divides, each new cell has the potential either to remain a stem cell or become another type of cell with a more specialised function, such as a muscle cell, a red blood cell, or a brain cell. As we age, our stem cells become more sluggish. Dr Jurist is quick to point out that the range doesn’t involve “transferring anything into the body”. “Pevonia’s products use plant stem cells, not to transfer stem cells into the skin, but the botanical stem cells trigger our own human skin cells to work, repairing skin tissue and prolonging the life of our skin cells. We’re enhancing and repairing what is already in the body.” Specifically, the line uses two natural resources for skin rejuvenation and repair – the argan tree and the European comfrey root. In a clinical test, using females with an average age of 49, the topical application of a
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
cream containing 0.4 per cent argan stem cells on crow's feet for 56 days revealed a 26 per cent reduction in wrinkle depth. Stem cells from the European comfrey root, also known as symphytum stem cells, work at the epidermal layer of skin, speeding up skin renewal and acting as a new growth bonding agent to improve epidermal thickness and naturally increasing hyaluronic acid content, which lends strength and flexibility to the skin. In a similar clinical test, women between the ages of 40 and 60 applied a cream containing the symphytum stem cell, twice daily for 56 days. The results revealed a 12 per cent improvement in skin smoothness. The range comprises a professional treatment – the Pevonia Stem Cells PhytoElite FreezeDried Treatment and three products; the Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Multi-Active Foaming Cleanser, the Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Intensive Serum and the Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Intensive Cream. Alongside the stem cell range Pevonia has also launched it’s Lumablanc cream, an intensive solution to hyperpigmentation and dark spots. It features a Pevonia-exclusive retinol delivery system for enhanced results. The product is part of the Lumafirm Lift & Glow anti-aging collection but will working in synergy with the stem cell products. PB
Pevonia is distributed in the UK by Momentum Beauty. Call: + 971 4 334 3823
The results aft er using the pro duct for 56 days.
Before
product news
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70 Gharieni Group Elegant, practical and mobile, the new CL Trolley offers ample storage with three drawers at the rear. There is also a device for facial tissues and the trolley has been designed so that it can move quietly and be unobtrusive in treatments. The trolley is available in a variety of design options. Visit www.gharienet.de
Rich pickings We highlight a range of new products for your beauty, hair and spa needs
Anne Semonin The White Star range offers the ultimate solution against brown spots and pigmentation. The Brightening Serum is made from the brand’s Brightening Complex: a blend of advanced vitamin C , sea flower and brown algae. The serum visibly lights up the complexion and reduces the appearance of sun and age spots to unveil a more even skin tone. Its detoxifying antioxidants also neutralise damage from air pollutants while sea-sourced minerals and moisturisers will keep client’s skin glowing. Call The Product House: +971 4 379 19 66
Thalgo The new collagen range from Thalgo is designed for women with fine lines and wrinkles. With use of the smoothing, highly moisturising Collagen Cream, fine lines will be diminished and the skin plumped out. This cream can be applied either on its own or after the line’s collagen concentrate. Call Madi: +971 4 338 27 73
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
Nashi The Nashi argan range is based on Bio Certified Argan oil. The environmentallyfriendly products are suitable for all hair types. They are packaged with recyclable materials and produced from renewable energy sources. The oil contained in the products is 100 per cent bio-certified. The argan oil product repairs, nourishes, detangles and gives shine to the hair. It can be used professionally or retailed to your client in both 30ml and 100ml sizes. Call Madi: +971 4 338 27 73
product news
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73 GK Hair The GK Hair Shaping Wax is lightweight, durable and repels water and oil providing a hold. The versatile product enables to you create a separated look, or add shape and a shiny finish to an up style with its medium, workable hold. The product is formulated with beeswax, candelilla wax and GK hair patented Juvexin – a keratin anti-ageing protein blend, optimised to restore and protect the hair from the inside out, returning it to a more youthful state. Call JS International: +971 4 44 72 806
Novalash Novalash’s latest range of lash extensions is the faux mink Novaminx mix. There are three lengths of lash in the set, to allow for a more natural look. The application technique used for these lashes allows for faster application time, while the prices for treatment can be set about 20 per cent higher. Call Madi+971 4 338 27 73
Ciate The Ciaté sultry colours in the new Haute House collection are perfect for autumn and winter. The glossy, ink shades, will allow for a glamorous manicure with richly-pigmented polish formulas that easily glide onto nails in just two coats. Inspired by luxe lingerie labels, the Haute House collection has five shades: Knee Highs (royal blue); Sass Pot (liquified lightning purple); Tickle my Fancy (rich emerald); Can Can (deep burgundy); and, For the Frill of It (molten gold). Call Beauty Solutions Trading +971 4 374 69 50
RG Cosmetics The RG Cosmetics Professional BB Crème, dubbed hair botox, offers an all-in-one solution for your stylists and clients. A true multi-tasker, the cream works to reconstruct the hair while fortifying it and protecting from heat. It is very effective post-colour to add shine and can be used alone or as an enhancer for other products in the RG Cosmetics range. Call Cosmetica on: + 971 4 239 46 66
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
product news
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75 Jane Ireldale Where There’s Smoke is a collection of t make-up inspired by the excitement of the festive season. The limited edition Smoke & Mirrors Smoky Eye Kit holds eight shades and a “how-to” guide to allow clients to create their favourite smoky eye looks. The highly pigmented shadows are simple to blend, sensitivity-tested, and offer long-lasting eye colour. The eight shades include: Nude; a shimmery medium pink, Champagne; a matte warm neutral, Smoky Grey; a matte medium grey, Cappuccino; a matte light brown, Dark Suede; a matte deep brown, Aubergine; a matte deep aubergine, Sizzle; a shimmery gold-flecked black and Charcoal; a matte deep grey. The collection is packaged in a travel box with a mirror and dual-ended application brush. Call Healthcare: +971 4 447 76 36
Essie Essie’s six-strong Winter collection of polishes hits the market this month, with bright, girly shades for the festive season. There is a spectrum of pinks, ranging from a pastel coral to a deep raspberry, plus a creamy milk shade and sparkling silver. The nail brand is also launching gift boxes that hold two polishes, to let salons make up bespoke gift sets this festive season. Call L’oréal +971 5 6605 5079
Voya Organic skincare brand Voya has launched a body oil to nourish and deliver minerals to the skin with the help of its powerful seaweed actives. Angelicus Serratus oil is designed to purify and cleanse, as well as improve skin suppleness and elasticity. Other actives in the formula include rosehip and evening primrose oils to target signs of ageing and cell structure, plus vitamin E and sunflower oil to nourish. Call The Product House +971 4 379 19 66
Jessica Jessica’s fall collection, New York, offers up some simpler and bolder shades. Its take on the season’s favourite green hue is the brighter, grassy Meet Me At The Plaza, and there is a rich indigo called Blue Harlem, the creamy blue-grey NY State of Mind and chocolate saucey Mad For Madison, as well as the classic rose pink Soho In Love. The standout shade of the collection is the vibrant, party red Broadway Bound. Call Cosmetica +971 4 239 46 66
Professional Beauty GCC November 2014
HERMS COSMETICS CO.LLC Tel : 971 4 2666946 / Fax : 971 4 2668224 info@kontargroup.com / P O BOX 7948 DUBAI, UAE
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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
SUPPLIES
TO ADVERTISE CALL +971 (0)437 57300
DISTRIBUTORS
Acumen International Trading Cosmetics Tel. 04 3212381 fax. 043212382
Cosmetica Beauty and Personal Care Equipment Trading Tel. 04 2394666 www.cosmeticatrading.com ali@cosmeticatrading.com
BEAUTY PROFIT SUPPLY LLC. Dubai, UAE P.O. Box 215339 www.beauty-profit-supply.com T: +971 4 341 8851 F: +971 4 341 8522 M: +971 55 92 0166
Areej Al Noor General Trading +971 4 2579272 Khalid Abdul Ghaffar Building Next to Al-Tawwar Centre Al Qusais, Dubai Office number 208
The Most Effective Method in the World for Targeted Body Shaping, Fat Burning, Cellulite Reduction and Weight Loss.
FOR BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES, CONTACT: Allison Pickford, HYPOXI® Training Equipment L.L.C. M: +971 50 851 7519 T: +971 4 363 8318 E: allison.pickford@hypoxi.com W: www.hypoxi.com
HERMS COSMETICS CO.LLC Tel : 971 4 2666946 / Fax : 971 4 2668224 info@kontargroup.com / P O BOX 7948 DUBAI, UAE
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Call us on +971 (0)437 57300 or email info@professionalbeauty.ae
A New Era of All Natural Skin Brightening Treatments
BLEMISH CREAM effectively lighten many different types of Skin Discolorations including Sunspots, Hyperpigmentation, Melasma & Birthmarks. INTIMATE CREAM effectively brighten one’s sensitive areas such as the genitals. Areolas, anus, knees, elbows, & under arms. SCAR & REPAIR CREAM improve the appearance of Post-Surgical Scars, Acne Scars, Burn Scars, Caesarean Section Scars, & Traumatic Scars. Burj Khalifa Area • Business Bay • Prism Tower • Office 1306 • T: +971 4 438 7747 • Dubai, UAE E: info@biofade-me.com • www.biofade-me.com • biofade-me • biofademe
RECRUITMENT
REQUIRED Sales Executives (FEMALE) By A Leading Beauty Products Distributor Company in Dubai Specializing in Hair Care / Hair Loss Products
Distributed by Dead Sea Sense JLT, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 3623105 info@deadseasense.com www.c-products.com
Candidates with experience of 3 – 5 years in UAE market Selling Beauty Products to Salon and/or SPA “Attractive Salary + Commissions package offered” May send their Resume to
jobs@vivandi.ae
Facial Care Body Care Hammam Foot Care Hair Care
• FDA approved in the USA • Certified by EU Health Authorities
Do you want to be part of the dynamic Pastels Salon team? Established in 2004 Pastels Salon, comprising of three branches in the city's most exclusive areas are Dubai's premier hair and beauty salon group. Known for their creative team and friendly customer service Pastels Salon will launch their fourth Dubai branch located in the prestigious Dubai Polo Club and are now searching for a dynamic Senior Stylist to be part of the Polo Club team. The ideal candidate will have a minimum of five years' experience, passionate about their craft and have excellent communication skills. If this sounds like you or you know anyone who would like to be part of the Pastels team email your CV with a brief outline of why you should be considered for the post to
hairflair888@gmail.com
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Diary dates JANUARY 30 – FEBRUARY 2 IMCAS The Palais de Congrès de Paris, France. The 16th annual International Master Course on Ageing Skin offering an overview on the latest developments in plastic surgery. www.imcas.com/en FEBRUARY 22 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AND WORLD SPA AND WELLNESS AWARDS The Brewery, London The biggest awards event for the spa, beauty, nails and make-up industries. www.professionalbeauty.co.uk FEBRUARY 22-23 PROFESSIONAL SPA & WELLNESS CONVENTION ExCeL London The convention will see top-level international spa owners share their experience of operating a successful spa. www.professionalspawellness.com
January 28-30 BEAUTY ASIA Suntec, Singapore International Convention & Exhibition Centre, Singapore Trade exhibition for the beauty and wellness industry. Incorporating SpaAsia, HealthAsia and NaturalAsia, this annual four-in-one showcase offers the chance to meet with distributors, see product demonstrations and visit educational workshops. www.beautyasia.com
Don’t Miss... JANUARY 25 -26 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GCC Madinat Jumeriah, Dubai The inaugural Middle Eastern edition of the Professional Beauty Show, dedicated to spa, hair and beauty businesses operating in this region. See the newest products and treatments, network with key industry people and attend the educational seminars. Alongside the show, will run the first GCC Professional Spa and Wellness Conference offering unparalleled networking opportunities with leading lights from the GCC region. www.professionalbeauty.ae
SEND US YOUR DATES Send us details of any events you are planning via email to Ú news@professionalbeauty.ae