Keeping you up to date
FAT GRAFTING Alternative Facial Rejuvenation
INNOVATE
Global Wellness Trends
Collagen Banking A new way forward
April 2021
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In this issue... Regulars 8 Collagen banking 10 Business check list 13 Vaginal rejuvenation 20 The role of data in business 16
Innovate, innovate, innovate
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Clubhouse explained
23 Sustainability 24 Rejuvenation in reverse 7 Fat grafting 28 The role of data
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The Conference
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We had an event! Aesthetic Medicine’s 1st physical event since pandemic, sold out.
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Professional Beauty’s 1st physical event since pandemic, sold out Held on 12 April at Johannesburg’s Bryanston Country Club, the Aesthetic Medicine Conference & Exhibition was the first physical event to be hosted by Professional Beauty since March 2020. Says Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods: “Says Professional Beauty commercial director, Phil Woods: “We were absolutely delighted to finally be able to host a physical event and many delegates commented how nice it was to be able to attend an actual, non-virtual event, especially in such picturesque surroundings. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Professional Beauty has not been able to host a physical event for over a year, so it’s great to be back.
online @ probeauty.co.za
“The Aesthetic Medicine Conference & Exhibition attracted a good number of delegates, all in accordance with social distancing regulations. Our conference coordinator, Karen Ellithorne, convened a number of top speakers and the main theme was collagen production and skin rejuvenation.” Motivational speaker, Paul Du Toit, added interesting dynamic to the event by talking on how to shift your mindset, something that is really needed in these challenging times. Du Toit stressed that it is often a simple decision that will lead to a change in mindset, resulting in a shift in our lives. “Once a brain accepts an idea, we no longer question it and in our minds, that idea is now a fact,” explained Du Toit. “That’s the basis for a belief and the start of entrenchment. Mindsets become problematic when they limit our desire to try something different.
“The foundation for any change is perseverance – you need to be persistent and you need to make the effort to make the change. A mindset shift requires a decision to change long held beliefs.” Clinical dietician, Tabitha Hume, gave a fascinating presentation on how the foods we eat affect skin ageing. She spoke about how certain foods, such as cured
and braaied foods, can cause oxidative stress on the skin. Some foods, such as animal proteins, can induce an inflammatory effect on the skin. Hume also focused on the effects of insulin resistance on the skin and body. Andrew Best presented on the skin rejuvenating and skin tightening effects of light- and energy-based devices, such as lasers, radiofrequency, LED, infrared and ultrasound. Trevor Steyn spoke about the skin microbiome and the use of live probiotics in skincare and facial treatments, while Dr Anastasia Botha demonstrated the use of dermal fillers for plumping up the skin and improving the appearance of wrinkles. Adele Kruger and Joanne Staniforth each spoke about new skin rejuvenation technologies. Practice owner and manager, Lourette du Toit, presented on the intricacies of running an aesthetics clinic, and the sensitivity required when dealing with both clients and staff. Dr Judey Pretorius focused on the best ingredients for stimulating collagen production in the epidermis. A number of exhibitors had table top stands at the Aesthetic Medicine Conference. They were: Best Lasers; Radiant Healthcare; The Hitech Group; BTL Medical SA; SunSkin; H2glow; SIX Aesthetiix; CosmoProf; and Medi Aesthetic Solutions.
The Exhibitors
Best Lasers Brands: Alma Lasers www.bestlasers.co.za Email: reception@bestlasers.co.za Best Lasers is the sole SubSaharan Africa distributor for Alma Lasers - a global developer and manufacturer of laser, light-based, radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical applications. We expose our clients to the philosophy of being laser specialists & enhance their understanding of the science & technology behind beauty.
BTL Medical SA www.btlaesthetics.com Email: sucansky@btlnet.com BTL Industries designs and manufactures non-surgical machines for the aesthetic medicine that represent the best devices in body reshaping, anti-
aging, cellulite treatment. aesthetic gynaecology, lymph drainage and IPL. BTL also introduced a new HIFEM technology to treat incontinence and to build muscles.
CosmoProf Brands: Dermagenetic, Skin Analysis System, Ablase, Fraxpen, Or Light, Serenity www.CosmoProf.co.za info@CosmoProf.co.za Distributors of and Trainers in Medical Aesthetic devices and products including Lasers, IPLs, LEDs, Plasma Fibroblast, Micro & Nano Needling, Skin Analysis Systems, and a range of Quantum Therapy-based Cosmeceutical & Pharmaceutical Peels & Cocktails. Please visit our stand to view demonstrations of the ABLASE Method Plasma device.
online @ probeauty.co.za
The Exhibitors
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The Exhibitors
H2-Glow www.spaandsalonsolutions.com info@spaandsalonsolutions.com H2-Glow uses the latest hydra technology to revolutionise the future of skin care treatments. Suitable for all skin types, H2Glow not only helps improve your skin’s appearance, but also restores your skin’s health – make you look and feel great. This cutting edge treatment is supported by advanced active products and recommended athome care, so you never lose that salon glow.
The Hitech Group www.hitechlasers.co.za Email: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za The Hitech Group, founded in 1974, is a laser supplier in the Aesthetic, Surgical, Ophthalmology and Research fields in South Africa and Africa. Because we are a distributor for more than one manufacturer and not tied to (any) one manufacturer, we select, amongst the most cutting-edge technologies, those that offer clinically proven efficacy, patient safety, and the best possible
investment for patients and professionals. The combination of best-in-class technology plus personalized multi-level support and with relentless attention to patient outcomes, we aren’t your typical aesthetic device company. From DEKA, Italy, international leader in development of innovative laser systems we offer the unique RedTouch, specifically designed for Collagen Rejuvenation. Our clients know they can Trust the Leader.
Medi Aesthetics Solutions www.masolutions.co.za sales@masolutions.co.za Medi Aesthetics solutions prides itself on providing medical ce & fda approved equipment into the sa market that provide clincal and scientifally proven results at an affordable price.
Radiant Healthcare Brands: Candela, Cocoon medical, GSD, IskraMedical , Newpong , Leasemedica, Zerone, Quantificare, Estek Medical , Ecleris. www.radianthealth.co.za
jacques@radianthealth.co.za South Africa’s leading Aesthetic & Medical equipment distributor. Established in 2004, Radiant Health has been on a mission to supply the South African market with the latest technology, transparent and friendly service as well as equipment to suit every need. From Body shaping, Laser & IPL, Skin & Body Analysis to intimate rejuvenate systems.
SIX Aesthetix Brands: SIX Aesthetix www.sixskincare.com info@sixskincare.com Come be introduced to a whole new era of revenue opportunities for your aesthetic business practice! Visit our interactive demo area for some innovative treatment techniques and groundbreaking aesthetic technology: Collagen Induction Therapy, Plasma Wave, Dermaplaning and Microhydrabrasion. Buy one device get 10% discount and 10% in FREE retail stock Buy two devices and get 25% discount and 25% in FREE retail stock
Sun Skin/ Sun Kidz Hanlie Burger online@sunskin.co.za www.sunskin.co.za Knowledge about the sun, environment and the ingredients in the products are important. Product knowledge will empower all family members to understand the importance of skin care. The long term skin damage is caused by environmental elements ea. the sun, dust, pollen, sweat, smoke, pollution, etc. The main contributor to skin aging is the sun. The sun contributes about 80% to the skin aging process. Skin aging can be controlled. The controlling elements are; knowledge, routine, products (ingredients) and controlled exposure to the sun. The concentration of the ingredients in the SUNSKIN product range is formulated in coherence with the delicate and sensitive skins.
First Target is Collagen A unique new system specifically designed for
Collagen Rejuvenation REDTOUCH by DEKA is the first system that uses a Specific Wavelength (675nm) that acts selectively on Collagen Fibres. REDTOUCH acts directly on the collagen contained in the dermal layer. REDTOUCH Strengths:
APPLICATIONS:
• Advanced answer in Skin Photorejuvenation techniques • NO side effects • Wide use in dermatology and aesthetics • Non-invasive & painless • NO downtime
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www.hitechlasers.co.za +27 12 349 1250 F: HitechGroupSA
Non-Ablative Skin Photorejuvenation Facial Wrinkle Reduction Benign Pigmented Lesions Skin Laxity
Collagen banking Aesthetic treatments come and go, with scientific, medical and technological advancements improving progress on a daily basis, writes Karen Ellithorne
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o many consumers who have never actually experienced an aesthetic treatment, even mentioning the possibility that the results could be natural looking might seem like a complete contradiction. Images of overdone looking celebrities with trout pout lips and puffy skins immediately come to mind. There is much truth to be said about ageing gracefully. However, ultimately in reality we can only look like a good version of our age, or a bad version. This is no-matter how much aesthetic intervention we have engaged in. What most consumers are currently seeking is enhancement and not alteration. We would like our friends to still recognise us when they see us after a long period of time.
Injectables Consumers are all well aware of the wrinkle-reducing properties of injectables like botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid fillers. While this treatment has its place and instantaneously makes our wrinkles and fine lines disappear, it does not have any benefit on our underlying skin condition and health. However, it is important to mention that some of the newer fillers on the market have
evolved tremendously and do have additional collagen building ingredients. Botulinum toxin has many positives and certainly a place in aesthetics in that it can prevent hereditary expression lines from forming. There is, however, the risk that if your practitioner is not highly skilled and does not understand the facial muscles well, that you could possibly develop lines in other areas that would not normally form, or that you could end up looking expressionless.
Devices and treatments In my opinion, when it comes to skin rejuvenation, the natural look is far better achieved through the use of aesthetic devices and regular, high-quality aesthetic skin treatments.
What most consumers are currently seeking is enhancement and not alteration. These types of treatments help to keep the skin functioning adequately, boosting everything from collagen production to improving skin brightness. All while still having the ability to
Image by May Wesley from Pixabay
reduce pigmentation, red veins and inflammation. Below we take a look at just some of the available treatments and how they improve the functioning of the epidermis. Although I only have space to mention a few, there are many other products and devices in the South African market that can assist in keeping the skin’s ‘collagen bank’ full and prevent any reverse ageing.
Cosmelan and Dermamelan This treatment from Mesoestetic is an effective hyper-pigmentation management programme, consisting of both professional treatment and home care. The protocol will be tailored to your client’s skin condition by a professional skincare aesthetician or aesthetic doctor. Cosmelan and Dermamelan is used to treat hyperpigmentation, a very common skin disorder
especially with our outdoor lifestyles in South Africa. Hyperpigmentation presents itself in brown patches, often found on the hands and face, leaving the skin blotchy and uneven. It is caused by a genetic predisposition, hormonal influences (such as pregnancy, menopause and oral contraceptives) and exposure to the sun. The beauty of this treatment is that not only does it treat hyperpigmentation, but also has a wonderful rejuvenating effect on the entire application area. It is also beneficial in the following ways: compatible with all skin photo types; ideal for acne scaring; can be applied onto the face, décolleté, hands and body; and is minimally invasive. Cosmelan and Dermamelan contain the same active ingredients to treat hyperpigmentation, however Dermamelan is slightly stronger. Mesoestetic has also recently launched Dermamelan Intimate. The depigmented action is complemented with an anti-ageing function, making it a unique, all in one treatment for intimate rejuvenation. It is important to note that the maintenance period of a Cosmelan and Dermamelan treatment for a client to get the ultimate result is 12 months.
Elaine Brennan Peel This particular peel was formulated by an ex South African, Elaine Brennan, who ran a very successful clinic in Rosebank for many years. The company is currently being run by her daughter, who resides in the USA. The Elaine Brennan Peel is based on resorcinol and salicylic acid and helps to treat and lessen deep seated wrinkles, scarring, unseen blemished skin, acne, hyper pigmentation and many other skin conditions. This treatment can also be applied right under the eye and onto the
Image by Engin Akyurt from Pixabay
eyelids. Downtime is seven days, but it is perfectly safe to treat all photo types with no risk of rebound pigmentation. I have noticed that this particular treatment is very useful to offer to more mature clients, who are not necessarily interested in injectables, but just want to do something for themselves by rejuvenating their skin and feeling more confident.
BBL SkinTyte A BBL Photo facial is a corrective phototherapy treatment that uses broadband light (BBL) to target signs of ageing, sun damage and other skin conditions. This process will restore your skin to its natural beauty, making it clearer, smoother and more vibrant. SkinTyte BBL light therapy firms skin and can remove wrinkles and fine lines over time, rebuilding skin from the inside out for smoother, younger-looking skin. It can also be used to treat wrinkles, fine lines and sagging skin with no recovery or downtime.
Pre-treatment prep As aestheticians, we are all well aware of the importance and
advantages of preparing the skin prior to treatment. The better you prepare the skin in the six weeks leading up to the treatment, the lower the risk of inflammation and discomfort for the client. Prepare the client’s skin well with vitamin C and low level AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids) or retinol. These ingredients are to be used by the client as part of their homecare treatment. Then, most importantly, the application of an effective SPF before and after the treatment. More and more skin savvy patients have begun to recognise the benefits of investing in their skin’s ‘collagen bank’ for better quality, more natural looking skin. Non-invasive treatments such as those mentioned above enable the skin to remain naturally lifted and defined, with a much more natural looking jawline and brow.
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
The 2021 Business Checklist MARISA DIMITRIADIS of The Spa Professionals Guild provides valuable guidance on how salons and spas can plan out their year for success I would like you to think back to a time when you received, or started, something new. Perhaps a new car, perhaps when you went to university or college for the first time, or perhaps when you started your business. Can you describe the feelings and your mindset at the time? Excited, happy, a little nervous, full of ideas, explorative, eager, open to learning and so many more words that
we could use to describe how you felt. So, as you read this Business Checklist, I would like you to take yourself back to one of those ‘new’ moments in your life because, as we venture into a new year, how you begin the year, as well as your mindset, will play a critical role in how your year will roll out. Something else that I want you to remember is that business is constantly
evolving so, in order for your business to survive and grow you will need to evolve. Build on what is working and evolve or adapt where you see opportunity. Don’t close your mind to new things; now more than ever is the time to have an open mind and experiment with change. Below you will find a simple checklist where you can measure how you are doing monthly.
YES 1. Set revenue targets (retail and services) for the year If you don’t have a goalpost how will you score a goal? Targets or goals are there to give direction and purpose. Everyone NEEDS direction and purpose!
2. Daily Business Analysis If you are not measuring your business daily with this simple tool, how do you know how to steer the ship? It is impossible to have clear direction and know where to go without daily analysis. This is a MUST.
3. Marketing Plan for the Year This should have been done by September last year already but better late than never. Start with the biggest spend days of the year and holiday seasons and then fill in your gaps. So, Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day, Father’s Day, etc. Work with your brand partners to create ‘promotions bundles’ to boost revenue.
4. Training Plan for the Year This is an absolutely critical management tool that has the ability to triple revenue if you run it correctly and carefully. Training inhouse should happen weekly for at least two hours. Product training should happen at least once a month per brand that you stock, whether online or inhouse done by an external trainer. If your training times and dates are set and planned, they will happen and you will see the results.
5. Staff Daily Huddles and Weekly Meetings These are not negotiable. Run effective, quick daily huddles and structured weekly meetings to yield huge results.
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Image from Pixabay
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6. Therapist Daily Planners Another tool to ensure staff are focused and planning for success. Key here is consistency and creativity to get the planners from being good to being brilliant
7. Brand Partner Strategy Meeting Meeting with your brand partners to discuss a 6-month strategy, staff incentives and training. Your brand partners are the second most important to the success of your business after your staff, so don’t take this for granted and ensure you are getting the service, ideas and margins you need to grow.
8. Invest in growth Consumers are looking for quicker and more instant results with no downtime. Ensure your growth investment can yield a return within six months, or don’t invest.
9. Create experiences in your treatment offering Consumers are looking for experiences and memories, not just treatments. Look at where you can enhance your current treatment offering to create memorable experiences.
10. Is your ONLINE presence growing? Don’t take your foot off the pedal with online. It is the future. Online vouchers should be contributing 20% of your monthly revenue and online product sales another 20%. If not, relook at your strategy and focus on this.
11. Invest in your growth and learning Are you currently, as manager or owner or therapist, learning anything new and enrolled in any course? When last did you do a business course? Or a management course? Or a sales course?
12. Social Media Strategy Plan The world of social media is so powerful but can also be useless to your business if not used correctly and efficiently. Ensure you have a social media partner, or enroll for a course specific to the beauty industry social media.
13. Client Survey Time There is no better way to get feedback on where you doing great and where you need to do better than to ask your clients. Make the survey easy and quick to complete with just clicks and not too much writing. Drive the survey responses by running a competition. Surveys are necessary and super powerful if you analyse the results and act on them. If you have not completed any of the checklist items yet then BE ACCOUNTABLE and give yourself a deadline to complete it. I would advise not longer than two months as that will take you into the second quarter of the year already. If you want to see results from this, start sooner, implement quickly and measure daily. My wish for you is that you embrace change and invest in learning.
Marisa Dimitriadis is the founder of The Spa Consultants and co-founder of The Spa Professionals Guild, a training network for the industry. Email marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Tightening the intimate area
Non-surgical vaginal rejuvenation using energy- and light-based machines has become an increasingly popular treatment at aesthetic clinics. Here we look at some leading systems on the market
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Child-bearing, hormonal changes due to menopause, weight fluctuations and the simple process of ageing leads to laxity in the female genitalia. Light- and energy-based devices can be used for skin tightening purposes in the area and to stimulate collagen.
Functional Magnetic Stimulation Iskra Medical, a Slovenian medical company founded in 1992, invented the ground breaking technology known as Electromagnetic Stimulation – later renamed to Functional Magnetic Stimulation or FMS. The FMS propagates through clothing, skin and bone and penetrates deep into the muscle
and causes deep and constant muscular contractions which follow the exact parameters of the FMS treatment – as many as 50,000 contractions per 30-minute session. The strength and frequency of the contractions engender tightening, firming and strengthening of the area being targeted. Thus the Tesla FMS chair, distributed by Radiant Healthcare, has been specifically designed for vaginal rejuvenation. Tesla FMS treatments are carried out with the patient fully clothed and can be done twice a week for a course of four treatments, depending on the severity of the condition being treated. Treatments are also painless and can be carried out with or without the help of a therapist. There are no consumables required.
Feminine awakening
fibres of the pelvic floor and lower back. An electrical field is created through induction, which depolarises the motor nerves
FemiLift from Alma Lasers is a versatile platform, enabling medical practitioners to treat various feminine indications quickly and effectively. Procedures are conducted in an outpatient setting and do not involve general anaesthesia or downtime. The FemiLift has a variety of hand pieces that get plugged onto Alma’s Pixel CO₂ device (option of a 30W or 70W device). Vaginal rejuvenation and laxity, vaginal dryness and labia tightening are just a few of the different indications that doctors will be
able to treat using the Femilift. Says Nicola Steenkamp of Femilift distributor, Best Lasers: “The device can be safely used on all skin types with little to no side effects. FemiLift harnesses the power, precision and versatility of CO₂ laser technology to offer four energy delivery modes and a wide array of dedicated applicators. It boasts a global presence of doctors and specialists who use this device. At Best Lasers we have been privileged enough to expand the Femilift footprint into South Africa, Zimbabwe and Sub-Saharan African countries. We include full training, delivery and online @ probeauty.co.za
Treatments
14 installation. You will receive your certification and site licence with the purchase of this device.”
Fractional procedure The Gynelase™ fractional CO2 laser vaginal rejuvenation procedure is a good alternative to surgery in less advanced pelvic floor dysfunction. This revolutionary platform combines the photothermal power of the CO2 laser with the delicacy needed in a so sensitive area as the inside of the vagina. A Gynelase™ procedure is easy to perform, painless, fast, subablative and minimally invasive. This bloodless treatment needs no hospitalisation, has no downtime, and requires no anaesthesia. Typically a patient will undergo two to three 15-minute treatments, six weeks apart to achieve the desired results. During the treatment, a sterilised applicator is moved along the vaginal wall in an outward motion. Laser energy
is delivered 360° onto the vagina walls and on its circumference through a quick and precise application, covering the entire area. The laser energy is deposited in an orderly and completely homogenous way. As the laser impacts are fractional (i.e. a random dot matrix method and
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not a stamped method), it allows for healthy tissue between laser impacts, and thus a rapid recovery of the mucosa. The treatment achieves vaginal tissue contraction and tightening through the controlled and highly precise photothermal effect of the interaction of laser light with the tissue. This thermal effect causes a denaturalisation of collagen and the body reacts by producing more collagen (neocollagenesis) and in a greater measure than there was before.
Dual technologies Introduced in 2012 to treat vulvovaginal conditions, MonaLisa Touch®, which runs on DEKA’s SmartXide Touch system, boasts a new bipolar RF Touch hand piece, making it possible to expand the treatable conditions. Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers explains that MonaLisa Touch® offers two technologies in one system, namely CO2 Laser and bipolar RF (radiofrequency). “The laser energy to the vaginal walls is provided in a fractional mode, meaning that only a small percentage of vaginal tissue is directly affected by the laser. “The exclusive Hi-Scan V2LR full-
angle applicator emits laser energy in a 360° manner, which ensures quick, perfect and even treatments that are easily duplicated over different sessions. With five different types of probes – including a 360° disposable probe – MonaLisa Touch can address the specific and/or anatomic needs of individual patients.” A single use hand piece, the RF Touch adds a complementary tightening treatment to the CO2 laser; a deeper stimulation of the connective vaginal mucosa, improving all the problems related to non-atrophic flabby tissues such as SUI and Vulvo-Vaginal laxity. MonaLisa Touch® is the only laser therapy fully recognised by International Scientific Community and supported by more than 50 international scientific publications.
A 360-degrees approach The Ultra Femme 360™ is described by manufacturer, BTL, as a great option for women who desire non-surgical improvement of their intimate health. Says Branislav Sucansky of BTL South Africa: “The Ultra Femme 360™ provides a safe and effective treatment that can work wonders comfortably, with no downtime. It uses radiofrequency and ultrasound energy to gently heat the vaginal tissues, which increases blood flow, stimulates collagen and elastin production and causes the tissues to tighten. “This non-surgical treatment can be used to treat both the interior and exterior vaginal tissues for a complete rejuvenation of the vaginal area. The Intravaginal treatment takes eight minutes, while the external treatment is based on your specific needs, and usually takes less than 12 minutes.” He notes that the recommended number of treatment sessions is three, scheduled once a week. This treatment tightens and tones the vaginal tissues for an improvement in sexual pleasure and function, mild urinary incontinence, vaginal dryness and laxity, and cosmetic appearance.
A HEALTHY GLOW
with Sun Protection Business Trends
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IRON OXIDE PROTECTS AGAINST VISIBLE LIGHT (Tinted Sunscreen)
Full Spectrum Protection (UVA, UVB, HEV, IR-A) Anti-pollution shield A wide range of products for all needs All skin types for Body & Face No burning eyes
WWW.SUNSKIN.CO.ZA online @ probeauty.co.za hanlie@sunskin.co.za
Lauren Gibson takes a close look at three trends referenced in the GWS Global Wellness Trends Report 2021 and how they can influence innovation in your salon or spa Today is different from yesterday – that is a given. We have learnt skills such as agility and flexibility and how to adapt to change quickly. But does that allow space for innovation and the creativity to think of game changers for your business? Following trends in the industry (and this can expand to overall wellness) is a great place to start, as it allows a fresh new perspective on what is predicted to impact our industry and how we can adapt or introduce elements into our business to align with these consumer and wellness trends. The Global Wellness Trends Report 2021 has just been released by the Global Wellness Summit (GWS) and some of these trends show an interesting approach to innovation that we may not have considered.
Trend 1: Big media Have you noticed the sudden increase in wellness and health documentaries and series on TV apps such as Netflix and Amazon Prime? It’s Interesting that these platforms realised this was the route most consumers were going and that this is how they could
educate the masses on a healthier lifestyle linked to more alternative therapies. Apart from TV, apps in general that encourage calmness, meditation or sleep have seen a massive rise, as well as music apps that now ‘serve’ clients content or music that speaks to their wellness needs and requirements. This highlights the power of sound, which is something we can easily implement into our salons. Or, even better, what if your client could start the treatment with a meditation or sleep guide of their choice? Adapt your treatment to be relevant.
Trend 2: Immune health Immunity doesn’t just speak to cold and flu boosting, it speaks to everything in your body, as everything is connected to your immune system. This involves healthy eating for your body and your metabolic rate, understanding your skin microbiome and how to keep it balanced, medical based personal nutrition and genetic testing to really understand your body and what you need. Boosting sleep is one is the simplest yet most powerful things we can do to balance immunity in our bodies. And we can offer
this in a salon environment. Hot and cold therapies, forest bathing and enhanced touch therapies will be incredibly beneficial to both physical and mental health. Again, all these are elements you can bring into your salon and spa space with your own unique twist.
Trend 3: Spiritual and soulful architecture There are studies to prove that design is powerful and can impact mood and behaviours – therefore how we place and design our space will become very powerful in the wellness world. The spaces we live and work in can impact our health and mental wellbeing and, by making small tweaks or changes either in a revamp or makeover, can do the world of good for your home or salon. Sometimes the innovation is so simple we miss it….but the impact that small change can make to your client’s experience is mindblowing.
Lauren Gibson has over 15 years in the health and beauty industry with qualifications in yoga, mindfulness, content marketing and management practice. laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com
Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay
Image by Sharon Ang from Pixabay
Innovate, innovate, innovate
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IT’S A WHOLE NEW TREATMENT EXPERIENCE
Short focused session Superior level of comfort Clinically tested results Scientifically proven technology • No costly consumables
• No needles or anesthesia required • Little risk of side effects • Painless and affordable treatment • No downtime • No costly consumables
• • • •
FAT REMOVAL
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SKIN TIGHTENING
After 4 treatments Before
After 4 treatments
FACIAL REJUVENATION
Before
BTL Medical SA 393 Emus Erasmus Ave, Erasmusrand, 0165 Pretoria, South Africa +27 76 232 80 58 btl-sa@btlnet.com | www.exilis.com www.facebook.com/pages/BTL-SA-Aesthetics
After 2 treatments
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Clubhouse – what is it and should you be on it? If you aren’t yet familiar with Clubhouse, you’re not alone. Dr Steven Land and Ness Griffiths discuss the social media/podcast hybrid everyone’s talking about
If you aren’t yet familiar with Clubhouse, you’re not alone. While you may have heard whisperings, many have not yet had an opportunity to use this fast-growing new social network, either because they don’t have an Apple device – though Android support is coming soon – or because they haven’t yet received a coveted invite. Clubhouse’s tactic of cutting out around 65% of the world’s mobile phone users allows it to throttle its own growth and add to the exclusivity of the invite system. Clubhouse’s key attribute is what sets it apart from the established social media behemoths – it’s audio only. Combining the structure of oldschool chat rooms with the best parts of talk-radio and podcasts,
Clubhouse brings peer-to-peer, authentic conversations to life with the immediacy and emotion of the human voice. Whereas current social media streams require “content” which can be altered, adjusted and perfected before it is released, Clubhouse taps into the creativity, intimacy and authenticity that can only come with live conversations. It has arrived at a perfect time; while other platforms are being scrutinised for their lack of transparency, Clubhouse has no place to hide behind filters or sponsored posts.
HOW DOES IT WORK? Think of it as a live, interactive podcast where you and your friends or colleagues can
share your thoughts, ideas and expertise and the audience can interact, ask questions and even join you on “stage”. Anyone can start their own room at the click of a button from the main screen – they can be public or private and can cover any subject. Once you have scored yourself an invite and registered, the app is sparse and simple to navigate; enter your details and tell the app what topics and conversations you might be interested in and you’re set. Opening the app (“entering the Clubhouse”) puts you in the “hallway”. From here you can see a number of “rooms” that are currently in progress, with the titles displayed to pique your interest. Scroll down to find one that sounds interesting and tap
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on it to enter. If there’s nothing you want to participate in at that time, tap on the calendar at the top to see what talks are upcoming around the topics you have picked. Once you are in a room you can sit quietly in the audience and listen, raise your hand to ask a question, or join the conversation. If the people running the room want to hear your question or input, they’ll bring you up onto the stage and you can unmute your microphone and dive in. Click on participants’ photos to see their bio and to follow them on Instagram and Twitter and see what “Clubs” they are in (collectives around themes you can follow to see all the rooms the club runs). Once the room closes the conversation stops and nothing is left behind, so if you miss it, you miss out.
WHAT’S THE APPEAL? Exclusivity and some high-profile early adopters have helped generate a buzz about the app, but it wouldn’t be thriving if it
were without substance. The “rooms” can be interviews or panel events covering any and every topic you can think of; and the message is very much “if you can’t find it, start it”. The current user base of around two million is a diverse mix of entrepreneurs including Elon Musk and Dan Priestly, investors, entertainers such as Oprah Winfrey and Drake, actors like Ashton Kutcher and Kevin Hart, and doctors, nurses, marketeers and more. The intimacy and authenticity of live conversations is almost addictive. You can hear people’s tone of voice, their emotion and personality in a way that other media doesn’t allow. Jokes, sarcasm and passion are all more apparent, as is the participants’ level of knowledge, so “fakers” are more easily weeded out. The serendipity of this app is talked about in every article you’ll read about it; you can wander the hallway dropping in on conversations about everything from health tech to high art, or an investor or
entrepreneur may drop into your conversation, someone with exactly the right spark to take your idea to the next level. Audio content such as podcasts and audiobooks allow us to carry on with other activities while soaking up knowledge, opinions and expertise. In this way, Clubhouse is a perfect background social network. Finally, it is a true “social” network; you can invite your colleagues up onto the stage, make everyone a speaker and get true social interaction. It’s like being in the bar after a conference but you can chat to anyone in there, one person at a time – modern day networking for the Covid era.
WHY SHOULD I GET INVOLVED? You can listen in on real-time conversations between people who inspire you and discuss ideas and concepts that fire your imagination. You can hear from people directly, allowing for more empathy and understanding to help you grow on both personal
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and business-owner levels. At any given moment there are many like-minded individuals to be found on the platform, allowing for networking, sharing of expertise and knowledge, bouncing around of ideas, and much more. You may discover a misfire from someone else that is exactly the spark your next idea requires. Additionally, the opportunity to hear from experts on subjects that are new to you – be it marketing, accounting or skincare – allows you to improve your knowledge moving forward. Right now, Clubhouse is still growing and represents the opportunity of a virtual land grab; establishing yourself early on as an expert is easier when there is less background noise. Societally we’re craving unity, human contact, honesty and privacy. Clubhouse provides a way to connect with like-minded individuals with expertise across a wide range of subjects, enabling a plurality of human voices to interact and connect. The live, audio-only format begets honesty and transparency while allowing us to maintain our privacy if required.
WHERE IS IT HEADED? Whether we’ll still be talking about Clubhouse this time next year remains to be seen, but
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with a user base that has grown from 100,000 late last year to two million by March 2021 and a current valuation of around USD$1 billion, the future looks bright. At the moment, Clubhouse is very much a business-tobusiness, expert-to- expert medium, but as it expands the opportunity to interact with customers live, with immediate questions and feedback will grow, allowing you to showcase your knowledge and become the go-to expert in your field. Plus, the ability to record rooms for future learning is coming soon. The honesty, authenticity and democratising nature of this audio only platform has entranced me. It is the users who create the environment and thus far it is one of collaboration
over competition, advice over adversity. By starting small – with the correct mix of people – and building slowly, the inclusive culture that developed at the start has permeated throughout Clubhouse, resulting in a nurturing environment. At Novellus Aesthetics we were so interested in the app that we now host an open forum every Thursday evening on Clubhouse called Aesthetics: Under the Skin, which also now has its own club. If you ask nicely, we may have a spare invite. Humans have always felt the need to interact socially and audio has been our chosen medium for the majority of that time. Clubhouse may just represent the newest version of a digital campfire.
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Every sustainability action
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counts!
CHARNE LE ROUX from GreenSpa.Africa provides top tips on how to bring sustainability within easy reach in your spa or salon Consumers around the world, and in particular those who enjoy the health and beauty benefits offered by spas and salons, are increasingly asking important questions about the products and practices that apply to their favourite wellness partners. • Are their products continuously re-usable, or biodegradable so that, eventually, they replenish the earth? • Are there any social or community benefits in the production of their products? • Are their products really good for us as consumers and the environment? • Do their businesses consume resources in a sustainable way? As wellness generators, spas and salons promote the health and wellbeing of their guests. A logical extension of this activity is to also promote the health and wellness of the planet and the community in which our businesses operate. This is, in fact, what more and more spas and salons in South Africa are aiming to achieve and here are a few practices that can bring GREEN within reach of us all. • Use less energy for heating and cooling by insulating geysers, water pipes, ceilings and floors. • Cover pools and install insulating blinds when you refurbish. Also, opt
for quick drying eco linen made from sustainably sourced fabrics. • Use less water by recycling grey water from basins and showers directly to your WC cisterns or gardens. Harvest rainwater from your roof. • Connect with, build and enhance your local communities. • Arrange wisdom days to celebrate our elders and share skills with fellow community members or tenants – from how to do facials, where to find beneficial plants and how to bake your own delicious bread. • Participate in a circular economy and source products that are durable, have replaceable components and can be recycled. • Go truly paperless! QR codes and mobile/contact free payment systems are a mere tap away. • Serve food and beverages from your spa or salon café that are nourishing (seasonal) and tasty, and are produced sustainably. • Reflect ‘local’ in your spa – from products, to therapies, to art. • Choose treatment products that feed the skin, are free from harmful chemicals and which are manufactured ethically. With the strain that the COVID pandemic has placed on our operational and environmental resources, the following tips are
particularly relevant. • Select re-usable PPE. It’s just as safe as disposables if proper sanitising practices are followed. • Purchase eco-friendly sanitisers free of micro-plastics. (These tiny plastic particles are often found in sanitation products and are what give these products their gel-like texture. Plastic has been found everywhere on earth – in the deepest parts of oceans, in the tissues of small organisms that form the basis of our food supply chain and now with micro-plastics, even in the air that we breathe.) • Use refillable and bio-degradable containers for hand sanitisers, cleaning chemicals and guest amenities. • Buy sanitising and cleaning chemicals in bulk and in returnable containers. And then, don’t forget to share your sustainability successes with guests and use their support to build a lasting GREEN culture. Charne le Roux is a leading sustainability expert in the wellness industry and the founder of GreenSpa.Africa. She was a senior partner in the law firm Adams & Adams. Le Roux developed the first dedicated organic spa in South Africa, is the author of the Green Spa Guide, and developed a sustainability audit tool for spas and salons, the Green Spa Calculator. Email charne@greenspa.africa
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24
Rejuvenation in Reverse
A new trend in the aesthetics sector is seeing millennials actively seek antiageing skin treatments as a preventative measure, writes Karen Ellithorne appear before acting on their skincare treatments, they prefer to be proactive. They are already starting to incorporate prerejuvenation treatments and skincare products from their early 20s and 30s to assist with maintaining their youthful appearance for longer. The benefit of this philosophy is that it is much easier to slow down the signs of ageing then to
T
aking care of your skin from a young age can assist with your youthful appearance for many years to come. We have all heard the term ‘skin rejuvenation’ and this simply defines any treatment or product that makes the skin look and feel better. This term can cover a plethora of skincare treatment modalities in aesthetic centres, like anti-ageing injectables (toxins and dermal fillers), lasers, chemical peels or using cosmeceuticals at home. However, Generation Z has created its own approach to antiageing that is becoming a new trend in aesthetic clinics around the world. Millennials are starting
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Millennials’ approach to skincare is that instead of waiting for fine lines and wrinkles to appear before acting on their skincare treatments, they prefer to be proactive. to use rejuvenating treatments as a more active approach to antiageing instead of a reactive one. This approach is referred to as pre-rejuvenation.
Increasing demand The recent annual member survey of the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS) found that 72% of facial plastic surgeons had seen an increase in demand for cosmetic procedures in patients under the age of 30. This is a significant increase from 2017, when the members started to note the influx of younger patients. Millennials’ approach to skincare is that instead of waiting for fine lines and wrinkles to
try and correct the skin once the collagen and elastin has been lost. Early action will also prevent the formation of sun damage, uneven complexion and pigmentation. Thus the main aim with prerejuvenation is the prevention of the possibility of having to experience more aggressive treatments at a later stage in life in order to get rid of damaged skin.
Youthful mesh This aim is achieved by keeping the collagen and elastin, which are like a mesh that keeps the skin firm and youthful, healthy. Collagen breakdown is responsible for the vertical lines that form on an aged skin.
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Traetment
26 Maintaining elastin in the epidermis will prevent more of the horizontal line or wrinkle formation. It is said that elastin in the skin can start breaking down from your 20s already, especially if a person is leading an unhealthy lifestyle.
Hyaluronic acid Then of course there is the natural occurring hyaluronic acid that is found in the epidermis and body joints that gives the skin a plump youthful appearance. This substance is directly linked to the health and quality of the dermis, where the collagen and elastin are found. It is said that the natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin will completely decline by the time a woman reaches menopause, if there has been no intervention in the ageing process. This is normally the time when the older generations start to seek intervention.
Pre-rejuvenation treatments Here are the types of treatments that are currently popular in the pre-rejuvenation sector. Botulinum toxin and dermal fillers: by beginning these types of injectables at a younger age, one can reduce muscle movement in
A common treatment in pre-rejuvenation is when an aesthetic doctor combines a bit of botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid filler to preform micro injections in certain areas of the face. areas that are more prone to static lines before they begin to develop into deep lines or furrows. It has become common for millennials to use fillers to enhance the lip area; this is done with the
objective of improving self-esteem rather than for an actual antiageing effect. Another common treatment in pre-rejuvenation is when an aesthetic doctor combines a bit of botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid filler to preform micro injections in certain areas of the face. This treatment provides the combined benefits of wrinkle smoothing and volumising, resulting in an overall more refreshed look that is completely subtle and natural. Chemical peels: there is a wide variety of chemical peels on the market that will assist to achieve better skin tone. Peels vary and can be superficial or deeper and are made up of a wide variety of ingredients from Alpha and Beta hydroxy acids, resorcinol and TCA (Trichloracetic Acid) to mention just a few. Due to the fact that the pre-rejuvenation age group has no major skin issues regarding ageing, regular superficial peels are very popular. However, if they are suffering with scarring and damaged skin caused by acne, they may consider something deeper to improve their appearance. Radiofrequency (RF): skin tightening technology using RF energy that is effective down to the dermis to tighten and firm skin is very popular. As mentioned earlier, many of the effects of ageing are due to the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermis. The above types of treatment modalities work by stimulating collagen growth and improving the tensile strength of the existing
collagen. This would form part of a millennial’s regular skincare regime just to maintain skin health.
Cosmeceutical skincare Just as we need water to stay healthy, so does the skin need nutrients to glow. Introducing medical grade skincare into your client’s skincare routine in their 20s and 30s will assist and support the client’s natural elasticity and increase the skin’s
Photo by Meritt Thomas on Unsplash.
cell turnover to prevent the early development of signs of ageing. In addition, the daily use of UV protection is taken very seriously by this generation as a preventative measure. In closing, we are all aware of the saying that prevention is better than cure and this is particularly true when it comes to the skin ageing process.
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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27 Treatments
Fat grafting in the aesthetic industry Fat transfer, also known as fat grafting or fat injection, is becoming an immensely popular procedure due to the natural and aesthetically pleasing result that is produced. It is a safe, long-lasting and well-tolerated procedure. How it works is that fat is harvested from one part of your body, washed and purified, and then carefully reinjected with specially designed needles into the areas that need augmentation, or where there is a lack of volume. It may be necessary to repeat the fat grafting procedure several times to achieve the desired result. Fat grafting can be explained as a three-stage process: (1) harvesting (2) purification and transfer and (3) placement. The patient and doctor will select a site for fat removal and the doctor will inject it with a local anaesthetic. A small incision will be created in the area for fat removal and, using a sterile technique, a cannula connected to a syringe will be inserted to carefully extract fat. This suction technique that removes adipose tissue from specific areas of the body (such as the abdomen, hips, thighs, buttocks, arms, or neck) is known as liposuction, which also has a contouring effect on treated areas. In terms of purification and transfer, once enough fat is obtained from the donor area, the doctor will process it to prepare the fat cells for transfer to small syringes that will be used for fat injection. Purification may online @ probeauty.co.za
require the use of a centrifuge to spin the fat or a filtration process to remove impurities. The area designated to receive the graft will then be prepared and the doctor will insert a needle or cannula into the incision point of the site being augmented. Typically, the injection needle is passed in and out of the areas to be augmented multiple times. Each time the needle or cannula is withdrawn, a line of fatty tissue parcels is carefully deposited in natural tissue planes. This process is repeated until the desired correction has been achieved, creating a grid of grafted fat. This procedure is also used in breast surgery. Fat grafting can be done during breast augmentation and breast reconstruction. If a patient is interested in increasing their breast size, they will be a good candite for fat grafting. If breast defects are seen following a lumpectomy for breast cancer, fat grafting is also an effective way to fill the defects.
Advantages Besides fat grafting being safe and giving you a natural looking result, there are many other advantages
to this procedure – such as improvement of the overlay skin texture, skin quality, and removing unwanted fat. Generally speaking, only a few days of recovery are required. It may take several weeks or months to see final visible results from fat grafting, as in most cases it takes a while for newly transferred fat cells to establish a blood supply and take permanent hold in their new location. Although it is common after a surgical fat transfer to experience some bruising and swelling, as well as some temporary numbness in the area, this will subside in 14 days. At my practice, our staff is hands on with all our patients after having surgeries done. Our teams do regular follow ups to assure that patients receive the best experience and post op care.
Image from Pixabay
Dr Kamlen Pillay, leading plastic surgeon and head of The Specialist Laser and Cosmetic Institute (SCIN), provides the lowdown on fat grafting, a facial rejuvenation treatment that offers an alternative to dermal fillers and botulinum toxins
Business Trends
The role that data plays in your business
Photo by Carlos Muza on Unsplash
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Today most clinics are run using software, but are business owners making the most of what can only be described as the goldmine of information at their fingertips, namely data? Knowing your data is critical – it is not just a luxury for big corporations, it is essential for any business to run successfully, no matter the size. So says Shani Leon of booking app, My Appointment. She continues: “I once asked a prospective client how she measures how well her salon is doing, and her response was: ‘I check if there is money in the bank account at the end of the month’. While this answer was humorous, it was also very honest and true for many business owners. And yes, having money in your bank account at the end of the month is definitely a clear indication of how the month went – so it is a logical thing to check. However, this is a completely re-active approach. What it won’t do is help you make decisions and move the business
in a pro-active way. It will also not offer you any insights into why there is (or isn’t) money in the account at the end of the month.” Leon points out that there are so many variables that can influence the revenue of a salon business, such as seasonality, staff complement and staff performance. “When comparing data, it is important to take all of these factors into account so that we compare like with like.”
Tracking trends Gary Halberstadt of Spa Guru notes that while most salons and spas utilise a software solution to help them manage their day-today operations, it’s essential to be able to access all this electronic information in a way that allows managers and staff to track trends and act on this data.
“From a revenue perspective it’s important to keep track of what services and products are the most popular in order to help focus your marketing, and also to ensure that you are keeping up with changing client needs. “Particularly during this global pandemic, utilising data from your system to see what services are still in demand and which are seeing a drop in utilisation is essential. This can ensure you focus on what’s profitable and what clients are still comfortable coming in for, whilst reducing costs on services that are currently seeing low demand,” explains Halberstadt.
‘Living information’ As Chris Parker of ESP Online points out, the term business
intelligence means gathering data, converting it into meaningful information, interpreting this information and taking positive action in response to the interpretation. “Using business intelligence to support your decision making process stands opposed to making decisions based on gut feeling. Rather you give up what you think you know about your business and take a neutral standpoint in order to let the facts speak for themselves. Business intelligence gives an objective point of view rather than a subjective point of view. “The difference between business intelligence and management reporting is that business intelligence is meant
There are so many variables that can influence the revenue of a salon business, such as seasonality, staff complement and staff performance. to be ‘living information’ that should really be referred to on a daily basis and action should be taken almost daily to correct performance that is not in line with the target requirements. “Business intelligence, therefore, needs to be a working tool that not only gives you information about your business, but also assists you in doing staff appraisals on a regular basis so that they are part of the overall objectives for your spa, so that staff can benchmark themselves against the performance of the spa on the whole, as well as other therapists if necessary. Therapists need to feel empowered by the feedback that is given to them through the business intelligence cycle so that they not only get a reflection of their performance, but also the kind of input they
need in order to grow their performance.” Parker believes that starting with a top down view is critical and suggests that owners begin with a very simple entry point such as whether turnover is up or down compared to a comparable previous period. “This then begs the next question of why your turnover is up or down compared to a previous comparable period. The ability to answer this question will depend on your ability to make sense of the sales information that you generate on a daily basis. Every question that you are able to answer will usually lead to another question. The more questions you answer, the better. “Your aim is not only to increase turnover but ultimately to improve your profitability. Therefore, you need to be working towards not only operating at full capacity, but also to be maximising returns once you have reached capacity. For example, if all your therapists are fully booked all of the time, you may decide that your only choice is to expand by either opening another branch, or extending the size of your spa. However, by using data to pinpoint your situation, you realise that you need to be get a higher return per client visit, which should yield greater returns without the capital outlay (and imminent overheads) of expansion,” concludes Parker.
Key metrics Leon points out that the My Appointment booking app can help salon owners by identifying key metrics, which can be used to make business decisions. She continues: “You will easily be able to identify which service types sell the most, which product houses sell the most, and most importantly, which are the most profitable. This type of information can help you to push the right type of sales and maximise profits. “One of the key aspects of My Appointment is that it is a completely cloud based point of
Particularly during this global pandemic, utilising data from your system to see what services are still in demand and which are seeing a drop in utilisation is essential. sale. This means that not only do you have access to the necessary analytical data, but you will always have the most up to date information at any time and from anywhere. This will give you the agility to make business decisions quickly in response to what the data is telling you.”
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