Jan/Feb 2016
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Point of contact
Front desk staff
Tantalising
teaser
Professional Beauty Cape Town Preview
Future watch
Spa & MA trends 2016
Skills set State of training
Black is the new black african skin treatments
cape town
16
46 48
In this issue... Regulars
Spa Focus
Features
5 Industry news
24 Top 10 trends for 2016
33 Rosacea reality
Local and international news
55 Hair news
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
60 Product news
28 Glenburn Spa turns 10, changes name
All the latest launches
64 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP
15 Insider
Tracking the industry with stats
16 Ask the experts
Muldersdrift spa undergoes metamorphosis
Nails 52 The perfect nail recruit
Business
What this year holds for the spa industry
Sourcing nail salon staff
Medical Aesthetics 57 Medical aesthetics trends for 2016
Treating a ‘rosy’ skin disorder
34 The return of the ‘apothecary’
Dr Gobac opens first skin clinic
36 Dark and really, really lovely
African skin treatments
42 Curtain-raiser for Cape Town
Professional Beauty Cape Town Show Preview
46 Pure and simple
Natural and organic products
48 A solid grounding
Are our graduates good enough?
Experts give their predictions
All your questions answered
19 The customisation of treatments
Services that ‘speak’ to the client
20 On the frontline
Building a strong front desk staff
23 An ideal blend
The perfect mix of online and offline platforms
36 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Welcome
I
t’s time to take out the crystal ball and see what this year may hold for the industry. In terms of the spa sector, owners and managers must ensure, first and foremost, to keep the client’s spend budget in line with value for money services. Another trend identified in our article on spa trends 2016, is the need for spas to tap into the Generation Z market, previously not considered an appropriate age group for spas. On the medical aesthetics front, non-surgical anti-ageing treatments such as toxins, dermal fillers and threads, are likely to grow in popularity during this year. In terms of peels, the ‘less is more’ approach is proving a trend, where milder peels that are performed frequently are preferred to very strong peels. This edition of Professional Beauty puts the focus on an important issue that is threatening the industry – that of the move by the AHPCSA (Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa) to take over ‘nontherapeutic massage, reflexology and aromatherapy’. Should this go through no therapist will be able to perform these services unless registered with the AHPCSA and could only perform the services within a registered practice. Think of the dire consequences such a ruling would have on spas – where massage is far and away the most popular treatment – and on graduates wanting to work on cruise liners. The industry needs to stand together to fend off this threat. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
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5
News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.
Harnn opens in SA
Paul Harnn
Luxury Thai lifestyle brand Harnn has opened its first retail concept store in South Africa, making this the 14th country in which the brand is distributed.
L
ocated in the retail precinct of Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, the Harnn stores offers skin and body care products, home spa products, lifestyle fragrances, interior sprays, diffusers, candles and herbal tea infusions. In an exclusive interview with Professional Beauty, the brand’s founder, Paul Harnn, said: “We are confident that Harnn will do well in South Africa. It is unique as it is 10% natural and contemporary, as well as being Asian-inspired. “In addition, Thailand is a popular tourist destination for South Africans and many will already be familiar with our brand and products.” Harnn reveals that he had to submit
a comprehensive business plan to Thailand, which included detailed market research, before he was given the exclusive rights for distribution in South Africa. “We aim to expand into the African Market over the next two years,” says Harnn. The Harnn team researched many different locations for their first South Africa store before deciding on Melrose Arch. “It is a good fit for us as the entire Melrose Arch precinct caters for the more seasoned/well-travelled shopper and offers many high end luxury brands. We will also be opening a Harnn Spa in the not too distant future,” comments Harnn.
Hitech takes on INTERmedic The Hitech Group has announced that Medilase is now the sole distributor in Southern Africa for systems from Barcelona-based company, INTERmedic, a prestigious manufacturer of medical light-based systems. During a recent visit to Barcelona, Hitech MD Wicus Olivier (left) was introduced to some INTERmedic systems by the company’s Ricard Serra (middle) and Francisco Javier Arcusa.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Expanding on the brand’s Asian holistic approach, Harnn noted that he believes in establishing the natural balance between body, mind and environment. “We use natural active ingredients to help restore that healthy balance through the five-sense experience of sight, sound, taste, touch and scent,” he explained. Originally an architect, Harnn finds designing for the brand much more exciting than being an architect. “I spend most of my time on the creative side of the business, designing packaging, retail shops, blending essential oils, testing formulations and creating the menu for our tearoom.”
News in pictures
Customer service was the focus of a lively and interactive panel discussion at a Professional Beauty Network Breakfast event held at 54 on Bath in Johannesburg in November. Speakers were Deena Govender (BMW South Africa (Pty) Ltd.), Francisco Garcia (Amani Spas), Wesley Grobler (The Saxon), Jade Kirkel (Sorbet), and Diana van Sittert (Dermalogica).
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
industry news
6
New MD for Environ Distribution SA Wayne La Grange has been announced as MD of Environ Distribution South Africa (EDSA). La Grange was formerly EDSA general manager, having joined the company in 2014.
I
n his new position La Grange will direct and control the distribution company’s operations, and give strategic guidance and direction to the board to ensure that the company achieves its mission and objectives. “I stand firmly behind the conviction that brands don’t make companies great. Great people make brands that lead companies to greatness,” says La Grange.
He is passionate about what Environ stands for, stating that it is not a cosmetic company but a company that markets a product created by one of the world’s leading aesthetic surgeons – Dr Des Fernandes – who cares about the health of people’s skin.
Medical aesthetics clinic turns 10 Face & Body Synergy, a medical aesthetics clinic based in White River, celebrates its 10th anniversary on 1 April. Run by Dr Hendrik Toerien and wife Marinda, Synergy had humble beginnings, with only a single therapist and a hairdresser. Synergy now offers medical aesthetics treatments using devices such as the Palomar laser, an IPL skin rejuvenation and hair removal system, as well as a Cooltech Fat Freeze machine. “Our passion is weight loss and being able to assist people to feel and look good, as well as building
their self-esteem,” says Marinda Toerien. She notes that Dr Toerien has won the Slender Wonder Doctor of the Country four times in a row.
My Skin Centre Relaunches
News in brief ■ Black Pearl launches in Florence: Michelle Roberts of Black Pearl SA and brand ambassador Candice Lavoie visited the Four Seasons Firenze in Florence late last year to introduce the market to the Black Pearl experience.
■ First Soprano Ice for Mauritius: Best Lasers has sold the firstever Soprano Ice in Mauritius, to Geraldine Chasteau Fayd’herbe of Samaya Beauty Lab. ■ 3D-Beauty lashes at Fairway Spa: The Fairway Spa at the Fairway Hotel and Golf Resort now offers 3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions. These FDA-approved lashes are developed in the US. ■ Brow Bar takes on LoLa: The Brow Bar has added LoLa Brows to its treatment offering. This salon treatment uses semipermanent colour to achieve three-dimensional brows, which can last up to three weeks. ■ ESSE honoured for community support: Trevor Steyn, founder and CEO of Esse Organic Skincare, has received a Bioprospecting Award for supporting local communities through profitsharing, where indigenous biological resources are utilised in the brand’s products.
After months of renovations, My Skin Centre has relaunched at the Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort. The aesthetic centre has doctors and skincare professionals on call to offer anti-ageing treatments.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015
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industry news
8
Twincare lauds top achievers On 27 October, Twincare International acknowledged its top achievers at the inaugural Twincare Gala awards ceremony held at Cantare, Montecasino, in Johannesburg.
“T
he purpose of this glamorous event is to inspire spa and salon owners to continue elevating standards of excellence, which raises the bar for the industry and clients alike,” said Twincare CEO Stav Dimitriadis. Natural Expressions won Twincare’s Salon of the Year Award, with the Loyalty Award going to Face Value. Winners in the Guinot categories were: Salon of the Year JHB – Natural Expressions; Salon of the Year KZN – Brookdale Health Hydro; Salon of the Year CT – Yemaya Spa & Hair; Salon of the Year PE – Purebliss; Top Retailer – Wendy’s House of Beauty; Business Excellence JHB
Loyalty Award
Salon of the Year
– Renaissance Day Spa; Business Excellence KZN – Briget Filmer Spa and Skin; and Up & Coming – Crystal Clear.
News in pictures
RégimA won two awards at the prestigious Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Awards held in October – for Best Product Range 2015 in South Africa and Best New Product across five categories (Innovation; Formulation; Packaging; Marketing; and Regulations). Pictured at the awards ceremony is RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt (centre).
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Matis category winners were: Salon of the Year JHB – Matis Institute Rosebank; Salon of the Year KZN – Pravina’s Hair and Beauty Centre; Salon of the Year CT – House of Freya; Salon of the Year East London – The Beauty Clinic; Top Retailer – Matis Institute Fourways; Business Excellence – The Beauty Clinic; and Up & Coming – Beauty by Chantelle.
Bezuidenhout joins Radiant Bianca Bezuidenhout has joined Radiant Healthcare as sales representative. On completion of her Somatology degree at Camelot International Houghton in Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt Johannesburg in 2012, Bezuidenhout worked for Steiner as an aesthetician on the Carnival Valor. She subsequently fell in love with medical aesthetics and result-driven treatments at Sprout Medical Aesthetics. “I’m excited to join Radiant Healthcare and am up for the challenge of selling amazing devices to the medical aesthetics industry,” says Bezuidenhout.
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industry news
10
GLO opens its doors Andy Best and Claudio Caldeira have opened the GLO Laser and Beauty salon at the Parkview Shopping Centre in Pretoria.
S
ays Best: “Being in the industry, I could see how well our Alma Laser devices were doing in the market, particularly the laser hair removal system. Before we opened GLO in October, we travelled to London with the aim of opening a salon there. But we decided to get the first one up and running in South Africa and then to offer
it as a franchise model. Our second salon will open in a few months.” Best and Caldeira were at pains to bring ‘a European feel and vibe’ to GLO. “Most salons have very subtle music whereas we have upbeat music and very happy, bubbly staff,” continues Best. “Clients have commented to
New salon concept launched
us about how they really do love the different vibe in our salon.” For laser hair removal, GLO uses Alma Lasers Soprano Ice and for body contouring, Alma Beauty Reform. The salon also offers beauty treatments such as facials, massages and waxing. In-house products include Lilian Terry and Lamelle.
BTL latest
Zama Chiliza
Beauty salon chain Amazi, which only employs women from previously disadvantaged communities, opened its first-ever salon in Cape Town’s Maynard Mall in December. Spearheaded by businesswoman Divya Vasant, Amazi was conceived with a strong social purpose and overarching attitude of empowerment. The brand found a natural synergy with the SEW (Sorbet Empowering Women) Foundation. Says Vasant: “Sorbet founder Ian Fuhr has always wanted to build a brand that would gave back in a real
and tangible way. Ian met with Tracey Chambers, the CEO of The Clothing Bank (TCB) and, using the experience of TCB, we came up with the idea of home-grown, micro-beauty businesses that provide women with the skills and tools to offer beauty services to their communities. Amazi is to be franchised.”
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Sylvia Drake
BTL won two awards at the recent My Face My Body UK Awards, namely the Best Body Reshaping Procedure for BTL Exilis Elite and the Most Innovative Aesthetic Treatment for BTL Intima. Exilis Elite also received a Highly Commended in the Best Skin Tightening Treatment category. In addition, BTL made the Elle Beauty Treat List 2015. Meanwhile, BTL Aesthetics South Africa has introduced two country managers to its growing team: Sylvia Drake and Zama Chiliza. Drake owned and managed a laser and skincare clinic for seven years, while Chiliza is a qualified somatologist who has completed a New Managers Programme for Wits Business School.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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industry news
12
Beauty industry faces up to AHPCSA threat On 9 December, Professional Beauty convened an industry gathering in Johannesburg to discuss the ramifications of the AHPCSA’s (Allied Health Professions Council of South Africa’s) aim to open a subregister for ‘non-therapeutic massage, reflexology and aromatherapy’.
O
ver 30 beauty industry stakeholders attended the meeting, held at the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel in Sandton. Sandy Fuhr and Menna Kleine, both board members of SAAHSP (South African Association of Health & Skincare Professionals), explained how, should the AHPCSA succeed in opening a sub-register for ‘nontherapeutic massage, reflexology and aromatherapy’, then all beauty therapists, skincare therapists and somatologists who perform these skills would have to register with the AHPCSA. They would only be allowed to perform such services in registered practices, and not salons or spas. Said Fuhr: “Since 1972, the beauty industry has been more or less regulated by SAAHSP – we are
Menna Kleine, Phil Woods and Sandy Fuhr
SAQA-appointed, but we are not a statutory body. Today we accept nails and medical aesthetics as part of our industry. We believe that the AHPCSA wants to usurp our business. “The AHPCSA Act was originally introduced for homeopathy. Anyone who registers with AHPCSA is assigned a practice number and your client becomes a ‘patient’. You may not retail any products from your practice and you may not advertise or use the word ‘clinic’ in your practice name. Furthermore, you cannot hand out gift vouchers and you can only work with people who are registered. “If this AHPCSA ruling goes through, day spas and destination spas will not be allowed to offer massage treatments and beauty school graduates won’t be able to
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
work on cruise liners.” Broadcaster and former Services Seta CEO, Ivor Blumenthal, suggested the industry form a confederation representing all the professional designations. “You need to sell these designations to your clients. Your message to the public as a confederation should be – don’t do business with someone who isn’t designated. If you want to fight the AHPCSA – don’t bother sending letters to ministers – get your customers behind you, take the matter to the courts and get everyone to register with your confederation. You need to speak to government in a unified voice.” Professional Beauty’s Phil Woods, who moderated the meeting, stressed that the underlying idea was for the beauty industry to regulate itself, rather than to be subject to the AHPCSA. “We need a mechanism for broader engagement with industry, the public and government,” said Woods, “a confederation that says – we are the industry voice.” Professional Beauty held a follow-up meeting at its offices in Ferndale on 15 January, where it was agreed that Fuhr, Woods and Mariska du Plessis would meet with AHPCSA chairperson Dr Craig Wright before the end of January.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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business trends
15
Insider
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban, Cape Town, East London and Port Elizabeth to track business in December 2015.
The month in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2014?
75 % BETTER 12
% SAME
13
Insider Spa
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
83% Insider Salon
We asked you how treatment business was in December 2015 and 75% of you said it was up; many attributed this to the festive season as it seems people had more time and money to spend. Thirteen-percent of you reported that business was down. Another 12% said that it was much the same as the year before. Regarding retail business, 63% of salons said sales were up – many attributed this to new products being introduced, as well as increased marketing and advertising. Thirty-seven percent of you reported that retail business was the same as the year before. The average treatment room occupancy for the month of December was 83%. HOW DID RETAIL We asked how you fill BUSINESS IN in appointments when DECEMBER 2015 business is slow, 62% COMPARE WITH of you offer specials. DECEMBER 2014? Of this percentage, one salon SMS-es clients with specials % BETTER and does mail drops in the area. Another salon offers value added % SAME treatments. We asked if you offer skin peels in your % WORSE salon, 63% said yes and 37%, no. % WORSE
63 37 0
online at www.probeauty.co.za
An overwhelming majority of spas reported an increase in treatment business over December, as compared to the same time last year. One destination spa experienced a large influx of guests due to its hotel introducing self-catering units. Another spa almost doubled its revenue because of extended operating hours and therapists successfully upgrading most of their treatments. One spa reported a 25% increase in treatment business but had raised its prices by between 10 and 20%, while another spa offered guests complimentary hydro facilities for treatments valued at R800+. Half of spas polled experienced a decrease in retail business. One spa noted that clients buy their retail products before the holiday season commences. Conversely, another spa had a number of foreign visitors, who proved easy to retail to. There was quite a variance in treatment room occupancy, with some spas reporting 90% and others as low as 39%. Only a small percentage (28%) of spas offer peels as stand-alone treatments but some offer rejuvenations facials that include an AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) peel. All of you actively fill empty slots in your appointment schedules, by calling up clients and working off cancellation AVERAGE TREATMENT lists, and offering specials during ROOM quiet periods. One spa has OCCUPANCY therapists handing out promotional pamphlets, while another has a marketing team that focuses on midweek groups.
68%
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2014?
87 % BETTER 0
% SAME
13
37
% WORSE
% BETTER
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN DECEMBER 2015 COMPARE WITH DECEMBER 2014?
13
% SAME
50
% WORSE
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
ask the experts
16
Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
What exactly does probiotic mean and why are probiotic ingredients beneficial for the skin?
T
he discoveries made by the Human Microbiome Project have remodelled our approach to skin care and offer us new techniques to slow the effects of ageing on skin. It is now clear that skin is an ecology, with more than 10 microbes for every human cell. These microbes are essential to the optimal functioning of skin and current skincare regimes ignore this basic fact. Probiotics are microbes that are good for you and a prebiotic is a 'food' that favours the growth of these microbes. Probiotics can shift the skin’s ecology to favour a diverse and harmonious ecosystem that is healthy enough to resist attacks from pathogens and to reduce the impacts of ageing on the skin. Incorporating live probiotics into conventional skincare products is not generally feasible. Most products contain water and preservatives are required to prevent spoilage. These preservatives, by definition, kill microbes – so the probiotic cfu per ml would be zero.
probiotic microbes are filtered off. The ‘broth’ is the remaining solution (which has the byproducts of the microbes in it – not the microbes themselves). This is used as an ingredient in a final cosmetic product. Good skincare results can sometimes be obtained using this technique, but as a probiotic ingredient, this is a bit of a grey claim.
Claims in cosmetics are justified in four different levels:
Level 2 – In this technique, the microbes are kept whole but they are killed with heat. This process is called tyndallisation and here the culture of probiotics is heated to 60°C and cooled again over three days. These probiotics can still dock onto skin cells but obviously can’t grow and divide to significantly alter the skin’s microbiome.
Level 4 – These products use the ‘broth’ from a microbial soup. Microbes are grown on a substrate (think of this as a watery solution of microbial nutrients) and then the
These three levels of probiotic supplementation are the easiest to incorporate into cosmetic preparations. The ingredient is simply added to the formulation with no real
Level 3 – These probiotic extracts are called lysates because the probiotic cells are ruptured – obviously killing them in the process. In this technique, the probiotics are again cultured in a nutrient-rich substrate but instead of filtering them off, the cells are broken so that their cell contents leak out before the mixture is filtered. This method results in an ‘extract’ that contains the cytoplasm (cell contents) of probiotic microbes. Using this as a probiotic claim is more acceptable.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
change necessary in the preservative system or in the rest of the product. These three levels of probiotics cater for the majority of claims in skincare. Level 1 – This is the incorporation of live probiotic microbes in the final product. There are a number of difficulties in this process. Firstly, the use of a preservative system would kill the microbes, so the product needs to be preservative free. Secondly, it is exceedingly difficult to ensure that the probiotics are not killed during the production process. Thirdly, there are storage considerations for the final product – if the temperature drops too low, then the water in the probiotic cells will freeze and the cell membrane of these cells will break and most of the cells will die. If the temperature rises above 40 °C, the enzymes in the live cells will start to denature and, again, most of the probiotics will die. To date only one company has made claims that include the use of live probiotics in a skincare preparation. Esse Organic Skincare has overcome these challenges in its Esse Plus Probiotic Serum and Esse Sensitive Serum – both contain one billion live probiotics per millilitre.
Trevor Steyn is an organic chemist and the founder of Esse Organic Skincare.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
ask the experts
17
I recently entered the permanent make-up industry and would like to know how I can ensure that the device I am using is hygienic.
I’ve heard about oxygen (O2) infusion therapy – what exactly is it and what are the benefits for the skin?
permanent make-up device should be designed in such a way that there is no transmission of possible blood-borne pathogens from one client to the other. In the old days, machine parts were metal and not disposable, and had to be sterilised by the technician. Today there are cartridge systems available for cosmetic tattooing that are for once-off use and disposable. The most important factor is that every surface area inside the machine that came into contact with a client’s blood and the pigment should be disposable. This means the outside casing, the outside needle cap, the needle itself, the needle shaft and the bit behind the needle should all be disposable and sealed off from the motor of the machine. The best option is using a device that provides an integrated cartridge system where everything is built-in and sealed-off. Furthermore, the outside of the device should be covered with barrier film and replaced between clients. Needles MUST be disposed of in a responsible manner by using a sharps container and having a medical waste removal company dispose of it.
very cell of the body is living and breathing and needs oxygen to survive. Inevitably the oxygen levels within our skin cells fall as we age, which can lead to loss of elasticity and bounce, and the formation of lines and wrinkles. O2 infusion therapy uses powerful bursts of compressed air to infuse the skin with oxygen to help visibly plump out fine lines and increase skin firmness. Whilst helping restore elasticity, O2 infusion can also stimulate tissue repair, as well as heal and rebalance the skin. When combined with highpotency actives, the oxygen infusion facilitates an increase in the depth of product penetration and therefore the effectiveness of the active ingredients is far greater. Nutrients, peptides, antioxidants and essential oils are able to reach deeper into the skin, providing intense nourishment and allowing it to repair itself from the inside out.
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Nikki van Gend of Image Division is a qualified somatologist and permanent make-up artist and trainer (Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional). Van Gend is a board member of PCASA (Permanent Cosmetics Association of South Africa) and is the authorised distributor for LiPigments in South Africa.
E
Noella Gabriel is MD and co-founder of premium British skincare brand Elemis, which celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2015.
DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
business tips
19
The customisation of treatments Debbie Merdjan reflects on her recent experiences of Hong Kong’s luxury spa circuit.
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Pic source: http://press.fourseasons.com/hongkong/
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’ve just returned from a whirlwind trip to Hong Kong where I attended Cosmoprof Asia, a leading trade fair for the beauty and wellness industry. I love Hong Kong – the efficiency, pace, energy and excitement of the city. The first few days were spent traipsing the aisles and stands of the show where I met fabulous people and learned new things, but also landed up with a bad back and a very tired body. Anyone who does this show will know what I mean! Luckily, part of my job is to check out what’s new in the spa world and to compare our South African services to international services. I was therefore forced (and not reluctantly I might add) to do the spa circuit of leading hotels. I started at The Four Seasons Spa, checking in online, a seamless process. I’d booked a deep tissue massage and was amazed at how my therapist immediately zoned in on my body’s needs. She customised my treatment according to my aches and pains. That was also my experience at the Mandarin Oriental and all the luxury spas I visited. Customised treatments are the new thing. Not a cheap thing (R2,500 for an hour treatment in a top Hong Kong spa), but a good thing! People are looking for a treatment that ‘speaks to them’; something personal. They want an authentic experience, but much more than the décor or the ambiance of the spa, they want a high standard and personal treatment.
Personal touch Three key words describe the experiences I had everywhere: • Quality • Personal • Customised Truthfully, any treatment should be a little customised at the very least. No-one wants a treatment where it feels like the therapist is just going through the motions. So whatever the treatment is, the therapist should always make it feel customised for that particular client. Be personal. Be aware. Pick up on the client’s needs.
of the body needs more work than others. Another option is blocking out a set time, talking to the client and customising accordingly. We have to continue to evolve and offer our clients what they want to buy, rather than expecting people to buy what we want to offer. And while we do this, we need to maintain standards and be practical. I learned so much during my trip to Hong Kong. It was exciting, stimulating and informative and I cannot wait to put some of these new ideas into practice. Watch this space! PB
Consistency But remember that consistency is really important too. If you are one of a chain, you cannot suddenly be offering anything and everything. This doesn’t mean you cannot be clever. An option is to offer a standard treatment but to allow the client to choose their oils and perhaps choose which part
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
business tips
20
On the frontline
Simply put, your front desk can make or break you. The customer’s first real and last encounter with your brand is through your front desk. Ayesha Rajah reveals how to make your front desk excel and boost business.
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t is not only the receptionist’s behaviour and customer service that is summed up as soon as a client walks in, but the surrounds, ambience and appeal of your spa or salon weigh in as well. Building a strong front desk does go back to hiring. We often transfer one of our therapists to front desk, simply because it’s a natural progression to a managerial position, or perhaps the therapist’s treatments are curtailed due to carpal tunnel syndrome. But have you ever stopped to ask yourself whether this is the right reason for this specific position? Front desk staff require a very distinct set of abilities; yes it’s a bonus if they have a beauty therapy background, but it is not the most
essential quality. Emphasis should be placed on the following skills: strength in both verbal and written communication; good interpersonal, organisational and people skills; attention to detail; multitasker; can work under pressure; able to deal with customer complaints; tech-savvy; and the ability to solve problems. Look out for the following personality strengths in front desk staff – energetic person, approachable, friendly disposition, flexible and a team player.
Accuracy Correct data capturing and mining can broaden insight to various factors affecting business, revenues, operations and customer relationships.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Emphasise accuracy to front desk staff when capturing data, as this will assist in targeting specific demographics and personalising promotions. You can take it one step further and have front desk staff ascertain drink, snack, music and room temperature preference, making the client’s experience more special. Implement a client record card and follow-up system. A great way to measure client satisfaction is to make a follow-up call and ask very specific questions related to service, ambience and overall customer experience.
Training Yes, product training would be an asset to have in the front desk position but don’t stop there. Customer service,
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business tips
21 It’s all in the little details and relationship-building starts as soon as the client walks in. Have your front desk staff prep every morning re clients’ preferences (e.g. what drink to offer when they arrive) and to enquire and engage in conversation around their wellbeing.
Boosting sales
Front desk staff essentials Emphasis should be placed on the following skills: • Strength in both verbal and written communication • Good interpersonal, organisational and people skills • Attention to detail • Multitasker • Can work under pressure telephone etiquette and general organisational skills are essential, so send the person for the appropriate training. Write out SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) for the front desk position to outline the standards that should be maintained. This will also streamline orientation for future staff.
Front desk etiquette We live in a time-starved era of instant gratification, so your clients expect you to be available 24/7. The reality is that your response time needs to meet those expectations or clients will go elsewhere. Here are some tips on client expectations and response time: answer the telephone within three rings; e-mail within the same day (24 hours maximum); Facebook in the course of three or four hours maximum (the usual expectation is an immediate response).
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• Able to deal with customer complaints • Tech-savvy • The ability to solve problems. Today clients receive SMS birthday wishes from just about every company with which they deal, like insurance companies and large retail stores. So, be memorable – instead of sending just another cookie cutter text message, rather have your front desk make a personal call wishing the client a great day, or send out a personalised e-card. The grooming and appearance of your front line staff says a lot about your brand, so insist that uniform, hair, nails and make-up adhere to the SOPs. Clients want to feel validated, so put a strong emphasis on acknowledgment for every client that steps through the door, by giving them a smile or a simple head nod of acknowledgement if you are on the telephone.
If your front desk staff has never experienced a treatment, they have no insight on the treatment procedure. Similarly, if they have never felt the textures of the product, how are they expected to upsell specialised treatments or recommend correctly? Give front desk staff talking points to assist in retailing, like having their nails painted in the latest colours, lighting a massage candle, displaying a tester of a newly launched product and having your monthly promotions visible in reception. Front desk staff must be able to handle customer complaints in a prompt and efficient manner. With the reach of social media, one customer complaint can reach thousands of potential clients and have a negative effect on your brand. Let’s face it; front desk staff are always in the firing line, so enable them with the tools to handle difficult situations. Always acknowledge that the client has a problem and escort them away to a more private space; listen to them and don’t interrupt, repeat key phrases back to the client to get to the root of the complaint, call in a manager to resolve the problem, or compensate by offering another treatment. Incentivising front desk staff keeps up morale and they will work harder to ensure business growth. They also need to eat, live and breathe your brand identity, not only to be the face of your business, but for the rest of the team to follow. PB
Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
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business tips
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An ideal blend The perfect mix between online and offline platforms is required to speak effectively to the new age consumer, writes Lauren Gibson.
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s human beings we like to embrace all our senses when investing in a purchase. We like to smell subtle scents, feel textures, taste or sample (if possible), look at the object and make a purchasing decision based on the questions we subconsciously start asking ourselves while deciding on a purchase. However, life has become busier. Shopping, browsing and wandering through malls is often seen as a luxury due to the demands of work and life in general. Today’s consumers live multidimensional, multi-platform lives, where the online and offline worlds are complex and dynamic. Although the online and offline worlds are merging, business owners need to remember that the two worlds (online and offline) can support each other and should be offered as a dual service to your consumers. This should be an ‘AND’ in your business and not an ‘OR’. Consumers enjoy both the brick and mortar instore experience and the online experience, depending on the item they are looking to purchase and how their buying habits are influenced at the time. Having both platforms of the retail experience offers the most desirable options to your customers, and attracts more footfall to both your store and your online platform.
What they want But how do we know what our customers want and how to balance the online and offline mix for our store? You need to understand your customers so as to offer the right
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mix of online and offline and hence the best service on both platforms. Due to the convenience of online shopping, you need to ensure your in-store experience is one of the best in the business. Employees must elevate the customer Shopping, brow sing and wand ering through malls is often se experience and treat each en as a luxury consumer as an individual with their own needs, buying patterns and preferences. This tailored service will make you the ‘go to’ person in your field of expertise. Online consumers have erratic shopping habits and this could be due to lack of brand loyalty. Consumers frequently switch brands due to any online promo or offer that they may come across. A major focus is needed for creating consumer loyalty online.
Increasing popularity According to Forbes Magazine, online shopping is predicted to increase by 62% in 2016, due to consumers feeling more confident with online sales. As a business offering online sales, you need to ensure your website has a simple, easy to use design and call to action buttons to entice the consumer. Alternatively, if you don’t feel comfortable with this new online world you can also rely on an expert or specialist in the field who can coach and guide you in the right direction. If you don’t have the ultimate mix of online and offline, you may be left behind as our industry and the consumer evolves. PB
Lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She recently joined the Cape Town team as the regional manager.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
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Top 10 trends for It’s that time of year when we look to the future with ideas that can make a difference and grow the spa industry over the next 12 months, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
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ccording to over 300 industry professionals, ranging from spa and salon managers and beauty therapists to The Spa Consultants team, the following spa trends have been identified for 2016. As a spa-owner and/or manager, you should look at any way in which your business can take advantage of these trends and find a way to capitalise on the trend in order to build loyalty for the future.
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Fit for life
Fitness, exercise, movement and blood flow are all current buzz words and are causing consumers to become more aware of the time they spend on their physical fitness. More than ever before fitness and a healthy lifestyle are becoming integrated into how people live their lives. Find ways to merge beauty and wellness into fitness and vitality, as they are all connected and work together. As the spaowner you need to make this happen, as it won’t just land in your lap.
Value for money
This is the number one trend and must be taken very seriously this year if you want sustainability in your business. In 2016 wellness will be more of a spoil and a luxury, so ensure that you keep the client’s spend budget in line with value for money. Make sure that you marry the value the guest is receiving with the money they are spending. Check that clients are able to get measureable results from their treatments so that they return month after month and that these spa visits remain in their budget.
3
Gen Z, yes please!
In the past the under-16 age group was not really spa-appropriate. This is no longer the case. Find ways to include the tech-savvy Generation Z into your spa business. They are the future and they are going to set trends in our industry. Sit with a Gen Z and find ways to include them into the health and wellness movement. Remember that the Gen Z mother is your current biggest spender, so look for ways to keep mommy and kid happy while in your space.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
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2016 4
Find your cause and drive it
Consumers are loyal to a cause so, instead of spending a huge amount of money building your brand, rather spend it supporting a cause that will attract the attention of the target market. Be sure to support and drive events around causes that are part of our industry. For example, reduce your carbon footprint and include customers in the drive, and give rewards to those who support the cause with you. Breast cancer and world health days are important causes to support and drive, as is ‘Say Yes to Wellness Day’.
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It’s all about the feeling
A good facial, a brilliant wax, a fabulous pedicure are all at our fingertips today, but the feeling of being genuinely appreciated, loved and wanted is what the consumer is looking for. This feeling goes far beyond any perfect service or awesome massage. Of prime importance is how the customer feels in your business, whether the feeling is one of belonging or a sense of family, want and need; this is followed by how good the service was.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
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6
Workplace efficiency
This is all about how ‘well’ your team is. If your team is well in terms of stress management and healthy lifestyle, together with fitness, vitality and wellness solutions, the staff absenteeism rate will drop and the efficiency rate will increase. Total body and mind wellness goes a long way to delivering an efficient and productive team.
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Over-promise, under-deliver
If you have a treatment that is revolutionary in terms of skin solutions, such as pigmentation or fine lines and wrinkles, make sure you underpromise and over-deliver. There is nothing worse than a consumer who expects a specific result because it is promised and receives something totally different. To have a happy and loyal customer, make sure their expectations are fully met and overexceeded with your services. Create needs and deliver the solutions.
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As a spa-owner and/or manager, you should look at any way in which your business can take advantage of these trends and find a way to capitalise on the trend in order to build loyalty for the future.
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Look out for non-surgical anti-ageing treatments and carefully research them. Take care not to get sucked into the latest trends that are not real solutions. Find the solutions that your clients are looking for. Measure and track them and then be sure that they tell the rest of the market place. Consumers are looking for quicker results and less downtime. There is a lot out there, so research, ask and try out all the treatments before you decide on selecting any of them for your spa.
ROI
Return on investment (ROI) is of utmost importance to both consumer and spa owner. Both parties want to see the best possible outcome for their investment. From a small and quick service, such as a pedicure, to a more specific service, like facial peeling, ensure return on investment is positive. Again, only research and trials can guide you in the right direction. Don’t get misled by false advertising.
Non-surgical solutions to stay younger longer
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Building community
Find ways to build community with wellness. The trend of keeping communities closer together is gaining momentum. Communities that include wellness and spa will feature this coming year and grow stronger and stronger going forward.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
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Other trends The aforementioned are the strongest 10 trends for the South African market for 2016, but I want to touch on a few trends that started last year and are gaining momentum and should not be ignored this year. The menu-with-an-add-on culture is huge in any industry. Starting with a basic service and adding on smaller and more focused services to improve the impact is really important. I would suggest a really simple service menu with only a few services and then a range of add-ons for the guest to choose from. These add-on services need to be promoted by the therapist and the staff member taking bookings. This premise works a bit like a basic cheese and tomato pizza before all the toppings get added. The toppings are the additional or add-on services. Lastly, I want to touch on the massage service at spas. Massage is by far the most popular service in the industry, yet many consumers complain about the quality of the massage received at many spas. This year I would focus on improving the delivery of the massage treatment and ensuring that the guest is blown away by the quality of the service, as well as the smaller elements added to the massage to make it more impactful. Take time with your team to review the massage service and work together to make it amazing. For example, make the customer stretch before and after the massage, or play specific music to start the treatment, etc. Your business will do as well as you want it to this year, so get focused, get passionate and get planning for the best year yet. PB
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
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Glenburn Spa turns 10, changes name
In addition to celebrating its 10th birthday on 20 October last year and changing its name to Chicama Spa, the Glenburn Spa in Muldersdrift has opened its own conference venue, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
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ituated in the heart of the Cradle of Humankind within Glenburn Lodge, Glenburn Spa opened a decade ago and was independently managed by Claudia de Kock. Christa Badenhorst, Group Marketing & PR – Guvon Hotels & Spas, continues the story: “Glenburn Lodge provided the venue, décor, marketing and hotel infrastructure to back up the spa, while Claudia took care of the daily running of the spa with great success. “Four years ago, Guvon Hotels bought the remaining share of the spa and it became fully owned by Glenburn Lodge. With Glenburn’s 25th anniversary and the spa’s 10th
birthday, it was only natural to take the next step and merge the two identities. The Glenburn Spa name will be phased out over an extended period to ensure that we don’t alienate our loyal customers. Management, spa facilities and treatments, as well as quality of service, all remain exactly the same. Thus far there has only been a logo update.” She notes that the spa has been fortunate enough to have built up long and lasting relationships with its suppliers. “Most of them have become friends over the years. The Matsimela Home Spa and TheraVine brands have been with us since day one.” A ‘soft refurbishment’ of the spa was undertaken to coincide with its 10th birthday. As to changes over
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Leon Bosch (operations director, Guvon Hotels); Nigel Peel, (GM Glenburn Lodge); Kosie Pansegrouw (MD Guvon Hotels) and Geraldine Veldman (spa manager)
the past decade, the spa’s booking systems have been updated and operational processes streamlined. In addition, the gym, which was part of the spa, fell away as it was not utilised often enough.
‘The Grapevine’ Badenhorst reports that Guvon Hotels MD Kosie Pansegrouw came up with the name of ‘The Grapevine’ for the spa’s conference venue. “In keeping with the vineyard theme
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of the spa, the conference venue has beautiful vineyard wallpaper, transporting conference delegates to their own conference winelands during their meeting,” she explains. “We introduced ‘The Grapevine’ to target conference groups who want to include wellness in their business meetings. ‘The Grapevine’ has its own private entrance at the side of the spa.” Spa at a glance Guests can book a halfOwner: Guvon Hotels day ‘serious’ conference Size: 345 square metres and then move over to the spa for treatments, or Hydro facilities: Jacuzzi, the other way around. two hydrobaths, indoor pool, steam room/rasul “The fun option is to chamber make a day out of it – to have breakfast in the Number of treatment rooms: 8 spa, go for a treatment, then keep your robes Number of full-time on to move to ‘The therapists: 3 Grapevine’ for your first Brands: Matsimela Home strategy session,” states Spa, TheraVine, Morgan Badenhorst. Taylor, Spa Indulgence
Hydro richness Glenburn Spa has several hydro facilities for guests to choose from, namely a jacuzzi, two hydrobaths, an indoor pool and a steam room/rasul chamber. “Glenburn Spa is very popular with couples and the steam room, jacuzzi and hydrobaths particularly lend themselves to quality together time. Our ‘Togetherness Delight’ package, which includes the rasul chamber and jacuzzi, is particularly popular,” comments Badenhorst. The spa’s signature treatment is the Red Wine Sachet Massage & Merlot Hydrotherapy Spa Bath. A warm infusion of herbs, minerals and red wine is used to create cell renewal through the guest’s skin. Every sachet contains polyphenols, which slow the damaging cell oxidation process. After the massage, guests enjoy a Merlot hydrotherapy spa bath to complete their antiaging treatment. Spa manager Geraldine Veldman reports that she has between 25 and 30 regular local clients going back as far as five to 10 years. “The Aromavine Anti-wrinkle Facial is very popular amongst the locals, who tend to make use of the Tuesday promotion, where a 30% discount is offered for treatments over R500,” says Veldman.PB
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
RESURFACING BALM RESURFACING BALM
INTENSIVE SCAR REPAIR
INTENSIVE SCAR REPAIR
Care for Compromised Skin
2016 The International Spa Convention is Africa’s leading information exchange opportunity for all those working in the spa and salon industry. Don’t miss out, the future of your business could depend on it! Who should attend:
Delegates will be able to:
• Spa owners and directors
• Take home practical ideas to immediately improve their spa operation
• Spa managers, senior therapists and other key staff, eg. operations and accounts • Health and fitness operators • Hoteliers and resort planners • Investors • Architects and consultants • Local and national government agencies
Let’s talk about it...
• Work towards a shared vision benefiting the industry and its clients • Network with leading spa and hotel professionals • Shape ideas and innovations that will enable the industry and your business to prosper
• Customer serviCe: From first contact to feedback: Learning what your spa clients really want.
Speakers will present their views on those issues which go to the heart of the spa industry and address live issues facing spa business development.
• revenue manaGement:
• Great staff: Advice on how to put together and retain a terrific team.
Operational and strategic principles for financial success
• marketinG maGiC: sales traininG Workshop: Ensuring real results
Learn about the essentials of an effective advert, the power of copywriting, and the impact of social media and mobile marketing.
• eCo-sustainability: Ethical, sustainable and eco-friendly practices for your spa
BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASS Check the website for online bookings and benefits: www.professionalbeauty.co.za
Let’s talk about it
2016 staff | marketing | eco sustainability | sales customer service | revenue management
on: 30 & 31 August at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand more info: www.probeauty.co.za
With DMK Skin Revision for stretch marks.
To achieve a fantastic result at the skin surface you must first regenerate the cellular structure of the skin.
Before and after images demonstrate the effects of DMK stretch mark treatments. BEFORE
AFTER
Stretch marks most commonly appear after weight loss/ gain or pregnancy, due to the skin being stretched beyond its capacity. This causes the skin to tear and form a scar.
of the skin. DMK uses a Transdermal delivery system that penetrates through the surface of the skin, allowing vital nutrients to reach new skin cells.
DMK professional treatments effectively assist in remodelling the scarred tissue with a specialised formula that dissolves and softens the damaged tissue topically. DMK then rebuilds the skin with its signature enzyme therapy to restore the skin’s tissue back to a healthy state.
The DMK concept is based on science and the natural processes of the skin. By understanding how a condition is caused, DMK can then provide a remedial program that effectively works to revise this unwanted condition.
The DMK difference is in the way the treatments and formulations are delivered, rather than working on the surface
Similar to a personal trainer for your body, a DMK technician will take you through all the steps involved and most importantly how you can achieve a life long solution.
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rosacea
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Rosacea reality Rosacea has probably been one of the most misdiagnosed and misunderstood skin disorders in the history of the human race, writes Danné Montague-King.
Theories Several researchers have theorised that rosacea is brought on by a species of mite, the Demodex Follicuorum, (a microscopic mite) or Helicobacter Pylori (a type of bacteria). Other skin experts claim facial erythema is due to oedema, while others say rosacea is pharmalogic (such as in response to topical steroid use). There is evidence that harsh wind, sun exposure and dietary factors exacerbate rosacea. The therapist must be aware that certain prescription drugs for problems not related to rosacea may cause flushing and redness. Vasodilator drugs to watch out for can include Griseofulvin, Chlorpropamide and Antabuse.
Couperose skin The correct medical term for couperose is Telangiectasia and therapists have for many years used diathermy, schlerotherapy and other methods to treat it. Now, there is a nicotinic acid crème that will flush
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Basic symptoms of rosacea Flushing (treatable by therapists); Erythema (treatable by therapists); Papules (treatable by therapists); Pustules (treatable by therapists); Oedema (treatable by therapists
Before
unless chronic);
Rhinophyma (medical treatment only); B/Conjunctivitis (medical treatment only);
Kerstitis (treatable by therapists unless drug-related); Comedones (treatable by therapists); Scarring (treatable by therapists trained in scar revision techniques).
out capillaries in the skin that have become pinched or congested at their branch connections.
Cases not treatable by a beauty therapist There is one symptom called Rhinophyma that requires medical attention – the nose is grossly swollen, deep red and sometimes has actual fissures in the skin and swollen veins. Another symptom called B-conjunctivitis should be avoided as it deals with the eye tissue, thus making any topical beauty therapy treatment a risky option.
Can it be cured? Controlled remission of rosacea is a preferable term to ‘cure’. Using the ‘cure’ word to a client suggests that all problems will be sorted out forever, which is totally unrealistic. It’s vital to counsel a rosacea client about the many irregular factors that
After
Pic source: http://www.dmk-uk.com/treatments/rosacea/
T
he symptoms of rosacea are so variable that many people have been treated for it when they were in fact suffering from some other skin disorder. In fact, the term acne rosacea was a common medical diagnosis a few years ago and is no longer considered a valid disorder under that name. Most severe skin disorders instil fear into beauty therapists, who have been taught to refer the client to a dermatologist immediately. Rosacea does not fall into this category. There has been as much success in treating various symptoms of rosacea by advanced beauty therapists as there has been by physicians.
go into treatments that may determine the outcome, such as genetic, lifestyle, age and any mental attitudes about their condition. I believe that the root cause of rosacea is the Demodex mite, a tiny parasite living in the sebaceous glands. Chronic conditions either are viral or parasitic, not bacterial, bacteria being easy to eliminate. The fact that we can clear up rosacea with alkaline washes and aggressive (rather than calming) treatments has convinced me of this reality. PB
Danné Montague-King, founder of the DMK skincare empire, has won international recognition and endorsement by the medical profession for pioneering a skin rejuvenation system that recognises the importance of offering skin cells a chemistry they recognise.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
salon focus
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The return of the ‘apothecary’ Cosmeceutical brand Dr Gobac has launched its first-ever specialised treatment clinic, in Morningside, Johannesburg, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Apothecary on 1 August 2015 and our bookings have really escalated since then. Being situated within an office park (Summit Square on School Road in Morningside) has helped to build our client base, I believe. “In terms of the salon’s décor, we went for muted and unisex colours to create a very quiet, calming and exclusive atmosphere that appeals to both men and women. “The salon has a couple’s room and two other treatment rooms. Our reception area is devoted to nail treatments – manis & pedis, gel and tips. We use only Ice Box colors, the nail brand created by Dr Gobac,” says Nieuwenhuis.
T
he clinic’s name, Dr Gobac Skin Body Apothecary, relates to the dispensing service of the brand’s bespoke remedies, whereby products are mixed on-site according to the client’s specific requirements and concerns. So says the brand’s founder, Dr Robert Gobac, who adds that the word ‘apothecary’ alludes to a holistic range of treatments, as well as to what he believes is a completely new concept offered in a medi-salon environment. “We understand that each person is unique, and, as such, we have created an environment where all needs can be met,” explains Gobac. “All bespoke therapies and products are exclusive to our salon.” He notes that the company has identified a gap in the market for a more medically defined, yet non-aggressive beauty salon concept. “Opening our own clinic was always a part of the
Treatments brand strategy, but about three years ago we made a firm decision that this was what we wanted to do. Since then we have been working on expanding our professional and retail range of products and treatments.” Gobac plans to open more strategically positioned clinics and is already evaluating the next locations.
Unisex appeal Somatologist Elzanne Nieuwenhuis is the salon’s manager and previously worked with Dr Gobac products for many years at her own salon. “We opened Dr Gobac Skin Body
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Specialised facial treatments and body care treatments in the salon have been developed to address a number of skin concerns. “We specialise in anti-ageing treatments,” continues Gobac. “This was always an important focus of the brand. “Recently, we expanded our treatment services to include cellulite, stretch marks, slimming and detoxing treatments. Brand-new actives and superior technology are available to us and we strive to translate these resources in the most effective and accessible ways. It is very exciting to see the results that can be achieved after only a few sessions.” PB
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Dark and really, really lovely
With the continued rise of the black middle class in South Africa, black clientele of salons and spas is steadily on the increase, requiring therapists to have specialised knowledge of how to treat African skin, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
T
here are several differences between Caucasian and African skins that are important for the therapist to know in order to treat them successfully and to prescribe the correct home care regime. According to Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA, African skin is thicker than white skin due to the stratum corneum having more layers and a more compact dermis, with larger, more numerous fibroblasts, which can lead to abnormal scarring and keloid formation. Says Faucitt: “This must be a major consideration when choosing insalon treatments and recommending home care so that aggressive treatments are avoided. In addition, black skins contain less glutathione, which is known to inhibit epidermal melanogenesis and leads to darker skin. Melanocytes in black skin have 10 times more tyrosinase activity, producing 10 times more melanin with slower melanin degradation. “When assessing an African skin, if pigmentation occurs in the upper
superficial layers of skin, the patches are a darker shade of brown, but, if pigmentation is in the deeper layers, an ashy grey discoloration appears. “Prevention and treatment of pigmentation, scarring (including acne) and any inflammatory conditions are at the top of the list for African skins and most types of reaction inevitably and quickly result in darkened, scarred areas.”
‘Oily’ concerns Sonette Donker of the Skin iD Clinic in Sandton notes that most of her black patients suffer from very oily skin and are prone to breakouts and hyperpigmentation. “A dark skin scars very quickly, so extractions must be performed with exceptional care and no inflamed lesions must be extracted, only non-inflamed lesions. African skin is also prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so inflammation during the treatment must be controlled. It is vital not to overstimulate this type of skin,” she explains.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Donker’s first course of action is to balance out excess oil production with oil-absorbing clays like Bentonite, and to increase the hydration of the skin. “So often people with oilier skin types strip and dry out their skins, leading to the skin producing more oil,” she continues. “I prefer using hyaluronic acid and aloe vera to increase hydration in the skin. Balancing the skin’s oil production will automatically keep breakouts at bay. “A good pH-balanced cleanser is vital, as well as is sun protection for daily use. I like a cleanser that contains exfoliating ingredients, which offer the user cleansing and exfoliation in one easy step.” She advises her black clients to use a cleanser containing glycolic acid to remove the dead skin cells in a gentle manner. Such cleansers also help to keep the skin clear and maintain an even skin colour. “I would recommend using a clay mask containing glycolic acid at home not more than once a week, for two minutes at a time, as the mask acts like a mini-peel. This will remove
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dead skin cells, absorb excess oil and even out hyperpigmentation. A light moisturiser containing hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin without increasing the oil production is needed for the day. For night time I prescribe an active product that focuses on the client’s main concern,” says Donker.
Uneven skin tone Over the past 20 years Ayesha Rajah of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa in Johannesburg has worked on a wide range of African skins. “Some of the skin conditions I have come across include an uneven skin tone predominantly localised to the around the mouth and forehead area,” says Rajah. “I’ve noticed that dark skin blemishes very easily primarily due to post-inflammatory pigmentation, as the skin tends go very ashen or grey in appearance when the client is
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stressed, ill or on medication such as Roactutane. “Due to having more sebaceous glands, I’ve found that African clients put huge focus on drying out their skin, which results in the skin becoming severely dehydrated with a dull appearance. This constant overdrying also creates an environment for comedones and further skin complications.”
Vitamin A Environ Skin Care founder and pioneering Cape Town-based plastic surgeon Dr Des Fernandes is of the opinion that skincare professionals would do their clients a great disservice if they ignored the real differences between those clients with Fitzpatrick Type V or VI skin and treated them as though they have Type I, II or Type III skin.
“African skin is sensitive and needs to be treated as gently as possible as problems may leave permanent marks. It’s true that darker skins that seem dry are probably deficient in Vitamin A. Dry skin shows up as grey flakes on the skin and tends to be associated with Vitamin A deficiency. You can be sure that this is a deficiency of Vitamin A if you notice follicular hyperkeratosis on the arms or legs. These are dry plugs of keratin surrounding the hairs that look as though they could be easily removed – but aren’t.” He recommends treating such skin with mild doses of Vitamin A as in Environ’s Derma Lac Lotion, combined with Environ’s Vitamin A, C & E Body Oil. “Dark skin is more likely than light skin to make keloid scars, or to produce hypertrophic (proud) scars,” comments Fernandes. “The R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
african skin
38 hypertrophic scar may flatten in time but will be very noticeable. The use of Environ’s Intensive Colostrum Gel is recommended to promote healing. Intensive Colostrum Gel is a regenerative, skin energiser which supports the production of healthy collagen, elastin and growth factors. It contains bovine colostrum, which calms, soothes and boosts distressed, fragile skin.” Fernandes warns against harsh exfoliation, suggesting that African clients opt for micro exfoliation instead. Two Environ products act as ultra-fine exfoliants – the Original Balancing Masque as well as the B-Active Sebumasque. Both also improve hydration and remove excess oils from the surface of the skin. “We need to feed the skin with nutrients that thicken the skin, as thicker skin is healthier skin. Nothing approaches Vitamin A in its ability
“Due to having more sebaceous glands, I’ve found that African clients put huge focus on drying out their skin, which results in the skin becoming severely dehydrated.” Ayesha Rajah
to thicken skin – especially in the gentlest form of retinyl palmitate. Environ’s face serums such as the C-Quence serums from the Ionzyme range, the Retinol serum from the Intensive range, and Sebugel A from the B Active range, contain a tolerable yet effective, fat-soluble version of Vitamin A retinyl palmitate, in addition to highly effective forms of Vitamins C and E, peptides, antioxidants, and growth factors as a base,” he states.
Sun threat Fernandes points out that the African epidermis is very sensitive to solar damage. UVB rays in particular affect the epidermis in dark skins. “Environ RAD SPF 15 is a revolutionary sunscreen containing sun filters and sun reflectors that protect skin from both UVA and UVB irradiation. RAD also contains a free radical scavenging system consisting of antioxidant vitamins to combat the effects of the sun and pollution on the skin,” he says. Faucitt does not believe that black skins require higher sun protection factors than Caucasian skin. “Sometimes a high SPF on black skin blocks the pores and results in irritation with subsequent pigmentation. It is also important not to have too high an SPF, as black skins are usually deficient in Vitamin D3.” Interestingly, Rajah notes that her black clients are often apprehensive about using sunscreen, due to the greasiness and whitening finish many sunscreen products have.
Pigmentation RégimA’s Zone Pigment Perfector is a new anti-pigmentation treatment that draws on the individual strengths of multiple skin-lightening actives. Lumiskin and the latest in proprietary skin-lightening actives work in synergy, providing a cumulative effect with a visible and significant decrease in pigmentation. With Sophora Root extract, the enhanced lightening action of black tea extract, and the latest in stabilised Vitamin C technology, this product combines the most cuttingedge actives for unparalleled skin lightening power. Added to this, Kiwi Fruit Extract has been found to be particularly beneficial for under-eye dark circles.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
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A good offer deserves your attention… The Hitech Group offers you a portfolio of 18 aesthetic systems for safe, effective and non-invasive applications on ALL skin types
Diode Lasers for PAIN-FREE Hair Removal “Because African skins are more prone to keloid scarring it is important that a product provides anti-glycation to prevent hardening of elastin and collagen fibres. This is an added benefit of black tea extract,” explains Faucitt. She notes that hypertrophic and keloid scarring is much more prevalent in black and Asian females between the ages of 10 and 20 years old. Because of this it is extremely important to help prevent scarring where possible. Keloid scars rarely regress naturally and are difficult to treat. Scar Repair, also from RégimA, is a Super Strength Serum which would be recommended for prevention and treatment of keloid scarring, helping active acne and improving acne scarring. The product further acts on older hypertrophic and keloid scars (ugly, raised scars), promoting their maturation, helping flatten, reducing pain and improving function. Faucitt recommends combining Scar Repair Forté with the RégimA Zone Power Peel treatments.
‘Brighten’ up The experts at Thalgo point out that, in addition to sun exposure and sun damage, pigmentation can also be caused in darker skins by pregnancy, hormone treatments, certain medications and hypothyroidism. They recommend Thalgo’s Brightening Rejuvenating Range, which includes Exfoliating Lotion; Unizones Clearing Corrector (for localised lightening for stubborn pigmentation and evening out the complexion); Brightening Regulating Essence; Smoothing Brightening Fluid (lightens, stimulates collagen production and acts during and after melanogenesis); Melt-In Smoothing Brightening Cream (to add luminosity to the skin); and Age-Defence Sunscreen Cream. R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
LightSheer ®
DESIRE
™
Laser hair removal generates the most income for a practice. With Lumenis’ unique FAST technology large areas can be treated in less time and don’t require any gels or topical anaesthetics.
Multi-application Platforms Over 1,500 applications to offer in your practice! • IPL • Nd:YAG • Resurfacing • Tattoo Removal • Skin Tightening
M22
™
Diamond-peel Microdermabrasion Viora’s Pristine Diamond-peel Microdermabrasion is a safe, non-invasive skin resurfacing procedure that – with densely packed laser cut diamonds remove dead skin cells to promote the growth of healthy, new cells for a smoother, more radiant and flawless complexion.
Needle-free electro-mesotherapy Viora’s Infusion™ is a unique, painless, needle free aesthetic procedure by which specially formulated ionic solutions with essential vitamins, minerals and complex amino acids are delivered into the epidermis without damaging the skin.
Ask the Hitech Group about how you can Reinvent your Business Tel: +27 12 349 1250 | E-mail: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za | E-mail: medilase@mweb.co.za
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Hyperpigmentation Many darker Fitzpatrick skin types struggle with the problem of hyperpigmentation, especially postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, according to Ursula Hunt of DermaFix. “Products focused on skinbrightening, such as DermaFix MelanoDerm and MD Prescriptives SkinLite, greatly assist to lighten and brighten the overall appearance of the skin, while DermaFix Vitamin C Serum plays a supportive role in skin brightening as it works against the inflammatory triggers that stimulate post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation production. “Further inclusion of enzymes via DermaFix DermaPolish and DermaFix
DermaBright Mandelic Acid will assist to revive a dull, ashy-looking skin type by stimulating a cell renewal response. Sun Protection should always play a key role in any skincare routine as it assists to protect against further darkening of the skin. DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50 is SANS 1557:2013 approved for its ability to provide UVA/UVB high protection,” explains Hunt.
From the ‘vine’ According to Lisa Smit, creator and CEO of L.S. Enterprises, TheraVine produces innovative skincare products formulated to address skin concerns related to pigmentation, while promoting luminous, even skin tone and effectively controlling pigmentation caused by the natural ageing process, sun damage, excessive UV exposure and hormonal imbalances. Says Smit: “MelanoVine addresses pigmentation in a threestep approach by making use of two cutting- edge peptides, five active ingredients comprising advanced hydrating systems and anti-oxidant phyto-chemistry, as well as with the nano-encapsulation technology of a revolutionary bilayer liposome. This combination leaves the skin brighter, younger and clearer. “Extensive research has gone into mastering the formulation of the cutting-edge Chromabright (Dimethylmethoxy ChromanylPalmitate) peptide into the six products that make up
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
MelanoVine, which are specifically aimed at diminishing dark spots, lightening and brightening the complexion, protecting the skin against further damage and dark spots, while also minimising the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Vitamin C For African skin, DMK recommends Fibromax C, a micro-encapsulated 20% liquid to powder serum. Previously known as Fibreblast C, it contains ethyl ascorbic acid, the purest form of Vitamin C and the most bioavailable. A strong antioxidant and free radical scavenger, the product accelerates collagen production. Liquid droplets are encapsulated in silica particles to form a dry, free-flowing liquid powder, which remains stable under ordinary temperature or pressure. Silica Silylate is one of the most abundant elements in nature; it is present in almost all plants and in almost every organ of the body and is thus essential for healthy skin. It has excellent barrier properties and protects against denaturing by oxidation and UV attack.
Light-based treatments Comfort and safety are two of the most important principles with a lightbased skin treatment, in particular, in the treatment of darker skin types (Types IV to VI). Says Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers: “Fortunately, advances in the
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41 prone to hyperpigmentation, discoloration and scarring, light-based skin rejuvenation treatments on the coloured skin should be evaluated thoroughly. “One of the most exciting advances is the fractional radio frequency treatments offered on the multitechnology platform of the Viora V30.”
In ‘harmony’
past decade have given rise to a range of devices that can be safely used on ethnic skin. Longer wavelength lasers such as the 810 Diode and 1064nm Nd:YAG and fractional radiofrequency devices have all been used safely for hair removal, pigmentary abnormalities, resurfacing and skin tightening in ethnic skin, respectively. “Because skin of colour is more
Best Lasers recommends the Alma Lasers Harmony Lite/ XL/ XL Pro to treat pigmentation on darker skin types. “Thanks to Alma Lasers’ trademarked In-Motion technology, the operator can move the handpiece freely over the skin. By exposing a pigmented lesion to short pulses of visible light, the temperature in the highly concentrated melanin can be raised sharply, enough to shatter the cells containing the melanin. The body then replaces these cells with new cells generated by the surrounding untreated area,” says Andrew Best. PB
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Curtain-raiser for Cape Town
91%
of decision makers agree that trade shows provide the best purchasing info Source: www.marketingprofs.com
A brand-new year, a brand-new show – Professional Beauty Cape Town runs from 13 to 14 March at the CTICC and is set to showcase the latest products, devices and services from the exciting world of beauty, nails and medical aesthetics.
Acu-sol (Dermacare) will showcase a fantastic range of Italian waxes that are new to South Africa.
Visitors to the Acu-sol (Dermacare) stand will be introduced to a magnificent range of cold waxes and the one and only Elastique film wax.
Bio Sculpture Gel will launch the highly anticipated EVO Gel, which will be available at the show along with many other show specials.
Best Lasers helps its clients to take their businesses to the next level both financially and technologically Calgel invites visitors by adding Alma Lasers to to its stand to have Visitors can their practice. The company also discover more Calgel applied to doesn’t just sell laser one of their nails information about systems – it provides and to see the Calgel’s exciting extensive training to clients, brand’s live nail art half-price education as well as technical support demonstrations. with local and international programmes in backing. Best Lasers registers Cape Town. Creative Glamour the client with the Department will launch its first of Health & Safety and provides cream foundation range. essential information regarding all As a show special, visitors the necessary precautions operators must take when using a laser. Clients can be assured that all avenues are covered when buying a laser through Best Lasers.
can receive up to 30% discount on selected items. Bio-Oil from Evolabs is a specialist skincare oil that helps improve the appearance of scars, stretch marks and uneven skin tone. It is also effective for ageing and dehydrated skin. Bio‑Oil has won 224 skincare awards and has become the No.1 selling scar and stretch mark product in 18 countries since its global launch in 2002. Lipidol is a range of six new oils for daily skincare from the makers of Bio-Oil. The range includes two washoff products, a Cleansing Face Oil and Cleansing Body Oil, that remove dirt without stripping the skin’s natural oily layer, and four leaveon products, an After Shower Oil, Sunscreen Oil (SPF 20), Overnight Face Oil and After Shave Oil, that
BTL Industries designs and manufactures non-surgical machines for the aesthetic medicine sector that represent the best devices for fat-dissolving, skin-tightening, anticellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) treatments.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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supplement the skin’s oily layer to help it retain its moisture.
Generous gifts and exciting lucky draw prizes will be up for grabs at Healing Earth
Healing Earth – learn about the benefits of holistic skincare inspired by the abundance of Africa’s natural healing resources. Explore everything from Healing Earth’s new High Performance antiageing facial care range, to its ecofriendly and educational range of children’s personal care products. Generous gifts and exciting lucky draw prizes will be up for grabs.
Every year, 200m Himalaya products enter the homes of consumers around the world. With a range of over 300 healthcare and personal care products, including brands like Liv.52, Cystone, Bonnisan, and Neem, Himalaya touches the lives of millions of customers worldwide, giving them products that help them lead healthier, enriched lives through a unique combination of pharmaceutical expertise and personal care technology. Himalaya is a pioneer in the use of modern science to rediscover, validate and contemporise Ayurveda principles into an effective, value for money head-to-toe product range.
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Visit iKhokha to find out how you can get started and get R100 off.
iKhokha allows you to accept debit and credit cards securely through your smartphone, wherever you do business. Lilian Terry International – creator of homeopathic aromatherapy – invites visitors to Stand E6 to experience the brand’s massage oil complexes, gels and toners, wraps and LT FlexyCups, first hand. The latest massage cup – the ProCup for Body – will also be showcased. This is the perfect cellulite treatment tool. Live demonstrations will be done on the stand. Get high-quality, long-lasting nail designs and nail decorations from leading brand Moyou Nails. Beautiful and artistic designs can be created at home using Moyou’s easy to use nail kits and image plates.
Don’t lose clients due to unanswered calls. My Appointment’s software and marketing portal allows clients to book appointments online any time, and is linked to the company’s comprehensive salon management system. Nailsforu will offer an easy to remove LED / UV cured Gel Top Coat applied over your favourite brand of basecoat and polish. It promotes a smooth gellike effect and improves performance and longevity. In addition it provides a protective, hard-wearing, durable polish overlay. Providing a high-gloss surface shine, the product is free of toluene, formaldehyde and DBP (dibutyl phthalate).
Nouveau Contour is the industry leader in permanent and re-constructive makeup in 26 countries. The Nouveau Academy now offers South African clients the best pigments, equipment and training and advises visitors to Professional Beauty Cape Town to R beware of imitations.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
professional beauty cape town 2016
44 Your nails need a break with Nuvanail. Repaired nails. Renewed nails. Nuvanail. Visitors are invited to Stand C46 to learn more about the brand. “Pure” Smile is the only 100% Natural Teeth whitening supplier in Africa for beauty salons, spas, hair salons and dentists. Quick: 30min once-off treatment. Efficient: gain up to nine shades. Painless: no gum irritation – no sensitive teeth.
Tammy Taylor is the trusted brand of tens of thousands salons worldwide. Visitors will fall in love with the variety and quality that this brand offers them. From acrylic, gel polishes, hard gel to spa ranges. This will be the brand’s first product awareness expo in Cape Town.
There is always something new and exciting at Radiant Healthcare. Service is an attitude that extends throughout our Radiant company. Distributor of Syneron, Cocoon medical, GSD and Ecleris. Signature Health – HOCATT™ Ozone Sauna – beauty, health and healing all starts with oxygen. Boasting eight powerful and scientifically proven therapies, the Hocatt Plus Ozone Sauna OFRA chamber provides all Cosmetics will this and so much introduce its famous more. Long Lasting
Join the revolution! Retro Revolution has launched a first in South Africa, Liquid Edge – Nail Tape. Show visitors are invited to the stand to get a free sample to and see how easily this product works.
Liquid Lipsticks, as Sparkle Cosmetics well as the OFRA (Gelish, Morgan exceptional Taylor and Artistic) launches Revolution skincare and – the latest in longmake-up The mascara lasting nail colour. line. revolution. Revolution wears up to Enhance your 10 days and incorporates a eyelashes by up to breakthrough crystal shine, 5-free 300% with WOW 3D formulation, in 56 showstopping Fibre Lashes. These shades. lashes are made from Studex will 100% natural demonstrate tree tea fibre to salon and beeswax. owners how Requiring only a five-minute offering a Studex earapplication, the lashes last all piercing service can day and can be removed with increase both income facial cleanser and water. and foot traffic into their All the products, tools, gels and tips in business. Very easy to use the world mean nothing if you’re not and extremely hygienic, Studex completely comfortable using them. systems can be used for belly- and That’s why customer service at Young nose-piercing, as well as for earNails and the relationships they have piercing. Studex looks forward to with their nail techs are truly the most meeting both new and existing important thing for the company. PB customers. Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
For more information about Professional Beauty Cape Town, visit: www.probeauty.co.za.
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Medical aesthetics in focus With the theme, ‘Rejuvenate your practice’, the Medical Aesthetics (MA) Convention will run parallel to Professional Beauty Cape Town at the CTICC on 12 and 13 March.
M
edical doctors, aestheticians and therapists are sure to find many sessions of interest at the MA Convention, according to conference director Karen Ellithorne. “As facial rejuvenation is a really hot topic globally, we have included a session called, ‘The 4D Facelift’,” says Ellithorne. “In this session, plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr Nerina Wilkinson, will talk about how treatment modalities, such as lipofilling, fillers, threads and fractional resurfacing lasers, can be successfully combined for natural facial rejuvenation. “Lip enhancement will also be a focus at the convention. Dr Zak Schabort, founder of the nationwide Cosmetic and Dental Emporium, will reveal why he thinks that indirect methods of lip enhancement have become superior in today’s medical aesthetics arena. Dr Schabort will demonstrate how to restore the attractiveness of an ageing mouth through the use of minimally invasive procedures.” A new technique in eye rejuvenation, called Soft Surgery, will be unpacked by Dr Marisa Heyns in a session devoted to non-ablative blephrophlasty. This new treatment modality involves new and less invasive aesthetic technologies and techniques that would otherwise require cosmetic surgery. “Clinical pharmacist, David Arthur (R.Ph), will present what is sure to be an intriguing session, on the essential co-ordinates that need to be in place for mitochondrial
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skin repair. David, who was the first pharmacist in South Africa to be board-certified by the American Academy for Anti-Ageing and Regenerative Medicine, will also present another session called, ‘Nuts & Bolts of Stress Management’, in which he will reveal what physiological steps can be made to avoid ageing naturally. “South African skincare legend and founder of Environ, Dr Des Fernandes, will present a session on retinol and how it can be used to address many skincare concerns, including photo-ageing, coarse texture, enlarged pores and acne scarring,” explains Ellithorne. Dr Duncan Carmichael of The Anti-Ageing Clinic in Sea Point will demonstrate how to combine PDO threads and fillers for a superior result when performing mid-face volumisation on a client. In another session he will talk on how to treat menopause with bioidentical hormones, an alternative to conventional HRT (Hormone Replacement Therapy). Other topics and speakers include: Facial and Hand Rejuvenation (Dr Gerhard van Niekerk); Platelet-Rich Plasma (Dr Kamlen Pillay); Translational Nutrigenomics (Dr Yael Joffe); Laser Case Studies (Amy Bowie) and Managing Vitamin D deficiencies (speaker to be confirmed). PB
To book your seat for the MA Convention visit www.medicalaesthetics.co.za Please note that the programme is subject to change.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
product focus – natural and organic
46
Pure
and simple
With ‘natural’ products, it is intimated that the ingredients listed are all of natural origin (i.e. from plant or animal sources). ‘Organic’ denotes that the natural ingredient is, further, free from pesticides, synthetics and preservatives. Products claiming an organic status should always bear organic certification from a reputable source.
Fixed up! DermaFix Argan 100% Organic is both ECOCERT and NaTruecertified, as a 100% pure and organic form of Argan Oil for the benefit of skin, hair and nail protection and moisturisation. Suitable for all skin types, including sensitised, eczema and psoriasis-prone skin, it protects against moisture loss and oxidative damage. 0861 28 23 23
Sensitive probiotics Esse, South Africa’s certified organic, export-ready brand, has just launched a line formulated specifically for sensitive, reactive skin types. Incorporating new probiotic technology that regulates and normalises sensitive skin, the products contain mild, certified organic plant ingredients to ensure an effective skincare routine. 033 212 3506
‘Zoned’-out A new RégimA Zone product that contains natural and organic ingredients, plus hightech synthesised natureidentical actives, is the super-rich night product, Zone Age Reversal Night Complex. Designed to specifically target the mechanisms of skin ageing, it provides protection and repair from damage caused by age-related stresses. 011 615 2869
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product focus – natural and organic
47 Aromatic purity CSpa Aroma Wellness is the new-generation aroma wellness natural brand based on aromatherapy purist principles. The fusions of ancient aromatherapy philosophies combined with simplistic and modern applications make this range a high-performance olfactory experience, with hints of Africa at various levels. 011 880 3851
Complex complexes The South African range of Lilian Terry Homeopathic Aromatherapy products for body, face, hair, feet and nails, is 100% natural and contains no added preservatives, synthetic colouring or fragrances, and is not tested on animals. These complexes are presented in eyecatching coloured glass bottles which are recyclable.
Garden of Eden New to South Africa, the Skintopia range is produced in a traditional fashion. Using renewable resources, the products are hand-crafted into a range of healing and high-vibrational combinations. All products are produced in small batches to ensure product quality, freshness and body care efficacy. 083 325 5217
012 361 2606
Ear-candling
Cleanest ever The Mio and Mama Mio ‘‘No Nasties’’ policy is the company’s assurance that these are the cleanest, most effective skincare products possible, made and developed in the safest way possible. Not only are the products free from all harmful ingredients, but they also actually work on delivering the results they promise.
Handmade from 100% natural ingredients, Biosun Traditional Ear Candles offer a non-invasive therapy for physical, emotional and mental rejuvenation. The warm airwaves from the pure ingredients massage your auditory canal and increase alpha brain wave activity, releasing serotonin, dopamine and endorphins. Ear candles are ideal for ear problems, headaches, colds, sinusitis and hay fever. 011 803 5445
011 033 0500
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
training
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A solid grounding
Speak to spa- and salon-owners around South Africa and many will say that they struggle to find appropriately trained staff who are committed to their jobs. Joanna Sterkowicz investigates.
W
hen recruiting therapists for spas and salons, owners/managers need to look at CVs with international and national examination outcomes, for example SAAHSP (South African), CIDESCO (Swiss) and ITEC (British). So says Sandy Fuhr of the Beauty Therapy Institute, who admits that one of the most difficult things to teach students is attitude and ethics. “All schools are compelled to teach and instil these values,” continues Fuhr. “The new generation, however, has a different way of approaching the workforce, especially in our industry. We are working with ladies, so pregnancy and
babies are a big problem, as therapists have to work long hours, including weekends and evenings.” Eunice Bredenkamp, national education manager for Nimue Skin Technology, adds: “We must acknowledge that all accredited institutions for skincare have a compulsory element that teaches students about work ethics – both theory and practical. Beyond that, one cannot rely on the tertiary institutions to teach work ethics, as it is something that is already moulded throughout the 12 years of school and before school by their parents. Once students enter the workforce, it is up to their employers and associates to reinforce the teachings
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
training
49
“
Once students enter the workforce, it is up to their employers and associates to reinforce the teachings from college in their early years of working and ensure that they are carried through.
“
Eunice Bredenkamp
from college in their early years of working and ensure that they are carried through. As a product house, Nimue is very passionate about education, ethics and education. It is for this reason that we have included ‘work ethic’ talks in our educational syllabus.”
Delusions of grandeur There are reportedly many students who have an air of superiority and who think they are above certain duties, such as cleaning chores in the salon. “Having just been involved in the opening of salons in the UK, I am impressed to see therapists scrubbing floors, washing dishes and doing all their own cleaning,” comments Fuhr. “In South Africa we joke at our colleges that the learners will get certificates and diplomas in beauty from their external examiners and degrees from us in hygiene and
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cleaning, however this doesn’t carry through to the industry.” RégimA educator Jocelyn Frick concurs: “Unfortunately the youth of today are a different species. Training proves to be challenging, with the students being disrespectful, disruptive and unappreciative of your time and effort. “While we like to think that the youth are the future of our industry, and thus want to supply them with the RégimA training early in their careers, I do feel quite concerned, as presently the majority of the youth who are studying Beauty Therapy are unenthusiastic, and motivated only by
{
money. I’ve found that the third-year groups are the only ones who have the maturity to grasp the information that I am relaying to them.”
Entry levels More than one educator in the industry has been heard to say that the level of students entering beauty schools is not as high as in previous years. Fuhr responds: “The entry level for our schools is still grade 12 for a full qualification outcome. However, the level 4 (matric) learner is educated to a lower level than previously. I believe the Department of Education has had to lower the
Lecturers at government-subsidised learning institutions get frustrated because they have to accept students if they comply with just the bare minimum criteria. Jacqueline Ferreira
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
training
50 standards in an attempt to bring everyone up to one level.” Jacqueline Ferreira, a RégimA educator, elaborates further. “The quality of the student entering into the college is not on par with the students of five years ago. In terms of a medical skincare brand like RégimA, we’ve seen that students sometimes do not grasp the seriousness of correct prescription, as they do not see the difference between a cosmetic and a cosmeceutical. Lecturers at government-subsidised learning institutions get frustrated because they have to accept students if they comply with just the bare minimum criteria.” Bredenkamp stresses that this topic is a sensitive one. “However, I can say that you will always have a mixed bag of students. Today one still finds really well-educated and enthusiastic students, as well as students who assume that beauty is ‘an easy career/course and just something to do’ and carry that attitude through in Short course graduates often their execution. I think that if skincare education in general lack knowledge in understanding the is regulated, and entrance fundamental basics of skin histology on into colleges and institutions is monitored carefully and which the skincare industry is built. taken more seriously, this Ursula Hunt problem can be avoided.”
“
Short vs long Ursula Hunt, managing director of DermaFix, observes that there is a strong tendency within the skincare industry for institutions to offer students short courses, or modular training, for 12 days or less, rather than having them complete a full two- or three-year diploma course. “These graduates often lack
“
Ferreira notes that many employers these days who focus on relaxation-related treatments choose to employ entrylevel therapists. “There are a few skills development programmes in the industry at present that favour candidates from previously disadvantaged backgrounds and assist them to become massage therapists. So, the employment of these ladies is impacting on the employment market for the more advanced therapists.”
knowledge in understanding the fundamental basics of skin histology on which the skincare industry is built. Information is often committed to short-term memory, rather than being carried through with the graduates into the working world. “Practical experience further comprises a large part of working on the skin with confidence. Short courses often lack the practical experience leading to a ‘qualification’, with the result that unconfident skincare professionals are entering the working environment,” explains Hunt. Bredenkamp maintains that it can be quite confusing for potential students to know which course to take. “There are many training institutions in South Africa which offer skincare courses that range from two-month
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
short courses to three-year diploma and degree courses. I would recommend that one contacts SAAHSP for guidance on where to take courses that are endorsed by them. “With so many different training institutions, it’s difficult to assess which are recognised and endorsed by the SAAHSP, and whether the accreditation received is sufficient for the workplace. The fees are incredibly high for skincare and body therapy courses. It is for this reason that one finds different competencies in therapists at beauty salons and/or often aesthetic clinics too. Potential students will question why they need to do a three-year course if they can do a two-month crash course and walk into the same job/work environment?” According to Fuhr, many colleges in South Africa have closed down and there are far less therapists training these days.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
training
51 Therapist recruitment criteria
make an ‘impression’ on them and often opt to work with such brands once they embark on a career. So, from a company point of view, it is imperative to utilise any exposure one can get or any opportunity to allow students to make contact with our product.”
the therapist receive her/his qualification through an • Did accredited and registered tertiary institution? • Is this institution recognised internationally? • Is the therapist able to communicate well? the therapist able to explain to a client what it is that they • Isneed for their skin in various situations and do they know the
Remuneration
product that they are recommending to clients?
Fuhr believes that low salaries have given the industry a dreadful Insist on a practical session to show how the therapist was reputation. “Spa- and salon-owners taught to conduct treatments. This will also demonstrate the need to make a concerted effort therapist’s level of work ethic and capabilities. to start paying their employees properly, firstly in order to find good Is the therapist well-groomed? therapists, and, secondly, to change the image of this industry as being Criteria by Eunice Bredenkamp (Nimue) poor payers. Salon- and spa-owners need to look The way of teaching has also changed in “The way of teaching at their remuneration has also changed in percentage and adjust a big way from the traditional teaching of a big way from the the way they pay. This a full qualification, full-time, to teaching traditional teaching of will lead to therapists a full qualification, fullwanting to stay in the parts of the full diploma, part-time. time, to teaching parts industry versus leaving Sandy Fuhr of the full diploma, partto work in banks or as time. This helps the secretaries, which pays therapy-related treatments, which double what therapists earn. My working woman as well as the person is causing confusion and limiting guestimate is that the rate of fall-out who only wants to focus on individual the scope of practice for therapists from the industry is as high as 90%. or single-skill outcomes. as they are trying to make more The only die-hards are the salon/ “Speciality salons are opening, for treatments medical in classification spa and school-owners, due to their example brow bars, nail bars, waxing so that individuals need to register outlay and commitment. ” studios, etc. To find the full, allwith them. In my opinion it would rounder therapist is hard. This is due Bredenkamp has found that most be a great opportunity for therapists therapists stop working for a boss to the economic situation – fees are so to be recognised under the health approximately three years after high for two or three years of study, industry and for medical and beauty college. “From here the common and then they come out and earn a to be under an umbrella of health and trend is to either open a salon or pittance,” concludes Fuhr. wellness, where there are benchmarks do treatments from the comfort of and parameters set for individuals their home; or to follow a different Curricula operating within this arena. This would and more fulfilling career path Susan Lockie, another RégimA also separate the therapists who are altogether.” PB educator, thinks that curriculum-wise, serious about the industry South African training schools are from those that are just trying to keep up to date with trends interested in glamour. and industry demands. I think the biggest challenge “Due to declining health “They are also applying globally the health and standardisations based on NQF is for Beauty Therapy/Somatology wellness industry has been (National Qualifications Framework) to be recognised within the health/ earmarked as the next levels and SAQA (South African medical industry, as the Allied Health economic growth sector, Qualifications Authority) so that generating trillions of rands the qualification is recognised at a Professionals Council of South Africa and dollars,” notes Lockie. standard level to compare to other has stipulated restrictions across qualification across different faculties, such as commerce, law, etc. Brand power various modalities of massage and “I think the biggest challenge is Ferreira has been witness therapy-related treatments, which is for Beauty Therapy/Somatology to to how positively it can causing confusion and limiting the be recognised within the health/ impact on a brand if young medical industry, as the Allied Health students are introduced to scope of practice for therapists. Professionals Council of South Africa it at college level. Susan Lockie has stipulated restrictions across “They seem to various modalities of massage and remember the ones that
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online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
nails
52
The perfect nail recruit There are many elements to consider when opening a nail salon, the most important being your staff, who can either make or break your business, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
W
hen I started out in the industry more than 26 years ago, being a nail technician was a highly sought-after occupation, one that you were very proud of and passionate about. At that time there were very few places you could go to attend a certified nail technology course. Beauty schools only offered basic manicure and pedicure courses and there was the odd distributor who offered training in nail enhancement application. Consequently most of us ended up doing a beauty therapy course followed by a nail technology course with a specific distributor. These courses encompassed absolutely everything – from nail anatomy to diseases & disorders of the skin and nails, hygiene & sanitation, salon safety, consultation & communication, product chemistry &
knowledge, and retail skills. Only once you had covered these topics could you progress to learning about the different nail enhancement systems. My best-ever learning experience was when I actually started working in a nail salon and even more so when I had my own salon. I never stopped learning and have attended ongoing training and courses throughout my career. This is what eventually drove me to become an educator. The industry has grown incredibly since, with more and more salons opening, new suppliers bringing in innovative products and so many more places that offer training. This has led to an increase in the number of people attending courses, creating an abundance of nail technicians and manicurists in our industry. Yet finding appropriately trained and experienced nail technicians
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
53
can be quite a challenge. Salons want qualified and experienced nail techs who require minimal training, and can just get on with the job as quickly as possible. However, salon-owners need to accept that people like that are few and far between. They will need to invest in their techs by training and grooming them. Techs must be fully au fait with the salon’s protocols, procedures and products to provide the best possible service to clients.
The right stuff How do you, as a salon owner, know whether you are employing the right person for the job? Staff can be recruited through specialised employment agencies, beauty schools, distributors, social media or through advertising and even referrals. The big concern is that you just don’t know what you’re going to get, no matter which route you go. Applicants should produce a CV with all their personal information, qualifications, work experience and history, certificates, and possibly even testimonials. However, even with all the paper work and credentials, recruiting could turn out to be R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
nails
54 a fruitless exercise if you don’t know what to look out for. Do you employ nail techs fresh out of training or more experienced techs? Well, both options have their pros and cons: ‘newbies’ that have come from a reputable institution are great, as you can mould them through further advanced training. They can also be more inclined to embrace new techniques far more readily. But, if they have not been correctly trained, then problems will arise. An experienced nail tech, on the other hand, could start working in your salon immediately with minimal training. However, they could have picked up bad habits during their career and they might be a little more stubborn in that they think they know it all and could be reluctant to learn further.
Recommended training • Theory on Natural Nail Structure & Anatomy, Diseases and Disorders • Nail Brand History/ Background • Product Knowledge • Practical Application • Product Techniques – Natural, French Manicure & Colour Application
training institution. However, when I asked them some questions and to perform a nail enhancement service, I discovered that these candidates had learnt six different beauty modules (not all in nail technology) in just 12 weeks. Their certificates were sadly not even worth the paper they were printed on, and they are definitely going to have to go back to the basics and be retrained. I wonder how many other nail techs like this there are in the industry? So, how do you know whether a training institution is reputable and professional? By finding out whether the institution offers the correct skills training and whether they are accredited by an established accreditation body. Likewise, ask accreditation bodies for a list of their accredited training schools.
Let the candidate perform the necessary treatments or services you require to assess their skills. Allow the candidate to ask you questions so that they are clear about your expectations. Don’t just look at a CV and take what you read as verbatim, rather check out the information. Ask the candidate questions and call people who can give references. Check whether the certificates come from a reputable and professional training institute. Let the candidate perform the necessary treatments or services you require to assess their skills. Allow the candidate to ask you questions so that they are clear about your expectations.
Institutions It seems that beauty and nail technology training institutions are popping up everywhere; some offer extensive and accredited training, while others produce nail techs who are not able to do the job. I recently came across a few nail techs applying for a position; their certificates looked fine and they seemed to come from an accredited
Standards LCN marketing manager, Yvette Nel, an experienced nail technician and previously an educator, believes the standard of training has improved over the years within the brands/ companies that offer training. “Unfortunately for all the nail professionals who work hard to make a living, there are suppliers who sell to untrained nail technicians. I often come across ladies who are ‘selftrained’, and their knowledge of the
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
correct handling of tools, equipment and products is non-existent. They often cause extreme damage to natural nails, especially their own,” says Nel. She believes that the courses that do not offer instant qualification provide enough knowledge about nail technology, relevant to the type of training. “It is important to have ongoing assistance from your supplier and to attend classes regularly. It is a known fact that when working actively in a salon daily, nail technicians pick up ‘bad’ habits, so they should attend training courses at least every six months. Educators should also receive regular training.” According to Nel, a tech applying for a job must be able to show original training certificates and provide copies thereof. She must perform at least one set of nails to show her skills. If an employer is in any doubt about the technician’s qualification they should contact the training institute. Similarly, nail techs should check out the professional viability of training institutions prior to signing up. PB
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: sonettevr@gmail.com
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hair news
55
Crowning
glory
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
And the winner is… Lewis Thomas from Partners Hair Design won the Best Show and the Hairstylist of the Year awards at the Twincare International-hosted Hairstylist of the Year 2016 – South African Hairdressing Awards held at Gold Reef City on 6 December. Other winners were: Skye Coutinho from Franco’s International (Young Blood category); Maretha Van Wyk from Pasquale Hairstylists (Avant Garde category); Rootz Hair Studio (The Team category); and Shawn Odendaal from Paul James Hairdressing (The Boyz category). 011 305 1600
Awesome cover Color Wow, the winner of an unprecedented 30 beauty industry awards, is an easy-to-apply, temporary solution to gray roots and dark regrowth. Proprietary oil-based mineral powder binds to hair without being sticky or oily. The water-resistant formula stays in place until shampooed out and comes in seven versatile shades. 011 305 1600
Chatting to Musyoka Local hair brand Blk Sapphire recently hosted its first-ever seminar in South Africa, in Midrand, with IAT-certified Kenyan trichologist, Muli Musyoka, who spoke about different types of hair loss, the different treatment options and preventative measures. Sageone was an event sponsor, with assistance from Dr Barbara Keitumetsi Mashope-Potgieter. 061 479 4377
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Inoar treatment centre opens Brazilian brand Inoar Professional recently opened its firstever South African treatment centre, in Waterkloof, Pretoria. Designed as a space for professional training, the centre is open to consumers for treatments, as well as cut and blow wave services. All eight of the brand’s therapeutic in-salon treatments are available. 012 346 1721
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
Rejuvenate your practice
Don’t miss the opportunity to gain knowledge about the latest treatments, procedures, treatment tips, marketing and business strategies – all delivered by leading experts in their respective fields.
C O N V ENTION 2016 12 and 13 March 2016 ICC Cape Town
Earn
10
CPD Points Book online at www.medicalaesthetics.co.za
If you are a medical aesthetics practitioner, therapist or you think that aesthetic medicine could benefit your business, then this is a must attend convention.
Why should you attend? • Receive a CPD certificate • Invaluable networking opportunities • Claim your share in a booming market • Gain top tips and advice from industry experts • Discuss the issues and challenges facing by the industry today • Learn about cutting-edge technologies, new products and services
medical aesthetics trends
57
Medical aesthetics trends for
2016
Karen Ellithorne surveys experts’ opinions on what the medical aesthetics sector has in store for the coming year.
T
en years ago, it was only celebrities and the extremely wealthy who opted for aesthetic injectable procedures like toxins and fillers. More and more we are finding these treatments commonplace among everyday people, with acceptance of this form of anti-ageing intervention having dramatically evolved. Dr Alek Nikolic, an aesthetic practitioner based in the Cape, says that he expects to see a continuation in the growth in the popularity of toxins worldwide. He feels, however, that this will be more gradual in the developed countries, but foresees a big increase in growth in South Africa in 2016. “I feel that fillers are underutilised in South Africa for a number of reasons, including, but not limited to, unnatural results, lack of proper injecting technique of some of our local doctors, and consumer fear. With good training and education R
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
medical aesthetics trends
58 programmes, the techniques will improve and with it consumers’ results, thus resulting in a dramatic increase in dermal filler treatments,” predicts Nicolic. Dr Melanie Lambrechts, of The Centre of Wellness in Sandton, adds: “Dermal fillers are being used in new and exciting ways, such as in the eyebrow and chin areas, as well as the earlobes. Botulinum toxin injections are increasing, being used in a gentler and more subtle way that respects the fact that natural expression is desirable.”.
1.
Threads,
She goes on to say that threads and sutures of many kinds are being added to these treatments to augment the lifting and tightening of areas such as the heavy jowl and mid-face area. “My prediction for 2016 is a sharp upward curve in the use of these resorbable threads, as more doctors are trained in their use and see the boosted effect that can be achieved with these powerful threads,” comments Lambrechts.
2.
Fat transfers,
Taking out fat from the abdomen and putting the healthy fat back into the face or breast is a growing industry, says Dr Duncan Carmichael from the Institute of Healthy Ageing In Cape Town. “This type of treatment can achieve results that other treatments can’t hope to copy. The new generation fatremoval machines make fat extraction easy and non-painful. Although you are advised to take the day off from work, this is almost becoming a lunchtime procedure,” he says. “Fat that is transferred back into the skin also comes with growth factors and stem cells. “After two months the results do not just plump up the skin but give a glow to an older skin from the transferred stem cells. This is a treatment to watch in 2016,” states Carmichael.
3.
Surgery, perspective,
“The new trend in my practice is that younger patients are requesting facelifts. Patients aged 40 to 45 want to prevent major surgery later by starting younger,” says Dr Nerina Wilkinson, plastic surgeon from Renaissance Body Science Institute in Cape Town. “Liquid facelifts have become very popular for rejuvenating faces. Facial soft tissues are lost through ageing and need to be replaced through 3D
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
volumetric treatments,” continues Wilkinson. “A conventional facelift removes flaccid skin to achieve a tightening around the lower face. However, rejuvenating the skin and restructuring the soft tissues, without pulling the facial tissues, achieves a more natural youthful appearance,” says Wilkinson. She notes that for patients who require extensive volume replacement, the trend is to combine regular hyaluronic gel fillers with a stem cell facelift of lipostructure, nano fat grafting and skin tightening with resurfacing lasers. “Nano fat injection is the latest advancement and concept in fat grafting. Studies have shown that stem cells in the nano fat solution are responsible for skin rejuvenation and are a great advancement in wrinkle treatment. Nano fat grafting is used in all surgical face and brow lifting, crow’s feet, forehead lines, smokers’ lines and acne scarring treatments. This technique improves the outcome of all facial treatments and facial surgery can now be even less invasive,” Wilkinson explains. In some patients, where volumising techniques are not sufficient, then sub-dermal threads can be placed to lift the tissues in conjunction with the other 3D treatments to achieve a 4D lift. “In my opinion, threads should be used with a volumising treatment for an optimal result,” advises Wilkinson.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
medical aesthetics trends
59
says the use of pre-mixed, clever combinations of active ingredients in a sterile ampoule is the trend for 2016. “This will allow the professional to save time, achieve better results and, hopefully, re-ignite the industry’s interest in the benefits of mesotherapy.”
6.
4.
Peels,
Within the peels sector of aesthetics there is a trend to place stronger peels (TCA medium depth peels) deeper into the skin by flushing them down the holes made by dermarollers, according to Carmichael. “In the past this was seen as a bad idea, as there was a fear that the TCA peel in the dermis of the skin was too much of an irritant and would cause itching and hypersensitivity under the skin. This fear seems to have melted away and people are pushing peels deeper and harder to stimulate collagen strengthening reactions,” he says. “However, on the other hand, there is a quiet movement that maintains that less is more if done regularly. They believe that regular, gentle skin peels in combination with other stimulating procedures are not only a pleasant experience but will slowly rebuild an ageing skin. I think this is the direction in which the peel industry should be moving,” advises Carmichael.
5.
Mesotherapy,
Carmichael feels that there is still room for growth in the mesotherapy sector, however it has unfortunately been flattened by the excitement around needling techniques of the skin and PRP (platelet-rich plasma) growth factor injections. Ana Engelbrecht from AnaClinical
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Skin needling in, conjunction, with peptides,
Says Wilkinson: “When collagen is broken down, short segments called peptides are formed. These ‘mini proteins’ are active and help restore the skin by sending a signal to your skin that it is damaged and needs to make new collagen. “Applying peptides directly to your skin is a way to trick your skin into thinking that it has lost collagen recently and needs to make more. Therefore skin products that contain signal peptides are effective in improving the appearance of fine lines by stimulating the formation of new collagen and regenerating the skin. This is a trend in cosmeceuticals that I expect to see grow in 2016. “For a supercharged effect of these collagen-boosting proteins, they can be applied in conjunction with penneedling, a trend that began in 2014 and continues to still be very popular, for enhanced penetration of actives and a noticeable more youthful and brighter skin,” suggests Wilkinson.
7.
Vitamin infusions,
High-dose vitamin infusions, as an alternative to oral supplementation, have become the rage and have started to make their way to our local markets. “For an infusion, vitamins are added to a solution containing the same salt concentration as your blood to aid absorption and take about 20 to 30 minutes to infuse,” says Dr Kamlen Pillay of Wembley Clinic in Cape Town. “The doctor will prescribe a cocktail of vitamins indicated for the patients’ needs and it seems that people do get
an immediate dramatic effect after the treatment. However, there are no proper controlled studies on these treatments as yet,” he cautions. On the skincare front, Carmichael says the main ingredient in vitamin drips is Glutathione. “This will help with pigment reduction, but, like any pigment treatment, the results are not permanent and you need to consider how much you are spending and how much benefit you are getting.” The clients of 2016 are well informed and have done their research with regards to aesthetic treatments. They are usually visiting an aesthetic clinic on the referral of a friend or colleague who has had a treatment with a good result. “It’s our role as trained clinician to put it all together in a package that makes both financial and scientific sense, as well as bringing in the aesthetic and artistic goal of natural-looking facial enhancement,” concludes Lambrechts. PB
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
products
60
In the market
Our round-up of newly launched products.
Travelling kit
r
0861 28 23 23
Intense treatment OA Skin Intensive’s 30% Mandelic Acid is an exfoliation procedure that can be used throughout the year. As a skin treatment, it rejuvenates, moisturises, restores the skin’s oil/water balance, normalises excessive dead cell layer formation on the skin, lightens the skin and improves sun damage. 076 890 0069
Cold comfort
Eyes right r PCA Skin has introduced two Ideal Complex products: the Revitalising Eye Gel and the Restorative Eye Cream. The products result in the reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles; a 91% improvement in sagging upper eyelids; and all the benefits of retinol without any irritation. A gel or cream option is available.
r
A new MD Prescriptives Kit has been launched, comprising travelsize products that target ageing, hyperpigmentation and acne-prone skin. MD Prescriptives utilises research to unlock the power of cosmeceuticals for the demands of an ageing population.
r
Cold Cream Marine from Thalgo provides intense lipid-replenishing, soothing and repairing benefits to the skin. It features a soothing biomimetic lipopeptide to improve the skin’s tolerance, and organic White Lupin extract with the ability to help to reactivate the synthesis of epidermal lipids. 011 880 3851/0
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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products
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Ideal for ageing skin, Vitaforce C Cream from Janssen Cosmetics combines low- and high-molecular hyaluronic acid to ensure noticeable skin smoothness and long-lasting improvement of the moisture content in the upper layers of the epidermis. Vitamin C phosphate (a stabilised form of vitamin C) penetrates deep into the skin tissue. 02408 7046 0
Charcoal to the rescue!
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Vitamin C power
Dermalogica’s Charcoal Rescue Masque, set for a South African launch in April 2016, detoxifies, brightens, and invigorates all skin conditions, with ingredients that draw out excess oil and impurities, refine pores, calm redness, and improve skin texture and smoothness. 011 268 0018
Without any needles
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Sun-smart
Nimue Skin Technology introduces two sunscreen body sprays – Active SPF 30 and Sport SPF 50 Water Resistant. The sprays are formulated with a multi-approach strategy to offer certified high broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, while assisting the skin to resist pro-ageing solar radiations (UV and IR).
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Biorestore Needle-Free from Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals is a collagen and elastin filler that activates the gene responsible for boosting aged fibroblast activity, Collagen I and III, as well as elastin synthesis. It contains anti-stress peptides that counteract the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, and a stem cell activator and copper complex. 011 314 9222
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
saahsp
64
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
Quality assurance of schools SAAHSP Professional Body has been appointed by the Quality Council for Trade and Occupations (QCTO) to quality assure all schools wishing to offer any or all of the learning programmes listed under the Qualification 58310: National Diploma: Health and Skincare.
The relevant learning programmes include: • National Diploma: Health and Skin Therapy; • CIDESCO Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy; • CIBTAC Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy; and • SAAHSP Diploma: Health and Skincare Therapy. The SAAHSP Quality Assurance Partner (QAP) Delegation Function is defined as follows: • Accredits providers for the qualification 58310 National Diploma: Health and Skincare; • Monitors the provision by providers of learning programmes leading to the qualification; • Evaluates learner facilitation, assessment and the moderation of learner assessments by providers; • Registers assessors to undertake assessments for specified qualifications; • Certifies learners in accordance with the policy determined by the Minister in terms of section 26F of the SDA; • Maintains a comprehensive learner information management system; • Uploads learner data to the NLRD according to the NLRD load specifications; • Performs functions consistent with the NQF Act and the SDA.
A
ny school wishing to apply for accreditation as a training provider must apply to SAAHSP at info@ saahsp.co.za, whereupon the QAP checklist will be sent to the school. On confirmation of application for QAP, an invoice will be sent to the school and on receipt of payment, a date will be set aside for the inspection. The duration of the site visit can take up to three hours and a report will then be compiled by the external verifier. All successful schools will be listed as provisionally accredited until the first external moderation has been completed for the applied learning programme. The school will be accredited after the first successful external moderation has been achieved. SAAHSP QAP will monitor the provision by providers of learning programmes leading to the qualification, and an external monitoring and moderation process will be followed. Learner assessment and facilitation of moderation of learner assessment by providers will be evaluated. Assessors will be appointed to undertake assessment for specified qualifications. Staff offering the above qualifications must have completed the following unit standard and show proof that their registration is for the specified qualification. Proof can
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2016
be provided in terms of showing your personal qualification e.g. completion of the SAAHSP, ITEC, CIDESCO or Higher Education Qualification with a Registered Training Provider.
SAQA US ID
UNIT STANDARD TITLE
115753
Conduct outcomes-based assessment
Staff will be required to register with SAAHSP as educators with proof of the above unit standard achievement. The fee for 2016 is R530 if paid before 31/3/16 (normal rate = R562). Learners will be certified in accordance with the policy determined by the Minister in terms of section 26F of the SDA. SAAHSP QAP shall issue a statement of result with all relevant information regarding the qualification and will maintain a comprehensive learner information management system. SAAHSP utilises the mBase database system that will capture all relevant information required to keep records as per SAQA standards. Learners will register with SAAHSP annually (2016 fee = R175 per learner). PB For more information contact Joelette Theron at the SAAHSP office on info@saahsp.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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