Mar April 2016

Page 1

Mar/Apr 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

All fired up Fire prevention in the spa

Eye of the needle

Threads in aesthetic treatments Front desk staff

Sagacious software Spa & salon management

Patriotic products SA skincare brands

Dudeville male grooming trends


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16

40

34

60

In this issue... Regulars

Salon Focus

Features

7 Industry news

27 Flagship Environ salon opens

34 Be the man!

Local and international news

54 Hair news

What’s hot and happening in the hair industry

58 Product news

63 SAAHSP

Amani Spa at Mara Bushtops

20 Making an impact How to create a lasting impression on clients

Man-centric products

40 Mobile transacting

Using apps in the spa / salon

42 The power of SMS Targeted communications

43 A ‘Guru-like’ system

60 It’s all in the threads

44 South African skincare brands

The thread lift

Tracking the industry with stats

All your questions answered

Male grooming trends

38 It’s raining men!

Medical Aesthetics

16 Ask the experts

Fire prevention in the spa

32 Into the wild

15 Insider

29 Under fire

The latest news from SAAHSP

Business

Spa Focus

All the latest launches

Spotlight on PHD Skin Retreat

Salon management software

Nails

55 From SA to the Middle East

53 Skin rejuvenation on the cards

Reflections on the Professional Beauty GCC Nail Competition

Home grown products

Treatment review

22 The lifeblood of your business

Understanding and maintaining cash flow

24 Beyond the connection

What does ‘connected’ mean to you?

44 online at www.probeauty.co.za

32 Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


Welcome

A

t the time of writing this welcome note, we were halfway through the first quarter of 2016 and suffering from the effects of an ever weakening currency and an interest rate hike. These factors have severely affected the price of overseas skincare and body products, and in turn the rate cards of spas and salons.

In this issue we focus on the wide range of wonderful South African skincare brands available in the market. One of the big advantages of selecting a local skincare brand for your salon or spa is that the price won’t be directly affected by the exchange rate, although many local brands import their ingredients. Any successful business needs to have cash flow at all times, but as our contributing writer, Debbie Merdjan, points out, the very thought of cash flow and how to attain it, can strike fear in the heart of a salon or spa owner. Merdjan provides some useful tips on how to stay ahead of the curve in terms of cash flow. This issue includes our annual review of male grooming trends. Each year we hear that more and more men are visiting salons and spas, meaning that this is an important market. But, it’s how you target this no-longer-niche market that counts. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

all fired up Fire prevention in the spa

Eye of the needle

Threads in aesthetic treatments Front desk staff

sagacious software Spa & salon management

Managing Director Yolanda Knott

083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

mark@probeauty.co.za

phil@probeauty.co.za

Subscribe 9 issues for R475 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz

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Art Director Ursula Wong

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Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall

082 880 2047 alex@probeauty.co.za

On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com

International Sales Executive Melinda Alevras 072 160 6353 melinda@probeauty.co.za

Patriotic Products SA skincare brands

Dudeville

011 781 5970

Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970

Mar/Apr 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

Publisher Mark Moloney

male grooming trends

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

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Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

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industry news

7

News All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

GCC franchise deal for Mommy Wellness As per a master franchise deal with MASGO Ventures for the GCC (Cooperation Council for the Arab States of the Gulf), the first Mommy Wellness Day Spa in Bahrain will open its doors at the end of April. By: Menina&May

E

Izelle Louw

stablished in 2012 in South Africa, Mommy Wellness focuses on providing women, particularly expectant mothers, with a cosy haven to receive treatments that are both mom- and baby-friendly. Says Mommy Wellness founder and CEO, Izelle Louw: “MASGO Ventures, a company that acquires and brings unique international lifestyle concepts to the GCC, came across our website and fell in love with the Mommy Wellness concept. They have acquired the franchise for the whole GCC/Gulf region. The first Mommy Wellness

Gibson keynote at International Spa Convention Andrew Gibson, VP Spa and Wellness at the Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts, will deliver the keynote address at the International Spa Convention, which takes place on 28 and 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre, as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show. The Dubai-based Gibson will speak on key issues pertaining to the development of spa/ salon businesses in South Africa. (See page 26 for more information about the International Spa Convention)

online at www.probeauty.co.za

branch will open in Bahrain, followed by Saudi, Dubai, Kuwait and Oman.” Louw flew to Bahrain in May last year, where she met with interior designers to do a presentation for the layout and design of the spa. “The Mommy Wellness Day Spas in the GCC will do exactly the same treatments that we do in South Africa and with the same brands – namely Mama Mio, Nimue and Essie,” comments Louw. In terms of international expansion for the Mommy Wellness concept, Louw is now targeting the US.

News in pictures

The Prestige Cosmetics Group (PCG) held a media event at Spier Wine Estate in Stellenbosch on 18 February to launch the Elemis Biotec Skincare range, designed to complement the Biotec range of facial treatments. Pictured are Celest Ahumada Els (PCG), Justine Noone (Elemis International Business Manager) and Leigh-Anne Wagner (PCG).

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


industry news

8

New owners for Xtreme Lashes

News in brief

■ EDSA’s new address: Environ Distribution South Africa (EDSA) is now located at 31 Commerce Crescent, Kramerville, Sandton. Postal address; PO Box 288, Wendywood, 2144, Gauteng. Contact number: 0800 220 402.

Nerina Moodley and Elizma Smith are the new owners of Xtreme Lashes in South Africa.

M

oodley and Smith have known each other for many years, and, drawing on their mutual passion, drive and experience, have decided to join forces and grow this business to the next level. “We have identified Xtreme Lashes as a best brand fit for our business,” explains Moodley. “Having had experience with the Xtreme Lashes brand as a qualified stylist with an established client base, we have recognised that the Xtreme Lashes brand can be grown exponentially. We have identified some innovative ways to grow this brand on the African continent. Having the backing of the Xtreme Lashes International office, we

feel we can accomplish our goals.” Smith adds: “We believe that women have found these lashes to be an enhancement to their beauty regime but with longer-lasting results, as opposed to mascara or stick-on lashes.” Smith has 19 years of work experience, mainly in the sales and management arena, while Moodley is an entrepreneur, with over 10 years’ experience in the beauty industry. Xtreme Lashes South Africa is currently based in Fourways. “We are planning to open training centres countrywide,” concludes Moodley.

New appointment at The Spa Consultants Stephanie Harris has joined The Spa Consultants in KwaZulu-Natal as business development consultant and trainer. Harris is passionate about the health and wellness industry and has a strong sales background, having spent some years with Weigh-Less and with cosmetic houses in the sales and training field.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

■ Imbalie opens training centre: South African franchise group, Imbalie Beauty, will launch the Imbalie Training Academy at Woodmead Office Park, Johannesburg, in March 2016, offering modular courses in the fields of Beauty, Wellness and Fitness, Business, Image Consulting and Life Coaching. ■ Cosmetics Sector Desk implements CSC: The Cosmetics Sector Desk at the Department of Trade & Industry (the dti) has set up a Cosmetics Steering Committee (CSC) to find ways for the industry to overcome key constraints and barriers to trade. ■ Laser-Lipo KZN takes on Black Pearl: The Umhlanga, Ballito and Hillcrest branches of Laser-Lipo KZN now offer products from premium skincare range, Black Pearl. ■ Women over 50 least bodyconfident: According to research by YouGov, women in their 50s feel less confident about their bodies than any other age group. Women feel most negative about their stomach (62%), upper arms (33%) and thighs (26%). ■ Colleges should teach employability skills: Teaching employability skills in further education will help young people thrive in the jobs market, according to new research by City & Guilds, which recommends that teens be taught habits such as selfbelief, perseverance, resilience, curiosity, empathy, creativity and craftsmanship.

online at www.probeauty.co.za




indsutry news

11

Megawhite comes to SA A quick and painless in-salon teeth-whitening treatment from the UK, Megawhite, is now available in South Africa through Gráinne Seoige, a well-known Irish TV presenter and news anchor.

M

egawhite is peroxide-free and utilises ‘Blue Fusion’ technology that causes no sensitivity or structural or enamel damage. Seoige, who has 20 years in the Irish and UK TV industry, first came across Megawhite as a new treatment offering in a beauty salon in Dublin, Ireland. Says Seoige: “One’s appearance is particularly important if you have a career in television. As white teeth are associated with attractiveness, youth, health and vitality, I was interested to try Megawhite. A few years ago I tried laser toothwhitening in a dental studio in New York, but had to ask them to stop as my sensitivity to the bleach caused unbearable nerve pain. “I then tried teeth-whitening again with at-home bleaching through a dentist in Ireland after having expensive mouth trays custom-

Gráinne Seoige

made. But I gave up as I found the 10-day treatment impractical and once again, I couldn’t tolerate the nerve pain. I then thought I was done with teeth-whitening for good until I stumbled upon Megawhite.” When Seoige enquired about the

News in pictures

Dermalogica officially launched the Hydrablur Primer and Charcoal Rescue Masque at an event held at its Concept Store in Rosebank Mall, Johannesburg, on 22 February. A professional treatment – the IonActive Power Facial, scheduled to launch in June, was also previewed.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

treatment in the salon and was told it was quick and painless, she was sceptical. “But I gave it a go and found that they were telling the truth,” she continues. “I popped in the preloaded Megawhite mouth guard, sat in front of the light and hey presto! – I had whiter teeth in a quarter of an hour. There was no pain, nor did I have to avoid hot or cold food and drink afterwards.” Megawhite is subject to rigorous UK and also EU testing, standards and regulations, and complies with European Cosmetic Product Safety Regulations and also Environmental Health & Trading Standards. It is not tested on animals. “I’m delighted to be bringing Megawhite to South Africa. Spas and salons can now offer their clientele an affordable treatment that guarantees whiter teeth quickly and painlessly,” concludes Seoige.

New appointment at Poise

Lauren Greaves has been appointed marketing & PR coordinator at Poise Brands. Greaves began her career in fashion and retail whilst living in London. Her true passion lies within e-commerce and connecting with the end consumer. “I am excited to take Poise Brands into a whole new, dynamic digital era,” she says.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


industry news

12

Dr Schrammek appoints SA distributor Sandton-based Evolution Cosmetic has been appointed the South African distributor for German skincare brand Dr Schrammek. Tanya Vemirovic “The Dr Schrammek team visited Victoria Wagner South Africa recently, actively learning the ethos behind their brand seeking a distributor and we and trying the products, it was not a were lucky enough to be asked to take hard sell. The idea of a range that truly up this role,” says Evolution Cosmetic bridges the gap between the beauty Director, Victoria Wagner. “In truth we and medical worlds appealed to us. Dr were not looking for another brand, Schrammek’s Green Peel collection is as our existing brand, Dermaquest, something quite unique, comprising is steadily growing within the niche a blend of 10 herbs mechanically ‘physician only’ market. massaged into the skin, where they “After sitting with the impressive penetrate into the epidermis and team from Dr Schrammek and

actively work on new cells, to speed up cell renewal from 28 days to five.” Wagner believes there is nothing on the market to rival or compare to the brand. “Each Dr Schrammek treatment is tailored to the specific client’s requirements. This formula has barely changed in 60 years.” Together with Evolution cosmetic sales & training manager, Tanya Vemirovic, Wagner launched Dr Schrammek nationally on 1 February. “To our surprise many spa owners were already aware of the range and the Green Peel treatment. A few had worked with it overseas at some point, so, once the word was out, the phone has literally not stopped ringing,” comments Wagner.

Soprano ICE wins award

News in pictures

Alma Lasers’ Soprano ICE, distributed in South Africa by Best Lasers, won the award for Best Hair Removal Platform for 2015 in The Aesthetic Guide’s Industry Awards. Nicola Steenkamp of Best Lasers says: “Through these awards, The Aesthetic Guide honours those companies that have developed pioneering products and technologies in medical aesthetics. Winners were chosen by an esteemed panel of

judges in a wide range of treatment categories, from topical skincare to feminine rejuvenation. “Soprano ICE is the complete solution for laser hair removal and is used by advanced clinics and leading physicians around the world. With a proven safety record, this system allows you to treat a wide range of skin and hair types, including tanned skin, quickly and painlessly, all year round.”

Mulder joins Imbalie Well-known South African style expert Ryno Mulder has joined the Imbalie Beauty Group as Bodyography/Beauty Blender brand manager. Mulder’s work has been seen in fashion and beauty editorials, real life makeovers, celebrity features and on the covers of top consumer publications. He has also appeared on television and radio for SABC and DStv. In 2013 Mulder wrote, styled and published his first book, Hannon Bothma Maklik Mooi, which became the best-selling Afrikaans beauty title with more than 10 000 copies sold.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

Twincare International hosted a ‘PR & Pamper’ day for the media on 25 February at its head office in Sunninghill, Sandton. The press enjoyed facials, gel manicures and blowouts, as well as presentations on Matis, Guinot, IBD, Moroccanoil, Paul Mitchell, TIGI, Biosense and Sharplines. Pictured is Twincare International CEO, Stav Dimitriadis.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


is not a beauty product it is a business investment

Dermalogica was founded by a skin therapist, for skin therapists, so we are 100% passionate about helping you succeed. Dermalogica embraces excellence and rewards skin care therapists that show superior product knowledge and outstanding customer service. Through a unique online platform called d-tribe, therapists are rewarded for being true Dermalogica ambassadors and generating sales revenue for your skin care centre. What are you waiting for? Become an authorised Dermalogica stockist NOW and start reaping the rewards for both your skin care centre and skin care therapists. Go to www.dermalogica.co.za click on the ‘for professionals’ tab, select ‘become a stockist’ and a Business Consultant will get in touch with you and help you get your business to greater heights.

@dermalogicasa

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business trends

15

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in February 2016.

The month in numbers Insider Spa

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2016 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2015?

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

33 % BETTER

64%

0

% SAME

Insider Salon

The beauty salons we polled did not have a good February in terms of treatment business with only 33% reporting an increase, as compared to the same time last year. One respondent who did experience an increase in treatment business believes it was due to the fact that she employed a new therapist who favoured the more expensive treatments, like re-surfacing and laser. Those salons that reported a decline in treatment business said that the devalued rand and weak economy were the main factors in deterring clients. One salon also felt that political factors in the country increased the insecurity of clients. Retail business was also badly affected by the devalued rand, resulting in limited spending power of clients and the general tightening of purse strings. We asked salons what HOW DID RETAIL percentage of their clientele BUSINESS IN is male and discovered that FEBRUARY 2016 it is very small, namely – COMPARE WITH 3%. However, all salons FEBRUARY 2015? polled found that men are definitely easier to retail to than women. Reasons given were that men aren’t % BETTER interested in shopping around before purchasing. Another reason cited was % SAME that male clients are quite easy-going and really enjoy % WORSE the experience and results of products.

67 % WORSE

32 3

65

online at www.probeauty.co.za

February was a bumper month, with an overwhelming majority of % BETTER spas reporting an increase in treatment business % SAME revenue as compared to February 2015. Reasons cited for the increased % WORSE business were Valentine’s Day specials, treatment price increases, bigger HOW DID footfall of clients, and TREATMENT more therapists on BUSINESS IN duty. One spa ‘went FEBRUARY 2016 back to the basics’ with COMPARE WITH simpler, budget-friendlier FEBRUARY 2015? packages, focusing on pamper treatments. Little more than half of you reported an increase in retail sales. It’s clear that the cost implications of products due to the poor rand / dollar exchange are negatively affecting business. On average, men make up 35% of your clientele. We asked if you find men easier to retail to than women and 42% of you said that you find men more difficult to retail to. Twenty-nine-percent of you find men easier to retail to, while the remaining 29% of you find men and women the same.

96 0 4

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

58%

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN FEBRUARY 2016 COMPARE WITH FEBRUARY 2015?

57

% BETTER

14

% SAME

29

% WORSE

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


ask the experts

16

Ask the experts Our beauty experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

How can I advise a client to use nutrition to help with anti-ageing?

What is strobing and how does it differ to contouring?

n an era of stress and toxicity, I believe that if we want to become healthier in a way that will slow and improve our ageing process, it is very helpful to look back in time. An era when all food was organic, simply because chemicals hadn’t yet been invented, a time when we had to chase animals before we could eat them, and a time when we took our foot off the accelerator before 10pm. These are the broad anti-ageing principles, which are encapsulated in a landmark book called The Blue Zones. Today we have the luxury of nutritional supplements, which make up for our toxic exposures, our nutrient-depleted foods and stressful lifestyles, but only in part. Antioxidants such as Vitamins A, C and E, and the minerals zinc and selenium, support our body’s protection mechanisms. More recent scientific awareness would suggest that phytonutrients found in nutrient-dense foods are better than these basic supplements. Think green tea, red and blue berries, green leafy vegetables, tomatoes, beetroot, carrots – anything that is colourful (and tasteful) is packed full of antioxidants – these are known as ‘rainbow foods’. I like to buy powdered extracts of these phytonutrients, in what I call red and green powders, from health stores and add them to my daily nutritious smoothies. Finally, when it comes to healthy ageing, breathe fully and drive through life in 5th gear, rather than constantly revving in 3rd gear – your engine of vitality will last a few years longer.

n the most basic make-up terms, strobing is contouring without emphasising the shadows. You would not darken the shaded areas at all, only highlight the lighter areas. Contouring is very much a stage and photographic make-up technique which has been used for years by make-up artists. In a situation where the actor or model would look more dramatic by having more visible bone structure (think black and white photography), the make-up artist would use contouring to enhance certain features (cheekbones for instance), as well as to hide others (like a recessive chin). Recently this look has become trendy again, as many women now prefer a more dramatic look. With strobing, we are taking one step back from the drama of a contoured face. Although we are enhancing features by making them stand out, we are no longer hiding as much by putting in shadows. According to trends from the past, this is just the next step in the cycle heading back towards natural make-up. If you would like to try strobing, keep in mind that using a foundation in a colour lighter than your own foundation will give you a more natural effect, but for a more obvious strobing look, you should use a product (liquid or powder) with a shimmer. Apply the product on the areas that you would like to enhance and then blend in. Voila – you are ‘strobed’!

I

I

Leigh Richardson has been working for Kryolan for 25 years and has experience in the make-up field, from beauty to special effects. Her speciality is camouflage make-up.

Ian Craig MSc, CSCS, INLPTA is an exercise physiologist, nutritional therapist, NLP practitioner and an endurance coach. He specialises in Functional Sports Nutrition and works for Exercise Solutions.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

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business tips

20

Making an impact Ayesha Rajah reveals why it is important to make a lasting impression on the client and how you should go about it.

I

magine this... your client has had an amazing welcome and massage at your salon or spa, but, upon completing the treatment, the therapist does not direct her to get up, and the client is left not knowing if her treatment has come to an end. Or, imagine that there is no hand soap in the bathroom, or that she is left waiting in reception to be cashed-up. In less than five minutes the client’s wonderful treatment experience is replaced with a less than gracious impression of your business. Often clients go directly from your business to meet other people, either to pick up kids or back to work, etc. You want to leave your client with such a good impression that she encourages others to come to you and, more importantly, her feeling of wellbeing is associated with your business.

Top tips In order to make a lasting impression, you need to evoke emotion. So avoid sterile social media posts of treatment rooms, instead take pictures of a group of clients, or have models (your own staff) in shots that evoke emotion. Create lasting memories for clients;

a fun way to do this is to have an Instagram poster or a selfie booth, with your branding behind the area, where your clients can take their own pictures after treatments. Personal touches are extremely important, so have your client’s choice of drink ready after her treatment. Put on her sandals after her pedicure; assist her with her belongings to her car to avoid her smudging her immaculate nails; send her motivational tips, or information about healthy eating if she is on a weight loss programme. Nobody likes leaving a treatment with a red face; therefore invest in a tinted moisturiser so your client feels fabulous when she leaves.

Be relevant Online marketing is vital in creating a good impression, but make sure you have identified your client’s needs and concerns. Don’t send out ‘Mom & Daughter’ specials to someone who has no children.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

Follow up with a personal e-mail, or make a telephone call to ascertain your client’s overall experience. Be memorable – brand umbrellas for rainy days when you need to escort your client to her car. Hand out desktop-branded calendars, or pens to clients at the beginning of the year and call it a gift. Smile – this is not always easy when the phones are ringing off the hook and your therapists are running late. Try smiling even when answering a call. Body language is key to making someone feel at ease and relaxed, so reinforce this through cashing-up procedures at front desk. PB Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

online at www.probeauty.co.za



business tips

22

The lifeblood of your business Cash flow is the most important part of any successful business and we need to know what it means and how to attain it, writes Debbie Merdjan.

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imply put, cash flow gives us all goose bumps. The very word can have any business owner shuddering and applying another layer of lipstick. However, there are a few rules – follow them and you will no longer have goose bumps. Plan. Know your business. Do not just open up and hope for the best. Know what your running costs will be; know how you are going to market and advertise your business; know what these expenses cost and do proper projections. Know what money will come in; what will go out; and how you will generate profit. Manage your plan constantly. Get to know your target market as this is what will generate your revenue Keep planning. You may have been in business for a while already, all the more reason to stay on top

of your plan. Look at your weekly and monthly sales and use them as a baseline. Estimate your cash needs and, if you are going into a busy period, always add 15% in case of unforeseen circumstances. Likewise, be aware of quiet periods and manage cash flow accordingly. Know your bank manager. He or she is often the most important person in your life. Talk to her (or him) all the time. It’s your business. You need to understand it better than anyone else.

Records Keep all your accounting records. Invest in a good accountant who you can trust with your life and who will prepare the financial statements for you. Go over everything with a fine toothcomb. Be cognisant of what your accountant does. You should ensure that you receive monthly management accounts (including a cash flow statement). Go

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


business tips

23

through them thoroughly and ask all the relevant questions to enable you to always know what is happening with your money. Cash is the lifeblood of your business. Do not forget this. You need sufficient cash flow and adequate capital to sustain you. Cash will tide you through difficult times and cash will have you prospering in boom times. Remember you will need sufficient cash flow for daily operations, but, should you want to grow or expand, you will also need cash for additional capital items (assets).

Creativity

Invest in a good accountant who you can trust with your life and who will prepare the financial statements for you.

You should always be creative but especially when it comes to cash flow. Turn your stock quickly. Leverage your vendors and your suppliers. Manage your external sources of cash proactively. Be aware of when you should pay your creditors and when you should not. Always attempt to pay SARS (South African Revenue Services) on time to prevent unnecessary penalties and interest. Try and get paid in cash. Offer incentives. Be aware of trends as they come and go, especially in the spa business. If a product is new and innovative, you need to be able to purchase it. You should, in fact, be ahead of the trend. Know the selling and buying cycles and be prepared for them. We all know the economy is rocky. Even if you are doing well, cash flow can be tricky but stay on top of it. Remember to work hard. Be fearless but sensible. Hire good staff and train them. Buy and sell well. Watch your cash flow. Do not skimp on the accounting side of things. And be financially smart. With the proper financial controls and systems, cash will flow and your business will succeed. Good luck. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


business tips

24

Beyond the connection In the era of technology, how connected are you, and what does ‘connected’ really mean to you, asks Lauren Gibson.

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oes the word ‘connected’ mean that your computer is connected to the internet? Does it mean that your mobile phone is charging and connected to a power source? Does it mean you are active on all social media sites and connected to your phone and to what is happening in other people’s lives? Or, does it mean that you are enriching and adding value to every single thing that you do, or to every person you come across on a daily basis? We live in an age of technology, yet we actually don’t connect to the people around us each day. For instance, we don’t take the time to say hello or thank you, or ask how a client’s ill mother is doing. Instead, we have passing conversations with human beings while chatting on our phones to another human being. As spa/salon owners or managers and therapists, we are in one of the last industries with the ability to connect with people the minute they walk through the door, either by a handshake, a hug or even just a warm smile. We get to spend time with that

person in our treatment rooms where we share energy, compassion and healing. But are we truly in the moment? Are we really connecting to that individual? Today we have therapists who work on their client’s skin while checking their mobile messages, or front desk co-ordinators who forget to look up and greet the person standing in front of their desk with a warm smile, or call them by their name.

Tough times With tougher economic times ahead of us, we all need to start approaching our days slightly differently. The same applies to our service offering. How you connect with your team is going to determine if your staff remain happy, fulfilled and appreciated. Schedule regular touch points with your entire team, as well as one-onone meetings to ensure they feel connected and supported by you, the owner or manager. And how your team connects with your clients is ultimately going to decide the success of your business, the new feet you attract through your

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

doors and the customer service you deliver. You cannot control what happens in the treatment room behind closed doors but you can train your team to deliver the best service. Consumers today have so many options. So take a deep breath and work even harder than before. It will be the small things that make the biggest difference, such as remembering a guest’s favourite soundtrack, offering the specific tea she likes posttreatment? A role model of mine, Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand recently said: “Our industry is poised now more than ever to make the biggest social impact on our planet.” What role will you play in that impact? PB Lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZuluNatal (KZN). She recently joined the Cape Town team as the regional manager.

online at www.probeauty.co.za



On: 28 & 29 August 2016 at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

2016

The International Spa Convention is Africa’s leading information exchange opportunity for all those working in the spa and salon industry. Don’t miss out, the future of your business could depend on it! Who should attend: • Spa/salon owners and directors • Spa/salon managers, senior therapists and other key staff, eg. operations and accounts • Health and fitness operators • Hoteliers and resort planners • Investors • Architects and consultants • Local and national government agencies

Delegates will be able to: • Take home practical ideas to immediately improve their spa/salon operation • Work towards a shared vision benefiting the industry and its clients • Shape ideas and innovations that will enable the industry and your business to prosper

Let’s talk about it... Speakers will present their views on those issues which go to the heart of the spa/salon industry

* keynote speaker: andrew Gibson • cuStoMer Service: From first contact to feedback: Learning what your spa clients really want.

• revenue ManaGeMent:

• Great Staff: Advice on how to put together and retain a terrific team.

Operational and strategic principles for financial success

• MarketinG MaGic: SaleS traininG WorkShop: Ensuring real results

Learn about the essentials of an effective advert, the power of copywriting, and the impact of social media and mobile marketing.

• eco-SuStainability: Ethical, sustainable and eco-friendly practices for your spa

more info: www.probeauty.co.za

BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASS Check the website for online bookings and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za


salon focus

27

Flagship Environ salon opens When PHD Skin Retreat in Greenside, Johannesburg, opened late last year, it had the distinction of being the newest Environ flagship salon in South Africa, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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wned by Robi and Troes Canha, PHD Skin Retreat is situated adjacent to the couple’s well-established PHD Hairdressing salon, at 13 Gleneagles Road in Greenside. Commenting on the motivation behind PHD Skin Retreat, Robi Canha says: “PHD has been creating beautiful hair for 18 years and we have always offered minor extra services like hand and foot rubs, or even relaxing scalp massages. So we felt that expanding fully into skincare would be the next logical step as we would not only be able to offer our guests fabulous hair, but also help them achieve beautiful skin and promote healthy living in general.” Canha notes that there were ‘numerous valuable reasons’ why they decided to partner with South African skincare brand, Environ. He continues: “The Environ product was created by Dr Fernandes, who is one of the world’s top surgeons and has been responsible for many breakthroughs in the surgical field. His passion for wanting to really help people with serious conditions like melanomas inspired us.” PHD Skin Retreat was the first salon

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Rampant retail

in South Africa to display the new Environ branding and imaging.

Complementary design Being an extension of PHD Hairdressing, the owners wanted to keep a continuous flow between the two salons in terms of look and feel. “Therefore we carried through some of the textures and finishes used in the hair salon to PHD Skin Retreat, except with a more clinical finish,” continues Canha. “So, where we used darker colours in the hair salon, which lends itself towards a modern urban feel, the skincare division is very light, with white finishes suggesting a more clinical finish. The atmosphere at PHD Skin Retreat is also set by very relaxing background music.”

In addition to a successful launch, PHD Skin Retreat has experienced excellent sales in homecare products. “We have achieved much higher than expected retail sales figures and this is through a simple philosophy – to have our guests experience the product first-hand and actually see the results on their own skin. First-time guests are offered a complementary facial that includes a full skin diagnosis, as well as a recommendation,” explains Canha.

Numbers The skincare salon is approximately 120sqm. It consists of a reception area with an extensive retail emporium, two fully equipped treatment rooms, a laser room which doubles up as a treatment room and a slimming room that also doubles up as a treatment room. There is also a manicure/pedicure room fitted out with two luxurious pedicure stations and two nail bar stations. PB

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


DMK enzyme treatments work with the skin where cosmetic facial treatments only act on the surface.

BEFORE TREATMENT What are Enzymes? Enzymes are living substances in the body that regulate all chemical activity in the body as well as the skin. Enzymes are directly involved in the body’s metabolism, which is the process by which food is broken down and converted into energy and other elements needed for cell growth.

What is DMK Enzyme Therapy? Enzyme therapy is a series of masques containing certain enzymes that are topically applied to the skin. Since most skin conditions, including ageing, are the result of a loss of function or imbalance in the skin, these masques are designed to restore the chemical balance, normalise natural processes and strengthen the underlying structure of the skin.

DURING TREATMENT

The Benefits and Uses of DMK Enzyme Therapy Enzyme Therapy delivers the best, long-term results out of all the skin revision treatments because the effects are both natural and more permanent. By natural we are not merely referring to the ingredients used, but also to the way the enzyme treatment interacts with the skin cells and emulates the natural processes of the skin. Enzyme Therapy effectively re-educates the skin to perform just as it did when it was young. It does this by restoring optimal cellular functions, causing the appearance of your skin to improve significantly with each treatment.

It works by strengthening the facial muscles, keeping skin tissue free of toxins and impurities, and stimulating healthy blood flow and nutrients to the skin, enabling skin cells to stay alive for longer.

Enzyme Therapy treats more than just the surface of the skin, including: • • • • •

Ageing and sun-damaged skin as well as the prevention of ageing All types of acne, congested skin, oily, dry or combination skin Hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone Rosacea, Psoriasis, Spider Veins Cellulite, Stretch Marks

Enzyme Therapy keeps the skin firm, youthful and healthy, both physically and at a deep cellular level. DMKSouthAfrica

www.dmkskincare.co.za / +27 (0) 11 262 6120 Contact us today for your customised DMK opening order!

DMK, REBUILDING SKIN, REBUILDING LIVES


spa focus

29

Under fire

With news of at least two devastating fires in luxury spas in South Africa last year, Marisa Dimitriadis puts the focus on fire prevention in the spa.

N

o one really pays much attention to health and safety until the day comes when there is a fire, or an accident, on your premises that could have been prevented. By law, every workplace needs to put health and safety measures in place. In order to accomplish this, companies need to train skilled employees to implement and manage these measures. Negligence of health and safety laws can lead to serious impact on the workplace itself, and the financial implications for companies can be very costly. The Occupational Health and Safety Act aims to provide for the health and safety of persons at work, and for the health and safety of persons in connection with the activities of persons at work and to establish an advisory council for occupational health and safety. Each and every employer and

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employee is responsible for ensuring that they become familiar with this Act and understand every aspect of it. Ensure that you have a printed copy of the Act in your staff room visible for all staff members to see. I advise that you bring up one or two points that relate to the Act at your weekly staff meetings to entrench familiarity with it. Fires are by far a spa-owner’s worst nightmare, because they destroy everything so quickly. Step one in a fire prevention strategy should be to consult with a fire consultant.

Fire extinguishers Are you fully aware of what type of fire extinguishers you have? Are they water and foam, or dry powder, or carbon dioxide? And do you know which extinguisher to use for what type of fire? Are the extinguishers in working condition and do you have trained staff who know how to use them?

When last were your extinguishers serviced, how many do you have in the spa, and where are they stored?

Maintenance Fire extinguishers must be inspected annually and serviced or replaced if necessary. Make reference to the SANS (South African National Standards) with regards to quantity and positioning of your equipment, as it differs from business to business depending on size, location, proximity of fire escapes etc. Ensure you are fully within regulations in terms of fire escapes and make sure that fire escape routes are kept clear at all times. Have a fire exit route sign in place and hold fire drills for staff. It is your duty and responsibility to make sure your staff and clients are safe in your premises, so be prepared. Do you have an adequate number of fire detectors throughout your space and are they in perfect working R

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


spa focus

30 Classification of fires and extinguishers condition? You may also want to consider adding a firewall to protect your business, as well as neighbouring businesses, from unnecessary damage and expenses.

Candles Candles are by far the most common cause of fires in a spa. They also need to cool before they are picked up, to avoid dropping them. Keep all flammable items away from any flames. The safest solution is to invest in good quality rechargeable flameless candles.

Tumble dryers Never run your tumble drier at its highest temperature setting; rather run it at the low or medium heat setting. Never leave your dryer on unattended or running overnight. Ensure there is enough ventilation in the area and watch out for chemical combustion from hot towels.

Plug points, cords and electrical sockets Never overload your plug points and watch out for frayed wires from plugs, as well as loose lying wires that guests may trip over. Electric blankets, wax pots, hair dryers and any other electrical equipment must be unplugged every single night. Regular monthly checks of all plug points and connections are imperative to the health and safety of your business. I recommend including a master switch in your business to avoid human error such as, for example, leaving a wax pot switched on.

Flammable liquids Even vapours from acetone and varnish remover can catch fire if they are close to an open flame. Many spas use their kitchen space as storage space so make sure that flammable liquids and chemicals are not kept near any microwave, kettle or stove.

Tips If you have a kitchen and some grease or oil catches alight, or massage oil is left to heat for too long, simply cover

Class A fires are fires in ordinary combustibles, such as wood, paper, cloth, trash, and plastics.

Class B fires are fires in flammable liquids such as gasoline, petroleum oil and paint. This also includes flammable gases, such as propane and butane. Class B fires do not include fires involving cooking oils and grease.

Class C fires are fires involving energised electrical equipment, such as motors, transformers, and appliances. Remove the power and the Class C fire becomes one of the other classes of fire.

Water and foam

Dry chemical

Carbon Dioxide

Dry chemical

Carbon Dioxide

Dry chemical

Class K fires are fires in cooking oils and greases, such as animal fats and vegetable fats. Wet chemical

the pan or bowl to reduce the amount of oxygen reaching the flames. Bicarbonate of soda or salt can also be poured onto the fire to put it out, depending how big it is. Water or flour should NEVER be used on a grease fire as it can encourage the fire to spread. Paper, cloth, trash and plastic fires can be put out by pouring a lot of water over and saturating the material. Bicarb is also useful when putting out electrical fires. Lastly, don’t get caught without

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

insurance against fire, and ensure you have adequate insurance covering loss of revenue and turnover when recovering from a fire. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

online at www.probeauty.co.za



spa focus

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Into the wild Winner of three international awards in 2015, the Amani Spa at Mara Bushtops in Kenya continues to attract clients from all four corners of the globe, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

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ara Bushtops, situated in the breath-taking Maasai Mara Natural Reserve in Kenya, is one of three safari destination camps owned by Andrew and Claudia Stuart, the other two being located within the Serengeti in Tanzania.

In 2013 Claudia Stuart met with Amani Spas Group CEO Ronleigh Gordon at an indaba and, a year later, the Amani Spa at Mara Bushtops opened. Says Francisco Garcia, chief operating officer of Amani Spas: “Our spa at Mara Bushtops spans over 2.5 hectares of land, including the pool,

Spa at a glance Date opened: July 2014 Owners: Andrew and Claudia Stuart Hydro facilities: Rasul chamber, Jacuzzi, sauna, cold plunge pool, heated infinity pool Number of tented treatment rooms: 3 Number of therapists: 4

treatment tents, reception and a relaxation area. “Architect Andrin Schweizer designed the tented treatment rooms at Mara Bushtops, as well as the lounge, to create an Amani African Spa Village. Our wooden relaxation deck provides uninterrupted views of the African Bush and the camp’s salt lick, which attracts hordes of animals each day.” There are three luxury, tented double treatment rooms as well as a host of hydro facilities. These include a Rasul chamber (featuring multi-sensory Arabian mud cleansing treatments), Jacuzzi, steam room, cold plunge pool and heated infinity pool (with beds inside the pool complete with water jets). A fitness facility, complete with high-tech cardiovascular and weight training equipment, complements the spa. Garcia notes that the Amani Spa at Mara Bushtops won three awards last year – Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence; World Luxury Spa Award; and World Spa Award for Kenya’s Best Safari Spa.

Local touch All four full-time therapists at the spa are from Nairobi and fully qualified.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


spa focus

33

In addition, each of the therapists has undergone the Amani Spa training course. The spa’s treatment menu includes deluxe facials, rejuvenating massages, luxurious body treatments, ‘sensational journeys’, and hand and foot rituals. According to Garcia, the spa’s signature treatment is the Jewel of Africa Massage. “During this treatment the guest experiences the unique, restorative and energising

quality of crystals, warm oils and flowing movements, which work together to rapidly reduce muscle tension in the body. This signature treatment balances your energies, releases emotional stress and leaves you with a feeling of complete relaxation and wellbeing.” The spa uses and retails the organic brand Terres d’Afrique.

Guest appeal Says Garcia: “Mara Bushtops prides itself on taking ‘Wild Luxury’ to

new heights. It adds luxurious pampering, peace and tranquillity to the excitement of game-watching, culinary excellence and the comforts of the spa and camp. “In terms of regular guests, we attract many Nairobi residents who visit Mara Bushtops because of the spa. Our international visitors hail from all over the world – from North America, Europe, Australia and India, to name a few.” PB


male grooming

34

Be the man!

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opular ways of describing males who dare to groom are still dominated by the overused term ‘metrosexual’, but this has given way to more recent, nuanced variants, such as ‘ubersexual’, ‘lumbersexual’ and ‘spornosexual’. But, however you term it, the simple fact remains that men’s attitudes towards grooming and beauty have changed over the past 10 years, with anti-ageing a particular area of concern. More and more men are infiltrating what was previously regarded as a female-only environment, namely the beauty salon and/or spa. Estimated to be worth $37.6bn, the

male grooming market remains the major untapped opportunity in beauty and personal care, according to Euromonitor International. The market research company reports an overall sector growth at 6.2% for October 2014 to October last year, with sales of men’s grooming products increasing at the greatest rate in Latin America, the Middle East and Africa.

.- Men only -. Carol Boag, owner of Glasshouse Rejuvenation for Men, opened her salon in Cape Town over a decade ago. “I launched Glasshouse because there was nothing like this for guys at the time and a male-only salon was a

Pic courtesy: Glasshouse Rejuvenation

It’s been well over a decade since man first tentatively ventured where no man ever dared to go before – the beauty salon. Joanna Sterkowicz looks at the current trends in male grooming in South Africa.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


male grooming

35

Pic courtesy: Glasshouse Rejuvenation

.- Hybrid.-

unique concept. This was in the era when men’s grooming was starting to get onto the map. I wanted to create a place where guys could feel comfortable.” Situated in The Foundry, Greenpoint, Glasshouse has an industrial, masculine feel, with brick walls and exposed pipes. Boag continues: “I softened the interior with leather and brown, silver and black tones to create a sexy, masculine feel. “In our signature area – where pedicures and manicures are performed – we have two big, comfortable, leatherette chairs and a flat screen TV so that clients can watch sports. In addition they are offered drinks. Of course, some clients get so comfortable in this area they don’t want to leave!” Boag believes that the South African man has come out of his shell in terms of male grooming. “This is particularly true of Cape Town, where men are more aware of their appearance and more in tune with maintaining it, with antiageing treatments very popular. Men’s grooming is now so ‘out there’.” The Glasshouse treatment menu has evolved over the years – in the early days massage treatments were the most popular. “Now men are willing to try everything, even the more medical treatments,” note Boag. “We do a lot of facials and beard trimming and sculpting. Hair removal is very popular, including the infamous ‘back, crack and sack’ intimate wax. We also offer body clippering, which ‘defuzzes’ clients with orang-utan-like legs and arms who are too squeamish for waxing. There is a big demand for ear and nose waxes, as well as tinting of brows and lashes.” R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge opened on 7th Avenue in Parktown on 1 December 2015. Says Jared Hines, who has over a decade of experience in the spa industry: “I saw a gap in the market and believe this to be the first salon of its type in Johannesburg, being a combination of spa and barber shop. My goal was to provide a spa experience in terms of the treatments that a high quality spa would offer. “The Hines & Harley venture was actually motivated by my personal need to find a place where I myself would want to visit. We’re not targeting a particular age group; in fact we’ve just done an article on the benefits of taking children for treatments. “We purposely came up with a small menu as men don’t like to read too much – they want things to be simple – a short description of the treatment and a price – a straightforward menu in other words. For this reason we only work with and retail two ranges – a facial and body range (TheraVine) and a beard range, Bonafide Beards.” Hines wanted to create a very homely, old school feel with wooden floors. The salon has radios that look like old record players and staff uniforms are reminiscent of the 1940s and 1950s. “We want to take clients away from the buzz of Johannesburg and give them a relaxing environment to get away from it all,” comments Hines. “Our policy of offering a complimentary drink of whiskey or brandy to clients is very popular, as is our cold-drip coffee, which we believe is a new trend.” The most popular treatments at Hines & Harley thus far have been beard trimming and shaving. “Beards are very big at the moment,” states Hines. “We’ve also noticed that ageing skin is a definite concern among our clients, as these are Johannesburg men who are genuinely concerned with their appearance.”

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


male grooming

36 The Amani Spas group introduced ‘Amani Man’ to its treatment menu over five years ago. According to Francisco Garcia, chief operating officer of Amani Spas, there is still a certain clumsiness when it comes to men and spa-going. Says Garcia: “For this reason it is much better for men to have their own section in the spa treatment menu as it shows that there is appreciation for the male clientele. Plus, it gives them the feeling that their treatments have been specially devised for them. Men feel a bit lost when treatment menus are big and tedious, so that they lose interest or get completely confused about what to choose. “It used to be that male spa-goers would only ever go to spas as part of a couples’ package. Added to which, South African men used to have the perception that going to a spa was ‘girlie’ and not very macho-like. “Thankfully, things started changing about eight years ago thanks to the boom of the wellness tourism sector, and spa-going is now regarded as fulfilling a need and as a pleasure that everyone can enjoy every now and then.” Garcia notes that Amani Spas have seen an increase in male clients that visit spas by themselves. “Slowly but surely they are embracing all the changes in the beauty industry as well. Beauty treatments such as manicures and pedicures are really popular, with some male clients even

Pic source: www.amanispas.co.za

.- Man-centric -.

requesting a light flesh pink lacquer on their nails. “There is a huge growth with regards to all male grooming-related treatments, not only in terms of spabut hair salon-related treatments as well. For instance, I myself am extremely concerned about antiageing and prevention more than correction. I use a cleanser, an exfoliator, an aftershave fluid, a moisturiser and an eye cream. When I go to my hairdresser, I do the ‘Full Monty’, namely eyebrow shaping via threading, a nose wax and an ear wax.” He points out that currently there are lots of male grooming salons and ‘man caves’ opening up all over South Africa.

-.Growing chain -. South African beauty salon chain, Sorbet, currently has three Sorbet Man salons (Sandton City, Village View in Bedfordview and Cape Quarter in Green Point Cape Town), with at least four more stores in the pipeline for this year. “Since we opened our first Sorbet

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

Man in September 2013, more services have been added to the treatment menu due to client demand, as well as our desire to improve the experience for the grooming guy,” says Sorbet Man Educator, Lelanie de Jager. She notes that the beard trend is still big in South Africa. “We’ve added an in-store, hot oil Proraso beard treatment for clients who are serious about their beards and have noticed that beard designs remain trendy. We do a lot of maintenance on the preciseness of the beard line and on maintaining the 5 o’clock shadow.” She believes that the ‘comb over Signature haircut’ will be here for quite a while, similarly the ‘dislocated comb over’, with the skin fade on the sides and length on top still popular. The logo patterns of football clubs can be clippered into hair. Lash and brow tinting among men is growing daily at Sorbet Man stores, as is threading, particularly in the case of the ‘unibrow’. “Our barbers are doing a lot of nose and ear waxing, not to mention how busy our therapists are with the rest of the body waxing,” concludes De Jager. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za



product focus – male grooming

38

It’s raining men! Pic courtesy: Phytomer

Feedback from South African salons and spas indicates that men are easier to retail to than women, which proves that male-centric products should be an essential part of the retail drive.

Macho skin Elements of man The label.men range incorporates an exclusive eleMENts complex of unique hair-building botanicals to help soothe scalps, restore hair vitality and support healthy hair growth. It is formulated with the innovative Micronization technology, ensuring higher ingredient concentration for maximum penetration.

Elemis Men has been created in response to the fact that men’s skin behaves differently to that of women. The range comprises shaving gels that protect and soothe, S.O.S creams and moisturisers that target dryness and blemishes, and face scrubs. Included in the range is the new AntiFatigue duo – Eye Gel and Day Cream. 021 442 7700

021 448 8847

What a workout!

Behind the mask

Mio Skincare is a firm favourite for men who lead a fit active lifestyle. The Mio Workout Wonder Invigorating Muscle Motivating Gel is ideal for gym, running, cycling, golfing and any other form of fitness as a preand post-workout to ease tense muscles. It contains essential magnesium and Arnica oils to help decrease inflammation.

Phytomer Rasage Perfect Shaving Mask is a 2-in-1 treatment: a shaving product and an oxygenating, moisturising treatment mask. It provides the user with a perfectly smooth shave every day and reduces irritations whilst softening the hair. Once or twice a week, it can also be used as a moisturising and detoxifying mask.

011 033 0500

011 486 4904

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


product focus – male grooming

39 Pearls of wisdom

Close shave

For male clients Black Pearl recommends Age Control Light Day Cream (Oil Free) SPF25, a unique combination of Tahitian Black Pearl, seaweed and unique minerals that helps to balance the skin’s moisture level. There is also the Pearl Peeling Mask, for deep cleansing and to reveal a new layer of younger skin by exfoliating dead skin cells.

Dermalogica’s men’s range, Shave, includes Daily Clean Scrub, Close Shave Oil and Daily Defence SPF 15. Daily Clean Scrub has a dualaction exfoliating cleanser to prep skin for a closer, cleaner shave, while Close Shave Oil creates an instant comfort barrier between skin and razor. Daily Defence SPF 15 is a multitasking daytime lotion.

076 281 5737

011 268 0018

Customer Enquiries sales@vitasmart.co.za


spa & salon software

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Mobile transacting There has been a rise in the area of third-party apps that specifically focus on mobile transactions, ie payment via mobile phone, writes Chris Parker of ESP.

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bout two years ago I wrote an article called, To App or not to App, and I would like to revisit this question and expand upon the topic. Paying your bill by mobile phone is definitely on the rise. However, does this mean that as a salon you need to offer this service to your own clients? The answer (as always) is a business decision, based on whether it solves a problem for you and does so at a cost that makes sense. Now, for many consumers the idea of storing their credit card details

on their phone is something with which they are not too comfortable. However, as time goes on, and barring any horror reports of fraud taking place, clients should become more and more confident that linking their credit card to their phone is reasonably safe. Let’s get back to the core question of what problems this solves and which opportunities it creates. The most obvious benefit is if you currently do not have a credit card terminal to accept credit card payments in your salon. The question is whether it will be more cost-effective to get a terminal from

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

the bank or to go the mobile route. This will depend on the bank and the mobile supplier and how good a negotiator you are.

Loyalty Another ‘currency’ that clients are able to use for paying in store these days is with loyalty points. And, in much the same way as their credit cards can be linked to a mobile app, they can also use their mobile apps to redeem loyalty points. I think a far greater opportunity exists in mobile loyalty transacting than the above-mentioned credit cards. However, the capabilities of the

online at www.probeauty.co.za


spa & salon software

41 Paying your bill by mobile phone is definitely on the rise. However, does this mean that as a salon you need to offer this service to your own clients?

loyalty scheme itself will be up to the respective app provider, and so the decision for the salon owner will be based on considering the features available and the costs involved. Considerations would include whether or not you are able to provide anything unique to your clients that the salon-owner down the road cannot also provide using the same service; whether or not their facility allows you to crosspollinate with other partnering businesses that are not competitors to yourself; and so on.

Gift cards Mobile gift card solutions are another opportunity that makes more sense to me than credit card payments. In simple terms, a consumer would be able to buy a gift card from some sort of online mall and then redeem it via mobile phone in the salon, in much the same way as they would do a mobile credit card payment or mobile loyalty redemption. Gift cards are a great way to drive business to your salon. The question of feasibility will be where the gift cards are available to be purchased, ie on whose website/mobile app can they be purchased, and how many potential clients are visiting this web site/app? If there is good traffic to these locations then it could be a very good opportunity to drive business to your salon via gift card.

Coupons Digital discount coupons are another option that makes great sense. Companies are now offering solutions for discount campaigns that enable consumers to go into a participating store and redeem a discount coupon via their mobile phone in much the same way as the above-mentioned options. In addition, digital discount coupons offer great control for promotional campaigns as they can be set to run for a limited time only and the redemption results can be tracked to let you know exactly how successful the campaign was. PB

Chris Parker joined ESP in 1997 and has worked in the areas of software support, training, sales, marketing, finance, business intelligence, consulting, product development and general management. He has worked with many salons and spas to ensure that ESP’s software is as comprehensive and up to date as possible.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


spa & salon software

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The power of SMS Setting up and maintaining a database of client’s details should be the heartbeat of your business.

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n up-to-date and effective database will keep your business booming, according to Ilze Hawkins of

SMSolutions. “You should be gathering all possible information about your clients – their contact details, birth dates, their likes and dislikes, problem areas, hobbies and the services they use or want to use. This information will assist you to market directly to each client’s specific needs. For example, if your client mentions an engagement, you can offer her tanning and slimming treatments,” says Hawkins.

She notes that there are solutions to create a special grouping option enabling spas and salons to send SMS messages to specific target groups. “You can also diarise an SMS reminder for a follow-up appointment, or a pamper before a special date,” continues Hawkins. “The system will automatically deliver a birthday wish to your client. “Word of mouth is a powerful marketing tool, so you can ask your clients to forward your SMS special to their friends and family, or simply to give you a referral after each appointment.”

She suggests that salons and spas send out SMSs to confirm appointments and to send an after-service courtesy SMS, not only to thank the customer, but also to request feedback on their treatment. PB


promotional feature

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A ‘Guru-like’ system In today’s competitive marketplace, having an efficient and easy-to-use salon management system can give your business the edge, writes Gary Halberstadt of Spa Guru CC.

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part from the basics, such as scheduling, point of sale and stock control, online bookings are becoming an essential feature for spas and salons. Customers are becoming more comfortable with technology, and studies show that over 90% of clients prefer to book online. Having an online booking system allows your business to be open for business 24 hours a day, and empowers your clients to manage their own appointments. One concern many spas and salon owners have with online bookings is that they lose the personal touch with their clients. Communicating with your clients is essential, but that doesn’t mean online bookings are not an option. A simple process to follow would be to ensure that every online booking receives a personal phone call from the receptionist to re-establish this personal connection with the customer. SpaGuru CC, a software development company based in South Africa, has offered real-time online booking for over five years now, and spas and salons that have opted to use it have reported great results. ChiDesk, the cloud-based management system, makes it even easier to get up and running with online bookings. You can make use of the built-in members’ area, where clients can book appointments, order products and even purchase vouchers. Alternatively, you can embed a booking widget directly into your own website. Whether you are a large hotel spa, or a small homebased business, offering online bookings is a beneficial and unique way to attract new clients. We encourage spas and salons to get in contact with us to find out how we can help your business take the step towards online bookings. PB

Appointment Scheduling

Employee Scheduling

Online Booking

Point of Sale

Marketing and CRM

Reporting & Management

+27 840 1860 | www.chidesk.co.za

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An Official Product by SpaGuru™ Software Solutions | www.spaguru.co.za

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Gary Halberstadt is development manager of SpaGuru CC, a company that produces software solutions for the salon, spa, wellness and fitness industries. E-mail garyh@spaguru.co.za

An online management solution for your business


SA skincare brands

44

Home is where the heart is The South African beauty industry is in a fortunate position in that there are a number of high-quality local skincare brands for spas and salons to choose from.

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urrently found in 2500 salons in South Africa, Environ Skin Care is one of the country’s most respected and recognised skincare brands. Commenting on how Environ stands out from other skincare brands, Wayne La Grange, MD of Environ Distribution South Africa (EDSA), says: “The Environ brand has, for over 25 years, been a strong and consistent pillar within the world skincare market. Devised by Dr Des Fernandes, the number six aesthetic surgeon worldwide, and who still practises after 50 years of groundbreaking work in the field of medicine and skincare, it has always been the professional’s choice.” La Grange notes that Environ’s raw materials and packaging are fully imported from Germany, Switzerland and the USA, with endorsements from the Swiss Vitamin Institute. He continues: “Hundreds of case studies, clinical trials – some of them the biggest in cosmetic history – as well as before & after photographs, and myriad global awards support the Environ promise: to create beautiful skin for a lifetime. “Dr Fernandes continues to create products which support his own work in aesthetic surgery and many are ready to be released to the world this year. Very simply, the building blocks of skin are Vitamin A, and Environ will

continue to build on this knowledge, utilising state of the art technology and the most advanced raw materials to perfect skin.” As Environ’s partnerships with trained skincare professionals are vital to the success of the brand, this year Environ launched a new website which features a section specifically for them (http://www.environskincare. com/za/skin-care-professionals/) “We at EDSA have spent much time learning from our therapists and salon-owners over the past two years,” states La Grange. “Our focus has been on what makes our therapists’ consumers happy and this has been the key driver behind our marketing plan. “Environ has grown in excess of 30% in a depressed economy. We have focused our resources in the area of expert and engaging training seminars, which has led to higher levels of expertise in the industry and driving growth.”

global marketing campaign, with a new brand positioning and a new visual identity. Says Kirstin Kruger, Environ’s Global Brand Team Marketing Manager: “Environ’s marketing of its brand was not centralised in the past, resulting in inconsistencies across the brand mix. To create a truly global brand, Environ CEO, Valerie Carstens took the decision to put a Global Brand Team in place in Q4 2014. Our job was to change the way people see Environ in a consistent and compelling way. “The Global Brand Vision is to create a world in which healthy skin is the norm. Our approach has been to engage with consumers by sharing the brand’s point of view and beliefs on skin and life – that we want to keep making skin beautiful for generations to come.” Environ’s Reborn Beautiful campaign is a multi-million rand campaign and the brand’s largest to date.

Global perspective

Natural healing

With 140 products in its inventory, Environ is available in over 70 countries worldwide. For the first time in its history, Environ has launched a

CSpa Aroma Wellness is based on aromatherapy’s purist principles and is free of parabens and mineral oils. The brand consists of an

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


SA skincare brands

45

unprecedented range of well-planned homecare products for all skin types and body wellness requirements, supported by precise professional spa and salon treatments that treat most skin conditions. The latest Cspa product is Coconut and Vanilla Body Milk, a sensuous, aromatic emulsion to lather onto the body for a post-shower hydrating experience.

From the doctor Products that comprise the Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals brand work by kickstarting the skin’s natural regenerative and repair processes to achieve more youthful, voluminous skin. “We do not believe in traumatising the skin, but rather in nurturing it to improve by using dermo-intelligent technology,” says Dr Robert Gobac. “The smart use of actives from natural sources, combined with the most cutting-edge technology and delivery systems, ensures dramatic improvements. “Our simple, easy-to-use products for men and women can be used on

online at www.probeauty.co.za

all skin types, skin colours and for all skin concerns. We have developed a solution for each skin problem, addressing a number of concerns.” New additions to the range include the Youth Range (for ages 10 to 18 years); TX treatment range targeting problematic skins; and Biorestore Needle-Free – a potent transdermal serum. Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals exports to Spain, Poland, Germany and the UK.

Comprehensive range Vitaderm consists of two distinct lines – the Phyto Active Range, which addresses skin types, and the Advanced Active Range, for skin conditions like dehydration, premature ageing, acne and uneven pigmentation. Says Vitaderm’s Belinda Wesson: “There are no petrochemical ingredients, such as mineral oil, in our formulations. We also avoid artificial fragrances, incorporating only natural fragrant plant extracts. “Our active ingredients, such

as hyaluronic acid, peptides, glycosaminoglycan and ascorbic acid glucoside, are imported from Switzerland, France, USA and Japan. Ingredients are incorporated at maximum concentration to ensure excellent therapeutic benefits.” Vitaderm has just launched a Collagen Induction Pen. Wesson explains: “This micro-pen treatment has numerous advantages over collagen induction roller treatments, the most important being increased client comfort and no downtime. Our Radian-C Serum with optimal levels of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside is the perfect complement to this treatment.” The company supplies products to Namibia and Angola, as well as to upmarket destination spas in Mozambique and Nigeria. Products are also supplied to Holland and Canada.

Para-medical range In 1995 Belinda Wesson was approached by a plastic surgeon to develop a post-laser ointment. Before long, this balm was utilised by oncology patients for post-radiation burns. R

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SA skincare brands

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“This led to a double-blind, randomised study being conducted at a government hospital as part of a thesis by a final year oncology student,” continues Wesson. “The study proved the effectiveness of the Resurfacing Balm formulation on compromised skin conditions. Since 1997, oncology has been the biggest market for the Intensive Scar Repair and Resurfacing Balm. “Due to the incredible demand for these two products, the decision was made to open up the range, both to laser clinics and skincare clinics to make the products more accessible. Furthermore, the decision was made to launch a range of skincare products, Wesson Therapeutics, for retail and professional use during 2016, to complement the two existing formulations. The range is suited to all compromised conditions, including eczema, psoriasis or allergy-prone skin. “All functional ingredients are imported from Europe and include ceramide 2, ascorbic acid glucoside and hyaluronic acid (both high and low molecular weight). The entire range contains an extract – Gatuline – which is imported from Grasse in France.”

hyperpigmentation, acne, scarring and stretch marks, and embrace new and proven technology as it develops. DermaFix is driven by a vision to provide consumers and skincare professionals with products that make a real difference and generate effective results.” DermaFix ‘s product lines for face and body are the result of more than 30 years of continuing extensive research, development and timeproven product use. In 2014, DermaFix expanded its skincare range to include the MD

Prescriptives product range, offering a scientific approach to skincare, utilising research to unlock the power of cosmeceuticals for the demands of an ageing, hyperpigmented and acne prone population. The physician strength formulations, based on sound science and technology, can be used alongside the DermaFix Product Range for measurable results. “DermaFix will continue to develop and deliver brand value through an effective and expanding product line, which includes new technologies such as Vitamin A Propionate, stem cells, telomere protection, liposome encapsulated peptides, advanced natural phytonutrients, mandelic acid and botanicals,” concludes Hunt.

Fixed up Located in Johannesburg, DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care has sourced laboratories across the world to supply effective solutions and updated formulations for superior skincare. Says DermaFix MD, Ursula Hunt: “We provide advanced products specialising in anti-ageing,

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


SA skincare brands

47 Back to the roots Johannesburg-based, South African company Brand Root Distribution currently has three brands in its inventory, namely, BareBody Skin Care & Nutraceuticals (a brand that focuses on skincare concerns and corrections), No Sun (sunless tanning, including sun protection), and VitaSmart (advanced vitamins and supplements). “With distribution throughout South Africa and to international clients, we are very positive about our future growth as the African continent opens up, supporting South African business and entrepreneurial spirit,” says Bronson Hunt, MD of Brand Root Distribution.

Homeopathic aromatherapy Lilian Terry International (LTI) has a range of homeopathic aromatherapy massage oil complexes for body and face, as well as facial toners and gels, LT Flexycups for cupping massage treatments, and a range of natural clay body wraps. Says LTI GM Carli Argirova: “We have over 50 different products in our range, all of which are produced in South Africa. The complexes are completely natural, with no added colorants or preservatives, and none of our products have been tested on animals. “Since our complexes are a synergistic blend of homeopathic remedies, essential oils and carrier oil – formulated by a medical doctor and homeopath – they provide not only cosmetic results, but are also an effective treatment for a wide range of conditions and symptoms – from bad circulation to joint pain and more. These complexes are safe to use with medication and provide a more natural approach to wellbeing.” Co-owner of LTI, Dr Kateryna Tsvyetkova (MD, PhD, Homeopath), recently authored a training R.

RESURFACING BALM RESURFACING BALM

INTENSIVE SCAR REPAIR

INTENSIVE SCAR REPAIR

Care for Compromised Skin

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


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SA skincare brands

49

manual that offers a new way to treat cellulite, by combining the LT Cellu set complexes with LT Flexycups. She has also designed a professional use massage cup – the LT ProCup.

environment. We recently launched our Amenity and In-Room Spa range, which is the start of our brand-new design and packaging. The range is eco-friendly and bio-degradable.”

Au natural

Techno actives

Kalahari Skincare is a Phyto-effective product range developed with selected natural African plant extracts and oils in combination with pharmaceutical grade ingredients. The Kalahari brand has already gained a huge following in Africa as well as internationally and has positioned itself as an attainable, cost-effective brand. The range is found in Denmark, Finland, Sweden, Estonia, Botswana, Mozambique and Kenya. Recently Kalahari brought out its Manipedi range and the PhytoCompounding system.

RégimA, manufactured in South Africa, utilises many of South Africa’s natural ‘treasures’, including medicinal plants. “However,” says RégimA CEO Jacqui Faucitt, “many of the highly technologically advanced actives have to be imported and paid for in euros, pounds and US dollars. Despite this, RégimA has managed to maintain the prices of the range at an affordable level, while still providing extremely powerful tools for therapists to use in salons and spas. “We have several specific target markets, such as the over-35 age group of professional women, who want to have regular face and body treatments. RégimA has a range of insalon anti-ageing treatments for this demographic. “Another successful RégimA target market is females with pigmentation, a large percentage of the population. Our products safely treat this distressing condition, thus helping to curb the necessity some women feel to bleach their skins with harmful, and sometimes illegal, substances.”

Caring brand Currently exporting to Namibia, Mozambique, Mauritius, UK, Australia, Swaziland and Zimbabwe, MatsiMela Home Spa strives to constantly be creative with a brand that is distinctly African and sophisticated. Says the company’s Emmy Stoltz: “Making use of pure Marula Oil, Baobab Seed Oil as well as other active ‘African’ ingredients, we have developed a range of products that are functional and gifting-oriented. “Our range of products is constantly growing and developing, with the ethos of caring for yourself and the

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According to Faucitt, RégimA provides the specialised scar treatment of choice for leading plastic surgeons for all patients post-op or post trauma. RégimA is one of the few brands that produce a specific product for post-laser treatment. “We have won awards for all the products mentioned for all the various target markets,” comments Faucitt.

Numbers game There is a lot of talk in the dermatology sector now about what is termed psychodermatology, according to Six Sensational Skincare founder, Marisa Dimitriadis. “What dermatologists are now beginning to take as scientific fact, Six has known for some time – that the skin and the mind are connected. R

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


SA skincare brands

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Stress has a huge impact on the skin. “Six addresses two of these key areas in the journey to perfect skin, namely topical skincare that works to nourish and balance the skin, and a stress-busting facial that will not only topically treat the skin but also work to balance the body’s stress levels. “As we focus on skin health and making people feel happy, the sense of smell is very important to us. Consequently we make use of plant and flower extracts for the scent in the products.” This year Six will launch a Men’s Range, a Teen Range and professional skin peels, as well as a winter mask and a moisturiser. Dimitriadis has just launched Six in Mauritius and plans to expand into New Zealand and Australia.

“Esse has always treated the skin as an ecosystem – a rich variety of microorganisms all working together with human cells to generate healthy, radiant skin. When this balance exists, skin ages at the slowest possible rate. “Since inception, Esse has considered the skin microbiome as imperative in maintaining the acid mantle and a natural, healthy balance in skin. Last year we launched Esse Plus, our first probiotic skincare range.”

From the grape

Delicious range Spalicious is positioned as the only brand in South Africa to have products for all hand, feet and body treatments in the salon/spa. There are 34 products in the range – soaks, scrubs, butters, masks, a specialised foot peel for in salon treatment only, anti-ageing hand and body lotions, muscle relief gel, smoothies, bath and body oils, cuticle oils, cuticle creams, a full cellulite programme and natural soy massage candles. During 2016 Spalicious is set to launch a pregnancy collection, a baby & toddler range, and two limited edition collections in winter and summer.

Exported to over 20 countries, cosmeceutical brand TheraVine utilises grape technology oligomeric proanthocyanidins, which are 50 times stronger than Vitamin E and 20 times stronger than Vitamin C at anti-oxidant level. Says TheraVine founder, Lisa Smit of L.S. Enterprises: “The brand is built on three pillars – advanced technology, performance specific solutions with the highest percentages and concentration of cosmeceutical actives, and restoration.” A recent innovation saw the launch of MelanoVine, a range that addresses skin concerns related

to pigmentation, while promoting luminous, even, skin tone and effectively controlling pigmentation caused by the natural ageing process, sun damage, excessive UV exposure and hormonal imbalances.

Fruity formulas Founded by Karin Theunissen, Sknlogic is in over 300 salons in South Africa and exports to Namibia and Kenya. Sknlogic is based on powerful fruit-based formulas that regenerate, soothe, protect, nourish and restore the skin. Following the recent launch of its pigmentation range, Diminish, Sknlogic is currently developing an in-salon multi-purpose chemical peel which will be launched later this year. PB

Certified organic Founded in 2002 by organic chemist, Trevor Steyn, Esse Organic Skincare is now represented in more than 20 countries overseas.

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za




treatment review - rejuvenating facials

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Skin rejuvenation on the cards Concerned about her environmentally influenced skin, Alexandra Norvall opts for a rejuvenating facial from cosmeceutical skincare brand, DermaFix.

Mixing the DermaCorrective Enzyme Masque

Applying the DermaCorrective Enzyme Masque

DermaBright ‘Mini-Peel application

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hen I arrived at DermaFix’s offices in Deco Park, Johannesburg, educator Rozlyn Williams proceeded to analyse my skin. As a lifelong fan of outdoor activities, I have spent a lot of time in the sun and sea, so I was concerned about the effects of photo-ageing. Williams observed that there were some tonal differences in my skin due to hyperpigmentation. She noted that my skin was superficially dehydrated, a condition consistent with my outdoor lifestyle. “You also have quite a few dilated capillaries, which could be the result of harsh weather conditions. Your décolleté area shows more signs of environmental damage than your face,” she said. To commence the treatment, Williams performed a double cleanse, starting with the Gentle Cleansing Gel to remove surface impurities. This was followed by the DermaFix Brightening Cleanser, a gentle foaming cleanser that assists to brighten the complexion. To apply the Revitalising Toner, Williams performed a ‘feather-light’ friction technique. This stimulates circulation and facilitates the removal

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of redundant skin cell build-up, along with any oils or impurities, from the surface of the skin. Next came a single layer of the DermaBright ‘Mini-Peel’, followed by the application of DermaFix DermaPolish, left on for 10 minutes under a steamer. “The ‘Mini-Peel’ contains Mandelic Acid, a stabilised Alpha Hydroxy Acid that is anti-microbial and nonirritating to the skin. It encourages healthy cell-turnover for skin rejuvenation,” commented Williams. She proceeded to mix the DermaCorrective Enzyme Masque with DermaFix Corrective Activator and applied it in a thin layer, starting from the base of the décolleté and moving up towards the hairline. Williams continued: “DermaCorrective Enzyme Masque provides a lifting effect while stimulating micro-circulation, thus ‘exercising’ the skin. Your face may feel itchy and tight because the skin is in contraction.” My skin did indeed start to feel itchy, indicating improved circulation and increased oxygen. It also felt very tight. After 20 minutes the masque was removed with DermaFix Gentle Cleansing Gel, followed by DermaFix

Revitalising Toner to remove any residue. Williams then applied a serum cocktail of DermaFix ACC’s Hyaluronic acid and Copper. “Hyaluronic acid benefits skin hydration, plumping up fine lines and wrinkles, while Copper works by acting as a stem cell activator,” she said. Thereafter she performed a facial massage with DermaFix Argan Oil 100% Organic, an excellent source of essential fatty acids. To finish off, Williams applied a hydrating mist of DermaFix C-Spritz, an anti-oxidant blend providing protection against environmental assault. This was followed with DermaFix VitaPlex-C Cream, offering further anti-oxidant protection and moisturisation. Lastly, DermaFix DermaShield SPF 40 High UVA/UVB Sun Protection was applied, to fight against sun-induced skin ageing and hyperpigmentation. Post-treatment my skin felt hydrated and my colleagues commented that my complexion looked radiant.PB Contact: DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care Customer Care Line: 0861 28 23 23

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


hair news

54

Crowning

glory

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

End in sight Ghd advanced split end therapy is activated by the heat of your style to help nourish and fortify damaged ends, leaving hair feeling sleek, smooth and shiny for up to 10 washes. This product is scientifically formulated for all hair types. It is not advised to condition hair prior to treatment. 011 463 8601

Style smart The Indola Innova #Style range of products – Reviver and Light Spray Mousse – has been designed to create a variety of effortlessly cool styles with a laidback vibe on all hair lengths. Reviver is a dry shampoo style reviver, while the Light Spray Mousse is for hair that needs a little lift. 011 203 0700

Foam to the fore

Innovative range

Ladine Shape & Style Foam offers multipossibilities for dry perms, wraps, fingerdries and blow-drying. This flexible product contains Jojoba Oil and can be used on all hair types, hair extensions (braids and weaves) and children’s hair. It also provides protection against the weather.

The EIMI range from Wella Professionals is inspired by diverse cultures, eclectic styles and urban trends from across the world. Included in the range are Glam Mist, a luminous shine spray to finish your glamorous style with dazzling shine, and Grip Cream, to create and manipulate distinctive styles. 086 010 4109

011 203 0700

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


nails

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From SA to the Middle East Sonette van Rensburg was invited to direct the Nail Competition at the recent Professional Beauty GCC Trade Show in Dubai. Here she reflects on her experiences.

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y trip to Dubai this February was not my first as in 1999 I actually moved to Dubai. Initially it was only meant to be for two years, but ended up being several. Little did I know what to expect when I first got there, having already been in the industry for 11 years in South Africa. The nail industry in Dubai was not well-established back in 1999, with only a few places that offered nail services. Today, however, the nail industry is booming, in line with the rapid growth of the Dubai economy. There is an ever-growing demand for nails and there are now nail salons opening up at least every two R

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


nails

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something to inspire them kilometres apart from each other. and have something to work Some of the salons and nail towards to make them feel lounges in the Middle East are valued within their industry. I unlike any others I have ever think I achieved what I set out seen anywhere – beautifully to. fitted out, trendy and very stateThe winners of the various of-the-art. There are between 15 categories in the Nail to 40 nail techs working Competition were well in some nail salons, most rewarded by their salons, of who come from the The winners of the various categories in the Nail which gave them such a Philippines. These nail techs are some of the Competition were well rewarded by their salons, which feeling of self-worth and friendliest, most helpful, gave them such a feeling of self-worth and they are they are now assets to their salons, attracting accommodating and now assets to their salons, attracting more clients and more clients and providing humble people I have excellent services to their ever come across. Most providing excellent services to their clients. clients. As I recall, the of them have very little competition attracted a education or qualification well. I learnt so much about different lot of international participation, with in nails and have been self-taught, cultures during my time there, as contestants entering from countries or taught by others in salons where it is such a diverse community and as far afield as Japan and the US, as they have worked, so their skills are visiting the local nail lounge is more well as the winners of the Professional quite limited when they first arrive than just a treat, but has become quite Beauty South Africa 2007 Nail & Makein the Middle East. They speak very a social event and trend. One thing up Competition, who were sponsored little English and don’t know much every woman around the world has by the Services SETA. about the most important aspects of in common is that they all want to performing nail services. I believe that be beautiful and well groomed, with Dubai 2016 their skills are limited due to them not perfect tips and toes. After returning to South Africa four being as privileged as other nail techs years ago, I was honoured to be around the world in terms of training Looking back invited back to Dubai to direct this opportunities. Although I’ve being judging and year’s Professional Beauty GCC Nail With so many nail techs working directing the Professional Beauty Competition. I was really excited at in Dubai, salon owners are realising Nail & Make-up Competitions for being given the opportunity to go more and more the importance of the past 11 years now, it was a great back, wondering what it would be proper professional education in the achievement for me to launch and like and whether I would be able to industry to be able to get nail techs direct the first Middle East Nail & Makemeet up with any of the nail techs and to the standard where they need up competition in 2006. The purpose salons that I had trained in the past. to be. In such a rapidly growing and of this was to have nail techs from Furthermore, I wondered whether the competitive market it is important to all over the Middle East participate, industry had grown even more since stay up to date with the latest product to help them improve their skills I left. My head was abuzz, wondering developments and innovations. and techniques and give them the what was waiting for me on the other Living and working in the Middle opportunity to prepare and take part side. East was an amazing experience and in other international competitions. I was so pleased with the great helped me to grow so much, not I felt the nail techs really needed turnout of nail techs at this year’s only personally, but in my career as

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


nails

57

Returning to Dubai after four years was an amazing experience for me, especially to see how the nail industry has progressed and evolved since I first went over.

competition and also very impressed with the professional way in which the nail stylists represented themselves. They showed great competitive spirit and were very supportive of one another. The level of skill and expertise they exhibited was also high. With more practice coupled with the experience gained at this year’s competition, I’m sure the standard will be even higher in 2017. It would be great to see many more nail professionals competing and showing off their skills in next year’s competition, as there is no reason for the nail stylists in Dubai to stand back for anyone as they definitely have what it takes to compete in the event. Competing can be quite daunting, even for the most experienced nail stylist, but also very rewarding. There is no doubt that it assists in acquiring better skills and is probably one of the best ways in which to assess yourself and your techniques, thus setting higher standards within the industry. Most nail stylists competing for the first time don’t know what to expect and are not always as prepared as they should be. Each time you compete you will learn what to do and what not to do. It is vital to be fully prepared well in advance; this will benefit you in so many ways, not only to be more relaxed and focused on the actual

online at www.probeauty.co.za

day, but also give you the edge to compete wisely. First and foremost, set worthwhile and purposeful goals for yourself and remain focused on the key aspects of the competition and what you want to achieve. If it is only to win then you should definitely rethink your reasons for entering. Try not get disheartened if you don’t get placed, or see it as a poor reflection of your work, but rather as a challenge to improve and perfect your skills. It is a wonderful way to gain experience. Remember to compete against yourself and to take your capabilities to the limit. The best advice I can give to any competing nail tech who wants to achieve a flawless set of nail enhancements is to make sure that they pay attention to perfecting each and every criteria, as they all go towards engineering a perfect set of winning nails. Consistency throughout is absolutely key. Your goal for the first competition should be to learn the ropes so you can compete smarter the next time.

As a competitor and judge, I myself have said and heard from first time competitors, “If I only knew what to expect!” The only way you learn is by actually doing a competition. It takes perseverance, skill and determination to succeed, so strive for perfection and never give up on yourself. Returning to Dubai after four years was an amazing experience for me, especially to see how the nail industry has progressed and evolved since I first went over. PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 27 years, and is currently consulting as an Educator. She directs and judges competitions internationally for Professional Beauty and founded the Middle East Nail & Make-up Competitions in 2006. She also introduced the Orchid Beauty Awards in 2009, the first awards of its kind to be held in the UAE, to assist beauty establishments in setting standards of excellence and quality in the beauty industry. Van Rensburg was also a judge for the Nailympics in London held during the 2010 Olympia Beauty show. E-mail: Sonettevr@gmail.com

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


product news

58

In the market Our round-up of newly launched products.

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Big boost

Prime product

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Environ c-boost contains a rich dose of Vitamin C, which assists with improving uneven skin tone and in fighting the signs of ageing. It is best used when the client using it is comfortable on level 2 of the Environ Vitamin A moisturiser. It may be applied morning and evening, and, once opened, needs to be used in 10 to 12 weeks.

The Dermalogica Hydrablur Primer is a lightweight, non-greasy primer that minimises the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, mattifies against oily shine and imparts a silky, luminous finish to skin. H2ORelease Complex and Abyssinian Oil help to provide intense, sustained-release moisturisation that locks in optimum hydration levels. 011 268 0018

0800 220 402

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Energetic complex Exclusive to salons that offer the Elemis range of Biotec machine facials, the Biotec Skincare range comprises a cleanser, day cream and night cream. Elemis’ groundbreaking Bio-Energy Complex re-boots the skin’s performance for a vibrant and freshly revived complexion. It is scientifically proven to increase cell energy.

Spritz away!

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DermaFix C-Spritz revitalises the skin and offers anti-oxidant boosting benefits that prevent photo-ageing caused by UVA/UVB exposure. This Vitamin C-rich hydrating blend of active ingredients is formulated for the improvement and prevention of dehydration, while combating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 0861 28 23 23

021 442 7700

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za


product news

Penetrating power

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59

Cosmeceutical brand QMS Medicosmetics has reformulated six of its most popular products – Day Collagen; Night Collagen; Exfoliant Fluid; Day Collagen Protection; Night Collagen Repair; and Dermabrasive Gel. The collagen products now contain QMS’ Neotec A15 complex, using low molecular weight hyaluronic acid for deep penetration. 0860 01 80 22

MatsiMela Home Spa Offers you the finest Spa Products that are a feast for the senses. To receive our complete Spa Brochure, or product samples, please email: spa@matsimela.co.za

3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions Brought to you by MatsiMela

These luxurious, high quality products, result in Full and Natural Looking Extensions. For full training and support, please email: beverley@matsimela.co.za

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network

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In the spa

MatsiMela Home Spa introduces its Amenity & In Room Spa Range. All products are bio-degradable and eco-friendly, meaning products are kind to the body and the environment. They will leave your skin feeling perfectly cleansed and ultra-moisturised, and contain no artificial colorants, preservatives or stabilisers.

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Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

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medical aesthetics

60

It’s all in the threads

The new thread lift is claimed to be able to counteract both gravity and chronological ageing by lifting and suspending sagging facial tissue, writes Karen Ellithorne.

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inimally invasive cosmetic procedures have become a popular way for people of varying age groups to enhance their appearance. These types of procedures form part of a wide variety of treatments for facial rejuvenation and include Botulinum toxin injections, facial fillers and a variety of laser treatments, with the thread lift a more recent addition. The thread lift treatment can be used to successfully lift sagging skin on the forehead and brows, cheeks and midface, jawline and jowls, and the submental area and neck. Doctors are currently using two different types of threads to perform these types of treatments, namely suspension sutures and PDO (Polydioxanone) threads. “PDO threads are indicated for the non-surgical lifting of sagging tissue, for collagen induction and firming crêpey skin,” says Dr Debbie Norval, an aesthetic medicine practitioner in private practice in Johannesburg. She continues: “The threads are absorbable surgical sutures introduced through a high quality acupuncture needle just beneath the skin. PDO threads come in different makes, sizes and styles and the sutures are slowly absorbed over time but the collagen induction and lifting effects can last up to three years, depending on the suture used.”

In suspension Suspension sutures, on the other hand, are threads that possess either cogs and barbs, or transparent cones, as in the case of the Silhouette Soft brand,

which is distributed in South Africa by Genop Healthcare. Once the product is inserted into the soft tissues of the face, the smooth cones become attached and fixed into place in the soft tissue of the skin. The new collagen deposits that form around them assist with suspending the skin. Dr Gabriel Doucas, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon based at Linksfield Clinic Johannesburg and co-founder of Pure Aesthetics, has successfully introduced suspension sutures into his practice over the last year. He is able to offer a 45-minute aesthetic treatment in his rooms that results in a redefined face, restored volume and reduced wrinkles. “Suspension sutures are particularly effective for minimising jowls, nasolabial folds and marionette lines,” continues Doucas. “The sutures lift and add volume to drooping cheeks and lift the brow area. Besides the discreet and immediate lifting effect, the polylactic acid in the thread stimulates the production of collagen in the skin, providing a gradual and natural regenerating effect.” He believes the suspension sutures treatment, which can work beautifully in combination with toxins and fillers, is perfect for patients who are not quite ready for a facelift. Patients can expect the results to last up to 18 months. Dr Alastair Clark, Genop Healthcare’s accredited trainer for Silhouette Soft and well known aesthetic practitioner based at the Sandton Aesthetic Institute, adds: “The doctor can offer a tailor-made treatment for flabbiness of various

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

areas of the face and neck, which lifts, tightens and restores shapeliness to the face, with no downtime,” He maintains that suspension sutures are the next wave of aesthetic treatments. “Fillers are indicated to ‘fill’ and volumise the face. Thread lifts have the ability to rejuvenate by restoring lost collagen and delaying the ageing process. They can also be used to good effect in combination with other treatments.” “Suspension sutures lift and support collagen in a way that toxins and fillers will never be able to,” says Dr Duncan Carmichael from the Institute of Healthy Ageing in Sea Point, Cape Town. “Their real value comes in when combining them with fillers and botulinum toxin to achieve advanced lifts in the face.” Dr Alek Nikolic, who has aesthetic practices in Cape Town and London and is also an accredited trainer for Genop Helathcare, advises caution. In his experience, threads work well in some patients, but not others, so correct patient choice is vital to achieve good results.

online at www.probeauty.co.za


medical aesthetics

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Advantages and disadvantages A treatment takes between 30 and 45 minutes to preform and, due to the minimally invasive nature of the procedure, is performed under local anaesthetic in the doctor’s rooms. The results for a treatment are said to last anything between 18 to 24 months. There are many advantages to having a facial rejuvenation treatment with sutures. The obvious one is the cost saving implication of having a suture treatment over and above a traditional face lift treatment. The saving would be considerable due to the fact that there would be no theatre costs or anaesthetist’s bill required to perform the treatment. Furthermore, the recovery time post treatment is minimal. The client will be able to continue with their normal functions immediately, with very little downtime.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

It is the opinion of the writer of this article that the only slight disadvantage to threading treatments is that the doctor is required to initially overcorrect the area being treated, which can lead to puckering of excess skin at the temples and the back of the neck. This corrects itself in three to five days post treatment and the patient can combat this side effect by wearing their hair down to cover the area. Threads may well revolutionise the medical aesthetics industry and it will be fascinating to see where else on the body threads are going to be used next. “In South Africa threads are currently only indicated for use on the face, however other areas of the body are currently awaiting approval for thread use,” says Dr Clark. PB

With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


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This insurance scheme is offered to all new members of the Professional Beauty Network. Membership of the network is included in the cost along with other super benefits.

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saahsp

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Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

The importance

of CPD

SAAHSP offers suppliers the opportunity to register their training/programmes for CPD (Continuous Professional Development). Any supplier wanting to register for CPD must follow three easy steps: Step 1: Apply to be a SAAHSP corporate member (annual fee = R500) Step 2: Send your programmes in for evaluation Step 3: Have your training endorsed by SAAHSP CPD allocations for Programmes/Training: 3-6 hours

1 CPD point

1 Day (9 – 5pm)

2 CPD points

2 Days

4 – 5 CPD points

Longer

6 and more CPD points

The SAAHSP Mission is to foster the advancement of education and professionalism in the health and skincare industry. The SAAHSP Vision is to advance co-operation with all participants in the health, beauty, skincare and nail industry to ensure the maintenance of the highest standard of ethical conduct. Current CPD-approved programme providers and programmes: Clarita Smit Make-Up Lamprobe Lushious Lashes Optiphi The Lash Collection Please visit www.saahsp.co.za for more information or email info@saahsp.co.za

online at www.probeauty.co.za

The new look of SAAHSP “Your life does not get better by chance, it gets better by change.” Jim Rohn And ‘change’ is what is happening in SAAHSP since the election of the new Board in September 2015. The Board decided the time had come to change the SAAHSP logo to something modern, colourful and essentially South African. • The two red ‘pillars’ represent SAAHSP ‘protecting’ the industry • The colours of different blocks represent the African earth, sea and sky • The three inner blocks represent Skin Care, Body Care & Nail Care • The five blocks of the new SAAHSP logo also represent the following: Innovation | Commitment | Accountability | Excellence | Gratitude Follow us on Facebook and let us know how you feel about the new look. https://www.facebook.com/SAAHSP. CIDESCOSectionSouthAfrica/

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016


business tips

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Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

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