May 2013
www.probeauty.co.za
EYE Fix Targeted care
Nail Check Professional versus retail
Medical Aesthetics
FEET first Pedicure reviews
Non-surgical anti-ageing
Managing
Melanin New age solutions
COSMECEUTICALS
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CONTENTS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
41 27 May 2013
Spa/salon focus
Features
21 Spa news What’s happening in the spa industry
27 Managing melanin Featuring new age solutions
Regulars
22 Lounge in luxury Visiting Skin & Nail Lounge
9 Industry news Local and international news from the beauty front
Business
18 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys Role of cortisol 25 Treatment reviews Current offerings
12 Wisdom of experience 20 years of lessons learnt 15 Changing mind sets Shifting thinking, time and drive
36 Professional Beauty CT 2013 Report back on event happenings 41 From the root Hair removal processes 47 Embracing your pregnancy guest What this market is looking for? 51 Pedicures Treatments experienced first-hand 64 Eye fix The latest retail care
72 Product news All the latest launches
Nails
Medical Aesthetics
76 SAAHSP What’s happening at SAAHSP
59 Professional versus retail Focusing on key benefits
66 Non-surgical anti-ageing What’s on offer?
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22
O
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Eliminate dead cells! Experience the pleasure of callous-free feet with Pevonia Silky Foot Peel’s creamy yet granular exfoliation. This peel effectively exfoliates dead skin cells and eliminates dryness by uniting Salicylic Acid and Pumice powder to prevent callous build-up. Peel away roughness and step out with smoother, silky-soft feet.
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IN-SPA TREATMENT YOUTH RENEW CAVIAR HAND TREATMENT
Lavish your skin with this luxe unprecedented anti-aging therapy that treats your hands to visible rejuvenation with a powerful formulation of enriching natural actives. Your hands are visibly brightened with natural enzymes, then exfoliated with polished Jojoba beads that gently remove impurities. Repairing ingredients quickly seep into the skin to ensure you reveal youthful, velvety-smooth, and hydrated hands.
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WELCOME
Y
ou won’t believe where I am busy finishing this issue of Professional Beauty – in a hospital bed. My chest has closed up, and between the array of oxygen, nebuliser, cellphone and laptop cords hanging behind my bed and the piles of notes scattered over bed linen and chairs, I am surviving. The work will get done and the deadline will be met. No matter whether the 3G card is acting up, and I can’t access my email on phone or computer, we make a plan. But what I have really been thinking about is what plan we are making for our health and ourselves. I told my husband today that when I get home certain things need to change. Healthier food choices, more rest, exercise, time spent with family, loved ones and friends and that one neglected aspect that should be right on top of the list – muchneeded time out. And, this is where the
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world of spas and salons is heading on the global front – health, wellness and exercise programmes are becoming part and parcel of current treatment offerings; group and couple bookings are common practice these days, and embracing family time within the experience is a growing trend. The message: spas and salons need to help people to focus on themselves – to be healthy, happy, passionate, and ultimately more productive. All we need to do now is go out there and make it happen!
Publisher Mark Moloney
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May 2013
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P RO F E S S I O N A L
EYE FIX
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Targeted care
BEAUTY
NAIL Check Professional versus retail
J A N U A RY / F E B RU A RY
Medical Aesthetics
FEET first Pedicure reviews
Non-surgical anti-ageing
2013
Managing
Melanin
On the cover Sourced from: www.istockphoto.com
New age solutions
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com
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NEWS
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Global cosmeceutical market set for rapid growth With the growing fascination among people about looking young, and the global population’s increasing median age, the cosmeceuticals product market is growing at a significant rate. According to a recent report by market research company RNCOS, titled “Global Cosmeceutical Market Outlook 2016”, advancements in technology and emergence of new ingredients have further contributed to the progress in the commercialisation of cosmeceutical products (described as cosmetic products with drug-like benefits) worldwide. In 2011, the market was estimated to reach $30.5bn and is likely to increase at a rapid pace in the coming years, growing at a CAGR of around 7.7% during 2012-2016. The report reveals that the global cosmeceutical market
offers huge potential among Asian countries, such as Japan, China, and India, which are set to attract major players in future. Though the market is in its infancy in developing countries, such as India and China, there remains a large untapped population with the desire to look young and fair. Japan has already made a niche mark in the global cosmetics
market, and its position in the cosmeceutical segment is effectively improving. As per research findings, skin care and represent a major segment in the global cosmeceutical market. In addition to this, toothwhitening, lip protection, etc are also emerging as key segments with significant growth. The report covers an
in-depth analysis in all the major segments and their sub-segments, with key developments taking place at a global level. Research into new ingredients, such as stem cells, antioxidants, enzymes, peptides and botanical actives for skincare-based cosmetics, is expected to alter market dominance in the days to come.
CPD-certified online training programmes to upskill SA aesthetics market Sally Durant, renowned trainer and consultant from the UK, is to visit South Africa to present advanced clinical skin care online training courses as well as Level-four practical training courses that have been designed to raise the standards of knowledge for both the beauty therapy and medical aesthetics industries. These courses are being offered by South African representative Karen Ellithorne under training company AesthetiMed. Professional Beauty attended the introductory presentation and was impressed with the level of education being offered, in particular, the benefit of being able to complete the training modules on line. “With today’s rushed lifestyle, there is little time to attend training sessions, and this, sadly, has a major impact on enhancing skills and knowledge within our industry,” says editor-in-chief, Sally
Harvey. “These courses provide a convenient alternative without compromising on advanced course material.” The online modules have been well-planned and are interactive, each module being presented by Sally Durant herself in a simple and easyto-understand format – the opposite to having to scan through reams of copy. The only pre-requisite is that each module needs to be completed
in one sitting of 3-4 hours without interruption to ensure the best results for the learner. The aim of these courses is for the therapist, medical aesthetics practitioner and nurse to better assess the underlying causes of certain skin disorders – to understand how the skin functions normally in order to better understand how it dysfunctions. It also enables one to learn without using a sales pitch, allowing
for generic reference to product. The core Sally Durant base of all the courses offered is advanced skin science. Some of the other courses include: investigative consultation and advanced skin assessment; the causes, development and treatment of acne; the physiology of skin ageing, ageing process and regeneration treatment; photoageing and pigmentation irregularities of the skin; and understanding and treating hypersensitive skin and rosacea. The Level-four hands-on training workshops include: skin needling, chemical peeling and specialised non-surgical blemish removal (which was of particular interest among the attending delegates.) New courses are under development, with a diploma for clinical aesthetics being on the cards for 2014.
Professional Beauty May 2013
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In brief ■ Medi-Heel strengthens its footprint Medi-Heel recently signed a distribution contract with NPI International in Delray Beach Florida. The newly appointed company will be handling all the Southern United States spa-exclusive sales of the brand. Locally, the brand is still expanding, having recently taken on seven SA salon stockists in just over a month. ■ Strategic appointments at Charlotte Rhys
Charlotte Rhys has appointed two of its key employees, Charles Mhango (head of operations) and Cheryl de Swardt (head of administration), as directors and shareholders of the company, in recognition of their hard work and loyalty. This move leaves the partners free to grow the company internationally. ■ Best Lasers receives notable accolades
Best Lasers walked away with an award for Highest Growth of the Year 2012 at the EMEA Awards recently held in Paris this year. This follows on from its previous award for Best Sales Growth for 2011 – Europe, Middle East and Africa. ■ Rain opens the doors of its third international store South African brand Rain has opened a new store in the Netherlands, situated in Den Hague, in a hip and trendy shopping area. The store is located in the same street as the Queen’s palace. ■ BeautyEurasia 2013 is geared for growth BeautyEurasia 2013, the Eurasian region’s leading cosmetic, beauty and hair exhibition, which is to take place from June 13 - 15 at Tuyap Exhibition Centre in Istanbul, Turkey, is expected to continue last year’s growth, with 25% growth in terms of size and scope being predicted.
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Professional Beauty May 2013
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Allergan launches Medical Aesthetics Academy in SA Globally, the anti-ageing market is expected to reach about $274bn in 2013, with more than $100bn of that spend devoted to appearance. There’s a lot of money to be made and it has seen the beauty and aesthetic medicine industry expand – in good ways and bad. The dangerous elements are the entry of illegal, low-grade products on the market and their use by unethical industry practitioners. The other challenges are more subtle: bad results most often occur when an incorrect technique, dosage or dilution is applied by an inexperienced, unskilled or ill-informed practitioner. States Dr Alek Nikolic, a practitioner of aesthetic medicine for over 14 years: “Depending on the level of experience, training and knowledge of the medical professional, we often see a lack of understanding of facial anatomy (i.e. the location of major nerves and arteries), injection techniques and approaches, and even of the ageing process of the face.”
In line with this challenge, Allergan has recently launched the Allergan Medical Aesthetics Academy (AMAA) in South Africa. The AMAA is dedicated to training medical professionals on intermediate and advanced injection techniques of fillers and neurotoxins. The AMAA uses a formal training model that incorporates theoretical and practical elements, and provides a platform for collaboration among professionals to share knowledge and discuss new approaches and advances. Allergan has also launched an international consumer education campaign, which
encourages consumers to ask their medical practitioner about the quality, heritage and scientific research behind facial injectables that the practitioner has chosen to use.
RegimA help to aid treatment of young burns victim Last year’s news headlines captured the hearts of South Africans when they reported the survival of three-year-old Pippie Kruger, who survived a horrific burn accident, suffering third-degree burns over 80% of her body. Due to the extent of the burns she underwent a revolutionary cloned skin transplant operation, and since has undergone a total of 45 operations. RegimA became involved with her homecare treatment via Glow Health & Beauty in Pretoria, which recommended the RegimA healing Scar Repair, Post Laser Gel and Tissue Resurrector to repair really hard-to-heal areas and
alleviate skin splitting during physical therapy sessions. Ultralite Therapeutic Massage was also introduced to make it a little easier to perform the physical therapy. Pippie’s mom, Anice Kruger, was impressed with the improvements: “These products are more
than fantastic and help my daughter a lot, especially if her skin starts peeling after a laser treatment. They keep her skin soft and supple and are clearing up the redness. In fact, Pippie had an open wound which healed in one week after starting to apply the Tissue Resurrector.”
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BUSINESS
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Wisdom of experience You don’t reach 20 years in business without making a few mistakes. Hellen Ward shares the lessons she’s learned at the helm of Richard Ward Hair and Metrospa. I can hardly believe that in October we • Nip nasty atmospheres in the bud – a rotten apple really celebrated 20 years in business. In 1992 we can make the others bad. As unpleasant as it may be, took our first, tentative steps as salon owners clear out the rotten apples and ensure that the fruits of and went about turning around a bankrupt your labour can blossom. business. Many sleepless nights and tearful mornings later, • Expect to make unpopular decisions – you cannot be we’ve hardly caught our breath. Like many entrepreneurs, everybody’s friend if you want to be a good leader. we took the plunge, and, with a lungful of confidence and • Be diligent – nobody likes a flaky person, particularly as a gut full of worry, we trod a path where we made many, a boss. Get back to people, write things down and act on many mistakes but learnt hugely from each and every one. them. Only the very young and naïve can afford • Confront problems – they’re not going to be so risk-averse, and failure never really we made many, many to go away by ignoring them, in fact entered the equation, even though every they’ll only grow bigger. mistakes but learnt • Delegate and teach – ensure everyone day it reared its ugly head, until it receded from imminent view some years later. has a clear idea of what you’re expecting. hugely from each We were lucky in that we decided early They prefer it. and every one. on to invest in our team. We knew we • Praise, criticise, praise – delivering the could only really cultivate a “brand ethos” bad news sandwich between two slices of by growing a team of our own. Training and education has pleasantness is the best way to get results. been our focus, and we are fortunate that many of our • Believe in yourself – the minute you waver or stop taking original team are still on the journey with us because of our the “can do” approach, the team instinctively feels your investment in their careers. wobble. So what have we learned? Well I decided that I’d share • Everything is your problem and responsibility – with you my 20 golden rules – one for each year I’ve overwhelming but true. Light bulb out? My problem. been in business. Sandwich stale? Yep, that’s me too (I know I’m not the chef and we contract out our catering, but you get the idea). What I’ve learned • Clear your head – running, walking, cycling, • Plan, plan, plan – whenever I don’t plan I swimming – whatever it takes to keep you absolutely come unstuck. Forewarned is sane will normally involve some physicality. forearmed. • Keep a bedside notebook – on paper • Be a pessimist/realist – For every sales equals out of head. rep that tells me: “if you just sold one • Beware of people who can deliver course to every tenth client …” you’ll miracles – the salon owner who tells you find me sneering. “If only” doesn’t live you’re missing a trick then you find in the real world, so I’ll just assume out he’s gone bust. Trust your own the worst. judgement. • Get back to basics – there’s • Stay focused – Prioritise, keep nothing like it for getting a bit your brand pure, don’t be afraid of perspective. A good old clear to say no. Focus is key. out of the stockroom keeps your • Expect some curve balls – You feet on the ground. never know what’s going to • Bosses must be perfect – sigh. happen, so take each day Make-up on – check. Smile on – as it comes and follow rule you bet. Does the team realise number one (plan, plan, plan) it’s draining for me, too? Always for anything you know you’ve sober at the Christmas party? got coming. That’ll be the boss, then. • Learn, unlearn, relearn – Be • The 80/20 rule – I spend 80% prepared to open your mind of my time dealing with 20% and unlearn the bad stuff. of my workload. Apparently • Take your team on the it applies to everything – for journey with instance, you wear 20% of your you – because wardrobe 80% of the time. I try they are the key to remind myself of the hassleto it all. PB free remainder and how lucky I am to have it.
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.
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BUSINESS
Changing mind sets Staff retention directly impacts business turnover. Philippa Abbott focuses on how to shift your therapists’ thinking, time and drive.
T
he two main things my clients ask me daily are: • How can they increase turnover? • How can they improve staff retention? It is amazing how closely linked these two topics are, and how often it is not seen that they directly impact each other. The long-term health of your business largely depends on staff loyalty and how long they stay and grow within your business. They play such a fundamental role in your daily revenue; but how do you get them to stay and how do you get them to sell themselves, as well as their services and products? Customer satisfaction and products sales rely heavily on your regular clients seeing their regular therapist. Staff turnover at our spas and salons is so high though that it is negatively influencing our business’s turnover. We need to make a concerted effort to ensure that our therapists remain in our employ and that we develop them as much as we can. We have to get them “businessfocused” and teach them how much they impact our bottom line. So how do we change their mindset? Most of the time, we have to start with ourselves. There are simple things that can be implemented into any spa or salon business to ensure success in this regard. All it takes is a slight shift in thinking, time and drive and our therapists will be money-making machines. Why? Because they will feel empowered, involved and can see how they fit into the bigger picture. These “ways and means” have been around forever and I never understand why business-owners do not take the time to implement them in order to ensure the success of their spas and salons. All the busiest, most profitable ones are doing them – because they work and they yield the desired results. So where do you start? Here are several ideas about how to change your therapists’ mind set:
Transparency This is always a debatable topic, but an absolute must when getting everyone on the same page. Just ask the average therapist what the
“cost of sale” is and see the blank look on their faces. This is because they do not understand: firstly, what it costs to run a spa or salon, and, secondly, why things are priced the way they are. You have to explain this to them, otherwise why should they bother to care how much product they waste; or how important it is that they turn off a light when they leave a treatment room. You have to be transparent with your staff; explain to them the difference between turnover and profit and how different the two are. We have to teach them how to think like business-people or else how can we ever expect them to learn to run their columns like their own businesses.
Morning huddles and staff meetings Our days are so fast-paced and our staff are coming and going at different times so it is often hard to keep track of what is going on. We have to take the time to see each of them, even if it is for one minute, every day. As we all know >
Professional Beauty May 2013
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BUSINESS
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The therapists must see themselves as “Spa Pros”. If they do not believe that they are, how will your customers? Standards and structure No-one really likes rules and regulations but they have to exist in order for a business to operate optimally. Just as it is imperative that our children have boundaries, it is of the utmost importance that our spas and salons run to a strict code of conduct. Each and every procedure must be trained and documented to ensure order and discipline. These must be followed and enforced fairly and across the board so there are never any grey areas. Contracts, handbooks, look-books and SOP manuals must be in place so that no one is ever in the dark. Everyone then knows what is expected of them and what their deliverables are.
Incentives
by now, it is vital that our therapists are reaching a ratio of 40% retail to turnover in order for them to be taking home the salaries they want and for your businesses to be seeing a decent profit. We must use this “huddle” to get them focused on revenue first thing in the morning, so that they have a game plan for the day and they are always set up to hit target. Break their figures down for them on a daily basis – a small target per day is so much easier to achieve than one large one for the month. Keeping your eye on what they are doing day to day means you constantly have your finger on the pulse of your business. So if there is an irregular heartbeat it can be taken care of sooner rather than later. Use your quiet times for monthly meetings. Discuss the past month’s revenue – negatives and positives. Reward your top achievers and praise them in front of their colleges. This inspires them to keep pushing and others to be more like them. Plot your game plan for the coming month together and take their ideas into account. They are the life force of the business, they know what the clients want – listen!
Set incentives every month. Therapists can get very bored with the day-to-day tasks of the operation of the spa or salon. Understand what motivates your staff members and tailor the rewards according to them. This encourages healthy competition and gives them something special to work towards. You can choose daily incentives to boost quiet days or maximise on busy days. If you have a large team divide them up into smaller groups and let them compete against each other. This builds camaraderie and teaches them to be team-players in every aspect of their working days. They are inspired and have tangible goals to work towards other than just their salaries. Don’t forget your front office team when setting incentives. They are the driving force behind the scene and should also be rewarded for increasing sales and maximising bookings.
Keep your staff excited Our industry moves and grows on a daily basis, don’t be left behind. I am not saying that you have to run out and buy a new machine every month, but at least mix things up a bit. Their jobs can become mundane if they are not stimulated with new things; and if they are bored, I can almost guarantee your clients are bored too. Add-on
treatments or small add-on product lines will keep them interested and excited about their jobs; as well as their client’s homecare results. This will have such a positive impact on your business and the attitude of your staff.
Teach your staff to think of themselves as professionals This is by far the most important and the most forgotten piece of the puzzle. The therapists must see themselves as “Spa Pros”. If they do not believe that they are, how will your customers? So many of the pains involved in running a spa or a salon can be attributed to our therapists not believing that they are the professionals. The way a therapist presents herself and her treatment area is directly linked to what she thinks of herself. They are selling themselves to their clients before they sell any service or product. If they lead by example they will have a much more fruitful outcome and income.
Training and development programmes Continuous training is key, and this is not only related to developing your staff professionally with product training and new treatments, but also in terms of personal development. They need to be self-actualised experts in order for your clients to view them as such. Spend time on developing each of their individual skill sets and you will see how your team flourishes. We have access to so many brilliant business and life coaches; use them. Not to mention the amount of free inspirational media available to us – use it all.
Research Allow your staff to research and learn. Ensure they have access to what is going on in the industry. Trade shows, launches and conferences should always be attended as a team. Their involvement in these events makes them feel like professional and helps them realise not only how big the industry is that they are a part of, but how wonderful it is to be a part of it. PB
Philippa Abbott is the owner of Spa Sense Consultants, a business that specialises in consultancy, training and recruitment for the spa and beauty industry. Email her at: philippa@spasense.co.za
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Professional Beauty May 2013
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Role of Cortisol Dr Gys Du Plessis answers your health, wellness and anti-ageing questions.
Dear Doctor Gys, my GP has put me on anti-depressants and anxiolytics, and tells me I have reached a burnout. How much does my own cortisol add to this, and how does it affect me from a physical, emotional and anti-ageing perspective?
T
he role and place of our own cortisol, if it remains chronically high, is of extreme relevance and importance in all three areas about which you are enquiring. When it is chronically raised because of stress it causes a syndrome we refer to as Adrenal Stress, and if it carries on for too long it eventually leads to adrenal fatigue and resulting burnout. Before we reach the very unfortunate state of a burnout it has grave implications for our emotional state, health and the speed at which we age. Many of our most common chronic health problems, like too-high cortisol levels, are driving weight gain, memory loss, high blood pressure and immune problems as we get older. Cortisol, being the most important of our stress hormones when we respond to real and perceived emergencies, pushes up the levels of glucose by releasing it from tissues where it is stored. This, in turn, signals to the pancreas to release insulin, which clears sugar from the blood into your cells. When this happens chronically it creates a devastating cycle of alternating high blood sugar and insulin levels. The body eventually becomes less sensitive to insulin, causing the so-called metabolic syndrome or syndrome X. This is one of the main ways in which stress contributes to disease and accelerated ageing and death. We store more fat because of this, leading to weight gain and obesity. It also raises triglycerides and is a precursor to adult onset diabetes. Constantly high cortisol also leads to impairment of the immune system, with more colds and flu and fungal infections. Cortisol impairs neurological function and is harmful to our brain cells. This was
shown in studies to impair memory and cognitive function; a decline that is often hastened in people with higher cortisol levels, and which obviously accelerates ageing. The impact on the brain is much more than just cognitive. The high cortisol levels lead to abnormalities in the levels of serotonin, dopamine and other neurotransmitters in the brain. This leads to anxiety and endogenous depression with tiredness, insomnia, impaired stress management and diminished self-image. The anxiety also originates primarily because of the nature of cortisol and its partner stress hormone from the adrenals, directly causing anxiety, agitation and edginess. The depressive symptoms and signs are on their own aggravating the whole cortisol stress picture, also known as Adrenal Stress, causing an everperpetuating vicious cycle. The less serious physical but more commonly recognised debilitating conditions in chronic high cortisol levels are muscle spasms with increased tension headaches and diffuse body stiffness and pain. Adding to this is the ever-present irritable bowel syndrome in the background. The mixture of depression, anxiety, muscle spasm and irritable bowel syndrome often becomes so intertwined that in the end we do not even know what caused what and which was first. Cortisol, if high, suppresses important hormones like DHEA and the sex hormones that prevent hastened ageing. It also indirectly leads to higher levels of free radicals and inflammation via its negative influence on Insulin. This inflammation and the glycation effects of insulin accelerate ageing on all levels in the body.
chronically raised cortisol levels drive weight gain, memory loss, high blood pressure and immune problems.
In fact, as we age the levels of all the hormones in our bodies actually become lower and lower and even disappear. The only two hormones that increase with ageing are actually cortisol and insulin. One can actually refer to them as the big ageing hormones, especially if chronically high in levels. This has to be addressed with hormonal modulation, supplements, stress management techniques and medication to remove the cause and treat the consequences. PB If you would like to ask Dr Gys du Plessis a question please email the editor at sally@ probeauty.co.za. Sekected questions and answers will be published in the following issue of the magazine.
Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in holistic, integrative and aesthetic medicine. He has founded and led two holistic centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.facebook.com/drgys1
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We are pleased to announce the launch of eight new, additional colours to our gel range.
CGBB01
CGBL02
CGBL03
CGBL04
CGNG01
CGPI01
CGRE02
CGRE03
Please check with your Calgel distributor, our head office or our website for details.
Calgel www.cal-mo.com 011 624 1101
Visit us at Stand B6 at Professional Beauty Durban
2013 19 & 20 MAY
DURBAN
E *OnlIn S COurSE nOw ED launCh
Sally Durant Training and Consultancy In association with Karen Ellithorne
"Excellence is an art won by training..." Aristotle
Sally Durant has built an international reputation for her expertise in skin health and clinical aesthetics. She is engaged by many high profile corporations and works alongside some of the top clinical professionals, dermatologists and cosmetic scientists. Sally has now converted her widely acclaimed advanced seminars, covering a wide variety of specialist areas of skin health and cosmetic dermatology, into a unique online format. Through the innovative audio-visual delivery, now you can access advanced training by means of a “virtual” home seminar with comprehensive study notes, completion exercises and CPD accreditation. The courses cover the subject matter in unprecedented depth and are ideal for all professionals working, or wishing to work, in the remedial skin care industry. Karen Ellithorne at AesthetiMed is proud to have been appointed as the sole distributor of these online courses in South Africa.
Courses currently available through Spa & Salon Solutions are*: > Advanced Skin Science – foundation course > Investigative Consultation and Advanced Skin Assessment > The Skin Ageing Process and Regenerative Treatments > Photoageing and Pigmentation Irregularities of the Skin > The Causes, Development and Treatment of Acne Vulgaris > Understanding and Treating Hypersensitive Skin and Rosacea * Foundation course available now – remainder to be phased in up to June 2013
For more information and to see samples of the online presentations, go to www.aesthetimed.co.za and follow the links to Sally Durant Training & Consultancy, where you will also be able to place your order.
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SPA NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Fancourt spa introduces Watsu Hydrotherapy Award-winning spa Fancourt has added Watsu – one of the world’s leading hydrotherapy treatments – to its existing range of advanced spa healing therapies.
Watsu was developed as a form of aquatic bodywork in 1980 by Harold Dull, president of the Worldwide Aquatic Bodywork Association (WABA), and is a gentle form of body therapy performed in warm water that combines elements of massage, joint mobilisation, shiatsu, muscle-stretching and dance. At Fancourt, this specialised form of Aqua Therapy is performed in the ozonated
Roman Bath adjacent to the spa, by on-site physiotherapist Verona Cronje. She is a WABAregistered Watsu practitioner, one of only a handful in the country. Her Watsu sessions are as popular with busy executives as they are with visitors vacationing here. The therapy produces powerful anxiety- and stress-relieving
Phytomer launches Oligomer Spa Breaking ground in the application of Marine Biotechnology in skincare, Phytomer has now launched its second treatment – Oligomer Spa Replenishing Holistic Body Treatment. Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers, attended the official international launch of this treatment, which was held at Phytomer’s head office in Saint-Malo, France, during February. This treatment showcases star ingredient Oligomer, whose benefits include remineralising the body with 104 trace elements. Rajah is excited about this holistic body treatment, which includes unorthodox massage techniques. “This treatment takes the spa experience to a whole new level and is expected to be launched in South Africa towards the middle of this year,” she says. “It is a complementary treatment to its facial counterpart, the Youth Revealing Pioneer treatment, which was launched in South Africa earlier this year.”
effects, and assists with pain relief and effective digestion. Cronje credits Watsu therapy as being a great healer, aided by the warm water that relaxes the muscles and supports the spine. Healing is further bolstered by the tranquil interiors of the spa, where calming music and the subtle fragrance of Frangipani incense fill the air. She also runs a twice-weekly
general strengthening Hydro class at the Fancourt Spa, using mainly Halliwick (a swimming technique for people with physical disabilities) and Pilates principles. Her classes are attended by people recovering from injuries and surgery, as well as enthusiastic golfers, who need more flexibility and strength to be able to keep doing what they love most at an optimum level.
LTI announces its Spa of the Year 2012
Left to right: Nadya Slabber (assistant spa manager); Dr Katerina Tsvietkova (Co-owner LTI); Francisco Garcia (spa director); Jenny Kusel (second-placed therapist of the year); Evelyn Stewart (LTI CT rep); and Derek Terry (Co-owner LTI).
Arabella Spa was recently presented with the LT International spa of the Year Award for 2012. “Spa director Francisco Garcia and his team have really worked hard to receive this award, and against plenty of strong competition,” says LT International co-owner, Derek Terry. “LT International has always been a company close to
my heart,” says Garcia. “The team’s business ethics, client support, client customer service and human approach to business make it a true gem within the industry. Overall the products are highly concentrated and effective, designed to specifically treat concerns that most of our customers experience.” Jenny Kusel, one of the
therapists at the spa, was also awarded second place in LTI’s 2012 Therapist of the Year Award. “LTI offers amazing homeopathic oils, which I can recommend and prescribe according to each client’s need or concern. Retailing this product comes naturally, as it is easy to sell and recommend, and is a product I believe in,” she adds.
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SALON REVIEW
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Lounge in luxury To be treated, pampered, indulged – this is what we would like to expect when visiting a salon for treatment. Sally Harvey finds out how Skin & Nail Lounge has taken its offering to this level and beyond.
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don’t know about you, but when I hear the word lounge, it immediately evokes a sense of homely comfort with a touch of elegance and charm. And, that is exactly what I felt when I walked into the Skin & Nail Lounge in Bryanston. Owners, husband and wife team, Gina and James Gall, who have frequented many salons, wanted to create a sophisticated, luxury appeal for the guest – one inspired by the special pleasures found in a boutique hotel lounge.
And they have done just that, from padded high chairs fit for royalty pedicures to plush marble surfaces to pamper and preen the hands. Private treatment rooms also offer clients a host of professional skin care treatments. “The niche focus of this salon was luxury, express nails followed by skincare,” says Gina. “This is very different to my other salon – Skin Lab – which is far more skin specific. “ “My role in both places is also different – at Skin Lab I am a working owner, while with Skin & Nail Lounge, I have had to put on a management cap, and oversee this project from a whole new standpoint. This transition, although challenging at times, has taught me so much about all facets of this business, and has given me a greater understanding of what is expected to make a success in this business.”
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online at www.probeauty.co.za
Only part of their vision was to create a sophisticated, upmarket lounge-style appeal to the interior space, which was successfully achieved with the assistance of The Spa Consultants. What was even more top of mind was to be able to provide top-notch service to clients; to have the skilled staff to perform the best treatments. “We do not just stop at hiring fully qualified staff, but we believe in going a step further through continued training on-site,” says Gina. “This is when we decided to bring consultant, Sonette van Rensburg on board to continuously train our technicians on professional technique, care and service. This has made such a difference to the business as well as empowering and uplifting our staff.” “When we started thinking about the business, location was everything,” adds James. “So when a space became available in this busy little shopping centre just down the road from where we live, it was just perfect. With the gym, coffee shops and grocery store it is always abuzz with activity, gaining us immediate interest and walk-ins – even on the very first day we opened our doors. Within the first week 100 flyers had been taken and we were well on our way with solid bookings and sales. “For me, the major drawcard is the nail and pedicure lounge, and from this starting point we can easily build up to a more treatment-based experience - as the customer learns to love the space, what we are about, what we
“The niche focus of this salon was luxury, express nails followed by skincare.” Gina Gall, owner
have to offer, they won’t think of going anywhere else.” What is so refreshing to see is how interested James is in every aspect of the business, even though he runs his own plumbing business, which has come in handy many times during construction and the day-to-day mechanical setbacks. There is such passion, and this is strongly present throughout my conversation with both man and wife. I don’t see this being their last salon – they have vision and the ability to find the gem in the rough. I can see a new niche salon in the future and I look forward to my next visit. Products on board: Lamelle, Dermlogica, Spalicious, Lava Shells and OPI. PB
Contact: 011 463 2860
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TREATMENT REVIEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Future forward Finding a system that can address facial and body concerns in one is definitely beneficial for business. Sally Harvey looks at the capabilities, benefits and results of the BTL Exilis.
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must say I was intrigued to find out what kind of results could be achieved with the BTL Exlis. Although our main focus was on the collagen remodelling and rejuvenation of the facial features with this advanced aesthetic system, it was great to also experience the body contouring and volume reduction capabilities of this dual energy technology. What is so different with the unit is the simultaneous use of radiofrequency (electric current), ultrasound (mechanical occilation) – two different sources of heat – and advanced cooling in a single hand piece. It offers 3-4 times higher energy levels for faster, more efficient therapy without compromising on safety and comfort for the client. This is achieved
through the installed EFC software, which controls the energy flow and automatically eliminates energy peaks. This process is known as Square Spectrum Energy Profiling and is a unique feature of Exilis high frequency therapy. This also enables the therapist to work slower on the skin without the risk of overheating or burning, making it a much more pleasurable and relaxing experience. Another advantage of the Elixis design is that the therapist can regulate
the temperature directly from the handpiece while they are busy working on the client. This prevents any loss of heat, which is usually experienced should the therapist need to move away from the client to adjust certain levels. In terms of the face, the treatment took an hour, showing immediate, visible result. Six treatments are recommended for best results, with maintenance sessions every six months thereafter. The results: skin tightness, tissue volume, tone and elasticity. I could also definitely already see an improvement in wrinkle size and depth even after just one treatment. PB
Contact: BTL Medical SA on +27 76 232 80 58 or email: btl-sa@btlnet.com
Skin-specific treatment With hyperpigmentation being of main concern, Sally Harvey visited DermaFix to experience its rapid exfoliation and firming facial enzyme treatment.
W
hat is of benefit to both the client and therapist is that all DermaFix facials are adapted according to the needs and specific skin concerns of the client. Although I really wanted to work on pigmentation, I was well-pleased to hear that the treatment was also going to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and provide a powerful antioxidant and lifting action. Due to the fact that I already had experienced a facial within the same week, coupled with my heightened sensitivity, the therapist decided to perform the DermaFix Rapid Exfoliation technique. This treatment is ideal for clients who struggle with sensitive skin and whose skin cannot tolerate microdermabrasion
or other skin removal techniques, such as chemical peeling. A combination of enzyme-based exfoliation along with a natural fine crystal is used. This provides the client with a mechanical peel alternative to traditional peeling methods and is gradual, controlled and adjusted according to skin type and tolerance. The star product used in the treatment for me was the Firming Facial Enzyme Masque with MSM and DMAE. I was amazed with the multi-functional action of the enzymes of this masque on the skin. Not only does it remove and hydrolyse redundant cells but has the
added benefit of re-educating the muscles, tightening and toning the sub-dermal area. It holds the facial muscles in contraction for the duration of the masque. This promotes a vascular reaction, causing the muscles to pulsate, as in passive exercise for increased circulation and lymphatic drainage. Trust me, this is a result-driven facial – the skin is kept taught and you feel it working. The added benefit for the client is that once the masque is removed, the therapist can use it to show the client the key areas where skin tissue is starting to slacken and age. This treatment ends with a cocktail of DermaFix ActiveCellCeuticals: super hydrating Hyaluronic Gel and healing Copper Peptide followed by the application of stem cell loaded PowerDerm and, of course, protection with DermaShield SPF45 UVA/UVB sun screen. PB
Contact: DermaFix on 0861 28 23 23 or email: ursula@dermafix.co.za
Professional Beauty May 2013
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Advanced Cosmeceuticals... Visible results. www.dermafix.co.za
orders@dermafix.co.za
0861 28 23 23
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PIGMENTATION
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Managing melanin Pigmentation is a challenge to treat. Many factors need to be taken into account prior to treatment, but with the correct protocols and professional application, there are a number of approaches that are showing promising results. Sally Harvey investigates.
Microneedling “The Microneedling (or Collagen Induction Therapy) process involves rolling over the skin with a hand-held device containing micro-fine needles of a predetermined length,” says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix. “This roller is utilised to create a ‘wound’ in the skin as to stimulate collagen induction and serves as a trans-dermal delivery device to increase the penetration of active skin care ingredients,” adds Diana van Sitterts of Nimue. “The microneedling treatment will have an indirect effect on most types
of hyperpigmentation (melasma, chloasma, post-inflammatory HP, photomelanosis) as it will ‘lift’ the pigmented cells to the surface due to the deeper collagen production. The direct effect on hyperpigmentation, however, will only be achieved if products for this purpose are used with or after the treatment. “The advisable length is between 1mm and 3mm, as dermal penetration is then achieved. Using needles shorter than 1mm in length will only serve as an ingredient penetration channel, but will not penetrate deep enough to reach >
Professional Beauty May 2013
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the melanocyte cells that form pigment/ melanin. “Depending on needle length, results should be noticeable after 2-3 treatments, with 6-8 treatments being recommended,” states Volbrecht. “With this treatment you should avoid treating clients with active acne, fever blisters or impetigo; severe couperose, skin cancers or uncontrollable diabetes, haemophiliacs, or those being treated with chemotherapy, radiotherapy, cortisone and roaccutane/accutane. Avoid areas of compromised barrier functioning, such as warts, moles, open wounds or sores, and the risks involved in keloid-prone skin type should be discussed with the individual. Certain medications lower the healing response in the skin and doctor’s consent may be required. “If correct procedures are adhered to, microneedling can be considered a safe method of treating the skin. Strict hygiene practices should be in place to prevent infection or any crosscontamination from one client to the next. Make use of disposable items so as to minimise risk, one roller per client with autoclaving or suitable cold sterilant. “ “Due to the fact that the collagen induction process is natural, the treatment is safe to use on all photo types. This treatment will also not lead to induced sun sensitivity due to the fact that it is non-ablative,” concludes Sitterts.
Chemical peels Dr Cobus van Niekerk at Wellnessthetics refers to chemical peels as a method of regenerating and resurfacing the skin by inducing a controlled wound to the skin. “They remove the top layer of the skin to help induce collagen remodelling and therefore improving sun-damaged skin, skin pigmentation problems, wrinkles, skin texture, and the overall appearance of the skin,” he says. “Chemical peeling results are dependent on the active used, the pH of the active as well as the depth of the injury created,” adds Sitterts. “The strength or aggression of a chemical peel is solely dependent on the
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pH, potential hydrogen value. The golden pH would be 3.4. The pH of the chemical peel will also determine the severity of the peeling/shedding of the skin layers as well as the recovery or ‘down’ time required,” says Shannon Brown of Babor. Van Niekerk does confirm that deeper peels will have a greater number of complications and a longer recovery, but also will result in a greater improvement in the skin. “Generally not all skin types with excess pigmentation can be treated with chemical peels,” says Jackire Swart, head of R & D at Nimue International. “There are variable factors to consider in each case.” “The best cases for chemical peels are the light skin types I, II, and III (based on the Fitzpatrick Skin Classification), which has less chance for such complications as hyper (dark spots) and hypo (light spots) pigmentation and scarring,” says Ayesha Rajah of A&I Importers. “Although skin types V and VI are not ideal for peels, they can be peeled using superficial peeling systems with low percentages of acids or acid combinations.” “Chemical peels are to be taken very seriously,” says Brown. “If a skin demonstrates any level of sensitivity, a chemical peel could very easily aggravate or worsen the condition. The skin’s defence could even be pigmentation. A thorough
DermaFix before and after - Dermal staining and “confetti” scattered hyperpigmentation can take up to a year at monthly intervals with the use of a professional skin care brand which understands the complexities of the various pigmentation disorders.
Nimue’s Biolacto Peel is a time dependent gel-based peel based on a complex of seven compounds. The skin is prepared with a twophase Tetra Enzymatic Exfoliation System for optimum results.
online at www.probeauty.co.za skin analysis and medical history needs to be discussed as to ensure that all avenues are covered prior to performing the chemical peel. “Pigmentation caused by hormonal influences is usually more difficult to treat as it may be deepseated in the skin layers. However, a peeling treatment will assist in lightening and brightening the area and assisting in an even complexion. Freckles, and pigmentation caused through excessive sun-exposure are the quickest to respond and often the most successful.” “The success of peeling is based on proper technique and qualified people performing treatments,” adds Van Niekerk. “Human error can burn or leave a patient with hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation or both.” “Harsh peeling formulations can also cause hypertrophic and keloid scarring on the skin,” adds Jacqui Faucitt of RegimA. Sitterts believes that avoiding sun exposure has a direct link to the success of the treatment and its results: “Long-term hyperpigmentation improvement will not only depend on the peel but also on the client’s lifestyle and pigment-inhibiting products used at home.” “If the client is treated with correct homecare, follows post-treatment instructions and uses a good broadspectrum SPF, the pigmentation should not return,” says Rajah. “However, there are unfortunately factors that can cause pigmentation to resurface at a later stage, such as over-exposure to the sun, especially if the condition is hereditary or hormonally induced.” “Chemical peeling is not a onceoff solution for hyperpigmentation, and it should be explained to the client that it will have to become part of his/her skin care regimen,” adds Van Niekerk.
PIGMENTATION
Advanced Combination Treatment Expand your practice to the ultimate
The strength or aggression of a chemical peel is solely dependent on the pH, potential hydrogen value. The golden pH would be 3.4.
One system—multiple applications
Avoid using chemical peel treatments on open or irritated skin, skin infections, eczema or psoriasis, active herpes simplex, severe couperose or active acne, sunburn or skin recently exposed to tanning bed, or immediate post-facelift or facial surgery. “It is never recommended for a pregnant or lactating lady to peel, as her skin is highly influenced by hormones, which may interfere with the results or healing of the skin, also their level of sensitivity is increased,” adds Sitterts. “If the client is prone to adverse reactions in general, the treatment should also be avoided. Chemical peeling should be left to a more mature and aging skin. Teens and young adults should be treated with high precaution.” Certain medications must be discontinued for at least five days before a chemical peel until five days after a chemical peel, according to the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. These medications include Trentinoin, Renova, Tazorac, EpiDuo, Retin-A, Differin, Avage and Ziana. “Some companies even go as far as contraindicating chemical peels for up to six months after oral Retinoid usage,” says Van Niekerk. “The time required between peel treatments is dependent on many factors, including the patient’s skin type, the type of peeling agent (acid) used, and the concentration of the peeling agent. As a rule of thumb, I recommend that my patients have an initial course of peel treatments every two weeks for four weeks, followed by one peel a month to maintain results,” states Van Niekerk. “Client tolerance of the treatment plays an important role in how often a treatment can be given and the length of the treatment,” adds Faucitt.
• Touch screen operation • Patient database with on-screen keyboard • Easy and safe to use • Cost effective Used for: • Hair removal • Skin rejuvenation • Wrinkle reduction • Pigmented lesions • Leg veins • Vascular lesions • Acne vulgaris
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Body contouring for both face and body Cryotherapy Used for: • Facial and body skin tightening • Circumference reduction • Fat removal • Cellulite reduction • Wrinkle reduction • Facial lift • Body reshaping • Lymph drainage
CoaxMed
Microdermabrasion “Microdermabrasion makes use of a hand-piece which has either a rough diamond tip, or crystal beads, with a vacuum, which is worked over the skin to loosen, and remove or ‘buff off’ the outer layer of skin (the stratum corneum)," says Dr Martin Kelly, Plastic Surgeon at Sunninghill Aesthetics. “The body sees this as an ‘injury’ and has a healing effect, as it encourages newer cells to move to the surface, resulting in the skin being rejuvenated faster. “It helps soften fine lines, and helps improve skin texture, pigmentation, congestion, acne, sun damage, dull skin, mild scarring, and improves product penetration, due to removing the outer dead skin layer. “All skin types and ethnic groups can benefit and be treated,” he says. ”However caution needs to be taken for individual with extremely sensitive skin, rosacea and dilated capillaries. “Generally the deeper and older the pigmentation is, the more challenging it is to improve, especially with more superficial treatments such as microdermabrasion. “Hyperpigmentation such solar keratosis (sun damage) can be improved with microdermabrasion. However melasma (brown patches) Cholasma as well as freckles are not treated very successfully with microdermabrasion treatments.” Sun exposure can result in the pigmentation coming back. The use of sun block and going for maintenance treatments every 6-8 weeks are therefore very important to help maintain the results. This treatment should not be performed >
Professional Beauty May 2013
Microlight HR-3
I2PL+ SPT+
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FusioMed
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Superficial and deep wrinkles Hyperkeratosis Sun-damaged skin Small wrinkles Acne and skin impurities Enlarged pores Rough and thickened skin Hyperpigmentation marks Stretch marks Acne scars Hair loss
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on skin with active rosacea or acne, those who are pregnant or sunburnt or are taking cortisone, blood thinning medication or roaccutane.
Light therapy “There are basically two types of light therapy used to treat hyperpigmentation: IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and lasers. Both technologies are very effective in hyperpigmentation treatments,” states Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers. “IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and Lasers use the same principle to remove unwanted pigment, however, IPL emits multiple wavelengths of light, while lasers emit light of a single wavelength. Based on the type of hyperpigmentation to be treated and the area in which the hyperpigmentation occurs, there are pros and cons to each. Laser treatment is usually most effective in treating discrete lesions and thickened age spots and is more effective on skin discoloration that doesn’t respond to milder hyperpigmentation treatments. IPL is a better choice if the discoloration is over a wider area, but more IPL treatment sessions may be necessary for effective treatments. “Lasers selectively damage or destroy the darker area with no damage to the surrounding skin. Laser light is absorbed by the high concentration of melanin where it is converted into heat causing destruction of the darker areas. The broken pigmentation will either work its way to the surface of the skin and be shed or it will be absorbed in the deeper layers of the skin. “Depending on the type of discoloration, a patient may need one treatment or several. For example, age spots typically respond very quickly but birthmarks often require repeated treatment. You also need to be cautious when treating darker skin types. Fractional non-ablative CO2 laser treatment used with low energy levels is recommended. Although very low laser energy is used, it’s high enough to break up the pigment
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PIGMENTATION
Types of pigmentation that can be treated with laser: • Superficial sun damage • Benign pigmented lesions including dischromias • Lentigines (senile and solar) • Melasma (superficial) • Ephelides (freckles) • Poikiloderma • Nevus of Ota • Café-au-lait (macules) • Chloasma • Becker’s Nevi
online at www.probeauty.co.za
above: Medilase Microdermabrasion treatment. right: Clients should use RegimA Post Laser Gel as it promotes more rapid healing and a better end result post laser treatments.
Sharon Best, Best Lasers
without heating the skin. The low energy treatment parameter has no risk of PIH but necessitate more than one treatment session.” According to Sharon Best of Best Lasers, "The main advantages of laser are that there is more precision on control and less chance of hypopigmentation. If, however, an incorrect diagnosis is made of the pigmentation, and it is treated, the pigmentation can even get darker. For example, treating a dermal or junctional melasma. If in doubt, it is better to perform a test spot,” she adds. “Laser treatment can have a dramatically positive effect on hyperpigmentation disorders, but it is not a cure. If pigmentation problems are a result from sun exposure, as per >
left: Lumenis UltraPulse CO2 fraction laser system. below: Before and after three Lumenis M22 IPL treatments.
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PIGMENTATION
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example, the skin should in future be protected from UV rays,” adds Olivier. “Because there is a great deal of variability in the size, depth and darkness of spots and, and because there is some variability in people’s natural ability to clear away pigment after laser treatment, it is not wise to promise results after a fixed number of treatments. Experience will give the practitioner an indication of expected results. "You should not treat people that have experienced excessive sun exposure or recent hair removal or microdermabrasion treatments, have used chemical self-tanning lotion or sun activators, are pregnant, have skin infections, are taking fragilising medication, or use essential oils. "In terms of side effects, the simplest way to evade the side effects of laser treatment for hyper-pigmentation is to avoid sun exposure for a minimum of two weeks before and after the treatment procedure. As sun exposure can complicate the practitioner’s assessment of actual skin tone and thus the required laser intensity thus harming the skin,” says Olivier. “Burning can also occur if the laser parameters are not properly set – look out for FDA approved and CE marked equipment.” If treatment with an IPL system is recommended it is important that the system used can achieve desired results with as few treatments as possible. “Make sure the technology of system has the ability to provide for the consistent delivery of precise energy, safely and with reproducible results "As well as the ability to treat darker skin types as well as vascular and pigmented lesions,” says Olivier. Before treating any skin type with IPL, it is still important to evaluate what the pigmented lesion is, advises Best. “For example: whether it is superficial sun damage, superficial malasma, or a deeper malasma.” She lists the following pigmentation concerns that can be treated with IPL: Superficial sun damage; benign pigmented lesions including dischromias; lentigines (senile and solar); Melasma (superficial); Ephelides (freckles) and Poikiloderma.”
Combination treatments “With experience we have found that a combination of treatments can work extremely well for the clients who may have a number of skin problems,” says Faucitt. “The general rule is that treatments should be two weeks apart, a peel at one session and any of the other laser or microdermabrasion treatments two weeks later, but never
Gatineau White Plan products which, used regularly and in synergy, lighten the skin and make the complexion more radiant by promoting a reduction in the production of melanin and protecting the skin from rays of light.
on the same day, as this would cause excessive peeling which would definitely be contraindicated for pigmented skins.” “We have also experienced brilliant visible results by using microneedling for the delivery of active ingredients into deeper layers of skin, and then combined this treatment with superficial peeling either one week before or after the microneedling,” adds Volbrecht.
Topical applications The question always is: Do topical treatments work? “With use of modern, scientifically developed products it is possible to deliver active right at the level of the skin where it is going to achieve the best and most profound effect," says Dr Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals. “Pigmentation is quite a complex mechanism of skin trying to achieve some level of defence. In essence
Priori Even Tones is the first ever skin clarifying product to combine Idebenone Complex with Methyl Genitisale to visibly improve the appearance of uneven skin tones for dramatic results, DermaFix Vitamin C Serum (hydra-stabilized L-Ascorbic Acid) helps to reduce the visible signs of photo-ageing by helping to fight destructive free-radicals. RegimA includes high concentrations of Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) at a pH of around 3 in order to effectively penetrate the skin to inhibit tyrosinase, Ericson Laboratoire's Perfection White Expertise features three active ingredients and three actions for a completely spot-free whiteness.
melanin (skin pigment) is produced by the cells in the epidermis and then packed in little vesicles that will travel towards the surface of the skin. In the stage of skin injury, inflammation, over-exposure to sun and other harmful factors either the production of melanin or the increase of the melanocytes (cells that produce melanin), or both, will increase and create visible change that we call hyper-pigmentation. “This process can be prevented and stopped at various levels: at the level of melanin production, at the level of increasing the cell number (melanocytes) or at the level of transportation of the produced pigment. According to the active used, you will block the increase in pigmentation at their respective level of production and transportation. “Some of the old generation products were achieving that with >
According to the active used, you will block the increase in pigmentation at their respective level of production and transportation. Professional Beauty May 2013
33
huge adverse effects on the skin and health, whereby new technology and products that we have today available do not cause any harm or damage to the skin or general health.” In terms of ingredients, Dr Gobac advocates the use of Arbutin as one of those substances that block synthesis of melanin by blocking the enzyme that makes melanin out of tyrosine amino-acid. “The active is extracted from bearberry plant and is perfectly non-toxic and is active in very small percentages,” he says. “Another two of my favorites are Paper Mulberry extract that also works on the inhibition of the same enzyme and causes no side effects or adverse effects on the skin, and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C bonded to magnesium and phosphate to make it stable during the delivery into the skin) with a similar action that does the same thing as those two above.” Dr Alek Nikolic also highlights topical products that can treat pigmentation without non-invasive procedures, such as peels or laser. These include hydroquinone, depigmenting ingredients such as Bearberry, liquorice extract, alphahydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, Vitamin C and Vitamin A or their derivatives. SPF applied several times daily and sun avoidance is also advisable. “Topical ingredients will only lighten pigmentation or improve the overall appearance of pigmentation marks. Ingredients to look out for are: mandelic acid, Arginine, Arbutin, citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, kojic acid, retinal acetate or palmitate (Vitamin A derivatives), Vitamin C, liquorice extract, and bearberry extract,” he adds.
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PIGMENTATION
Faucitt highlights ingredients to avoid: • Hydroquinone – can be very effective in helping to lighten skin hyperpigmentation. However, because of side effects it is no longer sold in some countries. Side effects may start as a rash or redness but can lead to permanent hyperpigmentation (Ochronosis), with loss of skin elasticity and impaired healing. The skinlightening effects of hydroquinone decrease with prolonged use and with sun exposure. • Kojic acid – has been used on hy p e r p i g m e n t a t i o n but can cause skin sensitivity and allergic contact dermatitis. PB
Nimue Melanofade Mask offers a skin brightening complex and cutting edge molecule technology for visible results after 30 to 60 days of treatment. Pevonia Lumafirm Cream provides a significant and gradual decrease of hyperpigmentation with an average improvement of 33% lightening after 56 days. Skin Doctors SD White contains an optimum dose of Emblica an extraordinary plant extract scientifically proven to dramatically improve the appearance of darker skin pigmentation.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Dr. Gobac Lighten contains a botanical extract high in Arbutin, a known skin-lightening agent, This treatment is highly effective and safe to use in the long term as well as during pregnancy. Scinderm KojidermCAB products contain enzyme Arbutin for enhanced lightening and brightening in combination with Kojic, ascorbic and salicylic acids for chelating and antioxidant benefits. Coverderm’s whitening system contains seven active ingredients to effectively work in five steps to inhibit melanin synthesis. Thalgo Unizone ultra-concentrated clearing corrector makes it possible to specifically reduce the size and intensity of each pigmentation mark.
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY CAPE TOWN 2013
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Everything has Beauty
2013 cape town
“The position of the stand was great this year and we have already booked for Cape Town 2014.” Andre Nel, Beauty Tech
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Professional Beauty May 2013
This year the Professional Beauty CT show returned to the CTICC, attracting serious buyers from the city centre and outlying areas. Nearly 4000 visitors attended over the two days to gain greater insight into current industry trends and to review the latest product offerings.
T
he Cape Town beauty market was abuzz with excitement for yet another trade show in the region. At the start of the show queues reached almost 200m in length before the doors opened and visitors made their way into the main exhibition hall. The overall consensus among exhibitors was positive – they were happy with the leads and the quality of the visitors for this year’s event. A number of international guests from abroad were reported, along with quite a substantial amount of visitors from various countries within the African continent. Over and above top industry players, some of whom were attending the spa and medical aesthetics conference, as well as therapists, students, and press, the show even saw a dignitary – NSI had the privilege of hosting the mayor of Cape Town at its stand. Thalgo was particularly impressed with the interest received. Staff manning its stand were kept busy with visitors lining up to try the new Eye
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online at www.probeauty.co.za
“We had a lot of interest in our brand. I am very happy with the exposure the show gave the brand.” Tatiana Shuvalova, Ericsson Laboratoire
Bar Concept. Sparkle Cosmetics and Nails for U also pulled in the crowds at their stands with special show offers on a variety of items.
Conferences and seminars Education should always be on the top of the priority list when it comes to reaching business success. Professional Beauty therefore invests in delivering top-notch conferences and seminars that are designed to inject fresh ideas and knowledge into beauty business practices. From spa and salon owners and managers to therapists and students there is a platform for every professional to attend. A total of 90 delegates attended the spa and medical aesthetics conventions, with the SAAHSP seminars being fully
“Professional Beauty CT 2013 was such a successful show. Normally at an exhibition we gain many sales leads, however this year at the CT show we were afforded the opportunity to sign a lot of clients on the spot. We were also able to boost sales to existing clients.” Lydia Karstel, Marine Spa Distributor booked for both days. This shows that industry professionals are starting to take education more seriously for 2013 – a positive note for our industry.
Conventions Healthy Ageing was most definitely the talk of the day. Dr Gys Du Plessis shared some vitally important lifestyle changes to stay healthy and preserve life.
“We received lots of exposure, it was great that visitors came looking for us. We were even getting calls to place orders ahead of the show. It was a great show for us and we are looking forward to Professional Beauty Durban.” Penny Camacho, Vitaderm
A panel of speakers addressed massage. The consensus was to keep the offering simple; to rather deliver the most unforgettable massage than putting money and energy into strange alternatives, which will be phased out, leaving no loyalty. Francisco Garcia from the Arabella Spa in Kleinmond opened the delegates’ eyes to the actual expenses incurred in running a spa and how small things can impact the bottom line. Sunday ended off with international
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“We had a great show, we wanted to retail so that we could get new customers immediately onto our brand and we certainly achieved this, selling most of our stock on the Sunday.” Karen Ellithorne, Milk Solutions
guest Helen Merchant. Her presentation showed the changing face of our industry over the last 20 years. Pevonia was the exclusive sponsor for the International Spa Convention, providing gifts for all those who attended. The Medical Aesthetics Convention was extremely well received, with well-known medical doctors and industry specialists sharing their knowledge and expertise with the delegates over the three-day period. The Saturday was a doctor-only day and served as an introductory pre-convention programme to introduce new doctors to this exciting industry. It consisted of overview lectures taking the delegates through all the different aspects of medical aesthetics and provided some pointers on how medical aesthetics can be incorporated into a medical practice with ease. This was followed by some exciting demonstrations.
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Sunday’s lectures covered a wide variety of lectures, from facial anatomy, vein cauterisation, healthy ageing and scar treatments to name a few. On Monday the spa and medical aesthetics conventions joined to hear more about technological innovations, buzz ingredients and new techniques related to both industries. International speaker Helen Merchant’s lecture on forecasting and budgets was very well received by the delegates as many found this topic relevant to their businesses. They also enjoyed her cost-saving tips. The last session of the day also received notable attention. This practical social media workshop, run by specialist blogger Natasha Clarke, really exposed the delegates to a whole host of marketing opportunities available through social media. The SAAHSP seminars were also
“We had the most phenomenal response and interest, the beauty industry in Cape Town can’t wait for us to launch the first network meeting, which we are aiming to do in June.” Sonette van Rensburg, Professional Beauty Network
very well attended by both industry and students alike. Key speakers included: Amori Struwig, who focused on building a professional business relationship and client experience; Melissa Joy Wallace, who took attendees through all the vital and important necessities for a successful job interview. PB
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HAIR REMOVAL
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From the root Hair removal should be an easy business. You just need to ensure your therapists have the skill and proper knowledge and that you use a quality product to achieve effective results. Sally Harvey investigates two cost-effective hair removal processes.
WAXING What are the main factors that determine a quality wax? “This boils down to the use of good quality resin and beeswax,” says Melinda van der Walt of Melinda Waxes. “These are the main ingredients that, in essence, have to be as pure as possible and correctly refined before added as an ingredient. A modified resin or low grade beeswax generally make the depilatory waxes crystallise in summer due to the high moisture content. It is a cheaper option and used by lower-grade waxes.” “The wax should have a low working temperature and be able to gently remove even the shortest hair first time,” adds Lynda Germshuys of Lycon precision waxing. Carmen Kruger of Wax etc. also emphasises the need for the wax to be contained in hygienically sealed packaging, and for the product itself to be anhydrous (without water) to help to control bacteria.
Briefly describe the difference between strip and hot wax? “Hot wax, also known as warm wax, is generally a “toffee” type texture and is applied and removed in the opposite direction of hair growth,” says Van der Walt. “Hot wax is best used on the face, under-arm, and bikini area. Wax should not be applied in small patches, as the wax treatment will take longer and prolong the pain for clients. In my expert opinion hot wax should be applied in larger pieces and removed within a minute.” >
RIGHT: Lycon So Berry Strip Wax is strawberry scented with pink Micro Mica to ensure the skin is protected while waxing with no skin drag. Lycon Superberry Hot Wax features new generation resins to be ultra-pliable, calming titanium dioxide and a luscious berry scent.
LEFT: In line with Salon Specifics’ newly formulated range of waxes, the company has introduced Passionate Pomegranate Hot and Strip Wax – a bright red wax with a fresh, fruity scent.
Professional Beauty May 2013
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HAIR REMOVAL
In addition to its range of hot, Germshuys advocates this strip and film wax, Melinda method as far less painful than Wax has seen great success with its recently launched Blue most, pulling the hair directly Diamond hot and strip wax from the root. “This wax also and Ruby Crystal hot wax, as well as Melinda Wax’s Emerald promotes skin hydration and is Film wax which is especially therefore highly recommended designed for sensitive areas that include the face, ears and for sensitive areas, such as nose area. under-arm, bikini and facial waxing.” Strip wax is recommended for thicker, less-sensitive skin, such as the legs, arms, back, chest, and shoulders. “Strip wax is applied in the same direction and removed in the opposite direction by using a paper strip. Broken hairs are caused by therapists removing the wax strips incorrectly, generally not parallel to the body, and supporting the skin incorrectly,” adds Van der Walt.
What pre- and post-care products are recommended? “It is essential to use a skin cleaner before doing any waxing to remove make-up, environmental dirt or perspiration,” says Germshuys. “To make waxing less painful, you should use pre-waxing oil before applying hot wax – this will eliminate any skin drag. “An after-wax oil is best to use after strip wax treatments because it will help to dissolve any remainders of wax left on
Top waxing tips • Product training and knowledge is essential. • Wax should be at the correct working temperature. • Check that the room temperature is correct, not too cold or too warm, as this will affect the wax. • You need to work fast and efficiently. • Keep your client comfortable and calm. • Explain in detail, prior to the treatments, what the client can expect. This is especially important for intimate waxing. • Ensure you use a suitable wax for each client, depending on their needs and sensitivity. • Apply strip wax thinly and effectively remove parallel to the wax area by supporting the skin to avoid lifting. • Use larger pieces of hot wax when waxing the bikini area – much larger than a R5 coin. • Always use powder when waxing sensitive and moist skin types to avoid lifting and skin pulling. • Use consultation cards to confirm the client’s medical history, waxing preferences and marketing information for future appointments. • Post-waxing contraindications should be supplied on small cards with salon appointment details offering an “education” of the treatment. • Offer aftercare wax advice that includes a therapist demonstrating a body exfoliator and ingrown serum to assist the client with dead skin cell removal and the prevention of ingrown hairs.
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HAIR REMOVAL
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Pre- and post-care Lee-Chem Laboratories has a product called IngroZero which contains a combination of ingredients with calming, exfoliating and hydrating properties to protect against new ingrown hairs. Sprayology suggests AllergEase to be sprayed under the tongue pretreatment and topically post-treatment, as the natural histamine in its formula will assist in quickly relieving any rash or histamine sensitivities. Melinda Wax Citron Blue Prebase oil should be used with hot wax to alleviate the pain that can be experienced when removing wax from the client’s skin. Beauty Image Foli-end cream is enriched with Alpha Hydroxy Acid to favour cell renewal and help the natural growth of the hair.
the skin, and a soothing cream or gel with immediate soothing and anti-inflammatory properties is best used after hot wax treatments, to calm the sensitive areas.” What treatment protocols can you implement to ensure the least pain and avoid potential reactions on the client’s skin? “Make sure that your wax is the correct temperature and consistency so that
it spreads easily, which will ensure no burning or pulling of the skin. Do the treatment as fast and efficiently as possible to help make it less painful for the client,’ says Germshuys. “Also find out if the client is allergic to any main ingredients in your waxing product before you start your waxing treatment.” “The least amount of pain experienced is when the therapist applies wax to a
taut skin and removes it quickly, using the correct amount of support,” adds Van der Walt. “Don’t put apply pressure on the waxed area during strip waxing. Not only does it increase the time of the waxing treatment but it is completely unnecessary. Apply pressure after hot waxing only.” What are the advantages of waxing? • With regular treatments body and >
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HAIR REMOVAL
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facial hairs are greatly reduced; • The client only has to wax every 4-6 weeks; • The re-growth hairs become soft and refined. What are the disadvantages? • The time taken to grow the hairs for the next appointment can become annoying to some clients who prefer to be constantly hair-free; • People with a low pain threshold will find waxing uncomfortable. Who should not be waxed and why? • Some clients have severe allergies to beeswax and waxing can cause painful skin welts. This can be overcome by taking antihistamines before waxing; • Some clients suffer from severe ingrown hairs due to high oil content in the skin; • Toxins in the system can cause breakouts when a person is waxed; • Anyone who has sunburnt skin should avoid being waxed, as their skin is heat-sensitive and waxing the area could cause bruising; • Someone on medication, like cortisone or roaccutane, should also avoid being waxed, as their skin will be thinned out from the medication and waxing will lead to bruising or the skin being pulled off. How can you make waxing more cost-effective for your business? Kruger advises businesses not to cut costs when it comes to important areas, such as pre-and posttreatments and hygiene of treatment room, but rather to look at ways to avoid wastage. “This can be achieved through proper training, enabling the therapist to apply wax conservatively and correctly to avoid reapplying,” she says. “You should also make sure that the wax is at the correct temperature to ensure the application of wax is at the correct consistency.” In terms of business practice, she has the following to add: “Book appointments constructively to avoid unnecessary waste of time between appointments and work at the correct speed to avoid time loss. As we all know, time is money; and utilise the waxing time to retail after-care products to your client and to educate your customer on all the treatments you have to offer in the salon or spa.” Van der Walt recommends using a waxing roller system so that the wax is thinly and quickly applied and removed: “This saves time and wax for salons. Also, use a hot wax that does not have to be thickly applied so that it can be easily removed without waiting for a long time to dry.”
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SUGARING What is sugaring? “It is a gentle, 100% safe, hygienic and cost-effective hair removal process,” says Sandra Hunter of Brisan Distributors, which offers Alexandria body sugaring in South Africa. “The sugaring paste is formulated from natural ingredients, which are chemical-free and environmentfriendly. The very high sugar content of the paste being a natural preservative will not allow any bacteria to grow and will also provide an indefinite shelf life. This paste is also 100% water-soluble, therefore it cannot stain or tarnish clothing, towels, or equipment and is easy to clean up. Just use a damp cloth.” Do you need to prepare the skin before sugaring? “You need to use a specially formulated anti-microbial solution and calming lotion to cleanse the skin of any form of dirt, makeup, creams, or oils,” says Hunter. ”The skin is soothed and calmed, ensuring that the cuticles of the hair shaft are opened so that the sugar paste can easily and fully penetrate the hair follicle. “ How does the sugar paste remove the hair? “It is applied with a gloved hand and moulded against the direction of the hair growth at body temperature, so that it can effectively penetrate the hair follicle, totally surround and fully attach itself to the hair to be removed,” explains Hunter. “With a skilfully trained flick of the hand/wrist movement in the same direction of the hair growth, the hair together with any dead skin cells is totally removed without any breakage to it, or any form of damage or bruising to the skin.
TOP: The Alexandria Body Sugaring range of products, including preand post-care.
“The sugar paste together with the glove used is then carefully removed and totally disposed of, thus ensuring that no crosscontamination whatsoever occurs.”
ABOVE: Sugaring is gentle on the skin. With the right technique and minimal product use, hair can be effectively removed without damage and irritation.
Can it treat all skin and hair types? “All skin and hair types may be sugared; even fine thin vellus hair, stubborn, ingrown hair, sensitive skin and sufferers of diabetes and eczema may safely be sugared,” adds Hunter. What after-care is recommended? “The skin is finally treated with a hydrating and moisturising lotion and calming tonic, thus protecting the well-exfoliated hair-free skin, leaving it soft, smooth and hygienically healthy and clean,” says Hunter. “Regular hydration and exfoliation of the skin is recommended between treatments to maximise on the results.” Will sugaring damage hair or skin in any way? “Sugaring can never cause any damage to the skin, because it is natural, water-soluble, chemicalfree and is applied at body temperature so it does not attach to live skin cells,” says Hunter. “The end result will therefore be free from any burning, bruising, blistering, breakouts, tearing or allergic reactions.” PB
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PREGNANCY
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Embracing your
pregnant guest Pregnancy is a market all of us can be certain to come across at some point in our industry. Why then are we not turning our attention to these women, who truly deserve a salon or spa break at this time in their life? Meghan Less takes a closer look at this market.
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uring pregnancy our bodies and minds can undergo many changes, and, for most, the salon or spa is the last place we think we can go. Understanding our pregnant clients can better help us to cater to this unique and special woman.
UNDERSTAND YOUR GUEST Now let’s look at some key fundamentals that can be overlooked when welcoming your pregnant guest. Be twice as nice – one might say treating your pregnant guest is “twice” as special, because she is bringing another person into the world and deserves special care and treatment. Welcome these clients and make them feel 100% at ease. Make sure your therapists ooze confidence and enthusiasm. Ensure that your gowns are large enough to fit each guest. Advise your guest to wear comfortable nickers to the spa – don’t offer them disposable panties, they might not fit! Remember to give them bathroom breaks in between long treatments. Watch the scents that you use, some may be too overpowering. Include an indemnity section on your consultation cards for pregnancy-specific treatments. Finally, establish rapport. In all aspects of massage establishing rapport can either make or break the experience. Some pregnant woman can be more selfconscious or extra-sensitive, while others embrace the changes that are happening to their bodies. To better understand your pregnant guest here are some questions that may arise when she is booking for a treatment and some common changes she may experience. Each pregnancy is as different > as each client.
At Poise Brands we conducted a market research survey to determine what pregnant clients are looking for when visiting a salon or spa. We were pleasantly surprised by some of the responses: What would you consider paying for a spa package? Full-day package: R1300 Half-day package: R800 Is three hours too long for a treatment? No, it’s not too long. Would you prefer a full body massage or a full body massage, a pedi and a manicure? Full body massage, a pedi and a manicure.
Would you be interested in specialised treatments i.e. stretch mark treatments, water retention treatments? Yes, definitely. What would your concerns be? The distance between home and the salon or spa. Would you consider buying products to take home? Yes.
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PREGNANCY
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• I am in my first trimester of pregnancy, can I have a massage? It is not recommended. 85% of miscarriages occur in the first trimester of pregnancy, for a variety of reasons unrelated to salon and spa treatments. You can have a massage safely from the second trimester until your due date. Postpartum massage is also highly recommended soon after delivery to aid in the body’s recovery. • How often should I receive a massage when I am pregnant? Twice a month is recommended from the second trimester. This will help ease your body through some of the most common changes in pregnancy. It is highly recommended that only certified somatology and massage therapists perform these treatments as they are well versed in the science of massage and body treatments. • Are there any ingredients I should be avoiding in skincare and cosmetic products during pregnancy and nursing? We recommend avoiding cosmetics that contain ingredients like parabens, petroleum and sodium lauryl/laureth sulphate. The use of pregnancyapproved aromatherapy oils during treatments is of the utmost importance.
COMMON CONCERNS Body aches During pregnancy your client may feel aches and pains in her back, abdomen, groin area, and thighs. Many women also have backaches and aching near the pelvic bone due the pressure of the baby’s head, increased weight, and loosening joints. Some pregnant women complain of sciatic pain that runs from the lower back, down the back of one leg to the knee or foot. Pregnancy massage is a great way to ease some of these aches and pains, reduce tension, improve mood and promote better sleep.
Itching About 20% of pregnant women experience an itching sensation on the abdomen. Pregnancy hormones and stretching skin are to blame for most of the discomfort. Having products in the spa/salon that help to ease the ninemonth s-t-r-e-t-c-h are essential. I would highly recommend product ranges rich in Omegas also known as Essential Fatty Acids, these ingredients aid the skin in its major stretch (we can stretch up to a metre) through pregnancy. Omegas are readily accepted by the skin and reach the dermis, giving it the support it needs while growing, leaving a soft, supple, more hydrated skin.
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“When people say maternity is a niche market, I always respond with a huge smile and say ‘it’s not very niche – do you have a mother?” anya Mackay, one of the founding partners of Mama Mio Skincare.
Stretch marks About 95% of pregnant woman will experience stretch marks during pregnancy. These scars are caused by the stretching and tearing of the skin from the dermis, and usually appear on the tummy, breast and buttocks in the second half of pregnancy, through the final stages and post-pregnancy. Again, having products rich in EFAs will aid her skin and help to dramatically reduce or even prevent stretch marks during pregnancy. It is recommended that these products be used from the start of her pregnancy and continue for four months after giving birth to allow her skin to shrink back to its original shape.
Leg cramps and oedema At different times during pregnancy, she might have sudden muscle spasms in her legs or feet. This is due to a change in the way the body processes calcium. Oedema is also common, as blood volume and interstitial fluid (liquid found between cells of the body) is increasing through the pregnancy. Having pregnancy-specific lower leg treatments available will aid in easing any cramping, swelling or water retention and will help stimulate
circulation. Pedicures are also a great help. Be cautious not to over-stimulate pressure points in areas like ovaries and the uterus, as this may cause contractions. Blood clots faster during pregnancy so please be cautious of DVT (deep vein thrombosis) while performing these treatments.
Nasal problems Nasal congestion is common during pregnancy caused by the increased amount of blood in your body and hormones acting on the tissues of your nose. We would recommend using left and right lateral lie and a semi-reclined position for their massage and body treatments. This will help reduce sinus congestion during her treatment. A standard massage plinth with a head that can be raised can be used when propping in the lateral and semireclined positions, thus eliminating the cost of having to invest in pregnancy-specific beds or chairs. Caring for your pregnant guests through this very special time may ensure that you have a client for life. Don’t forget those babies grow up quickly, and could also be gracing your facility sooner than you know! PB
Meghan has been in the industry for almost 13 years, with the majority of her career in America working in top spas and as a trainer for international brands. She is the Head of Education for Poise Brands, which holds the sole distribution for Mama Mio Skincare for South and sub Saharan Africa.
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Inspired by the Power of Nature Bio Sculpture速 Spa products promote and maintain your natural beauty through the blending of carefully selected botanicals with highly effective vitamins and antioxidants. Using the natural ability of plants and fruits to retain moisture, creates in turn, ideal moisturizing products that deliver essential nourishment for exceptional skincare For reference to your nearest spa that offers Bio Sculpture Nails call
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PEDICURES
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Deluxe pedicure Two hours plus later, and feeling super-pampered, I slip my feet back into my sensible shoes and return to reality. Ursula Wong shares her experience of Bio Sculpture's Deluxe Pedicure.
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flexible, which allows movement with the nail and therefore acts as a natural protective barrier.
couldn’t believe it when, to start my busy day, I was requested to go for a pedicure and told that it would take about two hours! I thought: “Why on earth will it take so long for a pedicure, I’ve had full body massages that were shorter!” Curiouser and curiouser, I thought, while I headed off to meet Tania Oliver, owner and educator of Gauteng’s West Rand Bio Sculpture Salon.
Pamper indulgence
Gel time A light rinsing of the feet begins this luxurious experience. A sprinkle of Potpourri Aqua Soak added to the water releases a burst of relaxing scent and sets the scene for a aromatherapeutic pedicure. Therapist, Marina Breed, points out that the gel overlay is done in the beginning because some of the treatment products contain oils which will inhibit the curing process and may cause the gel to lift, Feet prepared, I was told to get comfy on the specially prepared bed, sporting a strategically placed lower back support. Let me remind you: two hours of sitting is not really my idea of relaxing. Bio Sculpture Cuticle Remover is applied, and, while it works its magic, filing and shaping of the nails takes place. "Careful preparation is vital to prepare a good smooth surface onto which the gel can adhere properly," says Tania. A cuticle nipper and pusher may be used to neaten up, but no cutting/tearing of the cuticles should ever be done as this leads to damage and possible infection. Good hygiene is always foremost in mind and the Anti-Fungal Pre-treatment is sprayed before and during nail preparation as a preventative measure. This attention to foot health is carried through, and so, usually around six weeks later, after nail growth has taken place, it is not recommended to fill in the growth gap. This, I am emphatically told, does not lend itself to correct preparation and sealing of the nail, and leads to a frightening prospect of fungi, contact dermatitis and other maladies. “A soak with Gel Remover will remove the overlay in 20 minutes and does not damage the nail plate,” informs Tania. Treatment of the nails continues with an application of Executive Base. This toluene- and formaldehyde-free formula is a multi-functional conditioning base
coat that will condition, strengthen and add nutrients and vitamins while helping polish to chip less. The base is carefully prepared so there are no air bubbles, and evenly applied to ensure that, when colour is painted on, it goes on smoothly. I note that a steady hand is required to ensure the front and sides of the nail are also sealed, and that the toes are not accidentally painted. “Apply in thin layers on the cuticle area and it will avoid the characteristic bump or thickness as the nail grows out,” says Marina. This base is UV light-cured for two minutes. However, new LED technology and product is available to greatly shorten this process to a mere 30 seconds. “It is imperative to store the gels away from light, which will activate it, so a cool, dark cupboard is preferred, and always ensure that the pot is clean on the sides to get airtight closure,” advises Marina. Available in 4,5g, 10g, and 25g, these sizes allow businesses to buy according to client demand and ensures the integrity of the product. After the base is UV-cured, colour gel is applied in two layers to get to the true colour. A final UV gel is applied on top of the colour coat and cured. Dual Cleanse is then used with a nail wipe to remove all remaining stickiness and reveal shiny armour-plated nails. The gels are completely breathable and remain
The feet are now immersed for about five minutes in Aquasoak to nourish and prepare the skin to better receive the benefit of exfoliation using the doublesided Bio Sculpture foot file. One side is for exfoliating and the other to close the skin. Water is used to moisten the file and also reduce friction so there is no burn or damage to the undersides of the feet. There is a choice of two scrubs: Apricot Kernel for a fine scrub, and Poutpourri salt scrub for drier and harder skin. After removal of the scrub with a soft damp towel, Mint Heel Balm is applied and Mint Mask painted over the soles. Encapsulated in a thin plastic layer and kept warm in booties to encourage circulation, the feet are left to luxuriate for about ten minutes. This helps to treat painful joints, swelling and water retention, Two options of massage are offered – a gentle soothing one, or pressure-pointspecific. In addition, there is a choice of two creams – an extra-nourishing Hand and Body Butter, or a Hand and Body Lotion for skin that is not too dry. An advantage is that the latter is not too slippery and, if the client is wearing open shoes, a better option. So, after passing a couple of hours in feet heaven, I sadly had to get back to reality. However, I have to note that a real benefit for me is that the gel is completely odourless, has no fumes and is tolerated by sensitive asthmatics like myself. With a Certificate of Safety, Bio Sculpture products are deemed safe for use when clients are pregnant and are suitable for people with poor circulation, such as diabetics and cancer patients. PB
Contact: Bio Sculpture on 0861 246435 or email info@biosculpture.com
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Foot renewal Slingback sandals, open flats and bare-foot – for feet to look fabulous, dry, cracked heels and callouses need to be kept at bay. Sally Harvey puts Milk Solutions to the test.
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ith small kids to take care of, including my husband, there is never much time to pamper and preen. During the summer months my heels really take a knock. Exposed to environmental aggressors and lack of moisture, they start to look like the parched earth – dry, rough, coarse and cracked. I was interested to see how Milk Solutions was going to miraculously transform my neglected hooves into feet fit for the glass slipper! The Heel Peel solution contains active ingredient sodium hydroxide, which is pure alkaline, effectively dissolving the protein bonds that hold the dead skin cells together – so no more elbow grease for the therapist; with minimal filing the loosened skin comes off with ease. Just 10 minutes after the application of product to targeted areas of rough skin and callouses, the therapist can remove it with a spatula. I must say, I was embarrassed by the amount of ingrained dirt that was taken off with the product – I do wash my feet, I promise! Next, after a quick file, I needed to soak my feet in Milk Soak Therapy, an anti-bacterial mixture with lavender, chamomile rose oil, mint and tea tree oil. This product also contains bicarbonate of soda, which is needed to neutralise the Heel Peel. Therefore, if you just want to introduce the Heel Peel into your existing pedicure line, you can do so, but remember you need a soak that contains this neutralising ingredient. Then, my feet were towel-dried, and the cuticle remover applied, containing AHAs to remove and nourish unwanted cuticles without any fuss or damage to the surrounding skin. The Exfoliating Cream is applied to moisturise and remove the final debris, followed by the Milk Softening lotion with hydrating honey and milk extract and softening fruit acids to gently exfoliate rough skin. And, there you have it, soft, smooth, healthy pink skin is revealed – babysoft and beautiful. In terms of the product ranges,
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I experienced the original Milk and Honey offering. The philosophy behind the use of these ingredients stems from the healing and antibacterial properties of honey and the exfoliating action of milk. Milk Solutions also features two fruit ranges, one rich in the anti-oxidative benefits of pomegranate and grapefruit, and the other the hydrating qualities of soya milk and quince. A new natural range with fresh, fun ingredients is soon to be launched, so watch this space. The Heel Peel is not recommended for diabetics or anyone who has open wounds or seriously cut-open cracked heels. This does not, however, stop these clients from still experiencing the rest of the Milk Solutions pedicure treatment. To enhance and maintain the pedicure result, home care is a must. Milk Solutions offers a homecare pack which contains all the essential products to use. This pack can also be sold to the salon and spa in professional sizes as an
introduction to the range. For best results, the clients need to continue to file their feet for two weeks post-treatment, as dead skin cells still need to be removed. What is great is that this product is produced locally, keeping costs lower for greater profits, but not cutting back on the quality of product, and I can vouch for that. PB
Contact: Spa & Salon Solutions on 011-784 0376 or email: sales@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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The Journey foot ritual I walked back into the office, lamenting the fact that I had to cover my beautiful toes and silky smooth feeling legs. My feet hadn’t felt this loved and pampered in a very long time. Sally-Jane Nkomo elaborates on her Journey foot ritual from Sparitual.
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dashed into the Rain Urban Boutique Spa, leaving behind the hustle and bustle of the concrete jungle, and was greeted with smiling faces and an almost serene ambience. My therapist Louise Pitot asked: “How long has it been since your last pedicure treatment?” Amazingly enough I couldn’t remember. Realisation hit me as I pondered to myself what the exact state my feet. As if to read my mind, and with a pleasant smile on her face, Louise reassured me that after the pedicure treatment I would have happy feet. As I placed my bag down and slipped off my shoes I was advised to relax as I placed my feet in the pleasantly warm water. Lemon water with raw nuts and seeds were offered. My Journey was about to begin. Louise commenced by spritzing the room with Infinitely Wise Fragrant Mist which contains lavender. I proceeded to pick the lacquer colour from the vast selection displayed before me. Each colour has a message attached to it, which I found quite interesting. The lacquer I chose was Rusted Lux and my message read as follows: “Create your own story. Fill the pages of life with emotion. Feel...” The intention was for me to relax as much as possible, so Sparitual's Close Your Eyes range with Egyptian geranium fragrance was used. My feet were soaked in a bowl of warm water with Close Your Eyes Soak Tonic to soften the water and prep the skin. Organic 21 Mineral Salts were applied to the skin. The toe nails and cuticles were treated using Cuti-Clean to remove excess cuticles and Cuti-Cocktail to hydrate the cuticles. Ever so gently my nails were cut and filed. While involving me in conversation Louise used Open-minded Organic sugar scrub on the legs and feet. The product is infused with lavender. This procedure hydrates and removes dry and dead skin, leaving the legs and feet looking bright and glowing. Organic Sugar Scrub with essential oil
Despite concentrating on the feet, this holistic treatment affects the entire body’s well-being. gently exfoliates in preparation for a polishing and hydrating masque. Affirming Scrub Masque was applied to the legs and feet and left on for 5-10 minutes. The masque refines, increases circulation and brightens the skin. Product was removed with hot towels and what followed was a wonderful massage performed using hot stones and hands. Products used were Close Your Eyes Organic Moisturising Lotion mixed with Close Your Eyes oil. Next the nails were cleaned and prepped for painting using Visionary Cleanser and Fluent Lacquer Remover. Interestingly enough the acetone is derived from sugar cane and leaves the skin feeling hydrated with a fresh aroma of Italian red mandarin. The SpaRitual Truebond system was used to ensure a long-lasting paint. First the primer, then base coat was applied, then two coats of lacquer and the Truebond top coat. Andale dry and shine drops finished the treatment off. Finally, my aromatherapeutic journey came to a blissful closure with a calming massage using a
hydrating blend of organic aloe, Shea butter, sesame oil, olive oil, avocado and Vitamins A and E. Despite concentrating on the feet, this holistic treatment affected the entire body’s well-being. Were my feet happy? Indeed they were. To ensure that my beautiful nails were dry, I was offered another glass of lemon water to relax and unwind, giving me a few more minutes to ready myself mentally for the long day ahead of me. All products used in the treatment are natural and organic products and smell absolutely divine. During each application or usage of product Louise ensured that I smelt the scent. I must say I left there having stimulated all my senses of touch, taste, feel, sight and smell - a truly holistic experience. PB
Contact: Logica Beauty Supplies on 021 552 6999 or email: info@logicabeauty.com
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Healthy feet Feet are constantly called upon but all too often neglected. This leads to a number of problems and concerns. Sally Harvey gets to experience the Ericson Laboratoire solution to healthier, more beautiful feet
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lthough the skin on the feet is naturally thicker, it is no less sensitive. Poorly moisturised and irritated, it can become dry or even damaged. This does not only cause the feet to look unattractive, but also leads to health concerns, as dryness of the feet can eventually lead to sites of pressure, itching and painful irritation. Sometimes the skin even chaps, fissures and cracks. On the metabolic front, damaged skin results in an epidermal imbalance, and one of the main causes of this imbalance is the disorder of the desquamation process. This is where the Ericson Pedicare treatment combines synergistic complexes of active ingredients in its formulations to address this imbalance, along with conditions such as athlete’s foot and swelling feet. Its research department selected Prozymex HBT LS 9142, a powerful complex of highly stabilised proteases (enzymes), produced in the laboratory, perfectly matching the pH of the skin that accelerate the natural process
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of removing the upper layers of the epidermis. It therefore exerts a strong keraltolytic action (peel off action) on hard skin and accelerates cell renewal. The treatments also includes an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial agent – Evosina NA2GP – a salt of Usnic acid from Iceland moss to provide overall foot care and protection, recovering the balance of the microbial flora of the foot.
At the end of the treatment, my feet felt deeply hydrated and soft. Cracks were repaired and skin tone was far smoother and even to the touch. For me this treatment had a the luxury and pampering benefits of a pedicure combined with visible results of improved skin health and beauty. PB
Contact: Ericson Laboratoire SA 072 302 2879 or email: tatianas@telkomsa.net
FACIAL THERAPY. PROFESSIONAL PROTOCOLE
ACTI-BIOTIC
ANTI-HORMONAL TREATMENT AND ANTIBIOTIC TREATMENT OF COMBINATION, OILY AND ACNE-PRONE SKIN Stimulation of the skin’s natural antibiotics, Androgenic hormone regulation, Skin detoxification, Seborrhoeic regulation, Matifying effect on shiny skin.
ERICSON LABORATOIRE ERICSON LABORATOIRE SOUTH AFRICA 011 783 9817 / 072 302 2879 www.ericson-laboratoire.com
Imagine over two weeks with no chipping, no peeling, no cracking. Imagine reaching into your purse for your car keys seconds after the final coat without a dent or a smudge. Imagine a finish that’s as shiny at day fourteen as it is at day one. mani•Q color gives you all that, and then some. CALL US TODAY FOR THE • Soaks off quickly and easily. • No damage to the natural nail when removed by a DISTRIBUTORS NUMBER IN YOUR AREA professional nail technician. • Awesome colors to choose, from neon to classic to fashion-forward. YOUNG NAILS HEAD OFFICE • Protects natural nail from chipping and breaking. • After two weeks, mani•Q can be “filled.” Complete removal is not required. 011 393 2791/2
For more information on distribution opportunities visit us at: Shop 4 1st floor 222 Brickfield Road Overport Durban Tel: (031) 207 3844 or contact Ayesha: 071 146 8393 Rookaya: 082 775 7786
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Professional versus retail
Why would someone go for a professional nail treatment rather than the DIY route? Sonette van Rensburg highlights the differences and benefits.
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eciding between professional and retail depends on a number of factors. It could be a matter of affordability, time or perhaps even location. However, with this in mind, most women still prefer to rather go the professional route and not compromise on quality. It all begins with understanding the importance, value and difference between investing in a professional service and product as opposed to doing it yourself. Nowadays salons are offering not only professional hand, foot and nail services, but also professional >
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high-end quality products backed by professional recommendations and home-care advice. Most wellknown, professional product brands offer everything a salon and nail professional requires, from a full complement of professional and retail product lines to professional quality services, as well as the necessary education and marketing support. There is no doubt that any woman would like the opportunity to try the products they are interested in before purchasing them, therefore having professional services performed using these products is the ideal opportunity. It also offers them the necessary knowhow about taking care of, and maintaining, the longevity of their service, giving them complete customer satisfaction and extending the promise of complete beauty for their hands, feet and nails. Yvette Nel, educator for LCN, is, however, concerned with the lack of retailing within the professional segment of this market: “It often blows my mind when I visit salons across the country and I see how many “selling” opportunities are being missed. I observe how they talk and work with their clients and what products they have for use or trial in the salon or spa. Besides the fact that most of the nail stylists or therapists very often talk themselves in and out of a sale, the salons usually only have product to use, which they don’t sell. “My motto is – if you do not sell it, do not use it. If you use nail oil, hand cream, scrub and all the other products from the retail stores, your client will walk right out of the door to go buy that product elsewhere – so wake up and smell the profit and commission you are missing out on. “A professional salon product for hands, nails and feet should have brilliant home-care products for your clients. Your duty as professional nail stylist or therapist is not only to know everything there is to know about the range you stock, but also to have the products in places where your clients can get to experience them. For example, the basin where your clients wash their hands is the ideal place to present your professional hand wash – not the retail store’s hand wash, which you cannot sell. Also, do not neglect to have testers available on shelf for your client’s convenience.
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Professional benefits What are the benefits to a client visiting a salon which is offering professional services, using high-end product lines and retailing quality products? ❤ Professional services linked with professional high-end, quality home-care products; ❤ A proper consultation to ensure the client benefits from the correct service prescription and product type; ❤ Professional support and expert advice on nails, such as proper home-care maintenance and grooming; the latest nail, colour and fashion trends; and the identification and explanation of nail conditions, diseases and disorders.
“I am a firm believer in client education – if you educate your clients about what makes your product so spectacular they will end up making the right choice and buy from you. You also need to explain to your client that the higher the quality of raw materials present the more expensive the products will be. It might be that the retail store ranges contains some of the same active ingredients – but definitely not the same quality or quantity of those raw materials are used. Basically you get what you pay for. “Lastly with the use of professional products, the consumer will see guaranteed results within two weeks – lasting results. Of course, the nail stylist’s knowledge about the range and the correct usage recommendation is an added benefit, whereas in retail stores the customers merely go on smell and feel of the products, not knowing whether it will give them the
solution they desire – if we don’t help they might never get the desired result. Use your experience and expertise – it will only make your client more tied to your professionalism and want to return for more.”
Communication Communication between you and your client is imperative and must be a two-way conversation, which should consist of asking questions and listening carefully. Use different types of questions to establish information, and ask pertinent and specific questions to establish your client’s needs and requirements. Make sure that during the service you communicate with your client and educate them about a special homecare programme on how to maintain the service and get the most from the treatment and product being > purchased.
the nail stylist’s knowledge about the range and the correct usage recommendation is an added benefit, whereas in retail stores the customers merely go on smell and feel of the products, not knowing whether it will give them the solution they desire. 60
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Remember that, through listening and educating your client and providing proper and useful information that will assist them in maintaining the longevity of the service, you will ultimately build trust and rapport with your clients, creating loyalty and repeat business, as well as creating growth through word of mouth.
Consultation Consultation is a very important first step in helping the nail stylist assess the client and prescribe the correct service and product combination according to his or her needs. It is also the first step towards selling your client the correct and most appropriate products. Consultation is also a sure way of keeping a record of what your client’s fashion preferences are, all services the client comes in for and the products she purchases. It also allows you to follow up and determine when they would require the next service and when they could run out of a homecare product – so be sure to keep the client record system updated with every service. Once you have obtained all the necessary criteria from the client, make sure you explain the services which are available to them, as well as the various different options. It is important that your client agrees and understands what service you will be performing to avoid any disappointment afterwards.
Recommendations Make recommendations regarding: • The service – If they are not sure what they would like make a suggestion. • Add-on services – recommend additional services, if need be to ensure a better result. • Charging – Be sure to discuss any additional costs the client may incur if an add-on service is required, so as to avoid surprises.
Expectations Tell your client what to expect from the service: Explain how long the service could last and what to expect, such as possible problems which could occur if a maintenance programme is not followed. During the consultation process, explain how to manage any situations, and, should your client have any specific questions for you, make sure you are able to answer them to put her at ease. Remember never to over-promise and under-deliver, but rather under-promise and over-deliver – if you do, your client will think you are amazing. PB
Sonette has been in the nail and beauty industry for 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
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Maintaining nail enhancements ❤ Always follow up after your client’s first-time appointment with a phone call 7- 10 days later to make sure everything is going well with the service provided. ❤ Follow-up appointments are necessary to avoid any problems. Let your clients pre-book them in advance. Do follow-ups and call the client once in a while, especially if you have not heard from them. ❤ Advise and recommend that your client use home-care products, such as cuticle cream and nail oil, regularly, especially within the first 48 hours (at least 6-8 times) as this will toughen and strengthen the enhancement, as well as keep the skin and living tissue surrounding the nail plate supple and healthy. ❤ Suggest that your client use hand lotions and creams regularly, and wear gloves when using household detergents to protect the client’s hands from the daily rigours of housework and environmental damage. ❤ Recommend a wearable and reasonable length that suits your client’s lifestyle.
❤ It is not recommended that she should change her nail enamel too often, as this will only expose her to any lifting or cracking, and, if she starts picking and filing, this will only give you more work to do when she comes back for a rebalance. ❤ Advise her not to clip, pick or bite the nail enhancement; this will only lead to cracks or more serious problems. ❤ Make her comfortable enough and show her that she is able to rely on you, and that she can call at any time should anything go wrong, and that you will be able to accommodate her and attend to the problem. ❤ Advise your client not to use her nails as tools. Although they may be stronger and more durable than her natural nails, it does not mean that they must be abused or used in the incorrect way. ❤ Recommend that the client continue to have treatments done, such as paraffin, deluxe or spa manicures. This will maintain the nails and keep the skin in a good condition, ensuring that they are well-hydrated and moisturised.
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Hidden secrets Eyes let us know when we are tired, unhappy or exhilarated. They are the first to show our human expression, and the first to show our age. Professional Beauty showcases corrective eye care to disguise what need not be revealed. Coverderm Peptumax Yeux is a triple-action anti-wrinkle eye product with a cream-gel texture. The combination of bio-mimicking peptides prevents and reduces lines and wrinkles while phytosphigosine offers an effective anti-inflammatory action on the skin. 012 460 1220
Priori Coffeeberry Radiance Eye Serum is a natural formulation fortified with potent antioxidant Coffeeberry extract to fight free radicals and the causes of skin ageing. Reducing lines and wrinkles, it also reduces dark circles and puffiness, tightens and lightens, and features light-diffusing, moisturising and calming properties. 011 486 4904
CSpa Age Defying Eye Cream features a blend of essential oils, such as myrrh, frankincense, jojoba and rose to address ageing around the eye area. This product can be used on all skin types and by all ages. 011 880 3850
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Naturys Emulsion For Eyes and Lips Contour contains pure extracts of Arctic Cloudberry, a potent anti-ageing ingredient rich in essential fatty acids, Vitamin A and antioxidants to encourage skin regeneration and protection from free radicals. Additional ingredients boost circulation, drain and treat puffiness under the eyes and stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. 083 954 7695
RegimA Eye Lid Lift Platinum Collection contains a potent cocktail of peptides to instantly lift and smooth delicate eyelid tissue, while reducing the appearance of fine lines. Platinum nanotechnology allows for the improved penetration and controlled release of actives to help rebuild the compromised aspects of ageing skin. 011 615 2869
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Thalgo Collagen Eye Roll-on creates an ice cube effect with three metal massaging balls. This roll-on technology promotes the drainage mechanism and lymph circulation with controlled and precise application. Key ingredients decongest, smooth small and dehydration wrinkles, lighten and reduce puffiness and dark circles. 011 880 3850
QMS Medicosmetics Cellular Alpine is based on technology derived from Alpine Rose stem cells which protects the sensitive area around the eyes, enhances the stimulation of new skin cells, increases skin stem cell vitality and improves the skin’s metabolism. Fine lines, wrinkles and light swellings are thus reduced. 011 022 1658
Pevonia Lumafirm Lift & Glow Eye Contour is formulated with diacetyl boldine and sorghum with advanced delivery systems to firm and lift the eye contour, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and lighten pigmentation. This product is also deeply hydrating and healing with powerful antioxidant action. 011 314 2799
Gatineau Melatogenine AOX Eye Cream targets ageing by slowing down the keratinisation process. It combines powerful antioxidants and natural probiotics to protect the skin, creating an anti-ageing shield against environmental aggressors. This protection also aids the effectiveness of the formulation’s patented melatogeneine molecule. 021 701 2900
The Phytomer Youth Contour Reviving Wrinkle Correction Cream Eye and Lip Care treatment contains three actives that work together for triple correction: dilsea carnosa (red algae) to address wrinkles; chlorella vulgaris (green algae) for puffiness; and delesseria sanguinea (red algae) to target dark circles. 011 486 4904
Soaked in a gel complex, Ericsson Laboratoire’s Bioptic Twin-patch is an instant beauty treatment for the eye zone. It decongests puffiness due to the draining action of plant extracts; reduces dark circles, fills fine dehydration lines and protects the area around the eye from premature ageing. 072 302 2879
DermaFix CircleLight lightens dark circles under the eye area. A 24% concentration of peptides helps to prevent and fight bags under the eyes and increase peripheral circulation. This product is also has a smoothing effect on the eye contour, targeting fine lines and preventing freeradical damage. 011 704 5444
Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals Biorestore contains a concentrated percentage of 10-hexapeptide targeted at diminishing deep wrinkles and expression lines. This slow-releasing cocktail of antioxidants encourages the platting of new collagen and elastin strands. By stimulating the production of healthy collagen, it is also beneficial for scarring, imperfections, thinning skin and broken capillaries. 011 784 2422
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Non-surgical anti-ageing
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MEDICAL AESTHETICS
Consumers are becoming more informed about the rejuvenating benefits of non-surgical antiageing procedures. Karen Ellithorne looks at what is on offer and what results one can expect to achieve.
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ver the last few years the desire for invasive plastic surgery has slowly starting to decline, with most patients opting for more non-surgical, anti-ageing procedures. This is due to the fact that consumers are becoming more educated about non-invasive procedures and the rejuvenating benefits that can be achieved from having these types of treatments on a regular basis. The beauty of rejuvenating treatments is that quite dramatic results can be achieved, with minimum downtime.
Ageing skin The rate at which we age is predetermined genetically and this is referred to as chronological ageing. However, 95% of the ageing that occurs on the skin is due to free radical damage from exposure to UV light. Other extrinsic factors include: exposure to pollution, diet, medication and lifestyle. What generally occurs in the skin as we age is a decrease in the functioning of the micro-circulatory system. This leads to the general breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermal layer, which results in sagging and wrinkles. Collagen and elastin are responsible for the support structure of the skin, and, as the process of the formation of new cells slows down, the skin loses its elasticity and tone, and fine lines and wrinkles slowly start to appear. Due to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, the skin’s ability to produce fresh hyaluronic acid is dramatically reduced, and, without this vital polysaccharide, the skin loses its plump, sponge-like, youthful appearance. The main aim with rejuvenating treatments is to keep the skin functioning at its optimum level. This is achieved by imparting different levels of wounding to the skin with the aim of getting the skin to speed up its own natural healing process. The general rule is – the deeper the wounding the stronger the regenerating effect.
Advanced skin diagnosis The types of treatments offered within medical aesthetic centres are advanced and result-driven. Some centres offer an advanced skin diagnosis before they put together the rejuvenating treatment protocol that would be prescribed for the patient. This is a great way to monitor the patient’s treatment results. This diagnosis is generally done using an in-depth multi-spectral imaging scan that analyses the skin to capture key visual information. The areas of the skin that are most often assessed are the complexion and appearance, with particular reference to wrinkles, spots, pores, texture, evidence of bacteria in pores, and UV spots (characteristic of photo damage, typically from overexposure to sun). Additionally, this type of equipment also gives the customer a varied informative comparison of his or her complexion characteristics in comparison to others of the same age and skin type. This comprehensive information enables the skincare professional to present the optimal treatments and home care, which will assist the patient in achieving the most > dramatic results.
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Specific treatments
Ageing effects Non-invasive medical aesthetic treatments can be used to treat most types of ageing conditions found on the face, hands and body namely: • Static wrinkles – these wrinkles that are always visible. They do not change in appearance with facial movements, and normally indicate dermal damage. • Dynamic wrinkles – these are expression lines that may appear as folds when the skin is not moving, and deepen with facial movements or expressions. They are usually found when elastin starts declining • Pigmentation – freckles, sun spots, melasma, or other darkened patches of skin, resulting mainly from sun exposure or from hormonal fluctuations. Pigmentation is a tricky condition to treat. It is important to advise your patients that this condition can be managed and improved, as opposed to being permanently cured. • Scars – as the result of acne or injury to the skin, scars may be pitted, discoloured, or have raised borders. As a person ages the skin’s ability to repair itself slows down, exacerbating the problem even further. • Vascular conditions – blood vessels visible on the surface of the skin, vascular lesions that appear as tiny blood-filled blisters or even a constant flush of facial redness. • Loss of skin tone – weakening of the supportive skin structure (collagen and elastin fibres) results in a loss of skin firmness. The first breakdown of elastin fibres starts to occur at the age of 25 years. Elastin is responsible for
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the horizontal stretch of the skin, while collagen is responsible for the vertical support of the facial structure. • Enlarged pores – even though a skin may no longer be oily, enlarged pores may still be present on a more mature skin. This results in a skin with a course, rough texture. • Hyperkeratosis – a young healthy person’s skin generally renews itself every 28 days. However, as a person ages, the cell turnover of the epidermis slows down to a cycle of about 45 – 60 days, leaving the skin tone looking sluggish and dull. Treatment of skin with hyperkeratosis is extremely difficult, due to a thickened barrier limiting the effective penetration of product. • Water loss – by the age of 45 years the quantity of hyaluronic acid in the dermal layer is just about completely depleted. This leads to a loss of firmness and suppleness in the skin and subsequently trans-epidermal water loss leading to dehydration of the epidermis. • Adult acne – this is a phenomenon that is continually growing. It is caused by many factors of today’s modern lifestyles. As we age, our skin’s ability to repair itself slows down and this leads to comedones and pustules taking a much longer time to heal, resulting in scars, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and excoriated lesions.
If you want to rejuvenate and improve any of the conditions mentioned on the left, this can be achieved in a number of non-invasive ways, ranging from laser resurfacing, chemical peels, and cosmeceuticals to micro-needling and injectables. Let’s take a look at some of the more common treatments available for skin rejuvenation and look at what they are best suited for: MICRO-NEEDLING Micro-needling or Collagen Induction therapy (CIT) is a technique whereby spaced wounding is imparted on the surface of the skin with the aim of rejuvenating the skin. The beauty of micro-needling is that the epidermis is left intact and there is minimum downtime post-treatment. Temporary channels are opened up in the skin and active products can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. Micro-needling can be very useful to treat many different skin conditions, such as ageing, rough texture, acne scarring, and stretch marks. CHEMICAL PEEL Chemical peel uses a chemical solution to impart a burn wound on the surface of the epidermis with the aim of partially destroying the epidermis. A superficial peel works in much the same way as the natural process of desquamation takes place in the skin, gently sloughing off dead skin cells. A peel can remove several layers of sundamaged skin cells and break up areas of hyperpigmentation, leaving fresh skin which has a more even surface and colour. A medium-depth peel can stimulate the formation of new collagen thus improving skin texture. Peeling may result in superficial, moderate depth or deep skin injury, depending on the type of formulation that is being used. The common ingredients used for this purpose are generally phenol, trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). The precise formula used may be adjusted to meet each patient’s needs. In terms of efficacy and results, it is vitally important to look at the peel’s pH - the lower the pH the stronger the peeling solution’s effect is going to be. Chemical peels can be >
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MEDICAL AESTHETICS
BOTULINUM TOXIN Botulinum toxin acts to temporarily paralyse the muscles, therefore minimising or eliminating unwanted lines and wrinkles with an almost immediate result. Botulinum Toxin Type A is what is commonly referred to as Botox and is currently the only Botox registered for aesthetic indications in South Africa. However having mentioned this does not mean that any other form of Botulinum toxin Type A is not available or effective in treating wrinkles and lines. Dysport is another choice for medical aesthetic practitioners that is regularly used and widely accepted, it just cannot be promoted for cosmetic procedures.
very helpful for treating a whole host of skin conditions and are relatively inexpensive to perform. MESOTHERAPY Mesotherapy is a procedure that involves superficial multi-puncture injections that inject hyaluronic acid back into the skin to help smooth and plump the skin. Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that is present in most human tissues, namely the skin, bone, cartilage, synovial fluid, eyes, muscles etc. In the skin, hyaluronic acid is generally found on the extracellular matrix and is responsible for the maintenance of the structure and plumpness of the skin. It is also responsible for the transport of water and nutrients in the skin and helps to attract nutrients. Hyaluronic acid is a skin protector and also a strong antioxidant. As we age the levels of hyaluronic acid slowly decline. The multi-puncture injections will also help to boost the hyaluronic acid levels that are found naturally within the skin and therefore will be a very useful treatment for dry, dehydrated and ageing skins. The “vampire facial” just recently made famous in the tabloids by Kim Kardashian is another type of mesotherapy that is currently being offered for rejuvenation by medical aesthetic practitioners. This is a skin rejuvenation treatment whereby stem cells are extracted from your blood and applied to the area where regeneration is required, using a mesotherapy technique. As the stem cells have the ability to take on the form of the cells that surround them and become many different types of skin cells, such as fibroblasts and melanocytes, they therefore assist in wound-healing and the development of firmer, younger skin. Today, platelet-rich plasma can easily be separated from blood through a process of centrifugation. Using the enriched plasma will enable the body to heal faster and more efficiently. The treatment stimulates the skin’s own self repair mechanisms and therefore will assist the patient in achieving a longer-lasting result. The results following a PRP treatment are usually visible three weeks posttreatment. NEEDLE-FREE MESOTHERAPY Another form of mesotherapy is needless mesotherapy whereby products are penetrated into the skin by means of an electrical current, namely sonophoresis or electroporation. This
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online at www.probeauty.co.za
The rate at which we age is predetermined genetically and this is referred to as chronological ageing.
type of technology creates a form of kinetic energy which temporarily disrupts the bilateral layer of the stratum corneum to enable larger molecules to penetrate into the skin. The types of ingredients that are good to use with needless mesotherapy are growth factors, Vitamin C, peptides, and hyaluronic acid. DERMAL FILLERS Fillers are generally used to fill static wrinkles and to plump up the volume of the facial contour. The more popular HA fillers currently used are from a non-animal source, and are formulated in a laboratory with the process of bacterial fermentation. Dermal fillers are either stabilised and or crosslinked to help improve the durability and long-lasting results of the product. With the new modern HA fillers it is no longer necessary to be concerned about allergy testing prior to treatment and treatment results should last anything from 6- 12 months. Thereafter the filler will start to lose its effect and break down by the process of natural biodegradation.
LASERS Lasers are used to impart degrees of burn to the skin in order to instigate skin resurfacing – the skin’s natural healing response – and consequently skin regeneration. Laser treatments can be separated into ablative and non-ablative treatments, depending on the type of equipment being used to perform the treatment and also what the laser technician is trying to achieve from the session. The new fraxel lasers inflict a spaced wounding to the surface of the skin which gives the skin a better chance for a faster and effective healing. Lasers can be used to completely renew the epidermis and trigger a healing response within the deeper layers of the skin to regenerate dermal tissue, assist with reducing scars, diffusing facial redness, and target hyperpigmentation. SKIN FIRMING TREATMENTS For many years the best way to treat loose, flaccid, skin was surgically, but thanks to the development of constant new technologies, loose skin, due to loss of elasticity and tone, can now also be treated non-invasively through the use of radio frequency, laser and infra-red. How the equipment generally works is that the heat generated from the equipment warms up the water within the skin, causing the surrounding collagen to contract and tighten. The body’s own healing processes then start to produce new collagen to further tighten the appearance of the skin. Results improve dramatically in the months following the treatment, due to this collagen-tightening effect. PB
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions and Aesthetimed. In conjunction with Sally Durant Training and Consultancy UK, she also offers a range of internationally certified training courses, specifically for aesthetic practitioners, beauty therapists and nurses. Email: Karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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PRODUCT NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations.
Easy on easy off
Dare to defy
CND Brisa Lite Removable Gel System combines the performance of Brisa Gel with the removability of CND Shellac. This product is safe as it does not require any filing of the natural nail. It is long-lasting, offering perfect three-week wear without any yellowing. In terms of application it is controllable, self-levelling and sculptable, adding shape and length in just two coats. 086 112 6374
Dermatologic Cosmetic Laboratories (DCL) Peptide Plus Treatment Serum contains a potent combination of corrective peptides, antioxidants and nourishing hydrators. This anti-ageing treatment targets pigmentation, wrinkles, fine lines and skin laxity. 086 11 STERN
BRISA LITE PREVIEW
Launching April 2013
Sun sense Nimue sun-c SPF40 is a total photo protective system containing advanced organic and inorganic sunscreens, photo-stabilisers and an advanced complex of antioxidants. It offers broad spectrum (UVA l, UVA ll, UVB) protection and guards cellular DNA from irreversible damage. This lightweight, non-oily product is clinically tested, conforms to regulations and is suitable for all skin classifications. 086 006 4683
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Getting even BioSublime Extrem’ Peel offers enzymatic exfoliation of the skin with a combination of papain, bromelain and natural salicylic acid, dissolving surface skin impurities and lifeless cells. Suitable for normal to oily skin it evens out skin tones and hyperpigmentation problems, and has a deep pore-cleansing action to help control acne, blemishes and blackheads. 082 332 0622
PRODUCT NEWS
Luscious lips Hannon Plumping Colour Lipgloss features a mixture of silicone and wax derived from the Brazilian Fan plant to plump, soften, moisturise, and calm sores and cracked lips. Colours include: Rosebud, Hollywood, Berry, Mink, Coral and Candy Sugar. 011 608 4065
Building loyalty ESP has built a new loyalty engine, allowing one to choose from its standard loyalty engine, designed for open-ended rewards and redemptions, or the new engine, which offers Tiered Loyalty Levels, User-Defined Thresholds, User-Defined Rewards, Automatic SMS Notification when a threshold has been reached and a reward has been given, Barcode or Magnetic Swipe Card lookup of loyalty members, Web Login for loyalty members to view their profiles, and a full Management Console to audit points earned, rewards issued and redeemed. You can also SMS or e-mail your loyalty clients either by their loyalty type or all loyalty types together. Automated Daily Birthday Notifications are sent via SMS and different message templates can be set up for different loyalty types and an automated SMS or e-mail is sent to new loyalty members to welcome them when they sign up. What’s more this engine allows you to earn and redeem rewards across multiple salons, which means that if you own more than one salon your clients can enjoy their loyalty benefits at any salon in your group. 021 421 6963
Professional Beauty May 2013
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PRODUCT NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Promoting natural health Sprayology assists to rejuvenate, relieve, restore and rebuild the body with advanced homeopathic oral sprays that have been formulated to promote natural health and wellness from within for men, women and children. The line consists of 22 FDAregulated homeopathic formulas and two vitamin sprays to treat issues ranging from lack of energy, sleeplessness and weight fluctuations to stress, jet lag, allergies, mental distraction, menopause symptoms and more. These products have no negative side effects, and they will not interfere with other products you may be taking, including prescription medication. 011 268 0018
Restore and repair RegimA Moisture Focus+ Restoring Facial Oil helps to seal and retain moisture, improve circulation, protect against free radical damage, promote healing and tissue regeneration and improve elasticity; combating wrinkles, sun damage and uneven skin tone. Some of the key ingredients include: Grape Seed Extract, Vitamin D3, Babassu Oil and Rosa Canina – Rosehip Seed Oil, and Centella Asiatica. 011 615 2869
Regenerating force Babor has introduced skincare line – SeaCreation. The Sea-intelligent Complex found in the range contains extracts of micro-organisms Glycocéane GP3 and Babor thermophiles, which activate fibroblasts to produce collagen for skin firmness and stability and to optimise anti-oxidative processes deep down to promote all cell-regenerating functions, respectively. Green caviar algae extract stimulates protein synthesis for improved skin structure, increasing elasticity while re-sculpting facial contours. 011 467 0110
Skin clear Best Lasers has launched Clear Vision 3D, which offers precise and high-quality photo documentation. From a single snapshot, this technology is able to render 3D images. Six high-definition cameras simultaneously capture frontal and profile shots of the client from three different angles. The triangular design offers 100% repeatability for lighting and client positioning. This ensures consistency and that comparative imaging always remains accurate. It features UV filters to show what is happening on and underneath the skin – an effective consultation tool that can open doors to additional professional services. All images are stored in a dedicated client base, with existing files accessed by simply entering the patient’s name and record number. There is open access to print and share with no hidden software fees. 012 998 9844
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PRODUCT NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Potent delivery
Cause and effect
Dermalogica has introduced MultiVitamin Power Serum with Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) – a potent, more skin-friendly form of Vitamin A, which stimulates cell turnover and inhibits MMPs (enzymes) that degrade collagen and elastin. The benefits of this ingredient are maximised by the next generation in liposomal preparation technique, a laboratory process which allows for higher load-capacity, thus placing increased dosage of vitamins deeper into the skin for greater effectiveness. In addition to HPR and an assortment of encapsulated vitamins, including two forms of stabilised collagen known to stimulate Vitamin C production in the skin, the serum is fortified with Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, a peptide that helps to stimulate collagen biosynthesis and reduce the signs of ageing in the skin. 011 268 0018
DermaQuest Skin Therapy launches Retinol Youth Serum, which combines the use of retinol with Allosteris, a soy bean extract which increases the skin’s ability to receive retinol without irritation and an increase in the percentage of retinol used. It allows the skin to rebuild collagen, increase elastin formation and skin thickness; diminishing lines, wrinkles and age spots and minimising pore size. 011 325 5849
south african association of h e a l t h a n d s k i n c a re p ro f e s s i o n a l s Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
Feedback from Services Seta’s Stakeholders Meeting, 12 March 2013 By: Joelette Theron, Education Facilitator, SAAHSP – CIDESCO Section SA
The Services SETA has undergone major changes in the last few months. In an effort to demonstrate continued commitment to delivering tangible, trainable and accountable measures of service excellence to the services sector, it will once again be engaging with stakeholders.
T
he Executive Management team and the stakeholder liaison divisional management team will be addressing positive changes and the upcoming projects. This also includes a basket of information sharing that will assist in supporting and responding to the Local Economic Development Strategy and implementation of mechanisms and strategies to identify and address scarce and critical skills in the Services Sector per province. The intention is to ensure that the Services Sector has access to the necessary tools and information to support skills development critical to maintaining and growing its skills base, thereby sustaining productive and supporting operations and creating opportunities for SSMEs and cooperatives. Ms Nokosazana Tengimfene announced the context of the meeting, stating: The changes signalled in the NSDSIII have now been recognised, and these changes include: Mandatory grants are reduced from 50% of the levy to 20%, with a consequent increase in discretionary funds; The objectives and impact that the SSETA intends to achieve need to be set out in sector skills plans and the strategic plan (with targets and budget). Policies and implementation arrangements need to be set out to show how these will be achieved.
Background (SSETA changes) When the SSETA was placed under administration the following was identified: • There has been wrongdoing; • The Sector Skills Plan was poorly researched and not useful as a guide to work; • The funds of the SSETA were being managed badly and there was a lot of waste and corruption. Planned programmes had to be halted so as not to continue wasting resources; • The delivery model (working through a small number of labour brokers and lead providers to deliver funded training) was abused and made monitoring impossible.
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Specific challenges in 2012 In 2011, it was agreed to move to an open tender process whereby member companies put in proposals for some R800m of discretionary funds. This was intended to eliminate a “closed process” of the past and “open up” the whole 150 000 members of the SSETA. It was the intention that the process would be efficient and quick. Unfortunately the process was slow and fraught with unforeseen problems. SSETA cannot undo what was done. It has learnt from its mistakes and will ensure that it improves. Sector skills plan • Sector redefine ° Services SETA Sector consists of 16 sub-sectors, including business services, property services, household and personal care services; ° It is part of the wider services sector that includes transport, financial, ICT and other services; • Environmental growth analysed; • Growth areas explored; • SSETA’s role in developing the sector redefined; • This is an on-going process and stakeholders are invited to read and engage with the plan; • This will be the guiding document for SSETA work over the next several years. SSETA planned five-year outcome • A comprehensive labour market research system; • Sector and sub-sector development plans; • Scarce skills will be identified; • A clear set of priority critical skills will be developed and agreed on by the sub-sectors; • Small micro enterprises will be identified to improve income generating and employment; • Educational and training supply challenges will be identified and addressed. How to access programmes • Sector employers are invited to complete Expression of Interest (EOI); • If an organisation is a legally registered
entity and is tax-compliant, the next step is to complete the appropriate learning intervention application; • There will be workplace visits and discussion; • The application will be approved; • SSETA will assist in implementing the agreed programme; • A provider tender is being conducted so that providers can be contracted speedily to meet demand. The floor was opened for questions and comments and the general feeling was that lack of communication, not sticking to time frames, and lack of organisation within the SSETA were the main problems. All sectors had individual meetings within their chambers. This information session was vital for the industry to specifically voice its concerns with the SSETA. Points that were raised specifically for the Beauty Chamber: • ETQA – Accreditation of training provider process procedures and systems were slow and very exclusive; • Qualifications that have been changed and the provider’s frustration in registering those new qualifications to the scope of practise; • Communication as a whole is greatly lacking; • Scarce skills identified were nail technology and IPL Laser Therapy. Mention was made that any person is able to buy a machine and be able to practise as there is no regulation. New Beauty Chamber contact persons to aid and assist with all matters: Beauty Chamber Manager; Nomfezelo Vezi: nomfezelov@serviceseta.org.za Assisting the Chamber Manager; Chantal Rodrigues: chantalr@serviceseta.org.za Bianca Paulsen: biancap@serviceseta.org.za Should you still have issues that are not being resolved you can contact: Ms Nkosazana Tengimfene: nkosazanat@serviceseta.org.za
Sprayology® tackles today’s most common health and wellness issues such as: lack of energy sleeplessness weight fluctuations stress
SAY HELLO TO THE BELLABACI MASSAGE
dull, slow growing hair brittle, weak nails allergies, allergic reactions, and more
Sprayology provides essential ingredients in a uniquely convenient spray form (sprayed into the mouth under the tongue, where they are absorbed directly into the bloodstream) to deliver immediate results and to replenish the body’s natural resources to function at optimum levels. The Sprayology line consists of 23 FDA regulated homeopathic formulas and 2 vitamin sprays.
MASSAGE WITH CUPS AND KISSES Looking for a massage that goes beyond Deep Tissue, further than Thai, deeper than Sports, that enhances Aromatherapy? A massage that gives you more? For training and to become a stockist: c 083 459 9357 e info@bellabaci.co.za to learn more: www.bellabaci.com
sprayologysa @sprayologysa www.sprayology.co.za
Looking for affordable, cutting edge, spa & salon management software?
User-friendly booking and scheduling management Client history and relationship management Advanced employee scheduling and tracking Comprehensive stock control and supplier history Complete voucher management E-mail and SMS marketing with mail merge Track sales and cash and manage purchasing Real-time reservation and retail ordering engine www.spaguru.co.za
Tel +27 21 840 1860 | Fax +27 21 851 5185 | Email sales@spaguru.co.za
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The perfect system for professional eyelash and eyebrow tinting
(Tel) 031 2095490, (Fax) 031 209 9352, refectocil@wol.co.za, www.refectocil.co.za
Classifieds Î
RADIO-FREQUENCY
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Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Sally-Jane Nkomo Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: sally-jane@probeauty.co.za
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES
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EDUCATION AND TRAINING
EDUCATION AND TRAINING
PRODUCTS AND SERVICES
We sell to salons, doctors, and aesthetic clinics
• A 'deeper than skin-deep' product with safe superficial chemical peel • Suitable for all skin types & all ages • Normalise the skin functions • Stimulates collagen production • Proudly South African skin care range formulated in conjunction with scientists, specially for our climate using quality, pure ingredients • Hypoallergenic product which has never been tested on animals & contains no animal derivatives • Alcohol free, Paraben free and natural based
Contact: Ms Elnari Breytenbach Tel: 073-379 0147 • Email: info@luvite-sa.co.za
Website: www.luvite-sa.co.za
BIOPTRON Light Therapy
SupplieRS:
stimulates microcirculation, cell regeneration and dermis’ absorption, thus improving skin regeneration and fighting skin-ageing.
Slimming Machines, Saunas, Body Analyzers, Beauty Facial Products, IPL, Cavitation machines
TRaining:
BIOPTRON is totally harmless,
Emotional Weightloss training, IPL Training, Health Analyzing, Anatomy training
polarised and UV-free light. For more information contact:
SeRviceS:
Servicing of slimming machines, IPL’s and analyzers
Beauty & Make-up Design School
Head office: 021 421 7888 Fax: 021 439 0212 Mobile: 082 950 0495 Email: sales@bioptron.co.za
Red Ruby Beauty
082 770 9629
www.bioptron.co.za
www.redrubybeauty.co.za
Become an Internationally Certified Image Consultant Join the experts to train you in the fastest growing industry in the world.
Custom Salon Design and Manufacturing, allowing for unique and practical beauty spaces.
Come to the sea -
Free accommodation and airport transfers.
FACE to FACE
CONTACT: admin@imageconsultant.co.za Office Land Line: 032 586 0286 SMS: 072 043 6528 www.imageconsultant.co.za
4C Winchester Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 PO Box 2180, Houghton 2041 Tel: 011 726 2644 / 8144 / 8166 Fax: 011 726 4944 Email: info@facetoface.co.za Web: www.facetoface.co.za All courses are Nationally & Internationally accredited by SERVICES SETA (3725), ITEC, CIDESCO and City & Guilds International.
Introducing MUK SPA. The perfect fusion of nature and technology, MUK Introducing MUKIntroducing SPA. MUK The perfect fusion of natureMUK and technology, MUK SPA. The perfect fusion of and technology, Argan Oil Repair range is 100% free ofnature sulfates, parabens, phosphates, Oil Repair is 100% free of sulfates, parabens, phosphates, Argan Oil RepairArgan range isrange 100% free of sulfates, parabens, phosphates, mineral oil and contains no added sodiumsodium chloride. Exclusively mineral oil and contains no added chloride. Exclusively in South Africa Silver Stars sodium Hair & Beauty Salon. mineral oil anddistributed contains no byadded chloride. Exclusively distributed Silver Stars Hair & & Beauty Beauty Salon. Salon. For more info please contactby Silver Stars Hair & Beauty Salon on distributed in in South South Africa Africa by Silver Stars Hair Tel: 041-583 2490 Cell: 072 915 4414
E-mail: info@silverstarspe.co.za For Stars Hair Hair & & Beauty Beauty Salon Salon on on For more more info info please please contact contact Silver Silver Stars Tel: 2490 Tel: 041-583 041-583 2490 Cell: 072 915 4414and technology, MUK Introducing MUK SPA. The perfect of nature Cell:fusion 072 915 4414 Argan Oil Repair rangeE-mail: is 100%info@silverstarspe.co.za free of sulfates, parabens, phosphates, E-mail: info@silverstarspe.co.za
mineral oil and contains no added sodium chloride. Exclusively distributed in South Africa by Silver Stars Hair & Beauty Salon.
Contact: Shiloh Cell: 072 543 2620 / 072 234 6190 / 031 312 5200 The Vanity Box Training Centre and Makeup Studio
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For more info please contact Silver Stars Hair & Beauty Salonof onnature and technology, MUK Introducing MUK SPA. The perfect fusion 041-583 2490is 100% free of sulfates, parabens, phosphates, Argan OilTel: Repair range Cell: 072 915 4414 mineral oil and contains no added sodium chloride. Exclusively E-mail: info@silverstarspe.co.za
BEAUTY ONLINE
distributed in South Africa by Silver Stars Hair & Beauty Salon. For more info please contact Silver Stars Hair & Beauty Salon on Tel: 041-583 2490 Cell: 072 915 4414 E-mail: info@silverstarspe.co.za
VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty May 2013
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PRODUCTS AND SERVICES
Sunbed Spares & Services
The Far infrared Slimming blanket
Sole Importer of
FUNCTION:
Accelerate blood circulation, promote the body’s metabolism. Infrared radiation softens and dissolves fat cells quickly. Detoxification and drainage of the lymphatic glands, causing a reduction in arthritis and insomnia. Weight loss and body toning is a natural process while using the Infrared blanket. We do have specials on more slimming machines.
Normal Price: R9500-00 Special: R4000
A Touch of Elegance Day SPA
Tel: 012 3486777 Email: elegancespa@webmail.co.za
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Sunbeds
Repairs to all makes of sunbeds SupplierS of: CAlTAN Tanning lotions
Tel: 083 321 9038
BEAUTY MARKETPLACE An extensive range of high quality Health, Beauty and Surgical products and supplies. Distributor of Beauty Image Wax in KZN region Contact: Marie 082 8228 909 email: marie@bluelinemarketing.co.za web: www.bluelinemarketing.co.za
To advertise your PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND SUPPLIES in this space, call Sandy on 011 781 5970
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Regulars: Industry news, Spa news, Business tips, Medical Aesthetics, Beauty product focus, Latest products, Treatment reviews, Nail updates, Spa and Salon reviews. Features: Lasers & IPLs, Body Shaping, Male grooming, Permanent Make up, Anti-Ageing, Software, Hair removal, Pigmentation, Show previews, Sun protection, Slimming wraps, Microneedling, Fragrances and candles, Ingredients... and more. The magazines are published as follows: • January/February • March/April • May • June • July • August • September • October/November • Annual Directory (appears in January)
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For enquiries: Tel: 011 781 5970