Issue 2
Toe the line
June 2015
Prime pedi services
Lekker lacquer
Metal Mania Metallic and chrome shades
What’s in nail polish
New kid on
the block
Start-up salons
What’s inside Nail File
20
22
46
32
4
20
34
Industry News
Salon Focus
In the Market
12
22
36
Ask the Experts
Style Savvy
Know Your Chemicals
24
39
Nail Trends
Flip Nail Art
28 / 31
40 / 42 / 44
Pedicure
Step by Steps
Stay in the know
What to know when starting a nail salon
16 Nail Art Competition
Showcase for photographic and tip box nail art
17 History
Fun facts
18 Business
Hurdles facing the industry
Sister Act – Polish Nail Spa
Metallica
In full colour
Pedi perfect Fight that fungus!
32 Winning Ways
Professional Beauty London Championships
Product Hub
The Nitty-Gritty of Nail Polish
When nail art flips
Stained Glass Winter Mosaic S.s.snakeskin Art Midnight Masquerade
46 Top Tech Talk
Q&A with Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
Welcome NAIL FILE A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com
Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Ursula Wong ursula@probeauty.co.za Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za Advertising Sales 011 781 5970
H
ow exciting it has been working on this, the second issue of Nail File, in the wake of all the wonderful feedback we’ve received from readers regarding our inaugural issue. The Nail File team really appreciates your appreciation and will continue its efforts to make this publication the best nail read ever. We are also very excited about the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition (please see page 16 for details) and encourage all nail stylists to enter. The search is officially on for the most creative and innovative nail art out there. As this issue went to print, the Professional Beauty/Nail File team was busy putting together its very first Nail Workshop, to run on Sunday, 28 June at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, as part of the Professional Beauty Cape Town Show. Its purpose is to inform, educate and uplift the industry, so it’s not to be missed. This issue includes invaluable advice on what to consider when starting a nail business and a fashion focus on a really popular nail trend – metallics. You can also read how to create the perfect pedicure service and about what chemicals go into nail lacquer. There are also fascinating step by step guides, something always sought after by nail techs.
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
To advertise in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 To contr ibute to editorial, contact Joanna To join the conversation Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
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News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips A fairy tale launch Several preview screenings of Disney’s new live action film, Cinderella, were hosted in Cape Town and Johannesburg in March by Sparkle Cosmetics to launch the Cinderella Collection by Morgan Taylor and Gelish.
Says Sparkle Cosmetics MD Debbie Kayle: “To be able to work with a company such as Walt Disney is a humbling experience and a huge honour. Nail Alliance (Hand & Nail Harmony), the international company owners of Gelish and Morgan Taylor, collaborated with Walt Disney USA to be the brand partners for Cinderella worldwide.” Several hundred guests attended the screenings – a mix of beauty editors; beauty bloggers; beauty group heads; Morgan Taylor and Gelish clients; celebrities, such as former Miss SA Cindy Nel and actress Catriona Andrews; and winners of Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
the Cosmopolitan Online Morgan Taylor Cinderella Competition. Screenings were held at Cape Town’s Canal Walk Nu Metro and at Movies@ MonteCasino in Johannesburg. Guests (barring the Cosmopolitan Competition winners, who each received a gift bag containing a Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer and a Sorbet Morgan Taylor Mani or Pedi gift voucher) were instructed to arrive at the screenings with bare nails. Twenty nail therapists were on hand in both Johannesburg and Cape Town to paint nails in guests’ choice of Morgan Taylor colours. “Coordinating these events was an
absolute delight from beginning to end,” states Kayle. “I worked together with my amazingly talented sisters, Romy Pfaff, Sparkle’s director of marketing and Nicole Hoffmann, our creative director. Our amazing team of ‘Sparkles’ worked tirelessly to ensure that everything was perfect, down to the last sparkle in the champagne. “A huge thank you to Lucia Oosthuizen, Sparkle Head of Education and Tamsin Scott, my Sparkle assistant, for their amazing commitment and dedication to ensuring that these events went off without a single hitch.”
News
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Bio Sculpture International Conference Twenty-five importers from 14 countries attended the recent three-day, bi-annual Bio Sculpture International Conference hosted at the Zuikerkop Game Lodge and the company’s head office in Clocolan, Free State. “Our delegates held meetings in their own countries following the International Conference to hand over information learnt during their time in South Africa,” says Bio Sculpture founder Elmien Scholtz. “The conference covered a broad spectrum of items relevant to the business. “Delegates were introduced to Bio Sculpture International’s new
factory in Clocolan. I’m proud to announce that the factory is ISO 9001:2008 accredited, a fact that generated much interest and discussion at the conference.” According to Scholtz, several prospective new products and future developments were revealed at the conference, boding a very exciting time ahead for the company.
Elmien Scholtz
Essie appoints Minkoff Nail brand Essie has announced Rebecca Minkoff, designer and owner of the eponymous fashion label of the same name, as its new global colour designer. Minkoff worked with Essie to devise the Spring 2015 Flowerista collection, which launched worldwide in March. This is the first of many Essie collections that she will collaborate on. Minkoff will also lead the brand’s on-trend vision and provide perspective on the brand’s colour direction for future collections. Says Minkoff: “I have always has a lifelong passion for vibrant nail colour and nail art – they are the perfect accessory. I look forward to a successful and colourful journey with Essie.” Rebecca Minkoff
Minkoff first worked with Essie at New York Fashion Week in 2012.
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
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News Industry News
Nailbar comes to South Africa First launched in Hamburg, Germany in 2010, the LCN Nailbar concept is now being introduced to the South African market. The LCN Nailbar franchise package includes the Nailbar Cube, background lighting, three to six workplaces that include chairs and workstations, and one or two TV monitors. Services include manicures for ladies and gents, and gel treatment nail repair services. Products include hand and nail care products and promotional products. Ideal locations for Nailbar Cubes are shopping malls and airports. Says Megan Castro, GM of Looking Good LCN South Africa: “The inspiration for the Nailbar came about by chance. While on a flight from Frankfurt to New York, LCN trainer Britta Schmidt met two ladies, one of whom had problems with ripped finger nails. Britta promised to recommend a
good nail spa when they landed in New York but on arrival, they discovered that all the shops were closed due to Thanksgiving. “Intent on repairing the lady’s nails, Britta suggested they go to a bar in Times Square. While she worked on the nails, more and more people in the bar came over to see what she was doing. An animated discussion about
New appointment at EBS George Aldrich has been promoted to brand manager for the Nail Division of EBS (Exclusive Beauty Solutions). Aldrich’s portfolio encompasses the CND and Crisnail brands.
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
nails ensued and it turned into something of a ‘nail party’.” Castro reveals that Looking Good LCN is in the process of finding a potential master franchise partner. This will be followed by the signing of local franchisees to run the individual Nailbars. LCN hopes to see the first Nailbar open in October this year.
NSI training courses NSI South Africa has announced new training courses that are up to date with international techniques in the nail industry, as well as a Train the Trainer – Training Skills course. Please contact NSI Johannesburg on 011 025 4007 for more information.
☞
Book your seat at the most EXCLUSIVE nail workshop
For further information, visit www.probeauty.co.za or contact Sonette at sonette@probeauty.co.za
Sunday, 30 August 2015 Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg
The nail workshop, is coming to Cape Town and Johannesburg! A brand new
Organised by:
educational event dedicated to Nail Professionals and the first of its kind in South Africa –supported by the fantastic new Nail
File magazine.
• Attend and learn the latest techniques • Get certified as a leading technician • Excellent skills development • Tutorials from leading brand names • Learn how to grow your business • Nails… more than just ART!
In association with:
News
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IBX now in SA The award-winning IBX System is now available to the South African professional nail market exclusively through Sparkle Cosmetics. According to Sparkle Cosmetics’ marketing director, Romy Pfaff, IBX is ideal for the natural nail.
In this way IBX becomes a permanent addition to the nail plate.
She continues: “As IBX cures, it forms an IPN (Interpenetrating Polymer Network). The IPN bonds itself to the keratin in the nail plate. This results in a toughening of the nail plate, but with flexibility and without brittleness.
“Using the IBX system is like an insurance policy for your nails to guard against problems. IBX has an ongoing beneficial effect on natural nails. The results speak for themselves and we are so excited for people to benefit from this amazing brand.”
Pfaff notes that IBX is perfect for protecting the nail plate from the gel and lacquer removal processes and can be used underneath Gelish treatments and Morgan Taylor manicures and pedicures. “IBX crossed our paths a number of times over the past year and a half and we felt it was the perfect time to add another amazing brand to the Sparkle Cosmetics family,” she concludes.
Average parent paints daughter’s nails from age three According to research from nail product subscription service Nailbox, three years and nine months is the average age at which British parents start painting their children’s nails. Some 2186 British parents around the UK, all of whom had at least one daughter between the ages of five and 10, were surveyed by Nailbox about their rules on nail polish use. When asked what age they would ideally like to wait until before painting their child’s nails, the average result came out at eight years old. The most popular reason among respondents as to why they painted their daughter’s nails was ‘because they look cute’ (54% of respondents), but other reasons included ‘to encourage her to stop biting her nails’ and ‘because she wanted her nails painted’. The most popular nail colours kids chose were green (17%), yellow and red.
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Ask the Experts
Are you
ready? QUESTION: I want to start my own nail salon business. What are my options?
Sam Biddle
Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail technician and educator. She is an international judge and competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd.
Starting your own business, whether it be a salon, mobile operation or working from home, should be approached from the start with the right information and tools. There is a list of things you need to sort out when starting your own business, such as financing, tax issues, legal implications, training and insurances, etc. But the most important thing to think about when you start any business is the customers – who are they and do they want what you can offer? Without the customer you will
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
have no business and yet this is the one thing most people forget when they start out. Businesses have failed within the first three years because they are not targeting the right market and tailoring their business to the needs of their local market. This does change from city to city and country to country, so it is important to do your research. Market research is a fundamental step when you start your own business. Don’t rely on the fact that the salon down the road has customers, you need to think
Ask the Experts
about who your customer is, what she wants and want can you give her. Come up with three or four questions you can post on local social media groups. Stand in the high street and stop ladies who walk by and ask them the questions, and perhaps visit shops in the area in which you’re planning to open a salon and speak to them. Here are some examples of questions to ask:
• ‘Do you have your nails done?’ • ‘When was the last time you visited a nail salon or nail bar?’
• ‘What treatment did you have?’
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• ‘How often do you polish your nails?’
• ‘Have you ever worn nail art?’
Don’t forget to ask their age, if they drive and if they work.
Then, when you have the information you need, create a client profile, give her a name, age and create a back story for her. Once you understand your client you can then target them with effective marketing; tell them you can give them what they asked for and sell them your services. V
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Ask Askthe theExperts Expert
Katia Da Silva is an award-winning NSI expert and master educator. She is the co-owner of the NSI JHB Products Depot and School.
KATIA DA SILVA When it comes to setting up any nail salon I always say, location, location, location, because I believe this is the key to great success in our industry. Unfortunately, prime location comes at a great expense. If you have the financial capital and a bit of business experience, then by all means do it as it is well worth the investment.
However, most technicians do not have the required capital. If that’s the case then renting a table or space in a hair or beauty salon always works well. That way the technician taps into the store’s current clientele, while making their own clients happy as the client will be able to do more than just her hands and feet in the salon. One advantage of this option is that the expenses involved in running the store are not your responsibility. Many nail technicians prefer a little more free time to take care of family responsibilities. A salon or a single station set up from home is a very common way of running a nail salon. It can be challenging, as you would need to ensure that you are constantly marketing yourself with affordable prices. One of the benefits is that you
determine your working hours in the comfort of your own home. Dedication and determination are necessary to make it a success. Then there are technicians who like to be ‘free agents’ and move around. A mobile operation is perfect for them as it gives them the opportunity to do nails in the convenience of the client’s home or work place. Mobile technicians could even arrange contracts to work at a corporate company for one day a month. Keep in mind that one would need a reliable car and charge for traveling time. When it comes to running a nail business there are many options and that is what makes our industry so fantastic. As long as you have a qualification and a brush, the rest is up to you. So dream on and be fabulous.
Renting a table or space in a hair or beauty salon always works well.
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
Ask the Experts
SONETTE VAN RENSBURG There is more to starting your own nail business than just being an excellent nail technician. However, we all have to start somewhere and there is no better place than the very beginning – getting to know as much as you possibly can about the industry will help equip you to set up a successful and fruitful business. There are many different options and directions in which you can take your business, depending on what your goal is, whether it’s being a home based nail technician, going mobile, or opening a fully-fledged nail salon. You will need to have a good business sense, plan effectively and consider some very important factors in order to be successful. In the May issue of Professional Beauty, I spoke about being furnished and equipped for success, which is very much part of what needs to be considered. Also, be sure to look at the following:
• • • • • •
Business plan Location & accessibility Concept, layout & set-up
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Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 25 years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
sure you evaluate and assess them properly. Nail technicians are now becoming recognised as professionals in their own right and have a vast choice of career paths to follow, some of them requiring a lot of knowledge, experience and skills. Along with being a highly skilled nail technician and having a good sound knowledge in nail technology, the following attributes are also very important to have: being approachable and presentable; good communication, listening and interactive skills; being professional and having a positive attitude; honesty and integrity; and most of all, take pride in what you do and have a passion for the industry.
recommend that you do some extensive research so as to be up to date with exactly what is hip and happening, in order to know what you are up against. Also, be sure you keep abreast with product innovation, education and technology to ensure that you stay on top of your game.
With the nail industry constantly evolving you need to remember that nothing ever stays the same, so I would
Service offering Product offering Marketing & PR
If you are thinking of taking the plunge and opening a full on nail salon, you need to remember that, along with everything else, your staff are going to be the most integral part of making your business a success, so make Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
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Competition
Nail File Showcase
Nail Art Competition All nail stylists are invited to highlight their artistic skills by submitting their work for the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition 2015.
T
he Top 10 entries in each category will be featured in Nail File Issue 4, which will be bagged together with the September issue of Professional Beauty magazine. Thereafter, the Top 3 in each category will be announced and exhibited at the Professional Beauty Nail Competition that takes place as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo (30 & 31 August, Gallagher Convention Centre). The Top 3 will also be featured in the post-show issue of Nail File. Says competition director Sonette van Rensburg: “For the Photographic Nail Art Category, the nail stylist must create a beautiful set of nails done with any style or type of nail art and send in a professional, high-res photo of their work to be judged. Photographs must be no smaller than 8 x 10 inches in size and may be mounted and presented in any artistic way the nail stylist wishes. “It’s important to remember that the entire creativity, presentation
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
and style of the picture will be judged, not only the nails. Make-up, costume and hair can be done as long as it pertains to the theme, design and style of the nails.” For the Tip Box Nail Art category, the competitor’s entry and artwork is to be designed and created on nail tips and placed in a transparent box, box frame or display case, which allows the competitors’ nails to be seen. Displays may be shop-bought or made, however the boxes may not be smaller than 25cm in length and width and no less than 10cm in height.
There are two categories in the competition for nail stylists to choose from – Photographic Nail Art and Tip Box Nail Art.
All entries must be submitted by no later than 12 noon on 20 July. Entries must be delivered to the Professional Beauty offices at TE Trade Events (263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg)
For more information about the rules & regulations of the Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition visit www.probeauty.co.za or contact the competition director on 076 585 4191 or email sonettevr@gmail.com
History
Fun facts
Did you know that…
2. Cleopatra diligently followed regular beauty rituals, many of which are still being followed to this day and have since been adapted. She apparently filed her nails with a ruby stone and painted them in a deep red to show her high social standing. Cleopatra also bathed in milk and honey to keep her skin soft and hydrated.
5.
3. Nail polish can be traced back even further, originating in China in 3000 BC. According to a manuscript dating back to the Ming Dynasty, royal fingernails were painted in black and red, indicating social status. Egyptians also coloured their fingernails for this reason. Military commanders in ancient Egypt and Rome painted their nails to match their lips before going into battle.
In the 1920s screen stars were known for a look that was almost childlike, with short hair and slender figures. Nails were still unpolished, but the development of automobile paint soon provided the basis for fingernail paint.
6.
In 1925 nail polish entered the market in a sheer, rosy red shade and was applied only to the centre of the nail. The moon and the free edge were left colourless. Against all warnings, the cuticles were cut. Etiquette books of the time recommend that women should not be painting their nails with ‘garish colours’.
7.
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1.
People have been manicuring their nails for more than 4000 years, when nails were almond shaped, short and tinted with scented red oil and buffed with a chamois cloth. In Southern Babylonia, noblemen used solid gold tools to give themselves manicures and pedicures.
4.
In November 1917 an advertisement in Vogue warned: “Don’t cut the cuticles! Dr W.G. Korony of Louisville, Kentucky, suggests to rather employ the simple method of home manicuring – requiring no tools.” To create a natural glow and shine, women buffed their nails with cake, paste or powder.
In 1938 manicures cost from 25c to $3.50, depending on whether or not polish was applied. During the first half of the 20th century, men who frequented barbershops often received a manicure as well as a haircut, shave and shoeshine.
8.
In 1950 many more nail colours came onto the scene and with them, a more delicate looking nail. Nails went from pointed and dark to oval and pale. Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
Business
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Hurdles facing the industry Internationally known scientist, educator and author Doug Schoon talks about the need for nail technicians the world over to work together to raise standards.
I
believe the three biggest challenges facing the industry are the general lack of proper information and/or advanced training, sanitation lapses and treating medical conditions. I have a high regard for all educators in the nail industry, especially school instructors, but they can only teach the information they have. In many schools incorrect or outdated information and myths are often taught as facts and this has led to confusion and misunderstanding. For instance a commonly taught myth is: “You’ve got to rough up the nail plate or the product won’t stick”. The fact is that this unnecessary practice weakens the natural nail plate. Thanks to advanced technology, there is no longer any need to ‘etch’ the nail if quality products are correctly applied. The Nail Manufacturer’s Council (NMC) and the International
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
Nail Technicians Association (INTA) are working to address many such myths.
Sanitation Many nail technicians take short cuts in terms of properly cleaning and disinfecting every ‘surface’ that comes in direct contact with the client’s skin and this has led to serious infections. Both intact and broken skin can harbour infectious organisms that may infect other clients. If there is any visible debris, the item is not clean and should not be re-used. Both clients and nail technicians should always wash their hands with liquid soap and
running water before starting any services involving the hands. Clients should be given a properly cleaned and disinfected, soft bristle scrub brush for scrubbing under their nails. Bar soaps should be avoided since they can harbour bacteria. Antibacterial soaps do not provide any extra protection and can be more irritating to the skin. Any mild liquid soap in a pump bottle or squeeze tube is appropriate for salon use. Some clients have stopped going to nail salons out of fear of infection and the pedicure industry is suffering from repeated waves of bad publicity.
Business
Tell your clients about the sanitation steps you take. If you have a pedicure whirlpool bath, keep a logbook signed by the person who properly cleaned and disinfected it. When customers watch you open packages of clean and disinfected or properly sterilised implements, they know you are serious about your responsibility to protect their health.
Medical conditions Nail technicians should only perform services on healthy nails and skin with no visible signs of injury or diseases, as these may be transmitted or might require medical treatment. Only qualified medical doctors can diagnose or treat abnormal disorders or
I started my video series www.FacetoFacewithDougSchoon.com to help combat these challenges. The series focuses on nails, nail products and services, and a new episode is released twice a month, launching on Mondays.
diseases of the hands and feet. Avoid sharp implements and aggressive techniques that may cut or injure the skin. Cutting calluses with sharp blades or a metal implement is very risky, because it can easily cut into living skin and lead to infection. Nail technicians are only allowed to smooth down a callus to make it more cosmetically acceptable.
working together No nail technician or salon is an island. The salon down the street isn’t just another competitor, they’re part
of our industry and what they do can affect your business and livelihood. Each of us – manufacturers, salon and school owners, distributors, educators, and nail technicians – must work together to solve these great challenges. That’s the only way we’ll succeed.
Doug Schoon is co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC), and, as CND’s Chief Scientist, headed the R&D laboratory, QA, and field testing/evaluation departments for almost 20 years.
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Salon Focus
Sister act
It was the years-long struggle to find a great place to have their nails done that prompted siblings Vicky Ross and Lexi Reckling to initiate the concept of a nail spa, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
P
olish Nail Spa opened in August 2006 in the Parks Shopping Centre in Parkwood, Johannesburg.
Owners Vicky and Lexi felt there was an opportunity to open an upmarket niche business in the grooming arena that specialised in nails only. “We wanted to provide a pleasant and professional service in a beautiful environment,” explains Reckling. “When we opened Polish Nail Spa, the only businesses that
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
were operating in this sector were what we regarded as oldfashioned ‘nail bars’, that smelled of artificial nail product, had bad lighting and questionable sanitation standards. We believe we were the first nail spa, as such, at the time.” The obvious question to ask business partners who happen to be sisters is – what is it like to work together? Says Reckling: “It’s been lovely working together and wonderful
to know that, being family, we can totally trust each other.” Interestingly, neither sister has a history in the beauty industry. Both sisters come from an investment banking background, having studied for business degrees at university. Reckling continues: “We both bring different skills to the two businesses we own together – we also own Park Café, which is adjacent to Polish Nail Spa. Vicky is very strong at marketing, whereas my strength
Salon Focus
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lies in the administrative and staff management side.”
The look In terms of the nail spa’s design, Ross and Reckling were guided by their interior designer, LeeAnn Bell from Mezzanine. “We wanted an upmarket, beautiful environment with good lighting. Vicky and I chose a powder blue theme, with lovely wallpaper, wooden floors and perspex feature lights. We conducted our own research in terms of how to outfit and equip a nail salon,” notes Reckling. She describes The Parks Shopping Centre as a perfect location for the nail spa, being a community centre that is still small enough to provide a personal experience. Nail brands offered at Polish Nail Spa are CND Shellac, Vinylux, Crisnail and OPI. According to Reckling, retail forms a big part of the business, as, in addition to offering homecare nail products, such as hand creams, treatment nail products and top coats, the sisters retail bespoke jewellery, handbags, scarves, sunhats and ‘a wonderful range of household scents from the US’. Polish Nail Spa is 60 square metres in size and employs 10 full-time nail technicians.
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Style Savvy
Metallica
Shoes: classicwomansclub.net
Gelish: My Jewels Keep Me Warm, Snowflakes and Skyscrapers
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
I
Pic: www.popsugar.com
Dress by DSQUARED2, farfetch.com
Get your nails rocking in the latest, most popular nail trend to hit the fashion scene.
nspired by earth’s precious metals in different effects of chrome mirror, with colours such as emerald green, azure blue and sunshine yellow. Or, create an iridescent escape with an array
of spellbinding colours, reflecting glitzy under-tones of pinks, lilacs and blues.
Add a touch of splendour to any evening outfit with eye catching 3D holographic nail lustres, to make your presence known. Choose Sparitual: Cassiterite, GoldDigger and Illumination to get gorgeous in glitters and turn some heads in shimmering shades of icy silver, gilded gold and brilliant bronze, or
Style Savvy
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Ice Box: Royal Lights and Vodka Ice
Bio Sculpture Fantasy Collection
Morgan Taylor: Whose Cider Are You On, If looks could kill, Metaling Around Crisnail: Diamond Copper, Diamond Silver and Diamond Night
bedazzle with the rich, bold jewelled colours of Tanzanite, Topaz and Ruby. Be hip or be square and celebrate life with these marvellous metallic shades that absolutely pop. It’s like liquid metal for your fingertips!
Handbag: classicwomansclub.net
LCN: Gold Honey Princess, What a Royal Treat and Delicious Me
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Nail Trends
In full colour Nail File asked a wide array of suppliers to comment on their brands’ most popular shades and collections over the last six months.
O
dette Els of The Nail House points out that glitter is in.
“Everyone loves the glitter!’ she states. “Our nude Creamy Cameo has been the most popular colour by far, while pastel colours such as Pastel Lilac, Blue Pastel, Blink Pink and Pastel Yellow have been used and sold on a daily basis. “We received our new colours recently and so far they are doing
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well, but we’ve only had them for a month. They comprise neon colours such as Purple Rain, Green Envy and Pink Pink.” Tracy Muller, area manager for Bio Sculpture KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland and Mozambique, notes that the brand only began to introduce collections three years ago. “Overall our most popular colour has been Pillar Box Red (No. 19) – this was one of our first
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“The most popular colour throughout the range is Idyllic, but this is because it is used as a French pink. As for other colours, Delight has been our best seller since it became part of the permanent range two years ago.”
colours ever made and is still popular today. Our Hollywood Collection has proved very popular for those who prefer a more pastel look. “We find that clients’ choices tend to be seasonal. For instance, our Carnival Collection, with its vibrant and bright colours, was our best seller in Summer 2014/2015. Meanwhile, our winter colours are already selling fast and furiously. These are colours that are featured in our Folks Collection – deep, rich fashion colours.” Muller notes that Bio Sculpture is prepared and ready for spring with the bright, lively and fun Happy Hippie Collection. “It’s been evident that certain colours sell more than others on special occasions, red for Valentine’s Day and pink for Breast Cancer Month, for instance,” she comments. Sparkle Cosmetics reports that three of the most popular Morgan Taylor colours over the last six months are from the Neon Lights collection, namely Don’t Worry Be Brilliant
(vivid coral), Pink Flame-ingo (cerise) and Shock Therapy (dark purple). The other most popular Morgan Taylor colours are from its Core Colours range. They are Luxe Be A Lady (deep lilac), I’m Charmed (soft lilac) and Simply Irresistible (pale pink). Gelish colours that have proved popular over the last six months, according to Sparkle Cosmetics, are Sweat Dream (off white), Arctic Freeze (white), I’m Brighter Than You (pink), Rocking The Reef (oran ge/red); Gossip Girl (maroon) and Passion (pale red). When asked which have been the recent best-selling SpaRitual colours, Natasha Adriaanse of Logica Beauty Supplies responds: “Our most popular colours have always been French Tip and Idyllic, which are the French Manicure white and pink colours. Recently though our most popular colours have been Strike a Pose (deep pink), Delight (pale aqua blue), Too Hot Too Handle (dark red) and Emerald City (green).
Nail Affair Corp reports that pink in all its different hues – fuscia pink, shocking pink, neon pink, pastel pink and muted pink mauves – have proved to be extremely popular this past summer. “Bombshell Pink was definitely a front runner but the all-time, stalwart, red (Classey and Luscious) was very popular, while red orange (Scoundrel) and Vixen, a very deep almost black purple, were definitely in the mix, along with more muted versions. “Blue (Breathless or Calm) made a showing, especially for occasions. French Pink Blush and Polar White were still requested but have cooled off somewhat. This was definitely a hot summer in more ways than one,” says Nail Affair Corp. The most popular ICE BOX colors hues are: Mermaids Are Real (teal), Noting To Prove (nude), Espresso Yourself (mocha), Caricouture (turquoise), You Stole My Tart (coral), Diary Of The Duchess (plum/burgundy), Sweet Tooth (watermelon), Yes You Candy (coral/red), Pomodoro (deep red), High Tea (dusty pink), Indigo Home (periwinkle), Crimson (bright red) and Las Vegas Lights (pink holographic).
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Promotion
Is the general conception about yellow or ugly nails always correct? Read this. It may change the way you think about ‘loose nails’ and ‘fungal infected nails!’
A
loose nail is not necessarily fungal infected and usually starts from minor trauma e.g. injury to a nail; or from jogging; or nail biting; or aggressive manicuring; and also from contact with irritants or excessive exposure to water. (There are exceptions and these might need medical attention, but are rare; and more can be read about this on our very informative website www. loosenails.com (or .co.za) A nail is loose when it becomes separated from the nail bed although it remains attached around its edges. The first sign of a nail becoming loose is usually a change in its colour from pink to yellow on cream. The nail bed of a separated nail becomes dry and is no longer flexible, and this causes the colour change. (See bottom three photos on opposite page). If ignored such nails will most likely degenerate to the point where they become a major
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
“help me!”
“thank you!”
Nail care therapists are in the front The first sign of a line to make people aware of this nail becoming loose is and it’s our responsibility towards the road beautiful 1000’sto of clients, who mightnails usually a change in Dial 0861 9999 07or visitotherwise suffer from fungal its colour from pink to infected and degenerated nails, to tell them about Fix-4-Nails® yellow or cream.
What is Fix-4-Nails®?
aesthetic issue. Loose nails are therefore mostly of aesthetic importance and often only the forerunner to fungal infected nails and this can be prevented if addressed in time and correctly.
A loose nail cannot be glued back onto a dry nail bed. It has to re-grow and this takes time. Oral and other anti-fungal treatments, although effective in obliterating fungi, are mostly not formulated
Promotion
27
to promote re-growth of nails; and once a nail is loose, it needs to re-grow together with the nail bed in order to become a new, beautiful nail. For this to happen, favourable under the nail conditions need to exist, such as the nail bed being 1) soft and flexible and Small nails 2) fungi-free.
Examples of loose nails in various stages of degeneration.
This can happen when a loose nail is ignored.
take on average
Fix-4-Nails® is three months, while a liquid applied under the nail big-toe nails can take and contains, 18 months to two amongst others, salicylic and years to re-grow. benzoic acids, which, in combination not only have known antifungal properties, but the salicylic acid, in this concentration, also softens the often accumulated keratin under the nail plate and with it the nail bed, which then regains its flexibility. Fix-4-Nails® is therefore thé ideal aid in ‘restoring by re-growth’ of loose and/or degenerated nails. Small nails take on average three months, while big-toe nails can take 18 months to two years to re-grow. There is simply no quick fix!. It also aids in protecting and maintaining of beautiful nails and therefore we recommend its use for 2 to 3 days at least once a month as part of one’s usual hand-hygiene. After all, no matter how beautiful and well cared for a lady looks, if her nails are not the same …. !! Need I say more? Oh yes, and what’s more, she can use nail polish while using Fix-4-Nails®!! For more information contact: Fix-4-Nails® info@fixfornails.co.za 0861 999 907
uniquely aids in restoring, maintaining and protection of
beautiful nails The first indication of a nail becoming loose, is a change in it’s colour from pink to cream (see bottom 3 photos) This may lead to degeneration & fungal infection Fix-4-Nails ® is distributed through Pharmacies
and Nail Care Clinics in South Africa and Namibia and online to other parts of the world Contact Willie Fourie cc Tel. +27(0)861 999 907
info@fixfornails.co.za Nail File Issue 01 March/April 2015
www.loosenails.com
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Pedicure
Pedi perfect So many therapists don’t like doing pedicures. If you ask them why, some will say they feel that feet are dirtier than hands, but this is a misconception, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
P
edicures are amazing treatments to perform and can be a pleasant and gratifying experience for both therapist and client. Because our feet are in shoes most of the time, they tend to perspire and are more prone than hands to funguses and sometimes smelling less than pleasant. Think of the hands as the desert and the feet as the rain forest, they both need plenty of nurturing, it’s just that their environments are different and they need to be treated accordingly. By adding various elements and using specialised products when performing a pedicure, your treatment can be customised to meet a client’s specific needs. All the basic techniques and steps for any pedi treatment remain the same, however, there is no reason why you can’t devise your own stepby-step treatment protocol, to
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
make it more specialised, as long as you achieve the most professional and effective results from the treatment. It’s the use of different types
of products and add-on services, along with specialised techniques and equipment, that will take a pedi from a basic service to a more beneficial treatment for the client.
Pedicure
You can also add some other elements to your treatment protocol to make it a more relaxed, luxurious experience for your client by incorporating all the senses, such as sound, sight, smell, taste and touch, turning your pedi into a complete sensory experience. Each and every step in a pedicure should be performed with the utmost professionalism, care and diligence.
Essential steps Soaking: this is the first step of any pedi service as it cleanses and softens the skin and nails. It is also a good opportunity to use aromatic oils and crystals to hydrate the skin and relax your client. It can also make things a little more pleasant especially if the client’s feet do not smell so great. Soak for between three and five minutes only, as the nail plate
is hydrophilic, and, if it absorbs too much water, the nail enamel will not adhere properly and can peel and chip. Exfoliation: usually performed directly after soaking), the purpose is to remove dead skin cells and impurities and smooth the skin. Exfoliation can be carried out two to three times a week, depending on the client’s skin. Most exfoliating products are applied with the tips of the fingers and are used over the skin’s surface in firm, circular or stroking movements. Callus removal: this is a very effective add-on treatment that has really grown in popularity, with many product brands developing callus removal products and treatments. Gone are the days when we used to take a credo blade to the feet and slice away layers of skin. Using the latest products is a
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much safer way of achieving far more effective and longer-lasting results. However, the new tools need to be used correctly and according to manufacturer’s instructions to make sure there are no adverse effects. When it comes to overly callused skin you need to understand and explain that these products are not magic; your client’s feet did not become callused overnight and it could take more than one treatment to achieve the desired results. Masks: foot masks can have a restructuring, regenerating and hydrating action. They also aid in the desquamation or exfoliation process, leaving the skin feeling cleansed, soft and stimulated. Using hot towels or heated booties can assist with the product penetrating deeper and having a better effect on the skin. V
It’s the use of different types of products and add-on services, along with specialised techniques and equipment, that will take a pedi from a basic service to a more beneficial treatment for the client.
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Pedicure
Soak for between three and five minutes only, as the nail plate is hydrophilic, and, if it absorbs too much water, the nail enamel will not adhere properly and can peel and chip.
Massage: this has many benefits in addition to relaxation and promoting a feeling of well-being. It assists in improving and enhancing the skin’s appearance and allows products to penetrate deeper into the skin. Massage does not require any equipment other than the hands and techniques of a skilled professional. Add your own special touch to your massage routine and remember to keep a smile in your hands while massaging, your clients will most certainly feel it. Moisturising and hydration: for the skin to remain smooth and supple, it should maintain a balanced and adequate moisture level. Using a good quality professional lotion or cream replenishes essential ingredients and adds to the skin’s moisture levels, conditioning it and preventing it from getting callused. Paraffin wax treatments are also very beneficial to add on to a pedi treatment, and, on top of oil or lotion, to assist with extra hydration and penetration of products. Once again heated booties can also be used in conjunction with this treatment.
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Remember that it’s the smallest things that can make the biggest difference. Execute each and
every step of your treatment with professionalism and purpose to produce the perfect pedi.
Pedi don’ts
• Do not work on any skin or
nail condition you are not sure of, as this could lead to crossinfection, rather refer your client to a doctor.
• Do not work on skin which is
inflamed, broken or has any contagious conditions present.
• Do not push the eponychium
(the thickened layer of skin surrounding fingernails and toenails) back too far; use a rolling technique to gently lift the skin instead. This tissue is soft and can tear easily, so harsh manicuring could lead to permanent damage of the matrix and living tissue.
• Do not scrape along the nail plate, as it will damage the plate by removing layers of nail.
• Do not use any sharp
implements to clean under the free edge of the nail as this could tear the hyponychium, which seals the nail bed and free edge, and can result in onycholysis (separation of the nail plate and nail bed.) This condition can leave the nail vulnerable to bacterial or fungal infections and can sometimes take months to repair.
• Do not saw the nail file back
and forth to shape and refine the natural nails.
• Do not file the sidewalls away as
this will lead to the nail being weak and can eventually crack or even break.
• Do not use exfoliating scrubs over cuts, open wounds and sores or post-operative scars.
Pedicure
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Fight that fungus! Clients suffering from a fungal nail infection (mycotic nails) need extra care and specialised treatment. Here’s how to reconstruct a mycotic nail using the LCN Pedique system.
1.
Drop LCN Mykposept underneath the infected nail and remove the lifted infected natural nail using the required LCN tools and equipment. Remove the shine from the remaining natural nail, dust and degrease with Purzellin Swab and LCN Cleaner.
2.
Apply Connex Silver Plus with Connex Brush (ultra-thin) over the natural nail as well as over the infected skin area and leave to air dry completely (+/-2 minutes). Follow with a thin bonding layer using Wilde Pedique Silver Plus and gel brush on the mycotic toe nail and exposed nail bed, creating the bonder/frame onto which the product will be built. Light cure under UV light for 2 minutes.
3.
Apply several building layers of Wilde Pedique Silver Plus with gel brush – section by section – to create an even surface with the product and cure each section under UV light/LCN LED light. Do one complete overlay (on exposed natural nail as well as the existing sections of the product), cure for 2 minutes and then remove sticky layer with a swab saturated in LCN Cleaner.
4.
Use a file to straighten the sides and front. The LCN Quick Step File Unit with Fissure Drill Bit and Electric File Bit is recommended for this step. Buff on top of the product to even and smooth out any bumps, then buff with White Block and seal toe nails using LCN Sealant. Use a dry Purzellin Swab to remove the sticky dispersion. Use the LCN 6-Way Buffer to check for any hooks and smooth them out. Drop Mykosept underneath the toe nail and use a drop of Super Shine Finish Cleaner and the Purzellin Swab to nourish the cuticles and shine the surface.
For home care recommend Mykosept to drop underneath the reconstructed toe nail daily.
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Nail Competition Nail Competition
Winning ways - PB London Nail File’s look at the international competition circuit.
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ail technicians from across the world descended on Excel in February to compete in two days of tough competition in the International Nail Championships at the Professional Beauty London Show. Seasoned nail pros and emerging talents showcased their skills in nail art, spa manicures and enhancements during the contest.
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Nail Competition Nail Competition33
The International Master was judged to be Maria Sirokai
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In the Prod market
Product
Hub
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.
To the rescue!
Clinically tested, CND RescueRXx is a highly effective daily keratin treatment that reduces white spots, splitting and peeling. Ingredients include Jojoba Seed Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis) to increase penetration of other ingredients, and Keratin Proteins that bond to the natural nail to help strengthen the nail plate. 011 791 4027
LED curing lamp
Mini MatchMakers Following the huge success of the Cuccio #Veneer, Star Nail has made the #MatchMaker package of 13ml Veneer LED/ UV Soak Off Gel Polish and 13ml matching Nail Polish into smaller packages of a 3.7ml Mini Cuccio Veneer Gel Polish that also comes with Mini Cuccio Nail Polish for free. 012 751 1207
Bio Sculpture’s all-new LED curing lamp, tested and approved by the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency, has an automatically activated 30-second on/off timer with an optional 10-second timer button. It results in faster curing time, thus allowing more clients per day. 0861 246 435
Fibre power
LCN presents the newest fibre gel technology with a 2-in-1 function. Bonding and sculpting are combined in this new formulation. LCN’s FiberTech Gel presents a highly viscous, very stable sculpting gel with excellent bonding properties. 010 593 3293
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
In the market
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Chilly palette
Tasty collection From Madrid-based brand Crisnail comes the new Delicious Collection. Available on a POP (Point of Purchase) display, Delicious comprises five new delectable colours. They are: Fushia Rio, Pink Romance, Blue Tahiti, Pink Fraise and Mauve Spring. 011 791 4027
This winter Gelish is serving up an arctic storm of cool, shimmery colours that are fearless and bold. The Big Chill 2015 collection offers style-defining picks from a twist on a classic white to a seductive burgundy with subtle shimmers. Six rich, distinctive shades are combined with a long-lasting, chip-free formula. 011 447 0659/3
Masquerade parade
Morgan Taylor’s Midnight Masquerade Winter 2015 Collection includes Vixen in a Mask (sultry scarlet shimmer), Jest-er Kidding (platinum multicolour glitter), Flirting with the Phantom (natural mauve crème), Don’t Rain On My Masquerade (bronze pink glitter), The Big Reveal (deep emerald shimmer) and My Kind Of Ball Gown (vibrant rose crème). 011 447 0659/3
In control KUPA’s MANI-Pro Passport features a lightweight battery power control box that can provide up to 8-10 hours of use per charge in either 110v or 220v. The control box has an illuminated power indicator, variable speed dial, forward and reverse button, and is available in red and white. 011 393 2791
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Know your nail chemicals
The nittygritty of nail polish In the second part of Nail File’s Know your Chemicals series, Sonette van Rensburg takes an in-depth look at the technology behind nail polishes, and what sets them apart from one another.
M
any questions have been raised lately around the safety of nail polishes and the ingredients therein, as consumers are now far more aware of nail polish brands. However, there is so much misinformation and misunderstanding about chemical safety and toxicity, that many people don’t know what is safe anymore. Questions raised include: ‘Is there formaldehyde, toluene or dibutyl phthalate in the product?’ Brands are constantly competing with one another in order to produce the best polish on the market, with just the
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
right combination of chemical ingredients to ensure a formula that offers all the qualities of a good professional nail polish – full coverage, chip-resistant, extended wear, superior shine, and overall flawless finish. Manufacturers and their suppliers continuously test nail polish products and ingredients for quality, performance, and safety, as well as monitor data and reports from nail technicians and consumers. Each brand likes to promote the USP (Unique Selling Points) of their brand, which is what will inevitably sell their product, whether it is because of their colour range or ingredients or both.
Know your nail chemicals
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The truth about formaldehyde Internationally renowned product chemist Douglas D. Schoon believes that some advocacy groups globally are incorrectly claiming that formaldehyde is an ingredient in cosmetics.
“They are even loudly proclaiming that formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and are demanding that manufacturers remove this cancer-causing ingredient from cosmetics,” says Schoon. “Actually, if these groups understood formaldehyde’s basic chemistry, they would see their claims are absolutely wrong. They’d also know that formaldehyde is not a cosmetic ingredient and never has been.
Ingredients Most nail polishes consist of a combination of: Pigment – used to create and add colour and also assists with coverage. Film-former – assists in making the polish durable and shiny. The most common filmformer is nitrocellulose. An interesting fact is that the film for old-fashioned black-andwhite movies is made of nitrocellulose. Resin – makes polish tough and resilient. Tosylamide – very commonly used in most nail polish brands. Solvent – most brands use a combination of butyl acetate, ethyl acetate and toluene for easy application. Solvents are also used in nail polish removers. Clay – aids with suspension and helps to keep the ingredients mixed and makes polish easier to apply. V
“Advocacy groups incorrectly claim that formaldehyde is an ingredient found in nail hardeners, and nail polishes. So, how can I be so sure that formaldehyde has never been a cosmetic ingredient? Because formaldehyde is a gas, not a liquid or a solid. A gas cannot be added to cosmetics as an ingredient, since it would rapidly escape from the product.” Schoon notes that formaldehyde is a naturally occurring gas that must be kept absolutely bone dry. In the presence of even tiny amounts of moisture, it instantly transforms into completely different substances. “This is why it quickly breaks down and doesn’t accumulate in the environment. As you can imagine, this is yet another reason why formaldehyde can’t be used in cosmetics; it wouldn’t be stable for more than 1000th of a second after contact with moisture. How did this misunderstanding begin? Sometime in the early 1900s, formaldehyde manufacturers began mixing this gas with water to create a liquid substance called ‘formalin’. “These manufacturers mistakenly assumed that the added formaldehyde was simply dissolving in the water and this is how formalin was sold. They didn’t realise that formaldehyde does not dissolve in water, but instead instantly reacts with the water to change into a completely new and different substance called methylene glycol, which belongs to an entirely separate chemical family.”
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Know your nail chemicals
Plasticiser – helps with preventing chips and cracks. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) has been used for many decades as a nail polish plasticiser. It is also used in soft toys, baby bottles and tubes for dispensing food and medicine. UV stabiliser – prevents sun and light from fading or changing the colour. Do most professional salon brands contain the same ingredients? Mostly they do, however each manufacturer differs in the quantities of ingredients and solvents they add to their product. These ingredients have been used by nail polish brands for decades now. The same primary ingredients are used in most base and top coats, with the exception of clays and pigments.
Are nail polishes safe? Contrary to what is being said and produced, nail polish products have been used safely for decades by many woman across the globe. The natural nail is made up of keratin, a non-living hard durable substance that is oil- and moisture-loving. Nail polish dries to a hard durable surface, and, once the ingredients in the polish become embedded in the
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Manufacturers and their suppliers continuously test nail polish products and ingredients.
hardened film coating, they are not absorbed by the body or released into the environment.
Most polishes are a combination of plasticisers, resins, UV stabilisers and solvents to give a high-quality, high-shine and chip-free product.
Most polishes are a combination of plasticisers, resins, UV stabilisers and solvents to give a high-quality, high-shine and chip-free product. Plasticisers are additives that maintain the flexibility of resins after they have dried. They are a sort of a molecular ‘lubricant’, which make the resin less vulnerable to chipping. Resins are a type of polymer that holds the polish together. They are composed of giant molecules that are made by linking smaller molecules into long chains and networks. After the polish has been applied, the solvent component of the polish evaporates to leave behind a smooth, hard coat of lacquer. Because it evaporates, the solvent is responsible for the strong odour that polishes
emit. Solvents must be compatible with resins, so that the resins can be evenly spread on the nail. Those solvents that evaporate too slowly or too quickly can ruin the lacquer or cause bubbling. UV stabilisers are additives that help keep lacquers from changing colour when exposed to too much UV light from the sun.
Flip Nail Art
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When nail art flips In the inaugural issue of Nail File, we reported on the growing overseas trend of applying nail art onto the underside of the nail. Here Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to a local nail technician who has been following the trend.
J
ess Scott-Turner of Petit Papillon Nails in Honeydew Ridge, Johannesburg, was initially inspired to do flip nail art when she was shown a set of Louboutin nails during an NSI course. “I was fascinated by these black nails that were painted red underneath, just like the soles of Christian Louboutin shoes,” says Scott-Turner. “Then I saw the set of nails that celebrity manicurist Tom Bachik did on Jennifer Lopez, with Swarovski crystals underneath her nails, for the 2015 Grammy Awards. It was so beautiful, eye-catching and elegant that I had to try it! “For my first set I did long, almond-shaped nails, with red and black French manicure detail, and red on the underside of the nails. The first set I did with gems was just after the Golden Globes. I reposted the pic and not long after that I was asked to do a set
with pink and white rhinestones. “Sometimes I do plain colours, sometimes glitter, sometimes gems. I think the next thing I will try is a pattern, perhaps plain nails with flowers or cherry blossoms painted underneath.” Scott-Turner uses only NSI products in her salon. “Depending on the client, I use Attraction Acrylic and Secrets Acrylic systems by NSI. For colours and for the underside of the nails, I use the NSI gel polish system, Polish Pro. For flip nail art you have the option (if doing sculptured acrylic) to put the colour or glitter down with acrylic and doing a different
colour on top of it. Normally I do my enhancements as normal and then use the gel polish underneath the nail (tips or natural nail). I secure the gems using a big blob of gel and nail glue.” Nail art embellishments are sourced from Nail Trinkets, a nail art brand available from NSI Johannesburg, Nail Candi and Planet Nails. “The demand for flip nail art is definitely increasing,” comments Scott-Tuner. “Although trends tend to get to South Africa a year later, social media ensures that we are catching up more quickly. I love how our adventurous my clients have become.” Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
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Step by Step
Stained
Glass
This stained glass winter mosaic nail art look can be achieved with Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish.
1.
After completing the Gelish nail prep, apply a thin coat of Foundation and cure for five seconds in the 18G LED light. Using a dry gel brush, remove excess product.
2.
Apply a thin coat of The Big Chill to the nail surface, making sure to cap the free edge. Cure in the 18G LED light for 30 seconds. Apply a second coat of The Big Chill, making sure to cap the free edge and cure in the 18G LED light for 30 seconds.
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3. Using a Gel Striper Brush and Black Shadow, draw thin intersecting deep ‘V’ lines from the cuticle towards the free edge, farther down the nail from the sidewall to the free edge, and from the centre of the cuticle area to the free edge. Cure in the 18G LED light for 30 seconds.
Step by Step
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4.
Using a Mini Gel Striper Brush and Call Me Jill Frost, fill in the top diamond shape created by the intersecting lines. With a clean Mini Striper Brush and Ice Skate, You Skate, We All Skate, fill in the top 2 triangle sections on either side of the nail. Using My Jewels Keep Me Warm fill in the centre ‘V’ shape, just below the diamond. With I’m Snow Angel, fill in the 2 triangles on either side of the centre ‘V’ shape. Using Snowflakes & Skyscrapers fill in the bottom 2 triangles. Cure in the 18G LED light for 30 seconds.
7.
Apply Top It Off to the entire nail, capping the free edge. Cure in the 18G LED light for 30 seconds. Cleanse the inhibition layer from the nail using Nail Surface Cleanse and a Wipe It Off.
5.
Apply Matte Top It Off to the entire nail surface and cure in the 18G LED light for 30 seconds. Cleanse the inhibition layer from the nail, using Nail Surface Cleanse and a Wipe It Off.
6.
Using a Gel Striper Brush outline the shapes on the nail with Black Shadow. Cure in the 18G LED light for 30 seconds. Let the nail rest for 30 seconds and then press gold transfer foil over the lines, applying pressure and pulling quickly away leaving the foil only on the lines of Black Shadow.
8.
Massage Nourish Cuticle Oil into the skin surrounding the nail plate and enjoy your finished nail art look.
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Step by Step
S.s.s.snakeskin! This unusual snakeskin-esque look can be created with products from Young Nails.
1.
After preparing the natural nail with Protein Bond and applying the sculpture form, use clear acrylic powder to sculpture the free edge very thinly into a stiletto shape. Then bond acrylic with the natural nail and remove the form.
2.
Use Earth Tone Warm Gold art powder and brush thinly over extension.
4.
Place Rainbow Orange and Black art powders randomly onto the extension.
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5.
Cap with clear powder.
3.
Use Golden Orange Mix and apply behind the art powder, also very thinly.
Step byNails Step Occasion
6.
Make impressions with Into You Netting.
7. 8.
9.
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Fill the impressions with Black Art Powder.
Create the c-curve with the Magic Wand.
File into the desired shape to finish off.
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Step by Step
Midnight
Masquerade
This intriguing and bejewelled look was created by Morgan Taylor.
1.
Apply a coat of Stick With It base coat to the nail surface and around the free edge.
2.
Apply a coat of Vixen In A Mask to the nail surface and around the free edge. Apply a second coat for full coverage.
4.
3.
Create a round jewellery shape from the centre of the free edge using Flirting With The Phantom. Apply Jest-er Kidding on top of the jewellery shape.
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Using the small side of the Harmony TA02 marbling tool, etch a ‘C’ shape on the right side and a backwards facing one on the left side through to the Vixen In A Mask layer.
5.
Using the large side of the Harmony TA05 marbling tool and My Kind Of Ball Gown, create an oval in the centre of the jewellery shape.
Step by Step
6.
Apply a coat of Make It Last top coat to the nail surface and around the free edge.
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7.
Apply small dots of Secure Nail Adhesive on the outside perimeter of the jewellery shape. Using a wax pencil, apply the Crystal SS3 Swarovski crystals to those dots. Next apply Secure Nail Adhesive to the top of the rounded shape and to either side, apply Light Turquoise SS7 Swarovski crystals to those dots. Apply Secure Nail Adhesive to the centre of the My Kind Of Ball Gown oval and apply the Indian Pink SS14 Swarovski crystal to that dot.
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Q&A
Top Tech Talk In this issue of Nail File, we put the spotlight on award-winning nail technician, Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren.
What first turned you onto nails? As a little girl, my mother always used to have her nails done. I loved to go with her every time to see how it was done. Although I studied for a B-Com after school and got my degree, I felt that it wasn’t what I wanted to do; I kept going back to the nail industry. And that’s when I realised I wanted to be a nail technician.
For how long have you worked in the nail industry? I did my first course in October 1991, with Dream Nails in Johannesburg. This year will be my 24th year in the nail industry.
Please tell us about your career I’ve been self-employed for the past 15 years, and have a homebased salon because of my working hours. In terms of training
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
courses, I completed a course in Somatology at TUT (Tshwane University of Technology). I also did a course in gel, but kept on going back to liquid and powder sculpting. In 2001 and 2002, I presented training in sculptured acrylics at Nails4U in Sinoville, Pretoria.
What brand/s do you enjoy working with? I use Nails4U products, simply because the system is very smooth, strong and nonyellowing. It is affordable for me, as well as my clients.
What would you say is your speciality in the industry? Women are very emotional and like to share everything that it is going on in their lives. It is
Q&A
very important for them to know that they can talk to me about anything, and it will stay between us. They feel so much better emotionally and beautiful at the same time. I have learnt to always give my best, to always be on time and to remain humble. This is what makes clients keep coming back. I love to judge sculptured acrylics at competitions because that’s what I specialise in, in my salon.
Which awards have you won? In 1995 I took part in my first competition, held by Dream Nails. I took 1st place in that competition and my prize was to take part in a competition in the Seychelles, where I also took 1st place.
I took part in the Beauty Africa competitions and in 2004 took 1st place in their regional competition, as well as the championships, in freeform sculpting. With the start of the Professional Beauty Show in 2004, I took 1st place in freeform sculpting, and did the same in the 2005 and 2006
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competitions. In 2007 and 2008, I took 1st place in freeform sculpting as well as being the overall winner. The following year I took 1st place in freeform sculpting, as well as being tip overlay and overall winner. In 2011 I took 1st place in the Professionals Category (where I also did freeform sculpting) at Professional Beauty. I was also V
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Q&A
What has been your career highlight? The highlight of my career was definitely when I was invited to judge the Beauty World Middle East Dubai competition in 2012. What a wonderful experience!
a judge that year and in 2012 as well. The following year I took 1st place in the Masters category, as well as being overall winner and in 2014, I was placed 2nd in the Masters category. In terms of international competitions, in 2008 I had the privilege of taking part in the Beauty World Middle East Dubai competition, where I took 2nd place.
Nail File Issue 2 June 2015
In 2008 , Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren took 2nd place in the Beauty World Middle East Dubai competition.
Please describe the best example of nail art that you’ve ever seen. The best example of nail art, in my opinion, is 3D sculpting. It is amazing to see what you can do with the liquid and powder. You can fantasise and really play with the product.
What advice would you give anyone wanting to become a nail technician? Patience, patience, patience! It takes a lot of patience and practice with the product. You can’t force the issue because your skills will only develop over time. If you give your best every day and are always there for your clients, to help them when they need you, they will keep coming back. You have to stay in touch with new products, attend courses regularly and take part
in competitions. Remember that competitions aren’t about winning so much as seeing where you can improve on your work.
Why do you think women the world over are obsessed with their nails? Although it’s important for a woman to go for regular facials, pedicures and waxing, nails are the one treatment where you can actually see the results immediately. For a woman to have her nails done is part of her personality and finishes off her outfit. In this day and age, it is actually strange to still see a woman without manicured nails. Even if a woman has her oldest clothes on, and is without make-up, she just feels much more confident and cared for if her nails are done.
Calgel
Discover the benefits of Bio Sculpture Gel: Suitable for both beginners and experienced nail technicians with over 140 UV & LED curable colours Comprehensive training countrywide with full ongoing support Nails remain healthy and undamaged, NO primers, bonders, odours or excessive buffing Nails can be repaired, lengthened, corrected and shaped, lasting up to 3 weeks - natural nail health enhancing pre-treatments Strong and flexible non-chip finish protecting the natural nail - the only 5 star safety rated nail system that is 100% Vegan 0861 246 435
biosculpture.com
Calgel
Discover the benefits of Bio Sculpture Gel: Suitable for both beginners and experienced nail technicians with over 140 UV & LED curable colours Comprehensive training countrywide with full ongoing support Nails remain healthy and undamaged, NO primers, bonders, odours or excessive buffing Nails can be repaired, lengthened, corrected and shaped, lasting up to 3 weeks - natural nail health enhancing pre-treatments Strong and flexible non-chip finish protecting the natural nail - the only 5 star safety rated nail system that is 100% Vegan 0861 246 435
biosculpture.com