Issue 1
Mar/Apr 2015
Budget boffin
How to price nail art
Go figure Most popular
nail shapes
In the mood Marsala tones
Strain drain
Preventing and treating CTDs
What’s inside Nail File
4
10
14
20
Industry News
Style Savvy
10
22
Ask the Experts
Nail Trends
14
27
Salon Focus
Health Hints
Stay in the know
The value of nail art
Behind the wall – Skin & Nail Lounge
18 Flip Nail Art
The underside of nail art Shoe designer-inspired nail polish
The magic of Marsala
Shape up, or ship out
How to beat that CTD
30 In the Market Product Hub
22
20 32
Winning Ways North Nail Championships
34 Know Your Chemicals
It’s all in the chemistry
36 Step by Step Flower power
38 Top Tech Talk
Q&A with Tracey Owgan
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Issue 1
Mar/Apr 2015
Budget Boffin
How to price nail art
Go fiGure Most popular
nail shapes
Welcome
in the mood Marsala tones
Strain drain
Preventing and treating CTDs
NAIL FILE A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com
Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za Art Director Ursula Wong ursula@probeauty.co.za Senior Sales Executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za
T
he Professional Beauty team is delighted to present the inaugural issue of our exciting new supplement, Nail File. It is no secret that nail services are the biggest revenuegenerator in the beauty industry globally, so it is fitting that the South African nail sector has a magazine of this nature dedicated entirely to it. It is our aim to cover all aspects of the industry in Nail File, including local and international news; trends; salons; nail technicians/stylists/therapists; the latest nail, manicure & pedicure products and technologies on the market; and training. Our goal is to be the voice of the industry. This is your magazine, so please give us feedback on what you think of it and what you would like to see going forward.
I would like to thank regular Professional Beauty contributing writer and industry expert, Sonette van Rensburg, for her guidance in conceiving the Nail File ethos, and art director Ursula Wong for making the magazine look so amazing. We trust you will enjoy the read.
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
To advertise in Nail File, please call Charlene To contr ibute to editorial, contact Joanna To join the conversation Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
Caption™ polish is formulated with LacQ3, a next generation multi-patented proprietary technology that delivers a flawless air-cured gel-like manicure with unrivaled shine, superior durability and instant hassle-free removal. LacQ3 technology combines an innovative triple layer fusion of dual polymer, technology, volcanic glass, shellac and plant-derived plasticizers to create an advanced nail care system that is as durable as gel, dries three times faster to a touch-dry finish without a UV or LED light and fortifies brittle nails over time. Ultra pigmented manicures stay chip free for up to nine days while nails grow stronger and healthier.
Contact us today for the distributor’s number in your area 011 393 2791 (Option 2) All salon’s & spa’s are welcome to purchase
4
News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips
Nail art first for Bio Sculpture South African nail brand Bio Sculpture Gel recently launched its first-ever Nail Art Manual. According to Bio Sculpture founder Elmien Scholtz, the manual has proved a great success. “Bio Sculpture’s local educators have already started using the manual for their training. It will also be used in different countries worldwide.” She notes that the manual, which took five months to create, was prompted by market demand. “Like fashion around the world, nail art fashion varies from season to season. Our manual inspires, empowers and assists the therapist to live up to her client’s nail art wishes and expectations. “With the manual we have targeted different fashion trends and personality types in order to fulfil different lifestyle desires. Nail art is an exciting extra that is additional to gel overlays.” Pauline van der Merwe wrote, designed and did the photography for the manual. The nail art was created by Tania Oliver, Pauline Niehaus and Minell van der Merwe, along with Bio Sculpture’s nail therapists worldwide. An exclusive introduction in the manual is dedicated to definitions involving colour. “Pauline wanted to teach each nail technician how to analyse different skin tones to determine which colour complements the client best,” explains
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Scholtz. “She shared her knowledge regarding colour combinations and how to reflect fashion trends and design in nail art.” Some of the step by step nail art techniques in the manual include: Different techniques done with wet gel; flowers and hand painting; glitter art; nail jewellery, spiralling, mosaic art; and cartoon art.
News
5
iZ now in Africa UK-based Izabelle Hammon, home to iZ Beauty of London, now offers professionals in Africa a wide range of nail art, including trend-led collections of 1-phase gels, nail decals, studs, nail art pens, neon powders, glitters, tools and embellishments. The iZ Beauty of London product range will be showcased at Professional Beauty Johannesburg, which runs from 30 to 31 August at Gallagher Estate. Says Angela Rautenbach, director of Izabelle Hammon Africa: “We are very excited about our entry into the African market. I look forward to building relationships and empowering professionals
with quality products and tools that will see them increase their profits, reduce treatment times and improve their business models.” She stresses that Izabelle Hammon is renowned for her knowledge and expertise. “iZ Beauty has fashioned an iconic following among beauty professionals with the aim of creating products that suit each individual with a customised twist. The iconic collections are developed from the catwalk, key trends and unique celebrity style which can then be translated into anyone’s individual style.” Contact 031 537 3585 or 084 619 8983
Crisnail takes off Spanish nail brand Crisnail, launched in South Africa late last year by Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS), is now found in over 60 local salons, which offer the brand’s latest gel polish, Gel Revolution. Says EBS’ Crisnail brand manager George Aldrich: “The feedback from our stockists is very positive and I believe Crisnail will become one of the most sought-after nail ranges in South Africa. It is very high quality and affordable.” According to Aldrich, Crisnail is the number one nail brand in Europe. Aldrich was recently invited to participate on the Crisnail stand for DRV Global at the Cosmoprof Bologna Show in Italy.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
6
News Industry News
IBX System - ‘Most Innovative Idea’ Famous Names’ IBX System has received the Most Innovative Idea for 2014 accolade in the Schoon Scientific & Regulatory Consulting LLC Innovation Awards. Says Doug Schoon, internationallyrecognised scientist, author, educator and co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council (NMC): “Without a doubt, the most scientifically advanced products in the beauty industry are artificial nail coatings. For the first time, Famous Names takes this high technology inside the nail plate to toughen and protect it from within. These products absorb into the upper layers of the nail plate and then join together to create a super tough protective shield for nails. “The system can also repair surface damage, seal cracks and fill grooves in the nail plate. It also improves adhesion of nail coatings, including nail polish.” First Runner Up in the 2014 Innovation Awards is Chemical Source Capture Systems by Aerovex Systems. “Their equipment consists of well-designed ventilation systems that make the performance of any salon service much safer including artificial nails, keratin hair smoothing treatments, laser hair removal treatments and any other salon service that generates vapors and/or dusts. “Aerovex Systems promote total salon air quality solutions through their ‘Three Zone Protection’ salon ventilation approach, which helps to ensure high quality air throughout the salon, not just one station or chair,” explains Schoon. Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Nail Academy ‘sparkles’ The Sparkle Nail Academy, launched in June 2014, has generated ‘an incredible response’ from salon owners and therapists, according to Sparkle’s Cape Town director, Romy Pfaff. “We have had the privilege of training over 1000 learners at the Academy to date. The South African industry recognises that no matter where you are on your professional path, whether you are a long-time professional or a newcomer to the world of nails, constant training and revision is imperative to maintain an international standard. “Sparkle Nail Academy has a clear vision to raise the standard of nail education in South Africa, increasing skill levels and employment opportunities of nail therapists and technicians nationwide,” states Pfaff. She notes that the academy has three dynamic lecturers – two in Johannesburg and one in Cape Town.
“Gelish Nail Design is our most popular course,” continues Pfaff. “With 19 different designs it is a wonderful way for learners to regain passion and increase their skill, offering a unique treatment to their clients. “In February we launched an exciting course – Back to Basic ProHesion Acrylic Training. This involves going back to the basics and perfecting your acrylic nail techniques to create flawless nails to international standards.” The course consists of two intensive training sessions, where the Sparkle educator assists the learner to create exceptional ProHesion acrylic nails.
Calgel New Product Information 3 new addtions to our permanent range of colours
Launch date 2015.4.20
To order, please speak to your local Calgel distributor or contact our head oďŹƒce. Website:www.cal-mo.com
Facebook:https://www.facebook.com/CalgelSOUTHAFRICA
Tel:011-624-1101
You have what it takes to WIN! What are you waiting for?
Enter your Nail Salon
Nail Salon category sponsored by
Calgel
The winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Dinner on 30 August 2015. This is the most prestigious and established awards ceremony for the beauty, spa and nail industry in South Africa, acknowledging those who have made a real difference to the industry.
CATEGORIES ARE • Therapist of the Year • Salon of the Year (3 rooms or less) • Salon of the Year (4 rooms or more) • Day Spa of the Year • Nail Salon of the Year • Spa/Salon Manager of the Year • Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year • Aesthetic Clinic of the Year
The deadline for all entries is 24 April 2015 Enter online by simply visiting www.probeauty.co.za and clicking on the ‘Awards’ tab.
News
9
LCN Awards The second Annual Looking Good LCN Awards were held at Stone Cradle, Rietfontein, in Pretoria on 21 February.
Says LCN’s Yvette Nel: “We created the awards to honour and motivate our long-standing loyal customers, as well as the new up-and-coming customers.” Thirty-eight awards were handed out on the night. Isabel Fenner and Lea Castro, owners of Looking Good LCN, presented the awards.
Obituary – Vicki Peters It is with sadness that Nail File reports on the passing of international nail industry icon Vicki Peters, who died on 31 December 2014, aged 60. A master nail technician, the award-winning Peters wowed the industry with her championship nail expertise and professional authority throughout a career that spanned more than 25 years. As a cover artist and author, her exquisite work was published worldwide, more than any other nail service professional in the history of the nail business. As a global educator, Peters trained technicians in Africa, The Netherlands, Russia, China, Germany, Japan, Ireland, UK,
Canada, Mexico, Australia, Italy, Croatia, The Czech Republic, Greece, Cyprus, Trinidad and the US. She pioneered the first live online educational programme, developing effective educational programmes. For 15 years Peters worked with a variety of magazines, including Scratch and Professional Beauty. She penned several books, including the Nails Q&A Book, Drilltalk, The Competitive Edge and The Nail Healthy Guide for Novartis, makers of Lamisil.
Following Peters’ passing, Alex Fox of Scratch wrote: “Vicki cared about people and she cared about nails, and when she brought those
two things together she was ‘the Master of all Nail Ceremonies’.”
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
10
Ask the Experts
The value of
NAIL In this inaugural edition of Nail File, we asked three local and international industry experts to respond to the following question – HOW DO I PRICE NAIL ART IN MY SALON?
Katia Da Silva There are many ways to price nail art and finding a way that suits you and your client is important. Nail art has become an ‘add on’ must in all nail services, thus making it a good opportunity to make extra money. I like to categorise my nail art into two main categories. That way my client understands and appreciates that there is a difference in skill, time and price. A fast, easy and trendy form of nail art is Nail Embellishments – gems, 3D bling bows, studs, pearls, chains, charms and nail jewels. It requires minimal skill and yet adds elegance and fun to your nail service. It is best to sell Nail Embellishments as a retail item, and not charge for application,
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Ask the Experts
11
ART as it only takes five minutes. When I use embellishments in my nail art, I do not charge for the application, however, I do put a minimum 50% mark up as a retail item. For example: If I purchase one bling bow for R15, my retail price would be R30 to the client. Another category of nail art would be any form of hand painting, such as lines, basic outline, one-stroke designs and details patterns. This form of nail art requires a certain amount of skill and time. Some designs could take 10 minutes, whereas others could take up to 30 minutes. In this case it is wise to charge per finger. For example, if
you are charging R350 for a set of nail extensions and it takes 90 minutes, divide the rand value over the treatment time. The per minute value would be R3.88. Practise on a nail and test how long it would take to complete, then multiply your time by your per minute rand value, eg if I take 10 minutes then I would charge R38 per nail for a design. I would recommend having a showcase box in your salon with nail tips pre-made with various designs. Work out your costing per design and add a price tag to it for clients to see. V
Katia Da Silva is an award-winning NSI expert and master educator. She is the coowner of the NSI JHB Products Depot and School.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
12
Ask Askthe theExperts Expert
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 25 years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
Sonette van Rensburg Nail art is making its appearance on celebrities’ nails and proving to be a very popular trend on the international catwalks. Clients are far more aware of what is available these days and are requesting a variety of different styles and trends which they may come across on the internet or social media.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
So, how do you know if you have your pricing structure correct, especially when clients want something very specific? Most of the services you offer in your salon are charged at a fixed price, depending whether the client adds anything on to enhance their treatment. Nail art, however, is one service for which you can’t really have a set price, as various factors influence exactly what you should charge and will vary from client to client. Basic nail art can be charged at a more set price and be easy for clients to calculate. For instance, when using rhinestones and
striping tape, each item will cost you a certain amount, which you can then charge for depending on how much you use for each nail and per design. Don’t forget to add on extra for polish, acrylic paint, glitter or other materials. When exploring your artistic flare, you need to consider the time spent to create a design, as well as the creativity and uniqueness of your design. What you charge will be entirely up to whether you charge by the minute or by the hour. Be careful not to undercut yourself though, as your experience and how sought-after your work is will also be a factor to consider.
Ask the Experts
13
Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail technician and educator. She is an international judge and competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd.
Sam Biddle Nail art is becoming very popular again, and we are seeing a growing trend on London’s high streets for nails to be embellished. Simple nail art in the salon is a great way of boosting your income and doesn’t have to take long at all.
To find out how much to charge depends on the amount of time it takes you to apply the design. The time you calculate is based on your hourly rate divided into 15-minute segments. For example, if it takes you 1.5 hours to apply a set of nails and you charge £40, then your hourly rate is £26.50. Divide this by four and it gives you 15
minutes at approximately £6.50. So, if it takes you 30 minutes to apply some nail art it will cost your client £13.00. To start marketing your nail art I would suggest you give your clients a free nail art treatment. Display your designs on a board at your nail desk and remember that the most important piece of marketing is to wear the designs yourself.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
14
Salon Focus
Behind the wall
A mutually beneficial cross-over arrangement with an adjacent hair salon has seen an influx in manicure and pedicure business for the Skin & Nail Lounge at the Bryan Park Shopping Centre in Johannesburg, writes Joanna Sterkowicz. Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Salon Focus
15
W
hen stepping into the business-like reception area of the Skin & Nail Lounge you don’t suspect that beyond this lies a glamorous and roomy space devoted to all things nail. Four deluxe, wing-backed armchairs covered in a luxurious silver-grey fabric reside on a raised platform and line one side of the wall, while the opposite wall is almost entirely flanked by a purple velvet couch several metres in length. There are four manicure tables in front of the sofa, with iconic ‘ghost chairs’ for the therapists, who also perform gel applications, acrylic enhancements and nail art. The armchair side of the lounge is devoted to pedicures, with silver champagne bowls serving as foot basins. “Our nail lounge is what we refer to as ‘behind the wall’, explains owner Gina Gall. “The idea was not to let passers-by or people who come into the reception area see the lounge so as to ensure privacy for clients. “In terms of décor and furnishings, we set out to create a serene and calm area that would be like an elegant lounge in someone’s home. We wanted this to be an oasis for people to come here for an hour of downtime and feel pampered.” Gall designed the furniture together with her husband, James. The Spa Consultants and Vanessa Preston at VaRoom Interiors helped to set up the lounge in the short timeframe of two months. The entire salon, including two beauty treatment rooms, is 100 square metres in area. V Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
16
Salon Focus
Captive market Gall was a long-time client of the adjacent hairdressing salon, Beautyline, long before she opened the Skin & Nail Lounge in November 2012.
Jess Ender performs a pedicure.
“Once my lounge was up and running, I entered into discussions with Beautyline owner Christel Wortche to see if we could create a synergy between our two businesses,” notes Gall. “We now do manis and pedis for Christel’s clients who come to her for their colour days. Our therapists go to Beautyline to perform the treatments. It’s got to the stage where Christel’s clients now phone us to make appointments when they want to come into Beautyline for colour treatments. Hair and nails is a great synergy.”
Competitive edge Gall’s salon manager Gill Wagemaker stresses that a big point of difference between Skin & Nail Lounge and other nail salons is the personal approach. “We’re not a sausage factory,” she states. “The emphasis is on getting to know our clients and accommodating their needs to the best of our ability. We always make a plan for customers, even if they are walk-ins. All of our clients are special to us.” Nail therapists are Jess Ender, Larinda Vertigan and Ntombi Khumalo. The lounge stocks OPI, IBD and Milk Solutions. Commenting on the lounge’s signature treatment – the Luxury Lava Shell Manicure and/or Pedicure, Gall says: “We wanted to offer this treatment as it’s totally different Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Salon Focus
17
“We set out to create a serene and calm area that would be like an elegant lounge in someone’s home.” Gina Gall
PRO-FORMANCE PRO-FORMANCE HARD GEL HARD GEL HARD GELTechnology Featuring Diamond Strength Featuring Diamond Strength Technology INTRODUCING THE ALL ALL NEW Featuring Diamond Strength Technology INTRODUCING THE NEW
INTRODUCING INTRODUCING THE THE ALL ALL NEW NEW
UV/LED UV/LED PRO-FORMANCE PRO-FORMANCE
INTRODUCING THE ALL NEW
UV/LED
PRO-FORMANCE HARD GEL GEL HARD GEL FeaturingHARD Diamond Strength Technology PRO-FORMANCE Featuring Diamond Strength Technology Featuring Featuring Diamond Diamond Strength Strength Technology Technology
HARD GEL Also Available
Also Available Featuring Diamond Strength Technology Also Available
UV/LED UV/LED UV/LED
OPTIONS OPTIONS OPTIONS SOAK OFF SOAK SOAK OFF OFF
Also Available With over 130Also colours to choose from Available With over 130Also colours to choose from Also Available Available With over 130UV/LED colours to choose from
UV/LED UV/LED OPTIONS
OPTIONS Also Available OPTIONS SOAK OFF SOAK OFF SOAK OFF UV/LED
With over 130 colours to choose from With over 130 colours to choose from With over over 130 130 colours colours to to choose choose from from With
OPTIONS
to what other nail salons offer. The lava shells, which are supplied by Spa Indulgence, are the size of a hand. We put a tea bag packed with minerals (magnesium, iron, black lava, dried kelp and sea algae) into the shell, which then stays hot for an hour.” She notes that the lounge is in the process of building up its male nail clientele, who mostly come in for pedicures but sometimes have manicures as well. Gall and Wagemaker have placed a huge emphasis on sterilisation and hygiene. The Skin & Nail Lounge’s protocol dictates that therapists sterilise all mani and pedi instruments prior to use on each client. “We have developed a protocol to make sure our enhancements or gel applications stay on as long as possible. In addition we’ve taught our therapists to analyse the client’s nails. So they would suggest nail supplements or nail tissue salts, when necessary,” concludes Gall. The Bryan Park Shopping Centre is newly renovated, which has increased traffic to the lounge. Nail File Issue 01 March/April 2015
SOAK OFF With over 130 colours to choose from
Also Available Also Available Also Available
UV/LED UV/LED UV/LED
LUXIO Also Available Also Available LUXIO Also LUXIO Also Available Available UV/LED SOAK OFF UV/LED SOAK OFF UV/LED SOAK OFF LUXIO LUXIO LUXIO
100% Gel in a polish bottle 100% Gel in a polish bottle With 100% over 100 to choose Gel colours in a polish bottle from SOAK OFF With over SOAK 100 coloursOFF to choose from With over SOAK 100 to choose from OFF Alsocolours Available 100% Gel in a polish bottle 100% Gel in a polish bottle 100% Gel colours in aa polish polish bottle from With100% over 100 to choose Gel in bottle With over 100 colours to choose from With over over 100 100 colours colours to to choose choose from from With
UV/LED
LUXIO SOAK OFF
100% Gel in a polish bottle With over 100 colours to choose from
www.akzentz.com www.akzentz.com www.akzentz.com www.akzentz.com © HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC. www.akzentz.com www.akzentz.com © HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC. www.akzentz.com © HAIGH INC. © HAIGHINDUSTRIES INDUSTRIES INC.
© HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC. © HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC.
©AFFAIR HAIGH INDUSTRIES INC. TEL: 011728.8060 S.A. Distributor NAIL S.A. Distributor NAIL AFFAIRcorp corp || TEL: 011728.8060 S.A. Distributor NAIL AFFAIRcorp corp || TEL: S.A. Distributor NAIL AFFAIR TEL:011728.8060 011728.8060 S.A. Distributor NAIL AFFAIR corp | TEL: 011728.8060 CELL: 0826546524 | EMAIL: moirac@mweb.co.za |www.nailaffair.co.za www.nailaffair.co.za CELL: | EMAIL: moirac@mweb.co.za | 011728.8060 S.A.0826546524 Distributor NAIL AFFAIR corp | TEL: S.A. Distributor NAILmoirac@mweb.co.za AFFAIR corp | TEL: 011728.8060 CELL: 0826546524 | EMAIL: | www.nailaffair.co.za CELL: 0826546524 | EMAIL: moirac@mweb.co.za www.nailaffair.co.za CELL: 0826546524 | EMAIL: moirac@mweb.co.za | |www.nailaffair.co.za
18
Flip Nail Art
The
underside of nail art The latest nail trend originating from America to hit British shores is flip nail art, writes Lucy Douglas.
After spotting a stunning gold leaf and confetti-adorned reverse nail art design by US technician Naja Rickette – aka The Nail Guru – Professional Beauty UK decided to ask salons if their clients had caught on yet. They found that one in eight nail salons are saying that clients are already asking after flip nail art.
Flip nail art is best done on extensions for a long enough, strong canvas for the design.
Pic source: Naja Rickette (Instagram)
T
he nail industry’s innovative and adventurous technicians are always looking for weird and wonderful ways to turn nails into mini works of art, and this latest craze, as its name suggests, has technicians styling the underside of the nail, so clients have something to show off from every angle.
Designer shoe label Christian Louboutin has just launched Loubi Under Red in the US, a polish for the underside of nails, in the signature red colour that appears on the soles of Louboutin’s iconic shoes. It uses a specially designed nail-art style brush to help to apply polish accurately without covering the end of your client’s fingers in nail polish.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Pic source: news.instyle.com
Since then a host of designs have been spotted on Instagram, from the simple and stylish vampy red, to gold leaf, to the bold and brilliant jewel-encrusted.
Flip Nail Art
19
Shoe designer-inspired
nail polish After seeing an image of British singer Adele’s nails at the Grammy Awards way back in 2012, I fell in love with the Louboutin-esque nail look, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
A
dele wore her Christian Louboutin-esque nails to match her shoes, little knowing that her nails would become so famous. The top side of Adele’s nails were covered in silver glitter polish, while the underside was painted red, just like the iconic soles of Louboutin shoes. Being a lover of shoes myself, I remember translating a pair of Louboutin shoes into a nail look. The shape of the nail was stiletto (of course) and the base was electric blue encrusted with coloured stones, while the underside of the free edge of the nail was painted in bright red, just like Louboutin soles. At the time we used whatever nail polish brand we could get our hands on to create the Louboutin-esque look. However, when Louboutin realised people were professionally creating this look to mimic his iconic sole, he decided to develop Loubi Under, a felt tip-like red undercoat to recreate those Louboutin sole manicures. Since the classic red shade was developed Louboutin has
launched four different nail polish colour collections in a beautifully shaped bottle with a stiletto-inspired lid. Says Louboutin: “I have decided to give back to nails what the stiletto took from nails.” The most amazing and incredible sight to see was the display of Louboutin’s polish range when he first launched it at Saks Fifth
Avenue in New York. It was a combination of shoes and polishes displayed in beautiful designs and patterns that moved. Wow! Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
20
Style Savvy
The magic of
Marsala
Each year global colour authority Pantone designates a colour of the year, to express in colour what is taking place in the global zeitgeist. In 2015 Marsala enjoys that honour.
L
ike the red wine it is named after, Pantone’s Marsala is a rich and robust, reddish, earthybrown hue. “Marsala enriches our mind, body and soul, exuding confidence and stability. It is a subtly seductive shade, one that draws us in to its embracing warmth,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone Colour Institute. Pantone believes Marsala is flattering against many skin tones and is therefore a great go-to colour for beauty. A matte finish highlights Marsala’s organic nature, while adding a sheen conveys a completely different message of glamour and luxury.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
CND: Bloodline, Decadence, Masquerade, Scarlett Letter, and Crimson Sash. MORGAN TAYLOR: Vixen in a Bottle, Don’t rain on my Masquerade.
Style Savvy
21
SPARITUAL: Fall in Love
Marsala is available in a variety of mix and match shades in different nail application systems, such as nail polish, gel polish, colour gels and acrylic powders, to add a touch of class to your nails or toes.
GELISH: Good Gossip
ESSIE: Limited Addiction
ICE BOX: Crimson Ice, Ruby Ice
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Nail Trends
22
Shape up, or ship out Nail File looks at the most popular nail shapes over the last year.
O
ne of the fun things about nail shapes are the bizarre names assigned to some of them – such as squaletto, ballerina slipper, coffin, mountain peak, lipstick and flare, to name a few.
Pic courtesy: Dream Nails
For many years it seemed like the square and squoval (square oval/square with rounded edges) were the most universally popular nail shapes with clients. However, Tania Oliver of the Bio Sculpture Gel West Rand Nail Salon has noticed a move away from this trend.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Nail Trends
23
Nail Trends
“Oval and almond shapes have also been very popular on runways, as well as on the red carpet. Celebrities influence nail shapes very much, just as they do fashion. For instance, Jennifer Lopez had a beautiful set of nails for this year’s Golden Globe Awards and it was very popular on the internet. Lopez’ nails were long and almond in shape.” Oliver notes that excessively long, artificial nails are not as popular any more, but rather natural, well-maintained nails. “Short manicured nails are very acceptable nowadays,” comments Oliver. Getty Gizaw, of Soho NYC Nails Waxing Beauty in Sandton, adds: “The really popular shape currently at my salon is the stiletto, but we’ve been doing a lot of the ballerina slipper V
Pic source: JK Nails, Los Angeles / www.yelp.com
“There has definitely been a shift in nail-shaping in my salon over the past year,” says Oliver. “I’ve noticed that the very hard square shape is not as popular any more, but rather a soft oval that mirrors the shape of the cuticle area.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
24
Nail Trends
“The stiletto-shaped nail has been making its appearance for some time now, and has been made popular by celebs such as Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner and even Rihanna.” Pic courtesy: Magnetic Nails
Sonette van Rensburg
shape as well. This is sometimes called the coffin shape or squaletto, and is like a stiletto but with a square tip rather than a pointed one. We do about two to three sets of ballerina slipper nails in a day. Also very popular at Soho is the almond shape. “I think that the reason that we haven’t been doing as many square nails as in the past is that being situated in Sandton City, we get a lot of international guests from the hotels in the centre, who are familiar with the latest overseas trends. We also get a lot of air hostesses from international airlines coming in for nail services. They too are up on the latest nail trends.”
Flexible industry NSI educator Katia Da Silva believes that square oval or semi-square nail shape will not fade away completely. “But, as the industry changes so too does the client. With the stiletto shape being known for some years now, clients are starting to adapt to the shape. This Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
in turn has made almond or oval-shaped nails popular. “Almond nails give the illusion of a more slender nail plate and suit most clients. When done properly with the sides tapered down, the view of the nail from the top becomes even more elegant, as it doesn’t leave a round bulge on the sides. As the client becomes more and more used to this shape, the tip of the nail starts to become more pointy.” Da Silva agrees with Gizaw in that she believes the coffin is the shape to look out for in 2015.
Assortment The past couple of years have seen a whole assortment of nail shapes and lengths, and nails are no longer just medium-length, flat, with a rounded shape, according to beauty and nail consultant Sonette van Rensburg. “When the longer, absolutely square and squoval shape came into the limelight and joined the more commonly seen shapes like almond and pointed, everyone thought that the nail industry was really stepping out and being daring. Now nail stylists are constantly experimenting to create some of
Nail Trends
the most unusual and radical shapes, forms and lengths ever seen. “The stiletto-shaped nail has been making its appearance for some time now, and has been made popular by celebs such as Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Kylie Jenner and even Rihanna. This shape of nail has been translated in so many different ways, and is a take
on the original almond-shaped nail but with a much more pronounced and exaggerated look in every way.
“Stiletto nails are still just as popular now as when they first came onto the scene, in some of the longest, pointiest lengths which, to some of us, look quite dangerous. They are engineered in a variety of different
25
nail enhancement systems and created with combinations of custom colours, beautifully painted with one-stroke paint techniques and adorned in 3D acrylic creations and nail art, turning them into absolute masterpieces.”
Van Rensburg points out that the past two years have seen even more V
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
26
Nail Trends
unusual shapes, such as the lipstick, the edge and the flare or fan.
“None of these take my fancy and I don’t quite see the point of them, but it’s all about following the trends and making sure you know exactly what’s available in order to accommodate your client’s needs and fashion preferences,” she continues. “More recently the coffin shape has made its appearance. This is quite an elegant shape in a slightly longer than medium length, that tapers gently towards a slightly squared front free edge. But whatever length and shape you choose, I think it’s important that it suits and complements your client’s hands and their overall look. Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
“There is a definite move towards the more natural look, which has made a strong appearance, with the natural accents of nail shapes and lengths seen during the autumn/ winter fashion shows. Lengths are ranging between the shorter and medium options, with rounder more oval shapes in the forefront.”
Techniques The nail stylist needs to employ different angles, files and buffers for filing different nail shapes, says Oliver. “The angle at which a technician holds and places the nail file is very important and has a major influence on the overall shape. I would say that the almond or pointed nail is the most difficult to shape.”
Van Rensburg maintains that when filing and shaping, the nail technician needs to think of the client’s nails as a 3D picture in a frame. “You must ensure that certain areas are preserved and not overfiled, as this could lead to them cracking and breaking,” she elaborates. “We also need take into account that the natural nail has compound curves and an enhancement has structural points, so it is important to execute and use the correct techniques when shaping, filing and buffing. Use gentle rounded movements when buffing so as to maintain the curves and structural points.”
Health Hints
27
How to beat that
CTD Many nail stylists who have been in the industry for years sooner or later develop a CTD (Cumulative Trauma Disorder), for example carpal tunnel syndrome, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
C
TD develops due to the repetitive and incorrect use of your hands, arms or body, and usually results in a painful condition. The muscles around the area of use eventually become so inflamed that they constrict and place pressure on the nerves, causing shooting pains and numbness in the area. V
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Health Hints
28
Carpal tunnel is created beneath the strong fibrous band stretching across the wrist; another similar band stretches across the top of the wrist, creating a tunnel beneath it. Tendons and nerves that control finger and thumb motion pass through this tunnel, and, when this area is injured, swelling occurs in the soft tissue, which then pinches the nerves together, causing pain. If the condition is not dealt with properly, the injury could become permanent and lead to surgery and weakened use of the area, limb or digits. CTD can affect your hands, neck, back, shoulders, wrists, elbows and fingers. Practising proper ergonomics, being aware of your posture, using your body in the correct manner and using the correct working practices and techniques will help to prevent painful CTDs from occurring.
Top tips The INTA (International Nail Technicians Association) and PBA NMC (Nail Manufacturers Council) have come up with a number of useful recommendations in respect of preventing CTDs. Keep both the task and tools directly in front, do not favour or lean to one side. 1
2 Avoid reaching more than 30cm and keep forearms parallel with the floor (neutral position) at the side.
Choose a high-quality, swivel chair with a seat at least 2.5cm wider on each side than hips/ 3
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
thighs and properly padded so that it doesn’t create pressure points.
4 When sitting always keep the spine (back) in a neutral position (a 90-degree angle), not leaning forward or backward. The head, neck, and body should face forward without twisting or hunching. The back rest should provide support for lower back. 5 Avoid twisting the neck and keep shoulders relaxed.
6 Avoid leaning too far forward while performing manicures or pedicures. Do not bend the back forward more than 30 degrees or
the neck more than 45 degrees.
7 Raise and position the client’s hands or legs/feet to prevent bending/stretching forward or supporting feet with your own body. 8 Adjust chair height so your thighs are parallel to the floor with your feet flat. If necessary, use a footrest to keep the feet flat and don’t cross the legs or sit sideways in the chair.
Wrist and hands should be kept straight, not bent or twisted sideways. 9
10 When
holding a client’s hand or finger, position it so that the
Health Hints
29
Important points • The INTA and PBA NMC strongly advise stylists to take frequent breaks, change positions frequently and not to hold any posture or position for long periods. They suggest using continual flowing movements when performing massage techniques to keep muscles from tightening and becoming sore.
pressure from grasping is minimised; a relaxed, minimal hold will lessen the strain. Gently move your client’s hand rather than tilting your head. In order to prevent neck strain, consider placing a client’s hand on a rest that elevates the hand, to prevent forward tilt of the head and neck. 11
12 Minimise pressure points, avoid placing arms on the edge of the table and use a foam tube/padding on the sharp edge of the nail table or as an arm/elbow rest.
• When massaging, use the heel of your hand and pad of your thumb since they are stronger than your fingers, and be ambidextrous; use both hands equally.
Preventing lifting and motion injury
To prevent back injury, salon professionals should avoid lifting anything heavy (more than 7kg) and, when lifting something, tuck in the stomach and use abdominal muscles and legs, instead of the back muscles. Also avoid overextending arms.
• Slow down, if necessary, to avoid injury, pain, discomfort and eliminate unnecessary steps.
It’s advisable to use an adjustable pedi-chair or to place the client’s foot on a pillow raised to just above elbow level. When using tools, minimise strong gripping or pinching and take rest breaks. Use padded files and tools to decrease the need to use a hard pinch or grip.
• Don’t over-apply artificial nail products; the more you apply, the more you have to file. • Using a new file on each client will reduce your muscle strain and save time. • If taking a break isn’t possible, do gentle stretching motions in between clients; stretch the neck, raise arms and stretch, open hands and stretch fingers, stretch back and rotate wrists.
Pic source: INTA/PBA NMC
Also vital to preventing injury, according to INTA (International Nail Technicians Association) and PBA NMC (Nail Manufacturers Council), is understanding how to lift and move correctly, as repetitive motion can aggravate CTD.
• Always pay attention to discomfort, and, if it continues, seek the advice of a medical professional.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
30
InProd the market
Product
Hub Colour to go
NSI has launched a gel polish sealant for nail enhancements. Go Color has no base coat and top coat application, no dry time and no tacky layer. With just a single coat, technicians can now save time by curing to a high-gloss colour in just 60 seconds using an LED lamp. 011 025 4007
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.
French flair LCN is now offering its FrenchSalon favourites with a delicate glimmer. The acid free, UV French Shimmer Gels present a good flow rate as well as high opacity. They are available in the following colours – Royalty and Pomp. 087 751 041 0
Rapid removal
Akzentz Enviro Soak & Remove is an Acetone/ MEK free soak-off remover that uses an earth-friendly, environmentally compliant biodegradable green solvent, which exhibits high purity and is non-toxic.
Icy gel South African brand Ice Box colors has launched a range of gels into the professional market. The initial launch gel kit contains French manicure shades and two photochromatic shades, which change colour in the sun. 011 314 9222
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
011 728 8060
In the market Product News 31
Art de luxe Izabelle Hammon, home to iZ Beauty of London, offers professionals gorgeous nail art, from trend-led collections of nail decals, studs, nail art pens, neon powders, glitter tools to embellishments. 031 537 3585 / 084 619 8983
All that glitters
Fairy-tale hues
Morgan Taylor Professional Nail Lacquer has launched the Cinderella 2015 Collection, inspired by Walt Disney Pictures’ live action film, Cinderella. Six dazzling colours make up the collection – from fanciful glitters to striking bright pink. 011 447 0659
Magnetic Nails SA is launching Glitter Spray Colour Collections for its Top Gel and Gelpolish products in four holographic colours. This Holographic Glitter Spray is perfect for use over a Magnetic Top Gel or Gelpolish of the client’s choice and cure. 011 869 9111
Seasonal shades Bio Sculpture Gel has launched The Folk Collection for autumn/winter. Heart & Soul is a classic camel shade with a subtle undertone of natural shimmer, while The Artist’s Muse is a dark, rich grey/brown with a purple undertone. Pursuit of Beauty is sapphire blue, Free Lovin’ is an opulent emerald green shade, with Classic Jacquard a soft rose-nude colour. 0861 246 435
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
32
Nail Competition Nail Competition
Winning ways - North Nail File’s look at the international competition circuit.
T
he heat was on at the recent Professional Beauty Manchester show, as the North Nail Championships saw an outstanding number of entries battling it out over the two days of competition.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
NailNail Competition Competition 33
Nail Championship
Hungarian tech Eva Darabos was the star of the event, collecting the coveted trophies for both International Nail Master and International Nail Art Master for her skills.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
34
Know your nail chemicals
It’s all in the
chemistry In part one of our Know your nail chemicals series, Sonette van Rensburg looks at two chemicals commonly used in the nail industry – acetone and IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol). Both are solvents and evaporate quickly, but each has a specific purpose.
L
et’s start by defining what the term ‘chemical’ actually means. Just about everything around us that we can see and touch, except for light and electricity, is a chemical. Water, oxygen and even our nails are made up of chemicals, so to say all chemicals are harmful, dangerous and toxic would be incorrect. Chemicals are made up of molecules which are prone to change – they react in different ways depending on their molecular structure and on what triggers them to change. This is known as a chemical reaction. Most of the nail technician’s job entails using chemicals and these are constantly causing chemical reactions to occur
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
on the nail plate. Therefore it is of utmost importance that nail technicians are knowledgeable and have a good understanding about the chemicals they use and that are available in the nail industry. This knowledge is most definitely going to be imperative to your success as a nail technician. Besides this, as a nail technician you have a certain responsibility towards your client’s safety and well-being and to preserving the integrity of the natural nail. Know the difference between acetone and IPA and how these two chemicals react with the nail plate. Make sure you use them for the purpose for which they are intended.
Know your nail chemicals
35
IPA Isopropyl Alcohol (also known as Rubbing Alcohol) is, like acetone, a solvent but in a much milder form. It is used as a cleansing agent and to dissolve oils. The molecular structure of IPA is different to that of acetone and therefore it will not dissolve nail polish or enhancements. It is very effective in assisting other chemicals to adhere to the nail plate’s surface.
Acetone Although acetone is one of the most important and safe chemicals a nail technician can use, it is a very volatile solvent, which can break down and strip other chemicals found in the keratinous nail plate. Due to its molecular structure acetone does not have the ability to bond anything to the nail. The nail plate has tiny channels and because acetone is such a strong solvent and chemical, it penetrates deeply and remains within the channels and layers of the nail plate. Initially polish will adhere to and bond well to the nail plate, however once the nails are polished, the nail plate will slowly release the acetone from these channels and rise to the surface. Because the acetone has nowhere to go it pushes up the polish and causes bubbles. Acetone should only be used for removing nail polish and soaking off nail enhancements and coatings, and not prior to applying a coating.
Many professional nail brands have a preparation product with which to cleanse natural nail plates, most of which contain IPA as well as other ingredients. The purpose of this product is to prepare the nail plate layers prior to the application of either an enhancement, nail coating or polish. It also improves adhesion and prevents the growth of pathogens and other harmful organisms.
With thanks to well-known and respected product chemists, namely Douglas D. Schoon and Dr Robert Gobac for information provided.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
36
Step by Step
Flower power Want to create this delightful floral nail art design by Calgel? Here’s how‌
1.
Enhance the nail with a sculpted Calgel extension or tip overlay if required. Prepare a gradation colour base on the enhanced nail. Do not wipe away the sticky residue.
2.
4.
Apply a coat of Clear Calgel over the finished gradation base using the standard Calgel application method. Do not cure this coat.
3.
Load your Calgel marbling brush with white Calgel and place five dots of Calgel in a circle, ensuring that you avoid the petals from touching each other.
When you are satisfied with your petals, load your Calgel marbling brush with purple Calgel for your leaves. Place dots of Calgel near the white flowers without touching the petals.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Step by Step
5.
6.
Using the same technique, drag each end of the purple dots away from its centre to create a leaf shape.
37
Having wiped your Calgel marbling brush clean, use it to drag the white Calgel of the petals into the centre of each flower.
7. 8.
The final stage is to load your Calgel marbling brush with yellow Calgel for the centre of your flowers. Cure the nail under a 36 watt UV lamp for three minutes, apply a coat of clear Calgel, cure for 30 seconds, wipe away the sticky residue and apply a layer of UV protective top coat.
The final result on a full set of nails is very impressive.
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
38
Q&A
Top Tech Talk In this inaugural issue of Nail File, we put the spotlight on TRACEY OWGAN, an awardwinning South African nail technician, nail art expert and educator.
What first made you want to get into the nail industry? It was my Mom, a qualified hairdresser and beautician. We were involved with GNLD fulltime and had many requests to open a salon as we did talks on health, nutrition and skincare. I was a qualified interior decorator at the time, and when my Mom suggested we open a salon and I do nails,
I said no, because I believed only stupid people did nails. Yes, I actually said that. So we decided that she would do nails and we both would do body treatments and facials. We went back to college to qualify in the chosen fields and I trained in nails only as a backup.
After a year we were introduced to Magnetic Nails, a new company in South Africa with Dutch owners. We went to Onderstepoort for a training workshop and learnt things about nails we never realised were possible. They brought out a trainer called Renata Versteeg, who specialised in nail art. It was only then that I began to realise that you actually have to have a brain and passion to do nails.
Where did you train? I trained at Hydro International in Edenvale, then at CND. For over 14 years I
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
Q&A
have attended training sessions at the Magnetic Nails Academy head office in Holland. Every year I upgrade my skills and do exams in Europe to qualify as a trainer on an international level. I have also trained at Signature Nail International in Dusseldorf, Germany.
Did you have any mentors in the industry? Renata Versteeg for showing me that nail art can be created on nails as a form of beauty and passion. And David and Stefi Folwer – they were rebels and showed how to build the best nails, no matter the brand and no matter the economy. They taught me how to create beautiful nails with the correct structure, what to look for and how to train, how to compete and how to believe in myself, whatever the challenges.
You’ve won many awards at Professional Beauty shows but which overseas awards have you won? Magnetic International Mixed Media Tip Box Nail Art Competitions in Holland. Winner in 2008 and 2009: Advanced techniques in all five systems combined – Acrylic, Gel, Airbrushing, Acrylic & One-Stroke Paint, Rhinestone and Embellishment Designs.
Why did you decide to specialise in nail art? Nail art is in my blood. I have loved art and colour since I was young, and can thank my
39
precious parents for my genes. Most women believe they cannot draw a stick man; I guide them into believing they can, and, at the end of the day, they can. If people around you notice your nails it boosts your selfesteem. You and your client feel appreciated.
When did nail art first really take off in South Africa? When demonstrating nail art at Professional Beauty and Beauty Africa many years ago, I realised that not many companies were showing nail art. The more we all grew at shows and exposed nail art, the more people fell V
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
40
Q&A
in love with it. Nail competitions allowed us to develop our techniques, and, when nail techs realised this, nail art exploded. I feel it really took off about six years ago.
How has nail art evolved since then? Nail art has come a long way. People in countries like Germany, Ukraine and Russia, for example, eat, sleep, breathe nails. I long for South Africans to follow them. I remember demonstrating a stiletto nail at Professional Beauty in the open workshops on the big screen some years back. Some people thought stilettoes were witches’ nails, but today they are celebrated as an extreme nail shape and make women’s hands look gorgeous.
What do you think is the future of nail art in terms of trends and techniques? As long as nail techs and salon owners upgrade themselves in terms of new techniques, styles and product development on a yearly basis, we as South Africans will stay with the trends. I travel to Europe up to three times a year. I’ve noticed
Nail File Issue 1 Mar/Apr 2015
In terms of nail art standards, how does south africa rate with the rest of the world? We as South Africans rate very well in that we are enthusiastic, hard workers and passionate. I really think that if we applied ourselves, we would rule the nail art industry.
that Europe grows in leaps and bounds and that South Africans are aware of new trends. All we need to do is let go and grow ourselves. Nail techs and salon owners need to realise that training and upgrading yourself on a yearly basis is an investment in your business as well as in yourself. The trends for the coming years I believe are extreme nail shapes such as modern almond, pipe, and elongation, on nail beds that create beautiful square shape nails with deep smile lines.
When did you start Magnetic Nail Design and the Academy? It was in 2002, after meeting the owners of Magnetic Nails and travelling to Europe to develop my skills. The Magnetic Nails product range speaks for itself – I’ve seen amazing results and the product is easy to work with. The educators who train us in Europe are always competition winners in their area of expertise. It has become my passion to teach my students to better their previous best so they can be the best nail designer in their town. Some 2467 certified students have passed through our Academy to date.