Issue 11
Oct / Nov 2016
On point
Dealing with time-strapped clients
Shades of summer
Vacation colours
Hip happenings
Events as marketing tools
Showcasing art Our competition winners
WHAT’S INSIDE NAIL FILE
10
16
34
4
20
35
Industry News
Stlye Savvy
Top Tech Talk
10
22
Ask the Experts
In the Market
Stay in the know
How do I market my salon successfully through events?
16 Business
Servicing the time-strapped client
18 Salon Focus Nails @ Aura
Holiday fever!
Maureen Brill
Product Hub
24-31 Winning Ways
Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition
32 Know Your Chemicals Top and bottom
34 Trend Watch
Draped in jewels
Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
Issue 11
Oct / Nov 2016
acquer,
On point
T Gel MaTch
Color at the Speed of light
Dealing with time-strapped clients
Cover: Shutterstock
Shades of summer iCoNiC opi ShadeS ShiNe-iNteNSe laStS for WeeKS CUreS iN 30 SeCoNdS
The Prestige Cosmetics Group Marlborough Gate, Hyde Lane, Hyde Park, Johannesburg Phone: 021 442 7700/ 011 325 1000 Email: OPIorders@pcgroup.co.za
Vacation colours
Hip happenings
Events as marketing tools
Showcasing art Our competition winners
NAIL FILE
A Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079 Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com
Publisher Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za
WELCOME A
s you can see from our news pages, a host of international educators visited their South African distributors recently, helping them to launch new products and trends. Equally important is that each of these educators, all leaders in the nail domain, held workshops to impart their invaluable knowledge and experience and, in this way, ensure that our local nail professionals are up to date and on a par with their counterparts globally. In this issue we are delighted to feature detailed step by step guides on how the spectacular winning looks in our two categories of the annual Nail File Showcase Nail Art competition were created. Katia Da Silva won the Photographic Nail Art category with Restrained Glamour, while Chantel Smith triumphed in the Tip Box Nail Art category, which was themed The Jungle Book. Congratulations to both Katia and Chantel for their outstanding work, which we believe achieved new levels of creativity and artistry. This is our final issue of the year and we leave you with a blast of lovely colours – as evident in our Style Savvy section – with which to paint your clients’ nails in summer. All that is left for me to say is – have a wonderful festive season and see you in 2017! Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Art Director Alois Sajanga alois@fmexpo.org Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg sonette@probeauty.co.za Advertising Sales 011 781 5970
TO ADVERTISE in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970 TO CONTRIBUTE TO EDITORIAL, contact Joanna TO JOIN THE CONVERSATION Visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
For more information contact Looking Good LCN: Tel: 010 593 3293 | WhatsApp 083 326 0604 | info@lcn.co.za | www.lcn.co.za MADE IN GERMANY
4
News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips
Delegates get ‘EducatioNail-ed’ Dozens of nail technicians attended the annual Nail File EducatioNail Workshop, which took place on 28 August at Gallagher Convention Centre.
H
eld in association with ITEC as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, the workshop was targeted at those nail professionals keen on updating their knowledge and learning about the latest industry trends.
Says EducatioNail Workshop director, Sonette van Rensburg: “We were delighted with the turnout at the workshop and received very positive feedback from delegates. The workshop kicked off with the video series, Inside Doug Schoon’s Brain. Doug is not only an internationally renowned scientist and product chemist, but a foremost authority in the nail industry and mentor to many. This series provides a
whole new understanding of the natural nail and what affects it.”
Melissa Peters, international education ambassador of Artistic Nail Design, presented a session on the science of nails. Van Rensburg continues: “Melissa showed how there is so much more to being a nail tech than providing a nail service and how important it is to have the necessary knowledge and understanding of how everything works, from the natural nail, to your products.”
Debbie Kayle and Lucia Oosthuizen of Sparkle Cosmetics & Nail Academy provided invaluable tips on how to avoid service breakdown, while Lea Castro of Looking Good LCN talked about how nail techs can go the extra mile by making sure their clients take care of their service once they leave the salon.
Yolande Bekker and Morne Louw of E.Mi School of Nail Design presented a session called Trendy Tips, to show there are no limitations to the variety of nail Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
looks you can achieve and create.
The workshop ended with an open forum where delegates had the opportunity to raise questions and share ideas. All delegates received a Certificate of Participation. Education providers and participants at EducatioNail included: Twincare International; Sparkle Cosmetics & Nail Academy; Looking Good LCN; E.Mi School of Nail Design; ITEC; and Elements Beauty Concepts.
News Occasion Nails
5
Buckley ‘Sparkles’ at workshop Over 70 nail techs attended Sparkle Nail Academy Johannesburg’s skills workshop, hosted by Antony Buckley, European director of education for Hand and Nail Harmony.
Says Sparkle’s sales and marketing director, Romy Pfaff: “Antony’s career spans 25 years and he is a worldwide multi-first place competitor. His workshop was a resounding success. Attendees were privileged to witness a world-class educator at work, and the skills gained by all were immeasurable.” Buckley covered Advanced Gelish (including enhancements
and design), and Advanced ProHesion Liquid & Powder techniques, including the perfect sculpt and design.
“We are so grateful to Antony for adding Johannesburg to his long list of travels, and for sharing his expertise and passion with us. We can’t wait to bring him back next year for another workshop,” concludes Pfaff.
Baker visits SA Wondernail, the distributor of international brand EzFlow, recently hosted a workshop run by Allie Baker, EzFlow global brand ambassador and winner of the 2015 NAILPRO Cup.
Says Dominique Manelis of Wondernail: “We are committed to education and were excited to have Allie Baker run a threeday speciality training course at our head office in Bedfordview, Johannesburg, in mid-August. “Allie introduced us to the EzFlow TruGel French Remix of Nude Gel Tones and the SOLstice Collection – six, sundrenched pastel shades in the
100% Gel Polish. Also launching are EzFlows new Optimise-it! Base Coats and New Nail Forms for sculpting with longer fit for extra length.” According to Manelis, the most popular feature of each day of the workshop was Baker’s tips on her award-winning 3D nail artwork.
Manelis continues: “Allie shared her tips on how to create perfect 3D acrylic flowers. She advised nail techs to have a good quality brush, with a good point so as to pick up small balls of acrylic with ease. Other advice is to use the product once dry so that it doesn’t run when trying to shape the flowers.”
Allie Baker
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News
An ‘Artistic’ interlude Melissa Peters, principal educator for Artistic Nail Design, visited South Africa at the end of August to meet with distributor Twincare International and to participate in the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo.
Lindzey Turton (Twincare International) with Melissa Peters (Artistic Nail Design)
In an exclusive interview with Nail File, Peters said that Artistic Nail Design stood out as a professional nail brand because of the education behind it. “There is a real passion for education behind Artistic – it was created by nail techs for nail techs. Some brands don’t care about the nail tech so much but Artistic is always looking to raise the bar. We really want to see the industry grow. This goal has made us expand in leaps and bounds.” Accompanying Peters on her South African visit was Nick Erodotou from Nail Alliance, who added: “South Africa is a growing market for Artistic and an important one. Our focus is to really help educate nail techs on the product, the structure of the nail, and nail health. When you have an uneducated nail market, techs will mainly buy based on price. Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
We want to get the message across that they should only use high-quality brands and order them through legitimate sources. Artistic invests so much into R&D to ensure the quality and integrity of our products. How a brand is marketed in a region is important as this marketing speaks a particular language. Low-cost brands don’t do the type of marketing that we do.” Peters stressed that Artistic is an edgy brand. “You only have to see our branding imagery to realise this. Artistic is very creative in how the colours are picked and used and we collaborate with fashion houses.”
During her visit, Peters conducted seminars at Twincare. “Working with the Twincare team has been great – we are building an education team at Twincare and I think we have a great opportunity to help develop the industry in South Africa.,” she concluded.
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News Occasion Nails
9
New distributor for Essie L’Oreal Essie Professional is now fully distributed in South Africa by Spa and Salon Solutions. This includes Essie polish and gel products, as well as all treatments and solutions. Essie’s new Gel Couture range will be available in South Africa as from January. Says Spa and Salon Solutions’ Karen Ellithorne: “Essie is a well-known and established brand that has been available in South Africa since the nineties. The brand has always had a good following amongst professional manicurists and pedicurists, and, with the new additional exciting ranges that will be launched in 2017, we will certainly see the brand continue to grow in strength.” She notes that Spa and Salon Solutions aims to put the personal touch back into the brand and will do away with large minimum orders.
“We will invite all the salons to come and visit us at our new showroom/ training centre in Parkmore, Sandton, from January next year.” Ellithorne explains her motivation for taking
on Essie: “As we were already calling on nail bars, beauty salons and spas with our own Milk Solutions range, I felt that taking on the distribution of the professional side of Essie would be a natural progression for Spa and Salon Solutions in South Africa. “What appeals to me about Essie is that the colour range is very broad, with over 1 000 colours to choose from, so there is something for everyone. We are also very excited about the fact that not only does the gel have a quick curing time, but by the end of next year, Essie aims to have the same amount of gel colours available as nail colours.” Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
10
Ask the experts
QUESTION: How do I market my salon successfully through events? ISABEL FENNER Salon events are vital and if planned correctly, can be a huge success. There are so many interesting types of events to offer, for example, ‘A Make-Up Date’ event or a ‘Spring/Summer Manicure and Pedicure’ event. Existing clients who only come for one specific treatment will come to your event and experience different treatments. No matter what event you decide to do, let’s take a pedicure for an example, at the event only one foot is done for clients to feel and see the difference. Your clients will be booking for an additional treatment or two before they leave your event. This is also an excellent way to introduce and sell home care products and creates so much excitement in the salon. To ensure an amazing turnout at your event, it’s essential to advertise it for at least four weeks in advance via all the different social media platforms. A clever drawcard is also to offer a gorgeous gift for each client who
brings three friends to the event. This leads to more people and potential future clients, as the invited friends/ guests are guaranteed to book for a treatment before the end of the event. Refreshments are always a great idea as guests can relax and decide on what they would like to book for or purchase, instead of leaving immediately and not thinking about the experience again. Personally I think one should book clients at specific times and you may want to charge a small booking fee for the event. The booking fee can be used towards your refreshments or given as a credit on anything purchased, or treatments booked for on the day of the event.
Isabel Fenner started the Looking Good Beauty Centre in 1989, and, in 2000, joined forces with her sister, Lea Castro, to link their two salons into one. Fenner’s passion is education and this year she became training director for Looking Good LCN.
Nail File Issue 11
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Ask the experts Occasion Nails
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YVETTE NEL The success of any event lies in the drive behind it. It is great to have your supplier/s involved in events. This does not mean they all need to be involved in the same event. You can have monthly events to give all of your suppliers an opportunity, as different things draws different people.
Too many focus points at an event are not a good thing, so aim for concise and high impact. Firstly, decide what you want to promote and then contact your supplier and set a date within a reasonable timeframe to ensure maximum exposure. Focus on what the core of your business is, but use promotional events to introduce new things. For example, if you do nails only, then perform demos for potential new clients and perhaps introduce make-up, jewelry, limited edition trend products or limited edition Christmas products. You see your clients about every four weeks, so allow this time to promote the event to them. Your supplier might be able to assist you by creating a beautiful invitation to send out. You need to get news of the event out on all forms of communication, such as Facebook and WhatsApp. Encourage your existing clients to bring a friend, or three, on the day,
and offer something in return.
Now the key work starts! Phone clients to see if they’ve received the invitation. By doing this more information can be imparted about the event. Don’t forget to ask the client: ‘Can I put you on the list?’ I always recommend charging a booking fee for events. Add value to the event. It can be one or a combination of the following: goodie bag; samples; or a treatment discount voucher. Have a ‘lucky draw’ of a product hamper on the day.
Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working with all nail systems. Nel is a diverse health and beauty industry influencer, with 14 years of experience in salon, sales, marketing, education and distribution.
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Ask the experts
SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Established nail salons should be careful not to make the mistake of placing too much focus on marketing efforts only to bring in new clients. Once you have won your clients over, you need to keep working at ways of keeping them loyal. What you do and how you do it will make all the difference. A very successful way of marketing your business to new and existing clients is through events. I’m not just talking about events that focus only on nails and beauty, but also events focusing on absolutely anything, from music to food, cars, sport, lifestyle, fashion and much more. Even in-house events in your own salon to promote a new product or treatment, or to introduce a new concept, are a great way of keeping new and existing clientele interested.
VIP events that invite your top clients to enjoy a free treatment or pamper session and a glass of wine or snacks are a great way of rewarding them for their loyalty. It helps to spread the word and word of mouth is a great marketing tool. You could also set up a video camera to record their testimonials and use them on your website, or take photos for your social media channels. In terms of external events that you wish to link with, do your research and make sure you know what’s happening out there, how big the event is going to be and who’s attending. Make contact with the necessary people and stay in touch so you can collaborate with them.
Planning for such an event is vital as you need to make sure you have enough staff, products, giveaways and marketing materials such as brochures and business
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Ask the experts
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cards. Be strategic in what you will be offering and doing at the event to target and attract the right people. Be careful of offering discount vouchers or giving away irrelevant gifts. Vouchers are only useful if they are connected to something that adds value, for example: instead of offering a discount, rather offer a free product or add on treatment in conjunction with something people buy to the value of a certain amount. This ensures they come in to the salon to try it out, but still spend their money with you. Free product giveaways instead of discounts are also a great way of promoting and introducing a new product. Being present at events creates brand awareness and shows people you take your business seriously.
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 27 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
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CAPE TOWN 26 & 27 MARCH 2017 THE LOOK OUT AT THE WATERFRONT
Education Innovation Inspiration CAPE TOWN LOOK OUT!
THE EXHIBITION
This year Professional Beauty is changing, bringing you not only the leading brands from South Africa but also a new and exciting range of seminars and workshops, providing education, innovation and inspiration.
Not only are we bringing you this fantastic educational opportunity, the exhibition will feature many of the top brands and suppliers with new products, special offers and innovation for you to see, all under one roof.
New Venue
New Concept
Visit www.probeauty.co.za to get the full details on this must attend event and book your place for these superb seminars.
SKINCARE & TECHNOLOGY
ADVANCED TREATMENTS & MEDICAL AESTHETICS
From the latest skin technology to lasers and the rest, get up to date information and guidance on the latest innovation.
Mesotherapy, Cryotherapy, Microblading and much more will be explained in full to give you all the information you need about these procedures and treatments
BUSINESS SKILLS & KNOWLEDGE
NAIL TECHNOLOGY & TECHNIQUES
Giving you essential tools to make a success of your business. Ranging from social media planning to pricing for profit.
If you work with nails you should attend these seminars. Charging to make a profit, the latest techniques, styles and ideas.
16
Business
Servicing the TIME-STRAPPED CLIENT
Salon owners are in constant pursuit of finding ways to service clients who have the disposable income but may not have the time to have their nails professionally done. Sonette van Rensburg provides valuable tips on how to overcome this challenge.
M
ore and more woman who have high-powered positions and demanding careers are also attentive moms and loving wives, leaving them with very little time for themselves or being able to visit the nail salon. For those ladies who are in the limelight or constantly facing people in the business world, there is even more importance placed on their appearance. So it is an absolute must to be well groomed and perfectly polished, 24/7.
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But how do you accommodate the time-strapped client in a limited timeframe and do a superb flawless job, when they hardly have time for lunch, let alone a proper manicure? Most busy professionals are willing to pay for convenience and easier ways to get everything done, so why not home in on this, taking into consideration the needs of these types of clients?
There are a number of innovative and very clever ways of achieving this but you will need to be flexible and accommodating. You must offer these clients an opportunity to multitask and get more than just their nails done.
Business Occasion Nails
Convenience An important aspect to look at is the placement and location of your salon so as to create a convenient one-stop destination, where timestrapped clients can not only have their tips and toes groomed to perfection, but also run all their necessary errands without wasting any time.
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Accommodate your client by assigning more than one nail tech to conduct multiple treatments at the same time. This is where teamwork is going to be imperative to ensure that you get them done at the same time and out of the salon quicker. Walk-ins are another great way of accommodating clients who decide to have a service on the spur of the moment, or when they suddenly realise they have a bit of time. But a walk-in strategy needs to be managed really well or else it could become a very aggravating exercise for both salon and client.
Online bookings are a quick, easy and convenient way of making an appointment, particularly after hours, when a busy working professional does not have the time during normal working hours to call. This allows your salon’s booking system to be available 24 hours a day. I would suggest creating an environment with Wi-Fi facilities and work areas or stations that are conducive to the client being able to continue doing her work, without it interfering with the nail technician, or the service interfering with the client. Take your salon to the clients; this eliminates clients having to wait by being able to book their appointments ahead of time. It also allows the client to stay focused on her work while having her service.
Appointments and bookings Appointments and bookings can have their benefits as it allows the busy client to plan her diary and schedule ahead of time. However, you must make sure the client is accommodated on time and not let down by you running late or not being able to take her, or else you could run the risk of losing them.
Services and treatments Offer express services and treatments that are beneficial, effective yet quick and professional.
Use effective methods and procedures to conduct your services, making sure they are executed effectively and professionally in minimal time. Keep your equipment clean and in good working condition at all times, as your services are only as good as the tools and products you use. Use products that are effective and work quickly, like quick drying base and topcoats.
Accommodate your client by assigning more than one nail tech to conduct multiple treatments at the same time. This is where teamwork is going to be imperative to ensure that you get them done at the same time and out of the salon quicker.
Nail File Issue 11
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Pics by Ursula Wong
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Occasion Salon Focus Nails
NAILS @ AURA A significant portion of the Aura Skincare Salon in Parkhurst, Johannesburg, is devoted to a de luxe nail bar and retail area, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
W
alking into Aura’s nail bar, situated on the ground floor of the salon, is a bit like walking into an accessories boutique. One entire wall comprises shelves filled to the brim with leather handbags, enticing jewellery and tantalising tops. All this is in perfect view of the four sumptuous pedi chairs that adorn the adjacent wall. So while they have their feet and hands attended to, clients can ogle these desirable retail items and be seriously tempted. A self-confessed ‘shopaholic’, Aura owner, Glynne Mitchell, delights in finding the best of everything to offer clients. “Not to mention that our clients’ husbands love us as coming to Aura is the perfect shopping experience for the lady whose man who would rather be in the pub having a beer than in a mall.
Nail File Issue 11
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“
We launched our new website in September and within the near future, we will have online vouchers and an online store that delivers. Thus there is all the convenience in one spot for all of us with our hectic lives.”
Occasion Salon Nails Focus
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Pedi Chair Power When Aura first opened in 2004, it was ‘a oneman show.’ Mitchell continues: “We have now grown into a thriving salon with 10 permanent staff members and an incredible nail bar with our pedi chairs (sourced from Salon Suppliers), which clients find a real treat. The chairs give you a massage throughout the treatment and really get into some of those knots in your back.
Choice Brands In terms of brands, Aura uses CND Shellac and Vinylux, Gelish, Morgan Taylor, IBD, IBX, Essie and Milk Solutions. Says Mitchell: “We chose these brands because they are trendy and ‘on fleek’ (i.e. on point).” She notes that, in terms of retail, the Vinylux colour lacquers and top coat pretty much sell themselves. Mitchell estimates that nail services generate a steady 40% of total turnover but that this figure generally increases over the summer period.
“Our pedicure basins have a ‘spa’ function that ignites bubbles, as well as lights that change colour, just to provide that little something extra for our clients.
“
A glass of champagne takes the edge off too, not to forget our well-trained, professional and friendly staff who make your pamper all about you. Although we do have a manicure table, we generally do manis on the pedi chairs, as the clients love them.”
“As to our most popular nail treatments, our clients definitely favour natural nails, so we don’t do that many tips and extensions. We mainly do Gelish and Shellac manis and pedis, but we have the few ‘die-hards’ that prefer just normal lacquers.
Mitchell notes that the male demographic for nail treatments is growing. “Our male clients may start out by taking some convincing from their wives to come in for a treatment, but it only takes one and they are hooked. There is always room to increase this demographic. So many men still have the idea that the salon is for women alone but they are slowly coming over to the ‘metrosexual’ side of life.”
All of the Aura therapists are able to perform manis and pedis, but, as the salon tends to specialise, there are a few specialised nail techs.
Although the demand for nail art is currently small, requests are definitely increasing, according to Mitchell.
“We generally have requests for the simpler ‘nail art’, like an accent nail in a different colour or glitter. However, our girls are learning new things all the time for clients,” she explains. Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
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Style Savvy
Holiday fever! Everybody will soon have holiday fever and look forward to the end of the year when it’s time to forget all your troubles and transport yourself to a cheerful, happy place and have some fun.
W
hat better way than to sooth your cares away and regenerate then with a Meticulous Mani and Perfect Pedi, gorgeously polished and beautifully designed tips and toes, groomed to perfection and ready for a brand new year to come? When the heat is on, short and sweet is the way to go; a trimmed manicure with more rounded, softer edges looks good in just about any colour. It’s feminine and practical and means no fuss for the holiday season, and can look ultra chic in a multitude of colours done in a chevron or colour block patterns. If medium to longer is your choice, then almond or ballerina shapes are perfect to display a faded French manicure adorned with a little glitziness, or to show off the flipside of your tips polished in brighter colours to complement a more neutral shade on top.
With your nails as ideal little canvases, the use of negative space, geometric designs, stars and stripes, dots and moons, or tie died, marbled and splashed effects, turns an ordinary manicure into one that is more, exciting and interesting, playful and fun, to exotic and sophisticated. There is so much to choose from whatever your holiday escape, be it to a tropical island as a beach beauty polished in bright electric neon shades and combination of zigzag patterns, or done in an adventurous ombre manicure like a picturesque sunset in sunshine yellows, bright oranges and pinks with palm tree designs.
Choose to have some fun with soft pastel ice cream shades and a splash of coloured specks representing sweet coloured sprinkles, or freshen up with more zesty citrus shades, lemon wedge shapes and melon moons. Or, be more traditional and show your festive spirit with nails in bright ‘Christmassy’ colours and designs that look like pretty parcels ready to be unwrapped, or be the life of the New Year’s celebrations with sparkly party nails in shimmering shades.
Nail File Issue 11
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Oh So Redtro
Milkshakes and Heartbreaks
Pin Up Purple
Occasion Style Savvy Nails
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Morgan Taylor Favourite Eight pack with holiday colours
B Optimist
CND Vinylux
B Bold
B Expansive
Palm Vista
Teal the Beat
Summer Ecstasy Nail File Issue 11
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In the Market
Product
HUB
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails. Glamorous Collection Morgan Taylor has announced the launch of its Wrapped In Glamour collection. Shades include Just Naughty Enough (rosy bronze glitter), Let’s Get Frosty (silver glitter), Rocking My Stocking (cranberry pearl) and Who Nose Rudolph? (hot crimson crème).
011 447 0659
Lasting Colour Crisnail Colorlast Base and Top Coats are specially formulated to extend the wearability of original Crisnail Lacquers. Colorlast does not require a UV light to cure and offers up to seven days of flawless, chip-free wear. Featuring advanced DryFast technology, these products ensure a brilliant, gloss finish.
011 791 4027
Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
From the Ocean Salty Socks Foot Detox treatments from Ocean Therapy are a novel, yet effective, way to promote foot health and a popular treatment to offer as part of a pedicure treatment. Salty Socks is available in three different essential oil blends (Red) – for pain relief, (Orange) for stress/swelling and (Green) for diabetic feet.
011 803 2904
Going Retro Artistic’s Retro Redux Collection is all about infusing the 1950s into modern times and celebrating all the great things that came with that era. These fabulously bright and vibrant shades are inspired by bold fashion trends such as pin-up curls, red cherry lips, short shorts and polka-dot prints. Available in Colour Gloss and Colour Revolution. 011 305 1600
Occasion In the Market Nails
Sky Lights
A Touch of France
The LCN Sky Pro LED unit has an individually adjustable automatic timer in combination with 14 high-performance LEDs, guaranteeing fast curing in only 60 seconds. In addition, this LED unit offers two additional time interval settings of 15 and 30 seconds, to offer even more flexibility.
EzFlow TruGel’s French Remix collection is a romantic palette of Parisian Chic shades perfect for creating custom contemporary French manicures. This collection brushes on like polish for easier application and comprises soft shades of nudes and pinks to suit every skin tone, as well as the brightest white. Its protective formula cures under both LED/UV.
010 593 3293
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011 450 0754
Island time IBD has introduced a stream of new and bold colours that transcend sunrise to sunset in high shimmers and serene shades. From the lush tropics, to the depths of the seas, hues of nature take you to a paradise that can only be described as the Island of Eden. The collection features four high-shine shimmers and four rich crème shades. 011 305 1600
Empowering Colours SpaRitual’s Empower Collection for Summer 2016 embraces four bold colours heightened by electric pigments and a medley of feel-good ‘brights’. These shades are part of SpaRitual’s GOLD Color system, which can be applied 75% faster and removed 85% faster than gels.
021 552 6999
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Winning Ways
‘Restrained This beautiful design was the winning entry in the Photographic Nail Art category of the 2016 Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition.
T
op nail artist and NSI master educator, Katia Da Silva, explains how she created the look. My inspiration for this photographic work was the face mask I got as a gift in Venice, Italy. I loved the simplicity of the mask, combined with its ‘twirly’ designs. That is why I decided to create a picture called, ‘Restrained Glamour’.
The idea behind the design was to ensure that the photo portrayed glamour that was restrained. Thus the model’s make-up was slightly dramatic, while hidden behind the mask. I wanted the nails to be edgy and have subtle detail.
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WinningNails Ways Occasion
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Glamour’ The nails Cage Nail
The shape I chose to do for the nail extensions was stiletto. I selected a beautiful cover pink, in acrylic, to extend the natural nail plate and give the illusion of a longer nail plate. For the French, a pigmented black acrylic was used and faded down to a multi-colour glitter.
Once filed and ready for a glaze coat, a small amount of gold powder was sprinkled over to create the chrome effect over the front of the extension. The same was repeated under the nail plate to give a gold chrome effect under the nail.
The nail under the nail cage was sculpted with a multi-colour glitter to mimic the make-up under the mask. The beauty is the nail cage, like the beauty in the mask.
Nail Extension
Filed nails
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Winning Occasion Ways Nails
Nail cage
There is nothing restrained about a stiletto shaped nail extension. Therefore when it came to the nail art, I had to ‘restrain’ myself, which was pretty hard. The inspiration for the nail cage was the inspiration drawn from the Venetian mask. The nail cage was sculptured in a plain black pigmented acrylic with gems inserted to add some glamour to the cage. The nail underneath was sculpted in glitter only to allow the cage to stand out and the bling to reflect.
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Top Vi
The steps were as follows:
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Using a standard nail form over a curve tool, the 3D flowers were built and joined with some gems and swirls in between.
An Arabella form was gently placed underneath and supported with a metal C-Curve tool to create a platform. The underside of the cage was then joined with the black pigmented acrylic and gems in the shape of petals and swirls.
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The form platform of the Arabella form and the C-Curve tool changed in size to fit over the finger.
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3D Roses
After finishing the nails, I found that more detail was needed without going overboard. Therefore I decided to sculpt black 3D roses and place them under the extension edge. Restraining the roses in this form kept their beauty hidden and mysterious. Two roses were added to the make-up on the corner of the model’s eye, to blend the full picture together‌ creating glamour that was held back, trapped, restrained!
Rose Bud After I wrapped the acrylic around a pin to create a bud, I started creating one petal at a time, wrapping the individual petal around the bud and allowing it to dry and moulding accordingly.
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ta Rose Pe
Rose Bouquet
This process was repeated until the rose was complete. A total of 20 roses were made for this project.
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Winning Ways
Scenes from a jungle
This stunningly intricate design won the Tip Box Nail Art category of the 2016 Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition.
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op nail technician and nail artist Chantel Smith describes how she created this winning look, based on The Jungle Book movie.
Products used: Astonishing Nails Mega White Acrylic: Be Creative Acrylic Paints; and Arabella forms.
I created nail forms from the Arabella nail forms with Astonishing Nails acrylic powder, mounted the acrylic nails on to a mounting board and then drew my design. I started painting the background, adding more detail as I went along.
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With white acrylic I started sculpting the urangatang and then painted him with acrylic paint.
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I followed the same procedure with the snake, the bear and the tiger, adding more highights, details and shading to all the characters as I went along.
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Winning Occasion Ways Nails
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I sculpted teeth for the tiger with acrylic, using the Arabella forms.
I started sculpting the leopard and then decided to do the tree in 3D with acrylic and added 3D to the rocks, before painting the background for the tree.
I started painting the leopard, adding highlights and detail.
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I sculpted Mowgli with acrylic and painted him.
I added more acrylic to the tree and started painting in the leaves and branches with more detail. Once everything was done, I finished the 3D acrylic pieces with Gel Top Coat.
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Know Your Chemaicals
Base coats and top coats are a vital part of any professional paint and shape treatment. Sonette van Rensburg looks at the ingredients found in these products.
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he proverbial bread in the nail polish sandwich, base coats and top coats (and/ or polish sealers) help polish adhere to nails and prevent it from chipping and breaking. Clear base coat is applied first to the natural nail to secure to the nail bed and to act as an adhesive bed for the polish pigment to fasten. Top coat is then applied over the polish to seal in the colour and protect it. But how are these top coats and base coats different to coloured polish? And how do they help prevent chipping and breaking? Firstly, what exactly is base coat? You can think of base coat as double-sided sticky tape. It binds effectively with the natural nail, then provides a layer on top that is receptive to polish and forms a tight bond with it when the polish is applied. What is top coat? A clear layer of lacquer that is applied over dried coloured polish to create a barrier surface to prevent against chipping Nail File Issue 11
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and provide a high-gloss shine that dries in a short amount of time.
Ingredients
What is found in base coats and top coats? For base and top coats (and polish), you need ingredients called ‘solvents’ that act as transporters for the other chemicals that you want to function on the nail. These functional chemicals are dissolved into the solvents because they are not able to stand alone as a liquid. Chemists use special ‘volatile solvents’ for lacquers, which evaporate quickly. So lacquers need a mixture of volatile solvents to deliver other chemicals to the nails, and then evaporate away, leaving the functional chemicals behind to do their jobs. Common nail product solvents are ethyl and butyl acetate. Base coats also have plasticisers, which are chemicals that introduce flexibility to a substance. This is important for base coats because you want a layer that will bend
with the natural nail and not break. Base coats also need cellulose chemicals to create that double-sided sticky layer that adheres to both the natural nail and polish.
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Quick-drying
Top coats need one or more cellulose-based chemicals to get a correct shine, and they need plasticisers as well for flexibility. The thicker the viscosity of the top coat, the higher the shine, but the longer it will take to dry.
Top coats are characterised by their ability to dry quickly and create a high-gloss shine. Nitrocellulose contributes to this shine, but it comes at the expense of drying times. In addition, top coats need one or more cellulosebased chemicals to get a correct shine, and they need plasticisers as well for flexibility. The thicker the viscosity of the top coat, the higher the shine, but the longer it will take to dry.
Differentiator
What makes base coats and top coats different to polish? The main difference between top and base coats and coloured polish is the mixtures between the volatile solvents, cellulose chemicals, plasticisers and pigments. When manufacturers are creating coloured polish, they have to include pigments that can have an effect on other chemicals in the formula, and the functionality of the ÂŹpolish can be slightly affected. This is why clear top and base coats are excellent tools for ensuring long and durable polish wear, because they can focus on providing excellent adhesion, flexibility, and retention and are not compromised by pigments.
I would like to thank internationally recognised scientist Doug Schoon for his input regarding the above information.
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Trend Watch
Draped in
JEWELS
Georgia Seago of Professional Beauty UK reports on the latest nail art trend to sweep the world – ‘bracelet nails’.
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Bracelet nails adorn short, mostly squoval nails in tiny replicas of jewelry usually found wrapped around wrists, placing miniature beads and shiny embellishments onto thin, coloured bands, which are either painted onto the nail using a fine brush, or created using foils cut into thin strips. The trend originated in Seoul and can reportedly take up to two hours to complete on a full set, though some social media images show an intricate accent nail in an otherwise plain, paredback mani.
©Instagram/@deeznailzdoe
he nail industry now seems permanently focused on Asia, and Korea in particular, for the hottest trends set to hit the mainstream, particularly when it comes to intricate designs, fun embellishments and superskilled technical work. The latest is ‘bracelet nails’ and could send the super-long extensions that have been so popular lately into retirement.
©Instagram/@chelsea_ludwi gsen
©Instagram/@unistella_by_ek_lab
Popular base colours are pale pinks or simple bare nails coated in clear, shiny polish to let the art do the talking.
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Occasion Nails Q&A
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Top Tech Talk
This issue of Nail File puts the spotlight on leading nail tech and Bio Sculpture educator, Maureen Brill. HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY? I have been in the nail industry for eight years.
WHAT IGNITED YOUR INTEREST IN NAILS? I actually worked for a lawyer in 2008 in Kuruman and wanted to further my career by doing my LLB through UNISA. My husband was actually the one who suggested that I do a nail course instead, as he didn’t want a wife with a full time job, as well as children. We both decided I would do nails and work with flexible hours so that I could be a mother to our kids. I did my Bio Sculpture training in 2008 in Bloemfontein, with Ilse Van Der Merwe.
WHY DO YOU THINK NAILS ARE ALWAYS SUCH A BIG MONEY SPINNER IN THE INDUSTRY? I think being female and wanting to feel feminine adds to the hunger for beauty treatments. Every lady loves to be complimented on their make-up, hair, and nails. I believe all woman love attention on their hands. Nail File Issue 11
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Q&A
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB IN THE INDUSTRY? I worked for myself as a nail tech in a hair salon in Carletonville until my first son was born, then I was a stay-at-home mommy for two years. Thereafter I applied for a job as a nail tech at Bio Sculpture’s Training Centre & Depot in Rustenburg. At the time Vanessa Venter was the head of education and I got the job. I felt so privileged to have worked for Vanessa; I learnt so much while working there.
ONCE YOU ENTERED THE INDUSTRY, DID YOU ALWAYS PUT A BIG FOCUS ON NAIL ART? Oh yes! Right from the very beginning I was not only interested in overlays and French – I have always put a dash of art in all my nails.
WERE YOU GOOD AT ART IN SCHOOL? From a very young age and as far back as I can remember, I was very good at sketching. My parents enrolled me for oil painting classes and I actually focused most of my school career on art.
WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION FOR NAIL ART? Everywhere I go! Everything I see! For instance, our local pharmacy has stickers they put on all the meds, with the most beautiful paisley curls and twirls. I see images on google although I never really search ‘nail art’. I would rather search the theme for my next set of nails and only use images to inspire the set. My husband once brought me a butterfly that was stuck in his car’s grill, I used the wings within the gel and made the most beautiful art with it.
WHAT FORM OF NAIL ART DO YOU MOST LIKE TO DO? I am not limited to one specific type but I am really good with ombre. I don’t use a sponge at all and create the ombre effect with my Bio Sculpture nr 6 round brush. I love a challenge and can do very fine, detailed art. I have just not yet mastered any 3D art, as I only ever use gel as my medium. Nail File Issue 11
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Occasion Nails Q&A
WHAT ARE THE CURRENT BIG NAIL ART TRENDS? From my side, more complicated art such as different colours of ombre in Pantone shades, as well as colour changing gels.
WHAT APPEALS TO YOU ABOUT BIO SCULPTURE? Healthy nails! And the fact that Bio Sculpture’s founder, Elmiem Scholtz, is always up to date, so the brand grows as technology does. Elmien ensures that Bio Sculpture matches the hottest new trends and many of our new colours are inspired by the catwalks. The versatility of this brand is endless; I can extend any type of nail, damaged or healthy, broken or bitten, and we have a specific solution for every client’s needs. So whether she swims for eight hours a day, or does housework, I can guarantee my work.
WHEN DID YOU BECOME A BIO SCULPTURE EDUCATOR AT CARLETONVILLE TRAINING CENTRE? I started educating in April of this year and love it! I want to inspire my nail techs to enter competitions and grow in their different fields.
WHAT HAS BEEN THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER? In 2014 I entered Professional Beauty Nail Competition with a hunger for 1st place in the gel art category. I won on both days and was gob smacked! But this was not the highlight though, the highlight was the fact that each of the announcements brought my biggest fan and most loyal supporter – my husband – to tears. Without him, none of this would have been possible, he pushes me to be better and to compete. I love you Trevor Brill!
“ I entered Professional Beauty Nail Competition with a hunger for 1st place in the gel art category. I won on both days and was gob smacked! ” Nail File Issue 11
Oct/Nov 2016
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