Oct/Nov 2013
www.probeauty.co.za
Good Fat, Bad Fat Find out which is which
Business Advice It’s about communication
Nailing the retail Top tips to improve sales in nails
All the winners for 2013
Running a Spa or Salon Small things make the biggest difference
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online at www.probeauty.co.za
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13
Oct/Nov 2013 Regulars
Spa Focus
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19 Small things make the biggest difference Subtle details that make a spa unforgettable
Industry news Local and international news from the beauty front
56 Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys Good fat, bad fat 66 Hair news What’s hot and happening in the hair industry 64 Product news All the latest launches
25 A new awakening Hartford House opens a new wellness centre
Features 13 Lift and restore Focusing on the neck, décolleté and bust 27 Biggest and best Professional Beauty Johannesburg show review 35 Rewarding the winners Professional Beauty Awards - all the results!
Medical Aesthetics
68 SAAHSP What’s happening at SAAHSP
42 Shaping problem areas Technology for treating stubburn areas
Business
Nails
54 Talking shop Staying competitive
58 Nailing the retail Successful selling tips
34 The business of beauty Communication formula
31 The art of excellence Nail and make-up competition round-up
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46 Treatment reviews Skin rejuvenation 62 Take Care Sunscreen products
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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WELCOME
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W
here is Sally Harvey I hear you cry? Well Sally has moved on to new challenges in setting up her own PR company and we wish her all the success she deserves. As you will see as you look through the magazine, Sally is still with us contributing several articles. Her article on not neglecting the details in running a Spa or salon is essential reading for everyone working in the industry. It also got me thinking that as we leave winter behind its time for everyone to think about a business spring clean. A time to look into all the nooks and crannies of your business, examine what there is and how you might improve it and what you should change. Let’s look forward to a great summer with fresh ideas, well planned and thoughtfully introduced. The new editor of Professional Beauty is Joanna Sterkowicz and she takes over from my temporary assignment from the beginning of November. To contact her, please email: editor@probeauty.co.za
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079
Oct/Nov 2013
www.probeauty.co.za
Good Fat, Bad Fat P RO F E S S I O N A L
Find out which is which
BEAUTY
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Business Advice
SEPTEMBER
It’s about communication
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Nailing the retail Top tips to improve sales in nails
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All the winners for 2013
Running a Spa or Salon
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Publisher Mark Moloney
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Managing Director Yolanda Knott
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Senior Sales executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za Sales executive - Medical Aesthetics Sally-Jane Nkomo 071 268 2868 sally-jane@probeauty.co.za Art director Ursula Wong
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com and www.shutterstock.com
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Demand Excellence Thalgo treatments are the result of years of research into efficient, safe and innovative marine formulations, for a unique and unrivalled Spa experience.
For more information contact: Thalgo 011 880 3440 or 011 8803851 sales@marinespadistributors.co.za • www.thalgo.co.za • Specialists in marine well-being • Skincare, Body & Spa, Mens & Sun care • Spa consultancy • Thalassonutrition • Full marketing, spa educational & retail support • Full brand commitment to sustainable development • High profit margins
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NEWS
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Botox could help in weight reduction Anti-wrinkle injectable botulinum toxin could soon be used to speed weight loss following a study into the new application for the drug. Researchers from the Norwegian University of Science and Technology said they have seen promising results from trials of botulinum toxin as a weight-loss tool. The Experimental Surgery and Pharmacology research group now hopes to win approval for human testing to see if Botox could be used as an alternative to gastric bypass surgery. The study, which is part of an EU project called Full4Health, saw rats lose up to 20%-30% of their body weight over five weeks after being injected with
the drug, which is usually used to lessen facial wrinkles. The treatment paralyses muscles in the stomach, which appear to slow down the passage of food. The researchers said they believe this could help people feel fuller for longer. Helene Johannessen, who led the study, said she hopes that human clinical studies will start as soon as Norwegian medical ethics authorities give their approval and will be inviting patients who are candidates for obesity operations.
Radiant Healthcare on the move
Juliette Armand under new management Poise Brands, the current distributor of Mama Mio Skincare has recently acquired the sole distribution rights for Juliette Armand. Juliette Armand boasts a fully comprehensive, state of the art Skincare range at highly competitive retail prices and high profit margins. The focus of Juliette Armand has and will always be to research highly effective formulas aimed at
satisfying the needs of the most demanding Skincare Professionals. The range includes three lines:
Boosters – Anti-surgery systems bring you the revolution in Cosmetology Science Elements – Your complete professional line of high-end products and treatments Sunfilm – Stateof-the-art and highly efficient broad-spectrum sun filters For more information please contact us on: 011 033 0500
Radiant Healthcare is growing and will be moving to new premises to accommodate the growth experienced. The new Radiant Healthcare facility in Randpark Ridge will be have a new state of the art, training facility to accommodate students, new clients as well as aesthetic practitioners for new training courses to be offered on laser and IPL. technology. Workshops on Syneron and Coccon equipment be offered in 2014. The workshop will also be able to accommodate a high flow of equipment, of all Syneron Coccon and other aesthetic devices. The new address is The Studios, units D1 & D3, Ateljee Street, Randpark Ridge.
Sorbet Dry Bar Success Following the overwhelming success of the pilot Sorbet Drybar in Johannesburg, Sorbet is rolling out the concept countrywide through its new Sorbet Drybar franchise – and interested entrepreneurs are invited to be a part of it. Renowned as a national beauty and nail salon chain, Sorbet
expanded its service offering last year when it pioneered the innovative US hairstyling concept in South Africa. Essentially an express hair salon, Sorbet Drybar offers convenient, affordable blowdrys – no cuts or colours – in a relaxed, funky environment complete with in-salon entertainment.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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Your Touch Heals Your hands and eyeSlices® - the most soothing spa experience for your clients. With eyeSlices®, all it takes is five minutes to recapture that feeling of inner peace, recharging the soul and refreshing the body in a single comforting encounter. The perfect balance between science and nature, eyeSlices® targets puffiness, dark circles, tiredness, redness and wrinkles.
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NEWS
www.cal-mo.com 011 624 1101 Thank you very much for making Professional Beauty Johannesburg 2013 so successful for us. If you missed the chance to talk to us about Conversion Courses and/or Nail Art Courses, please contact us by phone or through our website.
MUD expands MUD (Make-Up Designory) celebrated the launch of a third new MUD Distribution centre in Gauteng Northern Suburbs owned and managed by Lindie Vermaak. This exciting launch hosted an intimate group of professional make-up artists and public VIP guests. Each attendee was treated to a short presentation about the benefits and features of the premium MUD brand and range of products. The showroom offers a full range of MUD Make-up products and Lindie also offers premium make-up training courses for beginners, intermediate and advanced artists. The launch was made a
further success by having MUD’s Lead make-up artist and celebrity makeup artist from the USA, Sean Conklin, do a half day make-up workshop. Sean demonstrated the use of airbrush make-up application, highlighting and contouring. He believes that your client should always be comfortable with the look you are creating for them and that sanitation is an important part of your regular routine as a professional make-up artist. He impressed with a dramatic day to evening look and striking red lips and flawless skin. Transforming our beautiful African skin by highlighting and applying the correct foundation.
New name, new vision Anesi Skin and Body, announced that the Company will officially be changing its name to Exclusive Beauty Solutions. Dalize Havenga explained that the new name would reflect the evolving focus and standards of the company, adding a new direction for the growth of the company and the expansion of acquiring new brands to the company’s strong portfolio of brands, being Anesi
Beaute and CND (Creative Nail Design). The name change to Exclusive Beauty Solutions will define the shift the company wishes to make for a stronger vision for the future. Dalize Havenga stands firm in stating that there will be no changes at all in company and customers and employees alike are optimistic about the alterations.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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In brief ■ Hannon’s words of wisdom: Hannon Bothma, co-owner of the 'Hannon' brand, is a house- hold name and is wellknown for his work as stylist and consultant on the make-overs featured on television and in all the major fashion magazines in South-Africa. He has now written a new book, "Maklik Mooi" that appeared on the shelves 2 weeks ago and has already sold over 10 000 copies. According to CNA's calculations, it is the most successful Afrikaans book currently sold in the country. A big thank you to everyone involved in producing this masterpiece and a big thank to all our supporters. ■ New acquisition: Marine Spa Distributors is excited to announce that we have secured the exclusive distribution of Medi-Heel in Africa. Medi-Heel has a range of products that create an experiential treatment which includes a pedicure ritual, encouraging consumers to move away from the traditional pedicure treatment. ■ New KZN Distributor: Lycon Distribution is expanding its national footprint even further by opening an office in Durban. Jenna Brown has been appointed as the Kwa-zulu Natal Regional sales and marketing manager. After three years working as a Beauty Therapist, Jenna is now looking forward to introducing Lycon to Kwa-Zulu Natal ■ Exclusive distribution rights: Cosmetic Corp has recently acquired the exclusive distribution rights for the professional HD makeup range namely Graftobian. Graftobian is well known to local beauty / makeup academies for the use of special effects makeup kits, and Cosmetic Corp introduced the full range of beauty HD makeup and airbrush makeup products to South Africa.
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NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
New Spa Organisation The new International Health & Wellness Alliance (IHWA) was formed at the recent Global Spa and Wellness Summit, which took place in Delhi, India. Representatives from some of the world’s leading spa brands have joined forces to create a new organisation to promote wellness among both professionals and consumers. The aim is to bring together wellness professionals and innovators to define, educate and advance health and wellbeing. Founding members of the not-for-profit alliance include Chiva-Som health resort in Thailand, Como Hotels and Resorts, Sha Wellness Clinic in Spain and Gwinganna Lifestyles Retreat in Australia, as well as spa consultants Lucie Brosseau and Samantha Foster. Foster told Leisure
Management that the alliance wants to formalise the term 'wellness' and to equip the industry with evidence-based, quality information on the subject.
'Safer’ rutile form of TiO2 in cosmetic products Research originating in Torino, Italy is encouraging sunscreen and cosmetics formulators to use the rutile form of titanium dioxide rather than anatase as tests have suggested it is safer. TiO2 (titanium dioxide) is a commonly used ingredient in many cosmetics, sunscreen, toothpaste as well as food products, and a research team from the Université de Luxembourg has found that one particular version could reduce the potential health risks associated with the widely used compound. Francesco Turci and colleagues carried out tests using two of the commonly used forms of TiO2 to address health concerns that have been reported on recently and to design a safer TiO2. Turci and
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
his colleagues explain that TiO2 is generally considered a safe ingredient in commercially available skin products because it doesn’t penetrate healthy skin. However, research has shown that the cosmetics ingredient can cause potentially toxic effects when exposed to ultraviolet light, which is the same kind of light that the compound is supposed to offer protection against. The researchers discovered that one of the two most commonly used crystalline forms of TiO2 , rutile, easily washes off and has
little effect on skin. Anatase, the other commonly used form, however, was difficult to wash off and damaged the outermost layer of skin, even in low ultraviolet light. The findings led to the scientists encouraging the rutile form of TiO2 when formulating skin care products. The research appears in the ACS journal Chemical Research in Toxicology.
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NECK - BUST AND Décolleté
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Lift and restore The areas below the jawline are sadly being neglected. It is up to the professional therapist to educate the customer on how to effectively treat the neck, décolleté and bust from the effects of ageing and gravity. Sally Harvey focuses on professional and at-home treatments.
A
lthough we find European women to have a greater awareness of bust, neck and décolleté treatments, this is not the case in South Africa. In general women still shy away from the subject. It is therefore up to the therapist to promote professional treatments or home-care products for these delicate areas. What we find with professional treatment of these areas is that the therapist either completely avoids the subject and the area during treatment, or, alternatively, goes full steam ahead without consulting the client first. The golden rule is to always discuss the client’s concerns during consultation, and provide the benefits of actively treating such areas. One should always be modest when performing these treatments by using proper draping and showing respect for the client’s vulnerability. It is vitally important to ensure that your client is comfortable at all times by asking the
right questions and monitoring any negative physical reactions during the treatment.
Skin focus As we should know, the skin of the neck, décolleté and bust areas is far thinner, because the underlying layers contain less collagen. The skin also contains less melanocytes, which makes it more prone to increased photo-ageing. Product needs to be applied at all times to the face, neck and décolleté, and this includes a quality sun block. Pigmentation and spider nevis are also more prevalent in this area due to hormones and the use of fragrances, coupled with exposure to the sun. If there is a lot of uneven skin pigment and skin aging Idalette De Villiers of Optiphi recommends investing in a product that contains retinol, as this will help to reverse the sun damage in the area. “Retinol will not only help with cell renewal, leaving
the skin healthy and glowing, but, at the same time, will help to build the dermis (structure and support system of the skin) for a firmer looking décolleté area,” she says. “Investing in skin peels will also help to improve the overall texture of the skin while progressively working on skin firmness,” she adds. “Sleeping habits impact visibly on the décolleté,” says Jacqui Faucitt of RegimA. “The therapist should therefore recommend strongly that the client sleeps either with one pillow or none. It has been found that sleeping with two pillows or more tends to develop more wrinkling of the neck and creasing of the décolleté.” In addition to treatments and products, one should advise the client to go to a gym to improve overall circulation and exercise the chest muscles for a firmer, healthier-looking bust and décolleté area. Suggest dietary improvements by introducing foods that contain more anti-oxidants. >
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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NECK - BUST AND Décolleté Ericson at-home care includes products such as the Multi-target Lifting serum to firm and strengthen the support of the breasts and Volume Cream for a better-toned more voluminous bust.
Your appointment with plastic surgery is postponed! DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED * PARABENS FREE * MINERAL OIL FREE PROPYLENE GLYCOL FREE * ALLERGEN FREE
Supplementation and a diet rich in Omega 3s, Vitamin C and Vitamin E are also recommended. It is also important to discuss posture, as this can greatly affect neck wrinkles and make a double chin more pronounced.
Professional treatments
JULIETTE ARMAND
|
info@poisebrands.co.za, TEL: +27 11 033 0500 w w w . j u l i e t t e a r m a n d . c o . z a
Mama Mio offers "Bootcamp for Boobs", a professional treatment which reveals an immediate 2cm lift after just one session. To start the treatment a back diagnostic is performed, waking up the blood flow and energy channels to release tension and improve posture for improved support of the breast area. The therapist also works on the feet during the treatment, using specific massage techniques to stimulate breast reflex, which is found in all five zones on top of the foot. Key products used during this treatment are: Skin Tight to tighten and re-texturise, Boob Tube, which is warmed and applied to the bust to help increase cell regeneration, inhibit the loss of collagen and “plump”” the skin cells, and Pro Strength 30% Fruit Acid Peel, which is applied to the décolletage and triceps to promote a youngerlooking cleavage and toned batwings, and removed after 10 minutes. Skin Tight, Shrink to Fit and Goodbye Stretch are also applied to the abdomen, shoulders, triceps and biceps. This one-hour treatment also includes a treatment protocol to tighten and tone flabby, fly-away arms. The powerful combination of ingredients present in both the product and mask used to treat these areas also improve elasticity, and repair the skin’s supporting structures.
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Mama Mio Boob Tube helps increase cell regeneration, inhibits the loss of collagen and ‘plumps’ the skin cells.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
NECK - BUST AND Décolleté
Pigment Restoration
LT International offers a host of products that can improve concerns relating to the neck, décolleté and bust area.
Acne Clearance Superficial Vascular Lesions Vascular & Pigmented Lesions
• Laser/RF Sales • Training • Education • Repairs • Maintenance • Installations V The Ultra Platform for Facial Contouring
Skin Rejuvenation
Ericson Laboratoire performs a complete revitalising treatment of the décolleté and bust with targeted action on the size of the breasts, as well as stretch marks and microcapillaries for better support of the bust. Morpho Bust professional treatment is supported by a range of at-home care products. It is designed not only to have a volumising effect, but also enables re-shaping of the bust contours with active ingredient Volufiline. This phytosterol targets the subcutaneous fat which forms an external cortex above the mammary part of the breast, to re-shape and increase breast fullness. In fact in vitro tests show that in the presence of increasing concentrations of Volufiline, the volume greatly increases, to reach 26 times the volume of the control cells. In terms of a significant reduction in the colour and morphology of stretch marks, Ericson Laboratoire introduces Dermochlorella, an extract of green micro-algae rich in amino acids and oligopeptides, which stimulates the expression of fibroblast genes to produce collagen l and lll. This ingredient is also restructuring, enabling the skin to regain tone and firmness. Patented plant active Firmiderm combines the substances and extracts of three plants to strengthen skin tone and elasticity, reducing skin hyperlaxity and improving skin microcirculation, while a new generation of hightolerance AHAs from the hibiscus sabdariffa activates cell renewal and improves the hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis. It is recommended to perform two one-hour treatments per week to achieve optimum results. LT International recommends the following products to be used on the neck and décolleté area, either during a professional facial treatment or as part of the client’s at-home routine: Oxiderma (Palmarosa, Ginger, Patchouli) to increase oxygen penetration to The DermaFix Collagen the tissue, normalise hormonal Conformer with peptides and soy protein has an activity and stimulate epithelial > enhanced lifting effect.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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Various Skin Conditions Super Hair Removal Skin Tightening
Leg Veins Wrinkles & Acne Scars Tattoo Removal & Fractional Non-ablative Skin Resurfacing Fractional Ablative Skin Resurfacing Hair Removal & Pigmented Lesions
The Comfortable Way to Eliminate Unwanted Body Hair
The Comfortable Way to Tone and Tighten your Skin
Contact: Andy Best Tel: +27 (0) 12 998 9844 Fax: +27 (0) 86 219 1942 Cell: +27 (0) 72 574 3159 Website: www.bestlasers.co.za Email: info@bestlasers.co.za
Laser Skin Resurfacing & Rejuvenation
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NECK - BUST AND Décolleté
LEFT TO RIGHT: RVB Oro Nero Supremeneck Filler helps to lift sagging skin and reduce the depth of wrinkles on the neck and around the chin area. Babor Firming Neck & Décolleté Cream promotes smooth, more elastic skin. RegimA Neck Firming Complex and the Breast & Décolleté Firming Complex are layered to regenerate and revive the skin. RégimA Stem Cell Activator contains natural phyto-oestrogens to address sagging, thinning skin on the neck and décolleté.
regeneration; and Elastoderma (Ylang Ylang, Roman Chamomile) to repair damaged skin (stretched/scarred) and improve collagen and elastin. The company also advises the use of its Coupederma (Roman Chamomile, Geranium, Ginger) which is wonderful for superficial veins and broken capillaries; Hydraderma (Mandarin, Clary Sage, Sandalwood) for optimal hydration; and Stretch Marks (Patchouli, Lavender), which is safe during pregnancy and can be used on breasts. DermaFix performs the following professional treatment protocol for a lifting and firming effect of the breast and décolleté area: after cleansing with DermaFix HydraSilk Cleanser, the Enzyme Lift with DermaFix Corrective Enzyme is applied to the area, and left for 45 minutes before removing and applying DermaFix Collagen Conformer with peptides and soy protein, which aids with the lifting technique. The company also advocates MT Microneedling roller treatments for immediate improvement, as well as a specialised peeling technique with DermaFix Advanced Peeling Systems with Vitamin A Propionate combination.
Retail offering Babor Firming Neck & Décolleté Cream contains active catalyst OsmoTec and Alpine stem cells to promote smooth, elastic skin in the neck and décolleté area. Q10 activates
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
cellular energy, while light-reflecting pigments have an instantly refreshing effect. Collagen plumps up the skin from the inside. RVB Oro Nero Supremeneck Filler acts as an intensive treatment to lift sagging skin and reduce the depth of wrinkles on the neck, and around the chin area, due to the intensive “filling” action of hyaluronic acid microspheres. It also features a 3D express lifting system obtained from tapioca, forming a tensor microfilm for an instant smoothing effect and facial support. Additional key ingredients include: caffeine, which has a lipolytic and re-shaping effect on the chin contour, haematite, which speeds up cellular rejuvenation, stem cells from brown algae, offering anti-ageing protection; and Oro yeast extract, which is clinically proven to “reanchor” and “re-densify” skin tissues and face contours. Phytomer Decollete Parfait helps to defend the neck and décolleté area from premature aging, which is particularly exacerbated by exposure to the sun. It provides the skin with renovating and brightening ingredients, which reduce the appearance of “creased skin” and help to
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fade liver spots and pigmentation. It also contains Oligomer, which delivers an ideal supply of all trace elements, strengthens the skin and helps to prevent cellular fatigue. This product can also be applied to the hands. For the décolleté and neck area, Optiphi recommends its Dermintense Activegel to target fine lines and wrinkles; Rejuvenating Revitalizer for sun-damaged skin; and Complexion Control to address uneven skin pigment due to sun exposure or the ongoing use of perfume on the neck area. RegimA advises its therapists to start treating the client with RégimA Scar Repair to help build and repair the neck and décolleté, layered with the Neck Firming Complex and the Breast & Décolleté Firming Complex. These products contain ingredients such as phytodermin, which sends messages to the DNA of the cell to multiply, regenerate the epidermis and dermis, and revive the skin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which stimulate collagen synthesis, firming, improving elasticity and suppleness, and helping to tighten lax skin. Thereafter they would introduce RégimA Peel and Heal 20% and 40% peels and perform them on a regular basis to help with the lines that appear, and also to assist with the melasma that forms on the sides of the neck. C-Innovation Pigment Perfector is also introduced to the area if there is melasma. PB
Phytomer Décolleté Parfait provides the skin with renovating and brightening ingredients.
TH S
IS NOT A BEAUTY AD THIS IS ABOUT SKIN HEALTH
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SPA FOCUS
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Small things make the
BIGGEST difference
We are sometimes too busy looking at the bigger picture, and neglect to pay attention to the smaller, significant parts that make it whole. Sally Harvey looks at the subtle differences that one can make to create an unforgettable journey for the client.
H
aving judged for the Professional Beauty Awards for the past seven years, as well as visited a significant amount of spas and salons during my time as editor of Professional Beauty magazine, I have been exposed to subtle yet highly effective points of difference which are now permanently stored in my memory bank. In other words, I will never forget those experiences, I will tell others, and I will return again no matter what the cost. Something you as a spa or salon owner wants to hear. I will also never forget the bad experiences, and bad news always travels more quickly and further. >
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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SPA FOCUS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
The Internet, social media and sites like 'Hello Peter' can reach a lot of people. The point I am trying to make here, is that you can go to the most beautiful architecturally designed spa with all that entices your sense of sight, but if the towels have a musky smell, the locker does not close properly, there is not enough toilet paper, and you step into your treatment room and they have not cleaned the body exfoliation off the floor from the previous client – and yes, all the above has happened to me personally – that is what you remember.
Keep on checking I have stepped into a Jacuzzi set at 40 degrees because someone didn’t check that everything was alright. I have then had the said outdoor Jacuzzi filled up in front of me with a hose pipe. You should be regularly checking that all is in
One should never leave the client feeling uneasy and lost, rather over-explain than under-explain. Do the tour
order. However, I f you realise there is a problem, then you first remove the client from the area, offer them a complementary beverage and a relaxing hand and foot massage while you go about adjusting the temperature. Always remember to keep on checking on that client to make sure they are comfortable and relaxed. One should never leave the client feeling uneasy and lost. This brings me to my next point: rather overexplain than under-explain. You should treat every guest as if they are a first-time visitor. This should not mean that you should make them feel as if they know nothing about visiting a spa or salon, but rather that you are their personal “butler” and are on call to assist, explain and serve.
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When it comes to being made to be special, I must say, I have always enjoyed having a quick tour of the spa before heading to the change area to get dressed. It allows me to find my bearings and introduces me to all that is on offer. It is imperative that the guest be escorted to the changing area, and given a proper explanation of how to get dressed. Do you know how many times I have not been told whether to remove my underwear or not, or whether it is advisable to put my costume on as my first treatment is in the Rasul chamber? I once had to walk back and change again because I was not informed properly, and this was at a five-star establishment, I might add. Also how many pause areas have I sat in waiting for my treatment
without anything to read, and, please I really don’t want to read a 2009 copy of Marie Claire – be more current. Place a copy of Professional Beauty out for your clients to read – you will be surprised how eager your clients are to learn about new treatments and technologies, and who knows this might lead to additional business through curiosity and communication. The same goes for brochures regarding your brands and treatments, make them accessible to your clients, as these can be used as a subtle means to spark your client’s interest.
Changing area I could continue forever when it comes to the changing area. I think it is because it is so often an area in the spa that is neglected. Let’s talk about removing dirty towels and gowns from the laundry bins regularly, and keeping the area spotless between clients. I visited a spa once that refolded the toilet paper every time it had been used. I don’t know how they did it – like mice because you would never have known they were there. I tested it again by leaving the change >
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room and then returning a minute later – paper refolded; now that is service. Have I forgotten that, no – and I visited that spa four years ago.
It’s in the lockers Lockers are another one of my pet hates in a spa. If they are lockable with a key sometimes you need to jiggle back and forward before they lock and then you sit for another few minutes trying to figure out how to yank the key out while still keeping it locked. The others are those coded varieties where you need to be James Bond to operate it. Honestly, keep it simple but don’t skimp on those quality finishes. Another area that constantly frustrates me is the lack of a place to put my personal items. Lockers should have enough space to hang clothes if needed. A really novel idea that I have so enjoyed is offering a box to place my jewellery in. When it comes to the treatment room, why, in so many cases, is there sometimes no place to hang my gown? These things are so simple, but so often forgotten.
View from the clients eyes And one cannot underestimate the importance of a good maintenance plan for your spa. It does not matter that you have a luxuriously tiled and finished steam room if you leave a pipe in your steam room exposed and burn your client’s leg as they walk past it to turn on the shower hose. What about large cracks on the ceiling – something a client can noticeably see while lying on their back – or face forward: how does the floor look? Add a flower in a bowl or paint the floor to create something more visually appealing that will distract the client from watching the therapist’s feet
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SPA FOCUS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Sadly we are losing sight of those small details that count more than we think. We always think bigger is better, but sometimes the small, simple pleasures hold the most value for us all.
Use consultation cards What has completely shocked me over the years is how many establishments do not use consultation cards, especially nail salons as they don’t feel it is necessary. Can I ask this one simple question – how do you record the client’s medical history, likes and dislikes; previous treatments; products used or purchased and so on without a card. How do you build a long-term relationship then with that client? Then we have the crowd that gets the client to fill in a consultation card but then the therapist does nothing with it. Once they have you on the treatment bed, they start the treatment. So what if I filled in on the card that I like my massage medium – engage with the client, confirm their preferences, and explain in detail what you are going to do during the treatment so that they feel relaxed. Then there is time for silence.
Retailing Do I see enough retail in a spa? No, and why? Because my client is here to relax and not be pushed to buy. What nonsense. Your client wants to feel better, that is why they are there and if you don’t provide them with advice on how to prolong the benefits of their visit, you are not looking after all your client’s needs. You do not need to be pushy, just informative and passionate about what you do and the brands you represent. The rest will follow. PB
As the editor-in-chief of Professional Beauty for the past seven years, Sally Harvey has gained extensive knowledge of industry and what is required to run an efficient and successful beauty business.
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Training: erika@puresenses.co.za info@adelesutton.com
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A new awakening Hartford House, the award-winning hotel and restaurant situated on the Summerhill Stud in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, recently opened a wellness centre on its grounds. Sally Harvey reports.
Facts about Hartford House • The only world-class hotel on a world-class racehorse stud in the world. • The restaurant is among the Top 10 in South Africa. • Situated on South Africa’s most famous thoroughbred farm near Giant’s Castle. • Home to the family of the last prime minister of the Colony of Natal. • Chosen by the rulers of Dubai as the location for their priceless stallions.
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f one looks at the enchanting aura of Hartford House, a wellness centre was seen by current owners, the Goss family, as the perfect extension to the country lodge’s tranquil and peaceful setting. Hartford House is all about leaving the world for a while, and escaping to a land rich in culture and history. It is about experiencing the old world charm of one of the country’s most beautifully restored colonial homes, getting in touch with the beauty of its natural surrounds, and enjoying the delicious, wholesome flavours of the restaurant’s highly acclaimed cuisine. It is about luxury, pampering, pure
indulgence, and, most importantly, reconnecting with and balancing the spirit. This is where the wellness centre plays such a vital role. The treatment menu has been designed to relieve stress and tension and promote pure relaxation. Over and above an extensive selection of massage therapies, such as Swedish, reflexology, aromatherapy, hot stone, deep tissue and lymph drainage, therapies that rebalance the body’s energies have been introduced. These include Reiki, bio energy rebalancing and chakra layout. In keeping with the holistic approach to wellness, Esse is the preferred product choice for the spa - a South African range of certified organic
skincare products for the professional market. The wellness centre was developed using the existing pool room area. The decorative finishes and details are inspired by the colonial charm and authenticity of the hotel’s fifteen incomparably styled luxury suites. The atmosphere is fresh, welcoming and relaxing with a touch of elegance and sophistication. Located next to the pool, it offers beautiful views of the establishment’s award-winning gardens. PB
Contact: 033 263 2713
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JOHANNESBURG
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Biggest and best Professional Beauty Expo is a beauty extravaganza of epic proportions. The two day event saw a total of over 18,300 eager visitors. Thousands of excited and passionate professionals poured through the doors, dying to get their hands on the latest developments that the industry has to offer.
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rofessional Beauty was an enormous success, you could see the delight and intrigue on visitors faces when absorbing all the exhibitors had on offer. I think it’s fair to say that every single exhibitor and visitor enjoyed the expo and, moreover, found it indispensable for their business. Having spoken with as many visitors as possible, all commented on the high-profile of
“Quality buyers, quality visitors”
quality visitors, products and services on offer. The halls were packed with next-generation industry trends and developments. “Quality buyers, quality visitors” was the general feedback received and that this year’s Professional Beauty show was the best one yet, proving year and year again that your success truly is our passion! The Hair Hall was exciting and vibrant with positive energy flowing. >
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JOHANNESBURG
online at www.probeauty.co.za
As usual the stage was a huge drawcard for exhibitors and visitors, showing the latest and most extravagant trends and developments in the industry. Ecstatic visitors witnessed the stage pumping with live demonstrations and performances by ghd, EOHCB, Revlon Professional, Inoar, Medavita, Philips and Twincare International, to name but a few. EOHCB hosted their National Hair Championships and was pronounced one of the best organised competitions in years. EOHCB VIP lounge drew a lot of feet for people to feel, touch and experience a little bit more of the beauty industry. We are already planning and striving for the same positive response for our Professional Beauty Cape Town on the 9th and 10th February 2014. A fair warning – wear comfortable shoes! With so much to take in, you’ll be there all day. PB
Francisco Garcia - Spa Director. Arabella Hotel & Spa, A Luxury African Pride Hotel “The program was great and the information shared was very good with lots of practical ideas for the attendees to take home and put into practice. Organisers did an incredible job organizing and being on top of everything and everyone’s arrangements.”
International Spa Convention The Spa Convention was one of the most interactive conventions to date. ‘Survival of the Fittest’ was the title of this year’s convention and was very much focussed improving business performance. The topics were credible and very practical for the delegates, packed full of tips and ideas to help managers and owners improve their businesses. The delegates were actively involved in the discussion of the topics which enriched the level of the contents shared and everyone got to hear different experiences, situations and best practices that all of us we can take home and apply to our business. The Spa Convention has become a more motivating and inspiring experience with the knowledge, leadership, and experiences shared to take their businesses to another level. Included among some of the highlight speakers was Neil Orvay from Sense of Touch in Hong Kong who was speaking on persuasion and influence psychology and how it is often overlooked in mundane interactions.
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Biggest and best conference yet! Dr. Binkowska “The conference was well organized and the topics were relevant with expert speakers, a big thank you for all the hard work” Debbie Powell “Your choice of content and lecturers were fantastic - well done!”
Medical Aesthetics Convention This year’s Medical Aesthetic Convention held at Gallagher was an exciting platform for some very interesting panel discussions between industry experts. The Doctor panel on trends in facial rejuvenation was very interactive and informative with many ideas being exchanged between the conference delegates and speakers. The business panel was a very interesting debate that contained some very practical ideas on how to go about converting a doctor’s practice into an aesthetic practice. International speaker, Dr Renier van Aardt from Canada demonstration was well received as he demonstrated some advanced techniques in peri-orbital rejuvenation, which resulted in his very lucky model leaving the convention feeling very satisfied with her new, more youthful appearance.
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The art of excellence The Professional Beauty Nail & Make-up Competitions, which were held on the 1st & 2nd September 2013 alongside the Professional Beauty exhibition at Gallagher Convention Centre, proved to be a great success with more than 80 competitors entering over the two days to, showcase their talents. Competition Director, Sonette van Rensburg reports.
Congratulations to all the winners and placements in the various categories who walked away with cash prizes, beautiful he two crystal trophies and gorgeous competitions, prize hampers sponsored which ran alongside by our category one another, had nail stylists and make-up sponsors in both artists participating in various competitions.
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categories to suit their skills and level of expertise. On the first day the Glamour make-up took place, with the theme of Anime, a form of Japanese animation art. The talent and creative skills, which the make up artists displayed in both the Masters and Novice levels, was outstanding, as was the creative work done by the nail stylists in the Nail Art competition, which had four different categories: Photographic Nail Art, Tip Box Nail Art, a brand new category to the competition, plus Freehand Nail Thank you Art and Fantasy Nail Art. to our judges: Other categories which Tracey Owgan, Oksana van took place were the > Tonder, Frederik Vuyk, Joshua Iding, Christelle Hatingh, Antoinette Oosthuizen, Carla Henning, Yvette Nel, Chantelle Tip Overlay Category Sculpting Figgins, Cynthia Du Toit, Category Tip Overlay Liquid & Powder Category La Reine Mulder, Carissa Winner: Claudette Roberts (Young Nails) Liquid & Powder Havenga, Charlene Masters Warwick Tip Overlay Novice Winner: Evelyn Jansen Winner: Jurike van den Berg van Vuuren (Jurix Loves Nails) Gel Masters Custom Colour Category Winner: Anelize van Tonder (Bio Sculpture) Winner: Katia Da Silva (NSI Africa)
Nail Competition Winners Nail Art Categories Photographic Category Winner: Tracey Lee (Tracey Lee) Free hand Category Winner: Annelien Britz Tip Box Nail Art Winner: Tracey Owgan (Magnetic Nails) 3D Fantasy Winner: Roelien van Aswegen (Indulge Nail Design)
Overall Winner Nail Competition: Evelyn Jansen van Vuuren
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Body Painting and Fantasy Make-up Competition and in the Nail competition, The Tip Overlay, Sculpting and Custom Colour. This year there were also plenty of new and exciting categories and elements, which were introduced to uplift the competitions and they did not go unnoticed, as one of the entrants and winner of the Custom Colour category, Katia da Silva said “All the extras made such a difference to the professionalism of the competitions, the prizes were great and so appreciated and the crystal trophies were a great accolade, besides all that, the atmosphere and vibe was awesome!” A very professional panel and team of judges dedicated their time and expertise to assess the competitors and had only the best of things to say; “We are absolutely thrilled and so excited to see that the standard and skills of our SA Nail stylists and Make-up artists are that of a very high standard, it just goes to show that on-going education and continuously competing in a professional competition such as this definitely adds to uplifting them.” We look forward to welcoming you all to the Professional Beauty Competitions next year and to an even more exciting, bigger and successful event in 2014. PB
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JOHANNESBURG
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Make-up Competition Winners Glamour Make-up Category: Anime Novice Category Winner: Nicola Dias (Annique Beauty Salon and Day Spa) Masters Category Winner: Liz Reineke (Xplizet Makeup Studio)
Fantasy Competition: The Hobbit Masters Category Winner: Tanya Olivier
Body Painting Competition: Paintings by Famous Artists Novice Category Winner: Nicola Dias (Annique Beauty Salon and Day Spa)
Overall winner Make-up Nicola Dias
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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Rewarding the winners Once again the Professional Beauty Awards were really challenging for the judges to agree on the winners. The level of competition just gets better and better.
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n these circumstances the slightest detail can be the difference between the entry that wins and those that don’t. All the judges were unanimous in saying that every year the bar just gets higher and that all participants were worthy contestants. Those that enter put in a lot of effort, firstly submitting their on-line entry and then if >
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JOHANNESBURG
selected, they go one to be assessed by two judges. All those that entered should be congratulated for getting to the judging stage, their hard work, time and energy put into entering is to be congratulated. The Professional Beauty Industry Awards are aimed at giving companies within the industry the recognition that they deserve. The first part of the process is that companies are nominated by those of you working in the industry in various categories and then voted for by you too. Its your chance to reward those companies > that give you the best service.
Professional Beauty AwardS Therapist of the Year
Winner: Nicolette Capula – Life Day Spa, Cape Town Finalists: Elansa Webster – Beauty Studio Mpho Nyelele – Carlton Hair Studio, Rosebank
Salon / Spa Manager of the Year
Winner: Jackie Avis – Oyster Box Finalists: Elansa Webster – Beauty Studio Lee Sieberhagen – Life Day Spa, Cape Town
Salon of the Year 3 Rooms or less Winner: Mommy Wellness Finalists: Placecol, Potchefstroom Rain Urban Boutique Spa
Salon of the Year 4 Rooms or more Winner: D’vine Skin and Body Finalists: Beauty & Balance Revive Skin Lounge
Nail Salon of the Year
Winner: SOHO NYC Nails, Waxing, Beauty Finalists: Dream Nails Beauty – La Lucia Skin & Nail Lounge
Day Spa of the Year
Winner: Life Day Spa, Cape Town Finalists: Fairway Day Spa Shambala Day Spa
Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year Winner: Finalists:
The Saxon Hotel & Spa Africology at the Maslow Hotel Arabella Hotel and Spa The Oyster Box
Boutique Hotel Spa of the Year
Winner: Spa de la Veille – Marion on Nicol Finalists: Isango Gate Sanctuary Banksia
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PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JOHANNESBURG
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Industry Awards Best Sales Representative:
Winner: Juanita Scholtz – Theravine Finalists: Carly Goetsch – Matis Kerry Kuffler – Thalgo Susanne Myburgh – Environ
Best Supplier – Skincare
As always, the winners were announced at the Professional Beauty Gala dinner, this year hosted at The Venue in Melrose Arch. Some 300 guests were in attendance to hear who the winners would be. This year the audience were entertained by comedian Mel Miller whose style of humour and delivery very much suited the occasion. Mel then compared the presentation of the awards. The winners joined him and the sponsosr of each category on stage to rousing cheers and applause as always. We then ended the evening dancing the night away with our favourite live band ‘Zenith’. A great way to end a fabulous evening.PB
Winner: Environ Finalists: Pevonia RégimA Theravine
Best Supplier – Equipment Winner: Smartbuy Finalists: HiTech Lasers Lamprobe SA Radiant Healthcare
Best Supplier – Nails
Winner: Finalists:
OPI NSI Sparkle Cosmetics (Essie & Gelish) Young Nails
Best Marketing
Winner: Finalists:
Dermalogica Environ ESP Spa & Salon Software RégimA
Best Training
SPONSORS:
Winner: RégimA Finalists: Calgel Environ Theravine
Entrepreneur of the Year
Winner: Yolande Bekker – Young Nails Finalists: Debbie Merdjan – Camelot Derek Terry – Lilian Terry International Ian Fuhr – Sorbet
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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Shaping problem areas
Achieving dramatic, life changing weight loss, should leave your customer with a great sense of personal achievement. Unfortunately, goal weight does not guarantee a perfect body and specific problem areas remain that diet or exercise will not improve. Karen Ellithorne examines the technology available for treating these areas.
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aving a healthy weight is definitely something to be proud of, but most people need a little bit of extra help in the form of professional treatments to help them achieve the body they want. One of the most exciting things about body shaping technology is that it is advancing all the time and we have come a long way from the G5 massage machines used in the eighties and nineties to get rid of unsightly cellulite. Some of the benefits of opting for body sculpting treatments are that most of the procedures are completely safe and painless, with very
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
above and left: Due to the 4th multichannel mode, Reaction has the ability to heat all dermal layers simultaneously
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MEDICAL AESTHETICS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
impressive, quick results. This can all be achieved without the cost or downtime of surgery. Each treatment can be used on its own or as part of a specifically designed treatment protocol in order to be able to give the customer the most effective results. Let’s take a look at some of the noninvasive body shaping options that are currently available and what they are best indicated for:
Some of the benefits of opting for body sculpting treatments are that most of the procedures are completely safe and painless.
Cryotherapy Cryotechnology is body shaping treatment that uses a controlled temperature of cooling, which is applied to a particular target area of the body, for a period of time. This causes the fat cells to break down, therefore, reducing the body fat without damaging the rest of the tissue. It is a non-invasive procedure that protects the surrounding tissue structures and will assist with reducing localised adipose tissue safely and effectively. “The Cooltech treatment works by placing two handles on an area of concern and the tissue is drawn into these handles via vacuum pressure. Due to the vacuum, the blood circulation in the treated area is temporarily interrupted. The treated area has a separation of tissue in which fat cells have been isolated from the rest of the living structures and are therefore protected from the extreme cold temperatures. The treatment takes a minimum of 45 minutes to preform and during this time the fat cells die off and get released into the lymphatic system where the natural metabolic process takes over, riding the body of toxins. Superficial fat is destroyed by 20% over a space of one to two months”, says Jayde Wilson from Radiant. Jayde also says that during the treatment the customer will experience a tautness of the skin followed by a gradual drop in temperature and vacuum. The treated area will then feel completely numb. After the treatment the treated area may remain red for 30-60 minutes and the customer may experience bruising. For one to eight weeks post the cryotherapy the customer may continue to experience tingling, sensitivity and sensory numbness in the treated area.
Carboxytherapy This treatment involves infusing CO2 just beneath the surfa ce of the epidermis; the body interprets this as
an oxygen deficiency and responds by increasing the blood flow to the area along with the vascular endothelial growth factor, which encourages the repair and production of new blood vessels. As a result, there is an influx of oxygen and nutrients into the treated area, and an increase in circulation, which results in the restoration of the cells. An increase in oxygen also has the ability to improve oedema and puffiness. On a dermal level the fibroblasts are stimulated to form new collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid which will have a tightening, firming effect on the skin. The heated gas during carboxytherapy, at a high volume, will also break down excess adipose tissue and increase circulation to the area that is being treated. In body sculpting, the effective increase in nutrients and tissue oxygenation, which result from the treatment, mean that any part of the body would benefit from this treatment. So therefore carboxytherapy can be very effective in improving the appearance of cellulite, stretchmark’s, excess adipose tissue and can also have a firming tightening effect on the skin
Above left: Cooltech treatment takes a minimum of 45 minutes.
component of soy lecithin and is claimed to be able to break down fat cells and therefore serve as an alternative to liposuction, it is also known to reduce cholesterol and increase body metabolism. Phosphatidylcholine is said to prevent the body from storing fat in problem areas and helps to speed up the body’s fat burning function. Lipolysis is used by doctors to remove fat deposits in specific body areas, namely double chins, fat around the waist, inner thighs, abdomen, knees and even ankles. It can also be used very effectively in combating cellulite
Radio Frequency Radio Frequency treatment is based on mild heating of the skin’s underlying network of collagen and elastin fibres. When our skin receives a high frequency electrical current the cells in our bodies interpret this as an >
Mesotherapy or Lypolytic injections Injection lipolysis is administered by a specially trained doctor and involves painless micro injections of fat dissolving ingredients, with the standard ingredient being phosphatidylcholine or PPC. The PPC is injected into the localised problematic areas of the body and the injections are targeted at the fat layer just below the surface of the skin. Phosphatidylcholine, is the main
Velashape from Radiant Healthcare.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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energy source, and the layers in our skin act like a resistor to the electrical current and depending on their level of resistance, will heat up to varying degrees. It is the process of heating that helps to tighten and rejuvenate skin, smoothing its appearance and reducing localised pockets of fat. The radio frequency energy penetrates the dermis and heat collagen fibres, causing them to contract and therefore also stimulating the fibroblasts to form new collagen and therefore resulting in a visible lifted effect. The fat cells are also stimulated to drain and shrink resulting in an improvement in stubborn cellulite. This results in firmer, more elastic skin without the need for local anaesthesia or pre/post preparations. Naomi Olivier from Medilase says that radio frequency is even more effective when working with a machine that has the ability to utilize the different RF frequencies in conjunction with different levels of vacuum therapy, this way one can target a specific layer of the skin to precisely heat the underlying network of collagen and elastin fibres and increase metabolic rate of
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MEDICAL AESTHETICS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
CUPPING FOR CELLULITE. With its origins in traditional Chinese medicine, cupping which was traditionally used treat fever, muscular pain, and used to remove toxins such as snake venom or bee stings, can be very useful in assisting with the treatment of unsightly cellulite. The cups that are made from ISO certified material are easy to use and have comfortable non-slip grips. These cups used in conjunction with premixed aromatherapy oil can dramatically intensify the results of a massage and assist with increasing circulation and lymphatic drainage in a problematic area.
subcutaneous tissue, this technology can be found in the Reaction machine that they distribute into South Africa. She also goes on to say that due to the 4th multi-channel mode, Reaction has the ability to heat all dermal layers simultaneously, to speed up the heating process. Melissa Ecksteen from Radiant Health Care says that with their technology they combine Infrared, vacuum and Radio Frequency, this
causes deep heating of the connective tissue including the fibrous septae. This in turn promotes an increase in collagen depositing and cellular metabolism resulting in a localized reduction in skin laxity and volume. The additional mechanical tissue manipulation causes an immediate increase in circulation and lymphatic drainage which are both essential components for healthy skin structure and effective treatment of cellulite.PB
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
STUDY GUIDES COMPILED BY EXPERTS WITH EXPERIENCE IN EDUCATION For the foundational subjects required to achieve the unit standards of the NQF Level 5 Diploma in Health and Skincare and Therapeutic Complementary Therapies. Worksheets and self-evaluation question papers are included. • Give your students what they like best: To-the-point notes and questions for self-evaluation • Ensure excellent results • Promote self-study • Meet accredited standards
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Hot on target Exilis is designed to deliver controlled thermal energy to top skin layers to effect skin tightening and smoothing. Sally Harvey finds out what this system is really capable of achieving. Before
After
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f one was to tell you that you can lift the face, reduce wrinkles, and with the same machine make the body thinner, tighter and reduce cellulite, you would find it hard to believe. That is how I felt, but when you start reaching a certain age, and the wrinkles are more clearly defined, the jowls start to sag, and your brow looks like it is in need of a lift, the more keen you are to find a non-invasive solution that does not disrupt your life and cause unnecessary pain. For me one of the major plusses is that this treatment is virtually pain-free and in no way can one get burnt. This is due to Energy Flow Control (EFC) – a safety feature stemming from the proprietary grounding pad, which allows the device to check the resistance of the skin. For example, if there is a sudden spike in energy, due to encountering a different area of skin or improper contact, EFC will shut off the energy. Exilis also features a built-in temperature sensor in the handpiece for easy reading and heat titration, and a cooling system, which enables a better toleration of the higher temperature for a better result. Radio frequency is also colour-blind, so this system can safely be used on all skin types. What is even more interesting about this dual energy technology (ultrasound and monopolar RF) is
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that, after the start of the treatment, the therapist is able to reach the desired temperature very fast without the treatment being unpleasant. Therefore, Exilis allows you to achieve better results, faster, and without compromising on safety. If we look at the economics of using this equipment, it benefits both practitioner and client, because the only disposable required per treatment is a ground pad, which costs less than R30 per session. So as a client, how did I feel after the treatment? Other than slight redness of the face, which faded on the way to the car, a big advantage was that I could continue with my life as normal – no lathering of SPF post-treatment or private vacation time behind closed doors.
Before
From the first treatment, I could see a noticeable improvement not only in the texture and tone of my skin, but also a marked lifting and tightening effect. And people around me noticed it too! This is apparently due to the treatment’s immediate contraction of the collagen bundles. What I had to look forward to, after completing my course of six treatments spaced one week apart, was the long-term effect (one and half years after treatment), whereby the intense heating action stimulates new collagen synthesis within the skin. PB
Contact: BTL Medical SA on 076 232 8058 btl-sa@btlnet.com www.btlnet.com
After
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The complete package The Syneron elos Plus provides a complete skin rejuvenation approach to ageing skin. With multiple applicators it can either zone-in on targeted concerns or provide total facial renewal in as little as three treatments. Sally Harvey takes a closer look.
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efore any treatment can take place, the therapist performing such treatments has been trained to provide a thorough consultation to establish the client’s concerns, needs, medical history and possible contraindications. In my case, the main concern was pigmentation and overall skin tone. As such, the therapist only needed to use the SR applicator as it is specifically intended for the treatment of benign vascular and pigmented lesions. So how does it work? If we look at the technology behind this system, you will see that bi-polar radio-frequency is combined with optical energy. This enables the machine to deliver results in the safest, most comfortable way. In terms of the specific application: the melanin absorbs the light and heats up; the pre-heated melanin, in turn, attracts the radio frequency; the melanosomes are broken into small particles by the heat and the melanincontaining cells are damaged. I was told that post treatment, the vascular lesions would fade from sight, while pigmented lesions would darken and flake away within a week or so. Optimal results would be seen by booking 3-5 treatments every 3-4 weeks. The treatment, particularly if performed on the entire face, would also improves overall skin texture and tone. What I liked about the treatment was
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Before that, other than the initial consultation, the treatment itself was over in less than 30 minutes, so I could easily have the treatment during a lunch hour. The only problem for some might be that you cannot apply any product or foundation for at least 12 hours post treatment, due to the continued presence of heat in the skin. In terms of safety, I was pleased with the machine’s ability to immediately switch off should my skin’s tolerance levels be compromised, avoiding the possibility of being burnt, coupled with the use of a cooling tip for added comfort. I must say, I was also was intrigued by the triniti’s total facial renewal protocol, whereby I could look at the use of three applications to deliver overall skin rejuvenation results. So, where the applicator above would work exceptionally well for my targeted concern - pigmentation, I could now look at adding the effects of two more applicators to the mix. Over and above the SR for colour correction, the therapist would use the ReFirme ST to improve the laxity of areas such as the brow, jowls, neck and cheeks. The procedure uses a combination of gentle pulsed infrared light (wavelengths 700-2000 nm) and
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
After bi-polar radio frequency to provide deep dermal heating, up to 4mm in depth. This results in the stimulation of long-term collagen synthesis, as well as the tightening of existing collagen fibers. The Matrix IR applicator is intended for non-invasive deep wrinkle treatments, using fractional elos technology – a combination of bi-polar radiofrequency energy and diode laser energy – to penetrate into the deep dermis, down to 2.5mm, activating a reservoir of fibroblast cells for quicker healing of damaged zones while promoting the synthesis of collagen in-situ. In summary, this equipment is highly versatile. It is upgradeable, so it gives the operator 10 different applications for a variety of indications, so there is a solution for single or multiple concerns. PB
Contact: Radiant Healthcare 011 794 8253 sales@radianthealth.co.za www.radianthealth.co.za
Visibly Better!
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IPL
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Advanced activity Environ’s facial treatments combine advanced active ingredients and technologies, not only to rejuvenate and repair the skin, but also to promote overall skin health. Sally Harvey talks to one of its clients about the noticeable changes in her skin. Before
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s Environ is a skincare programme where activity of product is gradually increased over a period of time, according to the client’s skin and sensitivity levels, I thought it best to review a treatment being performed on a client who had already been using the products and having regular monthly treatments for at least a year. The candidate was perfect, as she had been a dedicated user of Environ for the last ten years, and, as such, could give me a very good indication of how her skin had improved. I was also able to see a facial being performed using the highest level of Vitamin A, for greater activity and maximum benefit on the skin. While the therapist applied the Precleanser and Clay Masque (to dissolve excess surface oil, hydrate and microexfoliate the skin), and prepared to steam the face, I was able to ask the client more about her experience using Environ and what benefits she had seen on her skin. “After two years of regular Environ monthly facials, I could not believe the difference,” she says. “My pigmentation has faded to almost nothing. I am also impressed with the improvement in the texture of my skin, the plumping effect the products have on my skin, and the added radiance, not to mention the fact that my skin no longer produces excess oil - it remains balanced, and healthy.” While the steam is working its magic, the therapist applies Dermalac Lotion,
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
After
One of her major concerns was the distinct square patch of pigmentation on her forehead, caused by laser therapy. Alpha Gel and Body Oil to the client’s feet and wraps them up in cling wrap. Environ has purposely included pampering elements to the facial, as, unlike most traditional facials, the therapist does not perform a massage during the treatment. As she explains: “The aim of this Ultimate Vitamin Therapy Facial is to transport the highly active ingredients deep into the skin. Once we have achieved this feat, it would be counter-productive to massage the skin, as this action would draw the ingredients back to the skin’s surface, and we would have lost the ability to achieve such deep penetration again.” Improved penetration is achieved by using the Environ DF Machine. After removing the Pre Cleanser and Clay Masque with the Cleansing Gel and Alpha Toner Mild, the therapist applies the Intense Retinol Serum and works it into the skin with the DF machine. This is accomplished using low-frequency Sonophoresis and pulsed Iontophoresis. In fact, when product is applied topically the penetration level is between 0.1% and 4%. With Iontophoresis, four times greater penetration is achieved, and 40 times greater penetration is reached with the use of low-frequency Sonophoresis. The therapist also applies an alginate mask to the skin to be used as a conductor for Iontophoresis, ensuring
optimum penetration of the Intense Retinol serum. This mask also stops trans-epidermal water loss from the skin, thus aiding hydration. While the alginate mask is left on the face, the therapist massages the client’s décolleté and shoulders with Environ Massage cream and removes the cling wrap from the feet, massaging excess product into the skin. This makes the client feel pampered and relaxed. Finally, once the mask is removed, the Hydrating Oil capsule, with a blend of anti-oxidants and retinol, is applied to energise the skin, followed by RAD sunscreen to protect the skin from harsh environmental influences and the damaging effects of the sun. What I enjoyed most about this facial is the fact that the therapist can effectively use it as a starting point, adding additional therapies, depending on the client’s concerns. These could include Environ’s peeling system, LED light therapy and needling. PB
Contact: Environ on tollfree@environ.co.za www.environsa.mobi www.environ.co.za
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Talking shop As the skincare market becomes ever more competitive, suppliers need to keep innovating and communicating, writes Hellen Ward. It’s interesting to see how skincare brands are justify the cost of a facial if she can do it herself at home. coping out there in this tough climate. Now There has to be some technology, some USP to get her that we have a product line and have dipped to commit to and believe in the treatment. And all of our toe in the professional sector, I realise that takes investment in innovation from the brand how hard it is to sell products. supplying the products and the tools they give us to It’s equally hard to come up with the right make it a strictly professional service. product to sell to salons to use in treatments • Make the relationship personal – I was If you’re going when the choice on the high street is getting talking to a famous salon owner recently more and more sophisticated and consumers to compete, one who changed his whole business over are tempted to buy professional brands from using one brand to another based thing’s for sure, through online outlets. If you’re going to on nothing more than the relationship compete, one thing’s for sure, you need you need to he’d developed with the person running to do a lot of listening to your customers. it. Good relationships with the brands we do a lot of All the brand strategies in the world can’t stock matter hugely. compensate for a failure to listen to the listening to • Ask your customers – just like we have people who are putting the money in your till. to. Ask what they like, what they don’t, your customers. Statistics tell us that half of all skincare what could be done better. Then act on the brands fail in the first four years. It’s dog eat feedback. dog out there. So what should the focus be Most brands don’t make any money for the for those that survive? These are the top five things first three years and take around 10 years I want out of suppliers. I’d be interested to hear if to establish themselves. Most search you agree: constantly to find their ‘hero products’ • Understand the professional business – and some never do find the holy grail. whereas suppliers sell product, we sell time. We Yves Saint Laurent was going a hell of buy their product to help us compile a service. a long time before it launched Touche There’s no point trying to bypass the supply Eclat. Some start with a great product chain and go straight to the customers; that’s and grow a brand out of it – Elizabeth our job. We find that the brands that “walk Arden 8 Hour Cream being an example. off the shelves” understand this. Getting The common denominator is that the professional onside is critical and constantly finding out what to do that the products have to be their customer wanted was exceptional. The team has to believe key to their success. in them. If they don’t, they’re going We are the customers of nowhere. the professional brands. • Make the treatment professional Obviously they need to only – The therapist’s aim is to do research to make sure get the client to re-book for the they are in tune with the professional treatment and sell zeitgeist, but the power her a retail product to use as of asking us, the real homecare in the interim. The aim customers, what we should never be just the latter. If need should not be it is, the concept is flawed. For a underestimated – the treatment to be great, it has to be feedback might just results driven. Professional products be enough to help help us to achieve this, as does any product remain some professional “kit”. Bring on in such a the machines, I say – create some competitive theatre. sector. PB • Innovate – the client is more savvy than ever before. She has more choice and is more cost conscious. She can’t
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.
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For more information on distribution opportunities visit us at: Shop 4 1st floor 222 Brickfield Road Overport Durban Tel: (031) 207 3844 or contact Ayesha: 071 146 8393 Rookaya: 082 775 7786
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The Business of Beauty Blog Have you ever wondered why some people get into the beauty industry with great intentions, and then, just never seem to get anywhere, while others are tremendously successful? Debbie Merdjan has an answer.
The truly successful have perfected the formula for success. We are in the Beauty “Business” yes, I said business. Unfortunately if we don’t look after business, there’s not a lot of beauty left over! Many join the industry because they want to help people. Unfortunately, the truth of the matter is that unless you are successful, you will absolutely fail at helping others because you simply won’t last in business long enough. If you aren’t seeing the results you desire you need to change things, turn your passion into a thriving business that generates a good income. Of all the resources in business, your team working with you is crucial! You need an “A Team.” A motivated team can be the make or break of your business. Motivation is a complex art and whilst the norm is appreciation and reward, the same incentives will not work on all therapists. You need to know what makes your staff tick, understand their aspirations and personal goals. Your priority must be to assess your team’s motivation, effectively deal with non-performance and create a high performance culture. So, you acknowledge you need to do something about your team’s spirit, but where do I start? What follows is my Communication Formula, which is centered around the key aspect of our Beauty Industry – ETHICS. “What has ethics got to do with motivating my team you may ask?” If you apply my Communication Formula you will be steps away from success.
As a business owner, manager or therapist you need to lead by example and exude energy! Visualize a train running on full energy vs. chugging along and relate this to your business. Energy equals success!
E is for ENERGY
I is for INFLUENCE
Your team cannot be motivated without being energetic, passionate and inspired.
Lead by example and remember that a great leader has the ability to
T is for TRANSFORMATIONAL If your business is stagnant or you want to spark new revenue growth, you need to implement strategies to transform your business and reinvigorate your staff. Your aim is to have them spellbound, hanging on every word you say, motivated and ready to achieve ALL goals and exceed targets. Develop a brand and ethos that cultivates loyalty within your staff.
if we don’t look after business, there’s not a lot of beauty left over! H is for HEARING Many employees often have insightful ideas that can make a significant difference to your business progress. When you face a work related problem, share it with your team. Take your problems to them; discuss and look for ideas to overcome challenges together. Once they feel they are part of a team it will become easier to motivate and excite them.
influence people and see both sides of an issue. Compromise and negotiation are the two of the most powerful tools a person can have. Decisions you make which influence people equals success. Remember to work on me and we, create value and Inspire leadership. A positive attitude is the biggest symbol of hope and success is always contagious.
C is for CELEBRATE There’s no point setting goals if you don’t celebrate achieving them. Catch people doing something right and focus on recognizing excellent performance. Provide positive reinforcement; perhaps use a newsletter to highlight specific achievements, send thank you cards and congratulatory notes. Employees want regular updates and feedback about their personal performance. Use one-onone and group meetings to keep your team abreast of changes, updates, new products, etc.
S is for SUCCESS Successful entrepreneurs have excellent time management and often work with a to do list, stop doing list and a to be list. Success is achieved by a purpose driven business, guided by a set of global values, courage, integrity, empathy, teamwork and accountability. Success requires speed of implementation, continuous action and the more you implement the more you will progress. There are no excuses - If there is a problem, come up with a solution. You need to create a culture of success amongst your team and remember to use success models in client attraction and client retention. PB
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. Debbie has been in the industry since 1982 and by following her passion for health, wellness and beauty started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987 and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
The New CryOmega速 delivers a clinically safe, hassle-free pinpoint precision treatment method suitable for most common benign and pre-malignant epidermal skin-lesions. It delivers 30-45 (5-sec.) sprays per device with direct continuous spray freezing at an effective temperature of (-89C) nitrous oxide. The actual number of available treatments may vary depending on the mix of lesions treated, and their size. Cost-effective and easy assembly with no need for additional replacement cartridges. Once the internal cartridge is activated it is ready for use.
For the treatment of: cherry angioma | fibromas | skin tags | actinic keratosis |acne scar/-cyst | sun/-age spots | permanent make-up | freckles | ingrown hair | warts /-planter warts | verruca plana/-vulgaris | cholesterol deposits | sebaceous hyperplacia | molluscum contagiosum | melasma | skin peeling(feathering).
The DermLite DL-100 Polarised Dermatoscope allows for microscopic visualization of subsurface skin structures not visible to the naked eye. It allows the trained eye a 2mm in-depth view for the early detection of skin cancers and other types of skin conditions. This is the tool of choice for its portability, efficiency and convenience and to the user it is beneficial to identify and differentiate melanocytic from non-melanocytic epidermal skinlesions.
sole distributor |contact us today: 082 457 9776 | info@cryomega.co.za www.cryoconcepts.com CONDITIONS APPLY
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Healthy Ageing@Dr Gys
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Good fat, bad fat Dr Gys Du Plessis answers your health, wellness and anti-ageing questions. I am a young mother and very concerned about my family’s health. What is totally perplexing to me is all the contradicting and scary information on the fats we eat and use in our food today. Could you please give me some clarity on this matter?
Y
our fear and confusion is very real. I don’t care how you say this word…sing it, cheer it, say it with a French accent…whenever people hear the word 'fat' they flinch and go running in the opposite direction. It’s pretty unfortunate because I would like to briefly tell you how wonderful some fats could really be. And, no, I’m not talking about the kind that sits on your belly and never goes away. I’m talking about the fats that you eat and supercharge your health and your fat burning efforts. To be practical let us categorize them in the good fats, the bad fats, the ugly fats and start looking at them in the opposite order
even in causing Diabetes. Most of the research that has proven that fat makes us fat was done on saturated fat when consumed as much as in the context of a ‘normal’ Western diet. The fatty acids found in Saturated fats are nonessential, thus do not have to be taken in. The rule when it comes to saturated fats is caution: When directly from animals it is good if taken in moderation but real bad if it is in the processed form.
THE BAD: TRANSFATS & HYDROGENATED FATS
The best of the fats with proven health benefits are the unsaturated fats. They are divided into Mono-and Poly-unsaturated fats. These fats are essential which means they are not produced in the body and needs to be taken in. The mono-unsaturated fats have great health benefits especially for the heart when they replace saturated fats in the diet and are one of the main heart and health protecting aspects of the Mediterranean Diet, which contains olive oil as its main fat. Poly-unsaturated fats are divided in Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids. Omega 3 fatty acids are EPA and DHA found in Oily fish with over 3000 studies confirming health benefits in heart disease, mental health, brain development, skin conditions, Insulin resistance, arthritis and the list goes on. The Omega 3 fat ALA from Flaxseed (which are often suggested as a vegetarian alternative to fish oil) has unfortunately not got much evidence to support its use or to indicate that it is a worthwhile replacement. If you are
In the fat world the ones you particularly want to avoid are Transfats and Hydrogenated fats. These are fats that have changed during processing and are often found in hard margarines, cookies, biscuits and deep fried foods. The changes that happen during the processing, especially heating makes these fats and oils very difficult if not impossible for our bodies to process. They just make us fat and lead to inflammation because they are toxic to our bodies. The call here is definite no for your family
THE UGLY: SATURATED FATS The second least favorite is the Saturated fats – mostly because it is animals fat, something we ourselves (as animals) can actually MAKE in our bodies. Examples are: processed meats, confectionery, cream and cheeses as well as palm kernel oil and coconut oil. Too much saturated fat has been implicated as the villain in heart health, metabolic syndrome and
THE GOOD: UNSATURATED FATS
vegetarian and have to use it, just make sure you use it in ratio of three to one to Fish oil. Omega 6 fatty acids are found in grains, vegetable oils and seeds. There is an overabundance in most of our diets and have been proven to promote inflammation in our bodies. Aside from GLA, a fatty acid in Evening Primrose Oil, a supplement to help with female health, most of us should not take any additional Omega 6 food supplements.
The bottom-line If you find yourself in the grocery aisle in a rush with a million other things to do, follow this rule of thumb to find the healthier fat: the more liquid at room temperature it is, the better. Avoid the trans – fats, use saturated fats in moderation and use mono- unsaturated fats and Omega 3 abundantly. PB
Dr Gys du Plessis has a keen interest in holistic, integrative and aesthetic medicine. He has founded and led two holistic centres in South Africa and is the medical director for Nimue Bioscience International. To touch base with Dr Gys visit: www.facebook.com/drgys1
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ĂŽ
NAILS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Nailing the
Visiting the Nail salon has become more than just a matter of having a manicure or pedicure to relax or feel good; it’s an absolute must to being well groomed and looking the part.
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NAILS
retail It’s not just about being seen in the most state of the art nail salon or showcasing the latest nail trends, but also about receiving treatments, services and being able to purchase products that are beneficial to them. Sonette van Rensburg elaborates.
S
o how often will a regular client visit the nail salon and why, it all depends on what their requirements are. What we all seem to forget however, is that they all have very specific needs and goals they would like to achieve. Whether it is to toughen up their nails, improve the condition and appearance of their skin, get rid of calluses on their feet, lengthen their nails, or they could even just require some attention and TLC. Every client that has either a manicure, pedicure or even a set of nail enhancements, will benefit from at least two of the most must have products; Cuticle Oil and Hand cream. These are items that should be selling like hot cakes and are so easy to sell, yet I have come across so many woman who don’t have or make use of those items. Woman regularly ask me for advice on what to use on their skin and nails and many of them visit the Nail Salon, so why are they not getting advice and purchasing from you? In a previous article we spoke about the sales approach, understanding peoples needs, The 7 steps of a sale, FAB’s (Features, Advantages and Benefits,) link selling, questioning and listening skills. It’s one thing being able to have mastered all of the above, but all too many times I have seen a sale go astray and get lost at the very last minute. Surely you must ask yourself one question, “Why, if I have done all the correct things did I not manage to close that sale?” Lets recap and take a look at some of the most fundamental steps towards a successful sale and most importantly closing it effectively without losing an opportunity.
Initiating a Sale So where does it all begin and where does it all end? It is only with one person and that’s you! It’s an ongoing cycle that can continue over a long period of time, or can so easily end just like that! We all visit the local grocery store because we need to purchase certain necessities that we just cant live without. While doing so there are other items we end up buying that we don’t really need, however we are still drawn to them. It’s all about creating a need for an item and reason > for purchasing it.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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NAILS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
The selling process already begins, from the minute the client walks through your doors and you greet them
The selling process already begins, from the minute the client walks through your doors and you greet them, gradually building your relationship with them from the start and throughout the entire service. Some people may need a little more convincing and others will buy anything at the drop of a hat, however I believe that if you have passion and believe in what you are selling, half the battle is won and closing a sale becomes effortless, and you can sell to just about anyone. The most important thing a client needs to have, is trust in the person selling to them and the advice that they are giving them, selling an item to someone you know will not utilize or benefit from that product or does not really need it, will only result in
mistrust and no repeat sales. The best place to start is with Consultation and then making recommendations while you are performing a treatment on your client. By following some of the most basic and common sense steps during the service you can only set yourself up for a successful sale; • Communication - Communicate with your clients as to their needs and exactlty what it is that they would like to achieve fro m their service, this is really important and will already give you some indication or idea of what you could possibly recommend. • Observation and Analysis - Make sure that you observe and analyse the clients, hands, feet or nails, by looking at the
condfition of them. Combined with communicating with your client this will really assist in establishing exactly what it is they need. If a client has weak nails, dry torn cuticles, calluses or dehydrated skin, they will be ready to take your advice as to improving the situation so why not take this up as an ideal opprortunity to initiate the sale. • Try it – Don’t just talk about a product, try it! There is nothing more convincing than using a product on a client and them being able to smell it, feel it and most importantly seeing the results. However do not recommend products that you don’t have available for retail or that you are not able to try on them. • Meeting a clients expectations - It’s all good and well the client has now tried the product, believes that it could assist to resolve her problem, but if you are not providing them with the appropriate products and correct information as a nail professional, they will simply go to the next salon or cosmetics store that does. • Educate - Use every opportunity to educate your clients, always recommend products that they need, educate them
Yvette Nel – Educator LCN SA An important part of the selling process is making sure you tell every client what homecare products you have available to enhance the result of your work done. Know your products – what active ingredients it contains, when and how to use it to achieve the best possible result, when the client can expect a result. Do not keep quiet and overlook the problem the client has! Always present with your all and be excited about what you have to offer. Don't miss out – Many times I walk into salons with products on their table, which they do not sell in their business – it blows my mind! Salons are missing out on sales by not using on their clients what they have on your shelves to sell.
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Fact is, clients' love buying, so don’t let them miss out spending that money in your business! Use retail tools like “story cards.”A retail card should not only lie on your table – it should be used by the nail stylist to educate the client on what she needs for home use. It can exist of: Sealing Top Coat - to apply between fills, to have a beautiful finish consistently. Cuticle care – creams, oils, or something suitable for the requirements of the client. Natural nail care – even when clients have product
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
recommend and sell to on their nails their Renew them. natural nail should your mind Put this all together still be taken care and make in a beautiful bag of : the healthier and sell it at a better the natural nail the selling your price that what they better the product business! would pay for the will last. products individually. Hand care – scrubs, masks, creams Take interest in offering the best possible solution for your Hygiene – educate the clients clients’ need/s! Have stock on cross contamination immediately available to be through hands and how this able to close the sale in the can be prevented with the use moment. of a hand sanitizer. Nail file – everyone needs a file Take part in the new product from time to time, don’t allow releases your supplier offers, them to buy one elsewhere so you can move with the and use it incorrectly – rather seasonal trends and always teach them how to do it have something new and correctly with the file you exciting to offer to your clients.
NAILS Ask for
Getty Gizaw
The Original
Bio Sculpture® Gel
Owner of SOHO NYC, Nails, Waxing and Beauty salon – Award winning Nail Salon of the Year two years running. I truly believe that the only kind of “real” selling there is, is the kind in which you as the “Seller” believe in the product/item that you are selling, wholeheartedly, 100%! The train of thought that prevails is the one which you are not TRYING to sell, you are simply explaining to someone your “real’ experience with the item and it becomes more so of a “testimony” rather than a pitch or an effort to close a sale. Case in point: We have our own Vitamin E product which I call the “Magic Cream”! I swear, this cream is an incredible moisturiser. We use this cream in mostly our nail and massage treatments. We sell it in the shop and can’t keep enough of this stuff on the shelves! It is so good that it actually helps with improving scar tissue. I burned myself on the metal grill of a fireplace; the doctor said it looked like a third degree burn when I showed her the burns. I used the moisturiser on the burn and the results are incredible! Why would I need to try and sell this product? I use it, believe in it and swear by it 100% therefore our clients buy it.
on why they need it, when and how often to use it and how long it will take before they can expect results, • Link selling – Link selling can also be very beneficial to you and help to generate extra revenue, income and commission, so use every opportunity to do so. Recommend complementary products to the ones they are already interested in buying, offer alternatives if you are out of stock.
Nailing the Sale You can spend a lot of time with one single client going through the whole process. However closing the sale means following through from the beginning right up until the absolute very end, making sure the client walks out your nail salon with the recommended products. • Be sincere and show your clients that you care and are interested in them and assisting them to achieve their goals. • Don’t just provide your client with a reccomendation card, be sure to guide them to the reception area with the products they are interested in, confirm that they are happy with what you have advised to ensure service longevity with the products they are purchasing. • Finally reassure them that if they are not sure of something that they are welcome to call and ask for further advice. A very important point to remember though is to be careful not to overpromise anything, rather under promise and over deliver, this is a great way of building a good rapport and trust with your client, making sure they return to you time after time. PB
Sonette has been in the nail and beauty industry for 24 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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New
R160 (suggested) 30 minutes
4 Weeks Possibillities
Foresight
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PRODUCT FOCUS - SUN PROTECTION
Excessive sun exposure has disastrous consequences and is a public health concern. For a stress-free holiday, let’s simply use a little common sense to ensure only the very best of the sun is included in our holiday memories!
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Take care > choose the right time of the day for sun exposure: it is essential to avoid the sun’s scorching rays between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. > treat yourself to fashionable accessories, and be sure to take them everywhere: sunglasses, hat and t-shirt.
> share the pleasures of the beach or pool with young children before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., and never expose them directly to sunlight. > Apply sunscreen liberally every 2 hours, choosing the right protection factor for your skin type, and don’t forget that a sunscreen can never provide 100% protection, whatever its sPf.
Triple Protection
Protecting the skin against The patented sun’ytol future complex®‚ found in the AGE DEFENCE and body sun the damaging rays offacethe range, combining Astaxanthin and SUN’yTOL®, offers against UVA sun is “rampart most protection” probably one ofand UVB rays and helps protect the skin from sun-induced the best ageing and preventative the appearance of sunantispots. ageing measures you can take. Professional Beauty focuses on sunscreen products that can deliver.
A radiant tan whilst protecting your skin!
The patented Sun’ytol Future complex‚ found in Thalgo’s Age Defence face and body sun range, offers “rampart protection” against UVA and UVB rays and helps protect the skin from suninduced ageing and the appearance of sunspots. The sun creams have a smooth and creamy nonwhitening, non-greasy and non-sticky texture and are delicately scented with sweet notes of vanilla, caramel and coconut. 011 880 3850
Press Kit May 2013
Dermalogica Super Sensitive Shield SPF30 is a chemicalfree broad spectrum sunscreen ideal for sensitised, reactive and recently resurfaced skin. Its UV Smart Booster Technology (an encapsulated complex of antioxidant Vitamins C and E) scavenges UV-induced free radicals while enhancing photoprotection, while its UltraCalming Complex helps reduce sensitivity, redness, irritation and inflammation. 011 268 0018
Babor Anti-Aging Sun Cream for the face has a high SPF and contains an extract of sea lavender to strengthen the skin’s protective mechanisms. Its anti-oxidant features neutralise free radicals, which are the main cause of premature skin aging. The cream also acts like a shield, safeguarding the cells and extending the skin’s natural protection. 011 467 0110
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
Priori Radical Defense SPF 30 combines broad spectrum UVA/UVB sun protection with environmental protection from oxidative stress and free radicals with Idebenone Complex – an innovative delivery system that optimises efficacy. 011 486 4904
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online at www.probeauty.co.za
Covermark sunscreen offers protection from UVA and UVB, and is photostable, meaning that its protection properties are not compromised or altered by exposure to sunlight. The Covermark Rayblock Face tinted with SPF40 or 60 is now available in two shades – light beige and soft brown. Enriched with Vitamin C and Avocadin, it provides up to 24 hours of high protection and prolonged effectiveness. 012 460 1220
Ericson Laboratoire Derma Sun offers broad anti-UVA/UVB protection due to photostable filters that effectively neutralise the sun’s rays on the surface of the skin, and combines a powerful tanning accelerator with an anti-ageing heat-activated molecule to ensure adaptable protection from the harmful rays of the sun. 011 783 9817
Juliette Armand Sun Film features highly efficient broad-spectrum sun filters that meet the strictest standards. It also provides complete protection from UV-B rays (with SPF 2-55), and contains Antitox – a powerful new-generation antioxidant cocktail with the revolutionary self-regenerating mechanism of its antioxidant ingredients. 011 033 0500
PRODUCT FOCUS - SUN PROTECTION
Dr Gobac Sunscreen SPF25 is a lightweight, non-toxic sun protection cream that contains Zinc Clear, along with a number of potent agents to effectively destroy and eliminate free radicals in the skin. Ingredients such as Vitamin C, brown algae extract, and ozone protection substances, have also b een included to reduce oedema (swelling) induced by sun exposure. This product protects against UVA and UVB at a critical wavelength of 370nm – a requirement set forth by The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA). 011 314 9222
RVB Sun Cellular Defence SPF50 is formulated free from parabens, silicons, fragrance, dyes and petrolates for global protection against the photo-ageing. It provides complete DNA protection from UVA/UVB radiations, has an advanced anti-oxidising photo-protective action, and contains natural soothing agents to counteract skin reddening. 021 701 2900
DermaShield SPF 45 High Protection Zinc Oxide is documented as a broad-spectrum, safe sunscreen, with a texture that is not oily and is nonacnegenic. It contains UVA and UVB filters and makes use of zinc oxide to absorb rays. 086 128 2323
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PRODUCT NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, equipment and innovations. Power punch
Balancing science and nature Acquizhen Sunrise organic soap yields a creamy lather of cocoa butter which carries the aroma of sweet orange and ginger, leaving your skin clean ad your senses uplifted. Made with 99% organic ingredients, Acquizhen combines accurate science with the best of nature to create an innovation in skincare - effective, certified organic and sustainable products. Naturally sourced ingredients are optimally formulated on research at Dermo-ResearchLaboratories-Dr.med. Erich Schulte. 011 022 1658
DMK Fiberblast C provides 20% Vitamin C in its most bioactive form, which is easily absorbed and immediately begins providing its oxidant and collagen building benefits. How is this achieved? Micro droplets of pure ascorbic acid in liquid form are surrounded with a thin shell of silica particles to protect the ascorbic acid from oxidising and denaturing. This product is used just like any other topical Vitamin C serum. Although it pours and acts like a powder, when it is gently rubbed across the skin, body heat and the mild friction breaks the silica links releasing the liquid onto the skin. As the Vitamin C emulsion begins to absorb into the skin, the silica creates a thin occlusive layer that locks the emulsion against the skin and protects it until it can be completely absorbed. 011 262 6120
DMK, rebuilding skin, rebuilding lives
www.dannemking.co.za â?˜ +27 11 123 45
foamy refreshment LCN's Divine Dragon Fruit Prickling Ice Spray's prickly crackly foam cools and refreshes tired, burning feet and legs, providing an immediate freshness kick. It contains provitamine B5 and bisaolol that intensely nourishes the skin. 087 751 0410
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
scrub and lotion refines and hydrates Lycon launches new products in their Spa Essentials range, the oil free sugar scrub will effectively exfoliate dead cells while boosting hydration and refining the skin. Being oil free and water soluble, it can easily wash off the skin with no oily residue. Ideal for body treatments, manicures, pedicures and post waxing care. The new Lycon Hand and Body lotions boost hydration from head to toe. Effective, non-greasy formulas with Pro-Vitamin B5, Jojoba Oil and Vitamin E are known for their anti-ageing properties, soothing benefits and long term protection. 021 919 2480
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PRODUCT NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Innovative hand therapy
problematic skin supplementation Lamelle Research Laboratories' Acnevelle is a synergistic blend of the physiologically active niacin vitamin, and the healing mineral - zinc. Together, they powerfully reduce inflammation and bacterial injury in problematic skin. Picolinic acid ensures maximal zinc absorption to further enhance the corrective benefits of this effective combination. Used a part of an effective treatment programme, Acnevelle capsules improve problematic skin by as much as 85% after 8 weeks of use. 011 465 2264
The Renew Anti-Aging Hand Therapy targets cellular nourishment and includes SPF 20 for sun protection. Aimed to Restore, Nourish and protect your skin on a cellular level. The core and active ingredients promote anti-aging and diminish age spots for soft, youthful hands. At the given concentration of active ingredients, optiphi Renew Anti-Aging Hand Therapy promises an improved skin texture with better moisture retention. This moisture retention leads to improved skin thickness and elasticity, resulting in brightened age-spots and ultimately softer, younger looking hands. The UV protection is also included to protect against further damage from photo-aging and anti-oxidant activity. 012 667 6243
HEIBIX MODUlar StUDieS eacH ManUal a cOMplete traininG Unit CONTENT BASED ON INTERNATIONAL AND NATIONAL SYLLABI
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Š HeiBiX cc p.O. Box 2218, Dennesig, 7601, phone: 021 883 3803, Fax: 021 886 7472, e-mail: heibix@polka.co.za
Beach waves just in time for summer ghd has launched its first professional diffuser to fit the now-legendary ghd air hairdryer – just in time to create perfectly formed, frizz-free curls and waves for summer. The ghd air professional diffuser (RRP: R249.00) has been developed in collaboration with top stylists and features contoured hard fingers to lift and separate the hair and provide a super-even air flow for maximum volume and body. The long awaited diffuser will be available for retail in November 2013 but, just for October, ghd is offering a free diffuser with every ghd air™ hairdryer, including ghd jewel air™ purchased! 011 463 8601
A different brush
Wand-A-Brush say they have re-invented the object most often used by hair stylists and consumers alike – the trusty blow dry brush. Most hair stylists tend to leave the blow dry brush in the hair to cool down after blow drying each section, while reaching for another brush to do the next section of hair, or wind the warm hair around a valcro curler. Hair that cools down on the brush (or curler) will retain it’s style for much longer with great volume because the roots cool down away from the scalp. However the weight of the brush handle would pull the brush out of the hair before the hair has cooled down and so defeating the whole object. Wand-A-Brush was designed and developed to fill this major gap in the grooming market. The brush features a detachable handle and has been designed to allow for quick airflow, thereby drastically reducing heat exposure and shortening the time required to style your hair. 079 120 1436
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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HAIR NEWS
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Detangling hair tool
Tangle Teezer is as well known for its unique detangling hair tool as it is known as the one that got away. The product that the Dragons Den crew ridiculed has become a massive worldwide success. The product was invented by Shaun P who saw a need for a new detangling hair tool that didn’t fight or lock in tangles. The resulting product has won a host of industry and magazine awards. The patented Tangle Teezer Original has become the best-selling hairbrush in the UK and is selling in droves around the world. The unique brush is excellent for de-tangling wet or dry hair and gives a blissful, relaxing head massage even for the most sensitive scalps. 021 448 8847
Restore hair health
Inoar introduces ‘BB Cream for Hair’. These products is especially to restore the hair’s health. BB Cream stands for “Beauty Balm’ and is a product that treats, moisturises, and restores hair naturally. Instead of developing only one product, Inoar developed a whole line so that the client can choose what they prefer. Due to the high percentages of natural emollients such as sunflower, sesame, linseed, olive and macadamia, the products act immediately even after the first use. In addition it is also rich in Omegas plus completely sulphate free! All the products contain the 9 benefits so you can choose for instance whether you are a ‘mask’ or rather ‘conditioner’ person. 012 686 7067
Advanced Innovation for natural pain relief.
NEW
Arnica Power3 relieves: stiffness bruising muscle aches swelling from injury
spray it in your mouth for your nearest stockist and more information on other products visit our website www.sprayology.co.za
sprayologysa
@sprayologysa
jhb te l + 27 (0) 11 2 68 0018 cpt tel + 27 (0) 21 465 5662 kzn te l + 2 7 (0) 31 82 1 0000
Nominated as
Best Equipment Supplier in the Professional Beauty Awards 2013
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
President's Report Spring has definitely sprung with a bang this year. We wish you all a very summery season. This last year has been filled with many new developments which will require us to review all facets of our organisation. To stay relevant we have to be committed to change! These changes will encompass a complete reformulation of our organisation. This will include a total restructuring of our board, Constitution and membership to include the profession as a whole. Even though we have made some change, these structures are still predominantly aimed at serving the demands of education.
Ian Fuhr speaking at the SAAHSP Seminar at Gallagher Convention Centre.
Menna Kleine - SAAHSP President
Committee Chair accepted the branch trophy for the most funds raised.
Professional Beauty Seminars
The SAAHSP AGM SAAHSP AGM was held on the 31st August 2013 where minor changes to constitution were voted in. The main change was the inclusion of Professional Body Co-ordinator and designation membership. The president’s trophy was awarded to Maja Grewe for her excellent role as the PR for SAAHSP and her work on our website and exposure. Tina was awarded an Honorary award for her role in Professional File and Professional Body work. Sandy Roy received a gift to thank her for the work she is doing as PR on the CIDESCO board. Elna Hagen Cape Town
SAAHSP and AAMSSA Partnership On the 30th August AAMSSA (Aesthetic and Anti-ageing Medicine Society of South Africa) represented by Dr. Cobus van Niekerk, met with SAAHSP to discuss a partnership regarding support of the change of legislation regarding Skincare Practitioners and Medical practitioners to work within the same practise/ salon. SAAHSP strongly support: • Cultivating working relationships between Doctors practicing aesthetic procedures
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and Skincare Professionals. • Seeking amendments to current legislation that does not allow a working relationship between doctors and Skincare Professionals without serious restructuring of the business and the building structure with regards to entrance, reception and other aspects that will seriously affect proper and ethical care of the patient. • Creating a sub category within the HPCSA for Skincare Professionals working within a
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
Dr. Cobus van Niekerk
medical environment. We will keep stakeholders up to date with these developments.
SAAHSP Hosted a formal Seminar at Professional Beauty Gauteng on Monday 2nd September, where industry role players were introduced to SAAHSP, Professional Body and the process and benefits this has to all stakeholders. The workshop was very well attended. The SAAHSP seminars were also very well attended and we would like to thank all schools that participated brining these students to these events. Vaughan Owgan and Ian Fuhr once again got every salon owner, potential salon owner fired up with their excellent business advice. Sonette Donker, Jessica Jacobs, Lara Wickstead gave us some further insight in the ingredients in products and looking after your clients. Dr Cobus van Niekerk spoke about including male clients into your salons and what to focus on and what type of treatments men are doing now Medical Aesthetics focused. He also spoke about the role of the skincare practitioner and the Treating Physician, the partnership so necessary for both parties The students also received very good recruitment advice from Batya Cohen. We wish all the schools and students, who are preparing for the forth coming assessments, good luck in all their endeavours. May each and every one achieve the success you have worked so hard to accomplish.
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RADIO-FREQUENCY
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Knowledge Tenza Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: knowledge@probeauty.co.za
Deliver serums where it counts!
aesthetic solutions
For more information contact Valerie van Zyl on 083 628 9946 info@sternlaser.co.za www.sternlaser.co.za
DermaFrac offers simultaneous delivery of infused ingredients in a pain-free, no downtime treatment that can be administered by a beautician without anaesthesia. The DermaFrac system combines microdermabrasion, precise micro-needling with simultaneous vacuum assisted infusion of high grade serums and LED therapy (Red, Yellow & Blue lights) offering unbelievable results. ACNE - ANTI-AGEING HYALURONIC ACID MOISTURISER - SKIN LIGHTENING
For more information contact Valerie van Zyl on 083 628 9946 info@sternlaser.co.za www.sternlaser.co.za
Skin lightening gel by SB A PROVEN SYSTEM FOR THE TREATMENT OF:
Lifts upper eyelids... without surgery
Easy to sell & Highly profitable
* Agents needed - Nationwide • Instant results • Easy & Comfortable • Transparent & Discreet Somalogic Imports, Mobile: 074 602 9555, email: info@eyemagicsa.co.za www.eyemagicsa.co.za
• Uneven skin colour • Sun damage • Pimple marks • Hyper pigmentation • General skin brightening and lightening • Skin damage from abrasive chemicals suitable for underarm, bikini areas, elbow, knees and lips
No hydroquinone, chemicals or mercury
www.lighterskin.co.za
tel: 082 925 3772
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
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DAILY VITAMINS
For good quality, durable spa/salon wear give us a call!
For good quality, durable spa/salon wear give us a call! For good quality, durable spa/salon wear give us a call! For good quality, durable spa/salon wear give us a call!
Distributed by LN Marketing cc Tel: (011) 327 3440 • Fax: (011) 327 3444 • Fax to e-mail: 0865 11 8301 e-mail: lesnat@iafrica.com • Website: www.sanssoucis.co.za 12632BCG_SS_Launch_Daily-Vitamins_Backcard_Englisch_rz.indd 1
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Natures Essence Head office
011 609 6047/53
082 451 4511
Durban
031 902 8446
078 458 6598
021 706 0541 021 820 2161
078 458 6603 072 266 7161
Cape Town
Stockist required in all areas
Tel: 031- 312 3502 / 312 1266 info@upfrontdistribution.com www.upfrontdistribution.com
Specializing in DIY treatments for acne, Pigmentation,skin lightening Introducing Coloressence makeup range color your spirit
BEAUTY ONLINE: 70
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
The future of tanning!
No more pills, lotions or spraytan... Get a perfect tan within 3 weeks. No mess no fuss 082 869 0054 | craig@nu-tan.co.za www.nu-tan.co.za
VISIT: www.probeauty.co.za
Great Great Careers Careers now reCruitinG for, now reCruitinG for,
Hairdressers Hairdressers
carboxytherapy Dramatically Improves: Panda Eyes Scars Stretchmarks Cellulite Rejuvenates
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to attend an interview please apply online on www.theonboardspa.com to attend an interview please apply online on www.theonboardspa.com
For more information contact Valerie van Zyl on 083 628 9946 info@sternlaser.co.za www.sternlaser.co.za
SPACE FOR SALE on
A simple, effective daily skin care range A 'deeper than skin-deep' cosmeceutical product range in combination with state of the art micro needling technology, and safe superficial chemical peels
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Normalise the skin functions by balancing the layers in the skin
To find out more call Knowledge: 011 781-5970
Stimulates the skin to produce naturally its own collagen
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Beauty & Make-up Design School
FACE to FACE 4C Winchester Road, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2193 PO Box 2180, Houghton 2041 Tel: 011 726 2644 / 8144 / 8166 Fax: 011 726 4944 Email: info@facetoface.co.za Web: www.facetoface.co.za All courses are Nationally & Internationally accredited by SERVICES SETA (3725), ITEC, CIDESCO and City & Guilds International.
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J A N U A RY / F E B RU A RY
Durban dazzles
Talons Latest nail science
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Planning ahead SA Spa Trends 2013
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Post pregnancy treatments
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2013
Free accommodation and airport transfers.
CONTACT: admin@imageconsultant.co.za Office Land Line: 032 586 0286 SMS: 072 043 6528 www.imageconsultant.co.za
Normal price R429.00 Offer valid until 15 January 2014.
June 2013
Anti-ageing facials
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R330.00
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Regulars: Industry news, Spa news, Business tips, Medical Aesthetics, Beauty product focus, Latest products, Treatment reviews, Nail updates, Spa and Salon reviews. Features: Lasers & IPLs, Body Shaping, Male grooming, Permanent Make up, Anti-Ageing, Software, Hair removal, Pigmentation, Show previews, Sun protection, Slimming wraps, Microneedling, Fragrances and candles, Ingredients... and more.
For enquiries: Tel: 011 781 5970
Clarins Skin Spa
Science, Experience, Senses.
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Three fundamentals that make the Clarins Method unique. With over 50 years of unrivalled experience, Clarins combines the power of plants and science in high-performance formulas. In Skin Spas throughout the world, you can enjoy a customised treatment with exclusive application techniques, for a moment of pure well-being for body and mind. Book your treatment on +27 11 809 6378