Professional Beauty South Africa

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Jul/Aug 2018

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In this issue... Regulars

Spa Focus

44 Hair-less times

5 Industry news

24 Where health reigns supreme

48 A really ‘showy’ event

Local and international news

Business 13 Ask the experts

All your questions answered

15 Insider

Tracking the industry with stats

16 Talking to…Ian Fuhr

Q&A with the founder of Sorbet

20 Taxation 101

The taxation of individuals

22 The voice of the customer

Low-down on customer experience

Santé Wellness Retreat and Spa

28 Meet the speakers

World Spa & Wellness Convention

Special Features 35 A delicate & reactive palette

Depilève Cerazyme Soft Bright review

43 Smooth operator

Product-based hair removal

Professional Beauty Johannesburg Preview

Medical Aesthetics 55 The Ablase plasma method

Treatment review

56 A bundle of energy

Treating sensitive skin

41 A brightening treatment

Latest developments in lasers, IPL and RF

63 Combining injectable treatments to combat ageing

Focus on aesthetic injectables

Cirépil by Perron Rigot treatment review

15 online @ probeauty.co.za


Welcome

2

I

t’s that time of year again when the Professional Beauty office is abuzz with excitement and frenetic activity as we prepare for our flagship event, Professional Beauty Johannesburg – the biggest event of its kind for the beauty industry in Africa – which takes place on 2 and 3 September at Gallagher Convention Centre.

Professional Beauty Johannesburg attracts over 17,000 visitors annually, all keen to be exposed to the latest trends, products and innovations in the skincare, body care, nails and medical aesthetics sectors. To see a sneak peek at just some of the dozens of brands that will be exhibiting their wares at the show, please see pages 48 to 52. With its usual strong focus on education, Professional Beauty Johannesburg also encompasses two seminar programmes – on business skills and nails – as well the World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC) and the Medical Aesthetics & Advanced Treatments Convention. For more information about these events go to www.probeauty.co.za. This year our operations team has implemented a strategy to verify that those who pre-register for Professional Beauty Johannesburg are indeed professionals and not consumers merely out to get show specials – it’s a trade show and we wish to keep it that way. In this issue of Professional Beauty magazine we include a very useful article for salon and spa owners relating to the taxation of individuals who work for them. This timeous article coincides with tax season. Also part of this issue is a special feature on the latest developments in terms of laser, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and RF (radiofrequency) devices. This segment of the industry, which targets anti-ageing, skin tightening, body contouring and cellulite treatments (among others), continues to grow exponentially, with more and more salons and some spas investing in this technology. Enjoy the read and see you at Professional Beauty Johannesburg! Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA

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5 News

News Pic courtesy Indigo Fields

Big SA participation in GWD

Some 99 active events took place in South Africa on 9 June as part of Global Wellness Day (GWD), a worldwide non-profit initiative that is celebrated on the second Saturday of June to promote the idea of living a healthier and better life. The events in South Africa were coordinated by the South African Spa Association, which has supported GWD since 2015 and is registered with GWD as an association sponsor. Says the South African Spa Association’s Celeste Peters, the official GWD Ambassador

for this country: “Everything that is done on GWD is provided as a complimentary activity – no costs to participants are allowed, no discounts for products are allowed, and sponsors who do not promote a healthy lifestyle are not encouraged to be involved. The aim of this day is to promote the simple necessity of wellness for all and it is a day for us to reflect on how we can change our lives, live healthier and help others. Many good things were done for others on this day. “The GWD 2018 project even got well wishes from his excellency, President Cyril Ramaphosa, an avid walker who promotes walking with his people. Unfortunately, he could not join in on the walking activity due to his hectic schedule, but he sent his best wishes. This was motivation for everyone involved.” Peters notes that many of the participants focused on employee wellness initiatives and exercise programmes with their staff and

clients, while others donated time and products to those who were less fortunate than themselves. Among the sponsors for GWD 2018 in South Africa were: Camelot Spa Group (27 spas in Southern Africa); Black Pearl; Four Seasons – The Westcliff; Santé Wellness; Oyster Box Hotel (Red Carnation Group); Matsimela Spa Brand; Drostdy Hotel and Spa; Cape Grace Hotel; Fancourt Hotel; Vineyard Hotel and Spa Cape Town; Bavarian Motorcycles BMW Centurion; Delux Laser Group (11 salons); Protea Hotel by the Marriott Kruger Gate; and Protea Hotel by Marriott Cape Town Waterfront Breakwater Lodge. Participating South African institutions included: Camelot International School for Health and Beauy; Isa Castens Academy; Pearson Institute for Higher Education; SAAHSP; Crawford School Sandton; Sanguine Spa and College; and DUT Somotology.

Four Seasons regional spa director to speak at World Spa & Wellness Convention Sandie Johannessen, Four Seasons Senior Spa Director for Middle East & Africa, has confirmed her participation at the World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC), which runs on 2 & 3 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg. Johannessen, who is based in Seychelles, will speak on two panels: Implementing International Best Practice at Local & Regional Level (Sunday, 2 September at 9.45am), and Targeting Coprorates and their Wellness Programmes (Monday, 3 September at 11h30). Says Johannessen: “I am delighted to participate at the WSWC. In my first presentation, I will talk about the role of ‘Senior’ and how we are relaying Four Seasons standards, which are

aligned to European protocols, to our base in the Middle East and Africa. This includes making a very real connection with each local place. “For my second talk on wellness programmes, I will deliberate on the necessity for digital detoxing. The presentation will be on bringing color and mindfulness into one’s lives, making us more vibrant and present in our day to day lives.” Johannessen’s tenure at Four Seasons began in 2014, having previously worked at spas in New Delhi, Malaysia and Maldives. Born in Copenhagen, Johannessen qualified in Stockholm and has been an avid proponent of natural wellness for 25 years. For more information about WSWC see pages 27 to 32.

online @ probeauty.co.za


News

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inbrief // Marine Spa Distributors (MSD) is the new South African distributor for LPG Endermologie, a French company that manufactures non-invasive devices for the face and body that gently stimulate the skin to reactivate dormant celluar activity. The technology is 100% natural and painless and has no downtime.

// At its recent 46th annual AGM, SAAHSP, the Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in South Africa, reported a significant increase in membership: Associates up by 15.59%; Affiliates up by 100%; Corporates up by 61.54%; and Salons & Spas up 50%. Pictured is SAAHSP President, Elna Hagen.

// Belladerma has taken on the South African distributorship of Asclepion, a German laser company founded in 2005 with machines in 70 countries. Four Asclepion models are available in South Africa: MedioStar Next Pro (Medial Diode Laser using Class 4 diodes); QuadroStar; PicoStar (Class 4 Q-Switched Ruby and Nd:Yag laser) and the Studio Nano Laser.

// Aesthetic Lab has opened its Pretoria branch headed by Dr Chris Giezing and Heleen Marx. Aesthetic Lab Pretoria is situated at Club Surgical Centre in Hazelwood and enhances the franchise’s national footprint beyond its existing branches in Bloemfontein and George.

// Members of the European Parliament have voted in favour of adopting a resolution supporting a global ban on cosmetic testing on animals. This move is backed by The Body Shop and Cruelty Free International.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Beauty industry world first – HOCl molecule launches In what is believed to be a world first, South African brand Thoclor Labs has launched a range of beauty products formulated with pure HOCl, the body’s own immune molecule. The initial range includes two formulations – GF1, a post-manipulation aftercare treatment for the skin – and GF2, a solution to eradicate the effects of ageing and environmental damage to the skin. According to Thoclor Labs marketing director, Stuart Russell, a recent study by Stanford University in the US concluded that the only substance that effectively reversed the effects of environmental damage was the regular topical application of HOCl. Russell continues: “HOCl, or Hypochlorous acid, is the formula of the human body’s immune molecule. It is normally made inside the white blood cells and used by the body to fight infection, heal wounds and regulate inflammation. The ability to get hold of HOCl outside the human body has been regarded as the Holy Grail of medicine. It offers massive potential for the treatment of burns and chronic wounds, eye and other infections.

“The Stanford University study found that surface application of an HOCl solution significantly reversed the signs of ageing in the skin and even led to the disappearance of DNA-repair protein in the skin.” Russell notes that Dr Ridwan Mia, one of South Africa’s leading plastic surgeons, uses the Thoclor Lab products in both his aesthetic and surgical practices. “Dr Mia has been impressed with the results he is seeing and is a strong proponent of powerful effects of pure HOCl against infection and healing, as well as the radical reduction of inflammation,” he says.

New moves at Babor Nadine Sapsford has been appointed operations coordinator at Babor South Africa. Says company owner, Lynn-Ann Fuchsloch: “After completing her six-month internship, Nadine has moved into a permanent position within Babor South Africa, fulfilling the new restructured role of operations coordinator. “This new position has been created within the business to optimise the synergy between all departments within Babor, as well as to ensure seamless cohesion of all daily operational activities. Nadine’s keen eye for detail and youthfully fresh approach has proved to be highly beneficial for the business.” Fuchsloch is eagerly awaiting the imminent relaunch of Babor’s

Skinovage line, which will feature not only new packaging but new formulations as well, incorporating intense research being done on epigenetics.




DMK launches anti-skin lightening campaign DMK, the para-medical skincare brand founded by Danné Montague-King, has launched the ‘Don’t mess with my skin’ campaign to raise awareness in South Africa about the potentially harsh side effects of skin bleaching. The ‘Don’t’ mess with my skin’ campaign was introduced by DMK SA co-owner, Najma Khan, on 25 June at an event held in Sandton, with the California-based Montague-King in attendance. Said Khan: “This campaign has been launched in response to the question – ‘Does light skin equal beauty?’ We’re on a mission to teach youngsters the dangers of skin lightening and that their skin is fabulous as it is. “It’s estimated that 35% of South Africans want lighter skin. A study in Durban found that one in three Indian ladies uses skin

lightening products. The sale of skin lightening products remains unregulated in South Africa despite the fact that ingredients such as hydroquinone, mercury, steroids, tretinoin and arsenic can be found in some of these products. Skin cancer is on the increase in South Africa and skin lightening products can result in hyperpigmentation and skin irritation.” Montague-King spoke about the research he conducted in South Africa in the 1990s, which found that items such as household bleach and toothpaste were being used in the hazardous quest for lighter skin. “It was actually the Chinese emperors who first introduced the trend for skin lightening centuries ago. I believe that whatever your skin tone is, that’s who you are and

that’s what makes you unique and beautiful. At DMK we advocate skin revision, that is taking your skin back to the way it was when you were young,” he commented.

New make-up range exclusive to SA

A desire to create a unique foundation range specifically to accommodate the diverse skin tones and needs of the South African market has led to the creation of the Ever Beauty® SA exclusive range. Launched on 8 August, the range also includes a selection of lipsticks, lip-glosses, eyeshadows, blushers and highlighters, among other products. Says Ever Beauty® SA brand and product director, Terisa Hsu-Lee: “Ever Beauty® was first registered by my parents under the family business, Everlasting Products in 2003. At the time, the Ever Beauty® brand didn’t manage to successfully

penetrate the South African market due to lack of industry, customer and marketing knowledge. “Last year during a business trip to China, I managed to connect with a trading company that was supplying Ever Beauty® products to the UAE and Dubai market. We were able to work with this company to bring in selected products that we believed were suitable for the South African market. However, I realised that their foundation range was not suitable for our market due to the difference in skin tones. “Having a diploma in fashion and photographic make-up, as well

as previous work experience as a freelance make-up artist, I strongly believe that the key to any great make-up application starts with having the correct foundation. It was a very important decision to create an exclusive range of foundations to international global standards, yet dedicated to our unique rainbow nation and taking into account the cost of manufacturing. “With the professional assistance of our overseas team of cosmetic lab experts, I was able to realise my dream of creating eight magical foundation colours suited to South African skin tones.” Hsu-Lee points out that the Ever Beauty® SA exclusive range is manufactured through a reputable factory in China and approved and certified to meet the strict export standards for both the American and European market. “We have been able to keep costs affordable for the South African market while delivering the international professional quality standards. Our tag line is: ‘You deserve to be beautiful’ as we believe that becoming beautiful is a journey that everyone is born with and is entitled to,” concludes Hsu-Lee.

online @ probeauty.co.za

News

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News

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Luma comes to SA Twincare International has become the official South African distributor for the new-to-market brand, Luma Beauty, created by top Australian model, Jessica Hart. Says Twincare’s retail manager, Lindzey Turton: “Jessica Hart is one of the most sought after models in the industry and a proponent of natural beauty. Her vision for Luma has always been based on the concept of celebrating your uniqueness by embracing your flaws and enhancing your natural beauty. “So, just like Jessica’s famous gap-toothed smile, Luma recognises that beauty is unique. The mantra of the range is ‘less is more’ and it has been specially designed to bring out the best in skin, creating a luminous and healthy glow using naturally sourced ingredients. These include crushed pearl powder, ethically

sourced micra, moisture-rich hyaluronic acid and jojoba oil. Luma is never tested on animals.” Turton notes that the premium but playful packaging uses icons to easily identify the various product features and benefits, including

New clinical trainer for Radiant

Tashlyn Louis has been appointed clinical trainer for Radiant Healthcare, the distributor of medical aesthetics devices. Louis is a fully qualified somatologist, (NDip Somatology, UJ), with more than seven years of

experience in the field of medical aesthetics. She says: “My passion for educating clients about their skin and developing a good skin regime has now evolved into a desire to train and grow within the beauty

illuminating, hydrating and enhancing. Products include a cleansing gel, facial polish, serum, primers, tinted beauty balm, base and highlighter, among others.

industry. Having worked in clinics I realised the damage that can be brought about by an untrained operator. Burning and damaging a client’s skin also leads to the reputational risk of your business. “I have now grown my passion into ensuring equipment is safely utilised for the benefit of the clients. My aim is to work behind the scenes in various clinics – be it medical aesthetic clinics or salons, to ensure that the operators of these machines offer an outstanding experience to their clients, giving them a positive view of these machines, and creating lasting results for their client.” Louis is trained in the following systems: Syneron; Cocoon; GSD; Plasmatek; Ecleris; Somatech; Gigaa; Carbtek Carboxy and the LifeViz 3D Facial and Body Analysis device.

Top 10 Anesi stockists go to Barcelona Distributor Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS) and its top 10 Anesi stockists joined DRV in Barcelona, Spain, recently for an intensive Anesi training workshop.

online @ probeauty.co.za

The event coincided with the launch of the new Urban Blue Defense range, which will be available in South Africa later this year. Says EBS Skin Division brand

manager, Yolandi Mestre: “We were also given information on all the new Anesi launches for 2018 and early 2019. EBS did a similar trip to DRV in Barcelona four years ago.”




Business Tips

13

ask

the experts

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What is the value of conducting a mystery guest evaluation and what does it involve? Mystery Guest Evaluation is a tool used to measure customer satisfaction and experience so that you can see your spa / salon through your client’s eyes. By using this tool, a spa / salon owner can gain insights into their business that they wouldn’t otherwise get (as they are too involved in the day-to-day operations to have a completely objective view). Businesses that understand what drives customer satisfaction function more competitively and are able to retain more clients.

Benefits Owners should view the evaluation as a way of continuously measuring progress. Management can verify whether employees are following standard operating procedures, while owners can trial systems and tweak things along the way to ensure the highest quality of service. From a professional development perspective, skill gaps can be identified and addressed.

Of course, gaining insights into employee behaviour that may eventually lead to low client satisfaction is also important. Employees who are aware that owners incorporate mystery guests into their quality management system are more likely to provide excellent customer service to every customer.

How it works The process involves an evaluator acting as a client. The only difference is that she/he is critically assessing the client’s journey against a predefined standard – from first point of contact to what happens after the client has visited the spa / salon. Owners should schedule multiple evaluations throughout the year to gain a true perspective of how clients perceive their business since no day is the same – even the best employees can have a moment where they provide poor customer service. Evaluators should be experts in the trade and need to understand the customer service process.

They must have a thorough understanding of the general processes of a spa / salon and must be able to recognise areas that could be a detrimental failure point for the business. Every evaluator should be of this calibre and not just ‘anyone off the street’, which is often what happens in our industry. Once the evaluation is complete, the evaluator provides objective, unbiased feedback on their findings to the business owner or manager. When designed well, an evaluation has the potential to become a great tool for business owners to gain an objective view on how to improve their business. This is the true value of a Mystery Guest Evaluation. PB

Chleo Rae Adams is MD of Node Consulting and works with salon / spa businesses, implementing her skills as a Training Practitioner and Career Development liaison. chleo@nodeconsulting.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za


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Ë? Ć€ We launch 4 exciting LIMITED EDITION flavours every year!

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15 Business Trends

Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in May 2018.

Insider Spa

Insider Salon

The majority of spas polled encouragingly reported that treatment business in May 2018 had increased as compared to the same time last year. Reasons cited were increased spend per guest and successful ‘winter special packages’, with one hotel spa reporting a strong drive to upsell and do add-ons from their reception and management team. The latter factor is a strategy that all hotel/ resort spas should be implementing – promoting spa services to guests the moment they enter the hotel. Retail business was also up for most spas polled as guests’ average spend increased with guests actually returning to purchase their products. Other contributing factors in some cases was a strong drive from management to maximise each guest opportunity and assist in closing sales at the front desk. We asked you what is the most important element of the spa experience – therapist’s skill, treatment results, salon décor or welcome, and overwhelmingly the response was all of the above as these elements are interlinked and each contributes to the entire guest experience. As to how often you change your retail display, this ranges between spas from monthly to quarterly, to every time a supplier launches news products.

As has been the trend for most of this year and in fact last year, the weak economy and uncertain political situation has had a strong negative effect on salons, who, unlike hotel and resort spas don’t have the advantage of direct access to a relatively captive audience (i.e. hotel guests). This was compounded by the fact that traditionally, salon business during the winter months experiences a substantial drop. Consequently, the majority of salons reported reduced turnover in terms of both treatments and retail. Most of you feel that therapist’s skill, treatment results, salon décor and welcome all paly an important part in contributing to the guest experience. We asked you how often you change your retail display and most of you said monthly or bi-monthly. PB

The month in numbers

SALON 54

SPA 69 Average treatment room occupancy

Average treatment room occupancy

%

%

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2018 COMPARE WITH MAY 2017?

79% 10% 11% Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2018 COMPARE WITH MAY 2017?

66% 20 14% % WORSE

Better

SAME

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MAY 2018 COMPARE WITH MAY 2017?

11% 16% 73% Better

SAME

WORSE

HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MAY 2018 COMPARE WITH MAY 2017?

6%

Better

9%

85% WORSE

SAME

online @ probeauty.co.za


Interview

16

Talking to...

Having recently seen the opening of the 202nd Sorbet Store in South Africa and excited about the launch of his second book, Sorbet founder, Ian Fuhr, has lots to talk about with Joanna Sterkowicz. Since the acquisition of the Sorbet Group by Long4Life last year, how involved are you in running the group? I’m just as involved as I always was and am still the CEO. One thing that has changed since the acquisition is the amendment of our corporate structure. Whereas before we only had divisions in the Sorbet Group, now we have independently run business units, each with its own chief executive. For example, my son, Brent Fuhr, is chief executive of the Sorbet Salon Business Unit. A particular focus of mine at the moment is to help grow our UK business – we have five Sorbet Stores in London and are working on getting the business model right before we expand in the UK and venture into any other overseas territory as well. online @ probeauty.co.za

It has been interesting to see that there are not many big branded salon chains in the US and Europe. In the UK there is no salon chain with more than 20 salons.

How has the beauty industry in South Africa changed since you launched the first Sorbet salon in August 2005? There have been significant changes. At that time there were no large, branded salon chains and now we have Imbalie Beauty as well as Sorbet. A huge difference that I’ve seen in the industry since then and one that I feel that Sorbet has contributed to, is the racial shift of therapists in the industry. There used to be predominantly white therapists in salons

It’s not just about ensuring that staff have the necessary technical abilities, it’s also that the services are delivered with the right attitude.

and now the vast majority of therapists in Sorbet are black. Another change since the early days of Sorbet has been the emergence and popularity of medical aesthetics. This is something that we are seriously looking at as part of our strategy going forward – the concept of offering specialised skincare and aesthetic treatments at Sorbet.


What would you say are the biggest challenges facing the beauty salon industry today? The biggest issue is (and has always been) finding good quality staff that will deliver exceptional services to Sorbet guests. It’s not just about ensuring that staff have the necessary technical abilities, it’s also that the services are delivered with the right attitude. Sorbet works so hard in its five in-house training academies in this regard.

Typically an ongoing problem for salon owners is the rapid turnover of staff. How does Sorbet deal with this dynamic? By trying to create a culture in the Sorbet stores where people want to remain, feel comfortable and empowered. In the beginning our staff turnover rate was 40% and now we’ve managed to reduce that to between 5% and 10%. >

Interview

17


Interview

18

so we can certainly look at spas. However, it is too early for me to say anything.

Can we expect any new Sorbet stores this year? Between 10 and 15 stores will open in 2018, at least half of which will be Sorbet Man stores. We’re really seeing a huge demand generated by Sorbet Man and currently have 16 stores.

With so many Sorbet stores around country-wide, do you think some consumers might experience brand fatigue and opt for independent, exclusive salons instead? Well, there is that possibility and of course we want to avoid it. However, the opening of so many Sorbet stores is based on demand – people are always wanting to open Sorbet salons. By February 2019 we expect the total annual turnover of Sorbet franchisees to generate R850m. Last year it was R725m. By the beginning of 2020, we expect to be doing R1bn in turnover. To keep the Sorbet brand fresh, we do a redesign every five years, with a new look and feel. Our latest design makes the stores look more welcoming and homely and less clinical.

If you had to summarise the reasons for Sorbet’s success what would you say? It’s the culture and attitude of our people (that translates into customer service) that makes us unique in the industry, as we don’t do any treatments that are different to those offered in other salons. It’s always been my passion to develop the correct culture in the business.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Sorbet’s branded product lines are growing by leaps and bounds, specifically with the recent launches of the Sorbet Make-Up Collection and the Drybar hair products. Can we expect any more in the future? Clicks has been very active in the development of all of the Sorbet-branded products and has succeeded in building them into huge brands. In the next two or three years, I believe Sorbet will be one of the largest beauty brands at Clicks. The Sorbet Make-up launch was huge in terms of Clicks investment and the range, which caters for all the diverse skin tones in the country, is doing really well. Clicks says it was their most successful make-up launch ever.

The Sorbet skincare line was fully developed by Clicks and can thus be referred to as a Clicks brand. Does that not perhaps lower the professional profile of the brand – as in the perception that professional products are superior to Clicks brands? Interestingly enough, we are actually looking at doing a premium, in-salon skincare line that will only be sold in salons.

At the time of the Long4Life acquisition, you hinted at the possibility of Sorbet perhaps moving into the spa sector. Please comment. As far as Long4Life is concerned it’s an open book in terms of all aspects of health and wellness,

You have achieved so much in your extraordinary career in the beauty industry but what are you most proud of? The Sorbet philosophy is to touch people’s lives and that has been our higher purpose. We know that if we manage to do this well, the money will come in. We now have over 2,500 ‘Sorbet Citizens’ (i.e. franchise partners and staff) and some 400,000 guests on our loyalty programme. It is with these people that the Sorbet community continues to flourish.

You have just launched your second book, ‘The Soul of Sorbet’, which follows on from the success of your first book, ‘Get That Feeling – The Sorbet Story’, published four years ago. Please tell me about the new book. The first book was more a personal memoir (about me growing up in the apartheid era), although the second half did touch on Sorbet business strategies. Much of ‘The Soul of Sorbet’ was written over the December 2017 holiday, in a farmhouse in the Franschhoek winelands. I had help from Johanna Stamps Egbe, who did all the research based on my various speaking engagements /workshops on how the Sorbet culture was built. I then took this initial document and did much of the writing, adding my own voice. We had the idea to do the book two years ago, but then from my side I had to put the project on hold for a year because of the Long4Life acquisition and all the negotiations that were involved. To be honest I really enjoy writing and there might even be a third book in the future…PB



20 Business Tips

Taxation

101

Just in time for tax season, chartered accountant Colin Reeves provides valuable advice relating to the taxation of individuals in this, the first of a series of articles on finance.

B

enjamin Franklin is credited as saying that the only things certain in life are death and taxes. They (taxes) come in an array of forms: petrol tax, excise duties, import duties, estate duty, transfer duty, dividend tax, VAT and income tax. The subject is complex and difficult so in this article I will present an overview of the issues you need to manage as a business owner and provide some ideas on what you need to minimise the time and effort required to stay compliant. It will relate to tax on individuals rather than on company tax, which will be discussed in a later article.

Taxation of employees and individuals Employees include normal monthly paid or weekly paid personnel, executive directors of companies, and partners in a business drawing a salary. A business, whether a sole proprietorship, partnership, close corporation or limited company, is required to register all employees for income tax (PAYE) and the Unemployment Insurance Fund (UIF). The business must itself register as an employer with the South African Revenue Services (SARS) and each employee requires a tax number, failing which they must register themselves by visiting a SARS branch with a copy of their ID, proof of address and banking information. SARS recognises Tax Practitioners who can represent both the business and the employee in their dealings with SARS.

online @ probeauty.co.za


As a registered taxpayer, the individual can sign-up to use the SARS eFiling service, which allows him/her to file returns for themselves or their business, make payments to SARS and generally simplify all transactions with SARS. The returns required to be filed monthly with SARS are EMP101 declaring the amount of PAYE deducted from its employees, the UIF deducted and contributed and the SDL (skills development levy where applicable). Every six months an EMP501 is required to be submitted. This is a reconciliation of the tax certificates issued for the half year and for the full year to the returns submitted and the amounts paid. Although the payroll can be prepared manually, it is recommended that a computerised payroll system be used which will calculate the correct tax, produce the payslips and the half yearly EMP501. There are many systems available, most at very reasonable cost.

Completing an income tax return (IT12) From July 2018, all registered taxpayers have to complete an IT12 if they have more than one source of income, or if they wish to make deductions against their gross income. An individual’s final tax bill in based on their net income, which is calculated on all sources of income less deductions and exemptions. Income can be in the form of salary, fringe benefits, profits as sole proprietor, investment income and net rental income. Deductions can only be claimed if they are specifically legislated, or incurred in the course of generating income. Medical deductions and retirement deductions are legislated for, while expense claims need to be justified. Please note that if you wish to maximise your deductions in accordance with the travel allowance tables, then keep a log book of your travels. All the income sources are added together so that if the

RATES OF TAX FOR INDIVIDUALS 2018 tax year (1 March 2017 – 28 February 2018) 0 – 189 880

18% of taxable income

189 881 – 296 540

34 178 +26% of taxable income above 189 880

296 541 – 410 460

61 910 +31% of taxable income above 296 540

410 461 – 555 600

97 225 +36% of taxable income above 410 460

555 601 – 708 310

149 475 +39% of taxable income above 555 600

708 311 – 1 500 000

209 032 +41% of taxable income above 708 310

1 500 001 and above

533 625 +45% of taxable income above 1 500 000

Tax Rebates Primary

R13 635

Secondary (65 and older)

R7 479

Tertiary (75 and older)

R2 493

Tax Thresholds Under 65

R75 750

65 and older

R117 300

75 and older

R131 150

taxpayer earned a salary but at the same time made a loss on an entrepreneurial venture in his or her name, the loss can be set off against the salary earned. Table 1 above shows the rates of tax applicable for individuals for the tax year ending 28 February 2018 and the rebates that will be deducted from the resultant calculation. Thus an individual under 65 will pay tax when his taxable income exceeds R75 750 and a person over 65 but under 75

will pay at a level of R117 300. To give a simple example: Mary earned a salary of R 320,000 from her previous place of employment from which PAYE of R40,000 was deducted. During the same fiscal year, Mary opened her own beautician shop under her own name (not a company), which recorded a loss for the period to end February of R60,000. She has no allowable deductions. Her income tax bill will be as in table 2 below. PB

Salary

320 000.00

Loss as sole proprietor

- 60 000.00

Net income

260 000.00 Tax payable

Tax on R189,880

18%

Tax on R260,000 less R189,880

26%

34 178.40 18,231.20 52 409.60

Less primary rebate abatement (under 65) Tax payable Less PAYE previously paid Refund due

- 13 635.00 38 774.60 - 40 000.00 - 1 225.40

Colin Reeves is a Chartered Accountant and CEO of The Cloud Accountants, a professional firm offering bookkeeping, tax and accounting services, educational courses and financial assistance to small and medium sized businesses. Reeves has personal knowledge of the salon business, having previously owned two clinics and having clients in the spa business. colin@thecloudaccountants.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Tips

21


Business Tips

22

The

voice of the

customer Simply put, customer experience is the interaction between the customer and your brand.

In the spa business, offering excellent customer experience is the most important thing you can do, writes Debbie Merdjan.

T

he very first phone call or booking, the welcome to the spa, the treatment, experience and interaction with staff members, the payment, farewell and the follow up all count as customer experience. Simply put, customer experience is the interaction between the customer and your brand. The customers who have a good experience will come back time and time again. But what about the people who come twice and then disappear? Or, even worse, come just once? Then there are the customers who have not had a good experience and voice it elsewhere, i.e. social media. Many dissatisfied customers will trash a brand on Facebook without thinking of discussing the problem first with the brand. And because customers can do this quickly and publicly, you, the brand, need to adapt. You need to ensure they come to you, first. To adapt, you need to give customers the ability to communicate with you and to tell you about their experience, whether good or bad. You need to make it worthwhile so customers prefer to talk to you first.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Direct engagement You can offer an enriching customer experience that includes the opportunity for your customer to engage with you directly, regarding both a good or bad customer experience. Here are a few things you can do: • Have a review platform • Create social media pages • Offer in-the-moment feedback • Face-to-face interactions

Technology Most of the above include technology. You are going to use technology in a way that makes the customer feel important, listened to and rewarded. But you don’t want to give your customer reams of forms to fill out as nobody has time for that anymore, however you are going to give your customer the opportunity to rate you. If the rating is not good, let them tell you why and then promise immediate action. There are several new and innovative online rating services that you can find. Find the one that is right for your

brand and your customer. Offer them a review platform. After a treatment, hear your customer. Listen to what they have to say. Let them talk to you BEFORE they take to social media, unless they are raving about you in which case you do want them talking on social media. Always remember, listen to the voice of the customer. You need to really hear what they are saying. Reward customers for their feedback too. It could be a 10% discount off their next treatment; it is totally up to you. Use innovative technology and clever, quick and easy to use Apps. Ask the customer to go onto your Facebook page, or to tag you on Instagram. If you do get a bad review, always respond. Do not delete their post, rather apologise and promise to take action. Take action and if you get a good review, thank them. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. dm@camelothealth.co.za


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Spa Focus

24

Where health reigns supreme

relaxing treatment aimed at fighting free radical damage, improving the hydration and nourishing of the body,” explains Lancaster.

Harmonious balance

When the Santé Wellness Retreat and Spa in the Cape Winelands changed ownership in April 2017, a major renovation, refurbishment and redecoration of the property followed. Joanna Sterkowicz finds out more.

N

ew Santé Wellness Retreat and Spa owners, Graham & Ingrid Hindle and Keith Macmillan, launched their refurbished property in March this year. Situated within La Bella Vita Wine Estate in picturesque Paarl, Santé (which means ‘health’ in French), incorporates a Health Optimization Clinic and a Bio Energy Centre, as well as a spa. “Santé has recently been invited to become a premium member of the Healing Hotels of the World brand, which has 94 member

hotels listed but only four or five have satisfied the criteria to become premium members. So we are very proud of this achievement. With the cutting edge technologies and methodologies used for healing at Santé, we really do fall into a category of our own, even within the categories of Healing Hotels of the World,” says Santé’s spa executive, Mimmie Lancaster. The spa has an unusually large number of hydro facilities – hammam, rasul, hydrotherapy bath, Vichy shower, Kniepp therapy, steam rooms, saunas, Vinotherapy baths, indoor heated pool and Jacuzzi. “Each facility has a specific function and has been carefully included in particular programmes to greatly enhance the outcome for our guests,” comments Lancaster.

Vinotherapy Santé owns the trademark for Vinotherapy in South Africa and offers it as a signature treatment. “Guests soaks in our Vinotherapy baths, which are in dedicated Vinotherapy treatment rooms. Baths are prepared with a grape powder, freeze dried grape seed extract (provided by TheraVine) and red wine. This is a beautiful,

online @ probeauty.co.za

Santé focuses on ‘the cohesion of wellness and beauty’. Lancaster elaborates: “At Santé we believe that health and beauty need to be in harmony in order to achieve visible results. Massimo Gualerzi, cardiologist and founder of Be Active in Motion once noted that he was always more interested in health rather than beauty, but through years of experience and hundreds of patients, he realised that all too often it is difficult to differentiate them. He said: ‘If we assume that health and beauty are the visible results of an even broader concept – harmony – and are barraged daily by harmful factors such as stress, junk food, obesity and a sedentary lifestyle, then our exteriors are a consequence of what is going on inside our bodies’.” Thus Santé’s treatments and retreat packages are tailored to achieve optimum health and wellbeing, utilising the comprehensive facilities in the spa, the Health Optimizing Clinic and the Bio-Energy Centre. Says Lancaster: “We have a passion for holistic wellness, so healthy eating, physical activity, knowledge, adequate rest and relaxation are the cornerstones of our philosophy and, when combined with our personalised spa and wellness programmes, deliver extraordinary results.” She notes that since launch, Santé has generated a great response. “People are totally fascinated with the diverse offering and in particular, the cutting edge methodologies utilised in the Santé Health Optimizing Royal Retreat, as well as our totally natural products and the philosophy we have around our delicious food – no sugar, dairy or gluten.” PB


Come visit & experience MATIS at Pro Beauty Hall 2, stand D8

For more information contact Twincare at 011 305 1600 @matis_southafrica

@MatisSouthAfrica


26

The all-new 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention in Johannesburg is taking place on the 2nd & 3rd of September alongside the Professional Beauty Expo at the Gallagher Convention Centre, so please do diarise this event.

5

Key Reasons Why It’s An Event Not To Be Missed

THE CONVENTION AND NETWORKING EVENT FOR SENIOR MANAGEMENT OF SPAS AND HOTELS...

1. Excellent education The World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC) covers the most pressing and relevant topics facing spa and wellness operators today; delivering new insight and ideas on the latest trends and challenges. 2. Learn from the best in the industry The World Spa & Wellness Convention offers one of the year’s few opportunities to hear many of the most experienced and high-profile names in the sector speak, sharing their input and expertise. 3. Fantastic networking opportunities The World Spa & Wellness Convention is not only a chance to hear leading industry professionals speak, but also to network with them, and with your spa and wellness peers and colleagues. The convention will feature a number of interactive sessions that actively encourage audience participation and offer the opportunity to talk to and engage in discussion with both session chairs and speakers as well as other delegates. 4. Discover the latest industry trends and launches The World Spa & Wellness Convention takes places as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at the Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. A leading trade event for the spa, beauty and wellness sectors, the show annually attracts around 17,000 visitors over two days and draws more than 300 brands from across the sectors, as exhibitors. 5. Takeaways Conferences can be expensive. From the conference ticket to the plane ticket, from the meals to the bar tab. And that doesn’t even include the time away from the office where you could be doing “work.” However, conferences provide a unique convergence of networking, learning, and fun into a single package. A good conference forces you to grow and challenge yourself. Plus, it allows your employees to get out of the office, gain confidence in their ability, and bring fresh ideas back to the business.

FOR BOTH

DAYS

R800 early bird special offer R1200 after the 15th of August

Silver Sponsor:

For more information on the convention programme log on to to www.probeauty.co.za/wsw.htm online @ probeauty.co.za


PROGRAMME 2 & 3 September 2018 Gallagher Convention Centre

Sunday, 2 September 8.30: Registration 9.30: Welcome by Professional Beauty CEO, Mark Moloney 9.45: Implementing international best practices at local and regional level – What is happening overseas? What is working and what, maybe, is just a fad. This panel will comprise top spa directors/managers with international experience who will reveal how they have introduced best practices from overseas into their South African and regional operations. 10.35: Practical wellness solutions that keep clients coming back – Spas are becoming increasingly focused on issues that affect the overall wellbeing of their guests, such as improved sleep, stress management, proper nutrition and fitness. This session will unpack the latest trends in this holistic spa movement and suggest ways that South African spas can introduce them into their service offering. 11.25: Tea Break 11.45: Differentiation for your spa brand – What makes your spa different? Do you have a recognisable USP (Unique Selling Point)? The session will help you to find your differentiation and give you some thought provoking ideas on how to exploit it. 12.35: Lunch, Networking Break and Expo Floor Visit 14.30: Can going green cut costs without affecting guest satisfaction? Going green is not all about hugging trees! If you are saving water, you are saving money and, considering the problems with Cape Town’s water supply, you are also doing your bit for the good of all. Most green initiatives can save you money and this session will show you how. 15.30: Tea Break 16.00: Creating a client for life – The cost of getting new clients can be enormous, involving advertising, special offers and so much more. Therefore, keeping that client is essential to your business. Hear some great client retention strategies that have worked for this panel.

Monday, 3 September 8.30: Registration 9.30: Spa disruptors – collaboration opportunities or crazy ideas? Maybe there is something that might make a difference to your spa. From renting out rooms to children’s spas and fitness, hear what is new and exciting and shaking up the spa sector. 10.20: The path to leadership is the best form of staff motivation – Staff are always one of the major challenges for any business. Motivation is essential to keep your team happy and working hard for you. It is not always about money, there are many other ways that you can create motivating initiatives. Happy staff means happy clients, which makes for good business. 11.10: Tea Break 11.30 Targeting corporates and their wellness programmes – Wellness is a BIG buzzword at the moment. Our panel gives ideas and suggestions as to how a spa can align itself with big corporates by way of customised packages, loyalty offers and schemes that can bring you regular business. 12.30: Lunch, Networking Break and Expo Floor Visit 14.30: The art of successful retailing Retail is one of the key profit centres for spas and it is the one area that is often neglected by therapists. This session will provide great ideas on how to motivate your staff and give them the tools to maximise both their personal income and ultimately that of the spa. 16.00: Convention closes Organised by:

T: +27 11 781 5970 E: info@probeauty.co.za W: www.probeauty.co.za/wsw.htm

*The organisers reserve the right to alter the programme due to unforeseen circumstances. online @ probeauty.co.za

World Spa & Wellness Convention

27


World Spa & Wellness Convention

28

Meet the speakers...

Top spa executives and independent experts are set to speak on highly topical issues relating to the spa business at the World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC), which runs on 2 & 3 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, alongside Professional Beauty Johannesburg.

A

s a prelude to WSWC, we asked some of our speakers to comment on their topics and the relevance of participating at industry events such as this.

MANDLA QUWE Spa Developer and Director at Eyosapho Holdings Pty Ltd, Mandla Quwe is speaking on the Targeting Corporates and their Wellness Programmes panel at 11h30 on Monday, 3 September. What would you like delegates to take away from your session? To acknowledge the significance of the wellness sector and how important it is for corporates to be aware of the benefits of incorporating wellness programmes in their everyday

online @ probeauty.co.za

routines. I believe it’s important to make wellness programmes a culture so that they become a norm. What are the key reasons you want to speak at the convention? Dealing with corporate people on a daily basis has placed me at an advantageous position with regards to understanding what is needed and what is trending. We live in such a rushed society with little time to breathe, yet every employer wants an efficient employee. So, what does it take to create a healthy, efficient employee? One way would be to develop custom designed wellness programmes as healthy employees take less sick leave and there is thus less medical cost to the company. Companies need to invest in the wellness of their professionals for maximum gain.

Why is it important for industry professionals to attend events like WSWC? One can never know everything, especially in our fast changing times and with the fast pace of changes in technology. Such events allow industry players the opportunity to learn about shifts in the industry that may affect them.


DR HELEN MUIR Health Optimizing Medical Practitioner at SantĂŠ Wellness Retreat & Day Spa in Franschoek, Dr Helen Muir is speaking on the Practical Wellness Solutions That Keep Clients Coming Back panel at 10h35 on Sunday, 2 September. What are the key reasons you want to speak at the convention? Burnt out executives are using spas and wellness retreats to recover, so well trained and informed staff are essential to this industry and can play a part in their healing.

wellness solution and drawing up an individualised plan going forward will be the most effective.

What would you like delegates to take away from your session? Five points to survive in the modern world.

Why is it important for industry professionals to attend events like the World Spa & Wellness Convention? To stay on the cutting edge of the latest treatments and technologies.

Why is Practical Wellness Solutions That Keep Clients Coming Back an important topic to address? There is no quick fix to any

What do you look for from the industry events you attend? The latest trends and solutions to common problems. Associating with like-minded people is always inspiring.

World Spa & Wellness Convention

29


World Spa & Wellness Convention

30 CHARNE LE ROUX Green Spa Developer and Sustainability Advisor, CharnĂŠ Le Roux is speaking on the Can Going Green Cut Costs Without Affecting Guest Satisfaction? panel at 14h30 on Sunday, 2 September. What would you like delegates to take away from your session? That the adoption of sustainable business practices is a business imperative; that it is possible to implement these without significant capital expense, and that they should be positioned to enhance guest experiences. Proprietors continually strive to improve guest satisfaction and experience within the constraints of managing a profitable business. Concerns around the anticipated expenses and possible negative

DR MOTHOMANG DIAHO Founder of the Spiral Aloe Lifetsyle Clinics & Spas, Dr Mothomang Diaho is speaking on the Targeting Corporates and Their Wellness Programmes Panel at 11h30 on Monday, 3 September. Why is Targeting Corporates and Their Wellness Programmes an important topic to address? Because many corporates strive to build workplace cultures where wellness is an integral part of their growth strategies, business values and everyday practices. The role of the spa and wellness industry plays a huge role in these initiatives.

guest experience associated with, for example retro-fitting water- and energy reduction fixtures, as well as the implementation of the associated new policies and programmes, often prohibit or postpone the adoption of these changes. It is necessary to debate these concerns and agree on compelling motivators for their implementation, sooner rather than later. What are the key reasons you want to speak at the convention? I consider the convention an important opportunity not only to share my knowledge and experience, but to help develop new avenues of sustainability. It is through an interactive sharing of ideas and knowledge that one can one develop an objective understanding of the challenges faced by industry members.

What would you like delegates to take away from your session? I would like them to have a better understanding of what additional benefits they can offer from the spa industry perspective, alongside prevention-based initiatives such as healthy eating, stress management or smoking cessation. Such initiatives can go a long way in advancing wellbeing in the workspace. What are the key reasons you want to speak at the convention? I am passionate about our lifestyle and its role and impact in our wellbeing. The time is right for the spa industry to actively seek and convene dialogues with other industries (including the lifestyle medical field) that are also driven to accelerate wellness globally, and for spa industry leaders to collectively agree to use the industry to advance wellness.

WAYNE STEWART

JOHN LAMBROU

Sales & Operations Manager – Green Leaf Alternative Solutions, Wayne Stewart is speaking on the Can Going Green Cut Costs Without Affecting Guest Satisfaction? panel at 14h30 on Sunday, 2 September.

Managing Partner of the multiple award-winning Life Day Spa Century City & Waterfront, John Lambrou is speaking on the Creating a client for life panel at 16h00 on Sunday, 2 September.

online @ probeauty.co.za


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World Spa & Wellness Convention

32 TARYN LILLEY Manager of the Spa at the Cape Grace Hotel in the V&A Waterfront, Taryn Lilley is speaking on the panel – The Path to Leadership is the Best Form of Staff Motivation – at 10h20 on Monday, 3 September. Why is The Path to Leadership is the Best Form of Staff Motivation an important topic to address? The reality is that we have a lack of highly skilled spa managers in our industry, as well as a typically high staff turnover of therapists. By investing in our people and creating a clear leadership path for each individual in our businesses, we are creating an environment that allows growth and promotes self-motivation. To be true leaders, we need to be able to master the

skills of coaching, mentoring and teaching. In this session we will explore practical ways of creating an environment in your business in which staff can reach new levels of performance and confidence. I am extremely passionate about our industry, but more specifically focused on the development and growth of people. The opportunity to share my experience with mentorship and leadership with industry colleagues is invaluable. In what direction do you anticipate the spa and wellness sector moving in the next 10 years? I think we will start to see a large focus on wellness travel as well as medical travel in the tourism industry. The focus is definitely moving towards disease

prevention and an overall lifestyle balance, so this, incorporated with planned vacation time, will start to take preference. In addition, staff retention plans will become more like career development plans and the introduction of wellness programmes in the workplace will most likely receive a lot more focus.

AMOR POTGIETER

MARISA DIMITRIADIS

TANYA LOPES

Spa Manager of The Fairway Spa (Guvon Group), Amor Potgieter is speaking on the Creating a client for life panel at 16h00 on Sunday, 2 September.

Founder / Owner of The Spa Consultants, Marisa Dimitriadis is speaking on the Practical wellness solutions that keep clients coming back at 10h35 on Sunday, 2 September.

Spa Manager of the Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, Tanya Lopes will be speaking on the Implementing international best practices at local and regional level panel at 9h45 on Sunday, 2 September.

FRANCISCO GARCIA

DEBBIE MERDJAN

JACKIE ARMITAGE

Independent Spa Consultant, formerly Director of Spa Operations, Amani Spa, Francisco Garcia is speaking on The art of successful retailing panel at 14h30 on Monday, 3 September.

Founder / Owner of the Camelot Spa Group, Debbie Merdjan is speaking on the panel, The Path to Leadership is the Best Form of Staff Motivation, at 10h20 on Monday, 3 September.

Spa Manager of The Spa at The Oyster Box, Jackie Armitage will be speaking on the Differentiation for your spa brand at 11h45 on Sunday, 2 September.

LEAH LIVANOS

PENNI DU PLESSIS

WINNIE NELSON

Founder / Owner of Revive Wellness Spa, Leah Livanos is speaking on the Creating a client for life panel at 16h00 on Sunday, 2 September.

Founder of Divine Space, Penni du Plessis will be speaking on the Practical wellness solutions that keep clients coming back at 10h35 on Sunday, 2 September.

Spa Manager of Pelonngwe Spa, Winnie Nelson will be speaking on the Differentiation for your spa brand at 11h45 on Sunday, 2 September.

online @ probeauty.co.za


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Sensitive Skin

35

A

delicate &reactive PALETTE

Professional Beauty looks at the latest treatments and products for treating sensitive skin and/or skin with a compromised barrier.

A

As the experts at TheraVine point out, it’s important to differentiate between sensitive skin and sensitised skin. “Sensitive skin is classified as a skin type, which you are born with (i.e. genetic). This skin type is mainly seen in fair and light skins and cannot be changed, but rather maintained and kept healthy. Such skin is prone to allergies and skin disorders such as eczema and psoriasis. “On the other hand, sensitised skin is classified as a skin condition and occurs as a result of lifestyle habits and environmental influences. Skin can become sensitised over time, or immediately from a particular product, environment, hormonal changes, etc. This condition can occur in any skin type and can be improved with correct treatment,” says the TheraVine team, emphasising that it’s extremely important to use the correct products for sensitive or sensistised skin to keep it comfortable, hydrated and healthy. Symptoms of sensitive skin include: being easily irritated or stimulated; easily feels tight, itchy, tingly or slightly burning; naturally appears red and blotchy; blushes

and flushes easily; feels dry, flaky and cracked; reacts easily to extreme temperatures; feels sensitive to the touch; appears thin and translucent; blood vessels are closer to the surface and appear more visible; broken capillaries may be present around the nose and cheek area; and bumps / breakouts may occur, especially on the cheek area.

Grape power TheraVine recommends the Hydra Vine™ Chardonnay Grape Mask for sensitive and sensitised skin, as well as for prematurely aged or mature skin and dry skin. A unique revolutionary cloth mask pre-moistened with anti-oxidant Chardonnay grape extract and hyaluronic acid, it helps moisturise and lock in active ingredients for up to three weeks, leaving the skin soothed, desensitised and hydrated. Other TheraVine products suitable for sensitive or sensitized

skin are: Cream Cleanser; HydraVine™ or Balancing Toner; Hydrating Pinotage Face Oil and/ or Hydrating Mango Face Balm and Super Hydrating Day Cream and/or Rejuvenating Night Harvest Cream.

Flora The technology behind the Dr Brandt Hydro Biotic recovery sleeping mask is based on the fact that there are naturally occurring microorganisms living in and on the body (i.e. bad flora and good flora). When the bad flora outnumbers the good, damaging toxins are released into the bloodstream that cause inflammation and skin flare ups. The Dr Brandt Hydro Biotic recovery sleeping mask restores the skin’s natural barrier, enabling it to host more good flora than bad, for healthier looking skin. This leave-on, daily mask works through the night in tandem with the body’s natural recovery processes. Dr Brandt’s Biotic Balancing Complex incorporates a nourishing blend of oligosaccharide, lactococcus and antioxidants. >

online @ probeauty.co.za


Sensitive Skin

36 Save Our Skin Comfort Cream, also from Dr Brandt, is a soothing lotion formulated to alleviate skin irritation and discomfort. It is designed as a daily treatment for sensitive skin, minor redness, or as an emergency solution for post laser peeling or injectables.

From the sea

The 24k Supreme Night Cream from Black Pearl incorporates a powerful hydrating formula for overnight nutritive support. Says Michelle Roberts of Black Pearl SA: “Helioguard 365 is an advanced algae-based complex that delivers strong defence from sun damage, helping to smooth fine lines and wrinkles. This product is fortified with the calming effects of resveratrol and is rich in antioxidants that help to restore firmness. “The night formula contains an effective moisturising antiageing complex to help return the skin’s natural moisture balance. Luxurious pure gold particles enriched with a luminous shimmering glow, rejuvenate the skin’s natural beauty and vibrancy while you sleep.” Also from Black Pearl, Perfect Day Cream 45+spf25 is a superb, silky and light textured day cream that is quickly absorbed. This cream contains effective moisturising agents for maximum protection against moisture loss. It keeps the skin balanced, rejuvenated and helps to smooth out small wrinkles.

Microsilver Doctor Babor’s Neuro Sensitive Cellular range for hypersensitive

online @ probeauty.co.za

and extremely dry skin now includes a Microsilver Concentrate to calm stressed skin. Along with the Intensive Calming Cream, Intensive Calming Cream Rich and Cleanser, it forms an effective quartet of specialist beauty products for the treatment of highly sensitive cases. The active ingredient Neuroxyl rebalances the skin’s communication system and desensitises the skin. Simultaneously, the microsilver prevents bacteria and foreign bodies from penetrating the skin’s surface. In clinical tests, the highly purified, elementary microsilver used by Babor has been shown to have an impressive antibacterial effect. It releases silver ions, which deposit themselves on the surface of the skin, with longlasting results, thus creating a reservoir effect. Gamma-linolenic acid obtained from evening primrose oil regenerates the skin’s protective acid mantle by stimulating the skin to produce its own ceramides. Lactate and dexpanthenol supply intensive moisture.

Repairing formulation The revolutionary creamserum formulation of QMS Medicosmetics Repair 3 Complex has been specifically designed to help reduce redness and relieve irritation in the skin. Repair 3 Complex uses the new and innovative ingredient, TCMNaringenin-Chalcone, which protects and soothes stressed skin. This silky smooth texture is ideal for even the most sensitive skins, and will be easily absorbed without leaving an oily residue. The result is a visibly relaxed, calmed complexion.

Serious serum The Team Dr Joseph Extra Sensitive Calming Serum is an intensive treatment for sensitive skin that restores skin to its natural balance. This highly concentrated and soothing facial serum is formulated with Edelweiss extract Bio (antioxidants); Lilly (protecting); Skin Save Extract (anti-oxidants, skin barrier, calming); natural hyaluronic acid (moisturising); huckleberry Bio (astringent); mallow Bio (cleansing and calming); chamomile extract Bio (calming); comfrey extract Bio (calming); and wheat proteins (moisturising and protecting).

Barrier integrity DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers a range of products that work to promote skin health by restoring barrier integrity, while reducing inflammatory responses within the skin. “This approach to a sensitive skin assists to reduce itching, redness and skin dryness often associated with this concern,” comments DermaFix’ Ursula Hunt. She recommends DermaFix HydraSilk Cleanser, a lightweight emollient cleanser that gently removes surface residues without stripping the skin of vital moisture. It furthermore works to restore skin hydration levels whilst effectively soothing the skin and can be left on the skin as a mini-masque option. “Our DermaFix Vitamin B Cream is a highly effective, moisturising cream recommended for all skin types,” continues Hunt. “Formulated with Vitamin B Complex, this moisturiser assists to soothe inflammation whilst promoting the natural healing capacity of the skin. DermaFix Skin ResQ may be incorporated for chronic skin sensitivity concerns, >



Sensitive Skin

38 including eczema and psoriasis. This nourishing emollient blend utilises Shea Butter and Murumuru Seed Butter, offering skin nourishment benefits along with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. The inclusion of CoQ10 provides boosted anti-oxidant protection and skin reparation potential.”

Mask of collagen Ideal for sensitive skin, the Kalahari Collagen Mask Device is a new generation system that allows the therapist to formulate a suitable collagen face mask according to the client’s skin condition. Booster Liquid is poured into the mixing processor along with one Kalahari Collagen Activator Tablet. The device will automatically pour the warm liquid into the Bottom Mould Tray, to set within six minutes. Kalahari also recommends the Phyto Comfort Lotion, which contains aloe leaf, chamomile extract and hyaluronic acid. The vitamin-rich ingredients have calming and soothing properties that will leave the skin nourished with a comforting matt effect.

‘Inflamm-ageing’ RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt points out that inflammation is easily triggered when the skin barrier is impaired. She continues: “The skin quickly becomes red, hot, itchy and inflamed. An inflammatory response to irritants is the body’s natural protective reaction, but unfortunately, in the repeated responses of hypersensitive skins, this can cause premature skin ageing. “Chronic inflammation includes eczema,

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neurodermatitis and psoriasis. Sensitive skin affects a large number of people and even small stimuli trigger inflammatory and immune reactions, leading to a vicious circle: The inflammatory response triggers additional cell damage, inducing a progressive deterioration of the skin barrier, creating substantial collateral damage. “Inflammatory processes can have a significant impact on skin ageing. This fact is reflected in the term ‘inflammageing’ (or inflammation ageing). It is essential to be able to fend off foreign substances with acute inflammatory reactions, at all ages.” RégimA’s new Anti-InflammAgeing is a highly effective, ultra rich, ‘fist aid’ kit for inflamed, irritated, or extremely sensitive skins. Rich in phytosterols, flavonols and new yeast biopeptides, it provides good epidermal-dermal cohesion by increasing collagen synthesis. Star ingredients include: balloon vine extract; extract from the bark of the eperua falcata aubl tree; pichia anomala yeast; rosehip fruit oil; blackcurrant seed oil; and retinyl palmitate.

Vitamin boost The SIX Sensational Skincare Vitamin Booster Oil is positioned as a regenerating, restructuring and anti-ageing vitamin cocktail for the skin.

Active ingredients include caprylic / capric triglyceride and coconut oil to condition the skin and prevent dryness: jojoba for its hydrating properties and to prevent trans epidermal water loss (TEWL); Vitamin E (a powerful moisturising antioxidant); oat lipid-avena sativa kernel oil (rich in skin identical fatty acids to hydrate the skin and improve the skin barrier); pistacia lentiscus (mastic) (antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory); and shea butter to retain skin moisture and elasticity).

Neurocosmetics

Says Tatiana Shuvalova of Ericson Laboratoire SA: “Sensitive skin is characterised by a low tolerance threshold, with increased permeability of the stratum corneum and exaggerated nervous response. “Our research laboratories have developed a new action mechanism – Neurocosmetics – which is capable of reducing the response of the neurons that are sensitive to external stimuli. The tolerance threshold is raised, skin is less reactive to the various stimuli and pain and feelings of discomfort are reduced. Our research laboratories were able to highlight a new active ingredient resulting from biotechnology: Skinasensyl, a solution of tetrapeptide derived from opioid peptides.” Ericson Laboratoire’s DermaCalm treatment enables deactivating the link between harmful internal / external factors and their manifestations on the skin.


Reducing redness From LCN, the ingredients in the Regenerating Luminous Skin Mask effectively remove impurities and provide a fresh, radiant complexion. It reduces redness to promote cell regeneration over sensitive areas. Kaolin White Clay absorbs excess oil and has an anti-inflammatory effect on any skin type, including an active acne skin.

Harmonious balance Pevonia’s Sensitive Line calms and controls skin hypersensitivity with ultra-gentle healing elements that alleviate and harmoniously correct the skin’s blotchiness and irritability.

Key Ingredients include: propolis (healing, soothing, vaso-constricting); calendula (calms irritation, desensitizing); horse chestnut (desensitizing, decongesting); and chamomile (calming, healing).

Essential skin nutrients A silky emulsion designed to enhance skin moisturisation by providing essential skin nutrients that help strengthen and repair skin barrier function, Priori Barrier Restore Complexe aids the replenishing and revitalising of impaired skin. It helps strengthen and repair skin barrier function and aids in the soothing and healing of the skin, while offering anti-irritant properties. Key ingredients include Anti-Irritant Complex (comprising allantoin, bisabolol and sucrose cocoate) and green tea and licorice extract. PB

Sensitive Skin

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Michelle Scheepers is invited to try the Depilève Cerazyme Soft Bright Paraffin Treatment, a luxurious add-on to the Cerazyme Depilbright Skin Care Epilation Treatment.

H

aving been lucky enough to experience the Cerazyme Depilbright Skin Care Epilation Treatment recently and witnessing its brightening and conditioning effect on my skin, I was really looking forward to the Cerazyme Soft Bright Paraffin Treatment.

Said Smart Buy/Depilève area manager and trainer, Adri Maritz: “In formulating its epilation products, Depilève has always strongly focused on the skin care aspect. The Soft Bright Paraffin Treatment was specifically created to pamper and brighten the hands and feet. It can be offered to clients as an add-on to their Depilbright Skin Care Epilation Treatment which, as you know, was designed to lighten and brighten skin as well as remove hair.” She emphasised that it is vitally important to sanitise the client’s hands before dipping them into

the Soft Bright paraffin wax spa. My hands were prepped with Cerazyme Dermo Spray, an antiseptic cleanser, followed by the application of Dermo Peel, an exfoliating gel cream with Jojoba pearls and, more importantly, lemon extract. Maritz continued: “Jojoba preps the skin to optimise active ingredient absorption. This exfoliant is waterless and massaged into the skin until fully absorbed. We then tone the skin with Derma Balance to further ensure full penetration of the active ingredients in the Depilbright Body Serum, which contains Gatuline Spot-Light and Citris Unshiu Extract. This is the first ingredient to act against spots and skin darkening at both epidermal and dermal level.” She noted that clients get to take the rest of the serum home with them. Once the serum was absorbed, Maritz dipped my hands – three times – into the pearlescent Soft Bright paraffin wax spa. The paraffin is enriched with two depigmentation agents, Alpha-Arbutin and White Mulberry. Maritz then inserted my hands into Depilève Protector Bags, covered with mitts, to keep the wax warm for 10 minutes. “Our Protector Bags are biodegradable and disintegrate within three months – we don’t

encourage the use of traditional plastic bags,” commented Maritz. She also stressed that if salons prefer, instead of dipping the client’s hand into the paraffin wax spa, they can pour the wax straight into the Protector Bag, insert the client’s hand into the bag and mould the wax around the hand. “However, I must point out that there is no hygiene risk at all with dipping the hand into the paraffin spa because the hand is thoroughly sanitised and exfoliated first,” said Maritz. The thermal effect of the warm wax created micro-channels in the skin so my hands felt tingly as the active ingredients penetrated. Upon removal of the wax, Maritz applied the Soft Bright Hand Cream – this is the recommended home care product – a non-greasy nourishing cream that has a brightening and anti-blemish effect. My hands looked really radiant and smooth and felt totally moisturised after this fabulous treatment. PB

Contact Smart Buy/Depilève: 011 888 9044

online @ probeauty.co.za

Treatment review

treatment A brightening

41


More than waxing, it’s a beauty treatment

Hypo allergenic wax

GENTLE - EFFECTIVE - COMFORTABLE Highly efficient. Respectful to the skin. Encapsulate hair for superior result.

Dermatologically tested. Comfortable application. New patented formulas.

Less redness. Less painful. Highly profitable.

021 2020377 | ORDERS@SABEAUTYDISTRIBUTORS.CO.ZA UNIT S4 SPEARHEAD BUSINESS PARK, MONTAGUE GARDENS, CAPE TOWN


Treatment review

43

Smooth

operator A somewhat hairy-legged Micaela Carelse heads off to WAXIT Kyalami to experience a Cirépil by Perron Rigot waxing treatment.

H

air removal is quite an important issue for me as I’m fairly hirsute. I tend to shave the hair on my legs, which is quite tiresome as the hair grows back quickly, so I was keen to undergo a waxing treatment with Cirépil by Perron Rigot, which I know to be a high-end salon brand.

My treatment was booked at WAXIT Kyalami, a wax bar dedicated solely to smooth skin and positioned as ‘a haven of hairlessness’. On arrival, therapist (and ‘WAXITologist’), Sikhangele Matutu, was very complimentary about Cirépil. “This is an excellent wax that is manufactured in France. Its texture is much softer than the other waxes I’ve used, which makes it so easy to work with. Cirépil is suitable for sensitive skin, being hypoallergenic and resin-free. It also comes with its own range of pre- and post wax products,” said Matutu. The treatment commenced with the application of the Cirépil

Antiseptic Blue Lotion onto my calves. This is a cleanser that can also be used on delicate, sensitive areas. It contains organic cornflower water to hydrate, soothe and tone the skin. Next, Matutu rubbed a small amount of the paraben-free Cirépil Pre Depilatory Jasmin Oil onto the skin to ensure that the wax adhere only to the hair and not the skin. She applied a thin layer of the Cirèpil strip-wax (by means of a cartridge) in the direction of the hair growth on the front of my calves and then removed the wax (and hair) very rapidly with a strip, in the opposite direction. The strip-wax is formulated with microcrystalline, giving it a much easier and less sticky application. It was very effective – I literally only had two weeks growth on my legs and yet the wax managed to remove all the hair. Once all the wax on the front of my calves was removed, Matutu re-applied the Antiseptic Blue Lotion, followed by the Jasmin Oil to remove any wax residue. To finish off, she applied the Cirépil

Moisturising Lotion, which felt cool and smooth on the skin. Matutu then repeated the whole process on the back of the calves. I did not experience any redness, sensitivity or irritation at all. She said that ideally I should wait for four weeks before coming back for another treatment and that I should avoid sun exposure on the treated area for 48 hours.

Matutu then performed an intimate wax, using a stripless wax. She said: “Each of Cirépil’s stripless waxes has its own unique properties but the elastomers that are present in all the waxes shrinkwrap around the hair and do not adhere to the skin. This makes it a skin friendly waxing experience as Cirepil believes waxing should be more like a skincare treatment that respects the integrity of the skin.” I was delighted with the way that the Cirépil wax left my legs and intimate area fabulously smooth and hair free, while simultaneously leaving the skin feeling hydrated. PB Contact SA Beauty Distributurs: 021 551 2409

online @ probeauty.co.za


Hair Removal – Product

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Hair-less times Given society’s on-going craze for hair-free bodies and faces, product-based hair removal treatments should not only be a steady revenue generator for salons but one of their biggest.

T

he number of specialist waxing bars and/or salons in South Africa has grown over the past few years, with the establishment of the likes of WAXIT, Fast and Furious Waxing Specialists, Nibblewaxbar and Ooh Lala Waxing Boudoir, among others, clearly indicating the steady growth for this sector of the beauty industry. Below we take a look at just some of the professional product-based hair removal systems on the market.

Revolutionary brand Cirépil by Perron Rigot was introduced to South Africa seven years ago. Says Helena Rodrigues of SA Beauty Distributors: “Cirépil revolutionised the waxing industry when they developed strip-less wax and are the leader in hyper allergenic waxes. I believe we changed the way people see waxing. Each Cirépil strip-less wax has unique properties, but the elastomers that are present in all our strip-less waxes shrink-wrap around the hair and do not adhere to the skin, thus making it a waxing experience that is much more skin friendly.” Rodrigues notes that Cirépil’s Hair Minimising Body Lotion is specially formulated with a fluid and delicate texture, designed to keep the client’s skin refreshed and hydrated. Containing witch hazel, arnica and menthol to slow down re-growth after waxing, the lotion leaves hair increasingly finer. “Clinical testing shows a 23% decrease in regrowth over a period of 21 days. It was specifically designed for use after each hair removal session and then daily for the most effective results,” she comments. The Cirépil Ingrown Hair Serum eliminates and prevents the formation of ingrown hairs. This product contains a high concentration of active ingredients, including papaya and star anise extracts to exfoliate the skin’s surface. Aloe vera extract moisturises and softens the skin, while brown seaweed extract soothes the skin and reduces redness.

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45 Hair Removal – Product

Skin care epilation The Depilève Cerazyme Depilbright Skin Care Epilation treatment is positioned as unique in the market as not only will it leave the client hair free, it will also brighten the skin. In addition, it will lighten any pigmentation spots. Says Adri Maritz of Smart Buy / Depilève: “All Depilbright treatment products are formulated to act on hyperpigmentation, help prevent spot formation and brighten the skin tone. Depilbright uses the highest percentage permitted of active ingredients that have skin lightening, antioxidant and moisturising properties. The system is suitable for the face and body. Both the Depibright film wax and strip wax contain Alpha-Arbutin (which inhibits tyrosinase – one of the major enzymes involved in spot formation), as well as White Mulberry root for its bleaching properties. The Depilbright Intimate & Facial Serum, as well as the Depilbright Body Serum, contain Gatuline Spot-Light to act against pigmentation. Pore dilation occurs due to the heat of the film wax, thereby stimulating blood flow and creating micro channels to ensure deep penetration of the serum. The exfoliating effect of the wax simultaneously rejuvenates the skin, resulting in what Depilève calls a ‘porcelain polished effect’.

Back to basics Xanitalia Idema Wax has been introduced to the market by Marica Products, the sole exclusive agent and distributor within Africa and South Africa. The Xanitalia brand offers a wide range of wax to suit any client’s hair removal needs. Says Marica’s Sharon Prince: “This brand takes you back to basics, with quality and support with every wax, removing hair from the root instead of breaking it off at the skin. Any residue left behind, which is mostly nonexistent, is easily washed off with water, making life that much easier.” The Liposoluble wax is available in wax tins of 400g and 800g, as well as 100ml rollers. Xanitalia’s traditional hot wax is built with extra elasticity to help protect the skin from lifting and hair from snapping off. It is available in disks and pebbles. Marica has started off with the in-demand flavours and will be expanding the range in due time. The range is complemented by an after care range that has oils and lotions to suit every skin’s needs, be it winter or summer. Pre-cut strips come in packs of a hundred and a wax roll of 70m.

Vegan wax NakedCherry’s Vegan Hot Wax is made with an exceptional resin that remains pliable and really grippy, even on finer hair. The Vegan Hot Wax contains no animal byproducts or fragrances of any kind, so it’s suitable even for the most sensitive of skins especially because, like all NakedCherry waxes, it contains only high-quality, natural ingredients. >

online @ probeauty.co.za


Hair Removal – Product

46 It’s a scream! As its name implies, Twincare International’s very own South African waxing brand, Screaming Beauty, was conceived to introduce a fun element into waxing, with product names such as Jack The Ripper and The Screamer. Locally researched and developed, Screaming Beauty consists of four hot waxes with delicious scents. The Wax Addict Hot Wax, The Screamer, is easy to use and gently removes hair with the root, leaving the client with smooth, soft, hair free skin for weeks. This wax is made with natural gum rosin, providing flexibility to allow it to grip around contours of the area being treated. The rosin is blended with titanium dioxide and mica, preventing excessive pulling of the skin and minimising sensitivity of the skin. With a rich consistency and lustrous opalescent pearl colour, it is perfect for sensitive skin and delicate areas, large or small. The Wax Screaming Strip Waxes, Jack The Ripper, also feature four delicious fragrances and opalescent pearl colours and are ideal for large areas. The pine tree resin provides the wax with superior adhesion properties that grip the hairs for efficient removals, while the other ingredients minimise sensitivity and protect and condition the skin. Screaming Beauty treatment products include The Vanilla Pre Base Oil, Oil Me Up (enriched with vanilla and apricot kernel oil); The Pre Wax Gel, Fore Play (an alcohol based product that breaks down oil bonds on the skin surface); The Post Wax Lotion, Calm Down Sista! (contains marigold extracts with anti-bacterial properties and soothing rose flower extract); The Citrus Equipment Cleaner, Dirty Talk (contains limonene to break down bonds between fatty and wax substances); and The Ingrown Hair Serum, Gold Digger (with anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties to soothe and heal as well as tighten exposed follicles).

Sugaring Sugaring unwanted facial and body hair requires an entirely different mind-set and approach from waxing. Alexandria Professional sugaring products do not adhere to live skin cells on bodies, faces, or legs. This is one of the major differences between sugaring and waxing legs and other more sensitive areas. When sugaring paste is removed, it only gently exfoliates dead skin cells, leaving behind silky smooth skin. Additionally, because Alexandria Professional sugaring paste is all natural and water soluble, it can be easily rinsed away if needed. The removal technique extracts hair in its natural direction of growth. Because the sugar paste seeps into the hair follicle, it helps lubricate the hair root, regardless of whether it’s on the legs or anywhere else on your client. All Alexandria sugar pastes are very safe and skin friendly and are performed at body temperature. Alexandria has a range of pre- and post wax products.

Alternative method DermaFix Conditioning Alkaline Wash is a professional protocol provided by selected DermaFix stockists, offered as an alternative to traditional in-clinic facial hair removal protocols. This wash helps to soften the skin, minimises regrowth of hair and assists to alleviate post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation concerns often noticed with long term waxing use. PB

online @ probeauty.co.za


Your Window on the World of Beauty Increase your profit in 2018 Last year was a tough year for all of us. Take the opportunity to improve your

profit, knowledge and business for 2018 by attending the Professional Beauty exhibitions. Not only will you see some great brands, new products and special offers, but also have the opportunity to attend our fantastic series of workshops to help you increase your business knowledge, improve your skills or learn about exciting new treatments.

JOHANNESBURG 2-3 September 2018 Gallagher Convention Centre Register at www.probeauty.co.za for FREE and enjoy the following: • Special offers from a wide range of suppliers • New products and ideas • Fantastic educational workshops • Improve your industry knowledge • Network with your peers Visit www.probeauty.co.za for more information


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A

really ‘showy’

EVENT

The Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, the biggest event of its kind in Africa, takes place on Sunday, 2 September and Monday 3, September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. Here is a preview of just some of the exciting brands that will be exhibiting. Advanced Cosmetics Africa Stand B4 The powerful combination of Pure and Natural Skincare and Skin Specific Dietary Supplements. AFFECT Professional Cosmetics Stand H31

Annique Health & Beauty Stand M23 50% discount on selected Annique Rooibos product packages at the show. Visitors can enjoy a Rooibos tea tasting and experience the miracle in Rooibos for body and skin. AnonaMiss Beauty Emporium Stand M22 Exclusive show specials on Manic Semi-Permanent Hair Colours and Miss Tresse Sulphate-Free Hair Care. Visitors can try out colour without commitment with a demonstration of Manic Panic temporary Dye Hard Colour styling gels.

AFFECT Professional Cosmetics is a fusion of high quality cosmetics and affordable price; the experience of respected make-up masters and the boldness of extravagant make-up with natural beauty. Alila Professional Makeup Stand G22 Alila Professional Makeup offers exceptional quality make-up products and accessories at unbeatable prices.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Beauty Academy International Stand M30 Beauty Academy International will showcase and offer up to 20 % off Beauty Image Wax, D’orleac Make up with new paraben free foundations and Rubis tweezers, as well as launch SunFX NEW Mocha Xpress spray tan solution. Best Lasers Stand A1 Best Lasers, official distributors of Alma Lasers International, will showcase the latest innovations in its portfolio. Visitors can experience the

award winning Soprano ICE, with live demonstrations of the Alma Beauty Reboost. Best Enterprise Stand A3 Best Enterprise is the sole SubSaharan Africa distributor of Formatk Systems Ltd., featuring a wide spectrum of technologies. Technical, clinical and marketing support is offered. Bio Sculpture Stand F22

Bio Sculpture will introduce all its latest Evo and Bio Sculpture colours, with live demos on the stand and many special offers. BTL Medical SA Stand B7 BTL Industries designs and manufactures non-surgical machines for fat dissolving, skin tightening, anti-cellulite, antiwrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL treatments.


49

Creative Glamour Stand H22 Special discount on all Creative Glamour products, with the ‘Make your own 24 shade lipstick / eyeshadow palette’ for only R500 (usually R1060). Cosmoprof Stand B9 The ABLASE Plasma Pen is CE Medical certified for beauty, dermatology, soft surgery and gynaecology. Ideal for doctors and somatologists, the device includes Mesotherapy and Fractional RF attachments. Crystal Foot Files Stand E41 Crystal Foot Files is a proudly South African product handmade in order to empower the unemployed. Dermacare Distributors Stand H1 Popular Holiday Elastique film wax now comes in Black beads. It spreads thinner, heats at lower temperatures and stays even more flexible. New packaging on Lotions and White Elastique.

Elements nail & beauty concepts Stand J29

Flamingo Stand L32 Flamingo will offer never to be repeated launch specials. Show visitors can save up to 50%.

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Calgel Stand H5 Exciting specials to be revealed, as well as new product and colour launches. View the incredible variety of freehand nail art possible with Calgel.

Genop Stand C13 Genop will launch NeoStrata’s new Tri-Therapy Lifting Serum, which revolutionises skincare regimes by volumising, renewing and smoothing the skin. Elements nail & beauty concepts strives to provide top quality professional services and products supported by professional training of the highest standards. Official distributor for ‘The Eyelash Emporium’ lash brand in South Africa. ESP Salon and Spa Software Stand D35 ESP, South Africa’s foremost Salon & Spa Management Software, offers Software, Training, Support, Business Intelligence, Business Consulting, SMSs and Hardware.

Gina@work Stand H17 Gina@work will showcase beautiful, colourful salon wear for beauty professionals. Stock will be available at the show, with a discount of 10% on the website prices. Guinot Stand E9

Ever Beauty® SA Stand C4

Ericson Laboratoire Stand B12

Ever Beauty® SA is about using make-up as a platform to create a beautiful South African community. Experience the exciting Ever Beauty® SA exclusive range.

Ericson Laboratoire offers face and body care products and in-salon methods using high concentrations of active ingredients to achieve quick, visible results.

Extracts Pure Collection Stand F42 The Extracts Collection ™ Massage Oil is a PREGNANCY SAFE, omega rich, aromatherapy blended massage oil. Free introductory Pregnancy Massage Training course when purchasing four oils or more.

Vistors to the stand can experience mini facials with Guinot’s NEW Hydradermie Machine, In addition, two brand new product launches will be revealed. inVISION Lasers / DEKA Stand D17 inVISION presents DEKA from Italy. Flagship lasers are The Monalisa Touch, Motus AX, Motus AY, The Onda and SmartLipo. Finance, Rental, Warranty and Training included. i-Spa Stand L8 i-Spa is a supplier of high quality spa and salon products, supplies and accessories, as well as a distributor for various spa and salon luxury brands.

online @ probeauty.co.za

>


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50 ITEC and VTCT Stand A10 ITEC-VTCT have launched new level 4 and 5 Aesthetic Therapies Qualifications and end-exam based Hairdressing Qualifications. Jiu Jiu Stand H21 Lots of new nail gels, as well as a new stone for nail deco and art stickers, will be showcased. Kalahari Spa Stand E15 Kalahari’s PMYTO effective products consist of concentrated plant extracts, PMYTD compounds and plant oils that are sourced from indigenous African plants. Kallini Stand H46

Kallini offers a balanced and uniquely formulated product for all skin types, using the most active, bio technologyrelated ingredients to combat ageing, decrease wrinkles and improve moisture by 35%. Prizes to be won at selfie booth. Kryolan Stand E32 For 70 years and across three generations, Kryolan has been making its own professional make-up. Lamarie Cosmetics Stand K29 Visitors to Lamarie Cosmetics will experience demos with the Skin-Analysis machine and a facelift using the Bio-Beauty Bar.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Lamprobe Blemish Removal Stand D25 Janine Thomson offers an Advanced Skin & Dermatology Course designed for somatologists and aesthetic doctors specialising in skin irregularities / blemishes and lesions. Approved by the Wits Health Consortium and doctors receive CPD points for attendance. Looking Good LCN Stand D14 & E14 Introducing the latest technology in permanent make-up and skin tightening from LCN. A multifunctional beauty unit, made in Germany, combines four modern cosmetic treatments in one unit. Lilian Terry International Stand F18 Lilian Terry International will showcase exciting new products. Product formulator and director, Dr Kateryna Tsvyetkova (MD, PhD, Homeopath), will be present. Luscious Lashes International Stand M2 The latest techniques in Lash & Brow enhancements from internationally certified trainers using Luscious Lashes’ Internationally Accredited Course Material. Lime Light Stand J5 Lime Light will offer huge specials on furniture, equipment and products; up to 50% off and a huge range of stock on offer. Linds Distribution Nanacoco Stand F14 Visitors can find out the latest trends of cosmetics and beauty products from the USA and Europe.

Lovella Lash and Brow Artistry Stand J4

Visitors can experience cutting edge education, breakthrough products, avant-garde lash / brow demonstrations and promotions first hand. LUMA Beauty Stand D9 LUMA Beauty was created by Jessica Hart – the quintessential Aussie beauty and top model. LUMA is a curated range of musthave, multi-use products based on the illuminating properties of crushed pearl. Marica Salon Specialists Stand K4, K6, K8 & K8A

Marica will highlight Xanitalia Idema Wax, which removes hair from the root instead of breaking off at the skin. This Liposoluble wax is available in wax tins of 400g and 800g as well as 100ml rollers. Xanitalia hot wax is available in disks and pebbles. Marica will also showcase the Terminator T808-A, a diode laser hair removal system from Beauty Maschine aligned with Dr Baumann Bionome Cosmetics in Germany. Also used for skin refining, resurfacing, toning and anti-ageing.


51 NSI Africa Stand J12 NSI will offer educational demos on all product ranges and extreme shapes, launch its new Sugar Factory Polish Pro Colours and showcase the Revolutionary Simplicite Polydip System.

My Appointment Stand C30 An online booking mobile app that includes a fully integrated salon management system offering the latest reporting, payments and loyalty programmes.

Opatra London Stand H30 Free samples will be offered as well as alternatives to botulinum toxin. Visitors can learn how LED and Ultra Sonic Devices can instantly tighten up skin, and how the DermiNeck smart vibration technology helps relax the neckline muscles and firm the skin.

Mycro Keratin Stand H15 This 90-minute in salon Keratin treatment removes frizz and repairs the hair, while leaving it soft, smooth, straight and super shiny. nailsforu Stand F4 Polish Applique is a new and easy way to remove LED / UV cured gel top coat. Needleless to SAY Stand F24 Cutting edge, sterilised formulations and exclusive ranges of professional products for hair, face and body treatments, as well as skincare aesthetic devices and fractional mesotherapy. NeoNail Stand E22 More than 2,500 products and 270 breathtaking UV gel polish colours are offered. NeoNail polishes stand out for their chipresistance, durability of up to 21 days and quick application. Neutriherbs SA Stand E45 Free prizes and discounts on any show orders.

Pure Smile Stand L22 A painless, 30-minute, once off teeth-whitening treatment that can gain from two to nine shades without gum irritation or tooth sensitivity. Purlés Stand D16 Purlés transforms a treatment into a ceremony, making it a spiritual experience. Radiant Healthcare Stand B18 Live demos of the Cocoon Cool Tech cryolipolysis treatment, as well as the Lavatron Radiofrequency anti-ageing and slimming device. RégimA Stand C2 Multiple award-winning RégimA launches new Anti-InflammAgeing and the Double Whammy Peel, and showcases detoxifying, purifying, oxygenating, slimming and lifting products.

Rey Group Stand G12

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Matis Stand D8 Matis’ international educator from Paris, Cécile Guignard, will be conducting Flash Beauty Treatments on the stand. Giveaways and incredible specials available.

A special discounted price for every product on show, saving between 20 – 40% off the normal prices. Rey will launch its new Perfect Match Liquid Foundation in a 50ml bottle. Free gift with every purchase at stand. SAAHSP Stand A20 SAAHSP is the Professional Body for the Skin, Body and Nail Care industry. Santap Technologies / Lollipop Beauty Stand L2 Stylists can get discovered by new clients and grow their business by listing their services and available hours on Lollipop Beauty. Scent.Ology Stand K17 Bespoke scents and scent products for the beauty industry, from fully automated systems and solutions to small scent products. Soak Off Solutions - SOS Stand K23 SOS (Soak off Solutions) is an exciting new retail kit which allows you to remove all types of gel polish at home. Skin Scripts Stand B32 Products developed for the Southern African climate at very affordable prices. Skinny Tan Stand J15 Skinny Tan, the natural self-tanner that dissimulates the visual effects of cellulite, will launch its new and improved range. >

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52 Sparkle Cosmetics Stand G8, G14, H8 & H14 Sparkle Cosmetics distributes the world’s leading nail products to spas, salons and retailers nationwide with a fully accredited Sparkle Nail Academy. Brands include Morgan Taylor, Gelish Soak-Off Gel, PolyGel and Dip. Stern Laser Stand D29 Stern Laser distributes and maintains the very latest in aesthetic laser equipment and supplies aesthetic solutions to all leading cosmetic institutions in South Africa. STUDEX Stand G4 APS will demonstrate to salon owners how offering an easy to use and extremely hygienic STUDEX® ear piercing service can increase both income and foot traffic. Spraytan Sunless Tanning Stand M3

For a natural ‘just off the beach’ bronze, Spraytan is an importer and distributor of world class professional sunless tanning equipment and solutions. Training is included in the price of all spray tanning systems. Hugely discounted prices will be offered. Sulè Loggenberg Stand F1 Sulé Loggenberg MMPSI - World Renowned Institute of Permanent Makeup and Microblading is internationally accredited. SAAHSP-approved courses including PMU and microblading.

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Sun Skin and Sun Kidz Stand K2 UV-DERM SPF50 – a sunscreen range with ultimate protection against UVA, UVB, HEV (blue light) and IR-A (InfraRed-A), for face, body & face, babies, also tinted sunscreen. SKIN KIDZ has Cosmos Cert EcoCert Certification. Tanya Oliver Stand C26 Excusive make-up classes offered to companies and individuals. Tattoo Remoov Stand B30 For safe technique for removal of unwanted PMU and body tattoos, this FDA approved product with pH 9.5 contains natural ingredients. No laser, acid or saline products are involved. The Lash Company SA Stand G39 Spend R300 or more at the stand and be entered into a draw to win a Volume Eyelash Extension Course to the value of R6,000. Winner announced on 4 September 2018. The Hitech Group Stand C12 The Hitech Group [Hitech Lasers (Pty) Ltd and Medilase] offers products from the world’s leading manufacturers. The portfolio includes single- and multitechnology multi-application systems for skin rejuvenation, skin resurfacing, acne treatments, laser hair removal, tattoo removal, body contouring, vein treatments and vaginal rejuvenation. Three new systems: PiQo4; Lumenis NuEra™ Hair Removal device; and Lumenis SplendorX on show. The Spa Consultants Stand E4 Visitors will be able to see innovative new facial treatment techniques and sit down to a glass of champagne with business development strategists.

The Waxpot PTY LTD Stand J1

A direct importer of quality depilatory equipment and consumables, including the best Italian Wax and the revolutionary ‘No Heat’ patented range of wax – Remove from Turkey. No minimum quantites required. Trendity Pty Ltd Stand M21 New, stylish and comfy beauty and spa uniform ranges will be on show. Visitors can choose from a wide range of stock items or have their uniform custom made. Twincare International Stand J14 Visitors will experience the world of Artistic Nails, as well as loads of special offers from brands like ibd, Screaming Beauty Waxes and Artistic Nails. Urban Skin Rx Stand H32 Urban Skin Rx is a clinical skincare line specialising in melanin-rich skin. 30% off all products. Venus Concept Stand C9 Venus Concept launches the Venus Velocity Diode Hair Removal system: safe, efficient, with three interchangeable lenses in one applicator. Young Nails South Africa Stand F5 The company has done everything in its power to create the very best in the business. Amazing tools and quality product.


53 Show Preview

It’s

Salon Africa

time

Salon Africa, the premier expo for the hairdressing industry, takes place on Sunday, 2 September and Monday, 3 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. Here are just some of the brands that will be exhibiting. Beard Boys Stand D5 Beard Boys will launch ‘never seen before’ items for the male grooming market. Biosense Stand C1 A proudly South African brand, produced specifically for the South African consumer. Purchase Biosense’s famous Silver shampoo and 12 in 1 treatment, as well as various specials. BlackGold Castor Oil Stand H19 Castor Blackgold offers 100% pure authentic Jamaican grown black castor oil and scented black castor oil, great for thickening and regrowing hair, eyelashes and eyebrows. IntrinsiCurly Me Stand J2 IntrinsiCurly Me offers salon quality for all curl types. Made in South Africa and free of silicone, parabens and sulfate.

INOAR Stand B12 INOAR remains a frontrunner with its revolutionary hair treatments, after care and now, colour. Lime Light Stand D10 & D8 Lime Light will offer huge specials on furniture, equipment and products. Up to 50% off. Marica Salon Specialists Stand B5, B3, B2, C4, C8 Marica will showcase the Professional By Fama range, based on the combined technology of black pearl with strengthening re-mineralising properties to give hair more shine and brightness. Made in Italy, By Fama’s professional colour is a gel-cream formula with a low ammonia content. Moroccanoil Stand E8

DLT Media Stand H11 DLT Magazines provide businesses with magazines, up to 50% discounts offered.

Mycro Keratin Stand A1 This 90-minute in salon Keratin treatment will remove frizz and repair hair, leaving it soft smooth, straight and super shiny.

ESP SALON AND SPA SOFTWARE Stand G10 ESP offers Software, Training, Support, Business Intelligence, Business Consulting, SMS’s and Hardware.

NativeChild Stand C12 A natural hair and body care brand created for the underserved needs of women of colour.

Rapple Salon Products Stand C10 Visitors can view the new Ocrys hair treatment range, one of the top sellers in Europe. Paul Mitchell Stand A12 Sharplines Stand A7 Amazing deals and live demos on a wide variety of Sharplines brands such as BabylissPRO tools, Brazilian Keratin, Ikoo, iHair, Cerrioti, Parlux and many more. Strands of love Stand A2 Specials on Strands of Love hair extensions; SoL Professional Hair Products at cost price. The new Balayage colour range in seamless tape extensions will be launched. Wahl Clipper South Africa Stand C2 & D7 Wahl Clipper South Africa will offer education (including a new cutting course), styling and state of the art pro cutting tools. Demos of amazing barbering techniques.

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Treatment Review

55

The

ABLASE

plasma method

Intent of taking action against her Crow’s feet, Madelein Muir undergoes The Plasma Method treatment, performed with the Ablase Cosmetic Corrector.

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ith age, I’ve developed rather deep Crow’s feet under my eyes, so I was keen to try a non-invasive skin tightening treatment to reduce them. Sonja Schroder of Cosmoprof suggested The Plasma Method from Ablase. Said Schroder: “Ablase is registered with the South African Department of Health and is CE Medical certified. This device is perfectly safe and produces amazing results that last between three to five years. It is a nonsurgical solution which may be used by doctors, nurses and somatologists. “Categorised as a plasma pen, Ablase produces an electrical arc that is attracted to the moisture in the skin. The resultant tiny injury shrinks the skin around the wrinkle, while stimulating collagen production. A small scab forms over the injury and recovery time is just five to seven days. There is zero risk of PIH on skin types 1 – 5. “Ablase is manufactured in Italy. The device also comes with additional attachments for Mesotherapy, Fractional RF and Rhytide attachments, which is an added bonus. A vaginal rejuvenation attachment will be launched in September.” I learnt that the Ablase doesn’t actually touch the skin, it is placed just above it. Ablase produces

energy in the form of a high flow of electrons (i.e. ionised gas), similar to a tiny light. After I completed a detailed consent form that emphasised the mandatory use of the Plasmart Pre & Post Care products, Schroder applied some numbing cream to the treatment area, for 20 minutes. She explained that Cosmoprof provides three stages of training for Ablase operators spanning a 12-month period: these include: the removal of benign lesions (moles, fibromas, xanthalasma, angiomas, telangistacia etc), non-surgical blepharo-lifting; frown lines, lower lid and Crow’s feet removal, face, neck and

bust lifting, scar attenuation, stretchmark and tattoo removal. As Schroder commenced the treatment I could feel the heat of the electrical arc produced by the Ablase. It tingled a bit but there was no pain. The treatment was very quick – in the space of 10 minutes both eyes had been completed. I could see the instant smoothing and tightening effect. Said Schroder: “It’s very important to take before and after photos, as well as to sit the patient up during the treatment for assessment. While the tiny scabs that form as a result of the treatment may look a little scary, they do not reflect the level of discomfort, which is minimal.” Using the Ablase, Schroder also removed a benign lesion from the side of my forehead, by going around the perimeter of the lesion and creating little sunrays to the centre. Following the treatment, she cleaned the area with Wound Care Spray, applied Aloe Vera Gel and thereafter the Plasmart foundation to camouflage the scabs. I was instructed not to pick the scabs under any circumstances. After just one treatment, I could already see a marked difference in my Crow’s feet and looked forward to the final two treatments, each at 12-week intervals. PB Contact Cosmoprof: 011 888-3381 or 082 448 9575

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Lasers, IPL, RF

56

A

bundle of energy The use of lasers, radiofrequency (RF) and light-based technologies in aesthetic procedures continues to grow exponentially, with device manufacturers creating ever more ground-breaking technologies as more and more clinics, salons and spas purchase clinically proven devices.

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ver the next few years, the total market for energybased aesthetic devices, including disposables, is expected to expand by 5.8% per year to over $2 billion, according to research results published by Aethetic Guide December 2018 (featuring research results published by Medical Insight in July 2017). Popular energy-based procedures include body shaping / skin tightening, facial rejuvenation, cellulite reduction, feminine rejuvenation and hair removal. Here are just some of the quality systems on the market.

Global presence In the first half of 2018, Venus Concept achieved the goal of surpassing 10,000 installed devices globally. Its annual treatments stand at 10 million and the brand is present in more than 60 countries. Comments Thyrza Price of Venus Concept SA: “For the diversity of skin types in South Africa, we

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Over the next few years, the total market for energy-based aesthetic devices, including disposables, is expected to expand by 5.8% per year to over $2 billion offer the perfect solution to the industry with technologies that can be applied as standalone solutions, or in combination, to offer safe treatments. “Wherever you find a Venus Concept certified provider and depending on the system being used, you can enjoy Venus Treatments for all major aesthetic concerns across the skin tone spectrum.”

She points out that Venus Concept’s skin and body devices feature (MP)2 technology, which is a combination of multipolar RF (radiofrequency) and magnetic pulse. “This powerful combination has changed how patients experience skin and body lifting and toning treatments. The applicator design, mode of operation and clinical efficacy offer superior outcomes, safe for all skin types. This technology increases and stimulates collagen contraction, blood circulation, nutrient flow and the production of new and additional collagen simultaneously and at multiple depths in a soothing, warm application,” explains Price.



Lasers, IPL, RF

58 Non-ablative Developed for treatments of non-ablative skin resurfacing (including texture, fine lines and wrinkles), stretch marks, acne scars and surgical scars, the Ellipse Frax 1550 is an easy-to-use, fractional non-ablative laser with high clinical efficacy. It provides unparalleled control of thermal effects, thereby reducing the risk of side-effects. The Frax 1550 allows the operator to give advanced treatments faster with limited downtime, and also gives patients greater comfort during treatment. A combination treatment with an SWT® applicator followed by the Frax 1550 laser produces an even better result with less treatments. Because the surface of the skin is left intact, the patient recovers very quickly. Based on advanced, safe and effective technology, Frax 1550 supplements the Ellipse range of applicators, which now consist of two lasers and eight Selective Waveband Technology (SWT®) applicators.

Mono- and bi-polar Available from Radiant Healthcare, the Lavatron is a RF device used to heat up the deep dermal layer. The Lavatron mono-polar RF is used for skin tightening on the body, lymphatic circulation, centimetre loss and cellulite treatment, while the bi-polar radio frequency is used for the

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face for skin tightening and lifting, wrinkle reduction and anti-ageing. Lavatron has an automatic temperature control after reading the patient impedance and electrode impedance.

Effective combo While RF has been used extensively in the aesthetic field for the last 20 years, only recently has it shown huge improvements for skin tightening (i.e. collagen remodeling), reduction of wrinkles as well as adipose tissue, according to Melissa Eksteen of Radiant Healthcare. “When RF is combined with other technologies such as IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), diode laser light, ultrasound, cryolypolysis, etc., it has been shown to have excellent results if a reputable manufacturer is chosen. “For example, Syneron Candela’s elos Technology uses

IPL or diode laser in combination with RF for skin rejuvenation, skin tightening and acne. Darker skin types can now be treated for more applications and more safely than traditional systems,” says Eksteen. The eTwo from Syneron combines the Sublime and the Sublative applications for comprehensive facial rejuvenation. As the Sublative applicator uses only bi-polar RF, it is colour blind and can thus be used on all skin types. The Sublative Fractionated applicator places the heat energy effectively into the upper dermis, where it can produce a significant increase in collagen with minimal epidermal disruption. Using the elos technology combination of infra-red light and bi-polar RF, the Sublime applicator is used to remodel the deep dermal layers of the skin by stimulating new collagen growth. It is indicated for skin tightening, improvement of wrinkles and facial contour, and a smoother skin appearance.

Hands-free

Alma, distributed by Best Lasers, has launched its new handsfree body contouring solution, Accentuate, which delivers visible, lasting results. Says Best Lasers’ Andrew Best: “Adhering to the concept of ‘time is money’, Alma recognises the value of accomplishing more within a limited timeframe, enabling practitioners to provide advanced, effective treatments while


59 Lasers, IPL, RF

improving their clinic’s ROI.” Hands-free, stationary applicators designed for body contouring and skin tightening and incorporating resonant-distributed RF heating, are exclusively used with Alma’s Accent Prime platform. Utilising 40.68 MHz AlmaWave, Accentuate tightens and shapes large areas of the body safely and effectively by delivering energy within the skin. It offers independent left and right side parameters and enables realtime patient temperature monitoring, adding increased control and freedom for practitioners and patients alike. Designed for body contouring and skin tightening, the Accentuate kit is comprised of two hands-free applicators and a complementary treatment mattress. Practitioners can position the applicators on the patient, define the treatment parameters and move on to additional practice engagements. Accentuate can be used on different treatment areas (abdomen, buttocks, thighs, etc.) with separate treatment protocols defined per each applicator. The device provides optimal results when used in a combined protocol with the UltraSpeed applicator. Accentuate distributes UniPolar RFenergy homogenously across the treated area in close proximity to the skin, yet without direct contact, thus ensuring efficacy while maintaining treatment safety. Throughout the treatment an internal cooling fan is continuously operated to ensure patient’s comfort is maintained at all times. Treatment temperature is continuously monitored and stabilised ensuring treatment safety even if the operator is not present. Dr Stefania Enginoli of Studio Medico in Milan adds: “I find the protocol that combines both UltraSpeed and Accentuate leads to the best treatment results for large areas of the body – including the abdomen, thighs and buttocks. In just one hour, my patients benefit from tighter and contoured skin. I am able to treat several patients at once without having to be present personally during the treatment.”

Smart move Ever since the SmartXide Touch (SXT), an extremely versatile Co2 laser, hit the market in Europe few years ago it has created ripples amongst aestheticians and dermatologists, as well as gynaecologists and even dentists. SXT can remove scars from any part of the body, wrinkles, crow’s feet, sagging eyes, neck lines, sun burnt cleavages and even stretch marks that may be caused by post-partum delivery. “There are other fractional Co2 lasers in the market but none can match the technology that

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Lasers, IPL, RF

60

the SXT holds,” says Ali Ghazanfar of Invision. “The smart-pulse is able to resurface the skin with choices of five different pulses, making it possible for the client to get back to work within just five days. A regular fractional Co2 laser can take up to a month for recovery.” Apart from its many gynaecological applications, the SXT’s MonaLisa Touch procedure can be used by aestheticians to treat vaginal laxity and strengthen the muscles. The MonaLisa Touch procedure has treated over more than 30,000 women worldwide.

Women’s intimate health The new BTL ULTRA Femme 360 from BTL Aesthetics is designed to specifically treat the tissue of

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women’s intimate anatomy and provide effective and lasting vaginal rejuvenation. A short, non-invasive treatment for internal and external intimate parts, the ULTRA Femme 360 procedure uses BTL’s groundbreaking Energy Flow Control technology, which ensures uniform heating of targeted tissue. This treatment addresses the physical and hormonal changes of the female genitalia that arise due to ageing, menopause or trauma associated with childbirth, all of which have a profound effect on women’s sexual health and quality of life. Internal therapy requires a revolutionary 360° design, singleuse applicator tip that directs RF energy and ultrasound toward the entire circumference of the vaginal wall simultaneously. Heat generated by the RF and ultrasound energy stimulates blood flow and in turn improves the elasticity and quality of the tissue, as well as its thickening and plumping. A separate tip is used to treat the external genitalia (labia majora, perineum and introitus) and results include improvement in wrinkled structures, blood flow and increased sensitivity.

Pigment and tattoo removal From Lumenis (distributed by Hitech Lasers), the PiQo4™ pigment and tattoo removal system can rid the client of age spots, sunspots and melasma, as well as tattoos. With a large laser spot (ranging from 2 mm to 15 mm), the PiQo4™ allows for an increased area to be targeted, significantly reducing treatment time and allowing for faster results overall. These larger spot sizes allow deeper penetration into all layers of the skin, meaning the pigment is more easily dispersed. PiQo4™ technology reduces the possibility of scarring, blistering and discolouration. Using high energies, PiQo4™ shatters the pigments from light orange to the darkest black and

sweeps them away using the flexibility of four wave actions. Says Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier: “Very short laser pulses are absorbed into the target areas of the skin, causing the conversion of light energy into acoustic waves that shatter the ink / pigment granules in a process that is fast and effective. “PiQo4™ provides up to 10 times more energy for both 1064nm and 532nm (650mJ and 325mJ respectively) wavelengths. The pulses can be set as either Nano or Pico, making them suitable for use with both, for dual pulse treatments. Pico and Nano second pulses are shown by clinical studies to be the optimal method for shattering pigment particles.”

German technology Also used for skin refining, resurfacing, toning and anti-ageing, the Terminator T808 diode laser, distributed by Marica Salon Specialists, has received the International Hair Removal Gold Standard.


 

 

   




Lasers, IPL, RF

62 The Terminator T808 from Beauty Maschine aligned with Dr Baumann Bionome Cosmetics is made in Germany and is designed for use in beauty salons, spas and dermatology practices. Says the Marica team: “We guarantee the highest quality control standards and the most cost effective specs for price value ratio for all our machines. Every machine that we sell is in daily use at Dr Baumann Das Institut. As a result, we have experienced the excellent performance of all the machines ourselves. “The Sapphire Touch cooling system ensures a comfortable experience and increases the energy output by 30-40%. The treatment area (a 12 mm squared area size) allows one to work on a larger area with speed and

efficiency, ensuring less repeat treatments per area.” Theoretical and practical training is offered at Dr Baumann Das Institut by experts who operate the machines on a daily basis.

Diode laser Available from Belladerma, the new MeDioStar NeXT PRO is an advanced 2400W Diode Laser using Class 4 Diodes from Asclepion. A vertical or portable unit, it is safe for all skin types, including tanned skin. Extremely fast, it offers controlled treatments and is extremely effective, with lasting results. The MeDioStar NeXT PRO offers permanent hair removal, skin rejuvenation, acne removal, pigmentation removal and instant vein removal. PB


Medical Aesthetics

63

Combining

INJECTABLE

TREATMENTS

to combat ageing

As time passes, more and more patients are beginning to make use of aesthetic injectables to delay ageing and maintain a youthful, rested appearance, writes Dr Sirlesh Moodley.

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hile the majority of patients are more inclined to resort to conservative rejuvenation methods, an increasing number of doctors are noticing the added benefit of a combination of therapies as a holistic approach to anti-ageing. The ageing process is influenced by intrinsic or genetic factors, as well as extrinsic or lifestyle associated factors. Whilst degradation of collagen and elastin and the quality of the body’s own hyaluronic acid are both genetically encoded, we can all influence our lifestyle to a certain degree by reducing sun exposure and using sun protection to control skin ageing. Main anatomical components visibly involved in the ageing process include the skin, fat, muscle and bone. Due to loss of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, the skin becomes drier, less elastic, less supple and much thinner. The redistribution and shifting of facial fat pads results in the formation of lines and wrinkles. There is also significant loss of facial bone with age, ultimately resulting in thinner bone that does not provide enough support for overlying tissues, leading to sagginess and droopiness.

Ageing on the body

We can all influence our lifestyle to a certain degree by reducing sun exposure and using sun protection to control skin ageing.

Whilst these commonly understood mechanisms of ageing indeed apply to the face, it is important to also recognise that there are other aspects contributing towards ageing elsewhere on the body as well. The same ageing mechanisms apply to the skin and soft tissues of the body – this is particularly noticeable on the hands, neck and décolleté. These areas tend to show age more as patients are generally more concerned about treating aspects of facial ageing as opposed to other areas. Hair thinning and hair loss is also a noticeable factor contributing to an aged appearance. This is in stark contrast to grey hair but rather the appearance of dull, brittle and thinning hair. Another important factor is the appearance of hyperpigmentation as a result of hormonal or ultraviolet exposure. Considering all the above factors, one can note that the approach to anti-ageing is, and should be, a global and holistic one that addresses these concerns in order to assist patients to age gracefully.

Volume loss Hyaluronic acid dermal fillers are the best option to address fat, bone and muscle loss on the face, with >

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64 Medical Aesthetics

elastin and collagen fibres in the dermis. While the actual dyschromia is harmless, it can be a cause of serious self-esteem issues and social withdrawal for patients. Various chemical peelings, depending on the type of skin and pigment being treated, are by far the safest options. However, this in combination with Redermalisation as an injectable treatment offers the added benefit of succinic acid as a tyrosinase inhibitor and the thickening of the dermis dilutes and harmonises pigment.

Hands and neck the added benefit of collagen stimulation. Due to the fact that this variant of filler is resorbed, its continued use can be adapted to each patient and their individual change in facial features. Redermalisation is also an excellent injectable method to create a lifting effect, by combining hyaluronic acid and succinic acid. This restores hydration to the dermis while the succinic acid directly stimulates the Kreb’s cycle, providing more energy to the fibroblasts within the dermis to stimulate the production of more collagen and elastin.

Rhytides With continued facial muscle contraction, as well as volume loss, expression lines and rhytides develop and deepen. Whilst the use of botulinum toxin in particular areas of the face to soften expression lines and also create a subtle lifting effect is beneficial up to a certain age range, continued use can result in muscle atrophy thereby compounding volume loss. The addition of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in the form of Skinboosters, as well as redermalisation, can thereby assist as a more sustainable long term maintenance method. These methods can thicken the dermis, contributing to smoothening of expression lines and wrinkles.

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Hair loss With age, many people experience an increased rate of hair loss and a decreased rate of new hair growth. Melanin production within the hair follicles also reduces, resulting in decreased hair pigment and grey hair. Hair strands also become thinner and smaller due to decreased protein synthesis, ultimately resulting in balding. In females this particularly occurs in the perimenopausal stage due a decline in both oestrogen and progesterone. Whilst hormone replacement is beneficial, this has to be limited to a period of five years to limit dangerous systemic adverse effects. The use of mesotherapy combining a sustained release complex of peptides and hyaluronic acid in to the dermis can be used to stimulate hair growth and blood circulation to the scalp and hair follicles. This can either be done alone or in combination with platelet rich plasma to induce an inflammatory response within the dermis of the scalp to further stimulate the hair follicles and induce hair growth.

Pigmentation The occurrence of pigment disorders are our body’s response to combatting ultraviolet exposure and subsequent DNA damage, as well as damage to

Ageing of the neck is most noticed by platysma bands and volume loss resulting in sagginess of the skin of the neck. The use of botulinum toxin can help soften platysma bands, while Redermalisation and platelet rich plasma used alone, or in combination with thread lifting, can be used to create a lifting effect of the neck. With the advent of increased use of technology, particularly mobile phones, the ‘double chin’ or ‘tech neck’ is becoming more common. This has resulted in the injectable treatment of deoxycholic acid as a means of dissolving fat tissue in the underchin and jowls, contributing to a smoother jawline. The hands can also be rejuvenated with Redermalisation and platelet rich plasma, which will assist with pigmentary disorders on the hands. In summary, whilst individual treatment options are beneficial in many cases, a combination of approaches can provide patients with enhanced results and a long term, sustainable approach to holistic anti-ageing. PB

Dr Sirlesh Moodley is an aesthetic doctor based in Ballito, KZN, with a special interest in pigmentary disorders and hyperpigmentation, including its treatment. docsirlesh@gmail.com


65

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Issue 21

Jul/Aug 2018

Forms on fleek

Extreme nail shapes

Seasonal session

Shutterstock

Spring trends

competitive edge How to excel at competitions


T

he NailFile team is looking forward to two very important and exciting events – the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition and the Nail Technology & Techniques Workshop, both of which run as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show (2 & 3 September, Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand). In the run up to the Professional Beauty Competition, we have included an all-important competition preparation article, with invaluable contributions from award-winning experts. Nail techs planning on participating in the competition would be well advised to read this informative article. To find out more about the Nail Technology & Techniques Workshop, please see our lead news story on page 70. As you will see, two international speakers are on the programme line-up. In the meantime, we are delighted to announce the Top 3 in the NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenge – ‘SteamPunk’. We were gobsmacked at the stunning entries – it’s as if the standard of entries gets better and better with each new challenge. See page 71. We also announce in this issue the Annual NailFile Nail Design Competition with its two categories – Photographic and Tip Box. To see the exciting themes for each category, please see page 83. Shutterstock

Welcome

68

Issue 21

Jul/Aug 201 8

Forms on fleek

Extreme

nail shapes

competitiv e edge Seasonal

How to exc el at com

petitions

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

What’s inside Nail File

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76

79

70

76

82

News

Nail shapes

Salon Focus

72

78

84

Ask the experts

Nail health

Competition preparation

80

87

Product Hub

Top Tech Talk

Stay in the know

Recruiting the right staff for your business

74 Style Savvy

Spring trends

online @ probeauty.co.za

The shape of things to come

Nail Nurture – Part 4

The latest launches

A fine art

It’s competition time!

Marijke De Meyer

s

session

Spring tre

nds


g n i k o o l We are tributors! for dis Are you a passionate nail tech? Are you already or do you want to start training nail techs? Are you looking for a strong international brand to distribute? Are you interested in distributing Magnetic Is your place of business located in: Cape Town, Johannisburg, Pretoria, Durbin, Bloemfontein or any other important city. CONTACT Pepijn Borrèl pepijn.borrel@magneticnaildesign.com Aukje Veltman a.veltman@maneticnaildesign.com Our headoffice +31346350525 Holland/The Netherlands

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News

70

NEWS

Information at your fingertips

Latest nail trends at Professional Beauty JHB

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wo international speakers will present talks at the Nail Technology & Techniques workshop to take place on Monday, 3 September at Gallagher Convention Centre, as part of the annual Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show. International nail expert and celebrity stylist, David Fowler, will be part of an instructive talk presented by Image Cartel, and will discuss the latest developments in the nail industry. Along with Mia Secret, talented international guest nail stylist, Eva Montelongo, is to showcase some of her amazing skills and

techniques and demonstrate how to achieve the latest nail styles. Looking Good LCN will present a revealing talk about nail abnormalities that affect the natural nail and natural nail reconstruction. A talk about the importance of education and what encompasses being successful in a competitive industry will be presented by Sparkle Cosmetics, who will also demonstrate the latest techniques with Polygel. Focusing on natural nail care and therapy, Bio Sculpture will present a talk and demo on how to achieve a safe and effective treatment.

SAAHSP, the Professional Body for the Skin, Body and Nail Care industry, will present a talk about how its aim is to foster the advancement of education and professionalism in the industry and how Continuing Professional Development (CPD) can assist nail techs in their careers. For more information and to book you seat, log on to www. probeauty.co.za. Price for Full Day Workshop: R200 per person (includes light lunch and a certificate of participation). Price per Workshop session: R50.

Scholtz celebrates Bio Sculpture Canada’s 20th birthday Elmien Scholtz, founder of South African brand, Bio Sculpture Gel, recently presented training to the brand’s educators in Canada, simultaneously marking the 20th birthday of Bio Sculpture Canada. Scholtz’ visit showcased the success of Bio Sculpture in that country. The occasion also served to welcome the new owner and CEO of Bio Sculpture Canada, Erica Nieuwenhuis, and honoured her now retired parents, who established and grew this

business for the past 20 years. Some 18 educators, with a wealth of experience and knowledge amongst them, participated in the training. Scholtz presented new methods of application, contributing to the continual growth and development of the Bio Sculpture brand.

Jessica expands SA line Due to the enthusiastic response from the South African market to the recent re-introduction of the Jessica brand in the country, the

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Custom Nail Colour polishes that match Jessica’s GELeration range will now be available. Says distributor, Karen Ellithorne: “The Jessica Custom Nail Colours are iconic – one of the best in class

and trusted by professionals. They are 7-free and formulated to be long lasting, with a smooth finish and extraordinary depth of colour. We will also be introducing the Jessica spring colours.”


Brill triumphs in ‘SteamPunk’ Challenge Maureen Brill has won the third NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenge, themed ‘SteamPunk’. Coming a close second was Leandre Kruger, with Melissa De Wet in third spot. Says competition director, Sonette van Rensburg: “The top three placements were chosen for their interpretation of the ‘SteamPunk’ theme and for incorporating all the elements that make up this stylish, slightly sinnister mix of Victorian design combined with steam-powered machinery, an interesting science fiction genre of a make-believe world filled with imagination. The work of these nail stylists depicted this in every way in their nail design masterpieces – they were intricate, detailed and beautifully put together. “The winner, Maureen Brill, very cleverly included working cogs (see image below) and pieces in her design, using a variety of techniques. Her work was very skilfully thought out and assembled; the cat with the goggles was oustanding and almost came to life. What’s more, Maureen’s step by step presentation was excellent and described her designs and work brilliantly.

“Leandre Kruger’s 3D creations and attention to detail, as well as stunning presentation, got her a close second place, while Melissa De Wet’s work was incredibly detailed, bright and bold, portraying this theme so well in

every aspect.” Van Rensburg notes that NailFile introduced the Photographic Nail Design Challenges at the beginning of the year to get nail professionals into the spirirt of competiting. She continues: “I also kept seeing the most beautiful nail enhancements and designs popping up on Facebook, done by our very own South African nail techs, yet they were not being recognised for their work. I thought that if we did these nail design challenges where nail professionals could sit and explore their creativity and skill in their own time and in their own space, and then recognise and reward them for their expertise, it would encourage them to showcase their talents more. “Surprisingly we have had an incredible response to the challenges. The first was the ‘Pop Art’ Gel Polish challenge with some really fun, colourful and creative entries. Then came the ‘Glam Rock’ challenge, which allowed for a little more nail mediums and embelishments, while ‘SteamPunk’ allowed entrants to explore their creativity and do whatever they wanted to. “All I can say is wow! The

‘SteamPunk’ entries were absolutely incredible, according to all the judges. It was one of the toughest challenges to judge as the effort and creativity that was put in by each and every competitor was absolutely mindblowing,” concludes Van Rensburg. The NailFile ‘SteamPunk’ Photographic Nail Design Challenge was sponsored by Bio Sculpture Gel / Evo.

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Business Trends News

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Business

72

ask

the experts

QUESTION: How do I recruit the right staff for my business? CARMEN DANTU This can be very difficult as a lot of candidates will have great resumés, but are they right for your business? It is extremely important to contact the references listed on the resumés and ensure they are valid. Always keep your business in mind, rather than be swayed by the resumés you receive. Once you have a shortlist of candidates, it is very important that you research resumés

thoroughly to ask as many questions as you can during the interview. One of my favourite questions is: ‘If you could be any part of a car, which part would it be?’ This can tell you a lot about a person, such as – is she a leader or a follower? Make the candidate feel comfortable and see if they are able to converse properly. During the second interview make the candidate perform a practical demonstration, because at the end

of the day they will be providing a service for your business and you want only the best. Ask yourself: What does my business really need? Does this candidate fulfill all the needs of my business?

don’t employ just one type of personality or you may end up with too many leaders and not enough followers. It is advisable to conduct two or three interviews with promising candidates to ensure you select the best one. You can also contact a reputable recruitment agency, but be very specific about your requirements. The agency pre-interviews the candidates and sends only those that meet your specifications. Looking at the Facebook or Instagram profile of an individual can show you how a person views the world, although you shouldn’t make your decision

based on solely on this. It is important to get the candidate to do a set of nails in the interview to see what she is like during a treatment procedure, how she handles pressure, whether she is professional and to judge the quality of her workmanship.

Carmen Dantu is the principal at the Beauty Therapy Institute @ Sorbet Rivonia.

YVETTE NEL According to Wikipedia, the Law of Attraction is the belief that by focusing on positive or negative thoughts, people can bring either positive or negative experiences into their life. This also applies to attracting people. Only select positive, eager and energised staff that can feed off each other’s positivity. It may be hard to evaluate a particular candidate by merely looking at a CV, or meeting them in an interview for the very first time. Therefore, you may want to consider conducting a personality test, which could indicate whether the candidate will fit in. It can show many things, such as leadership potential. However,

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Yvette Nel is a diverse nail, health and beauty influencer with 14 years of experience in nail/beauty salons, education, marketing, retail and distribution. Nel is the founder of Trend Mi Life.


SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Employing the right staff can make a big difference to your business. Most salons are looking for qualified people who have experience, require minimal training and can just get on with the job. However, finding the perfect candidate is not always easy and even if they are close to perfect, you will still need to invest in their growth and make sure you train and groom them into the required position. There are various different ways in which to recruit staff: through employment agencies that specialise in recruiting people for the beauty industry; beauty institutes; distributors; social media; advertising; and referrals. But there will always be the concern that you just don’t know what you’re going to get. Applicants should produce a CV with all the necessary information, proof of qualifications, work experience, certificates, and possibly testimonials. However, having all the correct paper work does not automatically mean that you have found the right person. Always follow a very rigorous employment process. Don’t just base your decision on a CV and qualifications, as what looks great on paper might not be great in practice. Ask the right questions, follow up on referrals and testimonials, do the necessary checks and see whether qualifications and certificates are from a reputable training institute. Lastly, conduct an all-encompassing trade test and even get them to work in your establishment to see if they will work out or not.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.

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BusinessBusiness Trends

73

Remove the protection sticker from the image plate • Choose the desired image and apply the MoYou special nail varnish • Use the MoYou scraper to remove excess, using a 45° angle • Roll the MoYou stamp to pick up the image (Tip: Do not use force when stamping and do not roll more than once) • Roll stamp on nail thoroughly from one side to the other • Apply MoYou Top Coat for longer lasting results. Please note that we have relocated our office to: 25 Hampton Court Road, Gallo Manor Our new office number is 011 656 4474 Email info@moyou.co.za website: www.moyou.co.za


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Spring trends With the change of seasons on the horizon, it’s time to expand your definition of the perfect spring nail colours, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

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lthough hands and feet are still very much tucked away in warm winter woolies, spring is imminent with our tips and toes just waiting to emerge and show off a realm of colours and trends that are beyond our expectations. Spring nail trends are usually so predictable with a palette of anticipated pastels, but surprise, surprise – the Spring 2018 Season brings with it a revelation of the most multi-faceted untypical shades, which make up a colour sanctuary of composite and unprecedented combinations. Exploding with a burst of the brightest, most uplifting, feel good shades, they intensify the opportunity for vibrant expressiveness that reflect optimism, confidence, and vitality. There are some really stand out shades, like cheerful canary yellow, undeniably big on the nail scene, along with cheeky, vibrant cherry red and other beautiful, brilliantlly bright colours. With Ultra Violet featuring as the Pantone shade, some of the hues are very much centered around this transcendent, gorgeous mystical shade, with varying shades of pinks and purples that feature throughout every season this year. The shades of sorbet ice cream are always a delectable treat, in subdued typical flavours of lime,

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bubblegum, strawberry and vanilla. If these are a little ordinary for your liking, you will be somewhat pleased to know that deeper, more formidable shades of sorbet ice cream made their debut on the catwalks, in audacious shades that absolutely lit up the runway. If this optimistic bright display of colours is not for the passive, non-attention seeking individual, then classic nudes, barely there beige and passive pastels are still present and have their place. Every season we see new trends emerging, from shapes and length to colour and design. Nonetheless, if you’re looking to have a little more fun with your tips and toes, this is most definitely the season for some lively colour experimentation with limitless possibilities to combine, mix, create and play.

Nail design There is a huge focus on nail design, which has proved to be back in a big way lately, not just for the season but also for good I’m sure. With plenty of inspiration to be had, there is a twist on looks from years gone by – flower power may be thing of the past but is making a reappearance in fresh but fabulous techniques that are sure to draw attention.

Cuticle focus There is also quite a lot of emphasis on design work

centering on the cuticle area, with geometric shapes and even fruity designs and rhinestones proving to be popular. However, should you opt for one of these, make sure those cuticles are in tip top shape with a meticulous manicure. Reverse moons and attention to the free edges are also in. Even colour blocking, negative space and graffiti designs have a place, with a new enthusing edge to them. Newer trends, such as gilded dry brushing and the melted manicure, also look super classy, while dots and stripes are being used in the most creative and unique ways.

Shapes When it comes to length and shape, anything goes: from practical short and square, to medium classic lengths in elegant tapered square, ballerina or almond shapes, and even more extreme talonlike sensational stilettos. So, bid farewell to winter and start getting excited about the promise of spring and the mind-blowing nail shades and trends it will bring. There is no excuse not to be sporting the perfect Instagramworthy tips and toes!


Business StyleTrends Savvy

75

Free Spirit

Lavender Lush

Nicola

Ruffle Those Feathers

Peony

Glam Light

All The Queen’s Bling

Tag Me

Go Time Resort Group

Magnetic Kick Ass Coral

Magnetic You Betta Pink

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Business Nail Shapes Trends

76

The

Shape of nails to come

Sonette van Rensburg delves deep into the world of extreme nail shapes.

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ften clients walk into your salon, whip out their phones and show you a nail pic from Facebook or Instagram and, very confidently, ask you to replicate it. As a professional nail technician you can’t be caught out not being able to assist them. You will have to know exactly what’s on trend when it comes to nail shapes and styles and what’s not, and, most importantly, how to achieve them. Gone are the days when the client had a simple mani done and was asked whether the nails should be shaped modestly square, typically round or pleasantly oval. When it came to enhancements, clients didn’t have much say; generally they were shaped

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classically square and were pretty thick at that, somewhat like doorstoppers. How things have changed! Clients are now totally spoilt for choice with an assortment of different basic nail shapes to choose from and a variety of adaptions of these. While the typical square, round and oval nail shapes are more practical on shorter natural nails,

they are still timeless and ever present. Amongst these are other shapes, like the more feminine, square oval (or squoval) and tapered squoval, which originated from a combination of square and oval. This is perfect for medium length nails, while the elegant almond nail shape is more suited to longer nails. Any of these can be achieved with either natural nails or nail enhancements.

Alternatives Other shapes, mostly performed on nail enhancements, now include stiletto, ballerina, coffin, lipstick and edge, with plenty variations of each. Most definitely not boring and certainly dramatic is the stiletto shape, along with the Russian almond, very similar to the stiletto but with a bit of a twist, its very pointy tip being ever so slightly rounded.

Mistletoe by Tracey Lee

Nails by Tracey Lee, Pics by Henny Sep


Butterfly by Tracey Lee Classed as highly fashionable and stylish, these shapes grew exceedingly popular in Russia and Europe and became a huge sensation among celebrities, especially when the trend towards nail enhancements flourished. Both stiletto and almond shapes elongate the fingers and the nail beds, particularly when the nail bed is extended way beyond the smile line in a cover or custom colour and the free edge in another. There are some absolutely stunning enhancements in a variety of options being created this way, and proving to be very current on the nail scene. Other forms of the stiletto but maybe not known by everyone, are the mountain peak, arrowhead and cats’s nails, which are a shorter version of stiletto and not quite as popular as the longer styles.

Coffins and ballerinas Also proving to be very popular and even more on trend is the coffin or ballerina shape, which is being requested more regularly than other shapes. The different names for this shape confuse everyone as to precisely what the shape actually is, with a number of different interpretations. It’s actually a combination of a tapered square and almond, without the point and can be either edgier or softer. Shapes, especially nail shapes, are typically mirrored from an item or something we see, leaving them open to interpretation according to the client’s choice. When you think of the shape of an actual coffin, it’s very edgy and quite dramatic with straight edges.

Business Nail Shapes Trends

77 A ballerina’s slipper is quite the opposite, tapering towards the point with a softer, square oval free edge. In addition, there are some totally crazy shapes out there, like the flare and the bubble nails, including the layered nail, made up of layer upon layer of nail products and most probably not to everyone’s taste. Who knows what’s next!

Tracey Lee’s perspective Individual interpretations are exactly how new shapes and styles come to light. International nail artist, expert and educator, Tracey Lee, is one of the most talented nail stylists that I know who does exactly this and has taken nail shapes to the next level. Read what she has to say below: Says Lee: “What a wonderful industry we work in. It gives us the opportunity to be outrageously creative on a daily basis while simultaneously paying our bills. The last couple of years have seen so much development in the shape of nails, as we discovered that the canvas was not only limited to the top of the nail, but that there are endless opportunities below the lower arch and even under the nail. Imagine taking your stiletto nail and extending the lower arches into a butterfly wing, or a bat wing, or a leaf and ‘voila!’ – a new shape has been discovered. “During my CYOES (Create Your Own Extreme Shape) class, we do just that. We commence with the theory of form placement, product placement, shaping and finishing (essential for ALL shapes) and then the class is given the creative freedom to create a shape of their own design. The nail professionals have come up with text, a gun, a filigree design and so much more. The only limitation is your imagination. “Many nail professionals are reluctant to try these extreme shapes as they are not practical for salon clients. That is true, however they offer a completely different benefit. Learning to place, shape and finish these

Tracey Lee extreme designs teaches nail professionals the optimal product control and understanding of product properties. It is far easier to shape a salon almond nail than an extreme butterfly, so it gives the nail professional a new look at their work. “These extreme shapes also give nail professionals the edge during competitions, offering judges new and exciting eye candy in Photographic Competitions and Fantasy Competitions, as well as offering the nail professional the largest possible canvas on which to display their designs. “There is also a definite social media element to extreme shapes – both positive and negative unfortunately. If you manage to sift through all the unwarranted feedback about how you perform your bodily functions with these extreme shapes and get to see the appreciation from your fellow nail professionals, your profile will be boosted and, with the right tagging, may often be shared internationally. “I can’t wait to see what you come up with!” Tracey Lee offers online classes for extreme shapes and is available in a recorded version at https:// mylably.com/class/sculpting-andshaping-extreme-nail-shapes/ Instagram: @traceyleenails FB: TraceyLeeNails

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Business Nail Trends Health

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Nail Nurture – Part 4:

Improper application OF NAIL ENHANCEMENTS AND COATINGS The aim of the Nail Nurture series is to educate nail professionals and to ensure that we continuously uplift the standards of our industry through imparting the correct information, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

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isinformation is a big issue in our industry, with all manner of stories circulating, such as UV lamps cause cancer, nail enhancements damage your nails forever, gel polish makes your nails thin, and the list goes on. It’s all a load of nonsense if the correct procedures are followed professionally. The only thing that damages the natural nails is improper practice during the application and removal of nail enhancements and coatings, and the incorrect use of nail products. Most of the time, the damage caused to the natural nails due to improper application of nail coatings and enhancements happens during the preparation procedure of the natural nail prior to application. This often results in the thinning of the nail plate and sometimes severe and irreparable damage to the nail bed, and even the nail matrix.

Preventative measures Most of us are taught that proper preparation of the nail plate is key to ensure an effective application, well so is a healthy one. If there isn’t a strong foundation to begin with, it’s not going to hold onto anything. During the preparation procedure, most supplier’s protocols require you to remove the shine or matify the nail plate and then to cleanse and temporarily dehydrate it so that the product adheres properly. However, this is where it often goes wrong and when most of the damage occurs. Although

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the healthy nail plate is made up of a hundred or more layers of thousands of little nail cells, it actually doesn’t take much to damage it. The first and most concerning issue is the use of heavy grit files and aggressive filing techniques, which can quickly wear away the surface of the nail plate by filing away too many layers, especially when this is done continuously with every application. At the hands of a careless or untrained nail technician, the nail plate can be filed away in no time and, if you have a client with thin, weak nails, then it’s easy to file right into their nail beds to the point where they bleed. Thin, damaged nail plates will not hold enhancements and coatings very well at all and may break and lift a lot easier, causing even more damage. They are also more susceptible to infections. Even though the nail plate itself is non-living and grows out with a new nail taking its place, severe damage to the nail bed and matrix (which is made up of living cells) can sometimes be permanent, especially if infection sets in. When the area eventually does recover it will always be weak and sensitive. So, when performing this step and filing the nail plate, there is no need to etch and file the nail into oblivion. Make sure you use a soft or high grit file or buffer, such as a 240 grit and upwards, and light feather touch techniques, working in the direction of the nail growth only so as not to not tear the nail plate layers. Lower grit files create deeper scratches, along with using too much downward pressure

while filing. This increases nail thinning and weakening. The most important thing to remember is not to cause any damage whatsoever.

Overuse of products Another problem that affects the nail plate during application is the overuse and misuse of nail products, such as nail dehydrators and primers. The nail plate is made up of many polymer chains consisting of protein, crystalline as well as oil and moisture loving channels to keep the nail plate in balance to retain its strength and flexibility or toughness. Incorrect and prolonged (or repeated) exposure of chemicals can compromise this balance, dehydrating the nails to such an extent that they loose their toughness, causing them to break and crack easily. The best way to keep nails tough is to keep their strength and flexibility in balance, by being vigilant when using nail products and chemicals. Avoid using primers unnecessarily and soaking nails too frequently in acetone and even water. Balance can be restored to the nails by recommending that your client follow daily home care and treatment by using a good quality nail and cuticle oil to rehydrate the nail plate, to improve and maintain its health and toughness. Remember that safe working practices are vitally important and have to be adopted and become part of your regular and daily routine in the salon environment.


Business Nail Trends Health

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80 Business In the Market Trends

Product

HUB

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Royal treat Morgan Taylor’s Royal Temptations Spring 2018 Collection is inspired by the lavish life of Marie Antoinette and includes seven delicious shades, including opulent pastels of sea foam green, teal, purple, pink and coral. Over-the-Top Pop is a special effect glitter. All glamorous shades in the collection are available in matching Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish.

011 447 0659

Marvellous medley

Magnetic PowerGel is suitable for every type of natural nail and feels like acrylics but without the time pressure because it cures like gel in LED or UV. With PowerGel the nail tech can create every nail shape they desire, from a natural nail overlay to the most extreme shape. It is available in seven different shades.

Evo Medley by Bio Sculpture is inspired by the uplifting, colourful and joyous 1980s power creations flooding the catwalks. This happy medley of over the top textures, crayon colours and sugared almond pastels includes Bella (powder pink with an earthy undertone); Penny (neon coral pink); Lydia (speckled royal violet) and Chevon (glistering silver sequin colour).

+31 (0) 356 350 525

0861 246 435

Power play

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Scintilating neons LCN Neon colours are better than ever and 100 % conformed with the European Cosmetics Regulation. Featuring German technology, the neons are radiant, cool and sexy and will not discolour if sealed with LCN high Shine Sealer. The products are not tested on animals.

Business In the market Trends

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010 593 3293

Going nude

Tidy tools

Young Nails’ Cover Nude Collection is self-levelling with medium viscosity and flawless consistency in a variety of nude shades. These are: Cover Beige (beige); Cover Rosebud (subtle pink); Cover Earth (earthy brown); Cover Taupe (taupe with grey and a tinge of brown); and Cover Nude (subtle nude).

Milk Solutions has launched a dual-function implement holder designed with two compartments: one side to store the sterilising agent with clean implements, and the other to store used implements. This beautifully designed holder clearly illustrates the salon’s commitment to hygiene and can be displayed near the treatment station accordingly.

011 393 2791

011 454 8119

Can nail fungal treatment alone, change THIS to THIS

Yes, BUT only if the damaged nail will regrow! And for this to happen, favourable nail bed condi ons need to exist.

?

“The ideal conditions created by Fix-4-Nails® under the nail is the secret of its success in ‘restoring by regrowth’ of loose and fungal-damaged nails,”

The claim made by Fix-4-Nails® is that it instantly changes the under-nail condi ons in loose and or fungal-damaged nails to that required for regrowth of healthy nails and unsuitable for fungi. An an fungal treatment o�en results in effec vely eradica ng the fungus, but the damage it caused to the nail remains very much visible and unsightly; and o�en remains so indefinitely. This is so because the growing nail will simply overshoots the dry nail bed caused by the fungus. If this, (the cavity formed under the separated nail plate), is not specifically addressed, as happens with Fix-4-Nails®, this cavity, o�en being hot and humid, is the ideal habitat for a fungal infec on. Regrowth of nails take from 3 to 4 months and a badly damaged or a big toenail can take up to 2 years, which may very well be the reason for believing that fungal infec ons are very difficult to cure; and logic says that in that me repe ve infec ons is quite possible. This is why loose and/or fungal-damaged nails requires Fix-4-Nails®

www.fix-4-nails.co.za

info@fix-4-nails.co.za

Tel: 0861 999 907

Fix-4-Nails


Business SalonTrends Focus

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art A fine

Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to Kelly Chang, the owner of Ma Chèrie Nails, about how nail art is the defining factor that differentiates this Johannesburg salon in a cluttered market.

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erself a highly skilled nail artist, Kelly Chang maintains that her team’s unique nail art designs, coupled with a huge collection of colours and nail accessories, make Ma Chèrie stand out. “Eighty-percent of our clients regularly request nail art. I believe that our products, careful preparation and detailed application of gel last much longer than the majority of other salons,” says Chang, who received her nail training and licence in Taiwan. Chang’s strong focus on nail art comes as no surprise when you learn that after completing her BA degree at university, she found that art-related jobs in South Africa were very scarce. “I worked as an admin and personal assistant in the corporate environment for a short while but hated every second of it because I was craving to do something that involved art,” she explains. “Then I realised that South Africa

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had a shortage of nail artists so I decided to go for it.” Chang currently has two other nail techs working in the salon and is on the point of adding a third (and possibly a fourth) nail tech in the near future.

accept my application as they first rejected it due to them misunderstanding what exactly I wanted to do there. The centre is perfect for my business and is small but friendly. “In decorating the salon I opted for a classy look with city chic vibes – an elegant touch with a clean finish. We have four manicure stations and three pedicure stations.”

Word of mouth

Humble beginnings Chang began her business in 2014 by renting a small space at a hair salon in Bryanston. She continues: “In early 2017 I decided to open my own salon and was desperate to find a suitable location to grow my business. However, most of shopping centres in the nearby area already had a franchised nail salon and wouldn’t allow any competition. I wanted to stay in the area as much as possible to accommodate my existing clients and then stumbled across Posthouse Link Posthouse Link Centre on Main Road by luck, which was just down the road. I was extremely fortunate to be able to persuade the centre to

Ma Chèrie Nails is fully booked but Chang admits she is bad at marketing her business. “Word of mouth is our biggest source of marketing, other than that it’s our Facebook page and Instagram. “I’m very fortunate to have slowly gained a following from people who want to see our latest work and designs. Up until now I haven’t really felt the need for a website but will consider creating one as my business grows, maybe when I get my second store,” concludes Chang.


Showcase Nail Design Competition Nail stylists are invited to enter the Annual NailFile Showcase Nail Design Competition, comprising the Photographic & Tip Box categories.

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ntries for the Annual NailFile Showcase Nail Design Competition must be submitted by the 27th August 2018. The Top Three in each category (Photographic & Tip Box) will be

awarded their prizes on the 2nd of September, along with all the other Nail & Make-up competition categories being held in conjunction with the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Exhibition at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

In addition, the Top Three in each category of the Showcase Nail Design Competition will also be featured in the post-show issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine.

Photographic Nail Art Competition - Capture your artistic skills in the form of a photograph. The nail stylist must create a beautiful set of nails done with any style or type of nail design and send in a professional photo of their work to be judged. The theme is “A WRINKLE IN TIME” from the latest Disney movie release. This is an extraordinary imaginary theme, allowing the nail stylist complete artistic freedom. The nail stylist must create an artistic set of nails done with any style or type of nail design, with the chosen theme carrying through the entire photograph and presentation. The contestant must send in an actual professional, high-res photo of their work to be judged, presented in a frame, mounted or in any artistic way the nail stylist interprets the set given theme. A step-by-step presentation of how the design was achieved, what products were used and your story or interpretation of the theme must be provided along with your entry. This category is sponsored by LCN.

Tip Box Nail Art Competition – Explore your creativity and interpret this exciting fantasy theme “FANTASTIC BEASTS” into Tip Box Nail Design. This most phenomenal series of movies and now the new release with incredible characters, should inspire you to create the most amazing display of the most fantastical and creative Nail Art. The nail stylist’s entry and artwork is to be designed and created on nail tips and placed in a transparent box frame or display case, which allows the competitors’ work to be seen. The display case or box dΩoes not have to be a typical display box, this is where you can think out of the box and use anything that will showcase your work creatively and effectively. For inspiration do some research about the themes and also go along and see the movies, they are really fantastic and will definitely assist you with some great inspiring ideas for you to create some amazing works of art. All entries must be couriered or delivered to the offices of T.E. Trade Events (t/a Professional Beauty): 1st Floor ICE SITE Building, 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg, by no later than the 27th August 2018. Entries must be addressed to: Professional Beauty Showcase Nail Art Competition 2018. • Competitors may submit as many entries as they like – the entry fee is R100 per entry. • To see the full list of Rules & Regulations for each category of the NailFile Showcase Nail Design Competition, and to access the competition entry forms, log on to www.probeauty.co.za • For more information please contact the Competition Director, Sonette van Rensburg, on 076 585 4191 or email: sonettevr@gmail.com or nailfile@probeauty.co.za

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Nail Competition

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Competition Business Preparation Trends

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t

It’s

compe ition ime!

In the run-up to the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition, which takes place on Sunday, 2 September at Gallagher Convention Centre as part of Professional Beauty Johannesburg, Sonette van Rensburg and experts provide valuable advice on how nail techs can compete at their best.

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he Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition has been running succesfully for the past 13 years and has grown from strength to strength, with more and more competitors competing every year. This year, new and exciting categories have been introduced to keep up to date with what is happening in the industry and to suit everyone’s skill level and expertise. We have also partnered with SAAHSP, the Professional Body for the Skin, Body and Nail Care Industry, to bring added value to the competitions, with a strong focus on education. This means that you can earn CPD points towards your continued professional development when you enter.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty’s nail competitions have really put nail professionals to the test and have uplifted our industry in so many ways. Not only have they helped to create succesful nail professionals, but they have also grown and strengthened our industry. It was such an achievment to see the phenomenal turnout we had last year, with several nail techs competing in the sculpting categories. In the past this was usually the category with the least entries, while the tip overlay category has always attracted plenty of competitors.

Nail design With nail design currently a hot trend, we have a big focus on the nail design categories this year. The Novice or Student category allows entrants to compete against their peers and get used

to competing. The Student category is sponsored by ITEC, the accreditation body for the nail and beauty industry, with some fantastic cash prizes towards furthering the careers of aspiring nail professionals. The Masters Challenge is a category which has been introduced for educators and previous competition winners, giving them the opportunity to compete against others at the same advanced skill level. Each year this category challenges you to greater heights and allows you to explore and experiment with new skills and techniques. Winners and placements in this category will win cash prizes, an online training session on extreme shapes with international expert, Tracey Lee, and a free, one-year SAAHSP membership.


What to expect at the competition There is more to competing than just thinking you’re good enough or trying to prove you’re better than someone else. No matter how good you are, there is still a whole combination of factors to be taken into consideration. There have been many nail professionals I have seen compete year after year and not win at first, and eventually you see them being placed third

Maureen Brill Everyone has to start somewhere, so be humble enough to learn from other professionals in the industry. One of those incredibly determined nail professionals who I have seen grow unbelievably over the years is Maureen Brill, winner of the Professional Beauty 2017 Masters Scultping challenge and recently, winner of the NailFile Photgraphic Nail Design ‘SteamPunk’ Challenge. Says Brill: “Make sure you read the competition rules and

Tracey Owgan Another well known and exceptionally succesfull, talented nail professional is Tracey Owgan, who has more than 15 years of experience and numerous competition titles behind her name, both locally and internationally. Owgan, who has worked alongside top international and well-known nail experts, has judged for the Professional Beauty competitions and is passionate about education and teaching

and then second, and then first. Some even go on to compete internationally, leading to a very succesful career. When you decide to compete, do it for the right reasons. Competing is about furthering yourself to grow, develop and improve your skills on an ongoing basis. The succes in competing is not only in winning, but in what you learn and take from it. The best advice I can give to any

competing nail tech who wants to achieve a wining set is to make sure that you pay attention to perfecting each and every criteria and detail, no matter the category. Compete against yourself and don’t be afraid to take your capabilities to the limit. I also highly recommend Vicki Peters’ book, ‘The Competitive Edge’. This is a great investment for anyone serious about their profession and competing.

regulations over and over, and if you have any questions, ask before the competition day. Have the ability to adapt to a different environment as everything is out of your comfort zone. Do not be discouraged; it can be stressful and nerve wrecking at times, but remember, the other competitors are going through exactly the same emotions.” Brill advises that you pack everything you might need for the competition and a little extra, and ensure you and your model have a good breakfast. She continues: “It is of the utmost importance that you pick the right model, someone who cares for her hands as well as herself. She will be in your photos so she must be neat, presentable, well dressed, made up etc. I always take a headache tablet with just in case too. “Competing is the most extreme feeling, the rush, the flush in your face, the overwhelming excitement when everything comes together. The greatest trials bring the biggest victories. Remember that we are all unique; everyone

brings a different style to the competitions. Embrace your fellow competitors, have integrity and build a good raport with other brand representatives, we learn so much from each other. “Have a support system to go with you (my husband is my biggest supporter) and take someone with who will be your driver as you do not want the stress of the traffic to affect the stability of your hands. Most of all, enjoy every second of it,” concludes Brill.

nail prosfessionals to excel in their chosen field. She is one of the most experienced competitors to learn from and a true mentor when it comes to competing, knowing exactly what is expected of you. Owgan knows what you can expect and what the judges are looking for, especially when it comes to nail design. She believes you should compete for the experience and have fun in the process, while simultaneously improving your skills. Winning is an added bonus.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Competition Nail Business Competition Preparation Trends

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Competition Business Preparation Trends

86 Top tips from international expert, educator and competition winner, Tracey Lee • Consistency is the key! Smile lines do not necessarily have to be deep, it’s about making sure they are exactly the same throughout all 10 nails. Use your technique in the salon too, not just for competition training. This way it becomes a habit and will help increase your speed. Repetition creates muscle memory. • Know your products – familiarise yourself with your product and know how it reacts in all scenarios and conditions, and how to adjust your way of working to accommodate that. Never change your product leading up to a competition. • Practising is the key. Practise often on a model; however in the absence of a model, practise sculpting on c-curve sticks with forms on them. It’s not the same but still allows you to perform the same application techniques. Set up your workstation exactly the same each time you practice, to speed up each movement. All these extra seconds add up in a competition. • Timing – Find the optimal amount of time necessary for each step. Once you find this optimal timing, write it down and use this as a guideline for further practice. Nail Design • Theme – research the theme thoroughly and try not to go with the obvious. Example: Theme – ‘Neverland’ – often Peter Pan comes to mind, and fairies, but this could also mean Michael Jackson or a creation from Salvador Dali. Don’t take the easy road, but one that is going to inspire you the most and stand out in the eyes of the judges. It needs to be something

really mind-blowing to get the wow factor. • Experiment – take some time to play around with the systems you work with and find out what else you can create with it. Gel polish can be applied to the back of a form paper, cured and then cut into pieces to create the most delicate ribbon. • Create an effect – adding additional elements to your creation adds an element of surprise. E.g. a drawer that opens, a lamp with a real light, a chair that turns. Surprise the judges by giving them that something extra. Photographic • Find your tribe. Research various photographers and make-up artists when choosing a team to work towards what you have in mind. A great team becomes your sounding board and give them direction in their areas of expertise to make your image even more amazing. • Models. A great model is as important for a photographic competition as in a live one. When including a face in your image, ensure that you’ve seen several photos of your chosen model. Does she have ‘the look’

you want to achieve, or is she just a traditional beauty. The model doesn’t need to be pretty, especially when you are creating a more dramatic image. Ensure they are comfortable focusing on the look and hand poses at the same time. I recommend getting your model to sign a model release prior to the competition, this protects you, the model and the competition. It’s a document signed by the model granting permission to publish the image.

For further informaton about the Annual Professional Beauty Nail Competition, rules and regulations go to www.probeauty.co.za

online @ probeauty.co.za


Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to Marijke De Meyer of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort, about her path from the IT world to senior nail technician. I believe that before joining Plush Nails & Beauty in September 2014, you were in a line of work that was not related to the beauty industry at all? Yes, I was indeed. I studied at the University of the Free State to be a Mathematics and Accounting teacher, and ended up as an End User Computing and Application Technical Skills Educator. After working in the IT industry for a little over four years and advancing until I received my Microsoft Masters Certification in End User Computing, I found that this was not where my true passion lay.

What made you suddenly want to get into nails? When I became a mom, I started to realise that life is short and that we should do what we truly enjoy. For me, this has always been to make things beautiful and to work with people. My husband paid for me to do a nail course, mainly so I could do my own nails, but then it became more of a hobby and not long after, all that I wanted to do.

Please describe your career journey at Plush Nails & Beauty.

Why did you decide on Bio Sculpture Gel for your training?

I love it when clients walk in with the most weird and wonderful ideas and then walk out with a smile on their faces because I could accomplish what they had in mind.

During my student days, I had a very good nail technician and she did the most amazing things with my nails. They were always beautiful, arty and so healthy and when I moved away from the Free State, I really struggled to find someone as good as her. I tried many inferior products that left my nails damaged and never lasted as well as Bio Sculpture, so when I decided to do the training I knew that there was no other brand for me. It is so versatile and for me as a technician, a dream to use. I also know that my clients are getting the best treatment on the market and that their nails will remain in a healthy condition, while simultaneously looking good.

I have grown so much over the past four years, both personally and professionally. During this time I have learned to deal with all manner of different (and sometimes difficult) situations, and to manage myself and my life so much better; to never let my temper get the better of me and never let people walk all over me. Professionally, I have grown to include lash enhancing treatments and microblading, as well as training to the services I provide.

online @ probeauty.co.za

Business Trends Q&A

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Business Trends Q&A

88 What do you most love about your job?

she wanted this on her nails. I remember being so nervous that I felt ill, but when I finished I felt like I had conquered the world! That was the point in my career that I realised that I could do anything if I just put my mind to it.

The challenge that every day brings! I love it when clients walk in with the most weird and wonderful ideas and then walk out with a smile on their faces because I could accomplish what they had in mind. The pure satisfaction of knowing I made a difference in that client’s life, no matter how small.

Given that Plush is booked out months in advance, how many clients do you have? I personally have about 100 clients.

What is your customer service policy?

What do your clients most commonly request in terms of nail art? Glitter nail art seems to be timeless, but ombre is highly in demand at the moment. I do a lot of hand painted designs which are custom to every set as well. We go through cycles when nail art is very in demand and then not, but it’s not necessarily bound to a specific day or time. Generally though, we do more nail art in the summer than in winter, as most clients tend to be more reserved during the cold weather.

Please describe the nail art that you are most proud of.

My goal is to have clients leave the salon feeling good about themselves, so whether I achieve this by doing my job, or just offering a sympathetic ear, a cup of coffee, or just a shoulder to cry on, that is what I try to achieve.

It was a hand painted character of Daffy Duck. I had only been working for the salon for about six months and my client came in with a picture of Daffy Duck and said

As a married lady and mother of two young children, how do you manage to fit in a full-time job as a nail tech with family life? I must admit some days are hard, but most of the time the two go well together. My job teaches me the discipline and structure I use to manage my time at home, and my family teaches me the compassion and understanding to work with my clients. Time management is very important.

What drives you in your career? I am a very ambitious person and have always strived to be the best at what I take on, whether it is at home or at work. And I strive to teach my kids that if you take something on, you do your best no matter how difficult or what comes your way. That drives me to grow and learn as I go along.

What advice would you give to someone wanting to embark on a career in nails? Be yourself. Be Patient. Be Persistent.

online @ probeauty.co.za


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