May/Jun 2018
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ARID
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incorporating
controlling FACTOR
How EQ can help run your business
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In this issue... Regulars
Business
Software
5 Industry news
12 Ask the experts
28 Right on target
Local and international news
All your questions answered
43 Crowning glory
17 Insider
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
51 In the market
All the latest launches
Tracking the industry with stats
18 Setting goals to boost business
Planning for business health and growth
Spa Focus 20 Revenue management unpacked
Maximising your spa to the full
Case study: Sorbet
31 Get with the (software) programme!
Software management solutions for spas and salons
Special Features 35 Treatment Review
There will be blood
37 Treatment Review
The pollution factor
38 Moist is the word
Treating winter skin
44 Product Focus
Male grooming products
46 Out with the old, in with the new
Chemical peeling
Medical Aesthetics 24 Paradise and the spa
28
Hilltop Spa at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
48 Beyond the basics
Beauty beyond skin types
26 Spa consultation under the spotlight
GWI Consulting Data Survey findings online @ probeauty.co.za
Welcome
2
A
s our lead news story in this issue shows, the beauty industry, like all industries in South Africa, has been badly affected by the recent hikes in the petrol price, as well the increase in VAT from 14% to 15%. Product and treatment prices have had to go up in order to accommodate these unwelcome changes. However, tough though the current times are, it’s good to remember that adversity often inspires innovation and our South African salon owners have proved time and time again that they have staying power and that they are full of inventive ideas in terms of attracting clients. In another news story we report on the growing, formerly niche market for male grooming. We also run an important article on revenue generation in this issue, where we give salons and spas valuable ideas on how to utilise their facilities, retail stock, special offers and bookings in low demand times to maximum advantage. While still on the subject of revenue generation, our winter skin and chemical peeling features highlight important products and treatments that all salons and spas should be offering clients in the winter months. No-one escapes the ravages that the cold, dry winter air wreaks on our skin, and what better way to kickstart the skin than controlled chemical peels? Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA
May/Jun 2018
www.probeauty.co.za
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smart moves Spa & salon software
ARID
complexion Treating winter skin
controlling FACTOR
How EQ can help run your business
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SALON SPECIFICS IS
CELEBRATING 20 YEARS WITH A LIMITED EDITION OF
CHAMPAGNE SHIMMER WAXES
THE PREFERRED CHOICE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY THERAPIST To thank you for your support over the years, we’re giving away limited edition wax samples, as well as an anniversary hamper to the value of R2000.
Join us in
Simply email salonspecifics@leechem.co.za for your free
and you stand
the hamper.
celebrating a chance to
WIN
sample, and an automatic entry into the draw for
CELEBRATING
20 YEARS
Lucky winner will be contacted directly, and announced on our Facebook page. T&C’s apply.
SALON SPECIFICS BY LEE-CHEM LABORATORIES | PERSONAL CARE SPECIALISTS SINCE 1962
5 News
News Beauty industry feels the pinch
South Africa’s tough economic climate, which saw the recent increase of VAT (Value Added Tax) from 14% to 15%, as well as two big hikes in petrol levies, has, not surprisingly, impacted negatively on salons, spas and beauty supply distributors. Product and treatment prices have had to increase to accommodate the new VAT and exorbitant petrol prices. Consumers in turn are having to tighten their belts and due to the trickledown effect, several salons have reported significantly reduced business in April. Some salons have noticed that customers are switching from premium brands in their treatments and retail purchases to more cost effective options. However, Debbie Merdjan of the Camelot Spa Group and Marine Spa Distributors is optimistic for an improved 2018. She says: “There have been many positive and negative financial implications for the consumer over the last couple of months but it is my view that business sentiment plays an overriding role. There can be no doubt that business sentiment has improved markedly recently, which should bode well for the economy and consequently for the spa and salon business and product retail sales. “The increase in VAT from 14% to 15% in itself should not have a
major effect on spa treatments and retail sales. As an example, R1,000 spent on spa treatments/retail sales will only increase VAT from R140 to R150 – a mere R10, which is rather insignificant taking cognisance of the middle to upper end of the market that is targeted.” Merdjan maintains that it is the combination of the increase in VAT amongst other recent fiscal measures taken which will certainly reduce the disposable income of the consumer. She continues: “These include the fuel tax, the ad valorem taxes and the sugar tax, as well as the modest reduction in income tax which will not cater for the fiscal drag. In addition, the significant increase in assessment rates of anything between 20% to 80% recently announced, as well as the pending electricity increase, will materially negatively affect the cash strapped consumer. “The lack of clarity on the issue of the expropriation of land without compensation is also a factor that can also, albeit hopefully temporary, affect economic confidence and consumer spending. “However, it is not all doom and gloom. The inauguration of President Ramaphosa and his subsequent reshuffling of his Cabinet resulted in a huge positive change of sentiment towards South Africa. This has resulted in a major improvement in the rand,
which gained further traction by Moody’s holding South African credit ratings at its current levels and in fact upgrading South Africa’s economic outlook from negative to stable. “The strengthening of the rand will reduce the cost of imports significantly, as well as inflation, which will offset to some extent the impact of the increase in VAT as well as the other costs mentioned. In addition, the reduction in the discount rate from 6.75% to 6.5% announced by the Reserve Bank recently is going to reduce the cost of borrowing, which impacts positively on the consumer’s finances.”
Price freeze In a recent interview with Liziwe Ndalana of Fin24, Fetola’s Anton Ressel suggested that small business owners put a freeze on their prices and in this way stand out from the crowd. “In addition, small business owners shouldn’t keep the fact that they are freezing their prices a secret – they should make it part of their marketing strategy, as it becomes a commitment to their customers. While freezing prices is a risky decision, the longterm benefits are worth it. “Small business owners must also find ways to cut costs in the running of their businesses by negotiating better deals with their suppliers, or relooking their suppliers,” stated Ressel.
online @ probeauty.co.za
News
6
Global beauty market in flux Professional Beauty UK reports that there has been a record rise in mergers and acquisitions (M&A) in the global beauty and personal care market, with 35 deals completed in the first quarter of 2018. The biggest activity has been in skincare, where there have been nine branded acquisitions, most which have been a natural proposition, according to data from the UK M&A advisory business of Alantra (previously known as Catalyst Corporate Finance).
This figure is up exponentially from the same period last year, where 21 deals were made in Q1 2017. Key trends that have underpinned the activity include differentiation through technology, an example being L’Oréal’s acquisition of Canadian augmented reality company ModiFace to supplement its product and service offerings; and the growth of ‘fast beauty’ – with the leading beauty players ramping up their pace and ability to react to the latest consumer demands.
The other big trend has been the natural and organic beauty movement. For example, P&G made two acquisitions with a strong natural proposition – native deodorants and Snowberry skincare. Plus, Unilever acquired Schmidt’s body care, and Groupe Rocher acquired social selling natural beauty business Arbonne. This year’s M&A activity has followed three years of similarly high activity, with 85 deals announced in 2017, 90 in 2016 and 2015 respectively, the company’s research found.
Salon Specifics celebrates 20 years A limited edition of champagne shimmer waxes has been launched onto the market by Salon Specifics in honor of the brand’s 20th anniversary. “We believe that this milestone merits a real celebration,” says Brenda Stanfield, Salon Specifics product manager. “In 1998, LeeChem Laboratories launched Salon Specifics. We have so enjoyed watching this brand grow from strength to strength each year and would like to thank all of our loyal clients for playing an integral part in our journey, and for helping Salon Specifics in reaching this exciting milestone. “Salon Specifics is celebrating its 20th anniversary countrywide with loyal distributors and clients. To enjoy all the benefits of our limited edition salon products, we have invited them to join our Pure Rewards loyalty programme, where they will receive free products and discounted pricing. To register for programme, you need only email salonspecifics@leechem.co.za, and
you’ll stand the chance to win an anniversary hamper to the value of R2,000.” The Salon Specifics limited edition range of waxes includes: Luxurious Champagne Shimmer Film Wax 800g Tin; Luxurious Champagne Shimmer Strip Wax 800g Tin; and Luxurious Champagne Shimmer 100ml Cartridge. “Our story started many years ago, when Lee-Chem Laboratories, manufacturer of Salon Specifics, was founded by Raymond
Melouney in 1962, with a dream and determination to be a leading cosmetics and personal care manufacturer,” continues Stanfield. “Lee-Chem has evolved into an internationally respected personal care specialist, proudly housing retail brands Mandy’s, Julienne, DX Smooth and Blue Steel Sports, as well as our featured brand, Salon Specifics. “Today, Lee-Chem attains strong local and international focus, with product exports to five continents around the world.”
Sales of make-up set to soar Global sales of colour cosmetics are expected to reach US$48.3bn in 2018, up 6% from 2017, according to new research from Mintel. The hottest macro-trends in the category have been identified by Mintel as social media, sustainability, transparency and hybridisation.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Mintel notes that the success of social media influencers shows that people buy the personality and not simply the products. It is important for brands to have a personality, to showcase their founders, and tell their story to be relatable for consumers. With the move towards natural
and organic products, brands will be expected to demonstrate their ethical policies and consideration of resources and alternatives. Regarding hybridisation, Mintel predicts there will be more opportunity for brands to develop hybridisation between categories, like ‘make-up meets skincare’.
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News
8
inbrief // Dr Andrew Christie, clinical director and global medical trainer for Dermapen, visited South African recently to launch the Dermapen 4 automated needling device.
Blue light – the next big anti-ageing trend? Several beauty brands have launched anti-pollution skincare products over the past few years, with ingredients to tackle environmental damage and free radical attack, but now products that protect against blue light are coming to the fore. According to Global Cosmetics News, several launches at the recent In-Cosmetics Global 2018 event were aimed at protecting the skin from the
ageing effects of blue light (i.e. the light emitted by tablets, laptops and mobile phones). One such launch was Seppic’s Sakadikum, which is derived from a plant native to Madagasca called Sakarivodambo that is said to protect against blue light and smoke as well as internal stresses. Meanwhile, IBR (Frutarom) was showing UrBioTect, said to ward off the damaging effects of urban pollution and blue light.
Poise creates massage oil collection
// Dermalogica has completely revamped and relaunched its Face Mapping and treatment services. Face mapping now not only includes a digital format for the therapist to use, but a digital format for the consumer as well (i.e. my. facemapping.com).
// South African brand, Optiphi, has joined the prestigious aesthetics & plastic surgery group, Medical One, and its premium skincare products are now available in Germany.
// Beauté Pacifique’s international trainer, Tilde Orum Sauer, visited South Africa recently launch the Danish brand’s SuperFruit Day Cream and Night Cream, both formulated with peptides and a high content of antioxidants.
// Gwen Postma of The Beauty Clinic East London has designed an entirely new facial treatment with the South African, family-owned brand, Simply Bee, an all-natural range of beeswax products.
online @ probeauty.co.za
South African cosmetic distributor, Poise Brands, has developed, formulated and manufactured its own massage oil, called Extracts Collection. Says Poise Brands MD Janine Janse Van Rensburg: “We had been playing with the idea of developing a massage oil for a good couple of years and the perfect opportunity presented itself towards the end of last year. We wanted to develop a massage oil that was as beautiful to look at as it was to use. “The base oil blend contains the highest quality omega rich oils such as avocado, grapeseed and joboba oil. We have included a blend of 10 pregnancy safe essential oils at the perfect concentration to ensure the product’s safety. The essential oil blend is a beautiful fresh citrus blend with a gentle heart of white flowers.”
Janse van Rensburg notes that being the sole distributor of Mama Mio Skincare in South Africa over the past 10 years has placed Poise in the perfect position to draw on its joint experience in the maternity market to develop this massage oil which complements, amongst others, the Mama Mio Pregnancy treatments perfectly. In other news, Poise Brands, which also distributes Mio Skincare, Juliette Armand and Mii Cosmetics, celebrated its 10th birthday on 8 May.
GMP expands ambit In its mission to increase the number of appropriately skilled spa professionals around the world, the Global Mentorship Program (GMP) has expanded its operations to include hospitality professionals, consultants and product house representatives. GMP is a pro-bono initiative of the Global Wellness Institute that was created in 2014 originally to assist spa managers to boost their leadership skills and jumpstart their careers by being mentored by more experienced spa executives and spa operators. Now, hotel general managers as well as spa & wellness owners, spa
directors/managers, assistant spa managers, lead spa receptionists, lead aestheticians and lead therapists can register online (http://gmpapp.com/users/sign_ up) at no charge for a 6-month Mentorship that comprises a 60-minute monthly call with highly experienced professionals, who are registered as mentors in the GMP program.Mentors have to have over five years of experience in Spa, Wellness or Hospitality, with a high level of leadership success to inspire and guide mentees with potential and a minimum of two years’ experience.
9
Sales of Lumenis LightSheer lasers in the EMEA (Europe Middle East Africa) region are 24.5% up on 2016 figures. This statistic was revealed at the recent Lumenis EMEA Distributors conference in Madrid, Spain, which was attended by The Hitech Group of South Africa. Says Hitech’s Naomi Olivier: “There are more than 20,000 LightSheer systems in daily use all over the world and it is the most used laser hair removal system. At the EMEA conference, Lumenis introduced the exciting new PiQo4, a Nano and Pico second pigmentation and tattoo removal laser. “Lumenis spends huge amounts on their R&D and due to this focus they remain the leader in the development of new, safe and effective technology. The Hitech Group is very proud to have been a Lumenis distributor for 35 years.” She notes that the keynote speaker for the event was
Haymish Taylor, a leading expert in innovation/change, customer focus/ brand management & leadership/performance. “Haymish’s topic was how a better understanding of your customers can unlock new opportunities. The basic message of his inspiring presentation
News
LightSheer sales in EMEA region increase
was about transforming your communication messages to touch the emotions and needs of your targeted, well-defined audience. He stressed that this approach has to start from the company CEO and that verbal messages should be supported with a powerful, wellrehearsed performance.”
New appointments at The Spa Consultants
In line with its recent expansion, The Spa Consultants, owner of the SIX Sensational Skincare and Spalicious brands, has appointed three new staff members.
Lauren Jenkins has been appointed the new key accounts brand expert for Gauteng, while Tanya van der Walt has moved from Gauteng
to become the Cape brand expert. Michelle van Rensburg is the new training & marketing administrator.
Brand Addicts expands The newly formed partnership between Dina Katakuzinos and Jodie Forsyth, Brand Addicts (formerly Wondernail), has taken on distributorship for Bellabaci, Bellabaci Sport and CoCoBaci. “We are very excited to be able to expand Brand Addicts
and to take on these top brands. Bellabaci is based on the ancient traditional cupping therapy and it is a well-known treatment used for stagnation, toxic elimination and pain relief. The Bellabaci Sport product is especially formulated to increase
muscle endurance, relieve post exercise discomfort and to increase the body’s natural healing abilities, while CocoBaci is a deep body cleanse and teeth whitener that detoxifies the body and whitens teeth.”
online @ probeauty.co.za
News
10
Male grooming on the rise South African men are investing in skin and hair products more and more and have become a lot more conscious of their appearance over the past year. So says Glen Summers of Sorbet Man, a salon chain with 17 stores countrywide. He continues: “Men are also now really clued up on the different products that are available. Male grooming is definitely growing in South Africa, with an increased interest in skincare.” From a global perspective, market research company Kline notes that male grooming has undergone a dramatic change over the past several years to become one of beauty’s most dynamic segments, having reached the US$ 4.5bn mark in 2016. Kline states that exfoliation, hydration and masking are no longer limited to women, with a growing number of men using anti-ageing serums and beauty devices. According to Euromonitor’s ‘Men’s Grooming in South Africa’ report of July 2017, the sector recorded 13% growth in value sales in 2016, as men are increasingly interested in products that have been developed specifically for their needs. The report states: “Moreover, men are now also becoming increasingly likely to shop for their own beauty and personal care products. There is also a growing focus on the role of good quality products in a maintaining a youthful and attractive appearance on a long-term basis, which is encouraging men to trade up in many categories of men’s grooming.”
Facial hair Commenting on the latest trends in facial hair, Summers says that beards are still going strong. “However, beards have become quite groomed and tapered and neat finishes are now quite the thing. At Sorbet Man we have noted an increase in demand for our Clipper Wolf Man & Razor Wolf Man service, as well as the purchasing of beard care products. Beard oils, beard balms and soaps
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are huge, as are beard combs and brushes.” Yvette Zacharowitz of Nouveau Contour has observed a huge increase in the ‘metrosexual’ trend. “This is encouraging men to be more proactive in getting aesthetic treatments, such as permanent make-up, to improve their appearance. “One such example is ‘Guy Liner’, a natural soft eyeliner often in brown tones or skin camouflage colours to accentuate the eyes rather than a firm eyeliner.”
Male make-up Kline reports that make-up for men is now an actual trend, with Covergirl and Maybelline debuting their first male brand ambassadors. Says professional make-up artist Ryno Mulder: “Although I think we are far off locally in terms of seeing South African men regularly wearing makeup, thanks to social media, a free thinking guy in a small town can now be in tune with street trends appearing in cities such as Los Angeles, New York, London etc. Instagram has exploded with male make-up enthusiasts who use their own face as their canvas and South Africa is following suit. “Naturally this trend finds itself at home in gender non-conformists,
such as a very small population of gay men who are not afraid to express their feminine side. However, men in make-up is not a gay thing per se. Those men who do who wear full make-up looks, for example lipstick and eyeshadow but who are not drag queens, do so for the love of make-up as an art and hobby.” Mulder believes that with gender roles and transgender issues currently a hot discussion point, we will see more men adopting makeup trends. He continues: “The social media influencers wearing make-up do so mostly in the privacy of their home and for their social media following. However, many gay men do wear natural or ‘invisible’ makeup, such as tinted moisturiser, or shaped brows defined with brow balm, or perhaps bronzer and lip moisturiser. “Many heterosexual male celebrities insist on make-up because they know what an improvement this can make to their appearance when they are featured on stage, television or in print. I now have a rate for male grooming at weddings as some heterosexual grooms want an even and matte complexion on their wedding day, so I create a flawless but natural look and no one would even guess they are wearing make-up.”
Business Tips
12
ask
the experts
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
I have heard that one needs to have emotional intelligence in order to manage oneself effectively and in turn, one’s staff. But what exactly is emotional intelligence? Coined in the early 1990s, the term emotional intelligence (abbreviated as EQ – Emotional Quotient) has a few, very formal definitions but what it boils down to is the ability to manage oneself so that one can gain other people’s cooperation. Simply put, EQ is the sum total of our self-management and people skills and if you live on a desert island by yourself you won’t need it at all. However, virtually all jobs today require that we cooperate with other people,
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so any business environment is where EQ makes all the difference. Most people have the skill to do their jobs but if you listen to what many people casually talk about, it is usually issues with other people and, more specifically, the challenges they face trying to get along with them. We can choose our friends but at work we are thrown together with a host of people – some of whom we may not have ordinarily chosen to associate with, for whatever reason. However, the
Simply put, EQ is the sum total of our self-management and people skills and if you live on a desert island by yourself you won’t need it at all. However, virtually all jobs today require that we cooperate with other people, so any business environment is where EQ makes all the difference.
work environment demands that we have to cooperate with people whether we like them or not. EQ happens naturally with those who we get along with, but as a learned skill, it comes into its own when having to deal with people who we think we clash with. Most people assume such difficulties are a clash of personalities which is not the case; it is a clash of reactions, so we can choose how to react to every circumstance. However, this is not about being ‘nice’ which is as transparent as Glad-Wrap. It is a natural human tendency to be more likely to cooperate with people we get along with and to resist those we don’t like or regularly come into conflict with. So EQ is about choosing the behaviour or reaction that is most likely to get the job done without losing ourselves in the process. All human beings have an enormous range of behaviours or reactions to choose from and what we need to question – especially when dealing with people we think we don’t like – is why do we keep choosing the same reaction that keeps producing the same poor result? The reason to keep changing our reaction until we find the one that works is because we make our own lives easier when we can get someone else to cooperate. At work this is what I call the necessity of forming ‘functional relationships’ which are work relationships that work.
EQ vs IQ Information about EQ vs IQ (Intelligence Quotient) circulating throughout the EQ community in the mid-1990s was misinterpreted, leading many people to believe that EQ is more important than IQ. This is simply untrue. You can have all the charm and people skills in the world but if you are severely intellectually compromised and can’t make sense of a rational question, or conduct a sensible argument, you won’t get far in today’s world. On the other hand, intellectual geniuses who have the people skills of an emotional
Business Tips
13
midget will not only be constantly putting other people’s backs up, but they will also be ill-equipped to manage the endless frustration they will have to endure. Both IQ and EQ are necessary but the reason that EQ is often called the ‘master skill’ is because it helps one get the most out of one’s intellect and because most jobs involve dealing with other people.
Emotions In the early days of EQ we had to assume that emotions are messages that provide feedback about the state of our lives. Science now supports the vital role played by emotions in our overall wellbeing. The brain structure (called the hypothalamus) controls all hormones released in the body (via the pituitary gland) and research has shown that these hormones are composed of the same substance as the chemical messengers in the brain. The hypothalamus is also known as the ‘seat of emotion’ because different hormones are triggered depending upon how we feel and, as hormones are the brain’s messengers, it means that emotions literally run the communication system between brain and body. Emotions operate like traffic on a highway and the feelings or sensations that are generated provide feedback about our state of mind. For example, when all is going well and the traffic (of chemical messengers) is flowing smoothly, we experience a good sensation that we label happiness. But if we are alerted to something that makes us afraid, the stress
hormone (Cortisol) triggers the fight-or-flight syndrome, which interrupts normal bodily functions so that we can temporarily channel resources into dealing with any potential threat. This interruption of normal services is akin to encountering a traffic jam on a highway and the accompanying ‘bad’ feeling/s make us uncomfortable enough to take the action needed to restore normal functioning (experienced as happiness). So not only is the state of happiness good for our wellbeing, but it is also essential to our physical health. It is also known that the receptors in the brain that neurochemicals lock onto are the same receptors that make drugs like heroin physically addictive. If the function of these receptors is the reason for the physical addiction to opiate drugs (like heroin or its derivative, morphine), then the mood we are normally in is simply the one we are addicted to. Should this be anything but happiness we can train ourselves to gradually shift the habits that are causing the snarl-ups that prevent us from experiencing a feeling of being relatively happy most of the time. Essentially this is the purpose of EQ training.
Steph Vermeulen is author of several books on EQ and women’s issues and her latest offering – Personal Intelligence: Future Fit Now (EQ+IQ) – is available in leading bookstores. She offers practical training programmes and personal coaching to help people master their emotions and make their lives easier. steph@eqsa.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Tips
14 What is the difference between an oil, serum or concentrate and how do I know which one to apply (or to recommend for homecare) to meet my client’s specific needs? It’s certainly true that the industry is abuzz with a secret language that the ordinary consumer does not necessarily understand. A case in point are the differences between oils, serums and concentrates and knowing in what instances one should apply each of them. Here is a breakdown of the differences of each and how to add them to your client’s skincare regime:
Oils Face oils usually contain plant extracts and essential oils, with the specific purpose being to provide lipids to the skin for extra nourishment. An oil is usually applied over a moisturiser, due to its larger molecular structure, to lock in the
goodness of a moisturiser and to target the outermost layers of the skin. Skin oils are particularly great in treating oil-dry skin, mature skin and skin exposed to very cold temperatures.
Serums A serum is an added step to an already existing skincare regime to provide a boost to the skin, or to target a specific problem such as wrinkles, dehydration or redness. The formulation is water based, with a small molecular size to enable deeper penetration into the skin. Peptides, hyaluronic acid or anti-oxidants will be used in serums. A serum should be applied after cleansing, prior to a moisturiser.
Concentrates These are very similar to serums in that they contain concentrated amounts of ingredients to target specific problems in the skin, whether a dull appearance or a pimple. A concentrate the majority of the time only consists of a single ingredient, such as Vitamin C, Vitamin E or rosehip, to provide a targeted boost to the skin where needed. A concentrate can be used alone or in conjunction with a serum, or as a spot treatment. Stephnie-Anne Dickinson is the training specialist at South African cosmeceutical skincare brand, optiphi.
I keep hearing about the importance of accredited training in the beauty industry. What should I know about accreditation? The Quality Council of Trades and Occupations (QCTO) has given the responsibility to all Sector Education and Training Authorities (in our case, the Services SETA) to be the Education and Training Quality Assurer (ETQA), to quality assure learning within our sector. Thus, Services SETA determines if a training provider’s learning programme, training venue, quality management system and staff meet the stipulated criteria to be deemed an accredited training provider. Learners who progress through this accredited system will open the door to greater opportunities. To seek accreditation is the right way of doing things. Those who offer non-accredited learning without complete transparency are essentially committing daylight robbery, since students and their parents don’t know the right questions to ask. There are many
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training providers who don’t understand the disservice they are doing to their clients (the students). Only once students decide to further their studies do they realise that they need to start from scratch (with an accredited provider). As the unaccredited learning is not aligned to a specific standard, the individual cannot pull any credits from the training they participated in and they lose the opportunity to have access to a Recognition of Prior Learning Assessment (RPL). To recap: • Credit-bearing courses (i.e. accredited learning) accumulate credits for further recognised
training so an individual can move freely through the National Qualifications Framework (NQF). • Non-credit bearing courses (i.e. non-accredited) add value from a learning perspective and the individual can put these on their CV, but they do not give them the same kind of mobility as accredited learning. Chleo Rae Adams is MD of Node Consulting and works with salon / spa businesses, implementing her skills as a Training Practitioner and Career Development liaison. chleo@nodeconsulting.co.za
Treat your nails right.™
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profit, knowledge and business for 2018 by attending the Professional Beauty exhibitions. Not only will you see some great brands, new products and special offers, but also have the opportunity to attend our fantastic series of workshops to help you increase your business knowledge, improve your skills or learn about exciting new treatments.
JOHANNESBURG 2-3 September 2018 Gallagher Convention Centre Register at www.probeauty.co.za for FREE and enjoy the following: • Special offers from a wide range of suppliers • New products and ideas • Fantastic educational workshops • Improve your industry knowledge • Network with your peers Visit www.probeauty.co.za for more information
Business Trends
17
Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in March 2018.
Insider Spa
Insider Salon
March proved to be a bumper month for the majority of spas polled, particularly the hotel and destination spas. A lot of you attributed the increase in treatment business to the fact that Easter fell within March, with others noting a welcome increase in average spend per guest. Similarly, retail business for most spas saw an increase in business as opposed to the same time last year. For some spas this was due to focused sales training for their therapists, more staff and good incentives. Guests at some spas were open to spending more on retail. We asked you what the most popular treatment for your male clients was during March and the resounding answer was – massage, massage, massage. As to the most popular retail items for men – anything to do with muscle care.
As has been the norm for the past year, salons are still very much feeling the negative effects of South Africa’s struggling economy. Unlike spas, many of the salons we spoke to reported a dire March in terms of both treatment and retail business, reporting that clients are really tightening their belts, with very little to spare for in-salon treatments and professional retail products. Some salons noted that clients are switching to more cost-effectively priced skincare brands. While Easter falling in March proved to be a boon for spas, the opposite was true for salons. The most popular treatments for male clients during March were pedicures and traditional massage. Those salons that offer reflexology found this to be an in-demand treatment with male clients. In terms of popular retail products with men over March, eye creams proved to be a winner. PB
The month in numbers
SALON 50
SPA 67 Average treatment room occupancy
Average treatment room occupancy
%
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2017?
83% Better
7% 10% SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2017?
79% 3 % Better
SAME
18% WORSE
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2017?
2% Better
8% 90% SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2018 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2017?
4%
Better
9%
85% WORSE
SAME
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Business Tips
18
Setting goals to boost
BUSINESS The industry certainly felt the pinch of the tight economy in 2017, but this year already brings with it a more positive sentiment. Ayesha Rajah suggests some business goals for maintaining business health and growth.
A
lthough the air is filled with hope it does not change the fact that we are still in for a tough few years. So, what’s the answer? Strategy, strategy, strategy. Firstly, protect your cash flow as this is the lifeblood of your business. To keep your business healthy, cash needs to continue flowing through. Yes, there are constant expenses in a business, but the main objective is to have the cash flow to sustain those expenses. So, invoice promptly especially for large group bookings; secure part payment up-front for busy weekends and package deals and secure full payment up-front for courses of treatments booked. Offer a special price to secure the client’s commitment to a course, rather than risk losing the client halfway through.
Client retention strategy Implement a client retention strategy as you can bet the salon/spa down the road already has. It’s far easier to retain an existing client than to convert a new client into a regular and long-standing patron. Ensure the experiences that clients have in your business are memorable. Consider all touch points – from the moment they make their appointment until the moment they leave. It is no longer just a good service that makes a client return time and time again – it depends hugely on the emotional connection they have with your business through the entire process.
Reduce your expenses In order to manage expenses you need to go through your inventory management and product wastage with a finetooth comb. Some other culprits to keep an eye on are: printing
costs, wastage on perishable refreshments served to clients; and the over-zealous changing of marketing material.
Capitalise on big events Implement a year-on-year rolling calendar to highlight all the holidays associated with increased services, retail and higher percentage of voucher purchases. If you are rolling out your promotions and marketing campaigns only a week to 10 days prior, you are potentially losing out on a large segment of the market. This calendar needs to be synced with a reminder to rollout marketing, ideally three weeks, but no less than 14 days, prior to the event (i.e. Mother’s Day, on 13 May would roll out at the end of April). Having a clear strategy that is closely monitored ensures that your entire team has a clear vision of where the business is heading. PB
Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and SkinDoctors. ayesharajah@ai-importers.co.za
Spa Focus
20
REVENUE MANAGEMENT unpacked
Do you find that your spa is underutilised and sometimes maybe even empty? If so, then it is time to start managing your business in a more strategic manner, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.
M
ost spas offer their treatments on a first come first served basis, meaning that during high demand times a very profitable treatment could be turned away because the treatment room is booked with a much less profitable treatment. In order to optimise revenue, you need to look at ways of attracting clients during low demand times, while simultaneously boosting profit during high demand times. The RIGHT product at the RIGHT time at the RIGHT price is the core principle of revenue management. Before you implement any revenue management strategies, let’s look at what information you need before you start making any decisions.
Revenue contribution Draw up a report showing highest to lowest profitable treatments and the contribution of these treatments to total spa revenue.
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Managing costs
In order to optimise revenue, you need to look at ways of attracting clients during low demand times, while simultaneously boosting profit during high demand times. Productivity analysis What day of the week and what times of the day have the highest demand? What months produce the highest revenues? Which treatments are least sold?
Retail analysis Do you have a strong retail focused team? Is this something that can be improved on? What other impulse buys can you add to your retail offering? When is your Average Docket Value highest?
Do you have an effective cost control system in place? Are there areas where you feel you can cut costs without compromising experience? Do you have a system in place where you actively promote higher profit treatments?
Clear picture The above information will give you a clear picture of opportunities where to optimise revenue. Before I share some ideas on how to manage revenue in your spa business, let’s first agree that running a ‘discounting’ business is not a long-term revenue boosting solution. Rather it can have a negative result in how customers perceive the value they are getting as they will begin to expect discounts all the time. So, instead of setting your treatment prices based on highest demand level and then discounting to fill up quiet days and times, rather consider the following: 1. Type of treatment room – for
example, pedi lounge vs private treatment room; or standard treatment room vs outdoor room over the lake with private bathroom facilities and Jacuzzi. 2. Treatment booking times – last minute bookings vs advance bookings; time of day; day of the week; and duration of treatment. 3. Type of treatment booked –the most profitable treatments are offered during higher demand times and least profitable treatments and shorter treatments are offered during lower demand times. 4. Effective utilisation of spa facilities to support treatments booked – this means booking up the least in demand rooms first, leaving open the higher demand rooms during peak periods. For example, you would book a pedicure in a lounge area before booking a treatment room, leaving it open to perform a more profitable treatment like a massage.
Dynamic pricing Here are some ideas on where to get started with a term that is a little new to our industry, namely dynamic pricing. It is defined in the dictionary as the practice of pricing items at a level determined by a particular customer’s perceived ability to pay. For starters, Saturday bookings should be restricted to higher profit treatments first at peak prices, compared to a Tuesday morning for example. Offer maintenance type of treatments like manicures, pedicures and waxing on a Monday to Wednesday morning, for example, at special prices to drive bookings on those days. Offer Early Bird booking pricing to encourage advance bookings. If you are a spa in a hotel, encourage poolside or on-the-deck massage treatments to maximise the treatment room space in the
spa. If a guest is offered this option, they will most likely take up the offer so that they can relax by the pool while having a massage. At the reservation desk have a clear list of treatments listed from most profitable to least profitable. All bookings should start with the most profitable treatments offered first. Ensure all staff who take bookings are aware of this. This type of dynamic pricing is not new to the consumer so you can do it with confidence It is vital to move ahead with these types of revenue management ideas in order to develop and maintain growth in the spa business. PB Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za
Spa Focus
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The all-new 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention in Johannesburg is taking place on the 2nd & 3rd of September alongside the Professional Beauty Expo at the Gallagher Convention Centre, so please do diarise this event.
5
Key Reasons Why It’s An Event Not To Be Missed
THE CONVENTION AND NETWORKING EVENT FOR SENIOR MANAGEMENT OF SPAS AND HOTELS...
1. Excellent education The World Spa & Wellness Convention (WSWC) covers the most pressing and relevant topics facing spa and wellness operators today; delivering new insight and ideas on the latest trends and challenges. 2. Learn from the best in the industry The World Spa & Wellness Convention offers one of the year’s few opportunities to hear many of the most experienced and high-profile names in the sector speak, sharing their input and expertise. 3. Fantastic networking opportunities The World Spa & Wellness Convention is not only a chance to hear leading industry professionals speak, but also to network with them, and with your spa and wellness peers and colleagues. The convention will feature a number of interactive sessions that actively encourage audience participation and offer the opportunity to talk to and engage in discussion with both session chairs and speakers as well as other delegates. 4. Discover the latest industry trends and launches The World Spa & Wellness Convention takes places as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at the Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. A leading trade event for the spa, beauty and wellness sectors, the show annually attracts around 17,000 visitors over two days and draws more than 300 brands from across the sectors, as exhibitors. 5. Takeaways Conferences can be expensive. From the conference ticket to the plane ticket, from the meals to the bar tab. And that doesn’t even include the time away from the office where you could be doing “work.” However, conferences provide a unique convergence of networking, learning, and fun into a single package. A good conference forces you to grow and challenge yourself. Plus, it allows your employees to get out of the office, gain confidence in their ability, and bring fresh ideas back to the business.
FOR BOTH
DAYS
R800 early bird special offer R1200 after the 1st of August
Silver Sponsor:
For more information on the convention programme log on to to www.probeauty.co.za/wsw.htm
World Spa & Wellness Convention speaker spotlight: Tanya Lopes TANYA LOPES, Spa Manager at Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa in Sandton, will be part of the Implementing International Best Practices at Local and Regional Level Panel at the 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention, which runs at Gallagher Convention Centre on 2 & 3 September. What would you like delegates to take away from your session? Having been in the industry for the last 18 years with the privilege of working in some of the top spas in Europe and South Africa, I was offered the unique experience of being mentored by some of the top business minds of our industry. I believe that without this unique experience I would not be where I am today. So I hope that in my session I will be able to share a small portion of some of the knowledge I have gained over the years.
What are the key reasons you want to speak at the convention? Being in senior positions in our industry can be quite a lonely place to be. I believe oppurtunities for networking with fellow colleagues is vital to sharing experiences and solutions to some of the challenges we face on a day to day basis.
Why is Implementing International Best Practices at Local and Regional Level an important topic to address? Understanding the business
of spas is a vital element to maintaining a successful business model. The world is evolving at an astronomical pace and the client expectation changes far faster than it once did. As the international market has always been a great benchmark for the coming trends in the industry, it’s important that we always review ourselves and whether we remain competitive on an international platform.
Why is it important for industry professionals to attend events like the World Spa & Wellness Convention? There are very few events nationally where one can network with fellow like-minded colleagues to discuss the industry and trends. Personally, I try and participate in as many events as possible to understand more about the different businesses and ideas which have been incorporated to enhance our industry.
What do you look for from the industry events you attend? Innovations, prospective trends in the market and opportunities to network and discuss challenges and solutions.
In what direction do you anticipate the spa and wellness sector moving in the next 10 years? I believe that the era of technology is one that we can’t get away from; that technology will form a bigger part in the guest journey and experience. Tanya Lopes is speaking on the Implementing International Best Practices at Local and Regional Level Panel at 09:45 on Sunday, 2 September. The 2018 World Spa & Wellness Convention takes place at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand on 2 & 3 September, as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo.
For more information on the convention programme log on to to www.probeauty.co.za/wsw.htm
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World Spa & Wellness Convention
23
Spa Focus
24
and the spa
Hilltop Spa at Four Seasons Resort Seychelles recently won the World Spa & Wellness Award for Resort Spa of the Year: Middle East & Africa. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to the spa’s Sandie Johannessen to find out the secret to their success.
A
s Sandie Johannessen, Four Seasons’ Senior Spa Director Middle East & Africa, points out, the setting of the Hilltop Spa is truly special, being situated high above the beach on Petite Anse on the south-west coast of Mahé, the largest island in the Seychelles archipelago. “Furthermore, the spa’s design is thoughtful and spacious,” continues Johannessen. “This makes it the ideal setting for our choice of treatments that
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It is a real honour to be recognised by these awards and I believe unprecedented that any single spa should win an award in two consecutive years. are performed by highly trained and confident, yet humble, team members who are able to connect
with each guest to make sure the spa experience is best suited to individual needs.” She points out that this is the second time the spa has triumphed at the World Spa & Wellness Awards, having previously won the Hotel Spa of the Year: Middle East and Africa category in 2017. “It is a real honour to be recognised by these awards and I believe unprecedented that any single spa should win an award in two consecutive years. This is testament to the incredible efforts of our entire spa team here in Seychelles. “We are constantly trying to innovate and bring new experiences to our guests, without neglecting the fundamental importance of having consistent quality in our treatments and guest interactions. From our Tailored Spa Journeys, to launching a pop-up spa experience with Swiss Perfection in our Residence Villas, we try to offer guests new and innovative choices.
“For instance, last year we partnered with Sodashi to welcome founder Megan Larsen for a week of training and guest events, alongside the launch of the Oud Renewal Therapy Treatment – making us one of only a handful of spas in the world to offer this. We now have many exciting plans ahead for 2018,” explains Johannessen.
‘Golden Rule’ Opened in February 2009, Hilltop Spa strictly adheres to the Four Seasons company culture, which is based on what is called ‘the Golden Rule – to do unto others as you would have done unto you’. According to Johannessen, this same ethos is carried through to the way spa guests are treated, on top of which personalisation and the customising of service and information for each individual are a key part of Hilltop Spa experience.
Added to this mix is the option of Yoga classes performed in the open air Yoga Pavilion. Says Johannessen: “We believe in providing guests from different backgrounds and belief systems a harmonious and energising spiritual experience within the framework of Yoga. Many properties have indeed hatched onto this philosophy that Yoga in all its aspects, from physical to mental and emotional, and according to the Gita scripture, is the journey of the self – through the self to the self.” Hilltop Spa also caters for children with a dedicated Kids’ Spa offering. “Nowadays, spas aren’t just something for grown-ups to enjoy. Our Kids’ Spa experience can be an opportunity to make your child feel special, or to take time to bond in sharing the time together. Whether it’s a birthday or reward for doing well in school or other activities, you can make it a day to remember,” notes Johannessen.
Indigenous brand She believes that products like the organic oils of Seychellesbased Yi-King and the sustainable fair trade prowess of Ila and Sodashi help lay the foundations of ethically minded guest experiences. “Yi-King is an organic spa range created exclusively in the Seychelles. It is founded on the eight master elements of ancient Chinese philosophy, which correlate to eight different time periods of the year. Each master element is represented by the custom-blended Yi-King oils, which are assigned to your treatment to match your date of birth,” comments Johannessen. As for its therapists, by investing in and committing to education at all levels, Four Seasons builds competence and confidence in its Hilltop Spa team, be it local or ex-pat spa therapists. At Four Seasons, each department based learning activity is aimed at impacting the guest experience
and supporting the culture of the company and local community. Hilltop Spa comprises five pavilions that house eight treatment rooms, including five couples’ treatment rooms. The latter are equipped with change room facilities, rest room, outdoor bathtub and rain shower.
New Four Seasons spa in Seychelles Debbie Duval, Four Seasons Senior Director of Public Relations and Communications for the region’s spas, notes that the company opened The Circle of Connection Spa at the new Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island on 1 March this year. Says Duval: “The Circle of Connection Spa is a haven of wholeness where self, senses and surroundings unite in infinite oneness. Guests begin their exploration with individual Desroches Discoveries, elevate their encounter with Sensory Connection Rituals and tailor their treatment with one of five Desroches Enhancers. “Like Hilltop Spa, there is a similarly harmonising holistic experience at The Circle of Connection. The settings of our spas make guests feel they are in the lap of Mother Nature, but to be truly beneficial, they have to connect guests on a physical level to the healing benefits of the nature that’s around them too.” PB
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Spa Focus
25
Spa Focus
26
spa
T
consultation
under the spotlight
Camelot Spa Group owner and spa consultant, Debbie Merdjan, reports on the findings of the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) Consulting Data Survey, which is aimed at improving and understanding the spa industry.
hirty-two spa consultants from across the world took part in the GWI Consulting Data Survey, designed for current or potential spa owners to gain perception and understanding into the spa industry. The aim of the survey was to find out what works and to look at ways of moving forward. Questions in the survey included anything and everything to do with spas and the beauty business – concept, finance, architecture, design and decor, size, staff, training, business practices, product, price, customer service and satisfaction, marketing, sales, analysis, insurances, beauty and beauty trends. Almost everyone surveyed works in spa management or in the hospitality industry. Most have diplomas or college degrees, with some having specialised in a particular field. All respondents have undergone training and continued beauty and / or management education through classes and seminars. A few consultants have educated themselves and received handson training. Almost half of the consultants surveyed have worked on several spa projects per year, most in hotels and resort spas, day spas and wellness centres or retreats. Here is a more detailed look at what the GWI Survey included:
funding, concept development, architecture, size of the spa and the staff, decor and the design of the spa menu and pricing. Of the consultants interviewed, most said a new spa takes anywhere from a year to 18 months from concept to opening, followed by another six months or year to profit and success.
Staffing, training and education This section was about management training, staff employment and training, sales and marketing, customer service and staff and marketing performance analysis. A third of consultants who took part in the survey employ three or four staff members, while a quarter employ four or more. Ongoing training and education are vital to retain staff and to offer the best possible customer experience.
Spa business practices
Pricing
This focused on the common practices regarding the opening of a spa, finances and
We were asked when and how pricing is determined and whether it is project based or
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not. Almost everyone surveyed felt that pricing is project based and often done at set points throughout the projects. This section included finances for the spa, pricing of the products and treatments, salaries, increases and bonuses.
Growth Spas grow at different speeds depending on size, position, demand and planning. When asked what percentage growth year-on-year consultants foresee, responses came in at up to 13%, although it was seen that this percentage varies year on year.
Insurance Almost all consultants carry Professional Liability Insurance. Hotel groups seem to spend more money on this than the average spa but it is something for all spas to consider.
Marketing It appears that word of mouth and client recommendations are the most important tool for marketing, followed by
the internet, online marketing, trade and beauty shows and conferences. Surveys focus intensely on marketing and sales as this is what will ultimately lead a spa to success.
Success and successful consultations When asked what constitutes an ‘effective consultation,’ most consultants responded that they want to see a happy and satisfied client, one who comes back and recommends their friends. A successful spa is one that produces revenue and makes a good profit. The work environment contributes to the success of a spa too. A satisfied consultant will result in a satisfied customer.
Skills Almost all consultants said they would like to take their training to the next level, to
keep learning and developing their skills. Training is vital, hands on experience is vital and advice from mentors who have achieved success in the beauty industry is a big plus. Trade shows, networking, seminars and lectures are all key. The majority of respondents indicated that a good consultant should not only be good at what they do, but also have the ability to listen, be patient, calm, cool and kind. Almost everyone said that relationships, shared values and communication skills are as important as knowledge, training and experience. Have a look at the GWI website and see for yourself: https:// www.globalwellnessinstitute.org/ consulting-initiative/. GWI offers a good source of information for spa consultants who want to develop their skills and many spa consultants said they make use of the GWI online site, reading
the hospitality articles and business resources. One of the conclusions of the GWI survey, which we already know, is that each spa is different. Not all clients and projects are the same, as finances, design, decor and spa menus are always going to be individual and different. What is essential for growth as a spa consultant is training, constant learning and keeping up with beauty trends and always giving the customer what they want – a beautiful experience in a beautiful setting, one that makes the customer feel good. PB
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982, started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. dm@camelothealth.co.za
Spa Focus
27
Software
28
right ONtarget As part of our annual focus on spa and salon management software, Professional Beauty asked Chris Parker of ESP to write a case study on how the Sorbet Group’s custom designed software complements its vision and objectives.
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round seven years ago I wrote an article on the success of the Sorbet Group of salons and at the same time their move to ESP Software. At the time there were 40 Sorbet stores and about 60,000 loyalty members. I remember in those days what it was like to attend a franchisee forum – a room full of head office operations team members and franchise owners. You could still get away without using a microphone if you had to do a presentation. Today, with around 200 Sorbet stores (including a presence in the UK) and over 300,000 loyalty members, a franchisee forum is quite a different experience, with a much larger room filled with many more people, big screens and voting devices. A microphone is definitely essential. But just what is it that has set Sorbet online @ probeauty.co.za
apart in the sense that they have been able to keep growing in this way? Well, if I think back to my earliest encounters with Sorbet founder, Ian Fuhr, it must be (in my humble opinion) the vision and passion and therefore resulting company culture that has permeated this organisation and all of its activities. I recall talking to Ian in 2004 when he told me that he was spending much of his time writing – as in writing up his ideas, vision and policies. For example, things like never expiring a gift voucher – and this was in the days prior to the Consumer Protection Act, when most salon gift vouchers expired after three months. This was a small example of something that would make Sorbet different and give it a competitive advantage, as opposed to getting in line with everyone else and trying to copy those ahead of you. It was a vision of creating a culture that would always put the client first and a passion for this has become synonymous with the Sorbet brand as it was applied in every area of the business.
Early days I recall the days when we first moved Sorbet onto ESP software. There were a number initial teething problems with things like carrying over the correct loyalty balances and voucher balances. However, whenever there was a dispute, Sorbet would honour the clients without question. I would often marvel at how passionate all the team members were and the kinds of hours they would work and at dinner one evening, I asked Ian how he managed to motivate his team to this end. He said, quite simply, that he didn’t motivate them, rather he tried to create an environment where they could motivate themselves.
Clear vision Now, in relation to software systems, I believe that because of a very clear vision and the passion for achieving the success of the Sorbet brand, the implementation of software systems was made easier. When you know what you want, then you have a clearer idea of what you need in order to achieve it. For example, the Sorbet loyalty scheme was very clearly thought out so it made it easier to develop the appropriate software. It is simple yet extremely effective because clients feel like they are actually getting rewarded. When it was time to review the loyalty scheme, specialists were brought in to analyse the existing scheme and look at ways of improving it. This was very deliberate and once the data analysis was complete and the loyalty specialists had given their feedback, the way forward was once again very clear and developing the software system was once again made easier. Partnering strategically with companies like Clicks when it came to swiping a Clicks Club Card at Sorbet, or buying a Sorbet gift card at Clicks, was also part of the vision of growing the Sorbet brand and leveraging this relationship in a positive way. Once again the clarity of this vision made it easy for the different technical stakeholders to come together in order to develop the features to make it possible.
Desired outcome In over 21 years of working in this industry, I have sat in on meeting upon meeting of ideas being bandied about – of loyalty scheme ideas, membership scheme ideas, reporting ideas, stock feature requirements, e-commerce, mobile apps, API (Application Programme Interface) integrations, and the list goes on of ways that companies are trying to set
themselves apart from the rest. Usually the most successful implementations are when companies have a very clear idea of what they want to achieve and why they need it in the first place. Systems are put in place because there is a desired outcome that you are trying to achieve. You do not put a system in place for the sake of having a good system, you put it in place because you want to grow your business, reduce costs, reduce time spent, create data you can analyse and anything else that contributes to the original vision you had when you started your business. All of this is made even easier when it is already part of your company culture. For example, you may already be doing something manually or using Excel and it is working very well for you, now you just want to automate it so that you can leverage the power and convenience of a digital platform. Therefore, before you think about choosing a system be very clear on what your objective is. Once you are clear on your objective, figure out what your focus points (i.e. the things you never take your eyes off) should be in order to achieve this objective. Once you are focusing on the right areas, then it’s time to take action to get yourself on the right track. Then simply find a system that helps you do all of this in the right place at the right time at the right cost. This might seem like an abrupt end to this article but for those companies who are already doing this, it will make perfect sense and there won’t be much need to say a lot more. However, if you are not clear on how to achieve this then perhaps we need to chat further. PB Chris Parker is the MD of ESP Salon & Spa Software. chris@esponline.co.za
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Software
29
2018
Do you have what it takes to be crowned one of this year’s winners?
You work hard to improve your salon, spa, staff, skills and business Enter the Professional Beauty Awards and you may win one of these fantastic awards, judged by your peers and unique to the professional industry. A great accolade for anyone working in the professional beauty industry. • Resort Spa of the Year • Day Spa of the Year • Game Reserve Spa of the Year • Salon of the Year - 3 Rooms or Less • Salon of the Year - 4 Rooms or More
ENTER TODAY! You have what it takes to WIN! What are you waiting for?
• Spa and Salon Manager of the Year • Therapist of the Year • Nail Technician of the Year • Aesthetic Clinic of the Year • Male Grooming Salon of the Year
The winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Awards Event on the 2nd of September 2018
It is very easy to enter, just visit the website, www.probeauty.co.za and click on the awards button. Then submit your entry online. Entries will then be judged by an independent panel of industry experts in order to select the top 3 in each category. Those selected will then be judged to select the winners. Deadline for entries is the 29th of June 2018.
Software
31
Get with the (software)
programme!
It’s important for salons to re-evaluate their existing software and manual systems on an annual basis to ensure they are still relevant to their requirements, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
T
here has been an increase in demand for software from South African spas and salons over the past year, particularly in cloudbased solutions, according to Gary Halberstadt of SpaGuru. “With the improved availability of online connectivity, cloudbased solutions are a great way of getting up and running. They are cheaper to maintain and can be easily accessed from anywhere in the world. Generally, they do not require any specialised hardware or large upfront investments,” he explains. The most common software requirements from clients are ease of use and the ability to manage employee sales, commission and schedules. Stock control is also an important, and Halberstadt has increasingly seen clients wanting to be able
to offer real-time online booking functionality. “Yet despite the availability of software solutions, there are even large salon chains that still track appointments on a paper schedule,” he notes. “Often this is due to their existing legacy software solution not offering the ease-of-use required to perform this in a paperless way. “In fact, the ability to go paperless has become a popular requirement at many businesses. To support this, we’ve introduced customisable online registration forms that allow clients to submit their information and agree to your terms and conditions electronically. We’ve also extended our marketing functionality to directly integrate with MailChimp, allowing users to easily export filtered lists of clients from ChiDesk directly into a mailing list in MailChimp.”
Despite the availability of software solutions, there are even large salon chains that still track appointments on a paper schedule. Halberstadt emphasises that the SpaGuru team is constantly improving its online members’ area functionality to give clients the ability to offer their direct customers access to online bookings, voucher and product purchases and other profile information on both tablets, mobile phones or computers.
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One software solution for all your daily operations Manage your appointments
Record sales and track stock
Track and control employees
Improve client relationships Get insight into performance
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Cloud-based full salon management system for your business.
Online Bookings
Let customers book 24/7 through the mobile app, web sites or social media.
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MY Appointment
myappointment.co.za • info@myappointment.co.za
Business Trends
33 Online bookings Prior to approaching SalonBridge, Irene du Preez of Polished Pretty in Stellenbosch would accept appointments via phone, WhatsApp, or Facebook. Says SalonBridge founder and MD, Mark Raa: “This meant that if Irene was busy with a client, she could only respond to appointment requests after hours. We helped her in five distinct ways, firstly by designing a custom web page for Polished Pretty, to provide an overview of the business, location, and services. Information can be updated from within the SalonBridge system and their web page updates automatically.” The next step was to enable online bookings by incorporating SalonBridge’s standard ‘Book now’ button onto the web page. Du Preez also opted to charge a deposit for her online bookings. Helping to ensure client retention and improve cash-flow, clients pay a 50% deposit via credit card during the booking process. Raa continues: “Thereafter we set up an automated system that allows Irene to send out custom SMS and email reminders 24 hours before appointments, to further reduce customer noshows.” The SalonBridge app allows du Preez to view her appointment calendar from anywhere, anytime. Once an appointment is finished, she uses the payment integrations to capture card payments directly from her app. Du Preez comments: “I love that my clients can plan their own bookings online. Since I have started using SalonBridge, almost all of my bookings are done online and I am always fully booked.”
“The forward thinking salons realised that they could always be available to get new bookings in – even while they sleep. “Since then, the world has become even more digital and ‘instant’. A full loyalty programme has been integrated into our system, which allows the client to earn points at their salon/spa and redeem these points for treatment. Clients are also able to view all of their loyalty point balances through the app.” Katia Morelli of Matia Bella in Johannesburg’s Morningside Shopping Centre turned to MY Appointment to implement an online booking system, cash-ups, stock records, client data base, turnover records/reports and gift vouchers. Says Morelli: “All the above requirements have been met through the MY Appointment features. I’ve found it a cost effective system and accessible even when out of the salon. It’s user friendly and everything is on one system. Though the database MY Appointment captures, the salon is able to send out bulk SMS on a regular basis as well as SMS reminders 24 hours prior to appointments. The MY Appointment team is very helpful and efficient.”
Accessibility
Employees’ own app
MY Appointment prides itself on having introduced the concept of online booking to the hair and beauty industry five years ago. Says sales director Shani Leon:
Launched last year, the Lollipop Beauty on Demand App is targeted at all beauty services – nails, hair, make-up, spa and barber.
Founder and MD Sandra Shamu believes Lollipop is unique as, apart from being very cost-effective and user-friendly for both the professional and the user, it gives every employee in thes salon their own app so they can see as they get booked in real time. She continues: “Normally, a salon gets a booking and tells the employee when their next appointment is, but with Lollipop employees can view appointments so they know how to pace themselves as they work. They can also upload their own pics and tell the client why they should book them as opposed to anyone else in the salon. “The response to Lollipop has been very good. Users of the app are very excited and wish for more stylists to jump on board so they don’t have to call to make an appointment.” Client Linda Chitemere comments that when she visited Johannesburg recently, she needed to find a nail artist. “A friend recommended I use the Lollipop App and I must say it was very convenient, userfriendly and I managed to get a nail tech to come to my hotel room. I would highly recommend the app.” Hairstylist ‘Thato’ adds: “I work full time and on my off days and I ask my clients to book me on the Lollipop App so that I can make extra money on the side, as I obviously can’t answer their calls when I’m at work.” PB
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Treatment Review
35
There will
blood be
Lelanie cloete experiences the SIX Mini Vampire Facial, performed with the new DermaSIX Collagen Induction Pen.
I
’m well aware of the rejuvenating effects on the skin of needling, so I was very keen to try out the SIX Miini Vampire Facial. My treatment was performed by SIX Sensational Skincare trainer, Kym-Casey Stafford, at Dr Gys du Plessis’ Healthy Aging Clinic in Woodmead.
Said Stafford: “The DermaSIX Collagen Induction Pen differs from other needling pens in that it is cordless and virtually noiseless. It has a 12-pin cartridge for the face, a 36-pin cartridge for the body and a single pin cartridge for targeting specific lines, scars and lesions, as well as a nano cartridge for microdermabrasion. The device makes a hundred piercings per second.” Dr Du Plessis added: “I’m mad about needling so I did a lot of research to find the ideal device for my practice. The DermaSIX pen really appeals because it’s light and easy to use with a long battery life. I love that it
has different needle options and that you can work with a variety depths, from 0.25mm to 2.5mm.” After prepping my skin with the DermaSIX Sanitiser Spray, Stafford applied MediNumb, a pharmaceutical grade numbing cream that contains 10.56% lidocaine and is available directly from SIX. Stafford explained that in most needling facials the therapist will only numb the skin, needle it and then send the patient home. “With the SIX Collagen treatment, we cool down the skin post needling with a marble stone lymphatic massage and an alginate mask that contains French rose clay to reduce inflammation,” she commented. After applying the SIX Vitamin Booster Oil to provide slip, she commenced needling on my forehead, starting at a depth of 1mm and increasing it to 1.25mm. Once this area was completed, she applied the SIX Tightening & Firming Booster Elixir Serum and mixed my blood and booster into the skin until fully absorbed My nose was needled at a depth 0.75mm for the sides and 0.5 for the bridge, followed by the SIX Purifying & Matifying Booster Elixir Serum to help shrink the pores. While needling my cheeks, Stafford went to a depth of 2mm and back to 1mm for the cheekbone before applying the Tightening & Firming Serum.
For under the eyes, Stafford worked at 0.75mm and then applied the Fine Lines & Wrinkles Booster Elixir Serum. Stafford moved to my neck area and chose a depth of 1.25mm and the Sensitive Booster Elixir Serum. Lastly, my lips were needled at 0.5mm, followed by the Vitamin Booster for Lips.
She then performed a lymph draining massage with two iced marble stones and then applied the SIX Sensitive Peel Off Mask. Both of these anti-inflammatory methods felt incredibly soothing. The treatment ended with the application of the SIX Vitamin C Moisturiser and the Broad Spectrum SPF 50+. As is the norm with needling, my skin looked sunburnt post treatment, but already the next day I could see that my skin texture had greatly improved and my lines were less noticeable. Contact SIX Sensational Skincare: 011 312 7840
online @ probeauty.co.za
HIGH POWERED COUPLE FIGHTS FINE LINES, WRINKLES & PIGMENTATION CAUSED BY SUN EXPOSURE & ATMOSPHERIC POLLUTION.
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3914_Dermafix_Trade Generic Advert FA.indd 1
2018/04/06 1:56 P
37
pollution
Treatment Review
THE
FACTOR
Alexandra Norvall tries out the brand new DermaFix Anti-Pollution Facial, designed to repair the skin from the ravages of free radicals and other environmental pollutants.
I
had been reading of late with great alarm about the damaging effects that pollution has on the skin so I was particularly delighted to receive an invitation from DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care to try out their new antipollution facial. DermaFix educator, Rozlyn Williams, explained that this facial utilises existing products within the DermaFix range, which have specifically been selected for their anti-oxidant and cellular regeneration properties. “Pollution is the buzzword in skincare at the moment so DermaFix has focused on combatting the signs of skin fatigue caused by environmental pollution,” said Williams. “In Johannesburg pollution is particularly bad and gets even worse in winter as there is hardly any rain. Pollution increases the amount of free radicals in the air, which have a cascading negative effect on the skin. “Our new Anti-Pollution Facial not only restores damage caused by pollution, but also helps to firm, tighten and rejuvenate the skin, making it an all-in-one booster treatment.” The first step was to give my skin ‘a good clean out’ before restoring its barrier function and providing protection. DermaFix always advocates a
double cleanse and in this instance Williams used the Brightening Cleanser. She continued: “This cleanser effectively assists to minimise uneven skin tone caused by free radical damage.” Following the double cleanse, Williams applied the Brightening Toner. This is based on red fruit extract – namely raspberry and pomegranate. Together these fruit extracts provide a micronutrient called ellagic acid, a powerful antioxidant booster that fights free radicals and environmental stress. Next came the DermaPolish + Activated Charcoal with enzymatic exfoliation benefits. The inclusion of activated bamboo charcoal helps to ‘adsorb’ impurities and toxins from the skin. My skin was now thoroughly cleansed and prepped for the Derma Corrective Enzyme Masque, which helps improve circulation in the skin and draws away toxins. “This masque works to firm and re-oxygenate the skin, thus promoting cellular repair and regeneration. By holding the skin in contraction, the masque
effectively ‘exercises’ the skin,” said Williams, as she began applying the masque to the décolleté and working her way directly up to the face. It was left on for 20 minutes and I could feel my skin getting tighter and tighter. Once Williams removed the mask with the Brightening Cleanser, my skin literally felt invigorated. She applied the Brightening Toner, followed by Ferulic + C + E, an antioxidant combination that provides 72 hours of protection against sunburn, hyperpigmentation, photo-ageing, and photo-carcinogenesis, whilst visibly softening fine lines and wrinkles. The treatment ended with Bio-Hydrating Cream (containing peptides and sweet almond oil for hydration, combatting transepidermal water loss); Dermal Repair (protects against microclimate changes) and DermaShield SPF 50 for high UVB/UVA protection. I was delighted with the results of this facial as my skin looked and felt amazing. Contact DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care: 0861 28 23 23
online @ probeauty.co.za
Winter skin
38
moist
IS THE WORD
With the cold temperatures and low humidity levels that inevitably accompany winter, it’s no wonder that skin barrier function is reduced, leading to dry and dehydrated complexions and possibly even premature fine lines. Professional Beauty looks at some of the latest hydrating skincare products on the market. Extreme fluctuations from frigid external temperatures to extremely warm centrally heated indoor environments not only lead to skin barrier issues, but skin circulation is required to rapidly vasodilate or vasoconstrict. Says Dermalogica educator Unine van Rooyen: “This increases redness and flushing. The skin needs extra protection from these extreme temperatures to help shield and stabilise function. A barrier product is essential to combat the climate. If the temperatures are going to be sub-zero most of the time, it is wise to look for waterless formulas and heavier weight moisturisers, as well as phyto oils. Adding a lipid replenishing product is also a good option. Dermalogica is a huge advocate of layering as this is often more comfortable than wearing one very heavy product.” In terms of ideal ingredients for winter skin treatments, Van Rooyen notes that colloidal oatmeal binds to the skin and
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provides a protective barrier against irritants. It contains waterbinding polysaccharides (long chain sugars) and hydrocolloids that hold moisture against the skin allowing it to act as an emollient. She goes on to say that phyto oils are not only great antioxidants that reduce inflammation, different oils contain blends of vital lipids such as essential fatty acid (EFA), gamma linoleic acid, phytosterols and ceramides. These ingredients increase the level of hydration by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), limiting barrier deterioration and preserving the lipid barrier layer integrity. Other ingredients suited to winter skin according to Van Rooyen are sunflower seed extract; avocado sterols; evening primrose oil; botanical extracts rich in flavonoids, polysaccharides and vitamins, such as cactus pear stem; lavender extract; and hyaluronic acid. She suggests the following Dermalogica products
– Barrier Repair Booster, Phyto Replenish Oil, Skin Hydrating Booster, Barrier Repair, Super Sensitive Shield, Sound Sleep Cocoon, Nightly Lip treatment, PreCleanse Balm and Calm Water Gel.
Round the clock For dry and dehydrated skin, QMS Medicosmetics recommends its 24H. Cream and the Hydro Foam Mask. The 24H. Cream is described as ‘a clever moisturiser with a built-in clock’; protecting the skin by day and relaxing and regenerating the skin at night. Through dynamically built caring-cycles, active ingredients
like vitamins (to fight against free radicals) and a moisturising factor unfold in a way normally achieved through multiple products. Intensely hydrating, the QMS Hydro Foam Mask soaks into the skin within minutes. Silk proteins restore the moisture balance, making fine lines disappear, while hyaluronic acid of high molecular density leaves skin soft and silky. The anti-inflammatory jojoba oil calms skin.
From the doctor
The Team Dr Joseph Intense Energising Serum is a highly effective facial serum for an intensely revitalised and refreshed skin. Active ingredients include oxy lysate complex (protection); natural hyaluronic acid (moisturising); silk proteins (balming and nurturing); aloe vera BIO (moisturising); burdock extract BIO (calming and cleansing); nettle extract BIO (tonifying, frming and calming); comfrey extract BIO (calming); rosemary extract BIO (antioxidant); and papaya (enzymatic). Team Dr Joseph also has the Daily Cleansing Milk, which is formulated with jojoba and olive oils, rosemary extract, blueberry, chamomile and buckeye.
Butter Murumuru seed butter, an active ingredient found in DermaFix Skin ResQ, is a superior emollient that is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and omega acids. This offers both potent moisturebinding properties along with antiageing benefits, making it an ideal
ingredient for overall skin health. Says Ursula Hunt of DermaFix: “The addition of shea butter alongside murumuru seed butter furthermore provides antiinflammatory and skin smoothing benefits. Shea butter has long had the reputation of being a superior moisturiser and is often touted as the skin’s best friend. “It also features as the main ingredient in the soon-to-be released DermaFix Hand ResQ. This restorative hand treatment not only nourishes the skin, but also provides skin protection with the inclusion of Co-enzyme Q10 and SPF 20.” Hunt points out that while many preparations containing shea butter are available within the skincare market, it is the class of shea butter used that is an important factor to consider as shea butter of an inferior quality will easily turn rancid, compromising its own natural integrity and in turn compromising its effect on the skin. “DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care utilises ISO certified laboratories and will use only the best and purest grade of ingredients available,” she explains.
Fruit exfoliation Sans Soucis’ Power Fruit Facial Exfoliator features the exclusive power fruit complex made from pineapple, grape and passion fruit extracts, as well as mineral rich thermal water for an intense yet gentle exfoliation, to allow for greater penetration of moisturisers. The fruit extracts contain
natural AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) including tartaric acid, lactic acid, citric acid and glycolic acid. These allow flakes of dead skin to be thoroughly removed and also activate the skin’s regeneration process. Thermal water supports the skin’s natural metabolism and leaves the skin feeling comfortable.
Sensitive touch
With its restorative and repairing properties, Stage Line Professional’s Intense Revitalizing Cream is perfect for both day and night application, especially for sensitive and neglected skins. It is formulated with a high concentration of active ingredients and acts on the different layers of skin to achieve immediate results in tone and texture. Active ingredients with moisturising qualities include aloe vera, hyaluronic acid and allantoin, which equalise pH levels by acting directly on the control of TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss).
online @ probeauty.co.za
Winter skin
39
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It contains essential vitamins for skin regeneration (pantenol, pro-vitamin B5, Vitamins E and F). This multi-faceted cream also contains barley extract and argan oil.
Five actives
protect the skin and olive oil to help the skin retain its moisture. Other ingredients are argan oil, grapeseed oil, fig extract, shea butter, lactic acid and glycolic acid. The SKNlogic Gentle Cleanse Cream is formulated with sunflower oil to promote cell renewal and collagen production while fighting free radicals. Vitamin E protects the skin and assists with maintaining the skin’s oil balance. Furthermore, Vitamin C has significant anti-oxidant and healing properties and increases collagen production.
Big boost
Skin Doctors’ Skinactive14 Intensive Day Cream contains five concentrated cosmeceutical active ingredients that work synergistically and treat 14 different skin problems by providing intense moisture for dry and dehydrated skin, preventing fine lines and fighting deep wrinkles. Renovage improves skin texture and barrier function, while Exo-T maintains the balance between cell renewal and dead skin removal and protects the collagen network. Aquaxyl improves skin’s water reserves and limits water loss, while aquafill fills wrinkles and refines pores.
Dynamic duo Two ideal SKNlogic products for winter skin are the Hydrating Serum and the Gentle Cleanse Cream. The former contains hyaluronic acid to hold vast amounts of moisture, as well as Vitamin E to
Luminous The LCN Regenerating Luminous Skin Mask provides deep hydration for even the most sensitive of skin types. It has anti-redness and soothing properties due to white clay extracts. It can be used as a night repair cream for a radiant glow all year round. Intensive Liposome Shot, also from LCN, is an anti-ageing serum for a very dry or mature skin type that boosts collagen and elastin production for a younger looking skin. It provides the vitamins necessary for a smoother, plumped up effect with lasting results
Versatile oil
The SIX Moisture Boost Mask is described as being equivalent to eight cups of water for the skin. It soothes, plumps, revives and protects the skin and contains prunus armeniaca (apricot), regenerating phytoamine biocomplex (mimosa tenuiflora, amino acids) sweet almond oil and coconut oil. Also from SIX, the Vitamin Booster Oil brings instant relief to dry, flaking skin. This vitamin cocktail for the skin contains sweet almond oil, kola oil, lipadamix radiance (sunflower seed oil, malva sylvestris flower extract, grape leaf extract), pinus sylvestris (leaf extract), wheatgerm oil and defensil.
Developed for scars and stretch marks, Bio-Oil’s enhanced formulation makes it highly effective for numerous other skin concerns, including dehydrated skin. Bio-Oil helps restore the natural lipid layer and provides lubrication to severely dehydrated skin. It works by locking in your skin’s natural moisture, forming a protective layer on the surface. Its breakthrough ingredient, PurCellin Oil, is rapidly absorbed into the skin leaving an invisible, non-greasy layer on the surface that prevents further irritation and moisture loss. PurCellin Oil™ also acts as an advanced delivery system for BioOil’s key ingredients – Vitamins A and E, lavender, rosemary, chamomile and calendula. PB
online @ probeauty.co.za
Winter skin
41
2018 Inspiring today’s hairdresser
Date:
2 & 3 September 2018
Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre Opening Times Sunday: 10h00 – 16h00 Monday: 10h00 – 16h00
Increase your knowledge ✪ Stage Demos ✪ Hair Competition ✪ Exhibitor Demos ✪ Introducing Sensational Seminar Sessions Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed. Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top industry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creativity translate in a successful business.
The event for your professional hair business Register now for your FREE TICKET and save the R250 entry fee.
www.salonafrica.co.za *Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair
43 Hair News
Crowning GLORY
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Obituary - Darrel Watt The hairdressing sector was deeply saddened to hear of the death of industry legend, Darrel Watt, who passed away on 20 March this year. For many years Watt was the education director at Twincare International. Says Twincare CEO, Stav Dimitriadis: “No other personality in the hairdressing world had such an impact on the industry as Darrel, and I doubt anybody else ever will have. He taught us, challenged us, entertained us and sometimes irritated us with his huge personality and even bigger heart.
“Over 28 years I got very close to Darrel and got to appreciate a more complex and sensitive personality. We shared a lot of happiness and sometimes tragedy together. We built a fabulous company, changed the industry and often made fools of ourselves with our silly antics, often done just to entertain each other. “Twincare became Darrel’s life and by extension the South African hair industry. He was grateful for the career he had and the friendships he made. Goodbye Darrel – I love you and will miss you in my life. I am heartbroken at your passing.”
Captivating kit Renowned for its haircutting kits, trimmers and other personal grooming accessories (many of which are regular best-sellers), Wahl has launched the Men’s Barbering Kit styled in a sleek chrome finish with metal based clipper combs, neck duster, cutting cape and carry case.
011 608 3153
Au natural
The X-shaped ventilation system of Ikoo’s paddle X metallic brush integrates into the extra wide panel. This was specially designed for optimum air circulation. During the blow drying process, as moisture escapes, harmful heat is not built up.
Nalane Hair Care is a natural range infused with a unique blend of indigenous African oils and butters that nourish and strengthen natural African hair, leaving it moisturised, soft and easily manageable.
011 305 1600
081 572 6519
Brushing up
Product Focus – Male Grooming
44
up! MAN
With more and more South African men venturing into grooming, there is a multitude of manly products to choose from.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Three into six
Two-phase action
Suitable for all skin types, the SIX Man Men’s Beard Oil is a three-in-one conditioner, antiingrown hair serum and superhydyrating skin conditioning serum. Active ingredients include sweet almond oil, Vitamin E, wheatgerm oil and grapeseed oil. It is lightly fragranced with bergamot, basil, rosemary and cedar wood.
The Two-Phase Nourishing Oil by Red Dane Skincare for Men is a lightweight, multi-functional face & beard oil that provides immediate benefits to facial hair and skin. This non-greasy oil absorbs quickly while it nourishes, moisturises, rejuvenates and offers sun and pollution barrier protection. It also helps calm and repair irritated skin.
011 312 7840
084 744 2906
Product Focus – Male Grooming
45
Close shave
Tactile stick
DermaFix Conditioning Alkaline Wash is a professional protocol provided by selected DermaFix stockists that may be performed alongside a client’s usual shaving routine to help soften the skin, minimise regrowth of hair and assist to alleviate the pigmented lesions that often accompany Pseudofolliculitis Barbae (ingrown hairs caused by shaving).
The multi-award winning label.m Texture Wax Stick features new and improved formulations and fragrance. As well as candelilla, beeswax and vegetable oil for a soft and non-sticky feel, the Stick includes the exclusive eleMENts complex, made up of unique hair-building botanicals, featuring innovative Micronization technology.
0861 28 23 23
021 448 8847
Quick moves
Stripped! Andmetics has developed and launched a range of wax strips specifically tailored for men and their hair removal needs. There are three different pre-cut wax strips targeted for the brow, ear and toe areas – three of the most common treatment requests from men. The strips are simple to apply and shape and remove unwanted, troublesome hairs.
082 575 6567
RapidHair Hair Volumizing Formula is an innovative leavein foam conditioner specially developed for thinning hair that helps bond nutrients to hair and revive its youthful, voluminous appearance in just 60 days. It is formulated with Hexatein 4 Complex, a proprietary blend of hair enhancing, nourishing and revitalising ingredients.
073 053 8830
Point of fact pHformula has announced that its Point MultiProtect has been nominated in the Beauty Products for Men category of the Swedish Beauty Awards 2018. The Multi-Protect Complex Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 is a biomimetic peptide that reduces UVB-induced inflammatory response for optimal skin protection. It also acts as an anti-pollution agent.
A real tonic! Pioneering brand, Gentlemen’s Tonic, offers an awardwinning selection of male grooming products, both retail and professional, that are used by many of the world’s most recognised and luxurious five-star and boutique hotels and spas.
021 863 0373
082 338 2368 online @ probeauty.co.za
Peeling
46
out in
with the old, with the new
Chemical peels, which used to be solely in the domain of medical aesthetics clinics and skin clinics, have begun to infiltrate the treatment menus of South African spas, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
W
hile it’s evident that peels are increasingly being offered as a treatment option at spas due to client demand, it’s important to differentiate what type of peels are suitable for spas. Sonette Donker of Skin iD, a skin clinic in Sandton, Johannesburg, believes that spas should only offer superficial peels, at no more than 30% strength and no lower than pH3. “Peels at spas must be performed by a qualified skincare therapist, who should advise clients that while there will be no downtime, they will experience a sensation of tightness and dryness. “Superficial peels normally consist of a blend of hydroxy acids and are generally sold in a course of treatments if done to correct superficial skin damage, such as epidermal
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hyperpigmentation and fine lines. Most people have a superficial peel once a month to prevent the visible signs of ageing and to maintain a healthy skin,” she explains. As for aesthetic clinics, Donker says there is no limit to the percentage strength of the peel or the lowest pH. She continues: “Aesthetic clinics can offer a choice of superficial, medium depth and deep peels, which must be performed by an aesthetic therapist, often with a doctor. Downtime could include redness, swelling and visible peeling. This could last anything from three days to four weeks and are normally sold as a once off or a short course of two to four treatments, depending on the skin concern treated. “The medium depth and deep peels are recommended for the following skin concerns: rough skin texture, smoker’s skin, deep wrinkles, hyperpigmentation,
age spots and acne. These peels normally contain TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid), a blend of hydroxy acids especially glycolic acid and phenol in the deep peels.” Donker emphasises that no matter which type of peel, a detailed skin analysis and consultation is vital to determine which peel is best suited to the individual’s skin concerns. In addition, the skin needs to be prepared for two to four weeks prior to the peel and a post peel homecare regimen must be given including a sun protection factor. Patients need to be in good health for optimal skin regeneration. “Individuals doing deep peels need to be briefed on what to expect during the downtime, what is normal and what is not. It is vital that the individual is mentally prepared for the peeling process. Fitzpatrick photo-types 4-6 are contraindicated for some medium depth peels and all deep peels.”
Bright skin Ursula Hunt of DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care points out that chemical peeling, when utilised correctly, provides the perfect tool to visually change the skin within a short period of time. “It kick-starts skin rejuvenation and works to reveal a smoother, healthier and more radiant-looking skin. Concerns that especially benefit from chemical peeling include rough texture, fine lines, superficial scarring, acne, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, blackhead congestion and enlarged pores.” DermaFix offers both superficial and medium depth peels, ranging from the ‘minipeel’ option of DermaFix DermaBright with Mandelic Acid AHA as peeling agent, to the more advanced peeling modality of DermaFix Progressive 3– or 4– Stage Peel, incorporating AHAs, TCAs and Vitamin A Propionate.
Says SIX MD Marisa Dimitriadis: “Instead of mixing acids we tailor-make a peel programme for the consumer using different acids on different weeks, depending on how the skin reacted to the previous peel. “Our strength in percentage undiluted is 30%, which is the maximum allowed without making medical claims. Anything higher than 30% in South Africa has to be legally registered with the MCC (Medicines Control Council). We also know that 30% concentration gives perfect results with no downtime and that is exactly what the consumer is looking for. You can also have more peels more often to get to the results you are looking for without any drastic skin damage.”
renowned healing actives. This treatment would be perfect for any clients who have acne, acne scarring, pigmentation, oily skins with enlarged pores, very sun damaged or wrinkled skin.” She notes that RégimA utilises Natural AHAs and BHAs and New Generation peeling actives in high concentration. “The key to the success and safety of the treatments, short and long-term, is that focus is not only on skin peeling, but also healing and repair. We have combined six natural acids into our fast acting Power Peels 30 + 50, providing the renowned action of Malic, Lactic and Citric Acids with advanced peel technology, with ingredients produced by biological engineering, using no exogenous chemicals.”
Double Whammy
Multi force
The very latest RégimA insalon combination treatment is called the Double Whammy with good reason as it comprises the RégimA Power Peel with Acne Attack applied over the top. Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “Double Whammy provides rapid action peeling and healing, due to the high percentage of AHAs, and BHAs, plus a plethora of
Multipeel pH 2.5, the SKNlogic Chemical peel system, is a multi-purpose, time dependent superficial peeling agent. It provides a safe, controlled and predictable procedure that gradually removes surface skin cells resulting in improvement of skin texture. The SKNlogic Multipeel utilises both Alpha- and Beta-hydroxy acids with other active ingredients to treat the skin, resulting in skin that looks fresher with less visible damage such as fine lines and dark spots. Multipeel is ideal for acne, rejuvenation, dehydration and pigmentation. PB
Purist peels As a brand SIX Sensational Skincare has made the decision not to mix acids together but rather keep them at purest form.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Peeling
47
Medical Aesthetics
48
Beyond basics THE
Karen Ellithorne delves deep into the subject of beauty beyond skin types.
R
enowned artists and architects from the Renaissance era used an equation known as the ‘golden ratio’ to measure out their masterpieces. Today, thousands of years later, scientists have adopted this exact same formula as a measurement to help explain why some people are considered more beautiful than others… and it’s all about facial symmetry. However in most cases, measurable facial asymmetry exists and is overlooked and can be perceived to be just as attractive. One of the most important factors contributing to this illusion is smooth, healthy, flawless and radiant skin.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Now the younger generation is also well aware of the importance of using skincare products to balance their skin and slow down the ageing process. The role of corrective skincare with cosmeceutical active ingredients as an effective tool against premature ageing is well documented and is no longer just used by the middle-aged woman trying to fend off already developed wrinkles. Now the younger generation is also well
aware of the importance of using skincare products to balance their skin and slow down the ageing process. A new addition to this group, especially in South Africa, are men who are also interested in grooming and age prevention. The variety and choice of skincare products can be overwhelming, with most consumers generally picking their products off of supermarket and pharmacy shelves. Unfortunately, in these instances trained skincare therapists are not involved in assisting customers to choose suitable products for their skin types. Consequently, on most occasions these purchases are left up to
Medical Aesthetics
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the customer’s own judgment, resulting in them not choosing the most appropriate product for their skin type, or being dissatisfied with their purchase.
Skin classifications Conventionally skincare has always been categorised into four basic skin types, namely normal, dry, oily, and combination. Specific formulations are formulated for skin conditions like acne, sensitivity and dehydration. Many researchers classify the skin based on genetic disposition, how the skin reacts to sun exposure, and how it reacts to cosmetic treatments. The gold standard of these types of classification systems is the Fitzpatrick classification, which is a simple classification based on genetic background and the skin’s reaction to UV light. This is a well-used industry guide to predict treatment outcomes. Skin properties and how it responds to external stimulation is very much determined by its genetic origin. This depends on many factors, such as the quantity of melanin found in the skin, the type of pigment, the melanosome content, and how much exposure the skin has had to UV light.
Ageing Skin ageing results from two main factors: the intrinsic factors (genetically determined) and the extrinsic factors (environmental). How the skin responds to ageing depends on the interplay of these two factors. Therefore genetic composition and ethnic background of an individual play a large role in the ageing process. As aestheticians we should be better educated in understanding the structural variations of skin types between the different ethnic groups and consider the various differing roles that skincare should be addressing. Age suppression may not be the first thing that needs to be considered on the client’s skin, but rather prevention and retardation of specific skincare issues related to race groups. Thus the product selected must not only be targeted towards a specific skin type but should also be based on the ethnic and genetic background of the individual.
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Medical Business Aesthetics Trends
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Streamlined classification Based on the existing classifications, dermatologist, Dr Sherine S Raveendran from the UK suggests working with a categorisation system that highlights photo ageing patterns among the races and the skin’s reaction to physiological and pathological situations. This categorisation should also focus on specific skin issues related to the various ethnic backgrounds. Group 1: Fair Skin Types (Nordic and European) • Signs of ageing develop early, with wrinkles and sagging being the predominant features • Risk of skin cancer is high • Scars heal well Group 2: Tan Skin Types (Central and East-Asian, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern) • Signs of ageing develop later than Group 1; ageing is found in the form of wrinkle formation and pigment changes like freckles • Low risk of skin cancer • Scars behave variably Group 3: Darker Skin Types (South Asian, African, Afro Caribbean) • Signs of ageing appear very late • Wrinkles not common; pigment changes observed frequently • Skin cancers extremely rare • A tendency to keloid scar formation
Working with this form of classification, it is possible to start introducing active ingredients daily into the client’s skincare programmes to maintain and prevent specific problems that are highlighted in each category before they become problematic. This forces us to think out of the box and move away from our basic classifications of normal, dry, oily and combination skins, as this general of way of treating skin cannot possibly deliver the most effective skincare results on all the different race groups.
Active selection Your common cosmeceuticals, namely antioxidants and peptides, will benefit all skin types and an effective combination of these actives will be even more beneficial to the skin. Sunscreens are, and will always remain, an important component of daily skincare across all skin groups. Due to the fact that darker skin types have a more compact epidermis, an increased rate of cell renewal, as well as an increased rate of transdermal loss of water, it is important to hydrate to prevent the skin from cracking and to consider adding a low level AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) product to assist with dead skin cell removal. However, one should always avoid harsh abrasives that can lead to
irritation and post inflammatory hyper pigmentation. Skin brighteners and melanin suppressors are also good actives to include. A daily use of an anti-oxidant is vital to avoid changes in pigment. The main concern of the fairer skin types is premature ageing and wrinkle development. Many cosmeceutical ingredients like retinoids, peptides and growth factors can address these issues and assist to increase the collagen content of the epidermis to assist with wrinkles and sagging. Pigmentary changes such as melasma and freckles are becoming more noticeable among the Asian group. In comparison to the Fair Skin group though, the Asian group is less likely to develop wrinkles and sagging. Seasonal changes can also have an impact on what ingredients you select. In the cold winter months the skin may require more moisture than in the humid, hot summer months. Conversely, in summertime it is always good to incorporate more antioxidants, namely L- ascorbic acid, niacinamide and alpha lipolic acid, to assist with additional UV protection, especially when the client is outdoors and travelling. Constant use of the same product for a long period is also not a solution as the skin becomes acclimatised to the ingredients and you no longer get the best effect. Swapping ingredients for seasonal changes, or to help specific concerns, will give superior results. Since we cannot all have perfect facial proportions like Angelina Jolie, let’s change the way we consult and assist our clients in having beautiful, healthy, radiant and smooth skin. PB
A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
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Product News
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market IN THE
Our round-up of new products and treatments.
Vivacious vitamin
Silver lining
Exuviance AF Vitamin C20 Serum Capsules boost the anti-ageing effectiveness of your daily beauty routine with 20% maximum strength Vitamin C to help restore firmness, smooth lines, and brighten skin tone. In addition, Vitamin C provides antioxidant protection against environmental damage.
With its antibacterial effect, Janssen Cosmetcs Microsilver Serum is effective for the relief of spots, skin blemishes and stress-induced irritation. The highy effective formula comprises 0.2% micro-silver and 3.5% glycolic acid. Micro-silver has been shown to remove germs and microorganisms on the skin’s surface.
011 545 9300
011 327-3440/1/2
Princely pen Dermapen 4 is the only microneedling device with a dedicated scar setting and protocols for revision of deep, atrophic scars, including post-acne scars. Needle penetration can now be increased up to 3.0mm. AOVN technology automatically calibrates the motor speed, pressure and penetration for targeted precision.
011 545 9300
Pollution busters Matis Beauty Expert has launched two new anti-pollution products in its Youth Response range, namely MatiSCity, a light hydrating cream that reduces premature skin ageing caused by pollution, and Essential Micellar Water, an express make-up remover that gently captures and eliminates all traces of make-up, impurities and atmospheric pollutants.
011 305 1600
>
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Product News
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Food for thought Elemis has launched three new products in its nutrient-dense, vegan friendly Superfood range, namely Facial Wash, Day Cream and Night Cream to join the bestselling, awardwinning Superfood Facial Oil. They are formulated with the pure power of concentrated superfoods for optimal skin health.
Triple strength NeoStrata Skin Active TriTherapy Lifting Serum is formulated with a proprietary triple anti-ageing complex to help volumise slack skin, renew skin tone and smooth rough texture. Key ingredients include Aminofil®, a patented amino acid derivative and Gluconolactone, a poly hydroxy acid (PHA).
011 545 9300
011 325 1000
Absolute aloe On the spot Anesi Beauté’s Luminosity Spot Clear SPF20 is a daily depigmenting cream and the first of its kind to treat dark spots at both epidermal and dermal level. It also unifies the skin tone for a brighter and more radiant look and prevents the appearance of future hyperpigmentation.
0861 126 374
MatsiMela Home Spa has re-launched its Aloe skincare range. The moisture content of the aloe vera leaf averages at 95%. Glycol-nutrients provide the skin with moisture, penetrating not only the epidermis but the dermis and hypodermis. All products are free of SLES (sodium laureth sulfates), parabens, petroleum and colourants.
011 704 7251
Serious serums Sothys has launched six intensive Youth Serums inspired by and created to support dermoaesthetic techniques. They combine high performance formulas concentrated with active ingredients for targeted action. The textures are designed to facilitate the absorption of the active ingredients and enable the layering of several skincare treatment products.
021 701 2900 online @ probeauty.co.za
Product News
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Nocturnal luxury The Time Control Night Cream from Dr. med. Christine Schrammek dermo-cosmetics has an innovative formula that combines anti-glycation with premium matrixyl peptides and antioxidants. Its exclusive combination supports the skin’s natural functions and replenishes moisture while it works overnight.
011 325 5849
Classifieds
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Skinergy for men is the perfect synergy of scientifically formulated products created with natural plant actives. The ideal solution for professional treatments and retail. It is treatment specific skincare for a result based outcome.
Normal skincare starter pack
Tel: +27(12) 804 6443 info@skinergy.co.za | www.skinergy.co.za
Patricia Clarke is looking for an experienced sales representative to join the company in Johannesburg. • Applicant must be willing to travel and have own transport • Applicant must present, promote and sell Patricia Clarke range of products to prospective new salons and spas. For further information, applicants must send their CV’s to Christelle Newsum info.patriciaclarke@gmail.com
Be in the lead with Beauty To advertise your PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND SUPPLIES in this space
Call Micaela on 011 781 5970 online @ probeauty.co.za
Issue 20
May/Jun 2018
Tech update
Nail enhancements latest
Face on
Shutterstock
Resolving staff conflict
timeless artistry Classic nail design
O
nce again, we were delighted to receive so many wonderful entries for NailFile’s Photographic Nail Design Challenge, this time themed ‘Glam Rock’. The intense interest in this on-going competition is testament to the fact that nail techs are always keen to tap into their artistic creativity and the results are fabulous, as they were for the recent ‘Pop Art’ challenge. We run some important articles in this issue, noticeably one on how to resolve staff conflict, something that all salons will experience at one time or another. When you put a whole bunch of different personalities into one relatively small space, it’s inevitable that there will be clashes. As salon owners it’s your challenge to deal with these as quickly and effectively as possible, while remaining impartial and fair. Another fascinating article is that on the evolution of nail enhancements, from their early days in the 1950s until today. To complement this, an article in our Nail Nurture series speaks about the damage that can be done to the natural nail through improper nail enhancement application and removal. Shutterstock
Welcome
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Issue 20
May/Jun 201 8
Nail enh
Tech up
ancement date s latest
timeless a rtistry
Face Resolvin g staff con on flict
Classic na il design
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
What’s inside Nail File
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68
72
57
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News
Technology
Product Hub
Stay in the know
61 Ask the experts
How to resolve staff conflicts
62 Style Savvy
Cool and classic nail design trends
online @ probeauty.co.za
The evolution of nail enhancements
66 Salon Focus
That’s life!
68 Nail health
Nail Nurture – Part 3
The latest launches
72 Top Tech Talk
Roxszane Reevell
57 Business Trends News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips
Lee designs nails for NYFW
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ward-winning South African-born and bred nail artist, Tracey Lee, was invited to design and create nails for runway shows at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) in February. Lee, who is based in The Netherlands, also worked at last year’s NYFW in September, as a result of winning the NAILS Next Top Nail Artist Competition. “What was really amazing is that NYFW invited me to do this year’s show as well, as a guest artist,” says Lee. “It has been the experience of a lifetime.” Nail artists receive briefs from the fashion designers ahead of time and are asked to create templates/ looks. Each brief guides the nail techs in terms of colour palette and functions as a mood board. “If we are very lucky we get a sneak peek at some designs in sketch form,” continues Lee. “Our templates are then consolidated and presented to the designers to make a selection and occasionally adjustments are required. Once a selection has been made, the nail artists are given the go-ahead to go into production. This is sometimes done at home prior to Fashion Week and, in some instances, in the CND Design Lab at Fashion Week when we get there. “My designs have been chosen for Libertine (New York), The Blonds (New York), Gareth Pugh (London), Sophia Webster (London) and Manish Arora (Paris). All of these opportunities were created through the CND Design Lab, which is a consolidation of nail professionals from around the world who come together to work for a united goal at Fashion Week. “For each model it is necessary to create a set of approximately 22
tips, as one does not know ahead of time what nail tip sizes will fit that model. The tips are pre-made and then fitted on the models shortly before they head off to the catwalk, in between hair, make-up and getting dressed. “The sky’s the limit when designing for CND at Fashion Week. Our base products are from the CND line (a consolidation of gel, acrylic, gel polish and nail lacquer). After that, anything goes. We have used computer parts, safety pins, food coloring, chains and so much more to achieve something new and exciting.” For the Libertine Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, Lee created nails
using fringe bought at the Oriental Plaza in Johannesburg. The fringe plummeted from the nails to the runway floor. “Another great set was with the creation of flowers made of computer resistors and buttons, also for Libertine. For Gareth Pugh, we were given a black crushed car as a reference, so I created nails using clear gel covered with cling wrap, scrunched up and then cured before applying black gel polish to finish. It looked just like the structure of the crushed car. Together with the team we created designs from lava lamps to Venus flytraps,” she says.
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Photographic Nail Design Challenge
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O
lnce again winners will receive a one-year free subscription to Professional Beauty & NailFile and exposure in the magazine as well as a prize from the participating sponsor – Bio Sculpture Gel. The NailFile Photographic Nail Design Challenge takes place bimonthly in every issue of NailFile, each with its own exciting and fun theme. SteamPunk is a stylish, slightly sinister mix of Victorian design combined with steampowered machinery, an interesting science fiction genre of a make believe world filled with imagination. Is it the past or is it the future or a bit of both...? You decide! Get it into gear as you explore this wild world, leaving the mind open to creativity and the freedom to design some crazy creations beyond your wildest imagination. Nail stylists can create in any style using flat, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work and techniques. Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate. Designs must be created on a live model on either natural nails or enhancements and not on tips only. Nails must be properly and neatly shaped, with the same shape and length throughout. A combination of products and nail systems may be used. Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work and not copied. Please provide a brief step by step of your work, inspiration behind your design, explanation and photos, which must be submitted by no later than the 30th of June to nailfile@probeauty.co.za Please see full list of Rules & Regulations on www.probeauty.co.za. For more info contact the Competition Director on sonettevr@gmail.com or call 076 585 4191
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ibd Collection inspired by Ramaphosa
I
n honour of the recent inauguration of President Cyril Ramaphosa, ibd, working together with Lindzey Turton of Twincare International, has released a limited collection called, ‘New Dawn – Shades of Change’. Turton was contacted by ibd’s top executives who were inspired by President Ramaphosa’s inauguration speech, in which he said: “A new dawn is upon us…. In celebrating the centenary of Nelson Mandela we are not merely
honouring the past, we are building the future.” Says Turton: “The fact that ibd wanted to create this collection says a lot about how they want to celebrate South Africa. They allowed me to choose six existing ibd shades for the collection, so I looked at the colours of the South African flag for inspiration. This collection, which is meant to be diverse, was created in South Africa by South Africa for South Africa.” ‘New Dawn – Shades of Change’
CND reinvents Vinylux CND has reformulated Vinylux to become what is believed to be the first-ever professional long-wear polish on the market that includes a caring complex, which is infused with keratin, jojoba oil and Vitamin E. This reinvention of Vinylux also includes an Italian-designed,
ergonomic brush that allows for smooth and easy application to enhance service time. “Applying colour has never been easier and more precise, due to our brand new Vynylux brush. I love how the brush hugs the nail; it makes application easy and the coverage flawless,” says Kelly
comprises the following ibd shades: Rocco; Carte Blance; Black Lava; Lucky Red; Turtle Bay; and Blue Haven.
Melanitou, CND international education manager. The revamped Vinylux formula offers a long wear look that has the beautiful finish of a gel polish with the quick and easy removal of a traditional polish. The colour coat is breathable with micro pores for a more aerated-feeling nail bed.
Leighton Denny comes to SA treatments and products, creating innovative solutions formulated with the latest technology that deliver professional results every time. The range includes the Top That! Gel System that can be used with any normal nail polish.
News in pictures
The UK nail brand created by three-time British Nail Technician of the Year, Leighton Denny, is now available in South Africa through distributor Claire Scott. She says: “I discovered the Leighton Denny brand when I was working for Marks & Spencer in London in their marketing department. Marks & Spencer was so impressed with Leighton Denny that they stocked his brand. Having tried the brand I was amazed at how great my nails felt after treating them and I loved the colours they introduced. “Once I researched the brand I realised that it was in some of the most exclusive spas and retailers in the world.” Scott believes that the Leighton Denny brand stands out in the market as it offers an award winning range of
OPI’s international trainer, Lisa Kern, visited Johannesburg recently to meet with distributor, The Prestige Cosmetics Group (PCG) and to launch the new Chrome Effects Mirror-Shine Powders, which work with both lacquer and gel. Kern (right) is pictured with PCG’s LeighAnne Wagner.
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News
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News
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Two in a row for Franks
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resh from winning NailFile’s first ever Photographic Nail Design Challenge (themed ‘Pop Art’), Debora Franks has triumphed again in our second challenge – ‘GlamRock’. In second place was Leandre Kruger, with Anette Coetzee a close third. Courtney Fouché was placed fourth and Larissa Gouws fifth. Competition judge, Sonette van Rensburg, comments on Debora Franks’ winning entry: “The ‘GlamRock’ theme was beautifully interpreted throughout Debora’s entire presentation and in each and every element presented to complement the theme, from the nails through to her step by steps, which showed each and every nail. Her enhancements were beautifully done and shaped, and the composition of the designs was intricate and exceptionally well put together, with a different design on each nail and a continuous flow. I loved the two guitars she did, which were done as part of a nail extension and not 3D. The red guitar, if you look carefully, is in the shape of a shoe.” In terms of runner-up Leandre Kruger’s entry, Van Rensburg liked the fact that she used a variety of different techniques to create her designs. “The theme was very well interpreted by Leandre and flowed throughout all aspects of her nails and presentation. I also loved the way she explained what the theme meant and then created her own little story around that.” According to Van Rensburg, third place runner-up, Anette Coetzee, interpreted the theme ‘so well and in a really fun way’. She continues: “Anette’s designs depicted everything about ‘GlamRock’ and really brought a smile to my face; I especially loved the Kiss characters she did on the thumbs. However, her
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presentation and step by steps were very basic and not well presented to complement the overall theme and her beautiful work.” Regarding fourth placed Courtney Fouche, Van Rensburg says: “This was a really beautifully done set, I loved the shape and composition of the designs. However, Courtney fell short on doing her thumbs though and there was no step by step or presentation. “Larissa Gouws, who came fifth, did a very neat, beautifully done set but not a lot went into the designs, and there were no step by steps or presentation,” concludes Van Rensburg. The NailFile ‘GlamRock’ Photographic Nail Design Challenge was proudly sponsored by Jessica.
61 BusinessBusiness Trends
ask
the experts
QUESTION: How do I deal with conflict in the workplace? LARNA VAN ROOYEN Handling and resolving conflict is one of the main challenges managers and employees face. The challenge lies in how one deals with it, so the ability to identify conflict, understand the nature of it and be able to bring about a swift, painless resolution will serve one well. Common causes for workplace conflict are self-interest, desire for power, jealousy, intolerance, cultural threat, assumptions, ignorance etc. Most conflicts arise from poor communication and overwhelming emotions. Communication: Many conflicts result from lack of communication, poor communication, no information or
misinformation. All of these can quickly evolve into people feeling unimportant and unworthy. Be sure to always have clear, accurate and timely communication with your colleagues. Emotions: Allowing your emotions to drive your decisions in the workplace may often result in conflict. Select your confrontations carefully. Avoid conflict for the sake of conflict. Hidden within many conflict situations lies the opportunity of teaching/learning if you really listen. Conflict will rarely resolve itself. Unresolved conflict often results in loss of productivity, creation of barriers, unwillingness to participate and the risk of losing
valuable team members. Through cooperation, compromise, forgiveness, empathy, actively listening, honesty, fair solutions, understanding, communication and putting service above yourself, dealing with conflict will always be achievable.
misunderstandings or differing opinions. Whatever the reason it must be dealt with immediately. Rules: it’s important to have a set of rules or Code of Conduct in place so make sure you enforce them and that they apply to everyone. Without them there are no guidelines for behaviour. Avoidance: Not dealing with conflict could lead to serious consequences for your business. Rapport: dealing with conflicts successfully is going to depend on your relationship and rapport with your staff. Being too distant can cause your staff to fear you, while being too close can create overfamiliarity. Resolving conflict: Timing is
everything; identify when it’s time to step in or when you need to step away and let things calm down before getting involved. Respect: Make sure any issues or conflicts between staff are dealt with in a positive manner. Be Impartial, listen to all parties involved and mediate the situation in a reasonable way.
Larna van Rooyen is Research and Development assistant for Bio Sculpture International and a NailFile competition winner at Professional Beauty 2017.
SONETTE VAN RENSBURG Working in a salon environment can be quite challenging at times, particularly with a lot of people who have different personalities, so conflict between staff will be inevitable. Some people thrive on conflict and are bullies – this type of person should not be in your salon. When you initially employ someone, it can be difficult to tell immediately whether they are going to get along with the rest of the staff or not. Having good hiring skills and conflict resolution procedures in place will definitely be a plus. Conflicts between staff can result from personality clashes, miscommunication,
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Style Savvy
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Cool & classic
NAIL DESIGN TRENDS
Nails are everywhere – on Facebook, Instagram, fashion blogs, the catwalks and fashion magazines. They are an absolute must have fashion accessory, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
T
he most popular look in nail design that is always in is the definitive classic style, forever timeless and always on trend, offering simplistic, soft lines that exude a classy and elegant yet cool understated mien, that makes heads turn and that looks good on just about anyone. Classic nail designs were hot on the fashion catwalks this season in a myriad of styles that reflect this glamorous look in the most creative ways. With no rules to say what shape or length is in or out, go for what suits you and your client’s style, whether it be short and square, medium in length with a classic oval, or a beautiful ballerina shape, or go more dramatic in a long tapered stiletto, which can look very elegant indeed. Remember that classic doesn’t mean you have to go bare, pale and boring. There are hundreds of imaginative ways and countless possibilities and designs with which to interpret this style; from delicate flowers painted in a variety of colours on a totally clean nail canvas, which is simple but oh so pretty, or just graduating colours using a different hue on each nail within the same colour spectrum, from an assortment of neutrals to more vivid colours. Accent nails gilded in metallic soft rose gold to complement a classic colour on the rest of the nails, or minimalistic lines and designs on nude or barely there shades, are just gorgeous. For a little more glitz and glam, chrome powder can change up a colour and create some unusual effects, especially when embossed with intricate subtle designs in gel. Some rhinestones, diamantes and glitter are stunning and really stand out when added to more stark or modest shades, besides as the classic Hollywood beauty, Marilyn Monroe, once sang, ‘Diamonds are a girl’s best friend!’ Darker tones of mulberry, burgundy and even shades of sapphire blue and emerald green with a touch of shimmer can be just as sophisticated when combined to fade into black. Even the ever popular and never outdated French look has returned, with a bit of a twist. French fades and reverse French with artistic swirls in shades of white look so elegant. Whatever you do, don’t forget the eye catching, gorgeously charming and tasteful forever-classic red, always present in every collection and which can be used in so many extraordinary ways.
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Style Savvy
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CND
EzFlow
Kinetics
Gelish
IBD
Artistic
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Technology
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THE
evolution NAIL ENHANCEMENTS of
N
Sonette van Rensburg looks at the latest innovations in nail enhancement technologies.
ail enhancement products have been around since the mid-1950s, when the first ever products were traditionally made of dental acrylic, consisting of a monomer (liquid) and polymer (powder). The composition of nail products then was nothing like it is today. Through advancements
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in product innovation and technology, professional enhancement products and systems have become less harmful for use on the natural nails. Plus, they offer more variety and are longer lasting. In addition, products are safer, easier to use and provide the freedom to perform a variety of different services, while delivering professional results.
Sometimes technology and products come and go, and then come back again, but with a whole new approach.
Dip system For example, the acrylic dip system is not new, but everyone got super excited when it came back into the market approximately two years ago. However, it was actually first
The ‘newly’ available dip systems, however, are now more advanced in that the activators are brush on rather than in spray form to reduce odour. Furthermore, the powders are also ultra fine for effective absorption of gel or resin, as well as to eliminate too much buffing and filing. Powders are now also available in an array of colours and glitters to achieve just about any look, offering endless opportunities to get creative. Techniques have also changed with this system, so as not to double dip into the powder (which is said to be unhygienic), using special dipping bowls with enough product for each client and discarding the rest. Alternatively, pouring, dusting and sprinkling methods have also been adopted.
Inverted or dual form The inverted or dual form is also making a reappearance where techniques are concerned. This form was used as a method to apply acrylic; it was super quick, easy and resulted in a super shiny nail enhancement without buffing. However, it also came with its own set of challenges. This technique has recently been revisited and is being used with gel systems as well now, with far more successful results.
Leaps and bounds introduced more than 20 years ago, as an easy to apply, no fuss system and way to provide quick enhancement services without having to mix and worry about product consistency and control. It consisted of a resin, an activator and a polymer (acrylic powder). Over the years it was reinvented in different ways and combined with other products, such as gel and even silk and fiber.
Technology has definitely advanced in leaps and bounds with the latest and newest enhancement innovations, which include colour changing and neon powders, monomers that have different characteristics and the most popular, first of its kind hybrid, known under various brands as Polygel, Power Gel, Control Gel, Airgel, Artistic Putty and Acryl Gel. It isn’t a liquid & powder or a gel so what category
Technology
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or system does it fall under? The answer is that it is a revolutionary nail enhancement system like no other, which has never been developed before, an innovative formula combining the best of both in an all in one, pre-mixed system. This is a product that has everything nail techs want and don’t want from a liquid & powder and a hard gel system. The new technology offers a plethora of advantages and benefits, such as being monomer free with no airborne dust, odourless, light and flexible, easy to use and build with as it does not cure immediately like traditional acrylic systems. It can be used to perform a range of different services. Like a gel but easier to use, the product works more like an acrylic, allowing the technician to overlay, extend, shape, form and repair enhancements with ease. There is less filing and reduced wastage as you only use exactly what you need. The new system is also used along with the inverted or dual form to perform super quick enhancement applications.
Salon Focus
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life!
That’s
After her original spa had been part of the Virgin Spa brand before it retracted from South Africa in 2010, Ginene Belo decided to build an entirely new brand called C’est la vie. Joanna Sterkowicz finds out how nails have slotted into the mix.
W
hile C’est la vie, situated in The Ridge Wellness Centre in Randpark Ridge, offers a full range of skincare and aesthetic services, approximately 30% of treatments are generated through hands and feet sales.
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“Our nail, foot and hand services are certainly consistently popular with clients and we stock over 200 colours to suit anybody’s mood,” says C’est la vie owner, Ginene Belo. “I just love new colours and like to stay up to date with what is trending for the season.” Clients get to choose from Gelish, Bio Sculpture Gel, Kinetics,
TruGel and OPI. Belo continues: “I like to offer a variety to suit any need and to never be caught in a situation where we don’t have an option for a client. For all hand and foot treatments we use Wondernail and OPI.” C’est la vie has a nail bar comprised of four manicure stations and a dedicated pedicure
67 Business SalonTrends Focus
area resplendent with three specialised stations that include whirlpool foot basins, massage and light therapy, as well as a beautiful garden to look out onto. A unique feature on the treatment menu is the ‘Preggy pedi’. Belo explains: “Our ‘Preggy pedi’ is different from a normal pedi in that we use pregnancy safe products (i.e. Mama Mio). There is this wonderful product called Lucky Legs Leg Gel which, when you are eight months pregnant, helps to soothe tired legs and swollen feet.” C’est la vie’s five therapists all do nail services along with other treatments, but two of them focus more on nails.
Popular services Belo reports that Gelish, OPI and Kinetics, all being paint on gel, are a quick enough service for her very busy clients and thus always popular. As to whether there is a big demand for nail art at C’est la vie, Belo says: “We have some clients that absolutely love nail art and we have some clients that just like the classic look. Ombre is a biggie in terms of nail art trends. As for glitter, everyone gets very excited when there is new glitter on our shelves.” Belo stresses that customer service is obviously of utmost importance at C’est la vie because the customer is the business. “We are selling a service and we strive to make sure every customer feels as if they are our one and only (even if it is just for an hour or two). C’est la vie likes to give
that little bit extra – we know our clients and we love them, from their names to how many sugars they like in their coffee or tea, to how short they like their nails, to only two coats please. “Every week we look forward to presenting the new colours or styles. In addition we have a passion for our trade and focus on the best for each individual client.”
History Belo first opened her spa in 2008 in a small shop in Little Falls, which was orginally known as Virgin Spa Lifestyle Crossing. “When Virgin Spa retracted its franchise from South Africa
I thought, ‘C’est la vie’, which means, ‘such is life’, in French. So I decided to continue the business as C’est la vie spa. I had been looking for a bigger space from the original 75 square metres shop for about a year and then my fatherin-law actually came across an ad auctioning the building we are currently situated in. He and my husband went to the auction and were successful in their bid and this is when the action plan for C’est la vie spa Randpark Ridge started.” In terms of design and décor, Belo opted for an open plan, clean, tranquil and inviting environment. “We have a beautiful garden situated in the center of the building filled with silver birch trees, which really is the centre of it all.” She has been in the industry for 10 years but does not do hand and nail services herself, rather focusing on eyelash extensions and brow services. “I pride myself in vetting our therapists’ passion for their trade, ensuring they in turn take pride in their work,” concludes Belo.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Nail Health
68
Nail Nurture – Part 3:
Incorrect use OF NAIL PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS
I
In this article Sonette van Rensburg discusses the harmful effects resulting from the incorrect use of nail products and chemicals.
often hear clients complaining that they will never wear nail coatings or enhancements again, as it damages their nails, or that they have developed an allergy from them. Most often products and brands are blamed when things go wrong, but we need to look at the real reasons for this. Sadly, a lot of the damage and reactions that occur are caused by nail techs who do not have the proper knowledge or skills to work with nail products. This is due to the easy availability of so many
online @ probeauty.co.za
different brands and products, some of which do not have the appropriate training or information to ensure safe and proper use. All nail products contain certain ingredients which assist with the chemical composition of the product. These ingredients will vary from brand to brand as will the quality of the raw materials used. The cost of a product is often determined by this, so the more expensive they are, the better the quality. Cheap products which are easily available but have
Everything except for light and electricity is a chemical, even water. All nail products contain chemical ingredients so in actual fact there is no such thing as ‘chemical free’.
no training and support may contain some of the same active ingredients, but will most definitely not contain the same quality or quantity of raw materials that are used in professional nail products as purchased from reputable distributors. Most professional products come with a set of MSD (Material Safety Data) sheets, which provide information on the ingredients and whether they are toxic or not and how to deal with any accidental spillages, ingestion or overexposure. If a product does not list ingredients, it’s a sure sign to stay away. Everything except for light and electricity is a chemical, even water. All nail products contain chemical ingredients so in actual fact there is no such thing as ‘chemical free’. While some chemicals are more volatile and dangerous than others, the ones used in most professional nail products have been formulated to be as safe as possible. However, no nail product or
Nail Health
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chemical is completely free from all risks. Even those deemed normally safe could be potentially harmful, causing skin irritation, rashes, burns and allergic reactions if improper protocols are followed.
Skin reactions and allergies One of the major causes of skin reactions and allergies is due to over exposure to products and the way we work with them. Don’t allow nail products, particularly monomers, primers and even gel, to touch the skin while working on a client. They may not react immediately, however prolonged, continuous overexposure could lead to a reaction and eventually an allergy. Be careful when working on clients you know are sensitive or are allergy prone; this can be established through a thorough consultation to ascertain what they are allergic to. Make sure you know your products to avoid using ingredients you shouldn’t work with. Use nail products according to brand protocols and teaching guides; always use systems from a particular brand together – do not mix and match. Do not do anything against your professional know how, even if your client insists.
Chemical damage to the nail plate Most damage to the nail plate is usually caused by mechanical damage and the incorrect application and removal procedures
of nail enhancements and coatings. However, chemicals could damage the nail plate as well, if not used correctly. No nail enhancement product just eats into the natural nail plate but they can dehydrate the nail plate and cause sensitivity with overuse. Primers should be used sparingly. Acetone, usually found in soak-off products, is quite a volatile solvent so take precautions to protect your client’s nails and skin by using a barrier around the cuticles and skin and keep soaking to a minimum. Also nourish and rehydrate your client’s skin and nails after soaking and removing products and recommend cuticle oils and home care products. It’s how you use nail product chemicals that will make all the difference and be imperative to your success. I would like to thank renowned scientist, Doug Schoon, for his incredible knowledge, mentorship and input, which has contributed to this article.
online @ probeauty.co.za
70 In the Market
Product
HUB
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.
Going all Bohemian Upbeat and highly pigmented shades of red heat up CND’s new Boho Spirit Collection. The tones evoke thoughts of warm sunsets in indie orange and desert rose. Combinations of dark ginger and fiery coral brighten up the medley of colours. Boho Spirit is available in both Shellac and Vinylux Long Wear Polish options.
0861 126 374
Platinum power Morgan Taylor has launched its first ever Holographic Collection. With its chrome logo and ultra luxe cap, Platimum embraces pure excess with rich textures, effects and additives that give extended wear. Platinum contains features six opulent holographic shades – from a sparkling silver and luxe lilac, to magnificent mint green and plush pink.
011 447 0659
Finishing touch The Artistic No Cleanse Sealer is a quick and easy universal top coat to finish Artistic Nail Design’s new Putty Polygel System, or any other nail enhancements. As its name suggests, the sealer does not need to be cleansed post application.
011 305 1600 online @ probeauty.co.za
At the ‘Resort’ Nail techs can get swept away with the Resort Collection from Young Nails, which is inspired by the alluring looks of an island wedding. Colours are: Heart You; In the Moment; Nom Nom; and Always a Bridesmaid. The Resort Collection is available in Go Time Gel Polish, with matching Caption Polishes.
011 393 2791 online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Trends In the Market
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Chills! Gelish’s Winter 2018 Collection (also available in Morgan Taylor formula), is ‘a Freezing Good Time’. The collection is filled with six wintry tones – from a deep sultry red to a purple. Also included is ICE Cold Gold, a special effect shade that can be worn alone or over any colour in the collection, to create a frosted gold glimmer.
011 447 0659
Glorious gel GEL-iT Colour Soak Off Gel Polish is high-gloss, long lasting and chip proof. It is available in the fastest growing colour palette in Africa, from subtle shimmers to striking bolds with trendy surprises.
011 608 3153 online @ probeauty.co.za
Q&A
72
Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to nail tech, Roxszane Reevell of Life Day Spa Rosebank, about her abiding passion for nails. When did your interest in nails first begin? I developed a passion for nails at a young age while still at school, and was always doing my family’s nails as well as my own. In fact, I believe I was born with a passion for beauty, nails and therapy. I have been in the beauty industry since 2009.
Do you specialise only in nail, hand and foot treatments? I specialise in LCN for both hands and feet. In addition, I’m also part of an amazing team at Life Day Spa and we focus on 5-star treatments such as advanced facials and body treatments, massages and hand and foot treatments. I also specialise in Thai massage and have been doing it for four years now. Basically I love working with the human body.
What training in nails have you done? I started with Nails for you, where I did acrylic dip and then went to Nail City for a full acrylic nail course. Thereafter I did the Sparkle Gelish basic training and am currently busy with LCN.
What do nails mean to you? Every set of nails is a work of art. Not one set is the same as another. I am the artist that creates all this individuality and I get the most satisfaction when a customer gets up from my station with a one-in-a-million look.
I don’t personally have a favourite form of nail art to perform, but even if I say it myself, I am very good with glitter ombre and I explore a lot with different shapes and base colours.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Please provide a brief trajectory of your career. I started my beauty career with Bobbi Brown Make-up, before going to the Mother City – Cape Town – and working at Mukda Thai Spa, where I specialised in Thai massage. I then found my way back to Joburg and worked
at Renaissance, RUB Salon and lastly, Life Day Spa Rosebank, which I joined in January 2018.
What do you enjoy about doing nails in a spa environment? I must say that working here is very calming for the clients and myself. At the end of the day it’s all about my clients’ experience at Life Day Spa Rosebank.
What is your favourite nails, hands or foot treatment to perform? LCN is my favourite because it is a very flexible product. You can give clients any shape or length they want in a single application.
Is there a demand for nail art in the spa? The majority of my clients request glitter, ombre and base colour. I don’t personally have a favourite form of nail art to perform, but even if I say it myself, I am very good with glitter ombre and I explore a lot with different shapes and base colours.
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