AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
incorporating
FEEL LIKE A PEEL?
CHEMICAL PEELING MODALITIES
WELLNESS IN THE WORKPLACE HEALTHY TIMES AHEAD
LOCAL FLAVOUR SOUTH AFRICAN SKINCARE BRANDS
Mar/Apr 2019 | probeauty.co.za
Get the recognition you deserve by entering the Professional Beauty Awards You work hard to improve your salon, spa, staff, skills and business and a Professional Beauty Award is a sign of excellence and recognition that you have been judged by industry experts to be a leader in your field. A fantastic reward for anyone working in the professional beauty industry. An award that is judged by the industry, for the industry, an opportunity to show the world how good you, your staff and your spa or salon perform. • • • • •
Open to individuals and companies alike Be recognised by your peers Great for team building and staff morale Show that you are at the top of your profession Free to enter A coveted accolade that will give you an additional edge over your competitors and help boost your profile. Go on line at www.probeauty.co.za and click on the ‘Awards’ tab.
Winners will be announced at the Professional Beauty Gala Dinner to be held at The Venue, Melrose Arch on Sunday the 23rd of Feb 2020
a new opportunity to increase your brand profile AWARDS & CONFERENCE 2020 THE VENUE, MELROSE ARCH 23 – 24 FEBRUARY 2020
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22
In this issue...
31
Regulars
Spa Focus
Special Features
5 Industry news
26 New management strategy for Jiva Spa
31 The real peel deal
Local and international news
42 Crowning glory
What’s hot and happening in the hair ndustry
46 In the market
News from the Professional Body
Business 12 Ask the Experts
All your questions answered
15 Insider
Tracking the industry with stats
16 When the lights go out
Making the spa accessible to the local market
29 Speaker Spotlight – Melinda Yon
Q&A with WSW Africa Convention keynote speaker
All the latest launches
50 SAAHSP
How to trade during power outages
Software 30 What the app? Salon booking systems
Chemical peeling unpacked
33 The big reveal
Treatment review
34 When beauty is skin deep
Latest peels
36 Heal & protect
After care
38 At the heart of South Africa
Local brands
Medical Aesthetics 44 Prime selection
Choosing the right range for your clinic
Nails 51 NailFile Issue 26
18 Cosmetics approval – the rundown
Explaining FDA approval claims
20 Talking to…Teresa Mordoh
New Dermalogica SA CEO
22 Why individual and workplace wellness matters
‘A good state of health’ defined
36 online @ probeauty.co.za
Welcome
2
A
s any serious beauty professional will tell you, it takes a great deal of time, formal training, effort, money and experience to reach that level of competence and expertise where, in good conscience, you are able to offer top notch, hygienic and safe services to consumers. So, it’s not surprising that a recent article in Cosmopolitan South Africa magazine claiming that no formal training is required to become a make-up artist generated such a heated reaction from the industry, as our lead news story on page 5 reveals. We conducted a survey on our Facebook page to see what you thought of the article and received dozens of outraged responses. We include in this issue an article on epigenetics, a science that connects lifestyle and its impact on ageing. Written by an expert, the article will show how epigenetics relates to skincare. The winter months offer the perfect time to market chemical peels to your clients as a treatment modality to address a variety of skincare conditions, such as fine lines & wrinkles, sun damage, acne, enlarged pores, dull skin and pigmentation, to mention a few. Peels are usually most effective when sold as a course, thereby generating income for your salon. Plus, they offer the perfect opportunity to retail the appropriate post peel products to clients. We look at some of the latest peels available on the market. Each year at this time, we put the focus on proudly, home grown South African brands and in this instance on several that have endured for a long time in a very tough market. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA
AT THE HEART OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY BUSINESS
incorporating
Subscribe 7 issues for R510 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
Publisher Mark Moloney
011 781 5970
Managing Director Yolanda Knott
083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za
Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970
phil@probeauty.co.za
Editor Joanna Sterkowicz
011 781 5970
joanna@probeauty.co.za
Art Director Alois Sajanga
011 781 5970
alois@probeauty.co.za
Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970 Sales Manager Alexandra Norvall
FEEL LIKE A PEEL?
CHEMICAL PEELING MODALITIES
WELLNESS IN THE WORKPLACE HEALTHY TIMES AHEAD
LOCAL FLAVOUR SOUTH AFRICAN SKINCARE BRANDS
Mar/Apr 2019 | probeauty.co.za
On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com
mark@probeauty.co.za
stacey@tetradeevents.com
082 880 2047 alex@probeauty.co.za
Cape Town Sales Executive Carla Hamman 084 894 6172 carla@probeauty.co.za Sales Executive Pholani Sithole
011 781 5970
pholani@probeauty.co.za
Sales Admin Assistant & Subscriptions Michelle Scheepers 011 781 5970 michelle@tetradeevents.com
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com
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5 News
News Cosmo article sparks industry outrage An article published in the April 2019 issue of Cosmopolitan South Africa claiming that no formal training is required to become a make-up artist has sparked outrage and dismay in the professional beauty industry. Entitled ‘Start a Beauty Side Hustle’ and penned by Erin Stovall, the article quotes a self-proclaimed make-up artist who says she learnt everything on YouTube. Professional Beauty conducted a survey on its Facebook page to gauge the industry’s reaction to the article: (https://www.facebook. com/ProBeautySA/photos/a.42691 3056656/10156067322091657/?typ e=3&theater) Janine Pillay wrote: “As an educated professional this article infuriates me. Now in an already saturated industry there will be lots of self-taught artists undercutting professionals who have spent thousands of rands getting a proper education.
“I feel the ‘Side Hustle’ is also unintentionally promoting the purchase of black market products. It’s a hustle after all, so why not purchase counterfeit products whilst you’re at it, right?” Lynn Hoff wrote: “A fashion magazine of all things should never have undermined our profession. My 27 years in the industry now mean nothing as Cosmpolitan magazine feels anyone can just watch YouTube videos on make-up applications, buy some make-up and do it as a ‘side hustle’. Not cool.” Samantha Gage Kruger wrote: “I am really upset that they published this article. I took out a loan and studied part time while working two jobs in order to study and qualify in order to call myself a make-up artist. They wouldn’t see this being ok if this was an article, for example, where a person was starting a side hustle as a doctor etc. Why should this
be acceptable for make-up artists? They have cheapened the industry and they have taken away the privilege of being able to call yourself a make-up artist.” Lizel Van Der Westhuizen wrote: “This is very unfair to us professionals that spend thousands of rands to get qualified! I had to waitress and do extra part-time work to pay for my studies as I didn’t have parents or a sponsor to pay for me. I still pay for extra courses to stay current and give my clients the best value for money!” Karien Henrico wrote: “We are all trying to improve our industry, things like this can destroy the credibility we have!!” Professional Beauty reached out to Cosmopolitan South Africa via email and Facebook to see if they wished to defend the article, but received no response prior to going to print on 7 May.
Professional Beauty Awards on the move The prestigious annual Professional Beauty Awards (incorporating the Industry Awards) is changing to a new date. Normally the awards gala dinner takes place at the same time as the Johannesburg Professional Beauty Expo. Therefore, there will be no awards event during 2019. The next awards will take place on the evening of 23 February 2020 at The Venue in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg. During the day, Professional Beauty will host a high level conference focused on the business aspects of running salons and spas, featuring expert speakers. Commenting on the change, Phil Woods, commercial director of Professional Beauty South Africa, says: “We decided to move the awards to a separate date in order to give the whole process more focus. There is an awful lot that
goes on behind the scenes, what with the judging process and putting the actual event together. This move gives us a great opportunity to create an exceptional awards and gala evening and we are really excited for the future of the awards. “We have some great sponsors
on board (Sparkle Cosmetics, Imbalie Beauty and Looking Good LCN), and regard this as a great opportunity for the industry to celebrate the excellence within the professional beauty sector.” A call for entry will be issued during June 2019.
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News
6
inbrief // DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care
World first for Saxon Spa
recently hosted a training workshop at
Urban Beauty Lounge in Cape Town, focusing on new protocols, the plasma pen, microneedling pen, EpiBlade techniques and bloodborne pathogens.
// Imbalie Beauty has launched a
learnership programme that will see 10 postMatric students eligible to receive beauty skills training every month at the Imbalie Beauty Training Academy, at no charge.
// Onda , manufactured by DEKA , was recently honoured as the best non-invasive technology for body shaping at the Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine World Conference and also received the 2018 Aesthetic Guide award for best technology.
// Acclaimed German skincare brand, QMS Medicosmetics , has launched its brand new packaging , reflecting a more modern, premium look.
// Following its acquisition by Syneron Candela, Danish laser and IPL company, Ellipse, will now be distributed in South Africa by Radiant Healthcare.
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In a world first, the Saxon Spa in Johannesburg has created a new Molton Brown Signature Journey, which launched in early May. Says Saxon Spa manager, Tanya Lopes: “It is a great honour to be given the privilege of designing a treatment for such a prestigious brand as Molton Brown. We’ve been partners with them for over nine years and have built up a good relationship with Molton Brown International. “As the brand’s signature Orange and Bergamot Range has always been a favourite amenity in the Saxon Hotel, I proposed the possibility of developing a treatment that could highlight the range within the spa journey. On my recent trip to London, I pitched the treatment to Molton Brown headquarters and they approved it
and gave us the go-ahead.” The is the first time that Molton Brown will be used in treatment as up to now the brand has been used in the spa and hotel as an amenity, as well as a retail range. Lopes described the Molton Brown Signature Journey as ‘a highly therapeutic treatment that offers the ultimate bodily and mental rejuvenation, with a healing combination of exfoliation, steam and massage techniques that boost circulation, detoxification, skin renewal and overall relaxation’. It was developed over a period of six months by Lopes together with assistant spa manager, Danielle Hoffman-Snell, and three head therapists.
New GM for Umngazi Nicole Craig has been appointed general manager of the multiple award-winning Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa in the Eastern Cape. Says Craig: “I am excited for this new chapter in my life. My background in the spa and beauty industry is limited, having previously been office manager at the Rhodes University Business School. “Umngazi Spa already has an incredibly high standard and our beautiful therapists, under the supervision of Cathriner Maquthu and Kheli Skosana, are constantly maintaining that high standard with their treatments and attention to detail. I would like to enhance that feeling of well-being for our guests, so that they leave with a deeper sense of balance and harmony between the body and the mind. A feeling of having been pampered in a unique and relaxing environment.”
News
8
LCN Aesthetic Beauty Spa opens Looking Good LCN recently opened the LCN Aesthetic Beauty Spa in Pretoria East. Says founder Lea Castro: “The LCN beauty brand has grown from strength to strength in the South African beauty industry over the last 17 years and has expanded to include advanced artificial nails as well as natural nail, hand, foot, make-up, eyelash extensions, microblading, facial, body and spa products. “LCN Aesthetic Beauty Spa was born out of a vision I had in 2018 of starting internship programmes to upskill students in the beauty
industry. The time, energy and money that needs to go into grooming a student like this proved to be very taxing on the salon owners and ended in frustration and failure. “So, in order to run these internship and mentorship programmes successfully, it was necessary to build the LCN Aesthetic Beauty Spa, which is essentially for training purposes. “My goal is to produce highly skilled and confident therapists, as well as nail technicians, who can step into a job and flourish.”
Elysium Aesthetic Holdings launched Centurion-based Elysium Aesthetic Holdings (formerly Ellipse SA) has launched as the umbrella company for Oa Skin Enhance SA, MedArt SA and Fotona SA. Says Elysium’s Rohan Opperman: “Oa Skin Enhance is based on Hypochlorous Acid, which is the body’s own immune molecule found in our white blood
cells. While the body does produce this molecule naturally, the Oa product helps speeds up the skin’s recovery process. “Oa was one of the first companies in the world to develop a formula that keeps the Hypochlorous Acid molecule stable in a bottle. It has the patent rights for its own formula and is
registered with the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority.” MedArt is a Danish company founded in 1979 that specialises in various types of CO2 laser systems. Elysium also distributes Fotona systems, primarily, Nd:YAG; Er:YAG and Q:Switch.
New SA teen range on market Renate Klass of Futurethis South Africa has launched her very own skincare range, Rites, which is targeted specifically at the teen market. Says Klass: “During the development process I worked closely with a doctor who had acne as a kid and who understood exactly what I wanted. I seconded
my teenage niece to advise us through all avenues and processes of the product. She is responsible for the look, feel and scent of the products, the design of the packaging, our website and social media.” The Rites range is 100% locally manufactured and packaged. All products were endorsed by a
dermatologist before the brand and product names were decided on.
Lemi celebrates 30 years Italian salon and spa furniture manufacturer, Lemi, is celebrating its 30th birthday by launching two new beds – Verona and Verona Evo – through distributor, The Spa Warehouse. Says Jacoline Wentzel of The Spa Warehouse: “We have been
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representing the Lemi range in the South African and Mauritius spa market for the last six years. Lemi is one of the world’s leading manufacturers of superior quality spa, medical and chiropody treatment beds. It is used in some of the top medical practices and 5-star spas like the One&Only Group in South Africa and Mauritius.”
News
10
Top hydro spa experiences revealed Salt therapy, flotation and Kneipp therapy are among the top hydrothermal spa and wellness experiences announced in the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) Hydrothermal Initiative. In 2019, GWI predicts the use of salt in thermal cabins to soar as spas start putting the health benefits of salt to the fore. The popularity of designer salt rooms in spas has increased in recent years and GWI expects that thermal rooms with or without salt walls will add functional salt systems, such as halogenerators for distributing fine particles of dry salt, or a nebuliser for a steam-style inhalation of salt. Benefits include better respiratory health and improvement in skin
conditions such as acne, rashes and eczema. Kneipp therapy is a popular introduction to the health benefits of hot and cold contrast therapy. The GWI report states: “Evidence around the benefits of hot and cold contrast therapy is mounting and has resulted in a greater interest in treatments, such as snow rooms, snow showers and cold plunge pools. Certain manufacturers have introduced specialist ‘deluge’ showers and waterfalls that are specifically aimed at the spa and wellness market.” According to the GWI, while floatation therapy promised to be a big trend in the 1990s, it never
quite took off. “However, now seemingly every new hydrothermal project is incorporating a floatation element – from fully enclosed pods, to the more popular open tubs that mitigate any claustrophobic element of floatation, to large scale, multisensory pools that offer flotation, light and underwater sound therapy. An extension of this trend is a resurgence of Watsu pools for therapist-led floatation therapy.” For more information about the GWI Hydrothermal Initiative, log on to https:// globalwellnessinstitute.org/ initiatives/hydrothermal-initiative/ hydrothermal-trends/
Beauté Pacifique scientific team visits SA Leading Danish cosmeceutical and medical skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, recently re-launched into the South African market, concurrent with the release of the brand’s Masculinity range in 26 African countries. A launch event was hosted in Johannesburg by Beauté Pacifique’s African distributor – Blue Sky International. Special guests were Beauté Pacifique’s scientific team, comprising the brand’s co-founder, Flemming Christensen and Professor Steffen Petersen, head of peptide engineering. Accompanying them were the brand’s international educator, Mia Groth Hansen and Soeren Hedegaard, international hair & make-up artist and special envoy to Her Royal Highness Crown Princess Mary of Denmark. Said Blue Sky CEO, Wayne La Grange: “A new era has dawned in South Africa with the advent of patented cosmeceuticals and nutriceuticals. Now for the first time, we’ve been able to look below the skin with the DermaScan device – an ultrasound
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scanning technology developed by Flemming Christensen and Beauté Pacifique’s sister company, Cortex Technologies.”
La Grange revealed that a Beauté Pacifique Development Centre is currently under construction in South Africa, in the Magaliesberg.
New moves at Babor Shannon Mnisi has joined Babor South Africa as a skincare product trainer. Mnisi studied Somatology at the University of Johannesburg and subsequently worked on Steiner’s Norwegian Pearl Cruise Liner. She has also worked in Johannesburg at Sorbet Morningside and the Pyramid Day Spa. Most recently she was at the Saray Spa in Dubai. “I’m very excited to start my new journey with Babor South Africa,” she says.
Business Tips
12
ask
the EXPERTS
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
What is epigenetics and how does it relate to skincare? Epigenetics is the science that connects lifestyle and its impact on ageing. It has the ability to reverse or modify how your body ages by adopting positive lifestyle practices. Your environment and lifestyle choices can literally change how your genes work and these changes can be passed down to your children. Epigenetics is defined as the study of changes in organisms caused by modification of gene expression, rather than alteration of the genetic code itself. According to scientists, approximately 75% of skin ageing is due to external factors whilst around 25% is due to our genes. For skin to be healthy and youthful, the cells need to regenerate and for that they need to be good at producing protein. So, what are the conditions that negatively impact our skin?
Common triggers Chronic inflammation underpins most chronic illnesses. Your lifestyle and environmental exposure will be expressed by your skin. The six most common triggers for chronic inflammation are: environmental toxins and over exposure to sunlight; stress; lack of
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sleep; obesity and insulin resistance; exercise; and poor diet. You need 20 minutes in the sun without sunscreen and enough skin exposure, to produce enough Vitamin D for optimal health. In women, vitamin D deficiency has been linked to osteoporosis, depression, Alzheimer’s, heart disease and cancer development. Exposure to toxins in your environment, especially from tap water, the polluted air in major cities, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides used in farming areas, gardens and around schools are major triggers of chronic inflammation. Most of us need seven to eight hours of sleep a night, but most importantly, we need to develop a sleep hygiene regime. Try to switch off all technology by 21h00. Read the data surrounding exposure to ‘blue light’, especially in our children. Abnormalities in our stress hormones can affect your capacity to cope with a hectic schedule. Too much adrenalin and noradrenalin negatively impact your cardiac and digestive systems. Insulin resistance is one of the major contributors of systemic inflammation. Many South Africans
have the genetic SNPs (Single Nucleotide Polymorphisms) associated with insulin resistance. This means your body does not have the ability to use sugar as fuel. The WHO (World Health Organisation) has recommended for adults 20 to 30 minutes of exercise five times per week. Over exercising can create oxidation, necessitating consumption of extra antioxidants.
You are what you eat Reducing the effect of inflammatory foods will make a huge difference. Sugar, gliadin (a protein in gluten) and A1 casein in dairy are particularly inflammatory. The reduction in inflammation will be felt by your gut lining, your brain and your skin. If your skin is inflamed, ageing prematurely, dry and flaky, or just looking dull, address the epigenetic factors that could be impacting it negatively.
Dr Helen Muir Is the Medical Practitioner for the Health Optimizing Royal Retreat at the Santé Wellness Retreat and Spa outside Paarl in the Western Cape. helenm@santeretreat.co.za
How do I know which salon software is right for my business? Choosing the right software to run your salon is crucial because it takes energy and resources to implement a software system. The starting point is to ensure that the software is salon specific. There are a lot of good systems out there but if they are designed for either generic application or another specific industry, then they probably won’t be the best fit for your salon. For example, if you choose a generic point of sale system or an accounting system, then it will probably not include bookings, client relationship management, or other idiosyncratic features like courses of treatments, packages, consultation cards and so on. If you do choose a system that is not industry specific, then you will most likely need to use a combination of different systems to get the functionality you require and the systems will most likely not communicate with each other, meaning duplication of data and processes as well as a lack of good reporting.
Comprehensive features Your software should meet immediate needs and those of the foreseeable future. The primary functions are to facilitate control and growth in your business. Control will help you manage costs and improve efficiencies and growth will enable you to improve client retention and spend per visit. Therefore, control should cover features like bookings, point of sale, cashing up each day, stock control down to the millilitre, salaries, finances, communications and reporting (and a host of other areas). Growth should be facilitated through the ability to do marketing to clients, retain clients through loyalty schemes, ensure scalability for multi-branch operations and so on.
Business Intelligence reporting should be the mechanism to implement both control and growth.
Support Over the years I have seen many software systems appear and then disappear in the South African salon space. Sometimes this has nothing to do with the pros and cons of the actual software itself but rather the company behind the software. For example, if a company is just a reseller of someone else’s software then they will have a different approach to a company that builds, sells and maintains its own software. The former will be affected by things like exchange rates and will not be able to adapt as quickly to market needs in the
local arena. If the margins for reselling someone else’s software no longer make sense, then it’s just as easy to stop being a reseller and disappear. It’s generally better to work with a company that has autonomy over their software features and pricing and provides good services along with their software, as in many cases engagement is required between salon owners and software providers to partner together for the long term growth and control of the salon through the software system.
Chris Parker is the MD of ESP Salon & Spa Software, where he has worked for the past 20 years. chris@esponline.co.za
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Business Tips
13
It could never happen to you…right?
But what if it did? The client’s skin reacts to a treatment, perhaps you forgot to do a patch test…maybe? Or somehow damaged the cuticle during a nail treatment…. They get an infection and demand compensation. Whatever the reason, these things happen and somebody has to pay!
Will your insurance cover this? For full product indemnity insurance at an affordable price, contact Monique Joubert for a chat. E: monique@probeauty.co.za
INSURANCE
Peace of mind for you and your clients
15 Business Trends
Insider
Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in March 2019.
Insider Spa
There was positive news from South African spas regarding treatment business during March compared to the same time last year, as most of you reported an increase. This fact was more true of hotels and destination spas as opposed to day spas, though. In Cape Town, spas were able to reap the benefits of the improving drought situation and the resultant increase of travellers to the city. Some other spas elsewhere in the country reported only a slight increase, which might be attributed to treatment price increases. Retail business was the complete opposite – very much down, due to decreasing guest spend. We asked you how you add value to treatments and the overwhelming response was to add little touches all through the spa journey, to make the guest feel special. This includes complimentary welcome drinks and health snacks, welcoming foot rituals, as well as heated beds, slippers and bean bags. Regarding whether you use sheet masks which have been trending lately, as opposed to the more traditional masks, the majority of you said no.
Insider Salon
While treatment business in March 2019 increased slightly as compared to Ferbruary, it was decidely down when compared to March 2018. Reasons cited were the poor economy, rising fuel prices and political uncertainty. Retail sales fared much worse than treatment business as you reported that while clients may be willing to spend on treatments, they are cutting back on buying professional products. When we asked you how you add value to treatments, some of you said you might offer a complimentary hand massage during facials, or perform a complimentary lip wax. Regarding the use of sheet masks in facials, we discovered that while a few salons have introduced this relatively new form of mask into treatments, the majority still use more traditional masks. PB
The month in numbers
SALON 57
SPA 64 AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
%
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?
68% 9% 23% BETTER
SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?
8% BETTER
12% SAME
80% WORSE
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?
46% 3% 51% BETTER
SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN MARCH 2019 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2018?
4% BETTER
11%
85% WORSE
SAME
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Business Tips
16
When the
lights go
R
out
ight from the beginning when I was setting up Hines and Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge in Parktown North, Johannesburg, I wanted it to be self-sustaining and able to run off the grid in the event of power outages. We are situated in a lovely house in Parkhurst, Johannesburg, which has lots of windows so there is a good natural light. However, load shedding after 5pm is a bit of a problem but in that event we use re-chargeable LED lights. The salon’s music is run off a tablet so there is always music during power outages. As the majority of our business is haircuts and beard trims, I’ve invested in cordless Wahl clippers and of course scissors don’t require any electricity. Our work phone is a mobile phone so we have no need for a landline that runs off electricity. In addition, our point of sale and bookings are run off tablets. We use my mobile phone as a hotspot to access the internet. Hines and Harley’s payment transactions are done via SnapScan
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South Africa’s beauty industry continues to be affected by the electricity crisis, having to contend with power cuts of up to four hours at a time. Professional Beauty asked JARED HINES of Hines and Harley how he maintains services during load shedding and how he uses the situation to his salon’s advantage.
and iKokha. SnapScan is a payment app that is downloaded free onto a customer’s smart phone so that they can make quick and easy payments from their phones, while iKokha is a portable card machine.
Business as usual, almost During load shedding we don’t shut the salon at all. The only service we can’t do is waxing as it requires the wax to be heated. We do have a small generator installed outside the house to keep one hot cabinet warm for towels and to run the watercooler. This also supplies hot water for facials and shaving treatments. We don’t use taps at all. Whenever there is load shedding we push facials, manicures and pedicures to clients.
Specials During power outages, Hines and Harley offers discounts on massages, as follows: • 10% discount during Stage 1 load shedding • 15% discount during Stage 2 load shedding
• 20% discount during Stage 3 load shedding • 25% discount during Stage 4 load shedding This strategy has proved very successful and we’ve hooked lots of guys for massages. Most of our clients come in for shaves and cuts but now we have many clients who didn’t have massages before specifically waiting for load shedding so that they can have discounted massages. The whole point of Hines and Harley is to make a difference in the industry for the greater good, so if any other salons can benefit from the above information then all the better. PB
Jared Hines became a qualified aesthetician and somatologist in 2008.He has worked at leading South African spas, including Mount Grace and the Spa at the Saxon Hotel, where he won the World Luxury Spa Awards African Spa Manager of the Year in 2015. His own business, Hines and Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge, won the Professional Beauty Award for Best Men’s Grooming Salon 2017 and 2018. Hines also won the Best Salon/Spa Manager for 2017. jared@hinesandharley.co.za
Busi-
17
Business Tips
18
Cosmetics approval
THE RUNDOWN
Professional Beauty asked DR COBUS VAN NIEKERK, president of AAMSSA (Aesthetic & Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa) to clarify issues pertaining to claims of FDA approval of cosmetic products.
T
he FDA (Federal Drug Administration of America) website (https://www. fda.gov/) states the following relating to the VOLUNTARY COSMETIC REGISTRATION PROGRAM (VCRP) • The VCRP is a voluntary registration system for cosmetic products as defined by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act), section 201(i). Drugs are subject to different FDA registration and marketing requirements (FD&C Act, sec. 510; 21 CFR 207). Depending on the claims made, some cosmetic products may also be drugs. If a cosmetic product is also a drug, it must comply with the requirements for both cosmetics and drugs. Additional information on these types of products is available elsewhere on FDA’s website. For example, you may wish to refer to “Is It a Cosmetic,
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It is thus clear that no company can make a claim that it is FDA APPROVED when selling cosmetics, as it is only a voluntary registration process. a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?).” If your products are drugs, or both cosmetics and drugs, see “Drug Registration and Listing System (DRLS & eDRLS)” and “Electronic Drug Registration and Listing Instructions.”
Responsibility It’s important to note that the VCRP is not a cosmetic approval program or a promotional tool.
Cosmetics are not subject to FDA premarket approval. It is the firm’s responsibility to ensure that its cosmetic products and ingredients are safe and properly labeled, in full compliance with the law. Please note that registration of a cosmetic establishment, assignment of an establishment registration number, filing a cosmetic product, or assignment of a CPIS number does not mean that FDA has approved the firm or its products (21 CFR 710.8 and 720.9) or that a product is a cosmetic as defined in the FD&C Act. Any representation in labeling or advertising that creates an impression of official approval because of registration or possession of a registration number is considered misleading (21 CFR 710.8 and 720.9). Misleading labeling makes a cosmetic misbranded (FD&C Act, 602(a)).
19 It is thus clear that no company can make a claim that it is FDA APPROVED when selling cosmetics, as it is only a voluntary registration process. One can only make such claim if the cosmetic product is also a drug and in such instance the drug itself needs to be FDA approved. These are serious claims being made with various legal implications if proven not to be true. AAMSSA urges its members (and the beauty industry) to be cautious when dealing with rogue companies and their products and encourages you all to do your own homework and verify any claims made. It is a priority of ours to have a well-regulated industry and it is of the utmost importance that we associate only with companies which adhere to all local and international rules, laws and regulations and which are affiliated with the various governing bodies.
Business Tips
Clear distinction
Our members and others in the industry should never be put at a disadvantage by companies not spending the time, money and effort to become regulated and allowing their practices and products to be scrutinized and verified and putting forward false claims for personal monetary gains. We must guard against unfair market practices and competition and urge our members to take due care when dealing with any company and to take the time to verify any claims made. PB
Dr Cobus van Niekerk heads up the Dr Cobus & Associates medical practice. He has a special interest in aesthetic medicine and wellness but insists that medicine remains at the core of his “Wellnessthetics� practice. He is president of AAMSSA (Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa). cobus@drcobus.co.za
Interview
20
Talking to... Teresa Mordoh Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to newly appointed Dermalogica South Africa CEO, TERESA MORDOH, about her vision for the company, the empowerment of women, and Concept Stores. You have a long career history in the beauty industry – how did that prepare you for your new role? I’ve been fortunate to have enjoyed a 20-year career in the beauty industry with global and local experience in marketing, sales and business development with several multi-national corporations, including Unilever, Revlon, Avon, Nando’s, L’Oreal in Paris and most recently, a major retail group in Dubai. I believe this experience abroad has given me a true global view of the fastpaced business of beauty and the demands of its modern consumer.
You began your tenure at Dermalogica SA on 1 March this year – what are your goals in terms of driving the company forward? My vision for the company lies in the DNA of the brand, which is to empower women, namely professional therapists. This is our tribe and we hold true to their core. More and more women are opening up beauty businesses. online @ probeauty.co.za
I read an international stat recently that revealed that the professional beauty industry has put more women into careers than any other. There are so many women in our premier salons and franchise salons who have built successful businesses and I believe these women are under-celebrated and deserve more recognition for their efforts and the impact that they have on women’s lives.
Talking of women empowerment, do you have plans for any specific programmes in South Africa within Dermalogica’s FITE (Financial Independence Through Education) initiative? Actually, I would like to add another ‘E’ to the FITE acronym to accommodate the word ‘Empowerment’. We’ve just launched a college internship for seven, female, 3rd Year beauty students to equip them with the knowledge to embark on careers
and to become the best skincare therapists in the business. The selection of these students was done through a rigorous application process at colleges that use Dermalogica products in their training courses and this programme in FITE gives us the opportunity to train a new generation of young therapists that may become future salon owners, thereby supporting our drive for empowerment and the financial independence of women. While on the topic of education, I can reveal that we are in partnership with salons regarding digital skills training and hosted a workshop in April on how to digitally market your salon. The workshop programme was devised by an independent consultant and moderated in line with Dermalogica’s digital best practices.
There are now 13 Dermalogica Concept Stores in South Africa with plans to open at least two/three more stores during 2019. How does the presence of these stores impact on Dermalogica stockists? The primary objective for our concept stores is to recruit nonsalon customers into the salon environment. Because we regard the stores as an advertising opportunity, we’re very selective as to where we situate them. We chose premium malls only – that’s our landscape. Malls are the new media. Dermalogica is all about the delivery of our brand through human touch and there is no better way to invest in and showcase our brand in its purest form than through our Concept Stores. These stores allow consumers to discover, touch and feel the brand. Once we have exposed new clients to Dermalogica via our Face Mapping Skin Analysis and presented the client with a prescription for their skin, the client can then fill the prescription at any one of our stockists around the country. The overall number of clients that have ever visited a professional skin therapist in a salon is still rather low in South Africa and by exposing clients to this environment, we aim to grow the overall professional channel for the benefit of all stockists. Our network of 13 concept stores across South Africa could never
provide the service of all of the 2,500 estimated professional salons in South Africa (including the Sorbet franchises). The intention of the Concept Stores is not to compete with the existing network of 600 Dermalogica stockists, but rather to increase the recruitment of new clients into the salon channel. Over 80% of the people who walk into our stores are currently using non-professional retail brands and have never used Dermalogica before. By recruiting these people to Dermalogica via our stores, we aim to increase the overall number of clients who would visit a professional skin therapist, as many of these new clients have never had a salon experience before.
Dermalogica has always been available at Sorbet salons in terms of retail and treatments. Has the launch of Sorbet’s own skincare brand affected your business in these stores? We have been in a partnership with Sorbet for many years and the Dermalogica sales continue to grow within the Sorbet network of salons, despite the launch of their own skincare brand as we have a base of clients that are loyal users of Dermalogica. The Sorbet skincare range is also more widely available and distributed via Clicks, as they target a
broader market than the Sorbet professional salon clients.
Unilever acquired Dermalogica in 2015 and while it does have a few prestige professional brands in its inventory, it’s very much consumerfocused. How does that impact on Dermalogica? The professional brands owned by Unilever operate independently and Unilever SA is not operationally engaged in the running of the Dermalogica business in South Africa. Dermalogica is first and foremost a professional brand with a strong heritage and foundation in education and we continue to remain true to that. The core of Dermalogica is to stay close to the ethos of the brand’s founder, Jane Wurwand. In fact, I’ve just attended an international Dermalogica convention where Jane said: “The professional salon environment is not a channel, it’s a community which became our Dermalogica Tribe and the product was our connection”. Jane is still involved in driving the Dermalogica brand, being its DNA custodian and architect. It’s also interesting to note that right from the beginning, Dermalogica has been a ‘clean’ brand, long before ‘clean’ became a buzzword. Our products are free of parabens and cruelty-free. Plus, we’ve always been a genderneutral and inclusive brand for all South Africans. PB
online @ probeauty.co.za
Interview
21
Wellness
22
Why wellness matters individual and workplace
R
esearch has increasingly shown that the drivers of health are facilitated by more than the absence of illness, and by treatments that are not solely based on conventional medicine. Currently, 70% of deaths globally stem from preventable diseases of lifestyle such as diabetes, heart disease, obesity etc – mainly the results of choice and behaviour. As a result, society is beginning to pay more attention to the behaviours and environments that contribute to the overall well-being of
online @ probeauty.co.za
The notion of what it means to be healthy continues to be debated as ideas about what constitutes a ‘good state of health’ have developed over the years. DR MOTHOMANG DIAHO, founder of Spiral Aloe Health & Wellness, delves deeper into the topic.
Terms such as ‘wellness and wellbeing’, for example, have entered the health lexicon to explain the various aspects of health and care but are misunderstood with respective definitions that overlap in some contexts and do not in others.
people to better understand how they can be encouraged to make positive decisions (where possible) around their health. More recently, health programmes and efforts to promote healthier lifestyles have broadened to incorporate the expanding understanding of the changes and additions to the body of knowledge in the medical field. Terms such as ‘wellness and well-being’, for example, have entered the health lexicon to explain the various aspects of health and care but are misunderstood with respective definitions that overlap in some contexts and do not in others.
By definition When most people speak about health they refer mostly to what is experienced physically and determine whether a person is well or unwell by only examining what their physical state presents. It is widely accepted that this is a very narrow way of looking at health when it is known that many other aspects play a role. However, there is a way to distinguish what health is versus wellness and well-being. More importantly, it is to discuss why and when this distinction matters. The World Health Organisation (WHO) (2019) defines health as ‘a state of complete physical, mental and social well-being and not merely the absence of disease of infirmity’. According to the definition given by the WHO, health encompasses multiple aspects – the ‘physical, social, economic, environmental’, as well as the individual characteristics of a person, from their religion to their economic and social condition. Although used interchangeably, wellness and well-being often refer to the same condition, an optimal state of health that individuals and groups actively strive towards as a goal. Wellness and well-being therefore, are about the process, the way in which one achieves their ‘optimal state of health’. Further, the overall well-being of a person is met when they fulfill the potential of the eight dimensions
of wellness that include physical, emotional, psychological, environmental, financial, intellectual, occupational, social, and spiritual aspects.
Importance Looking at the definitions used, the primary difference between health and wellness is that health is the ultimate goal and wellness is the way in which to achieve that goal. The distinction matters because it helps us better understand that in some instances we cannot control our health, however we can control our decisions about how to act towards an improved state of wellness. In context the difference between the two would be the following: Health: Having a predisposition to hypertension or heart disease.
Wellness: Making the choice to eat a more balanced diet and exercise frequently as a way to prevent the onset of the disease. This example demonstrates the relationship between the two definitions but also shows that to gain health it is necessary to first achieve wellness. Thus, when we set goals for our health we must ask ourselves what are the changes that need to be made in order to make the transformation? Whether it be to lose weight, learn to manage stress, or improve their mental state, when people know what it is that they truly want from their health they can work out plans to attain their goals.
Wellness and success When people think of their personal and professional lives it is often easy to define success in either space according to what is perceived externally. It is thought that being successful or being happy with a job, money or career must come at the expense of another aspect of a person’s life – a sacrifice – be it family, friends, hobbies and interests, and increasingly, a person’s mental health. For people to move closer to a more balanced lifestyle, they should look to all the dimensions of wellness and reflect on what challenges they face in each area in an effort to find ways to address and overcome these obstacles. >
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Wellness
23
Wellness
24 Going forward
In some cases, it may be an obstacle regarding their physical health due to illness or injury, for others it may be challenges related to their social environments or relationships due to a low self-esteem. The former could be addressed through exercise and engagement with a health practitioner, the latter addressed through a nursing of relationships and friendships that reciprocate positive feedback to build selfconfidence. However, today people understand that to truly become more successful in any part of their lives, although difficult, they must find that balance, which would ultimately make them the most efficient, productive and successful version of themselves.
Workplace wellness Typically, people spend more than eight hours a day working, around 1.5 hours eating and watching TV, and less than 15 minutes exercising in a day (Willis Towers Watson, 2016). When thinking about wellness and well-being, a large part of what enforces any kind of change towards healthier goals depends on the environment that a person is surrounded by and for most individuals this would be their everyday working environments. Each space that we occupy has an effect on our emotions, feelings and attitudes, which in turn has an effect on our self-esteem, selfworth, and our productivity. In the workplace it has become evident that companies need to think about how to promote wellness initiatives and programmes for employees as their well-being increases when
supported by the right environment, with the right practices and culture.
What do wellness practices do? Implementing changes in your life that help to achieve health and wellness goals can be motivated by financial incentives at work or by a goal weight for a celebratory date. Whichever the case, research shows that people who align with some kind of wellness programme or make concerted efforts to maintain set-out behavioural changes, found that after a year of commitment individuals would have lowered their medical expenditures and were able to maintain healthier habits than those who did not commit (Mattke, 2017). The positive effects of the commitments were also experienced by the individuals through increases in their physical well-being, mental and emotional health, and lead to increased states of productivity in all areas of their lives.
The cost of turning a blind eye to the growing need to bring people closer to wellness can no longer be ignored, as the danger of increasing numbers of lifestyle disease related deaths is too high as well as too costly, particularly when the deaths are preventable. Work environments – whether they be personal spaces or public workplaces – should facilitate an openness for ‘communication, provide stimulation, improve health and wellbeing, boost morale and productivity’ for those who move and work around them (Harmsen Tilney Shane, 2019). In a time where more than money, our health is our wealth, it should be a matter of habit that individuals and companies begin to take not only the goal of health but also the way of wellness and those who promote and facilitate its delivery more seriously. Health practitioners and wellness programmes exist, it is now for people to make the changes day by day that show the commitment to themselves and their own futures. PB Dr Mothomang Diaho, the founder and medical director of Spiral Aloe Health & Wellness, has over 30 years of experience in the field of preventative medicine. She is particularly interested in lifestyle medicine with a specific focus on lifestyle (nutrition, movement and stress) diseases, and women and wellness. info@spiralaloe.co.za
*References Harmsen Tilney Shane. (2019). What is wellbeing and what does successful workplace wellbeing look like? Retrieved from https://www.harmsentilneyshane.com/2018/02/01/wellbeing-successful-workplace-wellbeinglook-like/ Mattke, S, Liu, H, Caloyeras, J. Workplace Wellness Programs Study. RAND Corporation; 2013. http://www.rand.org/pubs/research_reports/RR254.html. Accessed January 30, 2017. Google Scholar Willis Towers Watson . Employee Health and Business Success; 2016. https://www.willistowerswatson.com/-/media/WTW/PDF/Insights/2016/03/Staying-at-Work-Global-2016. pdf?la=en. Google Scholar World Health Organisation. (2019). Constitution of WHO: principles. Retrieved from https://www.who.int/about/mission/en/ online @ probeauty.co.za
Roll Camera, Cue Lashes!
Born Backstage at Pinewood Studios London We Live Lashes, Show-stopping, Eye-popping, Jaw-dropping Lashes! We are Lash specialists leading our field, delivering highly technical, exceptionally crafted, professional lash products and treatments to the best salons in the industry, supported by comprehensive, award winning training. Our extensive range of top quality professional products are made of only the best materials in accordance with EU standards and includes; • Semi Permanent Lash Extensions – Classic, Russian Volume, Special Effects and Express Lashes. • Selection of Lash Adhesives – Medical grade, Formaldehyde and Latex free • Lash Assistant Support Accessories – For professional application and a flawless finish. • Pre Care Range – To perform safe sustainable treatments. • After Care Range - To keep your clients lashes movie starlet gorgeous! • GDL Lash Lift – More defined, fuller, longer looking lashes that lasts up to 8 weeks. • No Animal Testing – No animal products used in the creation of our products
Not just any Lashes, The Best Lashes! Email: sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za Tel: 076 585 4191 Facebook: The Eyelash Emporium SA www.eyelashemporium.co.za
Spa Focus
26
NEW
management strategy FOR JIVA SPA
When FRANCISCO GARCIA recently took over management for the Jiva Spa at TAJ Cape Town, he implemented some new policies that have already started paying dividends. Joanna Sterkowicz finds out more.
H
aving worked as an independent spa consultant for the past few years, Francisco Garcia, who previously managed and directed the spas at Mount Grace and Arabella, and was also Amani Spas Group COO, was keen to return to the corporate world. “I wanted to feel the sense of belonging to a greater organisation, so I welcomed the opportunity of joining an amazing international hotel brand, TAJ Hotels, which has its own signature spa brand – Jiva Spa. Their principles and philosophy had always attracted me and I wanted to explore their ‘Unique Spa Concept’ model as well,” he says. On joining Jiva Spa, Garcia’s first order of business was to understand the status quo
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of the spa as a business and profit centre within the hotel organisation. “I also needed to ascertain the relationship between the spa’s day market and hotel guests, as well as look into customers’ opinions of what we do.” Central to Garcia’s strategy was to ensure that Jiva Spa be accessible to the South African market and easy to understand, whilst remaining faithful to the spa’s principles and philosophy.
Staff adjustments One of the first things Garcia did was to employ an additional receptionist/ back-up therapist and one fixed term therapist, as it was still very early days for him to understand what the full staff complement should be for the year. He continues: “I also added two male therapists as freelancers.
Spa Focus
27 The reason for this was merely to do with the space available at the spa to allow for flexibility in the roster, without negatively affecting the spa’s turnover.” In addition, Garcia adjusted menu prices due to the spa not having had a price adjustment for over two years. This adjustment was below the 10% increase mark and brought the spa in line with its competitors.
Increased turnover He notes that these changes have impacted positively on the spa’s turnover. “In some months we doubled the turnover from the same time in the previous year. Not only did we manage to meet our year end budget but exceeded it by nearly 10%. “This success can also be attributed, I think, to creating a sense of belonging within our business unit and presenting a clear and specific common goal to staff that we all move towards. I try to lead to the best of my ability by allowing my team to be themselves, showing them possibilities and pointing out that they are capable of doing so much more.”
Indian heritage Garcia notes that the spa’s Indian roots impact on everything it does. All treatment protocols and steps are totally interwoven and drawn from the Indian Royalty, its heritage and culture. “Each action is there for a purpose and these actions not only have a link to physical wellbeing, but to spiritual and emotional wellbeing as well,” explains Garcia. “Our treatment protocols are extremely detailed and have numerous steps. Hence, you will only find these treatments in our spa and not anywhere else.” A local flavour has been infused into the spa menu, specifically in the ‘Cape Fynbos’ treatment – a rejuvenating experience that uses the botanical treasures of South Africa, such as Atlantic sea salts, rooibos tea powder, honey bush
Spa at a glance Owner: TAJ Hotel Group, a brand of IHCL (Indian Hotels Company Limited) Spa manager: Francisco Garcia Size of spa: Approximately 600 square metres Number of treatment rooms: five single treatment rooms; two couple’s suites; two pedicure chairs. Hydro facilities: steam room, jaccuzzi in male and female change rooms, indoor heated pool, male and female sauna
They align perfectly to the vision of the spa, they engage with my team and their training support is excellent. It makes financial sense. So far so good, as our retail ratio versus total turnover has nearly doubled.”
Specials
tea, marula oil and fynbos from Cape Fleur.
In trying to expose the spa to its day market, Garcia and his team created two ‘Summer Specials’. He continues: “These were amazing for us and brought us around 30% of our total turnover. We’ve just launched our ‘Autumn Specials’ and, if I can judge by the first three days of its availability, then it is going to be just as successful.”
Adding to retail
Training
Garcia has introduced two new brands into retail, namely Lilian Terry and Spalicious. “Both these brands meet all the requirements from our Jiva Spa standards,” he comments. “I also wanted to bring diversity to our retail offering, and create more variety and opportunity for my team to be able to prescribe the ideal products to their clients. “Furthermore, I chose these brands because I have worked with them in the past and they always made financial sense.
Garcia has been doing quite a lot of retail selling skills and front desk training with his team. “We have a great learning & developing manager at the hotel, who has excellent training modules in broad aspects and topics of the hospitality industry, which also helps spa staff. “My next step will be to create short workshops on specific topics, but more related to spa management so that I can help staff develop into spa managers in the future,” he concludes. PB online @ probeauty.co.za
AFRICA CONVENTION GALLAGHER CONVENTION CENTRE 1 – 2 SEPTEMBER 2019
A fantastic opportunity for trend spotting, inspiration, networking and learning. World Spa & Wellness Africa will give you the opportunity to check out the latest developments, get your hands on new products, compare prices and develop your skills all under one roof! A two-day convention and networking event for senior management of spas and hotels will take place alongside Professional Beauty.
R950 early bird special offer R1350 after the 1st of August
T: +27 11 781 5970 E: info@probeauty.co.za W: www.probeauty.co.za/wsw
online @ probeauty.co.za
Speaker spotlight: Melinda Yon MELINDA YON, the Singapore-based Technical Services Director of Spa and Wellness and part of the core Wellness Innovation Team at Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas, will present the keynote address on international developments – What can African spas learn from overseas? – at the 2019 WORLD SPA & WELLNESS AFRICA CONVENTION, which runs at Gallagher Convention Centre on 1 & 2 September. What would you like delegates to take away from your keynote address? I think it’s important for delegates to always take something away from any event they attend, whether it is learning something new for their own personal development or something practical they can apply to their business. Trends and international developments are certainly exciting topics as the spa and wellness landscape is transforming and I’ll be sharing what’s being predicted versus what is practical and could be relevant to Africa.
Where do you think there is opportunity for the African spa industry in the future? The African spa and wellness industry has so much potential as it’s still in a growth stage, which certainly comes with a lot of benefits. Generally, we are seeing an increased use of technology and more wellness being incorporated into spa offerings. But there could be other opportunities with wellness tourism, as well as traditional healing, indigenous knowledge and plant healing.
For more information on the convention programme log on to https://www.probeauty. co.za/wsw
What are the key reasons you want to speak at the World Spa & Wellness Africa Convention? I am very passionate about the spa and wellness industry and I am also very fortunate to be working for one of the pioneering spa and wellness hospitality companies, Six Senses. In my dual role I work with the development and technical services teams to create the spa and wellness concepts and designs for our properties; as well as work with our core Wellness Innovation Team members to incubate ideas, create and implement projects. I’m excited to share this knowledge and also to experience the African spa and wellness scene and the exchange of ideas.
Why do you think it’s important for industry professionals to attend events like this? I’ve been attending and speaking at spa and wellness industry events for over 15 years and I find them rewarding for so many reasons – from networking to being exposed to new products and services, to discovery and feeling totally inspired and recharged. I’m also a big believer of The 7 Habits of Highly Effective Thinking’s, ‘Sharpening the Saw’ and it’s important to seek ways of personal improvement and renewal and such events can certainly contribute to this.
You are also chairing the closing session of the Convention – Charting Your Way through the Spa Obstacle Course (i.e. key challenges facing the spa industry today). Why is this an important topic to address? It’s a reality that our industry faces obstacles and they may not always be addressed or discussed so openly, so this event and this topic provides a platform to create awareness, share experiences, provide insights and even solutions – a real exchange where participants can both learn and contribute. Melinda Yon is presenting the Keynote Address – What can African spas learn from overseas? – at 09h45 on Sunday, 1 September. Melinda Yon will also chair the panel session – Charting Your Way through the Spa Obstacle Course – at 14h30 on Monday, 2 September. The 2019 World Spa & Wellness Africa Convention takes place at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand on 1 & 2 September, as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo.
online @ probeauty.co.za
WSW Africa Convention
29
30 Software
app? What the
In line with the global trend of ultra-convenience for the consumer and the need for instantaneous communication, the use of mobile apps as a booking system for salons are on the increase, writes JOANNA STERKOWICZ.
S
outh Africa has of late seen the emergence of several booking apps in the market, such as My Appointment, Instaglam Express, DYME, Booksy, Lollipop Beauty and LILA.
First ever
final
Founded by Shani Leon, My Appointment was the first booking app introduced into the local market, some seven years ago. It is in all provinces as well as Zimbabwe and Congo. Says Leon, who has a background in IT: “I was inspired to create My Appointment because of my own frustrations beauty.pdf 1 to 2019/04/25 14:02 when trying book beauty treatments. I built My
APPOINTMENT APP FOR BEAUTY INDUSTRY
MY Appointment MY Appointment
i
Appointment myself, along with a developer and it is a totally homegrown. Initially, I approached development of the app purely from the perspective of the consumer – i.e. just booking appointments. Then I looked at the app from a salon perspective and the ability to do all the traditional salon management online with cloud-based technology.” Consumers download the My Appointment app for free, while salons pay a monthly subscription fee that covers everything from the back end. Their Facebook pages and websites (or answering machines) direct clients to the app. Consumers can also check their loyalty balances on the app, or search for other salons, or search for treatments. Leon believes it’s a very intuitive system. “When consumers log onto the app, the calendar appears first and then they find a suitable time, then the treatment and finally the therapist/ stylist. Salon owners can access the system from anywhere to see who is booked and when. “To minimise cancellations, a consumer has to book on the app through their profile, which automatically makes them more accountable.” The My Appointment app manages cashing up, turnover and commission reporting, stock management, smart stock ordering, gift vouchers, treatment courses, packages and more.
On site beauty in Register / Log Search
This great app makes scheduling appointments online as pain-free as possible.
FEATURES INCLUDE: • Online Booking App • Point of Sale • Cash Up & Reporting • Stock Management • Loyalty Program • Voucher System
Salon Management Cloud based full salon management system for your business Online Bookings Let customers book 24/7 through the mobile app, websites or social media info@myappointment.co.za | 082 494 0893
www.myappointment.co.za
Recently introduced into the market, Grumer is a convenient, on demand beauty and grooming service which is accessible to both men and women. It allows people to choose when and where they would like to be pampered. “Grumer exists to create ease for people when they require beautification at their leisure, according to their schedule. It offers a personal on-the-go service which solves the problem of a lack of time and energy to visit conventional salons,” explains creator Marisa Dimitriadis. She notes that with Grumer, salons can fil in their empty gaps, build their clientele and sell more retail. PB
31 Chemical Peeling
The real peel deal Professional Beauty asked somatologist and peeling expert, SONETTE DONKER of the Skin iD Clinic in Sandton, to provide insight on this enduring skincare treatment modality.
W
hile chemical peels have been around for years, they are still one of the five most popular aesthetic treatments, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. As per the Society’s statistics, there has been a 20% growth in the number of peels performed from 2000 to 2017. (Source: https://www. plasticsurgery.org/news/plasticsurgery-statistics)
Modality combos Chemical peels can be used in conjunction with many other treatment modalities, such as laser, light therapy, micro-neeling, micro-dermabrasion, mesotherapy, fillers, threads, botulinum toxins and even surgery. I’ve found that it is a great idea to customise packages for clients incorporating a variety of treatments, for example: Rejuvenation – Face Week 1: TCA peel Week 3: BBL (Broad Band Laser) Week 4: TCA peel Week 5: BBL Week 6: TCA peel Week 8: BBL
Safety factor Peels are one of the safest aesthetic treatments available as long as they are performed by a well trained professional (i.e. therapist, nurse or doctor). Selecting the right peel for the right skin is vital, so herewith a guideline:
Acne or oily skin prone to breakouts A superficial peel containing bentonite, salicylic acid and glycolic acid at a low pH works very well on this skin type. This gentle peel can be performed every two weeks for four treatments. Thereafter, the skin is rested for one month and then the same peel can be done once every three to four months. Extractions can be done in between; alternatively a very skilled professional can combine the two in a single treatment. A superficial to medium depth peel can also be done with a TCA (trichloracetic acid) peel. These peels comes in a variety of strengths/ concentrations, i.e. 12%, 15%, 18% and 20%. Normally the 12% and 15% are superficial peels and are completely safe to do, even on the darkest skin, whereas the deeper peels can only be done on Fitzpatrick photo types 1-3 by a doctor. The back, neck, shoulders, upper arms, face, neck, chest and behindthe-ears are popular areas to treat.
Photo aged skin This skin condition includes mottled pigmentation, wrinkles, lines and rough texture. Peels containing lactic acid, salicylic acid and glycolic acid, as well as TCA peels, work well. Such superficial peels can be performed every two weeks for four treatments to boost the results, thereafter every four to six weeks for maintenance.
A medium depth intensive peel can be performed by a medical professional. This strong peel contains phenol, TCA and glycolic acid. The client can have a maximum of two of these peels a year, and needs to wait eight weeks between treatments. The décolletage, neck, face, hands, arms and eyelids are popular areas to treat.
Hyperpigmented skin This is a very difficult condition to treat. There are many superficial and medium depth peels available, which contain a blend of lactic acid, glycolic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, mandelic acid and retinol to name a few. Some of these are left on the skin so that it can penetrate the skin slowly, minimising irritation with optimal penetration into the deeper layers. There are some medium depth versions containing resorcinol instead of retinol for more stubborn pigmentation. Often a course of four to six treatments will be done, followed by a monthly maintenance peel. The hands, face, neck and décolletage are popular areas to treat. PB
Sonette Donker is a qualified professional skincare therapist and has worked in the professional skincare industry for 20 years . sonette@skinid.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
The big reveal
JOANNA STERKOWICZ is invited to try TheraVine’s brand new AgeDefying Resurfacing Body Treatment and is delighted with the rejuvenating effect on her skin.
I
’d never experienced an actual chemical peel on my body before so I was intrigued by TheraVine’s Age-Defying Resurfacing Body Treatment, especially considering that my skin was looking particularly dry, dull and tired. The treatment was performed at the boutique salon – La Beauté on the Lake – in Parkview, Johannesburg by TheraVine brand trainer, Nicolene Visser. Said Visser: “People are generally so concerned about facial ageing that they tend to forget about the skin on the rest of their body. It is possible to go to a spa for a body scrub and wrap and they’re great, but this TheraVine treatment is more scientific and effective. “It is a resurfacing peel with 10% glycolic acid, as well as tartaric acid. The peel has a pH of 3, which means it’s quite acidic given that the skin’s normal pH is around 5.5. It rapidly resurfaces dull skin for a smoother, softer and more youthful skin texture, while stimulating collagen production.”
Donning a pair of gloves, Visser applied the peel to my body and then wrapped me in a plastic sheet, covered with a towel, to ensure maximum penetration of the formulation. After a short while, the peel began to feel tingly and warm. Visser commented that this 30-minute treatment can be promoted as an add-on to other treatments, such as a facial. “We’ve received such a favourable response from salons to the treatment. They can offer clients a treatment programme, for instance a peel once a week for the first month, then once every two weeks for the second month and thereafter once a month for maintenance,” she noted. After 15 minutes, Visser neutralised the peel with TheraVine’s Merlot Bath and Shower Gel, which contains grapeseed extract and hyaluronic acid. “I am now going to apply the Age-Defying Rejuvenator, an excellent anti-ageing active
body cream,” continued Visser. “This cream is formulated with two ingredients new to TheraVine, namely Juvinity and Hydronesis, to empower the natural processes of skin renewal and re-establish the hydrolipidic homeostasis. Juvinity is great for elasticity, restructuring and hydrating, while Hydronesis comes from the pink salt lake in Alicante, Spain, which is full of skin nourishing minerals. Hydronesis intensely hydrates the skin and reduces flakiness. It is also effective on keratosis pilaris and redness and even increases skin comfort after waxing. “The Age-Defying Rejuvenator is further enriched with shea butter, sweet almond and grapeseed oil, aloe ferox and green tea extract.” I could really see a difference in my skin following this treatment as it looked smoother and more radiant. Home care comprises of doing the peel on myself two times a week, followed by application of the creamy Age-Defying Rejuvenator. PB Contact TheraVine: 021 886 6623 online @ probeauty.co.za
Treatment Review
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Chemical Peeling
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When beauty is skin deep
We take a look at some of the latest professional chemical peels in the market to treat various skin concerns such as ageing, acne, hyperpigmentation, dull skin, blackheads, enlarged pores, scarring and stretch marks.
Progressive Peel DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care offers superficial to medium-depth peels, in a variety of peeling mediums including AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids), TCA (Trichloracetic Acid) and Vitamin A Propionate. Says DermaFix’s Ursula Volbrecht: “Superior overall benefits are seen with our scientific DermaFix 4 Stage Progressive Peel, which incorporates modified Jessner’s peel alongside the use of TCA and Vitamin A peels, to progressively work towards the required skin depth level on Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to VI. “Jessner’s peel has an excellent safety profile and has been used for over a hundred years as a therapeutic agent to treat hyperkeratotic epidermal lesions. Modified Jessner’s can online @ probeauty.co.za
be used on all skin types with substantial efficacy and minimal ‘downtime’ and has also shown to enhance the penetration of TCA. This is according to the P.E. Grimes Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, David Geffen School of Medicine at the University of California in Los Angeles.” Other peels include the DermaFix Beta + Gel Peel, a Salicylic BHA and Lactic AHA combination peel, the DermaFix DermaPeel modified Jessner’s peel, and the DermaFix DermaBright, a mini-peel incorporating Mandelic AHA. Volbrecht continues: “DermaFix peels work to resurface the skin, while encouraging cellular renewal. Skin texture and tone improves and fine lines and wrinkles are softened. We recommend using the DermaFix MelanoDerm for one month prior to the peel to minimise the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation formation, often associated with peels.”
Cool Peel Environ’s unique Cool Peel® technology is a non-invasive, intelligent skin peeling system developed and pioneered by Dr Des Fernandes to safely and effectively help refine, revive and brighten skin, without compromising the skin’s natural functions. Light, repetitive peeling that maintains the skin’s integrity is recommended, leaving it looking healthy and radiantly beautiful.
Environ’s Cool Peel® Technology works in synergy with the brand’s ethos of creating healthy skin by nourishing it with vitamins A, C and E, as well as antioxidants and peptides. This is why home care and professional peeling treatments go hand in hand to optimise results. Suitable for all Fitzpatrick skin types, Environ peeling formulations are of low percentage and low pH, which means they are gentle on the skin yet very effective. They are scientifically formulated to feel cool and comfortable when applied to the skin but can be intensified to become a more advanced and an intensive experience if the skin requires it. A course of three to six peels is recommended for optimal results, depending on the skin’s needs. Environ peels are a fully customisable system and the trained skincare professional is in control throughout the treatment. A key ingredient in an Environ Cool Peel is TCA, which is safe and effective and becomes inactive when dry. This means you cannot over treat a given area. Furthermore, no known allergic reactions to TCA exist.
fitness and health back to the skin, according to SIX founder and MD, Marisa Dimitriadis. “We use nature’s purest AHAs in our superficial ‘lunchtime’ peels that enhance your body’s natural processes of renewal, effectively discarding old skin cells to make space for new ones, giving your skin the ultimate glow and a youthful complexion. “SIX is the only aesthetic peeling treatment on the market to combine the destressing and calming spa aspect to our skin peeling systems, with the use of our unique tools used during the treatment,” she explains. There are two SIX Reveal
Reveal Peel
Power Peels RégimA offers various levels of peeling treatments, from superficial to medium strength, in order to suit every skin type and to rectify any skin problem. Strictly natural, unbuffered, AHA and BHA peels are unadulterated by chemical intervention that is used to bring up the skin’s pH. Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “Our Power Peels combine six natural acids, which have numerous benefits besides the expected exfoliation. Available in 30% and 50%, they also contain many healing actives such as a wound healing plant, centella asiatica, achieving a ‘Peel & Heal’ effect.
The SIX Reveal Peel skin treatments work like a ‘personal trainer’ on your skin, bringing
Peel options to choose from – Glycolic Acid (30% with a pH of 3.00) and Lactic Acid (30% with a pH of 3.30) – and they can be used on all Fitzpatrick skin types. Dimitriadis continues: “The safety aspects of our peeling system start with pre-treatment home care recommendations, close monitoring of how the peel interacts with the skin whilst it is on the skin, and a thorough post care programme with the SIX Post Treatment Kit.”
Chemical Peeling
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“The BHA offering is a powerful combination of 30% salicylic acid with 12% lactic acid, plus actives such as meadowsweet, to help normalise the hormones within the skin. This is a unique combination and, unlike most BHA peels, it does not self-neutralise, so the length of the peel remains, depending on the needs of each client. “We also have the RapidRejuvo & Acne Attack Pro Masques; these are in-salon professional peeling masques which give a swift ‘flash’ effect within five minutes.” Faucitt points out that RégimA has combined six natural acids (malic, lactic, citric, pyrus malus, peach leaves and raspberry fruit extract) with ingredients produced by biological engineering and using no exogenous chemicals. Healing ingredients such as centella asiatica and elastin pseudodipeptide have also been added. For the more problematic skins, Faucitt recomments Salicylic Acid at 30%, combined with the smoothing, calming, Lactic Acid at 12%, plus a plethora of healing plants. PB online @ probeauty.co.za
Product Focus - Peeling After Care
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Heal & protect Any professional chemical peeling treatment should end with the therapist emphasising the importance of after care and prescribing appropriate products to protect the delicate and newly revealed skin.
Soothing cream
Complete kit The SIX Post Treatment Kit contains all the essentials to speed up the skin’s natural healing processes, as well as to moisturise, provide protection and maintain treatment results. Included are the O2 Serum, Moisture Boost Mask, Glycolic Acid 8% Foaming Face Wash, Broad Spectrum Sun Protection and 2 Booster Elixir Serums for specific skin concerns.
011 312 7840
Vital vitamin The Juliette Armand Elements Provital D3 Serum is ideal post peels to speed up cellular regeneration and skin healing. Vitamin D3 starts a chemical reaction within keratinocytes. These are specialised cells that divide and differentiate constantly, giving your skin a steady supply of new cells.
011 033 0500 online @ probeauty.co.za
DermaFix HydraSooth SOS, a blend of actives offering reparative benefits whilst assisting to calm inflammation may be introduced to sensitive areas of skin becoming exposed during the shedding phase of peeling, and may be used as a masque, a serum or as a moisturiser. Also to be used post peel is the DermaFix DermaShield SPF 50 high protection sunscreen.
086 128 2323
Clever combo Ideal minimal post treatment care following a RĂŠgimA Peel would be the following products: Cleansing + Toning Gel, Scar Repair Forte, Laser Azu-Repair, and a daytime product containing SPF. Clients can continue massaging Scar Repair or Laser Azu-Repair onto the skin as often as desired until all peeling has ceased.
011 615 2869
SA Brands
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At the heart of South Africa In our annual patriotic tribute to home grown products, we put the spotlight on some top local professional skincare brands.
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n addition to wanting to support products made in South Africa and thereby boosting our economy in that way, there are other advantages to stocking local products in your salon and spa. First and foremost is pricing; due to our unfavourable exchange rate, the cost of local products is likely to be more competitive than that of overseas brands. In addition, salons and stockists have direct access to the suppliers of local goods, should they need it. There are several high end South African skincare brands that have stood the test of time, as you will read below.
Step-Up System Nicki Arkell of Beauty With Nicki, a salon in Pietermaritzburg has been a stockist of Environ Skin Care 15 years. “I just love Environ as it’s a brand with a real science behind it,” says Arkell. “Environ has a product for whatever skin problem any client has. The brand is all about polishing the skin to get rid of dead skin cells so as to ensure optimum penetration of product.
online @ probeauty.co.za
“Environ really respects the skin and is kind to it, with its Step-Up System of gradually introducing vitamin A onto the skin. The founder of Environ, Dr Des Fernandes (‘Dr Des’), rated amongst the top five plastic surgeons in the world, is a real guru as he has developed products for everything the skin needs. The result is a healthy, radiant skin. In Environ I finally found something that fixes acne.” Created by Dr Des in 1990, Environ is today a globally recognised professional skincare range. Available in more than 70 countries around the world, Environ boasts over 140 products. Dr Des was a pioneer in skin in the 1980s and the first to incorporate vitamin A and antioxidants in high enough doses in skincare that help counteract the harmful effects of the environment, pollution and stress. Says Environ brand
manager for Africa, Yodi Klassen: “Dr Des’ vision was to create a world where healthy skin is the norm and not the exception. With consumers demanding more powerful ingredients and skincare backed by science, Environ continues to innovate and push the boundaries and shape the future of the skincare industry.” The Original range was Environ’s very first range using the Vitamin Step-Up-System introduced into the market in 1991. This was followed by the world’s first chemical and physical sunscreen with antioxidants RAD (Radical Antioxidant Defence) and later, with the creation of the world’s first safe and effective Cool Peel® Technology system. Ionzyme®, the brand’s premium Vitamin Step-Up System™ Range, launched in 1997 and was the world’s first ‘made-toorder’ vitamin A range. Environ’s latest release is the Focus Care Radiance+ Range, for treating pigmentation.
Authenticity Commenting on the Placecol skincare brand, franchisee Jackie Kotze of Placecol Willowbridge in Cape Town, says: “What attracted me to Placeol is that it is an authentic professional South African brand that has been around for more than 38 years. Their products are of pharmaceutical grade with the ability to transform and illuminate overall skin health.” She points out that Placecol is committed to ongoing innovation focused on delivering high quality professional skincare products, treatments and technology. The Placecol brand was founded by Elma McKenzie, considered a legend in the South African beauty industry in the 1980s. Today, Placecol skincare professionals are subject to ongoing education to ensure customers receive treatments that meet the highest standards of excellence. Says Esna Colyn, CEO of Placecol owner, Imbalie Beauty Limited: “Placecol has a commitment towards ongoing innovation and a focus on high-quality products and treatments, which incorporate safe and effective technology that delivers visible results for customers, making a positive change in the world through improvement and empowerment as well as increasing the esteem of our customers. “The Placecol skincare range is classified as a ‘dermaceutical’ product, which means that active ingredients are delivered to the deeper layers of the skin. We use more than 50 active pharmaceutical grade ingredients. Our range is continuously
improved and upgraded by a group of scientists. Products are manufactured in a ISO 9001 approved facility and comply with international export standards.” Placecol skincare will celebrate its 40th anniversary in 2020.
Advanced protocols In 2004, Spa Professionals cc, the cosmeceutical research and development company, expanded with the inception of the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care brand, which provides scientifically advanced skin care products, meeting the latest demand in all advanced protocols and supported with additional training and education. Says Susan Coetzee of Refinement Clinic in Rustenburg: “We at Refinement Clinic chose DermaFix as our most popular skin care range because the results are fantastic. Clients and staff are very satisfied with the product. Furthermore, the product is very cost effective. “The DermaFix staff are very friendly, reliable and supportive. Their training is excellent and I can see us having a long relationship
with DermaFix.” Ursula Volbrecht, MD of DermaFix, comments on the brand’s unique selling points: “Specialising in anti-ageing, hyperpigmentation, acne, scarring, stretch marks and many more, our skin care solutions and inclinic treatments are formulated with advanced, clinically proven ingredients that provide measurable correction, prevention and protection of the skin.” Located in Johannesburg, DermaFix has sourced laboratories across the world to supply effective solutions, updated formulations and the latest advanced protocols for superior skin care. “We will continue growing by developing and delivering brand value through an effective and expanding product line, which includes new and innovative technologies i.e. stem cells, telomere protection, liposome encapsulated peptides, mandelic acid, vitamin A propionate, advanced natural phytonutrients and botanicals.” DermaFix is distributed through a vast network of dermatologists, skin care professionals, doctors and medi-spas.
Expert formulations SIX Sensational Skincare is a professional skincare collection launched in late 2010, which utilises specially sourced, fully imported active ingredients that are expertly formulated and packaged in South Africa. Products are available nationwide, exclusively at professional salons and spas. Says Cecilia McKay, director of sales & marketing at Camdeboo Day Spa (within Irene Country Lodge): “I would say that the biggest difference between SIX Sensational Skincare and other brands is their excellent service. In addition, we get lots of good feedback about the SIX products from our clients.” SIX founder, Marisa Dimitriadis, adds: “The SIX advanced range is about transforming your skin and ensuring your skincare regime >
online @ probeauty.co.za
SA Brands
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SA Brands
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gets the optimal results to reach your ultimate outcome. This brand is about what you want and giving you the best opportunity for an admirable skin, by constructing the perfect system for your skin type. “We also offer a range of corrective SIX Aesthetix treatments to suit your needs depending on your desired preferences. SIX understands the beauty professional’s determination in maintaining and improving beautiful skin and we are committed to providing you with the solutions to do so.” Dimitriadis points out that her products offer stockists a wide range – from affordable yet effective homecare, to professional, personalised treatment plans. “Our tailor-made procedures also provide the options for using advanced technology that will provide long term results, being skin health and to build it up through its natural process. These procedures train the skin over time to behave in an exemplary manner.” SIX Sensational Skincare just launched SIX Micellar Cleansing Water and Rice Enzyme Exfoliating Powder.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Grape technology
The award-winning TheraVine™ range was launched in 2004 after years of extensive research and experimenting with formulations and ingredients by a team of top development bio-chemists from South Africa, France and Germany. This range, which is designed for use by aestheticians and licensed professionals to achieve maximum skin enhancement, incorporates natural botanicals and follows an environmentally friendly approach to health and skincare.
Says TheraVine’s national operations and marketing manager Hildemari Kohrs: “Our products do not contain any harmful petrochemicals, fragrance or colorants and have not been tested on animals. “It has been proven that grape technology oligomeric proanthocyanidins are 50 times stronger than vitamin E and 20 times stronger than vitamin C at anti-oxidant level. Our formulations consist of many different multigenerational variations and cultivars of grape technologies, from different parts of the grape and vine to benefit the skin in various ways.” She notes that these are stabilised in a unique way along with the addition of the highest recommended percentages of internationally acclaimed active ingredients. The most recent addition is that of Grape Stem Cell Technology for the protection of skin stem cells against the harmful effects of UV stress.
Delivering on promises The Lazer Clinique in Bedfordview (Gauteng) has been using RégimA for the past four years because it
delivers what is promised, says owner/ therapist Nadine Oliveira. She continues: “The products have a high percentage of active ingredients which give optimum results and the mix of amazing ingredients can help any skin, with applications from anti-ageing to removing scars. “RégimA peels definitely allow the skin to peel afterwards and with the correct after care, everyone can have an amazing skin. Futhermore, it has excellent results no matter the skin type or colour. RégimA’s secret is ‘peel and heel’. The ingredients are natural and the technology is always updated. Another plus is that RégimA keep their prices low and thus we have happy clients with beautiful skin.” Launched in 1996, RégimA remains strictly only available through doctors, salons and spas, vitally protecting the business interests of therapists, salon and spa owners. Says RégimA founder, Jacqui Faucitt: “Our brand empowers therapists with the most efficacious products that change lives. Because our products are not sold in chain stores, it helps ensure continuity of return customer revenue for all our stockists. “As such a well-established and respected multiple award winning range – doctors, salons and spa owners remain confident that RégimA is a trusted brand of choice, where an ever expanding portfolio of successful case studies demonstrates that products remain powerful, yet affordable.” Faucitt notes that over the past year, RégimA has been focusing on strengthening the brand in a precarious financial market. “The human touch is critical for successful business and in this time of AI (Artificial Intelligence)), social media and on-line stores, many companies are struggling to understand the market and are closing down. RégimA has been getting stronger, nurturing the relationships already established, as well as taking on board many
SA Brands
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new salons and spas throughout South Africa and the UK, where RégimA is thriving, despite Brexit.”
Omega rich oil Extracts Collection, created by Janine Janse Van Rensburg of Poise Brands in Johannesburg, last year launched its South African pregnancy safe Massage Oil. Says Janse Van Rensburg: “Extracts Collection was established with a dedicated focus on providing quality pregnancy safe products to the pregnancy massage industry. “The Massage Oil consists of a luxurious blend of the highest quality omega rich base oils, combined with the perfect blend
of pure pregnancy safe essential oils. Extracts Collection also offers pregnancy massage training for its stockists.”
Aromatherapy principles CSpa Aroma Wellness is a new generation aroma wellness brand based on aromatherapy purist principles. As essential oils are liposoluble, they penetrate quickly and deep into the skin, allowing for a complete wellness journey. Staying true to its local heritage, CSpa incorporates hints of Africa at various levels. Indigenous to Sub-Saharan Africa, the profound benefits of Aloe Vera extract have remained at the core of many of the Cspa products. PB
online @ probeauty.co.za
Hair News
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Crowning GLORY
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front
Organic all the way Known for its clean, organic manufacturing methods and responsibly sourced, sustainable ingredients, the Oway Agricosmetics hair range from Italy includes hair baths, nourishing masks, moisturising conditioners, energising sprays, distillates and elixirs for every need, as well as treatments, styling and finishing products.
True to form Authentic Beauty Concept is a holistic premium brand cocreated with a unique hairdresser collective to start a new path to authentic beauty. The brand chooses pure vegan ingredients from carefully selected origins. Products are free from silicones, sulfates surfactants, parabens, mineral oil and artificial colorant.
011 262 2451
011 617 2495
Sensitive nature
Triple bonding
For sensitive, dry and/or de-hydrated scalps, Inoar Sensitine blends cleansing agents balanced with AHA, Allantoin Scalp, vitamin B3 and ultra-purified Asian centella extract. The product cleanses and moisturises the cellular origin of the threads and eliminates discomfort caused by chemical processes and external agents, for soft, shiny and healthy hair.
Schwarzkopf Professional has launched BC Fibre Clinix, featuring new triple bonding C21 technology. When combined with a new range of hypercustomisable Boosters, BC Fibre Clinix allows hairdressers to create bespoke, tailormade salon services for their clients. They can transform clients’ hair back to perfectly healthy virgin properties.
012 346 1721
011 617 2495
online @ probeauty.co.za
THE GOLD STANDARD OF HOCl a
WHO IS O SKIN?
Oa SKIN is a biotechnology company dedicated to harnessing the amazing abilities of HYPOCHLOROUS ACID and with our proprietary method Oa SKIN produces one of the purest most stable forms of HYPOCHLOROUS ACID in the world. What sets us apart is unlike many other HOCl/Anolyte/Catholyte based products our solution is free of hypochlorite (bleach molecules), chloride by-products and other contaminants ensuring a product of the utmost quality and purity.
WHAT IS HYPOCHLOROUS ACID (HOCl)? HOCl is a naturally occurring oxidant that is produced by white blood cells within the human body and acts as the main ingredient used by our immune systems (phagocytes) to destroy decease forming pathogens speeding up the body’s recovery processes.
a
WHAT MAKES HYPOCHLOROUS ACID FROM O SKIN SO SPECIAL? ● 100% NATURAL ● NON-TOXIC ● ANTI-BACTERIAL ● ANTI-FUNGAL ● ANTI-VIRAL ● SPORICIDAL ● HYPOALLERGENIC ● ANTI-PRURITIC MAIN FUNCTIONS OF HYPOCHLOROUS ACID (HOCl): HOCl is a very powerful DISINFECTANT HOCl can kill multiple DRUG RESISTANT BACTERIA on contact HOCl destroys BIOFILM secreted by BACTERIA within seconds of application HOCl has a very powerful ANTI-INFLAMMATORY effect HOCl reduces PAIN, SWELLING and REDNESS HOCl accelerates the HEALING PROCESS with up to 50% SAFETY OF HYPOCHLOROUS ACID: Completely SAFE for HUMAN USE Holds the highest FDA SAFETY CLASSIFICATION Holds the GRAS classification (Generally Recognised as Safe) which is only issued for products that are SAFE to INHALE, INGEST, apply on SKIN, apply on MUCOUS MEMBRANES and EYES SAHPRA (MCC) registered Medical Device Classified as a FOOD ADDITIVE – USA FSIS (Food Safety Inspection Service)
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HYPOCHLOROUS ACID FROM O SKIN IN AESTHETICS: LOWERS the RISK of post inflammatory HYPERPIGMENTATION and SCARRING Very strong DISINFECTANT against bacteria, viruses, spores and fungi HEALING is ADVANCED by regulating cytokines and growth factors Activities in the FIBROBLASTS are ACCELERATED STIMULATES wound HEALING SAFE for ALL SKIN TYPES Reduces PAIN, SWELLING and REDNESS REDUCES DOWNTIME with up to 50% Very EASY to APPLY HEALING is ENHANCED due to neutralization/inhibition of pro-inflammatory factors Will greatly benefit and enhance MOST AESTHETIC PROCEDURES (Needling, Laser, IPL, Chemical Peels, Vampire Facials etc.) WANT TO KNOW MORE OR BECOME A STOCKIST? Feel free to drop us an e-mail at shoutout@elysiumholdings.co.za or phone us up at +27 12 664 0231. You can also pop in at our website www.oaskin.co.za for a quick browse.
Aesthetic Medicine
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Prime selection
In order to get the most out of retailing cosmeceuticals in a clinic environment, it is wiser to have only one or two brands that have a full comprehensive offering to meet all of your client’s needs, writes KAREN ELLITHORNE.
I
f you are carrying a retail line in your aesthetic medicine clinic, the stock should be turning over regularly and be a very influential part of your business. With a wide range of tools and technology currently available to evaluate clients’ results pre and post treatment, it is important that your clinic works with a cosmeceutical brand that meets the needs and expectations of the patient. Other factors include reactions, downtime, complaints, returns, repeat visits and repeat purchases. Verbal feedback from your staff and patients is very important. If your therapists are not excited about working with a product range, or using it themselves and always keen to suggest it to patients, then it’s possibly not the correct brand for your clinic. Look at the brand in more depth and if you still are sure that it is the right brand, then offer more in depth training to your staff to ensure they are more confident in selling it. Cover things like key active ingredients, how the product works and application.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Educating clients and staff
If your therapists are not excited about working with a product range, or using it themselves and always keen to suggest it to patients, then it’s possibly not the correct brand for your clinic. How do you select a brand? It is always easier to retail a brand that is well established and known by the consumers, however not many cosmeceutical ranges fit into this category. So, you have to work harder to make the brand more present in your clinic in order to retail. It is vital to select a range that has evidence based results both in the clinic and for home use. The range should also contain high levels of good quality active ingredients.
Education of your clientele in advanced skincare products is integral to laying the foundation for their purchasing decisions and this education should thread through the entire treatment. Staff must be educated on the importance of using home care pre and post treatment and they should confidently make recommendations for the patient’s skin type, need and condition. Retail should commence from the minute the customer first makes contact with your clinic. Your retail products can be your best return on investment as selling two retail products may generate the same amount of revenue as a 45-minute advanced facial treatment. The client’s skin needs to be prepped in order to recover and heal post treatment, so you must ensure their skin is in optimal health. This could take the form of a prepping kit that would be used prior to an ablative laser treatment or resurfacing.
The treatment While it may increase your treatment cost to add additional treatment protocols, it is an additional opportunity to increase your customer’s loyalty to the cosmeceutical brand. For every treatment you offer there is potential to retail anything from a cleanser right up to an advanced home care treatment protocol.
Aesthetic Medicine
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Home care The majority of retail sales are generated when the patient leaves the clinic. Cumulative improvements in skin health from professional treatment as well as maintaining these results at home are a great introduction to sales at this stage. If a customer has had an ablative treatment always recommend the products that can assist with skin recovery and protection post the treatment. Patients will truly value these items especially where potential discomfort or scarring is a possibility.
Offer a bespoke treatment with your brand This treatment should combine all your skill sets and offer something that is unique and bespoke to your clinic. It is important in cementing the cosmeceutical brand and your clinic and should be offered for press opportunities and promotion.
Partner with your supplier Utilise marketing material (i.e. videos, case studies, testimonials and social media assets) from your supplier. Always use samples correctly to get the best results post treatment from your client’s skin. Allowing your patient to leave the clinic after a treatment without a sampling kit or retail products and not following up afterwards is a lost opportunity. PB A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
Product News
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market IN THE
Our round-up of new products and treatments
Focused on pigmentation Environ has launched the Focus Care Radiance+ Range, comprising the revolutionary new 3-Step MelaSmart system, designed to tackle the root causes of pigmentation. The system comprises four powerhouse formulations that work together to help inhibit the complex steps involved in the formation of hyperpigmentation.
011 262 0264
Champion charcoal TheraVine’s Daily Defence Charcoal Purifying Mask is an ultra-luxurious pollutionfighting mask that clears pores and smooths the skin’s surface for a gorgeous complexion that’s noticeably clean. Activated charcoal magically draws microparticles to the surface of the skin, along with bacteria, toxins, chemicals, dirt and oil.
021 886 6623 online @ probeauty.co.za
Eye-opening treatment DermaFix Ceramide Eye Complex rejuvenates skin and repairs the natural lipid barrier of the skin. Rich in DMAE, DermaFix Ceramide Eye Complex reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles whilst improving skin elasticity around the delicate eye area.
086 128 2323
>
Johannesburg Expo Gallagher Convention Centre 1-2 September 2019 www.probeauty.co.za
Product News
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Uplifting experience
Treasures from the sea Babor has relaunched its Sea Creation line, with the addition of a new product, Sea Creation The Mask, and a new component, MicroAlgae AP extract, which visibly reduces wrinkles. It also boosts the cells’ energy levels by stimulating cellular respiration and contains two anti-ageing microorganisms, Glycocéane GP3 and BABOR thermophiles.
CooLifting is the newest noninvasive solution for facial rejuvenation. This quick treatment combines a unique concentration of hyaluronic acid and other botanicals with a cold, CO2 (carbon dioxide) spray directly onto the skin. The cool CO2 mist helps the hyaluronic solution to saturate more completely and deeply into your skin, increasing its impact.
0861 850 851
011 467 0110
Manly range South African brand, Milk Solutions, has introduced Milk for Men – a range of men’s grooming products for hands, feet and body care. Infused with activated charcoal to purify and cleanse the skin, and formulated with a masculine fragrance, this range includes five essential products for grooming, as well as small travel packs and promotional kits.
011 454 8119
Defending the skin
Brighten up!
Prisma Protect SPF30 from Dermalogica is a broad spectrum multi-tasking moisturiser that works with skin’s daytime defence mode to defend skin against UV rays, free radical damage and pollution. It simultaneously provides all-day hydration for visibly smooth skin and boosts its natural luminosity.
The Thalgo Brightening Correcting Serum reduces dark spots, minimises pigment irregularities, evens skin tone and smooths the face. This milky, creamy serum with its gentle notes of cotton and white flowers can be applied to the face, décolleté and hands in the morning and evening.
011 268 0018
011 880 3851
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Classifieds
49
SAAHSP
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Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in SA
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
SCORM Compliance
S
AAHSP has implemented a new evaluation process called SCORM Compliance. SCORM stands for Sharable Content Object Reference Model. It defines a specific way of constructing Learning Management Systems (LMS) and training content in order to work well with other SCORM conformant systems. SCORM is effectively a structure of courses which has one standard. Our courses are structured in Sessions and Sections. SAAHSP has developed, and is able to manage with the help of our Skillzbook online platform, the following SCORM requirements that will be utilised to evaluate the programme as follows: SkillzTraining Events (Workshops / Congresses) • Target group – e.g. Designation Category • Hours / Duration • Assessment • Practical • Theory • POE (Portfolio of Evidence) – if applicable • Content / Course Outline • Mode of Delivery • Learning Material • Staff Qualifications
1 – 4 hours (1/2 day) 2 CPD 5 – 8 hours (1 day) 4 CPD 9 – 16 hours (2 days) 8 CPD Longer 12 CPD Level 4 0 CPD Level 5 1 CPD Level 6 2 CPD Level 7 3 CPD
Pricing schedules
• Events • Target Group • Hours / Duration • Venue, Date and Time • Programme Synopsis - includes speaker profile
CPD points SAAHSP will evaluate the programme, utilising the above and therefore work out the CPD (Continuing Professional Development) schedule as follows: Duration NQF Level 1 hour or less 1 CPD
We have also confirmed the following pricing schedule per CPD. All new applications will be charged an initial application fee of R150 per CPD. Re-evaluated programmes will be charged a fee of R100 per CPD. Your programmes will be reevaluated based on the above criteria and standards. Feedback will be provided in terms of your status and in terms of SCORM compliance. As per the above pricing structure, there will be a price adjustment that will be credited to your account and can be used towards your membership of the organisation. As this is a new process, there are many things that have to be implemented within the SAAHSP – Skillzbook process. Applications will now only be processed according to these structures. Our goal is to provide the industry with the best possible outcome and best standard of training evaluation.
CIDESCO launches new Certificate programmes The new Certificate programmes from Cidesco, the world standard for beauty and spa therapy, comprise a combination of theory and practical skills, resulting in qualifications of value for the ever-changing needs of the industry. online @ probeauty.co.za
These Certificate programmes provide students with career pathways and could lead them towards the prestigious CIDESO International Beauty Therapy Diploma. CIDESCO Certificates are recognised and respected worldwide.
Audrey Paradza from the Elite School of Beauty, t/a Cindy’s Beauty Therapy School in Zimbabwe, is one of the first students to have completed the CIDESCO Skincare Certificate.
Issue 26
May/Jun 2019
A Winter’s Tale
Seasonal trends
Exemplary ethics
Shutterstock
Appropriate staff behavior
Staying put Prevent nail enhancements from lifting
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Tel: 011 675
6518, Fax:
SCORM Co mpliance
086 588 0973,
Postal addres s: Postnet
Suite 236,
Private Bag
ailFile was delighted to receive a record number of entries for the Photographic Nail Design ‘Arabian Nights’ competition. This competition, which runs in every edition of NailFile, with a different theme for each, was introduced over a year ago by beauty professional and educator, Sonette van Rensburg, specifically to encourage nail techs to tap into their creativity and to perfect their technical skills. Judging from the dazzling ‘Arabian Nights’ entries, this strategy is clearly paying off. Our worthy winner is featured on page 54. It recently came to NailFile’s attention that an incident of shameful behavior by staff towards a customer in a Johannesburg salon had transpired, highlighting the need for salon owners and managers to ensure that staff conduct themselves in an appropriate and respectful way at all Staying pu t times. Our panel of experts suggest ways of how to do this. A common challenge faced by nail techs is how to stop their clients’ enhancements from lifting after application. This issue of NailFile provides some invaluable advice on how to combat this problem and ensure the longevity of the enhancement service. With the change of seasons, it’s always fun to take a look overseas at the catwalks to see what nail design styles and colours are trending, as we do in our Style Savvy section. X1, Cresta
Issue 26
May/Jun 2019
Shutterstock
Nail Design Competition Welcome
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Prevent nail
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Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
WHAT’S INSIDE NAIL FILE
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News
Step by Step
Product Hub
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Ask the Experts
Techniques
Top Tech Talk
Stay in the know
Ethical behaviour in the salon
58 Style Savvy
New season inspiration online @ probeauty.co.za
Metallic Bubbles
How to prevent nail enhancements from lifting
62 Salon Focus
Nails with Russian flair
The latest launches
Winnifreda Makombe
A Winter’s Seasonal
Tale
trends
Exemplary ethics App
ropriate staff beh avior
53 News
NEWS
Information at your fingertips Industry professionals urged to attend Nail Summit
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AAHSP, the Professional Body for the Skin, Body and Nail Care Industry, will host a Nail Summit on 29 July at the Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg, as a means of convening beauty professionals to create positive changes and to uplift standards of the industry. Says Sonette van Rensburg, director of the Nail Professionals Profile on the SAAHSP board: “Issues of serious concern to the industry include inadequate and
unrecognised training that leads to hygiene and sanitation lapses, misguided information, performing of unsafe and improper practices and not following COPs (Codes of Practice) and ethics. “The Nail Summit will be an open forum and platform for delegates to be educated and informed, with top speakers and experts in their field addressing the above issues and proposing solutions.” Topics include: Making a Positive Change; Recognised Training;
Ongoing Education; Working Standards & Practices; Online Media Platforms; Protecting your Profession; and the Role of SAAHSP in the industry. “It’s everyone’s professional responsibility to be involved and properly informed – the future of our industry depends on it. DO THE RIGHT THING!” states Van Rensburg. For more information contact Sonette on sonettevr@gmail.com or 076 585 4191 or visit www. saahsp.com.
Nail brands support anti rhino-poaching As part of their ‘African Safari Promise’, professional nail brands Morgan Taylor and Gelish, as well their South African distributor, Sparkle Cosmetics, sponsored a rhino notching event at the Pilanesberg National Park on 29 March. Said Sparkle MD, Debbie Kayle: “Morgan Taylor and Gelish’s interest in wildlife conservation was sparked during their visit to South Africa in 2017, whereupon they decided to create the African Safari Collection, which is available in Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer, Gelish and Gelish Dip. Proceeds of the sales of this collection, both in South Africa and internationally, will go towards wildlife conservation. “When Morgan Taylor and Gelish told us they wished to support endangered species, we immediately jumped in as Sparkle likes to give back. We chose to support anti rhino-poaching not only because rhino poaching has reached crisis proportions in South Africa to the extent that rhinos are
now facing extinction, but because rhino horn is made of keratin, the same substance as human nails.” Rhino notching is a conservation method used to gather important information about rhinos. It involves the services of a helicopter, a vet and
park ecologists and is a hugely costly exercise. Kayle was adamant that Sparkle did not want this particular rhino notching to be a once-off event and is looking to collaborate with individuals and/ or companies to possibly set up a fund for rhino notching.
online @ probeauty.co.za
News
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SA nail tech launches gel polish brand
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ohannesburg-based nail tech, Eloise Nom Chong, has developed her own brand of gel polish, called Elostrated, the same name as her business, which she runs from The Muse in Bedfordview (Gauteng). Commenting on the inspiration behind Elostrated Gel Polish, Nom Chong says: “One of my goals was to have a successful nail business by the age of 30. I managed to accomplish that by age 28. My next goal was having my own gel polish line by age 35 and I’ve now managed to create it and launch it.” Elostrated was launched with 50 colours and more will be added on a regular basis. The development process for
the range took about four years. Nom Chong continues: “Firstly, I had to find a manufacturer that was quality driven, efficient and reliable. The next phase involved the testing of the pigmentation of the gels, application, allergic reactions, and then packaging and shipping. “I have been in this industry for 14 years and used many different products, so I knew what I wanted in a gel polish and also what I thought other nail technicians would like. The colour range is wide and the lifespan of the gel in the bottle is good. Application for me has always been a big thing and the price of the product is really affordable for the quality purchased.”
Leandre Kruger wins ‘Arabian Nights’ nail comp The ‘Arabian Nights’ themed NailFile Photographic Nail Design competition has been won by Leandre Kruger of Cape Beauty. Says competition director, Sonette van Rensburg: “We had a phenomenal response to this particular challenge. The efforts that nail techs put into their entries were remarkable and a challenging to judge. “Leandre Kruger truly explored and captured the oriental and mystical theme of ‘Arabian Nights’ to the fullest, translating it into the most phenomenal nail designs. She used a combination and variety of techniques and colours to create elements that brought this age old story to life. “Her enchanting designs really stand out and truly take you on a fantastical journey, such as the beautiful magic carpet with intricate details, entrancing lamp and jovial genie making his presence, along with the colourful and entertaining parrot, Iago. The
online @ probeauty.co.za
hand painted characters of Aladdin, the beautiful princess Jasmine, and Abu, the cheeky monkey, are all exceptionally detailed and so realistic. And let’s not forget the evil villain Jafar. Everything was set against the backdrop of an Arabian night sky, bringing the whole design and theme together. “Leandre’s work and overall presentation and interpretation of this theme was outstanding in every aspect.” Van Rensburg notes that the NailFile Photographic Nail Design competition has grown from strength to strength since it was first introduced over a year ago. “I have seen the quality and standard of work being produced by nail stylists elevated to a whole different level. So, keep up the fantastic work everyone, as these challenges really assist you in improving and growing your skills to new heights.”
Sponsored By:
Business Tips
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ask
the EXPERTS
QUESTION: How can we ensure that professional and appropriate behaviour and ethics are upheld and followed through by staff towards clients? SAM BIDDLE Running your own salon with staff requires more than scheduling and bankroll. You need to make sure that everyone is on the same page, with the same goals. Sharing the vision you have for the business with your staff will give them an idea of what you plan and how you wish for the outside world to view the salon. It will also give staff a sense of belonging and ownership.
It is important to educate your staff and have training days, as well as conduct weekly meetings that provide a clear guideline for them to follow. Keeping your staff included and motivated means you are all working from the same page and towards the same goal. Without guidelines in place and without communicating them, you will not be able to control your staff. If you want your salon to reach a professional standard and you have not explained what actions should be taken in each and every circumstance, how can you expect your staff to know what they should do in any given situation?
Based in Dorset, England, Sam Biddle is a renowned nail technician and educator who has found global success teaching nail art. She is a pioneer in online mentoring. In addition, Biddle regularly contributes to trade and national press worldwide and is a published author. She has developed her own brand of nails art products, Be Creative, which continues to sell worldwide.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Photographic Nail Design Business Competition Trends
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Photographic Nail Design Competition
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Around the World
dventurous nail techs are invited to pack their suitcases, put their travel shoes on and transport their nails on an exciting journey. Think fabulous destinations, countries, seascapes, landscapes, famous landmarks, maps, national costumes and food…the world is your (nails) oyster!
Rules & Regulations
• Designs must be created according to the theme – Around the World • Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate. • Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to interpret and create their designs in any style they wish using flat, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work and techniques. • Designs must be created on a live model, either on natural nails or enhancements but not on tips only. • Photographs must be high quality. Photos MUST NOT include any product logos. • The model’s hands, cuticles and nails must be perfectly manicured and in a good condition. PLEASE remove cuticle oil prior to taking your final photo entry. • Any length and shape may be achieved. • A combination of products and nail systems may be used, as long as it pertains to and complements the theme and look. • All 10 of the model’s nails must have a design and creation on them; each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another and be consistent in design flowing throughout all 10 nails to tell a story. • Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work. • Please provide a step by step of your work, photos and the inspiration behind your design. Additional points awarded for presentation • Photos must be submitted by no later than the 10th June 2019 • Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician. Entries must include full contact details. Sponsored by • Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the following issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine. The judge’s decision is final. To see the full list of Rules & Regulations go to www.probeauty.co.za
online @ probeauty.co.za
JESSICA VERWEY
This has been a hot topic on a lot of people’s lips lately and with good reason. We have seen the standard of salon services, as well as client services, depreciate tremendously in the past year, raising the question: how do we fix it and how do we reset the standard? I firmly believe in laying a solid foundation (i.e. leadership). Salon owners have become a lot less involved in their businesses and as result, have no clue as to what the daily activities in their businesses entail. You need to lead by example by being involved in every aspect. By showing your passsion daily and allowing staff to work alongside you, they will learn what is expected from them and implement this in your business. Clients appreciate seeing a face behind a brand and knowing that their support is valued goes a long
services stay on point. This will equip therapists and owners alike to reset the standard of a professional and appropriate work ethic. Providing service excellence together with the above is a good starting point. way. Your clients and staff will respect your involvement. It’s important that you have set protocols and SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) on all tasks and treatments in the salon so that there is consistency in your staff and management. Increase staff morale by introducing incentives, for example, ‘Employee of the Month’ rewards based on any identified strengths. To help identify any weaknesses or strengths in your business, you can utilise a complaints or suggestions box at your reception. Continuous training and support are of vital importance to your staff and business. Your staff must stay up to date with new trends and treatments to ensure your
Jessica Verwey is the head trainer for Looking Good LCN, as well as the manager for the LCN Training & Aesthetic Beauty Spa. She has been in the beauty aesthetic industry for eight years and has just completed a seven-week internship and mentorship programme at Wilde Cosmetics in Germany, which has equipped her with an international perspective on the industry when it comes to salon services as well as training.
SANDY FUHR We think people ‘just know’ how to behave in a workplace environment and ‘just know’ what is expected of them to ensure that a professional standard is upheld in a salon. This is strangely not the way of the real world and we can’t risk assuming it either. We should value the power of education in terms of ethics and professional behaviour taught to students regarding what is required behind the closed doors of our treatment rooms and within the walls of our salons. Professionalism relates directly to the behaviour, respect and integrity our therapists have for each other and for their guests, from the way they project themselves to others and in turn, to themselves. Good and proper ethics are taught to each student studying in the beauty industry. Initially, they think it’s a frivolous topic. But once we start sharing examples of what not to do in the workplace, they become intrigued and often confused that such
behaviour actually prevails, even amongst the most educated. Our therapists should have a desire to be the best they can possibly be and to cultivate the best relationships with others. Therapists are required to be ‘people-people’ in order to develop in this industry. With this comes a responsibility to others to ensure that they are treated with the utmost respect. Clients come into our salons, at times irate, having had too much of their day, the traffic, etc. Of course, we are fertile ground for them to vent. It is really important for therapists to be able to listen, but not to make clients’ problems theirs, in other words, listen with big ears and a small mouth. Nodding and acknowledging client’s problems is fine as long as you don’t get involved in any heated discussions. The importance of avoiding countertransference is essential, which essentially means not allowing your guest’s emotions to become yours, or to avoid allowing
your emotions to pass onto your fellow therapists either. Do what you can to avoid negativity affecting your day. Wash your hands up to your elbows in cold water. Shake out that negative energy and move into the rest of your day. Believe me, it works! Be kind, caring and gentle. Guests find it hard to be angry or negative towards a positive person. Keep smiling.
Sandy Fuhr (Roy) is CEO of the Beauty Therapy Institute group of 10 Beauty colleges. She is a PR board member of Zurich-based CIDESCO International and a past-president of SAAHSP, CIDESCO Section South Africa. Fuhr has received numerous awards for her contribution to the industry in South Africa
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Business Trends Tips
57
Style Savvy
58
New season
inspiration As South Africa is a season behind the Northern Hemisphere, we decided to reference the following PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY UK article, which unlocked the nail trends evident in the Autumn Winter 2018 (AW18) Catwalk Collections.
Bedazzled
The more the merrier was the motto for the AW18 season when it came to embellishment – and not just in the jewellery. Fashion houses such as The Blonds and Sophia Webster made it clear that the best place for gems to shine is on your fingertips. Not an inch was wasted as both designers chose to embellish their models’ nails with adornments such as gold spikes, red gems and Swarovski crystals. online @ probeauty.co.za
At the Mulberry show, session tech Michelle Class also used the nails as an accessory with a much more subtle nude base colour, which drew the focus to the Swarovski-emblazoned accent nails for a more wearable look. While the embellishment in your nail art might come from decals, there are plenty of new and existing wintery shades to get your creative juices flowing, from pale tones to use as a base that will make the sparkles pop, to new chunky glitters for this season’s simplest way to shine.
Live the wild life Animalistic inspiration brought the AW18 catwalks to life as bold patterns replaced the fur fetishes of previous years. No beast was left untouched as leopard, snakeskin and even zebra
made an appearance on the catwalks. Tom Ford, Max Mara and Givenchy were among the designers going wild for animal print The look was adapted for the nails at Jeremy Scott. This quirky designer put a cool, techno twist on the leopard print look. Using Essie, session tech Miss Pop worked with bold colours on a transparent nail to bring the classic pattern into the 21st century, showing that the look
really can be personalised for any client. You can recreate animal prints in your client’s nail art, or simply complement their bold fashion choices with a safari-inspired colour,
Cable-knit cool
‘Grandad style’ was predicted to be a hot trend in the Northern Hemisphere’s 2018 autumn season, and Erdem led the way with its boy-meets-girl collection, featuring cable knit, oversized cardigans on top of delicate cocktail dresses. Rejina Pyo, Christopher Kane and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi embraced the cosy look on the catwalks with
Shellac Sweet Escape Collection
Winter Warmers
argyle and cable knit galore. If the thought of the encroaching sweater season fills your clients with happiness, you’ll be glad to hear that, thanks to fashion house Libertine and CND style director, Jan Arnold, the cosy knit style has been adapted for fingertips. Libertine designer Johnson Hartig wanted nails that evoked a home-spun feel, just like your favourite jumper. The look works best with warm pastel winter tones that evoke crisp autumn walks and family time around an open fire. Recreate yarn texture on the nails using a builder gel or acrylic, or, for a twist, experiment by embedding fibres.
Cuticle colour pop As ever, Moschino delivered fun and quirkiness to the catwalk with its bright, bold pieces inspired by Jackie O. The retro yet futuristic theme was reflected in the nails, which carried a colourful cuticle design, in a new variation of the reverseFrench style.
African Safari Neutral by Nature
Feel the beat
Business StyleTrends Savvy
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The bold combination of pinks and reds are perfect for those clients not quite ready to let go of summer, although the simple yet chic style means it can easily be adapted to different colour variations. Anything goes for the cuticle colour pop trend. Try clashing colours or pairing one of the new season’s brights with a cool, classic nude. Steer clear of the dusky tones for this look and experiment with one of the new bolder collections. This article was first published in the August 2018 issue of Professional Beauty UK.
Phenom
African Safari - Are You Lion To Me
online @ probeauty.co.za
Step by Step
60
This unusual and artistic design was created by South African beauty therapist, ELAINE TIMCKE.
After preparing the nail and cuticle area, apply a layer of Calgel natural gel (as a base) using a gel brush. Cure under a 36 Watt UV lamp for 30 seconds. Apply a layer of a nude colour gel (or any other light colour – we used Calgel colour CGBB16s). Cure for two minutes under a 36 Watt UV lamp. Repeat this step for a second layer of colour. You can change the final effect by using different colours in this step as well. The lighter the colour used in this step, the more dramatic the final effect will be. If you want a more subtle effect, you can choose a colour tone closest to the colour mentioned in step 3.
Apply a thin layer of CGMC02 (this is a golden metallic colour gel with a subtle green undertone) using a gel brush. Do not cure this layer. It is important to keep this layer uncured (wet) in order to create the bubble effect, and to ensure the final effect is flat and not raised.
Use a thin marble brush, nail art brush or even a dotting tool along with the Calgel natural gel that was used in step 1 (clear gel) and carefully place dots of this gel over the uncured metallic colour. Ensure you place these dots close together for the best effect. You can also control the size and spacing of the dots to create different effects like snakeskin, etc. Once the entire nail surface has been covered, cure under a 36 Watt UV lamp for two minutes.
Apply a layer of Calgel top gel, or Calgel non-wipe top gel as a finishing layer, using a gel brush. This will create a clear, hard, glossy layer that will not dull for up to four weeks.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business Product Techniques Trends News
61
How to prevent nail enhancements from lifting
O
TANIA BIDDLE, owner of Plush Nails & Beauty in Roodepoort, provides some top tips on how to ensure the longevity of enhancements.
ne of the most frequent questions I get asked is: ‘How can I stop my gel overlays or acrylic overlays from lifting?’ There are many contributing factors to this but I have seen over the years that long lasting product overlays come with practise and precise application. Having the product lift after a few days can be extremely frustrating and disheartening to the technician.
Here are my tips: 1. There is no such thing as a shortcut or a quick fix. Do your research and invest in a good and reputable brand. Remember and follow the techniques taught to you during training. Shortcuts often result in problems such as lifting and this might mean that the client won’t come back for more appointments. 2. A good nail plate preparation is vital to the application lasting. Prepare the cuticle outline properly and ensure that there are no traces of natural oils on the nail plate surface. Once you have finished with the nail plate preparation ask your client to keep her hands on the table, away from her face, hair and cell phone.
3. When doing a sculpture enhancement make sure that the nail form fits securely and that the lower curves are smooth and straight. 4. When sizing a tip, choose the correct size tip. A tip that is too small will exert pressure on the nail bed. The tip must fit flush with the nail and extend from side wall to side wall. 5. Ensure that no product touches the skin. The application around the cuticle area and side wall must be neat and thin.
6. When a client chooses to have nail enhancements, she will often request a longer length then what is practical. Discuss the length and shape with your client as well as her daily lifestyle choices. This will determine what is practical for the client so as to avoid discomfort and nail breakages. Ensure that the nail length has smooth and straight sides, avoiding areas that will hook which could cause lifting. 7. Make sure that the stress area is well reinforced, allowing for enough strength and support to the nail, with a well-balanced upper arch. 8. Explain the ‘do’s and don’ts’ for after care to your client. Treat nails as jewels, not as tools. Apply a cuticle oil and hand cream daily, especially during the drier winter months. 9. Encourage your client to book her next nail appointment before she leaves the salon. A two-tofour-week appointment is average, depending on the client’s nail type and condition.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business SalonTrends Focus
62
Nails with
Russian flair Pretoria East salon, Shine On Nail Art Design, is in the process of expanding its business. JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to owner and Russian nail artist, KSENIYA PECHYORINA, to find out more.
F
ounder of the Moreleta Park-based Shine On Nail Art Design, Kseniya Pechyorina, is proud to announce that she has secured the official distributorship for Akzentz Professional. “Products from this top quality Canadian brand will be available for sale in May and we are truly looking forward to sharing our knowledge with all professional nail technicians,” she says. “At Shine On we believe in using only exceptional quality products for our clients and Akzéntz gels are solvent, odour and cruelty-free,” she notes. Having started her career as a nail artist in 2010, Pechyorina moved to South Africa from Russia five years ago. The Russian nail industry is famed for its avant-garde and
online @ probeauty.co.za
innovative nail art. Pechyorina comments: “I must admit that the nail industry in Russia is extremely advanced – all the latest trends and techniques come from there. When I first moved to South Africa, I did notice a big difference in the style of nail art performed here as compared to Russia. However, I’m finding that interest for nail art amongst clients, as well as technicians, is growing day by day.”
Art on demand Shine On opened in January 2016 and now has three nail artists. “Our passion for nail art and the latest trends helps to keep our skills sharp, so that we can create the very best custom designs for clients. “About 80% of my clients request nail art; in some cases we do replicate ideas brought in by
clients, while other customers give us a total freedom to create. My absolute favourite are geometric and flowery designs,” states Pechyorina. Most of the services offered at Shine On are performed using 100% colour gel. Reinforcement and sculpting services using ‘combi gel’ (i.e. similar to acrylic) are also on offer. “In addition, we perform e-file manicures and pedicures, utilising an electronic file. You need to be highly skilled in order to provide professional nail services using e-file. This machine saves us a lot of time and does unmatched quality nail prep,” explains Pechyorina. While she enjoys running social media pages for Shine On, a lot of business is brought in as a result of word of mouth from delighted clients.
Product
HUB
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails
Battery-powered cure
Threads galore!
The Gelish 18G Unplugged LED Light combines the reliable 18G cure that technicians trust with the ease and mobility of a cordless light. The first LG lithium battery powered LED light, it is engineered using Gelish’s exclusive Intelligent Power Assist technology.
Available in black and white, the Bio Sculpture Bio Threading Gels have a high viscosity with tangy threading properties and may be applied directly from the jar onto the nail to create swirls or straight-line designs.
011 447 0659
0861 246 435
Escape route CND’s Sweet Escape Collection is a gorgeous pastel collection inspired by the romantic Victorian era and drawn from classic embroidery and paintings. It is available in Shellac Luxe Gel Polish, Shellac and Vinylux Long Wear Polish.
011 791 4027
Feet first With its spicy warm scent, LCN’s Warming Foot Cream warms cold, tired legs with horse chestnut extract, beeswax and red algae. Chili extract has been added to help promote good blood flow.
010 593 3293
Dare to go ‘bare’ The BareLuxury by Morgan Taylor Complete Pedicure & Manicure Kit takes a holistic approach with fragrances and formulas designed for the ultimate sensory experience.
011 447 0659
Evocative colours The It’s Not You, It’s Me Collection from NSI features six new Polish Pro shades with evocative names. They are: Love Lost; Better Fish in the Sea; Let’s Just Be Friends; So Not the One; Kept the Ring; and Slipped Away.
012 997 4010
online @ probeauty.co.za
Business In the Market Trends
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Business Trends Q&A
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Top Tech Talk NailFile puts the spotlight on Winnifreda Makombe, a passionate nail artist with her own Instagram handle (winnie_creations). What is your favourite nail, hand or foot treatment to perform? Definitely the hands and more specifically, I love doing nail extensions.
Do you have a preferred medium that you like to work with – i.e. lacquer, gel, gel polish, acrylic or tips? I do prefer doing acrylic on nails and using gel polish with the work that I do.
You are currently employed at YouBar in Illovo, Johannesburg. For how long have you been at this salon? It will be four years this year.
What first sparked your interest in nails? It started out as curiosity – I decided to have some fun with nails to see what kind of creativity I had. That was back in 2007. I’ve been a nail technician for 12 years now but am trained in all aspects of beauty, having slowly gravitated towards nails and subsequently finding my passion there. I trained at The Adas Tuition Centre, a technikon in Zimbabwe.
Do you get many requests for nail art? In fact, most of my requests are for nail art, with particular references from clients. I do a lot of glitter and ombre and sometimes I am asked to do animation characters.
The client is my boss.
online @ probeauty.co.za
What is your customer service ethos? The client is my boss.
What has been the most challenging nail art design that you’ve ever had to do? A bridal dress and tuxedo.
What has been the highlight of your nail career thus far? I was asked to be a part of a nail exposé and shoot for a publication where all the models’ nails were featured.
Do you have a nails mentor? Actually, I’ve never had a mentor in my nail career. Social media has become a big influence for me and I believe that you can learn a lot from the internet.
I am inspired by some of these woman, I learn from them and I certainly am intrigued by them!
What are your dreams for the future? What do you most love about your job as a nail tech? The women that I get to meet and the interaction I have with them.
I would love to own my own nail bar in the near future – one that specialises in the glitz and glam of nail art.
L
vision
72.8 KJ
A S E R S your future...today
Professional Mode
68%
Aesthetic Mode
OLED display of Applicator The unique OLED display built into the Applicator shows treatment settings and progress. This enables the operator to focus on treatment, which improves speed and safety of operation.
™Pro LasermachTM Pro is an integrated super platform for hair removal which combines three-wavelengths including 808nm, 755nm and 1064nm. It is suitable for all skin and hair types. It has both beauty and professional versions, a dual-system user interface and easy to use.
Automatic 24 point initiation check When the machine is turned on, an automated 24 point system safety check is launched. This ensures it is in perfect working order and highlights any problems to the user in advance.
Intelligent Software Applicator situation monitor Our intelligent system senses when the applicator is placed back in its holder and laser use is disabled in this position, making it impossible for accidental shots to be fired. The cooling system also automatically shuts off. These special features ensure that Lasermach is both safe and environmentally friendly.
Applications Aesthetic and Professional operating system.
755nm | 808nm | 1064nm combined, suitable for all skin and hair types.
8 hours continuous working.
Sapphire Crystal 4oC constant cooling and continuous protection of skin.
12mm x 20mm big spot size. Max. Output power up-to 1000W
Applicator with OLED display, the cumulative energy of treatment and operation progress are visible.
CONTACT DETAILS | Ali: +27 62 842 1664 | Email: ali@in-visiongroup.com