Oct/Nov 2018
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Our award winners share their secrets
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In this issue... Regulars
Special Features
Medical Aesthetics
5 Industry news
21 Tour de force
47 The relationship between the gut microbiome and healthy skin
Local and international news
51 Crowning glory
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
52 In the market
All the latest launches
28 Top industry achievers honoured
13 Ask the Experts
All your questions answered
Tracking the industry with stats
16 What’s in a name?
How staff should address clients
Microbial world explained
50 SAAHSP
Latest news from the Professional Body
Laser hair removal
34 Banish the build-up
Scrubs & exfoliators
38 Food for thought
15 Insider
Industry Awards – winners
33 Treatment Review
Business
Professional Beauty Awards – winners
Skincare with superfood ingredients
42 Streamlining the frame
Non-invasive body contouring
Spa Focus 18 ‘David Livingstone Spa, I presume?’
Zambian spa makes waves
52 online @ probeauty.co.za
2
A
Welcome
s you will see, much of this issue is devoted to the winners of the most prestigious awards in the industry, the Annual Professional Beauty Awards and the Industry Awards, which were announced at a glittering gala dinner event on 2 September at The Venue, Melrose Arch. We feel that it’s important for our winners to share the secrets of their success, which is why we have conducted interviews with them regarding their winning formulas. All the winners in the Professional Beauty Awards underwent a stringent judging process, having been visited and evaluated by two industry experts masquerading as mystery guests. There is no judging process in the Industry Awards (which are targeted at suppliers), all nominees and winners were voted on by the industry itself. In this last issue of the year, we focus on a growing trend in skincare, that of formulating products with superfoods. These are nutritionally dense foods, usually packed with anti-oxidants and vitamins which are believed to have beneficial effects not only on our health but on the skin as well. There is an environmental slant to our Product Focus section in this issue, which is dedicated to scrubs and exfoliators, particularly those free of micro-beads, the manufactured particles of solid plastics that pollute the sea and waterways. Body contouring treatments always become particularly popular in the spring and summer months, as clients seek quick fixes to rid themselves of surplus winter bulges and flab. In this issue we look at the latest laser and energy based devices designed for this application. Wishing you all a fabulous festive season and see you in 2019! Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
@PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOUTH AFRICA @probeautyexpo @PROBEAUTYSA
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5 News
News FDA warns against ‘inappropriate marketing’ of certain devices for ‘vaginal rejuvenation’ procedures While the South African Department of Health and Radiation Control only requires the CE mark of approval from the EU for products imported to South Africa, the US Food & Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) recent statement warning against ‘the inappropriate marketing’ of certain brands of devices for ‘vaginal rejuvenation’ has raised concern in some quarters. FDA commissioner Scott Gottlieb’s statement reads: “We’ve recently become aware of a growing number of manufacturers marketing ‘vaginal rejuvenation’ devices to women and claiming these procedures will treat conditions and symptoms related to menopause, urinary incontinence or sexual function. The procedures use lasers and other energy-based devices to destroy or reshape vaginal tissue. These products have serious risks and don’t have adequate evidence to support their use for these purposes. We are deeply concerned women are being harmed.” The statement notes that the FDA has cleared or approved laser and energy-based devices for the treatment of serious conditions like the destruction of abnormal or pre-cancerous cervical or vaginal tissue, as well as condylomas (genital warts), but hasn’t evaluated or confirmed the safety and effectiveness of these devices for ‘vaginal rejuvenation’. The FDA maintains that the ‘vaginal rejuvenation’ procedures have serious risks, especially when marketed for this use to women who have completed treatment for breast cancer and are experiencing symptoms caused by early menopause. Professional Beauty has spoken with various suppliers in South
Africa who are keen to point out that they comply with the law here, in that their machines bear the CE mark of approval from the EU, but not all suppliers have machines that are FDA approved. They all say that they are fully compliant with the requirements of the South African Department of Health: Division Radiation Control. “Our product range in the local market will never include a device that does not bear the CE mark of approval from the EU. This is our commitment to customers and consumers regarding sustainable technology and patient safety,” said one supplier. Another supplier told us that their device has received the medical CE mark in the EU and was thus evaluated for safety and effectiveness in the EU inter alia for the ‘Treatment of sexual dysfunction after vaginal delivery by means of improvement of vaginal laxity’. In addition to the EU, the device has been cleared for vaginal laxity (or similar clearance) in more than 15 other countries. They note that while the US FDA is responsible for market clearances and approvals in the US, it does not have any jurisdiction over other markets. However, they are working with the US FDA to gain approval in that country as well within the deadline stipulated by the FDA.
Professional Beauty contacted Dr Cobus van Niekerk, president of the Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine Society of South Africa (AAMSSA) for comment. “New treatments come onto the market at an alarming rate and we have to be cognisant using treatments that apply evidence based medicine,” said Dr Van Niekerk. “It has come to our attention that people still practice outside their scope of practice and in this instance with vaginal rejuvenation treatments. “It is imperative that we stay inside our scope of practice, and AAMSSA does not advocate these machines to be used by anyone other than a doctor or gynaecologist. The FDA recently sent out a warning that these devices can cause long term sideeffects and/or complications and discourages their use by clinicians purely from an aesthetic point of view.” Professional Beauty would advise all its readers who are considering the purchase of a machine for vaginal rejuvenation to ask questions regarding the approval of the machine they are considering and to talk to more than one supplier to ensure they make the correct purchasing decision for a product that suits their needs.
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News
6
inbrief // Alison Yammin has been appointed Chief Operating Officer at Marine Spa Distributors, following 11 years at the company, where she looked after its core brands – Thalgo la Beaute Marine, CSpa Aroma Wellness and more recently, LPG Endermologie.
// Luxury German skincare brand, Babor, has reformulated its Skinovage range in line with the ground-breaking findings of the young field of epigenetic research, which has found that only 30% of the way we age is determined by genes. The other 70% can be influenced by lifestyle, diet and the right skincare.
Wellness now a $4.2 trillion global industry New Global Wellness Institute (GWI) research reveals that the wellness market is growing at a historic rate – nearly twice as fast as the global economy – with 12.8% growth from 2015 to 2017. The global wellness industry grew from a $3.7 trillion market in 2015 to $4.2 trillion in 2017, according to an in-depth research report, the 2018 Global Wellness Economy
Monitor, released by GWI. The wellness industry now represents 5.3% of global economic output. Among the 10 wellness markets analysed, revenue growth leaders from 2015-2017 (per annum) were: (1) the spa industry (9.8%); (2) wellness tourism (6.5%); and (3) wellness real estate (6.4%).
Professional Beauty Johannesburg a success
// Marelize Kuhn, who has worked for LS Enterprises for the past five years, was recently promoted to the position of National Sales Manager. Kuhn has been a finalist in the Best Sales Representative category of the Professional Beauty Awards for 2016, 2017 and 2018.
// A vaccine that could help treat and prevent acne is a step closer to reality after scientists successfully targeted acne-causing bacteria and stopped it producing the toxins which cause inflammation. The study was carried out by a team at the University of California in San Diego.
// The NPD Group’s 2018 Makeup In-Depth Consumer Report has found that 90% of US women reported using make-up with skincare benefits. Twothirds of respondents stated they use these make-up products in addition to separate skincare offering the same benefits.
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Several bookings have already been secured for the 2019 Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show, following the overwhelming success of this year’s event which took place at Gallagher Convention Centre on 2 & 3 September. The show, which featured over 200 exhibitors, encompassed the Salon Africa Expo, the World Spa & Wellness Convention, the Medical Aesthetics & Advanced Treatments Convention, the Annual Nail & Make-up Competition, Nail Seminars, Business Skills Seminars and the Professional Beauty Awards & Industry Awards. Commenting on Professional
Beauty Johannesburg, Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA, said: “The measures that Professional Beauty put in place to cut the public and retail clients down resulted in professional trade leads from around the country. We also got a number of good prospects from several of the African countries.” Thyrza Price of Venus Concept Africa concurred that the show organisers worked hard to filter registrations and ensure that exhibitors received professional visitors and influencers. “We had a great show as a result,” notes Price. The 2019 Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show will take place on 1 & 2 September at Gallagher Convention Centre.
Africa’s BIGGEST beauty and hair trade show The Professional Beauty Exhibitions offer salon and spa owners, managers, therapists and nail technicians the perfect opportunity to engage their senses. Whether choosing new products, looking for new ideas, the latest trends and learning new techniques.
Diarise next year’s dates now so that you don’t miss out! Cape Town
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News
9
Make-up artists shine at Professional Beauty competition The recent annual Professional Beauty Make-up Competition, which ran on 2 September as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show at Gallagher Convention Centre, attracted a slew of talented professional and student entries. Ever Beauty® South Africa was the competition sponsor. The judges were Dmiele Steyl and Mpho Mmese. Here are the results in the various categories: • Photographic 1st Place – Tanya Olivier (Tanya Olivier Professional Make-up) 2nd Place – Stella Kalyminios (Star Make over) 3rd Place – Lara Botha (Oakfields College) • Glamour Make-up Student 1st Place – Emma De Kock (Evolved)
2nd Place – Melissa Gloy (Hair Trends) 3rd Place – Audrey Paradza (Elite School) • Glamour Make-up Professionals 1st Place – Yasira Suley (Make-up by Yasira) 2nd Place – Laurika van Rooyen (Make-up by Laurika)
3rd Place – Evandra Botha • Multi Media Fantasy Students 1st Place – Samantha De Beer (Oakfields College) • Multi Media Fantasy Professionals 1st Place – Carmen Kruger 2nd Place – Mpho Pathela (Magnifique looks)
PCASA highlights pertinent industry issues international speaker; Anastasia worth up to R140,000. Kharina from the UK, was MC for As from 1 March 2019, PCASA the conference. will offer insurance cover to the It was announced that PCASA value of R5m per member as part and SAAHSP (Professional Body of their membership fee. for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Bloodborne pathogen training is Industry) will now work in unison to now also part of PCASA improve standards in the industry. membership benefits. Each PCASA member will automatically receive membership from SAAHSP at no extra charge with PCASA covering the account. Fifteen PCASA delegates competed in the Microblading and Permanent Aesthetic medicine practitioner, Dr Adri Hofmeister, has opened the Eden MediSpa in the One Forest Make-Up health and wellness centre in George, Western Cape. Championships Hofmeister (second from right) is pictured with Carla and winners Van Niekerk, John Heath and Marlize Fourie. received prizes
News in pictures
Topics such as psychology, disclosing industry complexities, diversity of available techniques and how to apply them, professionalism in business and laser tattoo removal came under the spotlight at the recent International Permanent Make-up Conference and Championship at the Protea Hotel Fire and Ice Menlyn. Over 80 delegates from South Africa and abroad attended the event, which was hosted by PCASA (Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa). International speakers, Alina Soloveva from Russia, an aesthetic dermopigmentation master trainer, and Hungarian celebrity make-up artist, Dora Hollos, both presented master classes with live demos on Hollywood Brows. This is a combination of the finest hair strokes and shading with the use of a digital permanent make-up device and 3D Genuine Brows. Another
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News
10
W³ expands global footprint Some 633 properties in 88 countries, including South Africa, celebrated the 2nd World Wellness Weekend (W3) on 22 and 23 September. Say W3 founder, Jean-Guy de Gabriac of Tip Touch International: “The weekend coincided with Autumn Equinox, when the daytime and night time are equal, symbolising the work / life balance. “During this global wellness event, properties such as spas, hotels, yoga/Pilates studios, fitness clubs, sport associations and martial art dojos, promote their expertise and creativity by registering on the W3 website. It takes less than three minutes to appear on the World Wellness Map.”
De Gabriac explains that W3 encourages owners and managers to work hand in hand with their marketing & communication departments to promote a ‘Wellness Weekend package’, with a room and activities. “Some properties bundle mini-treatments with special offers on products in order to do good and do well, as they meet their monthly objectives. A clever strategy is also to implement ‘bounce-back offers’ to have newcomers return with deals like ‘3 steps to wellness’. Finally, the concept of encouraging guests to come back with a ‘Wellness buddy’ generates double bookings, adding a social dimension to spa, fitness and wellness activities.
“These actions truly harness the business potential of Wellness, while promoting a vital message of prevention,” concludes De Gabriac. He notes that one of W3’s objectives is to remind people that, while health is a relationship between your body and a doctor; wellness is a responsible relationship between your body / mind and yourself.
Isa Carstens celebrates 40 years Isa Carstens Academy recently celebrated its 40th anniversary by hosting two functions – one in Stellenbosch where the first Campus was established in 1978, as well as in Pretoria (where the new Campus was officially opened in Lynnwood during 2016.). These prestigious events were shared with alumni, colleagues, students, staff and various partners in the industry. Says Isa Carstens Academy’s Isabel Roos: “We are extremely grateful for this amazing journey and thank everyone that was and is part of the journey and will continue to be part of it, as we continue to grow and develop.”
New appointment at DLT Media John Owens has been appointed as Head of Regional Sales and Retention at DLT Media. Owens was previously a regional sales manager working for a company for over 15 years and is a former Mr South Africa (2014). Says Owens: “My plans for DLT are quite simple. We are already
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the largest supplier of magazines to businesses in South Africa, as well as the only company that supplies new editions. So my plans are to be able to supply more than a hundred different titles and give clients the opportunity to manage their subscriptions to all 100 titles on one single platform, with a single subscription.”
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13 Business Tips
ask
the experts
Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.
How can I make more effective use of social media to market my salon? When asked about the beauty industry, top entrepreneur and blogger, Seth Godin, said: “Everything we do is marketing – the name of things, the price of things, the way you answer the phones and the way you dress, the way the thing works. You’re judged on these things…” Never before have we been able to direct our advertising at such an exact target market, based on area, age, gender, hobbies, interests, lifestyle behaviours AND have a way to track and analyse AND all for so little spend. To quote from Digital Stats, SA: ‘Of the 57 million South African population, over 30+ million use the internet, 18 million of them are on social media, 16 million of those via mobile phone.’ (Jan 2018, source: https://www.slideshare.net/ wearesocial/digital-in-2018-insouthern-africa-86865907). So, what should we be doing with social media at the moment? • Learn how to target people using Facebook and Instagram. • Know your audience. • Use current clients to gather info on their social media habits and preferred platforms. • Make your salon different and stand out, otherwise you’re competing in the same market as any other salon in your area.
• Prior to any social media or marketing activity, your salon marketing plan should be based on info you have to assist in your way forward: AUDIT – where are we now? GOALS – where do we want to be? APPROACH – how can we get there? IMPLEMENT – tools to help. EVALUATE – measuring success. • Attend social media training. • Use Google and YouTube, it’s free so spend 30 or so hours learning how to target your audience the best way possible (look out for Facebook pixel and conversion optimisation).
What’s ahead in terms of technology? Video is and continues to be what consumers want so turn your everyday basic Facebook and Instagram posts into videos, create your own tutorials, shoot a short, hyped-up Facebook Live, which then saves as video to your albums. Videos are prominently shown on mobile, versus just images and posts. An Internet Bot, also known as web robot, WWW robot or simply bot, according to Wikipedia, is a software application that runs automated tasks over the internet. Typically, bots perform tasks that are both simple and structurally repetitive, at a much higher rate than would be
possible for a human alone. A good example of this on social media is using Facebook Messenger to not only respond to messages, but also send out automated messages to entice call-to-actions – this is predicted to be a successful tool when used correctly. Recommended reading: • Seth Godin: https//www. sethgodin.com/ • Gary Vee (warning, extreme foul language, but brilliant nonetheless): https://www. garyvaynerchuk.com/ Also, a must-watch about social media: https://www.facebook.com/ garyvee/videos/ 341889679689818/ • Free photos: https://unsplash. com/ • Design site & on App (life changing!): https://www.canva. com/ • Instaglam Express: download this SA designed app get all fashion, hair, fashion, beauty, education and more to come. PB
Ursula Brett is a marketing & social media coach who has been marketing a variety of professional hair and beauty brands for over 30 years. She manages social media pages and websites now and also trains on the subject. Email ursulabrett@gmail.com
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15 Business Trends
Insider Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled beauty salons and spas in South Africa to track business in August 2018.
Insider Spa While a big majority of you (66%) reported an increase in treatment business in August 2018 as compared to the same time last year, more than half noted a definite decline in retail figures. Guests seem to be more willing to spend extra on treatments rather than home care. Other reasons cited were an average drop in the number of clients, and the adverse economy. One spa that experienced an increase in treatment business reported that its Woman’s Day package did phenomenally well and saw a lot of businesses booking spa days for its female clientele. In another instance, a spa’s newly expanded staff complement reaped benefits in terms of treatment revenue. We asked you which skin condition was most prevalent in your clients and the overwhelming response was fine lines and dehydration, with some spas also citing pigmentation. As to what your biggest financial outlay was this year, most of you said staff and stock.
Insider Salon Salons continue to struggle in terms of making a profit in the midst of the current bad economy, as they have done over the past two years. Clients are still tightening their belts and regarding beauty treatments as a luxury rather than a necessity. However, some salons did note a slight increase in treatment business as compared to August 2017, due to the approach of Spring and clients wanting to start working on their appearance in the run-up to holiday season. Fine lines were cited as the most prevalent skin condition at salons, and most of your financial overlay over the past year went on stock, staff and rent. PB
The month in numbers
SALON 53
SPA 70 Average treatment room occupancy
Average treatment room occupancy
%
%
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2018 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2017?
66% 3% 31% Better
SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2018 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2017?
47% Better
0% SAME
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2018 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2017?
21% 7% 72% Better
SAME
WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2018 COMPARE WITH AUGUST 2017?
53%
19%
WORSE
Better
11%
70% WORSE
SAME
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Business Tips
16
What’s in a
name
P
The manner in which our staff address our clients may seem like a small thing but it can leave a lasting impression. Hellen Ward explores the options.
icture the scene…I’m in a shop buying (yet another) leather metallic beach bag that I’m planning to take to Ibiza. The only problem is that they didn’t have it in stock so the assistant told me she could order it online. “Can I have your email address, my lovely?” she asked. Your what?! Surely I haven’t heard her correctly. I was actually rendered quite speechless (rare for me). “Did you say that’s Hellen with two ‘ls’, my lovely?” she asked. My face must have been a picture. Now, here I am, knocking on 51, certainly old enough to be her mother and, admittedly, very lovely. But I am not her lovely. She is a millennial shop assistant. I am her customer, not her lovely. In a minute, she’s going to be calling me sweet cheeks, I feared. “So, you can pick it up on Wednesday. Alright, my dear?” No, it is not all right. In fact, it’s outrageous, I wanted to say. But it got me thinking. Is it her fault? Has anyone told her that it’s not ok to call your customers “dear”, “lovely” or even the dreaded “guys”?
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Simple words
I know it’s a generational thing, but if I don’t know a customer’s name I still call them sir or madam. Even when long-standing clients ask me to call them by their first name, I struggle. Showing respect I know it’s a generational thing, but if I don’t know a customer’s name I still call them sir or madam. Even when long-standing clients ask me to call them by their first name, I struggle. To me they are Mr or Mrs. It’s just respectful of the relationship. So, what should your younger team members call our customers? I understand that sir or madam are a bit outdated. But there must be a middle ground between that and “guys”.
Back to my story. My millennial shop assistant committed another cardinal customer service sin in closing our transaction. When I left, I said thank you, as I always do, and she said, “That’s OK”. No, it is not OK. The “thank you” is not intended to express that you have gone out of your way to help me, it’s merely manners. Staff in a service occupation should never reply, “That’s OK”. Take a leaf out of some other cultures and say, “You’re welcome”, or even the Spanish “de nada”, which is my favourite and literally translates to “it’s nothing”. But do not tell me that it’s OK. I know it’s OK – I have just spent money in your workplace and therefore helped pay your wages. I do not need your approval. Maybe it’s time we spoke to our teams and reminded them that something so seemingly trivial as how we address our clients could actually be the very thing that may make them look elsewhere. PB Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square. hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk
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Spa Focus
18
“David Livingstone Spa, I presume?” In a small industry that is extremely difficult to trade in, the spa at the aha David Livingstone Safari Lodge in Zambia is making waves – having become the first and only organic spa in the country, plus being the first to join the Global Wellness Day Campaign, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
W
ith its breathtakingly beautiful setting on the banks of the Zambezi River in south western Zambia, the spa at the aha David Livingstone Safari Lodge is a rarity in this country, being an authentic spa. Says spa manager, Leandre Fuhri: “Zambia’s salon sector – mainly hair (weaves) and nails is big and we do find a lot of socalled ‘spas’ popping up, but they are really salons named ‘spa’ due to a misunderstanding of what a spa really is. “However, it is encouraging to see that the true concept of spa is slowly breaking through the stigma of ‘inappropriate happenings’, where in Zambian culture they do not understand that we would touch people’s bodies in a non-sexual way.” She notes that the particular mission of the spa for the 2018
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Spa at a glance Owner: aha Hotels and Lodges (a division of Tourvest) Spa manager: Leandre Fuhri Number of treatment rooms: 5 Number of therapists: 4 Brands: Esse, African Organics, Gwenya Hydro facilities: indoor plunge pool, steam room
Global Global Wellness Day campaign was emotional wellness and getting people to take care of their hearts. “This was our first year to join the Global Wellness Day campaign and it was a huge success, enjoyed by both our spa ladies and the guests that joined us. We hope to grow this concept in Zambia and get others to join this amazing quest in the future. To be honest, we had always
Spa Focus
19
wanted to join the campaign but were not sure how to until Celeste Peters from the South African Spa Association gave us guidance. “In our area people do not acknowledge wellness and most of us are workaholics but we were able to share the Global Wellness Day manifesto with everyone in the hotel. In fact we had a week long awareness campaign in the hotel itself and managed to get all the staff to take time out. We moved away from the actual manifesto as most of our clients needed something a little different, hence the color therapy breathing relaxation session which kicked off the day. This was followed by a ladies lunch to catch up with each other and bond again. We ended off with a little spoil (massage) for each lady.”
Zambian touch All the spa’s therapists are hand chosen and reared from the area. Fuhri continues: “We train the ladies to do all body massages, facials, manicures and pedicures, body scrubs and wraps. We do not offer artificial nail technologies as we really do not have the market for it. Any of our local clients that may want such nail services are referred to a smaller salon to support local
small business as well. “Our number one best-selling spa treatment is still massage and guests from all over the world think our ladies are the best. I would have to agree, Zambian ladies just have the gift of touch. The biggest blessing in our spa is the therapists. Zambians are a peace loving people with a supernatural love for each other
and we find this comes through in the way our therapists look after their clients. This kind of client care cannot be taught.”
Massage inspiration Most of the massages are inspired by the spa’s beautiful environment, but Fuhri has still kept the massage classics like Swedish, aromatherapy and deep tissue. “We have made all our African Inspired massages a little longer. Our David Livingstone massage is a 90-minute full body massage, incorporating the best of both worlds as we do a Swedish massage and then include hot stone massage to the back. “The Zambian Signature massage is called the Ukuchina Massage and can only be done in this country. We start off with a hot compress to squeeze out the muscles and then go into the physical massage. This massage is an amazing healer and is used locally when you have had flu, malaria, after giving birth, plus we find for our travelers it helps with their body pains and water retention. We also make use of healing blends (essential oils) in the water of the hot compress. But in the villages they would use leaves from guava, mango and lemon trees and let them boil >
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20 Spa Focus
We are still finding ways to be even greener daily and find it is a rewarding ongoing commitment.”
Facilities The spa has five treatment rooms in total, including a permanent couple’s room and another that can be converted to couples if needed. Both of these are used as wet treatment rooms as are the three singles. Rooms are airconditioned to provide relief from the intense heat. and rest overnight before starting the massage. “Our facials and beauty treatments have more of a western influence as we still find them to be market leaders in these fields and want to showcase that even when using African based and organic products, we can still offer the same kind of experience that they are used to back home.”
Organic route The spa went fully organic in 2016 and is the only spa in Zambia that is so. As to why she chose to go organic, Fuhri comments: “Let me start by saying it this way, in Livingstone our traffic jam would be a herd of elephants. We were using European products that were amazing everywhere else, but due to trucking the stock up to us in the heat, the result we were hoping for was not there and we realised that as organic as that traffic jam was, we needed
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to look for something that complemented our environment and was ahead in its field. “We tested a number of organic products and chose Esse Organic Skincare. Their Probiotic range had what we were looking for inside the bottle. They had the look we wanted and then they proved to have the heart we didn’t know we also wanted. Esse employs single mothers to wildly
harvest their main ingredients in Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa. The brand has Ecocert organic certification, is Peta registered and conforms to Phytotrade Africa (sustainable harvesting) and Fairtrade Africa “From the moment we changed our skincare range to an organic one, we slowly started changing everything, from switch and save systems all the way to organic guest amenities (African Organics) and Gwenya as our body treatment products.
“We find that because Livingstone is a tourist destination, we have a lot of noise from micro-lights and helicopters flying over the Victoria Falls,” notes Fuhri. “These are amazing experiences but not suited to experiencing a relaxing massage so we rely on soothing music to assist us. “Guests are encouraged to have a sundowner on the lodge deck to enjoy the most beautiful sunset you will ever see – on your right (up river), and then to your left (down river) you can see ‘The Smoke that Thunders’ or ‘Mosiau-Tunya’ as we call it, commonly known as the Victoria Falls. This really is the ultimate post massage experience.” Hydro facilities include a plunge pool in the Spa Relaxation Zone that looks out onto the Zambezi River, as well as a steam room. These are complimentary to all hotel guests and any guests booked into the spa for a treatment. PB
21 Professional Beauty Awards
Tour de force The winners of the 2018 Professional Beauty Awards were announced at a glittering gala dinner event held on 2 September at The Venue in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, attended by some 270 industry professionals.
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egarded as the most prestigious awards in the industry, the Professional Beauty Awards acknowledge the year’s top salons, spas, medical aesthetic clinics, therapists and managers, with each category judged by two mystery guests.
London-based Professional Beauty CEO, Mark Moloney, opened the gala dinner awards event, following which the MC for the evening, popular comedian and TV personality, Tats Nkonzo, performed an energetic and hilarious stand-up routine that had the audience rolling about in their seats.
The winners and nominees were... SALON OF THE YEAR (3 rooms or less) • The Best Laser Skin & Body (Winner) • C’est La Vie • Beauty Studio River Branch SALON OF THE YEAR (4 rooms or more) • Professional Skin Care Lab (Winner) • D’Vine Skin & Body • ISA Wellness Sanctuary MEN’S GROOMING SALON OF THE YEAR • Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge (Winner) • Glass House Rejuvenation • Bar Ber Black Sheep NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR • Ten Fold Nail Salon (Winner) • Bloom & Bare Nail & Beauty • Capri Nail & Beauty SPECIALITY SALON OF THE YEAR • NakedCherry Waxing Parkhurst (Winner) • The Brow Bar Menlyn • Wink & Whisper
AESTHETIC SALON OF THE YEAR • The Aesthetic Studio (Winner) • Aesthetic Lab Hazelwood • Skin Logic DAY SPA OF THE YEAR • Life Day Spa Waterfront (Winner) • Aloe Day Spa • Hammam Turkish Bath & Spa GAME RESERVE SPA OF THE YEAR • Thaba Tshwene Enviro Sanctuary Spa (Winner) • Askari Lodge & Spa • Valley Lodge & Spa RESORT/HOTEL SPA OF THE YEAR • Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa (Winner) • Life Day Spa Century City • Africology Maslow SALON/SPA MANAGER OF THE YEAR • Shana Alexio (Winner) • Cecilia Labuschagne – The Beauty Studio • Terri Ford – Dante Wellness
THERAPIST OF THE YEAR • Terry Morris – Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge (Winner) • Nicole Kaylynne Powell – ISA Wellness Sanctuary • Charlotte Timms – The Skinworx Project NAIL PROFESSIONAL OF THE YEAR • Maureen Brill – Bio Sculpture Gel Carltonville (Winner) • Khomotso Carol Mabulana – Motso’s Nails • Nadia Erasmus – Nadz Hope Nails Kuilsriver online @ probeauty.co.za
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DAY SPA OF THE YEAR Life Day Spa Waterfront (John Lambrou) Spa at Century City? The Waterfront spa is perhaps a little more chic, while the Century City spa is more down to earth. Each spa has a different ‘personality’, but both have beautiful aesthetics that are in line with the standards prescribed by the Spas of Distinction Collection.
In your presentation at the recent World Spa & Wellness Convention, you said, ‘Your staff is your client’. Please elaborate.
Congratulations – it’s quite an achievement for a relatively new spa to win an award. When did the spa actually open? Two years ago.
I believe that the spa is a bit different in look and feel to your multiple award-winning Life Day
We invest a tremendous amount of time and effort in developing our people. Continuous training and coaching is provided throughout the year. At the end of the day, we encourage each person to become a ‘master of their craft’ and to be the best they can possibly be. Each person has to think about how they can provide a solution to meet the needs of their client by identifying said needs upfront and then tailor making their treatments and home care accordingly. We also love to promote from within and have several examples of team members who started as therapists and are now managers – the manager of the Waterfront, Mari Botha, is a case in point.
HOTEL/RESORT SPA OF THE YEAR Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa (Michele Walker) apart in the market? We try to remain true to our brand in everything we do and do not waiver from this in all aspects. This includes standards, our ‘special Umngazi touch’ and recruiting a team who ‘lives our brand’.
Does the spa enjoy a high percentage of return business?
How does it feel to have won this award for an amazing sixth time? Winning this time was an amazing feeling – the teams were beyond excited. When you have won awards in the past, guests come to you with big expectations. We love that this award keeps us on our toes daily. There is no ‘bad day’ when you are an ambassador for an award like Professional Beauty.
Apart from its stunningly beautiful location, what sets Umngazi Spa
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We are very privileged to boast very high occupancies and over 80% of our guests rebook their stays with us and return every year. By continually ‘re-inventing’ and updating the hotel and spa (through menu updates, spa promotions and special touches), we manage to bring our guests back. Sometimes the guest’s expectation (especially when you are winning awards) is very high but this keeps up striving for higher standards to exceed these expectations.
How do you retain staff? Our team are amazing! We include them in all aspects of the hotel – including duty management responsibilities and encourage them to be involved in special functions too. We have ongoing training programmes within the spa. Staff are paid market related salaries and good commission on both retail and treatments, and they receive bonuses.
GAME RESERVE SPA OF THE YEAR – Thaba Tshwene Enviro Sanctuary Spa (Maria Magdalena) How important is it for your spa to win prestigious awards like this? We as a business are always striving to better ourselves in all aspects, and winning an award of this stature reaffirms that we are in fact moving in the correct direction.
What do you feel is unique about your spa? The spa is based on a spiritual, natural and selfawareness foundation. Clients not only come to relax in the mainstream sense of a spa but can also reflect on their inner health and take responsibility for it. The spa also incorporates nature knowledge with the herbs that are planted and used, the colours throughout the treatment rooms, and meditation. We offer clients a variety of unique concepts in the way of a Reflexology Sensory Path, a Labyrinth, a Grounding Route, a meditation room and the outdoor areas that take in the magnificent views.
How do you go about keeping your services and products relevant? As the owner, I am very involved with the day to day running of the spa and very often personally
take clients through the spa, therefore allowing them to give feedback and suggestions. I take it all on board, do my research and see where inspiration takes me.
What is your customer service policy? With having two accommodation and function venues, we are very aware that return business is the cornerstone of any successful business. We have thus incorporated the following points into our business: service excellence; offering clients value for money; personalised service together with professionalism; keeping the lines of communication with clients open; privacy policy (maintaining faith and trust in the establishment); and being environmentally responsible.
AESTHETIC CLINIC OF THE YEAR – The Aesthetic Studio (Leverne King) How does it feel to have won this award? It’s a great honour to be recongised within our industry.
What would you say are the outstanding features of your clinic? The staff, the professional and welcoming atmosphere, as well as our level of expertise, which is obvious from the first visit.
What is your philosophy regarding clients? The client’s journey is seen as a partnership with the clinic.
Do you have any future plans for your clinic? We would like to leave a legacy through establishing an empire, by bridging the gap in the industry. online @ probeauty.co.za
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SALON OF THE YEAR (3 ROOMS OR LESS) – The Best Laser & Skin (Maryke Kaasjager) What is your salon’s vision? Our mission is to be a source of inspiration and empowerment to not just our clients, but everyone we encounter. We want to bring out the best in people; we’re all about following our passions and uplifting people.
What is your service ethos? Be respectful, be passionate about what you do, offer exceptional service and listen.
How does it feel to have won this award?
What are your plans for the future?
We are absolutely over the moon to have won this prestigious award. I think it is still sinking in for us. With the reward comes a big responsibility to maintain our high standards even more with each and every client.
We have exciting new treatments and product development in the pipeline. Our training is ongoing throughout the year, but I would like to kick it up a notch, especially following the award.
SALON OF THE YEAR (4 ROOMS OR MORE) – Professional Skin Care Lab (Gina Gall) the salon each year when the time for the award announcement comes around. And, when we find out we’ve won, our clients are every bit as proud as we are – they feel special knowing they support an award-winning salon. We find our clients are profuse in their referrals, so we do see an increase in new clients as a result. Furthermore, we use the award in our social media marketing, as it shows what we have achieved. It’s ‘proof’ that we deliver consistently highquality treatments and service. This accolade is a very valuable marketing tool and one that reaps results.
What an achievement to have won this award four times in a row! It is an amazing achievement and we’re so proud to have been acknowledged once again. We have worked really hard towards this, so it feels great to be able to enjoy the award, knowing that our perseverance has paid off. The whole team is feeling very special right now!
Does winning awards aid in marketing? Absolutely! In the lead-up to the award announcement, our clients are with us on the nerve-racking journey, excited and anxious for us. There’s a definite buzz in
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How do you ensure client loyalty? We are completely dedicated to our clients, always going the extra mile, never saying no, doing whatever it takes to ensure their happiness and satisfaction. We customise treatments to ‘keep it fresh’ and our clients know we are constantly on the look-out for innovations and new products that will work for them. The team makes our clients feel special by taking an interest in their lives – the relationship is not limited to the time spent in the salon. We have a deep respect for our clients and they in turn, respect us. Our loyal clients keep coming back because they know we really care.
MEN’S GROOMING SALON OF THE YEAR – Hines and Harley (Jared Hines) How does it feel to have won this award two years in a row? It feels amazing! I believe that my team and I are showing the industry and our clients the passion and love we have for what we do. Winning two years in a row means we are continually raising the standards and we will continue to do so.
Have you made any changes to the salon over the last year? We have streamlined our offering. Now we create our very own range of shaving and beard products, which are made on site and are all organic and natural. We have one skincare brand – TheraVine – and one hair care brand – London Grooming. Having one brand per need makes the salon’s brand and staff more professional. We have expanded our waxing offering thanks to the demand from our clients and now also offer beard tinting. Furthermore, we have introduced a course option for our clients, where they are able to purchase two treatments in a four-week period for a reduced
price. Clients love this and are returning more regularly.
How do you keep staff motivated? I believe that one needs to be a leader and not a boss. The fact that I am in the grooming lounge almost every day and working with my staff improves the energy and work ethic. Paying staff what they are worth makes people feel worthwhile, plus we get staff who want to work harder because they see that we value them as highly as we do our clients. Our business philosophy has always been a synergy between owner, staff and clients. It is an exchange of energy that we resect by always bringing our best selves to the task.
SPECIALITY SALON OF THE YEAR – NakedCherry (Meghan Tear Percy) How does it feel to have won this inaugural category award? Just the creation of this category makes us feel seen and understood – to have won this award is something else! Our singular focus has always been on waxing, though knowing other salons offer many services and do them well can make one wonder where we fit in. But we did set out to disrupt the industry, after all, so to be recognised by Professional Beauty for our focus and passion is the ultimate validation.
What particular niche is NakedCherry targeted at? We love to prove that waxing can be memorable for all the right reasons, and so we try to reach those who have had bad experiences with waxing – not just those who have no experience. At the same time, our focus on hygiene and homecare draws people who have been waxing for years and so desire consistently professional and thorough treatments. We’d also like to think that anyone who gets a kick out of our name is part of our niche as well.
Why do you think NakedCherry stood out for the judges? It has to be our ‘Wax Enthusiasts’; they are the ones not only carrying out our hygiene promises with every client and every treatment, but also ensuring clients feel comfortable and listened to. They really are superstars. Beyond that, I hope the judges liked our no-fuss approach to a salon environment (our floors, for example, are the same material often used in hospitals), and that they found everyone they dealt with to be friendly and eager to assist them.
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THERAPIST OF THE YEAR – Terry Morris (Hines and Harley) What sets you apart from other therapists? I don’t judge myself against other therapists, I judge myself on my clients’ happiness. I focus on the job in front of me, and perform it to the best of my capabilities. All therapists have different styles of working, and finding your niche is important. Working to your strengths is going to make things easier for you, and result in better reactions from your clients.
What factors do you focus on in order to excel at your profession? The first big factor is education as when you think you know everything, then problems start setting in. I make sure to always try to up-skill myself, whether it be training workshops, client surveys, or receiving
mentorship from more experienced therapists. Time is another important factor – I make sure to make my appointments work around my client’s schedules, and I’m very strict with the time available. I never rush through clients, or squeeze people in between other guests. Every treatment is customised, and I keep track of my client’s history to build a lasting relationship with long term goals to aspire to.
What do you like most about your job? I like seeing results, specifically in cases where the client comes to me with a problem. I also like it when clients become completely comfortable with you – it feels like you are having friends visiting instead of just treating strangers. One of the best feelings is when your guest comes in grumpy and tired, and leaves a happy and refreshed person.
What else would you like to accomplish in your career? I want to widen my skill set and study more to become accomplished in a wide variety of treatments related to cosmetology. Seeing Hines and Harley become a high quality household name would make me very proud of our hard work.
SALON/SPA MANAGER OF THE YEAR – Shana Aleixo services is a big part of the job as we mainly sit reception, answer calls as well as emails. We need to be able to upsell, close a retail sale, as well as help your therapists. In addition, marketing is important to help your salon grow, plus you need to be aware of any new trends and services becoming popular in the industry. Lastly, the ability to lead a team; successful leaders can solve conflicts, enforce rules and make employees feel valued.
How do you motivate your staff?
What qualities make for a good salon manager? Firstly, organisation; a salon manager needs to be organised and have daily structures and procedures in place. Secondly, hiring experience; you need to know what you are looking for and what kind of standards your company holds. Thirdly, sales & marketing skills; as a manager, selling products and
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This can be tricky, as you need to know what pushes your staff to perform and what they appreciate. It also comes down to how the manager keeps the team spirit up. As a manager, I set achievable targets based on staff performance each month (it should increase every month) and incentivise when targets are met (eg. product incentives, lunches, small gifts). You should appreciate your staff daily, praise them where it is needed but keep them on their toes all the time and push them with their targets. I do daily morning briefings and believe in keeping staff knowledgeable.
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NAIL SALON OF THE YEAR – Tenfold Nail Salon (Georgia Shekeshe) Is this the first time you’ve entered the competition? Yes, it’s the first time we’ve entered. It still feels surreal to have won – there are no words to convey the depth of the joy and gratitude I feel.
What makes your salon stand out in an oversaturated market? There are so many amazing emerging nail salons out there, which keeps us on our toes and reminds us to stay dedicated to our mission. We won’t appeal to everyone – but that’s okay; we just have to offer the best we can to those who understand our brand and connect with us.
and humble with strong moral values, who want to be of service to others. In addition to that, we have the Tenfold framework (our SOP), which guides us all in terms of delivering an overall feel– good customer experience from start to finish.
What practices have you implemented to ensure success?
How do you ensure return business?
A large part of business success depends entirely on the kind of team one accumulates. Knowledge and skills are least important – I am not saying they are not important but in a descending order of priority as knowledge and skills in this day and age can be acquired fairly easily. So we ensure we employ the right people, people that are nice
Our focus is so much on the customer experience – we are only as good as the last manicure we gave and that all leads back to the experience. A good experience is something you can’t stop talking about and our business really thrives off word of mouth in that way.
NAIL PROFESSIONAL OF THE YEAR – Maureen Brill What does winning this award mean to you? Since I came to learn about this award, I was driven to win it within two to three years. To be nominated was already a reward on its own. To have won is a blessing. I will enjoy this title to the fullest and the publicity I receive will up my income as this is a competitive industry.
What would you say are the ideal qualities of a top nail tech? Care for each client as if she is scoring you. A top nail tech should not be hurting or filing on cuticles any more. I don’t cut corners – I fully utilise everything learnt in training.
What do you most love about your job?
What advice would you give to someone just starting a career in nails?
I love nail art! I love how each day I can design new things on all 10 nails, a new and fresh ‘canvas’. As well as enjoying working with people, I am a shoulder to cry on, confiding in my clients’ trust and allowing them to feel emotionally uplifted after each treatment.
Look for a mentor or educator who goes the extra mile. Go for constant training until you are settled and have a good client base. Care for your client, but remember that it is a job and today’s ‘favour’ may well become tomorrow’s ‘obligation’, so therefore set boundaries.
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Top industry
achievers honoured The Annual Professional Beauty Industry Awards were created to acknowledge and reward the industry’s top suppliers.
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his year’s Industry Awards were announced during the Professional Beauty Awards Gala Dinner event, held on 2 September at The Venue in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg. All nominees and winners were voted on by the industry itself and there were no judges involved in the competition.
BEST NAIL CARE PRODUCT SUPPLIER • Sparkle Cosmetics (Winner) • Bio Sculpture Gel • Young Nails BEST BODY, WAX & BEAUTY CARE SUPPLIER • Smart Buy/Depilève (Winner) • NakedCherry Apothecary Waxing Skincare • Spalicious BEST SKIN CARE SUPPLIER • RégimA (Winner) • Six Sensational Skincare • TheraVine BEST TRAINING SUPPLIER • Young Nails (Winner) • Environ • Lilian Terry BEST MARKETING • Bio Sculpture Gel (Winner) • DermaFix • Spalicious BEST SALES REPRESENTATIVE • Shivani Ramgolam – ESP Salon & Spa Software (Winner) • Lauren Jenkins – Six Sensational Skincare • Marelize Kuhn – TheraVine
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BEST NAIL CARE PRODUCT SUPPLIER – Sparkle (Debbie Kayle) You have won this award multiple times in the past – what is the secret to your ongoing success? Striving to do our best always. Exceptional client service. Going the extra mile to keep our customers happy.
How would you describe your relationship with clients? Sparkling! We strive for long term relationships. Building trust and confidence has always been our goal.
How important is your team in terms of meeting the needs of your clients? Our relationship with our clients is our most important consideration. The Sparkle team is geared towards faster response times and getting the job done right.
BEST SKINCARE SUPPLIER – Régima (Jacqui Faucitt) RégimA has won this award three times – in 2015, 2017 and 2018 – how does it feel to have triumphed again? Being extremely competitive, this is the ultimate for me personally. And for the RégimA team to repeatedly achieve such a fantastic accolade makes the hard work so worthwhile and gives us impetus to maintain our high standards in order to ‘Go For Gold’ next year. To win three times feels phenomenal. There is the initial adrenalin rush when your company name is announced at the Awards Gala Dinner, and, walking up the steps to receive the award, the heart pounds and it feels like you have just reached the top of Mount Everest, seriously awesome! Winning strengthens the position of the brand in the market, which is important for all the RégimA stockists who are proud to be part of a strong, successful company.
Why do you think Régima attracted the most awards in this category? Service is an extremely important part of successful business, particularly when there is so much competition, with more and more from on-line stores. It is not only the speed and efficiency of the service supplied, but the exclusivity of the product range. RégimA has the best interest of the future of the
salons and spas at heart, creating strictly in-salon/spa treatments to entice clients and keep them coming back in for their specialist care. We realise that clients really need their therapists to guide them through any skin problem issues, something they cannot get in chain stores. Clients, unless enticed by something special and unique, will bypass the salons. Why are stockists and consumers therefore drawn to RégimA as their prime product range? It is not just home care, RégimA provides the ‘bread and butter’ treatments for salons and spas, and the desired therapy the consumers demand.
Do you regard your relationship with clients as a partnership? Definitely! A bond is formed between distributor and client from day one. Working together with the best interest of each other and the growth of the joint businesses at heart, cements the partnership. RégimA loves the human touch, and becomes hands on, getting to know their clients on a personal and professional level, sharing experiences, knowledge, positivity about the future in the industry, helping grow new salons and spas from tiny acorns to great oaks.
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BEST BODY, WAX & BEAUTY CARE SUPPLIER – Smart Buy Depilève (Tersia Coetzee) How many times have you won this award? Seven times.
What would you say sets you apart from other suppliers in the beauty sector? I would say that it’s definitely the quality of our Depilève brand and our service to our clients.
How has your company managed to thrive in a tough economic environment? By doing what we do best – good service to all our loyal clients and staying positive.
How do you keep your team motivated to give of their best? Our Smart Buy team is the cream of the crop and we are all very passionate about our brand. We are one big happy family here at Smart Buy Depilève.
BEST SALES REPRESENTATIVE – Shivani Ramgolan How do you attract new business? To attract new business, one would need to know what’s going on within the industry. Networking, social media and events such as the Professional Beauty Expos open opportunities for the industry to attract new business. It takes only a second to click the ‘Like’ or ‘Share’ button on a business/ client’s post. Working together rather than against each other will open up the path of new business to your company.
How does it feel to have won been voted the sales representative of the year? I feel overwhelmed but extremely proud and grateful for the recognition.
How do you strengthen your relationships with clients? I believe that understanding a client’s needs is the best way to strengthen relationships. Sales is not always just about selling product, it is about the journey you take with each client.
online @ probeauty.co.za
Why are you passionate about your profession? How can I not be passionate about it! I have been blessed with an amazing team, product and clients. I learn something new every day from the industry and spend my days among inspirational leaders in our Industry. One of my favorite quotes is by leadership expert, Robin B Sharma, who said: “Leadership is not about a title or a designation. It’s about impact, influence and inspiration. Impact involves getting results, influence is about spreading the passion you have for your work, and you have to inspire team-mates and customers.”
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BEST TRAINING SUPPLIER – Young Nails (Yolande Bekker) What does it mean to you to have won this award two years in a row? It is such an honor and I am ecstatic with the acknowledgment. This proves that we must be doing something right. For all our Mentors, it is such a privilege to guide and empower future nail technicians.
Why do you think Young Nails stands out in the market in terms of training? We never compromise on our standards. It’s important for us that everyone leaving our training facility is current and on trend with international standards, which results in our company never stagnating. Having a post graduate diploma in tertiary education also helps me to guide our Mentors on how to offer classes and not just show our techniques.
How do you go about identifying the best trainers/educators for your team? As an international company, we take great pride in our company culture and anyone applying for a mentor position needs to fit in with our culture. If they share the passion for improving the industry and mentoring
aspiring techs, we continue to give them proper Mentor training.
How accessible to clients are your educators? All our mentors are extremely accessible. Everyone is active on social media, which is the main form of communication in today’s age. I personally am also very hands on with communication on social media. All of us live by the motto to help and assist and will assist our techs anytime, even after hours.
BEST MARKETING MATERIAL & CAMPAIGNS – Bio Sculpture Gel (Elmien Scholtz) What sets your company apart in terms of marketing? I think the fact that we use the best photographer (Pauline van der Merwe) and design team plays a large role, added to which the changing themes that we exhibit with every season to stay in line with new trends and fashion, set us apart. Model shoots are done with great care to tell the complete story of each colour, not only in nails but in the broader spectrum of the current fashion.
What inspires your marketing campaigns? The excitement of introducing a new season’s colour collection, together with empowering and encouraging nail technicians to become more professional, inspires us. Twice annually our Europe-based fashion experts present information from the international catwalks about new trends, and Bio Sculpture and Evo use this to build colour and special effect collections.
Please describe a recent marketing campaign that you think worked really well in this competitive market. The latest Bio Sculpture colour range was the ‘More Than A Feeling’ Collection, where reality and emotions
meet in print material, as well as on video material on our Bio Sculpture Gel South Africa Facebook page and our Biosculpture.com website. Birds fly in-and-through the elegant model’s hat while she strolls on a serene beach, with water splashing in the background. The colour names are Serenity, Passion, Flirty, Elegance and Love. All five of these feelings are powerful in the image and very descriptive of the colour they represent. In a rushed world where women are in business while running a household and children, this image keeps in touch with emotion. Women love to know that they are allowed to be women, while being in a competitive world.
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Hair no more Intent on trying laser hair removal for the first time on her underarms and legs, Taskeen Khan opts for a treatment with Alma Lasers’ awardwinning Soprano ICE Platinum permanent hair reduction device.
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y treatment was performed at The Waxpot in Greenside, Johannesburg, a salon owned by Suraiya Bhayat, who has been doing laser hair removal treatments for the past five years. “Having previously worked with Alma Lasers’ entry level platform device – the Harmony (supplied by Best Lasers) – I decided to upgrade to their standalone hair removal device, Soprano ICE Platinum, six months ago. With its trio clustered diode technology, it is suitable for all skin types, as well as coarse or fine hair. You can use it on any part of the body, including bikini line, ears and nostrils and it is virtually pain free – you just feel short bursts of heat from the shots. The hand piece cools very quickly and allows for a faster treatment,” said Bhayat. As she prepped my armpits by assigning the appropriate laser measurement grid and marking
out the treatment area with a white pencil, Bhayat explained that the Soprano ICE Platinum’s 3-in-1 applicator combines three simultaneous laser wavelengths: Alex 755NM; 810NM; and Nd:YAG 1064NM. Bhayat continued: “The Alexandrite 755NM wavelength offers more powerful energy absorption by the melanin chromophore, making it suitable for the widest range of hair types and colour, especially light-colored and thin hair. It targets the bulge of the hair follicle and is ideal for the eyebrows and upper lip. “The 810NM offers deep penetration of the hair follicle with high average power, a high repetition rate and a large 2cm spot size for fast treatment. With a moderate melanin absorption level, it is safe for darker skin types, targets the bulge and bulb of the hair follicle, and is ideal for the arms, legs, cheeks and beard.”
With its lower melanin absorption, the Nd:YAG 1064 wavelength is suited to darker skin types. It offers the deepest penetration of the hair follicle, thus targeting the bulb and papilla, and can treat deeply embedded hair in areas such as the scalp, armpits and pubic areas. Ultra sound gel was smoothed over the treatment area before Bhayat applied the applicator in quick movements. “A high repetition rate of short pulses are delivered deep into the dermis, achieving high average power and therapeutically effective heat build-up,” she continued. “Alma Lasers’ sweeping In-motion Technique™ of moving the applicator repeatedly over the treatment area ensures full coverage, while the ICE technology™ cools the skin surface, thus preventing superficial burns.”
My armpits were completed in a matter of minutes. Bhayat repeated the same process on my legs and I was delighted with the results, even after a single treatment. “Although every client is different, Alma Lasers typically recommends between six and 10 treatments for optimum results,” concluded Bhayat. PB
Contact Best Lasers: 012 998 9844
online @ probeauty.co.za
Treatment Review – Laser Hair Removal
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Product Focus – Scrubs & Exfoliators
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Banish the
build-up As prolific users of scrubs and exfoliants, salons and spas should take note of the global movement to protect the oceans and waterways from the negative effects on the environment of the micro-beads (i.e. manufactured solid plastic particles) sometimes found in such products.
Enzymatic action
Cranberry craze
DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care steers clear of using any form of micro-bead scrub, but rather opts for enzymatic exfoliation forms as seen in the DermaFix DermaPolish and DermaFix DermaPolish + Activated Charcoal. These gentler exfoliation options work to soften the skin whilst effectively removing redundant skin cell build-up.
From SIX Sensational Skincare, the Cranberry Exfoliating Cream is a facial exfoliator that contains a biodegradable particle, a natural exfoliating ingredient extracted from wood pulp. It provides a luxurious exfoliation that smooths away dead skin cells, prevents blocked pores and reveals a layer of fresh skin in an environmentally friendly way.
086 128 2323
011 312 7840
Jolly Jojoba
Perfect polish
Sknlogic exfoliate is formulated with apricot kernels and Jojoba wax beads instead of harmful micro-beads. The Jojoba beads are 100% natural, biodegradable, contain no microplastics and therefore present no threat to the environment.
Cashmere Exfoliating Polish from Cashmere & Co uses only use tested product formulas created in South Africa by cosmetic scientists. The sucrose in the product exfoliates and removes excess dryness, resulting in smooth and clean skin. This exfoliator is infused with Cashmere & Co’s own signature blend of essential oils to give it a fresh natural fragrance.
779 435 2292
021 863 0373
online @ probeauty.co.za
Product Focus – Scrubs & Exfoliators
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Outstanding orange From Spalicious, the Orange Butter Cellulite Scrub contains grapefruit seed extract and orange peel wax with sugar and salt as an exfoliant – a powerful combination to improve blood circulation and soften the fat cells. This product also forms part of the Spalicious Cellulite Fix Kit.
011 312 7840
First and foremost But First products are cruelty free and contain natural and organic ingredients. The body scrubs in the range contain no plastics or micro-beads but rather use 100% Arabica coffee and sea salt as the exfoliant. Packaging is custom designed and made from aluminium, making it suitable for recycling.
064 870 9880
Prickly pear The Juliette Armand Exfoliating Enzyme Gel is a gentle but effective skin exfoliator boosted with prickly pear extract, which increases the skin’s natural exfoliating process by increasing the enzyme activity found only in skin and hair follicles and acts to accelerate the dissolution of the bonds that hold skin cells together. Prickly pear extract is loaded with Vitamin E.
011 033 0500
Deep, deep cleanser Sothys Desquacrem is boosted with gypsophila root to enzymatically emulsify oily impurities, comedones and milia. It is a non-alkaline, pH balanced formulation that deeply cleanses the skin without the skin feeling stripped or tight.
021 701 2900 online @ probeauty.co.za
Superfood Skincare
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Food for thought
Simple logic dictates that what’s good for the gut must be good for the skin. Over the past year skincare has become increasingly healthy as superfoods continue to top the list of trending ingredients, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
I
t’s clear that a lot of today’s professional skincare has gone the ‘super’ route, whether it be formulated with superfoods, superfruit or supergrains – all nutritionally rich ingredients loaded with anti-oxidants, which have been shown to help reduce inflammation and free radical damage over time. Some superfoods also supply essential fatty acids and properties that enrich and strengthen the skin’s surface. The old adage – ‘You are what you eat’ – now clearly applies to skincare. Among currently trending superfood ingredients are turmeric, kale, quinoa, avocado oil, chia seeds, goji berry, spinach, broccoli, cacao, moringa and spirulina, to name a few. The popularity of such ingredients might be fuelled by the current move to natural and organic products, but that is a whole other topic.
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Red raspberry DermaFix Brightening Toner includes extracts of red raspberry, pomegranate, cucumber and cranberry, providing anti-oxidant protection against the harmful effects of free radicals that leads to environmental damage and ageing. Say Ursula Hunt of DermaFix: “Raspberry extract boosts collagen production, refines the skin and reduces skin inflammation, while pomegranate extract provides a rich source of ellagic acid, a phytochemical that has an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity and UVinduced pigmentation. The DermaFix Vitamin Therapy Masque, formulated with the inclusion of avocado oil, provides powerful anti-oxidant protection, hydration and repair for universal use. Avocado oil is high in sterolins, which are reputed to improve the appearance of age spots, sun damage and scarring, whilst providing superior moisturisation for all skin types.
‘Foodie’ range Luxury British spa range, Elemis, has an entire skincare line formulated with plant-based, nutrient-dense superfoods. This range, aptly named Superfood, includes the Facial Wash, Day Cream, Night Cream amd the bestselling, award-winning Superfood Facial Oil. Essential to these powerpacked formulas are supergreen and supergrain complexes, rich in anti-oxidants, omega
fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to feed the skin with nourishment. The various ingredients in these products include matcha tea, daikon radish, green mandarin, cucumber seed, barley, flaxseed and bran, among many others.
Wild ginger Native to southern tropical Africa, wild ginger contains a unique antioxidant called gingerol. This promotes a brighter and firmer appearance due to its ability to fight free-radicals. Ginger forms an essential element in the CSpa Rebalancing skincare range. CSpa Rebalancing Serum embodies a green, fresh aroma and is infused with ginger, lemon, and sandalwood for healing, mattifying effects.
Comforting cocoa
The Cocoa Exfoliator from certified organic brand, Esse, uses cocoa at high levels for its gentle exfoliating action, combined with its ability to soften and lubricate the skin. While fine cocoa particles polish and refine the skin’s surface, marula and manketti oil nourish and protect to ensure skin is not left feeling stripped or dry.
Logical solution Sknlogic includes a multitude of
superfoods in its skincare, such as pomegranates, kiwi, grapefruit, bananas, cucumber and apples. The Sknlogic Multi Active Lotion contains pineapple extract to promote cell renewal, increase collagen production and accelerate exfoliation and unblock pores. This active treatment optimises skin rejuvenation, treating hyper-pigmentation and dehydration.
Olive paste
Juliette Armand Remineralizing Body Buff Therapy commences with the luxurious Exfo-1 Olive Paste as a full body exfoliation medium, which is the perfect blend of olive oil and sea salts of different crystal sizes rich in trace elements. The treatment is then completed by applying the Juliette Armand Active-2 Post Paste which gently dissolves the salt crystals using a super absorbent ingredient called polytrap, leaving the therapist with an amazing massage medium to perform a full body Swedish massage.
From the vine Lisa Smit’s discovery that oligomeric proanthocyanidins (the anti-oxidants found in grape derivatives) are 50 times the strength of Vitamin E and 20 times the strength of Vitamin C with regards to their levels of anti-oxidants, was the inspiration behind her TheraVine range. The brand’s formulations consist of many different multigenerational variations and cultivars of grape technologies, from different parts of the grape and vine to benefit the skin in >
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Superfood Skincare
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Superfood Skincare
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various ways – from signs of the first wrinkles to the reversal of the deepest. TheraVine is also one of only two skincare brands in the world that make use of these multi-generational, stabilised grape actives. These are stabilised in a unique way in the TheraVine formulations. Additional benefits of using grapes in the products include restricting the generation of all types of free radical; acting as detoxifiers for skin exposed to pollution, cigarette smoke, long exposure to the sun, all kinds of stress etc; inhibiting fatty acid oxidation and helping to keep cell membranes in good condition; protecting the genetic material thereby cutting down mutation rates; and stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin, thereby keeping it firm and elastic.
Fruity formulation Dermalogica’s night gel-cream, Sound sleep cocoon, contains Wu-Zu-Yu fruit extract to promote a more refined, even skin texture. It also aids in illuminating dull skin, visibly increasing skin’s radiance by morning. Kakadu plum (terminalia ferdinandiana) extract: is a potent form of Vitamin C and a powerful weapon against free
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radical-induced skin damage and premature ageing. It delivers comprehensive antioxidant protection while improving luminosity and skin tone. Sound sleep cocoon is also formulated with tamarind seed extract (tamarindus indicia) to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and helps protect skin’s barrier function, promoting the skin’s natural hydration process while increasing smoothness and softness Barrier Defense Booster from Dermnalogica contains turmeric (tetrahydrocurcuminoids) to stop skin-damaging enzymes in their tracks and combat free radical damage.
Powerful pomegranate The RégimA Laser Azu Repair is formulated with pomegranate, known as ‘the most medicinal fruit’.
Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “Pomegranate seed oil is a superfood for RégimA, providing therapeutic nutrition as topically it repairs and helps rebuild collagen. It simultaneously slows the development of an enzyme that actively destroys collagen. That means firmer, more elastic skin with fewer lines and wrinkles. “The fruit’s conjugated fatty acids give it strong antiinflammatory properties, plus anti-oxidant, anti-microbial, antifungal and anti-viral properties. It also has natural oestrogenic properties, with the ability to regulate hormones within the skin, improving elasticity, so a bonus particularly for ageing skins. It provides relief from minor skin irritations and inflammation, including dry skin, eczema, psoriasis and sunburn.
Its tannins help water-proof the outermost layers of skin, protecting the underlying layers and limiting the loss of fluids, soothing irritation and reducing breakouts.” Faucitt notes that studies have shown that pomegranate seed oil stimulates keratinocyte proliferation, promoting regeneration and strengthening of the epidermis. It not only deeply moisturises but revitalises dull, dry, damaged or mature skin, working wonders for antiageing and repair. RégimA Laser Azu Repair is multifunctional and can be used post treatment or as
part of a First Aid Kit. It can be used after laser therapy, skin peels, microneedling; medical dermabrasion, microdermabrasion, IPL treatments, permanent makeup treatments, and on any injuries where there may be scabbing, crusting or burns. It has also found to be useful on certain people suffering from eczema or psoriasis.
Clerilys W The SIX Sensational Skincare Brightening & Even Tone Booster Elixir Serum is suitable for skin types with an uneven skin tone and pigmentation. This is a sophisticated and easily absorbed skincare serum with innovative and powerful active ingredients to give dramatic results to the skin It is formulated with Clerilys W
(comprising cucumber, white mulberry and hibiscus) to inhibit melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity. Acids of hibiscus flower play an exfoliating role, increasing cell turnover and consequently the brightness of skin is improved and the dark spots are removed. Clerilys W also limits the membrane transfer of melanin into melanosomes and thus limits the storage of pigment. Suitable for dry and dehydrated skin, the SIX Sensational Skincare Anti Ageing Moisturiser stimulates cell metabolism, antifree radical action and reduces the effects of premature ageing. This moisturiser contains punica granatum (pomegranate) that has astringent, antiinflammatory and antioxidant properties. PB
This age defying eye cream is created with Hexatein® 6 Complex, a unique blend of ingredients exclusive to RapidEye™ that hydrate, nourish and invigorate the delicate skin around the eyes. The appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, under eye puffiness and signs of premature aging will be visibly reduced.
HEXATEIN® 6 COMPLEX A unique blend of highly effective ingredients, specifically designed to improve the appearance of the eye area. 1. Peptides help strengthen skin’s natural cushion, reduce appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and under-eye puffiness. 2. Sodium Hyaluronate helps bind in long-lasting moisture that helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and enhance the youthful look of the eye area. 3. Retinol helps improve the rejuvenation process of the skin, resulting in smoother, more youthful-looking appearance. 4. Caffeine helps energize, revitalize and refresh the eye area, resulting in relaxed, wide-awake appearance. 5. Shea Butter, rich in vitamins A, D and E, essential fatty acids and phytosterols, helps nourish and moisturise skin, resulting in soft, and smooth looking skin. 6. Rosemary Leaf Extract, rich in flavonoids and phenols, provides antioxidant benefits and helps support skin’s defence mechanism against free radical damage.
79%
EXPERIENCED VISIBLE REDUCTION OF FINE LINES*
Feel and see the age reversing power of RapidEyeTM. Available only from leading Salon Professionals nationwide. RRSP R599
Superfood Skincare
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Body Contouring
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Streamlining THE FRAME
Although not necessarily seasonal, the demand for non-invasive, device based body contouring treatments does increase over the summer months as clients aim to achieve ‘beach-ready’ bodies. Joanna Sterkowicz looks at the latest lasers and energy based devices available for this application. online @ probeauty.co.za
A
ccording to market research from Technavio, the growing shift towards non-invasive procedures has augmented the market for body contouring across the globe. The research states: “Customers are opting for minimally invasive and non-invasive procedures to achieve a natural and healthy appearance within a short time. “Owing to the growing requirement for body contouring devices among healthcare facilities, several vendors are making massive investments in the research activities to improve the benefits
associated with body contouring procedures.” (Source: ‘Global Body Contouring Market 20162020’) The ASDA Consumer Survey on Cosmetic Dermatologic Procedures 2016 found that 50% of respondents were considering a body sculpting treatment. The top three reasons given by respondents were a desire to look more attractive, feel more confident, and to look as young as they feel.
Subscription model
Says Thyrza Price of Venus Concept Africa: “Venus Concept anti-ageing and body contouring devices certainly help to dispel the winter blues when it comes to returning a healthy glow to dry winter skin, reducing unwelcome bulges and tightening skin that is not as plump as it used to be. Often, seeing a quicker-thanexpected result helps to motivate persons to start a healthy lifestyle, which we strongly promote. “I believe that Venus Concept’s option of a subscription model for businesses, supported by unmatched warranty and technical support, positions us as the most profitable solution for aesthetic service providers.”
She notes that the key to Venus Concept’s (MP)2 technology is Multi-Polar Radiofrequency working synergistically with Magnetic Pulse technology. “The combined results are superior with controlled and homogenous heat distribution for increased patient comfort, denaturation and reconstruction of existing collagen, the stimulation of FGF-2 for neocollagenesis, and the formation of new blood vessels for increased nutrient and oxygen flow.” The (MP)2 technology featured in the brand’s body contouring applicators are available on the Venus Freeze Plus and the Venus Legacy. Both are CE approved for body contouring and cellulite reduction, skin tightening and wrinkle reduction, making these devices versatile for face, neck and body. “Device choice is ultimately determined by your market, your facilities and whether you specialise in body contouring,” continues Price. “If you do specialise in body contouring, the flagship Venus Legacy features the in-demand 4D Varipulse applicators which are highly popular for advanced circumferential reduction and cellulite reduction. If you are also offering controlled weight loss programmes, then this device is the perfect aid to kick start lipolysis and lymphatic drainage. As your clients lose weight, it is important to simultaneously work
on tightening skin, in order to avoid loose skin from forming.” A top seller, the Venus Freeze Plus comes in at a slightly lower price, to rather populate more than one room in a clinic or salon with the same technology and enable high customer turnover.
Stable of devices Several machines from BTL Technologies work on getting rid of excess bulges and all are quick, safe, non-invasive with no pain or downtime. These machines offer successful lipolysis (breakdown of fat), controlled cell death and cellulite reduction, without the need for invasive surgical cutting and suction procedures. Each machine has undergone thorough testing, supported by clinical trials and scientific papers. FDA cleared for non-surgical circumferential reduction of the abdominal area, the BTL Vanquish ME system is a ‘no contact’ procedure that targets fat reduction of the midriff and love handles (or thigh area) without the need for surgery. Vanquish is able to treat broad areas of the midsection during one single treatment and offers the largest spot size in the industry. The device uses thermal energy to induce and maintain even heating of the fat tissue. Once the fat cells reach and maintain therapeutic temperature, they become ‘apoptotic’ which results in fat cell death. The damaged >
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Body Contouring
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Body Contouring
44 cells are then slowly and naturally cleared out of the body by one’s immune system. The BTL Exilis Elite combines radiofrequency and ultrasound to safely and uniformly heat the deeper layers of the skin for increased collagen synthesis, skin tightness, elasticity, tissue volume, and tone. Studies have shown that the uniform delivery of heat deep into the targeted layers of fat achieves effective lipolysis (breakdown of fat) and controlled cell death, providing a marked improvement in skin laxity and a 30-40% reduction of fat. BTL’s X-Wave uses medical acoustic waves to significantly increase blood circulation and collagen production, improving skin texture and elasticity, offering dermal firming and reducing the skin’s dimpled appearance. This device successfully treats cellulite directly (not only its visible symptoms) and can also be used to improve uneven liposuction results.
Shaping up Distributed by Radiant Healthcare, the VelaShape III is powered by Syneron’s elos technology and indicated for cellulite reduction, body contouring, ‘body after baby’, and pre and post liposuction Heating the tissue up to a depth of between 3mm and 15mm, VelaShape III combines Infrared, bi-polar radiofrequency, pulsed vacuum and mechanical rollers. This combination of technologies causes deep heating of the fat cells (adipocytes), their surrounding connective fibrous septae and the underlying dermal collagen fibres. The optimal design of the electrodes and the concurrent application of vacuum allows for deeper and faster heat penetration. In turn, this promotes an increase in circulation, lymphatic drainage, cellular metabolism and collagen
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body areas that can be treated with Cooltech and its special applicators is another advantage of this device, since full body contouring can be done in just a few sessions.
Prime treatment
depositing. It also stimulates fibroblast activity and remodels the extracellular matrix. Unique to the Velashape III (and the industry) is the ‘Vela-Once’ treatment. This is a totally new treatment for body contouring and circumference reduction and requires only one ‘long’ single treatment with very effective results.
Cool technology A new concept in cryoadipolysis treatments, Cooltech (available from Radiant Healthcare) enables the operator to use two hand pieces at the same time, which provide visible results from the first session, reduced treatment time, as well as great profitability for the clinic. With the two applicators in operation simultaneously, the operator you will be able to reduce two areas, obtaining a more visible effect. The multiple
Accent Prime from Alma Lasers (distributed by Best Lasers) combines ultrasound and radiofrequency technologies to deliver effective, highly customised treatments with natural, long lasting results. The ultrasound energy is distributed homogenously throughout the treatment area, effectively disrupting stubborn fat cells. Radiofrequency power is then used to produce thermal deep heating to the tissue, resulting in more concentrated energy treatment. This combination reduces treatment time and number of sessions while yielding more powerful results. Patented Alma Unipolar technology allows for focused, safe and deep heating of tissue at various depths within the skin. Focused Depth Control technology allows full customisation and flexibility due to the variable depth control. Accent Prime features patented technology to selectively target fat cells, while leaving surrounding tissue unharmed. The shear wave vibrations disrupt fat cell membranes, leading to gradual breakdown and release of stored fat. Damaged fat cells are then disposed of the body through the lymphatic system. Alma Lasers has now introduced a ‘hands-free’ body contouring solution. The Accentuate kit, designed for body contouring and skin tightening, is comprised of two hands-free applicators and a complementary
treatment mattress. The kit is available exclusively on Alma’s Accent Prime platform, offering flexibility, multi-tasking and tailored treatments. Practitioners can position the applicators on the patient, define the treatment parameters and move on to additional practice engagements. Accentuate can be used on different treatment areas (abdomen, buttocks, thighs, etc.), with separate treatment protocols defined per each applicator.
APIC technology Lumenis NuEra Tight (distributed by Hitech Lasers) is a high powered, temperaturecontrolled radiofrequency system for treatment of skin laxity and cellulite. This nodowntime treatment promises an exceptional level of safety thanks to the APIC (Automatic Power and Impedance Control) temperature-control technology. The APIC automatically and gradually increases the radiofrequency power to the target temperature, delivering precise heating to the skin’s surface with predictable results. This system has been FDAcleared for radiofrequency heating, both superficial and deep, to treat a variety of conditions such as temporary reduction in the appearance of cellulite. NuEra Tight’s powerful radiofrequency technology emits at 470kHz and high 250W power to deliver the required amount of heat – precisely and deeply – for an optimally effective, comfortable treatment with consistently successful results. By using the precise frequency and depth of
Body Contouring
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heat, you can treat a variety of conditions with different levels of severity and on different areas of the body and face. NuEra tight optimises treatment efficacy on the abdomen, flanks, buttocks, inner and outer thighs, upper arms, bra and back fat, as well as around the eyes, mouth, cheeks and neck. It uniquely works with one resistive bi-polar hand piece and two unipolar hand pieces with Coated Capacitive Energy Transfer (CCET).
Slim solution Also from Lumenis, SlimMe is a system for the noninvasive elimination of body fat and cosmetic and aesthetic contouring and body shaping. SlimMe is based on tissue heating achieved by the synergy of uniform ultrasound and multipolar radiofrequency and lymphatic drainage massage all in one applicator. Four technologies of fat elimination are combined in one device. Both the uniform ultrasound and multipolar radiofrequency efficiently and quickly heat up fat cells to a degree where they are eliminated. The Protective Cooling technology works the same way but makes use of cold temperature. Lastly, the Pulsating Vacuum assists in the burning of fat, making the treatment more rapid.
Natural alternative In contrast to a lot of the techniques available on the market, LPG endermologie
(available from Marine Spa Distributors) offers a 100% natural alternative which is nonaggressive and non-invasive. It stimulates dormant cellular activity within the skin to fight all un-aesthetic manifestations (wrinkles, sagging skin, localised resistant fat, cellulite and more). After more than 30 years of expertise and scientific research, LPG has created a new patent to control all these natural mechanisms in a single treatment. Acting simultaneously on the release of stubborn localised fat and on skin quality, the new patent (roller and motorised flap combined with sequential suction) of the LPG endermologie allows the body technology to act directly on the adipocytes present in the hypodermis (slimming cells) and on the fibroblasts (rejuvenating cells). This 360° treatment puts an end to the dilemma – slimming or firming? Intelligently stimulated, the skin is capable of undergoing amazing transformations: boosting the production of rejuvenating substances (collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid) for firmer skin, activating fat cells’ elimination process to reshape your figure, and stimulating fluid exchanges for a deep detox effect. PB
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Medical Aesthetics
47
The relationship between the
gut microbiome and healthy skin Clinical pharmacist and functional medicine practitioner, David Arthur, unpacks the mysteries of the microbial world.
T
his article was inspired by Alanna Collen’s book: ‘10% Human (How your Body’s Microbes Hold the Key to Health and Happiness)’. In years gone the gut has received the majority of the attention when we talk about the microbiome. The digestive system is home to trillions of organisms that can affect the body, but it’s not the only place these bacteria exist. But what exactly is the microbiome? It refers to a mix of bacteria, yeasts and parasites that live on your skin, in your nose, your trachea and in your gut, from your mouth all the way to your anus. The mix of those bacteria, yeasts and parasites is closely linked to your weight, mental health, acquiring auto-immune conditions, blood pressure, diabetes, heart
Effective functioning
Our bodies are like ecosystems that house the microbial world. Each of us have approximately 10 trillion human cells, 100 trillion bacteria and yeasts, and 1,000 trillion viruses in and on our bodies. disease and even cancer. This list can go on and on. Our bodies are like ecosystems that house the microbial world. Each of us have approximately 10 trillion human cells, 100 trillion bacteria and yeasts, and 1,000 trillion viruses in and on our bodies.
Scientists now consider the microbiome an important organ on its own that helps us maintain the necessary metabolism to keep the chemistry of life running as effectively as possible. If properly attended to and looked after, our microbiome can keep us lean, joyful and pain free. But when our metabolism malfunctions, too many free radicals are made, inflammation increases and our chemistry falters, leading to ill health, bad skin and risks >
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48 Medical Aesthetics
In fact, most skin problems (from acne to eczema) likely to affect the skin microbiome may be as a result of changes to this ecosystem microbiota balance within our guts, due to the modern lifestyle.
Insults to the skin microbiota Our modern lifestyle changes our gut microbiome through antibiotic overuse, consumption of foods that disrupt gut flora, and overuse of antibacterial products. These same factors can alter the bacterial balance on the skin and may be even more damaging. The skin is under constant assault from environmental agents, harsh cleansers and soaps, deodorants and even medications and cosmetics. Our obsession with cleanliness may be doing more harm than good for the microbiota balance on the skin. Like the gut, the skin is home to over a trillion organisms at any given time, including thousands of species of bacteria as well as viruses and fungi. These all serve a purpose and are important for a proper balance.
When does the skin microbiome start?
of cardiovascular disease and hormonal imbalances. Research now shows that there is a relationship between our gut microbiome and the microbiome on the skin.
What is the skin microbiome? As mentioned above, a microbiome is simply the collection of microorganisms in a particular place. The gut microbiome is the entire collection of microorganisms in the gut, and similarly, the skin microbiome is simply all of the organisms present on the skin.
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The term ‘microbiota’ is also used to describe these organisms and specifically means: ‘the ecological community of commensal, symbiotic and pathogenic microorganisms that literally share our body space’. Because research is proving the importance of the gut microbiome, many of us now understand how important it is to consume probiotic rich foods and why the overuse of antibacterial soaps is a bad idea for gut health. It turns out that these same factors also affect the microbiota on our skin and protecting it may be just as important.
A healthy skin microbiome appears to begin during and shortly after birth with a flurry of immune activity. However, recent studies have shown that many of the modern practices surrounding birth may have a dramatic and unfortunate impact on gut bacteria. Important research recently published at the University of California San Francisco found that an important part of the skin microbiome is established within days of birth, when there is a large amount of immune cell activity that creates tolerance to the bacteria on the skin. This is a critical factor in the immune system – knowing not to attack the normal and healthy bacteria on the skin. Unfortunately, the wide use of antibiotics for mom during labour
(and for mom and baby after birth) may have some big unintended consequences. The study reads: “One major clinical implication of this study is that giving antibiotics to a child in early neonatal life will limit the amount and type of bacteria that is seen by the adaptive immune system and this could be linked to the development of autoimmune, inflammatory skin diseases later in life.” Logically, this could be part of the reason we are seeing a rise in skin related disorders and why the research indicates that if this window is missed, it is difficult or impossible to recreate as an adult. (This is also a good reason to hold off on a first bath for the first few days of a baby’s life!)
How the gut and skin microbiome interact No part of the body’s microbiome exists in a vacuum. The skin is home to trillions of immune fighter cells that interact with the rest of the immune system via lymph nodes. Just like the bacterial organisms in the gut, they comprise a valuable part of the immune system. This also gives reason to rethink the overuse of antibacterial and antimicrobial soaps on the skin and question whether we are too clean. New evidence suggests that our obsession with being ‘clean’ may come at a big price for our microbiome. Dr Kara Fitzgerald explains: “A robust skin microbiome protects against infection or dysbiosis in much the same way a good gut microbiome does, by colonisation resistance (i.e. crowding out overgrowth of pathogenic organisms) and by maintaining a relatively acidic environment (pH around 5.0), which inhibits growth of pathogens. Staphylococcus epidermidis, a major commensal bacterium, produces phenolsoluble modulins that inhibit pathogens such as S. aureus, and Group A Streptococcus. Commensals can also inhibit
strains of bacteria. Unless they are SBOs (also known as sporeforming bacteria) they may not survive the harsh environment in the stomach and upper digestive system to get to the small intestine.
Use a skin probiotic
inflammation through crosstalk via Toll-like receptors 2 and 3, and stimulate production of antimicrobial peptides such as cathelicidin, which can kill bacteria, fungi and viruses.” The microbiome aids in wound healing, limits exposure to allergens and UV radiation, minimises oxidative damage and helps to keep the skin barrier intact and well-hydrated. Rather than thinking of the skin as a complex microbiome to be nurtured and protected, we often think of it as a static surface that needs to be clean. Over the long term, this may have a negative effect on skin health and even the immune system.
Don’t be afraid to get dirty It may sound crazy, but in today’s world, we just don’t get enough dirt or soil based organisms. For most of human history, we worked outside or interacted with the outdoor world in some way each day. Our food came from the ground and while it may have been rinsed, it wasn’t ‘washed’ and it certainly wasn’t irradiated like many foods are today. Through these interactions with the soil, we came into contact with soil based organisms (SBOs) that are natural strains of probiotics found in the gut and on the skin. It seems ridiculous that now we are deficient in dirt, we don’t come in contact with these beneficial organisms enough. Heck, we don’t come in contact with anything dirty regularly. Most probiotic supplements don’t have the same
Many of us take probiotics but few of us have ever thought of using a skin probiotic. There are skin probiotic masks and skin creams that make the skin softer and not as oily. I advocate avoiding antibacterial soaps and choosing biome friendly soap. Triclosan, one of the mostused antibacterial ingredients in soaps, was recently banned, but others are still used. Use natural soaps instead. There are also soaps and shampoos that are designed to not interfere with the skin biome. These contain ammonia-oxidizing bacteria (AOB) that research suggests may help restore healthy skin bacteria.
Sweat often How interesting is this provided one has a washing peg on one’s nose – there is evidence that sweat may contribute to healthy skin bacteria by serving as a pre-biotic (food for good bacteria). So, what’s the bottom line? Our skin microbiome would love it if we could ditch harsh synthetic and antibacterial skin products and stick to natural products, simultaneously fixing up and respecting our gut microbiome by changing our diets and lifestyles accordingly. David Arthur holds the following qualifications: Clinical Pharmacist – B.Pharm (Wits), MPS, ABAAHP Diplomate, Board Certified (American Board of Anti-Aging Health Practitioners), Faculty MMI/SA, and A4M. He practices at the Integrative Medical Centre, focusing on functional and regenerative medicine. A particular area of interest is the relationship between emotional and physical health. PB
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Medical Aesthetics
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SAAHSP
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Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry in SA
Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
CIDESCO celebrates World Congress in Stockholm
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eauty and spa professionals from all corners of the world gathered in the beautiful city of Stockholm, Sweden in early September for the 66th CIDESCO World Congress, an annual event which aims to further CIDESCO’s mission to maintain world-class standards in the beauty and spa industries. Held in conjunction with Sweden’s largest beauty exhibition, Hud & Kosmetik, visitors were able to enjoy a full programme of lectures from international beauty experts along with the CIDESCO Congress programme and networking. Organised by CIDESCO Section Sweden and its President, Annica Joensuu, the theme was ‘Beauty of the Northern’.
Annual Breakfast Western Cape
CIDESCO PR Board Member, Sandy Fuhr, commenced the opening ceremony, followed by the seminar programme and a Media Make-up and Body Art Competition. The four day programme of events comprised the CIDESCO Examiners’ and Schools’ Meeting, the PR meeting for all CIDESCO Sections, and the annual General Assembly. Two new CIDESCO Sections were welcomed into the fold, from Great Britain and Qatar. At the Gala Dinner, the life of Kate Wacz was celebrated, together with the 60-year Section anniversary of Denmark and Greece. Next year’s CIDESCO World Congress will take place between 18 and 23 September in Chicago, USA, hosted by CIDESCO Section USA. CIDESCO Section Fiji has been accepted to host the 2020 congress.
SAAHSP collaborating with industry stakeholders
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he SAAHSP Cape Committee hosted its very successful Annual Breakfast at Skilpadvlei Wine Estate close to Stellenbosch on Monday, 17 September 2018. Combined with a fun theme – ‘Mad Hatters Breakfast’ – the following three guest speakers shared their knowledge with the members and guests: Lurinda Swanepoel from Derca Cosmetics spoke about penetration of active ingredients; Narike Burger from Node Consulting discussed Body Wellness; and Nadia Erasmus from Nadz Hope Nails spoke on sterilisation and hygiene within the nail industry.
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esearch shows that a growing number of companies are turning to collaborations – with suppliers, NGOs, industry alliances, governments and even competitors – to become more sustainable. SAAHSP has also realised that it can’t make the necessary impact acting alone and has therefore approached a few industry role players to join hands and work towards common goals. These include regulating and improving standards, upskilling the industry and giving everyone the opportunity to belong to a Professional Body. Agreements and discussions between SAAHSP and the following organisations/ companies are in progress: Bargaining Council, CIDESCO, CosmeticWeb, EOHBC, ITEC, PCASA, Professional Beauty, SA Spa Association, SkillzBook and UASA. According to SAAHSP President, Elna Hagen, “This is just the beginning to better regulating the industry”.
Hair News
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Crowning GLORY
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Salon International Africa gets competitive The winners of the inaugural Salon International Africa Photographic Competition were announced on 3 September at Gallagher Convention Centre, as part of the Salon International Africa Expo.
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ponsored by Wahl, the first ever Salon International Africa Photographic Competition generated an overwhelming response in terms of entries, which came in from all over South Africa. Head judge for the competition was Dennis Randall, a world skills international judge. The other judges were Jassy Mackensie (Hair News), Suzette Coetzee (artistic director, Wahl) and Victor Msomi. Due to the success of the competition, the orgainsers, T.E. Trade Events, promise a bigger and more ‘hair-raising’ edition of the Salon International Africa Photographic Competition in 2019. Here are the top three placements in each category this year: Category 1: Progressive Cut and Colour 1st – Marlie Van Der Merwe 2nd - Tania Smith 3rd – Marlie Van Der Merwe
Category 3: Catwalk Extravaganza 1st – Gift Mqwathi 2nd – Thabiso Rataba 3rd – Amocille Plaatjies
Category 5: Ultimate Styling 1st – Daniela Blignaut 2nd – Bongani Nhlapo 3rd – Shawn Bubb
Category 2: Best of Barbering 1st – Ruan Aucamp 2nd – Chad Hunter Schimper 3rd – Jessie Galant
Category 4: Male Fashion in Focus 1st – Ruan Aucamp 2nd – Jade Jack 3rd – Leilanie Van Nieuwenhuis
Category 6: Bridal 1st – Shawn Bubb 2nd – Alfie Grobler 3rd – Hennie Horn
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Product News
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market IN THE
Our round-up of new products and treatments.
Focused range
Pearly care
Environ has unveiled its most targeted approach to dealing with ageing, sensitive and dry skin with the new Focus Care™ line, which contains powerful formulations with intelligent ingredient combinations. The line comprises three ranges: Focus Care™ Youth+; Focus Care™ Moisture+; and Focus Care™ Comfort+.
Part of the Black Pearl Men Care range, Splendid Gel Serum Face & Eye harnesses the power of unique minerals to provide skin with a rich, nourishing experience. Tahitian Pearl and Vitamin E revitalise cells and prevent oxidation, boosting the skin’s youthful appearance. Wheat germ oil, squalane oil and sodium hyaluronate ensure hydration.
082 560 0262
011 262 0264
Sunny cream Heliocare Color Gelcream SPF 50 is a high photoimmunoprotection broad-spectrum gel-cream with a tint for daily use. It helps to prevent the formation of pigmentation and other signs of visible photo-ageing. The key Ingredient is Fernblock, a natural plant extract from Central America with proven photo-protective properties.
011 545 9300
Sleep tight Thalgo Sleeping Cream – Night Time Recovery completely fuses with the skin, creating an ‘infusing veil’. Re-energising Melatoskin and smoothing hyaluronic acid are then gradually released throughout the night. In the morning, the skin is plumped and fully hydrated, with features refreshed.
011 880 3850 online @ probeauty.co.za
Product News
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Lovely lotion Sothys has introduced the Hydra-nourishing Body Lotion into the South African market. This ultra-penetrating body lotion helps restore the skin’s protective film, leaving it soft and comfortable. Key ingredients include Almond Seed Extract, White Lupine Extract and a plant complex of shea butter and corn.
021 7012900
Dreamy combo Refectocil’s The Dream Team includes the Styling Gel with Vitamin E, D-panthenol and glycerine to deliver enriching care and colour protection for tinted brows and lashes. RefectoCil Care Balm promotes natural lash and brow growth whilst strengthening the hair, and RefectoCil Lash & Brow Booster is a natural alternative to fake lashes and microblading.
082 5756 567
CLASSIFIEDS
Handy device Environ’s new Focus Care Skin Tech + ElectroSonic DF Mobile Skincare Device features dual electro-sonic technology to stimulate the skin and create tiny cavitations through low frequency sonophoresis (sound waves) for product penetration. More essential nutrients are delivered by ionising active molecules and diffusing them through pulsed iontophoresis.
011 262 0264 online @ probeauty.co.za
WHAT IS IT FOR?
• Skin rejuvenation • Tattoo removal • Large pore reduction • Firmer skin • Reduced wrinkles • Blackhead removal • Pigmentation removal • Age spot removal
Official SL LasersTM Service Provider
+ FREE TRAINING WHEN YOU PURCHASE YOUR DEVICE www.sllasers.co.za | (+27) 83 271 8675 | hello@suleloggenberg.co.za
Issue 23
Oct/Nov 2018
Cautionary tale Shutterstock
Treating clients with illnesses
Festive flair
Nail designs for the holidays
Subtle art
Increasing prices in your salon
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ard to believe but this is in fact the last issue of NailFile for the year. So, albeit well in advance, it’s only appropriate for me to wish you all a wonderful holiday season and a 2019 filled with the most beautiful nails ever. Appropriately, our Issue 23 Style Savvy section is themed ‘Festive flair’ and will give Oct/Nov 201 8 you some fabulously creative ideas on how to do your clients’ nails during this fun time of the year. It’s always a tricky business having to introduce price increases in the salon, especially in a bad economy. Our three experts provide invaluable advice on how to implement a new pricing structure in a way that won’t make your clients want to seek greener pastrues. As professional nail techs, you are bound to come across clients suffering from serious illnesses or conditions at some stage, hence the absolute need for a thorough consultation prior to treatment to Cautionary tale Treating clients wit know exactly what you are dealing with. This point is emphasised in h illnesses Festive flai r Nail desig our Nail Nurture – Part 5.2 article, which also outlines the cautionary ns for the holidays measures one must take when treating clients of this nature. S h u t t e r s t o c k
Welcome
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Subtle art Increasin g prices in yo
ur salon
Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
What’s inside Nail File
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Salon Focus
Top Tech Talk
Stay in the know
Crème de la crème
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Ask the Experts
Nail Nurture – Part 5.2
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Style Savvy
Product Hub
Implementing new prices
Festive flair
online @ probeauty.co.za
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Serious illnesses and conditions
The latest launches
Khomotso Carol Mabulana
g n i k o o l We are tributors! for dis Are you a passionate nail tech? Are you already or do you want to start training nail techs? Are you looking for a strong international brand to distribute? Are you interested in distributing Magnetic Is your place of business located in: Cape Town, Johannisburg, Pretoria, Durbin, Bloemfontein or any other important city. CONTACT Pepijn Borrèl pepijn.borrel@magneticnaildesign.com Aukje Veltman a.veltman@maneticnaildesign.com Our headoffice +31346350525 Holland/The Netherlands
www.magneticnaildesign.com
News
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NEWS
Information at your fingertips Kruger and Knoetze triumph in NailFile competition
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eandre Kruger of Cape Beauty has won the Tip Box category and Tammy-Lee Knoetze the Photographic category in NailFile’s Annual Nail Design Competition. Felicia Koen of Avalon Nails & Beauty came second in the Photographic category, themed ‘Wrinkle in Time’ and sponsored by LCN, with Knoetze’s other entry third. Anelda Fouche of Luv Ur Nails was runner-up in the Tip Box category (themed ‘Fantastic Beasts’ and sponsored by Image Cartel) and Mina Lima third. Says Kruger: “I was overwhelmed with ideas after watching the ‘Fantastic Beasts’ film and decided to choose some of my favorite animals from Newt’s collection, and create them in a collector’s box. I hope that anyone who sees this suitcase will be transported to the same magical place.” Knoetze found the ‘Wrinkle in Tme’ movie particularly inspiring, especially considering her love for colours. “I had this amazing design in my head and to get it onto a nail was my biggest challenge. Bold and beautiful is what I wanted.”
Pinterest’s hottest nail trends 2018
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eb-based pinboard and social media sharing platform, Pinterest, has revealed the hottest nail trends for 2018 in its Global Beauty Report, with glitter, ombré and marble featuring strongly. After analysing 207 million boards, Pinterest has ascertained what people are searching for and pinning when it comes to nails. Searches for glitter nails have
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increased in South Africa by 102%, with searches for marble nails up by 31% in Australia, ombré nails up by 88% in the US, while in Spain, women are mixing it up by painting each nail a different colour, with saves up 239%. Elsewhere, women are opting for more classic looks. In the UK, red nails remain popular with pins increasing by 90%; in Japan
nuance nails are in the spotlight (up by 55%) and in Mexico women are rocking beautiful nudes (68K searches). Meanwhile, the French manicure is also being updated with ‘baby boomer nails’, with pins up 172% in Germany and 100% in France. Pinterest’s report also revealed that nail styles still differ around the world, from the fully embellished to more understated looks.
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Competition director, Sonette van Rensburg, introduced new elements to encourage competitors to enter, by partnering with SAAHSP (Professional Body for the Skin, Body & Nail Care Industry). Competitors earned CPD points towards their continued professional development. Cash prizes were sponsored by ITEC, with online courses offered by Tracey Lee, and competition workshops by various suppliers. Says Van Rensburg: “This new approach really paid off and it was exciting to see so many competitors, some even from Angola. The standard of work was incredibly high.” Judges included international educators, David Fowler (The Image Cartel) and Eva Montelongo (Mia Secret). • Multi Media Fantasy – ‘Star Wars’ 1st Place – Sacha Benson (Lush at Ginger) 2nd Place – Tammy-Lee Knoetze Sponsored by Mia Secret
• Custom Colour Enhancements – “A Touch of Glass” 1st Place – Nadia Erasmus (Nadz Hope Nails) 2nd Place – Veronica de Aquiar (Bio Sculpture Caltonville) 3rd Place – Avianca Janse van Vuuren (Young Nails Fourways) Sponsored by Bio Sculpture • Gel Polish Creations – Pantone 2018 Ultra Violet & pairing shades 1st Place – Andrea Smith (Bio Sculpture) 2nd Place – Alicia van Eden (Bio Sculpture) 3rd Place – Larisa Gouws (Bio Sculpture Carltonville) Sponsored by Gelish • Classic Gel Polish – French & Red 1st Place – Leandi Burger (Bio Sculpture Carltonville) 2nd Place – Nomkhosi Shange (Lush at Ginger) 3rd Place Marina Labuschagne (Bio Sculpture) Sponsored by Jessica • Liquid & Powder Tip Overlay 1st Place – Yvette Kleynhans (Mia Secret) 2nd Place – Mary Kalenga (Sleek Hair & Beauty) Sponsored by QD Nails • Gel Tip Overlay 1st Place – Thandeka Bhengu (Sorbet Sandton Square) 2nd Place – Bianca van der Linde (Plush Nail & Beauty Bio Sculpture) 3rd Place – Cebesile Mbana Sponsored by LCN
New Bio Sculpture techniques introduced Bio Sculpture brand educators from all around South Africa and Namibia convened recently at the Birchwood Hotel and Conference Centre OR Tambo in Johannesburg to attend a practical training workshop presented by founder Elmien Scholtz. New techniques and application methods were introduced and
showcased to the group of around 35 educators. “Ongoing education and training is integral to the Bio Sculpture ethos and contributes to the high standard upheld by the Bio Sculpture brand,” says Scholtz. Also in attendance were Bio Sculpture SA manager, and head of international education, Tania Biddle.
• Sculpting Liquid & Powder 1st Place – Nicolien van der Heever 2nd Place – Chante Gericke (Desert Rose) 3rd Place – Louise Heyns (Young Nails) Sponsored by The Image Cartel • Sculpting Gel 1st Place – Yolande Robinson (Looking Good LCN) 2nd Place – Katlego Mampane (Looking Good LCN) 3rd Place – Franzelle de Villiers (Looking Good LCN) Sponsored by Gelish Hard Gel • Professionals Sculpting Challenge 1st Place – Oleksander Stefanyk (LCN Angola) 2nd Place – Maureen Brill (Bio Sculpture Carltonville) 3rd Place – Mariaan Cripps (Young Nails Fourways) Sponsored by SAAHSP, ITEC and Tracey Lee
News in pictures
With over 60 entries across all categories, the recent Annual Professional Beauty Nail Championship at Gallagher Convention Centre was one of the most successful to date.
Business Trends News
Professional Beauty Nail Championship makes history
South African nail professional, Eloise Nom Chong, won 3rd place out of 127 entries from all over the world in the Great Scratch Shoot Out 2018 Competition, to compete for the cover of Scratch magazine.
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Business
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ask
the experts
QUESTION: How do I go about implementing a new pricing structure that won’t drive clients away? CARMEN DANTU Price increase – the two words everyone dreads in each business environment. But price increases are necessary because inflation is always on the rise. But the question is – how do I make sure that my clients stay with me, despite the higher prices? Ensure that your clients understand that your services are top of the range and meet industry standards. Add that little extra to your treatment, such as a free hand or foot massage with a facial, so the client feels that they are getting value for money rather
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than just paying the extra money for the price increase. Make all new treatments attractive and offer the clients a special discount for their loyalty. Also, warn clients in advance when you are going to have a price increase so that it is not a shock to them when they see new prices. Be honest with your guests. Time your price increase right to make sure that the clients are satisfied with your service before implementing a price increase. Target a different client base and expand your target market.
Price increases can be handled in a modest way to suit the client’s pocket by simply adding in a little something extra, such as a sample size product or free hand or foot massage. The client will return because of that and will realise that the price increase isn’t that bad.
Carmen Dantu is the principal at the Beauty Therapy Institute @ Sorbet Rivonia.
YVETTE NEL With the startup of your beauty business it is so important to have the correct pricing structure from the get-go so that you won’t need to implement a completely new pricing structure later that may drive clients away. Unfortunately, often new businesses enter the market with very low prices, mainly to attract clients and because they are uninformed about the actual cost of product and how to calculate profit margins to sustain a profitable business. So, even if you are just starting out, rather have the correct prices you are working towards and run opening specials. It is much easier this way to eventually charge what you are worth, rather than starting too low and driving clients away because of ‘price increases’. It can be very demotivating to be really busy and work hard, but not take much money home. You would eventually have to make a
stand and change the pricing structure to a more profitable one. Some clients may never return – they will just find the next ‘uninformed’ therapist that charges next to nothing. What you need to create an accurate pricing structure is the actual cost per application – this you can request from your supplier. Keep in mind that suppliers only calculate the actual use of product cost – you will still have to add additional costs like rent, electricity, water and coffee / tea to calculate your true cost for a treatment. From this total you calculate the same profit margin throughout every treatment. There is also salon software available to accurately calculate your actual business running cost, as it may be challenging and time-consuming to calculate manually. Unfortunately, annual price increases are inevitable. Everything goes up due to many
economic reasons. It is best to align your business price increases with those of your suppliers. This is the most acceptable reason to say to your clients that due to the price increase of your supplier/s, you are also having a price adjustment. Normally suppliers provide prior notice to their increase from due date, so you can also provide prior notice by having a sign that announces the impending price increase at your pay-point, or wherever else is suitable in your salon. Some clients may have lots to say and others will not be bothered.
your running costs and compare that with what your salon needs to make to keep it afloat. Know what your competitors are charging, but remember to compare apples with apples. Next, charge what you are worth – not only on the type of treatments you offer, but what comes with it and what you offer your clients that is exceptional due to your experience, expertise and reputation. • Added value – Maximise your client’s spend by adding value to your treatments, offering a complimentary service or product to make your clients feel as if they are getting more for their money. Offer an extra massage, or add a warm or cool towel, or an incentive for introducing new clients. Even the smallest gesture will go a long way. • Communicate – Be transparent and inform your staff and your
clients well ahead of time that you plan to change your pricing structure. Communicate with your clients so they can plan or budget for it. Convey the message in such a way that they don’t feel as if your pricing is going up just to make an extra buck; give them an acceptable explanation and let them know what the added benefit or value will be. Offering your clients something that is unique will make them want to return. So make it all about the value and experience they receive, not just because the price is right.
Yvette Nel is a diverse nail, health and beauty influencer with 14 years of experience in nail/beauty salons, education, marketing, retail and distribution. Nel is the founder of Trend Mi Life.
SONETTE VAN RENSBURG We are all very aware that the cost of living continues to go up and sometimes our pricing needs to be adjusted. However, there seems to be a fear associated with doing so but if it is done for the right reasons, then you shouldn’t have to feel apprehensive, especially if you have a good relationship with your clients. Although there are many elements that can attract a client to a salon, price may well be an influencing factor. For some it may be really important in order to fit into their monthly budgets and they will compare your prices with other salons, while other clients may not mind the price increase, especially if they feel they are getting value for their spend. • Why raise your pricing – You need to consider some very important aspects to justify price increases and to know what your pricing should be. Firstly, take into consideration
Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 28 years. She consults with salons and spas and trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail technology.
online @ probeauty.co.za
BusinessBusiness Trends
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Business StyleTrends Savvy
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festive flair Whatever feelings of excitement the festive season invokes in you, make sure your nail trends for this time of the year do the same, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
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ith each season there are nail fashion trends and colours, which can sometimes be quite predictable. Just as the Easter Bunny, Easter eggs and pastel shades are synonymous with Easter, so are reindeers, snowmen, candy cane stripes, glitter and shades of red and green associated with the festive season. However, your client’s nails don’t have to look like ostentatious baubles or Christmas ornaments – it’s time to get inventive, tone it down and try something a little out of the ordinary, yet still with a festive flair. Have some fun with shimmers instead of chunks of glitter, this can still look just as festive and glam. Layered over any colour, shimmers create a frosted, subtle sparkle and understated look. A prevalent trend for the upcoming season is elusive holographic and iridescent shades
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in combinations of opal, pinks and amethyst, with touches of gold and silver, creating a gorgeous threedimensional effect.
Chrome Textured chrome polishes and powders are also big, displaying a more up to date, contemporary and sophisticated look, with a super shine. Both are great to accentuate an accent finger or two, or can be used to add a little extra detail, changing up an ordinary manicure to a grander one. For a more minimalistic but extravagant look, bits of gold or silver foil added to a completely naked nail and coated with a clear layer, or a soft see-through shimmer, looks quite spectacular.
Popular colours Don’t dismiss the usual popular colours just yet; for those who prefer easy going pastels or brighter summery shades and even snowy white, transform them into something more showy yet refined. Use a different hue on each
nail in the same colour spectrum, graduating from darker to lighter, or vice versa, and add accents of shimmer for a delicate luster. No matter what the season or time of year, red will always be a popular choice. For this season though choose a shade which is a little more distinctive, with an exceptional sheen that absolutely makes it ‘pop’ and even gild or frost the tips of the nails with gold or silver for some extra elegant splendour. For those who want to keep it more traditional in a combination of green, red and gold with a Christmassy animated character or design, be sure to choose newer, up to date colour tones, a more refined glitter and add a rhinestone to Rudolph’s shiny nose, for a bit of extra bling. Wishing you all a joyous and colourful holiday season, filled with fun, festive nail fashion flair and don’t forget to send us pics of your festive nailfies!
Business StyleTrends Savvy
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Bio Sculpture
NSI
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Nail Design Business Competition Trends
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Photographic Nail Design Competition
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ur final NailFile Photographic Nail Design Competition theme for the year is:
AVANT GARDE FASHION FOR NAILS!
Originating from the French word, ‘advance guard’ or ‘vanguard’, this theme, allows you to push your creative boundaries beyond the norm. Experiment, be innovative and create fashion forward nail designs, as out of the ordinary as you want them to be. THE CREATIVE RULES • Designs must be created according to the theme ‘Avant Garde Fashion for Nails’. • Rhinestones and embellishments may be used but must not dominate the design work. • Nail stylists have complete artistic freedom to interpret and create their designs in any style they wish using flat, encapsulated 2D or 3D design work and techniques. • Designs must be created on a live model and can be done on either natural nails or enhancements and not on tips only. • Photographs must be of a high quality. • The model’s hands, cuticles and nails must be perfectly manicured and in a good condition, PLEASE remove cuticle oil prior to taking your final photo entry. • Nails must be properly and neatly shaped, with the same shape and length consistent throughout. Any length and shape may be achieved to suit the design work and theme. • A combination of products and nail systems may be used. • All 10 of the model’s nails must have a design and creation on them, each design on each nail must be different but must complement one another, be consistent in design and flow throughout all 10 nails to tell a story. • Designs must be the nail stylist’s own original work and not copied. • Please provide a step by step of your work, the inspiration behind your design, explanation and photos. Additional points will be awarded for presentation. • Photos must be submitted by no later than the 25th November • Photos must be emailed to nailfile@probeauty.co.za and must be clearly indicated and labeled with the name of the Nail Technician. Sponsored By: • Submit good quality photos only. • Please make sure you email your full details, salon name and contact details along with your photograph. • Winners and placements will be announced on social media and the following issue of Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine.
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It was Suloshini Singh’s enjoyment of working in the corporate luxury goods sector that inspired her to open a salon, Crème Nail and Beauty in Centurion. Joanna Sterkowicz finds out more.
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chartered accountant and certified internal auditor by trade, Suloshini Singh’s professional career went from consultancy to advisory in manufacturing, luxury consumer goods (cosmetics and perfumery) and advertising and marketing. “I loved working in the luxury goods sector because it showed me that one can derive much joy from seeing the effects of pampering someone else. I’m passionate about beauty and making sure that people get to experience the best version of themselves,” says Singh. She opened Crème Nail and Beauty in Forest Hill Mall Centurion in September 2018. The salon is owned by Radar Investment Properties, the shareholding of which is held by herself and her husband, Yasvanth Singh, who is in IT.
Not surprisingly, Crème’s treatment menu includes corporate packages comprising nail services (manis/pedis) and head/neck/ shoulder massages. Singh continues: “The reason I introduced this was because I spent many years in a corporate environment and did not always have time to be pampered. Hence, the Crème team comes to you and in the time it takes for a tea break, we can offer you a pampering session. “We bring everything with us and all we need is a meeting room with a power socket. The cost for the service is either borne by the company, or each person pays us while we are there. This is dependent on the wellness strategy of the organisation.”
In the detail She maintains that Crème offers the attention to detail and customer service that is sometimes lost in bigger stores. “We offer a beauty
experience at a fair price and ensure that the client leaves with a sense of indulgence without being stifled by the guilt of overspending. “Crème carries various ranges to make sure that every person who wants to be pampered can enjoy that opportunity. We will go the extra mile to provide clients with an indulgent experience. Our most popular nail services are full colour house acrylic with tips and the Luxe Pedi.” The salon’s five manicure stations are complemented by a pedicure station comprising three recliners and footspas that massage the feet. There are five full time nail techs. “As for brands, we stock Morgan Taylor, Gelish, and Orly. Morgan Taylor is a personal preference for me, while Orly is important to cater for clients with religious beliefs who prefer using breathable lacquer,” concludes Singh.
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Business SalonTrends Focus
Crème de la crème
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66 Nail Health
Nail Nurture – Part 5.2:
Serious illnesses and conditions
In the previous Nail Nurture article, we focused on the nail professional’s responsibility of being well educated and informed, as well as the effects of improper practices in our industry. Here Sonette van Rensburg writes about performing services on clients with serious conditions and illnesses and looks at some of the latest unsafe practices and techniques.
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irstly, I would like to remind you of something really important that seems to be disregarded by some nail techs – consultation. I’m not just talking about a form with your client’s contact details but a comprehensive consultation with pertinent questions to establish everything you need to know about their lifestyle, health, medication and allergies, including a thorough analysis of their nails and skin.
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Customise your service in such a way to make sure the client’s safety is placed first and foremost.
Explain to the client why it is important to know this information when performing any nail, hand or foot service. It will not only assist you in meeting their needs, it also ensures that you know exactly what you are dealing with so that you can proceed in the safest way. Performing services on clients with serious conditions or illnesses such as poor circulation, diabetes or any other chronic conditions can have many serious implications, as they are far more likely to have an adverse reaction. Poor circulation
is usually due to an obstruction or blockage, resulting from another illness such as diabetes or other chronic conditions that prevent oxygen rich blood from circulating and assisting with the healing process. It can also cause other problems such as itchy or dry skin, tingling, discolouration, slow healing wounds, ulcerations and loss of sensation. Diabetics are particularly prone to infections should they be accidentally cut or injured and are also far more susceptible to bacterial conditions of the nails and skin. Although these services can sometimes be very beneficial for these clients, you would have to proceed with extreme caution and strictly with the permission of a doctor only. Customise your service in such a way to make sure the client’s safety is placed first and foremost. Hygiene and sanitation will be the most vital aspect in making sure everything is completely clean and disinfected to prevent cross
contamination. Keep the service basic as you don’t want to overdo it. Use new, softer grit files with smooth edges so as not to abrade the skin and avoid using any sharp implements to cut or remove any skin tissue. Lastly, educate them as to a proper, safe home care routine.
Dry manis & pedis A new procedure is performing dry manicures and pedicures. I am all for being conscientious about conserving water, however I’m not talking about soaking the hands and feet in bucket loads of water for long periods of time, as that also has adverse effects. But rather the harsh technique of pushing back cuticles using nothing whatsoever but an implement or orange wood stick. Pushing back cuticles when they are dry will only tear them and cause them to look untidy, which is when they are most likely nipped and cut away.
Cuticle cutting Despite warnings as to why the cutting of cuticles is unsafe, some nail techs persist on doing this. Some don’t even know the difference between living skin (cuticle) and non-living skin (true cuticle). When living skin tissue is cut, it leads to openings in the skin and the risk of infection. Using good quality professional products to soften the cuticles and break down non-living skin tissue; along with proper safe techniques, is the only way to achieve effective and safe cuticle work.
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Dry foot filing I feel dry foot filing is not safe and it is unhealthy for the tech or therapist performing the service. They could be inhaling the dead skin cells flying through the air and there is the possibility of spores from an undetected fungal infection landing on your work surfaces. >
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Also, it is difficult to tell how far you have filed so you could end up overfilling, causing the feet to become over sensitive. I have personally not seen or experienced good results at all when this has been done on my feet, making them feel as if they have gone through a cheese grater. Only a qualified pedicurist or nail technologist is allowed to smooth down callouses to reduce and soften them. Yet some callouses are being cut and filed away by nail techs and at times even completely dissolved, which could lead to serious injuries and infections. Remember that the skin has its own natural defence mechanism, so the more you remove, the more it comes back. Gradually reducing callouses with the proper procedures and products will provide a far better, safer and longer lasting result.
Harsh techniques So, why then are harsh techniques and procedures continually being performed to achieve results which
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are thought can be achieved, but are causing more damage and harm than is necessary, and at what cost? Personally, I think it’s all for the sake of saving time and product, with maybe a bit of laziness in the mix, and sadly also a lack of knowledge. We are in the business of taking care of clients and making them feel good about themselves. As such, we should be ensuring that we provide our clients with effective services, while fostering and maintaining the safe practices we have been taught to do, and that is nurturing our clients’ natural nails and skin.
Doug Schoon on the ‘Russian’ manicure I asked internationally-recognised scientist, author and educator, Doug Schoon, for his view on the ‘Russian’ manicure. Here is his response: Some are teaching a risky technique that goes by several different names, including the ‘Russian’ manicure. This is a potential threat to the entire nail
industry because it promotes the intentional cutting and/or abrasion of the living skin surrounding the nail plate. It’s claimed the ‘nails look prettier’, but that’s a poor reason to jeopardise a client’s health when safer ways to perform a manicure exist. Those who teach these techniques don’t use the term ‘abrasion’, using nicer marketing terms like ‘buffing’ or ‘polishing’ instead. They also claim to be removing pterygium, when they are actually removing skin from the proximal nail fold and sidewalls. Cutting and abrading will damage this skin and create the very problem manicures are supposed to solve! It results in more damaged skin that later must be cut or abraded away. Many report the skin around the nail plate grows back thicker, so they need to use the method regularly, just to keep up. Some mistakenly think that using only sterile or disposable implements prevents infections. Not true! Whenever the living skin is cut or abraded, the damaged area is more susceptible to
Nail Health
infection for many hours, even days, and the risks remain until the damage heals. Also, damaged skin is more susceptible to irritation and may lead to permanent allergic reactions to nail coating products. Many who use this technique place nail coating products directly onto or against the damaged skin, further increasing the client’s risk for adverse skin reactions. These bits may be less abrasive, but when any bit is spinning at thousands of RPM and placed against the skin, the surface will be abraded and this can reduce the skin’s effectiveness as a barrier, which makes it easier for infections and adverse skin reactions to occur. The skin around the nails is much thinner and easier to damage than that on the palm of the hand or bottom of the foot. It is foolish for those teaching this method to believe it must be safe, just because they don’t have problems, and even more foolish to teach these methods to the masses via the internet. Nor do I think so-called certification classes are the answer. Many students often disregard important precautions and will return to the salon and do it ‘their way’. Then they’ll teach other nail technicians to do the same. Soon, the precautions will be forgotten. This could have unforeseen consequences that could harm clients, as well as the reputation of the nail industry as a whole. Nail salons are already under intense scrutiny and don’t need the media or salon-bashing activist groups using this as another reason to avoid salons. Many will be frightened by such techniques. This will lead to even more people being afraid of nail technicians and their services, rather than enjoying the many benefits that salons offer. Never intentionally cut or abrade the skin around the nail plate — that’s trouble waiting to happen! Protect and pamper the skin around your clients’ nails. Explain to your clients and friends why they should avoid this as well.
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Remove the protection sticker from the image plate • Choose the desired image and apply the MoYou special nail varnish • Use the MoYou scraper to remove excess, using a 45° angle • Roll the MoYou stamp to pick up the image (Tip: Do not use force when stamping and do not roll more than once) • Roll stamp on nail thoroughly from one side to the other • Apply MoYou Top Coat for longer lasting results. Please note that we have relocated our office to: 25 Hampton Court Road, Gallo Manor Our new office number is 011 656 4474 Email info@moyou.co.za website: www.moyou.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za
70 In the Market
Product
HUB
Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.
Think pink LCN recently launched its What do you Pink? Collection to coincide with Breast Cancer Month. Positioned as ‘a pink trend that honours the Super-Women in our daily lives’, the collection comprises six shades. These are: Pink Up Your Shimmer (azalea purple/pink with shimmer); Pinks Preferred (adorable effect polish with a mix of pink, silver and light blue particles); Fuchsia Babe (fuchsia tone like raspberry rouge); Pink Party (the classic pink); Roselicious (light pink like a pale rose); and Liquid Pearl (light pink polish with white shimmering veil).
010 593 3293
Cool for the summer Hot weather deserves cool nails and things are looking brighter than ever with Gelish & Morgan Taylor’s Make A Splash Collection. These six ultra-bright shades include everything from fuchsia and coral pink with glimmers of shimmer, to an orange and green that radiate with happy colour vibes. The hues are complemented by Cellophane Coat, a balloon inspired overlay that gives just the right amount of sparkling pop to each shade, ensuring your clients will have pool party-pretty nails all season.
011 447 0659
Good feeling Bio Sculpture Gel’s More Than A Feeling Collection reflects this season’s cool colour palette, evoking one’s most buoyant moods from the landscapes of the inner soul. The 1980s are back big time. This collection was inspired by the luxury of seeking out silent moments belonging only to you and the poetic depth of raw emotions.
051 943 0377
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Colours and the City NSI has launched the New Orleans Nightlife collection, featuring six brand new Polish Pro shades in sticky vibrant hues that make you the star of any party. Colours include Bourbon Street; French Quarter; Bead Throw; Voodoo Punch; Ragtime Band; and Fat Tuesday. Polish Pro is a revolutionary gel nail polish formula that lasts two to three times longer than a natural nail manicure, without chipping, smudging or cracking.
012 997 4010
Hands and feet
Right on top
MatsiMela has launched the Spa Pedicure Range with all the benefits of natural plant extracts and pure oils, including peppermint oil. Meanwhile, MatsiMela’s Spa Manicure Range was created as a pure indulgence to nourish, hydrate and restore vitality to hands. It uses active ingredients and plant extracts to leave the skin nourished and includes an exfoliating sugar scrub and moisturising soy mask.
Calgel has launched the Matte Top Coat to apply over any Calgel colour gel to achieve a matt effect that lasts up to four weeks. Also newly launched is Calgel’s Non Wipe Top Gel, a high gloss finishing coat (over colour gel) that does not leave a sticky residue. The shine also lasts up to four weeks.
083 407 8280
011 624 1101
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Q&A
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Top Tech Talk NailFile talks to Khomotso Carol Mabulana, a finalist in the Nail Professional of the Year category of the 2018 Professional Beauty Awards, about her one-woman business in Tzaneen. What initially sparked your interest in nails? Growing up I was always fascinated by different colours on a hand. From my teenage years, I used to buy lots of nail polish and became the nail guru among my friends. I was a boarder in school and used to collect all my nail polish during school holidays. Really, I’ve always wanted to be the reason behind someone feeling beautiful in some way and I guess being a nail technician fulfilled that. It was also totally different to the career field chosen by my sisters, who are both nurses. And in general, I love what I do.
For how long have you been a nail professional? Eight years.
When did you open Motso’s Nail Place / SimplicitiBar? In 2015.
Why did you want to open your own business? I had, and still have, different values, aspects and visions. By 2015, I had learned a lot from people I worked with and shared a space with and I was ready to embark on a new venture that would grow me as Khomotso. I work alone as a nail technician but I do have an assistant to help with a few things.
There is a lot of lovely nail art on your Facebook page – do most of your clients request nail art? Yes, they do. They’re actually the reason I’m eager to learn something new every time.
Nails are an accessory that complete the whole package of being a lady, you can never go out without them. A lady speaks and addresses matters with her hands – she can’t raise a hand with blank nails. Do you have a particular style or type of nail art that you most enjoy doing? At the moment, I enjoy trying to do something new each time. I always encourage my clients to challenge me so that I can learn more and I also push myself to give my clients more of what is expected of me.
Do most of your nail art clients show you an image of what nail art they would like, or do they just leave it up to your creativity? The majority of my clients leave it up to my creativity as they trust I will come up with something they will love.
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I believe you are keen to keep furthering your own nail education? Yes, that is definitely the plan as the nail industry is growing daily. I want to attend different nail art classes and also do a conversion to some good nail product brands that are growing in this industry. If I were to partake in one or two training classes each year, it would keep me updated on all the new trends.
Apparently you are also wanting to upskill untrained nail techs in your area?
One of your testimonials reads: “Even after years with Khomotso being my nail artist, she always says that a lady is not fully dressed until she gets her nails done”. Please comment. Nails are an accessory that complete the whole package of being a lady, you can never go out without them. A lady speaks and addresses matters with her hands – she can’t raise a hand with blank nails.
What do you most love about your job? What I love most about my job is that I do what I love and what I’m passionate about. Seeing smiles on my clients’ faces motivates me to wake up every morning and look forward to a brighter day.
What is your customer service ethos? A client must leave Motso’s Nails happy and looking forward to their next appointment.
I am already pursuing this desire of training people who lack client service skills. It will aid in the encouragement of the youth to pursue their dreams and create more job opportunities in my area to prevent poverty.
Are you planning to set up a training centre? Yes I am, most definitely. It’ll be an honour to pass on my talents.
What did being nominated as a finalist in the Nail Professional Category of the Year in the Professional Beauty Awards mean to you? It meant a lot to me, I’m not only proud of my work, but also of myself. I am very grateful to all my clients and for all the support I’ve been getting from my friends and family. It was not an easy journey, but it was worth it.
What are your future plans regarding your salon? To offer more services and continue making people happy.
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