Jan/Feb 2015
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To the point Micro needling
The big pitch Retail selling tips
Way to go Standard Operating Procedures
d u r ba n
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30 55
In this issue... Regulars
Nails
5 Industry news
60 Fashion at your fingertips
Local and international news
58 Hair news
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
Nail art
Features
64 Product news
28 Professional Beauty Durban Show Preview
All the latest launches
70 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
68
What to look out for at KZN’s biggest show
Business 1&2
13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa
MARCH 2015
Tracking the industry with stats
d u r ba n
14 That all important acronym – SOP
How to ensure tip-top service
20 The subtle art of prescription
Retail selling tips
24 East meets West – what’s new
Beauty trends in the East
26 The EU classification maze
Defining the term ‘cosmetic products’
Spa Focus
30 The phenomenon of black skin revision
Facts and myths
34 Treating darker hues
Suitable products for African skin
41 Treatment Reviews
Body contouring
19 Revamp for Arabella Spa
51 Focusing on eczema
How the Arabella refurbished itself
Medical Aesthetics 68 Results with retinol
The benefits of vitamin A
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34
How to treat this skin condition
55 Needlepoint
The latest on micro needling
28
41
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
Welcome
S
o, here we are at the beginning of another new year – a year that will hopefully see salons, spas, distributors and manufacturers thrive, despite the threat of power cuts and the challenge of an unfavourable exchange rate, which translates into ever-increasing prices for imported products. In this issue we introduce a regular feature called Insider Salon/Insider Spa, the purpose of which is to track how the industry is faring in terms of business. For this inaugural instalment of Insider Salon/Insider Spa, we look at how 2014 compared to 2013. We always start the year off with a focus on African skin, and this issue includes a fascinating article by acknowledged skincare expert DannÊ Montague-King, who conducted in-depth research on the subject in South Africa in the 1980s. There are also articles on how therapists can prescribe products to clients in a way that should ensure sales, the importance of having an SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) manual in your salon or spa, micro needling as a skin rejuvenation modality, and body-contouring treatment reviews. The Professional Beauty team is looking forward to the Professional Beauty Durban Show, which will take place at the Durban ICC in its brand-new time slot of 1 & 2 March. This issue includes a sneak peek at just some of the exciting products and innovations that will be on display. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Jan/Feb 2015
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industry news
5
News All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails.
Mariska du Plessis, Paul Fox, Orenna Krut and Stephen Delport
MSD celebrates Thalgo’s 50th birthday On 24 November Marine Spa Distributors (MSD) held an event to commemorate the 50th anniversary of premium French skincare brand, Thalgo, at Camelot Spa Villa d’Este in Johannesburg. Thalgo’s area manager for South Europe, Middle East and Africa, Frédéric Crosaz, was present at the event. He said: “Thalgo is a family-owned company with strong values. We are in 90 countries, in 500 prestigious resort spas all over the world. “Thalgo invents the beauty of tomorrow. We invest in advanced research in order to push the boundaries of ‘Marine Intelligence’. This includes developing new massage techniques, creating ever more effective formulas and making an even greater commitment to excellence. “MCeutics is Thalgo’s first demaceutical brand and will launch in 2015. This is our medical-like approach to correcting skin disorders. The MCeutics range is made with a very high concentration of active ingredients.” The event also served as the launch pad for the Prodige Des Océans Essence, and Thalgo’s new device, the I Beauty Ingenious Skin Solution, which uses three technologies (sounds vibrations, sequential ultrasound and radio-frequency) to offer a complete facial treatment menu. Perfect 10 Bedford Centre became the first South African salon to purchase an I Beauty, closely followed by Orange Peel in Cape Town.
Frédéric Crosaz and brand ambassador Johanna Mukoki
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New Industry Beauty Qualification The internationally recognised Industry Beauty Qualification (SA) was officially launched in Johannesburg on 19 November by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology & Beauty), UASA (The Union) and City & Guilds.
S
aid the EOHCB’s Mariska du Plessis: “We saw the need for therapist training that meets the requirements of both the industry and the consumer sector. The new qualification will move us closer to the ideal of the aesthetic therapist. “This is just the beginning – now comes the roll-out and ensuring all the schools take up the qualification. In three years we will have our first crop of aesthetic therapists.” Du Plessis thanked the National Bargaining Council for facilitating the process of drawing up the qualification, and Centurion Academy for being part of the beauty task team. The EOHCB, UASA and City & Guilds signed an agreement of collaboration at the launch.
News in pictures Senior advisor to Danish cosmeceutical skincare brand Beauté Pacifique, Tilde Orum Sauer, visited South Africa recently to demonstrate the Dermascan ultrasound device to the local market. Dermascan allows therapists to analyse the layers beneath the skin. Pictured are Sauer (right) and Natalie Oosthuizen from South African distributor, Prana.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
industry news
6 News in brief
■ Sorbet launches skincare range: Nail and beauty salon chain Sorbet has launched Sorbet Skin Care, developed in conjunction with Clicks.
Peeling clinic opens in Sandton Internationally qualified professional skincare therapist Sonette Donker has opened Skin iD, a peeling practice located at Johannesburg’s Sandton Medi Clinic.
S
kin iD offers chemical peels to correct the signs of ageing, hyperpigmentation and acne. Donker has 20 years of experience in the professional skincare industry, having worked for companies such as Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International, Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and pHformula. Says Donker. “My passion for chemical peeling dates back to when I conducted training on chemical peeling aimed at doctors, nurses and therapists for Conquest Aesthetics several years ago.” Skin iD is situated adjacent to the rooms of reconstructive and plastic surgeon Dr Anton Potgieter,
who will refer patients to Donker for their peeling requirements. Donker offers the Dermaceutic range of peels. “These peels are only available in a medical setting so I Sonette Donker want to differentiate myself by working with these types of brands that are not available in a normal beauty salon.” Skin iD also consults to companies in the medical aesthetic industry. Services include staff training, education curriculum development and PR services.
New online business tool Building on the strengths and experience gained from the popular SpaGuru desktop application, SpaGuru CC has launched its new online product, ChiDesk. Key features include appointment scheduling, point of sale, and marketing and employee management. Support for multiple locations is seamless,
allowing the user to control multiple businesses from a single account. The ability to share client, loyalty, voucher and pricing information across multiple sites is also supported. A locally hosted version of ChiDesk is available to South Africans, ensuring optimal speeds and minimal downtime due to international internet outages.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
■ Anesi infiltrates KZN: Five salons in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) have taken on Spanish skincare and body care range Anesi, following a successful launch event in Umhlanga hosted by distributor Exclusive Beauty Solutions. ■ Dermalogica increases its ‘Tribe’: Perfect 10 in Honeydew Village, Roodepoort, has taken on the Dermalogica brand. ■ Snow Algae Powder honoured: Based on the extract of a unique algae that is able to grow on glaciers and permanent snow, Mibelle Biochemistry’s Snow Algae Powder has won the Frost & Sullivan Best Practices European Anti-Ageing Skin Care New Product Innovation Leadership Award. ■ MUD opens three new showrooms: Make-Up Designory (MUD) showrooms have opened in the Free State, Northern Cape and Nelspruit, Mpumalanga. ■ DMK SA appoints ambassador: Danne MontagueKing South Africa (DMK SA) has appointed popular TV presenter Liezel van de r Westhuizen (Idols, Expresso) as ambassador.
Liezel van der Westhuizen
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industry news
8
New SA skincare range
Celebrity tanner for Vita Liberata
South African hair and make-up brand Hannon has launched a professional skincare range – the result of 11 years of development.
T
he company’s Hannon Bothma describes himself as a ‘walking experiment’ for the range, which was developed in association with cosmetic and chemistry engineers from the University of the North-West and the University of South Africa, as well as a selected group of beauty therapists. “We have launched Hannon Skin Care with 16 products, including two cleansers, a toner, two exfoliators, two serums, two masks and a variety of moisturisers. “The range is formulated with the patented ingredient, Moist 24, which reverses the ageing process and remains active for 24 hours. It is derived from an extract from the roots of a plant called Imperata Cyllindrica,” says Bothma. He notes that he personally selected beauty therapists from the
Darryn Johnson
different climate regions in South Africa to use and test laboratory samples on themselves, as well as their clients. According to their feedback and recommendations, the Hannon laboratory samples were adjusted and often reformulated over a period of 11 years. During this development stage the samples were used and tested on individuals with a range of skin sensitivities. No reports of irritation to these products have been reported to date.
Team celebrity tanner Darryn Johnson has joined Vita Liberata South Africa from the UK as sales executive and head trainer. Johnson will not only train all Vita Liberata’s Western Cape salons and spas, but will also be the in-house private hire ‘Tanista’ for clients who wish to receive a Vita Liberata home experience.
New development at Babor
News in pictures Nina Von Wielligh
Radiant Healthcare sponsored prize packages of the Velashape III and Cooltech Fat Freeze for the winner and finalists of the Rapport newspaper competition
for the new film, Leading Lady. Pictured are the Radiant Healthcare team at the film’s première with the winner Elsa Doubell (in white dress).
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
Babor South Africa has appointed Nina Von Wielligh as its new sales representative for Cape Town. Before starting her journey with Babor, Von Wielligh, who was born and raised in Cape Town, worked as a paramedical therapist and has a strong passion for skincare. “Nina’s extensive skincare knowledge, coupled with a meticulous work ethic, makes her a valuable asset to every Babor client,” says Leigh-Anne Wagner, Babor South Africa’s brand manager.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
industry news
10
Importer launches wellness lounge In what is believed to be a unique concept, import company Prana has launched a wellness lounge at Planet Fitness Wanderers in Johannesburg,
T
he brainchild of Prana MD Debbie Wolfendale and business partner Nicola Tyler, Prana & Co was officially launched on 13 November. It offers beauty, nail, nutrition and aesthetic treatments, as well as alternative therapies. Says Tyler: “Debbie and I wanted to
do something different with the Prana name, realising that only through collaboration would the business succeed. We’ve been talking about Prana & Co for the past three years. It’s been a big shift to move from distribution to a service and retail business.”
Dermalogica staff upwardly mobile Dermalogica has announced that two of its staff have been promoted – Claudia da Silva (formerly operations manager) is now general manager, while financial manager Aimee Hollis has been appointed as a director of the company.
Poise team expands
Scholtz appointed SAAHSP president Tina Scholtz has been appointed as president of SAAHSP (South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals). With over 40 years of experience in the industry, Scholtz, who is owner of the Potchefstroom Academy, has always been actively involved with improving industry standards. She has been on the SAAHSP board on and off for the past 20 years, and served as vice-president for several years. Scholtz also held the position of professional body coordinator and
She notes that Wolfendale took a long time to identify the people who would make up the ‘& Co’ part of the wellness lounge. These include aesthetic doctor Melissa Smith, chiropractor Debbie Harmon, nutritionist Jocelyn Thompson and Tamarin Barker, who offers lesion/blemish removal services with a radio frequency device. Each of the above runs their own business under the Prana ethos. Wolfendale has developed several bespoke signature beauty treatments for the wellness lounge that are a mix of Eastern and Western cultures. The front of the wellness lounge acts as the showroom for the range of products distributed by Prana.
Luzinda De Meyer has joined the Poise Brands team as Mio Skincare business development consultant for Eastern and Western Cape. Poise Brands has appointed Barbara Meintjies as Juliette Armand business developer for Gauteng and Surrounds.
chairperson for the committee, developing the generic National Diploma Health and Skincare.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
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business trends
13
Insider The year in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN 2014 COMPARE TO 2013?
58 % BETTER
Insider is our new and exclusive business round-up. We polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Cape Town, East London, Durban and Port Elizabeth to gauge how 2014 panned out for the industry.
PERCENTAGE OF BUSINESS GENERATED BY RETURN CLIENTS
IN 2014
81%
10
% SAME
32
% WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY IN 2014
AVERAGE TREATMENT PRICE INCREASE IN 2014
9
%
Insider Salon
67% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN 2014 COMPARE TO 2013?
47
It is evident that salon owners found 2014 a challenging year % BETTER due to the poor economy, the weak exchange rate, power cuts and petrol price increases. Yet % SAME despite this, more than half of you experienced a growth in treatment business. % WORSE The biggest revenue generators in terms of treatments in 2014 were waxing and pedicures, while the most popular nail treatments were gel and standard manicures. Most respondents to the Insider survey cited sourcing suitable staff as their biggest concern, as well as finding new clients.
Insider Spa All respondents to the survey reported a growth in treatment business in 2014 – a sure sign that the global wellness trend is alive and well in South Africa. However, the growth in treatment business from spa to spa varied quite considerably, with one spa reporting a 1% increase, while another cited a 65% increase. This vast disparity between numbers must be taken into consideration when reading the figure of average growth in treatment business quoted below. Only four spas did not increase treatment prices in 2014. As one would expect, the most overwhelmingly popular treatment at spas in 2014 was massage. The biggest problem currently experienced by spa managers is finding suitably trained staff members who are committed to the job.
AVERAGE GROWTH IN TREATMENT BUSINESS IN 2014 COMPARED TO 2013
20
%
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82
% BETTER
18
21
32
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN 2014 COMPARE TO 2013?
% WORSE
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY
69%
AVERAGE TREATMENT PRICE INCREASE IN 2014
9.4%
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
business tips
14
That all important acronym – SOP With service and customer satisfaction a key element for sustainability and survival, Marisa Dimitriadis looks at what steps spas need to take to ensure tiptop service and make customers return.
H
ave you ever called a salon to make a booking and found that the telephone is answered differently all the time? Have you ever had the same treatment with a different therapist and one treatment was amazing while the other was absolutely awful? Do you sometimes get offered homecare advice and given a professional product recommendation, and sometimes not? Is your facility sometimes spotless and at other times a little messy? I am 100% sure that you can relate to at least one of the above. One of the biggest challenges faced by beauty salons and spas is to standardise the level of service within the business. This can ONLY be done with a Standard Operating Procedures (SOP) Manual which, in my opinion, needs to be issued to each new staff
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
member, in conjunction with a full training session of about three weeks on these procedures. Do you have an SOP manual in your business? I won’t be surprised if you say no, as this is a mammoth task to complete. But I can assure you that once you have a template and a few procedures in place, you will see how necessary it is to operate your business from this manual.
Definition An SOP is a written document outlining the company’s policies and procedures. WHY DO YOU NEED ONE? To standardise procedures, to ensure consistency, to ensure that the company expectations are clear and precise, to maintain the highest international standards, and to upgrade service delivery continuously. R
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business tips
16 ANGEL SPA
POLICIES AND PROCEDURES Subject: Receiving of stock
Code: AS6020
Division: Management/Front Desk/Therapists Standard: Receive stock quickly and in a professional manner away from the reception area. Policy: Stock to be placed in the storeroom and to be checked by management or receptionists only.
HOW DO I GO ABOUT THIS? It’s a huge task to decide what procedures you want to standardise in your business. Here are some MUST HAVE’S: • Taking a booking • Confirming a booking • Giving directions • Answering calls • Guest arrival and welcome • Treatment room set-up • Locker set-up • Cancellation of bookings • No appointment on arrival • Payment confirmations • Department checklists • Receiving stock from a supplier • Start of every treatment • Treatment procedure • End of every treatment • Dealing with a complaint • Guest check-out • Sexual harassment • Dealing with colleagues • Therapist grooming And the list continues. In our business every time we have a misunderstanding of how things should be done, we implement an SOP immediately. For example, someone called in to our offices the other day and asked for directions and neither the receptionist or accountant knew how to give directions. Our general manager immediately implemented an SOP on ‘How to direct a client to our office’. Now there can be no doubt as the entire procedure is documented step by step. Above is a real example of an SOP document. Now your task is to first decide on a list of SOPs and then take one at a
Procedure: Receive stock through the front door and immediately move it to the storeroom. Sign the delivery sheet UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS STOCK TO BE LEFT LYING AT THE RECEPTION AREA Check stock quantity is correct and quality of packaging good in storeroom Tick next to each and every product on the invoice to confirm that it is in the box Discrepancies on invoice to be immediately reported to accounts department of supplier and noted on the invoice. Date, name and sign on the invoice of the person who checked the stock Place checked invoice in the INVOICES TO BE LOADED IN the system tray in store room Price retail stock according to prices on the system Place priced retail stock on the retail shelves Place professional stock on relevant product tray or shelf
time and decide what you want your business standard to be. Then discuss it with staff and get their input and create a final manual.
Implementation The next mammoth task is how to implement and maintain the SOPs. Some pointers below: • Issue each staff member with a draft manual • Allow time to study • Role-play EVERY single SOP • Role-play a second time with different staff • Allow staff interaction and feedback • Make final changes • Allow time to study • Written examination • Mystery guest review for ALL staff over a three-month period The success of your SOP manual lies in how often you refer to it, meaning that when a staff member makes a mistake or does something
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
that is not according to company policy and procedure, a formal reference to the SOP manual must be made and all staff made aware of it. This way the next time a staff member is not sure, they will refer to the SOP manual. You also need to update your manual at least once a year. Staff must be retrained in full on the manual at least once a year, even if they know it off by heart. It’s necessary to continuously add to the manual as the need arises. The second the need arises for another SOP, don’t waste time and draw one up immediately and implement. PB
Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.
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spa focus
19
Revamp for
Arabella Spa The spa at the Arabella Hotel in Hermanus recently underwent a six-month long refurbishment while still remaining fully operational throughout, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
O
pened in 2001, the Arabella Hotel & Spa nestles on the scenic route from Cape Town to Kleinmond, between the majestic Kogelberg Mountains and the Botriver Lagoon. According to assistant spa manager Jenny Kusel, the refurbishment of the spa has resulted in four additional treatment rooms. “We now have a total of 17 treatment rooms, as well as a couples’ room. As a result of this expansion, we have taken on more therapists to meet the high client demand,” she explains.
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SPA AT A GLANCE Owner: Hospitality Property Fund (HPF)
Kusel also notes that the gym at the Arabella Hotel & Spa was upgraded this year. “This upgrade correlates to the latest trends in fitness centres, such as the cardiovascular machine with personal viewing and television features, elliptical machines, etc.” When asked how the Arabella Spa, winner of the 2014 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Award for Best Hotel Spa, differentiates itself in the local and African spa markets, Kusel responds: “The serenity and ambience of the spa offers an oasis of tranquility, enhancing the flow of energy, bringing mind, body and soul in harmony. The passion of our team introduces the guest to a journey of rejuvenation and good health.” She reveals that the most popular brands at the Arabella Spa are Babor, Six Sensational Skincare, Spalicious,
Management: African Pride Hotels Group Opened: August 2001 Size: 1 250m2 Number of treatment rooms: 17 and 1 couples’ room Number of permanent therapists: 12 Hydro facilities: Rasul chamber, indoor heated hydro pool, steam rooms, saunas, cold stream showers
Mama Mio, OPI and Lilian Terry, while the most requested treatment is the full body massage.
Signature treatment The Arabella Spa is known for its African Rain Forest Treatment, a world first. Inspired by the African rains, this is a two-hour sensory water and steam treatment that was created exclusively for the spa, using African products. PB
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
business tips
20
The subtle art of prescription Retail sales should tie in directly with the business strategy and planning of any spa or salon, writes Francisco Garcia.
F
or a day spa or a salon, with quite a substantial amount of return clients, retail sales should account for about 40% of total turnover, whereas 30% is a good ratio for a resort hotel spa or destination spa. Therapists know in advance how their bookings look for the next day, so they should plan their retail sales the day before a client arrives for their appointment. The cornerstone of selling retail is consultation. This assists in creating a conversation (ie. opening the sale), which, in turn, leads to the therapist making a recommendation and the client re-booking another appointment. The therapist can then formulate an ideal home care regime for the client.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
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business tips
21
Consultation I cannot stress enough the importance of the consultation process and the power that it has. Pre-printed consultation cards must be available for each client to complete just before their treatment. Ideally the therapist needs to read the client card in full prior to seeing the client. The therapist should then sit down with the client at eye level and engage in a formal two-minute consultation, so as to develop a rapport and thus open the sale. There is a lot of psychology and preparation involved in a proper consultation. Some therapists spend five full minutes doing a correct and thorough consultation; they draw the physiognomy of the muscle or skin on the back of the consultation card for the client to understand exactly what There is a lot they are going to do. A study has been of psychology done on the specific way and preparation to sit the client – with their back facing the involved treatment room door to in a proper ensure that they focus consultation. only on the therapist with no distractions. The Some therapists study also shows how spend five to sit the client back full minutes up after the treatment doing a correct is finished; how to put slippers/shoes on and thorough when doing the retail consultation. recommendation at the end of the treatment; and how therapists can be trained to ask questions so that clients are compelled to reply ‘Yes’. During the consultation the therapist must confirm the treatment/s to be done and refer to at least one item on the card. Make sure you write down what the client says and ask: What is your main concern? Where is your main concern? Why is there a concern there? And the most powerful question is: WHEN do you want to see results? Remember that rapport is the most important step to ensure a sale and client loyalty.
Recommendation The next stage is the all-important recommendation – your suggestion of what should be done. You could say something like: ‘Try to have a facial more often’. Following the recommendation comes the prescription – this is the written instruction (prescription sheet) officially telling someone what they need and how to use it. R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
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Here is a step-by-step guide for the therapist: 1. Plan your month ahead;
2. Set tough personal goals;
3. Plan your treatment upgrades and your retail for the day;
4. Plan each client that you will see for the day; 5. Set goals for every single client you will see.
In terms of the actual sale, focus on what your client What not to forget needs and what makes your client happy. Very often When selling retail use the power of smell and therapists HARD SELL instead of HEART SELL. As texture. Sell the reasons why your client can’t live therapists are paid commission on the retail products without the products. they sell, they sometimes think, ‘What products can I sell Makes sure you rebook your client’s next to help me get closer to my retail target?’ instead appointment and make bookings as far in of ‘Which products does this client need advance as you can. Call them a maximum specifically?’ You need to ensure that of one week later and try to rebook your client buys the product from you them. Always offer two and not from someone else. For a resort hotel spa, find out options for home care: Identify wants, needs, and how long the client’s stay is and, objectives. Talk less and listen more. Option 1 is the biggest depending on the length, when Ask relevant questions. Create the the client comes for a massage quantity of the product need and suggest a solution in a they could actually rebook – ‘the ideal purchase’, way that they have never thought another massage for the next day. about before. For instance, you while Option 2 is the Too often therapists are obsessed could say: ‘Think of how much with removing knots in the back, smaller size – ‘the one money you spend on coffee each which can result in bruising the you can’t be day? Now, I can guarantee you that muscle. Rather do as much as this product will last you three months without’. you can without bruising and try to and the cost per application is a quarter rebook your client for another massage. of what you spend in coffee per day.’ Before you finish the treatment ensure your Strategy client is in a comfortable position so that he/she can give Therapists need to make a conscious effort to plan you her full attention. Tell the client that the treatment and strategise their sales in advance to reach their is not finished yet and that you are going to get them a targets. A proper analysis and evaluation of their glass of water and then when you return, you will discuss daily performance must take place so they can adapt their treatment recommendation. their sales technique or approach. Always offer two options for home care: Option 1 is Spa managers should assist their teams in starting the biggest quantity of the product – ‘the ideal purchase’, this process, but the rest is up to the therapists. while Option 2 is the smaller size – ‘the one you can’t be Following a step by step guide is recommended. without’. Remember – the therapist is in charge of their pay Mention the product’s name, price, size, what it cheque. The amount of commission they generate does and add a couple of ingredients. It is here where is in their hands alone. They have to believe in the the therapist needs to make sure she adapts her sales process, and only they can make it happen. PB pitch to the client’s personality. Hand the client the prescription form with the products listed on it only at the very end of the treatment, before the client is about Francisco Garcia is the group spa operations to walk out of the room, or tell them you will leave the director of Amani Spas and has been in the copy of the prescription inside the bag with the products industry since 2008. He was formerly spa director of Arabella Hotel and Spa, and, recommended. prior to that, spa manager of Mount Grace And ask the magic questions: ’Would you like to take Country House. Email: fran@amanispas.co.za the products? Can I put these in a bag for you?’
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
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business tips
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East meets West – what’s new? Keen to compare the business of beauty in the East to that in South Africa, Debbie Merdjan attended the recent Cosmoprof Hong Kong trade show.
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isiting Cosmoprof Hong Kong was everything I hoped it would It was be – exciting, stimulating and a intriguing to see great learning experience. I was excited to check that the beauty out what was new for our industry. It was market in the East intriguing to see that the beauty market in mainly supports the East mainly supports French and English cosmetic brands, rather than dominating French and English with its own products, as is done in so many cosmetic other industries. brands. One of the East’s cutting-edge brands that equipment. There are so many options for did make big news was the product called Rice laser, slimming and rejuvenation machines Force. Derived purely from rice, it focuses on natural available there. Great machines, but the good fermentation technology. news is that we have lots of them in South Africa. The new A new French brand that caught my eye, Gemology, I Beauty device with a sound vibration spatula, sequential was founded by Chrystelle Lannoy. The concept is ultrasound, and tripolar radio-frequency is a technological based on the cosmetic properties of 19 precious and and treatment ingenuity with absolutely amazing results. semi-precious minerals. It uses diamonds, jade and On the spa front the Four Seasons, Landmark, Peninsula sapphires, among others, and, through a chemical and the Ritz Carlton wowed me. But I also realised how process, transforms them into trace minerals, which are lucky we are in South Africa – our spa treatments are just brilliant for the skin. inexpensive in comparison, at almost a third of the price. Micro needling was represented by many companies To end my stay, I had a two-hour spa treatment starting and is big business today. The needles pierce the skin, at 9.30 pm. They work long hours in Hong Kong! The creating a natural healing and rejuvenating effect. If standard and experience was exceptional. I felt like I had you prefer something more commercial, there were gone to heaven and loved the idea of a night treatment, tons of sonic brush cleansing units and a wide range of where I could roll into bed in my hotel and carry on with inexpensive vibrating facial massage apparatus. These that heavenly sensation. are less invasive and much more affordable. Pure deliciousness. Especially after all the walking I did Lash extensions are still very popular – lashes with at Cosmoprof. Zzzzzz…PB diamonds, glitter and even flowers! And then there were stalls and stalls of body décor. Stick-on tattoos are huge – funky or sophisticated, ranging from glow-in-the-dark, to glitter, to traditional Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin dragons. They’re a great idea, pain-free and very hip. care training. She has been in the industry Nail art has been around for a while, with a multitude since 1982 and started Camelot International of ranges of jewels, stickers and even 3D nail options. Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and It’s wild, it’s big and it’s beautiful. opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. The East does dominate in one area, and that is with
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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The EU classification maze Continuing our series on the challenges of entering the EU market, this time Tadej Feregotto looks at which products are classified as cosmetics in the EU.
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he term ‘cosmetic products’ covers a wide range of products, but not every product that we may consider to be a cosmetic in everyday life would actually be classified as a cosmetic product in the EU. So, would your product be classified as a cosmetic product in the EU? In order to provide a positive answer to this question, your product has to fulfil certain criteria. According to the current cosmetics legislation in the EU (regulation 1223/2009), the product has to be a substance or a mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to clean them, perfume them, change their appearance, protect them, keep them in good condition or correct body odours. Therefore, products that may seem to be cosmetics, like nail wraps, are not cosmetics even though they are placed in contact with the external parts of the human body and their primary function is to change the appearance of nails, but they wouldn’t be considered a substance or a mixture. Similarly, for
example, a comb or a tooth brush are not cosmetics. Since products have to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, any product intended to be ingested, inhaled, injected or implanted into the human body would also not be considered a cosmetic product in the EU. Breast implants, therefore, are not cosmetics, even though their primary function is also to change appearance.
Claims Classification of the product often depends on the claims which the manufacturer makes for that product. This is especially the case with the so-called borderline products, where products have characteristics of more than one product category, and it is therefore difficult to classify them. Cosmetic products can be borderline with medical devices, pharmaceuticals, biocides, toys etc. As explained above, cosmetic products should have the function of exclusively or mainly cleaning, perfuming, changing appearance,
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
protecting, keeping in good condition or correcting body odours. The intended function does, among other things, not include products presented as having properties for treating or preventing disease in human beings. Therefore mentioning, or visually presenting, any diseases on cosmetic product labels is not allowed. Neither is using words or phrases which present a medicinal intent, such as: cures, heals, treats, restores, prevents, clears, protects against disease, helps control the symptoms of, traditionally used for treatment of, strengthens the immune system etc. PB
Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Durban’s top beauty days
1&2
MARCH 2015
In its exciting new time slot of 1 and 2 March, the 2015 Professional Beauty Durban Show, which takes place at the ICC, will showcase a wealth of exciting new products and innovations. APS will demonstrate how offering a Studex ear-piercing service (for belly, nose and ear) can increase income and foot traffic into salons. Discover Babor’s latest spa concept for your professional beauty business. Find out why over 150 partners have already opened a Babor Beauty Spa, and what makes them so profitable. Beauty by Nature – Moyou Africa offers high-quality, long-lasting nail designs and nail decorations. Best Lasers is proudly the sole Southern African distributor of Alma Lasers, a global developer, manufacturer and provider of laser, light-based, radiofrequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and medical applications.
ESP’s latest spa and salon software includes major enhancements to the loyalty system, multi-branch integration with enterprise control, group gift vouchers, Web browser access (which also offers access via smart phones and tablets), new reports and new Business Intelligence. Sold to over 20 countries, eyeSlices is an award-winning, relaxing, reusable eye treatment pad that targets puffiness, dark circles, tiredness, red eyes and anti-ageing in just five minutes.
Bio Sculpture Gel, inventor of the world’s first soakoff gel and first colour gel, continues to create colour ranges and exclusive manicure, pedicure and spa products, combined with innovative accessories.
Graftobian HD Professional Make-up will exhibit at the show for the first time. Products include: professional cosmetics, fantasy make-up, airbrush make-up, Halloween makeup, theatrical make-up and Moulage make-up.
BTL Industries designs and manufactures nonsurgical machines for fat-dissolving, skin-tightening, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL treatments.
Gwenya Salon Organics is an allnew natural range of affordable, bulk body treatment products, from scrubs to massage and masks.
Primary ingredients of Bo-D-VINE products are Shea butter, ginseng root and activated charcoal.
Hitech Lasers will exhibit the Lumenis M22 Multi-application Platform (IPL, Nd:YAG, Q-switched Nd:YAG and ResurFX), as well as the LightSheer Diode pain-free hair removal laser. Three LightSheer Diode Lasers are offered in South Africa: LightSheer Duet, Desire and Infinity. A 3-year service plan is offered on all Lumenis products.
Creative Glamour will launch new foundations, powders, gel eyeliners and mascara and offer highquality, affordable brushes and accessories. The EGN Shellac original vitamin-infused UV/LED soak off 1 & 3 step gel is available in 426 trendsetting fashion forward colours – no formaldehyde, no DBP and no toluene.
Kryolan will offer a 20% discount off all products. Lamprobe Come and witness instantly remove many different types of lesions/blemishes at its stand.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
29 Lay’s Beauty will launch its hair treatment oil (at a very affordable price) and a treatment oil for muscle pain and arthritic conditions. There are show specials on Lay’s tissue oil spray, essentials oils, Tantra-licious massage oils, carrier oils, creams and soaps. Lilian Terry International – creator of homeopathic aromatherapy – will offer a 10%-off show special and showcase its LT FlexyCups, facial gels, toners and massage oil complexes. Make-Up Designory (MUD) will exhibit at Professional Beauty Durban for the first time since its launch in South Africa. Cost-effective and award-winning Viora body-sculpting and skin-rejuvenation systems will be on offer at the Medilase stand. The Viora V30 multi-application platform with four hand pieces, including Fractional RF skin rejuvenation for all skin types, IPL, skin-tightening, RF and Nd: YAG, will be showcased. Nailsforu will offer massive discounts on the full range of the award-winning nailsforu product range and introduce a polish range.
Nature’s Essence will launch the Papaya range, called TBC by Natures. Pure Smile is the only 100% natural teethwhitening supplier in South Africa and will offer a show special. Rainbow Bath and Beauty will exhibit natural, Beauty without Cruelty-endorsed products, including natural soy massage candles, aromatherapy bath salts, salt scrubs and lip balms. RégimA's cutting-edge range, The Zone, utilises combinations of supremely advanced technology for maximum anti-ageing. The Zone Power Peels combine six natural acids. Launching in KZN at Professional Beauty Durban, Skinny Tan is a natural self-tanning lotion that immediately reduces the visual effects of cellulite. SkinTECH will launch Enerpeel Chemical Peels and Akni Care lotion and cream from Italy. PB
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The phenomenon of Black
skin revision
As far back as the 1980s, when I was researching Black skin treatments in Chicago, I became aware of many factors that went far beyond mere pigmentation, writes DannĂŠ Montague-King.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
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igmentation is the least of the differences between Black and Caucasian skins, Black skin having a superior cell structure and defence mechanism. In addition, Black skin cells proliferate at a more rapid rate than Caucasian skin cells. This is why when you place a 50-year-old White lady and Black lady side by side, the latter lady will appear years younger, with very few lines and wrinkles as compared to the other woman. In the USA there is an amusing term – ‘Black don’t crack’ – tossed around by the community. I was quite surprised to hear this same term used in South Africa during a recent visit, and it’s true! This rapid proliferation of cells has one downside: it makes skin more susceptible to keloid scars, a disorder very common to Black skin. Rete pegs, the conduits of nutrients to the underlying basal cells, are also stronger and somewhat more numerous than those in Caucasian and other ethnicities. Indian skin, for example, is fairly fragile. The myth that deeper-toned Indian skin should be treated the same as Black skin has led to many problems for skin therapists and dermatologists.
Pigment I believe it is totally false that Black skin has more melanocytes than any other skin colour. The number of melanin cells is approximately the same for all races, but the pigmentation inside the melanin cells is packaged differently. Imagine melanin cells to look like jelly beans. Inside the Asian jelly bean the actual pigmentation, manufactured by the golgi apparatus organelle, would be about 75% of the bean, with a lot of natural beta carotene in it, which accounts for the ‘gold’ or ‘yellow’ undertone of people from Asia. Caucasian skin’s jelly beans may contain about 66% of the pigmentation but Black skin’s jelly beans would be full of pigmentation to the border of the bean. Distribution of the melanin cells over the body is also quite different; Caucasian people’s melanin is displayed in the ‘sub-epidermis’ area, while Black people’s melanin is distributed copiously on the entire epidermal surface and even down into the pores. This creates a highly reflective surface that bounces away much of the harmful radiation from constant sun. One might think that with all of these superior ‘positives’ Black skin could survive anything, including skincare products for general use by all ethnicities. WRONG! Most Black clients will know what it means to get ‘the ashy’s’ after using general use products. This is a redundant group of cells – excess corneum that builds up leaving the skin dull with a faint R
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african skin
32 greyish over-tone. Often misconstrued as ‘dry skin,’ it is actually only very fast cell proliferation that is still attached to the underlying corneum barrier.
Treating black skin The first step is a proper cleanser. It should soften the excess cuticle barrier but not strip the skin of natural sebaceous oils that represent one half of Nature’s natural moisturiser, the acid mantle. Contrary to popular belief, most Black skin is not excessively oily or lipid-rich. The ‘shine’ seen on persons with deeper skin tones is merely a reflection of light, not excess oils. Herbal-based liquid cleansers are best. There are many ‘soap’ plants, such as white oak bark, which are deep-cleansing without being sebumstripping. These types of herbs (Burdock is another) help to soften up the dead cells with a natural, astringent surfactant action. Enzyme-based masques, professionally applied, totally remove the excess cuticle, especially in the case of pseudofollicultis (razor bumps) suffered by many Black males. Due to Black hair being oval in configuration, the ends of the hair are flat and sharp. Think of the excess cuticle as being rather like shingles on a roof as viewed under a microscope. The sharp hair catches under these ‘shingles’ and is re-directed back down into the living tissue, causing it to become irritated and inflamed. The new baby cells in that area perceive this as an ‘unnatural’ situation and try to encapsulate the problem by forming new cells around it – forming a type of ‘granuloma’ that results in a visible and uncomfortable bump on the surface of the epidermis. Men with kinky textured hair are afraid to shave this area with a normal razor, which cuts through the bump and results in bleeding, scabbing and hyperpigmentation. Regular enzyme treatments totally alleviate this problem. On female clients this type of treatment not only removes all the ‘ashy’s’ but brightens the skin totally, bringing out its even tone while lifting away unsightly dark areas around the
mouth, across the forehead and under the eyes. Follow-up and daily products should include natural moisturising with a herbal spray, a highly fractionated oil blend that resembles sebum as closely as possible (including a blend of tocopherols and other anti-oxidants) and crèmes that have an acidic base as opposed to alkaline. Alkaline crèmes and soaps above pH5.3 dull the skin and compound the ashy appearance. Fermented Contrary to orange peel oil in popular belief, a transepidermal crème base is most Black skin excellent at is not excessively brightening up deeper skin oily or tones.
The same mind set was also predominant in the USA back in the 1950s, but when the lipid-rich. racial, social and economic revolutions took place, all of this changed. Pigmentation Nowadays African-Americans are proud of the tones they were born is the least of the with – whether it be the lightest café differences between au lait or the deepest ebony. People glory in a rainbow of rich browns Black and Caucasian in all the undertones, be they red, skins, Black skin yellow, gold or even olive. What they having a superior cell do want is for these wonderful tones to be even and smooth. And bright, structure and defence not white. mechanism. In South Africa a Caucasian beauty therapist untrained in the science and unique qualities of Black skin will not be a trusted first. This will change as more training is made available. Mental attitude I appeal to all Black therapists, During my early years of research in dermatologists and even general South Africa on Black skins, dealing practitioners and nurses to seek out with problems of acne (teen and adult specialised training in this field – and onset varieties), hyperpigmentation realise that it is a specialised field. PB and the hydroquinone poisoning disease, ochronosis, I discovered the mind set of ‘whiter skin is better skin’ to be rampant in the Black community. Danné Montague-King has won international recognition and This gave an open door to all kinds endorsement by the medical of quacks, unscrupulous pharmacists profession for pioneering and ‘beauty experts’ to sell people a skin rejuvenation system hideous concoctions with very high that recognises the importance of offering percentages of hydroquinone and skin cells a chemistry they even bird guano with household recognise. He is founder bleach! I have seen skin so suppurated of the DMK skincare with infection that cancer was one empire. stop away.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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Treating darker hues For therapists performing treatments on African skin, there is a wide range of products for clients with darker skin types to choose from.
A
mong the main concerns of African skin are lack of radiance, uneven skin tone, pigmentation, blemishes and dark circles under the eyes. Zone Pigment Perfector, the new antipigmentation treatment from RégimA, draws on the individual strengths of multiple skin-lightening actives. Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “This product combines Lumiskin, the latest in proprietary skin-lightening actives, together with Sophora root extract, the enhanced lightening action of black tea extract and the latest in stabilised Vitamin C technology for unparalleled skin-lightening power. “Added to this, kiwi fruit extract has been found to be particularly beneficial for under-eye dark circles. Because African skins are more prone to keloid scarring, it is important that a product
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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provides anti-glycation to prevent hardening of elastin and collagen fibres. This product is safe even for the upper and under eye area.” Also from RégimA, Zone Scar Repair Forté is a unique super-strength serum which is recommended for prevention and treatment of keloid scarring, helping active acne and improving acne scarring. “Actives, at their maximum strength, accelerate the healing process, ensuring more rapid scar maturation, with balanced collagen synthesis, preventing ugly hypertrophic and keloid scar formation, achieving the very best, most aesthetically pleasing end result. This product further acts on older hypertrophic and keloid scars (ugly, raised scars), promoting their maturation, helping flatten, reducing pain and improving function,” explains Faucitt. RégimA’s in-salon treatment – Zone Power Peel – combines six powerful natural fruit acids including peach, raspberry and apple, which have a lightening effect superior to hydroquinone with 100% safety. With the addition of healing plants, renowned for essential anti-inflammatory and antioxidant action, this peel offers a therapeutic action.
Offer more with multiple technologies Viora’s V30 Platform can Revolutionize Your Aesthetic Practice By delivering Nd:Yag laser, IPL and proprietary CORE™, SVC™ & fractional RF technologies via interchangeable hand pieces, the V30 Platform gives you the flexibility to grow your business at your own pace. Treat the most requested aesthetic procedures with one safe and clinically proven effective device.
Radiance Phytomer has developed the White Brightening Radiance Treatment to reveal the radiance of the complexion and diminish dark spots through its main active ingredients of sea lily, dictyopteris and Vitamin C. This treatment targets uneven skin tone, dark spots due to skin ageing, sun exposure or hormonal imbalances, as well as dull complexion. It reduces skin pigmentation for a more translucent and radiant skin. The complete treatment consists of a one-hour facial, which includes a double exfoliation and a plasticising mousse mask, followed by a white lamination serum and cream to effectively boost radiance and target dark spots.
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
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Email: medilase@mweb.co.za | Tel: 012 349 1250 | www.medilase.com
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extra and nature’s most potent antioxidants to fight free radicals and the causes of skin ageing. This lightweight serum is designed specifically for the delicate eye area to help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It reduces dark circles and puffiness and has a tightening effect.
Homeopathic aromatherapy Lilian Terry International’s Aftersun is not only great for repairing sun-damaged skin – addressing symptoms such as premature ageing, excessive dryness and high sensitivity to solar radiation – but is also specially formulated to both treat and prevent hyperpigmentation. Studies done in Kiev, Ukraine, also showed that Aftersun stimulates a remarkable improvement in metabolic, hormonal and defensive activities of the skin when applied on a daily basis. Elastoderma – another complex from Lilian Terry International – contains homeopathic remedies and essential oils that assist with repairing damaged skin due to stretching, scarring or keloids, which occurs a lot with African skins. Elastoderma promotes collagen production so it also works wonderfully to combat the signs of ageing as it tones up the skin and acts on deeper wrinkles. Aftersun and Elastoderma are homeopathic aromatherapy massage oils, containing carrier and essential oils combined with specific homeopathic remedies. They are completely natural and self-regulatory and don’t affect the action of any medication the person might be on.
on melanogenesis. SkinLite can be used on all skin types and ethnicities. Also from DermaFix, MD Prescriptives Intensive Scar Repair is a rich emollient combining three copper peptides with a series of clinically proven active dermaceutical ingredients that boost your natural production of both collagen and elastin. It is a soothing healing formulation for optimised results after laser resurfacing, dermabrasion, chemical peels and any advanced treatments.
Universal day cream Luminescence Cream from Anesi Beauté is a corrective treatment cream that evens skin tone, reduces the synthesis of melanin and lightens pigmented areas, while leaving the skin soft and moisturised.
Physician-strength DermaFix MD Prescriptives SkinLite physician-strength formula visibly diminishes hyperpigmentation and evens out skin tone. This targeted treatment contains a unique tripleaction formula which works by inhibiting the tyrosinase activity and having inhibitory effects
“Many people are unaware of the sensitivity of African skins not only to the sun, but also to certain active ingredients and in-salon treatments. Therefore the therapist needs to be very cautious when it comes to treating darker skins, as they could worsen the condition or cause hyperor hypo-pigmentation in certain cases.” Dr Robert Gobac
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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In tests, the natural ingredients in lumablanc yielded greater results than hydroquinone at four weeks. Key ingredients are undaria licorice and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. They inhibit tyrosinase and prevent dopaguinone oxidation, as well as fading brown patches. This cream evens the tone and texture of the skin, while illuminating the face and preventing hyperpigmentation. In addition it stimulates the skin regeneration and synthesis of collagen. R
It can be used as a universal day cream together with any of the Anesi Beauté serums, especially Aqua Vital Serum.
Luminosity Pevonia’s lumblanc is an intensive solution for hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This is a dynamic complex of highly active whitening and lightening agents. Fused together into a state-of-the-art microsphere, this Pevonia-proprietory formula enters the skin effortlessly, delivering the actives directly to the target areas.
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
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african skin
38
Sensitivity According to Dr Robert Gobac of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals, many people are unaware of the sensitivity of African skins not only to the sun, but also to certain active ingredients and insalon treatments. “Therefore the therapist needs to be very cautious when it comes to treating darker skins, as they could worsen the condition or cause hyper- or hypo-pigmentation in certain cases,” says Dr Gobac. He recommends Dr Gobac Lighten, a new-generation skin-lightening product, developed to target unwanted pigmentation. It contains a botanical extract high in arbutin, a known skin-lightening agent, as well as botanical extracts of lemon peel and tilia cordata, better known as small-leaved lime, which not only reduce pigmentation but also have a strong anti-inflammatory effect on the skin. This treatment is highly effective and safe to use in the long term, as well as during pregnancy. Dr Gobac Sunscreen SPF25 is a lightweight, non-toxic sun protection cream that has been scientifically formulated for safe use, even on babies’ delicate skin. It does not contain any of the toxic organic chemicals that have been known to cause irritation to the skin. Instead it contains the latest ‘buzz’ ingredient – Zinc Clear – along with a number of potent agents to effectively destroy
and eliminate free radicals in the skin. Ingredients such as Vitamin C, brown algae extract, and ozone protection substances, have also been included to reduce oedema (swelling) induced by sun exposure. This product protects against UVA and UVB at a critical wavelength of 370nm – a requirement set forth by The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (COLIPA).
‘Master ingredient’ A new active ingredient, O.D.A.white, has been selected as the ‘master ingredient’ in Ericson Laboratoire’s lightening treatment. Another innovative active ingredient, Lumiskin, has been integrated in the company’s cosmetic formulas. It is designed to slow down the melanogenesis process, and, therefore, slow down pigmentation. The experts at Ericson Laboratoire say that many cosmetic products use a traditional method which works on the upper layers of the skin. They continue: “The innovation of our Perfection-White Expertise Treatment lies in the fact that we go back as far as possible in the biological pigmentation chain by acting at two levels. Firstly, we modify the genetic action prior to the pigmentation process, and, secondly, we re-route the cellular messengers which produce pigments.”
Coverage The Deep Brown Corrector from MUD (Make-Up Designory) is creamy in texture and pigment-rich, designed to conceal and camouflage skin imperfections. This Corrector can be blended with MUD’s Cream Foundations for flawless, full coverage. It is perfect for use on medium-dark to very dark skin tones to even out unwanted dark areas.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
african skin
39
LightSheer
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Treats skin types 1 - 6 Upgradable and portable
LightSheer ® DUET™
Aesthetic treatments Comfort and confidence are two of the most important principles with a light-based aesthetic treatment, particularly in the treatment of darker skin types (type IV to VI). Fortunately, advances in the past decade have given rise to a range of devices that can be safely used on African skin. Longer wavelength lasers, such as the 810nm Diode and 1064nm Nd:YAG, fractional lasers and radiofrequency devices have all been used safely for pigmentary abnormalities, resurfacing and skin tightening in African skin, as well as hair removal. Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers points out that only two light-based technologies for hair reduction in darker skin types are FDA-approved: the long-pulsed Diode (810nm) and Nd:YAG (1064nm) lasers. “These two types of lasers have longer wavelengths and extended pulse durations and when combined with active epidermal cooling, these lasers provide the greatest efficacy with the lowest side-effect profile in treating skin phototypes IV to VI,” she says. Hitech Lasers has two Diode lasers – the LightSheer Desire and LightSheer Duet, as well as the LightSheer Infinity, a dual wavelength laser which combines the two safe technologies (diode and Nd:YAG) in one system. All three hair removal lasers are manufactured by Lumenis and are clinically tested for safety, efficacy and comfort in the removal of hair in dark skin types. LightSheer Desire is a table top 805nm Diode Laser for permanent hair reduction. According to Dr Elliot Battle, an Afro-American Dermatologist, the Nd:YAG, which emits a wavelength of 1064nm, has been proven to be the safest to treat the darkest skin types. This type of laser is able to travel deep below the skin’s surface to reach the melanin in the hair follicle without damaging the skin’s superficial layer. The Nd:YAG is considered by many in the industry to be the gold standard for performing laser hair removal on Fitzpatrick skin types V–VI. PB
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
No Anaestetics and Gels
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treatment review – body contouring
41
One, two, three – go! Yolanda Knott opts for the Juliette Armand Elements Triple Action Therapy body contouring treatment to rid her thighs of that stubborn cellulite that even the most rigorous exercise won’t budge.
I
’d heard of Juliette Armand as being a premium skincare brand, and was interested to test the effectiveness of their bodycontouring range. My Elements Triple Action treatment was performed by Meghan Less, training manager at Poise Brands, the exclusive distributor for Juliette Armand in South Africa. “As its name suggests, this is a triple action body treatment for slimming, cellulite prevention and firming,” said Less. “It helps to increase circulation “This and encourage lipolysis, a fatburning process, thereby treatment allowing the skin to regain its is a vasodilator – normal shape and elasticity.” the combination of The first stage of the treatment was the detoxifying heat and mud helps peel, containing both to get rid of glycolic and lactic acids. Less cellulite.” applied the Juliette Armand Detoxifying Peeling Gel, while with a warming Meghan Less explaining that this would remove blanket. dead skin cells to ensure maximum “This treatment is a efficacy of the treatment to follow. The vasodilator – the combination peel was left on for four minutes and of heat and mud helps to get rid of my legs began to feel warm. cellulite,” commented Less. “You’re experiencing what is known Fifteen minutes later, Less removed as hyperaemia – increased blood flow the mask with tepid water and applied to the treated area,” noted Less. the 10% Caffeine & Artichoke Serum. Next, without removing the peel, Artichoke increases fat burning, Less applied Celluslim Slim onto my while caffeine is an effective delivery thighs, with a massaging action. mechanism. Less massaged my thighs She then mixed some Thermoslim with a ‘rolling’ motion. As she rolled Gel together with the Celluslim Mud I could actually feel the positive Mask, which comprises mud from the effect on my cellulite. This serum is Dead Sea, as well as seaweed. This compatible with aesthetic devices was applied to my thighs. Following such as ionizers, ultrasound and radioapplication, each thigh was wrapped frequency. in nylon and my lower half covered The treatment concluded with the
online at www.probeauty.co.za
application of the Triple Action Gel. Less warned me that my legs would be red for about 20 minutes after the treatment, which turned out to be the case. As I got dressed I could definitely see a difference in the texture of the skin – it was much smoother, almost as if Less had ironed out the bumps. Overall the treatment is a pleasant experience – there is no scrubbing and no burning sensation. A course of 12 treatments is recommended. For home care I bought the Celluslim Serum, the 10% Caffeine and Artichoke Serum and the Triple Action Gel. PB
Contact: Poise Brands 011 033 0500
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
treatment review – body contouring
42
The power of the ampoule Melinda Alevras ‘feels the heat’, so to speak, while experiencing the Anesi Haute Performance Cellulite Rebelle Treatment.
I
’d recently experienced some weight gain due to a hormonal imbalance, and was keen to have a body-contouring treatment to firm up. My treatment took place at the Johannesburg offices of Anesi’s South African distributor, Exclusive Beauty Solutions (EBS). Anesi brand and education ambassador Yolandi Mestre told me that Anesi’s well-known body range, Parafango, has been around for a long time, and is a combination of Dead Sea mud and warm paraffin. “Anesi recently launched its new body treatment – the Haute Performance Cellulite Rebelle Treatment – in Europe. We’ve now tried and tested the treatment and are happy to bring it into South Africa,” explained Mestre. This thermal body-contouring treatment was specially formulated to reduce stubborn cellulite. It is a threestage treatment comprising a body exfoliation, the application of a powerful ampoule with active ingredients in rollon form, and a finishing cream.
Mestre applied the Cremfoliant to my lower body; this is a dry body exfoliator made up of peach grains which eliminate dead skin cells. Cremfoliant also contains Vitamin C as well as folic acid for its anti-oxidant properties. This exfoliant needs no rinsing and smoothes the skin to allow for deep penetration of the ampoule. Said Mestre: “I’m now going to apply the Concentre Chauffant Cellulite Rebelle ampoule. This has a thermal effect so the treated area will feel hot. The three active ingredients are Sensihot, which activates circulation, while Regu-shape diminishes fat accumulation and stimulates lipid destriction. Regu-slim dramatically reduces fat tissue.” Mestre applied the roll-on ampoule over the area and then wrapped it in Anesi’s Osmotic Film and covered me with a blanket. This was left on for 20 minutes and I could definitely feel a growing sensation of heat. In the meantime Mestre talked about pricing. “Body treatments are generally expensive, so if you can come in with a cost-effective
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
treatment then you will capture the main market share. The cost per treatment to the salon is very low, so salon-owners should be able to come up with a really attractive price for the client. Salons can combine this treatment with Parafango for quicker results.” To finish off the treatment Mestre applied the Crème Objectif Minceur, a thermal active cream, and performed a lymph drainage massage. This product contains guarana, caffeine, L-Carnitine and retinol chromospheres. For home care Mestre recommended daily use of this product as well as Crème Objectif Fermeté to firm up the skin. I could definitely see a difference in skin tone after just one treatment and was keen to embark on a course of treatments. PB
Contact: Anesi 011 791 4027
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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treatment review – body contouring
44
All primed to ‘shape’ up Having experienced the Syneron VelaShape II body contouring treatment exactly a year ago, Joanna Sterkowicz was keen to discover the technological advancements of its successor, the VelaShape III.
W
hen I arrived at Radiant Healthcare, a Syneron distributor in Randpark Ridge, I asked clinical trainer Danelle Landman about the main differences between the VelaShape II and the VelaShape III. “Basically the VelaShape III has a sophisticated closed-loop RF (radiofrequency) feedback mechanism and a built-in temperature sensor for a precise treatment with increased patient comfort and safety. The higher RF power output will ensure that the client requires fewer sessions.” Like its predecessor, the VelaShape III is powered by Syneron’s elos technology and combines IR (infrared), bi-polar RF, pulsed vacuum and mechanical rollers. The device heats the tissue up to a depth of between 3mm and 15mm. Landman explained: “It is the combination of these technologies that causes deep heating of the fat cells (adipocytes), their surrounding connective fibrous septae and the underlying dermal collagen fibres. “The optimal design of the electrodes and the concurrent application of vacuum allows for deeper and faster heat penetration. In turn, this promotes an increase in circulation, lymphatic drainage, cellular metabolism and collagen depositing. It also stimulates fibroblast activity and remodels the extracellular matrix.”
Landman commenced the treatment on the back of my celluliteridden thighs, using the VelaShape III’s cellulite applicator. I was delighted to discover that the vacuum and the roller action was a lot more gentle than the VelaShape II, where I actually had to ask the operator to reduce the intensity of the treatment, due to my low level of tolerance. Conversely, during the VelaShape III treatment, I nearly dozed off. Landman commented: “The treatment protocol with the new machine is completely different to the VelaShape II, in that we perform vertical and horizontal ‘stacking’ for body contouring, to prevent the heat from building up too quickly in one spot, as well as a different ‘gliding technique’ on cellulite. ”
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
The recommended duration of treatment for each anatomical area is 15 minutes. Contraindications are varicose veins, pregnancy and lactation, pace-makers, diabetes, epilepsy, thrombosis and open cuts. Unique to the Velashape III (and the industry) is the ‘Vela-Once’ treatment. This is a totally new treatment for body contouring and circumference reduction, and requires only one ‘long’ single treatment with very effective results. The VelaShape III won the trophy for the best Non-Invasive Body Shaping Device at the 2013 Anti-Ageing Medicine European Congress in Paris. PB
Contact: Radiant Healthcare 011 794-8252/3
online at www.probeauty.co.za
treatment review – body contouring
46
Ultrasound and RF to the fore Belinda Wewege experiences a non-invasive, pain-free body-contouring treatment courtesy of Alma Lasers’ latest device, the Accent Ultra V.
F
ollowing a foodfilled Christmas holiday I was looking to reduce the circumference of my abdomen and thighs. Best Lasers, the South African distributor of the Accent Ultra V selective lipolysis and body contouring work station, arranged for my treatment at the Kloof Laser Clinic in Brooklyn, Pretoria. Therapist Beauty Dlamini explained that this would be a three-part treatment, combining the Accent Ultra’s V’s ultrasound technology, which uses Shear waves to break down the fat cells, together with its UniForm module. This targets cellulite with a combination of Alma Lasers’ RF UniPolar technology, in parallel with a mechanical lymphatic drainage technology. “In addition, Best Lasers always advises us to end this treatment with a session of BiPolar RF for skin-tightening,” said Dlamini. She commenced the treatment by rubbing Vaseline on the left side of my abdomen and my left thigh as a conductive medium in preparation for the Accent Ultra V’s Ultra module, for the ultrasound phase of the treatment. Dlamini continued: “The ultrasound is made up of a ‘cold mode,’ which targets the fat cells, while the ‘hot mode’ compression
waves thermally enhance the process. These two modes help to destroy fat cells. “With the Accent Ultra V you only work on the areas of the body with fatty pockets. The machine is capable of
going up to 300 watts, while most other machines on the market only go up to between 50 and 70 watts.” The ultrasound felt so smooth and relaxing that I almost fell asleep during the treatment. Dlamini then applied some almond seed oil onto the treatment area before applying the UniForm hand piece. As this is RF technology it does feel hot on the skin, but the heat is quite bearable and in no way uncomfortable. The UniForm works on the dermis of the skin and penetrates to a depth of 20mm to reach the subcutaneous fat layer. Once this was completed, Dlamini used the BiPolar RF hand piece, which
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
penetrates to a depth of 6mm to work on the epidermis. Throughout the RF treatment Dlamini used a thermometer to monitor my skin’s temperature to make sure that it remained between 38 and 44 degrees centigrade. When Dlamini finished the left side of my body she requested that I go to a mirror to see how my left side compared to my right side. To my delight there was a marked difference – the treated side definitely looked tighter and lifted, prompting me to immediately book for a course of six treatments. Once she had completed the treatment on my right side, Dlamini emphasised that I should drink lots of water and go for a brisk walk to continue the process of lymphatic drainage. PB
Contact: Best Lasers 012 998 9844
online at www.probeauty.co.za
treatment review – body contouring
48
Contouring, the marine way Heleen Wiese takes aim at her problem areas by experiencing Phytomer’s Sculpt Zone body contouring treatment.
P
rior to undergoing the Sculpt Zone treatment, which took place at the newly opened Urban Bliss Spa in Emmarentia, Johannesburg, all I knew about Phytomer was that is a premium French marine brand. On arrival, spa manager Lerato Tlhame noted that Sculpt Zone is a 100% natural treatment incorporating biotechnology. “This is an intensive and localised treatment for the abdomen, buttocks and thighs that targets excess fat and cellulite. “Ideally we suggest a course of four treatments over two weeks, but if the client is short of time they can opt for a one-week course comprising two treatments. Clinical test results show that you can lose at least 1cm waist circumference with Sculpt Zone,” explained Tlhame. She then commenced the treatment with a short relaxation exercise, which involved taking deep breaths and inhaling Oligomer essence. Containing 104 trace
elements, Oligomer is Phytomer’s flagship marine ingredient and helps to relax and feed the body. For the exfoliation phase of the treatment, Tlhame used the Phytomer Toning Body Scrub, which also contains Oligomer as well as marine salt crystals. Lying on my side, Tlhame started the exfoliation process on the back of my abdomen before doing the backs of the thighs and buttocks, followed by the stomach and front of thighs. The scrub felt nice and warm and was removed with a damp compress. To mix the mud for the ThermoSculpting Body Wrap, Tlhame mixed 400gm of powder to 300gm of lukewarm water. “The star ingredient of the mud is Pepper Slimactiv,” continued Tlhame, “which is derived from the pepperseed oil plant in South America. It targets fat cells and inhibits the genes that cause fat, thus stimulating lipolysis. A big advantage of this wrap for spas and salons is that it does not clog the drains or stain towels.” Tlhame applied the mud with
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
massaging movements. I could feel the heat of the mud and actually heard it bubbling and popping on my skin. Once it was applied I was wrapped in Phytomer’s Micron Foil to increase the heat. The mud was left on for 20 minutes, during which time Tlhame performed a scalp massage. After the mud had been rinsed off, Tlhame applied the Contouring Massage Concentrate. She did this with very strong and deep massage movements which she referred to as ‘kneading, cupping and hacking’, to encourage lymphatic drainage. The final stage of the treatment was the application of Celluli Attack, to continue the lipolysis process. At the end of the treatment, what I refer to as ‘the hail effect’ (ie. cellulite dimples) on my buttocks and thighs had definitely diminished, and my skin looked a lot firmer. PB
Contact: A&I Importers 011 486 4904
online at www.probeauty.co.za
THE NEW FRONTIER OF SKIN CARE FACE & BODY Innovative biotech ingredients combined with exceptional manual techniques for instant visible youth results. WELLBEING Deeply holistic, PHYTOMER protocols offer comprehensive and relaxing care through a range of sublime signature treatments. SUPPORT PHYTOMER offers partnership in the truest sense of the word: therapist training, marketing and promotions alongside incomparable customer service all helping to meet the needs of your business.
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product focus – eczema
51
Fractious flare-ups The term eczema encompasses a group of medical conditions that cause the skin to become inflamed or irritated. This troublesome and unsightly disorder requires special care.
Rich formula With its rich hydrating blend of natural waxes and glycerol, DermaFix Moisturiser Rx will enhance the principal lipids in the stratum corneum – ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. The moisturiser’s occlusive ingredients have been shown to reduce water loss by 98%.
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Dramatic cream RégimA’s Ultralite Therapeutic Massage has been seen clinically to have a dramatic effect on eczema. It combines the highly moisturising ingredients of phospholipids, jojoba, marigold and sorbitan, which have antiseptic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties.
011 615 2869
To the max Epi-max is a highly effective, carefully formulated emollient cream. Because it is not an aqueous cream, Epi-max locks moisture in the skin and prevents it from evaporating. Tested by dermatologists, Epi-Max is hypo-allergenic, perfume-free and not tested on animals.
011 545 9300
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
product focus – eczema
52
Soothe away Doctor Babor Neuro Sensitive Cellular has an anti-irritant effect, soothes itching and feelings of tightness, while restoring the hydrolipid mantle that protects the skin. It does not contain any ingredients that could upset the skin’s balance and it can even be used during symptom-free periods in the case of neurodermatitis, psoriasis or eczema.
011 467 0110
Specific range Pevonia’s RS2 range was specially developed to treat eczema. The range comprises a cleanser, lotion, concentrate and cream. Ingredients include green tea, which helps the healing process, while French rose, chamomile and liquorice extract calm redness, desensitise and have a vaso-constricting and cooling effect.
011 238 7080
Vitamin power Juliette Armand’s Multi-B Vitamins Serum contains Vitamins B5 and B6 for a powerful anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant action. The B5 Vitamin increases skin hydration by preventing intradermal moisture loss. It accelerates the healing of injuries and reduces skin irritations and erythema.
011 033 0500
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product focus – eczema
53
Clear away Atopiclair is a new step in the management of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis that reduces the need for steroids. It has the antiinflammatory properties of glycyrrhetinic acid, derived from liquorice root and provides calming effects on the skin comparable to a cortico steroid, without the side effects.
011 545 9300
Active cocktail Dr Gobac Starter Cream has shown an improvement on skin suffering from eczema due to its cocktail of active ingredients that work synergistically to nurture and protect the skin. At the same time the cocktail stimulates the skin’s own rejuvenation and repair mechanisms.
011 314 9222
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
eye opening results! The proof is in the pudding. Don’t just take our word for it, request your FREE eyeSlices® sample today! A hydration metre measuring the before and after hydration levels in the skin post the use of eyeSlices®, shows an average increase of: 25% - 50% instant hydration to the skin within 5 minutes of use. BEFORE
After 1 use of 5 minutes AFTER
BEFORE
After 1 use of 5 minutes AFTER
Photographs with compliments of Waste Away Salon
www.eyeslices.com You and eyeSlices® – Doing life together
micro needling
55
Needlepoint An acknowledged skin rejuvenation technique, micro needling can treat a variety of conditions, including hyperpigmentation, scarring, broken capillaries and enlarged pores, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Safety Late last year the DermaFix team attended Dr Lance Setterfield’s dermal needling workshop in order to measure the methodology used. Says DermaFix MD Ursula Hunt: “The collagen induction produced by dermal needling is now recognised as far superior to most modalities offered in-clinic.”
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Pic: Environ
M
icro needling is built on exactly the same concept of using your body and skin’s own intrinsic way of healing itself to treat myriad skin conditions and needs. So says Gunther Dippenaar, managing director and senior aesthetic therapist of Sprout Medical Aesthetics. “The reason I like to recommend micro needling to clients is because it is a viable alternative to plastic surgery. When combined with other therapies, such as laser skin renewal, or resurfacing, it can yield similar results, without being as invasive, costly and timeconsuming as surgery.” He points out that the micro needling device, which consists of a number of tiny needles, is gently worked along the surface of the skin. “This creates a controlled injury, which is caused at a micro level and stimulates the skin’s inherent healing processes. The skin realises that the old and damaged cells cannot be repaired, so it responds by releasing an enzyme to remove the old and damaged cells, which are now replaced with new collagen, elastin and skin cells. “The most dramatic results occur between three and six months. Clients are often amazed at the results they can see from their fourth session,” explains Dippenaar.
The DermaFix options include the MT Microneedling Needle Roller – a durable, high-quality precision tool, the MT Microneedling Dermal Stamp and classic tattoo devices for specialist procedures. Hunt continues: “Safe practice is being aware of the importance of blood-borne pathogens and adhering to infection control precautions for minimising the risk of exposure to blood or body fluids. It is vital to reduce the risk of transmission of infection and disease from client to client, therapist to client, and client to therapist. R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
micro needling
56
“Purchasing micro needling devices from reputable companies is advised, as, through the Consumer Protection and Vicarious Liability Acts, the consumer has the power to enforce their rights in cases of negligence.”
Pic: Dermafix
Dermapen The advanced skin-needling technology of the Dermapen uses multiple needles that vertically pierce the skin with an automated vibrating function. Says Genop Healthcare product manager Glynis Watkins: “When moved across the skin’s surface it stimulates natural collagen reproduction, while allowing fine channels to be created in the skin. These can carry up to 80% more topical nutrients, allowing for treatment delivery deep into the skin’s fibroblasts to feed the underlying cells in the dermis and basal layer. This increased absorption of active ingredients into the skin creates stimulated repair and faster resurfacing results.” She notes that advanced skinneedling promotes scar-less healing and the deposition of normal woven collagen, similar to fractional laser treatments but without the side effects and downtime. “The Dermapen causes minimal epidermal (skin) damage, therefore reducing pain and discomfort, and making it a safe and highly effective treatment. It is even suitable for delicate and hard-to-reach areas, such as around the eyes, lips and nose,” concludes Watkins.
Rollers
According to Yolandi Mestre of Exclusive Beauty Solutions, distributor of Anesi rollers, clinical studies have proven that serum absorption is increased by as much as 3000 times when applied with a roller. Pic: Anesi
“They accomplish “The reason I like to recommend the same or better micro needling to clients is results as other because it is a viable alternative to ablative treatments by increasing the plastic surgery. When combined production of collagen with other therapies, such as laser with minimal damage to the protective layer skin renewal, or resurfacing, it of the skin. Rollers can yield similar results, without are affordable and safe, with very little being as invasive, costly and pain or discomfort, time-consuming as surgery.” downtime and risk Gunther Dippenaar of complications,” explains Mestre. Not all skincare supervision of a medical doctor in a ranges are suitable to combine with special environment. The client’s skin micro-needling. Following intensive needs to be prepared on Vitamins research, Anesi has developed a set A, C and E for at least three weeks of protocols adapted to combine beforehand. treatment with micro-needling. Suitable Anesi treatments Protocol are: Aqua Vital (hydration), Age Janine Thomson of The Skin & Body Rebellion (anti-ageing), DNA (antiClinic, who runs a micro needling ageing), Stem C3 (sun damage and course called Creating Healthy Skin, luminosity), Celestial Secret (Antinotes that micro-needling can achieve ageing with meteorite extract) optimal results safely on all Fitzpatrick and Expression Ritual (eye and lip Skin Types I to VI without the costs treatment). and side effects of some ablative modalities on the market. Pioneer Says Thomson: “Needling leads to Known as a global guru of nonregenerative healing, as opposed to invasive skin needling, Environ cicatricial healing, as with most other founder Dr Des Fernandes has treatment modalities. almost 20 years of experience in “The key to success is knowing the field. Today Environ has three what you want to achieve and how different types of needling: cosmetic you will obtain these results. This (needle length = 0.1mm), medical includes effective pre- and post(1mm – 1.5mm) and surgical (3mm). treatments relative to the condition Cosmetic needling is designed to you are treating. During the healing use daily, as part of a professionally cascade, collagenase peaks at recommended home regime to aid approximately day 14. Knowing at the absorption of Environ’s topically what intervals to combine needling applied, vitamin-enriched skincare with other modalities, like laser, IPL, products. chemical peels, facials that address Medical and surgical needling corneotherapy etc, really is the trick of is performed by trained skincare the trade for optimal results.” PB professionals who work under the
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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hair news
58
Crowning glory Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Fighting the frizz The Amazon Liss Anti-Frizz Treatment System from Brazilian company Nutree Professional regenerates the hair fibre due to the hydrolysed keratin and antioxidant properties of acai and cocoa. These penetrate the cuticle, rebuilding its structure, hydrating and restoring damaged hair.
011 608-3153/54
Jonathan Lieman (Marica Salon Specialists) with Nutree Professional’s Renato Antunes and Brazilian celebrity hairdresser, Sergio Eloy
Honeyed hair From Toni&Guy comes the label.m Honey & Oat Shampoo, which delivers effective conditioning without heaviness. It contains honey, oat extracts, sea algae and sea cabbage to remoisturise the hair. Label.m’s exclusive Enviroshield Complex actively protects hair against heat styling and UV rays.
Smart silicones Andjo Silicone Serum is a unique blend of silicones that boosts the natural shine of hair and hair extensions without weighing hair down. Ideal for daily use on human hair, Remy, Brazilian hair weaves, wigs or extensions, either on wet or dry hair, its lightweight formula gives hair an oil-free, silky-sleek finish.
011 326 3813
021 448 8740
Scalp sense Scalp Magic Kit is a comprehensive professional treatment kit that addresses dry, itchy, flaky and dandruff prone scalp. It sheds away old layers and removes impurities from the hair follicles and scalp. The unique formula is full of antioxidant-rich argan oil, black castor oil and essential oils of lavender, tea tree and peppermint.
072 710 5279
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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nails
60
Fashion at your
fingertips
With fashion setting the latest trends for nails, from colour to shape and design, nail art is like haute couture for your nails, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
T
hanks to technological advances, nail stylists have a vast selection of nail art materials, techniques and methods to choose from, offering you the opportunity to experiment, explore your artistic freedom and create designs that will set your nail art services apart from the rest. It’s not just about creating way out, wild designs that are sure to attract attention; designs can also be subtle and classy. In fact, they can be whatever you want them to be. Nails have become an important fashion accessory and the perfect canvas to translate fashion into fine works of art, dressing them in the latest trends to complement and enhance a particular style. If you don’t think that you have the creative flare or talent for nail art, why not just give it a try and start with some very basic techniques, slowly inventing and creating new looks and intricate effects as you become accustomed to the different techniques. Once you have put your skills to the test and feel comfortable with your abilities, move on to more advanced techniques and you will be amazed at what you can achieve. Basic designs can be created with nail enamel, using two or even three different shades to create a colour block effect and dividing them with silver or gold striping tape. Rhinestones, pearls and studs can also be used to create even simpler designs that don’t really require much artistic skill but are great
for adding a little glitz and glamour to your client’s nails. These can be secured in the nail enamel or even set inside acrylic or gel. Many distributors of nail art products offer nail art courses that can assist you to get started and learn the basics. There are also plenty of step-by-step video tutorials on the internet and magazines, which provide you with in-depth guides to nail art and how to achieve a particular design and look.
Latest trends Each new year is accompanied by new nail trends, colours, textures, shapes and styles. While some styles are forgotten, others are taken to new levels. The inspiration behind many of these designs comes from the latest fashions seen on the catwalks, which is why it is so important for nail salons and technicians to keep up to date with the latest trends, which are being demanded by women and sometimes men. Let’s look at some of the latest trends and nail art designs that have been spotted on the runways for this year. Nail art seems to have shifted into a different direction, taking on a more sophisticated look, from subtle barely there designs – like the side swipes seen at Prabal Gurung, with fine lines lightly feathered across a nude
All pics courtesy CND Look Book
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
61
nail – to more bright and bold, but beautiful, flower power designs, which models wore at Desigual. A very popular look for the season is the half-finished manicure, which looks something like distressed wood. A look that is definitely not so cool is having halffinished nail art on your nails when you are meant to be one of the sexiest men on the planet. Brad Pitt was spotted recently with a strange zigzag pattern on a few of his nails, while handing over an award at the Palm Springs International Film Festival. R
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Each new year is accompanied by new nail trends, colours, textures, shapes and styles. While some styles are forgotten, others are taken to new levels.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
nails
62 Nail art designs can be created with the most unexpected of materials, incorporating items with one another like buttons, studs, and tape. Different coloured nail enamels, acrylic paints, glitters, rhinestones, coloured polymer powders and gels can all contribute to create amazing designs.
Where fashion meets art Jan Arnold, co-founder and style director for CND, is well known for her collaboration with designers when it comes to styling nails for top international fashion shows, heading up an elite team of ‘artisans’. Arnold states that new technology and elevated thinking has taken ordinary nail art to fine art. She maintains that nail art has a connotation of humour and frivolity, but that the new standard is precious, calculated and architecturally refined. In London, Arnold and her team worked with award-winning designer Michael van der Ham, whose fabric is a study in couturier creativity and old world craftsmanship. Van der Ham understood the need for ‘painterly’ nails to enhance the effect of intricate weaves of breathtakingly beautiful patterns cut into day dresses. In New York there was a collection of both theatrical and wearable avant garde designs, with futuristic references and nails as precious jewels from another universe.
Techniques Some of the techniques in use have been around for many years and are very effective in creating beautiful works of art. Nail art designs can be created with the most unexpected of materials, incorporating items with one another like buttons, studs, and tape. Different coloured nail enamels, acrylic paints, glitters, rhinestones, coloured polymer powders and gels can all contribute to create amazing designs. • Polishes – nail polish is one of the
most commonly used products with nail art stylists, who have found so many ways to create wonderful designs and effects. • Timeless classic – the French manicure is still one of the most classic and requested services within manicures, pedicures and nail enhancements. This look is not just about using the classic white and pink or beige colours; it can also offer variations in shape and colour. A look that presents itself on the runways year in and year out in a variety of colour combinations, and which was perfectly showcased at Sophie Thealett, is a twotoned pastel French mani, which complemented the classic flowing pieces. Then there were the gorgeous geometric diamond designs in crisp white shown at Azede Jean-Pierre. • Marbling – a very effective technique done with nail enamel and a marbling tool was worn by models at the Degen show. Two or more colours are applied to the nail and gently swirled around and mixed into one another to create a beautiful unique marbled effect. The design is never the
Turning clients onto nail art It can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to get your clients to take the plunge and wear nail art. How do you address this? The first step is to get to know your client, their likes and dislikes, favourite colours, hobbies and career. Nail art should suit your client’s personality, style and fashion preference. These elements can be pulled together to create a custom design for a client. For those who are a little reluctant, introduce them to the idea of nail art gradually or else they could just end up feeling uncomfortable
wearing it and may never want to try it again. Let your clients be a part of discovering a whole new dimension in nail art. Use their ideas as inspiration for your creations. The internet is also a great place to do some research, see what’s trending and what top nail stylists are up to. Create a portfolio of your work with photographs or on actual nail tips, which can be showcased in a box frame and shown to your clients.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
63 same and can range from covering the entire nail to only parts of it. • Sponging – this technique can be applied with nail enamels or acrylic paint. A base colour is applied to the nail and then a second, or even third, colour is sponged lightly over the surface to create a sponge effect. This is very effective, especially when using metallic colours. • One stroke – water based acrylic paints can be used to create elaborate hand painted designs. The designs can be as simple as a few flowers or as detailed as a landscape. For some extra sparkle, add some glitter dust, foil or even bits of fabric and lace. This technique is great for creating a layered effect that can bring a design to life. • 3D – creating nail art with enhancement products such as liquid and powders, gels and even silk, allows the nail stylist the opportunity to really unleash their artistic flair and experiment on more adventurous clients. Designs can range from very basic to outrageous, some of which are definitely not wearable and created specifically for photo shoots, competitions or shows. These same designs can be scaled down, making it possible to create the same 3D look that is wearable. The techniques are very skilful, need a lot of time and patience, and must be performed by a very experienced nail stylist. Additives are still ever popular and a great way to bring colour to your clients. CND offers an eye-opening collection of pure pigments and lustrous effects, the additives can be blended into sculpting powder or gel. This breed of nail artistry brings together an array of cosmetic grade pure pigments and effects for nails in versatile dramatic colours, along with couture effects. There are many more amazing and exciting techniques that can be explored and tried. With products and techniques having evolved tremendously over the years, there are no limitations to what you can achieve, there is something to suit everyone’s taste. So why not move away from applying the same old single shades on your client’s nails that they so love to wear week in and week out, and try something a little different for a change. If you have never tried a little nail art and put your creativity to the test, now is your opportunity to add a new dimension to your nail business. PB
Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
Leading Nail Care
product news
64
In the market Our round-up of newly launched products, innovations and devices.
Primed and ready
r
084 956 5285
New RF technology
The Dermatrix device adopts non-invasive fractional RF (radiofrequency) technology that delivers heat energy deep into the subcutaneous layers to regenerate collagen, restore skin firmness and improve skin texture, producing the maximum dermal effects, while minimising the damage to the epidermis.
011 794 8252/3
Gentle cleanser r
011 262 6120
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
In full view
r
DMK’s Milky Clean & Pure is a milk-based cleanser recommended for reactive skin types. It cleanses the skin without the need for harsh abrasive granules and scrubbing, and is ideal for delicate skins. Milky Clean & Pure is lauryl-, laureth sulphate-, artificial colorant- and paraben-free.
With the Anesi SkinView device the therapist can have a complete diagnosis of the client’s skin in less than 10 minutes, with pictures and graphics to compare with the average population of women in that age range. It recommends the best Anesi treatments based on its results.
011 791 4027
r
MUD Primer is the solution to preparing the skin for make-up application and lastability. This silicon-based face primer was designed to be used i n multiple ways. You can prep the skin to create a smooth surface or you can mix it with MUD foundations to create a sheer coverage.
product news
65
Regenerating elixir Thalgo’s Prodige Des Océans is an elixir comprising 61 regenerating nutrients. The formulation includes 15 minerals, seven vitamins, 14 fatty acids, three glucides, 21 amino acids and one phytonutrient. It makes the skin regain its original vitality and radiance.
011 880 3850
r
Biphasic delivery
The Booster Elixir Serum range from Six was developed to comprehensively treat the significant signs of skin ageing. Its biphasic gel delivery system transports the specially developed active ingredients to the parts of the skin where they are needed most. 011 312 7840
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
product news
66 Potent trio r Dermalogica has announced the launch of the PowerBright TRx system, consisting of three highly active products that incorporate the newest technology in skin brightening. The range replaces ChromaWhite TRx, and represents a streamlined approach to treating hyperpigmentation. 011 268 0018
Fantasy polish r Morgan Taylor Professional Nail Lacquer has launched its Enchantment Collection 2015 – a limited edition palette of six majestic hues. Clients will be mesmerised by six whimsical shades – Hocus Pocus, Who-Dini, I’m the Good Witch, Magician’s Assistant, Now You See Me, and Simply Spellbound. 011 447 0659
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Stable retinol
011 486 4542
Everlasting beauty
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Appropriate for all skin types, especially normal to oily, Scinderm’s Medical Retinol 20 Cream is free of fragrances, preservatives and surfactants. Microencapsulation significantly enhances the stability of retinol by isolating the molecule in the core of a microscopic acrylic matrix, protecting it from light and oxygen.
The Forever Beautiful range by Infinity Skincare includes PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica, which encourages stem cell protection and Perfection Peptide P3 to induce biomimetic peeling. Ameliox combats wrinkles and glycation, Lipobelle Soyaglycone is for lifting, with Delentigo the age spot solution.
076 240 3719
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za
IPL/RF Machine Large touch screen display
Launch price
R220,000.00
Included:
Easy to operate
590nm 22cm² - Worlds largest hair removal applicator for large areas
Advanced cooling system
610nm 5cm² - Hair removal for all
Optional Extras:
skin types
Easy maintenance
515nm 1cm² - photo rejuvenation,
Applicator spot sizes from 1cm² to 22cm²
treats light vascular and light pigmented lesions, telangiectasias, rosacea and spider veins
Nd: YAG laser attachment for treating: pigmented skin, spider veins, fungal toe nails, stubborn hair and Tattoo removal. R46,000
Also effective on light coloured hair
A special RF skin tightening applicator
Professional heavy duty stand on wheels specially designed for the zeolite. R4,500
Unique patent pending vacuum delivery system Measures vacuum level to skin, 20 times a second and makes minor adjustments to protect the skin from damage On screen training videos & help User adjustable vacuum and various sized real diamond tips for different treatment options
Includes: Electric Sterilizer tank Full set of Diamond heads Launch price
R69,600.00
Revolution in age-reversal using nanocurrent technology
Launch price
R72,000.00
Re-energizes cells in the face and body The feeling of a VIP facial treatment No needles, no pain, no chemicals Immediate results and long lasting effects
www.sonicmedical.co.za +27 82 905 3438
City & Guilds is proud to present the new beauty qualifications for South Africa, developed for industry by industry.
To find out more about these qualifications, how to recognise prior learning and become a City & Guilds Approved Centre, email info@cityandguilds.co.za or telephone 011 544 4660
medical aesthetics
68
Results with
retinol If you are serious about delivering dramatic results in your skincare clinic or aesthetic practice, retinol is an ingredient that you cannot be without, writes Karen Ellithorne.
R
etinol is known for its versatility and can be used to address many skincare concerns including photo-ageing, coarse texture, enlarged pores and acne scaring. “Vitamin A is known as the ‘normalising’ vitamin,” says Sonette Donker from Skin iD. “Any skin type or skin condition can benefit from vitamin A, it just depends on the product formula and the form of vitamin A used, ie. retinyl palmitate, retinol or retinoic acid. Vitamin A is mostly used to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and ageing.” Retinol is derived from the compound retinoid, which is a derivative of vitamin A, and it has been used by doctors and dermatologists for the last century, both orally and topically, to treat a broad spectrum of dermatological conditions. Donker continues; “Retinol is the fat-soluble, or alcohol, form of vitamin A and it can cause irritation on some skins. Retinyl palmitate, on the other hand, is the least aggressive form of vitamin A, making it more suitable for delicate, sensitive skins. Retinol, however, stimulates collagen synthesis within hours compared to retinyl palmitate, which takes days to do so.”
Ursula Hunt, the founder of DermaFix, elaborates: “Retinyl palmitate is an ester or chemical compound formed from the reaction of retinol and palmitic acid, and is commonly used as an anti-oxidant in cosmetic products.”
Diverse molecule Retinol is a very diverse and dynamic molecule according to the team at optiphi. “When combined with other active ingredients, retinol can be used to effectively treat a number of dermatological conditions, such as inflammatory skin disorders, skin cancers and photo-ageing.” The optiphi team
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
says that the daily application of a retinol product on a normal, healthy skin will have a preventative action, as it will boost the skin’s immunity by ensuring the skin is always functioning optimally.
Potential side effects Donker says that retinol can cause the skin to become dry with visible redness. “This normally happens within two weeks of use,” she continues. “The best is to push past the two weeks, as
online at www.probeauty.co.za
medical aesthetics
69 Results moisturiser along with the topical application of retinol, to prevent the skin from drying out.
Regenerating properties Claudeen Krause, the educator for Mesoestetic in South Africa, says that vitamin A is well known for its regenerating properties. She refers to studies done by Varini et.al, 2000, (The Society for Investigative Dermatology) that have proven a significant increase in fibroblasts in the skin after topical retinol use and a significant decrease in collagenase, the enzyme responsible for collagen breakdown. Krause always suggests applying Mesoestetic Cosmeretin on the skin during professional treatment protocols. “Cosmeretin is Mesoetetic’s retinol in sterile ampoule form. It is suitable for mesotherapy and for use with any trans dermal delivery systems/machines. It is 0,001% strength, which may appear weak, however the formulation allows for maximum penetration,” she explains.
Healthy dose your skin will start to look amazing. If the skin is very sensitive it is recommended to use retinyl palmitate. Normally retinyl palmitate is 100% safe to use on even the most sensitive skins, as it has no side effects.” The optiphi team adds: “Retinol exfoliates your skin from the inside out, and, during the process, your skin can become extra-sensitive. It’s advisable to start with small amounts of the product, while building up a tolerance for the active ingredients. We caution against using the retinol directly on the eyelids, but encourage very careful use under the eyes.” Hunt suggests that clients stay out of the sun and wear sunscreen (SPF45 or higher) together with protective clothing. Retinol products should be used exactly as prescribed on the package label. Lastly, Hunt advises using a
online at www.probeauty.co.za
DermaFix’s vitamin A Propionate supplies your skin with a healthy dose of vitamin A, helping with vitalisation of the skin and improving the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with actinic keratosis reducing to zero after 48 weeks. This lightweight formula is ideal for all skin types, including dry, sensitive and acne. Dr Babor Derma Cellular Ultimate A16 Booster Concentrate promises your client’s skin a fresh, and fast ‘reboot’. “With Retinew A16 we have raised the bar,” explains Andrea Weber, who heads the research and innovation centre at Babor. “In the new product that contains Retinew A16, the concentrate is 16 times more concentrated than vitamin A. Retinew A16 is a protein fraction extracted from the seeds of the moth bean. The ingredient speeds up skin renewal by
The known effects that a customer will experience from a retinol product are: • Marked increase in epidermal cell turnover, resulting in smoother, plumper, more radiant skin. • Improved circulation, reducing a sallow appearance on the skin and giving it a healthy glow. • Decreased melanin synthesis, which will even out and unify the skin tone and can improve actinic keratosis. • Collagen production will be stimulated, therefore compacting and firming the skin. • A noticeable reduction in fine lines, wrinkles and expression lines. Source: Ursula Hunt of DermaFix
activating the skin’s growth factors as well as the fibroblasts, which produce collagen. At the same time, it stimulates the keratinocytes that are responsible for epidermal regeneration.” Babor’s Derma Cellular Detoxifying Vitamin Cream SPF 15 also contains Retinew A16 and highdose vitamins C and E to strengthen the skin’s immune defence system and improve the skin’s natural ability to protect itself against UV rays. Pevonia Spa Clinica’s MicroRetinol product includes highly active ingredients of retinol, collagen and elastin, vitamins C and E and hyaluronic acid to stimulate cellular growth and speed up cell turnover. PB With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
saahsp
70 Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
SA delegation at CIDESCO Congress Representatives from CIDESCO’s South Africa Section attended the international CIDESCO congress, which took place in Athens, Greece, in October.
A
s the host for the 2015 CIDESCO World Congress and Exhibition, South Africa took the opportunity offered by the congress in Greece to connect with colleagues, friends and new acquaintances to encourage attendance for this year’s event. For the past 62 years, CIDESCO has hosted global congresses all over the world. Attendees of the 2014 congress in Greece report that it was a well-run and informative event, offering valuable insight on a number of key topics. The programme provided a hands-on approach, with demonstrations of various massage techniques from around the world, as well as specialised make-up applications. It also looked at a variety of treatment protocols and highlighted the latest advancements in therapy and skincare technology. Speakers from all over the world shared their expertise and knowledge. South African representatives Helene Bramwell (honorary CIDESCO president and CIDESCO gold medallist) and Karen Ellithorne (somatologist/ medical aesthetic seminar organiser) were invited to talk on: ‘Aesthetics of yesterday, today, tomorrow’. Bramwell and Ellithorne focused on the ever-changing nature of our industry and the importance of keeping up to date, particularly in line with a more educated consumer. They looked at how the South African industry has
Helene Bramwell, honorary CIDESCO president (South Africa), Dianne Miles, honorary CIDESCO member(Australia), Kyriacos Poupoutsis, honorary CIDESCO president (Cyprus) and Fanie Poupoutsis, CIDESCO president (Cyprus)
evolved, and how certain synergies are forming between doctor and therapist. Bramwell and Ellithorne maintained that the therapist needs to remember that their role is central to all medical professions, and, as such, must remain connected and informed about what is happening in an expanding industry. This lecture was well received and resulted in lengthy discussions with delegates and training institutions from other countries.
Exchanging flags As part of being selected to host the CIDESCO World Congress next year, Bramwell and fellow South African representative Menna Kleine were invited on stage to exchange flags with outgoing host, Greece. The face of Mandela on the South African flag was a huge hit, causing great excitement in the audience. In addition, South Africa presented the CIDESCO international president, Anna-Cari Gund, and the CIDESCO president of Greece, Iro Koroneau, with authentically crafted CIDESCO friendship cups – a token that they
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
hope will become a tradition for years to come.
What to expect at the 2015 Congress in SA South Africa will host the 63rd CIDESCO World Congress & Exhibition of Aesthetics, Spa, Health and Beauty at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg from May 23 to 25, 2015. The theme of this year’s conference is: ‘Skin is Alive’ with an emphasis on the important therapeutic role therapists play working beyond the epidermis, looking at the science behind current skincare practices. It will provide practical knowledge and insight, covering topics such as skin peeling, hormonal influences, light therapies, pH imbalances and the latest antiageing technologies.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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business tips
72 Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Somi Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: somi@probeauty.co.za
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Melanoceutical Skin Brightening System
Powerful • Safe • Targeted “Evidence-based Skin Care”
For more information or to book for product training, contact Tracey: Cell: 076 937 6388; email: info@scinderm.co.za or visit us at www.scinderm.co.za Available exclusively - dispensing from Medical or Aesthetic Professionals TRADE ENQUIRIES WELCOME