June 2014
www.probeauty.co.za
In the ‘neck’ of time Neck & décolleté treatments
Firm grip How to retain valuable staff
Train of thought State of training
En route to
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Destination spas
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In this issue... Regulars 5 Industry news
Local and international news
58 Product news
All the latest launches
28
49 Hair news
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
62 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
Business 13 Mind your manners
How to talk to clients
14 Planning the perfect product launch
Springboard to success
Nails
16 Business of Beauty Blog
The A, B and C of EI
45 Finishing touches
18 How to keep great staff
Features
Spa Focus
28 The hair-free zone
21 Destination: Wellness
Global wellness tourism affects spa industry
24 When East meets West
Latest hair removal equipment
34 The future is now
Thai spa with sister classic beauty salon
State of beauty therapy training in South Africa
38 The big boost
Medical Aesthetics
52 Under the knife
Add-on services that ensure client retention
Top tips for employers
Serums in the spotlight
42 Professional Beauty Durban a hit
Cosmetic surgery trends
What the exhibitors had to say
55 In pursuit of a youthful neckline
Neck and décolleté treatments
52 34 online at www.probeauty.co.za
13 Professional Beauty June 2014
Welcome
B
eauty therapists and medical aesthetics practitioners face stiff competition from cosmetic surgeons in today’s youthful looks and slim body-obsessed world. Effectively they all operate in the same market, offering treatments and procedures to rejuvenate and beautify the skin, face, neck and body. For that reason we have included in this issue an article about current trends in cosmetic surgery, directly from the horse’s mouth. Encouragingly, the article reveals that non-surgical facial and skin procedures remain top of the list when it comes to numbers of procedures performed, as clients are seeing visible results with relatively little downtime. The beauty students of today are the therapists of tomorrow, which is why it is vital that training standards in South Africa are up to par. Fortunately, as is evidenced in our special feature on the topic, local training not only matches, but in some cases exceeds, international standards, all of which bodes well for the industry. As this issue was going to press there was much excitement in the office as we collated the entries for the 2014 Professional Beauty Awards – the premier accolades for our industry. With so many wonderful entries this year it is bound to be a fantastic competition. We look forward to announcing the winners at the glittering gala ceremony that will take place on 31 August at RoomFive in Rivonia, as part of the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
July 2014
www.probeauty.co.za
In the ‘neck’ of time Neck & décolleté treatments
Firm grip How to retain valuable staff
Train of thought
Subscribe 9 issues for R450 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
State of training
En route to
wellness
Destination spas
On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com
Hair removal equipment
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079 The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/ or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com and www.dreamstime.com
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industry news
5
News
All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails.
PCASA implements PMU standards
T
he Permanent Cosmetic Association of South Africa (PCASA) is in the process of implementing standards for the permanent make-up (PMU) market in South Africa. This encapsulates setting up a regulatory framework and engagement models, as well as encouraging professional development and international alliances. Says PCASA chairperson Nikki van Gend: “PMU is one of the fastest growing industries in South Africa, so there is a great need for a regulatory body to protect students and the public. PCASA is a non-profit voluntary self-regulatory body with a fully constituted Code of Ethics, which
stipulates that all training courses must be a minimum of 120 hours. “PMU is a complex discipline and risk is inevitable where a lack of experience and/or knowledge exists. These procedures can add significant value to our clients’ lives, however the contrary can also be true if the industry is not led by a professional board like PCASA and exceptional levels of education are not adhered to, along with continuing professional development.” She explains that when PCASA sets up standards it first investigates international best practice. “This is where our alliance with the Society of Permanent Cosmetic
UK distributor for LTI Kirsty Horner of London-based Med-Aesthetix has been appointed the UK distributor of the Lilian Terry International (LTI) range of Homeopathic Aromeopathy products. Kirsty Horner Horner has over 20 years of experience in the beauty industry and is a clinical aesthetic consultant for medi-spas and aesthetic clinics. Says Horner: “I worked with LTI
online at www.probeauty.co.za
products for several years when I was a beauty therapist in South Africa. Now that I’m based in the UK, I’ve noticed that there are no similar products in the market, despite there being a big move into aromatherapy and homeopathy.” LTI’s Derek Terry adds: “We welcome Kirsty to the LTI family. Not only does Kirsty have excellent experience of the product, she is very passionate about it. We believe this will be a very successful partnership.”
Nikki van Gend
Professionals (SPCP) of the USA is so important. International reference also assists us in ensuring we remain up to date with developments. Furthermore, the SPCP alliance provides an international platform where we share our milestones and findings.” Van Gend stresses that PCASA plays an important role in imparting reliable PMU information to the public. “We receive a surprising amount of correspondence from the general public through our website, requesting well-qualified technicians and reporting poorly executed work,” she says. For more information visit: www.pcasa.org.za
News in pictures
T.E. Trade Events held a free exhibition seminar on 5 May at Gallagher Estate, Midrand, for companies that exhibit at the Professional Beauty Shows. Gavin Sharples, author of How to Exhibit for Dummies, revealed the secrets to maximising your exhibition stand.
Professional Beauty June 2014
industry news
6 News in brief ■ L’Oréal expands: Skincare, cosmetics and hair care giant L’Oréal has finalised its acquisition of the Decléor and Carita brands from Japan’s Shiseido Co Ltd.
■ Sherbet Angel relaunches: Sherbet Angel held an event on 10 May in conjunction with Mama Mio to announce its move to new premises on the corner of 4th Avenue and 9th Street, Parkhurst, Johannesburg.
■ Six changes packaging: The creators of Six Sensational Skin Care have evolved the packaging to appeal to the target market (25 – 70 age group) without losing the popular purple and pink colouring. They have also moved to a more luxurious board for the outer box.
■ Yammin ‘Thinks Big’: Marine Spa Distributors’ Brand Manager, Alison Yammin, won the Think Big Award at the recent Mega Partnering Africa II Business and Wealth Networking Conference in Johannesburg.
■ Dermalogica turns 20: May 2014 marked Dermalogica’s 20th birthday. To commemorate this milestone the brand launched its ‘Dermalogica – celebrating 20 years of changing skins’ campaign.
■ Elemis triumphs: Elemis has won Best British Brand at the Cosmetic Executive Women Awards, as well Best New Everyday Facial Skincare Product (Prestige) for its Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm.
Esna Colyn of Imbalie Beauty accepts the Franchisee of the Year Award on behalf of Kalai Moodley.
FASA awards beauty brands
I
mbalie Beauty, Dream Nails and Sorbet were honoured at the Franchise Association of South Africa (FASA) Awards for Excellence in Franchising, held on 9 April at Summer Place in Sandton. The Franchisee of the Year Award went to Kalai Moodley of Perfect 10, an Imbalie Beauty franchisee in Ballito. Dream Nails was a runner-up in the Franchisor of the Year category. Two field service consultants – Tarryn Godley and Cheri Loggrenberg – from Sorbet and Imbalie Beauty respectively, were
finalists in the Field Service Consultant of the Year category. Said Moodley: “I make a concerted effort to employ excellent staff and supplement this with the intensive training offered by the Imbalie Beauty Group. Furthermore, I also make a point of paying above market-related salaries and commissions, and offer a 13th cheque, which is virtually unheard of in the beauty industry. Creating a winning team has enabled me to attract and retain our large loyal client base.”
New moves Exclusive Beauty Solutions has appointed Yolandi Mestre as Brand Ambassador for Anesi Beauté. Mestre has been in the skincare industry for a number of years, and has established strong relationships with salons and spas countrywide. Danelle Landman has joined Radiant Healthcare as a trainer. Landman obtained her B-Tech degree in Somatology in 2000 at the Technicon Free State and lectured there as well as at Damelin and Motheo Ft College in Bloemfontein. She has worked at a Clarins Gold salon and for Dream Nails/Placecol as Business Developer and travelling therapist. Landman came to Johannesburg in 2010 where she started working as marketing and administrational officer at Camelot International Houghton. After that she marketed and trained in the product Rejuvi at Veeway cc. She has a great passion for the aesthetics industry and loves educating and training therapists and students.
Professional Beauty June 2014
Yolandi Mestre
Danelle Landman
online at www.probeauty.co.za
industry news
8
Oncology skincare workshops in SA
T
he International Dermal Institute recently facilitated Johnnette du Rand workshops for Dermalogica in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town to educate therapists on how to perform skin treatments on cancer patients or clients with a history of cancer. Du Rand is the co-founder of Greet the Day and the US-based Institute of Integrative Oncology and has been trainer and supervisor for integrative touch oncology programmes at numerous cancer centres since 2003. She received the 2008 Humanitarian Award from the Women’s Cancer Research Foundation. As the invitation-only, two-day
Celeb pulling power slackens Despite the fact that one of the most dramatic impacts of celebrity culture on consumer behaviour is greater emphasis on personal appearance and self-image, the majority of global consumers are unwilling to pay more for celebrity-endorsed beauty products. This is the finding of Euromonitor International’s report Celebrity Power and Its Influence on Consumer Behaviour. Sixty-six percent of respondents in the 2013 survey were not prepared to pay a premium simply because a beauty product was associated with a famous figure. Only 17% would be prepared to pay ‘a little’ more and 16% ‘a lot’ more. Younger consumers, however, are more susceptible to the pull of celebrity. Twenty-one percent of respondents in the 15-29 age group said they would be willing to pay a small premium for celebrityendorsed beauty products, while 24% said they would consider paying twice as much.
South African workshops were detailed practical sessions, only a maximum of 16 therapists per location could
be accommodated. Du Rand discussed treatment objectives, safety considerations, product selection and massage practices for oncology skin treatments, including adjustments required to safely address lymphedema, a common side-effect of cancer treatment.
Jericho expands in Western Cape Jericho Cosmetics has appointed Mindshift Wellness Studio as a distributor for the Western Cape. Says Jericho Cosmetics’ Phillane Pienaar: “Mindshift Wellness Studios is the brainchild of Lorraine Roux and Nina Lotter and part of the Elegance group, owned by Lorraine.
“Nina and Lorraine are passionate about the healthy body and mind connection in every aspect, from fitness to rehabilitation to the healing properties of Dead Sea. This is a perfect fit for Jericho as it is a parabenfree, 100% natural Dead Sea product that is not tested on animals.”
News in pictures
Following the recent Johannesburg Stock Exchange listing of parent company Ascendis Health, the Nimue Group held an event on 6 May in Johannesburg to update the press on its three brands – Nimue, pHformula and Solal Dermaceuticals.
Professional Beauty June 2014
Nimue’s Shane Franck (left) and Ben Watkins.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
industry news
9
Spa Consultants award excellence
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Arabella Kleinmond, Sherbet Angel and Nadine Pretorius won the Top Spa, Top Salon and Top Retail Therapist awards respectively at the recent Spa Consultants Annual Spa and Salon Awards (incorporating Six Sensational Skincare and Spalicious) in Johannesburg. There were a total of 56 nominees, with 15 awards handed out on the evening. Gladys Dube from Skin and Nail Lounge in Bryanston was recognised as the most improved therapist. Some 160 guests attended the ceremony, with representation from Durban and Cape Town. The event, which was held at Private Room in Kyalami, was filmed for an episode of the reality show The Real Housewives of Johannesburg, with the cast in attendance.
PMU training facility expands Three more trainers have joined Permanent Make-up Technology and will conduct permanent make-up (PMU) training at their own venues. Celeste Matthee will offer training in Three Rivers (Vereeniging), Lana Van Wyk will do the same in Moreleta Park (Pretoria) and Natasja Faught will operate in Nelspruit Sulé Loggenberg (Mpumalanga). The new trainers join company owner and founder Sulé Loggenberg and Kerry-Ann Smith, who handle training in Parys (Free State). All training qualifications are internationally accredited and technicians are listed with PMSI (Permanent Makeup Society International).
Professional Beauty June 2014
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business tips
13
Mind your manners Therapists often talk too much about themselves and not enough about the client, to the detriment of the business, writes Hellen Ward.
A
cting interested in the other person should be par for the course in our profession, but sadly this isn’t always the case. I was at a trade show recently and was surprised to bump into somebody from my dim and distant past. But more astounding was their complete inability to ask me a question. I heard about their new business venture, their children, their brand and their clients. In a minute surely, I thought, they will ask me a question. Nothing. For 20 minutes I acted fascinated (even though it was obvious how busy I was) and without the simple courtesy of “So, enough about me, what have you been up to?” So we know manners really matter. But could a lack of them actually be harming your business? A salon owner who came on one of my recent management bootcamps told me about a dilemma she had with one of her team. The member of staff concerned was obsessed with her upcoming nuptials, and made the mistake of thinking everyone else was, too. “The wedding is driving us all insane,” wailed the poor salon owner. “We’ve had six months of the engagement, a year of the wedding, and it’s still not happened yet. And then there’s the honeymoon!” The salon owner tried asking everyone to keep personal chat to a minimum, but the next morning the same girl was chatting nineteen to the dozen with every client on the subject of her wedding. Here\’s the thing – the client doesn’t really want to talk about us, she wants to talk about herself. Clients may seem to care, and even ask about what is happening in your private life, but one thing I have learned in 28 years in this profession is that they don’t mean it. They always prefer to be talking about themselves. And not in a personal sense, but about their needs and the reason they’re coming in for your services. They will
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Here’s the thing – the client doesn’t really want to talk about us, she wants to talk about always want to talk about herself. their skin, nails and brows, because that’s why they’re sitting in your chair, in your salon. A celebrity client once told me that they made the fatal mistake of getting too close to their therapist. Instead of the vast majority of the visit being about them, the therapist actually said, “Anyway, back to me!” before launching into another episode of her own soap opera and driving the client away. It’s never a bad thing to remind our teams to keep it professional. Small talk has its place, of course, but the reason for the visit should remain strictly about the client and their needs. PB
Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London’s Sloane Square.
Professional Beauty June 2014
business tips
14
Planning the
perfect product launch There are five key elements to planning a successful product launch, and, if you follow these common sense steps, you have the best possible chance of a positive outcome, writes Danielle Franco.
1
Start with a great product.
Remember to the movies – the ‘if you build it, be human. The they will come’ myth doesn’t actually happen. most successful budget is tight product launches are thenIf your try to be as clever as possible. Stick to the the ones that really basics and avoid ‘weird and connect with wonderful’ things. Meet the media at a beautiful venue, people. give them all the essential
Duh, right? It seems elementary, I know, but it all starts there. The product has to be something that people want or need – or something you can convince them that they want or need. Most importantly, it has to be finished before you launch it. Even if it’s the first generation version it has to deliver something of real value. If it’s halfbaked, or someone can shoot holes in it before they get to the benefits, now is not the time to be launching it. Get your brand story straight. This is my core focus, because it’s what we do. But there’s an important truth to this – if you can’t yet tell your story in a sentence or two, you’re not ready to launch your product. Also, you must have a grasp on your target audience, as rarely is a product suited to all consumers. The more narrowly you focus and target your audience, the better your chance of success. I believe that working with a marketing agency or PR company that can help you get that brand story nailed down is worth its weight in gold.
2
Networks
Build your networks before you need them. This is where so many entrepreneurs and start-ups fall down – they focus so much on building the product and don’t pay any attention to building networks, making friends and laying the groundwork to create buzz about their product. Another key factor is to make sure that enough budget is allocated to marketing, including social media, blogger outreach and advertising. This isn’t
information, and, if the budget allows, make sure that they are each given a full-size product at the launch.
3
Buzz
Create buzz around your product launch. If you’ve focused successfully on building strong networks and establishing relationships, you’ll be able to leverage them to create buzz about the product. You can create buzz by reaching out to bloggers and reviewers, giving them complete information and access to the product before anyone else gets a shot, giving them scoops, advance information and even exclusives where possible, so that they create the excitement before the launch. Word of mouth remains far more powerful than traditional advertising mediums. Remember to be human. The most successful product launches are the ones that really connect with people, and in order to do that you have to make your product speak to them in a human way. When we’re working on brand strategy and developing a brand story for our clients, we often ask clients: “Is this good for people and how so?” Let your messaging tell your target market how your product benefits them, in
Professional Beauty June 2014
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business tips
15
succinct, engaging and down-to-earth terms. All these key essentials are things that Apple has elevated to an art form with its brand – albeit with a very large budget. But the principles and best practices for success remain the same, whether your announcement is large or small.
4
Dealing with media
Never irritate the media under any circumstances. If you are good at your job and have a strong network, the media should know what to expect when attending one of your events – you shouldn’t have to nag or pester anyone. It’s always a good idea to bring in expert guest speakers to your launch. This year my aim is to bring in industry professionals to brief the media about news in the industry. But whether it’s a plastic surgeon or a specialist in a given field, it must relate back to the product you’re launching. If your relationship with the media is strong, it’s not necessary to follow-up post launch, but I will ask some of my network for feedback. The beauty media are very busy people and if we’re constantly bombarding them with ‘thank you’ e-mails and reminders we will drive them crazy. However, I do think it’s a good idea to thank the media for amazing publicity.
5
Fail safe
Planning, planning and more planning is necessary to ensure your launch goes off smoothly. Make sure you have a check-list, run through your event with the venue’s banqueting team, and meet everyone you are working with at least one week prior to the event to run through the order once, including any presentations. I always make sure that I have an event information sheet – this is your Bible and is given to the staff at any venue you work with. In conclusion, there are two things I always keep in mind: firstly, Steve Jobs’ “Find what you love” speech at Stanford University. The second thing is simple: “If you do what you love, you’ll never work a day in your life.” PB
Danielle Franco is both an entrepreneur and the director of personalised PR company, Bush Telegraph Publicity. Franco began her career in advertising and has a marketing and graphic design degree from the Triple A School of Advertising. Email: danielle@bushtelegraphpublicity.com
Professional Beauty June 2014
business tips
16
The A, B and C of EI ER, HR, EI – help, I need a dictionary! EI (emotional intelligence) is the latest hype in human resources and refers to the ability to perceive, control and evaluate emotions in the work environment, writes Debbie Merdjan.
H
When using
ow do I use EI in the emotional workplace, you may intelligence your spa ask? EI influences job or salon can become performance through a succession of abilities: the more efficient, – there are great software systems that ability to perceive emotions, to understand will help you to connect to your core productive and them and to regulate them. processes and the investment of time and successful. Self-management helps us to balance our money will produce a return. Technology will emotions and to have the self-awareness to improve your operations, creating efficiencies recognise our potential. As a manager it is important and simplification. to be an example to your team and to display leadership Communication gaps: If there are gaps in the qualities. Time management is essential when driving communication between employer, management and ourselves to reach our goals. We need to be punctual, employees this could lead to misperceptions about one organised and prepared. another, which will result in the damage of employeeRelationship management is an essential aspect employer relationships. of EI for business success. Successful relationship EQ - emotional quotient measures one’s general management is the key to building strong EI. There are intelligence, emotional intelligence and the ability to sense many ways to build relationships – thanking your staff emotions. EQ helps to leverage your awareness of emotions for what they do and acknowledging excellence. When for effectiveness in business. dealing with problems – identify, discuss and solve ER – Proactive employee relations (ER) comprise many (IDS). factors that are determined on the EQ of the employeeLMA stands for leading, managing and holding employer relationship. PB your staff accountable. It is imperative that your staff References: Bendix, S. (2010). Labour Relations in Practice: An Outcomes-Based understand your vision and expectations. Approach. Cape Town, Claremont: Mthunzi Nxawe. / Deery, S. J., & Iverson, R. D. (2005). Labour-Management Cooperation: Antecedents and Impact on Organisational Work environment is an important aspect of the performance. Industrial and Labour Relations Review, 58 (4), 588-609. / Muthry, P. & Srivastav, A. (1994). Empowering people for TQM through redesigning organisations. relationship between the employee and employer. Proceedings of the 23rd IFTDO world conference on human resource development. / Employers need to develop and sustain an enjoyable Srivastav, A. K. (2004). Proactive Industrial Relations: A Framework. Indian Journal of Industrial Relations, 40 (2), 266-272. work environment and should continue to grow it when necessary. Policies and procedures: Do you have clear policies Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the and procedures in place in your business? It is important Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry to have the ability to systemise these policies and since 1982 and started Camelot International procedures. If you clarify these procedures you will run Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and your business, as opposed to having your business run opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997. you. It is vital for you to identify your core processes
Professional Beauty June 2014
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business tips
18
How to keep great staff Sourcing exceptional staff is a challenge in itself, but keeping great talent often proves to be the bigger test. Nicole Stephens reveals seven ways to retain valued salon/spa staff.
1
If you provide the best possible working environment for employees, you will build a permanent staff base, comprising strong team members.
Be a terrific boss
Employees don’t need to be close friends with their employer, but employees need to feel seen and heard. So recognise their strengths and provide training and support where their weaknesses are concerned.
2
Offer security
Although monthly salary is a major concern, what your top staff members often want is security. Consider offering medical aid and/or a pension plan – it will go a long way towards fostering loyalty.
relationships with their clients. Making an example of these staff members will also give your top achievers the recognition and limelight they deserve for doing their job well.
3
6
4
7
Create great perks
You don’t always have to offer financial incentives to staff to hit their retail or re-booking targets. Offer time off as an incentive or add a ‘Top Achiever’ target and pay towards a weekend away for those who achieve it.
Strengthen your team
Time spent together as a team is essential. Some of my clients organise an event (which they pay for) with the entire team about once a month. They gather together for a fun experience such as a professional cooking lesson, drumming circle or dance class. This fosters terrific rapport between staff members of all levels.
5
Train from the top
Get your top three product retailers to train your entire team with their tips and tricks of the trade. The same method could be utilised with those staff members who are particularly good at building strong and lasting
Conduct ‘stay’ interviews
Rather than conducting exit interviews, find out from your staff members why they stay and what they enjoy about their position. This will give insight into what they value about your employment approach, thus allowing you to expand on whatever is working for you already.
Provide a clear path for advancement
Employees will become bored or frustrated if they see no clear future for themselves at your company. A great employer will provide the best foundation for employees to grow within their careers. Communicate closely with employees who report to you to ensure that each individual is excited and challenged to perform. PB
Nicole Stephens brings over a decade of sales and marketing experience, a degree in psychology and personal insight to her role as director of recruitment specialist TRS. Email her on nicole@trs.org.za
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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destination spas
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Destination:
Wellness Summerfields Rose Retreat & Spa near Hazyview in Mpumalanga
The current global wellness tourism trend continues to impact positively on the destination spa market, with South Africa the market leader in the Middle East and Africa region, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
A
ccording to figures derived from The Global Wellness Tourism Economy report compiled by research firm SRI International and presented at the 2013 Global Spa & Wellness Summit (GWTC) in New Delhi, India, South Africa generates $1.5m in annual spa trips and $1.5bn in spending. Looking at the broader picture, the industry in Sub-Saharan Africa is forecast to grow at 12.6% annually and to be worth $5.07bn by 2017. Anni Hood, tourism and government liaison for the GWTC, says: “Africa is tourism’s next frontier: from the rise of healthy adventure and safari tourism in South Africa and Kenya, to continued growth for spa and wellness resorts on islands like Mauritius or the Seychelles, to just-emerging East African destinations like Ghana or Senegal. These many different stories add up to one, big story: the fastestgrowing wellness tourism market in the world.”
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Definition Professional Beauty asked spa consultant Mimmie Lancaster of Symmetry World to define the term ‘destination spa’. Says Lancaster: “A destination spa is a facility whose sole purpose is to provide guests with lifestyle improvement and health enhancement through professionally administered spa services, such as massage, pressure point massage, reflexology, hydro therapy and more. “Physical fitness is offered either through guided walks, aqua aerobics, and yoga or stretch classes. Spa cuisine is on offer, not only at the spa itself, in the form of smoothies and power salads, but the hotel’s restaurant will have a ‘spa suggested/ recommended’ meals menu. All meals are focused on special needs, detox and revitalisation.” Lancaster adds that destination spas offer educational programmes or lectures on health-related topics, as well as on-site accommodation. Dedicated destination spas include health hydros, wellness centres, city
spas and any other spa facilities that exist for the sole purpose of providing spa treatments, while offering accommodation to guests.
Foreign influx Over the past six months the Kwa Maritane Spa & Gym in Pilanesberg National Park in Rustenburg, North West Province, has seen a 36% increase in overseas guests, according to Margarita Iounnou, Director of Operations at Legacy Balance, the owner of the spa. “The majority of our overseas guests come from America,” says Iounnou. “We have also had guests from the UK, Mozambique and other neighbouring countries of South Africa. The average stay of a guest is three nights, and on the first day they would typically do massage therapy, followed by skin treatments on the second day. They end their stay with manicures and pedicures. “Our spa manager can put together a specialised treatment package and menu for guests as we’re flexible. It R
Professional Beauty June 2014
destination spas
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is our policy not to set boundaries. Our cuisine is totally geared towards wellness and health.” Iounnou notes that the spa enjoys a steady stream of South African visitors who have timeshare on the Kwa Maritane Lodge. Typically they would book in on a Tuesday and leave on the Thursday. “We are a leisure destination, and our strongest selling point is that this is the most tranquil place you could find,” she says.
Targeted marketing Situated less than 30km from Pietermaritzburg in KwaZuluNatal, the Karkloof Safari Spa has experienced an upsurge in overseas visitors over the past two years. Says Karkloof’s Sales & Marketing Manager Wayne Suttie: “This increase can, I think, be attributed to our marketing strategies, which are targeted at international tour operators who cover Southern Africa. I’ve observed that the more we market, the more people the world over want to come to us. We were recognised as the Best Luxury Destination Spa in Africa at the 2012 World Spa Awards.” Suttie reports that the current ratio of overseas visitors to local guests is 60%:40%. The spa’s busiest time in terms of American guests is from June to September. This is also true of European guests. “The drop in the exchange rate is obviously hugely favourable to inbound tourism because of the value for money aspect. I would say that currently 20% of our business is return business,” he states. Word of mouth plays a huge role in terms of local guests as corporates who book in and enjoy the experience tend to spread the world. “The average stay time of our guests is four nights,” he continues. “But we have lots of single travellers who come in for the detox programme or the weight-management package and
Karkloof Safari Spa in KwaZulu-Natal
South Africa generates $1.5m in annual spa trips and $1.5bn in spending.
Natural beauty The majority of overseas guests who book into Summerfields Rose Retreat & Spa near Hazyview in Mpumalanga come from Europe and the US. “Sixty percent of our bookings are from overseas visitors,” says Summerfields’ André van Heerden. “We’ve found that South Africans are generally very cost-conscious and hence only make up 40% of our bookings.
Kwa Maritane Spa & Gym in Pilanesberg National Park in Rustenburg
will stay for a week. There is also a large percentage of Germans who book in for 10 to 14 days to detox. “In terms of cuisine, if you book in for a detox then the spa director will create a menu for you. Every time we receive a booking a questionnaire is sent to the client to ascertain their favourite juice, food choice, pillows, duvets etc.” Suttie believes the spa’s biggest selling point is the whole African concept of safari, mixed with the exoticism of a Thai spa complete with Thai therapists.
“Our guests tend to book in for between two and three nights and our most requested treatments are signature facials and massages. We have lots of return business.” Van Heerden believes that the spa’s strong selling point is the natural beauty and tranquillity of the environment. PB
Professional Beauty June 2014
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spa focus
24
F
When East meets West
parking and security. inding a luxury Thai spa When designing the spa, Kiros was in a shopping mall is one adamant that the treatment rooms be thing, but discovering that as spacious as possible, and the décor it also has a sister beauty ultra-soothing. spa, offering classic skin “I brought in images from various and body beauty treatments and only spas in Thailand and modified them a few steps away, is another. to South African needs. My idea was The Lavana journey began back in to create comfort for customers, so September 2010 when George Kiros, a our massage rooms are bigger than developer of small properties, opened general massage rooms, and we have the Lavana Thai Spa. showers in them which you wouldn’t Says Kiros: “I’ve travelled to normally get. We chose colours for the Thailand on a regular basis for many You wouldn’t expect to walls and furnishings that are calming years and am a strong believer in the find an oasis of Eastern to the eyes,” comments Kiros therapeutic benefits of Thai massage. It is one of the most effective antidotes tranquillity and serenity on Massage therapies to stress, stimulates blood circulation the lower ground level of a Visitors to Lavana Thai Spa can choose and eases arthritis and headaches. from aromatherapy, Swedish massage, busy shopping centre, but “Thai therapists are the best in sports massage, hot stone massage, the world; their techniques really are such is the case with the traditional Thai massage, Thai foot superior to the average therapist. They massage, aroma Thai massage, hot Lavana Thai Spa in grow up with this therapy – it’s like compress therapy and Indian head second nature to them. Therapists in Benmore Gardens, massage. neighbouring countries in South-East I was lucky enough to experience Johannesburg, as Asia don’t come close to the skill and the spa’s signature treatment – the expertise of their Thai counterparts. Joanna Sterkowicz aroma Thai massage. As its name “Traditionally Thai spas do not suggests, this is a mix of traditional discovers. offer luxury, only massage. I wanted Thai massage and aromatherapy to introduce to South Africa not massage so you really do get the best only Thai therapy but all kinds of of both therapies, and the cumulative effect is amazing. body massage done by Thai therapists, with luxury The treatment lasts 90 minutes, and leaves one feeling complementary elements like steam showers, Jacuzzis relaxed, flexible and detoxed. Not surprisingly, this is and infra-red saunas.” Lavana’s most requested treatment. Kiros decided on Benmore Gardens Shopping Centre All treatments are performed by qualified Thai as an ideal venue, as it combines a high-end destination therapists, sourced directly from Thailand. with passing trade. Added advantages of this locale are
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
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AT A GLANCE Opened: September 2010 Owner: George Kiros Number of therapists: 13 Size of spa in square metres: 300 Location: Benmore Gardens Shopping Centre Facilities: En-suite showers/Jacuzzis, common steam showers and infra-red saunas Number of rooms: 11 (including 3 couples’ rooms) Conscious of making the Lavana Thai Spa offering as accessible to customers as possible, Kiros chose to operate with extended business hours – from 9am to 9pm seven days a week.
The beauty side Lavana Beauty Spa came about in September 2012, as a direct result of customer demand. “We have many regular customers at Lavana Thai Spa and several of them said they would welcome the option of scheduling classic beauty treatments around their massage treatments,” explains Kiros. “Once a suitable space became available, only a few metres away from us, we were able to open Lavana Beauty Spa.” Managed by Sarita Alagha, there is a range of services available at the Beauty Spa – facials, body exfoliations, slimming treatments, depilation, lash extensions, manicures and pedicures. Brands offered at the spa include Dermalogica, Environ, Juliette Armand, Verattiva, OPI and Zoya. Kiros is currently looking into opening a new spa. This will be a combined Thai and beauty spa under one roof. PB
Contact: 011 783 0092
Professional Beauty June 2014
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hair removal equipment
28
The
hair-free zone
Lasers and IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) devices have been used for hair removal applications since the mid-1990s. They produce light energy which is absorbed into the dark pigment of the hair in order to damage the follicle, thus inhibiting re-growth. Joanna Sterkowicz looks at the latest these technologies have to offer.
M
edical aesthetic clinics or salons looking to buy lasers, IPLs or AFT (Advanced Florescence Technology) devices to add permanent hair removal treatments to their offering need to be aware of three things – proven efficacy of the device; patient safety and comfort; and potential return on what is a considerable investment. When investing in expensive equipment, not only is it the equipment that has to be taken in consideration, but the integrity of the company with whom you deal, according to Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers. “Look for a reliable supplier who you trust. Get some background on the history of the company, their level of their knowledge and how long they’ve been in business. A profile of the owners can also be helpful. If you are not sure of the integrity of the supplier then avoid doing business with them. “When buying equipment remember that price is not everything. It is easy to find low-priced equipment; it is much more difficult to find a dealer who offers high-quality equipment at a realistic price, with a proven record of reliable after-sales support. We all
know the saying: ‘A bad bargain is dear at a farthing’,” comments Olivier. She advises that when selecting a supplier, you should take note of how much interest is shown in your particular needs. You need equipment to suit the realities of your practice, so never let yourself get talked into a quick deal.
Combo technologies Radiant Healthcare distributes the Syneron product range for hair removal, which features the revolutionary elos technology. “This is a combination of light energy and bi-polar radio frequency (RF),” explains Radiant Healthcare’s Melissa Ecksteen. “The Syneron product range is safe
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hair removal equipment
29 What to consider before buying: ✔ Technical backup: Does the supplier have resident technicians; will technical work be done on site? What is the reliability of the system, manufacturer and distributor?
✔ Clinical training: Is the initial training included in the price? Who does the training? Is the training at your premises? Is it included in the price? What will be the cost of follow-up training? Is more advanced training available?
✔ Are there any hidden costs? Is installation included? Is start-up marketing material included? What is the warranty period and what does this warranty include?
✔ What is the cost of consumables – gel, tips etc? What is the expected lifetime of the consumables – eg the handpiece of an IPL system versus laser?
✔ Is there enough clinical evidence to support the product?
✔ Proof of safety and accreditation of equipment is necessary (FDA and CE).
✔ The level of satisfaction from current users.
for all skin and hair types, due to the fact that RF is colour-blind and not melanin-dependent.” Syneron has two options when it comes to hair removal – the eLase and the eStyle. The eLase is an 810nm diode laser combined with RF, working at a repetition rate of up to 10Hz, while the eStyle is an IPL (680nm – 980nm) combined with RF, which works at a repetition rate of up to 3Hz. Ecksteen continues: “Both systems offer painless hair removal at faster treatment times – this is a huge advantage for clinics as well as patients. The systems are engineered for safety, cost-effectiveness and ease of use. “These units incorporate contact cooling for patient comfort as well as active dermal monitoring to monitor skin impedance changes during each pulse for added safety. “These hair removal treatments can be done on the body as well as on the face. “As regards excessive facial hair, one must be very careful when treating such a patient as the condition may be due to a hormonal imbalance and could affect the results. R
Professional Beauty June 2014
hair removal equipment
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“Therefore it is very important to do a proper consultation with the patient and examine their medical history to make sure they are suited to the hair treatments that you offer. Patient selection is thus very important.”
Syneron’s eLase System (left) and eStyleMotif (right) are available from Radiant Healthcare.
SHR Andrew Best of Best Lasers, distributor of Soprano Ice, Soprano Xli-810nm Diode Lasers and Harmony Lite-Advanced Fluorescent Technology, describes SHR (Super Hair Removal) as: “The only clinical proven method of laser hair removal that is virtually painless”. He goes on to say that SHR has been proven in multiple clinical studies as the safest method of laser hair removal for all skin types, including dark skin, where melanin is exponentially more sensitive to the heat used in laser treatments. “SHR’s unique heating and energy delivery method effectively damages the hair follicle and prevents re-growth, while preventing injury to the surrounding tissue. At the same time, Soprano Ice, Soprano Xli and Harmony Lite technology cool the skin surface, preventing superficial burns and the sensation of pain.
Best Lasers distributes the Soprano (left) and the Harmony lite (right)
SHR’s unique heating and energy delivery method effectively damages the hair follicle and prevents re-growth, while preventing injury to the surrounding tissue. “During SHR, hair follicles are damaged not by a single pulse of high energy, but by repetitive short energy pulses. These pulses minimise the risk of burning to the skin, as it is the heat build-up which raises the temperature of the dermis to the level needed to prevent hair growth,” comments Best. He explains that rather than exposing the hair follicle to a single high-energy pulse, which can cause trauma to skin with a high melanin count, SHR gradually heats the skin until the required heat energy is delivered to the hair follicle. “This makes SHR the safest laser hair removal option, including for dark-skinned patients,” continues Best. “SHR affects the melanin of the skin using a unique method, allowing the procedure to be performed any time of the year as well as on tanned skin. Furthermore, sun exposure is less traumatic to the skin following SHR treatments.”
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
hair removal equipment
31 During SHR treatment, energy is applied over a large grid not just the region of the hair follicle. In motion technique collectively heats up and damages the hair follicle within the grid, ensuring full coverage and dramatically improving treatment results.
HIT Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier reports that the newest addition to the Lumenis flagship laser hair removal offering is the LightSheer Desire laser hair removal system. Says Olivier: “LightSheer Desire is up to 75% faster than other devices available on the market and uses Lumenis’ proprietary HIT (High-Speed Integrated Technology) and ChillTip technologies for enhanced efficacy and patient comfort. The lowfluence HIT uses a customised vacuum that reduces the treatment time by more than 75%, increases safety and efficacy and significantly increases patient comfort.” She stresses that this portable device offers an optimal solution for hair removal on all body parts and skin colours. “With Desire you are ensured of clinical effectiveness and enhanced patient comfort, at a fraction of the procedure time of other systems. This system is simple to operate and treatments are easy to perform. “I believe LightSheer Desire offers the best value proposition for the rapidly growing laser hair removal market. It is upgradable – there are three handpieces available – enabling users to add new capabilities as their practice grows. The advanced user interface allows easy treatment delegation and a quick learning curve,” comments Olivier. Lumenis also has two other lasers – the LightSheer ET with a 9x9mm treatment head, which Olivier says is the most used hair removal laser in the industry, and the LightSheer Duet with two treatment heads. “The 9x9 ET ChillTip head and enormous 22x35mm treatment head with high-speed integrated vacuum assist technology (HIT) allows the treatment to be performed with no anaesthetic or gels,” explains Olivier. “The low-fluence HIT uses a customised vacuum that reduces treatment time by more than 75%, increases safety and efficacy and significantly increases patient comfort. Various comparative studies have confirmed and proved that a treatment with a LightSheer Duet is the fastest available on the market.” R
The low-fluence HIT uses a customised vacuum that reduces treatment time by more than 75%.
Professional Beauty June 2014
hair removal equipment
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IPLs
For those interested in going the IPL route, Branislav Sucansky of BTL Medical provides some parameters.
LightSheer Desire from Hitech Lasers
All three LightSheer lasers use an 805nm diode wavelength. “This is the industry’s gold standard, clinically proven to safely and effectively treat all skin types,” says Olivier. She maintains that the cooling system of the lasers has an effect on the safety of the treatment and the comfort of the patient. “During a treatment the skin may be protected by a gel, cooling spray, cryogen or contact cooling. A recent study has shown that when cryogen cooling is used it should not be larger than a 10mm spot. With a larger spot cryogen cooling is insufficient and has adverse effects. “Contact cooling whereby a cooling tip is placed in direct contact with the skin is currently considered as the most effective cooling method because it can safely be used with a large spot size. Spot size affects the speed and penetration of the laser – the larger spot penetrates more deeply.” The Lumenis LightSheer Diode Lasers have integrated continuous contact cooling for patient comfort, while the LightSheer Duet and new LightSheer Desire Diode laser need no cooling or anaesthetics due to the new integrated vacuum-assist technology. Skin type and skin colour are of utmost importance to determine suitability for laser treatment. The lighter skin types are the easiest to treat, requiring less sessions and with faster results. Dark skin or sun-tanned skin takes longer to get results. “The best results are obtained with patients who have a large difference between the colour of their hair and the colour of their skin, ie black hair on fair skin. In treatment of these people the laser can be turned up with little risk of harming the skin. Brown hair does less well, red hair responds poorly and grey, blonde or white hair is difficult to treat,” concludes Olivier. PB
“The best results are obtained with patients who have a large difference between the colour of their hair and the colour of their skin.
“Good IPLs start with a fluence of 30J/cm2 – this value must be effectively measured on the crystal,” he says. “The homogenous distribution of the energy is very important; if the crystal is too big very often the energy distribution on the ‘sides’ is not sufficient as the flash lamp is not capable of lighting the whole area evenly. Consequently the IPL does not work properly on these areas. Moreover, high-end machines use the light reflection in a golden mirror behind the flash lamp.” Sucansky points out that if the IPL can generate the impulses quickly, the treatment time is shorter. “Most IPLs treat a spot area with one impulse only. High repetition ability is proof of the power and stability of a generator that can work for a long time without breaks under high workloads. Usual IPL frequencies are one pulse every one to two seconds (ie 1 – 0.5Hz). “Sapphire crystal is the most effective material with its high light conductivity and low loss of light energy. It is also a very good heat conductor, which is used to cool the crystal to eliminate uncomfortable and unpleasant feelings connected to the treatment and to protect the skin. Cheaper materials don’t offer these characteristics. New professional systems offer adjustable cooling of the crystal. “The filter layer can be directly on the crystal of each handpiece or there is the option of plug-in filters and one universal hand piece. Plug-in filters seem the most economic and most comfortable solution. For a targeted and effective therapy only laboratory-tested filters should be used. “Renowned producers of quality IPL systems guarantee at least 100 000 impulses per flash lamp. This is the maximum number of impulses without any loss of the performance.” With a high-quality IPL you should be able to see visible results after the first treatment, according to Sucansky. “The intensity of the light can be adjusted according to the skin type and pigment in the target tissue. Thanks to the new possibilities of being able to set the cooling, the client feels comfortable during the treatment and there is no undesired skin damage. “State-of-the-art and powerful IPLs do not need any other supportive energies or technologies in order to reach great results. And we have to bear in mind that the results and clients´ satisfaction do not only depend on a good machine, but also on the experience and care of the therapists,” comments Sucansky.
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
training
34
Pic courtesy: Camelot
The future is now
It is a well-known fact that South African-produced beauty therapists compare well with the best in the world. Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
training
35 With the next generation of beauty therapists now in training, Joanna Sterkowicz looks at the state of training in South Africa.
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ccording to Shirley Wenman of Face To Face, it is a well-known fact that South African-produced beauty therapists compare well with the best in the world. “This is confirmed by the international results published by international awarding bodies such as ITEC and City & Guilds International,” comments Wenman. “South African therapists are also much sought-after for cruise liners.” Elna Hagen, principal of Dermatech, believes that not only does local training match international standards, but in some cases it is of a much higher quality. “The length of training programmes in South Africa, for example, is much longer than the required hours set by international examination bodies,” she points out. Debbie Merdjan of the Camelot International Educational Group adds: “Our educational standards in South Africa meet, and certain training institutions far exceed, international standards, as evidenced by the fact that South African pass rates Maja Grewe with international examination bodies are excellent. I believe the reason for this is that in European countries people start studying for our profession at a very early age, and do not necessarily have the interpersonal and cognitive skills associated with more mature students. The South African work ethic is also very good, making our graduates highly employable. “In South Africa most parents aspire to have their daughters study diploma or degree courses and a lot of students enter the profession at tertiary level. A large percentage of our students specialise in the therapeutic delivery of aromatherapy, reflexology and massage therapies, which is not the norm internationally.” Maja Grewe, owner of International Academy, points out that Steiner, one of the leading cruise companies in the world, recruits staff worldwide. “It has been said on numerous occasions that South African therapists are the best-trained and the most courteous.”
qualifications. ITEC would also like to see more take-up of the Spa Therapies Diploma. “Hotel groups always approach us for spa managers. This is an area that could be developed by colleges as we do offer a Spa Management Diploma, which is mainly assignment-based, so it could be offered for CPD (Continuing Professional Development) for therapists who have been in the industry for a number of years and want to progress. The same applies to advanced skincare. As there is a huge increase in the number of medi spas, a deeper understanding of the more high-performance ingredients and treatments is very necessary. This could be used for CPD for therapists who have been in the industry for many years and would not have trained in these areas.” Says Melinda van der Walt of Helia-D International Health & Beauty Training College: “Correct training in fundamentals like business, anatomy and physiology is greatly lacking. FET (Further Education & Training) students can only do minimal practical and lack the theory content.” Wenman believes that there is a definite shortage in the local industry of sales, marketing and business acumen abilities, as well as entrepreneurial skills.
“It would be great to have a governing body through which each therapist/salon could be graded, along the lines of the Medical Council.”
Pinpointing skills
“The diversity of our profession gives graduates tremendous scope to develop skills and they are employable in many job opportunities.” Debbie Merdjan
online at www.probeauty.co.za
As to particular skills shortages in the beauty industry, ITEC examinations officer Elaine Willemse notes that facial and body electrical therapies are required by one of the largest international employers. “They are having difficulty recruiting candidates with these required skills,” continues Willemse. “We have referred them to the ITEC Colleges that offer these
Students In terms of whether South Africa is producing enough suitably trained graduates, Hagen responds in the affirmative. “The only reason why we might have a shortage is if they are leaving the country or working on cruise ships to earn better salaries.” Grewe adds: “With the latest craze of medical aesthetic practices opening on every corner, I believe we can produce more graduates. Furthermore, a lot of R
Professional Beauty June 2014
training
Pic courtesy: Face to Face
36
our therapists travel abroad. Sadly the best therapists leave the country.” Mirella Barnes, regional manager – Southern Africa, City & Guilds, maintains that while there are many learners exiting beauty schools with qualifications, the sector is growing, and more graduates will be required as the demand grows. Wenman comments: “I feel that South Africa is producing enough suitably trained beauty therapy graduates. However, this is a predominately female industry, where ladies tend to come and go – they leave to have babies or to change careers.” It’s one thing producing a healthy volume of graduates each year, but are there enough jobs to go round? “I think there are enough jobs, but some employers are paying such low salaries that the therapists would rather do something else than earn peanuts. We therefore lose very good therapists to other industries where they can earn more money without a qualification,” states Hagen. Most graduates go into the industry, according to Merdjan. “The diversity of our profession gives graduates tremendous scope to develop skills and they are employable in many job opportunities.” There are always job availabilities, and if students have the correct qualifications they do get positions, says Willemse. “We’ve noticed that therapists are not very loyal and do move around from salon/spa to salon/ spa.” Van der Walt adds: “Jobs are available however salons are not keen to employ sub-standard graduates.” Barnes makes the point that while students are keen to learn, the way they learn has changed. “Therefore learning interventions need to change with the times, ie e-learning, smartphone apps and digital content.” Merdjan agrees that students have definitely changed and want instant gratification. “They are not as researchoriented as before and many want instant solutions without going through the process of developing their skills.” Van der Walt finds students of today less keen to learn. “It’s a case of quick training to make quick money.” The South African educational system has not helped matters, says Wenman. “Learners have not been taught to think, as the disciplinary system no longer allows the learner to take responsibility for their actions.”
Professional Beauty June 2014
training
37 Accreditation Pic courtesy: Face to Face
Only if a training provider is registered with the Department of Higher Education and Training (DHET) as well as a governing body such as the Council of Higher Education or the Services Sector Education & Training Authority, can their courses be accredited. “As in any industry or sector there will always be training providers offering sub-standard training,” says Grewe, “so I urge engagement with the industry to inform them what training standards should be. A database of all salons and therapists could help solve this problem. It would be great to have a governing body through which each therapist/salon could be graded, along the lines of the Medical Council.” Merdjan stresses that all unaccredited schools should be reported to the DHET. “It is illegal to operate as a provider of education if
you are not registered with either the DHET or Umalusi, with a programme registered on the Higher Education Qualifications Framework (HEQF) and SAQA or accredited by one of the SETAs. One also needs to educate members of the public to only study at accredited schools.” Wenman believes that most beauty schools are now registered with the relevant authorities in South Africa as there has been quite a lot of education about choosing accredited schools. “However, there are certain operations that offer short or parttime courses in modules from courses that are not accredited, especially in
nail technology, makeup short courses and courses that promote products that the operation is marketing,” she explains. Hagen stresses that it is vital that the amount of students, or the size of the group receiving practical training from one lecturer, should be kept small. “I believe this is a critical point, because the practical side of the course is very important and makes up a large part of a beauty therapist’s studies.” There is a general consensus that there is a shortage of trainers with the correct qualifications. Says Van der Walt: “Trainers are not paid properly and colleges use trainees from the year before to teach.” To become a lecturer one needs to complete a Train the Trainer Teaching Programme as well as assessors and moderators programmes. One can also attain a B.Tech degree in Post-School Education. PB
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Anti Agex Serum from PhamaClinix is an intense night repair serum with an advanced complex formulation for preand post-aesthetic procedures such as micro-dermabrasion, chemical peels, derma-rolling, IPL and laser treatments, Botox, muscle relaxants and fillers. It repairs wrinkles, sun-damaged skin and hyperpigmentation.
031 829 3847
011 268 0018
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
serums
39
Vitamin-rich Dr. Gobac Vitamin A Serum is specifically formulated to remobilise the skin’s own healing mechanism. Retinyl Palmitate, a precursor of Vitamin A, controls and stimulates the growth, migration and adhesion of epidermal cells, and protects skin against infections. It is photostable and therefore won’t cause irritation to skin exposed to sunlight.
011 314 9222
Turbo boost RégimA’s Super Smoother offers dual hyaluronic action and is used daily as the ultimate ‘turbo-boost’ moisturising home care product. It is suitable for use with insalon treatments such as radio frequency and galvanic and is perfect for post-skin peel care. Super Smoother enhances the action and length of function of injectable fillers such as restylane.
011 615 2869
serums
40 Retinol emulsion
Your appointment with plastic surgery is postponed! DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED * PARABENS FREE * MINERAL OIL FREE PROPYLENE GLYCOL FREE * ALLERGEN FREE
Pevonia Spa Clinica MicroRetinol Essential Serum comprises a micronised retinol emulsion that allows for easy, rapid absorption and targeted delivery within the deeper dermal layers, re-stabilising the skin’s normal functions. The serum contains Vitamins C and E, and hyaluronic acids for further brightening, lightening and improvement of skin evenness.
011 238 7080
Hydration deluxe Suitable for all skin types, CSpa Hydrating-Boosting Serum doubles as a layering product to use under day or night moisturisers for boosted hydration. Hydra-Boosting Serum is an essential oil elixir containing enriched moisturising properties. It helps to condition the skin, while hydrating and revitalising stressed and ageing skin.
011 880 3850
‘Lift’ off Thavma Lift Antiwrinkle Serum is part of Juliette Armand’s Skin Boosters range and was created as an answer to Botox. The serum has a very powerful moisturising and firming action, which helps to reduce expression lines and dark circles. Its key active ingredient, Effectox, helps to combat wrinkles and expression lines caused by muscle contractions.
JULIETTE ARMAND
|
011 033 0500
info@poisebrands.co.za, TEL: +27 11 033 0500 w w w . j u l i e t t e a r m a n d . c o . z a Professional Beauty June 2014
professional beauty durban
42
Professional Beauty
Durban a hit
Feedback from exhibitors at the recent Professional Beauty Durban Expo, which attracted 3615 visitors and comprised 47 stands, points to a successful and vibrant show.
T
he latest trends in skincare, body care, nails, hair, medical aesthetics and non-surgical devices were showcased on May 18 and 19 at the show, the region’s premier event for the beauty industry, held at the ICC. Cornelius Koopman of eyeSlices reports that the company had not exhibited at Professional Beauty Durban since it was a one-day show. “The two-day show “Our sales were was much better in terms of sales triple what they were and leads. On Sunday we were a few years ago at our overwhelmed with visitors and last show. We sold out interest. If we’d had double the amount of promoters on the of promotional packs by stand, we would have doubled able to turn 10% of those contacts lunchtime on Monday and our sales. People were queuing into sales I will be elated.” sold packages and products, to buy and view eyeSlices.” Milk Solutions had a ‘really 80% of which were paid Koopman notes that his team worthwhile’ show, according to for upfront.” took opening orders from salons sales and training manager Sonette Cornelius Koopman and spas at the show. “These were van Rensburg: of eyeSlices the decision-makers of course. Fifty “The show was fantastic for us as a percent of visitors said they’d seen our brand,” continues Van Rensburg. “I found adverts in Professional Beauty magazine that our new image and branding really drew and were excited to visit our stand. people to our stand. This included existing clients as well as Says Trevor Vosloo of SharTre plenty of new customers, who showed interest in taking on Distribution: “I must say we were quite the range in their salons and spas. impressed by the interest in our stand. We “Our team of trained professionals, who were geared up to had a steady stream of visitors over both educate visitors about Milk Solutions and demonstrate how days. There was no time to even sit down, to use the products, added to our successful presence at the which I think was great. show.” “We are always looking for salons to Says Eduard Scholtz of Bio Sculpture Gel: “We did not train their staff through us so that we participate at last year’s show so we can’t compare with that, can sell our products to those salons and but we are very happy with how the 2014 show panned out for were delighted to sign up three people for us. The quality of visitor was up to expectations and not only training courses. I also have a list of about did we sell products off the stand, we were also able to sign 100 potential leads to follow up. If we are up new distributors as well.”
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty durban
43 “The show met my expectations in terms of the volume of visitors to my stand and I found the quality of visitor high.”
the global leader in eyelash extensions
This was the first-ever show for Reema Maharaj Nadleen Singh from of Lay’s Beauty Nail Works Distribution. “My stand was quite busy and I met a lot of people who were very interested in my products. I was pleased with the number of visitors to my stand and with the quality of those visitors. I was also able to sell products off my stand.” Also exhibiting at Professional Beauty Durban for the first time was Zakhiya Rajab of Femme 9.
“I built up some great contacts at the show and had good leads in terms of possible distributors. Femme 9 certainly sparked lots of interest and I managed to sell some units from the stand,” comments Rajab. Reema Maharaj of Lay’s Beauty found the Sunday of the show very good in terms of the number of visitors, with Monday less busy. “The show met my expectations in terms of the volume of visitors to my stand and I found the quality of visitor high. I was not only able to sign new distributors but also to sell products off durban my stand,” says Maharaj. PB
The Xtreme Lashes 2-Day Training Workshop • Our exclusive programme is designed and created by Xtreme Lashes, USA, to promote full comprehension of the eyelash extension concepts and techniques. • Xtreme Lashes Eyelash Extensions are for professional use only • We are the preferred choice of celebrities, the press, media and consumers worldwide.
For further information, contact: Penny: 082 312 0564 info@xtremelashes.co.za www.xtremelashes.co.za Professional Beauty June 2014
For more information contact: Tel: +27 (0) 11 880 3850/1 Fax: +27(0) 86 532 1265 sales@marinespadistributors.co.za
nails
45
Finishing
touches
For your nail business to continue being successful you need to constantly keep up to date with industry trends and offer clients that little something extra to ensure they keep coming back, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
W
ith new nail salons constantly popping up and offering a variety of beauty related services to attract clients to their salons, it is becoming more and more challenging to ensure the success of your business. Each client has their own specific needs as well as high expectations. Some may require a quiet, peaceful environment purely to relax and rejuvenate, while others may need a quick service during their lunch break. No matter which option your client chooses, she still deserves the best possible service.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Assessing the client carefully through consultation will allow you to determine what needs to be done. This gives you the ideal opportunity to recommend an add-on service or product to ensure a better end result. Tell your client what to expect from their service and treatment and explain how long it will last and what their commitment would be to ensure service longevity. Take the seasons into consideration and think of what you can offer to make sure they get the best benefit R
Professional Beauty June 2014
nails
46 from a service during that time. The winter months are an ideal time to focus on offering extra added services and recommending after care products to assist with dry, dehydrated and cracked cuticles, skin and nails. By the time the weather starts warming up, your clients will have summer-ready feet to pop back into those gorgeous strappy heels, and soft, smooth hands as well as nails that are in tip-top condition.
from shaping the nails and performing cuticle care to the final touches, such as massaging in hand lotion and applying polish. Basic treatments – these are quick, no fuss services that are performed to shape the nails and maintain the condition of the cuticles, preparing them as a canvas for the perfect polish. Deluxe treatments – these use more intensive moisturising products to treat cuticles, nails and skin. Scrubs or exfoliants are also used to slough away dry skin cells. Heat treatments – include hot towels, electric mittens, booties and Lavashell massage. Paraffin wax treatments can help increase the penetration of oils and lotions deeper into the skin for maximum hydration. Spa treatments – these are of benefit to the skin and nails as well as the client’s personal wellbeing. They focus on areas such as relaxation, detoxification, upliftment, therapeutic skin repair and renewal, intensive hydration, and indulgence of the senses. Remember that spa treatments have a very specific
To differentiate your salon and treatments from others add those special touches and elements that will turn your offerings from ordinary to extraordinary.
Treatment offerings and add-ons Although treatments can be customised to suit a client’s specific needs, all the basic techniques for any treatment remain the same. What makes a treatment unique and different are the products used, along with specialised techniques and equipment, to take it from a basic service to a more luxurious and beneficial treatment. No matter what treatment you are performing, there are basic techniques and steps that still apply to achieve the most professional, efficient and effective results. So make sure you follow through with utmost care and diligence,
Product innovation
Here are some of the latest product innovations for hands, feet and nails
± The Ralo Cosmetics Professional Nail Care Range currently offers six professional quality nail care products. Enriched with keratin, the Base Coat aids in the prevention of staining and yellowing of nails. Ridge Filler is applied prior to applying nail polish colour to smooth out surface imperfections, while the Cuticle Oil gently nourishes and hydrates cuticles. Quick Dry Top Coat is formulated to dry within seconds, reducing the chances of smudging. The Matte and Glitter Top Coats offer additional protection and longevity, as well as exciting finish variation.
LCN – Natural Nail Boost Gel is a light cured, overlay gel in a bottle that provides a protecting and stablising coating to create a perfect base for nail polish. Solvent resistant, it balances the nail plate, providing protection and strength. The extremely thin, transparent film grows out over time and can be refreshed again in a manicure after about three weeks.
Professional Beauty June 2014
Milk Solutions offers Heel Peel, an alkaline solution specifically designed to melt away and assist in the effective removal of unsightly calluses. This is a great add-on to a pedicure service and contains nourishing oils and naturally derived waxes. It can be used together with the paraben-free Milk & Honey range of hand and foot care products, which includes a lettuce Repair Serum to repair and restore the skin.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
47
The Original Permanent
Nail Colour System
purpose. Many of the products available today contain active ingredients, which perform certain functions and encourage the activity of the skin. They can: • Improve skin tone through hyperemia. • Remove waste products, effectively assisting with the detoxifying process. • Supply oxygen to the blood and capillaries and increase warmth to the tissues, resulting in a healthier looking and glowing skin. • Stimulate cell activity within the dermal layers of the skin and provide a rich supply of blood and nutrients and assist in cell renewal and regeneration.
Create an experience To differentiate your salon and treatments from others add those special touches and elements that will turn your offerings from ordinary to extraordinary. It’s all about creating a memorable experience for your client. Try and make it a completely sensory experience by incorporating all the senses, such as sound, sight, smell, taste and touch. Below are some ideas to set the mood: • Beautiful music – anything from soft meditation to something a little more jazzy, depending on the mood you want to set. • Candles, aroma oils and incense burners – the aroma of scented candles coupled with soft flickering lights, really creates a relaxing ambience. • Flowers, petals or stones in water or strategically placed in the salon or spa have a very calming and soothing effect. • Warm, moist or cool scented towels are welcoming and an immediate relaxer. • Using colour or themes to do up a treatment room or area, and changing these on a regular basis, has become one of the latest trends.
®
The final touch Once the manicure or pedicure is complete, the client will want to choose a nail polish or coating to complete her service. If your polish application is not perfect, it will affect the client’s perception of the entire treatment and service. There are amazing nail polish brands available – from Morgan Taylor, to Essie, OPI, LCN and Seche Vite. Make sure you have a good selection of the latest colours and always remember to use your polishes as a system, ie using the same base and top coats as the colour to ensure service longevity. In closing, nail salons should always remember that the smallest things make the biggest difference. PB
Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
Professional Beauty June 2014
®
Smoke & Mirrors nail collection
Everything you need,
from root to tip! Some attractions at the biggest event in the hairdressing industry
# # # #
Live stage presentations and demonstrations Innovation in cutting, colouring and styling Latest products and equipment
Exclusive product launches and show offers
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JOHANNESBURG
ion alh in: Johannesburg air.c o.za ee. f at: Gallagher Convention Centre e c a nd s a ve the R75 on-site entran on: 31 August and 1 September 2014
hair news
Crowning glory
49
Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Packing a punch Mitch is introducing a powerful player to its line-up of high performance products – Heavy Hitter Deep Cleansing Shampoo. Heavy Hitter lathers up quickly and delivers maximum clean, powering away dirt, grease and build-up. Great for daily use, it invigorates and deep-cleans without stripping natural oils and has a refreshing cedar and agave scent. It is ideal for men with normal to oily hair types.
011 305 1600
Blondes have more fun Lively shampoo The Vivid purifying, detoxifying shampoo from Mediceuticals combines the trademarked PureZero complex with a gentle SLS-free formula. It removes chlorine and cosmetic residues. Vivid’s colour retention complex protects hair from fading and UVA/UVB damage and gives it a radiant shine. The natural apple cider vinegar acidifies scalp and hair. Vivid is suitable for pre- and post-chemical services and is an ideal swimmer’s shampoo.
011 305 1600
With the relaunch of Blondme, Schwarzkopf Professional empowers hairdressers to create the most sophisticated and iconic shades of blonde with a new level of perfection. Containing KeraLamination Technology, the range comprises Keratin Restore Blonde Shampoo, Keratin Restore Blonde Conditioner, Keratin Restore Blonde Mask, Shine Enhancing Spray Conditioner, Colour-Enhancing Blonde Shampoo, Colour-Correcting Spray Conditioner and Colour-Enhancing Blonde Shampoo.
011 203 0700
Hair-straightening products caution
C
ertain hair-straightening products can cause serious health risks, according to the Cosmetic Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa (CTFA). Hair products containing formaldehyde or formaldehyde donors are categorised as toxic in many countries, including South Africa. These products release a gas when heat is applied to the hair in the form of straightening irons. This gas is dangerous to the lungs and is carcinogenic in nature. Certain
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brands have been known to feature ‘formaldehyde-free’ on their packaging when in fact the products contain alternative actives that release the same toxic fumes as formaldehyde-containing products. The CTFA does not support hairdressing salon processes using formaldehyde or formaldehyde donor products due to the proven dangers and safety issues for consumers and technicians alike.
011 795 4272
Professional Beauty June 2014
skin conditions
51
Keratosis in focus Sometimes mistaken for moles, keratosis is a common skin condition that skin practitioners encounter, with the most common lesion type being related to sun exposure. Janine Thomson takes a detailed look at the wide variety of these lesions.
sa Nigra Dermatosis Papulo
K
Seborrheic Ke ratosis
eratosis refers to the excessive production of keratinised cells. Also known as seborrheic verruca or senile wart, seborrheic keratoses are benign skin growths that originate in the keratinocytes of the epidermis. These ‘barnacles of old age’ vary in colour from yellow to light brown to black, are round or oval, slightly elevated and vary in size. They are not rooted into the dermis and there is no blood feeding these lesions. Once identified correctly (a Skinlite I is the perfect tool to identify lesions as it views 2mm beneath the skin), keratoses can be easily and safely removed. Dermatosis papulosa nigra – aka fibromas or seborrheic keratosis, is associated with Fitzpatrick Skin Types V & VI. This condition comprises small, benign lesions or fibromas that are prevalent in Asian and African skin. These lesions are darkly pigmented without scales, and are found most commonly on the face around the eyes, on the cheeks and neck area.
Prevention Using sun protection and wearing protective gear is the best prevention against kerastosis. These unsightly and uncomfortable lesions (also common under the bra area) are all epidermal and are not rooted into the dermis. If a direct current or cautery method is used, scarring does occur, however with a radio/high frequency combination (as with the Lamprobe), no scarring or hypo-pigmentation occurs. This therefore makes it a very safe treatment for Asian and dark African skin. All Fitzpatrick Skin Types are indicated for the removal of these skin irregularities.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Actinic Solar Ke ratosis
Keratosis is very common on all skin types and on darker skin types it appears in adolescence and increases with age. It is imperative for all skin types to protect the skin with a broad spectrum UVA & UVB sunscreen preand post-treatment, regardless of skin colour.
Solar kerastosis Also known as actinic kerastosis, solar keratosis is a sun-related, pre-cancerous growth noted typically in Fitzpatrick Skin Types 1 & 2. It is benign (non-malignant) and appears as crusty, dry scaly bumps that are roughly textured, like sandpaper, and accompanied by redness. If left untreated, actinic keratosis can develop into squamous cell carcinoma and must be treated by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon. Beauty therapists are seeing these lesions more often in their treatments in fair-skinned individuals, where the clients have had excessive sun exposure over many years. PB
Janine Thomson is a qualified somatologist, and holds the sole agency for the distribution and training of Lamprobe in Southern Africa. Email her on janine@lamprobe.co.za
Professional Beauty June 2014
medical aesthetics
52
Under
the knife
Practitioners who offer non-surgical facial and skin procedures compete in the same market as cosmetic surgeons. Dr Chetan Patel reveals the top cosmetic surgery trends.
T
he last survey of plastic surgeons worldwide was conducted in 2010, with just under 700 out of 20 000 questionnaires completed. So clearly exact statistics mean very little, but there are general trends that can be
extrapolated. Outpatient surgical procedures are definitely on the increase. Non-surgical procedures, especially Botulinum toxin injections, followed by hyaluronic acid injections (fillers), are the leading procedures requested in regions worldwide. There are definite geographic patterns in the top cosmetic procedures performed, but breast augmentation and lipoplasty (liposuction) remain at the top of the surgical list.
Trends in South Africa mirror worldwide trends, albeit on a smaller scale. Outpatient surgical procedures which can be done in the ‘chair’ or office, as opposed to hospital, are gaining in popularity. Non-surgical facial and skin procedures remain top of the list when it comes to numbers of procedures performed, because clients are seeing visible results with relatively low downtime. Not only is office-based surgery becoming popular, but day-case surgery in smaller surgical centres is also on the increase. This is particularly true of cosmetic surgery, where privacy and attention are important considerations for clients.
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
medical aesthetics
53 There are definite geographic patterns in the top cosmetic procedures performed, but breast augmentation and lipoplasty (liposuction) remain at the top of the surgical list. BlepharoplastyUpper and lower eyelid rejuvenation is ideally suited to being performed in the office or chair. Local anaesthetic with or without specialist anaesthetist-controlled sedation will be administered for your comfort. Candidates are those who have excess skin in the upper eyelids and sagging skin or bags of the lower eyelids. Potential risks are bruising, scarring issues with respect to visibility, and healing time (approximately five to seven days before make-up will cover effectively).
LabiaplastyLabiaplasty or outer vaginal rejuvenation has become a popular procedure. A few points to note: cosmetic surgery of the genital area in females deals primarily with the external genitalia – ie labia, mons (pubic area) and associated skin of the outer vagina. The procedure itself neatens the labia minor (inner lips), with additions to the procedure being liposuction of the mons and fat grafting to the labia major (outer lips) in order to improve the aesthetic appearance. Sedation and local anaesthesia control pain and allow this procedure to be comfortably performed in an outpatient setting. ‘G-spot’ enhancement does not form part of the surgery (this is more hype than actual reality), although increased sensitivity of the clitoris may occur due to increased exposure from labial neatening.
Surgical tattoo removal Tattoo removal is a commonly requested procedure and is the only 100% guaranteed procedure to remove tattoos. Surgical excision removes the entire affected area by removing all of the skin and then achieving closure by carefully suturing the skin edges together. A combination of surgical excision and laser therapy is also available in tattoos that are not amenable to being cut out, eg those that are too large or those that are in anatomical areas where the resultant scar from the excision is not desirable. A common misconception is that the scar which may result will be worse than the tattoo. Scars take time to heal, and most scars treated in the appropriate manner will be inconspicuous after six months. Depending on the size, surgical excision of tattoos can be done under local anaesthetic alone and rarely require sedation. It is important to consult a plastic surgeon to discuss what your options are. Chetan Patel is a Johannesburg consultant plastic and reconstructive surgeon, based at Sandton Mediclinic in Bryanston. A graduate of WITS University, Patel obtained his Fellowship in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery from the College of Surgeons of South Africa in 2009.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
LipoplastyA commonly performed office-based surgery is lipoplasty. It’s important to remember that liposuction is a contouring procedure and not a weight loss or ‘drop-a-dress-size’ procedure. So, although clients who are close to their ideal weights are better candidates, it is the expectation of the result that must be discussed very closely with the surgeon. Outpatient liposuction is usually performed under sedation controlled by an anaesthetist. The amount that can safely be liposuctioned should be limited and is best discussed during the consultation. Love handles, lower abdomen, inner knees, and neck and chin areas are suited to outpatient liposuction. A common misconception regarding liposuction is that it is unsafe, but any procedure has potential risks. It is important to discuss those risks with a qualified professional (eg plastic surgeon). Get answers to the following: recovery from the procedure; expectations of the result; and who will look after your sedation (eg specialist qualified anaesthetist – see Soundasleep.co.za).
LiposculptureA fat grafting procedure, liposculpture entails the removal and processing of fat followed by immediate re-injection into sites where it will markedly influence the effects of aging. Commonly injected sites are facial areas around the eyes, mouth, in the cheeks, temples, brow, backs of the hands and outer labia in the genital area. Fat grafting can be performed almost anywhere in the body where augmentation is desired (breasts or buttocks), as well as where there are contour defects and where skin rejuvenation is required. It is permanent and the effects long-lasting. This procedure is performed under sedation and locally injected anaesthetic to provide maximum comfort for smaller areas and under general anaesthesia in an operating room for larger areas (breasts and buttocks). PB
Professional Beauty June 2014
medical aesthetics
55
In pursuit of a
youthful neckline Many South African women develop marked signs of ageing in the neck and décolleté areas due to continual sun exposure. Karen Ellithorne speaks to industry experts to find out what treatment modalities achieve optimal results on these delicate areas.
D
r Natasha Chapman, an aesthetic doctor at Laserderm, recommends a series of Fraxel laser treatments for neck and décolleté. “Fraxel is very effective at removing sun damage, building up collagen, resurfacing poor skin
online at www.probeauty.co.za
texture, and softening fine lines and wrinkles,” says Chapman. “Typically, a ‘fraction’ of the skin is treated at each session so that healing time is acceptable, and a few sessions are usually needed to achieve a good rejuvenation of the area. “Another very effective technology is Ulthera skin R
Professional Beauty June 2014
medical aesthetics
56 tightening treatments, which are immediate without scarring or used by many celebrities to tighten Common characteristics hypopigmentation, because the jawlines, necks, and lift jowls and current used is not a direct current of a neglected décolleté are foreheads. It is known as the ‘nonbut radio frequency. Therefore fine wrinkling on the upper surgical face and neck lift’ and these lesions can be safely and chest and in the crease of the effects can last for up to five years. effectively removed on all skin cleavage, brown spots, thinning Many patients are having Ulthera types,” says Thompson. skin and redness. Most of treatments rather than undergoing the surgical knife, and others are these can be attributed to sun Peeling trying to delay having a facelift for “Chemical peels rejuvenate the damage, says Dr. Diane Madfes, as long as possible. skin from the outside and help a dermatologist in New York “A brand new treatment protocol treat the loss of elasticity and City. Décolleté skin is thinner, has just been released which now collagen,” says Justine Campbell has fewer oil glands and is includes treatment of the décolleté. from Conquest Aesthetics. By using Ulthera’s ultrasound energy more sensitive than the skin on For overall rejuvenation, a to stimulate fibroblasts in the dermal superficial combination peel like the face, making it vulnerable layer of the skin, new collagen is the Dermaceutic Milk Peel, which to irritation as well as sun formed, leading to thicker, healthier consists of glycolic acid 50%, lactic damage. skin and fewer lines and wrinkles,” acid 10% and salicylic acid 4%, Source: www.besthealthmag.ca says Chapman. will target and treat a variety of She notes that she gets her best aspects of the skin and will restore results by combining Ulthera and a radiant skin tone, treat superficial Fraxel laser treatment. “We are now able to treat superficial and wrinkles, provide epidermal stimulation, and deep layers of the skin, leading to a marked improvement in the smooth and soften the skin. quality of the skin in both the neck and décolleté. Complementary Mesoestetic’s trainer Claudeen Krause treatments, such as Carboxy therapy, or the ‘miracle gas’, recommends that clients begin the treatment injected at two-weekly intervals after Fraxel treatments, lead to protocol of the neck and décolleté by first even better overall results,” explains Chapman. prepping the skin with a mild peel such as Skincare therapist Janine Thomson uses a variety of different Mesoestetic modified Jessner, containing modalities for corrective cosmetic treatments. For Poikiloderma, salicylic, citric and lactic acid. She advises a diffuse redness and pigmentation commonly affecting the neck avoiding deeper peels on the neck due to and décolleté area, Thomson’s preference is to first diagnose the increased risk of scarring because of the skin with a Skinlite to identify the vascularity and pigmented delicate, thin nature of the skin in this area. lesions so that she can best advise her clients on a treatment “Chemical peels need to be performed with protocol. IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) is her preference for the safe caution on the neck and décolleté. Regular flat pigmented lesions, and, once the pigment has lifted, she mild peels will likely lead to an improvement in then concentrates on the diffuse redness, also using the IPL on a the texture of the skin, and may remove some vascular setting. superficial sun damage,” agrees Chapman. “Four weeks later, I treat “At Laserderm, we usually use salicylic acid or any remaining spider naevi or lactic acid, and combine chemical peels with telangiectasia that the light other treatments to give optimal results.” therapy treatment failed to treat with a radio frequency Microneedling device called the Lamprobe,” Krause suggests that microneedling be says Thomson. conducted, using a 1mm-1.5mm needle device She uses the Lamprobe in combination with retinol and Vitamin C on all skin tags (flat or ampoules. raised on stalks) under “Alternate the two ingredients for excellent Before the breasts or around the collagen induction capacity. Retinol stimulates neck. “This modality is my preference as the results are
top left: Acanthosis nigricans Before After
left: Dermelan Acanthosis nigricans After
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
medical aesthetics
57 Ingredients for mesotherapy Restructuring and cell regeneration: ◆ Amino acids glycine, lysine, threonine and proline stimulate the production of collagen fibres and organise triple helix structure. ◆ Minerals zinc and copper are essential for DNA synthesis, cell division and are a source of new cells.
fibroblasts and L-ascorbic acid acts as a co-factor for enzymes responsible for collagen biosynthesis,” continues Krause. “Mesoestetic provides these actives in the form of sterile ampoules at the correct concentrations and pH for optimal delivery and effect. Treatments can be conducted every week on severely aged skin or every 4-6 weeks as a maintenance protocol for younger skin.” Chapman explains that microneedling works in a similar way to Fraxel laser, but more superficially. “Tiny needles make small injuries and entry portals into the skin. Applying serums containing active anti-aging and hydrating ingredients immediately after a microneedling treatment will ensure optimal penetration of these ingredients to a deeper level in the skin. At Laserderm we use 0.5 and 1mm needles and serums containing growth factors, peptides and hyaluronic acid.”
Mesotherapy and fillers Campbell suggests mesotherapy using hyaluronic acid, such as Teosyal Redensity 1. “This product combines a unique concept between filling and mesotherapy to rejuvenate the skin. Teosyal is made up of hyaluronic acid and a derma-restructuring complex, which contains eight amino acids, two minerals and one vitamin. It also has the additional benefit of containing lidocaine to assist with patient comfort during the treatment. The combination of these ingredients will lead to a visible action of cutaneous redensification,” she says.
Cosmeceauticals and home care “Products are prescribed according to the needs of each individual patient. If resurfacing of the skin is required, products containing retinol or lactic acid are recommended,” says Krause. She adds that for premature aging, growth factors and peptides that stimulate collagen production are used and that without a doubt, sunblock is always the most important product one can use on a daily basis. Chapman insists that the aftercare protocol should involve daily use of a good broad spectrum UVA & UVB protection as well as protecting the skin from future oxidative processes by incorporating the use of a high-quality antioxidant. “Neck and décolleté skin needs to be maintained and a great way to keep the skin healthy is to do 1mm derma rolling treatments at home to keep the fibroblasts active and thereby create healthier skin,” concludes Chapman. PB
online at www.probeauty.co.za
◆ Vitamin B6 is non-allergenic, a co-factor in 140 chemical reactions in the cell, and essential for energy production for cell metabolism in the dermis. ◆ Amino acids isoleucine, leucine, and valine are involved in the healing process and tissue remodelling.
Antioxidant protection: ◆ Glutathion ◆ N-Acetyl-L-cysteine is essential for glutathion synthesis. ◆ Aphalipoic acid recycles the glutathion and increases its lifespan.
Skin hydration: ◆ Hyaluronic acid 15mg/g. ◆ For in-depth hydration arginine is an amino acid that regulates hydration of the upper layers.
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
Professional Beauty June 2014
product news
58
In the market Our round-up of newly launched products and innovations.
Youth elixir r Positioned as a youth and beauty elixir, Booster Collagene from Thalgo helps to maintain normal collagen synthesis and protects against oxidative damage. It is a drinkable rejuvenating concentrate that combines a peptan marine collagen hydrolysate with proven efficacy on reducing micro-wrinkles and deep wrinkles. It contains hyaluronic acid and protective antioxidants (Vitamins C and E and selenium).
011 880 3850
Flash radiance
Stem cell power
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Cell Expert – one of Matis’s bestselling products – celebrates its first anniversary this year. This signature product includes the exclusive Matis active ingredient, the MatiStem CC. Positioned as a beauty elixir; this product will protect the environment of the skin stem cells and help to prolong their capacity to initiate the cell renewal process.
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Gatineau’s Activ Eclat range of skincare products has been specially formulated to restore an intense natural glow to dull, tired-looking skin. Suitable for all skin types and ages, this range counteracts the effects of harmful external factors, such as UV exposure, tobacco and pollution, which deprive the skin of its natural glow.
021 701 2900
011 305 1600
Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
product news
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Cherryink Eyelash Enhancer is made from an advanced formula with clinically proven results to increase growth of eyelashes and eyebrow hairs. This hypoallergenic product comprises 100% natural ingredients and has undergone ophthalmologist and dermatalogical testing. It is safe for contact lens wearers.
082 461 6959
Invigorating shower gel
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Thicker, longer lashes R
Mio QuickStart exfoliating shower gel comprises amazing ingredients at maximum levels for high intensity, exhilarating cleansing. Ingredients include coconut-derived cleansers, spearmint oil, witch hazel, V-Tonic (a mega-uplifing blend including oils of spearmint leaf, citrus lemon peel oil, cypress leaf, menthol and lavender), organic lemon extract, organic grapefruit extract and caffeine.
011 033 0500
Breathable foundation r Oxygenetix Institute introduces the first gel-based oxygenating foundation formulated exclusively for physicians and professionals. This special blue base/yellow base colour matching system works with specific skin tones to reduce or eliminate post-surgical discolorations, while allowing the patient to heal and feel more confident in public. Once the patient has completely recovered, continued use will help protect and improve skin tone.
011 706 2518
Sponges galore R The Konjac Sponge Company introduces the 6 Wave Body Sponge for dry skin. This 100% natural vegetable fibre sponge has added French red clay, and is ideal for deep cleansing and exfoliation, while it refines pores and conditions the skin. Also from Konjac is the Puff Sponge, which is nature’s enriching yet powerfully effective answer to premium skin cleansing.
077 240 3719
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Professional Beauty June 2014
product news
60 Available in two natural shades, Coverderm’s Complete Care Colour Correctors, with 12 superpowered active ingredients, even and brighten skin tone, while nourishing, moisturising and soothing the skin. The face cream controls sebum, tightens pores and treats facial redness, while the eye cream is specially formulated to treat dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles.
012 460 1220
Tasty lip balms
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Double ‘C’ r
The new flavoured lip balms from Africology contain the purest and most natural ingredients that leave lips silky soft and nourished. There are three flavours in the range – Vanilla, Strawberry and Blue Gum – and each contains an all-natural blend of Shea butter, Marula oil, rose-hip oil and lavender.
011 791 6890
Dermaceutic R Regen Ceutic Skin Recovery Cream from Dermaceutic Laboratoire accelerates epidermal restoration post aesthetic treatments. It targets redness, irritation, dehydrated skin and aging skin. It combines two high-performance repairing peptides to stimulate dermal synthesis. Hyaluronic acid and powerful antioxidants hydrate and help the skin to protect and restore itself.
Pure expertise
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Luxury hotel toiletries
Payot Laboratories has developed Expert Pureté with treatment skin solutions for combination to oily skins at all ages. This non-comedogenic range is based on a careful selection of active ingredients, including Chilean mint extract, which is recognised for its potent sebum-regulating benefits. Other ingredients are AHA esters, glycolic acid and rose fruit extract.
021 702 3466
Professional Beauty June 2014
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011 706 2518
Therapy, the latest range of hotel toiletries from luxury brand Charlotte Rhys, delivers anti-oxidant protection against the harmful effect of pollution and UV stress. Vitaminboosted nourishing formulations make the range particularly suitable for warm climates and coastal regions. Refreshingly natural, cool and elegant with a fresh tantalising fragrance and sleek opaque packaging, this range is eco- and vegan-friendly, Beauty Without Cruelty approved, and handcrafted.
021 702 1338
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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saahsp
62 Cidesco Section South Africa
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
East Rand Chapter convenes student seminar
Why become a SAAHSP member? How will not being a designated member affect therapists? At this stage SAAHSP is a non-statutory body but plans to become selfregulating. Once this happens the industry will put pressure on employers and employees to become members and designated members.
Will they earn more if they are accredited?
S
ome 300 beauty therapy students from the Gauteng region attended a seminar held on 14 April at Nu Metro Emperor’s Palace and convened by the East Rand Chapter of SAAHSP. The overriding message of the seminar was that on-going learning throughout a therapist’s career is essential to their professional success and career longevity. Founder member of SAAHSP and former president of Cidesco (International Beauty Therapy Association) Helene Bramwell stressed the importance of the Spa Therapies qualification in ensuring that therapists have a sound, all-round knowledge of the industry they are about to enter. “Education is never complete, because the goalposts move all the time. It’s the students of today – the therapists of tomorrow – who have to keep up to date and attend events like the Cidesco World Congress in Sandton next May. We are all in the business of trying to make people feel better about themselves. “I believe the therapist is central to many of the medical and paramedical disciplines. In our practices we identify skin and health problems and can refer them to relevant health and medical professionals. These
include physiotherapists, pharmacists, gynaecologists, dermatologists, dieticians, podiatrists, psychologists, homeopaths and chiropractors. Cidesco’s philosopy is that you can’t isolate yourself,” stated Bramwell. Karen Ellithorne of Spa & Salon Solutions told the students that while therapists have evolved over the years, so too have clients. “They want results; they are informed and don’t mind painful treatments and downtime. So it’s very important for you young students to stay ahead of your game. As beauty therapists our competition is the medical doctors who provide instant gratification in the form of toxins and dermal fillers. Like beauty clinics, doctors are now also offering laser and IPL treatments.” Ellithorne advised students to keep up to date and read a lot, as well as develop an opinion because beauty clients read a lot on the internet. “Position yourself as an expert in your industry,” emphasised Ellithorne. “Send out newsletters and interact on social media. Offer superior service to customers, choose result-driven brands and carry retail. Have a professional website and utilise social media channels. Be the change that you wish the world to see.” (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)
Professional Beauty June 2014
Only training providers can be accredited. SAAHSP refers to recognised or designated members. With the assistance and input from all industry members we will get all stakeholders to participate and pay therapists what they are due.
Will members get preferential rates to attend conferences or seminars? Yes.
Will post-graduate/ upgrading training be made available for therapists? This is SAAHSP’s most important role.
Will members get newsletters or information regularly? All our members already receive our newsletters as well as the Professional Beauty magazine.
How will the public be made aware of these standards and criteria? Through salons and beauty therapists. (Compiled by Joelette Theron)
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Knowledge Tenza Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: knowledge@probeauty.co.za
A simple, effective daily skin care range A 'deeper than skin-deep' cosmeceutical product range in combination with state of the art micro needling technology, and safe superficial chemical peels Normalise the skin functions by balancing the layers in the skin Stimulates the skin to produce naturally its own collagen
www.luvite.co / info@luvite.co / 073 379 0147
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Professional Beauty June 2014
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Professional Beauty June 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za