Pro Beauty May 2016 by Professional Beauty SA

May 2016

www.probeauty.co.za

At your service

Cold as ice

Engaging with your customers

Frotox vs Botox

Pucker up

Toxin attack!

Lip-centric products

Body detoxing

Showstopper Professional Beauty Durban preview

On the

spot

Acne treatments

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your skin

REBORN BEAUTIFUL Vitamin A is an essential skin nutrient that has to be replenished every day for skin to appear healthier and more resilient. But when you combine vitamin A with other essential skin nutrients like antioxidants and peptides, that’s when you begin to see – and feel – beautiful skin through science.

hus far, 2016 has been somewhat of a turbulent year for South Africans. The crippling effects of the drought, coupled with the political fall-out from the Nkandla controversy and severe petrol price hikes, have all impacted negatively on the economy. So the going is tough, to say the least. In this issue we provide tips for salon and spa owners on how to beat these challenging times and ensure that their businesses thrive. Technology in skincare constantly advances at a rapid rate, with beauty brands’ R&D departments always on the hunt for revolutionary new ingredients, making it difficult for therapists to keep absolutely up to date with the latest developments. We provide some valuable insight into ingredients that are trending right now, including bee venom, of all things. Joanna Sterkowicz - Editor

In this issue... Local and international news What’s hot and happening in the hair industry All the latest launches

62 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP

Business

Spa Focus

32 Journey to wellness

15 Insider

35 Professional Beauty Durban

17 Are we in for a bumpy ride?

Keeping your business afloat in a recession

What’s on at the show

60 Medical Aesthetics

The chill drill

Nails

22 Movers & shakers in the world of ingredients

Keeping up with skincare developments

Salon Focus 24 Behind ‘The Mask’

Johannesburg salon turns 45

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Editor Joanna Sterkowicz joanna@probeauty.co.za

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Art Director Ursula Wong ursula@probeauty.co.za

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55 The science of nails Sound understanding

Sales Admin Assistant Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za

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Subscriptions Phillip Nkomo phillip@probeauty.co.za

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021 5343210

The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com

The Spa at Bushmans Kloof

21 The subtle art of retailing, merchandising and selling Tips on the psychology of selling

Commercial Director Philip Woods phil@probeauty.co.za

Printers ABC Press

Tips for engagement

Tracking the industry with stats

Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za

Accounts Manager Lizelle Foord 011 781 5970 accounts@tetradeevents.com

29 Customer Service

12 Ask the Experts All your questions answered

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Sales Executive Brenda Mzila 011 781 5970 brenda@probeauty.co.za

58 Product news

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za

International Sales Executive Melinda Alevras 072 160 6353 melinda@probeauty.co.za

49 Hair news

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079

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5 Industry news

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Regulars

Cover: www.shutterstock.com

Welcome

Features 40 The Pizza-face syndrome

Acne treatments

46 Lip service

Focus on products for the lips

51 Taking the cure

Body detox treatments

Professional Beauty May 2016

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strengthen your

BEAUTY ESSENTIAL SKIN CARE

Introducing the new

Pharma Supplements Range from Environ Life can “get under your skin” – the stress of city living, the eff ects of the environment all have an impact on skin. The way we live shows in our skin. So it’s not surprising that there’s a growing movement to look after mind, body and soul, which results in an overall feeling of well-being. Wellness is a growing global mega-trend, fuelled by consumers who want to live a good life, reach their full potential and look and feel healthy for as long as possible. Consumers around the globe believe that wellness is going to become more important in the future, and are realising that what they put in shows. The new Pharma Supplements Range from Environ assists in feeding skin’s health and resilience from the inside out with a balanced combination of vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants, helping to strengthen skin from within and keep it looking healthier and more beautiful. Strengthen Skin. Strengthen Beauty.

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industry news

News

5 All the news and views from the world of beauty and spa.

Sothys appoints SA distributor Premium French skincare brand Sothys has appointed Cape Town-based Orleans Distributors as its exclusive distributor for South Africa.

ays Orleans’s Sara Grave: “We were looking for an exclusive salon/spa brand with an established international presence and a strong NPD (New Product Development) element, as we believe this an important attribute, because it prevents brand stagnation and keeps product formulae at the cutting edge. In addition, we wanted a brand with a safe and effective chemical peel. “Sothys is 70 years young and is an independently owned family business. The entire product development and production process is in-house.” Grave describes Sothys as a

highly specialised brand that has always stood out in terms of its extraordinary commitment to research and innovation. “Sothys claims its place as an avantgarde beauty expert,” she continues. “It is the creator of Digi-Esthetique, an exclusive treatment method that, with the essential partnership of therapists, helps to transform it into an unforgettable sensorial experience. “Many of the professional treatments come in kit format, which assists the salon/spa in optimising productivity of its professional stock.”

Babor celebrates 60 years Luxury German skincare brand Babor marks its 60th birthday this year and has launched the ‘Since 1956’ HY-ÖL Limited Edition in celebration of this milestone. Says Lynn-Ann Fuchsloch of Babor South Africa: “When he created the classic HYÖL cleanser in 1956, Dr Michael Babor laid the foundations for the brand. As HY-ÖL has been a best-seller for six decades, it is fitting that the ‘Since 1956’ Limited Edition set contains HY-ÖL and a Phytoactive for the specific skin type.” Fuchsloch points out that Babor has, over the years, adhered to the philosophy of HY-ÖL, while at the same time modernising it. “To the present day, it contains natural oils and herbal extracts to cleanse the skin. A more recent addition to the formula is quillaja extract, which is obtained from the bark of the soap tree and acts like a dirt magnet. “The herbal elixirs in the Phytoactive have been complemented by a detoxifying extract of Agrimonia eupatoria, which stimulates the skin’s metabolism,” she explains.

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News in pictures

Genop Healthcare recently held its first official launch for Exuviance, NeoStrata’s salon skincare range, in Johannesburg to coincide with the release of two Exuviance products – Super Retinol Concentrate and Vitamin C+ Antiaging Booster. Pictured are Genop’s Dianne Rix and Kelly Jefferson.

Professional Beauty May 2016

industry news

SMP at Revitalab

News in brief ■ SA presence at Professional Beauty London: Three South African companies exhibited at the recent Professional Beauty London Show at Excel, namely Lilian Terry International, Zinplex and Marshall’s Traditional Healthcare (Lays Beauty).

Pretoria-based medical aesthetics clinic, Revitalab Face, Figure & Vigour, is now offering the Beauty Medical Tricopigmentation treatment.

■ Anesi to launch new products: Exclusive Beauty Solutions will introduce the latest anti-ageing products from the Anesi Laboratory on 23 May (Johannesburg), 25 May (Bloemfontein) and 30 May (Cape Town). Anesi’s Patricia Jurado and Esther Mendez will attend. Call Pearl on 011 791 4027 or e-mail pearl@exclusivebeauty.co.za

lso known as Scalp Micro Pigmentation (SMP), the treatment is akin to a nonpermanent tattoo on the scalp that gives the illusion of hair. Revitalab’s Martelie Giezing recently underwent training in Milan, Italy, where the SMP brand originates, having been founded by Milena Lardì. Says Giezing: “There are three applications of SMP – the density effect, the scar camouflage and the shaved effect. This system tattoos dots on the scalp with a 0.5mm needle, which penetrates the superficial layer of the dermis. “The pigment is not the same as used in permanent make-up, as that pigment turns blue with time. Our pigment is a universal brown ink,

■ 3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions appoints distributor: MatsiMela Home Spa has been appointed the exclusive distributor for 3D-Beauty Eyelash Extensions, a high-quality range from the US which uses a unique application technique.

which is the same tone as the keratin in hair. The treatment will last for two years if there are no touch-ups. We recommend touch-ups twice or three times a year.” Giezing aims to become an SMP trainer and believes the system is ideal for beauty salons and hairdressers. ■ SkinMiles.com launches: Renowned aesthetician Dr Alek Nikolic has created the online retail store, SkinMiles.com, to showcase skincare products endorsed by both doctors and celebrities alike.

GMP appoints regional supervisor The Global Mentorship Programme (GMP) has appointed spa consultant Emmy Stoltz as its regional supervisor for Africa. Says Stoltz: “The GMP initiative was created is the uplift the spa industry as a whole through mentorship. It is done freely by all and no payment is involved. This is the first time where mentors and mentees from across Africa, Mauritius and Seychelles will be paired.” The 2016 Global Mentorship Program consists of two 6-month sessions, from January-June and July-December. For more information visit www.mentorshipevidence.com/mentorship/global-mentorship-program

Professional Beauty May 2016

■ Top natural beauty trends: Fermented beauty products, raw processing, bacteria-rich formulas and waterless application are tipped to become some of the hottest natural beauty trends, according to a report by the Innovation Group, the trend forecasting arm of J Walter Thompson Intelligence.

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industry news

Cryotherapy takes off Based in Cape Town, the recently opened CryoLiving treatment centre, believed to be South Africa’s first cryotherapy clinic, now offers CryoFacials and the SleekSculpt body treatment.

ryoLiving owner Eugene Pienaar explains that cryotherapy has been around since 1978, where it was first used in Japan for the management of pain and inflammation in patients suffering from rheumatoid arthritis. He continues: “In America it is now extremely popular amongst people who are purely using it for general wellness, as it offers an incredible sense of wellbeing. Cryotherapy employs low temperatures for healing and pain relief. “Our CryoFacials have proved so popular that we are buying additional devices and will be adding rooms to our facility quite soon to accommodate the interest. They are performed by Belinda Woods, who was trained

by specialists in Poland. The treatment involves applying liquid nitrogen vapour directly onto the face, neck and head to stimulate collagen production, reduce wrinkles, and brighten dark spots, among other benefits.” Pienaar notes that clients like having the CryoFacials and SleekSculpt treatment simultaneously. “We have been testing the SleekSculpt treatment for the last three months and have

News in pictures

Dermalogica and Radiant Healthcare held a workshop in Johannesburg at the end of February to showcase how combining innovative technologies, devices and skincare products can maximise revenue. Pictured are Danelle Landman, Dr Adri Hofmeister, Menna Kleine and Bianca Bezuidenhout.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

assisted clients in losing between 5cm and 23cm over the course of five treatments. “The treatment involves cryostimulation, followed by the application of active cosmetics to the legs, hips and abdomen. We then wrap the targeted areas and administer a very detoxifying compression therapy.” CryoLiving currently has a CryoSauna manufactured by Polish company, Juka. Pienaar continues: “Because the treatment time is just three minutes, we can easily handle groups of 30 clients in a two-hour slot. And we can do up to three slots a day.”

Training to the ‘Xtreme’ Nerina Moodley and Elizma Smith, the new owners of Xtreme Lashes South Africa, recently returned from Houston Texas, where they underwent training (including marketing and sales training) with the Xtreme Lashes brand. “This opportunity allowed us to bring back the latest lash techniques, sales and marketing skills to offer stylists, students and educators around the country. “We personally met with Jo Mousselli, CEO and co-founder of Xtreme Lashes, and she spent time with us sharing her vision and passion for this brand. Elizma and I also met with many of the key people in the organisation and were given presentations on different aspects of this business, as well as tours around the company’s various departments,” says Moodley.

Professional Beauty May 2016

industry news

It’s ‘raining’ spas! Rain, a leading eco-ethical bath and body product company based in Swellendam, recently added a day spa and store at The Village Ridge Boutique Hotel in Nieuw Muckleneuk, Pretoria.

he Rain Forest Day Spa follows in the footsteps of The Forest Day Spa in Swellendam, The Cocoon in Cavendish Mall and The Nest in Willowbridge Shopping Centre. Says Rain’s Juani Walters: “All of our spas have an African feel, which is encapsulated in their rituals, look and natural products. The rituals include treatments such as Rain Dance, The Sole, Mother Africa, Metamorphosis and the signature treatment, Elephant Walk. “Our new spa at Village Ridge Boutique Hotel is a joint venture between Rain and the hotel. The latter forms part of the business interests of one of Rain’s director’s, so it was a natural choice for us. The hotel also embodies the quality and luxury that the Rain brand stands for. “We created our own product range for our spas called Biologie, made with

100% natural ingredients, as well as organic wild-harvested oils.” The Village Ridge Spa has two single treatment rooms, a couples’ room and a luxury hand treatment area. There is also a pool with a ‘chill area’ and a sauna, as well as a fully equipped gym. According to Walters, there are currently two full-time therapists employed at the spa, with a third to be added soon, as well as a contractor. Ronel Botes is the spa manager in charge of all the Rain spas. Walters notes that Rain is one of

the few companies in the beauty and spa industries that is both Fair Trade and Beauty Without Cruelty accredited.

BTL SA celebrates five years BTL Aesthetics SA recently celebrated five years of operating in South Africa. “We are delighted to announce that a number of new doctors are now offering our technologically advanced treatments,” says the company’s Branislav Sucansky. These include Dr M Baholo of the BioMolecular Rejuvenation Institute, who has a background as a family physician. From the same institute is Bridget Hall, who has extensive knowledge in biotechnology, used in conjunction with health & wellness, aesthetics, and slimming programmes. Dr Jenni Irvine of The Aesthetics Centre has been actively engaged in

Dr M Baholo

Bridget Hall

Jenni Irvine

the field of aesthetics medicine since 2006. In 2012 she was one of the first South African Medical Practitioners ever to have attained Board Certification with the prestigious American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine.

Professional Beauty May 2016

Dr Gavin Zipp

Founder of Zipp Health, Dr Gavin Zipp, qualified as a medical doctor in 1983. He focuses on general family medicine and also practices aesthetic medicine.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

#oftencopiednevermatched

AMPOULE CONCENTRATES FP babor.co.za

BABOR South Africa Telephone: 011 467 0110 • Email: babor.sa@babor.co.za • Website: www.babor.co.za

ask the experts

Ask the experts Our beauty industry experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

What are the differences between steam rooms and saunas, and what are the health benefits of each?

How should I prepare a treatment room for a client?

he correct set-up of a treatment room is an indication of your professionalism and dedication to the client’s comfort.

Basics include: • Your area needs to be spotless and uncluttered; • Ensure consultation forms, recommendation cards, etc. are at hand;

he beneficial effects of sweating have been known for thousands of years – both the ancient Greeks and Romans used the therapeutic effects of perspiration. Benefits include relaxing, detoxing, building up the immune system and improving blood circulation. The sauna helps to reduce stress, improve circulation and strengthen the heart. Regular sauna bathing builds up the body’s immunological powers and has a positive effect on metabolism. Influenza infections, for example, are prevented effectively. The dry heat in the sauna expands the blood vessels, leading to increased blood flow, thereby contributing to an improved supply of oxygen to the heart. In steam baths, the high moisture content is particularly beneficial for relieving sinus congestion and respiratory problems. It is strongly recommended for asthma and bronchitis sufferers. Breathing passages are soothed by the increased moisture content in the nose, throat and lungs. Asthma sufferers may choose the steam room, whilst those with bad blood circulation may prefer a dry heat sauna. However, anyone suffering from a medical condition should consult their doctor before using either type of facility. Louise Melunsky is the sales manager (Johannesburg) of Wellness Fitness Africa, which started in Cape Town in 2003. The business is now involved with the planning, supply and installation of equipment in major hotel spas and day spas.

Professional Beauty May 2016

• Your room must be stocked with all the required equipment and products; • Ensure the temperature is correct – have a heated bean bag, electric blanket or cosy comforter in the colder months; • Have extra towels, blankets and bolsters readily available; • Ensure the bed is prepared for your clients in a special way to customise your spa; • Music must be on and set at the correct level; • Use dimmers, track lighting, a variety of lamps, candles and different wattage light bulbs to create a relaxing ambience; • Create a soft, customised scent through candles, diffusers or burners. Additional touches: • A vanity with soap and lotion; • Cosy changing spot with a chair, table, water and flowers; • Bowl under massage bed face-hole with something unique to your spa; • Bath mat on floor; • Hot Cabbi with heated oil, compressors and eye pillows. Emmy Stoltz started her career at Camelot International in 1998 as an enthusiastic student. Stoltz has been with MatsiMela Home Spa since 2011 as the Head of Spa Distribution.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to joanna@probeauty.co.za

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business trends

Insider

Insider, our exclusive business round-up, polled salons and spas in South Africa to track business in March 2016.

The month in numbers

85 % BETTER

HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN MARCH 2016 COMPARE WITH MARCH 2015?

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

% BETTER

% SAME

90 % WORSE

Insider Salon

While Easter falling in March benefitted the spa industry, particularly destination spas, it seemed to have the opposite effect on salons. Some salons said the public and school holidays had a negative effect on turnover, as did the current political and economic climate. Others found that a lot of people went away over the period. Retail sales were also down on the same time last year, with clients becoming increasingly conscious of what they spend on cosmetics. As to discounting websites, one salon has successfully advertised on Groupon for certain treatments such as fat freezing and laser hair removal, but would never do so for facials, time-consuming treatments or treatments that use many products. HOW DID RETAIL Another salon BUSINESS IN MARCH never uses discount 2016 COMPARE WITH websites, believing MARCH 2015? that they cheapen the profession. Salons reported that clients talking calls on % BETTER their cell phones in the salon, particularly during mani or pedi % SAME sessions, is a great annoyance, as are last minute cancellations % WORSE and clients arriving late for appointments.

4 6

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Insider Spa

The fact that the Easter holidays fell in March this year (as opposed to April in 2015) had a very positive effect on % SAME spas, 85% of which reported an increase in treatment business. % WORSE Some spas also increased their prices, which accounted in part for an increase in revenue. One HOW DID TREATMENT spa benefitted from hosting a BUSINESS IN corporate group and having MARCH 2016 more therapists on duty per COMPARE WITH day. Another spa found that MARCH 2015? less people in their area went on holiday this Easter, opting to enjoy local activities instead. Some therapists were able to AVERAGE TREATMENT upsell their treatments. ROOM Retail sales during March OCCUPANCY 2016 were also up. Reasons cited were regular refreshment training with product houses and offering therapists bigger incentives. We asked spas if they offer specials on discounting websites (such as Groupon) and all spas said no, with some of you offering monthly and seasonal specials through social media and emailers instead, and others HOW DID RETAIL preferring to offer value rather BUSINESS IN than discounted treatments. MARCH 2016 One spa passes discounts COMPARE WITH directly to their loyal spa MARCH 2015? customers as a reward for booking directly with the spas, to build a customer base of % BETTER returning clients, as opposed to a customer base of bargain hunters. % SAME The most annoying client habit that spas reported is clients is arriving late for % WORSE appointments, no shows and not returning locker keys. PB

10 5

71%

83 0

Professional Beauty May 2016

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DMK Skin Revision Protocols can offer you: • New clientele with high levels of client retention and satisfaction • A competitive advantage in an ever-changing market • Pre and Post Operative Treatment Protocols for medical procedures • Alignment with medical practices • The benefits of high retail margins • International education and marketing support

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business tips

Are we in for a bumpy ride?

Lauren Gibson provides some insight on how to keep your business going in a tough economy.

he following sentence is on the lips of every South African you speak to: “This is going to be a tough year. We will have to tighten our belts and watch the finances.” Now for business owners, this is the last thing that you want to hear consumers saying. But it really isn’t the end of your business as you know it, as there are ways to beat a tough economy. Understanding how to do this will be important. According to Focus Economics (an online economics platform),

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South Africa recovered its economy at the end of last year and started to look positive, until we had political unrest and one of the worst droughts the country has experienced in years. This doesn’t just affect politicians and farmers – it affects the entire country and all areas of business. The general trading conditions in South Africa’s retail market have remained challenging in the first quarter of 2016, with more and more consumers choosing where to spend their money versus just buying their usual goods. Wherever they choose to spend is what they value and your

business needs to be on that spend list. International players with heritage, brand portfolios and experience are going to lead the pack in 2016 and will set the pace for South African markets. Many health and beauty specialist retailers have continued to increase the quality and variety of high end or private label products they offer in an attempt to remain competitive, generate higher margins and take advantage of branding opportunities. But this may be a fad and will be short lived as consumers want expertise. Seven out of 10 consumers would R

Professional Beauty May 2016

business tips

18 rather go to a recognised expert in the field in a tougher economy versus a general store. Examples are businesses like brow bars, skin bars and lash bars. This year will see a generalised 4% compound annual growth rate on 2015 in health and beauty specialist retailers and this is expected to be driven mainly by the expanding presence of medical doctors and pharmacies now able to offer health and beauty services. Although this is lower than the 9% growth in 2015 versus 2014, it is still showing growth where some sectors will be showing a 0% growth rate or be lucky not to go into a decline.

Lipstick effect So why is there a strong demand despite the poor economic growth? It’s the lipstick effect. Beauty sales always seem to experience a boost in tougher economic times. In fact, at a conference given by RMB (Rand Merchant Bank) recently, they said that the health and beauty sector in South Africa will be one of the best performing sectors in a tougher economy. I believe the lipstick effect dates back to the era of World War II, but studies have shown that after 9/11 attacks in New York, certain health and beauty products saw double digit growth in sales of units. The lipstick effect is based on the theory that, when facing an economic crisis, consumers will be more willing to buy less costly luxury goods. Instead of buying expensive fur coats, for example, people will buy expensive lipstick. For example, your clients may not buy their usual five products but they will still come in for a treatment and buy three retail products (the industry average for 2016) if they are important to them. Clients will look for products that offer multifunctional benefits and come in economical sizes that can be refilled, or sizes that can be chosen according to budget.

Relevance To ensure growth in your business you need to look at more than just trends, data and past performance. How relevant are you? Do you understand the age of the customer

The lipstick effect... Beauty sales always seem to experience a boost in tougher economic times. will be 50 billion connected devices – that is six devices per person! Can you really not be connected?

Time management

and what their needs are and how their needs change in a tougher economy? Have you identified the customer’s micro-moment? (This is a small moment that catches a consumer’s attention and often leads to impulse buys as something tells them to take action.) Are you making it easy to be in your store, buy from your store and book treatments in your store? Sixty-fourpercent of consumers shop at their favourite shop because something generates a micro-moment, such as a different display or catchy marketing. How active are you on social media? It is not going to go away. Ninety-three-percent of buying is influenced by social media. In tougher times consumers want to see what others are doing and how they are living a great life. If their favourite celeb is always in your skin centre, they will find the money to visit your store just by seeing it on social media. It is estimated that by 2020 there

Professional Beauty May 2016

You need to polish up on time management – a critical skill that will end up saving you money and add to your GP (Gross Profit) at the end of each month. Money can be gained or lost, but time can only be used or wasted. Other factors to consider are therapists’ maximum potential and productivity levels, treatment room occupancy rates and the number of units being sold per day. Try and create a benchmark according to a good industry average and work off that. At the end of the day we can succeed in 2016. We just have to ensure that we work smarter, better and faster to ensure maximum productivity in a tough economic climate. PB Lauren Gibson has been with Dermalogica for just over three years, where she has been a senior instructor and a business consultant in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). She is currently the regional manager of the Cape Town team.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

business tips

The subtle art of retailing, merchandising and selling Spa and salon owners will tell you that they are in the beauty industry to make clients feel good, look beautiful and to enhance their lives. That is true. But honestly, we’re in business (like any other people in business) to make money, writes Debbie Merdjan.

f we don’t make money in our business, no lives will be enhanced, including our own. Retail sales should contribute a minimum of 30% to your treatment turnover and are an easy way to make a profit. Retailing is the process of selling a product to consumers. Merchandising is the practice contributing to the sale of products to the customer. Selling is creating a demand for the retail product (i.e. the merchandise). We’ve often spoken about the importance of excellent staff, good location, keeping up with trends, offering great value and ensuring that the customer feels and looks fabulous, while focusing on return business. But we need to look at retailing and merchandising, which are the two things that will assist your sales. It is no longer enough to simply display products and hope for sales. Today you need to be strategic and have a merchandising plan to ensure that the products are displayed in a way that makes them become irresistible.

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Psychology of selling You have to be smart and think about the psychology of selling. Did you know that in a large store the cheapest products are always placed on the lowest shelves, with the more expensive placed at eye level and above? The more units of a product that are displayed, the cheaper they are. Customers know this. They get the psychology. Our job is to reinforce it. So, when displaying products, think of the Triple V factor: Visibility – products must be easily accessible. Voiceability – staff must be able to fully explain the products to the client. Verifyability – the client needs to be able to verify what the staff member tells her, by testing the product samples. A salon should tantalise customers with colours, scents, feelings and effects, combined with packaging and branding. Spas are filled with possibilities for displaying merchandise – treatment rooms, relaxation lounges and locker rooms. You don’t want to overdo

it, but you do want to make use of the space available. Be subtle, well organised, use the light well, and draw the customer in. Engage and inspire the customer. Tell them a story about the merchandise. Your product house supplier will help you in terms of how to stack and group the products, how to illuminate them and how to incorporate a theme. Work with them and don’t be scared to ask for help. Look at your merchandise and ask yourself… does it evoke an emotion? Do you want to reach out and buy it? If the answer is yes, then wait. Watch. And reap the rewards. Your merchandise will sell. And you will enhance your life, and those of others. PB

Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.

Professional Beauty May 2016

business tips

Movers & shakers in

the world of ingredients

At the supercharged pace with which technology moves today it is almost impossible for spas, salons and therapists to keep up with changes in skincare ingredients, writes Ayesha Rajah.

ow do you keep up with what is trending when, in the blink of an eye, Hyaluronic acid is yesterday’s news and the new musthave is bee venom, or last year’s Green tea is this year’s Ginseng? After having sifted through a mountain of information, I’ve decided to break it down and bring you the highlights.

Must-have DNA repair enzymes – some would say that these have revolutionised the fight against ageing caused by UV radiation. Imagine this… can an ingredient, when applied to sundamaged skin, potentially prevent the development of cancer, reverse the effects of UV exposure and prevent all related UVageing like wrinkles, sun spots and sagging? The answer is yes, DNA repair enzymes can. Over-exposure to the sun damages the strands between your DNA. This sets off a chain reaction that impedes cell function, which can ultimately cause the mutations that lead to cancer. DNA repair enzymes have the ability to eliminate

Professional Beauty May 2016

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business tips

23 the damaged DNA, repair and correct the sequence, leaving the skin more resilient, younger-looking and healthier.

The green buzz In the natural skincare arena, marine biotechnology is a gamechanger and can be considered a ‘cosmeceutical’. Its application goes beyond the benefits of traditional skincare products. It is seen as the future of results-oriented cosmetics, and the bonus is that it is 100% natural. To put it simply, marine biotechnology is the technique of using marine micro-organisms to produce, or transform, an active ingredient without the addition of chemicals or artificial products, making it eco-friendly. Marine biotechnology provides the cosmetic industry with highly potent ingredients that provide powerful results. With an almost infinite number of possibilities for new skincare applications, marine biotechnology consistently delivers proven long-term and visible results.

What’s trending ‘Me make-up’ fits in directly with one of the largest growing consumer trends, namely hyperpersonalisation. Consumers now want everything tailormade, for example, ‘Not any red lipstick, but the red lipstick made for me.” We are seeing major strides in the world of colour cosmetic ingredients, with a trend called custom blending. Everything from your eye shadow, to lip gloss, lipstick and even foundation, can be uniquely signature-blended just for you. You can go one step further and change the performance of your foundation; you can request more oil control, change the texture, go from more coverage to sheer, and, best of all, get the perfect colour match for your skin.

The big ban – microbeads

Sunblock innovations Sunblocks are fast becoming the new super creams. Look out for these innovations: an all-in-one product containing SPF (Sun Protection Factor), EPF (Environmental Protection Factor), which combines a cocktail of antioxidants to protect the skin from environmental aggression, as well as DNA repair enzymes. Sounds like a wellcoordinated attack against ageing! The other breakthrough is an SPF that gives maximum protection against UV radiation but allows Vitamin D absorption, which contains Solar D. These two processes are normally mutually exclusive, which has led to a number of health concerns. I suffer from severe hyper-pigmentation and wear sunblock 24/7/365, hence I have developed such extreme Vitamin D insufficiency that it brought an onset of chronic inflammation in my body. Approximately 40% of children and 60% of adults suffer from a Vitamin D deficiency. With this sunblock innovation you get the best of worlds, a protected skin and a healthy body.

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same time, hard enough and smooth enough to be considered for their great exfoliating benefits. Watch out for a hefty price tag though.

Bee venom One of the over-the-top ingredients trending right now is bee venom. Yes, being lightly stung, or at least fooling your skin into thinking it has been gently stung, by a compound called Melittin, produces great antiageing benefits. The theory is that applying bee venom directly to the skin should trigger a healing effect, thereby stimulating collagen production and plumping up fine lines and wrinkles. Apparently the sensation on the skin varies from no unusual feeling to a mild tingling sensation.

Diamonds are a girl’s best friend Using precious gems in skincare is all the rage at the moment. Rubies, emeralds and diamonds are being incorporated into cleansers and exfoliators as a polishing agent. Gemstone particles as fine as dust are gentle on the skin, but, at the

The Microbeads Must Fall initiative has gone global, as microbeads have already had such a negative impact on the environment that President Obama signed a bill last December banning all plastic particles in personal care products. The bill is called The Microbeads Free Waters Act. It was surprising to discover how many products incorporate microbeads – not only exfoliators and face washes, but body washes, body scrubs, foot scrubs and even toothpaste.

Talc With all eyes focused on the recent talcum powder ovarian cancer lawsuit, it is useful to know how it affects our industry. Talcum powder is found in loose and pressed powder, eye shadow, bronzer and foundation. I must stress, though, that it is the over-exposure to talc powders that is dangerous, and they should be kept away for your nose and mouth due to the minute particles that are easily inhaled. PB Ayesha Rajah, MD of A&I Importers and owner of Urban Bliss Wellness Spa, has been involved in the spa and skincare industry for more than 20 years. Rajah also facilitates training for Phytomer, Priori and Skin Doctors.

Professional Beauty May 2016

salon focus

Behind ‘The Mask’ On March 1, The Mask Skin & Body Clinic in Parkview, Johannesburg, celebrated its 45th birthday. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to co-founder and owner, Helene Bramwell, about the clinic’s enduring success.

he South African beauty industry is characterised by a multitude of salons and skin clinics that open and close after a year or two, due to questionable service and/ or bad business decisions. So, when a salon manages to keep going for four and a half decades, it’s quite something. When asked how it feels for

The Mask Skin & Body Clinic to have reached its 45th anniversary milestone, Helene Bramwell responds: “Quite incredible! It has been an amazing journey from the days of simple treatments, to an age where the therapist’s role has become more valuable and sophisticated than ever before. The advances in therapies and cosmetics have kept my passion for the beauty industry nurtured.” Bramwell credits the salon’s

Professional Beauty May 2016

success to hard work, keeping up with the changing role of the therapist by bringing in new techniques and therapies, and ensuring that the salon stays focused on client needs and committed to results. “What has been integral to our longevity has been being involved in the beauty profession as a whole and keeping constantly updated,” she continues. “Over the years I’ve always ensured that the team sings out of the same songbook, so to speak. And, as I keep saying – ‘No man is an island’ – there are so many people who have played a role in the success of The Mask.” Bramwell notes that she is truly blessed to have client's that have supported her since the early 1970s. “In some cases we are treating these clients’ children and grandchildren and I look forward to the next generation – it is truly an honour. Many clients have left Johannesburg but when they happen to be in town again, they come back to us. These special relationships are based on trust,” she comments.

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salon focus

25 “What has been integral to our longevity has been being involved in the beauty profession as a whole and keeping constantly updated.” Helene Bramwell was required. Because of our attitude and commitment to success, we grew and moved to the larger premises.” Today there are six somatologists, two beauty therapists and three nail technicians working at the clinic.

Community feel Since inception The Mask has been situated in Parkview. “I love Parkview because of the diverse community and the general feeling of belonging,” continues Bramwell. “In the early years, I was offered many spots in other suburbs to move my practice to, like Hyde Park and Sandton, for example. But Parkview has always been my first choice.” Many years ago The Mask moved from its original small premises on Tyrone Avenue to a slightly larger one at 54 Tyrone Avenue, and then later to 60 Tyrone. “We now have a much larger space that can accommodate all the various disciplines that the clinic offers. When we opened in 1971 we had two therapists. It was not easy in those days as the beauty industry was an unknown profession. We were classified as indulgent and only for affluent, vain and spoilt woman. Luckily this attitude changed over time, albeit a long time. “My partner in The Mask, MaryAnne Smith, fell pregnant and we employed another therapist to assist, and, as the business grew, we needed more hands. Training in those early days was not up to the standard it is today, so a lot of in-house training

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of all being in the same boat, and for the boat to remain afloat we need to be going in the same direction. “My staff are not in competition with one another, they get paid well and there is no commission structure. At the end of the year, if funds will allow, they get bonuses. In my opinion this is the only way you keep staff and ensure they look after the interests of the practice as a whole. You have to acknowledge how important they are and listen to their needs as well. “Personally I do believe that one leads by example – I am passionate about what I do and this passion cascades over my team. I like being involved and I do believe that you earn a tremendous amount of respect and commitment from staff by ‘being one of them’. My ‘open door’ relationship with staff ensures that any queries, issues or problems they have can be openly discussed.”

Celebrations

The original version of The Mask measured 90 square metres and comprised a leg waxing cubicle, three facial cubicles, a small kitchen and a reception area. Today The Mask occupies 230 square metres and includes two waxing cubicles, plus 17 cubicles.

Loyal staff Bramwell believes that a business is only as good as the people you employ who have the same work ethic and commitment as you. “I have had my ups and downs with staff over the years but I believe I have been extremely lucky with my choices. Team spirit and the ability to share information, discuss issues and cope with the challenges are very important. The Mask fosters a culture

Bramwell and her staff, as well as a few of her friends, marked the salon’s 45th birthday by sending off 45 balloons into the atmosphere in early March. “Instead of an actual celebratory event, we will make a donation to the Woman & Men Against Child Abuse charity,” she explains. After having been in the industry since 1966, Bramwell still relishes working in the beauty industry. “It’s such an exciting field to be in, especially in this ‘feel younger, look younger’ era,” she says. “We need to offer clients the most up-todate therapies that do the job. This is a long way away from the ‘classic massage’ era, although massage is still enjoyed and effective when using sophisticated active serums. “Today we are able to offer clients advanced therapies such as laser, IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), RF (Radiofrequency), LED (LightEmitting Diode); micro-needling, skin peeling, etc.” PB

Professional Beauty May 2016

On: 28 & 29 August 2016 at: Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand

2016

SUNDAY 28 August 2016

MONDAY 29 AUGUST 2016

8h30

Registration

9h00 Registration

9h30

Welcome by Mark Moloney

9h30

Sales Training Workshop

11h00 Tea

10h00 KEYNOTE SPEAKER

11h30 – 13h00 Workshop continued

11h30 Tea / coffee

13h00 – 14h30 Lunch and exhibition 12h00 STAFF

Staff Retention programmes

How to recruit the right team

Invest in training your team

14h30 Customer service

13h00 – 15h00 Lunch and exhibition 15h00 Marketing

First contact with your business

Customer narrative

Attention to detail of the customer treatment

Customer feedback: the lost art of connection

How to put together an advert

Power of copyrighting

15h30 REVENUE MANAGEMENT

Social Media: How impactful is it and how does it affect your turnover?

Understanding cost of goods and how it impacts your bottom line

Mobile marketing

Effective booking of treatments and upselling

Improve your bottom line or your business will go bottoms up!

16h00 ECO SUSTAINABILITY

Renewal sources

Carbon neutral ideas

16h30 Close

17h30 Tea and Close

Let’s talk about it... BOOK EARLY FOR YOUR 2016 DELEGATE PASS Check the website for online bookings and benefits: www.probeauty.co.za

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spa convention

Q&A with Andrew Gibson VP of Spa & Wellness at the Fairmont Raffles Hotels and Resorts, Andrew Gibson will be a keynote speaker at the International Spa Convention, which takes place on 28 & 29 August at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand. Why do you think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important for industry stakeholders to attend events like The International Spa Convention? I think it is important to attend the International Spa Convention if you are connected to any part of this industry so that you have a chance to listen to ideas and thoughts from your colleagues. Combined with a chance to network with experienced professionals, this convention offers the opportunity to learn, be inspired and comprehend how the industry is developing. The International Spa Convention establishes a platform to take time away from the daily operations of the spa and gives delegates an opportunity to think and reflect on their businesses. The agenda and mix of delegates stimulates ideas and actions that can be used to assist any operator.

What do you think are the biggest challenges facing the global spa industry today? Without doubt the greatest global challenge is the shortage of skilled management. Although there are well established schools to train in the practical skills of massage and to train aestheticians, there is a shortage of people attending the management programmes. The spa and wellness industry has exploded in numbers (as shown in research conducted by ISPA and the Global Wellness Institute), which has caused the shortage of skilled labour.

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The second challenge I foresee is the threat to traditional business models through disrupters such as technology, the medical industry or even the wellness trend. Technology has already aided entrepreneurial sites to entice therapists away from working at spas to become independent therapists, who are available online and able to deliver mobile treatments at their clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; homes. Businesses such as Zeel in the US and Massage.com in the UK have growth throughout several key cities. Whether this is a fad or a trend and how much risk is involved in this type of business remains to be seen, but for now it drains staff away from spas. In fact, Zeel has started a campaign that advises spa operators to reduce their overheads and call a Zeel therapist to the spa to do the treatment. The medical industry has become interested in spa and spa treatments â&#x20AC;&#x201C; particularly as there is growing scientific evidence of the benefits of certain massages and treatments. This may change the way the industry is regulated and put more demands on operators to satisfy legislative protocols in order to operate. And finally, the trend of wellness moves spa beyond the walls and to the entire brand message for hotels and resorts. Designs will have to change to include systems that make people healthy. The advances in nutrition and healthy eating will continue and the selection of programmes may at last be sustainable.

The International Spa Convention establishes a platform to take time away from the daily operations of the spa and gives delegates an opportunity to think and reflect on their businesses. These are some of the issues I will raise at the International Spa Convention.

What will you focus on in your presentations at The International Spa Convention? My presentations will look at the methods of hiring and retention, and look at a simple strategy built from understanding a single KPI (Key Performance Indicator).

What do you hope that delegates will take away with them from your presentations at The International Spa Convention? I hope that I can provide practical information and ideas that can be used at any day spa, hotel or resort. I hope that delegates will be inspired and be keen to ask questions that can help them improve their skills. PB

Professional Beauty May 2016

spa focus

Customer service The customer of today will remain loyal to your business based purely on how you made them feel during the time they spent with you and how you engaged with them, writes Marisa Dimitriadis.

ustomer service should NOT be a department within your business, but rather an attitude that permeates through each individual person working in that business, no matter their position. To define the term, customer service is the provision of service to customers before, during and after a purchase. The perception of success of such interactions is dependent on employees ‘who can adjust themselves to the personality of the guest’.

Empathy / assessment This is the ability to understand the customer, his/her needs and mood. Let’s say a customer feels cheated or disappointed – a company representative with effective customer skills

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must respond in a tone and manner that will appease and reassure the customer. To assess is to ask questions and gather customer-related information through observation to gauge the needs and potential of a customer. Look and listen for subtle clues about their current mood, patience level, personality, etc., and you’ll go far in keeping your customer interactions positive.

Patience and tact Joyce Meyer said: ‘Patience is not the ability to wait but how you act while you are waiting’. Great service beats fast service so be sure to take the time to figure out what your customer truly wants. Listen with your ears, eyes and heart. What are you customers really telling you without saying it? R

Professional Beauty May 2016

spa focus

30 Tact is an important attribute in customer service. As Winston Churchill said: ‘Tact is the ability to tell someone to go to hell in such a way that they look forward to the trip’. Never blame the customer. Always keep your cool. You cannot let an upset customer force you to lose your cool no matter what they say or how they say it.

Clear communication When it comes to important points that you need to relay clearly to customers, keep it simple and leave nothing to doubt. For example, when you are confirming a treatment, make sure you name the type of treatment, its duration, the therapist involved, the date, time and venue.

Negotiation To negotiate well, you need patience and tact, empathy and assessment. You need to be able to make quick and shrewd decisions regarding customer needs and company policy to satisfy both ends. A classic example here is when a client arrives late for their treatment and really wants the full treatment time. The art of negotiation can mean the difference between losing this client (and they spread a negative story) or keeping this client loyal forever and they spread the story about how amazing your service is.

Movie star Great customer service = basic acting skills necessary to maintain your usual cheery persona in spite of dealing with people who may be just plain grumpy. Sometimes you’re going to come across people that you’ll never be able to make happy. So best you polish up those acting skills and remember that a good actor never comes across as fake.

Do you talk a ‘positive language’? Your ability to make minor changes in your conversational patterns can truly go a long way in creating happy customers. Here’s an example: let’s say a customer expresses interest in a particular product, but that product happens to be on back order until next

Great service beats fast service so be sure to take the time to figure out what your customer truly wants. month. Small changes that utilise ‘positive language’ can greatly affect how the customer hears your response. Consider the following two examples: Without positive language: “I can’t get you that product until next month; it is back-ordered and unavailable at this time.” With positive language: “That product will be available next month. I can place the order for you right now and make sure that it is sent to you as soon as it reaches our salon/spa.”

Do you look how your customer wants to feel? Is your make-up impeccable and actually on your face? Is your hair clean, neat, tidy, healthy looking and not all colours of the rainbow? Are your toenails and fingers nails perfectly polished and groomed. Are your teeth clean and white and do you have fresh breath? Do you look gorgeous?

Product knowledge The best forward-facing employees in your company will work on having a deep knowledge of every product and treatment offered. Without knowing your product from front-to-back, you won’t know how to help customers when they run into problems. Do the test today, walk past a therapist holding a product you picked up off your shelf and ask her to list one active ingredient in the product and sell it to you.

Time management If you don’t know the solution to a problem, move on and hand your customer over to someone who does.

Professional Beauty May 2016

For example, if you are going to spend 30 minutes of a manicure on the application of lacquer because you simply don’t paint nails well, then it is time to move on from manicures, or practise until you are perfect.

Persuasion skills It’s not about making a sales pitch over the phone when booking treatments or after a treatment recommending products, it’s about not letting potential customers slip away because you couldn’t create enough worth for the customer to buy the product. For example, when a customer calls in wanting a specific brand of product which you might not stock, persuasion skills are needed to convince this customer to still book their treatment with your spa using a different product.

Determination A great work ethic and a willingness to do whatever needs to be done (and not take shortcuts) is a key skill when providing the kind of service that people talk about. The many memorable customer service stories out there (many of which had a huge impact on the business) were created by a single employee who refused to just do the ‘status quo’ when it came to helping someone out. PB

Marisa Dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.

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spa focus

Journey to wellness Winner of the Professional Beauty Award for Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year 2015, The Spa at Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat in the Western Cape places emphasis on ‘natural healing energy’, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

ituated near the town of Clanwilliam, Bushmans Kloof is surrounded by the spectacular Cederberg Mountain range and stunning landscapes. “In these surroundings, spa guests feel as though they are in an oasis,” says spa manager Dee Basson. “There is a natural healing energy that one feels when staying at the Bushmans Kloof Lodge. With our beautiful environment, we feel that it is important to incorporate holistic principles and natural healing in the treatments.” She notes that the spa interior is designed in natural muted tones of whites, creams, beiges, stones and marble. “The spa exudes a calming, light and spiritual ambience, where guests can succumb to the tranquil world of pampering. “One of the unique features of the spa is our beautiful Crystal Steam

Room. It features a central block of pure rock quartz crystal, which is renowned as a ‘master healer’. It helps cleanse and enhance the organs, connecting the physical dimension with the mind, and aids concentration while unlocking memory.”

Professional Beauty May 2016

‘Soul’ution When commenting on the Cederberg ‘Soul’ution, the spa’s signature treatment, Basson points out that it was inspired by the Cederberg Mountains. “Bushmans Kloof is situated in the heart of the area where Rooibos is

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spa focus

Spa at a glance Owner: Bushmans Kloof (The Red Carnation Hotel Collection) Opened: 2002 Size: 173 square metres Number of treatment rooms: Four rooms, riverside gazebo Number of full-time therapists: Five Hydro facilities: Crystal Steam Room, heated outdoor pool Brands: Elemis, Dermalogica, Mio and B|Africa

grown,” she continues. “The spa’s 90-minute signature treatment is performed in our secluded Riverside Gazebo, where the guest is indulged in a unique combination of soothing therapeutic treatments that are based on ancient African traditions and the aromatic power of blends of indigenous Rooibos and Fynbos vegetation, combined with healing plant oils. “This treatment includes a relaxing massage, utilising hot stones to prepare the muscles, a Rooibos milk bath foot treatment and a face and scalp massage.” The Spa at Bushmans Kloof uses the signature brand of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection, namely B|Africa. This range of exclusive body care products and professional spa treatments is prepared by blending native African plant extracts with the natural goodness of the sea and eco-friendly production technologies.

Accolades aplenty In addition to the Professional Beauty Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year 2015 Award, The Spa at Bushmans Kloof has won the following awards: Spa Magazine Silver Sage Readers’ Choice Awards: Favourite Resort/ Hotel Spa in Africa and the Middle East (2009); Les Nouvelles Esthétiques Spa Awards: Winner Unique Spa (2011); The Safari Awards 2016: Runner-up Best Safari Spa/Retreat (2015); and International Wellness Travel Awards: Best in South Africa (2015). Unlike some other destination spas, which also operate on a day spa basis, The Spa at Bushmans Kloof is dedicated exclusively to guests who stay at the Lodge. PB

Professional Beauty May 2016

The key To your beauTy business poTenTial

DURBAN

12 & 13 JUNE 2016

unlock your opTions! Educationail Workshop

Professional Beauty Network Breakfast

Stock up on show specials

Source new products

Focus on future and professional development

For your FREE entry, pre-register at

www.probeauty.co.za

professional beauty durban 2016

So, what’s on show? The Professional Beauty Durban Show, taking place from 12 to 13 June at the Durban ICC, is positioned to play a crucial role in allowing beauty industry professionals to benchmark the latest products, services and equipment.

rofessional Beauty Durban offers visitors an excellent networking opportunity and the chance to source new suppliers, compare existing ones and find out what the latest innovations are. Not only can visitors compare price, product and suppliers, many exhibitors will also offer visitors to their stands excellent ‘show only’ offers. Here is a sneak peek at some of the companies who will be exhibiting at the show. Acu-sol (Dermacare) will showcase a fantastic range of Italian waxes that are new to South Africa. Best Lasers helps its clients to take their businesses to the next level both financially and technologically by adding Alma Lasers to their practice. The company provides extensive training to clients, as well as technical support with local and international backing. Best Lasers registers the client with the Department of Health & Safety and provides essential information regarding all the necessary precautions operators must take when using a laser. Bio Sculpture Gel will showcase its innovative new EVO Gel, which will be available at the show, along with many other show specials. Visit the Brisan Distributors stand to find out why customers worldwide prefer Alexandria Body Sugaring for hair removal. This is a 100% natural, skin friendly, safe, gentle and far less painful alternative to waxing, which leads to permanency, leaves the skin exfoliated and silky smooth and can be used on all parts of the body.

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BTL Industries designs and manufactures non-surgical machines for the aesthetic market that represent the best devices in fat dissolving, skin tightening, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL treatments. Calgel – come to our stand to find out about our half-price training programmes in Durban and our new Calgel Top Gel, which gives clients a long-lasting shine. Creative Glamour – come and test our new and improved brush cleaner, or buy a limited edition purple brush holder, or be more professional with our mixing thumb palette.

Affordable software and support for everyone from a home salon to the most sophisticated spa or group. ESP Software gives you the opportunity to create a professional as well as personal environment for your clients. With ESP’s modular philosophy you can grow your software as you grow your business from sales to balance sheet and everything in between.

Pic: Moyou

Ikhokha – this system enables hundreds of hair and beauty professionals to accept card payments from their salon, or in their clients’ homes. It’s a card machine in your pocket that comes in hot pink. Come and visit Ikhokha at stand A11 and get a R100 show discount. Kalahari produces a range of world-class skin and body products that capture not only the earthy goodness of nature, but the unique, sensory experience of Africa. Using R

Professional Beauty May 2016

professional beauty durban 2016

only naturally harvested botanical ingredients, Kalahari’s superior plant oils and phyto-effective extracts are compounded into quality skincare solutions that restore and nourish your skin. At Kryolan, we make make-up. But not like anybody else. Because unlike everybody else, we actually make our make-up. We‘ve done it our own way for 70 years and three generations. We think of it. We manufacture it. Formulate it and love it into existence. Book a Luscious Lashes International Training course at the show valued @ R5,500 and receive kit with training @ R4,500.

EducationaiL Workshop

For the first time ever, Professional Beauty and Nail File will host the Educationail Workshop in Durban, on 12 June at the Durban ICC. Supported by ITEC, the Educationail Workshop will expose delegates to tutorials from leading brand names on the latest developments in the nail industry and how to grow your business. All delegates will receive attendance certificates. To book your seat go to www.probeauty.co.za

Visit Lilian Terry International – creators of homeopathic aromatherapy – at stand D17 to take advantage of a 10% off show special. The company will showcase its LT FlexyCups and visitors can experience complexes, wraps, gels and toners on the stand. Moyou Nails offers high quality and long lasting nail designs. This product is unique because it is the only one of its kind in Africa. Buy the Salon Pro Sets for R1,500 and receive three free nail polishes in any colour. Polish Applique from Nailsforu is an easy to remove LED / UV cured gel top coat applied over your favourite brand of base coat and polish. It promotes a smooth gel like effect and improves performance and longevity, and provides a protective, hard-wearing, durable polish overlay. Magnificent high gloss surface shine and Toluene, Formadehyde and DBP free. Nature’s Essence is a leading manufacturer and marketer of herbal and aromatherapy based skincare, hair care, and body care range of products with a sister concern by the name of Coloressence, promoting make-up and colour cosmetics on a national and international level. Nouveau Contour is the industry leader worldwide in permanent and re-constructive make-up in 26 countries. Now offering South Africa the best pigments, equipment and training in our Nouveau Academy. (Beware of imitations.) For more than 40 years, NSI (Nail Systems International) has been at the forefront of researching, developing and manufacturing innovative products with cutting edge ideas for the professional nail care industry.

Professional Beauty May 2016

Pure Smile is the only 100% natural teeth whitening supplier in Africa. Quick: 30-minute once-off session. Efficient: gain from two to nine shades. Painless: no sensitive teeth or gum irritation. Affordable: recommended retail price – R 790. Professional Beauty special: R390 instead of R790 for a 30-minute once-off session / R40 instead of R49 for our unique instant whitening toothpaste. Become a partner (corner package offer) for R9,990 instead of R10,990. Studex will demonstrate to salon owners how offering a Studex earpiercing service can increase both income and foot traffic into their business. Every easy to use and extremely hygienic, Studex systems can be used for belly- and nose-piercing, as well as for ear-piercing. Studex looks forward to meeting both new and existing customers at the show. Enhance your eyelashes by up to 300% with WOW 3D Fibre Lashes. These lashes are made from 100% natural tea tree fibre and beeswax. Requiring only a five-minute application, the lashes last all day and can be removed with facial cleanser and water. PB

For more information about Professional Beauty Durban, visit: www.probeauty.co.za.

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39 Autumn is the time to support the skin so that one can enter winter with healthier skin and build it up in preparation for spring. Recommendations: Retail: Ionzyme C-Quence Serums and C-Quence Crème, C-Quence Energising Masque Environ Retinol Serums – Intensive Vitamin A Serums are part of the unique Environ step-up system. They may assist to improve the overall appearance of the skin; and may be used once the client is comfortable on higher levels of Environ Vitamin A moisturisers. Evenescence Range – after extensive research, these products (Clarifying lotion and C- Boost) were formulated to assist with improving the appearance of uneven skin tone; and work synergistically with the Environ Vitamin A moisturisers and Environ Sunscreens Revival Masque – a unique combination of revolutionary ingredients that assist with making the skin look more luminous, smoother and revitalised Vit A & D Supplements Vit A, C, E Body Oil to add the Environ Original Range Moisture Gel, which adds hydration and helps to raise the vitamin A levels. One’s body still needs attention because of exposure to the sun, so at night I like to use the vitamin ACE Body Oil on my arms, chest and legs. The second half of autumn is also the time to consider if you should have a series of Cool Peels that may extend into winter. Environ’s Cool Peel technology is like no other, as we have pioneered the production of Acid creams and thick gels. The Environ Cool Peels are safe and effective; they have a unique method of application. As the peels are applied, water molecules evaporate, causing a cooling effect or sensation on the skin, unlike conventional peeling. Your Qualified Environ Skincare Therapist will be able to analyse your skin and recommend the best treatment option. Autumn is the time to support the skin so that one can enter winter with healthier skin and build it up in preparation for spring. Remember that daily supplements constantly help you to feel and be at your best. PB

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Treatments: Environ Cool Peel treatments Environ DF Facials – a serious result driven treatment; using a combination of Low Frequency Sonophoresis and Pulsed Iontophoresis to enhance further product penetration. This treatment is unique to Environ, as it was designed and pioneered by Dr Des Fernandes. Best used in combination with Environ homecare products.

Dr Des Fernandes is a world renowned aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Professional Skin Care which is found in more than 70 countries world wide. He was a pioneer in the use of vitamin A in skin care formulations. If you would like to pose a question to Dr Des Fernandes, please email the editor on joanna@probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty May 2016

acne treatments

The ‘pizza-face’ syndrome The scourge of many a teenager’s life, as well as a good portion of adults, the unsightly breakouts on the face caused by acne can result in anxiety, reduced self-esteem and depression, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

auses of acne remain the same throughout one’s life, according to Dr Janine Ellenberger (MB, ChB, MMedSc), founder

of GR8/SKN. “There are three major causes of acne, namely hormonal fluctuations, hyperkeratinisation (an excess of keratin in the epidermis), and an overgrowth of the p.acnes bacteria on the skin. “Approximately 85% of people between the ages of 12 and 24 experience at least minor acne. It is worst in boys between the ages of 15 to 24. Girls tend to develop acne around puberty, but often it gets

worse in their 20s and can last until the menopause – the hormonal lifespan in other words. Adult acne is mostly prevalent in women and the major cause is hormonal fluctuation. “There are factors which can make acne flare-ups worse, such as using the wrong make-up, emotional stress, diet, overexposure to the sun and using skincare products that can aggravate breakouts,” explains Ellenberger. She notes that when treating adults with acne as opposed to teenagers, adults require more moisture as they get older, because the barrier function of the skin is compromised. “It is important to include essential fatty acids in the moisturising routine, and

Professional Beauty May 2016

peptides are a good addition as they help with collagen production and reduce the risk of acne scarring.”

Fermented organic rye QMS Medicosmetics products indicated for acne include Intravital Plus, which is suitable for adult and younger skins. The Dermabrasive Gel is offered as a peeling option for problematic skin, as the fermented organic rye in the formulation improves the skin’s good bacteria. The QMS Medicosmetics Med Set is recommended for over-30s with problematic skin. This product contains fermented organic rye as well.

online at www.probeauty.co.za

acne treatments

Also recommended are the Deep Cleansing Lotion and the Freshening Tonic, a complementary cleansing combo for improving the skin’s acid mantle that aids in fighting infection.

Three-in-one Ursula Hunt of DermaFix defines acne as the retention of dead skin cells and the excessive proliferation of additional cells. “To make matters worse, these cells accumulate in the pores of an acne-susceptible family,” she continues. “The DermaFix product range consists of skincare products that include MD Prescriptives’ Mandelic Cleanser and MD Prescriptives’ Mandelic Toner, which assist with acne improvement. These two products contain a key ingredient known as Mandelic Acid, a three-in-one multipurpose formulation that assists with reducing inflammatory, pustular, comedonal and papular acne. Gram-negative folliculitis (inflammation in the hair follicle) also shows improvement with the application of Mandelic Acid.” She notes that Vitamin A, in the form of Retinol, has long been used with success in assisting acne-prone skin. “However, use of this form very often leads to severe skin irritation and sensitivity. MD Prescriptives’ Vitamin A Propionate provides a less antagonistic approach. Used nightly, it assists with the removal of the abnormal cell thickening within the inside lining of the follicle, thereby reversing the process of keratin retention, often associated with the blocking of pores leading to comedogenic build up and pustular lesions. “MD Prescriptives’ Acne Solutions offers anti-bacterial properties, along with providing anti-inflammatory benefits through the inclusion of Niacinamide, Blackcurrant Leaf Extract and Raspberry Leaf Extract. Acne Solutions actively works to reduce sebum oxidation and fight bacterial proliferation, as well as calming redness and irritation. This formulation can be used during the day and the combination of benefits can be seen within days of use.” R

Professional Beauty May 2016

acne treatments

Pic: Dreamstime

Complex formulation The experts at Babor add that the common causes of acne, apart from hormones, are genetics, stress, diet, poor skincare, exercising with makeup on, allergies and medication. The Babor Pure range contains Farnesol, which helps to inhibit bacterial growth and reduces any redness. Also included in the formulation is Phytosphingosines, for strengthening the skin’s own protective lipid barrier, and horsetail for its astringent effect and to promote regeneration. A complex of yeast, Vitamin B and niacinamides helps to regulate the oil balance of the skin.

Regulating and balancing After many years of research, Dr Gobac has developed a comprehensive and effective way forward in the treatment and management of acne, which combines professional treatments with a simple home care routine. Says Dr Robert Gobac: “The Dr Gobac TX professional and home care products are designed to regulate and balance the skin and its protective lipid layers, reducing inflammation, eliminating infection and enhancing the healing process. “By introducing actives like Sphyngo-ceryl and Vitamin A palmitate, the exact quantity and quality of sebum production, one of the main factors in developing acne, is regulated and the lipid layer protection is enhanced. We pay particular attention to protecting the skin against free radicals, one of the main culprits in the ongoing battle against acne. Unicontrazone and

Niacinamid (also known as Vitamin B3) are just some of the actives used to prevent inflammation and enhance the healing process.” All Dr Gobac TX products contain extracts of Dragon’s Blood, one of the most crucial actives used during the cleansing, extraction, protection and treatment phases. “This ingredient has an exceptional proven track record. It acts as a natural anti-microbial agent, eliminating staphylococcus and other microorganisms thus preventing infection, inflammation, ulcers and scar formation, as well as pigmentation during the healing process,” explains Gobac.

Professional Beauty May 2016

Natural plant extracts Kalahari’s PhytoCorrect Serum can be applied to specifically target blemishes, or it can be layered under the daily moisturiser to enhance and purify the skin’s natural appearance. Says Kalahari founder, Carina Franck: “It is a compound of highly effective natural plant extracts that gently, yet effectively, target problematic skin conditions. The anti-inflammatory properties of the Tea Tree and Aloe Vera extracts calm the skin, while neutralising the bacteria involved in the development of acne. This soothing serum will leave your skin feeling purified and revived.” The Kalahari Phyto-Film Toner is a treatment toner that will leave a highly effective film of botanical ingredients on the skin.

Fresh on the market New to South Africa, the BB Cream/ Blemish Balm from Dr Schrammek derma.cosmetics assists with a variety of skin problems and provides

online at www.probeauty.co.za

acne treatments

coverage, protection and an even, flawless complexion. Says Victoria Wagner of Evolution Cosmetic: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Originally Blemish Balm was used to soothed stressed skin and conceal redness after a Dr Schrammek Green Peel treatment, thanks to its anti-inflammatory and calming effect, but as soon as the cream was introduced, it soon became clear that Blemish Balm conceals impurities, evens out redness, refines pores and has a soothing and regenerating effect.â&#x20AC;?

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Local pride Proudly developed in South Africa, the trademarked Skin Doctors Resurfacing Acne Treatment incorporates a mini micro-dermabrasion phase, with its advanced exfoliating crystals gently removing the dull, lifeless top layer of skin to reveal fresh, resurfaced skin. Thereafter a BHA (Beta-Hydroxy Acid) and AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid) cocktail is applied, which assists with treating comedones and millia, whilst

brightening the complexion The treatment also assists to reduce the appearance of visible pores and acne scarring. It is followed by a stem cellboosting mask and finished off with multifunctional day cream. Also from Skin Doctors, T-Zone combines four ingredients ideal for skin that is prone to oiliness and acne in the T-Zone area. The innovation is in the peptide technology used to combat problem prone skin. R

Professional Beauty May 2016

acne treatments

Vitamin A Qanita Jacobs, Environ’s education manager, would advise an acne client to start with Environ Vitamin A moisturisers as soon as possible. “Should the client be using Vitamin A medication, orally or topically, or any medication to treat their skin, we may adapt the skincare regime and product recommendations. We recommend that the client then proceeds with a course of Environ Cool Peel and DF treatments, supported with Environ homecare such as a suitable cleanser and toner, Vitamin A moisturiser (following Environ’s unique step-up system) and RAD SPF 15. “In addition to this the Colostrum Gel and Balancing Masque would be ideal options to boost the skin’s immunity and healing processes. We would also recommend microexfoliation and intense hydration respectively,” states Jacobs.

Anti-inflammatory Jacqui Faucitt of RégimA believes that when treating acne, one must be able to eliminate inflammation. “By doing so one is more than half way to eliminating and then controlling the problem. Irritation and inflammation also lead to hyperpigmentation, often seen in young acne sufferers. “The red, inflamed and swollen skin of an acne sufferer can be reduced dramatically and very quickly with new technology, both natural and biomimetic (synthesised and mimicking nature) actives that provide maximum efficacy without side effects.”

and regulates sebum secretion. It is particularly beneficial for hormonal breakouts. Our Techno-5 Resurfacer has proven to be an excellent antiacne product,” explains Faucitt.

‘Moody’ skin By recognising that everyone’s skin has a unique mood and that not everyone responds to the same products and treatments, Juliette Armand’s range of personalised skincare offers tailormade solutions and a wide variety of offerings to treat all skin moods. Included in the Juliette Armand range are: Clarifying Lotion; Clarifying Foaming Wash; Clarifying Mask; Argile Scrub Mask; Lipocontrol Hydra Gel; and Clarity Therapy Cream. Faucitt advises therapists to look out for the following ingredients: Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate), Vitamin B Complex, Vitamin C; Acnacidol (a synthesised biomimetic version of a hydroxyl acid naturally present in Royal Jelly); Sepicontrol (Capryloyl Glycine, Sarcosine and Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract); Meadowsweet; Biomimetic Tripeptide Peeling (Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate); Black Tea; Dermasensitive (Octyldodecyl Myristate (and) Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract); Nano technology Centella Asiatica Extract; Yeast Beta Glucan; Passionflower; Masterwort; and Salicylic Acid. RégimA’s ‘Turbo Cosmetic’ regime combines five new technologies. “This comprises either a serum or cream containing Meadowsweet, which helps normalise peaks in testosterone

Professional Beauty May 2016

Clean away Dermalogica Clear Start was created specifically for teenagers and young adults and utilises medicated ingredients and soothing botanicals to deliver real results. The Skin Soothing Hydrating Lotion is a lightweight moisturiser that addresses dehydrated and breakoutirritated skin. Moisturising, plantbased Squalane softens and nourishes, while hyaluronic acid provides instant relief to skin dehydration. Gentle botanicals including ginger, orange and grapefruit soothe and protect the skin. Dermalogica’s Blackhead Clearing Pore Control Scrub contains purifying bentonite clay, which absorbs excess oil and debris from skin, and helps to control shine. Refreshing botanicals

online at www.probeauty.co.za

acne treatments

45 reinvigorate skin. Microbeads scrub away, clogging dead skin cells and deep cleaning pores and blackheads, leaving the skin clear and smooth. It is formulated with gentle botanicals including Tea Tree, Menthol and Meadowsweet, known to soothe and cool skin. Breakout Clearing Emergency Spot Fix is a powerful concentrated gel that is applied directly onto individual breakouts. Benzoyl Peroxide kills breakout-causing bacteria deep within pores. Seven gentle botanicals, including Camellia Sinensis, Lavender and Tea Tree, are included in the formula for their ability to calm skin irritation and redness.

Laser & IPLs The Hitech Group offers active acne clearance treatments in the form of Viora systems from Medilase and Lumenis IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) from Hitech Lasers, as well as laser and IPL acne scar treatments from Lumenis. Viora, an Israel-based company, developed its trademarked Smooth protocol, which delivers results through the use of multiple devices and more effective combination protocols. Viora’s IPL and laser light therapies kill acne bacteria, and decrease inflammation. Specifically, Viora’s Smooth reduces the formation and appearance of blemishes, while natural active antibacterial ingredients help prevent bacterial culture. This holistic approach was developed specifically for use with Viora’s Infusion, providing professionals with a fresh approach to skin care. The Lumenis non-ablative acne solution is treatment with its trademarked ResurFX, which, according to Hitech Lasers’ Naomi Olivier, is the only true fractional non-ablative technology available. “Unlike other fractional technologies, ResurFX only needs one pass to be effective, saving time and protecting the patient’s skin,” she continues. “ResurFX uses a 1565nm fibre laser and a very advanced scanner, which enables the user to choose from more than 600 combinations of shape, size and density options, for optimal treatment results. “The CoolScan scanner uses a proprietary algorithm that controls the placement of each fractional spot ad this protects the tissue from heat accumulation and overheating. For skin protection and patient comfort, the ResurFX hand piece is equipped with continuous contact cooling. Since the treatment does not involve tissue evaporation or ablation, treatment downtime is significantly reduced, which is also why it is preferred over ablative treatments by many patients.” PB

Professional Beauty May 2016

RESURFACING BALM RESURFACING BALM

INTENSIVE SCAR REPAIR

Care for Compromised Skin

product focus – lip treatments

Big boost Juliette Armand’s Lip Facial is designed to treat your client’s delicate lip contour. The treatment comprises hyaluronic acid to help plump up the lips and minimise the appearance of fine lines. A duo mask combination instantly hydrates and boosts circulation, leaving the client with satin-soft, lush lips. 011 033 0500

Smooth soothe

Lip service

Mongongo Lip Butter from Kalahari is rich in essential phyto fatty acids and vitamins. This soothing lip butter nourishes dry lips and prevents chapping. The Mongongo seed butter offers natural protection against harmful UV rays and leaves the lips noticeably smoother.

In an era when the ideal mouth contour is considered to be the lips of movie star Angelina Jolie, clients are looking for products that will improve the fullness of the mouth area, and leave the lips feeling smooth and silky.

011 656 1122

Mini treatment Eve Taylor has announced the launch of its mini treatment – Perfect Pout! Lip Treatment. This treatment focuses on the often neglected lip area to smooth, soften, hydrate, plump and protect. It uses newly developed specialised techniques combined with highly active natural-based products. +44 (0)1733 260161

Professional Beauty May 2016

online at www.probeauty.co.za

product focus – lip treatments

All in the contours

Plumped up Suitable for fine lines on the lips and pronounced wrinkles around the mouth area, Babor’s Derma Cellular Anti-Wrinkle Booster for Lips works by plumping lip volume internally and by stimulating the skin’s own hyaluronic acid synthesis, leaving the lip area visibly smoother. It is ideal for use in conjunction with subcutaneous injections. 011 467 0110

Phytomer’s Youth Contour Smoothing Eye and Lip Cream is an ultramoisturising, creamy textured product that plumps the lip area and smooths wrinkles. It contains Dilsea Carnosa extract, Marine Pro-Collagen, Pheohydrane (Laminaria digitata) and Phytomer’s flagship ingredient, Oligomer. 011 486 4904

All a-glow

Instantaneous effect Lonsdaleite Instant Lip Plumper immediately delivers a super boost and alleviates lines and crinkles around the mouth. The product uses advanced hyaluronic spheres and includes a peptide to extend and increase the smoothness of the lips and volume over time, by stimulating an increase in collagen and hyaluronic acid.

Glo-minerals Lip Plumper is infused with spheres of Marine Collagen Atelocollgen. These spheres work to plump lips by trapping water and swelling, thus providing volume to the skin’s structures. Pepperderived Capsicum Extract stimulates lips, resulting in a ‘tingling’ sensation and rosy tint. 021 552 6999

082 958 1872

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty May 2016

inspiring today’s hairdresser the time for cHAnge is here!

Date: 28 & 29 August 2016 Venue: Gallagher Convention Centre Opening Times: Sunday 10h00 – 18h00 Monday 10h00 – 17h00

Increase your knowledge • Stage Demos • Hair Competition • Exhibitor Demos ✪ Introducing Sensational Seminar Sessions Whether you are looking for personal or business growth, these attractions are not to be missed. Come along and gain invaluable advice from the top ndustry professionals on how you can make your efforts and creatively translate in a successful business.

the event for your professional hair business Register now for your fRee ticket and save the R250 entry fee.

www.salonafrica.co.za Salon Africa was previously known as Professional Hair

hair news

Crowning

glory

Tress-a-licious news from the hair front.

Frizz be gone! Inoar’s Argan Oil Thermaliss is a chemical-free, de-frizzing balm that works to make hair increasingly straight, while protecting it from heat styling. Infused with Inoar’s Argan Oil, known for its anti-frizz effect, frequent use of Thermoliss guarantees hair with intense shine and progressive results.

Hold fast Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Strong is a flexible hairspray for building long-lasting styles, with a movable yet strong hold. Its lightweight and workable finishing formula blankets hair in a reflective shield of shine that fights fizz and humidity yet brushes out easily and leaves no sticky residue.

012 346 1721

011 305 1600

The thicker, the better

The SynergiCare Instant Smooth range from Itely Hair Fashion is specifically designed to tackle the causes of frizz, whether the hair is naturally coarse or has a curly texture that is prone to frizz. With Instant Smooth, hair looks and feels visibly different after a single application.

Nioxin’s Diaboost Thickening Xtrafusion Treatment is an advanced leave-in treatment that can be used to increase the thickness of each strand of hair, making your mane more manageable and full. It also protects your hair against damage. This product recently won Best Hair Treatment at Ireland’s Xposé Beauty Awards.

011 305 1600

0860 104 109

In synergy

online at www.probeauty.co.za

Professional Beauty May 2016

• Centimetre loss is due to the combination of the Patricia Clarke contouring gel & bandages. • The compression of the bandages and the active ingredients contained targets the toxins in the adipose tissue. • It breaks down the fatty tissue which is absorbed through the lymph duct and finally passes through the body. • The active ingredients in the contouring gel work in synergy to improve the texture of the skin, helping to avoid a spongy appearance. • Home care garments used in conjunction with the body contouring gel offers amazing centimetre loss.

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The all day, everyday solution to quick and easy centimetre loss and body contouring.The Neoprene garments focus on speciﬁc parts of the body. Contouring health belt consists of 16 magnets sewn into the superior quality Neoprene lycra.

USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GELTO SPEED UP CENTIMETRE LOSS.

• Brings Relief to tired legs – ideal for ﬂights. • All sheer double cover Lycra. • Full boarded ﬂat seams cotton gusset.

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USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GEL TO SPEED UP CONTOUR RESULTS

Anti Cellulite all day Firm Body Contour. Seamless, Latex Spandex ultralight shapewear. Hygienic. ALLERGY FREE! Used by plastic surgeons after surgery. USE WITH PATRICIA CLARKE GEL TO SPEED UP CENTIMETRE LOSS.

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S I M O N E P E R E L E – A N D O R A B R A This bra offers everyday chic styling and an exceptional ﬁt that hugs the breasts and accentuates the cleavage without adding any extra volume. Innovative 3 Dimensional breathable knit fabric creates a moulded bra that feels like a second skin and embodies a woman’s natural curves for absolute comfort. No seams or stitching in the nipple area. Available in chocolate, white, black and nude (ﬁts up to a F cup). For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa • Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 • patricianewsum@yahoo.com • www.patricia-clarke.com • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032

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Enhances the breast shape! Natural and feminine!

body detox treatments

Taking the cure Infinitely preferably to going on a juice diet for several days at a time in order to rid the body of toxins, in-salon body detoxifying treatments should be an essential item on any treatment menu and a fairly easy sell to clients, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.

ypically body detox treatments include some sort of exfoliation to rid the skin of dead cells, followed by the application of active ingredients, usually in the form of mud or a wrap. Sometimes a massage that focuses on the pressure points within the body is included, to help eliminate environmental and dietary toxins. Hydro facilities such as steam or baths can be incorporated if the treatment is offered in spas. Body detox treatments are also often an important part of slimming programmes and cellulite treatments. Lilian Terry International (LTI) has two specific detox products – its Detoxifying Body Wrap as well as the Detoxifying Bath Oil. Says LTI general manager, Carli Argirova:

online at www.probeauty.co.za

“Our Detoxifying Body Wrap has been designed to accelerate the removal of foreign chemicals such as air pollutants, chemical pesticides and to decrease the damaging effect of free radicals. It’s an excellent treatment for people who are exposed to high levels of stress and pollution and those who suffer from lack of energy due to unhealthy lifestyles and lack of exercise.” Key ingredients include sun-dried, naturally pigmented yellow clay rich in copper; sulphur and iron. These minerals improve circulation and oxygen penetration to connective tissue, maintain and improve the health of blood vessels and accelerate the excretion of toxic wastes. R

Professional Beauty May 2016

body detox treatments

our superior botanical extracts, this refreshing mist will improve your complexion, restore radiance and reduce the signs of premature ageing.”

Body wrap Pic: Kalahari

The LTI Detoxifying Bath Oil stimulates the process of detoxification, whilst moisturising the skin. Containing essential oils such as grapefruit and lavender, this product comes in both a professional size for use in spa/jet baths, as well as a retail size for clients to take home and enjoy.

From the desert

Pic: Symphony Health

Kalahari’s Baobab Phyto Acid Treatment includes the company’s new Phyto Compounding System, which provides exceptional skin detoxifying results by incorporating 100% organic, unadjusted Phyto Acids and Vegetable Enzymes. “The client will experience visible brightening, firming and detexturisation with these highly effective professional treatments,” says Kalahari founder, Carina Franck. “For home care following the treatment, we offer Phyto Facial Mist, which is fortified with Cell Detox, a new phyto-effective extract that assists your skin’s natural detoxifying processes, while giving a natural boost to tired-looking skin. Together with

The technique of body wrap or bandaging is one of the simplest methods of body detoxification, according to Christelle Newsum, senior consultant at Symphony Health cc T/A Patricia Clarke. “This technique is used to distribute the special plant-based Patricia Clarke Contouring Gel to the problem areas,” says Newsum. “The body is then bound with our special compression bandages. After a period of 60 minutes, the gel permeates the connective tissues, activates lymphatic drainage and stimulates circulation. We stress to the therapist that this is not a ‘sweat it out’ treatment, nor is it the type of slimming cure where the weight is fleetingly lost through profuse perspiration and regained after a glass of water. In fact, we urge clients to drink plenty of water after the treatment as this assists in further detoxing of the body.” She explains that the body remains dry throughout the wrap treatments and, as intracellular fluids are mobilised, the diuretic properties assist in the elimination of cellulite and toxins. Flab and ‘soft fat’ respond particularly well to wrapping since, depending on the client’s resilience, the flesh can be bound very tightly to ‘lift’ the sagging part of the body.

Professional Beauty May 2016

There is no need for the client to shower after the treatment. “The success of the system is due to the properly formulated suspension of specially selected elements and plant extracts which complement each other and act in synergy to bring about 18-80 centimetre loss in 60 minutes. The centimetre loss is an overall loss as measurements are taken from the bust through to the ankles. The Patricia Clarke Contouring Gel contains 27 different plant extracts with strengthening, diuretic and stabilising properties. “Our compression bandages are elasticised and fasten with a Velcro attachment. Compression bandages are very useful for reducing swelling; these bandages are made in different sizes to accommodate different parts of the body. Compression bandages reduce swelling by aiding your veins to return excess fluid to your circulation.”

Exfoliating energy MatsiMela Home Spa believes in the benefit of exfoliation and has designed specific exfoliation products to be combined in an array of treatments. The focus is on removing dead skin cells and increasing circulation and lymphatic flow, as well as hydration. The Exfoliating Mud Scrub contains natural silica. Its small particle size gives a smooth and polished exfoliation and can even be applied onto the face. As its name suggests, the Sugar Scrub is a blend of fine sugar, deeply moisturising oils, essential oils and fine sugar. It is excellent for an all over body exfoliation. Kalahari Salt Scrub contains pure natural Kalahari salt and a decadent blend of fragrance and essential oils enriched with Jojoba oil. Excellent for all over body exfoliation, the rough

online at www.probeauty.co.za

body detox treatments

53 texture of these pure salts stimulates the superficial blood circulation and removes dead skin cells. This promotes cellular renewal and increased penetration of the essential oils. Following the all over body exfoliation, the MatsiMela Pure Rose Clay is recommended for its purifying, nourishing and restorative action. It is made from the finest quality clay and is rich in minerals and trace elements such as magnesium, iron oxides, aluminium, manganese, silica and calcium. The rose clay is sun-dried.

Pearls of wisdom Black Pearl has two detoxifying masks in its arsenal. The Prestige G Mask is a black mud mask containing crushed Tahitian black pearl, hydrating seaweed, and 27 mineral salts incorporated with amino acids. “This is applied to the skin and works in three amazing ways with the skin,” says Black Pearl South Africa’s Michelle Roberts. “While applying the mask it begins to exfoliate the skin, as it is left upon the skin as a

mask. It is then removed with a semiprecious Natural stone, which draws out all impurities and leaves behind a beautiful and fine Japanese Oil to hydrate and nourish the skin.” She notes that the Black Pearl Thermal Mask incorporates ‘a phenomenal ingredient’ called Zeolite, which is integrated with drops of water onto the skin. The zeolite and water create a heat catalytic reaction, allowing the skin to open and purge all of the negative toxins and absorb the healing Black Pearl ingredients.

Potent combination Juliette Armand’s Detox Body Therapy is a 60-minute treatment that aims to decongest the body and improve circulation, and to achieve maximum results in slimming and cellulite therapies. It combines the power of seaweed and plant extracts. PB

nails

The science of

nails When the science behind nails is fully understood, everything about what you do as a nail tech, and how you do it, becomes clear, writes Sonette van Rensburg.

have heard a lot of people make the comment that nails arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t rocket science, meaning that doing nails is easy and requires only common sense. Well, it may not be rocket science in the true meaning of the phrase, but there certainly is a science to nails and there is so much more to it than just providing a nail service. It is not just your skill that is important in ensuring you provide a good and professional service, but most importantly having a vast knowledge and a good, sound understanding about everything that there is to know about nails and nail products. No matter if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re doing basic manicures, enhancements, nail coatings or

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nail art, it all goes back to something I am so passionate about and that is education. This encompasses anatomy and what makes up the natural nail, to the chemistry of nail products. Without the necessary knowledge and understanding of how everything works, a nail technician will not know what they are working with, or how to perform a service effectively to make sure their clients gain maximum benefit from the service. Most importantly, they also need to know how to identify and solve problems with service breakdown, should they occur. A successful nail technician is not only someone who is able to offer a professional and outstanding service result, but should also be able R

Professional Beauty May 2016

nails

56 How much faith would you have in a plumber who constantly referred to the dishwasher as a toilet? Of course, we would find it difficult to respect them, despite their skills. Using proper terminology prevents confusion and misunderstanding, as well as raises professional standards.”

Natural nail anatomy

to answer any questions and offer expert advice and make the necessary recommendations, so that a client is able to maintain their service, nails and skin in the best condition.

Incorrect terminology Using the correct terminology when referring to anything to do with nails and nail products is the first most important step to being a successful nail professional.

Here is what internationally renowned product chemist, Doug Schoon, wrote in an article for NAILS magazine, called, Where is the cuticle? “Some may believe it’s doesn’t matter if we use the correct terminology, but I don’t understand this thinking. One of the hallmarks of any profession is the use of proper terminology. Would you want your blood drawn by a nurse who didn’t know the difference between your veins and arteries?

Professional Beauty May 2016

It’s amazing how many people still believe that the natural nail breathes and that it can repair itself. If you knew more about the anatomy of the natural nail, you would know that this is not true and that the nail unit is in fact very intricate and quite complex in its make-up and chemistry. The nail plate is actually made of keratin – a network of protein chains made up of amino acids, which means it is a non-living substance. The nail bed to which the nail plate is attached, is very much alive and is full of capillaries and nerve endings and has an important function, but then again there is the matrix, eponychium, hyponychium, proximal nail fold, sole horn, cuticle and lunula, which all have their own function and purpose. Looking a little deeper into what makes up the natural nail

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nails

57 systems and what differentiates them from one another and the process by which they become a solid durable coating. With all nail coatings and systems there are advantages and disadvantages, however there are ways and means of overcoming them, as long as the nail technician has the knowledge and skill to identify problems and solve them wthout causing harm or damage to themselves or their clients.

Product application procedures & steps

and understanding the scientific meaning of these terms can help nail technicians take better care of their clients’ nails.

Diseases & disorders So often a fungal infection is mistaken for a bacterial infection and vice versa. Many other diseases and disorders, which are thought to be contagious, actually aren’t and those which are, can sometimes be handled with little care. If you don’t know anything about this most important topic you could end up spreading a contagious condition and causing potential harm.

Product science & technology Through the years product chemists have constantly strived to innovate and formulate products, improving the science and technology behind them, bringing them to the forefront of the industry. Today’s product technology is extremely high tech and advanced, resulting in a multitude of professional products, which are unique and different from one another, giving them the edge in the industry. Nail polishes, nail enhancement systems and gel polishes are related to the same chemical family and are inevitably all made from acrylics, but work on different principles when bonding together. It is therefore important to understand these

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Product procedures, steps and protocols are in place for a very good reason, to guide the nail technician. When learning certain techniques be sure to stick to them and master them as they are important in ensuring you achieve the correct and desired results.

Brand & product integrity Many nail techs make the fatal mistake of thinking that all nail products are created equal. There are many good professional products and brands available nowadays, but don’t be mistaken in thinking that you can mix and match products from different brands. Products and systems are manufactured to be chemically compatible with one another, so as to get the best possible results. For example, when using a base coat, nail polish colour and top coat, they should all be from the same brand. The same is true of an enhancement system – you can’t use liquid monomer from one brand and polymer powder from another, and the same goes for gels, which are made specifically to be used with either an LED or UV lamp. Plenty of research goes into the development of products in order to get the best results, with each having their own specific purpose and unique qualities, all specially formulated to complement and work in synergy with one another.

After care advice & recommendations Your clients know more than you think, however, sometimes they think they know what’s best for them, which can prove challenging to deal

with. How you deal with the situation is going to make all the difference in how the client perceives you. As the nail professional you need to portray professionalism on every level. Don’t guess or thumb suck information, make sure your information is factual and makes sense and is to the best benefit of the service and client, and never do anything which goes against your professional know-how. Nail services and products should rarely cause problems no matter what service is conducted, whether natural nail care, nail enhancement or nail coating services. Potential problems can be avoided by using high quality products and proper procedures, according to manufacturers’ instructions and protocols. Remember to always set a good example, by ensuring your services are safe, sanitary and of a high professional standard. A skilled, knowledgeable and professional nail technician can make all the difference. There is still so much potential for growth and advancement in our industry and it is up to us as professionals to stand together and to collaborate to keep it a healthy and professional one. It is everyone’s professional responsibility to be involved, informed and well educated and to make sure that we carry that message through. For our industry to grow and prosper we have to make sure we stay up to date with growing trends, techniques, advancement in product technology and most importantly, education. In conclusion, if you know more about your nail chemistry and the science behind it, there is no doubt that you will be able to continue to provide the best and most professional services to your clients. PB

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 26 years. She trains salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. Email: sonettevr@gmail.com

Professional Beauty May 2016

product news

In the market

Our round-up of newly launched products.

Rousing relaunch

Concentrated retinol The Exuviance Super Retinol Concentrate from NeoStrata was specifically created to defy gravity and helps to firm and smooth wrinkles and texture. Time-release encapsulated pure retinol combined with patented NeoGlucosamine synergistically supercharges the volumising, firming and pigment-evening effects.

Doctor Babor Repair Cellular marks the first of the incredibly impactful Dr Babor ranges to be relaunched. It delivers rapid, visible and measurable results more effectively, more precisely and more innovatively than ever before. This is thanks to skin research at a cellular level. The Biogen Plant extract strengthens each single skin cell.

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Unlike cosmetic-grade skincare products, CrĂ¨me Classiqueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Advanced Anti-Ageing Cell Repair Serum is infused with Matrixyl, which is scientifically and clinically formulated to provide skin with a long term anti-ageing solution. The product is endorsed by respected Pretoria skin specialist, Dr Hardie De Beer.

Rainbow Bath & Beauty has changed the formulation of its salt body scrubs to contain 25% shea butter, spelling out a more nourishing scrub that is not overly abrasive. The sea salts used are hand harvested and solar dried. Body scrubs are available in vanilla, tea tree, rose, peppermint and grapefruit and in three sizes.

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Professional Beauty May 2016

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medical aesthetics

The chill drill Described as ‘The Ice Wand’, Frotox is a toxin-free alternative to botulinum jabs, writes Dr Janine Olivier.

hat if I could freeze your facial muscles so that your wrinkles disappear, but I do not inject a purified poison into your lovely face? What if you were still able to use your muscles for facial expression … without forming lines? Frotox (‘Iovera’ or ‘Coldtox’) promises to do just that. When you put your hand into a bucket of ice, your fingers become numb and hard to move – this is the effect of extreme cold on muscles, also called ‘cryoneuromodulation’. Smart scientists have bottled this nifty effect into a pen-like device that delivers an intense 30-second ‘cold jolt’ that shocks the nerve into a numb state for up to four months. Your muscles relax completely and ‘Abracadabra!’ wrinkles disappear immediately, as opposed to purified

botulinum toxin, that takes between four and 14 days to reach full effect.

Medical effects This cryoneuromodulation technology has been used for many decades in the medical field of neurology to relieve chronic pain. It is, however, a highly specialised procedure, and is only administered by doctors with the proper certification. The device is FDA-cleared in the US for treatment of headaches, and in Europe it is being used off-label as an anti-aging anti-wrinkle treatment in the realms of plastic surgery and aesthetic medicine.

The ‘nitty-gritty’ mechanics This pen-like device is loaded with a liquid nitrogen cartridge before use, and, at the touch of a button, the circulation of nitrogen gas within the device creates a precise-cold-zone at

Professional Beauty May 2016

the smart-needle tip, which is made of closed-end needles, so nothing comes out of it. A TENS (Trans-cutaneous Electrical Nerve Stimulation) machine is used to pinpoint the target nerves, before the precision-chill can be administered to numb these nerves. After the nerves are pinpointed, a local anaesthetic (lidocaine) is injected to numb the area and the treatment probe is injected at each marked site (an average of about four on each temple) to zap the nerves into submission.

Side effects So far, there has been no report of long-term side effects or any dangers from having the treatment. As no toxins are used, this treatment is predicted to be extremely safe. Usual side effects associated with the treatment are mostly short-lived, just

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medical aesthetics

61 Frotox has an instant effect and is very cool... but Botox® still reigns supreme in the aesthetic world due to:

Dr Janine Olivier obtained her MBChB in 2006, and has been practising aesthetic medicine and publishing in the field since 2009. Dr Olivier is a member of the American Academy of Aesthetic Medicine (AAAM) and is currently enrolled in a Masters of Medicine at the University of Pretoria in Chemical Pathology. She serves as medical advisor to HuidAesthetic in Waterkloof Heights, Pretoria. Dr Olivier has a clinical and scientific interest in the bio-molecular basis of the ageing process, chemistry of treatment modalities and cosmeceutical composition.

Ease of availability of approved product and certified medical practitioners. Purified Botulinum Toxin A is versatile and can be injected into multiple sites of face and body, while Frotox offers limited treatment area options. Botulinum neuromodulator has years of studies backing it up and a great track record in aesthetics and is safe when administered by a registered, certified medical doctor.

like any other aesthetics procedure involving needles, and include bleeding, bruising and swelling.

Will Frotox replace facial creams in the future? Frotox is a cool new choice for people who don’t want to inject toxin into their faces. It is aimed to help people who want to reduce dynamic forehead wrinkles without the use of toxins, or those who cannot have Botox due to other medical reasons. However, it does not hydrate the skin, clean the skin or introduce antiageing cosmoceutical molecules into the skin for a plump healthy and glowing complexion, so the realm of cosmeceuticals is still safe in my opinion. Argireline is the cosmeceutical product that has been likened to ‘Botox in a tub’. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is a synthetic anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. It is a peptide which is a fragment of SNAP-25, a substrate of Botulinum toxin (Botox). Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is marketed as Argireline by the Barcelona-based research laboratory Lipotec. It is the blending of these Argireline peptides in creams that attempts to decrease the visible effects of ageing by reducing the deep wrinkles and lines around the eyes and forehead. Chemically, when you apply an Argireline peptide to specific areas, it inhibits the reactions that cause muscles to move or contract. But there are no long-term studies to prove the efficacy of the product and the effect, sadly, is brief and less effective than the injections.

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Frotox vs Botox As the cool new option in the aesthetic world, Frotox is a wonderful alternative that gives you a choice when you want to get rid of the nasties. But, in reality, the quiet, transparent botulinum toxin A still reigns supreme in the anti-aging arena. It is easily accessible and most aesthetic practitioners are certified to provide this treatment, plus it is affordable. This faithful treatment is versatile and can be injected into multiple sites of the face and body, while Frotox offers limited treatment area options. Besides, we have years of data and studies backing this purified neuromodulator’s side-effects and safety profile and US doctors are

always cautious and sceptical about using anything without a proven track record.

Mirror, mirror on the wall… So, I happily wave around my insulin syringe with purified neurotoxin and ‘Abracadabra!’ wrinkles be gone! They really are gone, even if it takes a few days to show. It is easily available and less precision is necessary when delivering the toxin than the absolute accuracy required with Frotox, which can leave you in a numb nightmare when the wrong muscle is frozen. So, ‘chillax’! – we still have botulinum jabs with a proven track record and a practitioner near your home. PB

Who cannot take botulinum toxin injections? Botulinum Toxin Type A is contraindicated in patients with known hypersensitivity including aminoglycosides or curare-like compounds

Myasthenia gravis

Botulinum Toxin Type A may interact with medications that affect neuromuscular transmissions

Eaton-Lambert syndrome or

If there is infection at the proposed site of injection

who are pregnant (pregnancy category B3)

Professional Beauty Mar/Apr 2016

saahsp

62 South African Association of Health and Skincare Professionals

Cidesco Section South Africa

Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta

SAAHSP Professional Body recognition On 31 March 2016, SAAHSP, the official professional body for the industry since 2013, was awarded the SAAHSP Professional Body Recognition Certificate.

AAHSP is a non-profit organisation, seeking to further the health and skincare profession in South Africa, as well as the interests of individuals engaged in this profession and the public interest.

Process followed for Professional Body Recognition In 2011 SAQA (South African Qualification Authority) introduced Professional Associations/Professional Bodies; SAAHSP applied to represent the health & skincare industry. On 19 March 2013, SAQA formally registered SAAHSP as the Non-Statutory Professional body for the Beauty, Health and Skincare and Somatology industry. SAAHSP underwent its first successful midterm evaluation in 2015.

SAAHSP met the following criteria: 1. A legally constituted entity with the necessary human and financial resources, with staff and income to run a viable organisation. 2. Governed by a constitution, statute or charter: in the process of applying SAAHSP operated with a constitution registered as a Section 21 Company, but submitted its Company Memorandum of Incorporation, which was accepted and filed on 29 October 2015. 3. Protect the public in relation to the service provided by its members and the associate risk – SAAHSP has done this for many years. 4. Develop, award, monitor and revoke professional designations in terms of its own rules, legislation and/or international conventions. 5. Submit data in terms of designated member to upload onto the NLRD. 6. Set criteria, promote and monitor CPD. 7. Publish a Code of Ethics.

How were the designations confirmed and registered? Even though a designation is NOT a qualification, it has to be linked to a qualification. A qualification is a programme consisting of 120 credits or more (1 year). After evaluating the various qualifications listed on the NQF (National Qualification Framework), the following designations were confirmed and registered: Nail Technologist: 1 year of study or equivalent with Portfolio of Evidence (Qualification 80646)

Professional Beauty May 2016

SAAHSP Professional Body receives certificate from Jody Cedras SAQA (middle) accepted by Menna Kleine (President) and Joelette Theron (Professional Body and Education Facilitator)

Beauty Technologist: 1 year of study (Qualification 80646) Beauty Therapist: 2 years of study (Qualification 58310) Somatologist: 3 years of study and higher (3 year Diploma/ BTEC Degree or Equivalent) These designations are registered to SAAHSP Professional Body AHSP849 – the official acronym used for our Professional Body. Any individual who uses these titles /designations must subscribe to the Professional Body’s Code of Ethics and Code of Conduct. As a Professional Body it is SAAHSP’s statutory responsibility to police/guard/protect the public and the profession as a whole. This will ensure that our industry is self-regulatory and through the CPD process, we will elevate our industry to the professional standard that we pride ourselves on.

SAAHSP Professional Body Committee – call for experts SAHSP has issued an Invitation to Stakeholders to form part of the SAAHSP Professional Body. This committee will ensure that the statutory functions of the Professional Body so delegated by SAQA and governed by the NQF ACT are adhered to. The committee will comprise two SAAHSP Board members holding the Professional Body Portfolio, Secretary, Education Bodies, Employee Representative, Employer Representative, Industry Representative and Governmental Representatives from Services SETA, DHET, CHE and QCTO. SAAHSP requires nominations for Employee, Employer and Industry Representatives. Nominations will be processed by the Professional Body board members, Education Chair and Education Committee. CLOSING DATE FOR NOMINATIONS: 29 April 2016 Contact Joelette Theron joelette@saahsp.co.za or 011 675 6519

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64 EDUCATION AND TRAINING

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