Oct/Nov 2014
www.probeauty.co.za
Software savvy Wise programme choices
Kick-start the complexion
Vanquishing
VEINS
Skin rejuvenation equipment
Treatment reviews
Epic epilation Waxing and sugaring
Nail
metamorphosis Gels and acrylics
Everyone loves a
Winner Who won what at the awards
72
62
28
In this issue... Regulars
Medical Aesthetics
5 Industry news
72 TCA peels – the truth
Local and international news
76 Product news
All the latest launches
All you need to know
Nails
71 Hair news
66 Enhanced performance
What’s hot and happening in the hair industry
78 SAAHSP
The latest news from SAAHSP
Business 12 Choosing the right management software
Industry-specific options
17 Know your business – know your data
Facts & figures at your fingertips
18 5 Steps to the EU market
Important information for SA manufacturers
Gels and acrylics
Features 20 Ask the expert
Getting the word out
28 The quest for bald skin
Waxing and sugaring
34 The show that rocked!
Professional Beauty Johannesburg report
38 Creativity at the fore
Nail & Make-up Competitions
41 The best of the best
Professional Beauty Awards
47 Industry Awards
All the winners
52 Treatment reviews
Spider-vein removal
57 Behind ‘the growth signal’
Profiling Sonic Medical Systems’ Ali Hussain
58 Facing up to technology
Latest skin rejuvenation machines
62 Au naturel
Natural and organic products
Spa Focus 22 When the going gets tough…
History of spas in South Africa
26 An unusual aesthetic
Inside Spaesthetique
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41
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
Welcome
I
t seems strange to be writing a welcome note for the last issue of the year, but such is the case. Where on earth did 2014 go? It feels like only yesterday that it was January and then – zap! – suddenly Christmas is only a few weeks away. In terms of the beauty industry, while some distributors have commented that it has been a tough year, what with the recession and the disastrous exchange rate, the spa industry appears to be thriving, as our article on the history of spas in South Africa reveals. This issue includes focuses on two aspects of the industry that are sure-fire money spinners – epilation and machine-based skin rejuvenation. Waxing and sugaring may have been around since ancient times, but there is a constant refining of modern technologies, while skin rejuvenation equipment is positively space-age. A large portion of this magazine is dedicated to the worthy winners of the 2014 Professional Beauty Awards and Industry Awards, as well as to the exciting Hair, Nail and Make-up competitions that took place at the recent highly successful Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at Gallagher Convention Centre. No sooner is one expo finished than the Professional Beauty team is hard at work on the next one. We are already looking forward to Professional Beauty Durban 2015, in its new time slot of March 1-2. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor
Oct/Nov 2014
www.probeauty.co.za
Software savvy Wise programme choices
Kick-start the complexion
Vanquishing
VEINS
Subscribe 9 issues for R450 (RSA) To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
Skin rejuvenation equipment
Treatment reviews
Epic epilation Waxing and sugaring
Nail
metamorphosis Gels and acrylics
Everyone loves a
On the cover Cover source: www.shutterstock.com
Publisher Mark Moloney
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Managing Director Yolanda Knott
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WINNER WHO WON WHAT AT THE AWARDS
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STUDY GUIDES COMPILED BY EXPERTS WITH EXPERIENCE IN EDUCATION For the foundational subjects required to achieve the unit standards of the NQF Level 5 Diploma in Health and Skincare and Therapeutic Complementary Therapies. Worksheets and self-evaluation question papers are included. • Give your students what they like best: To-the-point notes and questions for self-evaluation • Ensure excellent results • Promote self-study • Meet accredited standards
ANATOMY & PHYSIOLOGY WORKBOOK APPLIED PHYSICS The physics behind the machines BASIC CHEMISTRY Made easy COSMETIC SCIENCE The foundation to a successful
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DERMATOLOGY Unlocking the gate to successful & accurate skin analysis
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AROMATHERAPY PRACTICE For wellness and spas THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS Blending skills
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HEIBIX MODULAR STUDIES WE CATER FOR THE ULTIMATE LEARNING EXPERIENCE © HEIBIX cc P.O. Box 2218, Dennesig, 7601, Phone: 021 883 3803, Fax: 021 886 7472, E-mail: heibix@polka.co.za
industry news
5
News All the news and views from the world of beauty, spa and nails.
Rudi Rudolph, Michael Ten Hope, Ian Fuhr and Fred Withers
Fast And Furious opens Waxing Academy
Sorbet targets male market South African beauty group Sorbet has added a new dimension to its stable by opening the first-ever Sorbet Man in Sandton City, Johannesburg.
T
The recently opened Fast and Furious Waxing Academy has successfully completed its first course and launched a Google campaign and social media strategy to help attract students. Says owner Adele Mans: “After hosting a stand at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo last month, we are extremely positive about feedback from the industry, from therapists as well as salon and spa owners who recognise the extreme need for specialised waxing skills. “Feedback indicates that most client complaints in full service spas or salons are as a direct result of poor waxing techniques that leave clients either still hairy or with broken skin.” Mans is proud to have opened the first training facility in South Africa that focuses solely on the art of specialised waxing, including intimate waxing for male and female clients, in modular form.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
he official launch took place on 12 September in the presence of over 60 high-profile guests. According to Sorbet marketing coordinator Courtney Fuhr, the decision to open Sorbet Man was based on market demand. “There was definitely a gap in the market for a grooming bar that would meet the demands of today’s new-age man. Further to that, however, we had always envisioned a big brother for the Sorbet Salons, it was just a matter of market timing and prime positioning. “We can say with conviction that we are the only male grooming bar in Gauteng that offers all the bells and whistles of barbering and male grooming, in one convenient hub.”
The treatment menu includes shaves, haircuts and colour treatments, facials, waxes, manicures & pedicures, and male hair and body products. Fuhr notes that Sandton City was an obvious choice for Sorbet Man. “Sandton City caters for an upper LSM market that typically entertains selfinvestment. The traffic demographic comprises men that demand more from their day, their performance and their look.” The Sorbet Group consists of Sorbet Salons, Sorbet Nail Bars, Sorbet Dry Bar, Candi & Co and now, Sorbet Man, situated at L36 (Entrance 6) Sandton City.
News in pictures
Team DermaFix recently attended a live training workshop with the renowned Dr Lance Setterfield, an expert in the field of microneedling, and author of The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
industry news
6 News in brief ■ ISPA recognises Mio Skincare: An ISPA (International Spa Association) Innovate Award will be presented to Mio Skincare at the upcoming ISPA Conference & Expo in Las Vegas for innovative and successful spa-related initiatives.
Africology opens fifth spa Local spa and skincare brand Africology opened its latest spa on 18 September. It is on 4th Avenue in Parkhurst, Johannesburg.
T
he event also served as the launch pad for Africology’s Grape Stem Cell technology. “We are very excited about introducing this technology into our treatment offerings as it offers great benefits for our clients,” said Africology MD Renchia Droganis. “Grapes are characterised by an extremely high anthocyanin content – anthocyanins being powerful antioxidants and free radical scavengers. They are
enhanced by the interaction of special epigenetic factors and metabolites to help protect the skin and epidermal stem cells from UV radiation and premature photoaging.” The Africology Spa in Parkhurst is the brand’s fifth spa, with the others situated at the Maslow Hotel in Sandton, the Boardwalk Hotel in PE, the Zone in Rosebank and EXEC|Care in Dunkeld.
New moves The Spa Consultants announce two new appointments – Michelle Arde as national sales manager and Kiara Nichol as KZN business development consultant for Six Sensational Skincare and Spalicious brands. “We are very proud to have these two dynamic and incredible ladies on our team,” says MD of The Spa Consultants, Marisa Dimitriadis.
■ Dr. Baumann’s spa success: The recently opened Dr. Baumann spa in Bryanston, Johannesburg, saw 300 pairs of feet through its door in the first month of business, with R80 000 worth of retail sales generated. ■ SA PMU artist involved in US research: Sulé Loggenberg of Permanent Makeup Technology and PMSSA was invited by BR Industries in the US to be part of research into PMU (permanent makeup). BR Industries publishes books for the beauty industry in the US. ■ MUD (Make-up Designory) opens in Western Cape: The recently opened MUD (Make-Up Designory) Showroom in the Western Cape is the sixth of its kind in South Africa and is owned by Lindsay Fernandez. ■ Elizabeth Arden Pro launches: Consumer beauty brand Elizabeth Arden is entering the professional skincare market with the launch of Elizabeth Arden Pro. The line offers two peeling systems.
Michelle Arde
Kiara Nichol
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
■ Sparkle Nail Academy CT moves: The new address for Sparkle Nail Academy Cape Town is: Ground Floor, North Block, Tennery Park, 21-23 Belmont Road, Rondebosch. Contact the Academy on training@sparklesa.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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industry news
8
Record-breaking response to Professional Beauty Delhi Over 250 brands exhibited at the recent Professional Beauty Delhi, the two-day event held in India that attracted 9 417 visitors.
B
rands on display included Kryolan (Official Make-up Partner), Babor, Balmain Hair, Bomb Cosmetics UK, Casmara, Ceriotti, Colournow Cosmetics, Cuccio, Dexe Group, GTG Korea, International Beauty Partners, Macadamia Hair, Max Factor, Mix Edge LCC, Nirvel Cosmetics, Perish Professional, Rica Hair and Sally Hansen, among others. From the latest in make-up to organic beauty, the exhibition floor was jam-packed with workshops and demos on upcoming trends in the beauty and wellness industry. This included a workshop on makeup, hair and nails by leading artists, such as Carlo Oliveri, Charmaine Rao, Isao Tokumi, Jorge Jimene, Leanne Simmons and Marvie Ann Beck, to name a few. Innovations from the Professional Beauty team included the VTCT
‘Visions of India’ competition, where the international accreditation centre conducted a national makeup competition. Trade buyers also experienced an exclusive skin demo lounge that displayed live skin demos through both days of the show. Says exhibitor Pedro Periche of
Beauty Business Boot Camp 2015 announced Speakers at the 2015 Beauty Business Boot Camp, which will take place in Mauritius in July, include Jeff Butterworth, chief spa and wellness officer for the Lux Resorts Group, and Joanne Berry, director of spa and wellness at Bellus Academy and Founder of Spa Remedies Consulting. The other two speakers are drawn from The Spa Consultants – national sales manager Michelle Arde and MD Marisa Dimitriadis. Prices for the boot camp will be in the region of R22 000, including flights, transfers, accommodation, meals, drinks and three days of life-changing business conference sessions. Email anna@thespaconsultants.co.za for more information and booking forms.
Periche Professional: “It was the first time for us in India and it has definitely been a great experience. We learnt a lot about the culture and way of business here and we are excited about expanding our business in India.”
News in pictures
A&I Importers held the fifth edition in its Beauty of Business Conference series for stockists at Greenwood Manor in Linden, Johannesburg, on 6 October. Pictured are speakers Morné Beckmann (Moonstone Direct), Ayesha Rajah (A&I Importers), Samantha Lockhart (Lockhart Innovations) and Vaughan Owgan (Salon Management Studios).
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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industry news
10
Chrissanthie goes global
E
xclusive distributor of the South Africa-developed Chrissanthie Eye Lid Cleanser, The Lash Collection, has appointed a sole distributor for the product for Australia and New Zealand. There are already Chrissanthie stockists in Texas, Canada and the UK, as well as in Ireland and Denmark. Positioned as the ideal aftercare solution for eyelash extension wearers, Chrissanthie was created by ophthalmic surgeon Dr Chrissie Cockinos and pharmacist Christine
Nail-a-Thon charity event
Deist. This cleansing solution specifically prevents and treats blepharitis, an infection of the eyelids and eyelash follicles, which has become common among eyelash extension wearers. Chrissanthie contains tea tree and citrus extracts, which are both antibacterial and natural antiseptics. It cleanses and sanitises the eye area without breaking down adhesives which would result in the loss of eyelash extensions.
New spa manager for Fancourt Elizabeth Baker has been appointed as spa manager at Garden Route leisure resort, Fancourt. Commenting on her plans to refine the Fancourt spa experience, Baker says: “In keeping with global trends, I will be introducing treatments for pregnant ladies and also treatments exclusively for men, to meet the growing demand.”
Young Nails SA is partnering with The Acorn Foundation to hold a Nail-A-Thon on 28 November to support the global call to end gender violence. This charity event will mark the 16 Days of Activism against Gender Violence campaign that runs from 25 November to 10 December. On 28 November, nail technicians will donate a portion of their takings to the Acorn Foundation, which will utilise a large portion of the proceeds to change the lives of women and young girls and donate much-needed funds to 32 beneficiaries. Spearheading the campaign are Rudy Joles and Sue Smit from the Acorn Foundation and Yolande Bekker from Young Nails South Africa. They encourage all nail bars, suppliers and salons to join them in this drive.
International Babor Partner Conference
Babor distributing partners from all over the world met for the annual International Partner Conference in Barcelona, which ran from 30 September to 4 October. The team from Babor’s head-
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
quarters in Aachen, Germany, discussed news and trends, such as the internationally diverse approach to skincare devices, new product launches and the growing importance of online business.
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business tips
12
Choosing the right management software Anyone intent on driving their business forward successfully into the future will realise the need for software information systems in order to achieve this aim, writes Chris Parker.
W
hen choosing a software management system for your business you need to realise that your industry is very different from other industries, so make sure your system is industry-specific. Regarding the wellness industry, which includes beauty salons, nail salons, day spas, hotel spas (among other types of spas) and even crosses over into the hair industry and medical aesthetics, there are business requirements and processes that are common to all. These include: detailed client record-keeping, appointment-scheduling, sale of retail and services, gift vouchers, loyalty schemes, commission calculations, stock control for both retail and professional stock, and communication with clients via email and SMS.
Information flow The flow of information in a salon or spa environment will typically go something
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
like this: a client calls in to make an appointment; if they are not already on the system a new client record will be created. Thereafter the appointment will be created for the relevant service and staff member. Once the client comes in and has completed their service they will proceed to ‘checkout’, and possibly add a retail item to the sale. When the sale is completed the information will appear on the dayend cash up so that you can account for all transactions that took place and ensure that all corresponding money is in the till. Stock levels will have been adjusted throughout the day as stock was sold. At the end of the period you will use all of the daily transactions to calculate staff service and retail commission, as well as to generate reports to see how well you have performed. You will also send out communications to your clients to remind them of appointments and inform them of news as well as promotions.
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business tips
13
When the client returns for their next visit, the cycle begins all over again, but now you have a history of the client and are able to provide them with a more personalised level of service as a result of tracking information from all their previous visits.
Differences within environments Hotel spas vs day spas: a big difference between the two is the nature of the clients. In a hotel spa you may find yourself primarily servicing hotel guests, while at a day spa your clients will primarily be local residents, who will visit regularly throughout the year. A system requirement for the hotel spa industry is an interface between the spa software and the hotel software. In this way the hotel can offer its guests a seamless experience and the guest can charge their spa treatment to their room. If there is no interface, then either after each sale, or at various times throughout the day, the spa receptionist will need to take all the signed room charge invoices to the hotel reception, so that they can be added to the guest’s hotel bill. Should the guest have already checked out by the time the spa receptionist arrives at reception R
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
business tips
14 with the guest’s bill, then it is obviously much more difficult to obtain payment for the spa treatment. A real-time posting to the hotel system will mean that this will never happen. On top of all of this the spa will need to be able to reconcile accounts with the hotel for all the guest room charges from the spa so that they can get their money from the hotel.
Beauty salons vs spas A difference worth highlighting between beauty salons and day/hotel spas is the need to monitor which rooms are being booked off. You may find some of the bigger beauty salons booking off treatment rooms as well as staff, but generally it is spas that do it due to the size difference. This means that when you book an appointment you not only need to determine which qualified staff member is going to do the treatment, but also if there is a room available. As the size of the salon or spa gets bigger, so the need for this functionality increases.
Beauty salons/spas vs hair salons Functionality common to beauty salons and spas that is not as common in a hair salon includes packages, courses and stock recipes. Packages are made up of multiple treatments and/or products, which are bundled together at a discounted rate. Some of the difficulties that arise in managing a package include how to set up a package with one price if it is made up of multiple different types of items. Each needs to be tracked individually and the relevant staff members earn commission on each of the items. Courses, unlike packages, are made up of the same item but multiple instances of it, which are redeemed over a period of time. For example, a client may purchase a course of 10 massages, slimming or sunbed sessions. When the client pays for these, the sessions that make up the course need to be linked to the client’s record and counted down each time they redeem one of the sessions. In addition, staff members need to earn commission on redemption of each of the individual sessions.
Stock recipes Stock recipes are the professional stock items that are deducted every time a treatment is done. For example, a facial will require the use of various quantities of cleanser, toner, moisturiser and other consumables. The stock levels for each of the recipe items must be reduced (in millilitres) every time the respective treatment is performed. In turn, the cost per millilitre must be worked out for the recipe so that you can determine the gross profit of a particular treatment. In a hair salon the use of professional stock is
Software design Make sure your software is easy to use. Easy systems ensure correct usage and thus a higher quality output.
If the system is not flexible and comprehensive, it will require that you supplement your processes either with other pieces of software or manual systems, which defeat the objective entirely. A good system will allow you to work in more ways than one, as many salons have different management styles and will require very little importing and exporting between other systems and the duplicating of processes. Choose a system that is scalable and that can grow as your business grows. A system that caters for small and large salons and spas, as well as groups, is ideal. Also, choose a system that meets your budget, where the benefits outweigh the cost. A modular system allows for this as it means you only purchase the functionality you required.
different. For example, if a client comes in to get their hair coloured, the stylist will use a tailor-made recipe for the client, which may differ the next time the client returns if they desire something different. Therefore stock control per millilitre in a hair salon is best controlled as it is dispensed to stylists. PB
Chris Parker is the managing director of ESP Salon and Spa Software. Email him on Chris@esponline.co.za
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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business tips
17
Know your business – know your data Your data is the most objective source of advice that you will ever receive and it holds no bias, writes Debbie Merdjan.
I
t’s an odd thing when your business does really well and then, suddenly, it doesn’t. And it can be the other way round, you could be having a dry spell and then, out of the blue – manicures, facials, waxes – it gets really busy. What is going on? you wonder. Well, the reasons are right there. You have all the facts and figures – all the data – right under your nose. You’re just not using the information correctly. Think of all those pieces of paper you have scattered around the office or gathering dust in filing cabinets. They are all filled with information. They are your information and the blueprint to running a successful business. Dust those papers off. Sort them out. Look at them. And use them. They offer the very statistics that are so important to a business, helping you to make the informed and accurate decisions that you need. Data can tell you how many clients are visiting your spa or salon. It can pinpoint the peak times and reveal how much money clients are spending. It can tell you if you are charging too much for some products and undercharging for others. It can tell you when, why and what your customers want. Data tells you a story, one that can, and should, make a major impact on how you run your company. Every fact, figure and statistic that a business produces is important, and can be
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used to boost sales, improve profit margins and increase customer loyalty. The results can help you create strategies to improve performance levels, and be more innovative and competitive in the industry and market.
Your data is golden If you are feeling anxious about going through all those slips of paper, don’t. I highly recommend the use of a reputable software programme that will capture all the information needed, with ease and efficiency. The minute you get that sales slip, receipt or feedback form, feed it in to the computer.
Like magic We have found that having accurate statistics at our fingertips is essential to operating, allowing us to understand our customer mix and their buying habits. Our system is a quick and userfriendly one, and an inclusive one. We are able to work with our staff, helping us oversee the productivity of each
therapist, to offer help where needed, and to reward where necessary. Mostly we reward. Data is there to tell you something. To work out what data reports your spa or salon requires you need to define the key performance indicators essential for your business. If it is about sales then create simple bar and line graphs that are easy to read, and, most importantly, available for all staff to read. Together you can evaluate what is working and how to reach goals and targets more easily. Use your data. It’s important! PB
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
business tips
18
5 Steps to the EU market Following on from the September issue, where Tadej Feregotto discussed changes to the EU (European Union) cosmetics regulations, here he looks at what South African cosmetics manufacturers need to do to be able to sell their products in the EU. The process can be split into five steps:
CPNP notification
Classify your products Firstly, manufacturers need to determine if their products are even considered to be cosmetics in the EU. This may not be as simple as it seems, especially for the so-called borderline products. Some products are classified as cosmetics in the EU, but aren’t elsewhere and vice versa. Classification often also depends on the product’s claims. EU regulations provide the following definition of a cosmetic product: ‘cosmetic product means any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours’.
Assign a Responsible Person Each product placed on the EU market needs to have a Responsible Person assigned. The Responsible Person has to be based in the EU, and their primary task is to ensure that the products placed on the market are compliant with the EU cosmetic regulations.
The final pre-market requirement is to notify your products to the CPNP (Cosmetics Products Notification Portal). The CPNP is an EU-wide online portal, where the Responsible Person uploads certain information about the product, such as the product name, its formula, product category, label, photo of the packaging etc. It is worth noting that products that contain nanomaterials (with some exceptions) have to be notified to the CPNP six months prior to being placed on the EU market.
Place your products on the market Compile the PIF (product information file) Before you can place a cosmetic product on the EU market, you also have to compile a product information file for it. The content of the product information file is described in article 11 and annex I of the regulations. In general the product information file consists of the qualitative and quantitative composition of the product, various raw materials, finished product and packaging specifications and tests, as well as the safety assessment, labelling, statement on good manufacturing practice compliance and certain other documents.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
When all of the above steps are finished, you can place your cosmetic products on the EU market. Please note, however, that cosmetic products must always remain compliant with the regulations, and that any changes made to the product must also be reflected in the product information file. PB
Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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ask the expert
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Getting the word out Professional Beauty asked Bonny Richardson, businesswoman and owner of the Camelot Spa San Lameer in Southbroom, KwaZulu-Natal, to divulge her marketing tips. What is the golden rule of marketing? I can answer this by talking about three essentials: 1. Understand the product or service that you offer and how it can be manipulated to suit your clients. For instance, we use gel for feather-light legs on our client’s backs. 2. Understand your target market. If you are based in the centre of town, your clients are likely to want something different to people at a holiday resort. 3. Make sure you have a unique and relevant single-minded message and stick to that consistently.
Do spas/salons place enough importance on wordof-mouth referrals as a marketing tool? If you do exceptional treatments your clients will recommend you to their friends and they will return. There are only three ways to increase your business: get more clients; increase the value that each client spends; and get clients to buy more often or regularly.
Placing adverts in traditional media is very costly – is it worth it for spas/salons, and how do they identify the right media? The right media is dependent on where you are and who you are trying to pull into the spa. If you take the example of where Camelot Spa San Lameer is situated, we are on a holiday resort and don’t get any passing trade, so we advertise in all the holiday guides and the local paper to attract local clients. If you are situated in Sandton City it may not be necessary to use conventional advertising.
Is using SMS messaging as a marketing tool a good idea, or does it just irritate clients? I do not believe in spamming clients. Send them an SMS about something they want to know – perhaps a reminder of their appointment or the latest specials. But don’t do it too often as they will just delete them.
Do you think printed salon/spa newsletters still have a place in the marketing sphere? I do believe we live in the electronic age and almost everyone who would be a client will have access to the internet. People do most of their searching for suitable services and products on the internet, so a good interactive website is essential and emails with specials are an inexpensive and effective way to communicate. Once again, don’t spam your clients, as they will just delete everything you send them if it’s not relevant to them.
How can social media marketing be done to the best effect? We use our Facebook page to distribute news and information on developments at the spa, or maybe celebrities that have visited and treatment advice. The same can be done on Twitter, but my experience is that most people put personal stuff on Facebook and Twitter, which is inappropriate for business promotion. So be careful what information you spread as it may come back and bite you. PB
Bonny Richardson was an Achieve finalist in the Business Woman of the Year 2000 Awards. She has successfully launched a number of businesses and products of her own, as well as building her own brand, Bonny’s Best Buys. Since opening Camelot Spa San Lameer in 2011, her business has won four awards for excellence.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
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spa focus
22
When the going gets tough…
Gary Player Health Spa and the Royal Salon
Pic: Gatsbyspa.co.za
The South African spa industry is estimated to generate R1.2 billion in revenue this year – a remarkable growth from R380 million in 2008. But how did the industry get to this point? Joanna Sterkowicz looks back to the early days of the industry in South Africa, when the word ‘spa’ was an unfamiliar term.
T Gary Player Country Club
Gary Player Health Spa he above statistics are quoted from the preliminary benchmark report compiled by the South African Spa Association. It estimates the current number of spas in South Africa at 800. This report also reveals that 2 281 688 guests visited South African spas this year, compared to 972 000 in 2008. It’s important to note that this significant growth has taken place during a time of recession, which proves that when the going gets tough…the tough go to spas. Research the history of spas in South Africa and you’ll find that it’s a fairly recent industry. According to Debbie Merdjan, CEO of the Camelot Spa Group, one of the first commercial spas in South Africa was opened by Audrey Young of Impala Services. Says Merdjan: “In 1987 I was
employed by Audrey beauty therapist trained Young of Impala Services in aromatherapy and who had established reflexology, had lived in her spa in Randburg, Minneapolis, America, for Johannesburg. It had a some years. hydro bath imported from Says Zander-Thal: “The Europe and was specifically word ‘spa’ was not around aimed at the female in America in the early market. Unfortunately 1990s but I was asked to Audrey’s spa did not get create something akin off the ground as it was to a wellness centre in Avril Zander-Thal too early for its time – the Minneapolis and also spa concept had not yet consulted to a health been embraced in South Africa.” centre that wanted to develop a beauty therapy side. Pioneer “The Hyatt Hotel chain in America Avril Zander-Thal is regarded as a then started to put spas into their pioneer of the local spa industry and hotels so I went to have a look at opened South Africa’s first successful some of them. When I returned to spa in South Africa, at the Fancourt South Africa in 1994, I approached Sun Hotel & Country Club in George, in International about building spas in 1995. their hotels but they didn’t know what Prior to this, Zander-Thal, a I was talking about.”
& The Royal Salon
Palace of the Lost City
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
23 Mount Grace Country Spa
Spa consultant Mimmie Lancaster of Symmetry World notes that only health hydros existed in South Africa at that time. “There were three health hydros – in Stellenbosch, Brookdale and Hoogland. A hydro is different to a spa in that you need in-house medical personnel and guests have to stay overnight at least and follow a set programme of treatments and meals. Health hydros create treatment menus according to specific health/medical concerns,” explains Lancaster. When Zander-Thal heard that Sabine Plattner, a German living in South Africa, had opened the Fancourt Hotel, she approached her about opening a spa. Plattner agreed.
Hydro facilities The first thing that Zander-Thal concentrated on when building the Fancourt spa was creating the hydro facilities. “To qualify as a spa you need at least two hydro facilities,” she says. “I approached a company and asked them to build saunas, hydrotherapy baths and Vichy showers as those types of facilities didn’t exist in South Africa then. In addition, I also had to train the spa staff – they were all qualified beauty therapists but with no knowledge of hydrotherpahy. “Once the Fancourt spa was up and running in 1995, the Sun International executives took notice and Peter Bacon came to visit. He was impressed by our spa and felt that this was something that could take off. Peter then asked me to consult on the Sun International group’s first ever spa – at the Table Bay Hotel. They then asked me to R
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
spa focus
Growing concept Following Zander-Thal’s work with Sun International, she did the spa at Caesar’s Palace, then owned by Global Resorts, as well as other spas, including Fordoun. “By this stage hotels started actively advertising their spas and got the word ‘spa’ into people’s consciousness. Before this the public thought that ‘spa’ was the local grocery store. Spa basically means salus per aquam (healing through water). It was through Sun International that this whole idea and concept expanded in
Wellness is a fast growing trend – the spa industry in South Africa has grown significantly on all levels over the last six years.
South Africa,” she says. No day spas were in existence during these early days of the industry and all spa names were related to the hotel at which they were situated, as in ‘The Spa at Table Bay’, for example. According to Lancaster, one of the first ever country retreat spas in South Africa was Mount Grace in Magaliesberg. “This spa took hydro facilities to the next level – they set a whole new benchmark and created an actual hydrotherapy journey for guests.” The day spa concept, which took its lead from hotel spas, began to emerge in the new millennium. Lancaster elaborates: “Spas were now not only hotel add-ons like they used to be and the industry grew from
Fancourt Spa
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
Royal Swazi Spa
being a perceived luxury pastime that only the idle rich occasionally indulged in to a really lucrative sector. Out of the day spas came unique concepts spas, such as Mommy Wellness, which targets pregnant and post pregnant women, and Lééf Spa, which attracts a Christian clientele. “It’s been wonderful to watch the industry grow from one or two hotel spas to what it is today.”
Wellness trend Merdjan emphasises that wellness is a fast growing trend and that the spa industry in South Africa has grown significantly on all levels over the last six years. “The number of spas in the market has increased by 115%, while total spa industry revenue has increased by 221%. And, the number of total spa industry visits has increased by 135%. “Marketing is vitally important to educate our greater population on health and wellness. To date the spa industry has predominantly catered to the tourist and upper income group market. Now, we need to get the word out to middle-income groups about the benefits of going to spas,” concludes Merdjan. PB Pic: www.fancourt.co.za
work on the Royal Swazi Spa, the Zimbali Spa and the Gary Player Resort at Sun City.” All of these spas had to be built from the ground level up. Zander-Thal designed the interiors and worked with the Sun International interior designers and architects as they didn’t understand the spa workflow. Merdjan notes that Camelot was called in by Sun International to conduct training at the Sun City Spa. She continues: “It soon became evident that the spa was in need of operational and management training, as opposed to beauty therapy training, and shortly thereafter Camelot Spa Group was born. I opened my first Camelot spa in 1997.”
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Pic: www.wetu.com
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011 312 7840 • www.sixskincare.com • info@sixskincare.com
spa focus
26
An unusual aesthetic
Spa at a glance
Currently planning its expansion into the adjacent shop on Level 5 at Johannesburg’s Rivonia Square, Spaesthetique has, since inception, been positioned as ‘the perfect fusion of spa and beauty’, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
A
quick glance at the Spaesthetique treatment menu reveals a wide range of treatments – from hair to nails, to beauty, to massages, to hydro treatments, to what is termed ‘aesthetic curve management’. Take a closer look at the menu and it soon becomes clear that many of the treatments are based on traditional Chinese therapy, such as the Gua Sha Back Massage, the Suction Roller Therapy, and the Detoxifying and Revitalizing Bath, to name a few. Says owner Irene Chao: “We
Opened: May 2012 Owner: Irene Chao Size: 140 square metres Treatment rooms: 5 Hydro facilities: Heated waterbed, jet bath Full-time therapists: 3 Brands: RégimA, Mucota, Bio Sculpture Gel, Schwarzkopf
saw a distinct gap in the market to open a spa that would offer Chinese treatments. In fact, most of our clients are Chinese and Taiwanese; they enjoy having the same treatments here that they are used to back home. Our treatments are very healing and beneficial to one’s body and the western cultures are now also adapting to this style of treatment. “It’s certainly unusual for a South African spa to offer traditional Chinese treatments and this is the one thing that makes us different from other spas. Another point of difference is that Spaesthetique has an unusual payment method – clients pay a membership up front and then
receive 15% off all treatments, barring wash & blow and cuts.” She notes that her expansion plans will see the Spaesthetique hairdresser move into the adjacent shop area, while the nail element will comprise the entire front section of the spa. Once the expansion is completed the premises will total 200 square metres. Regarding décor, the spa’s furniture is imported from China and was specially chosen for its chic and modern look. All furniture is exclusive to Spaesthetique. In this day and age when most of
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
spa focus
27 the therapists you see in spas are very young, each of Spaesthetique’s therapists, all sourced from Taiwan, can boast more than 20 years of experience. Chao, who herself is Taiwanese, notes that Spaesthetique is equipped with the latest technology. A case in point is the Nano machine for hair, which stimulates blood circulation of the scalp.
Unique treatments In the spa’s Sea Therapy Massage Room, clients can feel relaxed and pampered on a heated waterbed. Chao continues: “The heated waterbed works on the concept of being in your mother’s womb. It’s very relaxing, what with the sound of the water and the therapist’s hands
rhythmically melting away any tension. Once you are on the bed we give you a 90-minute massage followed by a 30-minute session, where you breathe in pure oxygen. This leaves you revitalised, relaxed and energised. “Our Bella Europa Hair Spa treatment includes a massage, as there are 384 pressure points in one’s head, and it helps the clients to relax.”
Brand choices Spaesthetique offers RégimA’s full facial and body rejuvenation range.
Chao explains: “RégimA is suitable for all skin types, ages and ethnicities. This internationally a v a i l a b l e range includes specialised treatments for pigmentation, wrinkles, acne, acne scarring, scars and burns, as well as treatments for post-peel, laser skin resurfacing and laser hair removal.” For nails there is Bio Sculpture Gel, which Chao describes as a healthy nail system that protects and strengthens natural nails, while allowing them to grow without breaking. On the hair front, clients can choose from Mucota and Schwarzkopf. According to Chao, the most popular treatments are RégimA peels, RégimA facials and body slimming treatments. PB
hair removal
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The quest for A staple on the salon treatment menu, hair removal is a fail-safe revenue generator due to women’s on-going desire to have hair-free bodies, a trend increasingly mirrored by men. To meet this consistent demand, there is a wide range of professional hair removal products to choose from, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
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edinger Laboratories’ ultra-pliable depilatory waxes leave no skin redness post-treatment because of the added titanium dioxide, low operating temperature, and their hypo-allergenic, pine-rosin free formulation. “Our White Cream Hot Wax won’t ever become brittle on the skin, and can be applied in a thinner layer than traditional hot wax. It is perfect for clients with sensitive skins, and ideal for waxing intimate areas, as well as facial waxing, as it removes extremely fine and coarse hair growth alike, without lifting the skin. “The unique pliability of this hot wax formulation makes waxing easy and worry-free. It is suitable for both male and female clients,” says Redinger Laboratories’ chief operating officer Jonathan Shaw. A non-sticky and ‘residue-free’ strip wax allows for fast and effective strip-waxing. Redinger Laboratories’ Paraffin Wax Cubes quickly and easily topup the salon’s paraffin wax heater. The cubes are highly refined, triplefiltered, soft and pliable, and operate with a low operating temperature of 45 degrees Celsius to ensure client comfort.
the effect of the pull on the skin. It leaves the skin hydrated, velvety and bright and facilitates the closing of the pores. This wax is perfect for all skin types, especially for the most sensitive skins, which require special care. Pre depil Lotion Balm from Beauty Image is formulated with innovative active ingredients which prepare the skin before waxing. Its content of butyleneglycol, keratoine and bacocalmine (an active from the
ayurvedic medicine) gets the skin ready for waxing and reduces the skin sensibility. Applied before waxing, it reduces effects such as redness and skin congestion. New from Beauty Image is Post depil Retard Lotion, especially formulated to repair the skin after waxing. With its powerful active ingredients – bacocalmine and capislow (hair growth moderator) – the skin remains protected, repaired and fresh. The lotion also works to slow down the rate of hair re-growth. Finewax Glamour combines the attributes of the classic Finewax range (low melting point, application in very thin layers, no strips formula) with the benefits of Beauty Image’s Glamour range. This wax needs no paper strips. Active ingredients include argan oil and it is also very rich in Vitamin E. Nacré pigment gives luminosity to the skin and has a calming effect. Wax Smoothies incorporate
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Ayurveda component Beauty Image Depilsense Ayurveda Depilatory Wax is enriched with ayursense and zinc oxide, providing effective hair removal that minimises
hair removal
bald skin
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the most attractive and tempting designs and the fragrances of the Beauty Image line. The two new soluble waxes are Coconut and Strawberry. They are oil-enriched and lightly scented with titanium dioxide. Although these waxes are designed for all skin types and for any zone of the body, they are also perfect for sensitive skin areas.
The preferred choice for many beauty therapists, beauty colleges and spas, Salon Specifics from LeeChem Laboratories offers one of the most extensive ranges of depilatories and accessories available. Only the finest ingredients are used in the products and every product is subjected to the highest-quality standard-testing procedures. Extensive research is carried out on an ongoing basis to keep abreast of international trends. Salon Specifics Strip Wax is available in Lemongrass (suitable for larger areas), Azulene (ideal for sensitive skins and firsttime waxers; suitable for small and large areas), Classic Honey (suitable for all skin types and larger R
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Beauty Image
Extensive range
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
hair removal
30 effective and as painless as possible, the temperature of the wax needs to be low, so that it can be used on even the most sensitive of areas without causing redness and irritation. The wax should not cause any skin drag when being removed, as this is where most of the pain is felt by the client.” Germshuys notes that with a good quality wax like Lycon, the wax grips the hair and removes it right at the root. “Cheap, low-quality wax products tend to cause the hair to break, which can cause other problems like ingrown hairs,” she continues. “Lycon leaves no sticky residue on the skin so the skin feels smooth, moisturised and protected post-treatment. “It is vital to use a nonalcohol-based skin cleaner before starting any waxing treatment, to remove environmental dirt, perspiration, make-up or moisturisers. With our hot wax, a pre-waxing oil is used before the treatment to protect the skin from any skin drag, making the treatment virtually painless. Post oils, gels or creams are used after the waxing treatment and should contain the highest-quality aromatherapy oils, calming and healing ingredients to soothe and protect the skin.”
“As there are so many methods of hair removal, it can be quite overwhelming for a client to decide which method to go with and which product is better.”
areas), Tea Tree Crème (ideal for sensitive skins and for small and large areas) and Passionate Pomegranate (ideal for dry skins and for all areas). The Salon Specifics Hot Wax range includes Antique wax, which is suited to sensitive skins and is ideal for facial, underarm and bikini waxing. Included in the Hot Wax range are Pearlescent Lavender, Azulene, Classic Honey and Tea Tree Crème. There are also paraffin wax and hot-film wax products to choose from, as well as pre-wax lotions and serums and post-wax oils and creams.
after the treatment. Ro.ial also offers a 100m wax roll, as well as pre-cut waxing strips.
From Italy
Important factors
Ro.ial Depilatory Wax, distributed by Marica Salon Specialists, is an Italian brand that provides a very pleasant waxing experience for regular waxing clients as well as first-timers. With its natural ingredients, the wax hydrates the skin and leaves it feeling soft and smooth, with minimal redness. Neither the hot or cold waxes leave sticky residue on the client’s skin, and it is easy to remove. Ro.ial is available in hot and cold wax options as well as wax cartridges, which are available in Natural, Azulene, Frutti, Rose and Black. The Black cartridge is an exciting and unique flavour, specially designed for first-time waxing treatments and for coarse hair and men. The Ro.ial brand includes an afterwax chamomile oil and an afterwax aloe vera lotion to help soothe the skin
“As there are so many methods of hair removal, it can be quite overwhelming for a client to decide which method to go with and which product is better,” says Lycon regional manager Lynda Germshuys. “Waxing has an advantage because of the lack of skin drag or hair breakage. But the product that is used is critical to this. Due to its highest quality ingredients, Lycon wax is one of the best. “To make the waxing treatment
Lycon regional manager Lynda Germshuys
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
Precious mineral Cirépil Cristalline, from SA Beauty Distributors, is a non-strip wax formula that is ideal for any client with hyper-sensitive skin. Created without traditional rosin, its hypoallergenic, fragrance-free formula is derived from the precious mineral micro-crystal crystalline. The formula’s fluid gel texture is applied economically in an even layer and has a very low melting point. Removal of the wax is gentle and clean and it is best suited for sensitive, normal and oily skin types. Cirépil Intimate 4 non-strip wax is a gentle, effective and intimate wax that is specially designed for people with a low pain threshold. The active ingredients contained R
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Easy-to-use paraffin wax, highly refined and triple filtered. Low operating temperature of 45 degrees Celsius. Packaged in a zip-seal bag. Variants: lavender, citrus, zero (facial paraffin wax), peach, coconut, rose, tea-tree, chocolate. FDA approved raw materials. R 130 (all variants) - 1 kg R 133 (tea-tree) - 1 kg
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100 ml universal cartridge. Large roller head, with plastic over-cap. Low operating temperature of 48 degrees Celsius. Leaves no sticky residue on the skin! No skin redness after a wax. Suitable for male and female clients. FDA approved raw materials. Fragrance free (and completely odourless) R 168 - 6 pack Also available in an 800g tin - R 220
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within the wax have the following beneficial properties: dermaprotecting, anti-bacterial, antiirritant and soothing. It also contains coconut oil that moisturises and leaves the skin silky-soft. This wax is suitable for both male and female clients. Due to its natural plant extracts, Refreshing Gel is an ideal afterwax product that produces a cool and refreshing effect on the skin. This lotion is highly recommended, as it has moisturising, anti-septic properties that soothe the skin after the waxing experience.
Fast and Furious Waxing Specialists
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to the professional beauty industry,” says Brisan’s Sandra Hunter. “It is a highly cost-effective and 100% safe hair removal process. After each professional treatment, the skin is left well exfoliated, soft, smooth, healthy and hygienically clean, with no burning, blistering, breakouts, tearing, bruising or stickiness. Treatments must only be performed by authorised and qualified sugaring practitioners. “It is important to note that bodysugaring is a unique hair removal process and its product is totally different to that of any wax type, therefore it cannot be classified as similar to the waxing hair removal process.” Hunter notes that the sugar paste is scientifically formulated from 100% natural, chemicalfree and environmentally friendly ingredients. Hypoallergenic and
non-comedogenic, the sugar paste contains no animal ingredients and is not tested on animals. The very high sugar content of the paste acts as a natural preservative and will not allow any bacteria to grow. It will also provide an indefinite shelf life. This paste is also 100% water-soluble, therefore it cannot stain or tarnish clothing, towels, or equipment. All skin and hair types may be sugared, even fine, thin vellus hair, stubborn and ingrown hair. Clients with sensitive skin and sufferers from diabetes and eczema may safely be sugared. All body areas may safely and hygienically be sugared, no matter where. The complete range includes Sugar Paste, Sugar Paste Warmer, Anti-Microbial Skin Cleanser, Calming Lotion, Drying Powder, Hydrating Lotion Soft Gauze and gloves. PB
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Personal touch At Fast and Furious Waxing Specialists, the hot wax formulation is mixed to perfection by company owner Adele Mans. “The wax is of the highest quality in the industry and contains fastdrying ingredients as well as soothing ingredients to obtain the perfect wax consistency,” explains Mans. “My formulation does not cling to the skin and it lifts off the skin surface on drying, due to an oil formulation that is sprayed on the skin beforehand. When the wax is removed, no skin can be pulled in the process. There is no flicking or picking of the wax as it is removed by sticking another piece of wax on the piece to be removed in one clean, almost-pain free, super-fast pulling technique. The wax melts over a very low temperature and there is no danger of burning or sensitising the skin by over-heating it.” Hot wax is used for sensitive treatments like Brazilians for males and females, eyebrows and underarms. The wax can remove extremely short hair, so waxing can be done as often as possible. Some clients prefer to wax underarms in summer every two weeks to stay hair-free.
Sugaring Brisan Distributors
Brisan Distributors is the only bodysugaring distributor/company for whole of Africa. “We were also the first and only company to supply body-sugaring
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business tips
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The show that rocked!
Bigger and better than ever before, the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo, which took place on 31 August and 1 September at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand, had 18 682 visitors.
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ome 276 exhibitors showcased their wares at Professional Beauty Johannesburg, which incorporated Professional Hair. Feedback from exhibitors points to a very successful expo. “There was a brilliant vibe at this year’s show,” commented Alison Yammin of Marine Spa Distributors. “It was very exciting, with a lot more visitors than previous years. Our Bodyography stand in the Retail Area was incredibly busy.” RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt reported that her stand was extremely busy: “There were a lot of us from the company on the stand and there were moments when all of us were busy with visitors. We not only had existing clients, but new ones as well.” Danielle Bexiga of Dermalogica noted that exhibitors appeared to have made a big effort with their stands this year. “I think this show “You are showcasing your brand at shows like this, so you need to up your game. As far as Dermalogica is concerned, was the best ever. At we sold out in our Age Smart category at the show and the end of the first day there was lots of interest in our new BioSurface Peel.” we had sold more than Exclusive Beauty Solutions’ Dalize Havenga commended Professional Beauty for pulling in the big on both days at last companies in the industry. “Some of the brands that had year’s show.” not exhibited at the last few shows were back this year. The show was an excellent launch pad for our new Anesi Elmien Scholtz Skin View handheld skin analysis device, while the retail – Bio Sculpture Gel sales on our CND stand were fantastic.”
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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professional beauty jhb 2014
35 the global leader in eyelash extensions
“Business was up by 20% on last year. We are looking forward to Professional Beauty Durban and Cape Town in 2015.” Fergus McKinnon – Calgel
Elemis’ Emilie O’Neill commented: “I think that the people who visited our stand were genuinely good leads.”
‘Phenomenal platform’ Poise Brands’ Janine Janse van Rensburg described the show as a phenomenal platform to showcase what her company is about to the target audience. “I think that it’s so important that we connect with our market on a professional level. The quality of leads we got at the show was really great.” According to Susanne Myburgh of Environ, the show served as the soft launch of the company’s new Revival Mask. “We describe it as Dr Des Fernandez’ ‘Face lift in a bottle’ and it generated a lot of interest.”
Cross-border visitors Ayesha Rajah from A&I Importers said that the Sunday was the busiest day the company has ever had at the show. “We’ve noticed that this year there were lots of cross-border visitors, from Zimbabwe and Botswana.” This trend was mirrored at the Lilian Terry International stand. Said Derek Terry: “We had lots more international visitors visit the stand, people from Mozambique, Dubai and Lesotho. There was also definitely a move towards a demand for local products and local manufacturers.” R
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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professional beauty jhb 2014
36 Speaking on behalf of the American companies who exhibited positive – delegates under the banner of the Illinois enjoyed the varied Pavilion, Sam Ntum topics, but did put said: “The show met in a few requests “Danné our expectations and to make some of Montague-King the configuration of our the slots a little bit stands, giving almost all longer.” managed to educate our exhibitors end-cap According us on the treatment stands, was excellent.” to the delegate of ethnic skin, while TheraVine’s Juanita feedback forms, Scholtz reported that the most popular still being extremely many visitors came to speakers were Dr charismatic and Dr Martin Kapfumvuti Dr Marshall Murdoch her stand to look for Marshall Murdoch, humorous.” new brands for their Sonette Donker, was an eye-opener. Bill Karen Ellithorne salons or spas. “We had quite a few Danné MontaguePrice presented a model leads to follow up.” King and Worjciech of how to change your Swistak. business by implementing a stepNew clients “Dr Murdoch gave an by-step action plan to ensure the Caribbean Tan’s Jacoline Wentzel outstanding educational presentation changes happen. commented: “We had a great using a visual tool called Prezi,” “Day Two of the convention response to the latest products and continued Ellithorne. “Sonette looked at the beauty education accessories within our range and Donker was very well received for system over the last 15 years and were pleasantly surprised about the her confident and educational style where it is going. The conclusion amount of new clients we signed up of lecturing, and Danné Montaguedrawn was that there is still a debate at the show.” King managed to educate us on the over salaries, and we resolved to hold Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers treatment of ethnic skin, while still a standalone network meeting on found the quality of visitors being extremely charismatic and this issue at a future date.” interesting. “People were much more humorous. Well over 40 delegates – a mix knowledgeable about the machines, “Worjciech Swistak, a manager of medical doctors and therapists so they came to the stand with of a successful aesthetic practice – attended the three-day Medical knowledge in hand.” in Honeydew, gave a brilliant and Aesthetics Convention. Commented Jacques Pretorius of witty lecture on the challenges of Said convenor Karen Ellithorne: “It Radiant Healthcare: “The show was managing your staff in order to was gratifying to see that many of the very good for us, with lots of interest ensure that your patient has the best delegates were return visitors to the in our ranges. It was great.” experience,” said Ellithorne. convention. Feedback was extremely Best Lasers’ Andrew Best She notes that the medical confirmed that he got a lot of very aesthetic exhibition that ran good-quality leads from the show. alongside the event on 30 August was enthusiastically received by both Conventions delegates and exhibitors, as it gave Professional Beauty Johannesburg them a chance to network during incorporated two popular events – lunch and tea breaks. PB the International Spa Convention and The Medical Aesthetics Convention, both held at the Gallagher Convention Centre. Says International Spa Convention Peter Anthony director Marisa Dimitriadis: “Some Steve Mululu 103 delegates attended this year’s convention over the two days. Feedback indicates that not only did delegates enjoy the conference, but they plan to return in 2015. “Popular speakers were psychologist Peter Anthony, who made everyone think about the purpose and meaning of life and business, while Steve Mululu’s nutrition talk
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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www.spalicious.co.za 011 312 7840
professional beauty jhb 2014
38
Creativity at the fore The Nail & Make-up Competitions, which took place as part of the recent Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo at Gallagher Estate, spawned some amazingly creative work.
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ccording to Nail & Makeup Competitions director Sonette van Rensburg, important new elements were introduced into this year’s Nail Competition. “We introduced the Gel Creations category into the Nail Art section, as this part of the competition is growing. The calibre of nail art work was phenomenal this year. “For the first time, Sparkle Cosmetics and its family of brands was the overall competition sponsor and sponsored many of the categories,” says Van Rensburg.
2014 Nail Comp winners Nail Art Categories Photographic Category (sponsored by Writing on The Wall) Chantelle Smith – Cherry Sparks Nail & Beauty Salon Tip Box Category (sponsored by OPI) Tracey Owgan – Magnetic Nails Gel Creations Category (sponsored by Calgel) Maureen Brill – Salon Art Tease 3D Fantasy Category (sponsored by Reflections by Hand & Nail Harmony) Tracey Owgan – Magnetic Nails Tip Overlay Category Intermediate Liquid & Powder (sponsored by Magnetic Nails) Zhandile Maduna – SOHO Nails, Waxing & Beauty Gel (sponsored by Gelish Hard Gel) Petra Maseko – Synergise Spa Tip Overlay Category Novice (sponsored by Nailworks) Shantelle Smit – Magnetic Nails Custom Colour Category (sponsored by Sparkle Nail Academy & Sparkle Cosmetics) Chantel Smith – Cherry Sparks Nail & Beauty
Overall Make-up Winner Tanya Olivier – Skin PHD Overall Nail Competition winner: Katia Da Silva – NSI Johannesburg & Training Academy Sculpting Category Intermediate level (sponsored by Prohesion by Hand & Nail Harmony from Sparkle Cosmetics) Liquid & Powder and Gel Category Maureen Brill – Salon Art Tease Sculpting Masters Level (sponsored by LCN) Liquid & Powder and Gel Category Katia Da Silva – NSI Johannesburg & Training Academy Main Judges: Sonette van Rensburg (competition director); Katia Da Silva – NSI; Franzelle de Villiers – LCN; Lucia Oosthuizen – Sparkle Cosmetics; Evelyn Janse van Vuuren – Nails 4 U; Jenny Miller – Magnetic Nails; Alida Apelgryn – Camelot Health Group; Oksana van Tonder – Nail Art Academy; Thalia Erodotou – Intl Educator Hand & Nail Harmony; Roxanne Rothman – Camelot Health Group.
Category sponsors:
Gold sponsor:
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
Make-up Competition Glamour Make-up Competition Novice Category (sponsored by D’Orleac) Nabilah Kahn - Sorbet Masters Category (sponsored by D’Orleac) Liz Reyneke – Xplicit make-up studio Fantasy Make-up Novice Category – Game of Thrones (sponsored by Bodyography) First place tie: Nare Mashotja – Hydro Intl & Shae Thomas Masters Category – Game of Thrones (sponsored by Bodyography & Dermalogica) Nicole Pickering Body Painting Masters Category – Story Book (sponsored by Bodyography) Tanya Olivier – Skin PHD Make-up Judging Panel: Sonette van Rensburg (competition director); Debbie Wolfendale – Prana Products Bodyography; Rene Ferreira – Marine Spa Distributors Bodyography; Serina Singh – Educator & Assessor at Camelot Health Group; Liza Victor – Educator & Assessor at Camelot Health Group Make-up sponsors:
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Calgel
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professional beauty awards
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The best of the best Dedicated to acknowledging excellence in the industry, the annual Professional Beauty Awards were established in 2004 to help uplift standards in the sector.
2014 Professional Beauty Award Finalists Day Spa of the Year Camelot Spa at the Regent Hotel, Rosebank Life Day Spa, Cape Town • Urban Glow Day Spa (Winner)
Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year Fordoun Hotel & Spa The Saxon Villas, Hotel & Spa • Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa (Winner) This year’s winners were announced at a glittering gala event held on 31 August at RoomFive in Rivonia, Johannesburg, in the presence of 370 guests. Popular comedian Dusty Rich was MC for the evening. All of the finalists were subjected to a stringent and rigorous judging process that interrogated every aspect of their business.
Salon of the Year – 3 Rooms or Less Mommy Wellness Spa 88 • View Health and Skin Care Clinic (Winner)
Salon of the Year – 4 Rooms or More • Chique Skin Technology (Winner) Indulge Skin & Body Lavana Beauty Spa
Nail Salon of the Year Miss Salon London • SOHO Nails/Waxing/Beauty (Winner) Young Nails, Glen Marais
Aesthetic Clinic of the Year • Body Sculpting Medical Spa (Winner) The Laser Beautique, Morningside The Laser Beautique, Northcliff
Therapist of the Year Faith Gogo, The Saxon Villas, Hotel & Spa Lindiwe Zuma, The Spa at the Oyster Box • Marian Nelson, Origin Day Spa (Winner)
Spa/Salon Manager of the Year
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Jeanne-Marie Eloff, Willa Krause Beauty Salon & Day Spa • Joanne Frances Basson, Sanctuary Spa (Winner) Mandie Goosen, The Laser Beautique, Rosebank Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
professional beauty awards
42 Salon of the Year (3 Rooms or Less) View Health and Skin Care Clinic (Marijke Harteveld) What would you say are the unique selling points of your clinic? Firstly, we specialise in face treatments, with an emphasis on age control, pigmentation control and acne control. Secondly, we are para-medically trained. We use the paramedical product DMK for this purpose and can truly resurface the skin and work on scarring as well. We believe in service excellence and fantastic product knowledge. Furthermore, we consult fully with our clients, taking their medical and skincare history into consideration.
How do you keep your services and products relevant? By constantly tapping into what is new in the skincare world. I find that, by working closely with the three product houses I carry, it is easier to keep updated, because they are constantly researching. By attending their workshops as well as the bigger beauty conferences, we know the latest trends and products.
Do you have any future plans for the salon? I have just made the very bold move from Tokai to a shopping centre in Constantia. My marketing strategy and material had
to be changed and the general managing of the clinic in the new location is so different. The plan is to grow my clinic to the next level and we trust that winning this prestigious award will assist us with this. We are truly proud.
Salon of the Year (4 Rooms or More) Chique Skin Technology (Rita Shaw) What do you think makes your salon different from other salons? We have a very personal and warm touch. All employees are like family and therefore act as a unity. We believe that our clients are our future and we love them as if they are part of the family. Our standards are very high and our prices affordable.
What practices have you implemented to ensure success? A business’s staff is its most important asset, so I ensure that all staff members always have high morale and are motivated. We believe in working hard and playing hard, so monthly teambuilding events ensure that the group bonds. I only employ therapists who are passionate about beauty and do a personality evaluation during job interviews. I believe that if my staff are happy, my clients will be too.
What is the salon’s vision? Our vision for the future is to provide the best treatments and up-to-date information for clients. We strive to have the most recent technology
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
available and to have at least one new machine or treatment offering per year. We want to grow and open a few extra branches of Chique Skin Technology.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty awards
43 Nail Salon of the Year SOHO Nails | Waxing | Beauty (Getty Gizaw) How does it feel to have won the award for Nail Salon of the Year for the third consecutive year? Absolutely amazing!! We are totally thrilled to have won this incredible award.
What differentiates SOHO from other nail salons in the market? I always say that it’s not about what we do, but rather how we do it that makes a big difference. At SOHO, our culture is about treating people in the way we would want to be treated. We don’t try to be different; we just treat our guests as if they’re guests in our private homes.
What is SOHO’s service ethos? Convenience, comfort, high standards, excellent products and service, as well as pre-emptive measures – anticipating a person’s needs prior to them having to ask.
Aesthetic Clinic of the Year Body Sculpting Medical Spa (Carla Badenhorst) Please comment on winning the inaugural Aesthetic Clinic of the Year Award. To have won is nothing short of a great honour. Not only did it reward the entire team and fill them with a sense of great achievement, it has fuelled our passion and commitment to the industry of providing excellent service. Without Body Sculpting Medical Spa’s highly trained, professional and dedicated therapists and nail technicians, this award would not have been possible. It acts as a reflection and a symbol of all the hard work and dedication from the staff.
What is the clinic’s point of uniqueness in the industry? We pride ourselves in being an allin-one beauty and medical spa. We serve one of the most upper-class communities in Pretoria. Not only do we provide the best beauty treatments the industry has to offer, we provide in-house training for all our products and services. Our clients can expect nothing but
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the best from our highly qualified therapists. Besides the careful service we provide on location at the spa, we provide services which include lunchtime lipo treatments, Botox and fillers. The latter service is performed by our very own in-house doctor, Ben Greyling, who attends regular training and workshops in this regard. We offer the Lipolite (Lunchtime Lipo) procedure and
Velashape II. Both these treatments are in line with the international trends. Velashape II is the world’s number one contouring and cellulite reduction treatment, as used by celebrities such as Kim Kardashian. Not only is the Velashape II used in the US, it is also available in the UK and Europe. Our Botox and filler treatments adhere to international standards.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
professional beauty awards
44 Therapist of the Year Marian Nelson (Origin Day Spa) What do you feel sets you apart from other therapists? Education, experience and professionalism. My passion, dedication, love and enthusiasm for the skincare and beauty industry is evident the moment you walk into Origin Day Spa. Being an excellent therapist means creating a sense of calmness, wellbeing and trust in your clients. I am the professional best friend that they know they can come to when they are unsure about any aspect of their skincare routine.
What key factors do you focus on in order to excel in your profession? I live by the C.R.U.I.S.E. motto – Courtesy, Respect, Unfailing in Service Excellence. Consumers of today are much more savvy than they were 15 years ago, so I constantly attend new product and treatment courses. I strive on client feedback and listen to what my client’s wants and needs are. Client service is imperative and a must. I thrive on seeing the end results and my clients’ reactions. Service innovation is another key factor. I customise each treatment according to the client’s concerns in order to meet their expectations.
Spa/Salon Manager of the Year – Joanne Frances Basson (Sanctuary Spa) What qualities make for a good manager? I personally feel that a good manager is the driving force of the business. You need to always maintain a thriving work atmosphere for employees, keep them motivated and inspire them to be a greater success in the business. You need to lead your staff on the right path and have the emotional stability not to let them see you upset or frustrated when things become overwhelming. I always try and listen to my staff, understand their concerns and solve problems efficiently.
How do you motivate your staff? A motivated team does a better job, so I like to keep my team up to date with all the latest products and treatments in the beauty industry. I enjoy taking my team out for dinner and drinks, this allows them to see me in a different atmosphere and we are all able to relax and have fun. I have a motivational weekly chat with the girls to go over their concerns and highlights of the week.
What areas do you need to focus on to ensure a successfully run business? I am a great believer in having a plan for your business: one needs to focus on strategies, objectives and marketing. A lot of businesses tend to forget about providing great service to their clients, if this is done correctly they are more inclined to revisit your business and ensure a successfully run spa.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty awards
45 Day Spa of the Year Urban Glow Day Spa (Lizel van der Sandt) How do you feel about winning this award, having only opened the spa on 1 April this year? We are so ‘chuffed’ about winning you have no idea!
What do you think makes your spa unique in the market? Our modern look and feel as well as our 5-Star service. We try to stand out by being a bit more fresh and colourful than other spas. Our highly trained staff are also way above average, and we make sure every client leaves our spa addicted for more. Each room has its own unique ‘theme’ and colour code, so colour therapy plays a big role in our spa.
How do you go about attracting and retaining clients? Because of our very different colour scheme we attract quite a lot of attention, as Urban Glow does not have the usual ‘natural’ coloured spa theme. Our biggest marketing tool is word of mouth and as we are making so many clients happy on a daily basis. The growth of the spa has been phenomenal. We try to advertise widely on a weekly and monthly basis as well as send the therapists out to do events and promotions.
Hotel/Resort Spa of the Year Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa (Michelle Walker) How does your spa stand out from other hotel/ resort spas? Umngazi Spa has a unique location situated on the top of beautiful hills overlooking the ocean – our ‘soundtrack’ for treatments is the sound of waves and bird life. We blend in beautifully with the surroundings and with the local community. Our service and quality of treatments are of an international standard. The spa’s motto of ‘Arrive as a guest, leave as a friend’ is something we want every guest to experience.
What do you feel have been the contributing factors to the spa’s success? The importance of hospitality and the complete guest
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experience is the key to our spa’s success. We all strive to live this value and hope that it is felt in every guest’s interaction with every team member. This passion is coupled with an amazing group of ladies who have a passion for the spa industry.
As a Hotel/Resort Spa, how do you retain staff? Our company policy is to employ staff from the Umngazi Valley. Through our Spa Development Programme over the past seven years we have grown an incredible team of therapists, who progress from doing complimentary hand massages around the pool to becoming fully fledged therapists. We then choose three therapists who are committed to a one-year contract. Many of these have extended their contracts or have returned to us again.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
eyeSlices® proudly celebrating with our WINNERS!
Proudly Professional. Proud to be South African. Proud of the Winners.
You and eyeSlices® – Doing life together
Calgel
industry awards
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Industry Awards The Professional Beauty Industry Awards acknowledge suppliers for their service and support. Through active marketing campaigns, we were able to receive the industry’s voice.
Entrepreneur of the Year Janine Janse van Rensburg (Poise Brands) What qualities do you need to be an entrepreneur? I believe that entrepreneurship comes from a very personal place and that being an entrepreneur is a calling – it’s about scratching the itch that just won’t go away. Entrepreneurs need an unwavering passion for what they do and they need to be ambitious and brave. In addition to being able to handle stress, you must have sound business skills and experience in the field you want to pursue. The ability to build strong relationships is invaluable. You must also have the ability to spot and assess opportunities and the appetite to follow through when you spot the right one.
2014 Finalists Best Supplier – Skincare Environ (Winner) RégimA Six Sensational Products TheraVine
Best Supplier – Nail Care Bio Sculpture OPI Sparkle Cosmetics (Essie & Gelish) (Winner) Young Nails
Best Supplier – Equipment/ Supplies Lycon Distribution Marine Spa Distributors Smart Buy (Winner) TheraVine Young Nails
Best Marketing How do you these qualities assist one to grow and expand a business? Being an entrepreneur is very rewarding, however it comes with its own set of challenges. Hard work will contribute hugely to your success, but passion and determination will get you through the highs and lows that come with running your own business. Experience in whatever you want to pursue is vitally important, as you will need an in-depth knowledge of how a particular industry operates – what has been done and how it should be done going forward.
What are your business plans for the future? Our immediate focus is the continued growth of Mio Skincare and the successful launch of our exciting new facial brand, Juliette Armand. We want to be seen as experts, trusted advisors who offer invaluable business support and advice to our stockists. Long-term growth will include further diversification and innovation. The world is our oyster and we are excited to see what the future holds.
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Dermalogica (Winner) Lycon Distribution Six Sensational Products TheraVine
Best Training Environ RégimA (Winner) TheraVine Young Nails
Sales Representative of the Year Jani de Ridder, Lycon Distribution Juanita Scholtz, TheraVine (Winner) Michelle Arde, Six Sensational Products Nicolette Fourier, Marine Spa Distributors
Entrepreneur of the Year Debbie Kayle, Sparkle Cosmetics Jacqui Faucitt, RégimA Janine Janse van Rensburg, Poise Brands (Winner) Kerryne Krause-Neufeldt, eyeSlices
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
industry awards
48 Best Marketing Dermalogica (Natasha Proksch) How does it feel to have won the award for Best Marketing for the second year running? Winning this award is truly an honour for the Dermalogica Tribe. It reaffirms our position as the professional’s number one choice for skincare, even for their own skin, and proves that all our efforts and hard work have paid off.
What do you think has contributed to Dermalogica’s continued success in this award category? Creativity, passion and purpose, combined with innovative thinking, continue to contribute to our success as a marketing team.
Please describe a recent Dermalogica marketing strategy that you feel has worked really well in this competitive market. Dermalogica marketing campaigns are always centred on touching people’s skin and educating them on the importance of skin health through personal interaction with expert skincare therapists. Our current campaign, ‘Get Naked with Dermalogica’, is a 360 degree strategy that includes print media, social media, out-of-home advertising, in-mall advertising, eventing within our stockist’s skincare centres and our concept stores, as well as mall centre
court activations. This campaign, our mechanism to launch the BioSurface Peel, went live with the making of our ‘Get Naked with Dermalogica’ video, which includes celebrities like LeAnne Dlamini, Siv Ngesi and Jonathan Boynton-Lee revealing their personal skin concerns.
Best Training RégimA (Jacqui Faucitt) What do you feel you do differently to other suppliers in terms of training? RégimA’s approach to training is that it is not only about product knowledge, but also about training the therapists more on skin health, prevention and treatment of all skin conditions and skin problems. I feel it is our duty to educate. By empowering therapists with extra knowledge on how to treat and change lives they can, and will in turn, educate the consumer about the importance of more than which cleanser to use.
What would you say are the key elements to training success? There exist a multitude of criteria which can be used to evaluate training success, the synergistic culmination of which only has value in terms of how well the trainee understands the concepts and patterns presented by the information and its context in order to apply the material in their professional capacity. This may be achieved by several techniques centred on inquiry, discussion and exploration, as well as relation to personal experience. With each variant of approach the material is better assimilated and processed, leading to more dynamic flexibility in principle application. Because of these factors, regular training is critical. Different levels of training, including advanced, professional, and medical aesthetics are required. There must always be a basic company philosophy in
the training schedule; however, one must stimulate, motivate and add passion to every training session.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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industry awards
50 Best Supplier: Equipment/Supplies Smart Buy (Adriaan Jordaan) How does it feel to have won this award for two years in succession? I’m very proud of my team and appreciate the support that we have received from our clients.
What processes have you implemented to ensure complete customer satisfaction? Every complaint is dealt with immediately and every compliment appreciated.
How would you describe your service? We walk the extra mile.
Best Supplier: Skincare Environ (Val Carstens & Wayne La Grange) What is the significance of having won this award for two consecutive years? Environ is so proud to have received this award once again from our stockists and it is truly a motivator for us to continue to innovate the Environ brand to meet and exceed the growing demands of our discerning customers. Our state of the art manufacturing facility ensures that we will have the capability to meet the demand and offer effective products to ensure our consumers have beautiful skin for a lifetime.
What do you think sets Environ apart from other skincare suppliers in terms of service? The dedicated team of customer relationship consultants call every client on our national database, providing individual attention to their requirements and those of their customers. They assist with recommendations of correct stock configurations and stock levels of our product range, to merchandising, promotional implementation, educating of therapists as well as paying careful attention to the specific needs of our clients in order to grow their businesses. Most importantly, every staff member, whether in marketing, education, sales or our logistics departments, is geared to maximising efficiency, solving problems and thus creating a culture of mutual understanding and growth. Should
any client wish to discuss a business idea – we are open to listen and make time to discuss new ideas regularly. We are constantly searching for new ways in which to change our business to cater to our clients’ needs more attentively. Relationships are vital to us.
How do you go about attracting new clients? Environ has been a solid brand in the world for almost 2½ decades. We care deeply about education, whether it be in beauty schools, salons or in our three training institutes around South Africa. We provide detailed, professional education on skincare as well as the application of our products. This education system was written and is maintained by Environ founder, Dr Des Fernandes. Our team of consultants actively and continually seeks out powerful new partners who resonate with Environ’s ethos of creating beautiful skin for a lifetime through a journey of professional diagnosis and client consultation. Word of mouth from satisfied consumers also contributes to our success, and we thank all for the part they have played in our journey.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
industry awards
51 Best Supplier: Nail Care Sparkle Cosmetics (Debbie Kayle)
How does Sparkle Cosmetics stand out in terms of service? At Sparkle we pride ourselves on unbeatable service, while offering the clients international brand leaders at affordable pricing. Â
How do you go about ensuring that you maintain strong relationships with your clients? We ensure that we take exceptional care of our clients. Now married with Sparkle Nail Academy, which offers training, education and development to international standards, we will continue to strive to be our clients’ nail supplier of choice.
Sales Representative of the Year Juanita Scholtz (TheraVine) How does it feel to have won this award for the second time? It felt somewhat unreal walking up to the stage to receive this prestigious award for the second year in a row. It is a humbling experience knowing that my clients believe in me and voted for me with confidence. And, it is an honour and privilege to have been part of the wonderful team at L.S Enterprises for the past three years, being able to contribute to the growing success of both our brands, TheraVine and TheraNaka.
What do you feel are your strong points that were instrumental in winning the award twice? It is very important to have experience of a variety of aspects within the industry, such as spa operations, spa management,
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business development, training, staff motivation, marketing and sales. With this knowledge, I can assist my stockists in more ways than one. As a sales representative, one often has to deal with challenging situations, while competition presents itself at your doorstep on a regular basis in a rapidly growing health and beauty industry. I always view a potential problem as an opportunity to challenge myself to grow personally and professionally. Commitment to success and excellence, dedication and working hard towards your goals are essential characteristics, but, most important, KNOW your brand and ALWAYS represent it with inspirational excitement, confidence and passion!
What is your philosophy in terms of dealing with clients? I always treat my stockists and
their businesses as if they were my own: honestly earning their trust through integrity and continued support, while paying attention to detail, and truly caring for their individual, unique business needs. Always attend to clients promptly, efficiently and professionally with a friendly smile to lighten up any day.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
treatment review – spider vein removal
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Not scared of ‘the Spider’ The Spider Vascular Thermo-coagulator from Argentine company Ecleris is an effective way to banish spider veins, as Martie Pretorius discovers.
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have a cluster of spider veins on my inner thigh just above the knee, which I was keen to get rid of. Danelle Landman, clinical trainer at Radiant Healthcare, an Ecleris distributor, explained that the Spider is ideally suited for telangiectasias (small dilated blood vessels near the surface of the skin). Veins must be red (and not blue) and should not exceed 1.1mm in diameter. She told me that although the Spider is relatively new to the local market, it is already in use in clinics in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Tzaneen and Cape Town. “The Spider is a radio frequency (RF) device that uses a tiny, insulated needle to drive the energy pulse to desired location and deliver a highly accurate amount of energy. In this way, the Spider produces a thermal injury which results in the effective thermocoagulation of the blood vessel, reducing collateral tissue damage. It is suitable for use for both face and legs,” commented Landman. For patients with a high pain threshold there is no pre-treatment preparation. As I have a low pain threshold, Landman applied a topical anaesthetic before commencing
the treatment. She then pre-set the machine to work on a vein diameter of 0.7mm and used the K5 needle. To my surprise, the needle literally only touched the top of the skin over each vein, so there was no piercing of the skin involved. It felt like nothing more than slight pin pricks. I was amazed to see the redness decrease as soon as the needle touched each area. Landman said that I could expect a bit of swelling and crusting posttreatment but that the swelling would go away the same day. “This is a very safe and precise technology backed by successful clinical trials. We recommend between one and five treatments, depending on the client, area and the severity of the condition, and at least four to six weeks apart. “The needles are disposable and for single patient use only. Thermal
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
coagulation can be done at any time of the year, and, because the Spider is an RF device, it is suitable for all skin types. Another benefit is that it can be performed on smaller, more difficult to reach areas,” stated Landman. She noted that contraindications are pace-makers, skin infections or skin disease and allergy to the medical grade material of which the needles are made. Following the 20-minute treatment, Landman emphasised the importance of aftercare – the treated area should not be exposed to any form of heat or cream for 12 hours. Apart from telangiectasia, the Spider can treat rosacea, erythema and ruby spots. PB
Contact: Radiant Healthcare 011 794 8252/3
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Visibly Better!
Powered by
treatment review – spider vein removal
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No more need
Multi-Spot Nd:YAG – Leg Veins – Leg Veins Multi-Spot Nd:YAG
to cover up
Achieving her desire for picture-perfect legs proved possible for Tina van der Merwe when she underwent a treatment with the Lumenis M22 Multi-Spot Nd:YAG.
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ecently I’ve been noticing a web of The Nd: YAG 1064nm laser’s treatment was performed as an unsightly blue and focused beams of light are directed office procedure. Since surrounding purple spider veins at the problem veins, targeting only skin tissue isn’t damaged by the on my legs, which at the precise blood vessel without laser, you can immediately resume times were painful, itchy and swollen. harming the surrounding tissue. The your regular daily activities. Baseline light heats up the blood, After 3 that treatments, ThisBaseline caused me to become less eager After 3 treatments, Olivier stressed the with 3 weeks between treatme with 3 weeks between treatments to bare my otherwise flawless skin. causing it to clot and break laser only treats those veins Hitech Lasers, the Southern down the blood vessel. that are currently visible and African distributor of Lumenis, “Because of the body’s does nothing to permanently of Gilly natural Munavalli,healing MD Courtesy of Gilly MD Courtesy offered meMunavalli, a complimentary vein process, alter the venous system or PB-1005298 Rev treatment with the Lumenis M22 the blood in the targeted prevent new veins from Multi-Platform Nd:YAG laser module. veins will be reabsorbed, surfacing in future. He Wicus Olivier, director: while the veins will also emphasised that aesthetics, Hitech Lasers, explained disappear,” continued large vessels (more than that spider veins are formed by the Olivier. “Because the approximately 4mm) or dilation of a small group of blood laser light used in this varicose veins cannot vessels located close to the surface vein treatment goes be treated. of the skin. straight to the vein, there During treatment I “Although they can appear is little or no risk of burns noticed a warm sting anywhere on the body, spider veins or blisters on the skin. on my skin but I could are most commonly found on the “Lumenis’ M22 easily tolerate the face and legs. They usually pose no Nd:YAG is the only procedure. Following health hazard, but may ache when in Nd:YAG laser with the treatment, the skin the legs. Multiple Sequential was noticeably more “Spider vein treatment with the Pulsing technology uniform and naturalLumenis M22 Multi-spot Nd:YAG which protects the looking, and I was laser module is a very safe, effective, epidermis, allowing safe advised to protect the non-invasive and virtually pain-free use of higher fluences. For precise treated areas against direct sunlight outpatient procedure. As the world’s treatment the system works with two with an SPF 50. PB largest manufacturer of medical cooled and easily exchangeable light lasers, Lumenis is world-renowned guides.” for the speed, quality and safety of The procedure is relatively quick Contact: Hitech Lasers its systems,” said Olivier. – 15 minutes to an hour, depending 012 349 1250 After experiencing this procedure, on the size of the area being treated I can vouch that this is true. – and no anaesthesia is needed. My
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
online at www.probeauty.co.za
Lumenis M22 ®
TM
Multiple Technologies in One Modular System
Treatment for over 30 skin conditions and hair removal
Universal IPL • •
•
Optimal Pulse Technology (OPT™) Single handpiece with changeable filters and lightguides For IPL skin treatments using photorejuvenation
ResurFX™ •
• •
After
Before
Universal IPL with OPT - Lentigos Courtesy of J. Matthew Knight, MD
Multiple Technologies
3 weeks after 2 treatments, with 15 months between treatments
Baseline
ResurFX™ - Skin Resurfacing Courtesy of Matteo Tretti Clementoni, MD
Performance ALL you need ALL in one
The only True fractional non-ablative, with CoolScan™ scanner No disposables For skin resurfacing
3 months after 3 treatments, with 1 month between treatments
Baseline
• •
The only one with Multiple Sequential Pulsing (MSP) 2 sized lightguides, changeable in seconds For treatment of leg veins and vascular lesions
Q-Switched Nd:YAG •
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Q-Switched Nd:YAG Dark Tattoo Removal
Homogenous beam profile for enhanced treatment safety and efficacy For skin toning, dark tattoos removal, and combination treatments Baseline
www.hitechlasers.co.za E-mail: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za Office: 012 349 1250 Mobile: 071 147 3911 Find us on Facebook
After 3 treatments, with 3 weeks between treatments
Baseline
Courtesy of Michael Oeser, MD
•
Multi-Spot™ Nd:YAG - Leg Veins Courtesy of Gilly Munavalli, MD
Multi-Spot™ Nd:YAG
After 5 treatments
profile
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Behind ‘the growth signal’ We conducted a six-month study on brain signalling in conjunction with the Harvard Medical Institute.” In the study, which involved people from different walks of life and age groups, Hussain identified what he refers to as ‘the growth signal’. “This signal sends a message to the body via the brain and accelerates the growth of the cell, resulting in faster cell division. The growth signal is a natural occurring signal with its own genetic code. When one is over the age of 25, the signalling process stops and cells work at a normal regenerative pace. We found a way to mimic the growth signal process,” he explained.
Natural regeneration
Ali Hussain, founder of the UK-based Sonic Medical Systems, recently visited South Africa to participate in the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Expo. He spoke to Joanna Sterkowicz about the company’s A Lift skin rejuvenation system.
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rofessional Beauty Johannesburg was the first South African showcase for Sonic Medical Systems’ products – the A Lift, the Diamond Elite, a dermabrasion device, and the company’s IPL hair removal system – the Zeolight. “We had a great response to our products at the show,” said Ali Hussain. “In particular there was a lot of interest from Indian doctors who were keen to find out what the A Lift can do for their skin type. A Lift is a nanocurrent facial enhancement therapy that is non-invasive, non-toxic and pain-free.”
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Flagship product The A Lift is Sonic Medical Systems’ most famous device, with over 800 units sold globally. It was the first machine invented by Hussain, who has a degree in electrical engineering and a master’s degree in computer science. “For 20 years I worked freelance and was the go-to consultant for manufacturers,” continued Hussain. “In 2006 I formed Sonic Medical Systems as I wanted to design and build my own equipment. I was particularly interested in brain signalling – how the brain communicates with cells and how cells communicate with each other.
Hussain built a processor which issues 18 million instructions per second to mimic the growth signal. Because he found that the brain rejects any signal that is not on the same resonance as the human brain, Hussain built a bio-feedback device to measure the harmonic resonance of the skin and the resistance of the skin. He continued: “Sonic then created a complex algorithm to ensure that the correct dosage of nanocurrent (electrical impulses) is delivered in the signal. We got the body to accept this signal and discovered that the metabolism of the cells in our test subjects increased. We concluded that a cell’s genetic code is triggered every time it gets the signal.” This theory was subsequently scientifically verified by the Mount Sinai School of Medicine in Manhattan, which conducted tests on human cells from donors. “The A Lift works in harmony with your body’s own electrical system to achieve natural regeneration,” concluded Hussain. PB
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
skin rejuvenation
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Facing up to
Pic: Elemis
technology
According to recent statistics from the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS), which surveyed 2700 aesthetic plastic surgeons in 95 countries, 1 307 300 non-invasive facial rejuvenation treatments were conducted in 2013. Here are some of the latest non-surgical skin rejuvenation technologies on the market.
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frequency that effectively heats up the dermis with minimal epidermal disruption, leading to a smoother and rejuvenated appearance of the skin.”
satisfaction. Treatments personalised according to client’s specific needs.
Scientific iontophoresis With the world-renowned Ionzyme DFll Machine, South African skincare brand Environ pioneered the use of scientific iontophoresis and low frequency sonophoresis for the treatment of photo-ageing and other skin concerns. This specialised treatment is offered globally by trained skincare professionals. Benefits of the DF machine include enhanced penetration of professional serums, user-friendly treatments with no risks or side effects and suitability for all skin types, conditions and ages, visible results and client
Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers describes the treatment outcomes of the Lumenis M22 modules as ‘exceptional’. She continues: “A leading plastic surgeon who attended the recent DASIL Congress at Sun City, Dr Matteo Tretti-Clementoni from Milan, Italy, emphasised the outstanding quality and abilities of the M22 during a session on technology systems. “The M22’s ResurFX module is the only true fractional non-ablative ‘one pass is all it takes’ technology. Unlike other fractional technologies, ResurFX needs only one pass to
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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are each
Powerful modules
Pic: Syneron eTwo
he eTwo from Syneron, distributed by Radiant Healthcare, combines Sublime and Sublative applications for advanced non-invasive facial rejuvenation. “Safe for all skin types, the eTwo system not only enables your clinic to treat skin rejuvenation patients, but also to add non-invasive wrinkle treatments,” explains Danelle Landman, clinical trainer at Radiant Healthcare. “The Sublime uses the - s Technology of infracombined elo red and bi-polar radio frequency to remodel the deep layer of the dermis, by stimulating new collagen growth for the improvement of wrinkles and the contour of the skin. “The Sublative application is fractionated bi-polar radio
skin rejuvenation
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ResurFX ResurFX – Skin – Skin Resurfacing Resurfacing TM
TM
Baseline
3 months after 4 treatments with
ResurFX - Skin Resurfacing
be effective, saving you time 2 month between treatments and protecting the patient’s skin. ResurFX uses a 1565nm fibre laser and a very advanced scanner, which enables you to choose from more than 600 combinations of shape, size and density for optimal treatment results.” Olivier points out that the ResurFX module has a stateof-the-art CoolScan scanner for non-sequential scanning. The patent-pending algorithm Baseline Baseline places each fractional spot in 3 months after 3 months 4 treatments, after 4 treatments, with 1 monthwith between 1 month treatments between treatments a controlled manner to protect laser stimulates the production of client remarkable results on a range of the tissue from heat accumulation new collagen and elastic fibres in the skin-aging concerns such as age and Courtesy of Courtesy Matteo Tretti of Matteo Clementoni, Tretti Clementoni, MD MD and overheating. This ability is unique deeper layers of the skin.” sun spots, fine lines, acne scars, uneven First 2 treatments: First 2 100 treatments: µbeams/cm 100 µbeams/cm 60 mJ only on 60the mJ scar only on the scar 2 treatments: Last 2 250 treatments: µbeams/cm 250 µbeams/cm 45 mJand on the45scar mJ +on150 the µbeams/cm scar + 150 50 mJ on the50entire mJ on area the entire area to the ResurFX 1565nm Last fibre laser. texture skin tone. Itµbeams/cm combines Selective photothermoloysis The ResurFX hand piece is equipped two FDA-cleared technologies – IPL Available from Medilase, the Viora with continuous contact cooling, (Intense Pulsed Light) and ResurFX Trios IPL and Reaction are affordable to increase patient comfort during (non-ablative skin resurfacing), so systems for beauty salons. Trios safely treatment. that both skin tone and texture can and gently applies concentrated She describes the Lumenis be treated simultaneously. The IPL flashes of light that target sun spots, Photofractional treatment as a technology removes both unwanted age spots, loose skin and wrinkles to complete skin rejuvenation solution. pigmentation and blood vessels from encourage collagen production and R “It enables the clinician to offer a the skin, while the ResurFX fractional PB-1005298 Rev B PB-1005298 Rev B
2
2
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2
2
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Zeolite IPL / RF Machine Launch price
Included: Skin tightening applicator
R220,000.00 Optional extra: Nd: YAG laser head attachment (R46,000.00)
Heads: 590nm 22cm² 610nm 5cm² 515nm 1cm²
A quick and effective exfoliating facial machine Includes: Electric Sterilizer tank Full set of Diamond heads
Revolution in age-reversal using nanocurrent technology
Launch price
R72,000.00
Launch price
Re-energizes cells in the face and body
R69,600.00
The feeling of a VIP facial treatment No needles, no pain, no chemicals Immediate results and long lasting effects
www.sonicmedical.co.za +27 82 905 3438
skin rejuvenation
promote restructuring of the skin. Based on a process called selective photothermoloysis, the light emitted by Trios is absorbed by targeted chromophores (light-sensitive cells) to encourage a specific biological process to achieve the desired clinical result. Viora‘s Reaction with ReFit is an ideal solution for a younger-looking skin. It treats the extra folds, sagging skin and stretch marks left behind after rapid weight loss, by tightening and firming the skin, resulting in smoother-textured, tauter skin.
ReLift, also powered by Reaction, treats the lower face and neck, by reducing local fat volume in the cheeks and chin areas, contouring the jawline, as well as tightening skin around the lower face and neck, leading to a younger, more contoured appearance. Reaction combines the use of radiofrequency (RF) energy and vacuum massage to provide treatments for skin tightening and facial contouring. RF energy heats the dermis and stimulates collagen synthesis to strengthen existing collagen fibres for significant improvement in skin laxity, sagginess and texture.
Pic: BTL
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Thermal waves With its sophisticated delivery of RF energy, the BTL Exillis Elite can be safely used on all skin types for facial rejuvenation and collagen remodelling. Says Branislav Suˇ canský of BTL Medical: “There is no anaesthesia or pain medication required with the Exillis Elite, and there is no downtime for the patient. This system is backed by scientifically proven outcomes and clinically tested results. “The Exilis Elite procedure uses safe thermal waves to heat your skin and target fat cells. Its dual energy delivery speeds up the metabolic activity of the fat cells and causes them to shrink. At the same time Exilis Elite stimulates and strengthens the collagen network, which improves skin laxity and texture. “While the Exilis Elite is heating the dermis, you will remain relaxed and comfortable as the system’s digital thermometer provides real-time monitoring and constant feedback regarding the skin’s temperature, thus ensuring a comfortable and safe treatment.”
and lymphatic circulation. Micro current uses small pulses of micro current designed to mirror the body’s own natural current, stimulating the skin’s biological energy to re-educate and strengthen muscle memory for significantly firmer, more defined facial contours. Galvanic is a two-step treatment that works synergistically with positive and negative charged ions to minimise fine lines, dullness, photo-ageing, sensitivity and blemishes. O2 Infusion therapy uses powerful bursts of compressed air to infuse the skin with a combination of 95% pure oxygen and selected high-potency actives to help visibly plump out fine lines and increase skin firmness. Light Therapy emits energy in the form of red light into the deeper layers of the skin to stimulate collagen production, increasing cell renewal and boosting the mirco-circulation to plump and smooth the appearance of fine lines. PB
Five technologies Luxury British spa brand Elemis launched its Biotec machine in South Africa this year. Biotec comprises five machine technologies which are used in conjunction with the brand’s active ingredients to deliver a range of anti-ageing facials. The ultrasonic technology stimulates collagen production to minimise the appearance of fine lines and accelerate blood
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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product focus – natural & organic
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Au naturel The natural and organic sector is growing steadily in popularity worldwide, but the two terms are not one and the same thing. Natural means any plant, mineral, or animal by-product, whereas organic refers to how an ingredient was cultivated (without pesticides, chemical fertilisers, growth hormones, or antibiotics).
Nourishing elixir Grape power The Africology Grape Stem Cell handcrafted infused body spray is locally made with 100% natural stem cells. Grape Stem Cell technology protects longevity of skin stem cells and rejuvenates the skin matrix thanks to its growth factor-like activity, while boosting collagen and elastin production.
011 791 6890
DermaFix Argan Oil, a 100% pure Ecocert and Natrue organic certified oil, is obtained from the kernels of the Argan tree, endemic to Morocco. Argan oil has regenerating and protecting properties to maintain skin’s youthful qualities. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, eczema and psoriasisprone skin.
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Zesty cleanser Among the new RégimA Zone Products that contain natural and organic ingredients, as well as high-tech synthesised nature-identical actives, is the Derma Zest Cleansing & Toning Gel. Main actives are ruby star grapefruit oil (anti-bacterial and anti-viral properties), bisabolol (healing properties) and geranium flower oil (sebum balancing properties).
011 615 2869
Flavoursome collection The Spalicious range is made with natural and plant-derived ingredients and its main manicure and pedicure collection offers two flavours – Fig and Pomegranate. This collection has been specially formulated to enhance the guest experience and consists of Soak, Scrub, Mask and Butter.
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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product focus – natural & organic
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From the sea One hundred percent of Phytomer’s active ingredients are of natural origin. Phytomer uses more types of seaweed in their product than any other marine-based cosmetic brand. Its Hydrasea Thirst-Relief Rehydrating Mask is a light and creamy mask with weaving algae which delivers a dual moisturising action.
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Beaucience Botanicals Eye Resque Gel has been formulated specifically to protect and nurture the fragile skin under the eye, leaving it toned, conditioned and smooth. All Beaucience products contain proteasyl (created from the pea). The range utilises highly effective naturally derived peptide technology, combined with organic extracts, essential oils and vegetable oils.
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Invigorating range Refresh Body and Mind was developed by Carol Cos, an internationally qualified health and skincare therapist, who felt that there was a need for certain products in the spa retail market. All products are produced in South Africa and have been tested to ensure safety and efficacy, with no testing on animals.
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Touch of France Used by more than 500 salons and spas in France, the eco-friendly and organic skincare range from Provence Santé is now available in South Africa. All Provence Santé products are EcoCert certified, and they do not contain GMOs, parabens, phenoxyethanol, nanoparticles, silicon, PEG, synthetic colours and fragrances. Ninety five percent of the plant material is organically produced.
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nails
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Enhancement When nail enhancements first came to the forefront in the mid-1950s they were traditionally developed using acrylic dental products. Today there are a multitude of professional enhancement products to choose from in liquid & powder (acrylic) and gel form, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
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he professional nail industry is constantly evolving, with innovative new products and technological advancements, procedures and techniques introduced on a regular basis. As science changes so too does information, and if you are a serious nail professional it is imperative that you stay up to date. Nail technicians need to be well educated in all aspects of nail technology and highly skilled in creating beautiful, natural-looking nail enhancements that will last and do minimal damage to their client’s natural nails. Being consistent in every area of your work is vital to being able to create beautiful nail enhancements every time you construct a set. Remember that products and application techniques will differ from one manufacturer to another. When starting out on a career as a nail technician it is recommended that you master one system before continuing with the next, as it is almost impossible to be a master of all to begin with.
Family ties Although the liquid & powder system was traditionally known as an acrylic system, all nail enhancement systems are related to the same chemical family, and are inevitably all made up of some form of acrylic. They just work on different principles when bonding
together to form a solid, durable nail coating. It is therefore important to understand what differentiates one system from another.
• Methacrylate – liquid monomer • Acrylates – UV light gels Acrylics are among some of the most sophisticated chemicals used in the beauty industry today. The process by which a liquid or semiliquid becomes a solid is known as polymerisation and the arranging and rearranging of chemical molecules to create different polymer chains is known as a chemical reaction. These polymer chains cross-link with one another, forming a strong durable coating to create a nail enhancement. Nail companies have used advancements in product technology to their advantage and products have become extremely high-tech, using various different methods to get the polymer chains to react differently and form even stronger, more durable and longer-lasting nail enhancements. Some of these advantages include: toughness, superior adhesion, colour stability, durability, and better workability, making the nail technician’s work far easier. With these latest advancements a nail technician should definitely not be battling with crystallising, bubbles, colour clarity, and long setting time.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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nails
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performance Client needs The type of system and products chosen to create the prefect set of enhancements will depend on various factors to ensure that the client is given the treatment that is going to last longest and provide the best wearability. This will be determined by a thorough consultation and analysis of the client’s natural nails and lifestyle. There is now huge emphasis placed on the health of the natural nail and it has become a major priority in nail enhancement development. The way in which products bond to the natural nail no longer requires excessive dehydration or over-buffing of the natural nail. It is ultimately the nail technician’s duty to preserve the integrity and health of the client’s natural nails.
Liquid & powder No matter which system you choose it is important to follow the recommended instructions of the chosen product, or else you will experience service breakdown. The liquid & powder system has been around for many years and comprises two components – a monomer (the liquid) and a polymer (the powder). When the two are combined, a solid is formed. It has always been considered as one of the strongest systems available due to its tough, durable, molecular structure. Mix ratio – this is the ratio of liquid to powder units to create the correct consistency and will vary from one brand to another. It is one of the most challenging things to achieve when first starting out. Gel is already premixed so it is easier for the technician to handle.
Gel system This is a single component system of ready-toapply nail enhancements and is cured under UV (ultra violet) light. The molecular chains in this system are known as oligomers (and are shorter than polymer chains), which allow UV light to penetrate the gel to aid in the curing process. Liquid & powder has always been considered the stronger system, however this is no longer the
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case, as the gel system can be just as strong and durable. Differences in various gels are viscosity or thickness and will vary depending on what they are used for. Thicker gels are used for sculpting and building, while the thinner gels are more self-levelling and are used as a base or top layer. There are also many variations of colours available to accomplish just about any look, from the most natural to French, to coloured gels for a chipfree, semi-permanent colour overlay or manicure. Soak-off gels are now available, as opposed to gels that are buffed off. It is very important that gels are properly cured under the UV light and that the light completely penetrates the gel to polymerise the oligomers, otherwise there is the risk of the product breaking down or lifting from the natural nail plate.
Sculpting Although sculpting has almost become a lost or forgotten art, which requires plenty of skill and precision, it can be the most effective way of R
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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enhancing any nail shape that there is, including those of nail biters. Advancement in product technology in both liquid & powder and gel offers the professional nail technician myriad possibilities and the freedom not only to sculpt nail enhancements, which are thin, natural-looking, fashionably long and strong, but also to explore their artistic abilities to create the most unusual shapes and 3-dimensional nail art designs. For me sculpting is the ultimate technique to achieve the best and most beautiful enhancements. For a new nail technician, sculpting can be quite a daunting and difficult technique to grasp, but also very rewarding. Proper education in this skill is vital and applies not only to the application of the product, but to how to place and fit the sculpting form. Using the correct tools and equipment, such as sculpting forms, dowels and goodquality sculpting brushes, is necessary.
Training Says Sparkle Nail Academy head educator Lucia Oosthuizen: “Different brands which supply gel and or acrylic products will require you to attend a training session. This is often referred to as conversion training and provides a great essential to the specific brand. While the application of nail enhancement products may be comparable, each brand will have a specific method of preparing the nail, as well as different application techniques and curing times etc.” Oosthuizen notes that gaining knowledge in the anatomy of the natural nail, as well as hygiene, chemistry and the accurate preparation of the natural nail, form the basis of any Nail Enhancement Course. “The importance of education cannot be understated when it comes to the safety of clients and nail technicians. When any form of training is completed, whether it is conversion training, foundation training, or even advanced sculpting training, an extra amount of knowledge will be imparted and can only improve your techniques,” she concludes. PB
Enhancement services Depending on the client’s nails and requirements they can choose from any of the following: Natural nail overlays – an overlay of product in any one of the two systems is applied over the client’s own naturally long nails to provide strength and can be applied in various different colour combinations.
Tip overlays – a tip is applied to short nails for length; the tip gives shape and form and acts as a canvas for the product application. This is a perfect way to stop nail-biters from biting their nails and also to give them some length to encourage them to grow their own nails.
Sculptured enhancements – this Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
service is not as well practised as it should be. A form is used to extend the product beyond the free edge of the natural nail. This is an ideal way for clients to enhance their own nails. Not only does it eliminate the use of extra products such as tips, it is a much quicker service to apply once it has been mastered.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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To know more about these qualifications, how to recognise prior learning and become a City & Guilds Approved Centre, email info@cityandguilds.co.za or telephone 011 544 4660
hair news
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Best hair days The Professional Hair Expo, which ran from 31 August to 1 September at Gallagher Convention Centre, featured a large number of exhibitors and attracted thousands of visitors.
The winners in the categories were:
A
part from the non-stop business meetings and booming retail sales that characterised the Professional Hair Expo, a wide array of dazzling hairstyles was on view at the South African National Hairdressing Championship. The EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology & Beauty) has been organising the South African National Hairdressing Championships for more than 40 years. Says Choert Maartens, divisional manager of the EOHCB’s Southern Gauteng Division: “This competition is the only one of its kind in South Africa, and the industry is hungry for competitions to show off its creative side. We cater for everybody in the industry, from first-year students, to afro, to the most senior stylists. “Students/learners look forward to the competition every year and we always have a full competition floor for the first-year student categories. Some of the colleges actually make participation in the competition part of the first-year curriculum.” Maartens notes that the overall winner of the championship, India Choo, will be trained to compete internationally with Dennis Randal and Clinton Van Rooyen. This year there were 25 judges in total for the championships. All judges had to attend a jury seminar and were appointed from there. Sponsors for this year’s competition were Hairtalk, Wahl, Bhave, Ruutos Hair, Hannon and Twincare International. As overall winner, India Choo won a pair of scissors from Mizutani Scissors to the value of R10 000. PB
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1st Year – Ladies Consumer Fashion Day Style Blow-Dry: Nikola Markovic (Carlton Academy) Junior Ladies – Fashionable Cut, Colour & Style: India Choo (Dave & Johan) Junior Gents – Cut, Colour & Style: India Choo (Dave & Johan) Wahl Clipper – Ladies Clipper Cut: Shawn Odendaal (Paul James Hairdressing) Afro – Fashionable Cut & Style: Thabiso Langa (Tress Nature) Open Bridal – Caucasion & Afro: Chrislene Havenga (Dave & Johan) & Doctor Sithole (Dr’s Hair Salon) Wahl Clipper Gents Silver Blades Award: Ashley Clark (Paul James Hairdressing) Open Gents High Fashion – Total Look: Damian Valjeaux (Jeauval Hair Salon) & Shawn Odendaal (Paul James Hairdressing) Senior Gents – Cut, Colour & Style: India Choo (Dave & Johan) Senior Ladies – Fashionable Cut, Colour & Style: India Choo (Dave & Johan) Wahl – Wild Style Clipper Cut: Shawn Odendaal (Paul James Hairdressing) Open Dreadlocks & Braiding: Tumelo Mpholo (Hairvolution) Avant Garde – Open to All: Chanel Smit (Paul James Hairdressing) Wahl – Silver Blades Award Ladies Clipper Cut: Shawn Odendaal (Paul James Hairdressing) Ladies Total Look: Lazaros Sumbane (Khaya Hair Growing Motions Academy)
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
medical aesthetics
72
TCA
the truth TCA peels have been around for more than 20 years and were the preferred chemical peel ingredient before the successful launch of AHA (alpha hydroxyl acids) and BHA (beta hydroxyl acids) in the early 1990s, writes Karen Ellithorne.
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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medical aesthetics
73 TCA peels are still used very successfully by aesthetic practitioners for patients who are suffering from sun-damaged skin. This type of peel can also be useful in treating melasma, if used in conjunction with prescription creams, or cosmeceutical creams that are formulated specifically for this condition.
What Is TCA?. TCA or trichloroacetic acid is a relative of vinegar (acetic acid) and is a non-toxic chemical peel. When applying a TCA peel it is important to ensure that the application is even. Typically post application a burning sensation is felt by the customer that lasts for a few minutes, so it is useful to use a hand-held fan to ease your customer’s discomfort. When TCA is applied to the surface of the skin it causes the top layers of the skin to dehydrate and dry up. Two to three days after the treatment, the skin begins to peel. This peeling action can continue over a period of several days and can continue for up to a week, depending on the depth of the peel. Once the process is completed the skin appears more uniform, with a more refined texture. TCA peels can be done at different depths, from superficial to deep. However, most doctors are using laser technology instead of deep TCA peels due to the precision of modernday lasers, but superficial to medium-depth peels are still in use. For best results superficial TCA peels are usually done in a series of two or three. This is a similar application to fruit acid peels. Medium-depth TCA peels are usually done once or twice a year and do require some downtime – usually about a week – when the peeling is obvious and it is very difficult to wear make-up. It is important to note that TCA peels are layer-dependent and not time-dependent like AHA and BHA peels. The more layers that are applied and the degree of frosting that is achieved will account for the depth of the peel.
Benefits of TCA peels. TCA up to a 10% concentration is very safe to use for most skin types, but with higher percentages one needs to take into consideration other factors, like skin type, colour and the ability to heal. The best results are generally achieved on acne, scarring, sunspots, hormonal pigmentation, sundamaged and thickened skin, dry and ageing skin and also oily skin with enlarged pores. DermaFix MD Ursula Hunt says that TCA peels are a very cost-effective treatment to offer in an aesthetic clinic. In her experience she has noted that the greatest improvements post-TCA peel are visible on fine lines, skin discolouration and texture.
Unique formulations. Environ is the only cosmetic company that supplies TCA in a slow-drying gel and cream form that does not create intense heat and discomfort when applied. It is Environ’s preference to rather perform a series of light, cool, peels instead of deeper peels. “Our peels are easily modified by either changing the strength of the acid or leaving the peel on the skin for longer. Depending on the peeling protocol followed, the customer may experience anything from micro-level flaking to more noticeable peeling,” says Sole Joubert, Global Brand Training Development Executive for Environ. R
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Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
medical aesthetics
74
serums that are applied onto the patient’s skin immediately after the application of the peel. These products include active ingredients that help control inflammation in the skin and prevent the formation of PIH. An increase in melanin production is entirely dependent on UV exposure. It is this exposure that sets off the chain reaction that is responsible for the development of hyperpigmentation and ageing in the epidermis. Hunt insists that a daily application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen is vital pre-peel, and should be reintroduced to the skin from day one post-peel. Du Preez agrees and says the most important product to be used post-peeling is sunscreen, and clients should be advised not to spend time in the sun after peeling.
What areas can be treated?.
TCA can be used to treat the face, neck, chest, back, arms and legs. It would be more cost-effective than laser when treating a larger area of the body. but it is important to take into consideration that the body heals differently to the face and the desired results may not be as predictable.
When will results be seen?. Hunt says that TCA peels are known to be shedding peels. “The skin may initially darken, feel tight and sensitivity may be present,” she continues. “Improvement is noted once the shedding phase is complete and includes a smoother skin texture and a brighter, more even, skin tone.” Lauren Du Preez, an Environ product specialist, says that a patient would require more than one peel to see results if a milder peel formulation is used. She notes that TCA peels conducted at safe levels won’t always create excessive flaking if done mildly, however a heavier peeling could result in flaking. So the results would vary, depending on the area treated and the damage on the skin.
.How do you control PIH?. Most peeling treatments that are performed on the skin can run the risk of causing PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). So it is a good idea to prepare the skin prior to treatment with a pigment-balancing product to help to control the melanin production. The most effective way to avoid PIH is to incorporate a home-care routine pre-peel to assist with melanocyte suppression, agrees Hunt. She suggests the use of the DermaFix MelanoDerm or DermaFix MD Prescriptives SkinLite. These pre-peel treatments should be incorporated at least 28 days prior to the peel application. Some TCA peeling brands offer treatment creams or
DermaFix TCA Peel before and after - 1 week apart
Post-peel skincare. The skin should be cleansed twice daily with a gentle cleanser. This should be followed by the application of a thick, barrier moisturiser to keep the skin comfortable. It is expected that the patient will need to increase the use of a moisturiser after the treatments, as the skin will, temporarily, be drier. It is suggested that only mineral make-up should be applied when the skin is healing. Patients must avoid all sun exposure for between two and eight weeks. Du Preez advises the customers not to peel the skin again if there is still peeling or flaking present from a previous session and to avoid granular exfoliations at home until the skin has completely healed. She also suggests not using products with AHAs post-treatment as this will continue to aggravate the injured skin. Hunt agrees that post-peel the main focus should be to eliminate inflammation and sun exposure through the correct product application. The client can resume normal use of products once the majority of the shedding has taken place. A follow-up enzymatic facial can be done a week postpeel, which allows time for the therapist to reassess the skin, concludes Hunt. PB
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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product news
76
Our round-up of newly launched products and innovations.
Versatile cream
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In the market
Sister Jenny’s Multi-Purpose Cream, a Jen-Til Touch product, assists in the healing of dry skin, wounds, burns, sunburn, cuts, cracked heels, scars, chilblains and sores. Ingredients include emulsifying wax, coconut and tea tree oil. The cream has been dermatologically tested at Medunsa as a non-irritant.
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Exuviance OptiLight Daily Prep is a unique multi-benefit product formulated to purify, brighten and prepare the skin for maximum efficacy from the Exuviance OptiLight Serum and OptiLight Tone Corrector skin-brightening regimen. Active science and proven botanical ingredients work in combination for best results.
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Doctor Babor has created the Ultimate AHA Skin Peel Kit, which uses a course of fruit acid treatments to restore the skin’s natural, flawless glow. Six applications, perfectly calibrated to go together and packed in a handy singleuse dose, are combined with skincare products that contain everything needed for more beautiful skin in just 21 days. 27 11 467 0110
Nail perfect
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All-in-one kit
Young Nails SA has launched Caption polish formulated with LacQ3, which delivers a flawless air cured gellike manicure with unrivalled shine, superior durability and instant hasslefree removal. LacQ3 combines an innovative triple-layer fusion of dual polymer technology, volcanic glass, shellac and plant-derived plasticisers.
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Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
Cape committee raises funds for educational development The Cape Regional Committee hosts numerous fund-raising events each year, one of which is its annual breakfast, which was held at the beautiful Bloemendal Wine Farm in Durbanville on 17 September.
I
lse Roux, founder and head designer of Ilse Roux Bridal Wear, was guest speaker at the event. She offered interesting guidelines and tips on how to choose your perfect dress when taking body shape, waistline, neckline and many more factors into consideration. Attendees purchased tickets for this event so as to help the committee raise funds toward the betterment of the industry through educational development.
Meanwhile, the committee was delighted with the outcome of the recent Annual General Meeting and the Women’s Health & Fertility Talk held at Isa Carstens Academy in Stellenbosch. Gynaecologist Dr Johannes van Waart and his psychologist wife, Lizanne, presented a seminar of international standard regarding misconceptions around oral contraceptives and fertility. They revealed many interesting facts about women’s health.
Dermatech Annual Project Runway 2014 Dermatech Health & Skincare Training Institute held its annual Project Runway, Hair Extravaganza and Miss Dermatech Beauty Pageant on 26 August. The theme of the day was Rio Carnival. During Project Runway, students are divided into three groups who have to design a dress out of mostly recyclable material and also make their own accessories. In the Hair Extravaganza, hairdressing students can create amazing and inventive hairstyles and make-up in their separate groups. Miss Dermatech 2014 was crowned during the Miss Dermatech Pageant.
BTI success in provincial stage of World Skills Competition On 7 September, Sandy Roy Beauty Therapy Institute (BTI) sent three of its second-year students to participate in the first provincial round of a World Skills Competition in the Western Cape. Thirty-one therapists took part in the competition, which involved the completion of a facial, body massage and manicure. One of the BTI girls, Courtney Kerr, came 2nd. Kerr will go on to compete in the national competition next year in Johannesburg. The winner of this round will then go to Brazil to compete internationally against many other health and skincare colleges around the world. “We are so proud of Courtney and all our girls who competed. It was not an easy competition. However, with all their hard work and extra hours of training in perfecting their skills, they far exceeded everybody’s expectations,” says BTI. A huge thank you goes to BTI’s second-year educator, Chaand Barendse, who volunteered to be the Beauty Therapy Institute representative for the competition. Barendse coached the girls and helped them to perfect their quality of treatments for the standard that was required for the competition.
Courtney Kerr
Professional Beauty Oct/Nov 2014
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Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Lucy Langa Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: lucy@probeauty.co.za
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September 2013
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