Pakistan Textile Journal, May 2021

Calendar of Events

Heimtextil 2022 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2021

Home Textiles Sourcing Exp

Dates: June 12th to 16th, 2021.

Dates: July 20th to 22nd 2021.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: New York

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics - Autumn Edition Cinte Techtextil China International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Dates: Aug 25th to 27th 2021.

Dates: January 11th to 14th 2022.

Venue: Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

DOMOTEX Hannover 2022 Dates: January 13th to 16th 2022.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

Venue: Shanghai China.

Dates: June 22nd to 24th 2021 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

IGATEX Pakistan 2021, Lahore

Istanbul Yarn Fair

Dates: September 15th to 18st 2021.

Dates: February 22nd to 26th 2022.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn Dates: July 5th to 9th 2021.

Index 2021

FILTECH 2022

Venue: Paris

Dates: September 7th to 10th, 2021.

Dates: March 8th to 10th, 2022

Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland

Venue: Cologne, Germany.

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2021

FESPA 2021

Dates: July 7th to 9th 2021.

Dates: October 12th to 15th 2021.

ITM 2022

Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Venue: Amsterdam.

Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn

Textile Asia 2021, Lahore

Dates: July 5th to 9th 2021.

Dates: October 22th to 24th 2021.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Venue: Paris

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022.

Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

ITMA 2023 Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023.

Venue: Milan, Italy.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXX No. 05 May 2021

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar

Rs. 450.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Germany has been a support for Pakistan’s textile industry for 70 years

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

Hony-Editorial Board Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 CORPORATE NEWS Digitisation at SMEs: Circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie.: A best practice example of PLM strategy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Rieter Annual General Meeting 2021 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Eastman launches Naia™ Renew staple fiber for casual wear, loungewear . . . . .20

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Mian Iftkhar Afzal B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: PTJ Europe Ltd. 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721 Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi.

Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

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FEATURES U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and TextileGenesis™ Announce Collaboration . . . . . . . .22 Jeanologia launches Handman, the future of textile manufacturing . . . . . . . . . . .24 TITAN Forte – Bräcker Spinning Ring for Maximum Coarse Yarn Production . . . . . .26

INTERVIEW “Pakistan is one the most important markets for Asia Pacific Rayon” . . . . . . . .28 Mr. Sachin Malik : Head of Global Sales and Mr. Tapan Kumar : VP BD AND Marketing

Sateri to Acquire Funing Aoyang’s Viscose Fibre Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

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FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS Texworld Evolution Paris - Le Showroom returns from July 5th to 9th 2021 . . . . . . . .34 FESPA GLOBAL PRINT EXPO, October 2021: ‘Brinting Color Back’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Fresh-up for DOMOTEX 2022 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

DYES AND CHEMICALS Doing our part in the fight against Covid-19: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

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SPECIAL REPORT Major innovations by Uster ready to go live . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 ITMA Asia + CITME 2021 exhibition will see Uster product launches

GERMAN REVIEW Pakistan – Germany Bilateral Relations: 70 years of cooperation . . . . . . . . . . .42 German textile industry looking for future “Perspectives 2035” study . . . . . . .46

by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Associate Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal.

Monforts: After almost 30 years with the company, Monforts Vice-President Klaus Heinrichs is to retire at the end of May. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

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DiloGroup – ITMA Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Brückner: Long-lasting antimicrobial textile finishing reduces infections and environmental impact . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Mayer & Cie. extends top dog status in Turkey: above average market share, further on the increase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Microwave control for magnetic coating by Monforts and Pleva . . . . . . . . . . . .56 BB Engineering: Visco+ – innovative vacuum filter for IV setting . . . . . . . . . . .57 Erhardt+Leimer: A new metal detector with even higher accuracy . . . . . . . . . .58 Groz-Beckert: WarpMasterPlus –The new generation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 A breakthrough for break drafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Oerlikon: Clean Technology. Smart Factory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

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EDITOR’S PAGE

Germany has been a support for Pakistan’s textile industry for 70 years Germany has been a prominent trading partner of Pakistan and has always extended its support for the betterment of the country in both commercial and social sectors. This year Pakistan and Germany complete 70 years of cooperation marking the establishment of diplomatic and trade relations between the two countries.

Germany is Pakistan's largest trading partner within the European Union, accounting for 20% of Pakistan's total exports to the EU and 21% of Pakistan's total imports from the EU. Germany has always extended its support for the betterment of the country in both commercial and social sectors. German has supported the Pakistani efforts to get greater access to EU markets including the approved Pakistan specific autonomous trade preferences. In the year 2019 -20 the bilateral trade with Pakistan stood at US$ 2.25 billion. German exports to Pakistan amounted to US$ 949 million and German imports from Pakistan US$ 1.30 billion.

Established 1951 May 2021

German Review

May 2021

Pakistan’s textile industry owes a great deal to the innovative technological solutions provided by German textile machinery suppliers over the last 70 years.

Several German companies have been instrumental in laying down the foundation of Pakistan’s textile industry. From spinning, weaving, finishing and knit- ting to textile chemicals and accessories, German textile machinery manufacturers have left their mark on our textile industry. From the archives of Pakistan Textile Journal we can determine a clear timeline of the German Pakistan relations in this vital economic sector of Pakistan.

Schlafhorst, Suessen, Truetzschler, Zinser are the brands that Pakistan’s industry embraced in the spinning sector, while in the weaving sector technology companies such as Dornier made their mark. In the development of textile finishing sector several names such as Monforts, Osthoff-Senge, Goller, Brueckner, Thies and Andritz are most active and very well respected in Pakistan.

Groz Beckert, Mayer & Cie, Stoll and Karl Mayer are well known in the field of knitting technology. All of these companies have strong commitment to Pakistan and serve this market through extensive after sales support.

German companies such as Bayer, BASF (now Archroma), CHT, DyStar and many more have been reliable suppliers of quality chemicals and auxiliaries to Pakistan’s textile finishing industry over the decades. Increasing requirements for production of sustainable and eco friendly textiles have made the role of chemical suppliers even more vital. These companies not only provide the most suitable chemicals but also constantly educate our textile industry in techniques to achieve sustainable and profitable production.

Pakistan Textile Journal has been the primary medium for these companies to address the fast evolving textile industry of Pakistan over last 70 years. Some of our earliest advertisers from Germany are still with us through advertising as well as editorials in our publication. Some of the earliest advertisements of German textile machinery which appeared in our publication are reproduced on this page for the interest of our readers.

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Textile Briefs National

The textile industry in Pakistan imported 624,945 tonnes of raw cotton between July to March against 338,244 tonnes last year an increase of 84.76 percent. The import of synthetic fibre grew by 52.29 percent to 346,254 tonnes as against 227,365 tonnes last year. The import of synthetic and artificial silk yarn stood at 316,656 metric tons this year vs 210,810 metric tons last years an increase of 50.21pc.

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Pakistan has decided to import cotton from the Central Asian states through the Torkham border.

The Ministry of Commerce has sought the ECC’s approval to import cotton from Afghanistan and

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Central Asian states, including Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. The Economic Coordination Committee will take up the MoC’s summary on cotton import.

Pakistan’s exports of textile and clothing posted a growth of 30.4 per cent from a year ago. The export value of these sectors edged up to $1.355 billion in March from $1.039 bn over the corresponding month of last year. Growth in exports of value-added sectors contributed to an increase in overall exports from the sectors.

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The cotton yield fell to nine maund per acre during the season ended with just 5.5 million bales, almost one third of the

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production we achieved with 14.8 m bales a few years ago. The Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) strongly opposed cotton imports from India, maintaining that the move would discourage local growers from sowing this cash crop.

National Food Security and Research Minister Syed Fakhar Imam said that cotton growers would soon be given special incentives by the federal and provincial governments in the form of cotton-specific subsidies. He said that Punjab Seed Council has introduced 17 new varieties, including a double-gene variety, whereas Sindh has introduced three new varieties.

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The fortnightly report of the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association shows that 72,000 bales of cotton were sold to exporters. During the past three months, cotton yarn 30/1 prices have been increased by 15%. In the last six months, the dollar has also depreciated against the Pak rupee by 5.58% down from Rs 166.5 to Rs 157.2.

Exporters previously had negotiated and finalized their export orders at a dollar rate of Rs 166.5.

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The garment industry wants early approval of textile policy 2020-25

by ECC as it is vital for new investment and marketing plan in this major export-oriented sector. 

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Textile Briefs International

During the July-January period of the current fiscal year 2020-21, Bangladesh earned US$ 639 million, up by 44.34% compared to US$ 443 million in the same period of last fiscal year. In the FY20, the sector brought US$ 759 million home. On the other hand, exports earnings from the RMG sector fell 3.44% to US$ 18.40 billion during JulyJanuary of the FY21, which was US$ 19 billion in the same period of last year.

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Chinas textile machinery sector growth slows down as pandemic continues. China is still facing pressures due to the pandemic and demand for textile machinery is still low. From January to September 2020, the total cost of textile

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

machinery enterprises above the designated size was down 15.7% to 43.77 billion yuan compared to the same period last year.

Finland is leading the revolution towards sustainable materials and business models in the global textile business. Responding to the growing issues of textile waste, new textile recycling regulations will come into force in the EU in 2025.

However, Finland aims to start the process already by 2023.

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The United States of America imported home textile products from Bangladesh worth US$ 156 million, the highest, followed by Germany US$ 8.5 million, India US$ 60 million, United Kingdom US$ 58 mil-

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lion and Canada US $48 million.

The CAI Crop Committee from India has estimated the total cotton supply till the end of the CY 2020-21 at 49.7 million bales of 170 kg each.

The domestic consumption is now estimated at 33 million bales of 170 kg each which is at the same level as estimated previously.

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India's cotton textile industry is experiencing a boom after more than a decade. The price per kilogram (kg) of woven cotton yarn increased from Rs 193.81 in August last year to Rs 267 in January this year showing a 37.7%rise.

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Turkey’s technical textile exports increases by 76% to US$ 3 billion in

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2020, whereas the medical textile export rises US$ 1.40 billion in 2020, said Aegean Exporters Association (EIB) of the country.

Amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the British government has announced GBP 830 million boost to high streets fashion brands to help them recover from the pandemic.

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Vietnam’s textile and garment industry are eyeing US$39 billion export revenue in 2021. The country’s textile and garment exports were worth US$ 35 billion in 2020. Despite the pandemic and given global demand drop, the 22% export growth was extraordinary.

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Pakistan, China partner for boosting the textile sector Pakistan and China have launched a critical partnership for the promotion of business alliances and sectoral matchmaking between private enterprises of textile sectors in the two countries.

The Board of Investment (BoI) has recently organized a “CPEC Industrial Cooperation Textile Business to Business (B2B) Webinar” in collaboration with China Council for International Investment Promotion (CCIIP) and China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC).

The webinar offered a platform for analysis of industry trends, bilateral investment opportunities, and potential collaboration between companies of the two countries.

Speaking on the occasion, BoI Secretary Fareena Mazhar said the webinar aimed to rejuvenate the process of enhanced Mrs. Fareena B2B matchmaking Mazhar, Federal between Pakistani Secretary, Board of and Chinese Investment (BOI), enterprises. She appreciated the overwhelming support of CNTAC and the Chinese ministry of commerce. Owing to the sector’s

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

financial gains many international companies, including Chinese enterprises, are already operational in the country.

The Minister asks textile houses to consolidate fragmented businesses

Asim Saleem Bajwa;

She disclosed Authority Chairman Lt. Gen. (Retd) that Challenge Apparel, a Chinese company, has been successfully operating in Pakistan for years, and now it plans to expand with an additional investment of over $150 million. The BoI official invited export-oriented hi-tech Chinese enterprises to make investments in Pakistan.

She informed the private sector enterprises about Pakistan’s advantageous investment policies about SEZs, electric vehicles, cellular device manufacturing policy and emphasized Pakistan’s commitment to facilitate B2B matchmaking. Ms. Mazhar underscored that ‘CPEC Industrial Cooperation’ follows an all-inclusive policy and is open for third-party participation.

BoI Project Director Asim Ayub informed the meeting that the Textile Diagnostic Study on Pakistan’s Textile Sector in 2019 was very well received by the Pakistani side. However, there exists a need for a follow-up action plan.

Minister for Finance and Revenue Shaukat Tarin asked the textile houses to consolidate their fragmented business and promote value-added exports on a competitive basis internationally. Tarin met foreign investors and textile industrialists in separate meetings and expressed a commitment to targeted incentives to drive export-led inclusive growth.

“Government is firmly committed to providing incentives to the business community which Mr. Shaukat Tarin chaired; Federal is targeted and Minister for Finance sustainable in the and Revenu long-run,” he said during a meeting with the representatives of Overseas Investment Chamber of Commerce and Industry and Pakistan Business Council.

“The end goal is to achieve an allinclusive sustainable economic growth which leads to industrialization, employment generation, export-led growth, and import substitution.”

A pan-industry advisory group PBC recently advised the government to bring

energy tariffs down for industries, provide low-cost financing, tax rationalization, and infrastructure uplift to curb deindustrialization.

Later, a delegation of the Pakistan Textile Exporters Association called on the finance minister who reiterated the commitment of the government to facilitate the textile sector for enhancing value-added exports. He stressed the need for consolidating fragmented businesses and promoting value-added exports on a competitive basis internationally.

“Government believes in building a strong partnership with businessmen, traders, and exporters for evolving a roadmap through the consultative process for a sustained and robust export-led growth, he said.

The finance minister affirmed full support and cooperation on the occasion. The minister during a virtual meeting with a delegation of the Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce and Industry said the government is adhering to strict financial discipline for achieving macro-economic stability and enhancing revenue generation.

“Pakistan’s economy is showing signs of recovery amid coronavirus pandemic, with construction and manufacturing sectors in lead. However, the third wave of COVID-19 is particularly challenging,” he added.

Tarin also stressed the role of chambers of commerce and industry as a bridge between the government and the traders for active coordination.

APTMA requests govt. to continue the tariff policy as the textile sector grows The Patron-in-Chief All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) Mr. Gohar Ejaz has requested the government for continuation of Regionally Competitive Tariffs of $ 6.5 / Metric Million British Thermal Unit (MMBtu) of Gas/RLNG and 7.5 cents / kWh of Electricity. On this request Imran Khan’s government reposed its confidence in the Textile Industry, providing the government’s complete support.

As a result, Pakistan’s Textile Exports foresees to increase considerably i.e., $16.5 Billion during FY21 in comparison to the exports in FY18 which were $13.5 billion and will continue to grow up to $20Bn in June 2022. Making a total of $27 billion in exports in June 2021 and $30 billion in June 2022.

Regionally Competitive Energy Tariffs policy proposed by the Pakistan Institute of Development Economics (PIDE) has played a vital role in the current year’s exports and is critical to sustaining enhanced exports, employment, and bring in new investment.

The textile industry has capitalized on the given incentives to help the government achieve the ultimate aim of export maximization, job creation, and the realization of economic prosperity.

Pakistan’s export industries (including textiles) witnessed an exceptional growth of 9% in 9 months of

News & Views Fiscal Year 2021. The increase in export demonstrates the competitiveness of Pakistan’s exports, when inputs are provided at regionally competitive prices, exports were achieved despite an unfavorable international environment.

The industrial electricity tariff of other textile exporting countries is much lower than Pakistan making us uncompetitive in the increasing market competition. The objective of the Pakistani textile industry to become an export “powerhouse” cannot be achieved until power tariffs are revised to a competitive and stable level.

Industry fears that the Power Sector will not be able to deliver on a sustained stable and competitive basis which will negatively impact market sentiments.

Competition is the key principle for the development and expansion of the industrial market.

Textile exports rally continue The textile exports of Pakistan are experiencing and expecting a second external surge. The first one was when the first wave of the pandemic resulted in lockdowns across countries including key textile exporters like India and Bangladesh. Orders were diverted and poured into Pakistan’s textile industry.

And now when it was being anticipated that strengthening and reopening of global markets from lockdown and ensuing vaccination drives in countries including Bangladesh and India would be key factors in restricting export growth in the textile segment, the new and deadly wave of covid-19 in India along with a decline in textile exports from China are expected to give Pakistan’s textile exports another boost.

Exports of the textile sector as per the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS) were seen climbing by over 30 percent yearon-year in March-21, while there has also been a recovery on a month-on-month basis where textile exports increased by 9.8 percent. Where part of the growth is attributable to export growth in the value-added segment, it was also due to a contrasting performance in March-2021 versus a weak base of March-20 when the country went into its first real lockdown amid rising first-wave covid cases.

As per PBS data, textile export 9MFY21 were up by a little over 9

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percent year on year. Much of the growth in textile exports in March-21 as well 9MFY21 is attributable to the growth witnessed in the value-added segment particularly knitwear, bedwear, and home textile (all recording staggering doubledigit growth year-on-year). Readymade garments - though a key value-added product – continued their relatively slowpaced (23% YoY) growth in March-21 and 9MFY21 as changing global dynamics amid the pandemic has pushed the demand for home textiles much higher than garments.

Export of cotton yarn also continued to see a spike for a second month in FY21 (up by 39% YoY in March-21), which was despite a shortage of yarn in the country and the textile companies crying for duty-free import of yarn.

The month-on-month trend shows that the export growth was led by nonvalue-added segments such as cotton cloth (23% MoM). And a key reason for that as highlighted by a research note by AKD Securities is extra efforts by the local manufacturers to capture US textile imports from China after order cancellation from Xinjiang (that accounts for 0 percent of Chinese output) due to human rights violation.

But let’s not get too optimistic about exports just yet. Like India, Covid cases in Pakistan are also surging rapidly with much more restrictions and lockdowns in place and expected in the coming weeks – which could sweep away benefits and also result in a decline in exports in the coming months.

PRGMEA urges govt to control the increase in freight charges As the shipping companies have increased their freight charges by 700 percent after the reopening of global trade amidst Covid-19, the Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association (PRGMEA) has appealed to the government to intervene so that exports growth could be sustained.

PRGMEA Central Chairman Sohail A Sheikh, in a letter sent to Federal Minister for Maritime Affairs Ali Zaidi, appealed to Mr. Sohail Afzal him to control the Sheikh; PRGMEA situation, asking Central Chairman the international shipping lines to rationalize the cost of containerized cargo, as it has offset the positive impact of incentives provided by the government.

Sohail Sheikh pointed out that both regional, as well as international shipping lines, seemed to have formed a cartel to impose exorbitantly high freight charges in a bid to cash in on the post-Covid situation. He said that Pakistan’s importers and exporters pay to ship companies at Mr. Ali Haider Zaidi; Federal Minister for least 5 billion Maritime Affai dollars annually in

News & Views international freight charges. He said that the jump in international freight charges had increased the cost of doing business in Pakistan and apparel exporters could not remain competitive in the international market if the government did not interfere.

He said that freight charges for cargo in a 20-feet container arriving from China to Pakistan have presently increased to around $3,000 from almost $600 of preCovid time on the plea of high growth even though lockdowns have been ended for a long time and now there is routine traffic of vessels. He said that freight charges have surged abnormally and the export industry has never seen such a huge jump in rates over the past 50 years across the world.

It seems that Covid-19 has provided an opportunity for international shipping companies to increase freight charges.

“We know that government is not responsible for the situation in international trade. And it is also a fact there was no short-term solution for the government. However, in the long run, it should enhance the number of shipping

companies in Pakistan, so that it could intervene.

Unfortunately, the Pakistan National Shipping Corporation (PNSC) doesn’t have sufficient capacity to fill the space, proposing it to acquire containerized ships on lease to facilitate the exporters, as this strategy could help the government keep freight cost in control

and making textile exports competitive in the global market.

PRGMEA Central chairman said that Pakistan mostly imports cargoes through the Far Eastern countries like Thailand, China, Hong Kong, and Singapore, and send export to the EU, the USA, and the Middle East.

AUSTRALIA Achmea to support Australian cotton growers for sustainable farming Cotton Australia and farm insurer Achmea Australia have announced a new strategic alliance that recognizes cotton growers’ contribution to a sustainable future for the Australian cotton industry.

The new alliance will support cotton growers through an insurance reward for those who are certified through the Best Management Practices program (myBMP).

Cotton Australia’s voluntary farm and environmental management program myBMP has resulted in widespread interest from across the cotton industry through providing tools for cotton farmers to develop safer farm workplaces and healthier natural environments, reduce input costs, keep pesticide use to a minimum, maximize water use efficiency, and protect and retain native animals and vegetation.

"The Australian cotton industry is well placed to take advantage of the demand for sustainably produced cotton through its focus on best practice and

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sustainability," Achmea said on its website.

health and safety initiatives, thereby protecting their livelihoods,” she added.

Cotton Australia CEO Adam Kay said the new alliance provides a positive incentive for growers. “This new strategic alliance with Achmea recognizes sustainable risk mitigation practices and this will result in an insurance reward for cotton farmers who are fully certified in the myBMP program and are Achmea clients.”

The insurance reward is a premium discount offered by Achmea for its All-inOne Farm Pack to eligible cotton farmers who are certified through the myBMP program.

“By attaining certification in the myBMP program, growers can have confidence they are operating at the highest level and contributing to a more sustainable and resilient Australian cotton industry,” Kay said.

Big apparel brands still need millions of Bangladesh's factory workers

Achmea CEO Emma Thomas said Achmea and Cotton Australia have a shared interest in helping cotton farmers to succeed.

“With a vision to protect and enhance agricultural communities, we see enormous value in working alongside the cotton industry to promote the importance of risk awareness and loss mitigation measures,” Thomas said.

“Aligned with our purpose of keeping farmers farming, we are proud to support myBMP-certified growers because they are best practice-certified in workplace

BANGLADESH

Bangladesh is deep into its second month of a coronavirus lockdown that has shuttered schools, public transportation, and most workplaces. But thanks to lobbying by the country’s garment manufacturers, millions of factory workers are still on the job every day — even though many have complained of pay cuts, late wages, and inadequate Covid protections.

Eight years after the notorious collapse of the Rana Plaza apparel manufacturing complex, which killed more than 1,100 people, Bangladesh’s garment industry was supposed to be

Around the World doing better. Following the incident, global apparel brands entered into safety agreements with local factories that made real progress. The only problem is that one accord expired in 2018 and the other is expected to end on May 31.

That timing couldn’t be worse. With factories struggling to stay afloat because of falling apparel demand, and the government able to offer only limited support, garment workers are already shouldering significant economic uncertainty. Without help from the global brands and retailers that sell their handiwork, these workers could well lose the hard-earned health and safety improvements that the agreements guaranteed — and face the risk of another disaster.

Bangladesh’s garment-export economy is something of a modern miracle. In 1978, the country was primarily agricultural; its garment industry amounted to nine factories and about $1 million in export revenue. Over the next 30 years, a combination of savvy entrepreneurship, favorable trade agreements, and cost-conscious foreign retailers proved transformative.

By 2020, annual garment exports were worth $33.6 billion, the country was home to more than 4,000 factories, and the industry employed some 4.4 million workers.

Underlying this success, however, were some ugly realities. At the time of the Rana Plaza collapse, the entry-level minimum wage was less than $40 a month, and workplaces were notoriously

dangerous. In the eight years before the incident, more than 1,000 garment workers had been killed on the job. None of that seemed to make Bangladesh any less attractive to global apparel brands.

Rana Plaza which supplied clothes for top European brands such as Benetton changed everything. Consumers who had never questioned why their clothing prices declined steadily over the decades were forced to think twice.

The apparel industry, fearing a consumer revolt, rushed to find a fix.

What it settled on were two agreements that set the terms for inspecting, repairing, and upgrading factories to reasonable safety standards.

The most successful was the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh,

an agreement between unions and brands — although not factories — in which each side held equal seats in a governance body.

It required that brands assess whether their suppliers’ factories meet health and safety standards, and make funds are available for any needed improvements (and for worker pay, if furloughs are required). Over its first five years, this arrangement produced more than 100,000 safety improvements in 1,500 factories.

As remarkable as that record was, though, the accord was only ever meant to be temporary. Exactly what should replace it has proved contentious. Hoping to create a sustainable system, both sides agreed last year to establish a new governance structure that included factory representatives, as well as a nonprofit to manage inspections and remediation.

CHINA China's textile sector sees steady expansion China's textile industry saw steady expansion in the first three months of the year, data from the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT) showed.

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Around the World The added value of textile firms with annual operating revenue of at least 20 million yuan ($3.09 million) rose by 20.3 percent year-on-year, according to the MIIT. The firms raked in 43.4 billion yuan worth of profits, surging by 93 percent from the same period last year. Their combined operating revenue expanded by 26.9 percent year-on-year to about 1.05 trillion yuan.

China's online retail sales of clothing products registered a year-on-year growth of 39.6 percent between January and March. Garment exports totaled $33.3 billion during the period, up by 47.7 percent year-on-year.

JAPAN Japan's clothing industry emits 95 million tons of carbon dioxide a year, estimate shows Emissions from clothing sold in Japan total over 95 million tons of carbon dioxide a year, with most of that total resulting from the manufacturing process overseas, a government estimate has shown.

The process of manufacturing and transporting clothes is estimated to produce 90.09 million tons of carbon dioxide, or 94.6% of the total, according to the Environment Ministry. Of the

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819,000 tons of garments supplied to the Japanese market in 2020, 799,000 tons, or about 98%, were imported from overseas.

The remaining total of about 5 million tons is attributed mostly to the burning of unsold clothes and energy used for laundry. The first such estimate by the government finds that each item of clothing contributes around 25 kilograms of carbon dioxide, the ministry said.

The apparel industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, according to a U.N. Environment Program report. Of the global emissions from the industry, Japanese apparel supply chains account for 4.5%, the Environment Ministry said.

The ministry last month launched a website to call on consumers to recycle more clothes while urging the fashion industry to work on new production processes to reduce carbon emissions.

A total of about 510,000 tons of clothes were disposed of in Japan last year without being recycled or reused, according to the ministry.

Prime Minister Yoshihide Suga in late April revealed a new goal of cutting greenhouse gas emissions by 46% by fiscal 2030 from fiscal 2013 levels during a climate summit hosted by U.S. President Joe Biden.

In line with the new pledge, the ministry now hopes to raise awareness of the environmental impact of the textile

industry, including carbon dioxide emissions and water pollution.

"Through providing the information online, we hope consumers know more about the environmental damage from their clothing items and think about recycling before throwing away," a ministry official said.

TANZANIA Tanzanian govt to support the development of textile & garment industries The Tanzanian government will mobilize the development of the textile and garment industries as it works towards improving the ease of doing business in the country. The ministry of industry and trade is in the process of consulting stakeholders from various industries to review 22 laws and implement regulatory reforms for improving the business environment.

In the budget for the financial year 2021-22 announced last week, the Tanzanian government amended two laws through the Finance Act of 2020 and is in the process of introducing the Trade Remedies Act of 2021 to protect local businesses, control importation of products, and market distortion by subsidized products which come to the local market at lower prices.

The proposed law has already been

Around the World submitted to the government for further action, Tanzanian media reports said quoting industry and trade minister Kitila Mkumbo.

The government of the country is looking to improve the policies and laws to create a conducive business environment. It will also cooperate with businesses to create a market for the local products, Mkumbo said.

Tanzania has also scrapped over 232 taxes, fees, levies to reduce the time and costs for securing licenses and permits to do business in the country, the minister added.

The news comes on the heels of President Samia Suluhu Hassan’s suggestions to ministers and government officials to improve the ease of doing business in Tanzania and amend laws that hindered investments.

UNITED KINGDOM UK textile & footwear online sales grew 10.9% MoM in March 2021 Online spending in the UK increased by 0.6 percent MoM in March 2021, with strong growth in textile, clothing, and footwear stores of 10.9 percent. This was the largest monthly growth in the sector since June 2020 with feedback from retailers suggesting that the upcoming easing of coronavirus restrictions had prompted consumers to update their wardrobes.

The proportion spent online decreased to 34.7 percent in March 2021, down from 36.2 percent in February 2021 but still above the 23.1 percent reported in March 2020, according to the report released by the Office for National Statistics (ONS). The value of online spending did increase in March, but spending in-store increased at a faster rate.

Retail sales volumes continued to recover in March 2021, with an increase of 5.4 percent when compared with the previous month reflecting the effect of the easing of restrictions on consumer spending. Sales were 1.6 percent higher than February 2020 before the impact of the coronavirus pandemic, the report said.

Despite strong March figures, retail sales in the UK for the first quarter have been subdued overall. In the three months to March 2021, retail sales volume fell by 5.8 percent when compared with the previous three months, with strong declines in both clothing stores and other non-food stores as a result of the tighter lockdown restrictions in place.

Total retail sales levels for both the amount spent and quantity bought were lower than pre-pandemic levels in both January and February 2021. However, March marked a return to sales levels higher than those witnessed in February 2020, before the pandemic began, despite continued restrictions to nonessential retail, as per ONS.

VIETNAM Vietnam Textile Industry Wants Covid Priority The worsening pandemic situation in the industrial zones is a big concern for enterprises and their workers, he added.

The number of infected workers was 466, including 369 in the northern province of Bac Giang, according to the Vietnam General Confederation of Labor. Bac Giang yesterday decided to shut down four industrial parks, Van Trung, Quang

Chau, Dinh Tram in Viet Yen District, and Song Khe – Noi Hoang in Yen Dung District.

Nguyen Van Thoi, chairman of apparel manufacturer TNG Investment and Trading JSC, which employs over 16,000 workers in Thai Nguyen Province, said the company has earmarked funds to buy vaccines for its workers and wants the government to connect it with suppliers. It has also strengthened Covid prevention measures by ensuring social distancing in its factory in Thai Nguyen and telling employees coming from the two severely affected provinces of Bac Giang and Bac Ninh to temporarily stay at home.

The chief of a textile firm in Hung Yen Province, who sought anonymity, said the government should accept funding from other sources to buy the vaccines.

Textile and garment exports rose 9% year-on-year to over USD 9.5b in the first four months of 2021, according to the Ministry of Industry and Trade, which attributed the rise to the revival in some main export markets and free trade agreements. Vietnam has nearly 400 industrial parks, 30 border gate economic zones, and 20 coastal economic zones, which employ nearly four million workers.

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Corporate News

Digitisation at SMEs Circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie.: A best practice example of PLM strategy Sebastian Mayer, Chief Digital Officer at circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT), is giving a keynote speech at SAP’s virtual PLM Info Days on May 18 and 19, 2021.

He was invited to speak about Mayer& Cie.’s strategy on Product Lifecycle Management (PLM), which is rated exemplary in both scope and progress of implementation. The premium manufacturer sees the benefits for their customers as the main incentive for its PLM strategy.

Claim to leadership extends beyond machine technology “We see ourselves as a technology leader and innovation driver above and beyond the technology of our machines,” says Sebastian Mayer, Chief Digital Officer at Mayer & Cie. “That includes an efficient and modern product origination process.

The high-grade technological infrastructure is a precondition for the ability to provide adequately for the requirements of the future and our customers.” Sebastian Mayer has been in charge of digitisation at the long- established company since 2017.

Together with his team, he has identified four focus areas for Mayer & Cie.’s digitisation journey: digital manufacturing or a state-of-the-art production process, followed by digital processes and a digital organisation or, in short, user- and customer-friendly processes. Along with the framework conditions in respect of the legal position and security, the company attaches the greatest importance to a digital product and new, digital customer experiences. “PLM lays for us foundations on which we can respond to customer needs faster, more individually and thereby better,” Sebastian Mayer says, adding that “knitters around the world can continue to rely on our claim to leadership.”

Sebastian Mayer is in charge of digitisation at Mayer & Cie.

PLM as the “Digital Backbone” At a mechanical engineering company, the development department plays a key role. It is interwoven and connected with nearly all the other departments, and that is certainly the case at Mayer & Cie. “Whenever there is a change of supplier, a service case or a special machine configuration the development department is always involved,” Sebastian Mayer says.

Enquiries used to make their way to Development on all channels: by telephone, by e-mail or in person. Tasks were hard to channel, let alone to prioritise. That is why the central PLM strategy approach in relation to the product was and still is to map an end-to-end digital process – from the first steps in machine development via product information of each and every kind, configuration options and production information to the service case.

Every department does, after all, have a different perspective on the product that must be put to use meaningfully and holistically. Due to central data organisation and process automation, development and production have above all moved significantly closer to each other. Customers must benefit from the reliable data flow in the web shop for spare parts, for example, by being able to find the right parts more easily. For all the success that has been achieved so far, Sebastian Mayer concludes, there is still some way to go. “The foundation stone has been laid but the target of the philosophy of a digital twin for every machine that our customers have in use is still some way off. But with our PLM strategy we have created the digital

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

Corporate News backbone, and that is the prerequisite for better customer experiences and lean,innovative and modern processes.”

About Mayer & Cie. Mayer & Cie. (MCT) is a leading international manufacturer of circular knitting machines. The company offers the entire range of machines required for making modern textiles. Fabrics for home textiles, sportswear, nightwear and swimwear, seat covers, underwear and technical uses are made on MCT knitting machines. Furthermore, Mayer & Cie. regularly develops new approaches underlining its leadership in technology.

Since 2019, Mayer & Cie. has augmented its portfolio by braiding machines which produce sheathings for hydraulic tubes used in aviation, automotive industry as well as in further, very specific fields of applications. Founded in 1905, Mayer & Cie. generated sales of EUR 72 million in 2020 with about 400 employees worldwide, according to preliminary figures. In addition to its headquarters in Albstadt, Germany, where around 300 people work, and subsidiaries in China and the Czech

Republic, sales partners for circular knitting and braiding machines in around 80 countries represent Mayer & Cie.

Rieter Annual General Meeting 2021  All motions approved  Outlook updated

The Corona Virus also had an impact on the 130th Annual General Meeting (AGM) of Rieter Holding Ltd., Winterthur, on Thursday, April 15, 2021.

Based on Article 27 of Regulation 3 on measures to combat the Corona Virus (COVID-19), the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. decided that shareholders can exercise their voting rights exclusively by authorizing the independent proxy. Shareholders therefore could not attend the Annual General Meeting in person. The AGM was held on the premises of Rieter Holding Ltd. at the company’s headquarters in Winterthur.

At the Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. on April 15, 2021, the independent proxy represented a total of 2 084 shareholders who hold 63.6% of the share capital.

The shareholders approved the proposal of the Board of Directors not to distribute a dividend in view of the negative business result. In addition, they approved the proposed maximum total amounts of the remuneration of the members of the Board of Directors and of the Group Executive Committee for fiscal year 2022.

The Chairman of the Board, Bernhard Jucker, and the members of the Board of Directors This E. Schneider, Hans-Peter Schwald, Peter Spuhler, Roger Baillod, Carl Illi and Luc Tack were confirmed for an additional one-year term of office.

Stefaan Haspeslagh was newly elected to the Board of Directors for a one-year term of office.

Furthermore, This E. Schneider, HansPeter Schwald and Bernhard Jucker, the members of the Remuneration Committee who were standing for election, were also each re-elected for a one-year term of office.

Shareholders also adopted all other motions proposed by the Board of Directors, namely the approval of the annual report, the financial statements and the consolidated financial statements for 2020, and formal approval of the actions of the members of the Board of Directors and those of the Group Executive Committee in the year under review.

Outlook Updated As already communicated at the Results Press Conference on March 9, 2021, Rieter expects the market recovery

to continue in 2021. The company expects an order intake exceeding CHF 500 million in the first half of 2021. For the first half of 2021, Rieter still anticipates that sales will be below breakeven point. For the full year 2021, Rieter expects an operating profit.

About Rieter Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning.

Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and manmade fibers and their blends into yarns.

Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover both spinning preparation processes and all four end spinning processes currently established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines.

With 15 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 420, about 21% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN.

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Eastman launches Naia™ Renew staple fiber for casual wear, loungewear New inherently soft, sustainable, traceable fiber for circular fashion In response to consumer demand for comfortable, sustainable clothing, Eastman launched its Naia™ Renew cellulosic staple fiber in the growing women’s casual wear and loungewear market. Sourced from 60% wood pulp and 40% recycled waste plastics,* it can be produced at scale to deliver sustainability without compromise to the fashion world.

manager for fashion. “Naia™ Renew staple fiber offers sustainable comfort every day, everywhere.”

Naia™ Renew staple fiber has inherent softness, is quick drying and reduces garment pilling. It blends well with other eco-friendly materials such as lyocell, modal and ecycled polyester to produce sustainable fabrics and garments that are ideal for everyday comfort wear—whether it’s a busy day on the go or a cozy night on the couch. It is a versatile fiber perfect for T-shirts, comfy pants, jumpsuits and dresses.

The fiber is produced from wood pulp sourced from certified forests, and the recycled plastics feedstock is generated via Eastman's patented carbon renewal technology (CRT). CRT is an integrated molecular recycling technology that breaks down waste plastics, such as post-consumer carpet fiber and plastic packaging materials, into basic molecular building blocks for the manufacture of new products including fibers — a truly circular solution creating value from waste.

“With more consumers seeking all-day comfort and style, the need for sustainable yet soft, cocooning clothing is higher than ever. Today, shoppers looking for sustainable options are not willing to compromise on style nor on quality or durability,” said Carolina Sister Cohn, Eastman’s global segment market

Fully circular, Naia™ Renew staple fiber is produced with a low carbon footprint in a closed-loop process where solvents are safely recycled back into the system for reuse.

*Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by allocation of plastics using an ISCC-certified mass balance process.

Naia is represented in Pakistan by iTextiles. For any further information please contact: info@itextiles.com.pk.

About Eastman Founded in 1920, Eastman is a global specialty materials company that produces a broad range of products found in items people use every day. With the purpose of enhancing the quality of life in a material way, Eastman works with customers to deliver innovative products and solutions while maintaining a commitment to safety and sustainability.

The company's innovation-driven growth model takes advantage of world-class technology platforms, deep customer engagement, and differentiated application development to grow its leading positions in attractive end markets such as transportation, building and construction, and consumables. As a globally inclusive and diverse company, Eastman employs approximately 14,500 people around the world and serves customers in more than 100 countries. The company had 2020 revenues of approximately $8.5 billion and is headquartered in Kingsport, Tennessee, USA. In 2019, Eastman began commercial-scale chemical recycling for a broad set of waste plastics that would otherwise be landfilled or incinerated, or worse, end up in the environment. Eastman Advanced Circular Recycling technologies process waste plastics traditional mechanical recycling methods cannot—including polyesters, polypropylene, polyethylene, and polystyrene— derived from a variety of sources, including single-use plastics, textiles, and carpet. These technologies provide a true circular solution of endless recycling for materials, allowing them to be reused repeatedly.

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

Features

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and TextileGenesis™ Announce Collaboration The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, a new science-based sustainability program that collects robust farm-level data against six key sustainability metrics, is pleased to announce that it is further enhancing the value of its program by delivering unparalleled supply chain transparency through its Protocol Credit Management System (PCMS). Recognizing the growing importance of increased supply chain visibility to brand and retail members, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is joining the TextileGenesis™ platform as the world’s first sustainable cotton fiber to offer full transparency across the supply chain on the platform.

“Today, having a holistic view of every step throughout the supply chain is imperative for brands and retailers,” said Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “We are proud to announce our collaboration with

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

TextileGenesis™ to address this need as the Trust Protocol aims to set a new standard for more sustainable and trackable cotton production.”

In combination with the existing Protocol Platform, developed by Memphis-based technology partner The Seam LLC., the TextileGenesis™ platform will allow the PCMS to record and verify the movement of U.S. cotton fiber through the entire process by capturing and verifying article level transactions between the multiple participants along the complete supply chain. Upon receipt of their finished products, Trust Protocol brand and retail members will be able to claim Protocol Credits, digital tokens equivalent to the physical cotton produced under the program, and make corresponding claims related to the environmental metrics and sustainable practices adopted by participating Trust

Protocol growers.

“We have engineered our platform to leverage the latest technology and industry-specific best-practices, with a heavy emphasis on strong data methodologies,” said Amit Gautam, CEO and founder of TextileGenesis™.

“Collaborating with the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, with its clear focus on robust data and the strength of its verification practices, creates a powerful solution for brands and retailers worldwide in their search for more sustainable fibers and enhanced visibility in their supply chains.”

The collaboration will result in initial pilot trials with selected brands and mills in early June 2021, with full deployment of the PCMS envisioned for early 2022.

The Trust Protocol has welcomed more than 300 brand, retailer, mill and manufacturer members since its launch in 2020. It is included on the Textile

Features Exchange’s list of 36 preferred fibers and materials that more than 170 participating brands and retailers can select from as part of Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index program. The Trust Protocol also is working to align with existing standards in the cotton industry and is part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, the Forum for the Future Cotton 2040, and the CottonUp guide.

About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol In a period of ever-greater supply chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol will set a standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to the issue of responsibly-grown cotton production and drives continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics. The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Choosing Trust Protocol cotton will give brands and retailers the critical assurances they need that the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk. Brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton with sustainability credentials proven via

Field to Market, measured via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified by Control Union Certifications. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well as the cotton-growing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers.

About TextileGenesisTM TextileGenesisTM is a pioneering supply chain traceability platform for the fashion and textile industry, enabled by blockchain technology.

Our award-winning FibercoinTM traceability technology creates realtime traceability at article level from fiber-to-retail creating an entirely new level of visibility for brands and retailers. The platform is custom-built for all sustainable fibers in the fashion industry such as man-made cellulosic fibers, sustainable cotton, responsible wool, and recycled polyester. The technology is highly scalable with first of its kind fiber-toretail traceability data protocol (based on GS1 standard) to drive seamless exchange of data across the textile value chain. The modular design ensures easy integration with

various forensic (physical) verification methods used in the fashion industry.

TextileGenesisTM is collaborating & conducting fiber-to-retail traceability programs with top 10 leading brands collectively accounting for $100bn+ apparel sales. The platform creates a ‘sustainable network’ comprising of leading fiber producers (e.g., Lenzing) and hundreds of textile suppliers from 15+ countries to ensure rapid deployment and scalability of the end-to-end traceability. The cloud-based delivery model ensures easy accessibility from any device and is available globally in all major textile producing countries in three different languages. The TextileGenesisTM platform builds on the product traceability to create strong business incentives for textile suppliers to pro-actively share supply chain traceability data and assesses the environmental and social credentials of the entire supply chain.

TextileGenesisTM has won prestigious innovation awards in the fashion industry. It won the Global Change Award 2020 (often known as Nobel Prize in Fashion) from H&M Foundation, Accenture and Swedish Royal Institute of Technology from among 6,000+ innovations across 175+ countries. 

23

Jeanologia launches Handman, the future of textile manufacturing On the Earth Day presents a new technology that takes the industry to the next level using automation 

With this milestone, the company makes sustainable production scalable

technology is the beginning of a new era with a completely automized, sustainable and digital production.



Two people with two robots and eight lasers are able to produce 10,000 pairs of jeans a day sustainabl

10 years ago, introducing its technology, Jeanologia started the biggest transformation that the Blue Jean industry had ever seen. But this was only the beginning. The industry still has deficiencies and continues to use archaic and polluting production methods.



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Handman changes the relationship between brands, retailers and producers allowing them to be more strategic and interconnected

On the Earth Day, Jeanologia, world leaders in sustainable and ecoefficient technology development, launches Handman a new technology that revolutionizes the jeans industry allowing it to reach the next level thanks to automation.

Only with automation is it possible to have clean and scalable manufacturing.

Jeanologia has taken its inspiration from other industries that have been adapting to new times and technology innovations.

For example, in the telecoms and the automotive sectors people and robots are already working together.

With Handman, the company achieves a new milestone by making sustainable production scalable. This

As Enrique Silla, CEO at Jeanologia, highlights “today we present the future of our industry where robots and humans

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

work together, this is the only way to achieve clean and totally scalable production, with reduced costs, greater agility and better production look.”

The way in which we produce a product becomes part of its DNA, which is why, if it is not produced in a sustainable way, it is impossible for the jean industry to be clean, “now is the moment to make this a reality and to do it in a radical and fast way, the future starts today” states Silla.

Handman: 10,000 jeans a day produced sustainably Jeanologia has led the change of how jeans are designed and produced, through a combination of its technologies it has transformed the production model.

Now, with Handman, there is a total revolution of the process.

Feature

The technology is equipped by two lasers and a robot cabinet. A human and a robot work together to produce with scalability, agility, sustainability, and efficiency. Two humans working with two robots can produce 10,000 vintage jeans in 24 hours without discharge. Handman is a reality and currently is in use in 3 plants around the world, producing 5 million jeans a year.

production centers. “Moving from traditional transactions to more strategic and interconnected ones. For the first time, consumers and production centers will be connected, brands will become creative platforms that allow connection between consumer and producer” concludes Silla.

Handman also changes the relationship between brands, retailers and producers, allowing them to be more strategic and interconnected. Brands communicate directly with Handman and their production centers, and designers send instructions directly to the

Since 1994 Jeanologia’s mission has been to create an ethical, sustainable, and eco-efficient industry through their disruptive technology and know-how.

Their laser, G2 ozone, e-flow, Smart Boxes and H2Zero, have revolutionized the textile industry. They offer infinite

More than 25 years working for the world

design and garment finishing possibilities, while saving water, energy, and chemicals, eliminating discharge and toxic emissions.

The company currently employs 257 Jeanologist from 27 nationalities and has clients in 5 continents through its 10 subsidiaries. The export of its machines and services represents 90% of its total billing, reaching 68 countries. Over 35% of the 5 billion of jeans produced worldwide every year are made with their technologies, and the biggest market brands place their trust in Jeanologia, using technology developed by the company.

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Najam Yusuf, Technical Director, Nishat Mills

TITAN Forte – Bräcker Spinning Ring for Maximum Coarse Yarn Production After denim’s story of success started in the French city of Nîmes some centuries ago, the manufacturing hub of the world’s favorite twill fabric has now moved to the fast-growing market of Pakistan. To help the local industry cope with surging demand, Bräcker, a leading supplier of rings and travellers for ring spinning machines, developed TITAN Forte to help expand service life.

Field tests conducted at one of the country’s largest vertically integrated mills, Nishat Mills Limited, are showing promising results with TITAN Forte even extending service life by up to six times!

Denim is probably the most popular fabric today. The name denim stems from “Serge de Nîmes”, with “Serge” referring to a twill fabric which was formerly produced in the southern French city of Nîmes. After going mainstream in the US and around the world in the 20th century,

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

Pakistan has now become one of the world’s most important markets for denim. A key reason is that the sturdy fabric benefits from the local cotton which is characterized by coarse and short fibers.

The downside of the country’s success, however, is that the huge demand for denim is pushing Pakistani spinning mills to the limit. The many textile applications on ring spinning machines put the ring/traveller system under intense pressure as it is a key component in ring spin-

Feature ning. This is especially true for applications with coarse yarns from Ne 6 through to Ne 10 SIRO as they result in extreme loads for the ring/traveller system which potentially lead to premature failure of the spinning ring.

Technical innovations for a longer service life Following extensive research and development to address this challenge, Bräcker launched a new ring called “TITAN Forte” based on the renowned TITAN coating.

The key process parameters of the coating process have been optimized to provide a superior coating with significantly increased resistance against high load and high velocity wear phenomena.

about three years, even under extreme load and the continuous running of travellers over the entire service life of the spinning ring.

Mr. Najam Yusuf, Technical Director at Nishat Mills Limited, explains that TITAN Forte has significant advantages in the coarse yarn count range in combination with higher spindle lift. “We benefit from remarkable improvements for coarse twist yarn applications such as Ne 10 SIRO.” Mr. Yusuf further highlights that with TITAN Forte spinning parameters remained constant over the entire service life of the spinning ring, without adjustments of the traveller weights. The reinforced and highly resistant surface of the TITAN Forte rings allowed a consistently high spindle speed by retaining and

About Rieter Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and manmade fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover spinning preparation processes and all four endspinning processes currently established on the market. Rieter is also a market leader in precision winding machines. With 15 manufacturing locations in 10 countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 420 employees, about 21% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under the ticker symbol RIEN.

About Bräcker Bräcker, the world’s leading supplier of rings and travellers for ring spinning systems, is a subsidiary of the Rieter Group. Bräcker, based in Pfäffikon ZH (Switzerland), creates customer value through system expertise, innovative solutions, after sales excellence and global presence. The company manufactures its main products – rings and travellers for ring spinning machines – in Pfäffikon and Wintzenheim (France).

In addition, Bräcker offers grinding machines used for maintenance of cots.

Bräcker’s TITAN Forte for ring spinning helps to extend service life by up to six times

Boosting service lifetime by up to six times Field tests at one of Pakistan’s largest vertically integrated textile mills Nishat Mills 54 in Sheikhupura Faisalabad are promising.

Tests across the board proved that the service life of the TITAN Forte is about six times longer compared to conventional spinning rings. The rings and traveller systems were used for 100% cotton plain, twin, weaving, knitting, compact as well as non-compact yarn ranges from yarn count Ne 8 to Ne 20. The new rings last

absorbing more ring load. Reduced hairiness and the Imperfection Index of Yarn (IPI) result in a constant yarn quality level over the entire service life of the spinning ring.

TITAN Forte improved production efficiency thanks to increased spindle speeds and fewer traveller cycles, which together with the increased service life led to fewer downtimes. Mr. Yusuf in closing points to the commercial advantages: “With the longer service life of TITAN Forte at maximum operating parameters, which also applies to the travellers, we achieved optimized cost efficiency.” 

About Nishat Mills Limited Nishat Mills Limited is the flagship company of Nishat Group. It covers spinning, weaving, processing, home textiles, garments, bath division and Nishat linen. Spinning production capacity for both cotton and blended yarns is 200 tons per day. Nishat Mills Limited is the largest vertically integrated textile company in Pakistan, with the latest state of the art machinery setups. Nishat Mills provide equal employee opportunities for men and women and adopt and set terms in sustainability and environmentally friendly textile products. 

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Interview

Mr. Sachin Malik, Head of Global Sales, APR

Mr. Tapan Kumar, VP BD and Marketing Head, APR

“Pakistan is one the most important markets for Asia Pacific Rayon” Mr. Sachin Malik : Head of Global Sales Mr. Tapan Kumar : VP BD AND Marketing Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is one of the world’s key producers of viscose rayon. APR has penetrated Pakistan within a few years after first being introduced to this important market that has been traditionally dominated by cotton.

This welcome addition to the volatile cotton market has opened new vistas for the industry with a wider range of quality products that are now possible for a better global standing. Pakistan Textile Journal caught up with Mr. Sachin Malik, Head of Global Sales, based in Singapore and Mr. Tapan Kumar, VP BD and Marketing Head based in Indonesia to learn about the company and its importance in the global textile industry with a focus on Pakistan.

Sachin Malik; Head of Global Sales Please tell us about Asia Pacific Rayon and its origin.

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is the first fully integrated viscose rayon producer in Asia. Located in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau, uses the latest production technology to

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

produce high-quality rayon to meet textile needs. APR is committed to becoming a leading viscose rayon producer with the principles of sustainability, transparency and operational efficiency, serves the interests of the community and the country, and provides value to customers. APR is part of the RGE (Royal Golden Eagle) group of resource-based manufacturing companies. Formally inaugurated by

Indonesian President Joko Widodo in February 2020, APR is a vertically integrated operation from renewable fiber plantations to high-value textile development, located in Riau, Sumatra. In the same year, Asia Pacific Yarn (APY) and Jakarta Fashion Hub (JFH) were established to respectively support yarn research and development, and promote fashion design talent and collaboration.

Interview What are the key markets for APR and where does Pakistan stand in this list?

As a relatively new entrant in the VSF market, APR has established a strong market presence within two years with a growing network of customers in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan and Turkey.

Our VSF business will continue to expand into the international markets by partnering with others in the textile value chain.

How do you foresee the growth of VSF in Pakistan market.

We have exported into 14 countries with key export markets for APR being Turkey, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Pakistan is the second largest export market for APR with 25% share of total export. We have seen robust demand for viscose in Pakistan for the past few years and it will continually increase. In addition, a shortage of cotton as investment in spinning continues, viscose can be a good substitute.

Please share growth plans of APR and RGE group in cellulose fibre segment.

APR plans to increase its production capacity to 600,000 tonnes to meet the strong growth potential of viscose staple fiber (VSF) and strengthen its market position in Indonesia and export markets

across the region. The additional capacity will be achieved through improved optimisation and efficiencies, and by adding 300,000-tonne viscose production facility in Pangkalan Kerinci, where APR is colocated with sister company and fiber supplier APRIL Group.

The expansion will utilise APRIL’s current rayon grade AE pulp capacity from existing pulp production lines, with fiber supply sourced from APRIL’s existing responsibly managed renewable fiber plantations in compliance with internationally recognised forest certification standards and its sustainability policy and in keeping with the recently announced April 2030 commitments and targets.

APR’s 240,000-tonne capacity Viscose Rayon mill in Pangkalan Kerinci, Riau, Indonesia

Construction of the additional APR production lines is scheduled to commence in the second half of 2021 and will include features such as a chemical recovery process upgrade, slush-pulp processing installation and other investments aimed at reducing APR’s energy use and environmental footprint.

Upon the additional lines’ completion in 2023, APR will be the world’s largest single-site integrated viscose manufacturing facility, seamlessly integrating dissolving wood pulp from APRIL’s renewable fiber plantations.

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Mr. Tapan Kumar; VP BD and Marketing Head What makes viscose rayon fibre uniquely suitable for value-added textiles?

Viscose advantages are inexpensive, known for its silk-like feel, drapes beautifully, breathable, similar to cotton in this regard, ideal for those seeking a luxurious look and feel at a more economical price point, blends well with other fibers, particularly woven ones, dyes easily and produces beautiful and vivid colors. With these characteristics, we can use rayon in

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many applications such as clothing, home textile, sportwear, for nonwoven we can apply for medical equipment even to wet wipes.

How sustainable is the fibre as compared with other natural, synthetic and man-made fibres?

APR’s Viscose Made from 100% wood cellulose, viscose-rayon is a natural alternative to acrylic, polyester, nylon and other petroleum-based synthetic fabrics.

The highly absorbent nature of cellulose fibre enables it to take dyes very well, bringing about rich and radiant colours without losing its natural lustre.

Our wood fibre supply is sourced from sustainably managed plantations and forests. These trees are renewable resources which are harvested within 5 years for the next cycle of planting and harvesting, thus ensuring a constant supply of renewable raw materials.

Consisting of natural plant-based polymers, viscose-rayon is biodegradable and naturally decomposes into the soil.

APR’s viscose staple fibres have been awarded the international OK biodegradability WATER and OK biodegradability SOIL labels by accredited certification board, TUV Austria.

Interview What advice would you give to Pakistani textile manufacturers and exporters to enhance their portfolio and range of products?

Competitiveness of Pakistani textile industry due to low cost and high quality workmanship is underutilized in knitting segment. There is a huge potential for Viscose based products, globally cotton will continue to remain stagnant or reduce due to limitation of land and water which makes Viscose as the closest alternative to Cotton.

Nonwovens is also unexplored segment in Pakistan. High quality woven viscose products for ladies apparels can be added in exporters portfolio and demand can be shifted from high cost countries to Pakistan.

You have often commented that the true potential of Viscose is not fully exploited in Pakistan market, kindly explain.

While cotton has been widely used in textiles from the ancient times due to its versatility, soft texture and comfort, now it has put people in a dilemma given the fact that cotton is highly water intensive and dependent on fertilizers and pesticides.

Moreover, cotton production will be stagnant or shrink due to the limited availability of arable land. Therefore, it can be difficult to manage its incessant supply. Quickly responding to that, the industry is evolving to introduce newer alternatives for cotton.

And this is where regenerated cellulose fibres come in. Regenerated cellulose fibres are formed by regenerating materials of natural origin such as wood pulp that has been dissolved, purified, and extruded into a usable form.

For several decades, the production of regenerated cellulose fibres like viscose has been extensively done, and it is considered to be an ideal substitute for the natural cellulose fibre like cotton.

With the rapid change in fashion trend, the demands of viscose is increasing very fast as the brands and buyers are gradually moving towards apparel goods made of artificial fibre.

Inside APR Mills, quality Viscose Fibre

What product developments you are pursuing?

Our sister company Sateri in China, is the world’s largest producer of viscose fibre has successfully produced FINEXTM as its new product brand for recycled fibre. FINEXTM, short for ‘Fibre Next’, is an innovative next-generation cellulosic fibre containing recycled content. Since its announcement in March 2020 of a breakthrough in commercial production of viscose using recycled textile waste, Sateri has worked closely with its downstream yarn and garment manufacturing partners to bring the recycled fibre product to the consumer market.

Another development we are in is expansion for our Lyocell production.

Sateri’s first foray into China’s Lyocell market was in May 2020 when its 20,000 tonne Lyocell production line in Rizhao, Shandong province. We are now planning to expand Lyocell production in China, with total planned annual capacity of up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025.

The first phase of this expansion kicked off recently with ground breaking works for a new 100,000 tonne facility in Changzhou, Jiangsu province. Another 100,000 tonne facility will be built in Nantong, Jiangsu province later this year.

The Changzhou Lyocell facility is expected to commence production in the third quarter of 2022.

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Sateri to Acquire Funing Aoyang’s Viscose Fibre Business 7 May 2021, Shanghai -- Sateri has entered into agreement with Funing Aoyang Technology Co., Ltd. (Funing Aoyang) to acquire its viscose fibre business. The acquisition is part of Sateri’s growth strategy which will bring Sateri’s total number of viscose mills in China to six and total annual production capacity to more than 1.8 million tonnes.

performance. Through better management and operational excellence, we hope to make a positive impact to the local economy and accelerate the sustainable development of the industry.”

Funing Aoyang is a subsidiary of listed company Jiangsu Aoyang Health Industry Co., Ltd. Its 330,000-tonne per annum mill that will be acquired by Sateri under the agreement, is located in Aoyang Industrial Park, Funing County, Jiangsu Province. Sateri is a member of the RGE group of companies; RGE manages a group of resource-based manufacturing companies with global operations spanning Indonesia, China, Brazil, Spain and Canada.

About Sateri

Allen Zhang, Sateri’s President, said: “This acquisition will boost Sateri’s market footprint and further strengthen our ability to serve customers in eastern and northern China. We will invest in advanced technologies to upgrade the mill so as to enhance its process technology, safety and environmental

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

The closing of the acquisition is subject to procedural approvals by relevant authorities.

Sateri is the world’s largest producer of viscose fibre, a natural and sustainable raw material found in everyday items like textiles, baby wipes and personal hygiene products. Our range of high quality viscose products is independently verified as safe and responsibly produced.

Our five mills in China collectively produce about 1.5 million tonnes of viscose fibre yearly. We also produce textile yarn, spunlace non-woven fabric and Lyocell fibre.

Headquartered in Shanghai, we have a sales, marketing and customer service network covering Asia, Europe and the Americas.

Sateri is committed to the fundamental principles of sustainable development; our business practices are underpinned by strict adherence to our Sustainability Policy, Pulp Sourcing Policy and universally accepted environmental and social standards.

Texworld Evolution Paris - Le Showroom returns from July 5th to 9th 2021

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This physical event for the fashion industry professionals will therefore be held in Paris the first week of July. This format, successfully developed by Messe Frankfurt France, allows to maintain exchanges with fabrics and finished products manufacturers, while respecting sanitary regulations.

imagined as a trade show inthe heart of the fashion capital, will focus on a selection of trendy products from the textile trade shows Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld and Texworld Paris, chosen to allow buyers to build their collections and exhibitors to present their know-how.

physically and in optimal conditions of comfort and security, more than 2,500 samples selected by the teams of Messe Frankfurt France from 75 international manufacturers from a dozen countries.

During five days, buyers were able to exchange 3,235 requests related to collection projects or orders.

Faced with the uncertainties related to the COVID-19 crisis and the restrictions imposed on major international events, Messe Frankfurt France has decided to renew the Texworld Evolution Paris - Le Showroom formula, in Paris, from July 5th to 9th.

Inspired by the concept developed with great success in February, this new edition is a must-attend rendez-vous to meet the expectations of international fashion players. This convivial event,

Touch and feel the fabrics

A wider selection of products and brands

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

This appropriate and innovative business solution has already seduced buyers from major ready-to-wear brands, young talents and many fashion designers to whom it has brought a fresh breath of creativity while offering a real meeting place to discover, hold fabrics in hand, get inspired and talk business.

Praised by the European press, the first edition allowed several hundred buyers and fashion designers to discover

This unique event held in Paris will present an expanded offer compared to the previous edition, with an even wider selection of finished products from Apparel Sourcing and fabrics from Texworld exhibitors. This array of products will express the full creative potential of the fall-winter 2022 season.

As in February, buyers will be welcome upon invitation in order to ensure an

Fairs and Exhibitions adequate flow of attendees. From the moment they arrive at the showroom, buyers will be provided with a digital tool specifically developed to facilitate direct contact with manufacturers for expressing interest, requesting samples or quotations, while enjoying an exceptional setting. And for those who are not able to visit the showroom, the experience continues online through the digital sourcing platform developed by Messe Frankfurt France with its partner Foursource.

Providing maximum convenience for visitors, Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld and Texworld Paris belong to the cluster of related trade shows organised by Messe Frankfurt France, held in one and the same location, on the same dates and where entry is free upon presentation of professional credentials.

Background information on Messe Frankfurt Messe Frankfurt is the world’s largest trade fair, congress and event organiser with its own exhibition grounds. The Messe Frankfurt Group employs around 2,500* people in a total of 30 subsidiaries. The company generated annual sales of approximately Euro 250* million in 2020 after having recorded

sales of Euro 738 million the previous year. Even in difficult times caused by the coronavirus pandemic, we are globally networked with our industry sectors. We have close ties with our industry sectors and serve our customers’ business interests efficiently within the framework of our Fairs & Events, Locations and Services business fields. One of the Group’s key USPs is its closely knit global sales network, which extends throughout the world. Our omprehensive range of services – both onsite and online –

ensures that customers worldwide enjoy consistently high quality and flexibility when planning, organising and running their events. We are expanding our digital expertise with new business models. The wide range of services includes renting exhibition grounds, trade fair construction and marketing, personnel and food services.

Headquartered in Frankfurt am Main, the company is owned by the City of Frankfurt (60 percent) and the State of Hesse (40 percent).

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FESPA GLOBAL PRINT EXPO, October 2021: ‘Brinting Color Back’ Registration now open for rescheduled FESPA Global Print Expo 2021 FESPA is ‘Bringing Colour Back’ at this year’s FESPA Global Print Expo, which is now scheduled to take place at the RAI exhibition centre in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, from 12 to 15 October 2021.

This will be the first FESPA live event in Europe since May 2019, following the postponement of all events during 2020 and early 2021 due to the COVID pandemic.

Recent research conducted among FESPA’s audiences reveals a strong appetite for the live event, with 73% of respondents seeing trade shows as an essential platform for reviewing and making future product purchases.

With a focus on supporting speciality print communities with sustained business recovery following the challenges of the last year, FESPA aims to deliver a COVIDsafe environment that gives visitors and exhibitors the first chance to connect face-to-face in over 18 months.

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

Occupying six exhibition halls at the RAI, print service providers and sign makers will experience the latest innovations in screen, digital, wide format and textile printing, from over 300 expected suppliers. FESPA’s popular Printeriors and World Wrap Masters features will also return to inspire visitors with the latest ideas, applications and materials in interior décor and vehicle wrapping.

to support their recovery, and they see FESPA Global Print Expo as a key milestone in their forward planning.

Taking into account all information currently available to us, we’re relaunching FESPA 2021 this autumn with confidence that we can offer participants a live event that takes all possible health and safety precautions, while still fulfilling their key expectations of a FESPA show as an interactive, multisensory experience.”

European Sign Expo, the largest European exhibition for non-printed signage and visual communications, will once again be colocated with FESPA Global Print Expo, enabling brand owners and communications professionals to explore opportunities beyond print.

Neil Felton, CEO of FESPA comments: “Our audiences have told us that they need access to hands-on product demonstrations and to participate in faceto-face meetings with multiple suppliers

About FESPA Founded in 1962, FESPA is a global federation of Associations for the screen printing, digital printing and textile printing community. FESPA’s dual aim is to promote screen printing and digital imaging and to share knowledge about screen and digital printing with its members across the world, helping them to grow their businesses and learn about the latest developments in their fast growing indus.

Fresh-up for DOMOTEX 2022 

 

New layout of the strong labels "Carpets & Rugs" and "Floor & Wall" New show days: Thursday to Sunday Positive response and strong commitment from exhibitors

Hannover: With eight months to go until DOMOTEX 2022, it is already apparent that the 33rd edition of the world's most important trade show for carpets and floor coverings will be a strong and innovative event.

"We will present trends, innovations and lifestyle in a decentralized way in the respective display areas," says Sonia Wedell-Castellano, Global Director DOMOTEX, Deutsche Messe AG, Hannover. "Exhibitors and attendees can look forward to many innovative ideas.

They can discover trends and innovations that will shape tomorrow's business. We

are particularly pleased with marketrelevant exhibitors that we have been able to 'reconquer' for the upcoming event. Being able to meet the entire flooring industry face-to-face again in Hannover in January 2022 is a real highlight after the long pandemic! This makes the preparations even more fun."

DOMOTEX will feature several innovations from January 13 to 16: a modern and optimized design of the two newly introduced DOMOTEX labels "Carpets & Rugs" and "Floor & Wall" as well as an adapted hall structure will facilitate orientation. The expanded range of products and services increases efficiency. In addition, DOMOTEX focuses even more on application and special formats tailored to specific target groups that increase for atmosphere and relevance.

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Fairs and Exhibitions Registration level exceeds expectations The current registration status attests to the positive response to DOMOTEX, which take place as a hybrid event in January 2022. "Many exhibitors have already confirmed their participation at DOMOTEX even before registration was officially open," adds Wedell-Castellano.

"This once again underscores the importance of DOMOTEX as a global marketplace and a source of inspiration for the entire industry. The importance of face-to-face meetings for the industry cannot be overrated: renowned and longstanding exhibitors such as IPEK - A. Ipektchi, Galleria Battilossi, Jaipur Rugs Company, Jambros Modern Flooring, Javi Home, Rezas Oriental & Modern Rugs and Zollanvari from the handmade carpet sector, as well as Oriental Weavers Carpet, Obsession and Royal Hali from the machine-made carpet sector have already confirmed their participation.

Commitments of Bauwerk Group, HARO and Scheucher as new exhibitors as well as the participations of ter Hürne and Windmöller in the field of parquet, LVT and laminate are a special source of joy.

In addition the likes of Associated Weavers, Infloor-Girloon and Onefloor

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

from the textile and resilient sector and SELIT from the application and installation technology sector have already registered."

range of products including the many wall solutions that exhibitors regularly show at DOMOTEX. This means that Halls 11 to 13 will form "Floor & Wall."

Two new strong labels: "Carpets & Rugs" and "Floor & Wall" make it easier to get an overview of the market

New show days

Two new strong labels will be introduced at DOMOTEX 2022 to optimize orientation for visitors: "Carpet & Rugs" and "Floor & Wall". The adjusted hall layout brings together product groups from the two labels in terms of space, enabling attendees from the wholesale and retail trade, architecture, interior design, crafts, and the furniture and furnishings trade to find their way around more easily. Halls 2 to 4 will showcase the world's largest range of handmade carpets. Machine-made woven carpets can be seen in Halls 5 to 7. Halls 2 to 7 thus form "Carpet & Rugs".

Products and practical solutions from application and installation technology will in future be at home in Hall 12, directly adjacent to textile floor coverings in Hall 11 and hard flooring and resilient flooring in Hall 13. In addition, greater emphasis will be placed on the extended

Starting next year, DOMOTEX will take place from Thursday to Sunday (previously Friday to Monday). This means that DOMOTEX 2022 will start on January 13 and remain open until January 16. With the new sequence of days, DOMOTEX is responding to the wishes of numerous visitors and exhibitors to officially open the show as early as Thursday and offer two consecutive working days.

DOMOTEX Worldwide: DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR: Shanghai, May 25-27, 2022, international trade show for carpets and floor coverings in the Asia-Pacific region, will be held in May instead of March due to overlap with official government dates.

The venue will be the NECC grounds.

DOMOTEX Turkey: Gaziantep, leading trade show for carpets and floor coverings in Turkey, is scheduled to be held in fall 2021.

Dyes and Chemicals

Doing our part in the fight against Covid-19: 99.84 % protection against SARS CoV-2 on textiles thanks to Sanitized® T 99-19 The antimicrobial protection of Sanitized® T 99-19 is valued by textile manufacturers worldwide. Now the product’s nearly 100 % efficacy against the SARS-CoV-2 virus has been confirmed by independent labs in France (basis: ISO 18184:2019).

Textile and polymer products with Sanitized® antimicrobial treatment have been used in hygiene-sensitive areas for many years. For textiles, Sanitized® T 9919 is a patented technology based on a silane-ammonia compound, a globally proven product. Its hygiene function is used in workwear and protective clothing for nursing staff, bed linen or mattresses in hotels, nursing care facilities and hospitals. Polyester goods for precisely these areas of application can now not only be antimicrobial, but also reliably protective against SARS CoV-2. The antiviral efficacy (99.84 %) of the Sanitized® T 99-19 product has been officially confirmed by tests conducted by external labs.

“This excellent antiviral test result of our particle and metal-free Silane Quat technology, achieved on the basis of a standardized and reproducible test method, meets the expectation of our customers and the market. Thanks to its wide range of applications, Sanitized® T 99-19 can be used in a variety of ways in daily hygiene and can make a positive contribution to our efforts to control the

pandemic,” explains Stefan Müller, Head of Business Unit Textile Additives at SANITIZED AG.

Customers are looking for safety Tests on end products, which were additionally carried out by textile manufacturers, also prove the effectiveness of Sanitized® T 99-19 against SARS CoV-2.

License partners praise this confidence-building benefit of the end products. SANITIZED license partners receive concrete support in terms of marketing and legal aspects (health claims).

99.84 % protection against SARS CoV-2 on textiles thanks to Sanitized® T 99-19

Avoid legal pitfalls when claiming antiviral protection SANITIZED has always been more than just a manufacturer of innovative antimicrobial products. Advice and support for customers in achieving optimal hygiene protection for their products are an integral part of the company’s offering. A claim guide has therefore been developed especially for products that protect against COVID-19.

SANITIZED AG works closely with institutes, universities and global labs on testing methods. “We value this exchange of know-how and experience and our customers benefit from it in the form of innovative and safe products,” explains Stefan Müller.

Swiss antimicrobial expertise since 1935.

SANITIZED AG is the world's leading Swiss company for hygiene function, material protection, and odormanagement for textiles, polymers, coatings, and paints. For 85 years, the company has performed pioneering work in developing innovative additives while handling antimicrobial active ingredients responsibly. The company actively practices resource conservation as part of its company philosophy. SANITIZED's product range is complemented by application, technology, regulatory, and marketing services. Sanitized®, an ingredient brand that is trusted, valued and used around the world.

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Major innovations by Uster ready to go live ITMA Asia + CITME 2021 exhibition will see Uster product launches The Uster 2021 product launch season is well under way: the new Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer introduced in March, followed in April by the Q-Bar 2.

Alongside these innovations came new Quality Expert software, with the latest Mill Dashboard feature. Now, these major developments are ready to go live for the first time at ITMA Asia + CITME 2021 in Shanghai.

First, Uster took decisive steps to remove any uncertainties over event timings by releasing news of the Mill Dashboard through its official LinkedIn account on 5th of March, along with a promise of more innovations to come.

The launch season continued, with the new yarn clearer and the innovative formation monitoring system being presented online, ahead of the upcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in China.

Capacitive and optical sensors in one The brand-new Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers the best of both sensor technologies – capacitive and optical – for intelligent yarn quality control and

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

optimized profitability. Mills can now focus on meeting the fast-moving market challenges, instead of pondering technical options.

Spinners can now access full security in quality control, ensuring the best clearing mode is applied. The Quantum 4.0 generation enables this through a simple capacitive/optical switch. This allows greater flexibility in the yarn types which can be produced, while also dealing with factors such as humidity variations.

Using its unique Smart Duo technology, the Quantum 4.0 operates both sensor channels intelligently in tandem, through an innovation known as Cross Clearing. This locates and eliminates hidden defects by means of a double check, in which the main sensor’s signal is supported by the assistance sensor. This deals with issues such as unnoticed fluff events, which might otherwise cause breaks downstream.

Today’s market trends show strong demand for compact yarns. Here, spinners can trust Quantum 4.0 to tap this potential and deal with any quality

issues. The density feature, for example, protects mills from substandard cops caused by ring spinning malfunctions such as blocked compacting zones, or twist problems. The Smart Duo has the advantage of monitoring yarn density continuously and after every splice.

As well as identifying issues at winding, defect prevention at source is now possible – a massive advantage provided by the clearer’s new Quantum Expert, included in the product offering.

Thanks to many extra intelligent analytical features, the Uster Quantum Expert enhances process control and prevention of defects, through Total Contamination Control, Ring Spinning Optimization and the RSO 3D Value Module.

Fabric inspection: the right position Q-Bar 2 is best described as a formation monitoring system, because of its ingenious positioning on the loom, directly at the interface of warp and weft threads. The impact on weaving is amazing: monitoring at the earliest possible stage allows rapid response as

Special Report soon as a defect appears, avoiding longrunning or repeating faults. Alarm and stop signals alert the operator to correct problems immediately. Early detection reduces second quality and material loss, as well as minimizing the need for postproduction checks.

Weaving defects can have various root causes, so Uster Q-Bar 2 provides different algorithms to identify specific defects and their causes. This inbuilt knowledge can prevent defects within the weft insertion cycle. The detection position in the fabric formation zone means the warp is monitored even before it is traversed by the weft – a truly unique benefit. It allows detection of incorrect warp positions, missing warp, loose warp ends and even pattern irregularities.

Another important innovation is the control of weft irregularities. By monitoring each inserted weft in the formation area, Q-Bar 2 primes users to react to weft irregularities at the earliest possible stage. At this point, it can detect weft-related defects such as double picks, broken weft or slubs and loops.

First-quality production, to customer specifications, is the overall goal. That is especially important in demanding applications such as industrial and safety textiles. In apparel and home textiles too, it is vital to avoid seconds and minimize waste fabric. Independent of the fabric application, Uster Q-Bar 2 is a gamechanger. For the first time, weavers can actually prevent weaving defects instead of only reacting to them.

Key people, key data The introduction of the latest Mill Dashboard might seem like just another of many new features with Uster Quality Expert. But this one can bring significant changes for operators in spinning mills.

The new version of the Mill Dashboard presents key data directly to key individuals in the spinning mill, so they can react rapidly to any quality deviations. It also ensures greater transparency on the shop floor.

The latest release of Uster Quality Expert is available for connection – and all key quality parameters from laboratory and in-line instruments can be displayed, targeted to individual needs and preferences.

Real and virtual worlds In keeping with current trends and pandemic restrictions, Uster has also developed an effective home in the virtual world, with an online showroom to enhance in-person exhibition attendance. First of all, the new virtual showroom is exclusively open to customers who are advised to get in touch with their sales contact.

Ready to host visitors to ITMA Asia + CITME 2021, Uster will present a showcase of the latest innovations. The Quantum 4.0 is sure to be an attentiongrabber: a demonstration of Quantum Expert will illustrate how customers can benefit from Quantum 4.0 and its related systems. The stylish design and the defect catalogue will trigger initial interest for QBar 2 – what’s likely to be even more memorable is the demonstration of how well the smart indicator lights work to show up the positions of detected defects. Also on view will be a Mill Dashboard screen, along with the Value Modules and other features of Uster Quality Expert. Clever animations will provide a deep understanding of databased quality during yarn production.

Final insider tip: the twist measurement feature of Uster Tester 6 will be shown for the first time in Asia.

About Uster Technologies Uster is the world’s leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric.

Uster Technologies offers hightechnology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services.

Uster provides the globallyacknowledged Uster Statistics benchmarks for trading, textile knowhow training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’.

Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel). 

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German Review

Pakistan – Germany Bilateral Relations: 70 years of cooperation

by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

Pakistan and Germany have enjoyed warm friendly relations since the establishment of their diplomatic ties in 1951. Pakistan was one of the first Asian countries to establish relations with Federal Republic of Germany (West Germany). These relations are based on shared values of democracy, pluralism, respect for human rights, cultural and religious diversity and economic liberalism. Since inception in 1951, Pakistan-Germany relations have been on an upward trajectory. In 1959, the two countries signed the world’s first bilateral investment treaty. The two countries also entered into financial cooperation in 1961 as West Germany, became a member of the consortium of countries providing development assistance to Pakistan. In 1962, the two sides established a Pakistan-German Forum.

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

Germany is the eighth largest investor in Pakistan, and several German multinationals are operating in Pakistan.

Germany has also extended active support to Pakistan's initiatives with the EU for providing greater market access to Pakistani exports to EU.

Ambassador Bernhard Schlagheck

Germany maintains a cordial diplomatic presence in the country, with an embassy in Islamabad, a consulate in Karachi and Honorary-Consulate in Lahore, Peshawar, and Quetta.

In Pakistan, German businesses are symbolized by multinational corporations, who are mainly located in Karachi and Lahore, and on the other hand, by Pakistani trading agents who represent the majority of the German companies in the areas of machinery, chemical and pharmaceuticals, instruments, automotive, and related equipment and services.

Approximately, 35 German multinationals are engaged in Pakistan.

The majority have their production plants

German Review Table 1: Pak - German Trade Value: US$ Million Balance of Trade

Year

Exports

Imports

2015-16

1,217

969

+248

2016-17

1,237

1,095

+142

2017-18

1,365

1,097

+268

2018-19

1,307

1,089

+218

2019-20

1,301

949

+352

Source: State Bank of Pakistan Annual Reports.

governance, crisis prevention and stabilisation, and energy.

Sustainability is the core business Together with Pakistani counterparts, GIZ has been addressing the ever- changing needs of the Pakistani society for over 50 years, for the country to grow and prosper.

As one of Pakistan's first development partners, GIZ supports the government of Pakistan through its various interventions in the technical and vocational education and training (TVET) sector for policylevel-reforms and in implementation of private sector lead and demand driven training system for better employability prospects.

GIZ is advocating to establish TVET as a standard in procurement process of public infrastructure programmes. GIZ supports people living in poverty and those at risk of falling into poverty for improved access to needs based social protection services. and offices in the metropolitan city of Karachi and at least another 5 companies have merged with other multinationals being headquartered in the port city.

Another five German companies located in Lahore and one in Quetta, of all the multinational companies present in Pakistan, 55% of them are from the pharmaceutical and chemical industries.

The services sector comprises of 15% of companies followed by the transport sector and textiles machinery with 5% each.

The German government has pledged approximately 3.5 billion euros in project support, of which some 3.1 billion has already been disbursed over the years.

This development cooperation focuses on support for the energy sector, good governance and business.

GIZ: German Cooperation with Pakistan Pakistan was one of the first countries to adopt the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) as its National Development Goals. Country's vision 2025 document clearly spells down the promotion of better education, improved health and social situation along with providing better governance structures in the country.

Working on behalf of the German Federal Ministry of Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ), the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH's activities in Pakistan focus on the priority areas such as sustainable economic development, good

To enhance compliance with the labour and environmental standards in the textile and garment industry, GIZ assists the Pakistani Government in becoming a competitive player in the global market. This will increase the industry's productivity and access to new markets. Moreover, GIZ's interventions also seek to ensure that Pakistan maintains its Generalised System of Preferences (GSP+) status, a privileged access to the European Union (EU) market.

As a part of the local governance reform process in the country, GIZ works with the provincial and local governments to promote efficient, transparent and a participatory approach aimed at strengthening institutional capacity for better service delivery. Also, on behalf of the German government (Federal Foreign Office and BMZ), GIZ is assisting the

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German Review

government of Pakistan to improve its management of refugees.

With the public and private sector, GIZ is promoting the use of renewable energy and energy efficiency measures through policy and regulatory

frameworks, technology cooperation and green banking. As an initiative of the Pakistani and German governments, GIZ has supported the Pakistan German Renewable Energy Forum (PGREF). GIZ is also supporting Pakistan to address the challenges of climate change.

Table 2: Export of textile and other products from Pakistan to Germany (Major Items) Value : US$ 000 2019-20

2018-19

2017-18

Cotton fabrics

Items

75,277

88,269

98,956

Readymade garments

278,997

286,967

324,659

Knitwear (Hosiery)

253,117

244,263

218,624

Bedwear

241,620

240,824

240,845

Towels

36,978

38,972

42,273

Textile made ups

38,641

36,844

42,450

Tents and canvas

442

778

597

Artsilk & synthetic textiles

13,418

14,540

15,210

Rice

15,917

13,540

10,083

Leather tanned

6,743

7,499

12,383

Leather garments

69,795

66,949

82,397

Leather gloves

21,144

25,925

24,113

Footwear

34,260

31,029

32,549

Sport goods

28,399

30,532

47,740

Carpets and rugs

4,185

5,268

6,174

Surgical instruments

48,572

51,557

51,729

Fruits

7,645

7,649

7,248

Other items Total

125,850

115,595

106,970

1,301,000

1,307,000

1,365,000

Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

Pak-German Trade Germany is Pakistan's largest trading partner within the European Union, accounting for 20% of Pakistan's total exports to the EU and 21% of Pakistan's total imports from the EU. Germany has always extended its support for the betterment of the country in both commercial and social sectors. German has supported the Pakistani efforts to get greater access to EU markets including the approved Pakistan specific autonomous trade preferences.

In the year 2019 -20 the bilateral trade with Pakistan stood at US$ 2.25 billion. German exports to Pakistan amounted to US$ 949 million and German imports from Pakistan US$ 1.30 billion. During the past five year’s balance of trade remained in Pakistan’s favour. Pak-German trade are given in Table 1.

Exports: Pakistan and Germany also enjoy good economic relations.

Germany is a good market for Pakistani textile products especially readymade garments, bed wear cotton fabrics and knitwear.

The main items of exports included cotton fabrics, towels, synthetic textiles, carpet and rugs, cotton yarn, bed wear, cotton bags and other made-ups textiles, besides textile and clothing articles. Export of textile and other products from Pakistan to Germany are given in Table 2.

German Review Imports: Pakistan’s main imports from Germany are chemical products, textile machinery, electrical goods, motor vehicles and iron goods. Import of the major products from Germany to Pakistan include Machinery 20%, Electrical Machinery and Equipment 20%, Vehicles 17%, Mineral Fuels 13%, Pharmaceutical Products 7%, Plastics and Articles thereof 6%, Optical 5%, Organic Chemicals 5%, Iron and Steel 4%, Articles of Iron or Steel 3%.

Imports of Textile Machinery Germany’s export of modern machinery for textile to Pakistan, especially for the value-added textile sector would help Pakistani textile manufacturers improve the quality of their products and reduce the cost of doing business. Import of textile machinery (Major items) from Germany to Pakistan in terms of Pak Rupee are given in Table 3.

References 1.

German Textile Machinery Association (VDMA).

2.

Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

3.

State Bank of Pakistan-Annual Reports.

4.

Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

5.

Various press releases.

Table 3: Import of Textile Machinery from Germany (Major Items) Quantity: Number Value: Rs. Million

Machinery

2018-19

2019-20

Quantity

Value

Quantity

Value

Carding machines (Nos)

98

1,496

99

1,822

Drawing / Roving machines (Nos)

63

594

119

1,518

Blowroom machinery (Nos)

73

460

12

5,068

Textile Spinning machines (Nos)

86

3006

182

3,878

Cone / Bobbin Winding machines (Nos)

36

832

62

1,861

Textile Fibre machines (Nos)

68

456

16

49

Weaving (shuttles machines) (Nos)

15

24

13

24

Flat Knit machines (Nos)

66

158

39

409

Auxiliary machines (Nos)

63

124

61

164

Tops and Flats Card Clothing (000 Kg)

31

166

24

163

Card Clothing (000 Kg)

30

154

36

148

Spindles Flyer Ring travelers (000 Kg)

66

404

65

488

Sinkers Needles (000 Kg)

23

115

14

90

Drying machines (Nos)

7

134

9

3

Dyeing machines (Nos)

42

338

50

421

Mercerizing machines (Nos)

4

70

3

420

Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

45

German Review

German textile industry looking for future “Perspectives 2035” study

by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

The economy of Germany is a highly developed social market economy. It has the largest national economy in Europe, the fourth-largest by nominal GDP in the world, and fifth by GDP (PPP). Germany is a founding member of the European Union and the Eurozone.

Germany recorded the highest trade surplus in the world, making it the biggest capital exporter globally. Exports account for 41% of national output. The top 10 exports of Germany are vehicles, machinery, chemical goods, electronic products, electrical equipment,

pharmaceuticals machinery, transport, basic metals, food products and plastics.

autumn forecast estimated growth of 4.4% in 2021.

The coronavirus pandemic has left deep scars on the German economy and society at large. Eleven million applications for short-time work were filed in Germany between February and May 2020 alone. Almost all sectors of the economy were hit by the recession in 2020.

Textile Machinery

In the spring of 2020, experts were still anticipating a solid economic recovery and GDP growth of 5.2% in 2021. The

Export of German Spinning Machinery 2020 (000 Euro) 562,477 541,400

China 135,216 109,644

Turkey USA India Vietnam

46

62,886 106,061 49,899 84,112 32,088 40,473

Uzbekistan

28,463 56,299

Pakistan

28,255 59,311

Czech Republic

20,949 15,702

Brazil

18,717 17,916

Bangladesh

12,220 21,389

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

2020 2019

Source: VDMA.

The German mechanical engineering industry plays a prominent role in developing and realising sustainable solutions, such as effective solutions for new energy concepts and effective handling of scarce resources. The VDMA, the German Textile Machinery Association, has assumed patronage of the Blue Competence sustainability initiative, which aims to interconnect all of Germany’s mechanical engineering industry. It pools the resources, knowhow and strengths of VDMA members.

Textile machinery is one of 30 different mechanical engineering branches within Blue Competence and can be designed for the different demand profiles of the textile manufacturer, depending on the textile product and the specific process. In other words, the textile producer directly affects the specific energy usage in many ways.

The VDMA accompanies digitalization efforts of its members with numerous strategic and practical initiatives, studies and guidelines. Recent examples include a whitepaper that provides assistance in getting started with Big Data projects and highlights the challenges and opportunities of the necessary corporate

German Review change. The VDMA Start-up-Machine, helps members in a practical way to transfer a new and often different innovation culture into their companies: Start-up Radar screens global start-up trends and identifies suitable cooperation partners from the international start-up scene.

Today, textile machinery engineering is one of the important branches of engineering and plant construction in Germany. Textile machinery is used by more than 150 countries all over the world.

About 120 of the most important manufacturers of textile machinery and accessories from all sectors of the trade are affiliated with the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. The largest parts of the companies are medium-sized firms and stand for approximately 90% of the entire sector volume and produced textile machinery and accessories. In 2020, the branch exported textile machinery worth about 2.098 billion euros.

German textile machines are exported all over the world with their major clients being China, India, Turkey, USA, Italy, Brazil, Mexico, Pakistan and Bangladesh.

In 2020, German spinning machinery exports reached euros 1.1 billion, representing a share of 52% of the total German textile machinery export value.

China is the most important market for German textile spinning machinery, followed by Turkey, USA, India, and Vietnam. Country-wise export of German spinning machinery are given in graph.

In 2020, the German manufacturers exported weaving machines worth euros 84.2 million, representing a share of 5% of the total German textile machinery export value. China is the most important country of German textile weaving machinery in 2020, followed by Turkey, USA, Italy, Belgium and Italy. Countrywise export of German spinning machinery are given in graph.

Export of German Weaving Machinery 2020 (000 Euro) 24,256

China

15,421

Turkey

3,160

USA

2,604

Italy

France

6,119

2020 2019

2,507 317 2,405 4,610

Pakistan

2,199 2,334

India

2,167 2,463

United Kingdom

6,244

2,930 2,701

Belgium

Czech Republic

23,432

4,072

Source: VDMA.

1,874 3,621

German manufacturers exported finishing machinery worth 666 million euros in 2020 representing a share of 32% of the total German textile machinery export value. China is the most important country of German textile finishing machinery in 2020, followed by USA, Czech Republic, Poland, Turkey and Bangladesh. Country-wise export of German spinning machinery are given in Graph.

German manufacturers exported knitting machinery share of 8.8% of the total German textile machinery export value.

China is the most important country of German textile knitting machinery in 2020, followed by Turkey, Czech Republic and Italy. Country-wise export of German knitting machinery are given in graph on the next page.

The production of nonwovens and technical textiles see growth rates worldwide. In application areas like the automotive and filtration sector, business is strong. The demand of nonwovens products like personal care wipes and floor coverings is increasing significantly while the hygiene sector is still the main nonwoven end-use application area.

However, Europe is still a very important market, especially for technical textiles and nonwovens. The rise in technical textiles has also ensured that the German companies earn profits by exporting technically advanced machinery to China, USA, Mexico and India.

The VDMA member companies offer solutions for the entire textile chain. The portfolio covers machinery and accessories for spinning, nonwoven, weaving, knitting, hosiery and finishing (washing, bleaching, dyeing and drying).

German manufacturers exported knitting machinery worth 223 million euros in 2020 representing a share of 11% of the total German textile machinery export value. China is the most important country of German textile knitting machinery in 2020, followed by Turkey, Czech Republic and Italy.

Country-wise export of German spinning machinery are given in graph.

47

German Review Future Prosects

Export of German Finshing Machinery 2020 (000 Euro)

The general conditions for the textile machinery industry and for mechanical engineering as a whole are characterized by great uncertainty. Internationally, protectionism continues to increase and a final settlement of the United States Chinese trade conflict is not expected in the near future.

117,081 114,460

China 72,497 62,284

USA

57,063

Thaliand

20,817 51,800

Turkey

The economic decline has continued in 2020. A drastic market revival is not yet foreseeable. At the same time, digitalization continues to progress. It is a challenge for existing processes and traditional structures, but at the same time opens up opportunities for new services and business models.

Poland

109,332 38,385

France Italy

Industry 4.0 sector, and energyefficient technology extending from spinning to finishing – German Textile

Mexic

74,036 26,075 16,997 21,207 19,229 17,007 27,283

Source: VDMA.

15,156 10,705

Export of German Knitting and Hosiery Machinery 2020 (000 Euro) 40,635

China

52,562 34,071

Turkey

27,443 24,868 29,015

USA 13,651 12,981

Czech Republic

11,900 17,517

Italy France India

5,012

Brazil

4,616 5,135

United Kingdom

4,365 4,526

Taiwan

2020 2019

8,074 6,990 15,245

4,282 7,867

2019

26,679

Czech Republic Pakistan

2020

18,524

Source: VDMA.

Machinery Association VDMA is playing a major role in the global textile apparel manufacturing industry.

VDMA’s goal is to increase the competitiveness and innovativeness of its members and to secure the future viability of the textile machinery industry.

For this reason, the economic and technical representation of the industry’s interests, networking and exchange of experience as well as professional services are the focus of its work.

The German textile industry is looking to the future with its “Perspectives 2035” study. Experts from the textile and clothing industry and research as well as member companies of the association and the office discussed possible future paths for the industry development in five workshops of the Textile Research Board. 

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

After almost 30 years with the company, Monforts Vice-President Klaus Heinrichs is to retire at the end of May. A very well-known and respected figure in the industry, Klaus began working in marketing for the company in 1992.

“From the very beginning until today Klaus used his great flair and networking skills to secure and improve the company’s international presence and public relations, especially at seven successive ITMA textile machinery exhibitions, beginning with the show in Milan in 1995,” said Monforts Marketing Manager Nicole Croonenbroek.

“Later, he also took care of customer service, sales administration and exports in his uniquely calm and quietly-spoken style.”

“He has always been a guarantor of successful product launches for Monforts technical and technological highlights such as the TwinAir principle of independent airflow regulation, the Hercules LTM stenter chain, the Econtrol® dyeing technology or the Montex®Coat device - to mention only a few.”

Klaus has also been active on the VDMA’s Exhibition and Marketing Committee since 1993, which he chaired from 2005 to 2008.

“Klaus always enriched the industry discussions with practical and future-oriented proposals and thus also advanced ITMA,” said Thomas Waldmann, Managing

Director of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. “We sincerely thank him and wish him all the best for this new chapter of his life.”

“We will miss Klaus as a colleague and as a manager because of his skills, character and his engagement,” added Monforts Managing Director Stefan Flöth. “He truly represents the Monforts commitment to our customers to be helpful, accurate, fast and reliable, and we keep him as a friend. I’m sure the many friends he made throughout the world during his career with the company will join us in wishing him all the best for his next phase of life together with his family.

49

German Review

DiloGroup production line

DiloGroup – ITMA Asia As a machine manufacturer DiloSystems provides production lines for any nonwoven process and all types of staple fibre products. Looking back on a difficult year 2020, positive developments and a recovery in many industry sectors are now underway. DiloGroup with DiloSpinnbau, DiloTemafa, DiloMachines and DiloSystems as the general contractor delivers the complete range of machinery needed to produce needled nonwovens, and together with partners, thermobonded and hydroentangled nonwovens. All over the world, Dilo lines produce nonwovens for a wide range of applications including geotextiles, housing and roofing, automotive products, filtration, acoustics, artificial leather and medical or hygiene products.

DiloGroup lines can be supplied turnkey from the general contractor DiloSystems as your partner for a coordinated, professionally managed investment with a single responsibility to fulfil all needs technically and commercially. The complete staple fibre process equipment, starting at fibre 50

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

preparation (DiloTemafa), continuing with webforming by carding (DiloSpinnbau), up to crosslapping and needling (DiloMachines) is built in-house

by Dilo’s highly specialized departments.

These complete line projects are developed in close contact with our customers and on the basis of textile technological research and studies carried out in our technical centre in Eberbach, Germany.

Recently Dilo added water entanglement lines to its portfolio by cooperating with SICAM S.r.l., a wellknown producer of high- quality machinery for the nonwovens industry.

Apart from state of the art spunlace lines, DiloGroup is able to fulfill demands and requirements for products having improved tensile strength ratios with Dilo high-speed carding and layering technology.

In 119 years of history, the company has always set new standards regarding machine performance and efficiency.

Innovative technologies like DI-LOUR,

DI-LOOP and Hyperpunch-needling have created new markets for the nonwovens industry and pushed needlepunch technology to be one of the most important and versatile entanglement processes. New approaches promise higher productivity, quality and ground breaking possibilities for nonwoven textiles. “diloline 4.0” smart manufacturing is available to be used on every line.

Numerous information modules can be recalled via mobile apps and cloud data (mindSpheres). These methods allow the user to improve control of the machines and to generate production data to further secure the complex functions within the production system independently of personnel and shift.

Standstill times are decreased.

The 3D-Lofter technology is adding numerous possibilities to nonwovens. It works like a 3Dprinter whose ink consist of fibres and the addition of adjustable amounts of fibre in a specific pattern on top of fibre mats or needled felts enables

German Review

DiloGroup 3D-Lofter

applications like decorative features, precise reinforcement or improved fibre mat quality. Furthermore, nearly all fibres like PES, carbon or natural fibres are usable.

needleboard allows a high stitching density at high line speeds, due to the high number of needles. Furthermore, related patterns like 6000X are ready to be used in Hyperpunch needlelooms.

Also in the classical needling process Dilo achieves steady improvements. The recently developed needle pattern 8000X generates a new level of homogenous surface based on even distribution of stitches. At the same time, this

“Microneedling” has been developed as an alternative to water entanglement.

Optimized kinematics and maxed out stitch density generate intense but gentle needling at a high line speed. These fabrics can match water jet products

regarding quality and productivity at a weight of 60 g/m² and more. The main advantage here is the low energy consumption, since no high pressure and water processing is needed, which will gain importance in upcoming challenges to the industry for a low CO2 footprint.

These and other fibre processing and nonwoven fabric related topics can be discussed in detail with DiloGroup during ITMA Asia from June, 12 to 16 , 2021 at our booth No. A09 in hall H7.

Dilo Stichbild 8000X

51

Innovative ultrasound technology for chemical-mechanical textile finishing

Long-lasting antimicrobial textile finishing reduces infections and environmental impact The modular solution for the sonochemical, antimicrobial finishing of all kinds of textiles can be seamlessly integrated into existing plants and lines. Following consultation, the test facility at Brückner's technology center will be available for product testing from the second quarter of 2021.

52

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

German Review

The ultrasonic equipment was specially designed for this purpose and enables the zinc-oxide nanoparticles in the active agent formulation to be firmly and sustainably embedded in the surface of all kinds of textiles, with lasting effect.

Image source: Weber Ultrasonics AG

In light of the coronavirus pandemic and the increasing number of hospital infections around the world involving multidrug-resistant pathogens, antimicrobial textiles are coming back into focus. An innovative, ultrasound-based finishing technology developed by Sonovia, Brückner Textile Technologies, and Weber Ultrasonics now offers some crucial advantages: because the impregnation meets industrial requirements for wash resistance, it remains effective for a long period of time – even against coronaviruses.

Furthermore, the new "sono-finishing" process minimizes the environmental impact associated with conventional textile finishing.

Antimicrobial textiles are nothing new. But because the majority of impregnations that protect against bacteria, viruses, and fungi use chemical binding agents that only deliver limited wash resistance, the protective effect only lasts a certain amount of time.

Additionally, the chemicals and substances used can be harmful to the environment.

Liat Goldhammer, chief technical officer at Sonovia Ltd., setting out a key requirement. Furthermore, textile finishing must meet today's high economic and ecological standards.

Sonochemical process offers solution for all types of textiles In 2017, the company began industrializing a patented sono-finishing process. The one-step, sonochemical finishing process is suitable for all types of textiles – whether they're made from natural fibers like cotton, linen, and silk, synthetic materials, or a blend of both.

The procedure uses zinc-oxide nanoparticles as an active medium and is based on the physical phenomenon of acoustic cavitation: when exposed to ultrasound, small bubbles continuously form in the solution mixed with the nanoparticles, which then expand and collapse within split seconds.

This creates high-energy microstreaming patterns, which move at

around 500 meters per second. These carry the particles with them and embed them firmly in the textiles. "This is a distinctive feature of our technology versus conventional textile finishing processes that use chemical binding agents," explains Liat Goldhammer.

"With sono-finishing technology, the particles are mechanically embedded, so the antimicrobial properties remain in place for a long time." What's more, no polluting binding agents are required in the process, and the use of chemicals can be reduced by up to 50 percent.

The formation of cavitation bubbles via ultrasound is crucial to ensure the reliable application of the antimicrobial zinc-oxide particles. Standard ultrasonic systems cannot be used for this.

Strong partners for industrialization To transfer the technology from the university laboratory to large-scale industrial production, Sonovia partnered with Brückner Textile Technologies, a manufacturer of textile finishing systems and process technology developer, as well as Weber Ultrasonics, an international manufacturer of ultrasound technology components – both world leaders in their respective industries. "Both companies were impressed by the technology's potential and entered into partnerships with us. This cannot be taken for granted with such established firms – after all, collaboration with a startup always comes with certain risks," comments Liat Goldhammer.

While the R&D department at Weber Ultrasonics came up with a made-tomeasure ultrasonic concept, Brückner developed and built a corresponding

This may not only impact the environment; it can also result in pollutant residues on finished products.

"To ensure antimicrobial textiles like those used in clothing for medical workers, hospital linen/laundry, and oronasal masks significantly reduce the risk of infection, the impregnation must be able to withstand frequent laundering at the high temperatures required in the medical sector.

They cannot lose efficacy over the course of their normal useful life," says

The new technology's proven, lasting protective effects, in addition to the user-friendly and sustainable process, make it an optimal solution for finishing clothing for medical and care workers and many mor applications. Image source: Sonovia

53

German Review

The antimicrobial finishing is over 99 percent effective against the SARS-CoV-2 virus. The fabric is used to manufacture oronasal masks.

application unit that can also be integrated into a wider, continuous finishing process. The first system prototype for the sonochemical process has been in use at Brückner's technology center since early 2019.

Technological, environmental, and cost advantages In addition to ensuring maximum process reliability, key aspects included meeting the modern textile industry's high standards in terms of productivity, reliability, sustainability, ease of maintenance, and cost effectiveness.

Compared to conventional textile equipment, the new procedure not only offers the benefits of more long-lasting antimicrobial properties and being more environmentally friendly; it also allows for cost savings. "Although development is not yet complete, initial, conservative calculations suggest potential savings of around 10 percent from the reduction of chemicals used," comments Liat Goldhammer.

The new application unit, which is similar to a padding mangle, can easily be integrated into existing plants and lines. It can be used for finishing both woven and knitted fabrics, as well as nonwovens and carpeting.

Proven wash resistance and efficacy – even against coronaviruses to prove the lasting and reliable antimicrobial efficacy

54

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

of sonochemical textile finishing, Sonovia conducted testing together with renowned international textile research and certification institutes. The tests confirmed that the finished fabrics still retained their full antimicrobial properties after multiple wash cycles at high temperatures.

Sonovia now manufactures and sells antimicrobial oronasal masks made out of textiles that use this technology. Tests carried out in summer 2020 revealed more than 99 percent efficacy against SARS-CoV-2. Additionally, the mask filters 95 percent of 3 microns particles, the particle size which has been identified by the WHO as relevant to the spread of COVID-19.

The new technology's proven, lasting protective effects, in addition to the userfriendly and sustainable process, make it an optimal solution for finishing clothing for medical and care workers and laundry/linen in hospitals, senior homes, and hotels, as well as many other areas where hygiene and infection control are critical. The fashion and sportswear industries, as well as the automotive sector and railroad car fitters are also interested in sonochemically finished textiles. Relevant tests are set to be carried out at Brückner Textile Technologies' technology center starting in the second quarter of 2021.

Image source: Weber Ultrasonics

Relanit 3.2 HS: In Turkey, the machine is synonymous with single jersey fabric.

Mayer & Cie. extends top dog status in Turkey: above average market share, further on the increase In pandemic year 2020 circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. (MCT) has further improved its leading position in Turkey. So the country continues to be one of the company’s strongest and most consistent sales markets.

Even in difficult years, the manufacturer and its longstanding Turkish representative Mayer Mümessillik have achieved positive results.

The reasons for this year’s success, as Mayer & Cie. sees it, are the transfer of production to locations close to Europe, Turkey’s state-of-the-art machinery and the increase in demand for comfortable clothing that is suitable as home office wear.

Turkish market is a growth market despite corona setback “Compared to 2019, we anticipate a growth in the Turkish market even though the corona situation was a serious setback in the second quarter of 2020,” says Stefan Bühler, Mayer & Cie.’s regional sales manager for Turkey.

Mayer & Cie. got off to a strong start on the Bosporus in the first quarter of 2020 with additional positive effects until mid-March. This was due to a desire for production locations close to Europe. In the second quarter, during the lockdown, demand largely ground to a halt.

Government measures helped to cushion the downturn. Says Ahmet M. Öğretmen, general manager of MCT’s Turkish sales partner Mayer Mümessillik: “In the second quarter, GDP was down by about 10 percent, so we got off lightly.”

Since July 2020, orders for Mayer & Cie. circular knitting machines have bounced back again. Ahmet M. Öğretmen sees an interplay of reasons for this recovery. The main reason, he says, is the low exchange rate of the Turkish lira, which has boosted exports of readymade textiles. The Turkish daily Hürriyet reports, with reference to the Turkish state news agency, 11 percent year-onyear growth in August 2020. The most important export markets, the newspaper says, are Germany, the UK and Spain.

Between them, they account for around half of exports totalling euro 1.27 billion.

“This demand must be fulfilled,” Öğretmen says. “That leads to investment in machinery by manufacturers.”

55

German Review Relanit is synonymous with single jersey The machines of choice for Turkish knitwear manufacturers are regularly Mayer & Cie. machines. The longestablished German firm’s share of the Turkish market is substantially higher than in other markets. The manufacturer’s position is particularly strong in the market for plain single jersey fabrics, with the Relanit 3.2 HS being the machine of choice. It achieves an extraordinarily high level of productivity, especially in processing elastomer yarns. It also handles a wide range of yarns reliably.

“Interlock is Mayer & Cie.” Mayer & Cie. is the clear leader in the second major circular knitting discipline, rib and interlock fabrics. “Interlock is Mayer & Cie.,” says Ahmet M. Öğretmen, putting it in a nutshell. The machines used for double jersey fabrics are the OV 3.2 QCe, the D4 2.2 II and the D4 3.2 II. The OV 3.2 QCe knits interlock, 8-lock structures, spacers and fine gauge with 3.2 systems. The D4 2.2

II is another stalwart for rib, 8-lock and interlock. The 8-lock D4 3.2 II is the machine of choice for firms that want to manufacture structures such as Piqué, Punto di Roma or Thermal in addition to interlock.

The MBF 3.2 is another top seller in Turkey. A threeDetailed view of a MBF 3.2. The machine producing three-thread fleece stands for comfortable home thread fleece machine, it knits weak currency. Says Mayer Mümessillik fabrics for sports- and leisurewear such as general manager Öğretmen: “In the past hoodies and is very much in keeping with 10 to 20 years there has been very heavy the trend in home office year 2020.

“Comfortable clothing is circular knitted,” investment in high-quality machines. As a consequence we have the world’s says Ahmet M. Öğretmen, “and we youngest and most up-to-date benefit from that of course.” production facilities.” Combined with The world’s most state-of-the-art geographical proximity to the main machine parks are in Turkey export markets in Europe that should prove a growth driver in the years ahead Another advantage is the modernity – and keep demand for Mayer & Cie. of the Turkish machine park, which is machines brisk and high.  doubly attractive in view of Turkey’s

Webtalk:

Microwave control for magnetic coating by Monforts and Pleva Monforts Head of Technical Textiles Jürgen Hanel will take part in the next international webtalk to be held by the VDMA’s textile machinery division on May 20th.

He will be joined by Johannes Lutz, Research and Development Engineer at Pleva, to provide full details of how the latest Monforts coating technology is supported by special microwave measuring systems.

The Montex®Coat magnetic roller coating option allows a wide range of coatings and finishes to be carried out, while being easy to handle for operators and much easier to clean at the end of the process.

“This roller provides textile finishers with an expanded range of options due

56

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

to the fully-adjustable positioning of the magnet within the roller and with four different magnet positions possible, can be set to operate both as a direct coating system and as an indirect coater,” Hanel said.

being applied, and Pleva’s series 700 devices achieve this via contact-free microwave moisture measurement technology which can be supplied either as single- or three-point units, or as a traversing measurement unit.

Lutz will provide an overview of the use of Pleva microwave measurement technology in coating processes, in addition to the latest developments in electronic evaluation.

The free-to-attend webtalk will take place on May 20th from 2-3pm (CEST).

To ensure a constant high quality in coating operations it is necessary to accurately measure and control the amount of chemical

VacuFil Visco+ sample system with downstream pelletizer

From waste to value: controllable viscosity build-up in PET The VacuFil process, an innovative LSP (liquid state polycondensation) process developed by German machine builder BB Engineering, enables polyester waste to be processed into high-quality rPET. VacuFil is an innovative recycling system for polyester waste developed

by BB Engineering. The german machine builder is an expert in plastic extrusion and filtration for the manufacture of films and manmade fibers. The VacuFil system was developed with the objective of offering spinning plant customers a solution for directly processing their own spinning plant waste into high-end products.

Because while the recycling world is focusing on bottle flakes, which are limited in terms of volume, the potential of this resource remains extensively unexploited. The result is an innovative LSP (liquid state polycondensation) process, which recycles all polyester waste in an inexpensive, easy and reliable manner, and prepares it for reutilization in spinning or other applications. VacuFil produces an extremely homogeneous melt, whose viscosity is controlled in a targeted and stable manner. This creates a preciselydefinable, high-quality raw material for further processing.

By the way, the material recycling is not the only sustainable aspect of VacuFil. It also reduces CO2 emissions, which in turn can save money

(depending on the local regulations of the country of production). We are facing an average CO2 emission of 2,18 kg CO2 per kg PET. In contrast to this it is only 0,45 kg CO2 per kg PET during recycling. This is an enormous saving of 79%. On top of this you can avoid the emission from the usual waste incineration of additional 2,83 kg CO2 per kg PET.

microscopic melt homogeneity is achieved by means of homogenization drying, controlled plasticizing, gentle filtration and controlled vacuum degassing. The high degasification performance also dispenses with energy-intensive predrying. The GUIDE system monitors the entire recycling process, hence ensuring operational reliability.

The so-called Visco+ vacuum filter forms the core component of the recycling process and unites gentle large-area filtration with fast and flexibly-controllable viscosity build-up.

To this end, the melt properties required for the end application can be achieved in a reliable and reproducible manner and controlled during ongoing operation. The intrinsic viscosity is continually monitored by means of an integrated viscosity measurement unit and the process parameters reliably adjusted in the event of deviations.

These deviations can be the result of disparate input qualities, which are compensated during the ongoing process in this way. A reactor is not required. The automatically-regulated vacuum (1-30 mbar) removes volatile contamination and ensures a controlled, throughput-dependent IV increase of up to 30%. Macro- and

With its modular structure and a performance spectrum of between 300 kg/h and a maximum 3,000 kg/h, the VacuFil system opens up various possibilities for processing polyester waste. The melt can either first be granulated or fed directly into the system to manufacture the end product – even in the case of challenging further processing procedures, such as the production of FDY filaments, for example. With an optional 3DD mixer, a tried-and-tested BBE mixing technology, manufacturers are able to feed dyes and additives, but also the rPET melt, into a main melt flow. 

Visco+ filter – core component of the VacuFil recycling process

57

The new metal detector ELMETA MDA1005

A new metal detector with even higher accuracy Erhardt+Leimer at ITMA Asia At last – having been rescheduled from 2020, the 7th edition of the combined ITMA ASIA and CITMA exhibition will take place from 12 – 16 June 2021. Some 1,650 exhibitors will be at the venue in Shanghai, among them Erhardt+Leimer with several products from their broad portfolio for automation and quality assurance in the textile industry.

One of the products showcased by E+L is the new ELMETA MDA1005 / MDA1006 metal detector with increased accuracy: It reliably detects even very small metal particles across the entire width of the web. Signal LEDs on the sensor indicate the position of the metal

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

particle in the web. The integrated segment-wise evaluation as well as the gain setting and a reset button ensure straightforward commissioning. The device detects metal particles at production speeds from 2 to 500 m/min (depending on the size and material of the particles). The special scanning surface and the aluminum housing prevent damp webs or electromagnetic interference affecting the detection result.

The device can be used for dry and damp textiles and for non-woven fabrics. It can be installed in any orientation in any production machine. The only requirement is that there must not be any moving parts, e.g. rollers, installed within an area of 500 mm.

By detecting even very small metal particles, the MDA1005/1006 can prevent extremely costly damage that may occur on the downstream calender rollers and shearing tools. Furthermore, the risk of catalytic reactions in wet finishing is minimized.

Apart from the metal detector, Erhardt+Leimer will exhibit the ELCUT cutting systems, the ELSMART web guiding and spreading system, the ELSTRAIGHT weft straightening system, the ELFEED tenter guider, ELTENS equipment for web tension measurement and control and the camera-based ELCOUNT pick and course counter.

German Review

WarpMasterPlus – The new generation Drawing-in 4.0 – innovation in weaving preparation The WarpMasterPlus combines all properties offered by the established WarpMaster concept to date: modular design consisting of needle, reed, healds, drop wires and yarn module, low space requirements for the machine and drawn-in harness. This machine offers maximum flexibility with minimal setup requirements and problem-free drawing-in of critical warp yarns, as the drawing-in takes place via a bobbin.

presented for the first time at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

In this machine generation, Groz-Beckert continues to rely on the globally proven drawingin concept, where the drawing-in takes place via a single yarn package.

Nevertheless, WarpMasterPlus is not The new WarpMaster generation can merely a further draw in up to 150 threads per minute.

Groz-Beckert is the world’s leading development of the provider of industrial machine needles, WarpMaster: The system lengths can also be realized. The precision parts and fine tools as well as has been newly developed from the WarpMasterPlus is built in two lengths systems and services for the production ground up. The latest technologies were as standard: 2.40 m and 4.00 m. and joining of textile fabrics. The consistently used to bring a machine to In addition to the completely new products and services support the fields the market that is already equipped developments, tried-and-tested features of knitting, weaving, felting, tufting, today for future requirements with such as video support for the operating carding and sewing. Everything comes regard to increased automation in the personnel, which customers already together at the headquarters in course of Industry 4.0. know and appreciate from WarpMaster, Albstadt, Germany. The family-owned were also incorporated into the new company, founded in 1852, also Maximum flexibility with minimal WarpMasterPlus. This makes it possible operates with agencies, production and setup time to operate the machine quickly and distribution subsidiaries in more than Further focal points in the reliably even for persons without prior 150 countries around the world. development were maximizing machine knowledge of drawing-in. Groz-Beckert Recently, Groz-Beckert expanded its efficiency and simultaneously reducing product portfolio for Weaving is therefore also addressing the preparation with a new drawing-in the set-up and dismantling time. For increased shortage of skilled workers in machine: the WarpMasterPlus. this purpose, the number of cycles has the industry. been increased and sophisticated Developed for the future Hands-on training functions such as pre-setting drop wire The WarpMasterPlus is the latest magazines and CNC axes for adjusting Groz-Beckert would also like to generation of fully automatic drawingthe heald length have been added. demonstrate the advantages and in machines from Groz-Beckert and was Conversion times can be reduced to a operation of WarpMasterPlus directly minimum with on the machine. That’s why they plan to different accessories. expand their services and set up further Dividing the training options in addition to the machine into four training programs that already exist at modules further the headquarters in Albstadt. For this increases the ease of purpose, they will set up new maintenance and showrooms this year – initially in China, service. Another Turkey and India – where, in addition to advantage of the the WarpMasterPlus, other machines modular concept is from their weaving preparation portfolio The new WarpMaster generation can that customerwill be available for training, tests and draw in up to 150 threads per minute. specific machine demonstrations.

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A breakthrough for break drafts Modern draw frame machines offer a fantastic range of settings that can be adjusted to meet each spinners’ unique needs.

But adjusting the break draft is still difficult, unpredictable and very slow. The AUTO DRAFT function from Truetzschler, which is part of the successful autoleveller draw frame TD 10, uses an innovative measuring method to automatically optimize the break draft during production conditions. And it takes less than two minutes.

For many decades, spinners have been wrestling with the awkward problem of how to adjust the break draft on the draw frame. This is partly because adjusting the break draft involves changing a wide range of settings on the draw frame – and each setting needs to be adapted in line with every other setting. As a result, many spinners simply leave their break draft settings untouched because they don’t have time to interrupt their busy production schedule.

On top of this, there is currently no laboratory test or measured variable that provides clear information about the optimal break draft settings. Even fiber and draw frame manufacturers are only able to provide rough guidelines, which means spinners can only tell if their break draft settings are suitable when they inspect the finished yarn.

Many spinners try to adjust the break draft using the Coefficient of Variation

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

(CV) value. But while low break drafts often improve sliver evenness, this approach can open up additional problems (as shown in the graphic below). Setting the break draft too low can reduce yarn strength and elongation.

And it can also increase the number of

imperfections and have a negative effect on the running behavior and efficiency of the machines operating at later stages in the spinning process. This means optimization is only possible in the very long term, if at all.

German Review Faster and better than anything else on the market Our innovative AUTO DRAFT function provides a high-impact solution to this awkward problem in the production of carded ring yarns, including polyester. It uses a state-of-the-art measuring method to calculate the best possible break draft setting automatically – within real production conditions. The method considers all fiber and sliver parameters, as well as the settings on the specific model of draw frame and the relevant external boundary conditions.

The user can then choose whether to apply the recommended setting in the software of their machine.

AUTO DRAFT is able to identify the optimal break draft setting in less than two minutes. This accelerates the process of adjusting the break draft and creates meaningful clarity about how to optimize those adjustments.

A massive range of attractive benefits The customers across the textile industry around the world are already benefitting from AUTO DRAFT, a feature in the autoleveller draw frame TD 10. The major advantages include:  Optimal adjustment of the break draft – including selecting the best possible settings for new materials at the first attempt.  Correct drafting distribution in the drafting system.  Less adjustment and shorter process times.  Better basic settings for the machine –

which reduces the negative effects of sub-optimal machine setting and provides a better, more uniform sliver quality.  Reduction of costs related to quality control.  Easy monitoring and adjustment of the machine settings when the quality of the raw material changes.  And improvements at later stages in the production process.

How it works When activated, the AUTO DRAFT function continuously changes the break draft from 1.00 to 1.95, and then measures the draft forces within the drafting system.

To sum up The AUTO DRAFT function is a truly game-changing technology for break draft optimization. It makes it possible to adjust the break draft quickly and easily, using an innovative and automatic method that operates within real production conditions – and that takes all relevant factors into consideration. In this way, it is enabling spinners to save time and money, while improving quality and making their processes more efficient. It’s a major breakthrough for the break draft.

And it’s empowering Truetzschler’s customers worldwide to grab a valuable competitive advantage.

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Clean Technology.

Smart Factory During the VDMA press conference on 31.5.2021 on the occasion of the upcoming ITMA ASIA+ CITME 2021, André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs at Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division, reported on the following topics (the spoken word counts): First of all, I hope that you and your families are all well under the circumstances of the corona pandemic.

I am very much looking forward to seeing you all back in good health soon again.

As Chairman of the VDMA's Trade Fair and Marketing Committee, I would like to start today's VDMA media conference by expressing my thanks to Boris Abadjieff, Nicolai Strauch, Barbara Clobes and, last but not least, Thomas Waldmann on behalf of all member companies for VDMA’s commitment and engagement to this years ITMA Asia 2021.

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PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2021

What's new at Oerlikon?

You've probably already heard about it. We are continuing to grow!

Oerlikon, a leading provider of surface engineering, polymer processing and additive manufacturing, just recently announced that we have signed an agreement to acquire Italy-headquartered INglass S.p.A. and its innovative hot runner systems technology operating under its market-leading HRSflow business. The strategic acquisition is a significant step in expanding our current manmade fibers business into the larger polymer processing market.

Looking ahead to ITMA Asia 2021, we are looking forward to welcoming our long-standing customers at our booth in Hall 7, A54, and of course very much hope to make new contacts as well.

Due to the Corona pandemic, we have decided to concentrate with our Chinese sales and service teams on guests primarily from China and greater Asia.

However, some experts from Germany, who are working in China at our locations anyway, will be live on site at the booth.

Other experts from Germany, India and US will be available online for the entire 5 days of the trade fair and will simply be connected by video conference to the discussion with the visitors on site if there is a need for.

As you all know, our product portfolio ranges from melt to yarn, fibers and nonwovens.

We offer sustainable, energy-efficient technology solutions for the production of polyester, polypropylene, nylon and other materials. Today, this also includes spinning in-house recycling solutions and biopolymer plant solutions.

In addition to the melt flow, digital data handling plays an increasingly important role today. Here, too, we always have the tailor-made solution for our customers with our software and hardware offerings.

Meanwhile have successfully installed over 300 of our digital Plant Operations Solutions worldwide. Following the ITMA Barcelona, where we presented the new eAFK Evo, our engineers have been

In the field of high-precision flow control solutions components, we will present two new gear metering pumps developments for the production of aramid and spandex.

working intensively on the development of this texturing machine. At ITMA Asia 2021, we will present the next generation of this automatic texturing solution with up to 25 % energy saving and up to 30 % higher production speed, easy maintenance and best yarn quality. The core of this machine, the socalled EvoCooler, will be shown as an exhibit in combination with digital solutions like AIM4DTY. We will also invite all our guests to our Open House at our Oerlikon plant in Suzhou.

Its just one hour drive from the NECC exhibition center.

You will find out everything else on site and accompanied to this with the start of the trade fair on our website and in the corresponding social media.

Thank you very much for your attention.”

Caption: André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs at Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division, looking forward to an exciting exhibition at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2020 in Shanghai from June 12-16, 2021. André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing

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Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX MAY 2021

ACIMIT ......................................................................3 APR Sateri .................................................................33 Archroma..................................................................IFC AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 64 Chhipasons................................................................64 CCI USA.....................................................................1 Fongs ........................................................................13 iTextiles.....................................................................IBC Jet Logistics................................................................64 Monforts ...................................................................FC Rastgar............................................................... 9 & 64 Texgro........................................................................21 Truetzschler.................................................................BC Uster ..........................................................................11

Established 1951

Established 1951 March 2021

Swiss Review

April 2021

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing I