wine supplement
myredstar.com 2
wine supplement
3 myredstar.com
Contents
目录
The Knowledge 知识篇
The Food 美食篇
6
10 An Italian Indulgence 意式风情，神之美味 18 New Zealand Fresh 新西兰新鲜美味 21 A cheese odyssey 芝士梦之旅 34 Spanish sensations 体验西班牙 38 Trattoria Verde 北绿岛 40 Cheese and Chocolate 芝士与巧克力
How to taste wine like an expert 如何像专家一样品酒 8 Pairing wine with food 美酒美食搭配 30 Are all Chinese wines created equally? 中国葡萄酒市场 44 Red Wine Street revealed 红酒一条街
The Wine 美酒篇 14 Italy uncovered 意大利发现之旅 24 Valerio Vinci’s top picks 意大利佳品 28 Beware of imitations 谨防假冒 36 Shandong’s new wine 山东新酒 43 Outstanding outback 澳洲美酒
Creative Team 策划团队 Ian Burns, Neil Bhullar, Tim Lyddiatt, David Chen, Apple Tan, Aaron Bird, Zoe Zheng, Mika Wang, Riemy Wan, Fanny Texier, Jim Boyce Cover photography by marc montebello Advertising Enquiries 广告征订 (+86 532) 8097-0521 / 8388-2269 Publication Enquiries 出版物咨询 info@myredstar.com
Welcome ... wine connoisseurs of Qingdao, to REDSTAR’s inaugural wine supplement, your guide to the world of wine available here. It wasn’t a hard decision to make in creating what follows; we are REDSTAR, we like wine! And Shandong, being the province in which more wine is produced than any other, is at the heart of the burgeoning wine industry. At the same, as China’s palette matures and becomes more knowledgeable, more and more of the world’s greatest producers are looking to China as a new and vibrant market. Some of the best are now in Qingdao. Inside, join us as we explore this new world of wine. You’ll hear from importers and distributers from established wine producers from as far afield as France and Spain, New Zealand and Australia. We explore the uniquely symbiotic relationship between food and wine, and learn how to taste wine like a pro. We visit some of Qingdao’s best restaurants and how they pair the grain with the grape, and take a walk down the city’s famous Red Wine Street. Also inside, join the debate as to the reality of Chinese, and specifically Shandong, wines: sides have been taken and lines drawn.
欢迎岛城葡萄酒鉴赏家们阅 读红星葡萄酒特刊创刊号，带你纵 横葡萄酒世界。撰写此特刊的目 的很简单：我们是红星，我们爱葡 萄酒！而且山东是国内葡萄酒出产 大省，蓬勃发展的葡萄酒业的心脏 所在。同时，中国市场逐渐成熟， 人们的酒类知识愈加丰富，更多的 世界顶级生产商越加重视新兴中国 市场。很多国际一线酒业已经进驻 青岛市场。 翻开此刊，和我们一起探寻 葡萄酒的美丽新世界。在这里，有 葡萄酒进口商和分销商的声音、有 葡萄酒生产商的声音，有来自遥远 法国、西班牙、新西兰和澳大利亚 酒业的声音。我们探寻美食与美酒 的独特搭配关系，学习像葡萄酒鉴 赏专家一样品酒。走访了岛城某些 西餐厅，了解他们如何搭配美食美 酒，当然还有葡萄酒街。同时，也 剖析了中国尤其是山东的葡萄酒市 场的现状。 希望你如同我们一样喜欢本 特刊。
We hope you enjoy reading as much as we have enjoyed learning.
4 myredstar.com
image © Liyue
wine supplement
myredstar.com 6
The Knowledge 知识篇
Wine Tasting 品酒速成指南 Henke Trading’s Henry Niu teaches you to taste wine like a pro. 牛海涛教您像专家一样品酒 Your Eyes Pour a glass of wine and take a good look at it. Tilt the glass away from you and check out the colour of the wine from the rim edges to the middle of the glass. What colour is it? If it’s a red wine is the colour maroon, purple, ruby, garnet, red, brick or even brownish? If it’s a white, is it clear, pale yellow, straw-like, light green, golden, amber or brown in appearance? Move on to the wine’s opacity. Is the wine watery or dark, translucent or opaque, dull or brilliant? An older red wine will often have more orange tinges on the edges of colour than younger red wines. Older white wines are darker than younger white wines when comparing the same varietal at different ages. 眼观 葡萄酒倒入杯中时，仔细观察。拿起酒杯稍稍 倾斜，查看酒杯边缘到中间位置的葡萄酒的颜色。 红葡萄酒的颜色是否呈褐红色，紫色，宝石红，石 榴红，大红，砖红，甚至是褐色。白葡萄酒是否清澈， 带点淡黄色，稻草色，淡绿色，金色，琥珀色，又或者 是棕色？ 再来观察葡萄酒的透明度。酒的颜色是浅还是 深，透明还是不透明，暗淡还是闪亮，混浊还是清 澈？能否看到沉淀物？稍微倾斜酒杯，轻轻一摇-再 次观察，是否有沉淀，软木渣或其他漂浮物质？一 般年份久的红酒边缘会比年份近的红酒多带点浅橙 色。不同年份的同种白葡萄酒，年份久的颜色暗。 6 myredstar.com
Your Nose Our sense of smell is critical in properly analysing a glass of wine. To get a good impression of your wine’s aroma, swirl your glass for a solid 10-12 seconds (this helps vaporise some of the wine’s alcohol and release more of its natural aromas) and then take a quick sniff to gain a first impression. Now stick your nose down into the glass and take a deep inhale through your nose. What are your second impressions? Do you smell oak, berry, flowers, vanilla or citrus? A wine’s aroma is an excellent indicator of its quality and unique characteristics. Swirl the wine and let the aromas mix and mingle, and sniff again. 鼻嗅 靠嗅觉来分析 酒是很重要的。想 要很好的嗅出酒的芳 香，您需要将酒杯轻摇 10-12秒（这样可以使葡萄酒的酒精挥 发，散发出更多天然芳香）第一次是 快速的闻一下。随后将鼻子探入酒杯 深吸。第二次感觉如何？您是否闻到 橡木，浆果，鲜花，香草或柑橘的味 道？葡萄酒的芳香能完美的展示出它 们的品质与特性。轻摇酒杯，让香气 混合，再深深地闻一下。
知识篇 The Knowledge
Your Mouth Next, take a taste. Start with a small sip and let it roll around your mouth. There are three stages of taste: the Attack phase, the Evolution phase and the Finish. 嘴尝 最后小呷一口，细细 品味。品尝共分三步： 初尝阶段，细品阶 段，最终阶段。
The Attack Phase The initial impression that the wine makes on your palate. The Attack is comprised of four pieces of the wine puzzle: alcohol content, tannin levels, acidity and residual sugar. These four puzzle pieces display initial sensations on the palate. Ideally these components will be wellbalanced and one piece will not be more prominent than the others. 初尝阶段 是指葡萄酒接触味蕾后 第一印象。由四部分组成： 酒精含量，单宁水平，酸度 和甜度。入口后第一感觉， 理想状态是这四项均衡，不 会有突兀的感觉。这四项本 身并没有特定的味道，混合 之后给人一种强烈复杂的感 觉，软或硬，轻或重，松脆 或粘稠，甜或干，却不一定 是水果或香料的味道。
The Evolution Phase The wine’s actual taste on the palate. In this phase you are looking to discern the flavour profile of the wine. If it’s a red wine you may start noting fruit - berry, plum, prune or fig; perhaps some spice - pepper, clove, cinnamon, or maybe a woody flavour like oak, cedar, or a detectable smokiness. If you are in the Evolution Phase of a white wine you may taste apple, pear, tropical or citrus fruits, or the taste may be more floral in nature or consist of honey, butter, herbs or a bit of earthiness. 细品阶段 指葡萄酒在嘴中的真正味道。在这个阶段，您需要 判断出葡萄酒的味道。红葡萄酒会从水果开始-浆果，李 子，西梅或是无花果；或者香料-胡椒粉，丁香，肉桂， 又或者是木头味-橡木，雪松，还有可能是烟味。白葡萄 酒会有苹果，梨，热带或柑橘类水果，又或是自然的花 香，蜂蜜、黄油、药草或泥土混合的味道。
The Finish Assesses how long the flavour impression lasts after it is swallowed. This is where the wine culminates, and where the aftertaste comes into play. Did it last several seconds? Was it light-bodied (like the weight of water), medium-bodied (similar in weight to milk) or fullbodied (like the consistency of cream)? Do you want another sip or was the wine too bitter at the end? What was your last flavour impression - fruit, butter, oak? Does the taste persist or is it short-lived? 最终阶段 咽下酒后嘴里的感觉。 余味是从哪里开始的。持续 时间长吗？酒体轻盈（像水 的重量），中度酒体（重量 接近牛奶），还是酒体厚重 （类似奶油）？还想再来一 口？后劲略带苦涩？最后的 味道是-水果，黄油还是橡 木？余味十足还是较短？ 品酒后，您或许会记录 下一些感受。总体来说您喜 欢这杯葡萄酒吗？是甜的， 咸的还是苦的？酸度如何？ 味道均衡吗？配着芝士，面 包或大餐饮用效果是否更 好？您还会买吗？答案是肯 定的，就请记录下葡萄酒名 称，酿造商，年份，供以后 参考。
CONGRATULATIONS! You’ve just tasted wine like a professional! 好了，您现在像一位专业的 品酒师了。
Henke Trading: 8589-7696 myredstar.com 7
The Knowledge 知识篇
The Right Wine 美酒配美食 Like a good marriage, wine and food were meant for each other. So why is it so daunting to try to pair foods with wines? 如同婚姻一般，相互映衬。想要搭配的好，绝非易事。
Rumour has it that there are lists and lists of rules and regulations that require strict adherence in order to obtain the perfect wine and food pairing. Rumour also has it that the rumour is wrong. The most important rule of food and wine pairing is that there are no rules, none! There are, however, guidelines; and many popular or even famous matches have been documented elsewhere. Ultimately however, the best match is what pleases your palate; it is truly a personal preference but in deference to those guidelines, here are some hints to help you determine what might be palate-pleasing for you personally.
Flavour Interactions
You are only able to detect four distinct flavours with your tongue: sweet, sour, salty and bitter; while your nose is able to decipher over 200 different aromas. Between the combination of sensory uptakes from both your tongue and your mouth you are able to experience a vast array of flavour characteristics and nuances. As you begin to pair wines with foods, keep in mind that the flavours of the foods can both contradict and compliment wine selections, and both can be good. For example, a sweet Riesling can make a bag of salty chips taste even more appealing by contrasting the saltiness while yielding some of its intrinsic sweetness, or when paired with a rich dessert such as cheesecake, the sweetness of the wine would likely mellow in flavour due to the overriding influence of the cheesecake. 8 myredstar.com
Heavy vs. Light
Next, consider whether a dish is ‘heavy’ or ‘light’ in nature, the difference between a meal consisting of steak and potatoes or one that tends toward a chicken and vegetable stir-fry. In general, most people seem to prefer heartier foods paired with fuller-bodied red wines and lighter fare to be complimented by more delicate white wines. Again, these are preference generalisations, a place to start and then experiment with your own combinations. Some tend to find it easier to remember red wines with red meats and white wines enhance white meats.
知识篇 The Knowledge
For the best choices in wine and food pa iring, read about our Napolita n feast, overle af
More to Consider
When looking at pairing potentials, consider the foods acidity. Acidic foods, like a Greek salad or lemonbased sauce work well with wines that share an acidic undertone (Pinot Grigio for example). While foods that lean to the sweeter side, like a chicken apple salad, tend to pair well with wines that are just a bit drier than the food they are to compliment (for example an off-dry Riesling). Whatever match you make with foods and wines, enjoy the adventure, and don’t get too caught up in those rumoured regulations. Make a note of pairings you’ve enjoyed for future reference and keep mixing and matching to learn how each component offers influences, be they subtle or strong. Most importantly, enjoy your food and enjoy your wine - neither should be an exam.
听说，在葡萄酒和食物 的搭配上，需要遵守的规律 规则很多很多。其实不然。 美酒美食搭配的最好境界就 是没有规则，混搭。
轻重之比
当然，也不能与搭配的 方向相背离。很多流行、经 典的搭配比比皆是。毫无疑 问，最符合你味蕾的就是最 棒的搭配。每人口味不同， 所以对于搭配的喜好也不尽 相同。以下小贴士为你选择 自己钟爱的搭配时做指导。
其次，需要考虑所配美 食的“轻重”性质，即一道 牛排土豆佳肴与炒制鸡肉蔬 菜的不同。一般大部分人喜 欢用丰盛的美食搭配醇厚的 红葡萄酒，用口味细腻的白 葡萄酒搭配清淡食物。但这 些只是大概的搭配指导方 针，初级搭配基石，随后就 需要你自己不断变化组合。 有人觉得，红配红、白配白 的搭配简单易记（红葡萄酒 配红肉，白葡萄酒配白肉）。
香气互搭
其他要点
味觉可以分辨出四种味 道：酸甜苦辣，但是嗅觉却 可以分辨出200多种不同的香 味。调动各种感官，就能分 辨很多气味的特点和各细微 差别。
搭配是需要充分考虑食 物的酸度。酸性食物如希腊 沙拉、含柠檬酱的食物，最 好与酸味葡萄酒（如灰比诺） 搭配。甜性食物，如鸡肉苹果 沙拉，比食物干的葡萄酒搭配 更佳，如半干性雷司令 。
在搭配美食和葡萄酒的 时候，请牢记美食的口味可 以与所选葡萄酒相冲或者相 兼容。例如，香甜雷司令与 咸味薯条搭配，可以令咸味 更加出众又略带丝丝甜味； 甜味葡萄酒与巧克力等甜点 搭配，更能突出香甜醇厚的 味道。
尽情享受美酒美食的搭 配过程，享受这种惊喜与历 险，不必太计较所谓的规 律。记住令你味蕾跳动的元 素，不断尝试各类搭配，体 验各元素之间的相互影响， 享受此消彼长间的乐趣。尽 情享受美食美酒。 myredstar.com 9
wine supplement
Food of the Gods 神之美味
Tim Lyddiatt images © marc montebello
Continued from the December issue of REDSTAR, Napoli 68 puts on a showcase of paired food and wine. 续12月红星杂志，拿波里68餐厅美食搭配精选意式葡萄酒。 How many times have in Qingdao have you been looking forward to meal perhaps you are celebrating something, or simply looking forward to spending time with friends or a loved one – and been disappointed by the speed at which your meals are dispatched from the kitchen, quickly followed by you and your party into the night, unsure of what to do next? For this author, far too often. Not so at Napoli 10 myredstar.com
that afternoon. Service was distinctly European. More specifically, it exemplified the southern European tradition of those that innately understand that food and wine is love; that speed has no place at the table when there are friends to be made and relationships to bolster. Southern Europeans value only one thing over their food and wine: family and friends. And to eat at their table is to be given the time to
appreciate them all, the one playing off the other. It is a tradition that vast swathes of the planet could learn from. Our first course proper was simplicity itself: a light plate of smoked salmon with fennel and a lime dressing. As you might expect from these ingredients, the plate was light and delicate, with just a suggestion of piquancy from the lime. The fennel especially, was a treat that I have not tasted since arriving
美食篇 The Food
On the first truly cold day of a Qingdao winter, our hearts were warmed by the flavours of Italy.
in Qingdao. Smoked salmon too has become a restaurant treat, something that I miss being able to combine with dill and mousse at home. This was followed by a gratin of imported Belon oyster and then by beef Bresaola with shaved parmesan, fine dishes both: elegant, refined and not trying too hard to be anything other than what they were. That said, the Bresaola did come incognito. I thought it was Carpaccio, that thinly sliced beef served raw. The Bresaola was just as thinly sliced, but had been cured to enhance the meat’s flavour. Stefano told me that it was produced in the mountains of Longobardi, near Naples and is a common way to start a meal. All three of these courses were delivered slowly, giving diners the chance to savour their unique and distinct
也许是欢庆场合、也许是 与朋友聚会、也许是与爱人甜 蜜温馨时，有多少次眼睁睁 的盼着饭菜，对上菜速度大失 所望，饥肠辘辘下匆匆结束用 餐。失落之下，不知道该如何 布置下面的节目。反正笔者有 过众多此类经历。但拿波里却 属于典型欧洲服务风格，带有 浓厚的南欧风格-骨子里热爱 美食美酒，上菜速度有张有 弛，给客人充分时间享受谈天 会友的乐趣。南欧人不仅注重 美食美酒，更在乎家人朋友。 聚餐的时候，四者都需兼顾。 这个传统值得所有国家借鉴。 我们的头盘菜简单却不失 典雅：熏鲑鱼配茴香、酸橙摆 盘。餐盘质地细致、色泽清 雅，衬托出酸橙的娇艳；茴香 是我到青岛后品尝过最为正 宗的；熏鲑鱼也很有大家风 范。随后是奶酪、进口贝隆牡 蛎、Bresaola牛肉配巴马臣芝 士薄片。两道菜品都高雅、精 致。我甚至都没有吃出来是 Bresaola，以为是生牛肉片， 而Bresaola只是一小薄片来 提升肉的风味。Stefano告诉
我，这产自那不勒斯附近的隆 戈巴尔迪山，常见的开胃菜。 这三道菜上菜速度都不是很 快，以便让食客有时间充分品 味各种独特风味，也与我们清 新爽口的佐餐酒Greco Di Tufo I Captani绝搭。拿波里的供应 商Gianpaolo向我们解释到选 择这款酒的原因，“此酒适合 与海鲜和沙拉搭配。她有着天 然的酸度，但又没有太多果 香，是款干白葡萄酒。”接下 来登场的葡萄酒， Gianpaolo 的爸爸Giuseppe称其为他 们“最棒的白葡萄酒”。大家 都聆听着Giuseppe的讲述。“ 葡萄丰收后，经过严格的挑 选，Traminer Bastie由精选 出的最棒葡 萄酿造而 成。
myredstar.com 12
wine supplement
flavours. They were also perfectly matched the wine, a Greco Di Tufo I Captani, which was clean and refreshing and crisp. Gianpaolo, Napoli 68’s supplier, explained he had selected that wine because the wine needs to be drunk with food as “it contains a lot of natural acidity, is not too fruity. It is a very dry white wine that pairs well with sea food and salads.” Languidly, we continued onward. The next wine, according to Giuseppe, Gianpaolo’s father, was their “best white wine.” To a silenced table, he told us all a story. “Only the best grapes are used to make this wine, the best of the best are selected as the harvest is taken, put aside and used only to make the Traminer Bastie. As a result, only 2-3000 bottles are ever produced at one time and we only sell it to those know to ask for it.” It is a privilege of knowledge that affords you this great wine, not something that can 12 myredstar.com
be bought and paid for by anyone with credit card. To accompany the Traminer, we were served a soup of pumpkin, cream cheese and crispy bacon followed by a wild mushroom risotto. The former was creamy and sweet as you would expect, but the addition of the bacon added a very pleasing saltiness. Of the latter, Giuesppe declared Stefano, “the champion of risottos,” before expressing his disbelief “at where he gets his porcini mushrooms!” It is a secret that Stefano would later only reveal in part. “I have a supplier in Shanghai who tells me they are porcini, but I am not so sure. Whatever they are, they are the best I have found in China and are certainly from Europe.” By this he means that have that strong taste of the forest that more local fungus lacks: strong, dark and musty, like old leather or a dampened fire. Both dishes worked well with the strong bold flavours of the Traminer and its fruity, vanilla aroma.
Moving on to the reds, our one pasta dish - macaroni with a traditional Neapolitan ragout - was accompanied by a Barbera Lucrezia Flavio Marchisio from D’Alba, a town famous for its truffles. The wine was deep in colour with a solid flavour of balanced tannins and high acidity. With aromas of plum, raspberry and lightly singed meat, it went down easily with the rich meat sauce. Next up, grilled tenderloin of Australian beef was accompanied by a Merlot Nardi which, upon its pouring, Gianpaolo noted how, “red wines must be at least three years old, otherwise they are no good.” The wine was deeply indulgent with chocolate and caramel. For me, it was a favourite:, it was a soprano hitting all the high notes. Just before desert was served, a Panna Cotta served with strawberries and chocolate, there was time for cheese. Stefano
wine supplement
逃离寒冷的青岛，感受暖暖意式风情。 serves his cheese with honey which, until you’ve tried it, may sound a bit odd. It is divine; the sweetness of the honey contrasts with the creamy sharpness of the cheeses, transforming them into something utterly unexpected but wonderful. Next time you’re there, you simply have to try them. But then, none of this should come as a surprise to anyone who has met Stefano. He knows his food and is passionate about sourcing the best ingredients to create the dishes he loves from home. It is why, as we were reluctantly leaving, going out once again in to the cold of a Chinese city, I overheard one of our number saying that “people who know good food go to Napoli.” I couldn’t have put it better myself.
每次仅产出二三千瓶，提供给 真正懂得此款酒的人。”这些 关于葡萄酒的知识可是无价之 宝，难用金钱衡量。 Traminer所搭配的美食是 奶油南瓜培根汤和野生蘑菇烩 饭。前道菜在奶油南瓜的香 甜上配以培根的丝丝咸意。 用牛肝菌菇制作的后道菜， 那可是“烩饭之王”。这是 Stefano的独家秘密，不能全 部公布于众。“我有一个上海 的供应商，他们说这是牛肝菌 菇。不管相信与否，这是我在 中国找到最好的来自欧洲的蘑 菇。”这也说明为何细细品味 烩饭，会更加独具森林气息浓烈香郁。这两道菜品很适合 与口感醇正浓烈、散发果香和 香草气息的Traminer搭配，随 之而来的是传统那不勒斯蔬 菜炖肉通心粉和与之相搭配的 是来自因松露而闻名的小镇 D’Alba的Barbera Lucrezia Flavio Marchisio红葡萄酒。此 酒色泽浓郁，单宁和酸度结合
的恰到好处，散发李子、树莓 的清香还有丝丝肉香，适合搭 配肉类。焦香乳猪这道菜，也 在此款酒的水果香气中更添风 味。接下来是，烤澳洲牛柳搭 配Merlot Nardi葡萄酒。在倒 酒过程中，Gianpaolo告诉我 们“三年陈酿的红葡萄才是好 酒。”此款酒很适合与巧克力 和焦糖搭配。美食无与伦比。 上意大利乳酪布丁配草 莓和巧克力甜点前，我们 还有点时间再来品尝点芝 士。Stefano用蜂蜜搭配芝 士，未曾品尝过的人总感觉怪 怪的。其实不然，蜂蜜和芝士 的味道都更加分明，蜂蜜的甜 味与芝士的奶香遥相呼应，美 妙滋味不可言喻。Stefano知 道美食精髓所在，到处搜寻最 佳食材以制作地道佳肴。这就 是为什么我们不舍得离开的原 因。“所有爱好美食者一定要 来拿波里。”不知谁说出了我 的心声。
myredstar.com 13
wine supplement
The Passion Antonello Perrucci tells REDSTAR why you should be paying attention to Italian wines. Antonello Perrucci向红星读者讲述意大利葡萄酒的过人之处 When you think of wine producing countries, what is the first that leaps to mind? For many, that country will be Gallic and its president’s wife will have recently given birth to a baby girl. It may come as a surprise then, that the world’s largest producer of wine is in fact Italy, which produces nearly half a million tonnes more each year than its nearest rival, France. “There are more than 18000 wine producers in Italy,” says Antonello Perrucci, GM at Pentagon Enterprises, one of the new breed of wine importers to be testing the waters in China. “Most of them are very small, and unheard of outside of their home regions.” Tony, as he is known by those that have met him more than once, says that Italian wine is among “the best in the world” and can hold its own against any of its rivals. “There are only two reasons that French wine is so well known around the world: “their wineries are huge, 14 myredstar.com
giving them the financial muscle to promote themselves abroad, and for twenty years the French government has encouraged and incentivised wine producers to push into far off markets, especially China.” He says that the net result is that “China is awash with French wine, and only now is Italian wine finding a market.” The story of Tony’s Italian wine is akin to the story of Nokia. Long before Nokia became the world’s largest producer of mobile phones, the company produced industrial rubber boots. Similarly, Tony’s company first came to Qingdao to be closer to the factories that produced the high performance tyres they still sell all over the world. Once here however, Tony noticed a “huge opportunity in wine” and set about preparing the ground for its import into “Qingdao, Shandong and beyond.” The first consignment arrived last year. He says
美酒篇 The Wine
its early days, “but so far the response has been good. We import wines from two large Italian co-operatives, wineries that have won awards for quality and flavour the world over.” His wines come from the south of the country: “from Apulia, in the ‘heel’ of Italy, a region where wine has been produced since ancient times.” The region produces a lot of wine, but Tony has selected wines that suit both the Chinese palette “and it’s food. The wines, particularly those produced from the Negroamaro and Primitivo variety of grape are deep, strong and full bodied.” He says that they go well with Chinese food because they can stand up to its strong flavours. Negroamaro and Primitivo are some of the many native varieties of grapes in the southern Italy and are grown almost exclusively in Apulia, and particularly in Salento where the wineries operate on a land along its Adriatic coast “Negroamaro produce wines very deep in colour and rustic in character, combining perfume with an earthy bitterness. Both the grapes produce some of the best red wines of Apulia.”
当您想起红酒制造国时， 脑海中最先想到的是什么？多 数人会想到法国和他们那刚刚 诞下女儿的第一夫人。事实却 不尽如此，世界上最大的葡萄 酒制造国其实是意大利，每年 的产量比法国要多出50多公 吨。派达格进出口有限公司总 经理Antonello Perrucci向我们 介绍到：“在意大利有13000 多家红酒制造商，规模基本不 大，很少被他们家乡之外的人 所熟知。” Tony说意大利的葡萄酒是 世界上最棒的。法国葡萄酒在 世界上这么有名，原因有二： 他们的酿酒厂都很庞大，有足 够的资金供他们向国外推广， 并且二十多年来，法国政府 一直鼓励制造商们进军国外市 场，尤其是中国。中国市场上 一直充斥着法国葡萄酒，最近 意大利葡萄酒才逐渐开始销售。 与Tony的意大利葡萄酒公 司类似的故事便是诺基亚了， 在诺基亚成为全球最大的手机
制造商之前，公司主要生产工 业用的橡胶靴。Tony的公司刚 进驻青岛市，他们主要生产高 性能轮胎，至今仍远销世界各 地。后来Tony注意到葡萄酒 市场巨大的潜力，开始将进口 葡萄酒引入青岛，山东，乃至 更远。第一批酒则是去年引进 的。Tony称：“目前酒的反响 不错，我们通过两家大型的意 大利合作商，酿酒厂进口葡萄 酒，都是获得过世界级奖项的 品质和口感。酒来自意大利南 部的普利亚地区，这里自古以 来一直生产葡萄酒。” 这里虽盛产各种葡萄 酒，Tony仅选择了几种适合中 国人口味的酒，“那种可以配 着食物喝的葡萄酒，特别是黑 曼罗和普里米蒂沃这两种颜色 深，果实大而饱满的葡萄产的 酒。配着中餐饮用，可以保留 其浓重的口味。” 黑曼罗和普里米蒂沃是南 部意大利特产的葡萄品种，并 且大部分只生长在普利亚地
Whilst it may be tempting to accuse Tony of simply trying to cash in on China’s current fascination with European wine - “it is definitely en vogue” - he says too that he is myredstar.com 15
The Wine 美酒篇
here for the long haul and is more interested in developing “wine culture” than simply shifting units. “Europe has had thousands of years to come to love and understand wine. China is just starting out.” He talks a lot about the “culture of wine,” something by which he is referring to wine being “not just something you drink, it is something you love and learn from.” “It is life,” adds Paulo, an associate who joined us for the conversation. Whatever wine is, it is fairly safe to say that it is currently something completely different in China than to those with a long history of producing and consuming wine. Tony wants to change all that. “We have only been importing wine for a little while, and there is still a lot of work to be done here. But everything we do is about educating people, not only about our individual products, but about everything that goes along with them.” To date he has hosted a number of tastings that sought “to introduce our wines, but also their heritage and history and what makes Italian wine so special.” This, he says, is in contrast to the French model in that, “Italian producers tend to be small, family run operations, with secrets passed down through the generations.” With such a tightly knit knowledge base, it is easy to see how it would be difficult to spread their message far and wide. But Tony says that this is a message just waiting to be heard. “Italian wines are special. They have a very good price to quality ratio, meaning that some exceptional wines are very affordable.” For now, he says, his approach to marketing his wines is similar to the way it has been produced for thousands of years. “by concentrating on small, knowledgeable and passionate distributers we want to let the wine speak for itself.”
16 myredstar.com
区，特别是位于亚得里亚海和爱奥尼亚海之间 酿酒厂所在的萨伦托，“黑曼罗酿出的葡萄酒色 深，质朴粗犷，又有点苦涩，这两种葡萄酿出 的酒都属于普利亚地区上佳的红酒。” 对于将欧洲葡萄酒引入中国的这一举 动，Tony认为一定会成为风尚标，他将致力于 发展“葡萄酒文化”，而并非只是单纯的转移 投资目标。“欧洲对于葡萄酒的热爱和了解已 有上千年的历史，而在中国却只是刚刚起步。 葡萄酒文化不仅仅是去喝还要从中体会，深入 了解。” 同行的Paulo补充道“还是一种人生之 道。”无论葡萄酒是什么，都与中国有着长期 历史的生产和消费葡萄酒者所了解的有着很大 的不同。Tony希望可以改变这一现状。 Tony说道，“在进口葡萄酒方面，我们 只是刚刚开始，还有大量的后续工作。不过我 们的主要目的不仅是推出我们独立的产品，还 要让人们去深入了解。向人们介绍我们的葡萄 酒，包括酒的历史与传统，还有为什么意大利 葡萄酒是如此的特别。与法国相比，意大利的 酿酒商趋向于小型的，家庭式的运营方式，且 代代相传。”有了如此紧密的知识体系，便能 了解他们向外深远传播是多么的困难了。 “意大利的葡萄酒是很特别的。它们有很 高的性价比，一些特别的酒价位也不会高的 离谱。未来我们期望看到它的性价比更加突 出。“通过小型、知识丰富又热情的经销商， 我们会让葡萄酒自身来证明其价值。”
wine supplement
myredstar.com 18
The Food 美食篇
Fresh and Fabulous 新鲜美味之享 New Zealand Gastronaught, Robert Oliver, tells REDSTAR why his home cuisine is something special. 名厨Robert Oliver告诉笔者新西兰美食独特之处。 What or who led you to the kitchen? My grandmother- a terrific and passionate cook- used to let me cook with her, and my mother also. My mother has fantastic multicultural food knowledge, which comes from living in different countries. I took this for granted as a child, but of course, as I grew up and became a chef, I realised that I had been bought up in an environment that had me fascinated with food. You learn so much about people and culture through their dishes and their recipes and ingredients - but also in the way that people share food. Like most New Zealanders, my parents always had a vegetable garden and my mother’s family were farmers, so food and food production were a big part of my heritage. In New Zealand and Fiji - where I grew up - we still have farm grown vegetables and fruit, fresh fish and locally sourced meat easily accessible through local markets and roadside stalls. They are both countries with agriculture as the backbone of the economy. How long have you been cooking? 18 myredstar.com
I have been cooking for all of my professional life, 30 years now. There was never anything else I wanted to do. I was bought up in New Zealand and the Pacific Islands where we have access to beautiful fresh ingredients; it’s a bit like showing a young artist a great set of paints with vibrant colours - it makes you want to paint! What do you like most about cooking with New Zealand ingredients? Freshness of flavour. I trust New Zealand food; the seafood smells and tastes like the ocean its from - clean and pure. New Zealand meat - lamb and beef – has a great farm raised flavour because they are raised in the traditional farming methods, albeit with modern efficiencies. Good food is a result of two things: good people (production and practice) and a good environment: New Zealand has both. What ingredients are available in China? Not enough! Most people know about New Zealand lamb and New Zealand Green-shell mussels, but we have so much more. There
美食篇 The Food
A lot of the very small producers in New Zealand do not have access to the China market and I wish they did. is a huge array of beautiful seafood - oysters, paua (New Zealand native black abalone - so good!), cod, shellfish. There is of course our kiwifruit, manuka honey, cheeses and milk and cream, I see New Zealand ice creams here now. That is part of my job here - to bring awareness of the food products that New Zealand can offer. We have terrific grass fed Wagyu beef, and I miss that. A lot of the very small producers in New Zealand do not have access to the China market and I wish they did as they make such unique and beautiful products - olive oils, avocadoes, apples, and wines. China is just starting to appreciate New Zealand wine and I am glad to see that. I just found a great source in Shanghai ( www.rubyreds. com.cn) and Terry from New Zealand China Direct (who is based in Qingdao) tells me that the Waitiri Creek and Waitiri Creek wines which are both awesome are available in many places in Qingdao including China Wine Club in Hisense and Wanda plazas. New Zealand China Direct and maui.com.cn both carry a good range of New Zealand foods and they have a presence in Qingdao. 187 6626-8653
从事这领域受什么影响？ 我的祖母热爱烹饪，而且 手艺很好。常常让我和她一起 烹饪。同时也深受我母亲的影 响，她在不同国家生活过， 因此掌握了多国不同的美食知 识。小时候，我没觉得这是什 么，在长大成为厨师后，我意 识到我对于烹饪的热爱，与我 的生长环境分不开。通过菜 肴、食谱、配料，你可以了解 一个民族以及他们的文化，还 有他们分享美食的方式。 如同大多数新西兰人一 样，我父母常常自己弄个小菜 园，我母亲家族那边又都是农 民，所以种植和食物已融入我 的血液。在新西兰和斐济长 大，我们一直有农场种植蔬菜 水果，新鲜鱼类和当地肉类也 很容易从市场和路边摊采购 到。这两个地方的农业都是国 家的经济支柱。 从事美食业多久了？
我整个职业生涯都在美食 业，至今已有30年，从来没有 想过做其他的事情。我在新西 兰和斐济长大，那里有烹饪所 需的各类新鲜原材料，就如向 年轻艺术家展示色彩鲜艳的画 作一样，让你更加想要绘画。 我在世界各地都工作过。 美国的纽约、拉斯维加斯、迈 阿密都留下过我的印记，还与 好莱坞女星Marisa Tomei在美 国合办餐厅。有几年时间在加 勒比为酒店打理餐厅，当然也 在新西兰和斐济工作过。现在 代表新西兰贸易和企业商会来 到中国，以提高新西兰高质量 产品在中国的认可度。 缘何选择用新西兰原料烹饪美 食？ 新鲜的味道。我信任新西 兰美食；那里的海鲜有种原始 海洋的气息---干净、纯粹； 那里的羊肉和牛肉口味纯正， 牛羊都是在大牧场通过传统 myredstar.com 19
The Food 美食篇
很多小的 新西兰食 品没有出现在中 国市场，我希望 他们将来 会有。
方式养育，同时又结合现在效 率观。优良食物的由来基于两 点：劳作人群和生长环境，这 两点新西兰都具备。 请更详细的介绍一下新西兰的 独特风味？以及它与其他地方 的不同？ 新西兰是一个年轻的 国家，我们的美食也是如 此。1000年前，我们的祖先来 到了这片土地，在此定居。而 那时的中国已经历经好几个朝 代， 菜肴品种繁多。现今的 新西兰菜肴注重原料，力求简 单。最近，新西兰在日趋壮大 的太平洋岛国中更加多元化， 也引入了更多中国和印度的美 食元素。 目前在中国的市场如何？ 还不够！大多数人知道新 西兰羊肉和新西兰绿壳贻贝， 但这仅仅是一小部分。新西兰 20 myredstar.com
海鲜品种繁多，比如牡蛎、鲍 鱼（新西兰原产黑鲍鱼）、鳕 鱼、贝类；还有猕猴桃、麦卢 卡蜂蜜、芝士、牛奶和奶油。 很开心，能在这里看到新西兰 冰淇林。这也是我目前工作的 一部分，让人们认识了解更多 的新西兰美味食品。 我们用顶级青草喂养牛 类。很多新西兰小型生产者没 有接触到中国市场，我希望他 们可以尽快把他们生产的独特 产品，如橄榄油、鳄梨、苹 果，当然还有葡萄酒引入中国 市场。我很高兴的看到，中国 市场开始接受新西兰葡萄酒， 这只是开始。我坚信新西兰出 产的葡萄酒是世界顶级的。在 上海的时候，我刚发现了一 个好地方www.rubyreds.com. cn和来自祁仪唐贸易有限公 司的Terry，从这两个地方得 到的消息看，Waitiri Creek和
Waitiri Creek两款葡萄酒已进 入青岛海信广场和万达广场的 葡萄酒专区等岛城众多零售场 所。 祁仪唐贸易有限公司和 maui.com.cn都有很多优质的 新西兰产品，假如需要请拨 打：187 6626-8653
美食篇 The Food
A dream in Cheese 芝士梦之旅
Words and images © Fanny Texier
French wine and cheese connoisseur Wuimin Wong tells us how to get the most from our taste buds. 法国葡萄酒和芝士行家Wuimin Wong告诉我们品味之道。 Who knew Qingdao had such delicious cheese to offer? Whether you are French or not, if you are looking for some luxury cheeses this giving season, France Bacchus is the ideal place to check out before you start planning your Christmas dinner. We began our fine French cheese and wine pairing experience by entering a cozy wine shop, off the beaten track, just behind Carrefour. Our whole time there was to experience a warm sense of authenticity about both the place and the people that worked there. Owner Wuimin Wong offered us many different kinds of French cheese and some absolutely delicious aged Dutch gouda that had a strong, yet delicate flavour. A nice bonus is that many of the cheeses come in various sizes depending on how stinky you want your fridge to smell! It was not surprising to hear that the founder of Beijing-based cheese company Le Fromager de Pékin spent many years training in France. You could tell the second the cheese platter was placed in front of you, from its intoxicating scent.
你知道在青岛也能享受正宗美味的芝士 吗？圣诞前夕，只要在寻找极品芝士，在规划 圣诞大餐之前，笔者极力推荐你先去France Bacchus逛逛。美味无敌，不虚此行。 我们从这里踏上了优良法国芝士和葡萄 酒搭配品味之旅。France Bacchus（法博 诗）位于香港中路家乐福北面，典雅温馨的 店内设计，热情周到的服务，专业详尽的解 答。法博诗总经理Wuimin Wong为我们提供 了各式法国芝士和绝顶美味的荷兰豪达芝士 （荷兰豪达口味较浓郁）。店内各种大小尺 寸的芝士都有，想让你的冰箱充斥着浓浓的芝 士香味，那就来一块超大的吧。 总部位于北京的芝士公司北京市乐奶酪坊 创始人在法国接受了多年的培训，听到类似的 消息并不感到惊讶。 闻香识芝士的功力非一朝一夕就可练成。 超级喜欢这里的特色芝士-灰色凝脂芝 士，这一款芝士与法国的卡门贝干酪口感相 似。配以混合月桂叶、香菜、鼠尾草、迷迭香 和百里香的普罗旺斯香草，带有丝丝咸味。山 羊芝士金字塔也是不错的选择，淡淡乳香也没 有什么酸味。多姆芝士也很棒。 myredstar.com 21
wine supplement
2
1
3
5
Their special cheese, which I personally enjoyed the most, was to die for. The Creamy grey cheese, very close to what French people call ‘camembert’, comes covered with Provence herbs (a mixture of bay leaves, parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme) and has a delicate salty taste. Another nice option was the pyramid of goat cheese, which was mild and creamy but also light with no sourness. The Tomme was just as sensational. According to Wuimin, the best white wine to accompany these cheeses is the Muscat Sec 2010, 22 myredstar.com
which is dry and not too strong. Although it smells sweet, its acidity and bitterness are balanced with a fat taste which makes it smoother. Surprisingly, says Wuimin, it also matches perfectly with spicy foods such as Sichuan cuisine. When sniffing my glass I detected strawberry, however. “The wine is best known for its white flower smell, such as jasmine,” said Wuimin. “But there are dozens of adjectives to describe the unpredictable aromas of wines. You just need to allow yourself to be creative and make a note of your initial impressions.”
Next we followed up with blue cheese that has a more complex taste. Creamy and soft, it almost sticks to the palate before deliciously melting in your mouth. An interesting white wine that would certainly accompany this cheese well is the Vin d’Alsace, Gewurztraminer 2007, a well-known dessert wine. If you like the combination of sweet and bitter, try some pieces of pears on the side. This is what makes pairing cheese and wine delicious as well as interesting and complex. Harmony should always exist between the two!
美食篇 The Food
Know Your Cheese:
4
1. Pyramid (Goat Cheese) 金字塔 2. Tomme 多姆 3. Blue Cheese 北京蓝奶酪 4. Aged Gouda 荷兰哥达奶酪 5. Mini Crottin 粪球 6. Herbs de Provence 普罗旺斯的味道
6
Although we loved the wines Wuimin specifically chose for us, keep in mind that these are just recommendations. Experiment with your own pairings and see if there’s a good combination that briefly transforms Qingdao into a beautiful French day. France Bacchus mainly sells cheese to individual customers, and often organise wine and cheese tastings. They are open 7 days a week and most of their employees speak English and enjoy sharing their expertise with you. Prices range from ¥32 to ¥210.
Wuimin介绍到，搭配此 类芝士的最佳的白葡萄酒是 2010年产的Muscat Sec，干 白色酒体，口味又非太浓。气 味芬芳，酸苦适中，口味纯 厚，口感顺滑。出乎意料的 是，Wuimin说道此款葡萄酒 也是进食辛辣食物，如川菜的 完美搭配。摇晃酒杯可以轻 嗅到草莓的气味。然而，“本 款葡萄酒最为世人所知的还是 她富含的白色花朵，如茉莉的 芬香。”Wuimin又为我们讲 解到“有太多太多的词语可以 用来形容葡萄酒摄人心脾的香 气。尽情发挥你的想象力，第 一感觉往往比较准确。”
软化，享受慢慢融化在口中 的感觉，味蕾翩翩起舞的感 觉。2007年份Vin d’Alsace, Gewurztraminer（法国阿尔 萨斯琼瑶浆）白葡萄酒可以算 是北京蓝奶酪的最佳拍档。再 搭配上梨还会有种甜中带苦的 滋味。芝士与葡萄酒的搭配既 复杂有趣又多滋多变。两者之 间的“和谐”跟“度”是很重 要的。 Wuimin帮我们挑选的葡 萄酒很受我们喜欢，但请记 住这仅仅是其的一点建议而 已。闲暇时，尝试一下自己搭 配，也许配出完美的感觉让 身在青岛的你一下子感受到 在法国的美丽一日。France Bacchus，周末不休，零售 芝士，也常组织葡萄酒和芝 士品尝鉴赏活动。France Bacchus职员都会讲英文， 喜欢和客人一起分享品尝经 验。芝士价格从32元到210元 不等。
接下来，让我们来品尝风 味复杂的北京蓝奶酪。奶香 myredstar.com 23
The Wine 美酒篇
The Best of Italy 意大利佳品 Valerio Vinci, General Manager of WinItaly and all-round connoisseur picks his favourite Italian wines for a quality dining experience. WinItaly总经理Valerio Vinci，专业品酒行家， 挑选其最钟爱的意大利葡萄酒向我们娓娓道来他的高端 餐饮体验。 What are the top 3 wines for drinking pleasure? The Barolo DOCG “Antica Torre”, which has just arrived in Qingdao. This is without a doubt one of the most prestigious Italian wines and a cornerstone of Italian oenology. Everything about it represents its nobility: from the intense, ruby red colour, to the strong scents and violet hints, to the taste, which is very harmonious and complex. I also favour the Barbera IGT Gold, one of the best sellers in Qingdao. It is very fresh, with a fruity and vinous bouquet , a shiny deep ruby-red colour, and a persistent flavour with the aroma of berries. For whites, I would choose the Pinot Grigio DOC Platinum. It has a faint yellow colour with a brown gloss, a refreshing and delicate fruity taste and a delightful aftertaste of green apple. What would you recommend for wine food pairing? If salmon sashimi and spicy clams are on the menu, I’d recommend the Spumante Brut Gold: an apparently surprising choice my guests never regret. A fantastic red wine that would certainly 24 myredstar.com
accompany steak and red meat in general is the Barbera DOC Platinum. Deep rubyred colour with pomegranate glints, full bodied with aromatic hints of over-ripe fruit (prune, and dried fig) and vanilla due to the maturation in oak barrels. The flavour is intense, persistent, and mellow with a balanced presence of tannin. Our newly arrived Recioto di Soave DOCG “Il Mondello” is a perfect match for pan fried goose liver (it is similar to Sauternes, which is the best choice for fois gras) but is also a fantastic dessert wine. This great wine is clear and golden in colour and the the nose is intense, fruity, fresh with hints of honey, toasted almonds and vanilla. The taste is velvety, rich, and buttery with clear hints of honey offering a wellbalanced aftertaste. What’s Special About Your Sparkling Wine? Our Spumante Brut is different from other sparkling you might have tried before: it is fruity, with some note of bread-crust, neither too sweet nor too dry, and this makes it versatile, as aperitif or whole-meal wine. On top of that, for the coming months, we will have a promotion: buy 2 cases of 6 bottles, and the third is free. Salute a tutti!
美酒篇 The Wine
请推荐三款你最钟爱的葡萄 酒？ 首先，我第一个要推荐 的是用内比奥罗葡萄生产的 Antica Torre Barolo DOCG (“安蒂卡托尔”巴罗洛 DOCG干红) 葡萄酒。刚刚到 店的一款葡萄酒。毫无疑问， 此款是意大利最富盛名的葡萄 酒，也是意大利酿酒产业的基 石。星星点点都透露着贵族气 息：耀眼的宝石红、暗含紫罗 兰的香气、口感顺滑。建议品 尝之前，先醒酒一小时，让葡 萄酒充分的呼吸空气，然后就 请尽情享受美酒了。 其次我要推荐，Barbera IGT “Gold”Winitaly (金牌巴 贝拉干红葡萄酒)。深红宝石 色，并有石榴红光泽，浓郁持 久，醇厚的葡萄和果香。
最后，我选择Pinot Grigio DOC“Platinum”Winitaly (白 金级干白葡萄酒)，我最喜欢 的白葡萄酒。色泽淡黄略有棕 色光泽，带有“金冠”苹果的 回甘味，芳香持久，精妙的口 感令人感到心情愉悦。 开胃菜，尤其是三文 鱼刺身和辣蛤蜊，我推荐 搭配Spumante Brut metodo Charmat“Gold”Winitaly (金 牌干肃坦特汽泡酒) 。 一支好的Barbera DOC“Platinum”Winitaly (白金巴贝垃干红)红葡萄酒是 安格斯式牛排和红肉的好搭 档。深红宝石色，并有石榴红 光泽，醇厚的葡萄及果香（李 子，无花果）与橡木桶存储所 带来的香草味道完全融合。口 味浓郁、持久、圆润。店内新
到的Recioto di Soave DOCG “Il Mondello”(“蒙德罗”蕊 乔托 D.O.C.G 甜葡萄酒) ，是 甜点和煎鹅肝的最佳拍档。这 款葡萄酒口感爽滑纯厚，色泽 金黄，气味浓郁，果香纯正， 暗含蜂蜜、烤杏仁和香草的回 甘味。 能介绍一下店内的汽泡酒吗？ 地道。我们的汽泡酒跟您 以前喝的不同，浅黄色，香气 纯久，很容易联想起香脆、金 黄的面包外皮，带有杏仁的 香甜回甘味。我们Spumante Brut metodo Charmat“Gold” Winitaly对外批发的价格是98 元，目前我们正有一个促销活 动买两箱共六瓶，送一箱。是 婚礼、生日、庆典必备美酒。
myredstar.com 25
wine supplement
27 myredstar.com
wine supplement
myredstar.com 28
The Wine 美酒篇
Know your Claret from your Beaujolais 火眼金睛识好酒 As European wine becomes ever more fashionable in China, fake wines are becoming more and more of a problem. 欧洲葡萄酒在国内掀起一轮高过一轮的热 潮，假葡萄酒的问题也日趋严重 The best wines are expensive the world over. According to wine.com, a 2000 Chateau Lafite Rothschild retails at around $2500, with earlier vintages costing even more. In China, demand for this über fashionable label is such that prices are even higher. And, just as with designer watches, bags or clothes, these are the perfect ingredients for the creation of a new industry: an industry of fakes and counterfeits. Dale Lam heads up Gourmet Passion, a Qingdao importer of Spanish wines and food. He says that fake wines are rife in China and that the counterfeit industry is capitalising on current trends. About Chateau Lafite, he says: “It is more like a brand now. Because of the prestige 28 myredstar.com
associated with its name; despite the fact that it is only an estate, it has become a brand.” Like all top brands, when something is desirable, people want it and will pay for it. Dale says that “many consumers in China don’t really care about prices as a lot of purchases are for gifting and companies.” It is not the wine that is desired, it is the act of owning and gifting it. Dale is quick to point out that “fake is a strong word for what is happening in China. The wine is still wine, it is just not the wine you are paying for, the labels or the bottles are faked.” He says that in the case of Chateau Lafite “the best fakes will look the part, will have the five arrows logo of the Rothschild family on the label, but the wine will be from some new world appellations where
the Rothschild family own wineries, such as South America. It may even come from estates in France which are owned by the Rothschild family, just not from Chateau Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac, Bordeaux.” Less good fakes will have labelling errors, such as spelling mistakes or inaccuracies in the French or English text. But if the label is good, how can you really tell that you have bought a fake? Dale says that the best way to spot a fake is the price. “You have to know the price of the bottle at source; taxation adds to the price, plus the cost of running a business here. If you know what you’re buying and it costs less than the source price plus costs, then it’s a fake.”
美酒篇 The Wine
众所周知，全球各地的好 葡萄酒都价格不菲。 据wine.com统计，2000年 Chateau Lafite Rothschild红葡 萄酒零售价在2500美元左右， 年份越早价格越昂贵。在中 国，这个标签的葡萄酒价格更 贵。就如，名牌手表、包包、 服饰一样，这些都是建造一 个新兴产业--假货和冒牌工 业，必不可少的元素。 Dale Lam是 青 岛 西 班 牙 葡萄酒和食品进口商Gourmet Passion创始人。他说，假葡 萄酒在中国很盛行，造假行业 紧跟流行趋势。对于Chateau Lafite而言，“它就像一个全 新的品牌，因为这个名字就是 她的声望所在。即便这只是一 个酒庄名称，但已然成为一个 品牌。”像所有顶级品牌一 样，人们渴望得到，就愿意为 此付出金钱。Dale认为“中国 的许多消费者对于价格并不十 分在意，多数是作为馈赠购买 或者是公司大量采购。”这就 不是真正的好酒者，而是别有 用途的行为。” 同时，Dale也指出“假冒 在中国是一个很严肃的词汇。 虽然葡萄酒还是葡萄酒，但却 与你所支付的价格不成比例， 标签或者酒瓶是伪造的。”以 Chateau Lafite为例，“最好的 假货拥有完美的外观，标识 上带有拉菲家族的经典五箭标 志，但是葡萄酒来自拉菲家族 在其他国家（如南非）所经营 的酒庄，也可能是来自法国由 Rothschild家族经营的酒庄， 但都不是来自波尔多波亚克的 Chateau Lafite Rothschild。” 再差些的假酒，酒标上会 有错误出现，如拼写错误，不 正确的法语或者英文。但是如
果标签没有错误，如何辨别真 假？本质上来说，直到打开酒 瓶，品尝后才可做最终判断， 但为时已晚。Dale向笔者介绍 了鉴别假酒的最佳途径是：价
格。“你要了解酒源地该瓶酒 的价格，所有税收和商业运营 费用。如果售价低于酒源地价 格加各类费用之和，那么这肯 定是假酒。”
A Taste of Spain
Gourmet Passion imports food and wine from Spain, with years of experience in importing European wine and food. Why this new focus on Spain? “We’ve always found Spain has more to offer in terms of passion and style, and is a better fit for Chinese consumers - Spanish food and wine is sweeter, and closer to Chinese food than French.” It is better value too, especially than French imports which are “too often considered ‘luxury items’”. Available from Gourmet Passion: Spanish Jamon, Chorizo Lomo sausages, Salchichon, olives, Rioja and Cava. For further details: gourmetpassion.es; 186 6022-5559.
品味西班牙
Gourmet Passion，西班牙食品和葡萄酒进口商。Dale从事 欧洲葡萄酒和食品进口工作多年，“Gourmet Passion越发觉得 西班牙的美食和品位带给我越来越多的惊喜。更适于中国消费 者，口味稍甜，与法国食品相比，更接近中国美食。”与法国进 口食品昂贵的售价相比，西班牙食品的价位也更趋于合理。 Gourmet Passion所售产品有：西班牙火腿，香肠，橄 榄，里奥哈，气泡酒。更多信息，请联系186 6022-5559, gourmetpassion.es
myredstar.com 29
The Knowledge 知识篇
Close, but No Cigar 一招不慎，满盘皆输
Beijing Blogger, Jim Boyce, tells REDSTAR that whilst Shandong might produce the most wine, it doesn’t necessarily produce the best wine. In his opinion. 北京博客写手Jim Boyce向红星读者讲述自己的观点， 或许山东有能力生产最棒的葡萄酒，但确实没有必要这 么做。
S
handong holds the seat of power when it comes to wine in China. It easily outperforms every other province and region - from Xinjiang to Hebei to Liaoning - in terms of wine production. It is home to an experienced wine work force. It offers ports for those who wish to import bulk wine from Chile, Spain and Australia, mix it with local output, and bottle the blend under Chinese labels. And perhaps most importantly, it provides good access from its east coast location to the vast majority of the country’s wine consumers. Shandong also has some historical bragging rights, at least in the modern wine era, as Chang Bishi set up the now-massive operation Changyu here in 1892.It holds much promise for wine 30 myredstar.com
tourism given this history, its annual harvest festivals and its growing number of extravagant, and at times over-the-top, wineries with amenities that range from tasting rooms to restaurants to golf courses. And it is home to high-profile projects: Chateau Lafite, the most famous foreign wine brand in China, is working with CITIC on a vineyard here. Shandong has a great deal going for it. But one thing it doesn’t have – or at least hasn’t demonstrated yet – is an ability to consistently make good wine. Most wine experts I talk to consider Shandong far from ideal and cite issues such as excess rainfall and humidity that can lead to vineyard diseases and, in turn, heavy spraying with fungicides. The resulting quality issues can be compounded by practices
such as picking the grapes too early. Some operations are working on improving quality, and Huadong and Treaty Port have been cited as examples. For others, perhaps there has been a lack of urgency given that many consumers in China do not buy wine based on taste but on an association with wealth and sophistication, perceived health benefits, and brand names. But the China wine market is rapidly changing. Good inexpensive imported wine is pouring in. Consumers are gaining more experience and, in some cases, becoming more demanding. And the rapid growth of the market has new producers popping up throughout the country and creating competition for the established ones. While Shandong still rules
美酒篇 The Wine
山东占据国内葡萄酒的头 把交椅。在葡萄酒生产方面， 山东轻而易举的战胜了从新疆 到河北到辽宁一线。山东有经 验丰富的酿酒团队。为那些想 从智利、西班牙和澳大利亚进 口散装葡萄酒，与当地葡萄酒 混合，再装瓶贴上中国标签的 人们提供了口岸。更为重要的 是，东海岸的独特地理位置， 方便向各个地方输出。 当然，山东在葡萄酒历 史，至少是现代葡萄酒方面也 有一定的吹嘘优势--张弼士 于1892年在此创建了驰名品牌 张裕葡萄酒。鉴于这段历史， 山东的葡萄酒旅游业也得以发 展，每年的葡萄收获节，布局 奢侈舒适的酒庄，配有品酒 室、餐厅、高尔夫球场。还有 很多高端项目，如拉菲酒庄（ 享誉中国的国外著名葡萄酒品 牌）与中信华东（集团）有限 公司携手合作在此建造酒庄。 山东在葡萄酒方面占有很 大优势，但是有一点却是山东
所不具备的，或者至少现在还 没有被证明，这就是一如始终 的酿造好葡萄酒。关于山东与 理想酿酒城市这个问题，我与 葡萄酒专家讨论过，大多数专 家认为：过多的降雨和过于潮 湿会导致葡萄植株染病，这又 导致杀菌剂的过多使用。由此 产生的质量问题在现实中就会 变得更加复杂，如过早采摘葡 萄。如华东和登龙红酒已采取 某些实际操作，来提高质量。 对于其他酒庄而言，似乎还没 有意识到这个问题，因为中国 消费者目前购买葡萄酒并非基 于品质，而是在于财富象征和 社交关系，以及对健康的好处 和品牌效应。 但是中国的葡萄酒市场瞬 息万变。大量涌入的物美价 廉的进口葡萄酒，让消费者购 买葡萄酒的经验剧增，同时对 于品质的要求也越来越高。快 速增长的市场需求，让越来越 多的全国各企业涉足葡萄酒行 业，给原有企业带来了一定的 冲击。但在规模上，与陕西、
宁夏、新疆相比，山东仍旧占 据西北头把交椅。同样，陕 西、宁夏、新疆也面临一定的 困难，如距离消费市场较远、 如何使葡萄安然过冬。但是， 他们正一步一个脚印的赶超上 来，所酿造的葡萄酒清新宜 人，品质在国内数一数二。 山西怡园酒庄是此次潮流 的领军人物。虽然其他企业也 能一直或者一段时间产出相对 优良的葡萄酒，但是怡园酒庄 在品质方面十年如一日，一枝 独秀。出产的葡萄酒品类有： 霞多丽、赤霞珠、桃乐丝葡萄 酒，价位从60元到488元（顶 级葡萄酒--怡园庄主珍藏） 每瓶不等；精选系列有，188 元每瓶起的精选干红、干白葡 萄酒；珍藏系列有，188元每 瓶起的丽珠红葡萄酒。 在附 近的宁夏和陕西也有葡萄种植 园。由Torres China经销。 宁夏贺兰山酒厂是众多中 外合资酒庄中的佼佼者。在全 球第三大优质葡萄酒酿造和经 myredstar.com 31
The Knowledge 知识篇
in terms of size, the biggest quality gains are being made in the northwest, in spots such as Shanxi, Ningxia and Xinjiang. These areas also face challenges, whether it is distance to market or the need to bury vines in the winter to protect them from harsh cold. But they are slowly compiling a track record of making clean and pleasant wines that are arguably the nation’s best. The leader of this movement is Grace Vineyard in Shanxi. While some operations might make one consistently good wine, or perhaps a handful for a few years, family-owned Grace stands alone in producing a quality portfolio for almost a decade. That portfolio ranges from Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rose from ¥60 per bottle to the top-flight Chairman’s Reserve at ¥488. The premium level, from ¥118, includes CabernetMerlot and Chardonnay, while the Tasya’s Reserve level, from ¥188, features an interesting Cabernet Franc. Grace is looking ahead with its experimental vineyards in nearby Shaanxi and Ningxia. The wines are distributed here by Torres China. Among the more successful foreign-local hookups in China is Domaine Helan Mountain in Ningxia. With investment and technical help from global drinks giant Pernod Ricard, this operation produces about 32 myredstar.com
a million bottles per year of easy-to-drink wine. The Special Reserve wines retail for ¥228 though there is good value with the Winemakers Selection series, particularly the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, at less than ¥100. Look for the team in Ningxia to introduce a Pinot Noir as early as next year.
Sauvignon for ¥298. The company plans to boost quality next year with closer control of the harvest and it may also introduce a singlevineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from a separate operation found near the Gobi desert. Sunshine Valley wines are distributed by Globus (infobj@globus-wine.com).
Silver Heights in Ningxia is a small family-owned winery that popped onto the scene with its impressive inaugural vintage - 2007 - of Bordeauxstyle wines. Production is small, with just over 10,000 bottles of the top labels Family Reserve and The Summit planned for this year, and those wines haven’t come cheap at ¥276 and ¥416 respectively, but they are worth tracking down. Silver Heights is distributed by Torres China.
Helan Qing Xue in Ningxia became an overnight international sensation a few months ago when its Jia Bei Lan 2009 Cabernet beat hundreds of wines to become the first Chinese wine to win an “international trophy” from British magazine Decanter. Of course, Jia Bei Lan did not come out of thin air, but resulted from a joint venture between a wine industry association and private individuals, with arguably the country’s best wine consultant providing advice, and years of work. While the wine retails for about ¥220 in Ningxia, this operation does not yet have a China distributor. When it does, expect the list price of Helan Qing Xue to be much higher.
Sunshine Valley in Gansu is a new brand from Moen Estate, a project that pairs local wine operation Mogao with Enos Partners of Greece. The company released its first wines this year, a Pinot Noir for ¥198 and a Cabernet
知识篇 The KNOWLEDGE
销商法国保乐力加的资金投资 和技术支持下，该酒庄每年出 产约一百万瓶葡萄酒。美域珍 藏系列零售价228元每瓶，可 谓物超所值。特别是2008年的 赤霞珠干红葡萄酒，售价低于 100元。期待宁夏酒庄最早与 明年投入生产的黑比诺。
醇客》杂志主办的世界葡萄酒 大奖赛，“中东、远东和亚洲 地区售价在10英镑以上红葡萄 酒”金奖。藉此贺兰晴雪酒庄 一夜成名，也成为第一个获得 国际性奖项的国产葡萄酒。当 然，加贝兰的获奖不是因为产 地的稀薄空气，而是因为葡萄 酒协会和个人间的紧密合作，
全国最好的葡萄酒顾问提供咨 询，成年累月不间断的努力工 作。在宁夏该葡萄酒售价约 220元每瓶，目前还未有全国 分销商。待有经销商时，售价 会大幅提高。
宁夏小家族式银色高地酒 庄，凭借其首次出产的葡萄佳 酿--2007年类似于波尔多红 的葡萄酒，进入人们视线。产 量不大，今年预计出产高档产 品家族珍藏（276元）和阙歌 干红（416元）1000多瓶，售 价不低。但是值得一品。由 Torres China经销。 莫恩酒业在甘肃的旭源葡 萄酒是一个新兴品牌，由当地 生产商莫高和希腊Enos合作出 品。今年该公司酿造的第一批 葡萄酒上市，旭源2009黑品 诺，售价198元每瓶，旭源赤 霞珠干红葡萄酒，售价298元 每瓶。计划在来年通过详尽监 控收获环节，更进一步提高葡 萄酒品质，也有计划在戈壁沙 漠附近新开辟一块单独的赤霞 珠葡萄园。由Globus经销。更 多信息请咨询infobj@globuswine.com 宁夏的贺兰晴雪酒庄出品 的2009加贝兰葡萄酒（波尔多 式混酿）一举获得由英国《品 myredstar.com 33
The Wine 美酒篇
the secret things, the things you love on holiday because you know you will never find them in a supermarket at home.
Sublime Spanish Sensations people who value Spanish food over all others. He says that his company caters to this “world of sensations, opening a bridge between China and Europe to bring the unique the best European products to the Chinese consumer.”
Extra Virgin Olive Oil Gourmet Passion’s olive oil is sourced from the finest groves in Spain through a mechanical processes that extracts only the oily juice of a fruit. Dale says that “under the right circumstances, olive oil is practically the only oil that can be consumed as is obtained from the fruit; good preparation sees that the oil retains its natural flavour and all the healthy goodness of this miraculous fruit.” Indeed, the consumption of olive oil as part of their every day diets is widely considered by scientists as to be a fundamental reason why Mediterranean people live for so long.
When he talks about these ‘best European products’ he his discussing the kind of produces that are of, “limited production, those little gems produced by family businesses that are little known outside their immediate locale.” These are
Jamón Ibérico de Bellota Hailing from Salamanca, this Iberian ham is a pleasure to see, smell and taste. Cured exclusively from the black Iberian pig it is particular to the south and west of Spain and is a speciality of the region. It is produced
品味西班牙 When you think of Spain, what flavours spring to mind? Perhaps it is deep, salty tang of wafer thin slices of Ibérico ham, or the sweet fragrance of tomato and olive oil. For wine lovers, the sensation you maybe salivating over is the promise of a deep spicy Rioja, or the sharp fizz of an ice cold Cava. Whatever your imaginings, Spain is a culinary spectacle of rich intense flavours and cooking that some would risk the bull for. Gourmet Passion was set up by Dale Lam specifically to meet the flavourial needs of 34 myredstar.com
He says that “all our products are the result of traditional know-how and the experience of farmers and vintners, fishermen and artisans who for generations have passed on their legacy to bring delicacies with an honest, authentic taste of the highest quality to our table.”
美食篇 美酒篇 The TheFood Wine
from piglets that have been fattened on a diet of barley and maize before being allowed to roam in pasture and oak groves to feed naturally on grass, herbs, acorns and roots until it is nearly time for slaughter, at which point they are fed exclusively on acorns - in the case of the best jamón ibérico. After slaughter, the hams are then salted and left to begin drying for two weeks, after which they are rinsed and left to dry for another four to six weeks. Gourmet Passion also has a range of both Spanish and French wines, is a supplier of King Crab and Salmon as well as Brandy and a range of fruity wine alternatives. For further details: gourmetpassion.es 186 6022-5559
西班牙会让人联想到什 么？是薄薄切片的黑猪伊比利 火腿？还是香气盎然的番茄 和橄榄油？对于喜好葡萄酒的 人，西班牙弥漫着Rioja浓烈的 酒香味道、充满着冰凉气泡酒 的滋滋声。即使发挥你天马行 空的想象力，西班牙依然会带 来不一样的惊喜。 Dale Lam成立的Gourmet Passion公司，主要为西班 牙美食美酒狂热者服务，满 足他们蠢蠢欲动的味蕾。公 司的宗旨是“品味世界，在 中国和欧洲之前搭起一座桥 梁，让中国消费者有机会品 尝到顶级欧洲产品。” Dale Lam口中的“顶级 欧洲产品”是“鲜为外人所 知的家族企业出产的限量高 品质产品”。他们是度假时 候的最爱，因为你 知道这在本地超市 根本买不到。 Dale Lam 介绍到“我们 引进的产品来 自那些使用传 统秘方、拥有 丰富经验，世
代从事这一行当的农民、酒 商、渔民和技工。他们用心制 作，把食物最完美的一面展现 出来，呈献给我们的是原汁原 味的美味佳肴、精美纯酿。” 特级初榨橄榄油 Gourmet Passion的橄榄 油，原料油橄榄果来自西班牙 最好的果园，经物理冷压后， 油水自然分离的果油。Dale 介绍到“在正常情况下，是 世界上唯一可以直接饮用的 植物油、纯天然的果汁；完 全保存了天然营养成分、脂 溶性维生素、不饱和脂肪酸 同时又不含胆固醇。” 事实 上，科学家也证实了地中海 居民广泛食用橄榄油和其延 延益寿有一定关系。 西班牙手工切片伊比利火腿 来自Salamanca的伊比利 火腿色香味俱全。肉质选自西 班牙南部和西部特有的伊比利 黑猪，伊比利火腿是该区的特 产。伊比利小黑猪仔，初期 以大麦和玉米为食，之后放 养于牧场和橡树林吃野草、 野生的香草、橡树果和树 根，等到快要屠宰的时候， 伊比利猪会大量食用橡子，这 是是伊比利猪肉和伊比利火腿 特有的榛子芳香的由来。屠宰 后，猪腿以很多的粗海盐覆盖 腌制约十四天，之后火腿要洗 净、晾干，这大概还需要四至 六星期。 除西班牙和法国葡萄酒在 Gourmet Passion有售外，还 出售帝王蟹、三文鱼、白兰地 和各种果味葡萄酒。 更多信息: gourmetpassion.es 186 6022-5559
myredstar.com 35
The Wine 美酒篇
The New Wine in Town
葡萄酒新军 Fanny Texier
Qingdao Great River Hill Winery General Manager Sandy Cheng and Vineyard manager Chloe Simon talk to Fanny Texier about their upcoming ventures… 青岛大好河山葡萄酒业有限公司总经理 Sandy Cheng和葡萄园经理Chloe Simon向 笔者介绍企业未来发展方向。 Your Winery was created only 3 years ago… Our winery project started in 2008. The owner, Dr Karl Heinz Hauptmann, already had wineries in Bulgaria and Romania before he began his venture in China. At a dinner in Shanghai, he thought that the wine his friend ordered was too expensive, given its quality. Then he did some research on the best place to make wine in China and heard about Shandong Province. After a lot of investigation, he decided to establish his first winery at Nine Peaks Mountain, in Laixi. The first phase of plantation 36 myredstar.com
was on a 16 hectare piece of land in 2009. We should be able to bottle our wine in a few months. Why grow wine almost two hours away from Qingdao? Shandong Province has the same latitude as Portugal, so it has perfect weather conditions to grow wine. Plus, our site has a lot of stones and other mineral elements that help the soil breathe. We also have a river behind our winery. It is supposed to give more light and sunshine to our grapes due to reflection. The water brings energy and balances the climate. The
fact that we are close to a hill helps filter the water out at a fast pace during the intense rain season. These are just a few of the reasons why it wasn’t possible for us to locate in Qingdao. What kind of wine making process do you follow? We basically follow the ‘Old World’ tradition. The selected grape plantlets are imported from France and planted under the guidance of master experts from Bordeaux. Every grape-tree will get the best result from a traditional French vintage process. We are lucky to be in
美酒篇 The Wine
贵公司成立于三年前… 这个项目开始于2008年。 挚爱葡萄酒的德国人KarlHeinz Hauptmann博士继在 保加利亚和罗马尼亚成功打造 了优秀的葡萄酒庄园后，又展 现出要做中国最优秀葡萄酒 庄园的雄心壮志。有次在上 海用餐，他认为朋友点的中国 葡萄虽然酒品很好,但是价格 太贵了。之后，他对中国最适 合酿造葡萄酒的地方做了些调 查工作，得出结论山东省是比 较适合项目发展的省份。经 过多次勘察论证，Karl-Heinz Hauptmann博士将他在中国 的第一个葡萄酒庄园建在了青 岛市莱西武备镇的一块风水宝 地——九顶山。酒庄第一期工 程已经完成700亩种植园的开 发，相信不久的将来，我们就 可以酿出第一瓶美酒。 为什么选在离青岛有两小时路 程的莱西？ 山东省同葡萄牙纬度一 样，因此这里有很适合葡萄
the hands of Marc Dworkin, a French winemaker with 25 years’ experience. Excellent Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were planted in May 2009. In the next 2 years, more than 84 hectares of Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier and Mourvèdre will be planted. How do you think the Chinese market will react to your wine? We think the reaction will be positive. Thanks to its heavy taste, our wine matches perfectly with spicy Chinese food such as Sichuan style cuisine. It creates a very
生长的气候条件。此外，葡萄 园的泥土石头和其他矿物元素 众多，可以帮助土壤呼吸。葡 萄园后面还有一条河，由于光 线反射的原因，葡萄园能得到 更多的光照。河流可以带来更 多能源，也起到平衡气候的作 用。而且葡萄园靠山顶，在雨 季有一定的泄洪作用。种植葡 萄的不利因素却寥寥无几。 请问你们采取什么样的酿酒程 序？ 基本上是遵循“旧世界” 葡萄酒酿造传统。精选的葡萄 植株是从法国进口的，在波尔 多专家的指导下种植，每株葡 萄树在法国传统种植方法的培 育下争取收获最棒的葡萄。也 很庆幸能和从业25年的法国 酿酒师Marc Dworkin先生合 作。2009年5月种植了赤霞珠 葡萄，接下来的两年时间里， 将种植多达84公顷的赤霞珠、 梅乐、霞多丽、维欧尼和慕合 怀特。
balanced sensation on the tongue. One can feel dark berries, because of its strong and complex taste. Its quality is very impressive, not only is it very fruity, but it is also a healthy wine. Compared to most Chinese wines, ours is really smooth, it doesn’t give you the bad reaction from your stomach due to the alcohol. That is why people will quickly learn to trust our product. What are your plans for the future? We should have 60,000 bottles on the market next year, so we are really excited.
预测一下贵公司出产的葡萄酒 在中国市场的反应？ 会有积极反响。国人口味 较重，而我们的葡萄酒可以很 好的和川菜等辛辣菜系搭配， 口感绝佳。因葡萄酒浓厚、多 变的口感，有品尝黑色浆果的 感觉。酒品也很好，不但果香 浓郁，而且是健康酒。与其他 国产酒对比可见，我们产的葡 萄酒口感更为顺滑，酒精不会 给胃带来刺激。这些是我们赢 取客户信任的基石。 未来计划如何？ 明年将有六万瓶葡萄酒投 入市场，这点让我们很激动。 我们可以试水当地市场，看市 场反应如何。也希望可以尽快 完成酒庄的建设，整体为中世 纪地中海风格，届时也将举办 一些葡萄酒品鉴活动。坚信我 们将在中国大获成功。我们今 年的葡萄就大丰收，希望明年 会有美酒呈现给大家。再耐心 等待六个月吧！
We want to test the local market and see how it goes. We are also hoping to finish the construction of our building very soon. It will be built in an Italian style and some wine tastings will be organised there. We think this will all be very successful in China. The harvest this year was quite triumphant, so hopefully next year we can offer genuinely good wine. But we still need to wait for 6 more months! Email chloe@greatriverhill.com for more information.
myredstar.com 37
The food 美食篇
Trattoria Verde
北绿岛意大利 名菜餐厅 Tim Lyddiatt
67A Zhangzhou Road 8589-8530 漳州路67号甲 When REDSTAR visited, early on a blustery November Wednesday, the table at which we were seated was the only table not prebooked in advance. The place was rammed, with all its tables filled with happy smiling faces, digging in to steaming bowls of pasta, or getting stuck in to the generous baskets of freshly baked bread. The menu, though extensive, is paired to down to Italian essentials. A starter of Bruschetta came replete with crunchy bread and ruby red tomato, fresh basil and just enough olive oil - something that is very easy to overdo. It was delicious. Similarly, a simple salad of rocket and parmesan was perfectly seasoned and tasted as fresh and clean as an alpine stream. 38 myredstar.com
These are both Italian classics and were executed with confidence and precision. Mains are divided into the triptych of Italian cuisine: Pizza, pasta and meat or fish dishes. The pizzas are made fresh to order in an open kitchen that shows off the skills of their huge team. In fact, it is a favourite pastime of this author to watch as the bases are transformed from solid mounds of dough into the light crispy bases that arrive at the table. What the chefs lack in flair, they make up for is gentility of touch; these bases are not thrown or spun around like an errant Frisbee, instead they are gently cajoled and caressed into shape. Spellbinding. But tonight we would be having pasta; me
a Carbonara, and my companion a ravioli of spinach and ricotta in a gentle tomato sauce. Of the two, the ravioli won out; the freshly made pasta retained its bite, before softly segueing into its rich, creamy contents. The Carbonara was as creamy as it should be, was perfectly cheesed and seasoned, but lacked the smoky richness of long cured Pancetta. Given that we are in China not Naples, I can hardly hold this against them. Both were delicious and disappeared in a trice. The dessert menu is short, but well executed. An affogato was homemade and its shot of espresso fresh brewed and dispensed at the table. The resulting ooze was both sweet and bitter. Heavenly. A layer cake came with a maple syrup sauce and managed to satisfy even the sweetest tooth of my companion. Trattoria Verde also has an extensive wine list but, on this occasion (a school night) we opted for half-litre carafe of their house red. It’s good, and very well priced. The same house red is also available by the glass, but is not as good value. With attentive service and a warm homely atmosphere, Trattoria Verde is a great way to cheer up even the coldest midweek suppertime.
美食篇 The food
红星笔者在11月某个狂风 大作的周三前往北绿岛时，餐 厅中仅剩一张未预定的桌子。 整个餐厅满是就餐的客人， 大家笑逐颜开，或细细品尝着 意大利面，或咀嚼着美味的烤 面包。 菜单上内容丰富，向下浏 览便是配套的意式前菜。从酥 脆可口的意式烤面包和红彤彤 的番茄，到新鲜罗勒和适量的 橄榄油。再到风味十足的沙拉 和帕尔玛干酪，清新的味道犹 如阿尔卑斯山上吹来的徐徐微 风。老练精确的烹饪技巧与意 式经典完美融合。 主菜分为三种意式菜肴： 比萨，意大利面和肉或鱼类拼
盘。比萨均是现点现做，开放 式厨房将北绿岛厨师队伍的技 巧一览无遗的展现给众人。事 实上，笔者对从生面团烤制成 酥脆的面饼再送上餐桌这一过 程看的是饶有兴趣。制作时大 厨们并不是胡乱一甩，而是仔 细轻巧的将面饼制作成型。引 人入胜。 不过这一餐，笔者和朋友 们选择了意大利面：掩肉鸡 蛋汁意大利面和新鲜番茄汁 菠菜瑞科塔奶酪饺子。一轮 比较之后，饺子完胜；意面 虽然咬劲十足，还有满满的 芝士味道，不过掩肉的味道 稍过浓重，能在中国吃到这 种味道已经很不错了。两盘 美味很快就下肚了。
甜点菜单短小精悍，香草 冰激凌配浓缩咖啡，一杯意式 浓缩浇在上面，香浓的味道弥 漫整张桌子。此时的冰激凌甜 中略带苦涩，味道太棒了。 还有那满是枫糖浆的千层奶 油派亦是香甜可口。 到了北绿岛自然还要品尝 一下他们的葡萄酒，这次笔 者们点的是半升红酒，味美 价廉。 服务周到且充满了温馨家 庭氛围的北绿岛意大利名菜餐 厅可谓是就餐的好去处。
myredstar.com 39
The food 美食篇
There’s a village in at the base of a hill in Laoshan, and a family there has a farm with around 10 cows and 50 sheep. I went weekly and got 25kg of milk from each. With the cows milk I make a mozzarella and sheep milk, feta. 5000 years ago, Egyptians started making cheese. Nowadays we use rennet from a baby cow’s fourth stomach, a complex of enzymes that digests milk and separates it into curds and whey. We have to buy that from the US. You need good milk - it has to be fresh, it can’t be from the supermarket. We use our cheese in our pizza, greek salad, and sell it. La Villa owner Lao Zhang on making his own cheese images © marc montebello
崂山脚下一个小村庄 里，那里有个家庭 小农场，大约有10头牛和50头 羊。每周我都过去采购25公斤牛 奶、25公斤羊奶。然后用牛奶做 莫泽雷勒干酪、羊奶做羊乳酪。 5000年前，埃及人就开始制 作芝士。现今的制作方法是用小 牛第四个胃室的胃膜，它含有各 类酵素可分解原奶，分离成凝乳 和乳清。这些我们只能从美国购 买。目前在中国制作芝士多数采 用菌种发酵，这样制成的芝士口 感略带苦味。高质量、新鲜的原 奶也很重要。(超市中销售的奶不 可选择)我每周采购的鲜奶，广泛 用于拉维拉餐厅的披萨、希腊沙 拉等中，有时也对外销售。
5 Xianggang Zhong Lu 8388-6833 香港中路5号 40 myredstar.com
拉维拉店主老张开启手 工芝士新篇章
美食篇 The food
提到巧克力，其实我们主 要是在谈论两个国家的巧克 力：比利时、瑞士。他们各自 有各自忠实的粉丝，各自的知 名品牌。巧克力狂热者大多来 自佛兰德斯。原因何在？青岛 当地巧克力商Wilfred向我们 娓娓道来，“比利时巧克力， 纯正的可可口味，制作过程中 完全不用植物起酥油”。 可 可粉、糖、可可脂按不同比 例混合制作出不同口感的巧克 力。美味！
images © Fanny Texier
Chocolate Paradise 巧克力天堂
Imagine if real Belgian Chocolates were produced in Qingdao… If you are talking chocolate, you are talking only about two countries: Belgium or Switzerland. Certainly Croatia doesn’t get a look in. Whilst both have their fans - and famous brands - the true chocoholic generally comes down on the side of Flanders. Why so, well Wilfred, Qingdao’s very own
resident Chocolatier, says it’s because Belgium chocolate “has a pure cocoa flavour, made possible because no vegetable shortening is used in its production.” It is unadulterated then, purely and simply the traditional mix of cocoa paste, sugar and cocoa butter in varying proportions. Yum.
Wilfred巧克力的制作原 料进口自比利时。Wilfred向 笔者介绍到“黑比利时巧克 力，可可脂含量最高；牛奶巧 克力，可可与牛奶之间的香味 达到一个完美平衡；白巧克力 不含可可粉的巧克力。纯可可 脂是必不可少的原料。” Wilfred生产各类巧克 力，总有一款适合你。
Wilfred, who produces his chocolate lovingly at home continues, saying: “Dark Belgian chocolate uses the most cocoa, milk chocolate mixes in milk, and white chocolate is made be extracting only the butter from the cocoa. Pure cocoa butter is the fundamental ingredient.” Wilfred produces a range of chocolates that will meet the needs of even the sweetest tooth. 186 2689-0607 myredstar.com 41
毛伊渔网
maui
www.maui.com.cn
Christmas Special Only available until Dec 24
买二送一
Buy Two Get One Free
Amber Hills
(Equal or Lesser Value)
Amber Hills
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
Pinot Noir Central Otago
￥188
￥228
新西兰葡萄酒 New Zealand Wine
Quality Imported Meats, Seafood, Wine & Beer from Maui
青岛订购电话:
0532 8575 3390
美酒篇 The Wine
Outstanding Outback 澳洲傲人之处 Hailing from the Swan Hill and Rutherglen wine making regions of Victoria, Australia, Buller Wines, a fourth generation, family run vineyard is a new addition to the Chinese wine market. And we, the people of Qingdao, are all the better for it! The vineyard has won praise from reviewers as well as a number of awards in recent years, proof that there is something very special captured between that glass and cork. Of its Langdon Rutherglen 2009 Shiraz, the wine maker says: “only the best grapes from the best years are used in the making of the new Langdon range.” And as if to prove the point, the wine picked up a gold medal at this year’s Hong Kong International Wine Challenge. Of its Calliope Shiraz 2006, the winery says the Calliope Shiraz is big and powerful in the tradition of North East Victoria’s ‘Wines for Heroes’. But it is a rare treat, they say: “It is only possible to make wine of this quality in good years. In fact, since 1991, this is only the ninth Calliope Shiraz.”
In addition to these, Buller wines produces a number of others spanning a full range of wine styles and productions techniques. Reds include a number of Merlots, Pino Noirs and Cabernet Sauvignons; in whites they produce a wide variety of Cahrdonays and Sauvignons. Also interesting are the range of fortified and dessert wines the hail from the winery. Their Portly Gentleman Tawny dwells in an Australian tradition that can be traced back to the 1840s. Then, Australia’s Mediterranean climate favoured cultivation of the vine and the early winemakers drew on the traditions of southern Europe when they made their wine. Fortified Australian Tawny has evolved from these beginnings. It is a style of its own, made using the time honoured methods that have changed little in nearly 200 years. This is an interesting wine producer, one that should have time spent upon its exploring.
来自澳大利亚维多利亚天 鹅山和路斯格兰的酒业世家， 第四代已进入公司经营。但是 对于中国葡萄酒市场来说却是 新生力量。很荣幸，布乐来到 青岛。近年来，布乐葡萄酒庄 园赢得了众多葡萄酒鉴赏家的 称赞和多项奖项。酒瓶与橡木 塞间充满的是神之真酿。 葡 萄 酒 酿 造 者 介 绍 Langdon Rutherglen 2009 Shiraz道“选用最好年份的最 佳葡萄生产Langdon系列。” 该葡萄酒获得今年香港葡萄 酒挑战赛金奖，验证了这一 说法。 说到 Calliope Shiraz 2006，葡萄酒酿造者介绍 道，单宁饱满的Calliope Shiraz是东北维多利亚传统 的“葡萄酒英雄”。想要品尝 此酒却非易事。“只有好年份 的上佳葡萄才能酿造Calliope Shiraz。实际上，从1991年仅 有9瓶。” 除了以上提到的，布乐酒 庄出产各种葡萄酒和提供葡萄酒 技术。红葡萄酒包括梅乐、黑皮 诺和赤霞珠；白葡萄酒包括：各 种霞多丽和长相思；还有品种繁 多的加强葡萄酒和甜酒。 布乐，一家有趣的葡萄酒生 产商，值得你花时间了解品味。 myredstar.com 43
The Knowledge 知识篇
A Walk on the Wine Side 畅游葡萄酒街
Qingdao’s Red Wine Street brings a whole world of wine closer to home. 青岛葡萄酒街引入众多美酒，不出 远门品味世界
Tim Lyddiatt
Just inside the twisting, hilly district of Shibei and near Qingdao’s scenic waterfront, Yan’an Yi Lu has, since a 2009 project to transform the area, been renamed in homage to all things Vin. Not far from the more famous Beer Street, it is a procession of temples to the fruit of the gods. Its official website describes the area, in its charmingly broken English as, “the domestic first-class fashion wine-consuming area and a wine avenue with international standard.” Certainly there is a world of wine on offer. The first thing you notice as you stroll the quiet and gently undulating pavements are the flags of the world that flutter gently in the breeze outside impressive looking 44 myredstar.com
glass fronted shops. France is prominent, but so too are the standards of Spain, Chile, the Unites States and, intriguingly, Canada. Bizarrely, though the doors were open, few of the lights were on. We went inside the first boutique. Wine is a status thing here, it would appear, and it is important to be in the know about imported wine. Inside there were racks and racks of dark wooden cases, and huge glass cases displaying wine consuming paraphernalia, ephemera and object d’art. Ranging from the beautiful to the gaudy, the useful to the fun, on offer were a range of medieval looking corkscrews and devices for storing wine. And, next to them, a myriad forms
of wine delivery mechanism bottles and barrels obviously, but cannons and horse carts too - were displayed on shelves in the windows inviting passersby to take a second look. And then there was the wine. This place, adorned with three bristling drapeau tricolores specialised in wines from the world’s second largest producer, France. On offer were tipples in red, white and rose from Bordeaux and Burgundy and the Rhône and Loire valleys. All were labelled in their original Français with the Chinese translations labelled below. This is important because, as you will see elsewhere in this supplement (p.28), counterfeit wine - or wine that is merely bottled
wine supplement
在构思红星葡萄酒特刊的 时候，我意识到，对青岛的第 一印象就是美酒，有个地方我 从未有机会踏足，但绝对让爱 好葡萄酒的我心驰神往。搜 索一下地图，不难发现啤酒街 和葡萄酒街的位置所在。对在 中东待过的我来说，难以相信 居然有以酒命名的街道。在中 东，喝酒是不被鼓励的。在美 酒馋虫的牵引下，踏上了探索 之旅。 市北区道路起伏上下，葱 葱郁郁的树木种植在狭窄的道 路两边，遮掩着古老的日耳曼 式外墙，秋日阳光下偶见远处 大海波光粼粼。青岛老城区延 安一路离啤酒街不远，在2009 年打造成一条葡萄酒特色街， 整条街遍布葡萄美酒。
界各地美酒应有尽有。踏上幽 静的街道，缓步上行，首先映 入眼帘的是各国国旗在酒窖精 美橱窗外迎风招展。其中最突 出的是法国国旗，西班牙、智 利、美国的标志也不在少数， 有趣的是加拿大国旗也有。奇 怪的是，酒窖都在开门纳客， 但是鲜有开灯的。 进入第一家酒窖，那里精 美展示着各类进口葡萄酒，充 分展现出葡萄酒之美，体现着 窖主对于葡萄酒的认知。内里 是一架架深色木箱，巨大的玻
璃展示箱陈列着各类葡萄酒用 具和艺术品。或美丽或妖娆、 或实用或有趣，既有中世纪式 开瓶器也有各储酒设备。旁边 还有各种各样的葡萄酒运送装 置，瓶瓶桶桶层层叠叠和各种 马车运输设备展示在橱窗中， 吸引游人眼球。 再来看看酒窖的葡萄酒。 这里竖立着三色国旗，专门从 世界第二大葡萄酒生产国法 国进口葡萄酒。以及来自波尔 多、勃艮第、罗纳和卢瓦尔山 谷的红、白和桃红葡萄酒。所
其官网上是这样介绍的“ 岛城档次最高的时尚红酒消费 区，打造出一条达到国际水准 的红酒大道。”当然在这里世 myredstar.com 45
The Knowledge 知识篇
in Europe, their contents derived from who-knowswhere, before being imported back into China, is a growing problem here. Also adorning the bottles - or the shelves that housed them - were prices that made this European weep. We all know how expensive non-Chinese wine can be, and have come to expect it because, you know, it has to be imported and suffer vast taxation on the way in. But some of these wines were selling at
other goodies available too: dessert wines made from blueberries, cranberries and passion fruit. All were produced by the Blossom Winery in Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. These were expensive too, but interesting enough to be noted here. We continued. Through the old and new world, we saw wines from all over: a Chilean Shiraz that, if good, would just about be in the realm of reasonableness for a special occasion, multiple merlots
it is delivered in. Here, with no flags flying except for a sorry looking la rojigualda, are packing cases piled high and filled with wines from apparently random corners of the world: Both old and new world was in evidence and at one end of the shop, a whole wall was devoted to the best in the world of spirits at prices that rival the supermarkets. In fact, the wine here is also much more reasonable priced too. We saw a lot in our stroll done
‘Hey, this is Qingdao, there is a street for everything.’ And so began a journey of a thousand metres and the whole world - in wine. more than ¥1000 and that is serious money for any wine, irrespective of where and when they have come from. We moved on, toward those white maple leaves of Canada. I had heard about ice wine before, a type of dessert wine produced from grapes frozen whilst still on the vine. Because the sugars and other dissolved solids do not freeze, but the water does, when pressed the resulting wine is more concentrated and much sweeter than when pressing unfrozen vines. I may have heard about them, but I had never seen so many of them, and never from the frozen north of Canada. There were 46 myredstar.com
from California, Australia and New Zealand, and a Spanish Rioja that was deep and dark and endless like a desert at night. It was an impressive range. Right at the end of the strip however is probably the best of the bunch. Looking more like a British off licence than any of the others: no Jade or marble flooring, no high minded sales women looking down her nose at us (unused to laowei as these shops seemingly are), the air was thick with the soft smell of dust from fresh wine brought up from a cellar and the rough unpolished wood of the packing cases
Red Wine Street. But the one thing we did not see were customers. In every place we visited, we were the only souls searching. It seems a shame, but perhaps because the venture was simply - and cynically, some might say bolted on to the ever popular beer street just around the corner as a means of raising the profile of the area: its cache and cadence, it doesn’t seem to be nearly as well populated as its much older cousin. Or perhaps China isn’t as ready for high wine culture as it would have the rest of the world believe.
知识篇 The Knowledge
“嘿，这是青岛，这是一条无所不有的街道。” 近千米长的街道，遍布世界各地的葡萄美酒。
有标签均为法语配有中文翻 译。这点很重要，正如本刊所 提及的那些假冒进口葡萄酒， 有些只是在欧洲罐装，有些是 从国内出口再进口回来，此类 问题日趋严重。 酒架上各类葡萄酒的售 价，让我们泪眼婆娑。进口关 税之高，可以想象的到非国产 葡萄酒的昂贵。进口葡萄酒的 售价大多在千元之上，这对于 不管来自何国家、哪个年代的 葡萄酒来说都是高昂的。 沿路而上，加拿大国旗映 入眼帘。在这里我们见到了冰 酒，这是一种甜酒，利用藤蔓 上冰冻的葡萄制成。糖和其他 溶化的固体不会被冰冻，但是 水会被冰冻，所以会产生非常 甜的葡萄酒。冰冻会发生在食
物发酵之前，而不会在之后。 虽然我之前听说过，但是从未 亲眼见到这么多冰酒。冰酒品 种也很多：蓝莓冰酒、红莓冰 酒和百香果冰酒。所有冰酒来 自不列颠哥伦比亚省奥肯那根 谷BlossomWinery。虽然价格非 常昂贵，但值得一试。 继续我们的路途，这里有 来自世界各地的葡萄酒：智利 西拉（特别庆典上物美价廉的 不错选择）；各种来自加利福 尼亚、澳大利亚和新西兰的梅 乐葡萄酒；西班牙里奥哈葡萄 酒（深宝石红色，整晚享用无 尽的甜点）等等。 古人云，最好的总是在最 后出现。最后出现在我们眼帘 的是英国禁酒令时期装修的酒 窖，没有大理石地面，没有趾
高气扬的售货员，也没有各类 飘扬的国旗。有的是空气中到 处弥漫着葡萄酒的气息和酒箱 的木质气味，有的是层层罗列 的各国整箱葡萄酒。传统强国 和新兴国家的葡萄酒都可以在 此寻得，整整一面墙都用来陈 列世界各地最棒的葡萄酒，价 格却可与超市媲美。事实上， 这里的任何一款葡萄酒的要价 都很合理。 漫步葡萄酒街的时候，我 们看到了很多光景，但是唯独不 见买酒的客人。我们所光临的每 一家店铺，都没有。很是遗憾。 也许是因为经营葡萄酒就是一项 乐趣，也许是期待火爆的啤酒街 可以带动一下，亦或许中国还不 像外人所想的那样已经具备消费 高档红酒的准备。 myredstar.com 47
48 myredstar.com
Places to Enjoy a Glass Cassani (kǎ sà nī) 90 (Yi) Minjiang Lu (8581-8263) 卡萨妮
Canvas 1-3 Yunling Lu, near Sophia Hotel (152 6920-5247)
闽江路90号乙
云岭路1-3号 (靠近青岛索菲亚 国际酒店)
港中路5号
Korona Grill House (kě luó jiā xī cān tīng) 5 Zhanghua Lu (8589-9721, 8589-9280) 可罗嘉
Trattoria Verde (běi lǜ dăo yì dà lì míng cài cān tīng) 67(Jia) Zhangzhou Lu (8589-8530) 北
Napoli 68 (ná bō lĭ 68 xī cān tīng) 43 Xianggang Xi Lu (oppo. Haitian Hotel) (8386-2200) 拿波 里68西餐厅 香港西路43号(海天 大酒店对面)
西餐厅 彰化路5号
La Villa (lā wéi lā fǎ guó cān tīng) 5 Xianggang Zhong Lu (8388-6833) 拉维拉法国餐厅 香
绿岛意大利名菜餐厅 漳州路 67号甲
Places to Buy a Bottle Great River Hill Winery 8-7 Aomen Garden QingdaoLaixi city (8640-6766) 青岛莱西 市澳门花园8-7
Maui www.maui.com.cn (021 6380 8097) Gourmet passion (186 60225559) Gourmetpassion.es Henke Trading 504, Bldg A, Hong Kong Gardens,
3 Quanzhou Lu (8589-7696) 泉 州路3号香港花园A座504
France Bacchus Bldg 9, 3 Xuzhou Lu (85898830) sales@francebacchus. com 徐州路3号9号楼 Pentagon Enterprise Co., Ltd B-2302, Guohua Bldg, 2 Minjiang Lu (8079-5256) www.pentagon-ent.com 派达
Buller Wines A1-616 #12 Shanqing Lu (136 6885-3362) 青岛天道进出口有限公司 上清 路12号A1-616室
WinItaly Room 2557, Zhongshang Mansion, 100 Xianggang Zhong Lu (8592-6326) 香 港中路100号中商大厦2557
格进出口有限公司 闽江路2号国 华大厦B-2302
Sat. & Sun. Lunch specials 11:30am – 1:30pm
Special Winter Menu now available!
Proudly serving delicious cuisine from Southern Italy 北绿岛
Excellent Pizza Napoletana and Seafood 24 December
Now taking reservations on Christmas Set Menu 358yuan/person Zhangzhou Yi Lu
Closed on Mondays Address: Jia, 67 Zhangzhou Lu Phone: 8589-8530
China Eastern Air Hotel
Yan’erdao Lu
WE ARE HERE!
Zhangzhou Er Lu Old Jack’s
Book City
Xianggang Zhong Lu
myredstar.com 49
wine supplement
50 myredstar.com
wine supplement
myredstar.com 51
wine supplement
1 myredstar.com