FEATURES
THE GOOFY HOMEWRECKER ACRO GROWOUT CONTEST
Kenny Lin is the founder and CEO of Pieces of the Ocean (POTO). Coral growout contests are usually so uncontrolled that nothing useful is learned. Here, the crew at POTO demonstrates a better way.
PLANNING YOUR FIRST REEF
Jim Adelberg is the executive editor for RHM. Planning your first reef tank can seem intimidating, but with some attention to these details, your first tank can be a masterpiece.
SUCCESSFULLY SPAWNING THE TORCH CORAL
Ty Ta is a scientist who has been reefing for over 20 years and is co-owner of Black Label Aquatics in Austin, Texas. Captive spawning of corals is still in its infancy, but here Ty documents his success spawning Torch Corals in his tank.
SEADREAMS MALDIVES
Raúl Torres is a co-owner of Seadreams and has more than 15 years' experience with marine aquariums. The best way to show off a nice home reef is in a well-designed, integrated display like this one from Seadreams.
ON THE COVER
Ziyang Gao is a Moorish Idol lover who has been keeping aquariums since the age of 4. Understanding alkalinity is a key to reefkeeping success. Join Ziyang for an in-depth review of this critical parameter. 6 12 38 20 26 42
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SPONSORED EVENTS
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ULTRA - COLORED GONIOPORA
World Wide Corals is one of the largest stores in the US focusing on captive-propagated corals. Captive-propagated Goniopora have raised the bar for these species on both display value and hardiness.
ALKALINITY AND pH: UNDERSTANDING THE BALANCE
NOODLE REEF
Kenneth Chen (aka Noodle Reefer), a UKbased reef enthusiast, began fishkeeping at 19 and started cultivating mixed-reef corals 4 years ago. Kenneth’s shallow mixed reef is an expert-level display.
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Cover image by Chris Turnier
The Goofy Homewrecker Acro Growout Contest
Goofy Homewrecker Acropora
KENNY LIN
Ihave seen many SPS (small-polyp stony) coral growout contests in the past, and the steam of excitement usually fizzled before they could conclude. This is sometimes due to the painstaking nature of growing SPS—it simply takes time. And as happens, not all participants remain to see a contest through to the end. Oftentimes, the frags are subjected to varying levels of stress, and the logistics of getting frags to the contestants can be unpredictable. Contestants also have their own ways of acclimating new arrivals into their system. Sometimes the frags just don’t survive to the end of the contest. And if they do, not much is usually known about the systems these frags end up in. As a result, we are often left with an incomplete picture and more questions than answers instead of the desired result of assessing how to best care for a specific coral. This is a missed opportunity to do something valuable and gain insight into growing specific corals while still keeping it fun.
At Pieces of the Ocean (POTO), we value different ideas and methodologies from our team when it comes to reefing. This allows us to compare notes, have meaningful discussions, and learn from each other how to better ourselves in this hobby. We thought it would be fun and interesting to see how our different methodologies would fare when it came to growing Acropora corals. We recognized the need for a growout contest that was well regulated while still providing enough variables to be informative. This would give better insight into the different systems the corals are placed in and a better basis for comparing the results. We decided to run our own growout contest in-house among POTO's three resident stick heads: me (Kenny), Will, and Chris. The assessment of the results were purely visual, as we wanted to keep any external factors to a minimum, including moving the frags for measurement.
For the coral, we decided to use our own POTO Goofy Homewrecker ( Acropora bifaria, previously A. tenuis). This coral has been captivegrown for many years, making it an ideal candidate for the contest. We started on March 11, 2024, and the winner was determined on August 31, 2024.
THREE DIFFERENT APPROACHES
My approach to reefing has always placed great importance on a healthy bioload of fish while keeping things as natural as possible. I refrain from using any chemicals and believe a refugium and skimmer are the heart of a reef tank’s filtration. Since this is the environment the mother colony has been raised in, for this contest, I grew the frag in an entirely different system and used the Reef Moonshiner’s method, which employs a preformulated calculator to target-dose specific trace elements based on regular ICP (inductively coupled plasma) test results.
Will’s approach to reefing has always been neat and clean and, to some degree, is the opposite of mine. Will likes to keep nutrients low and can’t stand the sight of detritus. While using Aquaforest’s suite of coral foods, his home tank experienced the fastest SPS coral growth we had ever seen. He will stick to this approach for the contest.
Chris’s approach to reefing can best be described as simple while constantly evolving. He is more of a tinkerer compared to us and is open to trying new things. He has an obsession with T5s and a
knack for spotting that next hot coral, and he keeps up with all the latest trends in the hobby.
MY SYSTEM
Display: 75 gallons, 60" × 19" × 15"
Sump: 40 gallons
Lighting: (3) EcoTech Radion G6, (1) AI Blade Grow
Flow: (2) Maxspect Gyre XF330, Reef Octopus Water Blaster (HY16000)
Skimmer: Royal Exclusiv Mini Bubble King 160
Trace Elements: calcium reactor, kalkwasser (2,400 mL daily), Reef Moonshiner’s
Other: refugium with Chaetomorpha
Temperature: 78–82° F
Specific Gravity: 1.025–1.026
pH: 7.8–8.2
Alkalinity: 7–8 dKH
Phosphate: 0.10–0.15 ppm
WILL’S SYSTEM
Display: 80 gallons, 48" × 24" × 16", plumbed into a 180-gallon fiberglass tub
Sump: 40 gallons
Lighting: Aquatic Life 24" G3 hybrid fixture with (4) T5HO and (2)
EcoTech Radion G6
Flow: Jebao SOW-8
Skimmer: Reef Octopus Elite 200-INT
Trace Elements: calcium reactor
Dosing: Aquaforest Pure Food, Power Food, Build, Growth Boost, 2 times per week
Other: refugium with Chaetomorpha
Temperature: 78–82° F
Specific Gravity: 1.025–1.026
pH: 7.8–8.2
Alkalinity: 7 dKH
Phosphate: 0.01–0.05 ppm
CHRIS’S SYSTEM
Display: 300 gallons, 72" × 36" × 24"
Sump: 75 gallons
Lighting: (6) EcoTech Radion G6, (4) 48" ATI T5 BluePlus
Flow: Maxspect Gyre XF280, AI Orbit 4, AI Nero 7
Skimmer: Vertex Alpha 200
Trace Elements: calcium reactor, kalkwasser (3,000 mL daily)
Goofy Homewrecker mother colony
The original three frags
WILL CHRIS
Temperature: 78–82° F
Specific Gravity: 1.025–1.026
pH: 7.8–8.2
Alkalinity: 7.5–8.0 dKH
Phosphate: 0.1–0.2 ppm
MAKING THE FRAGS
Every attempt was made to produce identical frags. We ended up with three frags that were all about the same size, each having at least one secondary growing tip.
Each contestant dipped and mounted his frag according to his own methodology. I dipped using PraziPro and mounted my frag with epoxy. Will dipped using Two Little Fishies ReVive and mounted his frag with IC-Gel. Chris dipped using PraziPro and mounted his frag with IC-Gel.
My frag was accidentally dropped on the floor during transfer, but we don’t think it caused any harm. The rest were mounted without incident. However, on day 4, Will’s frag peeled. We considered it a fluke, and since it had only been 4 days, we issued a replacement frag after Will jokingly brought up our 14-day guarantee policy. The second frag Will received was a single-branch frag, the most similar to the others that we could get at the time. Aside from that, no other setbacks were reported.
We documented the progress of each frag’s growth on a weekly basis and reported it on Reef2Reef. From week 14 on, the progress of each frag was documented biweekly.
THE RESULTS
With about a month to go in the contest, Chris’s frag and mine appeared to be neck and neck. Chris’s frag had continued to show vertical growth in addition to encrusting growth covering the plug. My frag had thickened, but vertical growth stalled, with lots of growth taking place at the base, including a couple of new growth tips shooting out from behind. Will’s frag was doing quite well but was visibly behind. We attribute that to his frag having been moved around more than the others. It was in the frag tank before it was moved to the main tub. Then it was moved back to the frag tank. In the final month, Will left it in the frag tank because he believed it would benefit from the T5 lighting.
On August 31, 2024, we opened up voting on Reef2Reef to see what our followers thought. The vote ended up in a tie between Chris's frag and mine. I acted as the tie breaker and voted for Chris's frag because we were judging for growth, and lots of votes seemed to be based on color. Chris's frag achieved vertical growth of half an inch on the original branch while also encrusting the entire plug down to the bottom. This trumps my frag with the extra shoots at the base. This conclusively resulted in Chris being chosen as the winner.
If you are interested in finding out more about this contest, check out our thread on Reef2Reef and our video updates from each contestant on our YouTube channel. Currently, we are considering growout contests featuring other species of Acropora to document their progress in different systems and gain more husbandry insights. We invite you to join us in our mission to keep learning about these beautiful animals that we love to keep. R
PLANNING YOUR FIRST REEF
JIM ADELBERG
The creation of a beautiful and thriving home reef is a nearly miraculous event. Consider the challenges involved in reproducing one of the most complex yet stable environments on the planet in a relatively tiny box of water in our homes. What is immediately obvious is that eventual success is dependent on both the quality of our equipment and the appropriateness of our equipment choices. And just as each choice made in the husbandry of a reef tank impacts every aspect of the system, so too does every equipment decision we make along the way.
I’m writing this piece specifically to help people who are creating their first reef tank, but I believe that even the most seasoned reefers may find value in reviewing these planning recommendations. And in
the name of full transparency, I’ll admit up front that some of these recommendations are things I do or have done, and some are things I wish I did or know I should do.
I often think of assembling a complicated jigsaw puzzle as an apt metaphor for creating a successful home reef. In both cases, a clear vision of the final goal ensures the success of the project. And, just as with a jigsaw puzzle, a single piece wrongly placed early on will have to be corrected before the final vision can be realized. Sometimes, inappropriate early choices make success more difficult, take longer to achieve, or even impossible altogether. I believe that the absence of a final vision, an unrealistic final vision, or a misunderstanding of the equipment needed to achieve that vision are why most beginners abandon the hobby.
That all-important final vision is critical to every aspect of reef tank planning and informs decision, from site determination to the final stocking of critters.
A large part of your planning should include budgeting. Make sure you include both one-time equipment costs and the ongoing costs of maintaining a home reef. With the prices of both electricity and husbandry supplies (salt, food, test kit reagents, etc.) on the rise, you may need to adjust the scope or size of your future reef to stay within budget. Adjusting your final vision is an intrinsic and necessary part of the planning process.
I won’t be discussing specific brands or prices here and will leave it to you to determine what you can afford. I will say that I don’t condone buying cheap gear when it’s critical to reef life support, and I get angry with myself when an attempt to save money in the short term leads to long-term aggravation or, worse, the failure of a key piece of equipment that could compromise my whole system.
SITE SELECTION
In a perfect world, you could just put a reef tank anywhere you wanted, but we don’t live in that world. The considerations of siting a tank are many, and I’ll just go through a few. The weight of reef tanks is considerable. Salt water alone weighs upwards of 8 pounds per gallon, but if you think a 50-gallon reef only weighs around 400 pounds, you’re in for a rude awakening. Every gallon of the display that contains rock, sand, or coral weighs considerably more, sometimes as much as double the weight of water. We also need to add in the
weight of the stand, the sump, and all the other equipment that goes in or alongside the tank. Any medium or large reef setup will weigh many hundreds or even thousands of pounds. Enthusiasts of large reefs regularly have to brace their subflooring to accommodate the weight of their tanks.
Your tank needs electricity. In fact, it needs a lot of electricity. A careful analysis of your future tank’s energy needs should inform your final vision and planning. Is it going to
This fish room was designed with a source of clean water for ease of maintenance. | Image by Manuel Amrein
Extension cord with
GFCI circuit
be more load than your available outlets can handle? Do you need an additional breaker installed to handle the projected load? Is a smaller tank or a less energy-intensive system a better choice? As you plan your energy needs, don’t forget to factor in some of the peripheral husbandry requirements as well, like the water-mixing reservoir pump and heater. Any
equipment that goes in, under, over, or around water should be on a circuit with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). GFCIs can be installed at the breaker box but can also be found on wall outlets and extension cords. The combination of salt water and electricity can be very dangerous without GFCI protection.
Speaking of that water-mixing reservoir, you will benefit greatly from having a source of clean water installed in your maintenance and husbandry area. Yes, you can pump water from one place to another, but thoughtful planning can eliminate this extra step. To reduce clutter and maximize efficiency, consider installing a water tap right where it's needed. By the time you do your 100th water change or ATO (auto top-off) reservoir refill, you’ll appreciate this convenience. Of course, “clean” water means RODI (reverse-osmosis deionized) water since most tap water requires pretreatment, so don’t forget to budget for an RODI system. Finally, plan for as much access as possible to all parts of the system for easy equipment cleaning and maintenance.
TANK CHOICE
This is a very subjective topic, so I’ll offer a few thoughts, but it really comes down to your preferences. Start by considering the available material options and their pros and cons. Essentially, there are acrylic (plastic) tanks and glass tanks, and glass tanks come in three distinct types.
Acrylic tanks have been popular because they’re relatively lightweight, more resistant to failure by impact or seam leakage, easily drilled, and sometimes cheaper than the glass alternatives. However, plastic is a softer material than glass and ages differently. It’s very easy to scratch an acrylic tank, and buffing out even shallow scratches is tedious. As acrylic ages, the plastic becomes increasingly brittle and will likely discolor or develop hazing.
RODI filtration system
I think acrylic tanks are best used as sumps, where having perfect clarity is less important.
Glass tanks are available in regular glass, tempered glass, and lowiron glass, such as the Starphire brand. Regular and tempered-glass tanks are both relatively cheap, and the main differences are that tempered glass is better at holding up to a lot of water pressure (which is why almost all “tall” style tanks are made with tempered glass) and is slightly better at resisting scratches than regular glass but cannot be safely drilled after purchase. I avoid tempered-glass tanks because I usually like to install my own overflows, but there is no reason to avoid them otherwise. The last material is low-iron glass, and it comes with its own pros and cons. Low-iron glass is considerably clearer and doesn’t have the greenish tint of regular and tempered glass. However, that comes at a premium price. Low-iron glass is easily drilled at home and, despite the higher up-front cost, is my personal favorite.
One potential cost-saving approach here is to purchase a display with the idea that, if you are successful and decide to eventually purchase a bigger display, that first tank can be repurposed as a sump. This may mean a shallow
display is a better initial choice, and a shallow tank has other benefits as well. Shallow displays require less intense lighting to achieve the same PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) for the corals. Shallow tanks also naturally have higher dissolved oxygen levels because there is relatively more surface area per gallon and the surface is where most gas exchange occurs. Because of this dissolved oxygen difference, you may be able to reduce the size, number, or power settings of the internal flow pumps.
STAND AND SUMP
I like to build my own stands for a few reasons. We discussed weight earlier, and for me, the failure of a stand is one of the most catastrophic of all potential scenarios. I also like to customize both the viewing height of the display and the height of the sump area. I understand that not everyone can or wants to build their own stand, so if you decide to buy one instead, make sure it’s very well constructed. Avoid any stands that use MDF, particle board, or chipboard. This material has no place in humid environments or anywhere it might get wet, such as on an aquarium stand. I also tend to avoid any veneered products unless they’re made for marine use (super expensive). I am an advocate of large sump areas and large sump tanks. More room for additional or larger equipment is always good, and easier access to sump equipment makes maintenance easier. Large sumps add extra water volume and thus chemical stability to the system. Finally, having a tall sump area allows for taller skimmers and can improve air flow in an area that typically traps a lot of heat.
A larger sump area allows for taller equipment and easier maintenance. | Image by Andre Lavareda Regular glass (top) Low-iron glass (bottom)
LIFE SUPPORT EQUIPMENT (SUMP)
Inside most reef tank sumps, you’ll find at least a skimmer, a heater, and a return pump.
My advice on skimmer selection is to buy one that is rated for a larger tank than you’re going to run. Although this represents a higher initial cost and a little more ongoing energy consumption, in an emergency like the death of a large fish or accidental overfeeding, the larger skimmer may save your reef.
Heaters are an interesting topic. The traditional glass heater controlled by an internal bi-metallic strip thermostat has a number of problems. Glass just isn’t a great material for this application. Glass breaks easily, and over time, repeated heat cycles make it more and more brittle. Another huge problem with these heaters is that the bi-metallic strips eventually stick, which leads to constant and uncontrolled heating. This can easily kill a reef. My recommendation is to use a titanium heater and a separate controller that will shut down the heater before it can overheat the reef. If you intend to put the reef in an area that gets hot, a chiller may be required. Chillers need to be very specifically sized for individual systems to avoid rapid, less efficient cycling. Factors to consider include desired room temperature differential and flow through the sump.
Return pumps are also critical pieces of life support equipment, and buying a quality return pump should be a high priority. I personally prefer to use controllable DC pumps, as I might want more or less flow through the sump without restricting the pump’s input or output. Because it’s controlled by varying the RPMs, these pumps can offer a small reduction in energy consumption. There are some other equipment choices for sumps that you might choose to install or at least leave room for. Filtration is usually placed in the sump and might include anaerobic filtration like a deep sandbed or aerobic filtration like various biomatrix products. Additionally, an algae reactor, refugium, or various media reactors might be found here, and many people mount their dosing and automation equipment inside the sump area.
I don’t think it’s my job to tell you how to or how much to automate your reef, but I will strongly recommend a quality ATO (auto top-off) system to replace evaporated water. Don’t forget to leave room for a generous ATO reservoir in your planning.
LIFE SUPPORT EQUIPMENT (DISPLAY)
In this section, there are two main equipment choices to make: lighting and internal flow pumps. Naturally, I’m going to recommend that you purchase quality lighting equipment but also, especially if this is your first reef, that you purchase with your next tank in mind. I would recommend lighting that doesn’t relegate you to a certain tank size. Spending $1,000 on a 4-foot T5 fixture may seem great now for your 4-foot tank, but in 2 years when you want a 6-foot tank, what then? Instead, consider more modular options. Two or three good LED pucks will provide plenty of coverage over that same 4 feet and allow you to upgrade to uniform-looking lighting for a larger system simply by adding another puck or two.
Choices regarding which internal flow pumps to use are highly subjective. I recommend buying larger flow pumps than you need. This is both because a larger tank may be in your future and because a larger pump run at a lower setting has increased longevity. However, this recommendation comes with a caveat: sometimes, better water flow can be created in a system by using more pumps of a smaller size, and that’s especially true as a reef matures. Eliminating dead spots in a fully mature reef can sometimes only be accomplished with numerous pumps specifically targeted at certain parts of the reef structure.
CONCLUSION
There are as many ways to set up a reef tank as there are reefers, and while I can’t tell you how to set up your home reef, I hope these general considerations will help in your system planning and equipment shopping. Purchasing the right equipment will save you time, money, and frustration, and it may even save the life of your reef. R
Plan for a chiller to manage water temperature in warm environments.
A titanium heater with a controller is ideal for temperature control.
SUCCESSFULLY SPAWNING THE TORCH CORAL
The Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) is easily identified by its long, tubular tentacles that terminate in an acrosphere that is typically a distinct color from the rest of the polyp. Corallite sizes are approximately 20 to 30 millimeters in diameter, and within each corallite, primary and secondary septa recede deeply toward the middle where the mouth resides.
These corals can be found broadly in the Indo-Pacific region. The specimens found in Australian waters tend to exhibit thicker, shorter, and more cylindrical tentacles with larger corallite diameters. The Indonesian Torches are often more colorful, and though they have smaller corallites, these corals seem to be more easily maintained in a reef tank environment.
Torch Corals commonly inhabit sheltered waters in the intertidal zone to a depth of around 130 feet. They have been found in various levels of flow and light intensities and seem to be adaptable to a range of environments and conditions.
This species is hermaphroditic, which means a single individual possesses both male and female reproductive organs. During a spawning event, individuals that have produced male gametes (sperm) release them into the water. These are taken in by the corals that have produced female gametes (eggs). As brooders, these corals fertilize their eggs internally and release developed planulae that will drift in the water until they find a suitable location and settle. TY TA
At Black Label Aquatics, we’ve had great success growing Torch Corals under 300 to 400 PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) and in medium flow. We keep the parameters of our Torch Coral tank similar to our SPS (small-polyp stony) coral tanks. For lighting, we use mostly EcoTech Radions running the AB+ profile (and sometimes supplement with T5 lighting) on an 8-hour photoperiod with about an hour of dawn and dusk.
PARAMETERS
Temperature: 76–82° F depending on the season
Specific Gravity: 1.026
Nitrate: 5–15 ppm
Alkalinity: 7.5–8.0 dKH
Calcium: 420 ppm
Phosphate: 0.03–0.08 ppm
Magnesium: 1,300–1,350 ppm
We don’t feed our corals directly but do feed our fish plenty, and the resulting fish waste allows that nutritional input to trickle down the food chain to the corals.
TRIGGERING A SPAWN
Captive spawning of stony corals has been well documented by Dr. Jamie Craggs of the Horniman Museum in England, who has been extremely successful in spawning Acropora based on a careful reproduction of seasonal temperature changes, solar irradiation, photoperiod, and lunar cycle. His paper is publicly available.
Captive-spawned Torch Corals growing out in the holding tank
While we didn’t follow his methodology exactly, we started to slowly ramp up the temperature in our Torch tank for a seasonal change. In the spring, we increased the water temperature from 78 to 78–80 and again in the summer to 80–82 degrees. In the fall, we dropped it back down to 78–80 and again in the winter to 76–78 degrees. We also made changes to the photoperiod. We added 30 minutes of light for spring and another 30 minutes for summer. In the fall, we reduced it by 30 minutes and reduced it by another 30 minutes in the winter. We have not set up a lunar cycle on the system yet.
With 20-year-old live rock in the system, the corals were thriving in a healthy, mature, and stable ecosystem, which we believe is key to conditioning corals prior to spawning.
In the spring of 2023, the Torch Corals in our system spawned. Unfortunately, I did not witness the spawning, but soon there were tiny polyps appearing on all the frag racks. At first glance, I thought the tank had somehow become infested with Majano Anemones because I could see tiny polyps attached all over the system. Closer inspection revealed that the polyps had a skeletal base. As they grew out, I was surprised to see miniature Torch heads starting to form. I moved some of the other coral colonies out and cleared the frag racks. To my surprise, there were over 100 tank-spawned Torch babies attached to the racks. I allowed the baby Torches to grow out in that system until they reached about the size of a dime. Then I moved them all onto frag plugs to better monitor them and give them more room to grow.
The return-pump flow was dialed back to a lower setting to increase the chances of fertilization and larval retention in the tank. This was important
Baby Torch Coral mounted on a plug
Baby Torch Coral with vibrant coloration
because the larvae are only 1 to 2 millimeters upon release from the mother colony and could easily be swept into an overflow. We also believe that having our Torches together in a small tank with lots of coralline-covered eggcrate facilitated larval settlement post release.
As with any coral spawning event, the hope is that the new mix of the genetic material will produce unique offspring. While there are some babies that look identical to the parent colonies, there are more that look distinct. Or if they do look similar to one of the parents, there are slight differences in brightness or color, making it clear that they aren’t exactly identical. I hope to better document these details as they grow out and split via asexual budding.
One of the most interesting things I have observed about these tank-spawned Torches is that their membrane growth is astronomical. They are literally growing down onto the plugs and then onto the racks. This is something I usually witness with Acropora or Montipora corals but never before with Torch Corals. If I don’t move the tank-spawned baby Torches often enough, I have to break them off the frag rack because of how quickly they encrust. The other thing I have
observed is just how hardy they are. They’ve adjusted to any lapses in water quality better than my 5- to 6-year-old mother colonies.
Since we aren’t sure if the spawn is a direct result of our strategy, we are replicating the same conditions to see if we can produce another spawning event. With more trials, we hope to gain a better understanding about these beautiful corals so that we as a hobby and industry are able to make more informed and effective conservation decisions. If all goes as planned, we look forward to offering some of these tank-spawned Torches to the reefing community in the near future. R
Captive-spawned Torches showing rapid encrusting growth
SEADREAMS MALDIVES
When I was 8 years old, my father gave me a 16-gallon tropical aquarium, and I've been a huge fan of the aquarium hobby ever since. About 15 years ago, I ventured into marine tanks, a new side of the hobby that demanded the utmost dedication. To me, this is the most comprehensive hobby there is; you need to know something about chemistry, electronics, fluid dynamics, biology, and much more.
My start in the reef hobby was challenging, but I had a deeply curious nature and the desire to understand how and why things happened. This led me to spend countless hours reading and developing a sensitivity to what my aquarium might need. I was constantly learning.
Over 10 years ago, our company Seadreams was born. The name originated from a project we built for ourselves. Gradually, the Seadreams brand took shape, and we now focus on creating complete and unique marine aquariums and custom equipment of all kinds, such as sumps, reactors, overflows, and bioboxes.
One of my favorite systems that we’ve ever designed and built is the Seadreams Maldives project, a system inspired by my passion for micro species of fish. The 20" cube display is made of ultra-clear glass, with 45-degree mitered construction and transparent silicone. It stands on a bi-level metal table with a glossy white ceramic finish. The table supports a custom white sump system with black carbon fiber and orange accents, and underneath is a mobile support for the ATO (auto top-off) reservoir that houses four internal dosing reservoirs, each with an inverted intake.
Seadreams Maldives before introduction of livestock
Custom-built equipment cabinet and stand
The entire aquarium is controlled by voice, cellphone, and a hidden motorized tablet that disappears when not in use. We also built the system to run as quietly as possible. The aquarium has two overflows on the rear and an exclusive rotating return pump that doubles as a support for the lighting fixture. The aquarium sits on micro wheels, and the back of the stand houses all the electronics. Thanks to Wi-Fi controls, the plugs are rarely touched, and the aquarium can be moved forward without having to unplug any equipment, allowing easy access to the hidden electronics. We also concealed all the unsightly cables.
SPECIFICATIONS
Display: 20" × 20" × 20", ultra-clear glass
Lighting: EcoTech Marine Radion XR30 Pro
Water Movement: EcoTech MP10 QD
Dosing: (4) EcoTech Versa, (4) Easy Reefs
Return Pump: EcoTech Vectra S2
Skimmer: UltraReef UKS 160
Heating: Aqua Medic
Auto Top-off: AutoAqua Duo
The aquascape was designed using coral branches and Bahamas Oolite sand from CaribSea (very fine and beautiful). The chemistry of our system is controlled by Triton, which helps us maintain a perfect balance of micro and macro elements using periodic ICP (inductively coupled plasma) and NDOC (carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorous analysis) tests. Coral feeding is mostly based on Easy Reefs products. Our systems are always designed to maintain a low-nutrient environment where these values are nearly
Integrated electronics display
undetectable. For me, balance lies in supplying only what the aquarium consumes daily while keeping nutrient levels low. In this small 34-gallon tank, good chemical and nutrient balance is vital, especially with an aquarium dominated by Acropora species.
I have a passion for micro species of fish because many of them can live happily in a small tank their whole lives. I enjoy watching my various gobies, especially the many established pairs of different species, swimming together in the tank. These fish show amazing social behavior in the aquarium in the absence of predators.
I don't follow any predetermined maintenance routine because I believe an aquarium is an ever-changing ecosystem, and what is necessary today may be harmful tomorrow. That's why I try to listen to what the system tells me. The entire aquarium speaks, from the fish to the corals, the sand, the invertebrates, etc. They tell us what they need, but the challenge is to listen and provide what's necessary. When we don't listen, the aquarium cries out for help, and if we don't address its needs, we're guaranteed to have a problem.
In this hobby, we're essentially maintaining water. That's the main focus, and we need to speak the language of our aquatic environment, recognize its needs, and maintain its health. The most time-consuming activity in the aquarium’s care is observation, which is different from simply watching and passively enjoying the tank. Observing is more active and involves ensuring that everything is in optimal condition: the fish are eating, are comfortable, and do not have diseases;
Seadreams Maldives in its prime
the corals are colorful and have robust polyp extension; and all life support equipment is functioning properly.
When I have a problem, I always try to identify issues early so I can make one change at a time. This allows me to assess the results of each change individually. If the initial change doesn’t solve the problem, I allow the aquarium time to rebalance itself before making a second change. It's essential to let the aquarium seek its own stability in a controlled way. When trying a new chemical product, I always start with a dose much lower than the manufacturer's recommendation. I then wait for results, and little by little, I see if I need to reduce, increase, or stop the dosage.
FISH
• Nemateleotris helfrichi (pair)
• Stonogobiops dracula
• Stonogobiops yasha (pair)
• (3) Elacatinus multifasciatus
• Acanthemblemaria hancocki
• (2) Discordipinna griessingeri
• Ecsenius stigmatura
• Centropyge loricula
• Trimma rubromaculatum (pair)
• Trimma cana (pair)
• Eviota pellucida
• Signigobius biocellatus
• Eviota atriventris
• Trimma caudomaculatum
• Synchiropus sycorax
• Amphiprion ocellaris
• Pterapogon kauderni
CLEANUP CREW
• (20–25) Nassarius spp.
• (8) Paguristes cadenati
• (12) Clibanarius tricolor
• (3) Conomurex luhuanus
• (5) Trochus spp.
TARGET PARAMETERS
Temperature: 78.4° F
Nitrate: 0.5–1.0 ppm
Alkalinity: 6.8 dKH
Calcium: 390 ppm
Phosphate: 0.001 ppm
Magnesium: 1,380 ppm
Potassium: 380 ppm
A lack of time ultimately led us to dismantle the aquarium, but the main reason was the loss of challenge. Once a project idea has been realized and the aquarium has been stable for many months, my motivation to continue begins to wane. Today, the new owner of the Maldives project is enjoying this beautiful setup, and we’re already considering a new Seadreams project after a break. Now we just need time and motivation, and I’m sure the project’s scope and vision will reveal themselves, as they always do. R
WWC Bomb Diggity Goniopora
Corals of the genus Goniopora have long been a favorite in the hobby. They create spectacular points of focus in reef tanks with their elegant polyps waving gently in the current. However, imported Goniopora colonies used to suffer from high mortality rates before they could be successfully acclimated to life in a home reef. Whether this was due to the methods of collection and holding prior to export, the rigors of international shipping, the difficulties of getting them settled into tank life, or some combination of all these factors is not clear. This made it hard to recommend these corals because even apparently healthy colonies introduced into well-established and healthy home reefs would sometimes inexplicably fail to survive. Over the last couple of decades, that has changed.
In the early 2000s, Justin Credabel Grabel researched the nutritional needs of Goniopora corals and developed a food specifically for these animals. This made a big difference in the survival of recently imported Goniopora. This was also a time when the hobby overall developed more advanced husbandry techniques and equipment that allowed hobbyists to stabilize their home reefs beyond what had been possible before. Finally, this was a time when everyone was trying to frag every coral available, and that included Goniopora corals. Although many of these attempts ended up failing, this experimentation allowed hobbyists to refine fragging, mounting, and dipping protocols that would prove invaluable moving forward.
Fast-forward to today when, thanks to those early trailblazers, we now have captive-propagated Goniopora readily available in stores. And because both hobbyist and commercial farmers have been able
WWC Hail Hydra Goniopora
WWC Cherry Bonkers Goniopora
WWC Soursop Goniopora
to focus on specific color morphs, captive-propagated Goniopora are sold in an array of colors, patterns, and contrast almost never available in the past.
These colonies are captive propagated and are directly descended from specific Goniopora selected for their coloration, fast and reliable growth, hardiness, and adaptability to life in a home aquarium.
TARGET WATER PARAMETERS
Temperature: 77–78° F
Specific Gravity: 1.026
pH: 8.1–8.4
Alkalinity: 8–9 dKH
Calcium: 450 ppm
At World Wide Corals, we typically keep these captive-propagated Goniopora in low to medium flow in a wave/pulse alternating pattern and in medium-low to medium lighting of 125 to 225 PAR (photosynthetically active radiation). We broadcast feed small amounts of our in-house reef mix several times daily to all tanks (do not try this at home unless you have a 300+ gallon, very mature reef), but hobbyists should feed small amounts of a quality stony
coral food (such as Reef Nutrition Oyster-Feast) twice weekly for tanks under 200 gallons.
As far as tankmates go, use caution when placing them near other corals, and be careful when placing different Goniopora species together in your reef, as different species may sting each other. Although relatively benign, Goniopora tentacles can irritate and eventually kill other corals with which they come in contact.
These captive-propagated Goniopora are extremely robust, and their survival rates are a night-and-day difference from the wild colonies that used to come in. Another advantage of these captivepropagated colonies is that they grow and encrust very quickly. Because of the survivability of captive-propagated Goniopora, we can now recommend these corals for any hobbyist with a mature reef system and very stable water conditions. However, we still do not recommend adding them to a reef younger than 18 months old.
If you decide to add one of these ultra-colored Goniopora to your reef, pay attention to the coral’s environmental and nutritional needs, and place it with compatible corals. By providing captivepropagated Goniopora with the proper conditions, these corals will flourish and reward you with remarkable colors and beauty. R
WWC Mango King Goniopora
WWC Hollywood Nights Goniopora
ALKALINITY AND pH: UNDERSTANDING THE BALANCE
ZIYANG GAO
Stable and appropriate alkalinity is crucial to the health of any marine aquarium with stony corals. But despite its importance, few reefers have more than a cursory knowledge of this important parameter. Alkalinity represents the ability of water to resist changes in its pH value, so to appreciate the importance of alkalinity, one must first understand pH.
pH is a number representing how acidic or alkaline a solution is. It refers to the negative logarithm of the protons present in the solution. In an aqueous solution, such as the water of an aquarium, protons normally exist as hydronium ions. As the concentration of the protons/hydronium ions increase, pH decreases. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 being neutral. When the pH is under 7, the solution is considered acidic. When pH is over 7, the
solution is considered alkaline, or basic. Generally, the optimal pH value in a reef aquarium should be 8.1 to 8.4.
The end result of most organic activity in a marine aquarium is a decrease in pH. This might be a result of CO2 introduced by the respiration of fish and corals, the acidic waste of those animals, or the action of bacteria in the filter. During a 24-hour period, the pH value in a marine aquarium can fluctuate as much as 0.5. While maintaining the appropriate pH level is important, maintaining a stable pH level and preventing significant fluctuations should be the ultimate goal.
Substances referred to as buffers help resist changes in the pH value, such as when an acid or base is introduced into the solution. There are many substances that can contribute to the
Image by ead72
alkalinity of the water. In marine aquariums, the main contributors to alkalinity are carbonate and bicarbonate. The concentration of carbonate and bicarbonate that are present in the water is known as carbonate hardness. For reefing purposes, the concentrations of other substances that contribute to alkalinity in the aquarium are negligible. Thus, the terms alkalinity and total carbonate hardness have been used interchangeably in the marine aquarium hobby. The alkalinity level can be expressed in parts per million (ppm) of calcium carbonate equivalent, milliequivalent per liter (mEq/L), or degrees of carbonate hardness (dKH). One dKH is the equivalent of 0.36 mEq/L and 17.9 ppm of calcium carbonate. Normally, the alkalinity in marine aquariums should be maintained at 8 to 12 dKH.
The activity of carbonate and bicarbonate in water can be described by the following equations:
1. CO 2 ( g) CO 2 (aq)
2: CO 2 (aq) + H 2O H 2CO 3 (aq)
3: H 2CO 3 (aq) + H 2O HCO 3 -(aq) + H 3 O+(aq)
4: HCO 3 -(aq) + H 2O CO 3 2- (aq) + H 3 O+(aq)
Here, CO 3 2- is the carbonate ion, HCO 3 - is the bicarbonate ion, H 2 CO 3 is carbonic acid, and H 3 O+ is the hydronium ion. “aq” represents aqueous solution—our aquarium water—while “g” represents the gaseous phase of a substance. The double arrow represents a reversible reaction, meaning that the reaction can occur in both directions. In the forward direction of the reaction, the carbon dioxide first dissolves in the water as shown in equation 1. Then, in equation 2, the dissolved carbon dioxide reacts with water to form carbonic acid. Subsequently, in equation 3, the dissolved carbonic acid reacts with water to form bicarbonate ions and hydronium ions. Finally, the bicarbonate ions react with water to form carbonate ions and hydronium ions as shown in equation 4. This series of reactions also acts in the reverse direction to neutralize acid and ultimately yield carbon dioxide. When the pH is below 6.3, carbon dioxide predominates. When the pH is between 6.3 and 10.3, bicarbonate ions predominate. When the pH is above 10.3, carbonate ions predominate. Since the normal pH value in marine aquariums is 8.1 to 8.4, bicarbonate ions predominate.
THE ROLE OF CALCIUM AND MAGNESIUM
In salt water, calcium exists as positively charged divalent ions (Ca 2+). Normally, the calcium ion concentration in marine aquariums is between 380 and 450 ppm. Calcium ions can react with bicarbonate as shown in equation 5:
5: Ca 2+(aq) + 2HCO 3 -(aq) Ca(HCO 3)2(aq)
In marine aquariums, the calcium ion is an excess reagent while the bicarbonate ions are limiting reagents, meaning that bicarbonate will be exhausted first. The carbonate and bicarbonate in the water column are important for corals since the hard skeletons of corals are made up of calcium carbonate. Many invertebrates also use calcium carbonate to build their shells. Meanwhile, soft corals and anemones do not need calcium carbonate in that regard. Fish can take up calcium ions from the water column and produce calcium carbonate precipitate that is rich in magnesium, which thus contributes to alkalinity. Referencing equation 4, corals take up bicarbonate and calcium ions from the water, converting the
Calcium reactors allow for fine tuning of alkalinity.
bicarbonate ions into carbonate ions. Subsequently, as shown in equation 6, the coral assembles its calcium carbonate skeleton. Here, CaCO 3 (s) is calcium carbonate in its solid phase.
6: Ca 2+(aq) + CO 3 2- (aq) CaCO 3 (s)
A high level of calcium or carbonate in the water can cause precipitation of CaCO 3 (s), which will ultimately reduce both the alkalinity and the concentration of calcium ions in the water.
Like calcium, magnesium is abundant and exists as divalent cations in marine aquariums, typically ranging from 1,200 to 1,400 ppm. Magnesium ions can bind to the growing crystals of calcium carbonate, inhibiting excessive binding of calcium and carbonate ions to the growing crystals. This helps maintain proper calcium ion concentration and alkalinity in the aquarium. Strontium can serve the same function as magnesium, but due to its low concentration in marine aquariums, its contribution is negligible.
At high pH, more carbonate ions will be present, and calcium carbonate will precipitate rapidly. Thus, alkalinity decreases as pH increases. At low pH, the precipitation of calcium carbonate decreases, allowing more calcium and carbonate ions to remain in the water column. As a result, alkalinity increases as pH decreases. Though alkalinity is easier to maintain at lower pH, lower pH also means higher hydronium ion concentrations in the water column. The corals must convert bicarbonate ions to carbonate ions, and as shown in equation 4, this process liberates one proton. It is harder for a coral to release a proton into the water column when the water column is already rich in protons. This makes it difficult for corals to grow calcium carbonate skeletons at low pH. And with very high alkalinity, when bicarbonate and carbonate are more available, the coral skeleton can grow more rapidly. In this case, the growth rate of the coral tissue cannot sustain the growth rate of the coral skeleton, resulting in weakened tissue. The tissue on these corals can be damaged easily, and this can also result in “burned tips” on the corals. The best approach is to avoid extremely low or high alkalinity.
Water changes, calcium reactors, and alkalinity supplements are the most common ways to control alkalinity in the aquarium. For tanks without stony corals, water changes alone are typically sufficient to maintain alkalinity. Water changes can also be used to temporarily and quickly mitigate excessively high or low alkalinity levels. The alkalinity supplements that are available commercially are usually based on sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate. Calcium reactors essentially create a low pH environment in a sealed chamber, and this helps the calcium and carbonate ions dissolve out of the reactor media. The calcium and carbonate ions are then released into the aquarium water, allowing the alkalinity to be increased. Theoretically, with proper usage, calcium reactors and alkalinity supplement dosing have the same efficacy. Most of the time, choosing which method to use comes down to a personal preference.
ALKALINITY TESTING
Indicator titration and colorimetric testing are the methods most often used to measure alkalinity in marine aquariums. In the indicator titration method, a standard acid solution with known concentration (the titrant) is gradually added to the sample (the analyte) until a specific pH level (the endpoint) is reached. A pH indicator (added
to the sample separately or contained in the titrant) then changes color, signaling that the titration is complete. The alkalinity is then calculated based on the concentration and volume of titrant used. Examples of indicator titration testing methods include the Salifert and Nyos alkalinity test kits.
In colorimetric methods, a standard acid solution and pH indicator are added to the sample. The endpoint is identified by a color change, and the alkalinity is measured based on the degree of change in color. Devices like the Hanna Alkalinity Checker and Eco-Check eXact use the colorimetric test method. The advantage of colorimetric tests is that they are quick and easy to use.
When selecting an alkalinity test kit, it is important to purchase from a reputable test kit manufacturer. Moreover, it is necessary to select an alkalinity test kit that is specifically designed for saltwater use.
Be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Below are some tips to ensure the most accurate readings:
• Clean the vials with reverse-osmosis, distilled, or deionized water after each testing procedure
• Dry the test vials completely after each testing session
• Avoid contaminating the reagents
• Rinse the sample syringe several times with aquarium water before collecting the sample for testing
Sometimes, testing the alkalinity at different locations in the aquarium may be helpful since alkalinity levels can vary throughout the tank. When an unexpected test result appears, repeat the test or use a different test kit to ensure the accuracy of the results.
The frequency of alkalinity testing should depend on the type of aquarium and the stability of the system. In a fish-only system or an anemone tank, the exhaustion of carbonate and bicarbonate ions is negligible, making the alkalinity level relatively stable. For these systems, testing alkalinity on a weekly basis is sufficient. On the other hand, in a tank with stony corals, and especially a mature small-polyp stony coral reef, the exhaustion of alkalinity is significant. For a newly established stony coral aquarium, alkalinity should be tested frequently, even daily. As the system stabilizes, the frequency of testing can decrease.
Now that you have a clearer understanding of the ins and outs of alkalinity, I hope you will be better equipped to maintain this essential balance in your home tank and create the living reef you want. R
Alkalinity titration
NOODLE REEF
KENNETH CHEN
Ibegan my aquarium hobby at the age of 19 with fishkeeping, and about 4 years ago, I ventured into coral aquariums. While my focus has shifted toward building an Acropora-dominated tank, zoanthids remain my favorite coral. Zoanthids were the first corals I ever kept, and they hold a special meaning to me. Their vibrant
colors and unique patterns made them an exciting introduction to the coral side of the hobby, and even now, they continue to bring amazing color, life, and variety to my tank alongside the more challenging Acropora species, like Pink Lemonade and Strawberry Shortcake.
Rose Bubble-tip Anemone
Zoanthid garden
SPECIFICATIONS
Display: 72" × 25" × 16"
Sump: 45" × 18.7" × 15"
Total System Volume: ~170 gallons
Lighting: (5) GHL Mitras Lightbar 3 ((2) Coral Pop, (2) Deep Ocean, (1) Ocean Blue)
Water Movement: (2) Maxspect Gyre XF350, random mode
Controller: GHL ProfiLux 4 Mega-Set 6E, Reef Factory KH Keeper
Doser: GHL Doser 2.2 (Aquaforest Component Pro), EcoTech Versa (kalkwasser)
Skimmer: Reef Octopus Regal 200-S
Return Pump: EcoTech Vectra M2
Refugium Lighting: Kessil H80 Tuna Flora
UV: Deltec, 80 watts
Auto Top-off: Red Sea ReefATO+
Fleece Roller: Red Sea ReefMat 1200
Heating: Hygger heater/controller, Inkbird ITC-306A controller, D-D 300-watt titanium heater
My lighting schedule is 10:00 A.M.–10:00 P.M., with periods of white, blue, and deep blue. To ensure the health and success of my growing reef, I monitor the tank using a GHL ProfiLux 4 controller paired with a Doser 2.2. This setup allows me to maintain precise control over my water parameters, which is especially important for Acropora. I target carbonate hardness between 7.5 and 8 dKH, calcium at 440 ppm, and magnesium at 1,360 ppm.
I've been fortunate to build a diverse collection of reef fish over the years. My fish are fed Mysis shrimp once a day and New Life Spectrum pellets through an Eheim autofeeder four times a day.
Mandarin Dragonet Electronics and dosing cabinet
Melanurus Wrasse
Gem Tang
FISH
• Achilles Tang
• Gem Tang
• Blue Tang
• Purple Tang
• Leopard Wrasse
• Melanurus Wrasse
• Radiant Wrasse
• (2) Yellow Wrasse
• Sixline Wrasse
• Mandarin Dragonet
• Moorish Idol
• Banggai Cardinalfish
• (4) Lyretail Anthias (1 male, 3 female)
• Storm Clownfish
• Picasso Clownfish
• Algae Blenny
• Copperband Butterflyfish
• Bluethroat Triggerfish
• (2) Yellowtail Blue Damsel
I perform 20 percent water changes monthly and dose Aquaforest Component Pro to ensure a steady supply of both trace and major elements. Additionally, I dose kalkwasser at night, mainly to stabilize pH and maintain calcium and alkalinity. This routine has helped create the stable environment needed for Acropora to thrive.
Transitioning toward an Acropora-dominated reef system has been a rewarding challenge, but my love for zoas remains strong, as they were the corals that started it all for me. Watching both my zoas and Acropora thrive under careful monitoring has been incredibly fulfilling, and I’m excited to see where my reefing journey will take me next. R
Purple Tang Moorish Idol
