Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q3 2024

Page 1


A BALANCED APPROACH

WATER TESTING TO WATER PARAMETERS

REEFS OF NORTH SULAWESI

EVOLUTION

OF

FEATURES

© 2024 Reef Hobbyist Magazine. All rights reserved.

SOFTIE CORNER REEF

Based in Switzerland, Manuel Amrein has been dedicated to aquariums for over 10 years. After nearly leaving the hobby, Manuel instead refocused his priorities, which led to the creation of this beautiful softie reef.

DIVING THE REMARKABLE REEFS OF NORTH SULAWESI

Nicole Helgason is a professional scuba diver and a coral-loving content creator for the reef aquarium community. Dive into the waters of North Sulawesi that are home to some of the largest and most robust coral reefs in the world.

ON THE COVER

A BALANCED APPROACH TO WATER PARAMETERS

Keith Moyle is a 47-year veteran reefer and owner of Kahuna Reef Motivation. The health of a home reef depends on a careful balancing of multiple parameters. Join Keith for a brief explication of these factors and their complex interplay.

THE FLOATING REEF

Michael Raymond Harman is a nano reef enthusiast who takes pleasure in creating atypical marine displays. The dramatic visual impact of this floating reef is undeniable. Learn about its construction and maintenance here.

IN - HOME WATER TESTING: THE EVOLUTION CONTINUES

Brian Weinzierl lives in Iowa and has been reefkeeping since 2003. Water testing provides the data needed to head off problems and plan maintenance, dosing, and feeding. Here Brian reviews the evolution of in-home testing to help you choose your best options.

BLOOD, SWEAT, AND CORALS

Jeremy Whatley is a self-proclaimed common hobbyist of 20 years still trying to perfect reef husbandry. This beautiful and mature SPS coral reef is the result of Jeremy’s decades of experience and persistence in mastering the hobby. 6 10 40 28 34 46

PRODUCT REVIEW: HELLOREEF CLOWNFISH & ANEMONE AQUARIUM KIT

Jim Adelberg is the executive editor for RHM. HelloReef has reimagined the all-in-one reef tank with quality equipment and a comprehensive web experience that fully supports the beginner.

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Softie Corner Reef

Inspired by the television show Tanked, I bought my first saltwater aquarium 9 years ago. I remember walking into a local fish store and seeing reef fish and corals for the first time. I was mesmerized by all the colors and knew immediately that this was going to be my new hobby. Soon after, I bought a Red Sea Reefer 250 as my first tank, and larger aquariums followed.

A year and a half ago, we purchased a new apartment, and I considered giving up the hobby when we moved. I had become a

father and wasn't sure I'd have time for reefkeeping anymore. But the idea of an in-wall aquarium built into a corner space intrigued me. I started planning and discussed my goals with the architects. Once the dimensions of the system were finalized, a room behind the wall was built for the tank, stand, and equipment. We chose linoleum for the flooring and added a water tap, creating a dedicated space for the entire system. It was important to me that I could simply close a door to hide all the equipment and leave the living room looking neat and tidy with just a view of the display. After the

MANUEL AMREIN

apartment was finished, I had a base plate with supports installed by a carpenter. This allowed me to easily slide the acrylic aquarium into place. Once the tank was filled with water, the carpenter returned and we measured for the black frame that would conceal the sand and water line.

My goal with this system was to create a beautiful soft coral and anemone display that would be much less demanding than the tanks full of stony corals I had previously kept.

SPECIFICATIONS

Display: New Wave, acrylic

Dimensions: ~42" × 42" × 20"

Skimmer: Maxspect Jump SK400

Lighting: (2) Reef Flare Pro L

Return Pump: Blau Reef Motion 8KDC

Flow Pump: (2) EcoTech Marine VorTech MP40

Fleece Filter: Tropic Creations Roller Clean 200

Underwater Polisher: Panta CD42

FISH

• (5) Pajama Cardinalfish

• (3) Six-line Wrasse

• (2) Percula Clownfish

• (2) Firefish Goby

• Bicolor Blenny

• Wheeler's Goby

• Diadem Dottyback

• Neon Dottyback

• Indigo Dottyback

• Royal Dottyback

• Flame Angelfish

Front view
Rear view

INVERTEBRATES

• (5) Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp

• (4) Skunk Cleaner Shrimp

• (3) Strombus spp. (conch)

• (2) Sabellastarte magnifica (feather duster worm)

• pistol shrimp

• Sally Lightfoot Crab

• Pom Pom Crab

• Ctenoides scaber (Flame Scallop)

• Protula bispiralis (Coco Worm)

• Entacmaea quadricolor (Rose Bubble-tip Anemone)

CORALS

• (2) Gorgonia spp. (sea fan)

• Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae (Sea Plume Gorgonian)

• Ricordea yuma (Yuma Mushroom)

• Rhodactis mussoides (giant mushroom)

• Klyxum sp. (cabbage leather)

• Capnella sp. (Kenya tree coral)

• Knopia octocontacanalis (Daisy Polyps)

• Litophyton sp. (soft finger coral)

• Rhodactis inchoata (Bullseye Mushroom)

These are my favorites, but there are a lot more!

I feed 3 to 4 times a day with brine shrimp, Mysis, and algae. I usually feed the brine shrimp in suspended form from NYOS, which allows all the soft corals to benefit from it as well.

Since this tank only houses soft corals, it's not critical if a water parameter deviates slightly from its target. The fleece filter removes quite a lot of waste from the aquarium, and I do a 10 percent water change every 2 weeks. This keeps the water parameters very stable. The nutrient levels are occasionally a bit elevated, but the soft corals and anemone love it.

Lighting requirements for soft corals are also less demanding. I set my Reef Flare Pro L to 20 percent power with the UV channel at zero. This is entirely sufficient, and the lower lighting level keeps the algae growth to a minimum. Since setting up the lights, I've rarely had to make any adjustments. I only increase the white balance a bit for photos, but it is immediately reset afterward.

With this simpler system, I can leave it alone for a few days without any issues. In the past when I kept stony corals, I had to test the water parameters every other day. Now, I can spend more of my time enjoying the aquarium.

At the time of this writing, the system has only been running for 3 months, so I don't have any upgrades planned yet. There may be a few more corals and small fish added in the future, but overall, I'm happy with how things are going.

After 9 years of reefkeeping, I'd reached a point where I was contemplating whether or not I wanted to stay in the hobby. Reefkeeping can be very time consuming, intense, and expensive, but in the end, I'm glad I didn't give it up. I wanted a tank as beautiful as a hard-coral display that I could enjoy without the heavy workload, and thankfully, I've been able to make that dream reef come to life. R

DIVING THE REMARKABLE REEFS OF NORTH SULAWESI

NICOLE HELGASON

Manado, the capital city of the Indonesian province of North Sulawesi, is a surprising hotspot for world-class reef diving. Despite the encroaching shopping malls and tourism development, just a short boat ride from the city are some of the most unique coral habitats I've ever seen. We explored the dive sites of North Sulawesi with Murex Dive Resorts to document these seldom-visited reefs. When I began to explore and document the coral reefs of Indonesia, Murex Dive Resorts was the first resort to help me, a crazy coral dreamer.

NORTH SULAWESI: HOME TO MASSIVE CORAL COLONIES

Something that struck me about Manado Bay is the abundance of massive coral communities. Batas Kota, in particular, is home to one

of the world's largest congregations of hammer coral (Fimbriaphyllia ancora [previously Euphyllia ancora]), composed of dozens if not hundreds of overlapping colonies and the size of a house. At Lobo Loco, you'll find vast bommies of Lobophyllia corals that would be hard to cover in a single 60-minute dive, and across the bay in Bunaken National Marine Park at Fukui Point, there are huge Turbinaria peltata colonies the size of a soccer field.

Sometimes you have to step back to appreciate just how big, old, and healthy these reefs truly are. The enormous colonies not only provide a stunning visual experience but also play a crucial role in the marine ecosystem, offering habitat and protection for countless marine species. Additionally, their genetics are a seed bank for reefs in the surrounding areas.

Fukui Point

GEOGRAPHY OF MANADO BAY, CELEBES SEA, AND THE INDONESIAN THROUGHFLOW CURRENT

To understand what makes the reefs in Manado Bay so special, it's important to first appreciate the bay's underwater geography. This expansive bay plunges to depths greater than 5,250 feet, far beneath the range of recreational scuba divers. All the accessible dive sites in Manado are found along the shallow shore and across the bay around the Bunaken Islands.

The deep bay plays a crucial role in regulating and replenishing these reef habitats in Manado and the Bunaken Islands due to its vast volume of water and swift-moving currents. Zooming out on the coastal geography reveals more massive bodies of water dominated by strong currents.

The Celebes Sea, which is the larger sea north of Manado, is even deeper, with an average depth of 13,000 feet. Its greatest recorded depth is 20,406 feet. The Celebes Sea borders Manado Bay, North Sulawesi, Borneo, and the Philippines. This deep body of water helps regulate the ocean temperatures in the region and has helped stave off large-scale bleaching events.

All of this water is on the move, rushing past Sulawesi in the Indonesian Throughflow current. This current is the largest movement of water on the planet and runs from north to south through the Celebes Sea basin and past the west coast of Sulawesi. The swift current brings a constant supply of fresh, cool oceanic water, further protecting the reefs from bleaching.

This is also a critical ocean current for global climate regulation. This current explains why Indonesia, and in particular Manado Bay, still has some of the most diverse coral reefs in the world.

Now that we've gone through the geography, on to the corals!

BATAS KOTA: THE CITY BORDER

One of my favorite sites in Manado Bay is Batas Kota, which means "city border." The dive begins on a sandy flat dotted with rows of coral restoration frames. To the west, just past the sandy area, the natural reef comes into sight, stretching from 23 feet down to 65 feet. Here, impressive stands of Acropora mix with other branching and plating corals. You could easily spend an entire dive exploring just a few hundred feet of this terrain, enjoying the numerous microhabitats and vast array of coral species. Even seasoned coral-spotting experts will be amazed by the diversity here.

Initially, you'll encounter numerous brown, branching Acropora formosa corals mixed with colorful blue Acropora intermedia. There are also flower-shaped petals of plating Echinopora lamellosa and small yellow Sarcophyton toadstool corals in the sandy pockets. Above the expansive coral stands, schools of chromis swim, and among the coral colonies, you can find magnificently colored sea anemones in bright blue, purple, and red.

The size of the coral colonies at Batas Kota is impressive, indicating the corals' old age. You'll notice huge colonies of plating Acropora cytherea, mountainous colonies of Fimbriaphyllia ancora, and large pale-purple Turbinaria peltata.

Indonesian Throughflow current | Google Maps

The fact that this vibrant coral site is located just offshore of a rapidly developing city is astonishing. It's crucial that places like this are protected from rapid coastal development.

FIMBRIAPHYLLIA DREAMS: GORONG GORONG

North of Batas Kota, you will find the Fimbriaphyllia Dream Reef, known locally as Gorong Gorong, meaning "the big pipe." The reef starts at 16 feet deep and is only 65 feet from shore. Despite its proximity to a large pipe that empties rainwater and runoff into the sea, this reef thrives, thanks to the bay's constant water movement that brings nutrients and removes waste.

This unique habitat supports massive colonies of Fimbriaphyllia ancora stretching far along the coast. During our dive at Gorong Gorong, we were amazed by the size of these colonies, some over 16 feet in diameter. Given their slow rate of growth, these colonies are likely hundreds of years old. The size and health of these corals are testaments to the nutrient-rich environment of Manado Bay, supported by the deep upwelling currents from the bay's center.

The Fimbriaphyllia Dream Reef is not only remarkable for its size but also for its proximity to the developing city of Manado. Unfortunately, there have been proposals to reclaim some of this waterfront area, backfilling it with rocks and sand for more coastal development.

Mature reefs have a high sexual production rate and can act as seed banks for surrounding areas, providing much-needed hope for future generations of corals. No amount of reef restoration could ever bring back such an abundant and expansive coral reef, not in our lifetime nor the next generation's. Protecting habitats like Fimbriaphyllia Dream Reef is vital.

CRITTER CIRCUS: BOTTLE BRUSH FIELDS

At the western end of Manado Bay is a dive site named Critter Circus. This site is home to the largest stand of bottle brush Acropora I've ever laid eyes on. The term "bottle brush" describes the shape or growth form of certain Acropora corals, characterized by thick branches and long, closely spaced tubular corallites.

As you begin your dive at Critter Circus, you will first encounter thick clusters of bottle brush Acropora mixed with large Turbinaria and scrolling Echinopora colonies. Soon, the sheer number of these corals in this extensive reef becomes apparent.

There are several species of Acropora that form this bottlebrush branch shape, but the dominant species at Critter Circus is Acropora turaki. This species is distinguished by long, tube-like corallites and upright main branches that form dense clumps. If you look closely, you'll notice at least three different color morphs of this species—reddish brown, green, and purple—all living in close proximity without conflict. This color diversity is a striking feature of the Critter Circus dive site.

LOBO LOCO REEF: A HIDDEN GEM

As we continue west along the bay, we find an incredibly huge Lobophyllia reef we nicknamed "Lobo Loco Reef." Located just

Gorong Gorong with its enormous Fimbriaphyllia colonies
Huge colonies of Acropora among other branching and plating corals at Batas Kota
A vast field of Acropora turaki at Critter Circus

a short boat ride from the Critter Circus dive site, this reef features a vast field of Lobophyllia corals, sprawling from 15 to 50 feet deep.

Lobophyllia, commonly known as brain corals, are characterized by their lobe-like structures. Each lobe contains several polyps and forms a large, solid stalk, with thick tissue covering the skeleton at the top. The lobes grow closely together, giving them a brain-like appearance. Different species of Lobophyllia exhibit varying lobe sizes and shapes, and the same species can display a wide diversity of color patterns.

The size and structure of these stalked brain corals suggest this is an ancient reef, reaching far back in time. Lobo Loco Reef is a hidden gem that showcases the incredible diversity and age of Lobophyllia corals. The combination of various species and colors, along with the sheer size of the colonies, makes this site a must-visit for any diver in Manado Bay.

FUKUI POINT: THE ULTIMATE CORAL DIVE IN BUNAKEN NATIONAL MARINE PARK

Fukui Point, located across Manado Bay on the western side of Bunaken Island and within the national park, is easily one of the best coral dives in the region. The shallow areas are covered with huge

colonies of healthy branching corals, and the reef slopes have some of the most expansive fields of plating corals I've ever seen.

BRANCHING CORALS

When you drop into Fukui Point, you're met with an extensive field of branching corals in pastel pinks, greens, and vibrant blues. The branching Acropora corals start just below the surface, at around 6 to 16 feet deep, depending on the tides. Large schools of fish swim about, taking shelter beneath dive boats, schooling above reefs, or darting past divers.

Coral reefs are home to over 25 percent of all fish species, and large stands of branching Acropora like these make up the primary habitat for all sorts of marine life. Smaller fish, eels, and invertebrates live amongst the branches. There are even some large coral bommies in Fukui that are well-known habitats for baby Whitetip Sharks.

PLATING CORALS

After enjoying the field of Acropora at Fukui Point, I swam down the reef slope and discovered layers of plating coral as far I could see. At first glance, it appears that all these corals are the same, but there is a distinct line at around 50 feet deep where one species ends and another begins.

At the top of the reef, you start to find thin plating Echinopora lamellosa, covering approximately 26 feet of vertical space and over 165 feet horizontally. Echinopora forms thin, delicate plates that grow quickly to an impressive size. These corals cover the reef slope between 16 and 42 feet deep. Near the lower edges of the Echinopora colonies, we found a few plates being guarded by damselfish, which clear patches of coral to farm their favorite algae close to home.

Around 42 to 50 feet deep, the tiered Echinopora plates give way to Mycedium corals. At this depth, you'll see both Mycedium elephantotus and Mycedium robokaki Mycedium corals can tolerate lower light and have larger polyps, allowing them to survive on the lower reef slope.

In the band of reef between the dominant species, I found a few clusters of plating corals such as Pachyseris, Oxypora, and Turbinaria, eking out a living. These corals stand out with unique shapes and colors, contributing to the overall visual diversity of this reef.

While the Acropora corals are the main event at Fukui Point, there are still a few bonus corals worth mentioning. At the very southern

Lobo Loco Reef features Lobophyllia corals of many species and colors.

end of the V-shaped point, I found a cluster of Turbinaria peltata. These grayish-purple corals have large extended polyps and form thick overlapping plates on the side and upward-stretching columns in the center of the colony.

BUNAKEN NATIONAL MARINE PARK: A CONSERVATION SUCCESS STORY

Bunaken National Marine Park, established in 1991, was Indonesia's first national marine park. This park has significantly contributed to coral conservation in the area. Despite destructive practices in surrounding regions, the reefs of North Sulawesi have remained

relatively intact, highlighting the importance of marine protected areas and sustainable dive tourism. Bunaken's protected reefs have flourished and serve as a sanctuary for countless marine species and a beacon of hope for coral conservation efforts worldwide.

Since 2018, I've been fortunate to be a part of Ocean Gardener, a coral conservation NGO. Founded by Vincent Chalias, Ocean Gardener is a growing organization dedicated to saving coral reefs in Indonesia. Vincent has spent over 20 years growing corals as a business and is now working to bring this knowledge back to the scuba diving and coral conservation world. Ocean Gardener is committed to education and coral restoration and has planted over 100,000 corals back to the reef, including many in North Sulawesi.

CORAL DREAMER

When I joined Ocean Gardener, I already had years of experience working within the dive tourism industry and as an aquarium blogger. My role at Ocean Gardener was to help develop an introductory course for scuba divers and snorkelers to learn about corals. Ocean Gardener uses popular aquarium terms like SPS (small-polyp stony) and LPS (large-polyp stony)

The spectacular reefscape of Fukui Point

corals to help divers recognize coral diversity and build a deeper connection with these animals.

This course is now being taught at more than a dozen dive centers around Indonesia, including Murex Dive Resorts, who were the first to believe in our passion for their local corals. It is very rewarding to see that Murex continues to teach the course to tourists and is also committed to training their local Indonesian dive team and resident marine biologist on how to care for and restore the reef. It's hopeful to see the work of Ocean Gardener advancing scientific research and empowering Indonesian marine conservationists.

CORAL CONSERVATION

The reason I continue to share the stories of these incredible reefs is that even with the robust natural water flow that helps buffer them, the risk of losing these reefs to development and climate change is growing. Projects to build docks and reclaim land by dredging and backfilling have already caused irreversible damage in some places, so it is crucial to raise awareness about what is at stake.

My journey through scuba diving, marine conservation, and reef aquariums has been unexpected but profoundly fulfilling. I'm thrilled that I've found a way to merge my passion for coral diving with meaningful conservation work, and I'm excited about the prospects of growing a community of coral enthusiasts, one dive at a time. R

The author planting corals at the Ocean Gardener coral nursery

A Balanced Approach to Water Parameters

The attraction of a vibrant reef aquarium is undeniable, captivating enthusiasts with a kaleidoscope of colors and diverse marine life. However, a delicate balance of parameters is essential for the health and sustainability of such an aquarium.

THE SCIENCE OF A BALANCED AQUARIUM

The core and foundation of every successful reef aquarium lies in balanced parameters. These parameters encompass various aspects of water chemistry, as well as temperature, flow, and lighting levels, each playing a crucial role in sustaining life within the aquarium. Achieving equilibrium is essential to creating an environment conducive for coral growth and the well-being of the tank's inhabitants. In this article, I'll provide an overview of key reef tank parameters and discuss how some of them interact. I'll also cover the impact of these parameters being outside their desired range and specifically the consequences of some being either too high or too low.

TEMPERATURE

Most reef aquarists aim to keep water temperatures between 75° F and 82° F (24° C to 28° C), as this range is suitable for most tropical coral and fish species. Temperature fluctuations can stress or even kill inhabitants.

HIGH TEMPERATURE

Coral bleaching: Corals have a symbiotic relationship with algae called zooxanthellae, which provide corals with energy. High temperatures can stress corals, causing them to expel the algae, resulting in coral bleaching (as we are witnessing on coral reefs today). Oxygen depletion: Warmer water holds less oxygen, which can lead to suffocation of fish and other organisms in the aquarium. Increased metabolic rates: High temperatures can increase the metabolic rate of organisms, which may lead to higher stress, reduced longevity, and increased susceptibility to diseases. Altered behaviors: Fish and other organisms may become lethargic or display abnormal behaviors in response to high temperatures.

LOW TEMPERATURE

Reduced metabolic rates: Cold temperatures can slow down the metabolic rates of organisms, leading to reduced growth rates and compromised immune systems. Increased susceptibility to diseases: Cold-stressed organisms are more susceptible to

diseases such as bacterial and fungal infections, which can potentially lead to death. Reduced coral growth: Cold temperatures can inhibit the growth of corals and other calcifying organisms.

SALINITY

Measured in parts per thousand (ppt), or coupled with temperature as specific gravity, salinity should ideally be around 35 ppt or between 1.024 and 1.026 specific gravity. Fluctuations in salinity can disrupt organisms' osmoregulation and stress or kill sensitive animals.

HIGH SALINITY (HYPERSALINITY)

Dehydration: High salinity can cause dehydration in marine organisms due to osmotic stress. Reduced oxygen levels: Elevated salinity levels decrease oxygen solubility, leading to hypoxia (low oxygen levels), which can be fatal for aquatic life. Stress and mortality: Marine organisms, especially sensitive coral and fish species, can become stressed or die if exposed to excessively high salinity for prolonged periods. Altered behaviors: Persistent high salinity may alter the behavior of aquarium inhabitants, leading to abnormal feeding patterns, reduced activity, or aggression.

An example of coral bleaching caused by high temperatures
Accurate salinity measurements are easy using electronic devices such as this Hanna Salinity Tester.

LOW SALINITY (HYPOSALINITY)

Osmotic shock: Rapid changes to lower salinity can result in osmotic shock for marine organisms, disrupting their internal balance of salt and water. Increased susceptibility to disease: Prolonged hyposalinity weakens the immune systems of marine life, making them more susceptible to diseases such as bacterial infections and parasites. Coral bleaching: Sudden drops in salinity can stress corals, leading to coral bleaching. Reduced growth and reproduction: Marine organisms may experience reduced growth rates and reproductive success in low-salinity conditions, impacting the overall health of the reef ecosystem.

pH AND ALKALINITY

Aquarium pH should be stable, ideally between 8.1 and 8.4. Fluctuations can impede the ability of corals to form their skeletons and affect the health of other organisms. Alkalinity measures the buffering capacity of the water against pH fluctuations and is typically maintained between 7 and 12 dKH (degrees of carbonate hardness). The consequences of high or low levels are manifested by the impact of high or low pH values as detailed below.

HIGH pH (ALKALINE)

Calcium precipitation: High pH can lead to the precipitation of calcium carbonate that can coat corals, inhibiting their growth and health. Impaired calcification: Corals and other calcifying organisms may struggle to build their calcium carbonate skeletons in excessively alkaline conditions. Toxicity: Some chemicals, like ammonia, become more toxic at higher pH levels, potentially harming fish and invertebrates. Altered biological

High nutrient levels can cause hair-algae outbreaks.

processes: High pH can disrupt biological processes in organisms, leading to stress and decreased immunity.

LOW pH (ACIDIC)

Coral bleaching: Low pH can stress corals and lead to coral bleaching, causing them to expel the symbiotic algae that provide energy. Reduced calcification: Acidic conditions can hinder the ability of corals and other calcifying organisms to build their skeletons, leading to weakened structures. Toxic metal release: Low pH may cause the release of toxic metals like lead and copper from substrates and decorations, harming marine life. Respiratory problems: Fish may experience respiratory issues in acidic conditions, affecting their overall health and potentially leading to death.

AMMONIA, NITRITE, AND NITRATE

These are components of the nitrogen cycle and should be kept at very low levels. Ammonia and nitrite are highly toxic to fish and invertebrates and should test at 0 parts per million (ppm), and while high nitrate levels can lead to algae blooms and inhibit coral growth, many successful reefers keep nitrates in the 10 to 15 ppm range.

HIGH NITRATE

Algae overgrowth: Excessive nitrates can fuel the growth of nuisance algae, smothering corals and carpeting rocks. Stress: High nitrate levels can stress corals, leading to decreased growth rates, diminished coloration, and increased susceptibility to diseases. Reduced oxygen levels: High nitrate can contribute to reduced oxygen levels in the water, potentially causing stress to fish and other inhabitants. Harm to invertebrates: Some invertebrates, such as certain species of snails and crustaceans, can be sensitive to high nitrates, leading to negative impacts on their health and reproduction.

LOW NITRATE

Nutrient deficiency: Nitrate serves as a nutrient source for corals and other photosynthetic organisms in the reef aquarium. Insufficient nitrate can lead to nutrient deficiency, affecting the growth and health of these animals. Reduced pigmentation: Corals may exhibit a pale or bleached appearance due to inadequate nutrient availability, including nitrate. Reduced biological filtration: Nitrate is a product of the nitrogen cycle and is typically produced by beneficial bacteria in the aquarium. Low nitrate may indicate insufficient biological filtration, potentially leading to ammonia and nitrite spikes that are toxic to aquatic life.

CALCIUM

Corals use calcium to build their skeletons. For most reef aquariums, calcium levels should be maintained between 400 and 450 ppm. Calcium interacts with alkalinity and magnesium levels, so all three parameters must be balanced for optimal coral health.

HIGH CALCIUM

Alkalinity imbalance: High calcium can lead to an imbalance in the aquarium's alkalinity. Alkalinity is important for pH stability, and when calcium is excessively high, it can cause alkalinity to drop, leading to pH fluctuations that can stress and harm corals and other

marine life. Precipitation: Excess calcium can precipitate out of the water, forming unsightly deposits on the aquarium glass, rocks, and equipment. These deposits can also impede the growth of corals and other organisms by covering available surfaces. Inhibition of other ion uptake: Extremely high calcium levels can inhibit the uptake of other essential ions like magnesium. This can disrupt the balance of the aquarium's chemistry and harm coral health.

LOW CALCIUM

Coral growth inhibition: Corals require calcium to build their calcium carbonate skeletons. Insufficient calcium can hinder the growth of coral skeletons, leading to stunted growth or skeletal deformities.

Weakening of coral skeletons: Low calcium levels can result in weakened coral skeletons, making them more susceptible to damage from physical disturbances or predation. This can increase the risk of coral mortality. Unstable alkalinity: Calcium and alkalinity are closely linked in a reef aquarium. Low calcium can destabilize alkalinity, leading to pH swings and stress on marine life.

MAGNESIUM

Magnesium should be maintained between 1,250 and 1,350 ppm. Magnesium interacts with calcium and alkalinity to promote correct coral skeleton formation and growth.

HIGH MAGNESIUM (HYPERMAGNESEMIA)

Excess magnesium can inhibit the uptake of calcium carbonate, leading to decreased calcification rates in corals. This can hinder their growth and skeletal development. Alkalinity may become depleted, as excess magnesium can interfere with the buffering capacity of the water, causing pH instability. In extreme cases, high magnesium can lead to toxicity issues for some marine organisms, causing stress or even death.

LOW MAGNESIUM (HYPOMAGNESEMIA)

Calcium and alkalinity may become unstable, leading to fluctuations that can stress and harm corals and other invertebrates. Coral growth may be stunted or inhibited, and the skeletal structure of corals may weaken. In severe cases, low magnesium levels can contribute to the precipitation of calcium carbonate, forming unsightly deposits on aquarium surfaces.

Calcium reactors are an effective way of maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels.

PHOSPHATE

Phosphate levels should be kept very low, with most successful reef aquarists maintaining levels below 0.05 ppm. Phosphate levels influence coral calcification and alkalinity stability.

HIGH PHOSPHATE

Algae overgrowth: Excessive phosphates can fuel the growth of nuisance algae such as green hair algae, cyanobacteria (red slime algae), and diatoms. This can lead to unsightly outbreaks in the tank and suffocate corals and other desirable organisms by blocking light and competing for nutrients. Coral bleaching: High phosphates can contribute to coral stress, leading to coral bleaching. This occurs when corals expel their symbiotic algae due to stress, which can result in the death of corals if not addressed promptly. Reduced calcification: Elevated phosphate can inhibit the calcification process in corals, leading to weakened skeletal structures and hindering growth.

LOW PHOSPHATE

Reduced coral growth: Phosphates are essential for coral growth and calcification. Insufficient phosphate levels can impede coral growth and skeletal development, resulting in weakened or stunted corals. Unstable alkalinity: Low phosphate can be associated with low nutrient levels overall, which may destabilize alkalinity levels in the aquarium. Alkalinity is critical for maintaining pH stability and providing essential carbonate ions for coral calcification. Nutrient deficiency: Phosphates are a vital nutrient for all living organisms in the aquarium, including corals, algae, and beneficial bacteria. Inadequate phosphate levels can lead to nutrient deficiencies impacting the overall health and vitality of the ecosystem.

INTERACTIONS OF PARAMETERS

It's clear from the earlier narrative that the parameters within a reef aquarium are intricately intertwined, with deviations in one parameter often creating ripple effects in others. For instance, fluctuations in pH levels can influence alkalinity, affecting coral calcification processes and overall carbonate chemistry equilibrium. Similarly, nutrient imbalances can trigger shifts in microbial populations, leading to fluctuations in water chemistry and oxygen levels. Understanding these dynamic relationships is imperative for maintaining equilibrium and preempting potential disruptions within the reef ecosystem.

FURTHER CONSIDERATIONS

In addition to water chemistry, other variables such as lighting and water flow also impact the equilibrium within an aquarium. Due to the complexity of customizing both lighting and flow for individual environments and animals, and the need to readjust these variables as a reef grows to maturity, only general considerations will be outlined here.

Lighting: Correct lighting is essential for photosynthetic organisms like corals and certain types of algae. The intensity, spectrum, and duration of lighting should be tailored to the specific needs of the organisms in the aquarium. Excessive lighting will stress corals and shy fish, while inadequate lighting can kill corals and make it difficult for fish to find their food. Water flow: Adequate water flow is crucial for maintaining water quality, distributing nutrients, and

preventing detritus buildup. It also helps corals obtain food and oxygen. Excessive flow will physically stress and injure corals, while inadequate flow will reduce available dissolved oxygen and food delivery to benthic organisms.

WATER TESTING

Accurate water testing is essential to understanding your aquarium's water quality and the balance of parameters. High-quality test kits are readily available, but for ultimate accuracy, laboratory ICP (inductively coupled plasma) testing is recommended.

AUTOMATION

Specialized equipment that can both measure and adjust major elements to defined target values is available, which ensures your tank's parameters remain in balance. Potassium, sodium, and nitrate can also be monitored and controlled by some devices such as the GHL Ion Director.

THE REDFIELD RATIO

Defined by oceanographer Alfred C. Redfield in 1934, the Redfield Ratio describes the elemental composition of phytoplankton and its relation to the major nutrients in seawater. It refers to the stoichiometric ratio of carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorus (C:N:P) in

phytoplankton, which is approximately 106:16:1. In reef aquariums, this ratio is significant because it reflects the ideal balance of nutrients necessary for the growth of corals and other organisms. Corals, like phytoplankton, require certain nutrients in specific proportions to thrive. This ratio also allows aquarists to understand and maintain the appropriate nutrient levels in their tanks to promote coral health and growth. For example, if the nutrient levels in an aquarium deviate significantly from the Redfield Ratio, it can lead to problems such as algae blooms or coral bleaching. Therefore, aquarists often monitor and adjust the levels of carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorus in their tanks to mimic natural seawater as closely as possible, aiming for a balanced ratio conducive to coral growth and ecosystem health.

CONCLUSION

Achieving balanced parameters is paramount for the long-term health and vitality of reef aquariums. By consistently monitoring and adjusting water chemistry, temperature, lighting, and nutrient levels, aquarists can create a stable environment conducive to coral growth and flourishing marine life. The pursuit of chemical and biochemical balance in reef aquariums parallels the delicate harmony of natural ecosystems, where equilibrium fosters resilience and sustainability. As hobbyists, it is our responsibility to uphold this balance, preserving the beauty and diversity of reef ecosystems for generations to come. R

Natural harmony—a healthy coral reef exemplifies a balanced ecosystem.

The Floating Reef

MICHAEL RAYMOND HARMAN

Nano reefing has quickly become one of my favorite niche interests within reefkeeping. I love these little ecosystems that I get to create, and they bring me pure enjoyment. Some people will tell you to start big; I'm not one of them. To me, a nano is the perfect tool for learning water chemistry management and the effects of coral warfare. Locking in the three major parameters (alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium) and then managing nutrients is arguably more difficult in a smaller system but certainly manageable.

I created this "floating" reef in June of 2023. The tank itself is the Waterbox 10. To make the rock structure appear to float, I first took a piece of acrylic, cut it down to size, heated it, and formed it into an "L" shape. From there, I used aquarium-safe silicone to attach it to the back glass panel and let it cure. To build the rock structure, I used silicone to attach pieces of CaribSea LifeRock rubble to the acrylic.

My maintenance routine for this little tank has evolved over time. For a while, I was using the water out of my 20-gallon, low-nutrient, SPS (small-polyp stony) coral system to perform weekly water changes. I dosed everything I needed into the SPS system, so I had a pretty good idea of what my parameters would be in this small tank. But due to changes in my SPS tank, I stopped using that tank's water and now have a Reef Factory Pro X1 dosing pump maintaining this tank's parameters with Tropic Marin's All-For-Reef. I'm dosing 2.5 mL every day to keep my alkalinity at 9 dKH and calcium at 420 ppm. Monthly water changes with Fritz salt keeps my magnesium in check, at around 1,350 to 1,380 ppm. For nutrients, I like to keep my nitrate between 10 and 15 ppm and my phosphate between 0.10 and 0.15 ppm. When I see these levels creeping up, I do a 2-gallon

Floating rock structure attached to rear tank wall

water change. I also give credit to the drop-in automatic filter roller from Reef N Rolls. The fine micron mat really helps my nano stay clean with less work.

While featuring a mix of LPS (large-polyp stony) corals and soft corals in this tank, I also managed to grow some SPS in there. Unfortunately, the SPS have suffered from the rapid growth of neighboring LPS. I've never had issues with soft corals integrating closely with LPS, but the SPS don't like to. I ended up repurposing my shaded-out monti cap as a structure for new coral growth. Currently, I am growing a zoa garden on top of it. Tanks evolve, and sometimes things happen for the better. I also have four fish in this system—a Flurry Clownfish, Banggai Cardinal, Tail-spot Blenny, and Possum Wrasse. They produce a dependable load of nitrates.

For lighting, I have two Illumagic Pixels from Dalua International. These are remarkably strong lights, while drawing only 20 watts each. The only reason I have two of them is because I like my spectrum whiter during the day. So in the mornings and evenings, I only run the Pixel Fragger (blue spectrum), and in the 4-hour midday

peak, I run the Pixel Reefer (mixed spectrum) at 80 percent while the Fragger ramps down to around 20 percent.

I have two pumps at work in this system. The looped hose in the center filtration chamber is from a Sicce nano pump forcing water through the carbon. I don't rely on the water moving through the chambers alone to drive enough water through the media, and I believe this setup maximizes my water clarity. The return pump—a ZKSJ BT-700— was one of the best purchases I've made. It has a high turnover rate and even has a nice pulse option so I don't have to run a wavemaker. It's a great compact centrifugal pump design.

This tank has quickly become one of my favorite projects. In the future, I may consider adding a controller to the system, but for now, I'm looking forward to just seeing how it progresses and continues to evolve. If you've considered a small tank but have been hesitant, know that with a little time, money, and attention, nano tanks can be very rewarding. R

IN-HOME WATER TESTING: THE EVOLUTION CONTINUES

Testing our reef tank's water parameters is undeniably important. Water testing helps us understand the state of our water's chemistry and allows us to refine our maintenance practices to ensure the health of our animals. Throughout the years, in-home water testing has continued to evolve alongside the reefkeeping hobby. Today, some of our in-home test equipment have digital displays, WiFi connectivity, trend reporting, alerts via mobile apps, and even automated dosing. However, the demand for traditional reef test kits still remains strong. Since there seems to be something for everyone, let's go over the advantages, disadvantages, and costs of the various methods to help you decide what might be the best fit for your situation.

When deciding what types of tests to use, it is important to consider the costs (upfront and ongoing), convenience, accuracy, and resolution of each device or kit. In this article, we'll focus on in-home water testing of the most commonly reagent-tested parameters: alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, and nitrate.

Reagents are chemicals that react to the particular substance we're measuring and are used in test kits as liquids or embedded in test strips. Reagent-based tests can either be colorimetric, where the results are matched against a standardized color reference, or titrated, where drops of reagent are added until a certain reaction is achieved.

BRIAN WEINZIERL

TEST STRIPS

Test strips have been around for decades. These disposable strips are designed to be a quick, convenient, and budget-friendly solution for measuring the most important water parameters of reef aquariums. These kits can be purchased for single parameters, though some can test multiple parameters on a single strip, saving hobbyists even more time and money. For some hobbyists, test strips serve as a convenient tool for rapid assessments, offering a quick glimpse into whether parameters are within acceptable ranges or whether further testing is warranted.

Test strips are typically low resolution, meaning the results don't provide detailed enough readings for accurate dosing. These tests are not recommended for testing aquariums with sensitive animals, as relatively substantial changes could go undetected.

Tips: Before purchasing test strips, make sure the results are given in an appropriate range and broken into practical increment sizes for your requirements. And make sure that you can clearly distinguish the results on the color reference. Test strips may contain chemical reagents that aren't intended to enter your aquarium, so check the instructions to see if you'll need to dip the strips into a separate container of tank water. Lastly, check the expiration date of the test strips if you get a suspicious result.

Cost: The Aquarium Münster Aquavital Marine Test 5in1 (tests alkalinity, calcium, pH, nitrate, and nitrite) includes 50 strips for about $30.

SOLUTION-BASED TESTING

With solution-based testing, one or more chemical reagents are mixed into a sample of water to determine the concentration

of the parameter in question. These kits typically have a higher resolution than test strips. There are a number of quality brands that provide acceptable results, especially for the most commonly tested parameters. However, check to make sure the range and

Test strips are the fastest and least expensive way to test your aquarium.
Solution-based test kits are available from various manufacturers.

resolution are acceptable for your requirements and the colors on the chart are easy for you to distinguish.

Reefkeepers often mix and match different brands for different parameters. For example, someone might use a Salifert alkalinity kit, a Nyos calcium kit, and an Aquaforest magnesium kit, while others tend to stick with one manufacturer. It's really a matter of personal preference. These test kits are relatively inexpensive and easy to use, while providing the precision, range, and resolution required by most reef hobbyists.

Tips: When using these tests, compare the test solution and color chart under bright, full-spectrum lighting. Comparing colors under bluish reef lights will yield inaccurate readings. Follow the manufacturer's instructions closely in regard to where the meniscus should fall on the test kit vial; many beginners find this challenging. Lastly, check the expiration date of the reagents if you get an unexpected result.

Cost: Salifert test kits for alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, and nitrate have enough reagents for 50 to 100 tests (each selling for around $20 or less).

DIGITAL COLORIMETERS

A digital colorimeter is an instrument used to determine color. So instead of visually comparing colorimetric test results against a color chart, a colorimeter does that work for you and displays the result in a digital format with far greater accuracy than your eye can provide. Hanna Checkers are probably the most well-known in this category, and their alkalinity, phosphate, and nitrate testers seem

to be very popular. Other manufacturers, such as Industrial Test Systems, offer a single device that can test multiple parameters.

Digital colorimeters typically have a higher initial cost due to the price of the meter itself, but if accuracy is your goal, these devices can be worth the investment.

Tips: Make sure there are no bubbles in the sample or smudges or scratches on the testing bottle, as these can interfere with the light sensor and affect the results. If the device requires calibration or confirmation of accuracy against a standard, make sure to do this regularly to ensure reliable test results.

Costs: Hanna Checkers sell for around $65 each, and reagents (alkalinity, phosphate, or nitrate) for 25 tests cost less than $20. The Industrial Test Systems Eco-Check eXact EZ Photometer, which is capable of testing seven reef parameters, sells for around $350.

AUTOMATED TESTING

The most recent advancement for in-home reef testing is automated testing. These breakthrough products greatly surpass simple reef automation like connecting a temperature or pH probe to a controller. These devices use reagents to test multiple parameters and are designed to completely replace manual testing. The first of its kind was invented by Jim Welsh, who introduced a working prototype of his alkalinity monitor at MACNA 2016. However, the reefkeeping industry now has a handful of different devices that are capable of automatically testing alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, and nitrate (the parameters that most reefkeepers tend to measure), among others.

The actual testing is chemically the same as traditional reagentbased testing. However, the collection of the water sample and the dispensing of reagents (using stepper motors) has been automated. Then a colorimeter interprets the results, which are relayed to a mobile app. This is where the user receives reports and alerts. These devices can take multiple tests throughout the day and provide

Digital devices provide accuracy and consistency.

insight into a tank's trends, like when major-element consumption is highest or how a stressful event might impact a reef tank's chemistry. Finally, it can be hard to discuss testing without including dosing, which is often why we are testing in the first place. Some of these products have blurred the line between the two by integrating automated dosing pumps.

One obvious downside to automated testing is the high entry price. But also, setup can be fairly involved. And as with any high-tech device (especially for the early adopters), there is the potential for some technical problems like connectivity issues, the need for software updates, and mechanical failures. There has been a lot of progress in working out the kinks, and with each new iteration or device launch, manufacturers continue to improve on previous models.

Tips: This is a big investment in a class of devices that are, in my opinion, still a developing technology. These products can differ greatly, so consider their warranties and read the reviews to give yourself a better understanding of what to expect.

I know that there are more devices out there, but again, I'm focusing more on the class of products than on the individual devices. The following examples should give you a better feel for what's available in the marketplace:

Reef Kinetics ReefBot Lab uses the Reef Kinetics Cloud Controller mobile app and is designed to work with various manufacturers' reagent test kits to measure alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, copper, iodine, pH, and more ($1,299).

Reef Kinetics ReefBot Lab

Neptune Systems Trident tests alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. It uses the Apex Fusion app and requires a separate A2 or A3 series Apex controller (with an available 1Link port). Dosing can be integrated by pairing with one or more Neptune DOS systems

with Automatic Dosing Control ($675, or $1,240 with an A3 Apex controller). A typical 2-month supply of reagents costs around $45.

Neptune Systems Trident NP (coming soon) is similar to the Trident but will only test nitrate and phosphate ($650).

HYDROS Maven (coming soon) is a stand-alone autotester that does not require a separate controller. It uses the HYDROS app and will test alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, and nitrate ($1,200). It can also be used to control dosing-pump schedules with the HYDROS system.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Stability of a reef's water chemistry should be the end goal when testing. And while reading visual cues in our tanks is an important component of reefkeeping, a quality test kit will always provide us with more accurate information about specific parameters. Once a problem has become visually apparent, it might be too late. Even if caught early on, corals can take months to fully recover from a parameter spike or deficit.

It's important to establish a baseline record of our water parameters. We can establish a baseline when our reef tank is doing well or with a newly mixed (but fully dissolved) batch of salt water. Knowing what has changed and how that change impacts the health of our reef inhabitants equips us with the information we need to succeed.

Now that you know the differences between the various in-home water testing options, pick your preferred testing method, whether it's a tried-and-true process or something new that's fully automated, and really start to understand your water chemistry. Your fish and corals will be glad you did. R

Neptune Systems Trident
HYDROS Maven

BLOOD, SWEAT, AND CORALS

JEREMY WHATLEY

Ibegan keeping freshwater fish at an early age. Then in 2003, my cousin told me that his friend was selling a reef tank. I had no idea what I was getting into, but I bought it anyway. That system consisted of a standard 55-gallon tank with a skimmer and a trickle filter filled with bio balls. I started to research and quickly began my journey into reefing. Soon after, I upgraded to a 105-gallon tank.

In 2016, I bought a new house and was tasked with moving all my livestock. To make a long story short, I lost all my corals in the move. I was heartbroken and told myself I was done with the hobby.

Fast-forward to early 2017, when I was approached by a co-worker who said he was getting out of the hobby. I decided to purchase his 90-gallon Aqueon display, which came with all the equipment I needed. Just like that, I was back!

I kept this tank running for a few years with limited success. The tank could only sustain LPS (large-polyp stony) and soft corals, and

I blamed this on the LED fixtures. When I'd finally had enough, I went back to what I knew. I bought a T5 fixture, and things finally began to thrive. During that time, I stumbled upon the Reef Moonshiner's method. That combination of light and element management resulted in an explosion in the growth and coloration of my corals. Naturally, I then needed a larger tank. In early 2021, I bought my very first brand-new tank, a Neptunian Cube M180. I transformed the office in my house into my fish room and started my latest reefing project.

This setup currently consists of two displays, the Neptunian Cube and the original 90-gallon Aqueon. They are both plumbed into the same sump, allowing me to maintain a single, shared mass of water. The idea behind having both tanks on one system is that it requires less dosing equipment, maintenance, and ICP testing. One thing I told myself with this setup was that I was not going to skimp with cheap or used equipment. I was going to get the best I could afford.

SPECIFICATIONS

Total System Volume: ~290 gallons

Return Pumps: (2) Jebao 10,000

Water Movement: (4) EcoTech Marine MP40

Heating: (2) Eheim Jager, Ink Bird controller

Skimmer: Reef Octopus 220 INT

Controller: Neptune Systems Apex

Testing: Neptune Systems Trident

UV: Lifegard Pro-Max, 55 watts

Dosing: Neptune Systems DOS

Neptunian Cube

PARAMETERS

Temperature: 77° F

Specific Gravity: 1.025–1.026

pH: 8.3–8.4

Nitrate: 10–15 ppm

Alkalinity: 8.0–8.5 dKH

Calcium: 450 ppm

Phosphate: 0.08–0.10 ppm

Magnesium: 1,350 ppm

Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium are all maintained in this system with BRS twopart dosing and an Avast Marine kalk stirrer that doses about 2 gallons of kalkwasser daily. This system does not require water changes due to the implementation of the Reef Moonshiner's method. Major and minor elements are all dosed by hand now. In the beginning stages of this tank, nutrient control was not an issue; in fact, I had to dose nitrate and phosphate. However, the system has recently started accumulating nutrients. This is managed with vodka dosing and GFO (granular ferric oxide), which keeps the nutrients where I want them.

Lighting for the tanks is supplied by ATI T5 fixtures: a 6×54-watt unit over the Aqueon

90-gallon Aqueon
Flower Anemones and LPS
Left side of Neptunian Cube

and a 6×80-watt unit over the Neptunian Cube. Each fixture is supplemented by two Orphek OR3 Blue Plus strip lights. I prefer the bluer look and run mostly ATI Blue Plus bulbs with one Coral Plus and one Purple Plus in each T5 fixture.

FISH

• (2) Midas Blenny (one in each tank)

• (2) Melanurus Wrasse (one in each tank)

• (2) Firefish

• Blue Hippo Tang

• Mimic Tang

• Naso Tang

• Foxface Rabbitfish

• Coral Beauty Angelfish

• Purple Pseudochromis

• Mocha Clownfish

CORALS

• Acropora spp.

• Favia spp.

• Montipora spp.

• Lobophyllia spp.

• Scolymia spp.

• Fimbriaphyllia spp.

• Micromussa spp.

• mushrooms

• zoanthids

During my time in the hobby, I have seen reefkeeping evolve and change so much for the better. I believe I will be a reefer for life. I find I'm eager to be more involved over time and hope to give something back to this hobby that means so much to me. R

90-gallon Aqueon

HelloReef Clownfish & Anemone Aquarium Kit

It's been a while since I've played around with any AIO (all-in-one) systems, and I'm pleased to say this is the first one of these types of tanks that I can comfortably recommend for beginners. Let me explain why this is a tragedy on a few fronts. The history of previous AIO systems is littered with subpar equipment, pie-in-thesky promises of what can be achieved, and warranties and customer support that are practically nonexistent. Saddest of all, those systems are deliberately marketed to new hobbyists who don't have the experience to compensate for equipment deficiencies, let alone recognize that any exist. Beginners need the most robust and forgiving gear available, realistic expectations, and accurate info (and lots of it!) to guide them through their entry into what is admittedly a very complicated and technical hobby, one that can be even more difficult to navigate with a small tank.

EQUIPMENT

This system is around 15 gallons in total volume, with the exterior dimensions forming a 15-inch cube. The overall look of the tank, combined with its extremely low-profile light, is very modern. The system is plumbed similar to other AIO products. The water overflows through slits in the back of the display, then down through a filter sock into the first chamber. The second chamber is designed to hold the heater and filter materials and won't run dry as a result of regular evaporation. The third chamber's water level will drop from regular evaporation, and this is where the return pump is located. Water is returned to the display through an articulated broad nozzle that allows flow to be directed as desired. This may all seem like standard fare, but a closer look reveals something important: this product was designed by a hobbyist for hobbyists.

This kit, like many before it, promises to include everything you need for the setup right up to the point of the first introduction of live animals. But, unlike many previous AIO products, it really does. What surprised and delighted me was the mix of quality products from top manufacturers. Yes, it comes with a light, but not a generic underpowered light. It's a programmable Aquaillumination Blade LED strip light that should easily provide the PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) needed to support a Bubble-tip Anemone. The return pump is a Sicce Micra Plus, which is listed at a flow rate of 158 gallons per hour. The included internal flow pump is a Sicce Voyager Nano Stream 1000, which is listed at a flow rate of 270 gallons per hour. But it doesn't stop there. The emphasis on quality carries through to the choices to provide Aquaforest salt, CaribSea live sand and LifeRock, an Eheim heater, a refractometer (and calibration fluid) instead of a cheaper hydrometer, and even extends to the inclusion of Two Little Fishies' underwater epoxy putty, Dr. Tim's live nitrifying bacteria, and a Flipper algae scraper. Only a hobbyist would have included these time-tested parts in a kit aimed at beginners, and I think that's worth applauding. Another clear sign of the thought that went into this product is the attention to details, which beginners won't even appreciate unless they compare this kit to a lesser product. Here are a few examples: a backup filter sponge is provided, the carbon and media bags are zippered (not permanently sealed), and the divider between the display area and the filter chambers is recessed so that if you use a cover (not included), it can sit flat on the tank while the flow pump cord runs beneath it but over the recessed divider. These are the kind of details that make a hobbyist's life easier.

INFO, INFO, AND FUN

Let's be honest, this hobby requires a lot of learning, and that's especially true at the beginner level. While the tank is very nice and uses excellent parts, HelloReef has really outdone itself by creating a large website with a whole slew of online videos, challenges, and rewards to guide a beginner from unboxing, all the way through to a finished mini reef. I spent many hours watching the videos and didn't find any misinformation. They were extremely detailed yet simple to understand. There is a large set of basic videos, and there are also videos that are deeper dives into the many topics. Watching videos and completing challenges earn you points and reveal additional vids and challenges. I also recognize that the challenge and point-reward system make it all more engaging and fun and minimizes the daunting effect of feeling like you bit off more than you could chew as a new hobbyist. This approach will make the learning curve more interactive for younger hobbyists, who should have no problem mastering the basics of the hobby by following this system.

ADDITIONAL DETAILS

This system is available through local aquarium stores, and at the end of the setup and cycling process, HelloReef provides you with a $20 Visa card to take to your local aquarium store and spend on critters, and I appreciate this support of the local retail community. HelloReef also donates two percent of net proceeds toward coral reef preservation and restoration and strongly encourages the stocking of captive-bred livestock. In conclusion, it's great to finally see a product that I believe can provide the quality equipment and information desperately needed by beginners in our hobby. Well done, HelloReef! R

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