Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q4 2023 by Reef Hobbyist Magazine

FOURTH QUARTER 2023 I VOLUME 17

BACTERIA-POWERED REEF

DEEPWATER DONUTS NPS PARADISE

FEATURES 6

FINGERNAIL SNAILS: UNSUNG C.U.C. HEROES Krista Bedell has a degree in Environmental Science and is the owner of K&P Aquaculture. Stomatella snails may be the perfect cleanup crew animals. Here you can learn all about the care and benefits of these versatile helpers.

10 ON THE COVER BACTERIA- POWERED REEF

Sonny Harajly is a 25+ year reefer, a carbon dosing pioneer, and founder of Pro Corals. This reefing veteran has found that focusing on bacterial regulation and health is the key to easily maintaining a stunning reef. Learn his secrets in this tank writeup.

Acanthophyllia deshayesiana: THE DEEPWATER DONUT Vincent Chalias has been coral farming in Indonesia for 25 years. A. deshayesiana is highly sought after and commands some of the highest prices in the hobby. Find out why many consider it the holy grail of LPS.

NPS PARADISE Jiageng Li is a dedicated reefer with a flair for creating spectacular reefs. If you consider Acropora-dominated reefs to be the pinnacle of our hobby, this non-photosynthetic marvel might change your mind.

GET YOUR LIGHTING RIGHT: AN LED SHOPPING PRIMER Jim Adelberg is the executive editor of RHM. Shopping for LED reef lights can seem overwhelming. This article will help you determine which features are critical to your success and introduce some of the latest fixtures.

SALTY SHIBA REEF Jae Lee is a Texan who is stumbling his way through his reef hobby while trying to justify coral purchases to his spouse. An emphasis on basic reef husbandry has always been a recipe for success, and this beautiful reef validates this time-honored approach.

MIKE’S MIGHTY NANO Michael Raymond Harman is an American veteran finding peace in underwater marine life. Nano reefs can be very challenging, but after several setbacks, this small tank has been transformed into a display that packs a big punch.

ANTHIAS FOR SMALLER AQUARIUMS Art Parola is a decades-long hobbyist working on legislative issues related to pets and wildlife. Think your tank is too small for anthias? Learn about a few species suitable for small and even nano tanks.

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ANNOUNCEMENTS

• Images for Victory Reef in Q3 2023 are credited to Amanda Kay Myer. • Our online magazine now features videos within articles and product commercials from our advertisers. Experience the new issue on our website! • Care to share your reefing, fragging, breeding, or husbandry success with the world? Contact us through our website with your article ideas.

SPONSORED EVENTS • Reef-A-Palooza (Dallas) - October 7–8, Dallas, TX – www.reefapaloozashow.net • Fargo Exotic Pet Expo - October 28, West Fargo, ND – www.fargoexoticpetexpo.com • Happy Reefing Coral Expo (Houston) - November 11, Houston, TX – www.happyreefing.com • Happy Reefing Coral Expo (Round Rock) - December 2, Round Rock, TX – www.happyreefing.com • Reef-A-Palooza (Orlando) - April 20–21 (2024), Orlando, FL – www.reefapaloozashow.net

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FINGERNAIL SNAILS: UNSUNG C.U.C. HEROES KRISTA BEDELL

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S. auricula

any will argue about what the best cleanup crew critter in their tank is. For us, it's the tiny Stomatella snails, also known as fingernail snails. These speedy little scavengers are nocturnal and only grow to about an inch in size. While they live just 2 to 3 years, they reproduce in captivity quite easily, so there should be no need to spend money on replacements.

These cute creatures can be found zipping through the tank to scour rocks and glass, probing every crevice to clean up detritus, microalgae, and other waste. They have even been observed feeding on cyanobacteria! With so many benefits, some might think there's a catch, but there isn't. These snails are completely reef safe and pose no threat to their tankmates. There are roughly 20 identified species in the Stomatella genus, and they come in many colors, ranging from black, brown, white, and gray to orange, yellow, pink, and red. The two most common species in our systems are S. auricula and S. impertusa. If I had to choose a favorite, it would be S. impertusa for its beautiful pink shell. While the shell color can be hard to see under blue light, it is quite stunning under natural sunlight or white light. The shells of Stomatella are very small and flat, giving them the nickname "fingernail snails." Because of this, they are often mistaken for slugs or limpets, but they have some easily distinguishable features upon closer look. Stomatella have two eyes with a neck lobe behind each eye. These neck lobes pass water in and out, allowing the snails to filter feed as well as actively scavenge the tank. They also have a cool feature where their right kidney has adapted to dispose of waste, while the left kidney is responsible for maintaining fluid concentrations in the body and blood. Stomatella belong to the Trochidae family, commonly known as top shells, which includes many of the more conventional-looking marine snails. And if they weren't already cool enough, they also have a special adaptation that allows them to drop their tail! The discarded tail will wriggle and create a distraction when a Stomatella snail is under attack, allowing the snail Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Two S. impertusa with missing tails

to make a getaway. These snails can be an enticing snack for animals like wrasses, peppermint and cleaner shrimp, hawkfish, hogfish, puffers, triggers, dottybacks, and damsels. An ideal tank for these snails should be free from any aggressive fish or inverts. Stomatella are hermaphroditic, meaning they have both male and female organs, though a single snail cannot breed on its own. Moonlight seems to influence their reproductive cycle. These snails are generally known to reproduce by broadcast

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Tail dropped by a Stomatella snail during its getaway

spawning, but some have been observed laying an egg trail near the surface. It's not clear whether certain species or individuals are fixed in their reproductive strategies or all Stomatella can utilize both methods. Our experience has been that they broadcast spawn in high-flow areas near the surface of the water. It takes roughly 30 days for a baby snail to develop its shell, and during this time they are very vulnerable to fish, inverts, corals, and other filter feeders. Like trees, they produce rings on their shells as they grow, and they have the ability to survive without food for several months. Stomatella also have

S. nigra

the incredible ability to adapt to temperature swings between 65 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. We have noticed their dislike for major changes in salinity and try to stay within the specificgravity range of 1.024 to 1.026 (32–35 ppt salinity). They really thrive in our macroalgae-tank environments, where they don't seem to bother the beneficial macroalgae, only the nuisance microalgae. Overall, it's hard not to love these adorable little snails and admire them for all the cool benefits they provide. They are a must-have for us at our facility, and their populations remain balanced within the tank ecosystems. The more food available, the more snails will begin appearing. We have them growing and reproducing in several systems with varying nutrient levels. Whether you run high- or low-nutrient tanks, the most important considerations are consistent water parameters and the exclusion of potential predators. Add at least four or five Stomatella to ensure successful reproduction. After a few months, take a flashlight and check out your tank at night. You will be very impressed with the results! R S. planulata

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Bacteria-Powered Reef

SONNY HARAJLY

was fortunate enough to start my first aquarium at the age of 6 and have been learning and having a great time in the hobby ever since. At the urging of my high school science teacher, I set up my first reef at age 17. Since then, I have focused on ways to improve my system and the hobby overall. Over the last 25 years, I have experimented with many reefkeeping approaches and believe I now have a philosophy that works for me. During that time, I had a number of aquariums, each different in

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style and methodology. At one point, I even ran a coral propagation business called Pro Corals. The most popular coral the company released, and one that is still a fan favorite, is the PC Rainbow. There were many ups and downs in my pursuit of the hobby, and I tested and used just about every piece of equipment under the sun. From biopellets and kalkwasser to algae reactors, I tried them all. Through that experience, I came to the realizations that simplicity is key and that nature knows best.

The current system was set up in May of 2022. It was an upgrade from a much smaller system, with livestock, rock, and water transferred over. I wanted an all-in-one solution, so I purchased a Waterbox 6025 peninsula aquarium. I like the aesthetics of having the overflow box off to the side and out of sight. This opens up more possibilities for aquascaping and creates more natural-looking videos and images. SPECIFICATIONS Display: Waterbox 6025 Dimensions: 60.5" × 26" × 24" Total System Volume: 195 gallons Sump Volume: 45 gallons Lighting: (2) EcoTech Radion XR30 and (2) XR15 G5 PRO Water Movement: (2) EcoTech MP40QD, Tunze Stream 3 Return Pump: EcoTech Vectra L2 Skimmer: Ultra Reef Akula UKS-200 Mechanical Filtration: (4) filter socks Chemical Filtration: activated carbon Biological Filtration: KZ ZEOvit bacteria reactor Top-off: Tunze Osmolator 3155 Kalkwasser: Tunze Calcium Dispenser The system is dominated by SPS (small-polyp stony) corals and scaped to allow for maximum water flow while still maintaining the overall aesthetics. I like to incorporate negative space into the design of my reefs, and I attempt to adhere to the golden ratio as much as possible. I used real live rock from the Atlantic Ocean Reef Hobbyist Magazine

because there is just no substitute for live rock. Dry rock is great, but I wouldn't use it without the inclusion of at least a few pounds of live rock. In my opinion, many of the issues we are seeing these days in modern systems are due to the use of sterile rock and the lack of diversity or exclusion of required microfauna and bacteria. DOSING This system is bacteria powered and carbon dosed daily. The bacteria do a great job maintaining a clean aquarium while at the same time helping to feed my corals. My systems have been carbon dosed for over 20 years, but the key difference with this system is the inclusion of a ZEOvit reactor. The reactor houses zeolite, which absorbs ammonium from the system and helps bacteria to propagate. Once during the day and once at night (when the corals have their feeding tentacles extended), the reactor is agitated to release a storm of bacteria. As carbon is dosed, bacteria reproduce and uptake nitrate and phosphate. The bacteria are then consumed by the corals. Any nutrients left over are removed by the protein skimmer. It's a beautiful way to maintain a healthy reef and one that is perfectly in line with nature. I am often amazed that more reefers are not following this method. To supplement major elements, I use Tropic Marin All-For-Reef and kalkwasser. I have always used kalkwasser, but the addition of All-For-Reef has been great. It works much better than a calcium reactor or standard two-part dosing solution and has the added benefit of supplying not only the major elements but the minor ones as well. This allows me to reduce the frequency of water changes, which are done every 6 weeks at 25 percent total system volume. Best of all, I don't have to track calcium or magnesium. I simply monitor alkalinity, and if it falls below the desired level, I increase my dosage of All-For-Reef. DOSING SCHEDULE Tropic Marin NP Bacto Balance: 3 mL daily Tropic Marin All-For-Reef: 100 mL daily KZ Zeovit Bacteria: 7 drops, twice per week KZ Zeofood: 7 drops, twice per week Kalkwasser: added via top-off water WATER PARAMETERS Temperature: 78–80° F pH: 8.2–8.4 Salinity: 36 ppt Nitrate: not measured Phosphate: not measured Alkalinity: 8.0 dKH Calcium: not measured CORAL SNOW AND MAINTENANCE Maintenance has always been top of mind for me, and I take great care to have a thorough and consistent process. The glass is cleaned daily, and each Saturday I empty the skimmer collection cup, change the filter socks, rake the sand, and top off the kalkwasser reservoir. Immediately after raking the sand and blowing off the rocks, I dose a DIY solution of coral snow. The coral snow is a combination of

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Male Spotbreast Angelfish

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calcium carbonate and bacteria. This is a flocculant and helps to bind waste and organics for export via the skimmer and filter socks. Within hours after using the snow, the aquarium is sparkling clear, far clearer than what can be achieved with standard filtration methods. The coral snow has the added benefit of limiting the growth of undesirable algae and slime, such as cyano. By combining the coral snow with bacteria, the bacteria are distributed throughout the water and attach to every surface of the aquarium, helping to outcompete the cyano for real estate. LIVESTOCK The fish were selected based on past experience. I have always liked tangs, chromis, and anthias, so they were a must for this system. The tangs do a good job keeping the rockscape free of algae, and the combination of chromis and anthias are a joy to watch as they school together. The great advantage of combining these fish is that the chromis will not pick on each other since the anthias keep them in check. One thing that is new with this system is that, for the first time, I included angelfishes of the Genicanthus genus. These fish are reef safe and make a lovely addition to any reef system. The fish are fed twice daily with a combination of pellet (Spectrum) and flake foods (Ocean Nutrition Formula One). I recently started to include some frozen Mysis shrimp for a new Copperband Butterflyfish. If not for him, I would be feeding strictly dry food.

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

FISH • (11) Green Chromis • (7) Lyretail Anthias • (2) ORA Premium Snowflake Clownfish • (2) Spotbreast Angelfish (male/female) • ORA Splendid Dottyback • Lamarck's Angelfish • Purple Tang • Pacific Blue Tang • Foxface Rabbitfish • Copperband Butterflyfish The corals I keep are numerous, and there are too many to list. They mainly consist of zoanthids and Acropora, with a focus on the old-school varieties like Green Slimer, Red Planet, and Pearlberry. FINAL THOUGHTS Through my experience, I have found that nature knows best. Set up the aquarium correctly from the start, adhere to strict maintenance practices, and allow nature to do its thing. It's as simple as that. The less I do in the system, the better the outcome. For those interested in my lighting schedule, flow, and coral snow mix, you can find more information at www.ReefSite.com or @ReefSite on Instagram. Lyretail Anthias

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Happy Reefing! R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Acanthophyllia deshayesiana: The Deepwater Donut VINCENT CHALIAS

canthophyllia deshayesiana stands out as one of the ultimate LPS (large-polyp stony) collector corals. This species is unique not only for its impressive colors and patterns but also its solitary and fleshy polyp structure. Unlike the corals found in traditional coral reef environments, A. deshayesiana thrives in deeper sandy areas, where collection is riskier and more complicated. Many reef hobbyists consider A. deshayesiana to be the holy grail of LPS, and it commands a high price. A. deshayesiana is a member of the Lobophylliidae family. As an adult, it lives unattached to the reef and can reach 10 to 12 inches in diameter when fully open. Its skeleton, characterized by a slightly conical shape, can reach 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 inches in height. This shape provides stability atop sandy substrates and is a reminder of its juvenile phase when it grows attached to the reef. The point of the conical skeleton tends to

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erode away in older specimens, such as those often found in the hobby, which can be a few decades old. The coral's characteristic tissue is thick and slightly opaque, very similar to corals of the genus Lobophyllia. However, the tissue is slightly thinner and more transparent above the primary septa, which can reach 0.6 inches in height and 0.4 to 0.8 inches in width. This coral's distribution includes the Coral Triangle between the Philippines, Malaysia, and Indonesia, as well as the northern Great Barrier Reef and the Coral Sea. HABITAT A. deshayesiana inhabits deep areas with loose substrate adjacent to, below, or between reefs. Typically at depths of 80 feet and deeper, in areas of rich and turbid waters, these habitats are known to provide a haven for a range of marine life, including plants of the

This psychedelic A. deshayesiana exemplifies the visual appeal of these corals.

Halimeda genus. Also found here are branching corals such as Anacropora and Cyphastrea species. Other solitary, free-living corals such as Trachyphyllia geoffroyi, Catalaphyllia jardinei (deep-living solitary form), and Goniopora species favor these areas as well. These sand and rubble beds are often devoid of much life except where the water flow deposits food. It is in these unique habitats that we find A. deshayesiana, sometimes in great abundance in a relatively small area. Locating these corals requires experience in reading the seabed and currents. COLOR PALETTE AND RARITY Vivid hues of green, red, orange, gold, and blue adorn A. deshayesiana in a myriad of combinations and intricate patterns. These colors generally form concentric rings that give rise to its common name of "donut coral." Rays of color sometimes project outward from the center, resembling beams of light radiating from the coral's mouth. When both rings and rays of color are present at the same time, a patchwork of mixed and superimposed colors virtually transforms these specimens into living impressionist paintings. The more colors the coral has, the rarer and therefore more expensive it is. There are fanatical collectors of this species, especially in Asia, and an aquarium filled with the rarest and most unique specimens can exceed the price of an exotic sports car. No two polyps have identical coloration, and to find an exceptional piece, you often must comb through numerous less attractive specimens. A. deshayesiana resides within a trio of closely related species, including Cynarina lacrymalis and Indophyllia macassarensis. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

characteristics, not the flesh of the living animals. Even though their skeletons are very similar, the live animals are quite different. Unfortunately, scientists have made very few observations of these corals in their natural environment. Their habitat is truly unusual and not regularly dived, and it is likely only genetic analysis will finally yield a definitive understanding of the evolutionary relationship between the three species. Cynarina lacrymalis

C. lacrymalis forms bubbles and is typically one or two colors.

Unlike C. lacrymalis or I. macassarensis, A. deshayesiana does not form bubbles. It also spreads out more horizontally in order to absorb as much light as possible in its deep habitat. Scientific literature often considers the genera Cynarina, Acanthophyllia, and Indophyllia as synonyms, but these claims are based on skeletal A. deshayesiana spreads out horizontally and does not form bubbles.

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C. lacrymalis lives attached to rocks, usually below 100 feet deep. It has paliform lobes, unlike A. deshayesiana and I. macassarensis. On the Cynarina pictured to the left, there is a well-formed skeletal crown around the mouth. The other distinction from A. deshayesiana is that the septa of C. lacrymalis, like I. macassarensis, are much thicker and sport robust and rounded teeth. At the tissue level, the flesh of C. lacrymalis is much thinner and more homogeneous than the other two. Plus, this species forms bubbles that can sometimes make it look like Plerogyra sinuosa. The colors are more uniform than the other species as well. C. lacrymalis is often found in plain brown, green, or red and, on very rare occasions, with combinations like red with a green mouth but never with any circular or intricate patterns.

I. macassarensis forms slight bubbles and also spreads out horizontally.

Indophyllia macassarensis I. macassarensis appears to be an intermediate species between A. deshayesiana and C. lacrymalis and is the rarest of the three. Morphologically, it is a fusion of the other two, with a mantle forming slight bubbles but also extending horizontally. Its thick-toothed septa can be seen through the mantle. The coloring is also much more interesting than C. lacrymalis, without being as extraordinary as A. deshayesiana. This species has no plain coloration and always exhibits combinations of brown, green, yellow, red, pink, and even blue. Though the patterns can sometimes be circular, they're always less spectacular than those of its Acanthophyllia cousin. Any coral resembling C. lacrymalis but having coloration with at least bicolor radiations is often an I. macassarensis.

very good candidates for fragging either, though it has been successfully done despite the high risk. Fragging should only be attempted on specimens in very good health, with perfectly clean equipment, and with optimal tank conditions. Colonies with multiple polyps are very rare but can occasionally be found. Whether these are the result of multiple larvae settling on the same spot or small damaged

PROPAGATION It is obvious that these species focus their reproductive energy on sexual reproduction. They are probably brooders, but their sexual reproduction in captivity has never been documented. Deepwater donut corals are not

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Multipolyped colonies are an anomaly. Pictured here are two beautifully colored polyps of C. lacrymalis.

A fluorescent green, yellow, and blue A. deshayesiana

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Lines of contrasting color radiate from the center of this A. deshayesiana.

polyps that end up splitting into several heads is still unknown. But these multiheaded colonies command very high prices. It is likely that when wild collection stops, many people will become interested in the sexual propagation of these species. HUSBANDRY When introducing A. deshayesiana to a new display, it should be placed on the substrate in an area with very low light. It can even be tucked beneath a fully encrusted shelf in an SPS tank. Since light is subdued in its natural habitat, a PAR level of 30 to 60 suits this coral perfectly. Reflected illumination is often sufficient in brightly lit tanks. Avoid all gobies that sift the sandbed and could bury the coral. Also avoid stocking angelfish that might nibble on its flesh. It only takes a little bit of stress for A. deshayesiana to begin to wither and die. The tentacles of A. deshayesiana come out at night as they do for most hard corals. This species is highly dependent on nutrient inputs for survival, growth, and reproduction. The metabolism of A. deshayesiana is very slow, and any symptoms of ill health take a long time to manifest. For this reason, when something does go wrong, it is often already too late by the time we notice any signs of trouble. It is critical to anticipate and prevent any rapid or extreme changes in physical or chemical parameters. It's a bit like steering an ocean liner; there's a lot of inertia. A. deshayesiana must be fed at least two to three times per week with small quantities of high-protein, quality foods. Large servings of food can result in incomplete digestion and increases the risk of a gut infection. This coral is capable of ingesting large prey, but this should be avoided in order to facilitate complete digestion, especially in the first few months in captivity. In the beginning, feed the coral at night. This will prevent fish from stealing its food and corresponds most closely to its feeding schedule in nature. Then, you can slowly shift to a more convenient feeding time. Try to feed on a strict schedule to encourage a consistent response. Once the coral gets used to opening at a certain time, it will be very easy to feed it. Little by little, it will open during fish feeding, and eventually, all you'll have to do is give it a little food when you feed the fish. These corals are precious and a bit like a nice watch. They should be passed down through generations, as they can live long lives if we take care of them properly. I hope that I've piqued your interest in these beautiful animals. Perhaps you're now ready to begin the search for your own holy grail. R Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Image by Don McCulley

NPS PARADISE

JIAGENG LI

've been in the hobby for around 8 years but only recently became obsessed with NPS (non-photosynthetic) corals. In 2016, I started my first saltwater aquarium, which was a 183-gallon fish-only tank. In 2021, I was amazed to see an orange gorgonian in my friend's studio. I set up a 30-gallon tank to test my ability to keep NPS corals. As I bought more and more of these corals, the tank became crowded, so I upgraded to a 105-gallon tank. Once that tank got filled up, I put all my NPS corals into this 155-gallon system. It took me almost a year to collect all the NPS corals you see here. Every day, I search the lists from the stores and divers for something new. It's been a really interesting experience.

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SPECIFICATIONS Display: 39" × 32" × 25", 130 gallons Sump: 35" × 15" × 15", 25 gallons Lighting: Zetlight Q6-90 Protein Skimmer: AE-CL with Hagen PT8208 pump Return Pump: 5,000 L/h Water Movement: Maxspect XF330 Heating: JBL heater Cooling: TECO TK1000 chiller Additional Equipment: algae turf scrubber

METHODOLOGY My method for maintaining this tank is quite simple. I focus on water quality, flow, and feeding. My algae turf scrubber runs for 16 hours a day, and my goal is to keep phosphate below 0.6 ppm. I rely on periodic water changes and the protein skimmer to handle the buildup of other organics. I manually dose to maintain alkalinity but haven't found a need for any other dosing. My return pump provides a turnover of eight times per hour, and the Maxspect XF330 provides plenty of in-tank flow. WATER PARAMETERS Temperature: 68–75° F Specific Gravity: 1.022–1.024 pH: 7.6–7.8 Nitrate: 25–50 ppm Phosphate: 0.3–0.5 ppm Alkalinity: 7–8 dKH FISH • (10) Banggai Cardinalfish • (2) Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse • (2) Squarespot Anthias

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasses

• Spotbreast Angelfish • Ocellate Butterflyfish CORALS • various species of NPS corals OTHER INVERTEBRATES • (20) Gold Ring Cowrie • cleaner shrimp FEEDING The corals are fed regularly with newly hatched brine shrimp and occasionally with rotifers. I feed 15 grams of baby brine shrimp twice weekly. These are double washed, and I'm careful not to allow any of the hatch water into the system. The fish are fed three cubes of Hikari frozen Mysis shrimp every other day. Since NPS corals don't require light for growth, the lighting is on for only 2 hours a day for my viewing pleasure. I'd like to take this opportunity to express my gratitude to Siro3, Dr. Li, and Dr. Cheung. Thanks to their support, I was able to set up this NPS coral tank. R

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World Wide Corals

GET YOUR LIGHTING RIGHT: AN LED SHOPPING PRIMER JIM ADELBERG INTRODUCTION In just the few short decades since its introduction, LED lighting has become the standard in the reefkeeping hobby. There are good reasons for this too. LEDs are more efficient than older technologies like metal halide or fluorescent lighting. This results in less wattage wasted producing unwanted heat. The old expenses of regular bulb replacement and the headache of toxic-bulb disposal have also disappeared, and quality light fixtures from reputable manufacturers can be expected to last many years. In addition to these benefits, many LED fixture manufacturers provide software that can finetune the LED output to a level that previous generations of lighting technology never could attain. And finally, there are full-spectrum and supplemental LED solutions available to fit any budget, any form factor, and virtually any aesthetic. CAVEAT EMPTOR Buying equipment is always exciting, and the reef hobby is very equipment and technology driven. If you're somewhat new to the reef LED marketplace, I would like to share a few bits of advice, some general and some specific to LED light fixtures. First, I would say that planning for future growth is both wise and thrifty. Plan on eventually having a larger tank, plan on your tank needing more light over time, plan on your hobby changing and growing, and choose equipment that will grow and change with you. Specifically

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as regards LED lighting fixtures, I'd urge you to consider purchasing a modular and expandable system or buying a larger and more powerful fixture than you need right now. There's nothing wrong with underdriving LEDs, and in fact they'll last longer when powered that way. Consider what level of automation you want and which automated features you'd prefer. Be aware that most brands of smart LED fixtures don't talk to each other and that not every light is compatible with every controller. If you intend to have multiple controlled or integrated systems, do your research and choose your brands now with an eye toward future integration. Finally, buy from manufacturers with a proven reputation. Reputable fixture manufacturers will source quality diodes and drivers and match those diodes and drivers to produce specifications that can generally be relied upon as stated. And if you do have a problem with your fixture, a quality manufacturer will provide responsive customer support and a warranty. TOO MANY CHOICES! Because of the versatility of LEDs, there are a staggering number of fixtures available. This can seem daunting, but it really just means that some extra thought should go into choosing this equipment. There is no one best fixture for every use case, but with a little planning, you'll soon see that each use case is best served by only a handful of available options. To prepare for this article, we reached out to our advertisers (the companies who help make RHM free)

to see what LED reef lighting fixtures they had available to send us so we could provide a brief introductory overview of the market at this time and some representative fixtures to consider. This isn't a complete list of all available fixtures by any means but just a sampling

of what's available from some of the top manufacturers. I will list them in order of their MSRPs because budgeting is important, and I will try to give you a sense of what it's like to use each light (and its software, when available).

NEPTUNE SYSTEMS SKY First up is the Neptune Systems SKY, which retails for $869.95. This is a very interesting product. First, it's a high-quality build using a nice Meanwell driver and 104 LEDs in a 200-watt fixture. The light provides coverage for a recommended 24" by 30" area when Acroporaintensity lighting is needed. The driver is connected to the fixture with a generously long cable, and the fixture itself is quite light, which makes mounting it using Neptune's available mounting kit very easy. Aesthetically, this light is a simple flat black box that doesn't draw much attention to itself, but its performance is where it really shines. There are two very important selling points for this light: it is Apex compatible, and it eliminates the usual spotlighting effect produced by many LED fixtures. If you're planning on an integrated control system in the future or you already own an Apex controller, this compatibility could be key. And if you dislike the disco ball lighting effect that most LED fixtures create, then you'll appreciate the thought that went into creating a light that really does a good job of mimicking the soft glow and coverage from T5 fixtures of old. This light can be used in standalone modes (with the buttons on the fixture only), with an Apex controller, or through any smartphone with the download of the Apex Fusion app. I found the software to be very easy to use, and for those who don't want to tinker too much, there are a bunch of useful templates built into the software to get you up and running fast.

ORPHEK OR3 LED BARS Next is the OR line of LED lighting from Orphek. The OR3 60 (25" and 30W) is $160.00 per bar. The OR3 90 (36.8" and 40W) is $180.00 per bar. The OR3 120 (48.6" and 60W) is $200.00 per bar, and the OR3 150 (60.4" and 75W) is $325.00 per bar. The OR3 LED bars are fully modular and allow for a large amount of customization. There are seven different colorrendering bars to choose from, and their spectral (and PAR) output maps can be found on the Orphek website. Orphek also makes a bracket system that can hold up to seven bars. This modular and upgradeable approach allows hobbyists to invest modestly at first and add on in the future. One design choice that I think is worth noting is that although Orphek chose 5-watt dual LEDs for the bars, they are running them at half wattage. This means the longevity of these fixtures should be outstanding. The other choice is purely aesthetic and appeals to me but may not be everyone's cup of tea: these are very industrial-looking lights. Also notable is the form factor (bars), which gives a nice even coverage over the entire display. To use this light, you must have the Orphek Icon app installed on your smart phone or computer, and my experience with this app was that it was a bit clunky to quickly program and try different lighting schemes, but with a little work, great results are possible.

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ECOTECH MARINE RADION XR15 G6 PRO The EcoTech Radion XR15 G6 Pro retails for $499.99. It uses 50 LEDs and an advanced lens system that allows its 95 watts to create a huge spread from a relatively small enclosure. In fact, EcoTech recommends this 7" by 7" fixture for tanks up to 30" square and 30" deep. The Radion lineup has acquired a well-earned reputation for bringing out the pop in coral coloration, and now they've gone even further into the deep-blue and UV spectra with this G6 model. This is certainly a light that delivers a lot of spread and PAR from a tiny footprint, and if that's important to you, this may be your best choice. The EcoTech Mobius software is easy to use and is compatible with the Fusion app, which means that your Radion will slot nicely into an Apex-driven fish room.

AQUAILLUMINATION PRIME 32 HD The AI Prime 32 HD retails for $429.99 and uses 90 watts in a very small form factor to produce a light that punches deep without too much extra spread. AI has been producing reef LED lighting for a long time and

MAXSPECT JUMP L-165 The Maxspect Jump L-165 65-watt fixture retails for $279.99 and uses 24 multi-LEDs arrayed in six clusters or mini-pucks to create a nice spread rated for 24" by 24" coverage. The build quality is good, with a full metal body and plastic on the bottom third of the fixture. The Jump is fully controllable through the Syna-G cloud app, which has some interesting features like sharing templates with friends (who are also on the app) and several preset templates. Surprisingly, a stand for mounting the light on the rim of a tank (up to 1" thickness) is included, and if this stand is useful for your application, it certainly adds to the value. Based on the PAR maps on their website, I would recommend this light mostly for LPS and softies, with maybe some SPS in the hotspot, but it's hard to grow acros under 65 watts of light, regardless of the fixture.

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has built a strong reputation and community around their products. This fixture is slightly smaller than the Radion XR15 Pro and is recommended for 24" by 24" tanks to depths of 24". AI has added moonlight to this new generation of lights and retained the ability to overdrive LED color channels through the AI software. One neat feature of the AI website is that it allows you to download templates (spectrum and schedule) from successful reefers highlighted on the site. The AI software also communicates with Apex controllers and so offers good integration options.

FLUVAL SEA MARINE (46W) The Fluval Sea Marine comes in four sizes, each with varying wattages of light. We tested the 46-watt light, which retails for $264.99 and is designed for tanks from 36" to 48" long. Overall, the design of this strip light is very visually appealing in a minimalist way. The Sea Marine is designed to rest on the edges of the tank with extendable legs that accommodate a variety of tanks. This strip light contains 252 LEDs, which

are spaced to provide lots of spread over that large span. The fixture also sports Bluetooth connectivity, and if you download their app, you get access to the 5-channel color mixing, scheduling, and a few preset templates. I would specifically recommend this light for situations where very high PAR is not needed but good spread and coverage are required, like a softie reef.

REEF BRITE LUMI LITE PRO MARINE 24 50/50 The Reef Brite Lumi Lite Pro Marine 24 50/50 retails for $130.13 and sports 96 LEDs over its 24" length. This light has a few features that are worth mentioning. First, it provides a number of mounting options and comes with a swivel mount attached, as well as standoff legs that make it easy to mount the fixture in a whole slew of ways. It's quite slim and will fit into tight cabinets with ease. It's also very bright but doesn't have a lot of spread. Additionally, it has separate inline dimmers for the blue and white channels, which allow

for some customization without the need for a separate app. Reef Brite does have a control app that can be purchased separately. Reef Brite is a company that seems to value modularity, and it sells separate brackets that can hold up to five of these strips. Actinic-only and white strips are also available, so the potential for mixing different colors as one upgrades and expands is appealing. As a stand-alone light, I believe LPS would fare well within the bright area of this fixture's spread.

CONCLUSION I hope this article will give you a place to start in researching your next light system. Not all features of any of these lights were listed, and I encourage you to visit the individual manufacturers' websites for the full details on any light you're considering. Lastly, I'd like to

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thank our advertisers for working with us to produce this article and for their continued support in making Reef Hobbyist Magazine free to the hobbyist. R

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SALT Y SHIBA REEF JAE LEE

began my aquarium hobby when I was just 10 years old. Some of my family members have asthma, so we couldn't keep any animals with hair or fur. My mother wanted to encourage us to develop a sense of responsibility for animals, which led her to get a freshwater tank for the family. Each family member took care of their own species of fish. Over time, we successfully bred many freshwater fish, eventually accumulating 10 tanks in the cellar.

who see the display. But as in most aspects of my life, I adhere to the KISS (keep it simple, stupid) methodology for reefing too.

What came next was my rapid immersion into the marine hobby, and I soon found that I was upgrading my reef every year. I began with a 16-gallon NUVO tank and eventually reached the point where I felt ready for a 6-foot display. While I had grand plans to commandeer the half bath behind the tank to build a sump room, I was told in no uncertain terms that it would be the “last thing I do.” Next time, I suppose.

In the sump, I have a Reef Octopus Classic skimmer that really functions as a glorified aerator at this point. I can't recall the last time I emptied its collection cup (I do empty it, just not often). Probably more important to me is the 40-watt AquaUV sterilizer. There's also a T-valve off the main return line that sees occasional use whenever I run carbon.

With my plans of a display being plumbed into a fancy sump room ruined, I had to pivot. What I built actually ended up being quite simple, which always seems to elicit some amount of disbelief from people

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I decided to get a Red Sea Reefer XXL 750, which has a 160-gallon display and a 40-gallon sump. The in-tank flow is provided by a pair of Maxspect Gyre 350s and a pair of EcoTech MP40QDs. A Sicce Syncra SDC 9 powers the return.

Maintenance is fairly easy. I spend about 10 minutes a day scraping the glass, checking the equipment, and topping off the RODI reservoir. On the weekends, I do a 10 to 20 percent water change. Once a month, I clean out the gyres and MP40s.

Unnamed Acropora tenuis

There are a couple of things I am adamant about when it comes to my reef: Flow: I put a lot of emphasis on water flow, as I think it's the most critical environmental factor in a reef. Good flow circulates oxygen to the corals while removing toxins and waste. I make a point of monitoring flow and making tweaks based on careful observation of dead spots. The gyres were specifically chosen based on their ability to move massive sheets of water, despite how annoying it is to keep their strainers clean. Water Changes: They may not be the cool thing to do these days, but I believe in them. There's something about new salt water that's rejuvenating. It's my personal belief that there are always things you can't measure or detect that water changes can remove or renew. There are many things I don't do, and I could spend the rest of this article ranting about these subjects, but I'll keep it as brief as possible: Tracking Trace Elements: Or as I like to call them, 30-step microdosing programs. That's not to say I don't think trace elements play a part in the reef ecosystem, but I think people put too much focus on this when there's much more to be gained by mastering the fundamentals of reef husbandry. Tracking pH: Similar to the above, I see everyone from beginners to advanced aquarists chasing pH because it seems to be the new popular metric. Are there benefits to a high pH? Absolutely. But because it's all that's talked about, it's what beginners chase, when there are so many more important basics to focus on. Mapping PAR: I don't know my PAR and I don't care to. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

CCH Little Red Riding Hood

Unidentified Acropora sp.

Equipment Fads: Equipment is not a replacement for knowledge and good husbandry practice. Technology can help a good reefer be better. It will not mitigate poor husbandry.

ATI T5s ((2) Blue+, (1) Coral+, and (1) Actinic). Lights are on for approximately 9 hours daily, with 1 hour of ramp up and down.

Most of the corals I keep are Acropora, including all sorts of A. tenuis, A. millepora, A. granulosa, and other SPS (small-polyp stony) corals I'll never be able to positively identify. My non-coral inhabitants were mostly chosen based on my whims, which tend to gravitate toward wrasses, supported by a couple of tangs and angelfish (though I would love to one day own a Declivis Butterflyfish). I feed the finned folks three to five times a day with a mixture of frozen and pellet foods, which also indirectly feeds the corals through broadcast feeding. ESV B-Ionic 2-part is added with a Red Sea doser, and magnesium is dosed by hand (counting to 1 or 2 Mississippi) once a month.

I don't tend to worry too much about my parameters. As a goal, these are the averages of the handful of parameters I do track. Most of them wander to some degree, but as long as it's not extreme, I don't sweat it. PARAMETERS Specific Gravity: 1.027 Nitrate: 5 ppm Phosphate: 0.1 ppm Alkalinity: 7 dKH Calcium: 440 ppm Magnesium: 1,300 ppm

Lighting, as of this writing, includes EcoTech Radions on a modified AB schedule (higher percentages of whites, greens, and reds) and

During the time this tank has been up, I've probably made every mistake and suffered every disaster that someone can: plenty of pests, from AEFW (acro-eating flatworms) to white bugs, bacterial

FT Eternal Flame

OLA Dr. Strange

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infections that wiped out half my colonies, the introduction of nuisance corals like clove polyps, and more than a few times my alkalinity may have dropped down to the high-4 range. But it's through these errors that I've learned how foundational skills and habits truly make the difference. All these issues could have been easily avoided if I'd adhered to strict quarantine and dipping practices, regular testing, and keen observation. Looking to the future, I hope to upgrade to a larger tank one day. I keep complaining to my better half about how the current tank has no more space. If I play my cards right, I will eventually annoy my wife to the point where she'll let me get a larger tank just to shut me up. Maybe something in the 8' × 3' × 2' range. If there's anything I've learned in my roller coaster of a reefing journey, it's this: I know even less than I think I do, and I have less control than I thought. R

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Mike's Mighty Nano MIKE HARMAN

'd always had freshwater aquariums growing up. Then around the age of 15, I started keeping African cichlids and shortly after transitioned to salt water. I started my first reef tank at 17, which was a 20-gallon, all-in-one system with a simple Mars Aqua black box LED. I was living with my girlfriend at the time, who is now my wife, and she took care of that tank once I turned 18 and shipped out to Paris Island. I eventually tried moving the tank 9 hours away to our new home in North Carolina, but it didn't end well. I lost everything and decided to step back from reefing for a bit. I was glad I did because there was no way I could possibly have given the tank the attention it deserved. I never stopped thinking about the hobby though. It was always in the back of my mind, and I couldn't wait for the opportunity to try again. After transitioning out of the United States Marine Corps, I was eager to get back into reefing. I started this Waterbox 20 in August

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of 2021 after my daughter was born. In the beginning, I failed hard. The tank was supposed to be dominated by Euphyllia species. Unfortunately, I lost most of my Euphyllia colonies due to polyp bailout triggered by insufficient nutrient levels. The only thing that survived is what you see here today, my SPS (small-polyp stony) corals. I had learned an expensive lesson about how remarkably efficient a macroalgae reactor can be for nutrient export. I grew most of my SPS with a simple AI Prime light. I then took a deep dive into the world of LED reef lighting and created my own strip lights to supplement the Prime. This combination worked fine for around 4 months, but eventually I wanted something stronger. I upgraded to an AI Hydra 52 HD, and I am very pleased with it. The lowest part of my tank gets around 220 PAR, with the top getting around 330–335 PAR.

In the first chamber behind the display, I have the original AIO automatic filter roller made by Reef N Rolls. I've tried other means of mechanical filtration, but this is what best fits into my lifestyle. In chamber two, I have MarinePure Gems and a simple Jebao 400 GPH DC pump that feeds a DIY Aquamaxx FR-SE macroalgae reactor. That reactor returns into a 2.5-inch filter cup where I put ROX 0.8 carbon or RowaPhos as needed. Chamber three houses an Eheim 150-watt heater controlled by a JBJ TrueTemp controller, a 25-watt drop-in UV sterilizer, an AutoAqua auto top-off system, and one of the smallest Innovative Marine Mighty Jet return pumps. The display area has two AI Nero 3s that I run at 65 percent on pulse mode. Lastly, I have a Jebao ALW-5 in the bottom left corner of my display to minimize any detritus buildup on the bottom. I chose to go bare bottom with this system because it's a cleaner look and provides easier maintenance. I am glad I took this approach because the amount of water movement I have in this small system would make a sandbed nearly impossible. I've always stuck with the old adage of not chasing numbers. I try my best to keep the tank's parameters close to my newly mixed salt water, which is made with Fritz RPM. I like to think of parameters as related groups instead of individually. Group A consists of alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. Using my Hanna Checkers, I keep alkalinity at 8.5, calcium at 440–450 ppm, and magnesium at 1,350–1,400 ppm. I achieve this by auto-dosing 29 mL of Tropic Marin All-For-Reef daily. Group B includes the nutrients nitrate and phosphate. With the macroalgae reactor, it's simple for me to dial in the level of nutrients I want. I generally like to keep nitrate at 6–8 ppm and phosphate at 0.03–0.06 ppm. To do this, I add

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1 mL of ESV B-Ionic Nitrate and 2 mL of Brightwell NeoPhos daily. Lastly, I dose AcroPower by Two Little Fishies according to their instructions. Group C is everything else. I keep specific gravity at 1.025, and I run my system a little warm compared to a lot of people out there: 80–81 degrees Fahrenheit. Every week, I do a 2.5-gallon water change with my added nutrients to replace what is being removed. As of now, I'm not sure what the future holds for the Waterbox 20. I have been playing with the idea of possibly upgrading to a 35.2, but I'm enjoying this tank. I like nanos in general, and they're all I've ever had. One thing I can tell you is I certainly enjoy getting out there and connecting with other hobbyists on all the various platforms and helping them avoid the mistakes I've made. To me, that's what this hobby's all about. R

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Image by author & Vojce

Anthias for Smaller Aquariums

ART PAROLA

ew fish evoke the wonder of tropical coral reefs like those of the subfamily Anthiinae, more commonly referred to as anthias or fairy basslets. Examples of this subfamily are almost ubiquitous on postcard-type photos of coral reefs, with the Lyretail Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) being especially prominent. These reef fish tend to hover in great numbers in areas of high flow, picking passing plankton out of the water column, with males defending a territory from conspecific males. In captivity, the needs of most anthias species can be hard to accommodate in any aquarium smaller than 55 gallons. Even in tanks of this size, intraspecies aggression can be an issue, and long-term successful maintenance of a school of anthias generally requires an aquarium of over 100 gallons.

However, there are a couple of anthias species that occupy a slightly different niche in nature, leading to differences in physiology and behavior that allow them to be maintained in smaller aquariums. Fish in the genera Serranocirrhitus, Plectranthias, and a select few species of Pseudanthias have sizes, growth rates, and behaviors that make them better suited to life in smaller aquariums. In fact, the look and behaviors of fishes in the first two genera have led to confusion as to whether they are hawkfish or anthias. FATHEAD SUNBURST ANTHIAS The genus name of Serranocirrhitus illustrates the confusion surrounding whether the single species it contains is an anthias or a hawkfish. Serranocirrhitus translates to "grouper-hawkfish" (the subfamily Anthiinae is a part of the family Serranidae, the sea basses and groupers). While the aptly named Fathead Sunburst Anthias (Serranocirrhitus latus) does resemble a hawkfish with its forward-set eyes and upturned mouth, the constant swimming (as

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opposed to perching), the bright pink and yellow tones across the entire body, and the flowing fins reveal that this species truly is an anthias. While not quite a fish that most aquarists would consider for a nano tank, a single Fathead Sunburst Anthias will do quite well in the popular 26- or 28-gallon all-in-one aquarium systems. The species is reported to reach lengths of up to 5 inches, but it is rare to see a specimen over 3.5 inches. S. latus is also a notoriously slow grower. Providing plenty of structural rockwork for S. latus will make this fish more comfortable and increase the likelihood that it will stay out in the open. A crevice or overhang that is visible from the front of the tank will allow for the viewing of some interesting behaviors. Often, S. latus will swim upside down under a ledge, watching for plankton to float by. This more cryptic nature contrasts with the open-water swimming behavior of other anthias, allowing for the Fathead Sunburst Anthias to thrive without the space required by other anthias species. In aquariums of 55 gallons or larger, keeping multiple S. latus together may help provide a sense of security to the fish. Fathead Sunburst Anthias have a tendency to hide in the rockwork in larger aquariums, so maximizing comfort for the fish by providing other small fish, especially members of its own species, and plenty of hiding places can help coax them out into the open. S. latus is generally not aggressive toward other fish, though it can hold its own with most fish of similar size. This species does have a large mouth, and anything small enough to fit may be eaten. Therefore, caution should be exercised with small gobies such as Trimma and Tigrigobius species and similar-sized fish or small

Fathead Sunburst Anthias | Image by author

shrimps such as Sexy Shrimp (Thor amboinensis). In smaller systems, S. latus may be territorial with conspecifics. In the wild, the Fathead Sunburst Anthias is planktivorous. High-quality frozen Mysis shrimp make a good staple diet for the species. Frozen and live copepods, brine shrimp, krill, fish eggs, and other small meaty foods can also work well as supplements. PYGMY PERCHLET Sometimes referred to as the Geometric Pygmy Hawkfish, the Pygmy Perchlet (Plectranthias inermis) looks and behaves even more like a hawkfish than its Fathead Sunburst Anthias cousin, but again, this is not a hawkfish. Undeterred in its mimicry, the Pygmy Perchlet will often settle on a high point of rock or coral, watching intently and preparing to swoop down on morsels of plankton. This fish might make a formidable predator if not for its small size, maxing out at under 2 inches in length and therefore really only a threat to copepods, amphipods, and mysid shrimp. Because of its miniscule size and benthic lifestyle, this anthias species is suitable even for nano tanks, as long as water parameters are kept stable. In large aquariums, it may be nearly invisible amongst the rockwork and therefore tends to be better suited for viewing in smaller setups. P. inermis is a relatively hardy fish and generally tolerates tankmates well, including conspecifics. One must be cautious when housing this species with tankmates that are larger or have large mouths. Even species generally regarded Pygmy Perchlets | Image by Sabine Penisson

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congeners and does well in aquariums aquascaped with caves and overhangs. Dimmer lighting may also benefit this deepwater species. In larger tanks, this species may be kept in aggregations. In a 30-gallon aquarium, a single individual is best. A pair may be attempted with caution, though the aquarist should keep a watchful eye and be prepared to intervene in case of aggression. It should also be noted that this species does not do well with boisterous tankmates and should only be kept in an aquarium with other placid species. Randall's Anthias also tends to have a fast metabolism and should be fed frequently throughout the day with small meaty foods such as Mysis shrimp. PURCHASING ANTHIAS

Pelicier’s Perchlet | Image by Vojce

as peaceful but with large mouths, such as cardinalfish, may prey on Pygmy Perchlets if given the opportunity. As a micropredator, the Pygmy Perchlet does well on a diet similar to other anthias. Despite its small size, the mouth of this species is relatively large, and adults can gulp down foods such as Mysis and brine shrimp with ease. RARE PERCHLET SPECIES While Plectranthias inermis is the only perchlet commonly available in the aquarium trade, it is not the only interesting species in the genus. Unfortunately, the remaining Plectranthias species tend to be rarely available and expensive due to limited distributions and cryptic nature, making them difficult to collect. However, like P. inermis, these fish do make excellent aquarium fish, and there are some absolutely stunning species. Pelicier's Perchlet (Plectranthias pelicier) is occasionally imported from Mauritius and Japan. This species displays brilliant reds and oranges with a bright yellow target shape posterior to the gill plate. The Longfin Perchlet (Plectranthias longimanus) is a bright red fish with white spots, but it is also rarely collected. It is unfortunate that these and other Plectranthias species are so rarely available; they are attractive and hardy, making them excellent aquarium fish, especially for nano tanks.

Anthias have historically been viewed as finicky species. Being small and often collected at some depth, they must be carefully handled throughout the supply chain. Advancements in collection and handling practices over the years have increased survivability of these species significantly, but it is still worth looking over any potential purchases for injuries, infections, or trouble maintaining proper buoyancy. Ensuring that the fish is eating before purchase is also a good practice that can help confirm the fish is of good quality and in proper health. ATTAINABLE ANTHIAS Few fish are as representative of the color and grace of reef fish as the anthias. While most anthias are only suitable for medium and large setups, aquarists who wish to recreate a coral reef in their home but are limited to a smaller aquarium do have options that can allow them to showcase some gorgeous and interesting members of the subfamily. R Reference: Scott, M.W. (1998) Reef Fishes. Volume 1, TFH-Microcosm.

RANDALL'S ANTHIAS One of the smallest members of the genus, Pseudanthias randalli maxes out at a length of 3 inches. This species displays a gorgeous mix of pinks and reds, and a dramatic shift in color occurs when the fish undergoes transition from female to supermale. P. randalli is not as open-water oriented as its

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A pair of Randall’s Anthias | Image by Vojce