Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q1 2024 by Reef Hobbyist Magazine

FIRST QUARTER 2024 I VOLUME 18

STAINED GLASS CHALICE

Acropora millepora Using Algae for Filtration Beating Cyanobacteria

FEATURES 6

LUBECKY’S REEF: GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES Bob Lubecky has been in the hobby since the '90s and is still lovin’ it. When meticulous planning meets top-notch technology, big ideas come to life in this little reef.

SALVAGING SEA LIFE Paolo A. Santos is a professional filmmaker and photographer with an intense passion for the marine environment. A personal mission to save marine life destined for the trash heap led Paolo to create this beautiful show tank.

MILLI MADNESS Joseph Ghosheh is the owner of Carolina Coral Heads, a business specializing in the aquaculture of rare corals. Acropora millepora is one of the classic coral species in our hobby. Here’s a review of some of Joseph's favorite morphs and best care tips.

CLEAN GREEN FILTRATION MACHINES Jim Adelberg is the executive editor of RHM. Nutrient management is one key to a thriving reef, and all options should be considered. Learn more about algaebased filtration in this review of the two leading filter types.

ANDRE’S IN -WALL TANK Andre Takahashi is a veterinarian who founded Reef Point, a company that imports and distributes aquarium products in Brazil. A dedicated approach and a commitment to quality equipment have allowed Andre to construct this in-wall marvel.

MIDNIGHT REEF John Waldman is a reefer who emigrated to the US from Ukraine in 1992. A number of upgrades, setbacks, and moves meant that John was over a decade into the hobby before he succeeded in assembling this thriving reef display.

40 ON THE COVER STAINED GLASS CHALICE

Eric Arnell has 34 years in the hobby and is the founder of Lucky Corals. The Stained Glass Chalice is an Oxypora sp. of exceptional color and pattern. Catch a glimpse of it here.

CYANOBACTERIA: THE NIGHTMARE NUISANCE André Lavareda hails from Portugal with almost 20 years in the hobby. Cyano is a particularly tough nuisance to eradicate from a home reef. Understanding this pest and its vulnerabilities will give you the edge to defeat it.

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

ANNOUNCEMENTS • Our online magazine now features videos within articles and product commercials from our advertisers. Experience the new issue on our website! • Care to share your reefing, fragging, breeding, or husbandry success with the world? Contact us through our website with your article ideas.

SPONSORED EVENTS • DFWMAS Frag Swap - March 9, Arlington, TX – www.dfwmas.org • Reef-A-Palooza (Orlando) - April 20–21, Orlando, FL – www.reefapaloozashow.net • Reef-A-Palooza (New York) - June 22–23, Secaucus, NJ – www.reefapaloozashow.net • Reef-A-Palooza (Los Angeles) - September 7–8, Anaheim, CA – www.reefapaloozashow.net

DIGITAL & HARD-COPY SUBSCRIPTIONS Scan this QR code to register for your free digital subscription. You'll be the first to know when a new issue is released and get full access to archives on our website. You can also sign up for a hard-copy subscription for home delivery.

WANT RHM IN YOUR STORE? Fish stores! It's easy to stock Reef Hobbyist Magazine for your customers. We assist you in educating hobbyists on new products, husbandry techniques, and livestock. Contact one of our distributors below or email us through the "Contact Us" tab on our website to get stocked. • All Seas Marine – www.allseaslax.com • Aquarium Supply Distribution – www.aquariumsupplydistribution.com • Bulk Reef Supply – www.bulkreefsupply.com • CoralVue – www.coralvue.com • DFW Aquarium Supply – www.dfwaquarium.com • Pan Ocean Aquarium – www.panoceanaquarium.com • ReefH2O – www.reefh2o.com • Reef Nutrition – www.reefnutrition.com • Segrest Farms – www.segrestfarms.com

FOLLOW US ON THE WEB! www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com Get full access to RHM archives Watch videos and commercials in the multimedia magazine Learn about new products from the top manufacturers Sign up for a hard-copy subscription or FREE digital subscription Follow us on Facebook @reefhobbyistmag Follow us on Instagram @reefhobbyistmagazine

STAFF President Harry T. Tung Executive Editor Jim Adelberg Art Director Yoony Byun

Photography Advisor Sabine Penisson Copy Editor Melinda Campbell Proofreader S. Houghton

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: advertising@rhmag.com or contact us on our website

LUBECKY’S REEF: GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES ROBERT LUBECKY 6

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

Rasta Zoas

Storm Clownfish in a Rose Bubble-tip Anemone

’ve been in the aquarium hobby since the early ’90s. Like most reefers, I began with freshwater tanks and kept various types of fish, from mollies to cichlids. My saltwater journey began in 2001. That first marine tank was a 120-gallon display with a custom 75-gallon sump in the basement below. When we moved in 2010, I set up a 45-gallon mixed reef, followed by a 112-gallon ULNS (ultralow nutrient system) tank for SPS (small-polyp stony) corals. When we moved again in 2013, I decided to take a break from the hobby. After an 8-year hiatus, my lovely wife surprised me with a 32-gallon BioCube in December of 2021. It wouldn’t have been my first choice (specifically the water volume), but I was so excited to get back into the hobby that I immediately started planning the build. GOALS My primary goal for the 32-gallon cube was to have an SPSdominant reef. And with the KISS (keep it simple, stupid) method in mind, I wanted it to be as automated and carefree as possible. I took my time with this build and gave careful consideration to the livestock selection. I knew that nutrient control and biodiversity would be key to my success with SPS. Additionally, strong lighting and vigorous water flow would be critically important, so I realized immediately that the stock BioCube equipment would need to be upgraded. I decided that whatever equipment I purchased would need to last and be able to support the reef as it matured. I also wanted equipment that could carry over to the next upgrade, because we all know there’s going to be another tank. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

FILTRATION I don’t run a skimmer; I depend on water changes, filter floss, live rock, activated carbon, and my refugium for filtration. TESTING I tested nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium weekly (sometimes twice weekly) for the first year. The Apex and Trident now monitor and correct most of the parameters automatically. I currently check nitrate and phosphate once a month. I am at the point where I can look at the tank and see how the corals are doing. If something looks off, I test. LIVE ROCK AND SAND I went with 35 pounds of live rock from the Gulf of Mexico, and I’m glad I did. The biodiversity that comes with live rock from the ocean is unparalleled, and I believe it’s the reason my tank has flourished from a young age. The tank still went through an ugly phase, but it was swift. I battled lingering cyano for months, but luckily it was confined to the sandbed. I’m a firm believer in live rock and will accept all the risks that come with it. For substrate, I started with oolitic sand, which was a mistake, given the amount of flow I have. I eventually switched to 25 pounds of special-grade sand, which has a grain size of 1 to 2 mm versus the 0.25 mm average size of the oolitic sand. CLEANUP CREW Left: Daisy Duke Zoas | Middle: Orange Jawbreaker Mushrooms | Right: Yellow palys

FLOW I upgraded the return pump to an Innovative Marine nano DC pump that puts out 520 gallons per hour. I also added two EcoTech Marine VorTech MP10s that are set at 100 percent (full power) Nutrient Export mode during the day and 50 percent Reef Crest mode at night. My overall turnover reaches 200 times per hour at its peak. There are no issues with flow at this point.

I have a huge cleanup crew for a 32-gallon tank, and they have done an amazing job over the last 20 months. I also have countless sponges and pods and hundreds of bristleworms and brittle stars that have repeatedly spawned in my tank. • (12) Turbo sp. snails • (12) cerith snails • (12) nerite snails • (12) Nassarius sp. snails • (12) Blue Leg Hermit Crabs

• (3) Scarlet Hermit Crabs • Emerald Crab • Mexican Turbo Snail • Peppermint Shrimp • Cleaner Shrimp

LIGHTING

FISH

I decided on an EcoTech Marine Radion G5 XR30 Blue to light the tank. I’m extremely happy I went with the XR30 over the smaller XR15. I will never have to worry about having enough light as the corals mature into colonies. Since the beginning, I have been using the AB+ setting with all color channels at full power and the overall fixture intensity set to 77 percent.

I’ve had some regrets and I’m not going to lie. I love Flame Angels, and of course I got one that nipped at my SPS, so I had to tear the tank apart to get him out. My only other regret was my flasher wrasse. I loved Willy the wrasse. He had the best personality and was a complete pig at feeding time. Willy loved to swim though, and the BioCube is too small for a fish that needs a lot of open space to flourish. I kept him well fed, but in the end, he went to fish heaven.

AUTOMATION I currently run the Neptune APEX Gold package with two DOS Dual Reservoir dosers for kalkwasser, magnesium, alkalinity, and calcium. A Neptune Systems Trident provides automated water testing. The Trident has come in handy as the tank matures, and I’ve had to make several adjustments to dosing to accommodate the growth of the corals. I’m currently in a phase where I’m dosing less, as I had to remove a large tricolor Montipora digitata colony that was suffering from monti-eating nudibranchs. The one thing that is not automated is my weekly water change. Currently, I do that the old-fashioned way. Maybe someday that will change too.

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

I currently have the following fish: • (2) Storm Clownfish • Green Clown Goby

• Mandarin Dragonet • Banggai Cardinalfish

I originally stocked three Banggai Cardinals, but the dominant pair got rid of the weakest link pretty quickly and then had babies almost every 45 days. Eventually, the male ended up attacking his mate, which led to the death of the female. I love all my fish; they each have unique personalities, just like kids.

My fish eat well. I make my own fish food using fresh clams, oysters, mussels, cod, shrimp, and scallops. I add Selcon, fresh garlic, and spirulina and feed this mix three to five times per day. CORALS I went through my fair share of losses but love how the tank has matured over the last year. I don’t have one specific favorite coral and love all the shapes and textures across the wide palette of intense colors. I’m probably forgetting a few, but here’s a list of what I’m keeping: SPS • Green Slimer • TSA Victoria Secrets • Jason Fox Yellow Brick Road • WWC Kung Pao Montipora • Steve Elias Blue Stag • Purple Rain • WWC 500 Degrees • Cherry Blossom Cyphastrea • tricolor Montipora digitata

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

• Beach Bum Montipora • orange Montipora setosa • Oregon Tort • several plating and encrusting SPS ZOANTHIDS • Blue Balls • Daisy Dukes • Rainbow Incinerators • Rastas LPS • green torch with blue tips • golden hammer • blue Blastomussa sp. MUSHROOMS • Jawbreaker • Ricordea florida ANEMONE • Rose Bubble-tip WATER CHANGES I do water changes weekly and have never missed one. I spend about 2 hours cleaning and siphoning as part of the process. Approximately 7 to 9 gallons of water are changed, which amounts to 25 to 30 percent water volume. I siphon out and replace sections of the sandbed throughout the year to keep it clean and blow detritus off the rocks every other day. DOSING ESV B-Ionic 2-Part: 20 mL per day Magnesium: 20 mL per day Kalkwasser: top-off only, ~1,450 mL per day Flatworm Stop: 1 mL per day Live Phytoplankton: 5 mL every 2 days Pods: reseed every 6 weeks PARAMETERS Temperature: 77.4–77.8° F Salinity: 35.5 ppm pH: 8.3–8.5 Nitrate: 12–22 ppm Alkalinity: 7.5–8.0 dKH Calcium: 410–440 ppm Phosphate: 0.08–0.23 ppm (0.12 ppm target) Magnesium: 1,340–1,400 ppm

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

I think being patient and keeping my hands out of the tank is important. There isn’t only one way to have a successful reef, but I would say that across all the different methods, consistency is vital. Regular, conscientious husbandry is the key to stability, which is more important than "ideal" water test results. WHAT’S NEXT There’s nothing I can add at this point since the tank is already packed. I will work on enhancing nutrient export a little, but mainly I get to just sit back and stare for hours at all of its beauty. FINAL THOUGHTS I love this hobby for the joy it brings to our family. We all live busy lives, and it's so relaxing and peaceful to come home, sit, and watch the tank as the lights dim. Our kids get involved as well and love to help feed all the critters. There is so much to learn in this hobby and so many great people and resources to help along the way that it can be a lifelong enjoyment. R

SALVAGING SEA LIFE PAOLO A. SANTOS

started in the aquarium hobby with blackwater and cichlid-only systems. I had always wanted a saltwater tank but was plagued with fears about the expense and difficulties associated with maintaining marine water chemistry. Then, on a weekend trip to the Birch Aquarium at Scripps Institute in San Diego, I was so inspired by the beauty of all the marine organisms that my fears were washed away. When I got home, I immediately set up my first saltwater system. That was roughly 25 years ago. I am extremely passionate about the hobby, and I love the sea. From 2003 to 2005, a production company that I founded became the creative partner of ReefCheck Foundation, the United Nations’ official coral reef monitoring program. I worked with marine biologists to understand the plight of marine ecosystems, and this led to the creation of a multidisciplinary show in Las Vegas. It featured artists from Celine Dion’s resident show and Nevada Ballet Theatre. I utilized art to create public awareness about coral reefs and the vital roles they play in nature and the economy and daily lives of people in coastal communities. All the proceeds went to the foundation, and I received

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

the support of Leonardo DiCaprio (who was my honorary event chair), his mother Irmelin Indenbirken, Daryl Hannah, Hollywood producers Gale Anne Hurd and Penelope Anne Miller, and oceanographers Jean-Michel Cousteau and Dr. Sylvia Earl. Fast forward to 2022, and my wife accepted a job that required us to relocate to Mexico, which was great. But it also meant that I had to give up my beloved aquariums. I was heartbroken when I had to sell the fish I had grown so attached to and the corals I had cultivated with so much effort and care. However, a new opportunity was waiting for me. We moved to the Mexican coast in the Riviera Maya, and during my early morning walks, I noticed that the beach maintenance crew raked up everything that had been beached the previous night. There were sponges, mollusks, macroalgae, crustaceans, gorgonians, and Palythoa on coral rubble, and everything was destined for the garbage heap. I had not intended to return to the hobby so quickly, but I felt that I needed to save this marine life. I got permission from the beach cleaners to go through the smelly piles and salvage what

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

I could. I brought an assortment of sea life home in discarded plastic bottles where they stayed until I was able to pick up a small all-in-one tank from Petco in Cancún. This was the genesis of my foray into macroalgae and Caribbean biotope systems. The aquarium featured in this article is a 10-gallon tank that is supported by two HOB (hang-on-back) filters, two mini powerheads, a 50-watt heater, and a 20-watt full-spectrum LED light for planted tanks. It took one afternoon to set everything up, and I stocked it on the same day. It is hard to see in the photo, but there are numerous large live rocks and about 1.5 inches of live sand that are heavily loaded with beneficial bacteria and microfauna. I also have a great diversity of macroalgae. I believe all these factors helped the tank bypass the cycling period and the ugly stage where everything is brown. Best of all, most of the original marine life is still alive today. As of this writing, the tank is 3 months shy of 2 years old. I perform 20 percent natural seawater changes twice a week to maintain water quality, refresh trace elements, and replenish plankton to feed the microfauna. The only additive I use is Seachem’s Flourish Iron for freshwater planted tanks. I add 10 to 12 drops monthly or when the various Caulerpa species go pale. Using natural seawater also frees me from having to test my water for chemical parameters, so honestly, I don’t know what they are. The sea life in this tank thrives because the water comes from the livestock’s natural environment. However, I do accept the fact that

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

natural seawater can contain unknown pathogens, viruses, parasites, and chemicals that could theoretically cause my system to fail. There are no definitive future plans for this tank. I expect to stay here in Mexico long term, but life is unpredictable; a new job offer could be just around the corner, and my wife and I might have to pull up stakes once more. For now, this system will stay at 10 gallons. I will continue to save sea life from the beach cleaners and enjoy seeing it thrive in my simulated piece of the Caribbean in my living room. R

Acropora millepora in the wild | Michelle Jonker

MILLI MADNESS JOSEPH GHOSHEH Images by author except as noted

perennial favorite, Acropora millepora comes in a nearly endless array of different color morphs. In addition to their vivid and broad color palettes, they are cherished for their extremely long polyp extension, giving an otherwise stagnant coral considerable movement. This is something both reefers and non-reefers alike can appreciate. Another appealing aspect of A. millepora is its basket-like growth form and uniform branching, giving it a classic coral shape. A. millepora comes from shallow reefs in the wild, meaning it can handle and even prefers a good amount of flow and PAR (photosynthetically active radiation). Mine seem to enjoy lighting in the 350 PAR range paired with heavy random water flow. The reefs they come from often have a lot of plankton suspended in the water, and like other shallowwater Acropora, they tend to exhibit the best polyp extension when

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

Acropora millepora skeleton | Museon

CCH Chewbacca milli (bottom right) showing signs of tissue necrosis from contact with SBB Heisenberg (top right)

nutrients are abundant. I typically target 10 to 15 ppm nitrate and 0.05 to 0.08 ppm phosphate. Also, like most Acropora, they require good reef water chemistry and stability. Regular water testing and adjustments should be performed to ensure success. As far as feedings go, I only feed phytoplankton and a small amount of amino acids daily. In my experience, broadcast feeding additional food to my corals is unnecessary. I’ve found that if I use good quality food for my fish and feed liberally, their waste provides all the particulate food the corals require. If you don’t keep a lot of fish or you feed them sparingly, supplemental coral feeding may be necessary. Most SPS (small-polyp stony) coral collectors can identify A. millepora pretty quickly based on its uniform structure and long polyp extension. Although most A. millepora have similar characteristics, there seems to be some confusion with other species, notably A. prostrata. As a general rule, A. prostrata is considered to have thinner, longer branches. Admittedly, it’s sometimes difficult to distinguish between the two species since the same coral grown in different environments can look very different. Like many things in this hobby, we still have a lot to learn in the identification department. A. prostrata is sometimes listed as a synonym for A. millepora, so this creates even more confusion. The only test I know of is to see what happens when two colonies come in contact with each other. My experience is that A. millepora doesn’t usually attack its own species but will attack others. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

CCH Zelda

CCH Chewbacca

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

RRC Rainbow Splice

I’ve been collecting quite a few A. millepora for a number of years now, and these are some of my favorites: CCH Zelda is high on my list for its unbelievably bright yellow body and polyps that make it catch the eye from across the room. CCH Chewbacca is a morph I love for its sharp color contrast and insanely long polyp extension (even for A. millepora). My colony boasts incredibly bright, long green polyps on a hot pink and violet body with blue tips. RRC Rainbow Splice is a stunning coral, truly in a class of its own. Green, red, and shades of yellow meld together in random patterns to make up this unique gem. Similar to other grafted pieces, no two frags are identical. It’s ideal to start with a frag that has a good mix of colors. In theory, the new growth will keep that nice color mix. However, we have seen some cases where frags starting with only green coloration eventually get some red growth later on. CCH Pegasus is special for its beautiful color gradients, from pastel pinks to violets to light blue tips.

CCH Pegasus

All around, A. millepora is one of my favorites and a great addition to any mixed or SPS-dominant reef. In a sense, they embody the total coral package, combining color, movement, and aesthetics. What’s not to love? R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Clean Green Filtration Machines T

he aquarium hobby, and reefkeeping in particular, is defined by one inescapable conundrum. How do we mimic the environmental stability of vast natural ecosystems in our relatively tiny tanks? Some things are easy. Electric heaters and chillers eliminate the temperature swings typical of small volumes of water. Protein skimmers and filter socks remove particles that would otherwise break down and quickly pollute the small amount of water in the system. But move on to the dissolved organics side of things and the benefits of large natural habitats become more difficult to replicate at home. Historically, one solution has been to use various media that are nonreusable to remove undesirable dissolved organics from the system. The most obvious examples would be carbon and GFO (granular ferric oxide). This approach works as well today as it always has. Another methodology relies on boosting natural processes by optimizing environments to produce a desired effect. One example that comes to mind was the trend of constructing very large remote deep sandbeds to facilitate anaerobic filtration and thus reduce nitrates. And while not all innovations have stood the test of time, one has and continues to evolve. That’s remote algal filtration. THE BENEFITS A properly designed, implemented, and maintained algae filter offers many benefits that can’t be achieved in any other way, and I believe this is why they remain extremely popular. First, they can be very simple. Do you have an empty chamber in your sump with decent flow? Toss in some Chaetomorpha algae, put a cheap clip light over it, and voila, you have a remote algae filter. This exact setup has been used on countless successful reef tanks over the years. Algae filters can be very low maintenance as well, and in the Chaetomorpha example above, all you have to do is thin out the algae periodically so it doesn’t smother itself.

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

Image by CoralVue

JIM ADELBERG

Another substantial benefit to algae filters is that they are dynamic. If you’re experiencing a period of high dissolved nutrient levels in your system, the algae will grow in synchrony with the available nutrients. You don’t need to change anything, and the algae growth will ramp up and down as needed. This is in marked contrast to using nutrient-uptake media (e.g., carbon and GFO) where the fresh media will have a strong initial effect that tapers off over time. This means that the media must be monitored for reduced effectiveness and replaced as needed. Depending on the species of algae grown, many people use their harvested algae to feed to their fish. In one of my tanks, I use remotely grown chaeto to provide nesting materials for my Royal Gramma trio. Growing a robust colony of algae remotely also effectively limits the available nutrients that might otherwise fuel nuisance algae outbreaks in the display tank, and this can greatly reduce the

A constant supply of healthy fish food is just one of the many benefits of growing algae for filtration. | Image by CoralVue

amount of algae cleaning you need to do to keep your display looking great. And last, but certainly not least, remote algae filters can be set to run on a reverse daylight photoperiod schedule from the main tank. The benefit of an algae filter run this way is that it provides dissolved oxygen from the algae’s photosynthesis during the time when the main display’s lights are off and the corals (and any algae in the main tank) are not producing oxygen. This will stabilize the system overall because, as the algae in the filter exchanges the available carbon dioxide for oxygen, it stabilizes the system’s overall dissolved oxygen level and thus also stabilizes pH and alkalinity.

Tunze’s 3181 macroalgae reactor with chaeto | Image by Tunze

Hobbyists commonly grow chaeto in their macroalgae reactors, but they can also be used to grow species that typically need to attach to a substrate, such as Halymenia durvillei (Dragon’s Breath) or Gracilaria parvispora (Red Ogo). Be aware that some macroalgae

My only quibble with algal filtration is that the growth of algae can be so fast in the optimized environment that weekly harvest may be a necessity. Depending on your needs, this could just as easily be a benefit if, for example, you were growing algae for fish food or for trade. There are currently two main types of algae filters that are popular, and while both lend themselves to fairly easy DIY installations, both types are also available from trusted manufacturers in our hobby. MACROALGAE REACTORS While the earlier example of chaeto in a sump is perhaps the most basic type of macroalgae filter, many manufacturers produce more advanced units that are fully contained. These usually consist of acrylic chambers, often with a preinstalled light, which are designed to provide consistent water flow and lighting to the algae inside. These enclosed units isolate the algae from atmospheric carbon dioxide, which limits the carbon dioxide source for the algae to what is contained within the system water and forces all oxygen produced back into the system. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

This macroalgae reactor is producing strong chaeto growth. | Image by CoralVue

IceCap waterfall algae turf scrubber | Image by CoralVue

will sequester a fair amount of calcium (e.g., Halimeda spp.), and this may be a consideration in deciding which species to grow. One final warning is in order here: don’t use Caulerpa spp. in your macroalgae reactor. The enhanced growing environment in the reactor means that Caulerpa will do really well and are then likely to go sexual and crash, which could lead to a massive dump of nutrients into the system. Caulerpa blooms have been known to wipe out even well-established systems in short order. Commercially available macroalgae reactors are typically designed to be placed in a remote location such as an equipment cabinet, though some units can be placed inside a sump as well, given available space. ALGAE TURF SCRUBBERS (ATS) The other type of algae filter that is currently in vogue is referred to as an algae turf scrubber. This type of filter gets its name from the turf algae that are encouraged to grow in the filter. In contrast to the previous reactors, this system relies on microalgae as opposed to macroalgae and is also different in terms of the reactor design.

Internal LEDs provide lighting for vigorous algae growth inside this turf scrubber. | Image by CoralVue

The turf algae are generally grown on an illuminated screen or mesh material. The algae are induced to photosynthesize rapidly by optimizing the mix of air and water over the turf algae. In some designs, the screens are mounted in a vertical orientation and a spray or stream of water is pumped over them. This type of unit is known as a waterfall ATS. A waterfall ATS setup keeps the algae constantly wet but not submerged, and the enhanced gas exchange allows the algae to photosynthesize at maximum rates. In other models, the screen is set above an airstone in an enclosed unit and placed inside the sump or in the display. This is known as an upflow ATS. An upflow unit is less efficient because the algae are submerged and there is less carbon dioxide available for photosynthesis, but they also tend to be a little quieter.

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

Fast-growing turf algae on the screen of an ATS | Image by CoralVue

horizontal screens and probably some designs I’m not even aware of. CLOSING

The Santa Monica Filtration SURF8 is an upflow turf scrubber designed to float in the sump or display. | Image by Santa Monica Filtration

Depending on which species of turf algae you grow, both types of systems can produce a lot of algae to feed to your fish, though this rampant and desirable growth necessitates regular scrubbing and scraping of the screens. Algae turf scrubbers are available in both open-top and light-sealed designs, with either horizontally or vertically mounted screens. There are also floating models with

If you’re new to algae filtration, I’d encourage you to do some in-depth research and see if one of these systems might be a good choice for your reef. As mentioned earlier, all of these systems can be built as DIY filters, and many of the parts can be acquired fairly inexpensively from a variety of manufacturers. Choosing between commercial units is often a matter of where you have space. If you don’t have a sump or there’s no space left in your sump, it’s probably best to look at sealed-chamber macroalgae reactors that can be mounted anywhere near the tank. If you have sump space that’s easily accessible for regular maintenance, then an ATS may be a good choice. If you’re going to run a reverse daylight photoperiod schedule, consider light leakage from the sump, the turf scrubber, or the macroalgae chamber, especially if it’s in a bedroom. I hope this brief review of algae filtration will at least pique your interest in this natural nutrient control method. When executed properly, these filters are some of the easiest and least expensive ways to enhance the nutrient stability of any reef tank. R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Andre’s In-Wall Tank ANDRE TAKAHASHI

’m a 37-year-old reefer who’s been in the hobby for 20 years. About 9 years ago, I decided to turn my hobby into a career. I live in São Paulo, Brazil, and I’m one of the owners of Reef Point, a company that imports and distributes reputable aquarium brands like MarcoRocks, Flipper, Illumagic, ReeFlowers, and Colombo. The in-wall display featured in this article was constructed in 2010 for my parents’ residence and has gone through four iterations. With this latest design, my goal was to create an iconic aquascape that would inspire others. I wanted to show what could be achieved with a dedicated approach to the hobby and a commitment to quality equipment. This aquascape was not difficult to build, but it took a lot of planning to counterbalance the weight of the overhanging shelf. To safely anchor this large structure, I had to place a foundation beneath the sandbed that is almost the length of the overhang. My recipe for reefing success is quality lighting, robust water movement, and excellent water quality. To me, excellent water quality means controlled nutrient levels and stable parameters, not a slavish dedication to specific test results. Over the years, I’ve kept tanks with different combinations of alkalinity and calcium levels with no issues. I’ve found that as long as there are no huge fluctuations, these very different systems can all flourish.

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

SPECIFICATIONS Display: ~55" × 30" × 20", 140 gallons Sump: 53 gallons Turnover: 170–185 gallons per hour Aquascape: MarcoRocks Sandbed: ReeFlowers Pearl White Sand, 1–1.5 mm Lighting: (3) Illumagic X4, (2) Illumagic Vitamini 1200 Super Actinic LED bars Flow: (2) Rossmont M1900, SunSun JVP 102, Hsbao W40 Return Pump: Yi Fang GF12000 Heater: (2) Eheim Jager, 300 watts Skimmer: Red Starfish RS-C9 Dosing Pumps: Kamoer X1 Refugium: Chaetomorpha algae When I started this tank, my goal was to stock exclusively SPS (small-polyp stony) corals. I also had to make space for the Squamosa Clam that I’ve had for 8 years and an anemone for the pair of clownfish that had been with me since my first tank in 2003. Unfortunately, the original male passed away last year, so I recently added a new clownfish to keep the 20-year-old female company. As regards stocking, I like to add animals that will work to keep the tank clean. A Magnificent Foxface and some tangs graze the

Equipment room behind the display

algae, a Melanurus and Yellow Coris Wrasse keep pests under control, a Copperband Butterfly eats the Aiptasia, and a Diamond Goby keeps the sandbed clean. Also included are a Peppermint Shrimp, Tuxedo Urchins, and Sand-sifting Starfish. These starfish are essential for cleaning and aerating the sandbed and help me keep the tank looking presentable. FISH • (2) Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) • Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon) • Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) • Blue Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus) • Blonde Naso Tang (Naso elegans) • Magnificent Foxface (Siganus magnificus) • Pyramid Butterflyfish (Hemitaurichthys polylepis) • Copperband Butterflyfish (Chelmon rostratus) • Spotted Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus picturatus) • Yellow Coris Wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) • Blueside Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura) • Melanurus Wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus) • (2) Diamond Goby (Valenciennea puellaris) INVERTEBRATES AND CORALS • Acropora spp. • Montipora digitata • Montipora setosa • Seriatopora caliendrum • Stylophora sp. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

The aquascape was constructed using MarcoRocks.

• Anacropora sp. • Caulastrea furcata • Bubble-tip Anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor) • Squamosa Clam (Tridacna squamosa) • Tuxedo Urchin (Mespilia globulus) • Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) • Sand-sifting Starfish (Astropecten polyacanthus) I usually go to my parents’ house two to three times a week to clean the glass, perform water changes and testing, and complete general maintenance. My dad is responsible for feeding the fish, keeping the auto top-off filled, and some of the dosing. Keeping nutrients under control is very important since my dad is a heavy feeder. I use a macroalgae refugium with Chaetomorpha to keep nitrates and phosphates under control. If these nutrient levels start to rise, I add ReeFlowers Bacteria Feeder (a carbon source) to facilitate the rapid growth of beneficial bacteria and help reduce the nutrient load. Currently, my goal is to keep nitrates between 0.5 and 2.0 ppm, as I’ve noticed that some of my SPS corals don’t react well to ultralow nitrates. With slightly elevated nitrates, SPS corals can thrive as

The reef at 12 months old

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

long as good lighting and flow are provided. Phosphates are stable between 0.03 and 0.06 ppm. Water changes are essential for the system, and I try to do a 20 percent change every 2 weeks. When I take a bit longer to get to it, I increase the volume changed to 30 percent. I’ve been using ReeFlowers Caledonia Coral Salt since the start of this tank with great results. Every week, I test for alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, nitrate, phosphate, potassium, iron, and iodine with my Colombo test kits. Adjustments are made to my dosing regimen based on the results. My lighting schedule is pretty simple. The Illumagic fixtures are Bluetooth-app controlled, and they come with a preprogrammed SPS mode called P3. I have my lights set to turn on at 11 A.M. and off at 11 P.M. An analog timer controls the Illumagic Vitamini LED bars, which are set to the same photoperiod. In my experience, I get a lot better results with Illumagic fixtures than other brands because they provide great PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) and spectrum, especially in the UV range. This has improved both the color and growth of my corals.

PRODUCTS USED • ReeFlowers Caledonia Coral Salt for water changes • ReeFlowers Balling Pure Series (Pure kH, Pure Calcium, Pure Magnesium, Ionic Mineral Salt) daily • ReeFlowers B-Color (trace elements) weekly • ReeFlowers F-Color (trace elements) weekly • ReeFlowers Detox G-1100 activated carbon every water change • ReeFlowers ZNAC antioxidant weekly • ReeFlowers Potassium Blend (if potassium is low) • ReeFlowers Bacteria Feeder (carbon source if nitrate/phosphate rises) • Colombo Bacto Balls weekly • Colombo Coral Vits (amino acids and vitamins for corals) daily • Colombo test kits • Flipper Edge and Platinum Scraper for glass cleaning • Flipper Flip Kick for photography PARAMETERS Temperature: 77–79.7° F Specific Gravity: 1.025 Nitrate: 0.5–2.0 ppm Alkalinity: 8.0–8.5 dKH Calcium: 420–440 ppm Phosphate: 0.03–0.06 ppm

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

Magnesium: 1,320–1,380 ppm Potassium: 390–400 ppm LESSONS LEARNED • High PAR is not beneficial if you don’t have the correct spectrum. • Nothing good happens overnight, just bad stuff. Take your time and be patient. • Consider color contrast when placing your corals to make your reef pop. You don’t need high-end corals for your reef to look good. • Don’t chase "perfect" water parameters, and always seek stability. • High-end equipment and large amounts of money spent do not equal great results if you don’t dedicate yourself to the hobby. • Be realistic with the time and money you can provide to your tank and adjust your expectations accordingly. Find the balance that makes the hobby practical and enjoyable for you. • Always learn from your mistakes and especially those of others, but don’t overthink or stress too much. I hope you enjoyed this article. I invite you to follow my company page @reefpointbr on Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook, where we post all our show tanks, developments, and new projects. I have a few new projects coming up and look forward to sharing them in the future. R Reef Hobbyist Magazine

MIDNIGHT REEF The Importance of the Three Ps

(Patience, Persistence, and Perseverance) JOHN WALDMAN

n the spring of 2010, my spouse and I moved into an apartment in Brooklyn, New York, and she bought me a saltwater aquarium to set up in the new space. Her one requirement was that it must have beautiful live corals. Unfortunately, I knew nothing about keeping a saltwater aquarium. I grew up in a household where my dad was an avid freshwater fishkeeper and breeder. I observed him maintaining at least half a dozen aquariums with all sorts of fish species, but they were all freshwater fish. Our saltwater journey began with a 90-gallon, custom-built tank measuring 48" × 24" × 18". Within 30 days of delivery, it was all set up and we began the cycling process with live rock. After 6 months,

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

we started adding fish, and at approximately 9 months, we added our first corals. Sadly, for the next 6 months, we kept losing corals and just kept adding fish. Looking back, we completely lacked a basic knowledge of the hobby. At around 18 months in, we realized that we could keep fish but not corals, and for the next 9 years, we kept a FOWLR (fish only with live rock) system. Fast-forward to the spring of 2020, and the pandemic had us all in lockdown, particularly in New York. I found myself glued to YouTube, watching my favorite experts share their best hobby practices. One evening, I turned to my wife and asked, “Hey, how about them corals?” And so, our reset and restart began. At that point, our tank

had only two fish left, a Blue Tang and a Yellow Tang, both about 9½ years old at the time, the true OGs who were the first fish in the tank. I’d learned just enough to be somewhat dangerous in the hobby and proceeded to fully overhaul the 90-gallon tank to start our mixedreef journey. The biggest problem at the time was that my nitrates exceeded 150 ppm. It was so bad that when I brought the water in to the local fish store to be tested, I was told that no creature should be able to survive in my tank. I decided to add a sulfur denitrator to the system to get the nitrates down. It took nearly a year with the new denitrator and a lot of macroalgae to get nitrates under control. We also got rid of some of the larger pieces of the old rock since we knew those were a haven for nitrates. Eventually, we got nitrates down to 25 ppm, and the first batch of corals went in. Seeing incredibly rapid coral growth, we decided it was safe to start planning for a larger system. In 2021, I started looking for a new peninsula tank that could also serve as a room divider in our new home. We looked at some all-in-one systems, but ultimately, I chose to design my own. We were willing to customize as necessary to realize our vision, with a dual focus on efficiency and aesthetics. That was the birth of Midnight Reef. After designing the tank, we had it custom built by an aquarium manufacturer. The display measures 72" × 28" × 24", with a total system volume of approximately 250 gallons. I designed and installed all the plumbing, and we were pleasantly surprised by how well it came out. I was tired of the filter socks in our old sump, so the new Reef Hobbyist Magazine

sump employs a roller mat. We continued to run carbon and GFO (granular ferric oxide), as well as the sulfur denitrator. We also set up an auto water change system that swaps out 2 gallons every night. Fresh air for the skimmer is drawn from the outside through CO2 scrubbers. SPECIFICATIONS Display: 72" × 28" × 24" Total System Volume: 250 gallons Sump: Trigger Systems, 45 gallons Lighting: (4) AI 32HD, (3) Kessil 360X, (2) Reef Brite XHO Blue, (2) Reef Brite XHO 50/50 Water Movement: (2) EcoTech MP60, (2) Maxspect Gyre XF350 Return Pump: (2) Neptune COR-20 Skimmer: Maxspect Aeraqua Duo AD600 Mechanical Filtration: Trigger Systems roller mat Chemical Filtration: carbon, GFO Reactors: (4) Bashsea, (2) TLF PhosBan Reactor 150 Biological Filtration: microalgae, pods Auto Top-Off: Neptune ATK Kalkwasser: modified Avast, pill stirrer

Trigger Systems sump with built-in roller mat

Left: Neptune Trident water analyzer | Right: electronics control board

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

We dose about 6 liters of kalkwasser throughout the day, which is roughly the amount of water we lose to evaporation. Very rarely do we see our auto top-off kick on. We continue to dose two-part and alkalinity at night to maintain the pH and have had a calcium reactor running for nearly a year now. The demand for alkalinity and calcium went through the roof once the corals started to take off.

Bashsea and Two Little Fishies reactors

Gem Tang

For lighting, we always tried to mimic nature, so a blend of various spectra and good coverage was very important. We initially installed four AquaIllumination 32HDs, complemented with Reef Brite XHO Blues. About 6 months later, we realized we needed to significantly upgrade to provide stronger lighting across all the corals. We added two more Reef Brite XHOs, but this time we used their 50/50 strip for a whiter look and added three Kessil 360Xs for greater light intensity and penetration. There were many challenges with the flow since we wanted to keep three sides open with no objects to obstruct the view. We first went with Maxspect Gyres and two EcoTech MP40s on two sides of the weir. The gyres were mounted vertically, and they just kept making a mess of the sand. Additionally, the MP40s were struggling to move all that water. We realized that we needed to invest more and upgraded to the MP60s, which worked out well. We repurposed one of the gyre pumps by placing it in the center of the weir to move the water at the center and the surface. The second gyre was placed in the sump. Yes, the sump. Many people underestimate how critical it is to have vigorous water movement in their sump. The official transfer from the 90-gallon system to the new 250-gallon system took place in June of 2022. We effectively moved all the rock and nearly all of the water to the new system and topped up with new salt water. It was like a very large water change and was largely a great success. However, since we used new sand instead of sand from the old system, we expected to have some issues, though we didn’t know exactly what they would be. Predictably, within the first

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

few months in the new tank, several SPS (small-polyp stony) coral colonies were lost to RTN (rapid tissue necrosis) and STN (slow tissue necrosis), which we addressed by cutting off the affected areas. We then had incredibly painful and persistent outbreaks of cyanobacteria and bubble algae that lasted for many months. Keeping everything stable and not making any rash or rapid changes was always the trick for us. No matter the eyesore, we knew that with time, things would balance out and level off. We were right, and just about a year after the transfer, the system stabilized and the corals started to thrive and grow rapidly again. We continue to run a sulfur denitrator since we have a heavily stocked tank. The fish and corals are nothing fancy, considering what is available nowadays, but we have always focused on making sure that any addition was a good and proper fit for our ecosystem. We have many tangs who are tireless workers and also some wrasses. The aquascape was created with the understanding that it must provide a comfortable space for all the species. And while the aesthetic is important, the environment for the animals is paramount. Feeding and maintenance of this system is simple. We feed twice a day: nori in the morning for breakfast and frozen foods in the evening. We supplement with pellets three times a week using an auto feeder. Occasionally, we vacuum the sandbed, so the system gets a bit more water changed than just the automatic one at night. Some trace elements are added by hand.

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

TARGET PARAMETERS Temperature: 77° F Specific Gravity: 1.025–1.026 pH: 8.3 Nitrate: 25 ppm

Alkalinity: 8–9 dKH Calcium: 400–450 ppm Phosphate: 0.05 ppm Magnesium: 1,350–1,450 ppm

We strongly believe in the extraordinary power of pods in our system and therefore maintain a robust microalgae growth for them in our sump. There is a small stand of mangroves that have been in the system for over 3 years now, and they are likely soaking up some of the nitrates.

I often tell people I would never set up a tank without a plan to monitor and test the water. Without one, it’s like driving a vehicle blindfolded; it’s just a matter of time before you crash. We use a Neptune Trident water analyzer, and an ICP test is performed on the system every 3 months.

Let me wrap up with this short scary incident we had that speaks to the importance of correct system design and maintenance. Without our realizing it, the weir had slowly begun to clog and raise the water level in the display. When the water pumps shut off, the water dropped into the sump to the level of the weir intake. Because we had more water in the display than originally planned for, the sump could not hold it all, and we had an overflow situation belowdecks, as they say. So plan around these kinds of inevitabilities and make sure that even the smallest system variations are accounted for and understood. Do not let anything questionable go unaddressed, as it may grow from a small issue to a large, complicated disaster. Keep the three Ps in mind, and you’ll see that this is an extraordinary hobby with tremendous benefits for individual hobbyists, their families, and society as a whole. If you are focused and in it for the long haul, you can absolutely enjoy success. Thank you for the love and support, and we hope to inspire many more hobbyists and share this fascinating pursuit with the world. R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

STAINED GLASS CHALICE ERIC ARNELL

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

he Lucky Corals Stained Glass Chalice is a unique and brightly colored Oxypora sp. chalice. This specimen was acquired from a local reefer in 2022, who’d had it for approximately a year in his own aquarium. The coral’s origin prior to that time is unknown. This colony came to us with better than usual color variation and intensity compared to typical Oxypora corals. Since I’d had good luck with these chalices in the past, and the Stained Glass Chalice was so unique and colorful, I was happy to add it to my coral farm. In my earlier experiences with chalice corals, I’d learned some important lessons about their care. The most important was not to place them in too much light. Years ago, when I was just starting out in the hobby, I bleached my first several chalices. Based on this hard-earned wisdom, I placed the chalice in a system for new corals where it sat for months tucked away in a dim 30 PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) corner with medium-low flow. The aquarium is lit by several brands of LED lights, creating a blueishwhite spectrum. I maintain roughly natural seawater parameters except nitrate, which ranges between 15 and 25 ppm. Alkalinity is around 8.0 dKH. After 3 to 4 months, I took note of how impressively this chalice had colored up. The intensity of the colors had improved, and several new colors had appeared. The chalice had done well under very low PAR, and during this time, I never directly fed it. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

I then decided to try placing the chalice in a more visible location so I could really enjoy it. The new location received roughly 70 PAR of the same blueish-white spectrum. The chalice sat in its new location under medium flow and continued to thrive despite several calcium and alkalinity fluctuations. Now in its higher PAR location, the chalice is fed several times a month with a pinch of Reef-Roids while the flow pumps are switched off. The Stained Glass Chalice hasn’t shown any aggression toward nearby corals nor extended any sweeper tentacles. With the chalice growing and in good health, I wanted to make frags of this amazing coral available to more hobbyists. Using a freshly cleaned and disinfected band saw, I fragged about 25 percent of the colony. Much to my relief, the mother colony and all the frags survived. I’ve made frags of the Stained Glass Chalice on three occasions now with the same good results. Thus far, the growth of this chalice has been slow, and I’m hoping the growth rate increases once the chalice encrusts more fully. The Lucky Corals Stained Glass Chalice is a beautiful example of a multicolored Oxypora chalice. While Oxypora are known for their vivid colors, it’s rare to see a specimen with such a unique color pattern. In my experience with keeping and growing this coral, it’s been a hardy and adaptable strain. If you’re into unique and rare chalice corals, the Stained-Glass Chalice would be a great addition to your collection. R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

CYANOBACTERIA: The Nightmare Nuisance

ANDRE LAVAREDA Images by author except as noted

hen cyanobacteria appear, it’s often difficult to grasp why the outbreak is occurring and how to get rid of it. Before we dive into that, though, it’s important to understand what cyanobacteria are.

As the name implies, and even though many of us think of this nuisance as algae because of its growth form, cyanobacteria are indeed bacteria. Cyanobacteria grow in our aquariums because of an imbalance between nutrients, persistent high organic levels, a lack of biodiversity or water flow, or some destabilization of the biological system, such as a reduction in filter efficacy. Sometimes they can even appear in stable tanks that have been set up for years when changes occur that impact the biological processes of the aquarium. TROUBLESHOOTING Filtration Whether we’re addressing a cyano outbreak in a new or a mature tank, it’s important to pay particular attention to nutrient import and export, the efficiency of the system’s filtration, and maintenance protocols and scheduling. As a first step, test for nutrient levels and address any excesses through increased water changes. Thoroughly clean all the filter components and check to see if a filtration upgrade is necessary. In a tank

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

Poorly maintained equipment can contribute to cyano outbreaks. | Image by Adam Mullins

The lighting on my display is set to offer the best possible spectrum for coral growth and health. If I want to see the colors pop, I add actinics for temporary viewing.

with high nitrate and phosphate levels and without much biodiversity, some cyanobacteria are nearly a certainty. And while a higher level of biodiversity (mature rock, live corals, macroalgae, or other invertebrates that consume excess nutrients) may inhibit the rampant growth of this bacteria, you only have to overfeed, miss a water change, or fail to change out filter socks to find that the purple nightmare has gained a foothold. Flow The next areas of focus in this battle are system turnover and in-tank water flow. For SPS (small-polyp stony) coral tanks, aim for combined turnover/flow rates (return pump output plus in-tank circulation pump output) of 40 times per hour or more; dedicated Acropora tanks can easily support 80 times per hour. If you have a mixed or LPS (large-polyp stony) coral tank, I’d recommend a 30 to 40 times turnover/flow rate but not much more. Next, check the positioning of flow pumps and try to eliminate low-flow areas or dead spots. This is important because cyano typically start growing in low-flow and detritus-rich areas of reef tanks. Light

Areas with low flow are more likely to accumulate detritus and provide the ideal environment for cyanobacteria to take hold.

Light plays an important role in fighting cyano. When faced with cyano growth, i n a p p ro p r i a te l i g h ti n g decisions can exacerbate the problem. In the reef hobby, we tend to overemphasize the blue and UV spectra for aesthetic reasons while neglecting the red, green, and white spectra. But solely driving the blue and UV spectra can inadvertently tip the scales in favor of cyano. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Even though cyano can thrive under various spectra, blue and UV-dominant lighting fails to provide the optimal spectrum for algae and corals to effectively compete with cyano to uptake available nutrients in the tank. This is especially critical in environments with low biodiversity, minimal competing algae, limited coral stock, and excess nutrients. Ideally, we should adjust our lighting to the spectrum that best encourages nutrient uptake by corals and algae. I set my blues at full intensity and adjust the white channel to 40 to 60 percent. Then I adjust the photoperiod according to how the corals react. This strategy allows me to achieve the desired growth and color of my corals while discouraging the proliferation of cyano in the tank. Once filtration, flow, and lighting have been addressed, it’s time to consider additional ways to combat any nutrient imbalances. METHODS FOR SUCCESS Carbon dosing, GFO (granular ferric oxide), water changes, and the introduction of macro- and microalgae filtration are the most common ways to rid a tank of cyano by promoting stabilization of the tank at lower nutrient levels. However, in extreme cases, you may need a product like Chemiclean from Boyd Enterprises or Red Cyano RX from Blue Life. These products will quickly and effectively kill off the cyano in a system but are not long-term solutions. Whatever imbalance caused the cyano to bloom in the first place still remains and must be corrected to ensure cyanobacteria do not return. Carbon Dosing Carbon dosing is an effective method of fighting cyano. By adding a carbon source like NitraPhos Minus from Aquaforest, we can stimulate the growth of beneficial bacteria to compete directly with the cyano by increasing their uptake of nitrate and phosphate. In some cases, it may be so effective that phosphate drops to an undetectable level. With this method, we are increasing bacterial competitors for the same nutrients that the cyano use. If carbon dosing doesn't seem to resolve the cyano issue and you're still adding a carbon source, be cautious, as this can make the problem worse. Cyano can thrive with minimal light, nutrients, and carbon. Maintaining a balance between carbon, phosphate, and nitrate is crucial. Avoid using amino acids and supplements at this point, as they provide carbohydrates that can fuel cyano growth.

NitraPhos Minus is one of many available solutions that will stimulate the growth of beneficial bacteria in your system.

www.reefhobbyistmagazine.com

If the levels of macronutr ie nts are balanced and the cyano persist, it’s time to check trace elements. Normally, we don’t pay much attention to

GFO, such as PhosBan from Two Little Fishies, can be used in a fluidized reactor to effectively adsorb phosphate.

micronutrients, but to overcome this stubborn nuisance, details can be important. For example, iron is a critical micronutrient for cyano growth. Trace elements like potassium, molybdenum, and zinc are used by bacteria for metabolism, and when you stimulate bacterial growth to reduce nitrate and phosphate, you need to check and balance micronutrient levels too. Regular ICP tests are invaluable for this purpose. Water Changes and GFO Water changes are very important in this battle. However, it’s critical to understand their ramifications. Water changes reduce available organic nutrients that the cyano need, but they also add new trace elements that the bacteria in the filter system and the cyano will use for growth. So it’s very important to manually remove the cyano while doing water changes and keep lighting, flow, and filtration at optimal levels. GFO, such as PhosBan from Two Little Fishies or Rowaphos from D&D, is media that reacts with the water to adsorb phosphate. This option is useful when you are dealing with high phosphate rather than high nitrate. GFO should not be used with carbon dosing since both reduce phosphate. CONCLUSION Dealing with cyano requires a strategic approach based on a thorough understanding of cyanobacteria and your system’s environmental imbalances and deficiencies. We only need to understand the challenge and keep all the parameters and things that we can control controlled. And finally, be patient. Even once you have corrected the issues that led to the cyano in the first place, it will take a while to die out and will compete for every available nutrient in a bid for survival. Good luck, and I hope your purple nightmares will be short and easily conquered. R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine