Resorts Magazine 51

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London P ari s Astana Almaty Shymkent Dushanbe Uzbekist an K yrg yzsta n

Buddha-Bar Hotel, Paris

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Hotel Kainar, Shymkent

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Burana Tower, Kyrgyzstan

A

EDITORIAL Ovidio Guaita, Editor-in-Chief

Song-kul Lake, Kyrgyzstan

n exclusive tent in the Tajik steep at 3000 meters asl has little and a lot at the same time. It is certainly not luxury in its essence but is exclusive because very few travelers venture out into these regions of Central Asia. Hence a place for real travelers.

We went to see just what these distant lands - since ancient times frequented by merchants and nomads - have to offer. Along here passed the Silk Road, and here today are intertwined pathways of petroleum (mainly in Kazakhstan). The yurts of nomadic herders are flanked by Soviet-style apartment buildings and stylish modern towers with classy international hotels.

A land of contrasts that fascinates and intrigues, leaving room for the imagination.

We propose a discovery trip that does not leave out the classic destinations such as Uzbekistan and then suggest novel stop-offs scattered among modern capitals and the ancient caravanserais.

Go beyond your expectations with Resorts Magazine!

CONTENTS

26 32 36

TOP 10 cruises

CITY HOTEL O The Halkin by COM

CITY HOTEL Paris Buddha-Bar Hotel,

CONTENTS

CENTRAL ASIA exclusive

KAZAKHSTAN

56 64 72 76

RADISSON Astana

N THE RITZ-CARLTO Almaty

KAINAR HOTEL Shymkent

ALMATY CITY TOUR stan discovering Kazakh

CENTRAL ASIA exclusive

CONTENTS TAJIKISTAN

78 84 88

TAJIKISTAN e Great found a wife where Alexander th

SERENA HOTEL Dushambe

PAMIR SILK trekking and more

CONTENTS

CENTRAL ASIA exclusive

90 98 106

UZBEKISTAN ancient legend the fascination of an

KYRGYZSTAN ong the Silk Road in the mountains al

AIR ASTANA Road in flight on the Silk

CONTENTS

114

Villa a Sorrento.

RM

lifeStyle

ional Realty SOTHEBY’S Internat ties for sale best Italian proper

www.palidano.com

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D E S T I N A T I O N S

2013

HOTEL COLONIALI

Questa directory offre uno strumento aggiornato e ragionato sulle possibili destinazioni per chi vuole soggiornare in città o nelle vicinanze.

Perché a volte non è solo questione di prezzo ma di attenzione al dettaglio, passione e gusto. E tra le soluzioni proposte non mancano appunto le sorprese.

T op 100 P l aces t o St ay i n

Flor en ce

2013

PP

This directory offers an annotated and up-todate instrument for the possible destinations for those who want to stay in the city or nearby. This because sometimes it is not only a question of price but rather attention to detail, passion and taste. Among the solutions proposed, surprises are not missing.

Places to Stay in Florence & Nearby

HOTEL COLONIALI

L’autore, Paolo Gerbaldo, è inviato di Resorts Magazine.

Top 100

Top 100

Dal Settecento fino alla seconda guerra mondiale. Due secoli di lusso ai tropici, tra ventilatori a pale, verande, tè pomeridiani e stuoli di servitori. Molti in Asia ma anche nelle colonie africane e in Centro America.

Una storia affascinante di lungimiranti investitori, pionieri e avventurieri costellata di nomi eccellenti come Raffles, Peninsula e Strand. Questa directory ci mostra i migliori esempi sopravvissuti dove sperimentare esperienze e atmosfere d’altri tempi.

Top 100

W O R L D ’ S

Top 100

T H E

PalidanoPress

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and nearb y PalidanoPress

RESORTS MAGAZINE

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D E S T I N A T I O N S

X, n. 51 September 2014

Editor-in-Chief Ovidio Guaita Senior Editor Lawrence Taylor Contributors Elsa Bozzaotra, Maria Coscarelli, Paola Di Girolamo, Marco Galli, Paolo Gerbaldo, Alessandra Jovinelli, Giuseppe Lai, Daniela Libero, Pamela McCourt Francescone, Hasrudin Tazep Photos Ovidio Guaita, Lawrence Taylor, Roberto Sessoli , Angelo Tondini, Slam Hoja and published hotels and resorts Video for iPad and iPhone app Roberto Sessoli Graphic Design Niccolò Angeli www.niccoloangeli.com Layout Graphic Department Palidano Press IT Manager Riccardo Casano www.riccardocasano.com Public Relations Daniela Libero Subscriptions (12 issues per year) Europe 300 € Rest of the world 350 € Publisher PalidanoPress 3 More London Riverside - SE1 2RE London US Office 1133 Broadway, Suite 708 - New York, NY 10010 www.palidano.com monthly publication © 2014 Palidano Press Ltd All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

ISSN 2043-6629 www.resorts.it

Cover: Buddha-Bar Hotel, Paris; right: a wall in Kazakhstan.

Our correspondents All resorts published are choosen by the editorial staff and tested by our journalists-inspectors.

OVIDIO GUAITA In Kazakhstan, on the Silk Road now the Oil Road.

LAWRENCE TAYLOR In Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in the footsteps of Alexander the Great.

PAOLO GERBALDO Paolo surprises us with Oriental Paris, an unusual jewel.

MARIA COSCARELLI Maria offers us a review of the best cruise ships.

ELSA BOZZAOTRA In Uzbekistan, discovering an enchanting country.

MARCO GALLI The best Italian properties for sale at Sotheby’s.

London United Kingdom

32 Paris France

36

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our destinations Astana

Kazakhstan

56 Almaty

Kazakhstan

64

Bishkek

Kyrgyzstan

100

Dushanbe

Shymkent

Tajikistan

Kazakhstan

85

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Colombo Da Nang Dubai Ras Al Khaimah Santiago Atacama Courchevel Zermatt Aosta Venezia

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Saint Petersburg Tbilisi Andermatt Genève Lausanne Ascona Weggis Zürich Lugano Oberlech

Burj Al Arab, Dubai

Saint Petersburg Tbilisi Andermatt Genève Lausanne Ascona Lugano Weggis Zürich Oberlech Punta Ala

The >Chedi, Andermatt

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Colombo Da Nang Dubai Ras Al Khaimah Santiago Atacama Courchevel Zermatt Aosta Venezia

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N. 49 LUGLIO 2014

Mi la no Tal l in Vil ni us Ri ga S ai nt -Tr op ez S ard eg na C osta N avari n o 49 8

N ew Yo rk Mi la no C ann e s Za da r Sa li na Fi ren ze

Salamanca Sardegna London Vitznau Baja California Banff Borobudur

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Su Cologone, Sardegna

Villa Tolomei, Firenze

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Antigua Paris Milano Venezia La Paz Sucre Paro Punakha Thimphu Val d’Isère

N. 47 MAY 2014

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Antigua Paris Milano Venezia La Paz Sucre Paro Punakha Thimphu Val d’Isère

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Song Saa Private Island, Sihanoukville

TOP 10 | CRUISES

Top

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10 cruises

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your luggage h c u to to g in v a h r e nev

Maria Coscarelli

loyd Cruises)) 1. Europa (Hapag-L (Crystal Cruises) 2. Crystal Serenity ilversea) 3. Silver Shadow (S rill Class (Canard) 4. Queen Mary II G (Seabourn) 5. Seabourn Legend Cloud Cruises) 6. Sea Cloud II (Sea -Lloyd Cruises) 7. Hanseatic (Hapag ses) ent Seven Seas Crui eg (R r ge ya Vo as Se 8. Seven ternational Cruises) In n ea rid eb (H t iri 9. Hebridean Sp Dream Yacht Club) ea (S II am re aD Se .

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TOP 10 | CRUISES

F

to a conference on rom five-star service ls, capable is short. Sailing ships and modern vesse ce tan e dis arde technologies the stars in the sky th ly, secure with avant-g ral tu na d, an t for m co of giving maximum g sailing experience. din an tst ou an er off to tion matters up to a t matter. The destina no es th do e ng alle ch difference, together wi Large or small the isine are what make the s cu itie the tiv d ac an e ard vic bo ser on e l bored and the certain point. Th fee r ve ne st mu s est ival. board. Gu ons in the ports of arr the suites available on ating with the excursi ern alt er, oth the er aft gant stay on come one clusive service; an ele -in all ; ge ga lug ur yo h forgettable trip.

Never having to touc rtainly affords an un ce ips sh e es th of e , on the seas of the world tion. na sti de ur yo er tev Wha

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e d i w d l r o W s t r o s e R 0 0 1 Top

51 Amanwana ldives at Reethi Rah Ma ly On e& 52 Amansara On 1 aavaru ala Estate, Bali Resort at Landaa Gir ns aso Se ur 53 Como Shambh Fo 2 i aw gk Lan t ce uri sor 54 Shanti Ma Four Seasons Re 3 ence yal Mirage, The Resid Pangkor Laut at s ate Est e 55 One&Only Ro Th 4 Palace 56 Anassa Taj Umaid Bhawan 5 Jimbaran Bay at li Ba ves Rangali Island t sor Re ns 57 Conrad Maldi Four Seaso 6 s ve ldi Ma a, Sp & i Resort 58 Reid's Palace Shangri-la's Villingil 7 e vat Pri nd Isla 59 Amanpulo FrĂŠgate 8 at Sayan li Ba e t sor Re ns aso 60 Grande Roch Four Se 9 try Hotel un Co nd rla o Ku jiw an 61 10 Am raa Hu da Ku at ean Club Resort 62 One&Only Oc 11 Four Seasons s ve ldi Ma a, s sort and Sp 63 Aman-i-Kha 12 Taj Exotica Re z ga Ra d Ba t sor Re 64 Amankora d 13 Gran Resort a Sp & lf Go ra 65 Suvretta House rdu 14 Ve eirah yas ala Him 66 Madinat Jum 15 Ananda in the lla we 67 Aman 16 Amanusa du Cap Ferrat Resort Chiang Mai ns aso 68 Grand Hotel Se ur Fo 17 Resort Nevis 69 Four Seasons 18 Il Salviatino mbo Lodge t, Bali 70 Singita Lebo 19 Bulgari Resor e & Spa 71 The Nam Hai 20 Al Areen Palac Zanzibar e lac 72 The Residence 21 Taj Lake Pa jvilas 73 Sandy Lane 22 The Oberoi Ra mp Golden Triangle Ca ted Ten ns aso 74 Blancaneaux 23 Four Se Spa rr Al Jissah Resort & gh ba 75 Shangri-la's Ba 24 Aman Lodge 76 Amankila 25 Sabi Sabi Earth Lijiang y Ca 77 Banyan Tree t rro 26 Pa sort & Spa Re e lac et Phuk 78 Blue Pa 27 Banyan Tree Palm e Th ly On 79 One& 28 The Legian i a Ma yar g an ian 80 Am 29 The Chedi Ch Tunis Resort Bora Bora ns aso 81 The Residence Se ur Fo a 30 Sayang Resort & Sp sa Ra 's -la gri an Sh 82 31 Amandari rtesin scat 83 Hotel Finca Co 32 The Chedi Mu ita ah An at s den-Roc tiu Resort Mauri 84 Hotel du Cap-E 33 Four Seasons 85 Le Touessrok 34 Cheval Blanc lle Ga ess rtr 86 Soneva Fushi 35 The Fo iera Maya es ell ych Se e Tre 87 The Tides Riv an 36 Bany Country Estate au uh watu 88 Whareka 37 Alila Villas Ulu es ell Seych 89 Muse 38 Four Seasons Ringha hl Hasheesh Sa i ero 90 Banyan Tree Ob e Th 39 ele ch Mi n e Sa lac Pa 91 Villa 40 Beau-Rivage sert Resort & Spa De on t cti sor lle Re Co un ry ch xu 92 Fu 41 Al Maha, a Lu roa Kia 93 42 Palazzo Sasso oon Resort and Spa aivilas 94 Bora Bora Lag 43 The Oberoi Ud h Van Bay cil 95 Six Senses Nin 44 The Oberoi Ce o 96 MesaStila 45 Hotel Splendid try Club Sanya un Co & tel Ho e pir 97 Banyan Tree 46 The Em ce rsa 98 Palazzo Ve 47 Amanpuri urice 99 K Club 48 Le Prince Ma tal Carlton Cannes e dg Lo i en Sw 100 InterContinen a git 49 Sin Resort & Spa 50 Cuisinart Golf

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CITY HOTEL | THE HALKIN BY COMO

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Elsa Bozzaotra

O M O C y b n i k l The Ha a peaceful nest

ar t t in th e ve r y h e u b le ib d e cr in I t se e m s e ac e fu l t ce n te r li e s a p n ra b vi ’s n o d n o f Lo es e e le g an t e d if ic th g n o am d se o n e st e n cl n e ig h b o r h o o d . o f th e B e lg ra vi a

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T CITY HOTEL | THE HALKIN BY COMO

merous MO, boasting nu he Halkin by CO taste for the

lit y whereby the ita sp ho r fo a ul rm w fo the ingredients awards, offers a ne xury. There are all lu ed at rst de un with out. The service, essential merges ler cannot do with ve tra y ur the nt Ce t irs impeccable and that the Twenty-F essional staff, is of pr the d an d g an un n yo sig rary de entrusted to a zy. The contempo r, co co d dé an g ian in As lax of re me touches atmosphere so th wi d he 41 ric e rn th ings, en elements which tu func tional furnish ality. A cocktail of qu present gh re hi rt fo eir m th r co fo d t stand ou tranquilit y an e er wh at tre re a into rooms and suites rience for guests. pe ex e em pr the su reeable sensations a crescendo of ag e lik is l te Ho n lki restaurant. In a Staying at the Ha éâtre: the Ametsa th e-d up ts the co al fin ikel Sorazy conver culminating ina e-M ichelin-star M on ne e isi th , cu ce ue en sq bi e gurus of Ba th highly- chic am c za Ar na Ele the Basque M ari and tasty solutions of teachings of Juan e th e er wh ns io mposit eative fantasy, into impressive co ern style. The cr od m a in d te re terp oduc ts and an tradition are rein the local fresh pr ts, ien A ed gr in d te phisticated menu. the carefully selec s concur with a so ne wi rb pe ue su sq a Ba to of er in excellent choice ges a simple dinn ments which chan ele of d en bl ct rfe pe experience.

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INFO HOTEL MO

THE HALKIN BY CO London, UK

ls.com

www.comohote

s 19 Rooms 22 - Suite nts 1 ura sta Re Villas 0 Spa no Children yes tels

Chain COMO Ho Affiliation none Activities sightseeing

73 Score 67 nt me on vir En 99 Design 87 Service 0 10 e Cuisin 69 Health 0 Spa 90 Rooms

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CITY HOTEL | BUDDHA-BAR HOTEL

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Paolo Gerbaldo

l e t o H r a B a Buddh startling visions

th e to n e o f th e h it w lly fu ill sk Li g h t p la ys ag ic al re cr ea ti n g a m , es it su d an ro o m s re tr ea t th at , in e at m ti in n A at m o sp h er e. h u st le aw ay fr o m th e s u s ke ta t, en a mom w h ic h is Pa ri s. ty ci ig b a f o an d b u st le

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H CITY HOTEL | BUDDHA-BAR HOTEL

h么tel particulier, oused in a historic l offers a eenth century, the Buddha-Bar Hote ht eig e e th ospher and the urban mansion of t steeped in the atm en m on s vir en nt ga is made of recoverie sophisticated and ele architectural interior se y en rar int po e em Th nt st. co Ea ion of mysteries of the rare objects, the un of of s on ion ati vis bin ve m ati co , ov and inventions that, drawing an inn otic charm. A taste art in color and ex ls to impress. hospitality, never fai st known for corner of Paris be e th in d ate loc tel, elements are in This boutique ho ecise. The different pr d an d re su ea m r is th the tone of the shopping, the d茅co ht plays skillfully wi Lig re. ca this e m tre ex e trait prevalent in fact combined with ical atmosphere: th ag m a stle bu ng d ati an cre e re m the hustl rooms and suites, t, takes us away fro en om m a in at, th intimate retreat is Paris. restaurant, of a big city which Hotel is definitely its ar -B ha dd Bu e th oose veral options A good reason to ch chef Rougui Dia. Se ive ut ec ex e th to sted een a measured Le Vraymonde, entru ers a choice betw off at th u an m a und ne celebrates a are structured aro ht desserts. The cuisi eig d an s se ur co ain m hes prepared with eight starters, eight iginal and classic dis or e th of ble. on ati et pr the flavors recogniza contemporary inter neglecting to make t ou . th ice wi rv t se bu le s nt ab by impecc unusual ingredie furthered enhanced is t en m on vir en address The appealing tel makes it a new Ho ar -B ha dd Bu of s setting lity of Paris.

The right prestigiou e elite luxury hospita th d re te en dy ea that has alr

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INFO HOTEL TEL PARIS

BUDDHA-BAR HO Paris, France

rhotelparis.com

www.buddhaba

s 19 Rooms 37 - Suite nts 1 ura sta Re Villas 0 Spa Studio Spa Children yes r Hotel Collection Chain Buddha-Ba d Boutique rre fe Pre Affiliation Activities sightseeing 77 Score 68 nt me on Envir 86 Design 80 Service 80 Cuisine 66 Health 74 Spa 87 Rooms

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S P E C I A L

C E N T R A L

A S I A

A place for real travelers.

We went to see lands since ancient times frequented by merchants and travelers and

CENTRAL crossed by great leaders like Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan.

ASIA our correspondents flew with

SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

Along here passed the Silk Road, and here today are intertwined pathways of petroleum.

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A land of contrasts that fascinates and intrigues, leaving room for the imagination.

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Ovidio Guaita

Kazakhstan from silk to oil

Known for its oil and the futuristic new capital of Astana, Kazakhstan is the largest country in the world without access to the sea as the Caspian is a lake.

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SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

It is only with the establishment of the Silk Road that the populations of this huge region became settled. Ethnic Turks and Mongols, they converted to Islam in the ninth century and were later invaded by the Mongols in the thirteenth century.

However, it was only in the second half of the fifteenth century the Kazakhs gathered in a state made up of various khanates. The influence of the khans still remained during the invasions that followed. From the end of the eighteenth century the influence of the Russian Empire intensified and in 1820 annexation

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began. The Russian presence remained with the Soviets until independence in 1991.

Almaty was once known as Alma Ata, a name meaning “the place of apples�, and there are a lot of them in the summer.

Dominated by high mountains that delimit its expansion,

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SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

all in all it is a pleasant city. It was long the capital until it was decided that the orographic limits ( the mountains) and the geographical ones (it is located in the extreme south to the border with Kyrgyzstan) were such as to make it necessary to move the capital to the center of the country. Hence for the small town of Astana a futuristic expansion plan was studied, and it will only see its conclusion in 2030.

With the works of Kisho Kurokawa and Norman Forster, the new capital is being transformed into an ideal city - ecological, monumental but humane

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and surrounded by greenery. Already today a visit is surprising for the majestic proportions.

But in Kazakhstan the past and future coexist: palaces and towers of glass and concrete flank mausoleums and mosques,Orthodox cathedrals and synagogues especially in the region of Shymkent, where one of the routes of the Silk Road passed.

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SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

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Ovidio Guaita

Astana a new “ideal city”

The Presidential Palace is as large as St. Peter’s in Rome (and looks like it too). Today, 17 years after its reestablishment, the new capital surprises Kazakhs and foreigners. And it wants to be the country’s image.

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SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

With the City Tours guide we went to explore the new capital. Fully designed, the result of an ambitious thirtyyear urban development plan, it reflects the image of a country projected into the future.

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The styles are mixed, ranging from Oriental to Western.

Very green and colorful expanses of flowers of every kind that paint the squares and avenues.

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Ovidio Guaita

Radisson Hotel, Astana an Italian in Astana

In a tower of steel and glass, the first five-star of the new Kazakh capital is renewed with a great Italian restaurant, ready for the new challenges of an increasingly monumental capital.

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SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

W

e arrive at dawn with clear skies and a light breeze. The absence of traffic reduces travel time, and in a moment we are at the hotel. Because of our jetlag, we are not sleepy in the least so we decide to try the gym, which is located in the adjacent tower and reached by way of a tunnel. Definitely one of the largest and best-equipped we have ever used during the trip. In fact, it is a public gym open to hotel guests. Whatever the case, it is a strong point among the services offered.

The rooms are well soundproofed so rest is assured. Wifi is free as in all of Kazakhstan. The dĂŠcor of the public areas is classic while that of the rooms is contemporary in the style of a business hotel. Breakfast is good with everything international European guests expect. For dinner, the formal Italian restaurant, Capri, surprises us. We tried two classics: lasagna and linguine with pesto alla genovese. Both dishes were a pleasant revelation, very close to the Italian tradition (local ingredients permitting). For fans there is a brief but carefully-assembled Wine List.

The hotel extends upward so the view, while varying depending on the category of the rooms - is always exceptional.

Recently, new properties have been added to the list of fivestar hotels available to demanding guests in the capital, but the Radisson is a classic and always very popular.

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INFO HOTEL RADISSON HOTEL, ASTANA Astana, Kazakhstan www.radissonblu.com Rooms 170 - Suites 11 Villas 0 - Restaurants 2 Spa yes Children yes Chain Radisson Affiliation none Activities sightseeing 75 Score Environment 70 72 Design 75 Service 81 Cuisine 80 Health 70 Spa 78 Rooms

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Ovidio Guaita

Almaty the place of apples

There are many churches for a Muslim country. Sign of civility and tolerance. Seduced and abandoned by the power that has preferred the more central Astana, Almaty plays the card of the history.

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SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

T o o cl o se to t h e bo rd e r f or a c a p it a l, Almaty, h o w e ve r, e n joys a s p le nd id v ie w of th e surro u n di n g mo u n t a ins , p op u la t e d b y co mforta bl e an d n u m e r ou s s k i r e s or t s .

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Churches but also theaters, monuments and ancient quarters. In addition to the ministries and other corridors of power in Soviet-style.

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Ovidio Guaita

The Ritz-Carlton a tower with a view

The Alatau Mountains are the frame for a horizon where the view is always unobstructed.

We are in the tallest and most modern tower in the city. Below we find the most glamorous mall with the best international brands.

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SPECIALE | CENTRO ASIA

T

he Ritz-Carlton in Almaty is not only the best hotel in town. Throughout the country it has no rival.

Perched atop this modern tower, it is now the benchmark for luxury hospitality in Kazakhstan. Crossing its threshold is to put a foot in the new country that the current presidency is designing.

The design is very contemporary even if you recognize traditional motifs - surely, sophisticated, bright, elegant and exclusive. Among the restaurants, Vista, of course, offers a superb panorama and international cuisine with Mediterranean accents without omitting references to traditional cooking. The LT Grill, instead, is the steak house of excellence in the city now. The menu and choice of meat are served by chef Laurent Tourondel in person. The large spa, instead, is signed by Six Senses and available to guests with a structured menu.

If you are thinking of entering the lobby and checking in you are mistaken. We are not in a normal hotel but we are entering in the Esentai Tower. Apartments and offices fill the first floors up to the tenth which is where the hotel begins. So we go up and when the elevator doors open, we are amazed by the view. The city is at our feet. The full-wall windows enchant us. The bustle of the city center, the traffic, the noise all disappear in a sea of light and we almost miss seeing the courteous receptionist awaiting us at the desk.

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INFO HOTEL THE RITZ-CARLTON ALMATY Almaty, Kazakhstan www.ritzcarlton.com Rooms & suites 145 Villas 0 - Restaurants 2 Spa Six Senses Children yes Chain The Ritz-Carlton Affiliation none Activities sightseeing 81 Score Environment 75 90 Design 78 Service 84 Cuisine 78 Health 80 Spa 82 Rooms

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Ovidio Guaita

Shymkent madrasas and mausoleums

To the so uth o f th e c oun t r y, on on e of t h e r out e s of the caravan s tha t c a r r i e d si l k a n d sp i c e s from Ch i n a to Euro p e , n e a r t h e c i t y you w i l l f i n d im portant mauso l eum s a n d m a d r a sa s.

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An ancient land where much remains to be discovered. Its strategic position has always played an important role in the development of the region. Some testimonies to the past have been heavily restored. Maybe not so philological

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but the result is enjoyable and readable even to those who do not have a specific preparation.

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Ovidio Guaita

Kainar Hotel the windy hill

On a hill above the city, a palace-hotel welcomes guests, isolating them in an oasis of peace and tranquility.

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I

n the evening the breeze quickly turns into the wind - enveloping and engaging at the same time. A wind that makes the sky clear and shows the city lit up as it is. Not particularly beautiful, certainly lively and active. The wind of history has swept away a union - along with its legendary Kainar Restaurant that once stood here - that no one really wanted any longer. Tonight, however, the real wind will free us of unwanted thoughts. For a brief but intense moment we are suspended in time. While down below us, daily activities continue to frantically interweave.

The Kainar is an exclusive hotel, however, perhaps in making the architecture in the form of a palace, little hotel details were sacrificed. But these are details. The experience on the whole is remarkable. From the pick-up at the airport to the in-room check-in. Excellent restaurant, great spa, with a fully equipped wellness center. Very inviting indoor pool with city views. If one wants to linger for an after dinner drink, the lounge on the top floor has the best view of the city.

The Kainar is the hotel in Shymkent and one of the best in the south of Kazakhstan. The charming general manager, the young Dina Temirgaliyeva, conducts an orchestra that is working on the movements for a symphony, which is, perhaps, not yet complete, but we found its melody totally charming.

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INFO HOTEL KAINAR HOTEL Shymkent, Kazakhstan www.kainarhotel.kz Rooms 44 - Suites 20 Villas 0 - Restaurants 1 Spa yes Children yes Chain none Affiliation none Activities excursions 77 Score Environment 80 77 Design 78 Service 78 Cuisine 75 Health 75 Spa 77 Rooms

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discovering Kazakhstan

Despite

well-developed

infrastructure, o n e ’s be

traveling

on

own in Kazakhstan can

complicated,

above

all,

due to English, which is still not diffuse. to

entrust

o p - e r a t o r.

It is better then oneself Among

to the

a

tour many

p r e s e n t , C i t y To u r i s t h e m o s t trustwor thy. drivers

and

New guides

vehicles, fluent

in

English and knowledgeable of the territory are their strong points.

It is also quite easy

to book, thanks to an efficient website.

A l m a t y C i t y To u r Baitursynov Street, Astana InterHotel, Almaty 050022

2nd

Floor

+7 (727) 2-900-777 w w w. c i t y - t o u r. k z RESORTS MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

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where Alexander the Great found a wife

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Lawrence Taylor

Tajikistan

Am ong th e descend a n t s of A l e xa n d e r t h e G r e a t a nd Dari us o f Persi a. N ot a p op ul a r c oun t r y b ut certa inl y an i ntri gui ng on e . F r om t h e m oun t a i n s o f the P ami r to the mad r a sa s, m a use ol e um s, m osq u e s a nd pal aces o n the Si l k R oa d .

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Green, very green, with high mountains and large water resources. A country crossed throughout history, left to itself, and then rediscovered. Since independence in 1991 there have been many events leading to the current stability. Here Alexander the Great, during his unstoppable run to the conquest of the known world, took a break and found his wife, as he was fascinated by the enigmatic beauty of the local women.

The culture is similar to that of other regions of Central Asia. Cuisine, music, architecture albeit with different nuances - share motifs of inspiration. On the other hand, ethnic groups

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differ, as already mentioned, and the difference is apparent.

The similarities with the people of Persia are obvious, as are those of the Balkan descendants of Macedonian troops.

Whether you are visiting the country to retrace the ancient caravan routes or to climb the mountains, contact with nature is inevitable. Moving from one area to the next will always lead to crossings and along the valleys, to stop-offs in villages where the dodging populace will observe you with discreet curiosity. The sense of hospitality is ingrained and having overcome the initial suspicion, it is difficult to decline an invitation

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for a tea or even to share a meal. Over a century of Russian rule did not affect traditions and beliefs. The sense of belonging is strong and every Tajik, if able, will endeavour to showcase the best of the country.

Among the centers to visit are Hisor or Hissar, once an independent khanate and also the summer home of the governor of Bukhara. There are the remains of a fortified palace - in particular the front door - heavily restored. Opposite is an important and ancient madrasa. After a five-hour drive from the capital, Dushanbe, you can visit Khujand, one

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of the oldest cities of Central Asia which is also on the Silk Road.

This is a city which was not only rich but also an important cultural center, especially during the Persian period.

In European Tajikistan, the Near and Far East meet on what remains of the caravan routes, which were the Internet of today. On their paths traveled not only goods, but art, culture and religions.

Distant peoples came face to face, and today as yesterday a journey through these mountains is an encounter between East and West.

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Lawrence Taylor

Serena Hotel Dushanbe a Tajik touch

In the city center a cloud of steel and glass gently inlaid envelops the traveler. Immersed and isolated, contemporary and Tajik, the Serena Hotel in Dushanbe puts one at ease.

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T

hey are awaiting us at the entrance as soon as we get out of the car after being picked up at the airport. Gently at attention and formal but friendly, certainly efficient. The receptionists accompany us to our rooms on the seventh floor for check-in. In a moment we have completed checked in formalities. From the large window the eye sweeps first across the hotel’s garden and then the city. A composite profile that consists of a lot of green and low-rise buildings that permits great visibility.

In the rooms, as in public areas,we find are traditional decorative motifs, as is customary in the properties of the chain that always wants to highlight the local culture. In particular, there are colorful decorations on walls and ceilings, carved furniture, colorful fabrics and carpets that contextualize the hotel. Hence guests do not wake up wondering where they are. The brother of Aga Khan, owner of the chain, Prince Amyn Aga Khan, guided the decorative choices of this property which opened in 2011.

The major thoroughfare that runs before the hotel runs right through the heart of the city. It recalls the boulevards of Lisbon and also the Ramblas of Barcelona in form and passers-by. Absolutely inviting for a stroll after dinner at the Rudaki Restaurant ormaybe after a training session at the gym on the top floor, right where the pool is located - the only rooftop pool in the city.

At check-out we find the same friendly efficiency that has characterized our entire stay. Concise and friendly - as you would expect in an exclusive property. We cross the city with its contrasts to arrive at the airport. Slightly chaotic, vague in directions and extemporaneous in procedures. But the new terminal is almost ready and we imagine that it will help to define a new standard of service.

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INFO HOTEL SERENA HOTEL Dushanbe, Tajikistan www.serenahotels.com Rooms 80 - Suites 5 Apartments 10 - Restaurants 2 Spa Maisha Spa Children yes Chain Serena Hotels Affiliation none Activities excursions 79 Score Environment 75 80 Design 88 Service 78 Cuisine 75 Health 77 Spa 80 Rooms

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trekking and more in Kyrgyzstan and Afghanistan

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The speciality of this

tour operator is

indubitably the tours in Pamir, as one would easily guess from the name. The offering is rich and includes visits to the caravanserais, mosques, and madrasas which are still located on the ancient silk road.

It is

brilliantly managed by Shagarf, ex-official of the Soviet Union embassies, polyglot, great traveler and expert on his territory.

However, Pamir Silk also goes to northern Afghanistan - now safe for travelers - up to the center of Mazar-i Sharif, where we find very important monuments.

Pam ir Silk Travel tel. + 992 3522 22277 info@pamirsilk .travel w w w.pamirsilk .travel

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UZBEKISTAN

the fascination of an ancient legend Statesmen like Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Tamerlane have molded its history while Averroae, Al-Khwarizmi (the inventor of Algebra) and Ulugbek (the eminent astronomer) have shaped its culture.

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Elsa Bozzaotra

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The Uzbekis are hardworking people, tightly attached to their traditions and live on agriculture and craftsmanship in accordance with their original values and pace of life.

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W

W

ho has not dreamt at least once of tracing the ancient merchants’ footsteps along the Silk Road, being filled with the intense scents of spices, or of penetrating into the mysteries of Tamerlane’s legendary court? A journey in the places that were once scenes of that legendary world conjure up these magic emotions. A journey in Uzbekistan is like a virtual itinerary backwards in time. A journey that starts in the modern capital, Tashkent, goes across Nineteenth Century Khiva, “the city of clay”, proceeds through the splendid Bukhara of the Sixteenth Century, to reach the zenith in a crescendo of intense emotions with the enticing Samarkanda, chosen

by Tamerlane as the opulent capital of his great empire.

It is here that history and legend merge. Elaborated patterns of multi-colored majolica tiles define the façades of the mausoleums enclosing - like precious cases - the mortal remains of Amir Timur (Tamerlane) and Ulugbek, its notable founders.

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Uzbekistan is a vivacious kaleidoscope of languages and races – Iranian, Turkish, Mongolian. The different origins of the nomadic tribes characterize the beautiful countenance of the fair-skinned women as well as their silky dark hair, wrapped in the traditional scarves.

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Th e s e a re no t o nl y t he st ag es al o n g th e S ilk R oa d, b u t a n enchant ing and evo cat ive tour wh ic h a ll u re s t h e senses: fro m t he rel axing san d-h ued wa ll s of t h e Ichan-K hal a fo r t ress in K hiva to th e c h rom at i c var iat io ns o f t he b l ue and turquoise m a j oli c a s which cover t he nu mero u s madrasah s a n d m os q u es, dow n to t he yel l ow an d green s t re a k s wh i c h st and o u t o n t he p al aces, domes, a n d t h e m i n a ret s. I nt r icate car ving wor k c reates e m b roi d e r i e s o n t he st unning wo o den door s an d col u m n s wh ich sup p o r t t he b u il ding s in a c lear Ara b i a n s t yl e.

A ve r i t a b le t r iu mp h o f b r ig ht co l o r s sur roun d t h e vi s i tor, t h o u g h no t o nl y t ho se o f t he buildin gs a n d t h e i r d e co rat io ns. One is st u nned by th e many RESORTS MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

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These are not only the stages along the Silk Road, but an enchanting and evocative tour which allures the senses.

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col ore d b a z a ars, w here fruit s and sp ices mix in a b la ze of j oyf ul shades and exo t ic scent s.

Th e c u r t a i n draws over o ur jo u r ney bac k wards i n t i m e. The dream o f t his ancie nt legen d n os t a l gi c a l l y fades away in Tashkent, wh ere th e gl or i ou s p a st and t he l ivel y indu st r iousn ess of t h e p re s e nt merg e. But t he sp l endid magic of th is a n c i e nt wor l d st ays in t he hear t fo rever.

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KYRGYZSTAN

in the mountains along the Silk Road A country dominated by greenery, framed by high peaks and dotted with the yurts of Kyrgyz nomads. Crossed by the Silk Road, it has experienced ups and downs and various rulers. A rich history that is reflected in the culture, architecture, languages, and even in the cuisine.

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Lawrence Taylor

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The high mountains and large lakes dominate the geography, making a visit varied. From the ethnographic point of view, Kyrgyz nomads are by far the biggest attraction.

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T

T

he name seems to derive from the Turkish word that indicates forty, like the clans united by the national hero, Manas, to defend the countr y ’s independence in the ninth centur y. The first inhabitants of the region, however, were the Scythians who settled here between the sixth and fifth centuries BC. The area then became part of the Persian Empire until it entered the orbit of the Macedonian rule of Alexander the Great. In the fourth centur y the Turks arrived. Traditionally, the population has been

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The stop in the summer yurts along the path of transhumance in the north of the country is an experience not to be missed. The herds of cattle and horses grazing dot the velvety hills surrounding the tented fields.

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tolerant of different faiths, so much so that in that period Buddhism and Zoroastrianism spread until the Muslim invasions of the eighth century. In 1207, the territor y came under the empire of Genghis Khan.

There followed various invasions until its annexation to the Russian Empire in 1876, a domination that then continued during the Soviet government until independence in 1991.

The caravan routes crossing the countr y with goods from the Orient numbered two. Today not much remains of that period but the few traces are worth seeing. Some are located in the north not far from the capital. Others are near the city of Osh. However, the main reason for a trip to the countr y is undoubtedly nature. The high mountains and RESORTS MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

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Traditionally, the population has been tolerant of different faiths, so much so that in that period Buddhism and Zoroastrianism spread until the Muslim invasions of the eighth century.

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large lakes dominate the geography, making a visit varied. From the ethnographic point of view, Kyrgyz nomads are by far the biggest attraction. The stop in their summer yurts along the path of transhumance in the north of the country is an experience not to be missed. Their herds of cattle and horses grazing dot the velvety hills surrounding the tented fields.

Their skill on horseback surprises, especially that of women and children.

A trip from real travelers - not easy but scalable, also according to one’s tolerance for the altitude and frugal hospitality. An “exclusive” trip because it is outside the big circuits, in places that are still little known. Indubitably a fascinating adventure.

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W

here once caravans with goods from the East bound for the Mediterranean markets transited, today a modern company connects the Caucasian steppes with the capitals of Europe and the Far East.

In Central Asia Air Astana is imposing itself for the network that it has developed and the ser vice it provides.

It has two hubs: one in the new capital Astana and one in Almaty, the former capital. The planes are modern and on board passengers are offered full ser vice even on domestic flights, something which is rare today. In fact, delicious buns are offered along with soft drinks.

We tried the Business Class on the Almaty- Kuala Lumpur flight on August 17. The departure is scheduled for 23.45 and promptly half an hour before boarding begins. We did

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Ovidio Guaita

Air Astana

in flight on the Silk Road

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not take advantage of the common VIP lounge, but those who departs from Astana have available the one reserved for Air Astana passengers, airy and with a great view of the runway. After taking off we are offered cocktails followed by dinner.

The menu was varied as was the wine list.

Entertainment is on the i-Pad. Even though the selection is not particularly large, it does include the most recent films. The staff is friendly and efficient. The seats, while not becoming per fectly horizontal, do have an inclination sufficient for a good night’s sleep. They are increasingly replacing them with full beds. We arrived in Kuala Lumpur early in the morning on time and per fectly rested.

Air Astana is a rapidly expanding company, one to watch as it is able to compete with the big sisters of the Continent.

INFO AIR ASTANA Almaty, Kazakhstan www.airastana.com

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RM RESORTS MAGAZINE

S

life

tyle

In exclusive and charming location,

Location

Sorrento

overlooking the crystal clear sea

Bedrooms

2

of Sorrento, beautiful apartment

Bathroomes

3

finely decorated comprising: three

Interior

280 mq

big halls , two bedrooms and three

Price

15.000.000 euro

bathrooms. A magnificent terrace of 100sqm on the same level with a stunning

Agent

tuscany@sothebysrealty.com

view completes and enhances the property.

1

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Marco Galli

2

From Sorrento to Anacapri, from Lerici to Santa Margherita Ligure passing by Milan. A selection of the best properties for sale.

Sotheby’s International Realty presents on these pages five must-see bargains.

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Beautiful villa with swimming pool set over two floors in Anacapri located within an exclusive residential area in the countryside not far from the famous Blue Grotto and five minutes from the heliport Damecuta . The villa boasts an excellent location with panoramic views and a large private parking area.

Location Anacapri Bedrooms 7 Bathrooms 5 Interior 450 mq Garden 750 mq Price 5.400.000 euro Agent milan@sothebysrealty.com

Boasting panoramic views over the bay and strategically located only 15 minutes walk from the local town of Lerici, this unique residence provides connection with nature and landscape, becoming a blissful oasis in any season of the year.

Location Lerici Bedrooms 4 Bathrooms 3 Interior 300 mq Price â‚Ź 5.250.000 euro Agent milan@sothebysrealty.com

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In 1700s building, beautifully renovated in the common areas, apartment of 320 sqm plus charming balconies. The property enjoys unique and exclusive views of the Basilica of St Nazaire and gardens.

Inside, the elegant quality materials make the unit very valuable.

Quadruple exposure, very quiet and bright. Parking.

Location Milano Bedrooms 4 Bathrooms 5 Balconies 5 Interior 320 mq Price 3.900.000 euro Agent milan@sothebysrealty.com

Magnificent villa with panoramic vistas between Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino. This one-of-a-kind property enjoys a privileged view over the bay of Santa Margherita Ligure and is surrounded by a lush garden of 20,000 square meters overlooking the sea. The main villa, which embodies the typical style of the Portofino Riviera, has recently been renovated.

Location Santa Margherita Bedrooms 6 Bathrooms 5 Interior 300 mq Terrace 20.000 mq Price upon request Agent milan@sothebysrealty.com

Ligure

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