Level 3 Techniques based on the Natural world Rebecca Mclean
Pin-hole Photography
This is my negative original photograph that I took using my own pinhole camera that I made. The exposure time was 30 seconds which was too long as it was outside. To make sure that it is not over exposed again I will change it to 20 seconds.
This is my positive edited photograph. I used photoshop and inverted the photo so to see whether or not it would make it clearer.
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To take these photographs I used the pinhole camera as shown above. Firstly I cut the top off of a standard drinks can with a can opener and ensured that the edge was smooth. I then cut a piece of black card to fit around the entire circumference until half way down of the can and then wrapped around so it was relatively tight. To stop it from coming off I placed a layer of Black tape around it and over the top. This black tape along with the card stops any white light from getting into the can when I have light sensitive photo paper in there as it would damage the paper and ruin my photograph. After I had done this I took a pin and pushed it through the side about half way up so that is covered by the card lid. When exposed, the small hole will allow just the right amount of light to enter the can and affect the paper. The process of developing the photographs is simple. You remove the paper in a dark room with only red light and then use chemicals to develop the image that you choose.
Positive Negative
Solargraphy “Solargraphy is the art of pinhole photography and a part of Space Art, too. Solarigraphics or solargraphs are pinhole photographs taken with a lensless pinhole camera with a long exposure. By doing so the invisible movements of the Sun can be made visible in landscapes.� I created these photographs by placing a small piece of light sensitive, photographic paper into a canister. To ensure that no light entered the canister I did this in the dark room with only a red light on and also placed a thick piece of black tape around the hole and lid for extra ensurance. I then went on to find a specifc place that I could leave my solarpraphy canister to allow the light to enter. This location had to br outside with nothing obscuring it’s view of the sky. Once I had found the right location I taped the canister down so that it would not move and therefore possibly ruin the overall outcome. I left the canister outside in this spot for a week in order for it to pick up the trails of the sun, I found this length of time to be sufficient. After the week had passed I replaced the tape over the hole and brought it back to school in order for it to be developed and scanned into the computer. The positive image shown on the left is the original image that I gained from it. however, I then went on to invert the photograph in order to make it a negative version which shows all of the details more clearly.
Photograms My photograms were taken in the dark room at school. I worked with a red light so that no white light would not damage the photographic, light sensitive paper. In preparation for this, I gathered together some objects that I found interesting and that I thought would give a good effect when it had been developed. In the dark room there are stations in which there is an enlarger with a white light and a gaurd on top of it. I placed my light sensitive paper underneath it with the gaurd closed. The objects that I’d chosen were then placed on top in an arrangement that I thought was suitable. To link in with my theme of ‘the natural world’ I used objects such as leaves and pinecones to block the light. After that I removed the guard for exactly four seconds before replacing it as any longer would not have given the exact effect that I wanted. The photograms then went on to be developed and then uploaded onto the computer. To give the photograms an alternative look I used photoshop to invert them and make them positive. My favourite photogram is the one with the pinecone because it came out the best, in my opinion.
Cropping an Image
Mirroring an Image I chose an imagine that I thought would be suitable. I started by cropping it so that the main focus was at the corner. I then copy and pasted the image and alined it with the original. To get the ‘mirrored’ effect I flipped it horizontally and alined it again. At this point I had completed the top half of the image shown below. I then grouped the top two photos and again copy and pasted both photographs and did the same process as the top images, however, this time I flipped itvertically. Finally, I alined it to create the effect shown below.
C y a n o t y p e
PlatinumToning
I n f a r r e d
Colour Overlaying
To create these effects I used photoshops ‘colour overlay’. There to create different effects. The specific “blend modes” that I cho do these edits I ensured that my original photograph was in black changed. I then selected the specific opacity that I wanted the co because it was not too harsh on the images that they would no long natural way.
are many different colours and gradients to choose from in order ose were: Multiply, Lighten, Colour Burn and finally, Overlay. To k and white so that the none of the colours would be distorted or olour overlay to be, which was 64%. I chose this specific opacity ger stand out, but instead complemented them in a more subtle and
Gradient Overlay
Pattern Overlay
Black And White
Inve
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Magenta Filter
E x t r u d e
Emboss
Manual Edits
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Using different coloured Sharpie pens, I outlined certain parts of the photograph to empasise them and make them stand out due to ther contrast between light and dark colours.
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