101-L-11-h

1111- diM+ksa dh fÁfVa fÁfVax rFkk fQfuf” fQfuf”akx (PRINTING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES) igys ikB esa jaxkbZ ls igys dh tkus okyh izfØ;kvksa dk v/;;u fd;k x;k] vc ge vU; nks egRoiw.kZ fo”ks"krk,sa tksM+us okyh izfØ;kvksa vFkkZr diM+s dh fizfVax rFkk fQfuf”kax ds fo"k; dk vxys 2 ikBksa esa v/;;u djsaxsA vxyk ikB tks bl bdkbZ dk vafre ikB gS] ge diM+s /kksus rFkk jxM+us ij jaxksa ds iDdk gksus ds fy, ifj{k.kksa ij /;ku nsxsaA

1111-0 mís”; bl ikB dk v/;;u djus ds Ik”pkr~ vki dks fuEufyf[kr ds ckjs esa tkudkjh izkIr gksxh% • diM+k fizfVax dk bfrgkl • diM+k fizafVax dh eq[; izfØ;k,sa • diM+k fQfuf”akx ds fy, iz;ksx esas vkus okyh fof/k;ka • diM+k fQfuf”kax ds iz;ksx esa vkus okys fofHkUu izdkj

1111-1 ÁLrkouk diM+s rS;kj djus ds fy, fizafVax rFkk fQfuaf”akx nks egRoiw.kZ izfØ;k;sa gS tks diM+s dh xq.koRrk c<+krh gSA bl ikB esa ge bu nksuksa izfØ;kvksa ds fofHkUu –f’Vdks.kksa ij fopkj djsaxsA fizaV fd;k gqvk gksrk gSA jaxkbZ ds foijhr tgka lkjk diM+k ;k vf/kdka”k Hkkx ¼tSls VkbZ MkbZ½ dks MkbZckFk esa Mqcks;k tkrk gS] fizfVaax jax ;k jaxnzO; dk diM+s ij fMtkbu ;k uewuk cukus dk LFkkfud iz;ksx gS blds foijhr lkekU; jaxkbZ esa jax ds ?kksy dk iz;ksx gksrk gS tcfd fizfVax esa jax dk xk<+k isLV iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gS bldks le>us ds fy, ,d lk/kkj.k ifj{k.k fd;k tk ldrk gSA ;fn jax ds ?kksy dh ,d cwan diM+s dh lrg ij Mkyh tk;s rks og dksf”kdk izHkko ds dkj.k vfu;fer vkdkj esa “kh?kzrk ls QSy tk;sxh jax dks ,d LFkku ij fLFkj j[kus ds fy, jax dk xk<+k isLV iz;ksx yk;k tkrk gSA blds fy, gesa jax dks xk<+k djus okys rRoksa dh vko”;drk gksxh tks jax dks ,d LFkku ls nwljs LFkku ij tkus ls jksdrs gSA isLV jax lkexzh dks rc rd fLFkj j[krh gS tc rd fizaV iDdk u gks tk;s rFkk blds Ik”pkr~ vupkgs isLV ds d.kksa dks nwj fd;k tkrk gSA diM+s dh fizafVax ds eqdkcys esa] diM+s dh fQfuf”akx dk cgqr egRo gS D;ksafd ge ;g dg ldrs gS fd fQfuf”akx }kjk gh diM+k vkd"kZd curk gSA bl lanHkZ esa Cyhfpax rFkk jaxkbZ ¼tks igys ikB esa lfEefyr dh xbZ gS½ Hkh bl gh ifjHkk"kk esa vkrh gSA vkd"kZd jax nsdj bldh xq.koRrk dks c<+krh gSA eflZjkbftax izfØ;k Hkh fQfuaf”kax izfØ;k dk Hkkx gS D;ksafd ;g diM+s dks pedhyk rFkk vkd"kZd cukrh gSA bl ikB easa fQfuf”kax “kCn dks vf/kd fu;fU=r Hkko esa iz;ksx fd;k x;k gS ftlesa fQfuaf”kax “kCn dk iz;ksx diM+s dh] ljy ns[kHkky] ds izfr vkx izfrjks/kd] ikuh esa u Hkhxus okyk] fo|qr rjax dk izfrjks/kh] u fldqM+us okyk] vf/kd pedhys oL= vkfnA izHkkoks ls lEcfU/kr gSaA bl ikB esa igys ge fizafVax izfØ;k dk o.kZu djsaxs rFkk mlds Ik”pkr~ fQfuf”kax izfØ;k ds dqN egRoiw.kZ igyqvksa dk v/;;u djsaxsA

LoRk% ijh{k.k Á” Á”u (i) oL= fizfVax ls D;k vfHkizk; gS\ (ii) oL=ksa dh fQfuaf”kax dk D;k vfHkizk; gS\ 1

1111-2 fÁfVax ÁfØ;k ge fizfVax dh ifjppkZ mlds ,sfrgkfld ifjizs{; ls vkjEHk djsaxs rFkk mlds Ik”pkr~~ oL= fizfVax ds fofHkUu rjhdksa ij fopkj djsaxsA

11{; 11-2-1 ,sfrgk rgkfld ifjÁs ifjÁs{; diMksa ij gkFk }kjk fp=dkjh djuk rFkk Cykd ¼BIiksa½ }kjk NikbZ dk iz;ksx Hkkjro"kZ esa gtkjksa o"kZ ls fd;k tk jgk gSA gkFk }kjk fp=dyk esa diM+s ij gh jaxksa ds iz;ksx }kjk vkd`fr;ka MªkW dh tkrh gSaA blds vfrfjDr oL=ksa ij jsftLV rduhd dh lgk;rk ls Dys] LVªªkpZ] xksan ;k ekse }kjk uewus (pattern) cuk;s tkrs gS] tks jax Hkjus dh lhek,a gksrh gSA diM+s ij CykWd fizafVax dk rjhdk fla/k {ks= ¼tks vc ikfdLrku esa gS½ 8oha “krkCnh esa “kq: gqvk mlds Ik”pkr~ Hkkjro"kZ esa bldk iz;ksx vkjEHk gqvkA blesa ydM+h ds lery CykWd ij [kqnkbZ djds ,d fMt+kbu cuk;k tkrk gS rFkk mHkjs gq, Hkkx ij jax dk ysi yxkdj diM+s ij NikbZ dh tkrh gS diM+s ij leku nwjh ij bl izdkj NikbZ ls ;g ,d vkd"kZd NikbZ okyk oL= rS;kj gks tkrk gSA Hkkjro"kZ esa LVsafly }kjk NikbZ xqIrdky ¼6 oh ls 8 oh “krkCnh½ esa Hkh iz;ksx gksrh FkhA LVsafly dks diM+s ij j[kdj dVs gq, LFkkuksa ij cz”k ;k Lizs }kjk jax Hkjk tkrk gS tks ,d lqUnj fMt+kbu cu tkrk gSA vBkjgoha “krkCnh ds vafre Hkkx esa e”khu jksyj fizfVax dk vkjEHk gqvk ftldks ge CykWd fizafVax izfØ;k Hkh dg ldrs gSaA /kheh rFkk egaxh Cykd izfØ;k] lLrh rFkk vf/kd mRiknu izfØ;k esa cny xbZ rc lwrh fizfVax m|ksx esa Økafr vk xbZA LVsflay fizafVax izfØ;k }kjk LØhu fizafVax mUur gqbZ tks jsftLV fl}kar ij dk;Z djrh gS vkajfHHkd fnuksas esa js”ke ds tky dks LØhu fizfVax ds fy, iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk FkkA 19 oh “krkCnh ds var rd ;g izfØ;k tkiku esa cgqr mUur gks xbZA ¶ySV rFkk jksVjh LØhu fizfVax e”khusa bl le; rd LØhu fizfVax ds fy, cgqr yksdfiz; cu xbZA

1111-2-2 fÁ fÁafVax ds fy, iz;ksx essa vkus okys <ax ikB esa ge dqN egRoiw.kZ fof/k;ksa dk laf{kIr o.kZu djsaxs% • CykWd fÁ fÁfVax%& lery ydM+h ds yV~Bksa dks rjk”k dj ydM+h ds CykWd cuk;s tkrs Fks rFkk mu ij okafPNr fMt+kbu Nsuh ls [kksn dj cuk;s tkrs FksA cuk;s x;s fMt+kbu okys CykWd ij jax dh xk<+h isLV yxk dj diM+s ij BIik yxk;k tkrk gS ftlls CykWd ij cuk fMt+kbu diM+s ij Ni tkrk gSA izR;sd jax ds fy, ,d vyx CykWd iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA ;g izfØ;k tc rd nksgjkbZ tkrh gS tc rd fMt+kbu iwjs diM+s ij u cu tk;sA gkFk }kjk CykWd fizfVax Hkkjr esa y?kq rFkk ?kjsyw m|ksx esa iz;ksx dh tkrh gSA ;g ,d /kheh rFkk eg¡xh izfØ;k gS] ijUrq fof”k"V fMt+kbuks ds fy, rFkk lhfer ek=k dh fizfVax ds fy, ;g vkn”kZ fizafVax gSA • LVsfUly fÁfVax %& igys dMs+ rFkk “kksf"kr u djus okyh lkexzh ls cus VqdM+s ij fMt+kbu dh d`fr cukbZ tkrh gS rFkk bls diM+s ij j[k dj cz”k ;k Lizs }kjk dVs gq, Hkkxksa esa jax Hkjdj diM+s ij fMTk+kbu cuk;k tkrk gSA ,d lkekU; LVsufly ¼fp= 11-1½ esa fn[kk;k x;k gSaA

fp=. fp= 11.1

fp=.11.2 Ek” fp= Ek”khu jksyj fizfVax 2

•

•

Ek” Ek”khu jksyj fÁfVax %& vk/kqfud jksyj e”khu fizfVax uDdk'kh fd;s gq, CykWd

fizfVax fof/k dk mUur izdkj gSA bldh fof/k dk fl}kar fp= 11-2 esa fn[kk;k x;k gSA blesa rkacs dh lrg okys jksyj lsVksa ij fMt+kbu dh uDdk”kh dh tkrh gS] ftudh la[;k iz;ksx esa vkus okys jax ij fuHkZj djrh gSA jksyj ,d cM+s izs”kj flysaMj ds pkjksa vksj vuqØe (sequence) esa fLFkr gksrs gSaA ftldh lrg dks iSMy fd;k tkrk gS rFkk jax lkexzh ds /kCcksa ls lqjf{kr fd;k tkrk gSA

LØhu fÁfVax %& diM+s ij LØhu fizfVax gkFk }kjk ;k e”khu }kjk dh tkrh gSA

e”khu }kjk LØhu fizfVax esa] Lopkfyr ¶YkSV csM ;k jksVjh LØhu fizfVax fof/k dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA blds vf/kdrj iz;ksx esa vkus ds dkj.k] bl fof/k dk vc foLrkj ls o.kZu fd;k tk;sxkA

Lo;a tk¡p Á”u&

3- Hkkjr esa xqIrdky dh NikbZ ds dkSu lh nks fof/k;k¡ iz;ksx esa yk;h tkrh gaS\ 4- xqIrdky dh nks fizfVax fof/k;ksa ls dkSu lh izfl} fizfVax rduhd mUur gqbZ\

1111-3 LØhu fÁfVax %&

1111-3-1 gLrpfyr LØhu fÁfVax %& gLr pfyr LØhu fizfVax esa fizaV fd, tkus okys diM+s dks yEcs Vscy ij QSyk;k tkrk gSA ,d LØhu ¼fp= 11-3½ ftldh YkEckbZ diM+s dh pkSM+kbZ ls tjk lh vf/kd gks] dks ydM+h ds Qzse ij fQV fd;k tkrk gSA fizaV fd;s tkus okys fMTk+kbu dks LØhu ij :ikUrfjr fd;k tkrk gS ¼izR;sd jax ds fy, vyx LØhu gksxh½ rFkk tks LFkku fMt+kbu ls <dk ugh tkrk mls <dus ds fy, vikjxE; f>Yyh dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS ftlls jax lkexzh dsoy fMt+kbu ds mlh LFkku ij yxs tks ,d gh jax dk gksuk pkfg,A ¼fp= 11-4½ jax dk xk<k isLV] jax dks QSyus ls jksdrk gS rFkk isLV jax dks ml gh LFkku ij jksds j[krh gS tc fp= 1111-4 LØ LØhu Qzse rd fd jax ml fizfVax ds Ik”pkr~ ml ij te ugha tkrk RkFkk mlds Ik”pkr~ vupkgs isLV dks gVk;k tk ldrk gSA blds fy, leqfpr xk<k djus okyk rRo iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gS] ftlls isLV esa fpidus dh izd`fr c<+ tkrh gSA

fp=. 11.5 LDohth fp=

11.4 gLrpfyr

LØhu fizfVax 3

fizaV djus okys isLV dks ,d midj.k }kjk ftlesa jcM+ dk CysM yxk gksrk gS] LØhu ij nck;k tkrk gSA bl midj.k dks squeegee dgrs gS] ¼fp= 11-5½ LØhu ij pyk;k tkrk gS rFkk bl izfØ;k dks iqu% nksgjk;k tkrk gS nwljs jaxks dh LØhu ,d ds ckn ,d vkrh gS rFkk iwjk diM+k fizaV gks tkrk gSA

1111-3-2 v/kZ&Lopkfyr izfØ;k%& Ø;k gLrpkfyr LØhu fizafVax izfØ;k dks v/kZLopkfyr cukus ds fy, LØhu dks ,d dsfjt ij p<k;k tkrk gS rFkk squeegee dks eSdsfudyh LØhu ds ikj fd;k tkrk gSA nksuksa gLrpkfyr rFkk v/kZLokpkfyr ¶ySV LØhu fizfVax esa ,d jax ds ckn nwljk jax Nkik tkrk gSA nwljk jax Nkius ls igys] iwoZ okys jax dks lw[kus dk le; fn;k tkrk gSA lw[ks gq, diM+s dks rki }kjk iDdk djus ls igys Vscy ls dqN nsj ds fy, gVk fy;k tkrk gSA

1111-3-3 Lopkfyr LØhu fizafVax%& ¶ySV LØhu fizfVax dh xfr c<kus ds fy, ;g vko”;d Fkk fd lHkh jaxksa dks ,d lkFk fizaV djus fd fof/k rS;kj dh tk;sA blds fy, ;g vko”;d gS fd izR;sd jax dk LFkku fuf”pr gks rFkk vk/kkj ?kwerk gksaA jax LØhu }kjk yxk;s tkrs gS] tcdh Qzse fLFkj jgrk gSA ¶ySV LØhu fizafVax e”khu ftlesa diM+k fLFkj jgrk gS rFkk LØhu ,d dSfjt ij pyrk gS] js”ke dh NikbZ ds fy, mUur dh xbZA bldk iwjk lapkyu ok;q ncko }kjk fu;fU=r gksrk gSA ,d ,slh e”khu fp= 11-6 esa fn[kkbZ xbZ gSA

fp= 1111-6 Lopkfyr LØ LØhu fizfVax

jksVjh LØhu fizfVax e” e”khu%& ¶ySV csM (flat bed) LØhu fizfVax e”khu ds foijhr]

ftlesa fizfVax dk;Z :d :d dj gksrk gS] diM+s dks yxkrkj pykus ds fy, jksVjh LØhu fizfVax e”khu mUur dh xbZ ¼fp= 11-7½ blesa fizfVax ds le; LØhut dks diM+s ds lkFk lkFk pyk;k tkrk gS LØhu csyukdkj gksrh gS rFkk diM+k Hkh csyu ij ?kwerk gS ¼fp= 11-8½ ;s e”khusa dkQh eg¡xh gksrh gSA

fp=. fp= 11.7 jksVjh LØhu LØhu fizfVax

fp=. fp= 11.8 jksVjh LØhu LØhu fizfVax 4

xfrfof/k 1- LØhu fizafVax ds fy, 8”x 8” vkdkj dk ,d fMt+kbu cukb;sA

Lo;a tk¡p Á”u

5- fjDr LFkku Hkjks Hkjksa & (i) &&&&&&&&&&& rFkk &&&&&&&&&&&& izfØ;k oL= dh xq.koRrk dks c<krs gSaA (ii) vkarfjd :Ik esa CykWd fizfVax dk iz;ksx &&&&&&&&&& {ks= esa vkBoh “krkCnh essa fd;k tkrk gSA (iii) &&&&&&&&&& rRo fizfVax isLV dh fpidus dh “kfDr dks c<krs gSA (iv) izphu dky esa &&&&&&&&& tky dk LØhu ds :Ik esa iz;ksx fd;k tkrk FkkA (v) fizfVax isLV dks LØhu ds e/; ls xqtkjus ds fy, &&&&&&& lgk;rk yh tkrh gSA 6- fizfVax ds fy, jax dk ?kksy D;ksa iz;ksx esa ugha yk;k tkrk\ 7- fizfVax eas xk<+h isLV dk iz;ksx D;ksa fd;k tkrk gS\

1111-4 fQfuf” fQfuf”kax izfØ;k Wyme ds vuqlkj ¼Ref 2½ miyC/k fQfuaf”kax izfØ;k dks jklk;fud ,oa eSdsfudy izfØ;k esa ck¡Vk tk ldrk gSA blds vfrfjDr diM+s dh rki lsfVax rFkk lrg dksfVax dks Hkh fQfuf”kax fØ;k esa ekuk x;k gSA ge igys jklk;fud izfØ;k ij fopkj djsaxs rFkk ckn esa vU; izfØ;kvksa dk laf{kIr o.kZu djsaxsA

1111-4-1 jklk;fud fQfuf” fQfuf”kax izfØ;k

fp=. fp=

11.9

iSfMax eSaxy

jklk;fud fQfuf”kax izfØ;k,¡ og fØ;k gS ftlesa diM+s ij jlk;uksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS rFkk blls diM+s dks laHkkyus] tyjks/kh (waterproof) cukus] rsy rFkk feVVh dks nwj j[kus okyk] dhM+k u yxus nsus okyk] fo|qr jks/kd] vfXu izfrjks/kh vkkfn cuk;k tk ldrk gSA jklk;fud fQfuf”akx izk;% ikuh ds ?kksy ;k isLV }kjk iz;ksx esa ykbZ tkrh gS rFkk mnkgj.k ds :Ik esa iSM mangle dh lgk;rk ls ¼fp= 11-9½A diM+s dks jklk;fud fQfu”k dh uyh esa ls izokfgr fd;k tkrk gSA blds i”pkr~ bldks N.P.Sall dks tksMs ds }kjk fupksMk tkrk gS ftlls fuf”pr ek=k esa fQfu”k oL= ij yxsA HkjkbZ (padding) ds Ik”pkr~ diM+s dks lq[kk;k tkrk gS ftlls mlesa ikuh u jgs rFkk fQfu”k dks fLFkj djus ds fy, dqN le; ds fy, mPp rkieku esa j[kk tkrk gSA blls yxk;s x;s jlk;u diM+s ij etcwr fQfu”k cuk nsrs gSaA vc dqN jklk;fud fQfu”k mipkjksa dk o.kZu fd;k tk;sxk% • gSUMy ekW fMfQds”ku%& cqus gq, diM+s ij tc mcyrs gq, LVkpZ ds irys ?kksy ekWfMfQds dks yxk;k tkrk gS rks lq[kus ij rkus rFkk ckus ds /kkxksa esa LVkpZ dh rg etcwrh ls fpid tkrh gS rFkk mRikn dks dM+k cuk nsr gSA lwrh oL=ksa dks ygjnkj rFkk fpduh fQfu”k nsus ds fy, LVkpZ esa dqN cnyko djds vPNs ifj.kke izkIRk fd;s tk ldrs gSA 5

vktdy vf/kdka”kr% iz;ksx esa vkus okyk gsUMy xksfMQk;j ueZ djus okyk inkFkZ ¼softener½ gS tks rkus rFkk ckus ds /kkxksa dks fpduk dj nsrk gS ftlls diM+k vf/kd ljyrk ls eksM+k tk ldrk gS rFkk diM+k Hkh ueZ izrhr gksrk gSA ,uvkbfud feJ.k tSls lYQkbM~ rsy RkFkk lYQkbM~ vydksgy dks ueZ djus okys inkFkZ ds :Ik esa iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS vU; ueZ djus okys rRo gS rsy QSV ,oa ekse fefJr lkcqu rFkk fLkaFkSfVd fMVjtSUVl ,oa flfydku feJ.kA • ikuh dks gVkusa okyh ,oa ikuh jks/kd fQfu” fQfu”kt%& ikuh jks/kd fQfu”k og gS ftlesa diM+s ds Åij ,d ,slk inkFkZ yxk;k tk;s ftlls ikuh mlesa ls u xqtj ldsA ikuh fod"kZd ¼repellent) fQfu”k ds ifj.kkeLo:Ik diM+k xhyk ugha gksrkA izkphu dky esa diM+s dks ikuh jks/kd cukus ds fy, ml ij jcj dh dksfVax dh tkrh FkhA blls diM+k okWVj izwQ gks tkrk gS ijUrq Hkkjh] LFkwy rFkk vkjkenk;d ugha jgrkA flfydkWu feJ.k blds fy, cgqr mi;qDr gksrs gSaA • rsy] /kCcksa rFkk feVVh izfrjks/kd fQfu” fQfu”k%& flfydkWu ,oa ¶yksjks dsfedy fQfuf”kt cgqr gh izHkkoh gksrh gSA rsy dh cw¡n lk/kkj.k diM+s ij iM+us ls “kh?kzrk ls QSy tkrh gSA ¶yksjh dsfedy ls mipkj fd;s x;s diM+s rsy dks diM+s esa QSyus ls jksdrs gSA dksbZ Hkh mipkj tks diM+s dh lrg dks xhyk djus dks izksRlkfgr djrk gS og feV~Vh dks gVkus ds rRo dk dke djrk gSA iksfyesjt esa gkbMªksfQfyd lewg ¼,Øfyd vEy lewg½ gksrk gS tks “kh?kzrk ls ikuh esa xhyk gks tkrk gS rFkk ;g xhyh lrg feVVh dks gVkus okys rRo dk dk;Z djrk gSA carboxy methyl cellulose (CMC) diM+s esa ?kqyrs le; feVVh dks iqu% tek gksus ugha nsrh blfy, fMVsjtSaV esa bldk cgq/kk iz;ksx gksrk gSA • dhM+k jks/kd fQfu” fQfu”k (Moth & insects damage proofing finishes) & iqjkus tekus esa dhM+k jks/kd fQfu”k nsus ds fy, mudks dhVuk”kd ds iz;ksx lfgr cuk;k tkrk FkkA Ik;kZoj.k lEcU/kh dkj.kksa ls flaFkSfVd ikbjsFksjksbMu dk iz;ksx fd;s tkus yxk tks tkuojksa ds izfr de fo"kSyk gSA • ekbØ ekbØksck;ksflMy fQfuf” fQfuf”kt%& ;g diM+s dh fQfuf”kax ds fy, cgqr egRoiw.kZ gks jgh gS csdVhfj;ksLVsfVd (Bacteriostatic) jlk;u }kjk thok.kqvksa dh mRifRr gksrh gSA blh izdkj (fungistatic) jlk;u }kjk QQqUnh iSnk gksrh gSA diM+ksa dks bu jlk;uksa ls r`Ir dj nsus ls diM+k laØe.k ls lqjf{kr gks tkrk gSA • lwrh oL= dks vfXujks/kd fQfu fQfu” Qfu”k nsuk%& QkLQksjl ;qDr lkexzh dks ;wfj;k ls izfrfØ;k cukbZ tkrh gS bl izfrfØ;k ls mRiUu mRikn dks lwrh diM+s ij yxkdj lq[kk;k tkrk gS blds Ik”pkr~ diM+s dh veksfu;k ls izfrfØ;k djkbZ tkrh gS rFkk vUr esa gkbMªkstu ijkvkWDlkbM }kjk vkWDlhMkb djk;k tkrk gSA bl izdkj diM+k vfXu ls de izHkkfor gksrk gSA • fo|qr jks/kd jks/kd djuk

vkos”k jks/kd fQfu” %& fo|qr vkos”k fQfu”k (anti static finishes)%& fQfu”k fo|qr vkos”k dks diM+s ij tek ugha gksus nsrhA fo|qr vkos”k mipkj dk ,d jkspd ifj.kke] ICI }kjk ijekslksy fQfuf”kt dks mUUkr gS ftlesa CykWd] dks ikWyhelZ ds ,fFkysu vkWDlkbM ,oaa ikWyh,sLVj feys 6

gksrs gSaA tc ikWyh,sLVj js'kksa dk blls mipkj fd;k tkrk gS rks dksiksfyelZ dk ikWyh,sLVj Hkkx ikWyh,sLVj js”ks }kjk 'kksf"kr dj fy;k tkrk gS ijUrq iksfy,fFkysu vkWDlkbM ikWyh,sLVj ls valxr gksus ds dkj.k diM+s dh lrg ij jg tkrk gS tg¡k ij ;g ikuh dks vkdf"kZr djrk gS rFkk ikWyh,sLVj js”ks dh lrg dks pkyd cuk nsrk gSA

1111-4-2 rki }kjk lsfVax (Heat setting) Åij le; fd;k tkrk

diM+s dh rki lsfVax ,d fuf'pr rkieku ls ¼tks dk¡p ds Vªkaft”ku rki ls rFkk vf/kdre iz;ksx esa vkus okys rkieku ds vkl ikl gksrk gS½ ,d fof”k"V rd lEcfU/kr gksrk gS oL=ksa dks lery lrg ;k iwoZ fuf”pr vkdkj esa ghV lsV tk ldrk gS tSls ukbyksu gkStjhA ghV lsfVax ls v.kqvksa dks iqu% izca/ku fd;k gS rFkk vkUrfjd ncko nwj fd;k tkrk gS ;g diM+s ds eki dks fLFkj djrk gSA

1111-4-3 esdSfudy fQfuf” fQfuf”kt (Mechanical finishes) diM+s dks xeZ ?kqeus okys jksyjksa esa ls izokfgr fd;k tkrk gS ftlls diM+s dh lrg fpduh] iqfu;ksa (slubs) dks piVk djuk] diM+s dh ped c<kuk] diM+s dks ueZ cukdj gSaMy djuk ljy cukuk gSA diM+s dh fQfuf”kax vkSj Hkh cgqr lh fof/k;ka gSa tks bleas lfEefyr ugha fd;s x;s gSaA ;s lc lanHkZ eas nh xbZ iqLrdksa esa fn;s x;s gSA

xfrfof/k 2- fofHkUu fQfuf”kax mipkjksa rFkk muls lEcfU/kr jklk;fud rRoksa dh lwph cukvksaA

Lo;a Lo;a tkap iz”u 8- fjDr LFkku Hkjksa fQfuf”kax izfØ;k dks &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& rFkk &&&&&&&&& izfØ;k esa ckW¡Vk tk ldrk gS (ii) jklk;fud fQfuf”kax &&&&&&&&&&&&& mangles dh lgk;rk ls fd;k tkrk gSA (iii) ghV& lsfVax diM+k dks &&&&&&&&&&&&& cukrh gSA (iv) diM+s ij feV~Vh teus ls jksdus ds fy, &&&&&&&& lkexzh iz;ksx dh tkrh gS (v) iksfyej esa &&&&&&&&&&& lewg “kh?kzrk ls ikuh esa xhys gks tkrs gSaA 9cqusa gq, lwrh diM+s dks etcwr dSls cuk;k tkrk gS\ 1010- diM+s dks ikuh jks/kd (water proof) fdl jklk;u ls cuk;k tkrk gS\ 1111- fo|qr vkos”k fQfu”k (anti static finish) D;k dk;Z djrk gS\ (i)

1111-5 nÙk dk;Z

1111-5-1 d{kk dk;Z (i)

LØhu fizfVax izfØ;k }kjk 6 dq”ku fizaV djksA

1111-5-2 x`g dk;Z (i) diM+s ds fHkUu fHkUu uewus ftu ij fHkUu fHkUu fQfuf”kt vafdr gks dk laxzg djksA

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1111-6 lkjka”k bl ikB esa fizfVax rFkk fQfuf”kax izfØ;kvksa dk o.kZu fd;k x;kA diM+k fizfVax {ks= esas] CykWd fizafVax] LVasfly fizfVax] jksyj fizfVax rFkk LØhu fizfVax gLrpkfyr] Lopkfyr ¶ySV csM ,oa jksVjh dk laf{kIr :Ik esa o.kZu fd;k x;kA lHkh izdkj dh fQfuf”akx izfØ;k,¡ dk Hkh o.kZu fd;k x;kA

1111-7 Lo;a Lo;a tkap iz”uksas ds laHkkfor mÙkj 12345-

diM+s ij uewuk ;k fMt+kbu rS;kj djus ds fy, jaxksa ;k jax nzO;ksa dk LFkkuh; iz;ksx fizafVax dgykrk gS fQfuf”kax og izfØ;k gS ftlds }kjk diM+s dks vkd"kZd cuk;k tk ldrk gSA LVsafly fizfVax rjhdk rFkk CykWd fizfVax rjhdkA LØhu fizfVax LVsafly fizafVax ls RkFkk jksyj fizfVax CykWd fizfaVx ls mUur gqbZA fjDr LFkku Hkjksas% (i) fizfVax] fQfuf”akx (ii) fla/k (iii) xk<+k djus okyk rRo (iv) js”ke ds tky (v) squeegee

6- jax dk ?kksy diM+s esa vfu;fer vkdkj ¼tc diM+s ij Mkyk tkrk gS½ esa dks”kfd; izHkko ls curk gSA 7- xk<+k isLV jax dks ,d LFkku ij cuk;s j[krk gS tc rd fizfVax ds ckn mls fQDl ugha fd;k tkrkA

8- fjDr LFkku Hkjks (i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v)

jklk;fud rFkk esdSfudy iSfMax fLFkj eki CMC gkbMªksfQfyd

9- LVkpZ ds mcyrs gq, ruq ?kksy dks yxkus ls A 1010- flfydku feJ.k 1111- fo|qr& vkos”k jks/kd fQfu”k (anti static finish) fo|qr vkos”k dks diM+s ij tek ugha gksus nsrhA

1111-8 vH;klkFkZ iz”u ¼1½ Lopkfyr LØhu fizfVax dk laf{kIr o.kZu djsaA ¼2½ jklk;fud fQfu”k fdl izdkj dh tkrh gS o.kZu djsaA

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1111-9 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 1. Gulrajani, M.L. (Ed). 1993. Methods of Printing in Chemical Processing of Silk

by Chopra, S. Textile Department, IIT, Delhi.

2. Joseph M.L. 1966. Introductory Textile Science. Holt Rinehart and Winston Inc., Chicago.

3. Miller, E. 1978. Textile Properties and Behaviour. B.T. Batford Ltd., London.

4. Wynne, A. 1997. Textiles. Macmillan Education Ltd., London.

5. Gohl, E.P. and Vilensky, L.D. 2005. Textile Science. CBS Publishers & Distributors, New Delhi.

1111-10 â&#x20AC;&#x153;kCnkoyh 1.

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Localized Connotation All-inclusive Slicing Smeared Equi-distant Impermeable Pneumatically Intermittent Glass transition temperature

LFkkuhdj.k vFkZ ftlls lHkh dqN lfEefyr gS irys VqdMs+ dkVuk fpdukbZ yxkuk leku nwjh ij vikjxE; ok;q nkc ij dk;Z djuk #d #d dj ueZ djus okyk rkieku

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