1414- VSDLVkbZ DLVkbZy js”kksa rFkk /kkxksa dh VsfLVax (TESTING OF TEXTILES FIBRES AND YARNS) diM+k mRiknu ds fy, js”ks ;k /kkxs vkjafHkd lkexzh gS blfy, mudk pfj= fp=.k djuk rFkk muds xq.kksa dh tkudkjh izkIr djuk cgqr vko”;d gS bl ikB eas bl mís”; ds fy, iz;ksx fd;s tkus okys midj.kksa rFkk muls izkIr lwpukvksa dk o.kZu fd;k tk;sxkA oL= vxys RkFkk vfUre ikB dk fo"k; gksxkA
1414-0 mís”; • • • • • •
• •
bl ikB dk v/;;u djus ds Ik”pkRk~ vki l{ke ;ksX; gksaxs% yEckbZ forj.k ¼distribution½ ds fy, lwr dk pfj= fp=.k djus esaA js”kksa dh mRd`"Vrk ¼fineness½ ds fy, mudk pfj= fp=.k djus esaA fuEu vko/kZu ¼low magnification½ ij js”kksa dh yEckbZ ,oa Økl lsD”ku dk ijh{k.k djus esaA js”kksa }+kjk tyd.kksa dks iqu% “kksf"kr djus ¼regain of moiture½ esaA js”kksa rFkk /kkxksa ds fpifpikgV xq.kksa dks ekius ¼measure ½ esaA /kkxs ds yhfu;j ?kuRo rFkk dkmUV dks ekius ¼measure linear density & count½ esa /kkxs esa ,saBu dh ek=k dks ekiu esaA /kkxs dh lekurk ¼evenness½ dks ekius esaA
1414-1 ÁLrkouk bl dkslZ dh bdkbZ&1 rFkk ikB 1 esa geus ;g tkuk dh lwrh rFkk Åuh js”ks] NksVs js”kksa ds :Ik esas mRiUu gksrs gS rFkk budks NksVs js”ks ¼staple fibers½ dgk tkrk gS js”ke rFkk ekuo fufeZr js”kksa dh :ijs[kk ds vuqlkj cgqr vf/kd yEcs gksrs gS rFkk bu lrr~ js”ksnkj rRoksa dks fQykesUVl dgk tkrk gSA ge us ;g Hkh tkuk fd js”kksa dks muds mn~Hko ¼origin½ ds vk/kkj ij oxhZd`r fd;k tkrk gS blds ckn ds nwljs rFkk rhljs ikB esa geus muds xq.kksa rFkk igpku dh fof/k;ksa ds ckjs esa v/;;u fd;kA vc ge bl dkslZ dh vfUre bdkbZ ij igq¡p x;s gSaA geus ikB 13 esa xq.koŸkk dk vFkZ rFkk js”kksa ds fy, VsfLVax dh vko”;drk ds fo"k; esa tkudkjh izkIr dh] ftlls ge iw.kZ xq.koŸkk izca/ku dks izkIr dj ldrs gSaA js”ks] /kkxs rFkk diM+s] oL= fuekZ.k ds fy, miyC/k lkexzh gS blfy, diM+s cukus okyh lkexzh ds y{k.k rFkk xq.kksa dk v/;;u djus ds rjhdksa dh [kkst dh xbZA js”kksa rFkk /kkxksa dks bl ikB esa rFkk oL=ksa ds v/;;u dk fo"k; vxys ikB esa gksxkA ijUrq okLrfod ijh{k.k rFkk midj.kksa ds v/;;u ls igys VSDLVkby lkexzh dh dMh”kfuax rFkk lsEifyax ij fopkj djuk Bhd gksxkA
14yu ,oa uewuk ysuk ¼Conditining & sampling½½ 14-2 vuqdwyu geus bl dkslZ ds nwljs ikB esa tkuk fd VsDLVkby lkexzh ds xq.k] fo”ks"krk,¡ rkieku rFkk vnZzrk ds izfr cgqr laosnu”khy ¼sensitive½ gS blfy, vFkZiw.kZ ifj.kke izkIr djus ds fy, VsLV fd;s tkus okyh lkexzh dks ekU; okrkoj.k esa vuqdwfyr ¼conditioned½ djuk vko”;d gS rFkk ijh{k.k iz;ksx”kkyk esa djus pkfg, tgk¡ rkieku Rkk vknZzrk dk dze”k% 25˚+ 2˚c rFkk 65 ˚+ 2% ij fu;fU=r fd;k x;k gksA 1
Ikzkd`frd js”kksa ds xq.kksa rFkk vk;keksa ¼dimensions½ esa ifjorZu”khyrk ekuo fufeZr js”kksa ls cgqr vf/kd gksrh gS blfy, izkd`frd js”kksa ds fo”ks"k VsLV ds fy, uewuksa dh la[;k vf/kd gksuh pkfg, ftlls vFkZiw.kZ e/;eku izkIr gks ldsA ekuo fufeZr js”kksa ds uewuksa dh la[;k ,d fof”k"V xq.k VsLV djus ds fy, de gks ldrh gSA
14s LV 14-3 js”kksa ds fy, Vs VLV bl ikB esa] ge dqN egRoiw.kZ VsLVksa dk o.kZu djsaxs tks izk;% js”kksa ds fy, fd;s tkrs gSa] os gS% length distribution lwrh js”kksa ds fy,] js”kksa dh Js"Brk] js”kksa ds yksfxV;wMuy lSD”ku rFkk dzkl&lsD”ku dk fuEu vko/kZurk }kjk ijh{k.k] tyd.kksa dks iqu% xzg.k djuk RkFkk js”kksa dh fpifpikgV ds xq.kksa dk ijh{k.kA VSDLVkby js”kksa dks tykus okys RkFkk ?kqyu”khyrk VsLVksa dh lgk;rk ls igpku geus ikB&3 esa fopkj fd;k Fkk blfy, ;gka bldk o.kZu ugha fd;k tk;sxkA
1414-3-1 lwrh js”kksa dk yEckbZ forj.k
lwrh js”ks esa yEckbZ dk forj.k gksrk gS ftldk /;ku js”kksa dks dkrrs le; RkFkk muds xq.kksa dk fo”kys"k.k djrs le; j[kuk vko”;d gSA NksVs js”kksa ds fp= ds fy, fiber sorter dh vko”;drk gksrh gSA ftlds fofHkUu izdkj miYkC/k gSaA ge ;gk¡ bear sorter dk o.kZu djsaxsA fp= 14-1A bl midj.k esa 12 uhps ds da?ks rFkk 3 Åij ds da?ks yxs gksrs gS tks js”kksa dh O;wg jpuk rS;kj djrs gSaA
fp=.. fp= 14.1 csvj
lkSVZj
yxHkx 20 feyh xzke lwrh js”kksa dks VsLV ds fy, fy;k tkrk gS bu js”kksa dks da?kksa dh lgk;rk ls vyx djds js”kksa dks tufts esa cnyk tkrk gS] yEcs js”kksa ls vkjEHk djds Øe”k% NksVs js”kksa dh tufts cukbZ tkrh gSA tufts dks osYosV iSM+ ij bl izdkj lkFk lkFk fcNk;k tkrk gS fd muds Ýh fljs ,d ljy js[kk ds vk/kkj ykbu ij gksA
fp=.14.2 Typical Baer diagram for fp=
fp= 14-2 ,d fof”k"V bear diagram gS tks lwrh js”kksa dh gS rFkk ;g Li"V djrh gS fd oØjs[kk bl lEHkkouk dks n”kkZrh gS fd fdlh Hkh js”ks dks dgha ls Hkh fy;k tk;s og fdlh Hkh nh xbZ yEckbZ 1 ls cM+k gksxkA ;g /;ku nsus ;ksX; gS fd fp= 14-2 esa ftu js”kksa dh yEckbZ Imax ls vf/kd gS mudh lEHkkouk ”kwU; gaSA og js”ks tks yEckbZ esa Imin ls vf/kd gS mudh 2
lEHkkouk 1 gSA bl fp= ls js”kksa ds fo"k; esa ykHknk;d lwpuk fey ldrh gS] tSls izHkkoh yEckbZ] y?kq js”kksa dk % yEckbZ esa cnyko dk xq.kakd ¼co - efficient½ vkfn Hkkjrh; ekuna.M ¼1s½ 233 ¼Hkkx 2½% 1978 mu parameters dk vuqeku yxkus dk rjhdk crkrk gSaA
Lo;a tk¡p Á”u Á”u ¼1½ oL= fuekZ.k ds fy, js”kksa dks fo”ks"k ok;qeaMyh; ifjfLFkfr;ksa esa VsLV fd;k tkuk pkfg,A blds fy, visf{kr vknZzrk ,oa rkieku D;k gksuk pkfg,\ ¼2½ vk;ke ¼dimensional½ dk ifjorZu izkd`frd js”kksa eas ekuofufeZr ls vf/kd gksrk gSA D;ksa\ ¼3½ fof”k"V y?kq js”kk fp= esa] nksuks v{kj D;k n”kkZrs gS \
4-3-2 js”kksa dh Js"Brk ¼Finness of fibers½½ js”kksa ds vkdkj] O;kl] yhfu;j ?kuRo ;k izfrbdkbZ yEckbZ ds Hkkj dk vkisf{kr eki ¼relative measure½ js”kksa dh Js"Brk ¼finness½ dgykrh gSA oL= m|ksx ds ÅWauh foHkkx esa js”kksa dh xq.koŸkk RkFkk muds okf.kT; ewY;kadu dks Kkr djus ds fy, js”kksa dh Js"Brk ¼finness½ dk egRo gSA ;gk¡ ij y?kq dksey Åu dks yEch vifj"d`r ¼coarse½ Åu ls cgqr vf/kd ewY;oku ekuk tkrk gSA lwrh js”ks Js"Brk esa fiNM+ tkrs gS D;ksafd yEcs js”ks Bhd gksrs gS rFkk js”kksa dh YkEckbZ Js"Brk dk eq[; ?kVd gSA ekbdzksQkbu iksfyLVj js”kksa ds vkxeu rFkk muds lfEeJ.k ds xq.kksa ¼combination properties½ ds dkj.k] js”kksa ds vkMs+ vk;keksa ¼transverse dimensions½ esa :fp iSnk gqbZA
fp=.14.3 js”kksa fp=
dh
Js"Brk
Airflow midj.k] tks izk;% js”kksa dh Js"Brk ekius ds dke esa yk;k tkrk gS] bl fl)kar ij dk;Z djrk gS fd lwrh js”kksa dh Js"Brk ¼finness½] fuf”pr Hkkj okys :bZ ds MkV esa ls ok;q dk izokg dh nj ls lEcfU/kr gSA ;g MkV ¼plug½ ,d ik= ¼container½ ftldk fuf”pr vkdkj
gksrk gS rFkk fLFkj nkc okys gSM ls tqM+k gksrk gSA js”kksa dh Js"Brk VsLV djus okys ;U= ¼fp= 14-3½ dks igys va”k”kks/ku ¼colebrate½ fd;k tkrk gS] blds fy, rhu va”k”kksf/kr lwrh js”kksa dk iz;ksx fd;k tkrk gS] ;fn ;g lgh ik;k tkrk gS rks izR;sd 5 xzke Hkkj ds nks lwrh uewuksa dks VsLV fd;k tkrk gS blds fy, uewuksa dks VsLV fd;k tkrk gS blds fy, uewuksa esa ls ok;q dks fuf”pr nkc ij xqtkjk tkrk gS js”ks ftrus Bhd gksxsa mudh lrg dk {ks= mruk gh vf/kd gksxk rFkk blfy, ok;q ds cgko esa ck/kk Hkh mruh gh vf/kd gksxhA vr% fof”k"Vrj ¼finer½ js”kksa esa ok;q dk cgko de gksxkA dqN midj.kksa esa eki micronaire bdkbZ esa vafdr gksrk gS tcfd vU; midj.kksa esa ok;qcgko ¼+airflow½ dh Mk;jsDV jhfMax dks micronaire value esa cnyuk iM+rk gSA ;g midj.k Åu dh VsfLaVx ds fy, Hkh iz;ksx esa yk;k tk ldrk gS ftlesa uewus dk fuf”pr ek=k 5&9 xzke rFkk ok;q nkc 4-5 lbs @cm2 gksrk gSA
1414-3-3 Longitudinal Sections and Cross Sections of Fibres Ukewuk rS;kj djus dh fof/k bl dkslZ dh ;wfuV&1 ikB&3 ds Hkkx 3-3 esa o.kZu dh xbZ gSA
3
fp=.14.4 iksztsDlu ekbdkzsLdksi
fp=.14.5 vksIVhdy ekbdkzsLdksi
js”kksa esa jax p<+us ;k /kCcksa ds izHkko dk vuqeku yxkus ds fy, ØkWl lSD”ku QksVksxzkW¶l dk iz;ksx Hkh fd;k tk ldrk gSA bldk ,d :fpdj mnkgj.k fp= 14-6 esa ns[kk tk ldrk gS ftlesa xzs twV ds js”ks dk ØkWl lSD”ku fn[kk;k x;k gS ftlesa }kjk /kCcs cuk;s x;s gSaA fp=. fp= 14.6 xzs twV ds js”ksa dk Økl lSD”ku
1414-3-1 js”kksa dk tyd.kks tyd.kksa dk iqu% “kksf"kr djuk ¼moisture regain½ js”ks }kjk “kksf"kr fd;s x;s tyd.kksa dks HkkjkRedrk ¼gravimeterically½}kjk ekik tk ldrk gSA blds fy, rksyus okyh [kkyh cksry] fo”ys"k.kkRed rqyk ¼analytical balance½ rFkk ,d xeZ ok;q okys vksou dh vko”;drk gksrh gS rksyus okyh [kkyh cksry igys lgh lgh rksyk tkrk gS ftlds fy, precision balance dh vko”;drk gksrh gSA js”ks dk uewuk bl cksry esa j[kus ds fp=.14.7 xeZ i”pkr~ cksry dks iqu% rksyk tkrk gSA Ckksry dks js”ks lfgr xeZ vksou }kjk ¼fp= 14-7½ 105+3c˚ rki ij 30 feuV rd lq[kk;k tkrk gS] /;ku jgs cksry dk <Ddu [kqyk gksuk pkfg,A blds i”pkr~ <Ddu yxk dj cksry dks <d fn;k tkrk gSA bl fof/k dks tc rd nksgjk;k tkrk gS tc rd ;g iwjh rjg lw[k u tk;sa rFkk bldk Hkkj fLFkj ¼constant½ u gks tk;sA tyd.kksa dks iqu% “kksf"kr djus dh % Kkr djus ds fy, ¼okLrfod uewus dh ek=k lq[kkus ds ckn uewus dh ek=k½ rFkk bldks ovendsy ek=k ls Hkkx djds var esa 100 ls xq.kk fd;k tkrk gSA eq[; js”kksa dk tyd.k “kksf"kr djus dh value] ikB&2 ds Vscy esa fn;k x;k gSaA
1414-4 /kkxksa dk ijh{k.k • /kkxksa ds dqN eq[; y{k.k@fo”ks"krk,sa gSaA • mudh yhfu;j ?kuRo RkFkk dkmUV • ,saBu dk Lrj • Lkeryrk ¼evenness½ 4
• Ektcwrh bl Hkkx eas ge budks ekius ds <axksa dh tkudkjh izkIr djk;saxsA
1414-4-1 yhfu;j ?kuRo RkFkk dkmUV dk ekiuk ¼Linear density & Count ½ yhfu;j ?kuRo dk iz;ksx /kkxs dh Js"Brk ¼finness½ dk lwpd gS /kkxs dks la[;kadu ¼numbering½ djus dh nks fof/k;k¡ dk uhps o.kZu fd;k x;k gSA • izR;{k ¼Mk;jsDV½ fof/k & blesa izfr bdkbZ yEckbZ esa ek=k dk eki fy;k tkrk gS tks /kkxs dh Js"Brk dks tex ;k denier esa n”kkZrk gS å Tex % 1000 ehVj /kkxs dh xzkeksa esa ek=k dks tex dgrs gSa] bldks la[;k esa fn[kyk;k tkrk gSA å Denier % 9000 ehVj /kkxs dh xzke esa ek=k dks denier dgrs gSa] bldks la[;k 1 esa n”kkZ;k tkrk gSA • vizR;{k ¼indirect½ fof/k & blessa izfr ;wfuV yEckbZ dh ek=k dks /kkxs dh Js"Brk dk eki iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gS] rFkk /kkxksas dh la[;k dks fxurh esa n”kkZ;k tkrk gS å lwrh ¼English½ ½ la[;k ¼Ne½ ¼ ¼ ½ cotton count & fdlh Hkh /kkxs dk dkWVu dkmUV] 840 xt yEcs /kkxs ds ,d ikSaM Hkkj dh la[;k gSA • owy ¼american cut½ dkmUV ¼Nac½ & fdlh Hkh /kkxs dk owy dkmUV 300 xt yEckbZ ¼yPNksa½ dh la[;k gS ftldk Hkkj ,d ikSaM gksrk gSA å ozfLVM dkmUV ¼Nw½ & fdlh Hkh /kkxs dh ozfLVM dkmUV 560 xt yEckbZ ¼yPNksa½ dh la[;k gS ftldk Hkkj ,d ikaSM gksrk gSA å metric count (N) & eSVfjd dkmUV 1000 m length@hanks dh la[;k gS ftldk Hkkj ,d fdyksxzke gksrk gSA ge igys yEckbZ eki ds nks dslks ij fopkj djsxsa@ vFkkZr iSdst ds :Ik esa rFkk NksVh yEckbZ ds /kkxsA • iSdst ds :Ik esa /kkxs &bl & :Ik esa /kkxs xksy fQjdh ;k dksu ds iSdst gksrs gSa] tks izk;% wrap jhy ds }kjk cgqr ls yPNksa esa yisVs tkrs gS ¼fp= 14-8½A /kkxs dks yisVrs le; mldk ruu ¼tension½ fLFkj ¼constant½ j[kuh vko”;d gS blds fy, ,d ekid ¼gauge½ dk iz;ksx fd;k tk ldrk gS ;fn mPp ;FkkFkZrk (accuracy) okafPNr gks rks /kkxs dks igys yPNs esa yisVuk pkfg, rFkk mudks fuf”pr okrkoj.k esa 3 ?kUVs ds fy, j[kus ds Ik”pkr~ dkmUV eki ds fy, jhy ij yisVuk pkfg,A blls vuqdwyu ds le; /kkxksa dks fldqM+us rFkk uje iM+us dk le; fey tkrk gS rFkk fldqM+us ds dkj.k gksus okyh =qfV;ksa ls cpk tk ldrk gSA
fp=.14.8 fp= dksu ds iSdst
5
• NksVh yEckbZ okys /kkxs& dHkh dHkh dsoy NksVh yEckbZ okys /kkxs gh miyC/k gksrs gSA budk eki djus ls igys budh 24 ?kUVas ds fy, vuqdwyu ¼conditioning½ dh tkrh gSA vc ge Hkkj ekiu ij fopkj djsaxsA fo”ys"k.kkRed rqyk ¼analytical balance½ ;k vU; fo”ks"k rqyk ftlls /kkxk ekik tk ldrk gks dk iz;ksx dkmUV Kkr djus ds fy, fd;k tkrk gks ;FkkZFk ¼accurate½ rFkk lery gksuk vko”;d gS rFkk bldks eki djus ls igys tk¡p ysuk pkfg,A ;g vko”;d gS fd /kkxs ds uewus esa tyd.k dh mifLFkfr dks /;ku esa j[kk tk;sA ,slk /kkxs ds uewus dks oven esa lq[kkdj rFkk vksou dk MªkbZ Hkkj ysdj ;k uewus dks VsfLVax okrkoj.k esa vuqdwyu vf/kd le; rd djus ds Ik”pkr~ ftlls larqyu cuk jgs rFkk blds Ik”pkr~ Hkkj mlh okrkoj.k esa fd;k tkrk gS nksuks ijh{k.kksa ds ifj.kke ekU; ugha Hkh gks ldrs gSA igys ge yhfu;j ?kUkRo ds ekiu dk o.kZu djsxsA Tex rFkk MsfUk;j Kkr djus ds fy, vuqdwfyr /kkxs dk iz;ksx dj ldrs gS RkFkk 100 ehVj yEckbZ dk /kkxk tks wrap reel ij fyiVk gks rFkk ,d yPNs ls fy;k
x;k gks dk iz;ksx djuk pkfg,A bldks ,d laosnu”khy rqyk }kjk rksyk tkuk pkfg,A uewus dk Hkkj rFkk yEckbZ Kkr djus ds Ik”pkr~ ge fyfu;j ?kuRo dk vuqeku yxk ldrs gS mnkgj.k ds fy, ;fn /kkxs dh yEckbZ 100 ehVj gks rFkk Hkkj 2-5 xzke gks rks mldk yhfu;j ?kuRo 25 tex ;k 225 Msfu;j gksxkA /kkxs dk dkmUV ;k la[;k ekius ds fy, 120 xt dk vuqdwfyr lwrh /kkxs ds yPNs dk Hkkj Kkr fd;k tkrk gS bl eki ls ge 840 xt /kkxs ds yPNs dh la[;k Kkr dj ldrs gS ftudk Hkkj ,d ikSaM gks rFkk ;g lwrh /kkxs dk English Count crk;sxkA /kkxk ekius dh cgqr lh fo”ks"k rqyk,a miyC/k gS tks “kh?kz vfr “kh?kz dkmUV Kkr djus ds fy, fMt+kbu dh xbZ gS rFkk fo”ks"k :Ik ls tc NksVs uewuksas dk Count tkuuk gks A
fp=. fp= 14.9 Beesley Balance
bl izdkj dh ,d rqyk beesley balance gS tks fp= uEcj 14-9 esa fn[kkbZ xbZ gS ;g midj.k ij ,d lk/kkj.k beam ds lkFk ,d gqd yxk gksrk gS rFkk nwljs Nksj ij ,d ladrs lqbZ yxh gksrh gS ¼fp= 14-10½A rqyk n.M ¼ beam½ dks igys lUrqfyr djds lqbZ dks vk/kkj js[kk ds lkeus j[kk tkrk gSA
fp=. fp= 14.10 Count Measurement Mechanism
6
,d fuf”pr Hkkj dks rqykn.M ds lqbZ okys Nksj ij yVdk;k tkrk gS ¼ns[kksa fp= 1410½A /kkxs ds NksVs VqdM+s dkVus ds fy, lk¡pk iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gS] ftldk okafPNr yEckbZ Count fof/k ds vuqlkj fuf”pr gksrh gS ;s NksVs VqdMs gqd es rc rd Mkys tkrs gS tc rd lqbZ vk/kkj js[kk ds lkeus u vk tk;sA diM+s ds NksVs uewuksa dk fo”ys"k.k djrs le; cremp eksVk vuqeku yxk ysuk pkfg, rFkk Count dks lgh dj ysuk pkfg,A
Lo;a tk¡p iz”u 4- Msfu;j rFkk tex esa D;k lEcU/k gS\ 5- bafXy”k dkWVu dkmUV dk D;k vFkZ gS\
xfrfof/k 1- iksfyLVj fQykeSaV ds nks lkekU; mi;ksx gS% (a) 76 Msfu;j] 24 fQykeSaV] 0 ,saBu (b) 80 Msfu;j] 34 fQykeSaV] 0 ,saBu 3
fQykeSaVl dks xksykdkj ekurs gq, rFkk ikWfy,sLVj dk ?kuRo 1-4 xzke@lseh gks] rks js”kksa dk nksuks fLFkfr;ksa esa O;kl Kkr djks rFkk fVIi.kh djksA
1414-4-2 ,saBu dk ekiu ¼twist measurement½ ,asBu ekius ds cgqr ls <ax gSaA ge ;gka ij nks rjhdks dk o.kZu djsaxs tks cgqr lkekU; izdkj ds /kkxksa ds fy, mi;qDr gSA igys ,dy /kkxs ds fy, rFkk nwljk nksgjs rFkk cgqYM nksgjs /kkxksa ds fy,A ,dy /kkxs ds fy, ,saBu VsLVj & ge ,saBu fldqM+u ¼twist contraction½ ij vk/kkfjr ,dy /kkxs ds fy, ,saBu VsLVj dk o.kZu djsaxs ¼fp= 14-11½ igys /kkxs dks ck¡;s gkFk okys dysEi esa idM+saxs tks ,d /kqjh ij yxk gksrk gS rFkk ml ij lqbZ yxh gksrh gS /kkxs dks ,d ?kweus okys iats eas ls xqtkjus ds Ik”pkr~ mls rc rd [khapk tkrk gS tc rd lqbZ xsztq,fVM Ldsy dh “kwU; js[kk ds lkeus u vk tk;sA rc iats dsk cUn dj fn;k tkrk gSA bl voLFkk esa uewus essa agYdh ruu rFkk mldh yEckbZ 10 ¼;k dksbZ Hkh p;fur VsLV yEckbZ½ gksxhA tSls gh ,saBu dks gVk;k tkrk gS uewuk c<+ tkrk gS rFkk lqbZ yEc voLFkk izkIr dj ysrh gS varr% lHkh ,saBu fudky nh tkrh gS ijUrq iats dk leku fn”kk esa ?kqekrs jguk pkfg, tc rd Ik;kZIr ,saBu vkus ij lqbZ iqu% okil “kwU; fpUg ij u vk tk;sA revolution counter ij dqy ,asBuksa dh la[;k dks nks ls Hkkx fn;k tkrk gS vFkkZr VsLV ysaUFk ls nks xq.kk bUpksa dh la[;kA blls /kkxs esa dqy ,saBu dk Kku gksxkA izfr vU; /kkxs esa ,sBu dk Lrj izkIr djus ds fy, bl la[;k dks iqu% nl ls Hkkx fd;k tkrk gSA
fp=. fp= 14.11 ,dy /kkxs ds fy, ,saBu VsLVj
7
nksgjs /kkxs ds fy, ,saBu VsLVj ¼fp= 14-12½A fp= 14-12 esa gLrpkfyr ,saBu VsLVj fn[kk;k x;k gS tks nksgjs rFkk cgqYM okys /kkxksa esa ,saBu dk Lrj Kkr djus ds fy, iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gS blesa iwoZ fuf”pr djus okys ik¡p vad ds x.kd ¼counter½ yxs gksrs gS tks ,saBu /kkxs esa ,saBu dh la[;k dks iathd`r djrs gS bl e”khu esa /kkxs dh ,saBu mrkjrs le; mlesa okafPNr ruu nsus dh O;oLFkk gksrh gS ljyrk ls ,saBu mrkjus rFkk [kqys gq, /kkxs dk vafre Nksj Kkr djus ds fy, e”khu esa vko/kZu djus okyk “kh”kk rFkk ,d /kkxk ns[kus okyh IysV yxh gksrh gS /kkxs dh ,saBu mrkjrs le; ruu dks O;ofLFkr djus dh O;oLFkk Hkh gksrh gS ftlls /kkxs dh ,saBu mrkjus ds le; ruu fLFkj Lrj ij ¼tension constant½ j[kk tk ldsA
fp=.14.12 nksgjs ;k cgqYM /kkxs ds fy, ,sBu VsLVj fp=
bl midj.k dh lgk;rk ls /kkxs ls ,saBu mrkjus dh vafre voLFkk dks ljyrk ls igpkuk tk ldrk gSA nksuksa jaw ds e/; izk;% 10” dh nwjh j[kh tkrh gS] ck¡;s vksj dh fn”kk dks Hkkj yVdk dj rFkk nk¡;h vksj dh fn”kk dks ,d gSZMy }kjk ruu ¼tension½ nh tkrh gS blesa ,d lery pfdz;k yxh gksrh gS tks jaws ds pDdjksa dh la[;k dks izR;{k n”kkZrk gS ekid dks fdlh Hkh fn”kk esa ?kqek;k tk ldrk gS tks gSMy ?kqekus dh fn”kk ij vk/kkfjr gksrk gS blesa ,d niZ.k ysat yxk gksrk gS tks /kkxs dh ,saBu mrkjus dh lgh vkWctosZ”ku ysus esa lgk;d gksrk gS s ,saBu ds fy, gSMy dks clock wise rFkk z ,saBu ds fy, anty clock wise ?kqek;k tkrk gS /kkxs dh ,saBu mrkjuk dks rc cUn fd;k tkrk gS tc rd nks lekUrj /kkxs fn[kkbZ u nsus yxsA bl fn”kk essa fiu ck¡;s ls nk¡;s jaw esa ljyrk ls tk ldrh gS jaw ds pDdjksa dh la[;k s ,saBu ds fy, ckg; Ldsy rFkk z ,saBu ds fy, vanj okyh Ldsy ls i<k tk ldrk gS PkDdjksas dh la[;k dks nl ij foHkDr djus ls gesa izfr bap ,saBuksa dh la[;k Kkr gks tkrh gSA
Lo;a tk¡p iz”u& 6- ,saBu mrjus ij /kkxk yEck D;ksa gks tkrk\
Xkfrfof/k 2- ,dy rFkk nksgjs /kkxs dh ,saBu ds fy, ,d gh VsLVj iz;ksx esa D;ksa ugha yk;k tk ldrk] bldh O;k[;k dfj;s \
1414-4-1 /kkxs dh ,d:irk ,d:irk dks tk¡puk ¼Yarn evenness test½ diM+s ds js”kksa rFkk /kkxksa dh Js"Brk esa fHkUurk ¼variation in fineness½ ds cgqr ls dkj.k gks ldrs gS ftuesa vf/kdrj mRiknu izfdz;k ls lEcfU/kr gksrs gS vfu;ferk,a VSDLVkby lkexzh ds cgqr ls xq.kksa dks izHkkfor dj ldrs gS] ftuesa lcls izR;{k fHkUurk 8
/kkxs dh etcwrh esa gksrh gS ;fn izfr bdkbZ yEckbZ dh ek=k dk e/;eku leku gks] ls vf/kd etcwr gksxkA vfu;fer /kkxk ,d leku /kkxs ls cqukbZ] drkbZ fufVax ,oa yPNs cukus esa vf/kd ckj VwVrk gS vleku /kkxs ds vU; y{k.k gS diM+s dh lrg ij fn[kus okyh =qfV;ka rFkk mÙkerk esa fHkUurk fQfu”kM diM+s ij lkQ fn[kkbZ nsrh gSA /kkxs dh vfu;ferrk ds dkj.k diM+s ds nwljs y{k.k tSls f?klkbZ feVVh dks idM+uk] vo”kks"kdrk] ijkofrZrk rFkk ped Hkh izHkkfor gksrs gSaA
fp=.14.13 fp= /kkxs dh ,d:irk dks tk¡puk
/kkxs dh lekurk ¼evenness½ Kkr djus dh cgqr fof/k;k¡ gS] lcls ljy fof/k esa ,d fuf”pr yEckbZ dkVuk rFkk /kkxs ds cgqr ls uewuksa dk Hkkj Kkr djukA ;g fof/k tfVy gS rFkk ;FkkFkZrk dh deh gSA rFkk bldk lhfer iz;ksx gksrk gS lcls lkekU; fof/k ftlls /kkxs dh lekurk dh fujUrj tk¡p gksrh jgrh gS tks /kkxs ds lekUkkUrj IysV ds e/; ls xqtkjus rFkk {kerk fujUrj bySDVksfudyh ekfuVfjax ij vk/kkfjr gS ¼fp= 14-13½A MkbysfDVªd dh ek=k esa cnyko ¼tks bl fo"k; esa dqpkyd /kkxk gS½] dUMsalj esa cnyko ykrk gS] ;g cnyko mifLFkr lkexzh dh ek=k dk vuqikrh gksrk gS USTER ] tks fLoVtjySaM dh dEiuh gS lekurk ekid dh eq[; fuekZrk gS rFkk bldks vf/kdrj iz;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gS ek=k esa izfr YkEckbZ bdkbZ ifjorZu ,d pkVZ ij fjdkMZ fd;k tkrk gS ftls Mk;xzke dgrs gSaA 78 d tex@20 fQykeSaV /kkxs dk Mk;xzke fp= 14-14 esa n”kkZ;k x;k gS /kkxs dh lekurk esa ifjorZu ¼vasibility in eveness½ ds vfrfjDr /kkxs esa feflax fQykkeSaV dks Hkh ge bl Mk;xzke }kjk ljyrk ls tku ldrs gSaA
fp=. fp= 14.14 vfrfjDr /kkxs esa feflax fQykkeSaV
/kkxs dh cukoV] ,d cksMZ ftl ij /kkxk yisVk tkrk gS ftls ;kuZ appearance board winder dgrs gS ¼fp= 14-15½ }kjk Hkh voyksdu fd;k tk ldrk gS cksMZ ij /kkxk fu;fer txg ij fyiVs Vªkaloflax xkbM bldks lqfuf”pr djrh gS blds Ik”pkr~ /kkxs dks ns[kdj voyksdu fd;k tkrk gS rFkk lVSMaªM xzsfMaax ls bldh rqyuk dh tkrh gS tks appearance index value nsrk gS tks A grade ds fy, 130 rFkk D grade ds fy, 60 gksrh gSA 9
fp=. fp= 14.15 A Yarn Appearance Board Winder
Lo;a tk¡p iz”u 7- /kkxs esas fdl izdkj dh vlekurk;sa ik;h tkrh gS\
Xkfrfof/k 3- fQykeSUV /kkxs esa dqN fQykeSaV YkEckbZ ds lkFk eksVs gksrs gSA ;g fdl izdkj /kkxs dh etcwrh dks izHkkfor djrs gS rFkk D;ksa\
1414-4-4 /kkxs dh <`<+rk ¼etcwrh½ ekiuk /kkxs dh etcwrh mldh ,d egRoiw.kZ fo”ks"krk gS ;g izk;% tensile testing machine }kjk ekih tkrh gSA
fp=. fp= 14.17 /kkxk VsLVj
10 fp=. fp= 14.16 ,dy ¼¼single yarn½½ /kkxk VsLVj
bl dkslZ ds ikB 2 esa etcwrh VsLV djus ewy fl)karks dh O;k[;k dh xbZ Fkh /kkxs dh etcwrh VsLV djus ds fy, ,dy ¼single yarn½ /kkxk VsLVj ¼fp= 14-16½ ;k lea (hank) ¼fp= 14-17½ eas n”kkZ;k x;k gS ,dy /kkxk VsLVj esa 20 lseh yEcs /kkxs dks Åij uhps ds jaws esa <`<+rk ls idM+k tkrk gS rFkk e”khu dks pykus ij uhps dk jaw rc rd fuf”pr pky ls pyrk jgrk gS tc rd /kkxk VwV ugha tkrkA Hkkj nh?khZdj.k ¼load elongation½ doZ] xzkQ isij ij cuk;k tk ldrk gS rFkk bl VsLV ls fofHkUu miyC/k parameter dk ewY;kadu ikB&2 esa nh xbZ O;k[;k ds vuqlkj fd;k tk ldrk gS buesa /kkxs ds izkjfHHkd ekM;wyt] VwVus ij nh?khZdj.k rFkk rksM+us dk cyk?kkr ¼breaking stress½ vFkkZr~ /kkxs dh etcwrhA lea strength tester esa 100 eh- ;k 120 eh- /kkxs dh yPNh rkus dh jhy ij cukbZ tkrh gS ftldk ?ksjk 1 eh- ;k 1-5 eh- gksrk gS yPNh dks igys vuqdwyu fd;k tkrk gS rFkk blds Ik”pkr~ bldks Åij rFkk uhps ds jaw dh gqd esa yxk fn;k tkrk gS dqN e”khuks aesa f?kjuh Hkh yxh gksrh gS e”khu pykdj yxkrj VsLV fd;k tkrk gS tc rd yPNh VwV u tk;sA vc Hkkj nh?khZdj.k doZ cuk;k tk ldrk gS nksuksa dsl esa 25 uewus VsLV fd;s tkrs gS rFkk e/;eku ewY;kadu dks uewus dk y{k.k fo”ks"krk eku fy;k tkrk gSA
Xkfrfof/k 4- nks ,dy ikWfy,sLVj fQykeSaVl ¼,d 5 Msfu;j rFkk nwljk 10 Msfu;j½ ftudk mRiknu bfrgkl leku gks ds VsUlkby VsLVj }kjk VsLV fd;k tkrk gS muds eSdsfud xq.kska dks leku ekurs gq, Hkkj nh?khZdj.k ¼load elogation½ doZ [khapksa tSlk vki bu fQykeSaVl ls vk”kk djrs gksA bu nksuksa fQykeSaVl dk LVSªl LVªsu dk nwljk doZ Hkh cukvksA
1414-5 nŸkdk;Z 1414-5-1 d{kkdk;Z (i) (ii)
vki lwrh js”ks dk Økl lSD”ku Kkr djus ds fy, D;k djksxs\ /kkxs dh lekurk ekius okyk ;a= fdl fl)kUr ij dk;Z djrk gS\
1414-5-2 x`g dk;Z (i) js”ks }kjk “kksf"kr tyd.k dks Kkr djus dh fof/k dk o.kZu djksA (ii) vki /kkxs dh lea strength dks dSls Kkr djksxs\
1414-5 lkjka”k bl ikB esa js”kksa rFkk /kkxksa dk pfj= fp=.k djus ds fy, VsLV djus rFk mudh dqN egRoiw.kZ fo”ks"krkvksa dk o.kZu fd;k x;kA buesa lwr ds fy, yEckbZ dk caVokjk ¼length distribution½ js”ks ds ykSxhV;wM RkFkk Økl lSD”ku dh tk¡p rFkk muds }kjk tyd.k iqu% “kksf"kr djus dks Kkr djuk gS /kkxs ds fy, yhfu;j ?kuRo rFkk dkmUV dk ekiu djuk] /kkxs esa ,saBu dh ek=k] ,d lekurk rFkk Hkkj nh?khZdj.k ¼ load elogation½ ij fopkj fd;k x;kA
1414-7 Lo;a tk¡p iz”uksa ds lHHkkfor mŸkj & 1- vkisf{kd vkæZrk 65+2% rFkk rkieku 25+2˚c 11
2- ekuofufeZr js”ks e”khu }kjk curs gS rFkk muds vk;ke esa fHkUurk buesa ifjorZu ds dkj.k mRiUu gksrh gSs% (i) iz;ksx dh xbZ lkexzh ls e”khu ls lEcfU/kr ifjorZu }kjk (ii) izfØ;k lEcU/kh ifjorZu D;ksafd bu rhuksa dks cgqr utnhdh lhek rd fu;fU=r fd;k tk ldrk gS blfy, mRikn ,d leku gksrk gS izkd`frd js”kksa vk;keksa esa vizs{kkd`r vf/kd ifjorZu”khy gksrs gS D;ksafd js”kksa dk fodkl tyok;q rFkk vU; ?kVdksa ij fuHkZj gS ftuesa vf/kd ifjorZu”khyrk gksrh gSA 3- yEckbZ ,oa lEHkkouk 4- Msfu;j tex ls 9 xq.kk cM+k gksrk gSA 5- 840 xt yEcs /kkxksa dh la[;k ftldk Hkkj ,d ikmUM~ gks] /kkxs dk English cotton count dgykrk gSA 6- Tkc /kkxs dks ,saBu nh tkrh gS rks js”kksas dk /kkxs ds v{k dh vksj >qdko c<+ tkrk gS ftlds ifj.kkeLo:Ik js”ks fldqM+ tkrs gS blfy, /kkxs dh ,saBu mrjus ij /kkxs dh yEckbZ c<+ tkrh gSA 7- /kkxs esa vlekurk] dPps eky esa fo"kerk] e”khu iSjkehVjt+ esa ifjorZu”khyrk rFkk izfdz;k lEcU/kh ifjorZu ds dkj.k gksrh gS blds ifj.kkeLo:Ik js”ks esa eksVk rFkk iryk Hkkx] VwVs gq, fQykEkSVl }kjk v”kqf);ka vkfn mRiUu gks tkrh gSA
1414-8 vH;klkFkZ iz”u & 1- js”ks ds dkSu dkSu ls eq[; xq.k@ fo”ks"krk,¡ Kkr djuk vko”;d gS bu ekidks esas ls fdlh ,d dk foLrkjiwoZd o.kZu dfj;s \ 2- /kkxksa ds dkSu dkSu ls egRoiw.kZ xq.kksa@ fo”ks"krkvksa dks Kkr djuk vko”;d gS muesa ls fdlh ,d dk foLrkj ls o.kZu dfj;sA
1414-9 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 1. Behera, B.K. (Ed.). 1999. Yarn Preparation for Handloom Weaving. Textile Dept., IIT, Delhi. 2. Wynne, A. 1997. Textiles. Macmillan Education Limited, London. 3. Booth J.E. 1996. Textile Testing. CBS Publishers and Distributors, New Delhi. 4. Kothari V.K. 2000. Textile Quality: An overview, in Quality control, 2000, Ed. V.K. Kothari, Textile Deptt., IIT Delhi
1414-11 “kCnkoyh 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Regain ¼jhxsu½ Tufts ¼V¶V~l ½ Co-efficient ¼dks&,fQf'k,aV ½ Worsted ¼olZVsM ½ Middle Lamella ¼feMy ysesyk ½ Hanks ¼gSaDl ½ Pivot ¼fioV ½
iqu% 'kksf"kr djuk /kkxs ds xqPNs@yPNs ,d fuf'pr u0 vFkkZr xq.kkad dksEcM+ ÅWu js'kksa ls cuk /kkxk iryh IysV yPNs /kqjh 12
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