202-L-12-H by mayank govil

ikB 12 fjihV rFkk vkW vkWyvks yvksoj fMt+kbu cukuk (WORKING WITH REPEATS AND ALL OVER DESIGNS)

lajpuk 1212-0 mÌs’; 12--1 çLrkouk 12 1212-2 fjihV~l cukuk

1212-2-1 cwVh dks fjihV djuk 1212-2-2 ckWMZj dks fjihV djuk

1212-3 vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu 1212-4 fMt+kbu Vªsl djuk rFkk diM+s ij VªkalQj djuk 12--5 fMt+kbu dk çLrqrhdj.k 12 1212-6 nRr dk;Z

1212-6-1 d{kk dk;Z 1212-6-2 x`g dk;Z

1212-7 lkjka’k 1212-8 Lo;a tk¡p ç’uksa ds lEHkkfor mRrj 12--9 vH;klkFkZ ç’u 12 1212-10 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 1212-11 'kCnkoyh

12 fjihV rFkk vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu cukuk (WORKING WITH REPEATS AND ALL OVER DESIGNS) ikB 10 ,oa 11 esa geus fMt+kbu dks cM+k rFkk NksVk djus ds fo"k; esa tkuk] diM+s dks cwVk] cwVh rFkk ckWMZj vyaÑr djus ds fy, midj.kksa dk ç;ksx djus dk v/;;u fd;kA bl ikB esa fMt+kbu esas cwVk ;k cwVh dh iqujko`fRr dSls dh tkrh gS] cwVh ;k cwVs dSls lkSan;Zijd diM+s dSls rS;kj fd;s tkrs gSa rFkk ckMZj vkfn cuk;s tkrs gSa dh v/;;u djsaxasA ge vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu cukus dk Hkh v/;;u djsaxsA

1212-0 mÌs’; (Objectives) bl ikB dk v/;;u djus ds i’pkr vki • fMt+kbu dks diM+s ij dSls j[kk tk;sA • bl ckr dks le>us esa fd fofHkUu izdkj ds fMt+kbu IyslesUV tSls& frjNh ykbuksa esa] [kM+h esa ;k iwjh lrg ij Hkjk gqvk vkfn ds }kjk diM+k dSlk yxsxkA

1212-1 çLrkouk (Introduction) fMt+kbu cukus ds i’pkr~ fMt+kbu dks fHkUu fHkUu çdkj ls j[k dj mlds çHkko dk v/;;u djuk cgqr vko’;d gSA ge uewus dks vusd çdkj ls fjihV dj ldrs gSaA cwVk] cwVh ;k ckWMZj ds fMt+kbu gesa diM+s ij fofHkUu çdkj ds vkHkkl ns ldrs gSaA bl çdkj fMt+kbu dh vafre çLrqrhdj.k dks fofHkUu fjihV dh çHkkoksa ds vuq:i cnyk tk ldrk gSA blls gesa vusd çdkj ds fMt+kbu cukus dk ekxZ feysxk ftldk laf{kIr o.kZu bl ikB esa fd;k tk;sxkA fMt+kbu Vªsl djus rFkk mls diM+s ij cukus ds igyqvksa ij Hkh fopkj fd;k tk,xkA

1212-2 fMt+kbu dks fjihV djuk (Working with Repeats) vusdksa vkd"kZd VsDLVkby mRiknksa esa fMt+kbu dh iqujko`fRr gksrh gSA cwVk] cwVh dh iqujko`fRr dk fof/k ¼tks ikB 11 esa i<+k;k x;k gS½ dk o.kZu vc fd;k tk;sxkA

1212-2-1 cwVh dh fjihV (Repeats for Buti)

fp= 1212-1 vkWy vksoj fMt+kbu

diM+s dks vyaÑr djus ds fy, cwVh dk ç;ksx fHkUu fHkUu çdkj ls fd;k tk ldrk gSA bu ij vc fopkj fd;k tk;sxkA

i) vkW yvksoj fjihV (All Over Repeat)%& vkWyvks

vkWyvksoj iqujko`fRr dk ç;ksx cgqr vf/kdrk ls gksrk gS tSls fp= 12-2 esaA fMt+kbu dh ,d bdkbZ ;k cwVh dks fdlh Hkh bdkbZ ¼cwVh½ ds Åij] uhps ;k cjkcj esa j[kk tk ldrk gSA • igyh bdkbZ dks j[kus ds i’pkr~ ge nwljh bdbZ ;k CykWd dh vksj vxzlj gksrs gSaA eksfVQ+ dks fMt+kbu esa 450 ij ?kM+h dh lwbZ dh fn’kk esa ?kqekrs gSa tSlk fd fp= 12-2 esa n’kkZ;k x;k gSA • •

fp= 1212-2 vkWyvksoj fjihV

ii) fczd ys;j fjihV (Brick Layer Repeat)

• ;s loZ lk/kkj.k iqujko`fRr gSA • baZV dh lrg okyh iqujko`fRr esa] bdkbZ;k¡ çR;{k:i esa ,d fo’ks"k bdkbZ ds Åij rFkk uhps j[kh tkrh gS ijUrq cjkcj ¼lkbM+½+ esa ubZ bdkbZ dks uhps dh vksj fxjrk gqvk j[kk tkrk gS ftlls bldk Åijh fdukjk igyh bdkbZ ds e/; esa feyrk gS tSlk fp= 12-3 esa n’kkZ;k x;k gSA

fp= 1212-3fczd ys;j fjihV

iii) ofVZdy fjihV (Vertical Repeat)

• ¼fp= 12-4½ bl çdkj dh iqujko`fRr esa bdkb;ksa dks ,d fo’ks"k bdkbZ dks Åij ;k uhps lh/ks yEc :i esa j[kk tkrk gS ijUrq bdkbZ ds nksuksa vksj ,d fuf’pr nwjh ykbuksa ds e/; NksM+ nh tkrh gSA

fp= 1212-4 ofVZdy fjihV

iv) gkWfjt+ jt+ksUVy fjihV (Horizontal Repeat)

• bl fjihV esa ¼fp= 12-5½ bdkbZ;ksa dks lh/kh ysVh js[kk esa j[kk tkrk gSA • çFke rFkk nwljh ykbu esa [kkyh txg NksM+h tkrh gSA

fp= 12sUVy fjihV 12-5 gkWfjt+kskUVy

• nks ykbuksa ds chp dh nwjh ,d bdkbZ dh yEckbZ ds cjkcj gksrh gSA • [kkyh txg ds ckn nwljh iafDr dh bdkb;k¡ j[kh tkrh gSA

v) bZDohfMLVsal fjihV (Equidistance Repeat)

• bl fjihV esa bdkbZ dks cjkcj nwjh ij igyh bdkbZ ds pkjksa vksj j[kk tkrk gSA

fp= 1212-6 bZDohfMLVsal fjihV vi) gkQ MªkWi fjihV (Half drop Repeat)

• •

;s cgqr lkekU; fjihV gSA bdkbZ;ksa dks ¼fp= 12-7½ ,d LFkku NksM+ dj ,d ds ckn ,d bdkbZ j[kh tkrh gSA

fp= 1212-7 gkQ MªkWi fjihV

vii) Mk;xksuy fjihV (Diagonal Repeat)

• bl fjihV esa bdkbZ;ksa frjNh :i esa j[kk tkrk gS rFkk muds e/; fuf’pr nwjh j[kh tkrh gSA

fp= 1212-8 Mk;xksuy fjihV

12MjZ dh fjihV (Repeats for Border) 12-2-2 ckW ckWMZ • igys ckMZj dk ,d fMt+kbu yxHkx 6" pkSMk cuk;sa ¼fp= 12-9½

fp= 12MjZ ds fy, fjihV 12-9 ckWMZ

• tc vki ,d ds ckn fMt+kbu Vsªl djrs gSa rks vki ns[ksaxs fd nks Vsªflaxt+ esa dksbZ Øe ;k iw.kZ feyku ugha gS ¼fp= 12-10½

fp= 1212-10 ckWMZj dh fjihV ds Vªsflax

• bl fLFkfr ls cpus ds fy, ;k iw.kZ feyku ds fy, igys fMt+kbu MªkW djsa rFkk blds i’pkr~ ckMZj ls vkjEHk ls NksVs Hkkx cuk;as ftlls ;g tkudkjh çkIr gksxh fd vxyh Vsªflax fdl Hkkx ls vkjEHk gksxhA

Lo;a tk¡p ç’u (Self-check Questions) 1. 2. 3.

Mk;xksuy fjihV rFkk gkQ MªkWi fjihV esa D;k vUrj gS\ vkWyvksoj fjihV dh ifjHkk"kk nhft;sA fuEufyf[kr fjihV ds uke fy[ksaA • bl fjihV esa] bdkb;k¡ lh/ks fo’ks"k bdkbZ ds Åij ,oa uhps j[kh tkrh gS ijUrq cjkcj ¼lkbM½+ esa ubZ bdkbZ ,d NksM+ dj j[kh tkrh gS ftlls bldk Åijh fdukjk igyh bdkbZ ds e/; esa vk;sA • bl fjihV eas] bdkb;ksa dks lh/ks ,d fo’ks"k bdkbZ ds Åij rFkk uhps j[kk tkrk gSA • bl fjihV esa bdkbZ dks igyh bdkbZ ds pkjksa vksj leku nwjh ij j[kk tkrk gSA

xfrfof/k (Activity) 1- dkVZwu eksfVQ+ dh lgk;rk ls ,d ulZjh fçaV cuk;s tks fczd ys;j fjihV ds vk/kkj ij cusaA

12yvksoj fMt+kbu (An All Over Design) 12-3 vkW vkWyvks tSlk fd bl fMt+kbu ds uke ls vHkkl gksrk gS fd ;g fMt+kbu diM+s ds iwjs Hkkx ¼eq[; Hkkx½ dks doj dj ysrk gSA fMt+kbu lrg dks nks Hkkxksa esa ck¡Vk tk ldrk gS lkeus okyh rFkk i`"BHkwfeA i`"BHkwfe diM+s dk vk/kkj rFkk Åijh lrg ml ij fMt+kbu gksrk gSA fMt+kbu okyh lrg tc i`"BHkwfe ls vf/kd gks rks mls vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu dgrs gSa ¼fp= 12-11½A nwljs 'kCnksa esa vkyvksoj

fp= 1212-11 vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu

fMt+kbu i`"BHkwfe dks iw.kZ:i ls <d ysrk gS] mldk dqN gh Hkkx ;k dqN Hkkx Hkh ugha fn[kkbZ iM+rkA ;gk¡ igys fMt+kbu eas i`"BHkwfe fn[kkbZ ugha nsrh tcfd nwljs fMt+kbu esa yky iksih Qwyksa ds lkFk lkFk uhyh i`"BHkwfe Hkh fn[kkbZ iM+rh gSA ;g nksuksa fMt+kbu vkyvksoj Js.kh ds varxZr vkrs gSaA 8

vkWy vksoj fMt+kbu cukus ds fy, fuEufyf[kr pj.kksa dk vuqdj.k dj ldrs gSaA • dkxt dk ,d oxkZdkj VqdM+k ysaA • bldks vk/ks ls eksM+sa rFkk [kksysa ¼fp= 12-12½A • vc vk/ks Hkkx ds vk/ks nksuksa vksj ls eksM+sa ¼fp= 12-13½A • eksM+s x;s Hkkx ij fMt+kbu cukuk vkjEHk djsaA

fp= 1212-12 isij dks [kksfy,

• fMt+kbu MªWk djus ds i’pkr~ dkxt+ dks [kksysaA • iqu% dkxt+ dks nwljh nksuksa lkbMksa ¼nwljs nksuksa fdukjksa½ ls mlh çdkj eksMs+A • fMt+kbu MªkW djus ds i’pkr~ iqu% [kksysaA • dkxt+ dks [kksyus ij vki ns[ksaxs dh mlds e/; Hkkx dk NksMdj pkjksa vksj fMt+kbu cu x;k gSA • vc e/;Hkkx esa fMt+kbu cuk,a rFkk fMt+kbu dh pkjksa fn’kkvksa dks e/; Hkkx ds fMt+kbu ls feyk nsaA

fp= 1212-13 eqMk gqvk isij

fp= 1212-4 iwjk fMt+kbu

vc fMt+kbu iwjk gks x;k ¼fp= 12-14½ ijUrq vc Hkh ;g v/kwjk çrhr gksrk gSA blfy, vkb;s vc ge Vªsflax rFkk VªkWlQfjax }kjk fMt+kbu dks iwjk djuk lh[ksaA

1212-4 fMt+kbu Vªsl djuk rFkk mls diM+s ij mrkjuk (Tracing and Transferring a Design) • vki ns[k ldrs gSa fd fMt+kbu dh pkjksa fn’kk;sa v/kwjh gSaA fMt+kbu dks iwjk djus ds fy, bldh pkjksa fn’kkvksa dks a,b,c,d fpfUgr djsaA • Vªsflax isij dh lgk;rk ls fMt+kbu dks nwljs isij ij Vªsl djsaA • iqu% ‘a’ fn’kk ds fMt+kbu dks ‘b’ fn’kk ds ckn Vªsl djsaA • vc ,d vksj dk fMt+kbu iw.kZ gks x;k ijUrq nwljh vksj dk fMt+kbu v/kwjk gSA • vki nwljh vksj ds fMt+kbu dks ,d ds ckn nwljk fMt+kbu cuk dj iwjk dj ldrs gSaA • blds i’pkr~ vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu cu dj fp= 1212-15 jaxhu fMt+kbu rS;kj gSA 9

• vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu dk ,d vkSj igyw ;g gS fd blds vkjEHk vkSj vUr dh fjihV Vªsl djuk cgqr dfBu gSA • ;g fMt+kbfuax dk cgqr lk/kkj.k fof/k gS ¼fp= 12-15½A vki bu fMt+kbuksa dks csMdoj] ifj/kku lkexzh] fp=] dEcy] dkyhu] ijns vkfn ij ns[k ldrs gSaA

1212-5 fMt+kbu dk çLrqrhdj.k (Presentation of Design) ,d fMt+kbuj vius fMt+kbu bl çdkj rS;kj djrk gS fd og mlds fopkjksa rFkk ,d fo’ks"k oLrq ds fMt+kbu dks iw.kZ :i ls vfHkO;Dr djsa mnkgj.kkFkZ ,d ifj/kku] Mªsl eSVhfj;y ;k nhokj ij yVdkus okys fp=] dejs dh lTtk dh oLrq,a vkfnA çLrqrhdj.k lHkh igyqvksa ls iw.kZ gksuk pkfg,A iksVZQksfy;ks rS;kj djus ds fy, gesa fuEufyf[kr pj.kksa dk vuqlj.k djuk pkfg,A • loZçFke vafre mRikn ;k oLrq dk ckgjh vkjs[k ¼vkmV ykbu½ cuk;saA • blds i’pkr~ oLrq ds vuqlkj fMt+kbu cuk,saA ;g fMt+kbu ,d vksojvkWy ;k fjihV ds :i esa cuk,aA • fMt+kbu dks vafre :i nsus ds i’pkr~ dyj Ldhe dks pqusaA • 9"x 9" vkdkj dh vkbojh 'khV ij iwjs fMt+kbfuax dks jaxksa lfgr cuk,aA • vc ,d NksVs Hkkx dks cM+k djsa ftlls vkÑfr rFkk jaxksa dh Li"Vrk fn[kkbZ iM+s ;g dk;Z 3"x 3" ds CykWd es abl 'khV ij ,d dksus esa djsaA • var esa ;g fMt+kbu ,d MªkWbax 'khV ij cuk;sa ¼fp= 12-16½A • vc bl çdkj ds cus uewus dks fdlh diM+s ij ;k og diM+k ftl ij vki fMt+kbu cukuk pkgrs gSa mls <wa<s rFkk lanHkZ d fy, bl diM+s dk swatch blds lkFk yxk;saA • fMt+kbu esa ç;ksx fd;s jax dks fn[kk;as tks ,d NksVs NksVs CykWDl esa fMt+kbu ds uhps gksA

fp= 12 12-16 fMt+kbu dk izLrqrhdj.k

• vc vkids ikl fMt+kbu vafre mRikn dk Hkko] dyj LØhu rFkk diM+s dk swatch miyC/k gSaA 10

Lo;a tk¡p ç’u (Self-check Questions) 4- vkyvksoj fMt+kbu D;k gksrk gS\ 5- ckWMZj ds fy, fjihV dh O;k[;k djsaA

xfrfof/k (Activity) 2- de i`"BHkwfe n’kkZrs gq, ,d vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu cuk;sA bl fMt+kbu dk lkj Qwy okyk uewuk gks rFkk ml ij frrfy;k¡ gks rFkk bl fMt+kbu dks ,d çkFkfed jax ls cuk,sas ¼tSls yky] ihyk ;k uhyk½ blds fVUV~l] Vksu~t+ rFkk 'ksM+t ~ dk ç;ksx djsaA

1212-6 nRr dk;Z (Assignments) 1212-6-1 d{kk dk;Z (Class Assignments) i) T;kseSfVªdy rFkk Qwyokyh vkÑfr;ksa ls vkWyvksoj] Mk;xksuy rFkk ofVZdy fjihV~l dk ç;ksx

djrs gqq, ,d 'khV cuk;saA ii) ,d ckWMZj cuk;sa ftlesa 6" ckMZj dk fjihV gksA

1212-6-2 x`g dk;Z (Home Assignments) i) cPps ds dejs ds fy, ,d csM’khV dk vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu cukb,A

1212-7 lkjka’k (Summing Up) igys ikBksa esa fMt+kbu dks NksVk ;k cM+k djus rFkk diM+s dks vyaÑr djus dh rduhd dk v/;;u fd;k x;kA bl ikB esa geus fjihV rFkk vkWyvksoj fMt+kbuksa rFkk mlds çLrqrhdj.k dk v/;;u fd;kA ges N% çdkj dh iqujko`fRr rduhdksa vFkkZr~ vkyvksoj] gkWQ Mªki] bZDoh fMLVasl okys] ofVZdy] gkWfjtksUVj] fczd ysbZax rFkk Mk;xksuy fjihV ds fo"k; ij fopkj fd;kA

1212-8 Lo;a tk¡p ç’uksa ds lEHkk lEHkkfor mRrj (Possible Answers to Selfcheck Questions) 1)

vk/kh txg NksM+ dj cuus okyh fjihV esa (halfdrop repeat) bdkbZ;k¡ ¼cwVh½ ,d LFkku NksM+dj ,d ds ckn j[kh tkrh gSA Mk;xksuy (diagnal) fjihV esa bdkb;ksa Mk;xksuy ¼frjNh½ esa j[kh tkrh gSa ftlesa fuf’pr nwjh j[kh tkrh gSA vkWyvksoj fjihV vf/kdrj ç;ksx esa ykbZ tkrh gSA bl çdkj dh fjihV esa bdkb;k¡ ¼cwfV;k¡½ çR;{k :i ls ,d fuf’pr bdkbZ ds Åij] uhps rFkk nksuks vksj j[kh tkrh gSA igyh bdkbZ dks j[kus ds i’pkr~ nwljh bdkbZ ;k CykWd dh vksj pyus ds fy, vkÑr;ksa dks fMt+kbu esa 450 ij DykWdokbt+ ?kqek;k tkrk gSA 11

fczd ysbaZx fjihV] vkWyvksoj fjihV] bZDoh fMLVasl fjihVA

vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu diM+s dks vf/kdrj <d ysrk gSA bl fMt+kbu dks nks Hkkxksa eas ck¡Vk tk ldrk gS] i`"BHkwfe rFkk Åijh Hkkx (back ground and fore ground)A i`"BHkwfe diM+s dh lrg gksrh gS rFkk Åijh Hkkx bl ij cuk fMt+kbu gksrk gSA tc fMt+kbu okyk Åijh Hkkx i`"BHkwfe ls vf/kd gksrk gks rks ;g vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu dgykrk gS ¼fp= 12-11½A nwljs 'kCnksa esa vkWyvksoj fMt+kbu esa i`"BHkwfe dks Hkj nsrk gS rFkk i`"BHkwfe fn[kkbZ ugha nsrhA

ckWMZj fjihV ds fy, loZçFke yxHkx 6" pkSMs+ ckWMZj dk fMt+kbu MªkW djsaA tc vki fMt+kbu dks ,d ds ckn nwljk Vªsl djsaxs] vki ns[ksaxs fd nksuksa Vªsflax esa fujUrjrk rFkk feyku ugha gSA bl voLFkk ls cpus ds fy, ;k iw.kZ feyku ds fy,] igys fMt+kbu vkmVykbu cuk, rFkk mlds ckn ckMZj ds vkjEHk ds NksVs Hkkx dks MªkW djsa ftlls çrhr gksxk fd vkxs okyh Vªsflax bl Hkkx ls vkjEHk gksxhA

bl iw.kZ dh ;g

1212-9 vH;klkFkZ ç’u (Terminal Questions) 1) 2) 3)

fMt+kbu ds çLrqrhdj.k dh O;k[;k djsaA vkyvksoj fMt+kbu cukus dh rduhd dk o.kZu djsaA fuEufyf[kr fo"k; ij ys[k fy[ksa% • vkyvksoj fjihV] • gkWQMªksi fjihV] • bZDoh fMLVsaUl fjihV]

1212-10 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa (Suggested Further Reading and References) 1. Belfer, N. 1992. Batik and Tie Dye Techniques, 3rd Rev. Ed. Dover Publications, New York. 2. Fisher, R, and Wolfthal, D. 1987. Textile Print Design. Fairchild, New York. 3. Johnston, M. P. and Kaufman, G. 1981. Design on Fabrics, 2nd Ed. Prentice Hall, New York. 4. Joyce, C. 1993. The Complete Guide to Printed Textiles for Apparel and Home Furnishings. Watson-Guptill, New York. 5. Lassiter, N. and Lassiter, F. 1977. Screen Printing: Contemporary methods and materials. Hunt Manufacturing, Philadelphia. 6. Proctor, R.M. and Lew, J. F. 1984. Surface Design for Fabric. University of Washington Press, Seattle. 7. Stein, V. 1969. Batik as A Hobby. Sterling, New York. 8. Storey, J. 1978. The Thames and Hudson Manual of Dyes and Fabrics. Thames & Hudson, London. 12

9. Storey, J. 1992. The Thames and Hudson Manual of Textile Printing. Thames & Hudson, London. 10. Yates, M. 1986. A Handbook for Designers. Prentice Hall, New York.

1212-11 'kCnkoyh (Glossary) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

fjihV gkWfjtksUVy ofVZdy Mk;xkuy bZDohfMLVasl vkWy vksoj fczd ysf;ax

,d gh uewus] cwVs ;k fMt+kbu dks ckj ckj cukuk A {kSfrt ;k ysVh gqbZ js[kk yEcor ;k [kM+h js[kk frjNh leku nwjh ij iwjs esa QSyh gqbZ bZaVksa dh rjg yxh gqbZ