St. Petersburg In Your Pocket June/July'15 by Russia In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

St. Petersburg June - July 2015

White nights are back! Enjoy the best rooftop terraces and open air festivals

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NÂ°100

Parks and Palaces Visit the former homes of the Tsars th 100 issue!

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Konyushennaya area Nevsky prospekt Restaurants in hotels

32 34 36 37

Foreword

Nightlife

In the News

Bars and clubs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; how to stay out till 6 a.m.

Arrival & Getting Around

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 12 Rock summer 12 Summer festivals 14 Exhibitions 16

Features

What to see 40 The essentials 40 Modern art centres 41 Museums 42 Where to stay 52 Interview with concierge

Shopping

55 56

Russian souvenirs

Expat & Lifestyle 57

Krestovsky, Yelagin & Petrovsky islands 18 The expat experience Hermitage 250 years 44 Hidden museums 46 Maps & Index St. Petersburgâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historical outskirts 48 City map Street index Where to eat 23 Metro map Roof top terraces 26 Rubinshteina street 30 Moscow

58 60 62 63 64

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June - July 2015

Foreword It’s official now. Summer is here. After the traditionally long (maybe even too long) winter we can now finally relax and enjoy the magical midnight sun and the famous white nights. You can walk through the green islands not far away from the center (did you know that that our city is literally built on islands? Find more on page 18). You can visit new exhibitions and open-air festivals (page 14). You can have cocktails on the city’s best rooftop terraces (page 26). You can watch the bridges rise (see the schedule on page 8) and get wet in the famous fountains of Peterhof (page 51). You can devour a perfect Russian shashlik at a street-side café and enjoy the classic sunbathing experience at the Peter and Paul Fortress beach. You’ve made a good choice because summer is the best time to be in St. Petersburg! This charming 310 year-old city has managed to preserve its beauty and glory despite neglect during the Soviet period and the siege by the Germans during WWII. It is still one of the most stunning cities in the world and one of the largest in Europe. And I am happy that you can see it with your own eyes! With so many activities and so many places to see there’s something for everyone to enjoy. So, what are you waiting for? Join the crowd of happy tourists and locals and have fun! The city is open 24/7 and it is waiting for you! This edition of St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is our 100th issue and we are very proud that we have come so far! It is such a great feeling to be able to share our experiences with you, our dear readers, help you with your adventures and make your stay in St. Petersburg unforgettable. We would like to thank you all for your support! And now we are going to celebrate, and so are you we hope! Have fun and enjoy summer! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket

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St. Petersburg In Your E SPocket S E N TI A L founded and published C I by T YOOO G Krasnaya U I D E SShapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Editor-in-Chief Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Director Ilya Timshin, ilya.timshin@inyourpocket.com Sales Manager Alexander Reshetov, alex.r@inyourpocket.com Contributors Sabina Macari, Maria Stambler Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 5 times per year with supplements, No 100, 01.06.2015, 90.000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story A sky full of colorful umbrellas in St. Petersburg’s center is a delight to the eyes! The Umbrella Sky Project is an annual art installation that came to St. Petersburg from Portugal. You can see it on Solyanoy pereulok (metro Chernyshevskaya) until the middle of June. Photo by Ksenia Govorun.

About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also been applying the finishing touches to our new digital platform at inyourpocket. com. Radically redesigned and restructured to place the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover, our new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

In the News Russia day June 12 is another opportunity to relax and enjoy the Russian lifestyle. The day officially celebrates the Russian Federation declaring independence from the Soviet Union back in 1990 but most Russians seem to agree that this is more a pretext for enjoying summer rather bearing a deeper, political meaning. Concerts and fireworks are the order of the day, accompanied by good friends and the obligatory toasts. Government awards are also given out on this day as Russians celebrate what it means to be Russian.

Leningrad Center – your new urban playground! Leningrad Center (situated in the historic center that was once “Leningrad” cinema) is a new concert, arts, restaurant and events venue equipped with the latest in technological developments in the culture and entertainment sphere. Basically, your urban playground. The small stage will host a range of acoustic gigs, experimental shows and smaller scale theater performances, while the gallery will present the works of the trendiest and most promising foreign and local artists as well as master-classes and discussions. Already on the bill: “Illusio” musical show, which combines the musical show genre with classic ballet, live music and circus, folk and multimedia art. And that’s just the beginning - stay tuned for more art and fun! www.leningradcenter.ru

Container street “Container Street” is the newest brainchild of St. Petersburg’s creative minds. The name is precise and straight to the point: literally a 1020 square meter space inside the inner courtyard on Ligovsky pr. 74, which is lined with 54 containers that were specially designed to provide a platform for up-andcoming local businesses to practice their respective craft and offer their services. A true testament to the latest trend of “cargotecture” that have been popping up from London to Amsterdam to Israel, you can find shops selling local brands, street food spots, bars, bicycle rental, offices and lecture rooms. So go on, get lost and found in the city of the future! www.vk.com/container_street Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Ксения Элзес Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.

Big news from the restaurant big boys Ginza Project is proud to present some new additions to its restaurant and bar family. Gastronomica: a spacious panoramic restaurant with an interesting modern European menu. Pryanosti i Radosti on Belinskogo, 5: overlooking the Church of Simeon and Anna through its sleek panoramic windows, the restaurant boasts an imaginative mix of European and Central Asian culinary treats. Another Pryanosti i Radosti is also now open Vasilievsky Island and has an extension in the form of the Salad Bar with democratically priced fresh food. Skoro Vesna: a dynamic wine bar with live DJ sets by night and awakening espressos, ristrettos and cappuccinos together with delicious pastries by day. Nasha Dacha: outside the city on Primorskoe Shosse and as the name suggests, this is the perfect place to spend a wonderful summer day with outdoor activities and great food. And finally Lombard: designed in a “speak easy” and “hello 1950’s” style, Lombard is a bar with good food or, on the other hand, a restaurant with good drinks. www.ginza.ru/spb

Technology, science and the arts Geeky is the new cool and Geek Picnic (June 13-14 in Moscow and June 20-21 in St. Petersburg) is proof of that. An independent Russian project created severals years ago by enthusiasts who believe that the future is here and now, this year’s Geek Picnic is set to be bigger than ever and aims to explore the theme of global cyborgization. Ethical, technological and scientific questions will be discussed and the highlight of the event will be Russia’s first ever gathering of people who have prosthetic limbs to share their knowledge and experience! Other big names such as Victoria Modesta, Neil Harbisson, Jens Naumann and Jason Barnes are set to take to the stage. www.msk.geek-picnic.ru

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации ПИ № ТУ78-01705 от 13.05.15 выдано Федеральной службой по надзору в сфере связи, информационных технологий и массовых коммуникаций (Роскомнадзор). Тираж 90 000 экз. No100. 01.06.2015

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June - July 2015

Arriving & Getting Around St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - both attractive and efficient - and is the fastest way to get across town or into the centre of the city. If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your way from the metro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the routes and when to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.

Arriving in town Arriving by bus St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you know where you are going before you leave. The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr. Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into the metro system. To find your way into the city centre make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops. The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest metro station or take a taxi. Arriving by car Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents for the car and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At

BRIDGES Bridges going up… Dvortsovy

01:25 - 02:50

03:10 - 04:55

Blagoveshchensky

01:25 - 02:45

03:10 - 05:00

Sampsonievsky

01:30 - 04:30

Grenadersky

01:30 - 04:30

Kantemirovsky

01:30 - 04:30

Troitsky

01:35 - 04:50

Liteiny

01:40 - 04:45

Birzhevoy

02:00 - 04:55

Tutchkov

02:00 - 02:55

Bolsheokhtinsky

02:00 - 05:00

Volodarsky

02:00 - 03:45

Alexandra Nevskogo 02:20 - 05:10 Finlyandsky 8

02:20 - 05:30

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

03:35 - 04:55 04:15 - 05:45

the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h. The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank. The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost 500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English, which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy. In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road conditions often force you to drive more carefully and thus more slowly. Arriving by plane St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find your way into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been known to cause heart failure! Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25 minutes depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town (another seven stops in the metro – about 15-20 minutes). Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro system if you need to find a particular station. If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl. Arriving by train Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the metro station nearest your destination. Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi. Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky. There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need. Baltisky station QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Finlyandsky station QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Ladozhsky station QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Moskovsky station QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Vitebsky station QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Public transport Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets from the conductor or driver (28Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 36Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ driver. St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 31Rbl and can be bought from the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving and queue-cutting. Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leathercovered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, they go just about everywhere within the city and out to the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare (up to 36Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you. When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.

TaxiS Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have English-speaking operators but in many big companies you can book a taxi online: Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru June - July 2015

City Basics Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovetskoe shampanskoe (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol above 0,5% in shops between 22:00 and 11:00.

Health and Safety Russian drivers are your biggest danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first.

Be on guard! Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and (+7) 812 303 05 55.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Climate

The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

In June and July, during St. Petersburg’s glorious White Nights, the city’s weather is usually at its best. Temperatures range from the low to mid teens at night (what little of it the city sees anyway) to warm and pleasant temperatures in the mid 20s during the day. Sudden storms and the occasional cloudy and windy day mean it’s best to be prepared – think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price. 10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

Money

Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)

Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

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Language useful phrases

pocket dictionary: Belye Nochi Eternal daylight comes to St. Petersburg at the end of May when the White Nights (belye nochi) begin. During the belye nochi many locals begin to suffer from bessonitsa (insomnia) and the desire to stay out and have fun gets stronger. At its peak (usually during the first weeks of June) St. Petersburg, which is positioned on the 59thb parallel, usually only sees about one or two hours of a kind half-darkness. So prepare to say ‘do svidaniya’ (goodbye) to your ‘vnutrennie chasy’ (body clock)!

numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

odin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

odinatsat dvenatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shestnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat

30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000

tritsat sorok pyatdesyat shestdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysyacha

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

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Basic phrases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Help! I need some help I don't want

Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts! Bolno! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko? What time is it? Katory chas? Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль June - July 2015

Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After spending a day hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night you choose.

theatres Alexandrinsky Theatre QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru. Mariinsky Theatre QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Saint Petersburg Opera QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru.

ROCK SUMMER 11.06 Thursday 20:00 Children of Bodom Children of Bodom are a melodic death metal band and one of Finland’s best selling artists of all-time. The ability to combine many different musical styles has brought them wide recognition on both sides of the ocean. Each of the groups seven albums have reaching Gold or Platinum status in their native Finland and have also charted in the US Billboard. With many previous sold out performances, Children of Bodom are returning to Russia, catch them performing at Club A2 on June 11th.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.cobhc.com. Tickets 1,800 - 3,000Rbl.

concert halls and clubs Aurora concert hall QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru. Club A2 QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm. Club Cosmonavt QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su. Grand Philharmonic Hall QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Jazz Philharmonic Hall QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. JFC Jazz Club QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. Jimi Hendrix Blues Club QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru. Ledovy Dvorets QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru. Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 13 00, www.bkz.ru. Sport Concert Complex (SKK) QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 10, www.spbckk.ru. Yubileiny Sports Palace QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru. Zal Ozhidaniya QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com. 12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

27.06 Saturday 20:00 Papa Roach To Russia, with love. And rock. Papa Roach, one of everyone’s favorite first rock bands, which needs little introduction, is coming back to the Motherland to present their new album F.E.A.R. (Face Everything and Rise). Papa Roach came into being during a very interesting time music-wise, when Nu-Metal met Rapcore. Over the years the band’s initial fans grew and matured and the band did so with them, turning their sound more towards alternative metal. This tour is not only a presentation of their new album, but a retrospective of their more than 20 year long career throughout which the boys brought their energetic and dynamic live shows to perfection.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.paparoach.com. Tickets 2,200 - 4,200Rbl.

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Culture & Events 30.06 Tuesday 20:00 Rise Against RiseAgainst formed in 1999 in Chicago, are a melodic hardcore band with punk rock sound. The group found mainstream success with their debut album in 2004 and since then many of their singles have become hits. Describing their own music as ‘thought-provoking’, they urge listeners to associate their lyrics with current events, which often address important issues such as pollution, natural disasters and the issue of homophobia. They will be performing tracks from their new album ‘TheBlackMarket’ as well as old favorites at their upcoming concert in St. Petersburg.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.riseagainst.com. Tickets 1,800 - 4,000Rbl.

THE ART OF NATURAL THERAPY

A SANCTUARY OF SERENITY AND SENSES WORLD KNOWN HOLISTIC SPA IN THE HEART OF THE CITY Nevsky Centre, 6 floor, Nevsky pr,114-116 +7 812 449 08 36, +7 911 293 00 27 www.thann-spa.ru 18.07 Saturday 20:00 Yann Tiersen Breton musician and multi-instrumentalist, Yann Tiersen became famous outside his native France after the resounding success of the film ‘Amelie’ for which he recorded the soundtrack. Considered to be a reformer of modern music, each live performance is different, though audiences are always guaranteed a musical celebration. His eighth studio album ‘∞’ (Infinity) was released in 2014 and displays the genius of his work. Tracks from ‘infinity’ will be performed at Yann Tiersen’s upcoming St. Petersburg concert. The program also promises tracks from ‘Amelie’, which he has not played for many years.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.yanntiersen.bzh. Tickets 1,000 - 4,200Rbl.

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Kasabian

14.07 Tuesday English rock band Kasabian, whose numerous hits include Club Foot’ and ‘LSF’ will be performing at GlavClub on July 14th. Formed in Leister, 1997, the band draw comparisons with rock legends The Stone Roses, Primal Scream and Oasis. Their previous four albums topped the UK charts and they were main headliners at the 2014 Glastonbury Festival. The Q awards named Kasabian ‘Best Live Act’ and ‘Best Act In The World Today’ in 2010 and 2014, their upcoming concert in St. Petersburg is guaranteed to be a hit.QD-1, GlavClub, ul. Professora Popova 47, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 10 30, www.kasabian.co.uk. Tickets 3,000 - 10,000Rbl. June - July 2015

Culture & Events Endless Summer Fun When it comes to having fun in the sun, Petersburgers know how to do it best, making the most of the endless days courtesy of the White Night effect. With an array of events and festivals on offer, catering for all tastes and styles, we have compiled a cross-section below of the best upcoming events. All that’s left for you to do now is to try and keep up with the city that doesn’t sleep all summer long! Through August 2 The 23d Stars of the White Nights Festival The popular Stars of the White Nights Festival, at the famed Mariinsky Theater, is a cultural highlight that runs throughout the summer. Now in its 23d year, the playbill includes a number of operas, ballets and symphonies, giving locals and tourists their Russian culture fix. www. mariinsky.ru

Through July 8 The 10th International Musical Collection Festival The International Festival “Musical Collection” celebrates its tenth anniversary. To mark the event, the audience will be treated something special. The vast and varied anniversary program lists twenty-four concerts by the best national and foreign performers. By tradition, the first and final concert of the festival will be conducted by Maestro Yuri Temirkanov and the closing of the Philharmonic Season on July 8th, under his direction, will feature Ravel‘s Piano Concerto ‘Mother Goose’ performed by famous French pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet. Famous conductors, organists and soloists are likely to decorate festival posters and The Boris Berezovsky Recital on June 18th, will see him play various pieces including Rachmaninoff’s ‘Sonata No 2’. Other highlights include an appearance by two beautiful opera singers from Argentina: soprano Marina Silva and tenor Darío Volonté, who join the orchestra on June 6th. The full anniversary program is available online at: www. philharmonia.spb.ru

cinema If you are looking for a night at the movies without having to play some sophisticated form of charades to work out what’s going on - we have good news for you. There are now cinemas in St. Petersburg that show movies in English or their original language. If you are looking for a truly English experience you can’t pass up a screening at the Angleterre which now shows all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora. Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if you want to chill out with a good movie in English or practice one of your other languages, check out these cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies. Angleterre Cinema Lounge QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www. angleterrecinema.ru. Avrora QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942 80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru. Dom Kino QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru. Formula Kino Galeria QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www. formulakino.ru. 14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

June 30 – July 10 The 17th International Open Look Dance Festival Founded in 1999, “Open Look” has come a long way, from its beginnings as summer dance school to becoming the most anticipated dance event in the cultural capital, with performances from the best dance companies and choreographers from around the world. This years headliner is Nederlands Dans Theater, one of the most upscale repertory theaters of modern dance and ‘the one to see’ according to The New York Times. In addition, the festival organizers plan to ‘go to town’ arranging dance master classes and special outdoor activities for the whole family. www.open-look.ru

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Culture & Events July 4 – July 5 Night of Music in Gatchina On July 4th-5th Gatchina Palace Park will for the sixth time play host to a gala concert entitled “Night of Music in Gatchina”. In its four years of existence it has already become a noted event in St. Petersburg’s summer music calendar and proved one of the most memorable outdoor concerts in Russia. With a setting by the White Lake, amid the majestical Gatchina Palace, the symphonic music, historical architecture and natural landscape come together in striking harmony providing a truly unforgettable experience. The concert attracts over 15,000 people annually from St. Petersburg and other regions of Russia. www. gatchinapalace.ru

GREENFEST

July 4 – July 5 Stereoleto

21.06 Sunday MUSE, ‘The Best Live Band in the World’ according to Time Out Sydney, a group that embodies the power and sophistication of modern British rock, are headliners at this years GREENFEST festival! GREENFEST is known for hosting only the most relevant international and Russian musicians, and Muse is no exception. Muse live performances are legendary, with large-scale shows, powerful lighting and visuals and are recognized as one of the most spectacular on the modern rock scene. Their new album is scheduled for release in 2015 and it is hoped the St. Petersburg audience will be among the first hear their new material. Muse will be supported by one of the three great pillars of Icelandic music, along with Björk and Sigur Rós, GusGus and the romantic Finnish rock band Poets of the Fall.QC-2, Petrovsky Stadium, Petrovsky ostrov 2, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. greenfest.ru. Tickets 2,500 - 6,000Rbl.

Russia’s most important musical festival Stereoleto, now in its fourteenth year, returns to Yelagin Island on 4-5th July. Once again playing host to an impressive array of artists, the highlight of which is undoubtedly rock band Aquarium, the embodiment of St. Petersburg’s modern musical heritage. Other names include London art-pop collective The Irrepressibles, Swedish sensation Jennie Abrahamson, Ivan Dorn and Quentin Tarantino’s favorite Band- Lola Marsh from Tel Aviv. Altogether over 30 artists will take to one of the three stages over the course of two days. Complete with an art market, children’s area and many surprises awaiting guests, Stereoleto is the perfect place to spend a summer’s day with family and friends. www.bestfest.ru Usadba Jazz Festival The Usadba Jazz festival once again unites the brightest musicians from around the world, in various genres from traditional jazz to indie folk. In its fourth year, it is already a known meeting place for music lovers. Festival headliners this year include five-time Grammy winner, the legendary Cuban pianist Chucho Valdés and an exciting set by one of the most versatile pianists Nik Bärtsch, the inventor of ‘Zen-Funk’. Program names also include ‘The Voice’ winner Mariam Merabova and promising indie-folk group Malinen. Usadba Jazz is the ideal summers day out, with a food court, playground and workshops – there is fun for the whole family. www.usadba-jazz.ru

July 11 14:00 Royal Festival of Colors The Royal Festival of Colors is a one-day festival filled with happy faces. People come together celebrating joy, love, freedom and emancipation. Colorful powders fill the sky and hundreds donning white robes head to the ‘Arsenal’ stadium waiting to be painted. Sounds of indie rock will fill the stadium, a trampoline, a huge twister, table football and hundreds of other interesting games provide plenty of joyful entertainment. Delicious and original vegetarian fare is served and sweet tooth’s satisfied with an array of handmade chocolates, ice cream and cotton candy. Children of all ages are welcome and may be left the Children’s area without worry. This is a positive group of people and there is strictly no alcohol or drug use, just love, harmony and positive vibes. QArsenal Stadium, pr. Metallistov 51, MPl. Lenina, www.vk.com/event27938604. Paint from 500 grams to 2 kilograms per person – free. Tickets from 700Rbl.

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June - July 2015

July 11

Culture & Events Erarta exhibitions June-July Through 28.06 Sunday The war put an end to the world

A photography exhibition dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the start of the First World War. ‘The war put an end to the world’ reconstructs the events of 1914-1918 and through a collection of unique photos, newsreels, wartime magazines, leaflets, cartoons and posters. The objective is to view the war through the eyes of all those involved, paying special attention to the suffering endured by civilians and Russia’s participation in this tragedy. 08.06 Monday - 07.07 Tuesday At the edge of Europe The exhibition highlights the history of contemporary artistic life of Yekaterinburg spanning 20-30 years. Displaying the work of artists of the Ural school whose work is already well known in Russian art in the 20th century such as V.Volovich, M.Brusilovsky and G.Metilev, as well as works by artists whose work only fully emerged in the 21st century: I.Vishnya, A.Balandin, L.Aleksandrov. The exhibition is introduction to the topic of contemporary art of the Urals. 18.06 Thursday - 06.09 Sunday Yakov Chernikhov Exhibition displays the works of one of the most exciting and dramatic creative figures of the Soviet architecture in the first half of the twentieth century. Yakov Chernikhov was a Soviet architect, painter, artist and architectural theorist. His work, especially that of the 1920s-1930s, influenced the development of modern architecture in the 20th century. Many famous modern architects openly refer to him an inspiration and absentee teacher.QB-3, Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art, VO, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300 - 450Rbl. 16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Exhibitions 03.12 Wednesday - 10.01 Sunday Gifts from East and West to the Imperial Court over 300 Years During the 300-year period from the reign of Peter I to Nikolai II, Petersburg was the imperial capital city and played host to the empire’s official meetings, visits and celebrations. During these diplomatic events it was customary to exchange gifts as concrete regonition of one country’s respect for the other. The Hermitage collection traces the history of this practice, displaying gifts to Russia - from paintings to silver and porcelain tea sets to elaborate snuff boxes - from both Western and Eastern empires. Historically and aesthetically valuable, these objects silently bear witness to Russia’s dynamic diplomatic relations with the East and West from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century.QD-2, The State Hermitage, The General Staff Building, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl.

05.03 Thursday - 15.06 Monday Serov. The Non-Portraitist The Russian Museum presents a brilliant collection of works by Valentin Serov (1865-1911) on the 150th anniversary of his birth. Famous for his incredible portraits, many of which are considered true classics of Russian Art in the late 19th and 20th centuries. The artist himself stressed that he was not only a portrait painter and the exhibition presents his creative genius as a historical painter, genre painter, landscape painter and works that largely anticipated the start of Russian avant-garde. The exhibition features approximately 250 paintings, drawings, sculptures and his famous work ‘Christ Walking on Water’ (1890) will be on display for the first time.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 130 - 350Rbl.

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Culture & Events 23.04 Thursday - 22.06 Monday The People’s war is on. 1941-1945 An exhibition dedicated to the 70th anniversary of Victory in The Great Patriotic War runs at the Russian Museum until June 22nd. Wartime events are shown through the eyes of witnesses and participants in the works created during this grim period in history. The exhibition includes works by G.Vereisky, A.Deineka, P.Konchalovsky, P.Kotov, Kukryniksy, V.Lishev, D.Mochalsky, V.Mukhina, Y.Nikolaev, A.Pakhomov, Y.Pimenov, A.Rusakov, V.Pakulin, I.Serebryany, I.Toidze, A.Yar-Kravchenko and others. Along with pictorial, graphic and sculptural works, the exhibition includes sketches, photographs and documentary chronicles, which reflect the true atmosphere of war. QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 130 - 350Rbl.

23.05 Saturday - 28.06 Sunday Underground Images From the School of Visual Arts in conjunction with the New Museum is ‘Underground Images’. An exhibition of posters from the School of Visual Arts displayed New York subway, from 1947 to the present day. The SVA, recognizing the need to attract students placed posters in the New York subway, designed by posters legendary designers of the time, such as, Milton Glaser (famous for logo ‘I Love NY’). The New York subway, which had previously been dominated by commercial advertising, transformed into a platform for the promotion of contemporary Art and Design. The School of Visual Arts is among the most influential in the global art community and the exhibition demonstrates the talent of its graduates.QC-2, New Museum, 6-ya liniya 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and Tue. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Rosphoto exhibitions June-July Through 25.06 Friday Yevgeny Khaldei. The Banner of Victory Marking the 70th Anniversary of the victory in World War II , ROSPHOTO presents an exhibition from prominent Soviet wartime photographer Yevgeny Khaldei (1917-1997). Born in 1917 in Yuzovka (now Donetsk), his works are considered a vital component in he history of World War II and his photographs served as evidence of Nazi crimes during the Nuremberg Trials, to which a section of the exhibition is dedicated. Highlights of his work include photographic portraits of world leaders Joseph Stalin, Winston Churchill and Franklin Roosevelt, taken during the Yalta and Potsdam Conferences, where the future of the post war world would be decided. 10.07 Friday - 30.08 Sunday Paolo Morello. Upon Light An exhibition at ROSPHOTO presents some of Paolo Morello’s best works of the last ten years, taken from a total of five collections entitled ‘Journey to Sicily’, ‘Aphrodite’s Nostalgia’, ‘In the beginning’ and ‘The Tale of the Banyan tree’. Photographic historian, photographer, publisher, collector, and gallerist, Paolo Morello has lectured in Photography and History of Photography at the universities of Palermo, Bologna, Brescia, Verona, at the Università Ca’ Foscari in Venice, the Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore in Milan and has authored several works on the History of Photography in Italy. 31.07 Friday - 06.09 Sunday Dixon. The boundaries of the ice Beat Schweizer is an accomplished Swiss photographer, his works regularly appear in wordls leading publications from The Guardian to Die Zeit and are included in photography exhibitions across Europe. ‘Dixon. The boundaries of ice’ comes as result of a partnership with Urs Mannhart, author of bestselling novel ‘Lynx’ (translated into Russian by Svyatoslav Gorodetsky). In 2013 the pair decided to embark on a courageous journey to the most northern settlement in Russia, the Dixon village. ‘Dixon. The boundaries of ice’ is a series of photographs which reflect day to day city life in the arctic circle, as well as a report written by Mannhart.QD-3, The State Russian Centre of Photography ROSPHOTO, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 100-200Rbl. June - July 2015

Feature

St. Petersburg’s best breaks Krestovsky, Yelagin and petrovsky islands provide a wonderful alternative to the ever-buzzing city centre - no wonder you find Russians gravitating towards them on weekends. There’s enough activities to occupy even the most ambitious amongst you, so we’ve picked out the best bits of three islands. With places to eat, museums to ponder and parks to admire, go at your own pace, relax and enjoy. 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Features Krestovksy Island: The origin of the name of the Island is still contested to this day. Many claim the name refers to a lake on the Island, which appears to be cross-shaped. Others, however, suggest that on Swedish maps the Island is referred to, in Finish, as “Cross Island”. Whilst the Russians may contest the name of the Island, one thing they definitely do not contest is that there is plenty of fun to be had here! It therefore should come as no surprise that over the weekend the Petersburgers flock in their masses to Krestovsky Island. The simplest way to access the Island is by metro; the station, Krestovsky Ostrov, is located on the Purple V5 line in the north of St. Petersburg. Fortunately the metro only has one entry and exit point, so there’s no need to think twice about which way to go. After exiting the metro simply walk down the steps towards ulitsa Ryukhina, and if in doubt, follow the crowd! Once you approach the road you will find yourself with several choices depending on the kind of itinerary you’re looking for. By the end of this feature we hope that any individual can plan out a lovely day at Krestovky Island, just as the locals do! One great option available to you is walking along Yuzhnaya doroga. Whilst there may not be any specific destination awaiting you here, this street really captures the essence of Krestovsky Island. To find it exit the metro and turn turn left on ulitsa Ryukhina and continue walking up until Krestovsky prospekt. Turn right on Krestovsky prospekt and then keep straight until you reach a roundabout. At the roundabout continue straight and you will find yourself on Yuzhnaya doroga. Without having any end goal in mind, walk at leisure down this street and you will pass numerous bars, cafes and restaurants. Instead of picking and settling on any one place, why not consider trying out a few different ones, after all, variety is the spice of life! If you need a little inspiration, check out two of our favourite bar/ clubs Vozdukh and Zimaleto. Better yet however, keep your eyes pealed for shashlik tents. These are small tents dotted all around the Island, where you can buy beer and other beverages, or classic snacks like corn on the cob. The beauty of this kind of dining, and what makes it so popular with Russians, lies in its simplicity. It’s just going back to basics; good food and good company - all out in the fresh air. Having left the metro station, another great choice is Divo Island, the funfair ground that truly put Krestovsky island on the map. It’s impossible to miss, located no more than 20

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metres from the metro exit, just across the road. Remember that feeling as a child, walking into a sweet shop? The same kind of nostalgia awaits you at Divo Island. Entry to the funfair is free and customers need only pay per ride, however it is possible to buy a pass for the day, allowing you to enjoy as many rides as you’d like at a fraction of the cost. The rides really are very diverse; there are ‘children’s rides’, ‘family rides’ and ‘extreme rides’. For our braver readers, we dare you to try out Booster or Catapult - at your own risk of course! The park is open from 12:00 until 23:00 on weekdays and 11:00 until 24:00 on weekends, but bear in mind that the more extreme rides open slightly later. A handy local tip is that the prices drop after 21.00; this may prove to be cheaper but perhaps consider the consequences of riding the roller coasters straight after dinner!

Divo Island really is a child’s dream come true, making Krestovsky Island a place for the whole family. Nonetheless, Russian couples and groups of friends alike all come out here to make the most of the sunshine and enjoy themselves in a way you might think only children can. When you’re in the park you’ll notice people skating around on roller blades or riding around on bicycles - this is a mustdo! As well as being a fun mode of transport it is also a convenient way to get around, and with so many beautiful features in the park to take in, strap on your wheels and head in any and every direction. There are so many little stalls selling snacks, treats and drinks, you’re guaranteed to come across a bench where you can eventually sit down and enjoy them along with the view! The football fans amongst you may relish the opportunity of viewing Zenit St. Petersburg’s stadium, or what’s left of it! Formerly known as Kirov stadium, Zenit’s home is currently undergoing a complete renovation. Interestingly, to settle on a design for the stadium, a competition was set up, and following a unanimous vote, Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa won. His project has generated a lot of publicity, largely due to its intriguing name, “Spaceship”. The refurbished, state of the art stadium will have a capacity of no fewer than 62,000 seats. The stadium is situated on the West of the Island and, hopefully, it should prove easy to find! After exiting the metro station cross the road and head left. Take the first right, Batareinaya doroga, and continue down this road until you approach a roundabout. Head straight on at the roundabout, again along Batarei naya doroga, and in no time you’ll be able to see the stadium ahead of you. June - July 2015

Features This feature has hopefully left you with plenty of food for thought, but in case you’d like one final option, exit the metro and turn right along ulitsa Ryukhina. Keep walking until you reach Yelagin Most, at which point you can turn left along naberezhnaya Martynova. Here you can take a romantic walk alongside the river, making for a splendid view. Not only are there more shashliks here, but also a number of open air bars and restaurants, making a lovely alternative to the hot, stuffy city centre. Walking straight ahead as you approach the end of naberezhnaya Martynova there is a Yaught club, displaying some of the finest yaughts St. Petersburg has to offer. Of course it is also possible to use Yelagin most to cross over onto Yelagin Island; to find out more feel free to take a read of our other feature! Ultimately, Krestovsky Island gives you the chance to jump off the tourist trail. The Island is a great escape from the fast pace of life in the city centre and in a way allows you to relive your youth too, and let’s be honest, no one’s getting any younger! As always, save the best until last, so here’s one final piece of advice; Krestovsky Island is a truly wonderful place to simply get lost on, so use the directions merely as a guide and nothing more. Whether walking along the river, along the coast, or through the funfair, don’t worry about where you’re going, the sense fun and adventure will find you, we guarantee it!

Yelagin Island An island which is entirely parkland is the perfect place for a leafy stroll, echoing the sun drenched Vondelpark of Amsterdam or the dappled pathways of Paris. The island lies between the Bolshaya and Srednaya Nevka; its western tip offers a view point of the Gulf of Finland and at its eastern shore a view down the Bolshaya Nevka towards mainland St. Petersburg. Exiting Krestovsky metro station facing the park opposite, you should turn right and follow the road to the bridge to Yelagin Island. Once there, following the winding pathways between the trees eventually reveals a well-kept lawn stretching towards the elegant bright white Yelagin palace peeping out from the trees. A meandering stream of people of all ages can be found wandering or roller blading along the twisting paths, over bridges and under the dappled light of the trees. The 237 acres of gardens have faithfully preserved centuries old trees and special flora, and because of this some areas are indeed off limits. There are convenient cafes hiding amongst the trees, play areas for children and even the chance to take a boat or pedalo out on the island’s ponds. The island, the smallest of the Kirov islands in the Neva’s 20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

delta, was inhabited by fishermen before the city was even founded. It was presented to Peter the Great by Peter Shafirov in 1709, his vice chancellor, but was taken back after Shafirov faced a death sentence in 1723 for embezzlement. Previously named after a bear allegedly spotted by soldiers on the island in the 18th century, the park’s current name derives from a famously hospitable former owner of the island, Ivan Yelagin (1725-1794), who made all gardens open to the public.

The radiant Yelagin Palace stands proudly at the head of a long sweeping lawn, where two majestic white lion statues, inspired by the Medici lions in Florence, guard a perfectly symmetrical staircase to the entrance. The palace was completed in 1822 as a summer residence for Tsar Alexander I’s mother, Maria Fyodorovna. It was designed by the Italian architect Carlo Rossi, who also designed the Mikhailovsky Palace of the Russian Museum, masterfully creating the pearly white curves, columns and dome nestled among the greenery of the park. It is built on the site of a mansion designed by the architect Giacomo Quarenghi, built from 1785-1790 during the rule of Catherine the Great, as a gift to the island’s namesake, Ivan Yelagin, a close friend and ally during her time as Grand Duchess. Retiring to his own island and Palladian Villa, Yelagin immersed himself in his study of alchemy. In later years, after complaining that she was no longer able to make day trips to other palaces, Maria Fyodorovna was given the current palace by her son, Tsar Alexander I, as a summer retreat. The architect Carlo Rossi fastidiously redesigned every detail of the old villa, whose richly detailed neoclassical interiors were decorated by Giovanni Battista Scotti, Vasily Demuth-Malinovsky, and Stepan Pimenov. Floral patterns, scenes from mythology and gilded carvings twirl across the elaborate ceilings and walls, dragging your eyes across every inch of intricate detail. Each room is decorated individually, with impressive exquisite marble, patterned flooring and painted ceilings which echo the Hermitage’s grand neoclassical style, albeit on a lighter and more manageable scale. The palace is sometimes known as the ‘palace of doors’, as no two of the inlaid doors are the same. The first floor of the palace is used as an exhibition space for the Museum of Decorative and Applied Art and Interiors from the 18th-20th Centuries, established in 1987. After Fyodorovna’s death in 1828 the palace was often unused, apart from Tsar Nicholas II leasing it to his prime ministers until the 1917 revolution. During the siege of Leningrad in st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Features World War II, the palace was badly damaged by shelling, but was rebuilt in the 1950s and now shows off its glamorous interior to the public. The palace’s outbuildings, including the Guardhouse pavilion and Flag Pavilion, are scattered amongst the trees surrounding the palace. Dedicated paths will lead you around the assorted bright white structures, decorated by beds of vivid flowers. In full bloom, the colourful flora, clean white walls and pockets of dazzling water will make for some unmissable photo opportunities. In the palace’s Orangery today resides the Glass museum. The collection displays the work of Leningrad Glass Art Factory, operating from 1940 until 1997, founded by the influential Soviet glass sculptor Vera Mukhina. The factory produced innovative and colourful glassworks both for domestic use and also as experimental art. Around 8000 glass works are displayed in three halls in a simple and thoughtfully lit display that twinkles from every angle. A whole corridor is devoted to the bold and sophisticated sculptures of Mukhina herself, with background information about her life and work. TV screens run short documentaries about the glass making process, and a couple of installations and information placards explain the evolution of the fine art of glass making over the years. It is well worth circling the island for the views across the waters of the Neva. Apart from an unfortunately noisy main road on the bank of the opposite shore on the north side of the island, you can look out across the placid waters towards other parts of the city, or indeed out to sea. Proceeding to the very western tip of the island takes you to a viewpoint at the Gulf of Finland. Here you will again find two lions flanking a platform from which to enjoy the view of the glittering Neva joining the open sea. Although marred slightly by the industrial edges of the city and the construction of Krestovsky Island’s new stadium, the quaintly dilapidated bobbing fishing boats and a haze of distant land on a bright day is well worth crossing the island for. On the site of a monument to architects at the eastern edge of the park, you can look straight down the Bolshaya Nevka curving inland towards the rest of the city. The southern shores reveal St. Petersburg’s own marina where a modest collection of polished yachts twinkle in the sunshine before the green backdrop of Krestovsky’s equally lush parkland. You will feel pleasantly removed from the bustle of central Petersburg while enjoying the quiet natural side of the city.

Oda! Eda! July 25-26 Food festival Oda! Yeda! on Yelagin Island is the largest gastronomic event in Eastern Europe, takes place annually in both Moscow and St. Petersburg. In St. Petersburg this year the theme of ‘St. Petersburg cuisine’ will be explored. On one hand, how it is described in the literary works of Pushkin, Dostoevsky and Tolstoy and on the other, a hearty Russian fare with elegant touches of European influence. With Food courts, markets, children’s cooking school, and gastronomic master classes, and an outdoor wine festival ‘Oda! WINE!’ there is entertainment catering to all tastes. QAdmission 200Rbl. www.odaeda.me

restaurants Il Lago dei Cigni QA-1, Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW Marseillaise QB-1, Nab. Martynova 16, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 498 77 77, www.marseillaise.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. PTASW Na Rechke QB-1, Ul. Olgina 8, MChernaya rechka, tel. (+7) 812 230 03 47, www.narechke.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Yelagin QB-1, Nab. Martynova, opposite the house №40, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 947 15 44, www.elaginrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW Zimaleto QB-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 8, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 942 74 73, www.zimaleto.su. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW

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June - July 2015

Features

Petrovsky Ostrov and Petrovskaya Kosa Petrovsky Island is a unique place that maintains the slow pace of country living and a close proximity to the center. One of the smaller islands in the Malaya ‘Little’ Neva River and is connected by bridges to the neighboring Krestovsky and Petrogradsky islands. It is the perfect summer escape for those days when you find yourself craving some peace and tranquility away from the hustle and bustle of the city. A visit to Petrovsky Island is like travelling back in time. Picturesque one and two story red-brick houses stand next to the slopes of the Little Neva, creating a postcardlike setting. In the quaint courtyards children can be seen playing, clothes drying outdoors and music seeps from open windows. It feels as if time has stopped here and implausible that you are so close to the center of St. Petersburg. Despite large renovations being planned for the near future, the atmosphere of the 19th century remains. Visit Petrovsky Park and stroll along the paved walkway on the banks of the River Zhdanovka and take in the magnificent views. Created under orders of Nicholas I in 1837, it’s a beautiful landscape park, in the center are two large ponds and natural forests and meadows are alternated with planted trees and shrubs. For years people have loved coming to Petrovsky Park, and enjoyed playing, shooting, boating, and all sorts of attractions.

22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Leading through the middle of the park is Petrovsky Prospekt, at number 13 is ‘Dom veteranov stseny’’ or the ‘House of veterans of the scene’. Founded in 1896 by Russian actress Maria Gavrilovna Savina. Designed by architect M. F. Geysler, the house was built in the years 1900-1902 with the financial help of Savina’s husband, philanthropist A. E. Molchanova. It was Savina’s wish to create a ‘safe haven’ for elderly actors and provide a ‘holiday home for life’ for artists of the scene. Her goal was achieved and ‘Dom veteranov stseny’ was the home to many artists, actors, directors and also war veterans and prisoners of Nazi and Stalinist concentration camps. At the far side of the island, across the bridge from Sportivnaya metro is perhaps the most famous building on Petrovsky Island is Stadion Petrovsky, the home ground of FC Zenit Saint Petersburg the 2007, 2010 and 2011–12 Champions of the Russian Premier league. The large stadium has a capacity of 21,405 and is also a popular venue for concerts and festivals. Prior to the 1980 Summer Olympics Petrovsky Stadium underwent major renovations and received worldwide recognition after hosting the Goodwill Games in 1994. On the other side of the island is Petrovskaya Kosa, one of the most scenic parts of the city. It leads from Petrovskaya pl. to the St. Petersburg River Yacht Club, established in 1860, it is one of the oldest Yacht clubs in Russia and often hosts various competitions, festivals and concerts. Restaurant More. Yachts & Seafood (www.restoran-more.ru) is located in the building of the Yacht Club. In the summer it is a favorite spot for city residents and the lucky owners of yachts, with an excellent wine list and array of fresh seafood. Alternately, try Restaurant Parusa (www.parusa-spb. ru ), just steps away on the waterfront with views to Krestovsky Island. Sitting on the terrace of Restaurant Parusa, overlooking the moored yachts, you would be forgiven for thinking you are vacationing at sea. All this is available without having to leave the city. To reach the island by public transport, take the Metro to either Chkalovskaya or Sportivnaya station and buses number 7 and 14. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Caviar Bar and Restaurant Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar.com. Open Wed - Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW Idiot With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. However many people come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial English speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu.QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Koleso Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu. The wait staff are very professional and know the menu well and will be happy to guide you through some of the region’s more unusual dishes.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 21 25. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

June - July 2015

Where to eat Mari Vanna Making a reservation at this popular restaurant is essential, especially given the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house - and what kind of guest would turn up unannounced? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian homecooked food such as borshch, pelmeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old and cosy Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-blowing, just plain good and filling, but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids, make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QC-1, Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW NEP NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be enthralled by the music, often featuring a charming, personality-packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran. ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of establishment as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this a very recommended introduction to Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka list we’ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom. ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAUEGSW

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Tsar Tsar, as its name suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits of noblemen cover the walls and the toilets are even encased inside giant, leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance.QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTAVEGSW

Asian and Indian Azia The AZIA restaurant opened in April 2015 in the prime corner position of the Grand Hotel Europe where St. Petersburg’s oldest prestige hotel looks out onto Nevsky prospekt. This is pan-Asian cuisine in its truest sense, taking in the “3 Asias”: Southern, South-Eastern and Central. Given the arsenal of over 150 spices at its command, expect a varied menu, which in spite of (or perhaps because of) its geographical reach is organised not by where the dish is from, but rather how it is prepared. Specialities include Singapore-style crab with chilli peppers, Tandoor-chicken with carrot and ginger, and steamed rolls stuffed with lobster and five spices. AZIA also boasts a bewildering range of desserts and, naturally, a separate sushi zone.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€€. PALSW Dve Palochki This chain of superior Japanese food restaurants is practically ubiquitous around the city, especially in the centre. Luckily, the restaurant’s high level of service and comfort is also standard across the board. In the menu you will find not only traditional sushi rolls, soups and teas, but also delicious classic Panasian, Italian and American dishes. The unique restrooms are still a bit of a mystery: two toilets in one cubicle - what’s that about? With more than 25 locations in the city, including Italianskaya ul. 6, Nevsky pr. 47 and 96, it’s almost difficult not to conveniently run across one during your stay in St. Petersburg.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 02 22, www.dvepalochki.ru. Open 11:00 06:00. €. PTAVSW Tandoor Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For more than 20 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two spacious rooms, this place is ideal for dining in large groups.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Beer Restaurants Bierstube Serving beer from their own brewery, the Marriott’s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you are looking for some delicious local brews. Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or inside the wood and stucco-decorated centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like fried calamari and cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian and Czechinspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro station means you’ll have a chance to walk off all the calories after.QC4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULGSW Bristol Pub Bristol is a quiet, respectable pub; a thick rug on the floor, leather-upholstered sofas and velvet armchairs, and blackand-white photographs of 20s and 30s England create a cosy and snug atmosphere, perfect for hunkering down with a beer on a cold winter night. Bristol is just as well suited to a business lunch with colleagues or to a celebration in high-spirited company. Don’t expect anything out of the ordinary from the cooking - everything’s simply done, but very tasty. The menu is a combination of European and Russian dishes as well as a large assortment of beers and other alcoholic beverages.QE-3, Ul. Marata 36/38, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 24 42, www. molly.su. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW

True Indian cooking and hospitality since 1994

over

20 years

10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 www.tandoor-spb.ru

Farsh & Bochka Believe it or not, it’s finally here! A hip yet unpretentious pub for bearded guys as well as the managerial types that serves about 30 different sorts of craft beers that the owners have personally tried and vetted, hand-made sausages out of real meat and the prices really don’t bite - that’s Farsch & Bochka, right in the city center. You can’t miss it! And you really shouldn’t miss it if spending quality time in a quality bar with quality beer and quality food is your idea of a great evening out.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 941 51 70, www.beercard.ru. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PNS Pivnaya Karta With over 400 different kinds of craft and imported beers, this is a unique place in St. Petersburg. Standing in the New York-style interior, you’ll find yourself being helped by the bar’s professionals to find the specific kind of beer you like, or will learn to love. Don’t be put off by the minimal food menu. This place is about what really matters - - beer. All beers can also be purchased to take away.QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 93 78, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGS www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

June - July 2015

Where to eat ROOF TOP TERRACES Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hundreds of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun. Here we’ve picked out what we think are some of the city’s best roof top terraces and bars where you can not only enjoy fantastic views and the unbridled sunshine but also try some very delicious food and fresh summer drinks! Bellevue Brasserie QD-2, Hotel Kempinski Moika 22, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. Open 12:00 01:00. €€€€. PTALSW Makaronniki QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Moskva QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW Terrassa QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 937 68 37, www.terrassa.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAULVESW Victoria QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEW W Hotel terrace QD-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 55, www.wstpetersburg. com. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. €€€€. PTAEGKW

Manneken Pis Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a little different, Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range of Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer and the food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PTAGSW Trappist Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself for offering good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl a bottle, Trappist is definitely a beer destination, as they have imported more than 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGSW

Caucasian Baklazhan The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) is in the touches of deep purple, the wine bottles lining the walls and a sort of market stall selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare sprinkled with a few innovative dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and you’ll be treated to piping hot goodness that’ll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTAULVEGSW Khochu Kharcho “Khochu Kharcho!” is Russian for “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew with mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice in a highly spiced broth. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it’s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.com. Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW

26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Where to eat Mamalyga Just a stones throw from Nevsky, this restaurant offers you an assortment of food from the Caucasus region, including Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisine of Swaneti and Guria. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local (to the region) cooks. The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashliks, salads, khachapuri, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga. com. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAVGSW

Palkin Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times, which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing region of the world.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEGSW

Pryanosti i radosti Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant. On entering, you might even say too popular. The tables are spaced close to each other and a quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but somehow it all works. You feel like you are in a busy, fun and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Moskovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya). QD-1, Mal. Posadskaya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www.ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVEGSW

The Flying Dutchman At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the river’s banks, with the glorious Winter Palace directly opposite diners. The Flying Dutchman complex includes three different restaurants. Fresh fish is predictably a wise choice in such a venue and certainly doesn’t disappoint and the wine list nonchalantly flows over several pages. Fantastic food with inimitable views of the Venice of the North makes this place one of the city’s most desirable eateries.QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open 10:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALESW

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June - July 2015

Fine dining

Where to eat International Fiolet Restaurant Fiolet beautifully combines both classic and modern interiors, creating an upmarket and simultaneously casual atmosphere, suited to any occasion, business dinner, lunch with friends or a gala dinner. The varied menu offers Asian, Japanese and European cuisine and Chef Andrew Erokhin excites the palette with an unlimited number of combinations, in his hands dishes from the most ordinary ingredients are transformed into unforgettable culinary delights. The warmer months sees the restaurant opens their summer terrace, a great place to unwind and socialize with friends.QE-3, Pl. Lomonosova 4, MNevky pr., tel. (+7) 812 407 52 07, www.rossihotels. com/restaurant/. Open 07:30 - 01:30. €€. PASW Gastronomika You will be surprised to find such a vibrant place on the sixth floor of the shopping center Olympic Plaza. With views over the romantic rooftops of St. Petersburg and the ever-impressive Nevsky prospekt, welcoming, professional and friendly staff, you would think the food is not its main attraction. This could not be further from the truth; here everything is designed to excite your taste buds!QE-3, Stremyannaya ul. 21/5A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 16 16, www.ginza.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Wed - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Koryushka Koryushka is a Georgian restaurant on Zayachy Island located in the oldest part of the city - the Peter and Paul Fortress, also a main tourist hotspot. The location affords great views of landmarks across the river, including the Winter Palace, and the restaurant makes the most of this fact, with lots of windows and terraces, giving the place a spacious feel. The staff are helpful, and although the menu highlights fish dishes, there are also shashlik and salads available, as well as a decent range of drinks. It’s the perfect spot to sit and enjoy the view after visiting this historic area of the city.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 917 90 10, www.ginzaproject.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTALVEGSW Mansarda Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom’s headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome of St. Isaac’s Cathedral. The interior is understated and the glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. The cuisine is as crisp and modern as the restaurant in which it’s served and shouldn’t disappoint even the most discerning guests. Classic European tastes dominate, though Asian influences are also given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes in particular come highly recommended.QC3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALVEGSW 28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Where to eat

Stroganoff Steakhouse If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse, perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bankers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else on the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak event.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www. stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAUVEGSW

Italian Capuletti This sprawling Italian restaurant has a cute cafe/deli style area in the front room that overlooks the street and wide balconies, tables, vines and soaring ceilings in the back area. Decorated in a homely country style, the different dining areas suit both intimate meals and family dinners. The pizzas are a great choice and come straight from a stone wood-fired oven and the grilled dishes are also definitely worth trying. They also now serve a breakfast menu from 09:00 - 15:00 with all the breakfast favourites like brioche, panini, mueslis, inventive omelettes and good coffees.QC-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 74, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 22 82, www.capuletti.info. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVGSW www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Marcellis Marcellis is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style that reflects the usual images of Italy - jars of condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese case there - although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make the atmosphere authentic. The pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the delicious sauces are infused to the bursting point with tomato, chili and basil. Featuring an open kitchen, Marcelli’s offers diners yet another great opportunity to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) and Moskovsky pr. 205 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAGSW Palermo Palermo is a cosy restaurant a stone’s throw from Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beaches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermospb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGSW June - July 2015

Rubinshteina Street Ulitsa Rubinshteina is known for its diverse bars, cafes, and restaurants and is a the place to experience contemporary Russian culture. Initially the alley appeared in the 1740s. In 1929 it was renamed in honour of composer Anton Rubinshtein (1829-1894) who lived for a number of years at house 38. A premiere piano virtuoso in the 19th century, he wrote 20 operas, and founded the St. Petersburg Conservatory (his older brother Nikolay founded the Moscow Conservatory). As you walk down the street away from McDonald’s on Nevsky is the former residence of the great Prince Sergey Aleksandrovich (House 1 –to your right) and the duke G.G. Meklenburg-Strelitsky (5). At the corner of Grafsky Pereulok is a newer building, constructed by Soviet authorities in 1929-1931 in an early constructivist style(7). Olga Berggolts (1910-1975), a poet famous whose radio addresses raised morale during the Blockade, lived in the building from 1932-1943. Formally called the Communal House of Engineers and Writers, informally it was known as the tears of socialism. Across the street (18 – to your left) is the Theatre of Europe, also known as the Maly Dramatichesky Teatr – which puts on some of the best plays in St. Petersburg. This building was constructed in 1837, and reconstructed in 1899. Further on the right is the boarding and meeting house of M.F. Ruadze originally built in 1863-1864 (13). Over the years many organizations have been based here and in 1981, it became the home of the Leningrad Rock Club, the epicenter of the Soviet rock scene during perestroika. Monitored by the KGB, it was the first legal rock venue in the city and bands such as Kino, Alisa, DDT, and Akvarium performed there regularly. The next building (15-17)is the boarding house of count Mikhail Tolstoy (1845-1913). Tolstoy was a hero of the Russian-Turkish War of 1877-1878 and the home was built in 1910-1912 just before his death. Among the many famous people that have resided in this building is Eduard Khil (19342012), the Soviet crooner was a recent Youtube sensation with Trololo. Soviet science fiction novelist and philosopher Ivan Yefremov (1908-1972) lived in house 23. Yefremov is best known for his 1957 classic Andromeda Nebula, which tells the story of a communist utopia set far in the future. Ul. Rubinshteina ends when it meets up with three other streets (Zagorodny pr., Razyezzhaya ul., and ul. Lomonosova) to form Pyat uglov (five corners), the only such intersection in St. Petersburg. At the corner of Rubinshteina and Zagorodny (38) is where acclaimed Soviet theoretical physicist Matvey Bronshtein (1906-1938) lived before he was arrested in 1937 during the Great Purges. 30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Restaurants Mollie’s Irish Pub St. Petersburg’s first Irish pub, located just off Nevsky on one of the city’s best bar and cafe streets, Mollie’s offers just what you would want from an Irish pub, if not more: lots of different beers, truly good food and music (although it might be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). The regulars are a wellmixed crowd: Russians, expats and the occasional tourist. The environment is very welcoming; come with a big crowd, as a pair, or just by yourself and you’re sure to quickly feel right at home.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PASW Fartuk Combining the cosy with the modern, the centrally located cafe-bar Fartuk (Russian for ‘apron’) is one of those charming family-run places that make you want to return again and again. A communal country-kitchen style table and gorgeous Provencal floor tiles dominate the centre of the room and set the friendly and relaxed tone, which is enhanced by the welcoming and attentive wait staff. The menu is a mix of European influences with a focus on Mediterranean tastes and the odd sprinkling of Asian spices, and the homemade lemonades and hot drinks make excellent refreshments.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 52 56. Open 11:00 until last guest. €. PTAGSW Vinostudia Vinostudia derives its concept from the German writer, artist and politician Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: life is too short to drink bad wine! And right he is, although we would like to add to that: life is too short to drink bad, overpriced wine, which is often the case in Russia, but not in this gastrobar! We liked this place so much that we hurried back to check it out a second time. The wine list is good and reasonably priced. So if you are looking for a modern, relaxed atmosphere to sip great wine, this is a good choice. As you might expect from a gastrobar, there is a nice selection of zakuski: pinchetos, olive plate, cheeses - all of which complement your drink. Enjoy the friendly atmosphere and service.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 38, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 78 38. Open 16:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. €€. PTAGSW Geografia As you might have guessed from the restaurant’s name, the menu includes cuisine from all around the world. Here you can enjoy the best from the Middle East, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Mexico, Peru, Europe and Russia. Choosing a single dish can be really tricky. But eating is only half the pleasure at Georgafia; the restaurant takes great pride in its cocktails, offering more than 40 original concoctions that are aimed to make you cast away any preconceived ideas about matching food and drink. If making a choice is too difficult, ask one of the servers and they will be happy to be your guide on this exotic holiday.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 340 00 74, www.geo-rest.com. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PTAEGSW st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Rubinshteina Street Deti Raika St. Petersburg’s fashionable ulitsa Rubinshteina offers a real plethora of trendy dens for artistic types, and the new St. Petersburg branch of Moscow’s prosperous Deti Raika is certainly up there with the best of them. Taking its name from the owner’s favourite film, the 1945 ‘Enfants du Paradis’, the venue’s high ceilings, elegant furniture and beautifully panelled floor would fit right in as an atmospheric black and white French film still. A wealthy array of cocktails adds to the effortless class of your surroundings, and with a menu that includes salads, sandwiches, soups, pizza, pasta and more, it seems nothing has been overlooked. QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 20, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 20 37, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. TAEGSW Myzhenaty Another of ulitsa Rubinshteina’s hip hideaways, the cafe Myzhenaty’s translation ‘we are married’ perhaps refers to the classic marriage of book and cafe. Here, jumbles of tables and chairs peek through the maze of bookshelves, where the literature itself constitutes most of the minimalist decor. An admittedly small menu offers essential coffees or juices to accompany a delicious salad or sandwich. The venue gets a thumbs up for not trying too hard for flashiness, relying simply on a classic but contemporary library-like setting where you can gather with friends for a chat or simply pull something off the shelf and settle down to read.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 11, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 44 74. Open 12:00 - 11:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW Schastye (Happiness) That happiness can be found in a restaurant is wonderful news indeed, especially for food lovers. “Happiness”, as the restaurant is called, is adorned with dozens of garden-style cupids amid fresh white-painted boards and a trendy creamcoloured interior. Comfortable cushioned benches and booths are situated in two dining halls and the menu offers excellent salads, pasta dishes and various traditional Italian meats. Don’t forget to sample some of their homemade desserts and treats. Also at Nevsky pr. 55 and Mal. Morskaya ul. 24.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 15/17, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 26 75, www.schaste-est.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

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Russian summer menu

The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get through the bitterly cold winter months, but come summer some special warm weather dishes also make their way on to the Russian menu. Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that you may find. Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July. Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is as it sounds, quite an acquired taste… The main course. Salads are universally popular year round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen (green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants usually serve up the best shashliks. June - July 2015

Konyushennaya area

Ivan Sergeevich Turgenev – one of the classics of Russian literature. Nikolai Andreevich Rimskiy-Korsakov – a great Russian composer. Arkadiy Aleksandrovich Rylov – an esteemed Russian-Soviet artist and teacher. What do these distinguised people all have in common? At one point of their lives they all resided on a beautiful street in St. Petersburg that connects Nevsky Prospekt and Konyushennaya Square. Bolshaya Konyushennaya street, which runs parallel to River Moika, appeared on the map of St. Petersburg in the 1730s at the order of Empress Anna Ionnavna. In Russian, the name means the Big Stable street and this is no accident: the street was created to connect Nevsky Prospekt to the Konyushennaya Square, where the Empress had her regal stables. At first this street became tightly lined with small wooden houses that belonged to Europeans who relocated to St. Petersburg but these didn’t last very long as in 1739 an order came in to replace them with one- and two-storey concrete buildings. Many of the Europeans remained and therefore this area of St. Petersburg is where most of the non-Orthodox places of worhsip were constructed. The Finnish Church of Saint Mary was built between 1803 and 1805 and the Germano-French Reformist Church three decades earlier. Soon after the Germano-French Church was established, a new street appeared on the map of St. Petersburg – Malaya Konyushennaya street, or Small Stable street. Like its older sibling, this street also got its name from being connected to Konyushennaya Square. Life in this area of St. Petersburg was smoothly running its course throughout the 19th century. Buildings were being renovated and restructured, the foreign houses of worship got new add-ons..but when the Bolsheviks came power these two streets discontinued to exist. In October 1918 Malaya Konyushennaya became Sofyi Perovskoi street and Bolshaya Konyushennaya was renamed after A. I. Zhelyabov, a notorious revolutionary and terrorist. During the Soviet times several buildings on Bolshaya and Malaya Konyushennaya changed the purpose of their existence because the Bolsheviks, of course, did not recognize religion or the bourgeios lifestyle. And so the fashionable restaurant Medved’ on Bolshaya Konyushennya 27 was transformed into the Raikin Theater (which is there till this day) and right next door - house number 25 - where there 32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Konyushennaya area was once the French Reformist church, the government established a Soviet-style doughnut place called «Zhelyabova 25». Until this day, locals believe this to be the best little coffee and pastry joint in town and maybe it has something to do with the fact that in the last 50 years the recipes and the assortment haven’t changed at all. From 1709 and up until 1918, house number 5 on Malaya Konyushennaya used to be the German School - Sankt-Petri-Schule - and one of the oldest educational institutions in Russia. Although in 1991 the building was given its old name back, it is famous among Russian rockers and music lovers for once being the residence of the one and only Boris Grebenschikov, the leader of the legendary group Akvarium. It is a place of pilgrimage for fans of the group and the walls are covered with band’s lyircs. Nowadays, this area is a great place for a nice walk, soaking in history and culture and hanging out with friends. The beautiful Spaso-Konyushennaya Church is located on Konyushennaya Square; this is the church where Russia’s most famous poet Aleksandr Sergeevich Pushkin had his burial service in 1837. In 2010 Bolshaya Konyushennaya underwent a mass reconstruction process and is now a pleasant leafy boulevard with cafes, fountains, horse sculptures and benches. It’s also a great place to splurge on elite designer brands thanks to a number of boutiques as well as the newly re-opened “DLT” department store, which stands for the “Leningrad House of Trade”. Malaya Konyushennaya became a car-free pedestrian street in the 1990s and in 1997 a large bronze statue of Nikolai Gogol was erected in the middle of the street.

Restaurants Arka The soft lighting, exposed brick and sky-lights create a chic, yet cosy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place to meet up with friends or business partners for after-work, or pre-going out drinks. The menu includes a grill section with sets that are meant to be shared, as well as other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way, like the cappuccino mushroom cream soup. And their kitchen is open until 06:00 in the morning! The prices are reasonable compared to similar high-class bars and you are guaranteed to leave with a good impression.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 339 89 39, www.arka.spb. ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGSW

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Jamie’s Italian Admirers of the legendary chef Jamie Oliver should except the usual high standards of cuisine and service: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian flour and farm eggs and is prepared right before your eyes, while the rustic bread is made according to original recipes and is baked in special ovens. The wine list is mainly Italian, and almost every wine is available by the glass. Lovers of a festive Italian atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors, a large team of servers, and cooks hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALVGSW Palm Belgian Brasserie Located smack in the centre of the city, just off Nevsky, the Palm is a convenient and comfortable place, notably if you appreciate beer and comfort food. Their bottled Trappist beer selection is impressive and the Whitte Trappist we tried on tap was excellent. If you’re looking for something satisfying and Belgian to snack on, make sure to order one of their Belgian waffles with your choice of sweet or savory toppings. As a plus, their coffee is, perhaps surprisingly for a low-key beer restaurant, also truly delicious.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 81 51, www.palminspb.ru. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. €€. PAS June - July 2015

PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS

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Where to eat RESTAURANTS IN HOTELS Astoria and Angleterre What’s new at Hotel Astoria’s café? First off, summer is upon us so a lighter summer menu is now on offer. Secondly, the kitchen welcomed its new head chef, Monsieur David Ayrault. Last but not least, the sister hotel Angleterre has expanded its culinary repertoire to traditional Italian with the opening of its new restaurant Borsalino. The menu was specially created by Rocco Forte’s brand chef Fulvio Pierangelini who brought the best of all of Italy’s regional traditions in one place. A new lunch offer will make a feast at Borsalino surprisingly affordable: between 12:00 and 15:00 you can get one dish for 600Rbl, two dishes for 750Rbl and three dishes for 850Rbl! And as we all know Thursday is “Almost Friday” so Borsalino hosts a live music session together with unlimited canapés, wine, beer and prosecco – and all for 1,100Rbl! Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. Kempinski The city always seems to come alive in the summer and Hotel Kempinski knows how to make the most out of the year’s best season. From May till September, guests can enjoy phenomenal city panoramas complemented by exquisite examples of the best of French culinary traditions on three open-air terraces of the aptly named Bellevue Brasserie. One of the terraces is a specially designated champagne bar. This year, the design of the terrace has been revamped and as an added bonus, an exhibition of the works of world famous architect Zaha Hadid will be on display for your viewing pleasure. To celebrate the Year of Literature in Russia, head chef Christophe Laplaza created a special “literary” menu! Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. Novotel Exploring everything St. Petersburg’s historical center has to offer is fun, exciting and simply stunning but can also get a bit tiring, especially in the warm summer months. To take a break and cool off, visit Novotel’s newly opened and exceptionally cozy summer terrace, just a stone’s 36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

throw away from Nevsky pr., the city’s main artery. A refreshing and healthy summer menu has been specially created for the terrace: grilled vegetables, fish and meats are all prepared without using oil. Also, the whole dorado baked in banana leaves with tartar sauce is worth a separate mention and is an absolute must-try! Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. Radisson Royal Are you in the mood for a lunch worthy of kings without breaking the bank? Radisson has the perfect deal for you. The Barbazan Business Lunch deal is on Monday to Friday 12:00 till 16:00. You can indulge in 2 or 3 courses inclusive of mineral water and tea/coffee, for 500Rbl and 600Rbl respectively. Just to give you an idea of what you can expect to enjoy, here’s the Monday menu: fresh garden greens salad with fried rye bread croutons, Asian style chicken soup with sweet corn and vegetables, pork in sweet and sour sauce with vegetables and boiled rice and baked apple with dry fruit and honey filling to top it all off. Mmmmm! Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. Taleon Taleon Imperial Hotel in the heart of historic St. Petersburg is very pleased to welcome you to Victoria Restaurant, which has just opened its doors on the very top floor of the hotel. This, of course, means that apart from an exceptionally refined menu consisting of the finest of European cuisine, you will be able to marvel at St. Petersburg most stunning sites no matter which way you look: the Kazan Cathedral, Church of the Savior on Blood, Stroganov Palace, the Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul and Dumskaya Tower! The restaurant is open from 12:00 until 23:00 everyday, business lunch is on from 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays and a festive brunch takes place every Sunday from 13:00 till 17:00. Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene.

Artsy and Underground Borodabar This hole-in-the-wall sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg’s burgeoning underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of cheap furniture.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW Cafe-Bar Produkty Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. Just

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to make you feel extra special, you have to ring the door bell to get in.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW Cafe Stirka A small, alternative and unique hang-out; Stirka has a good sound system, old sofa’s and small bar serving cold and hot drinks and snacks. Water-smoking pipes available. You can wash your clothes in the back room laundry machines and sup a beer while you watch them spin - all in a smokefree environment. Terrace seating for the those who need a puff or just want to hang out in the (semi-)fresh air. Laundry services available.QC-2, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 53 71, www.40gradusov.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PEW

Bars and Pubs Birzha Bar Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was originally intended to be St. Petersburg’s centre. Today the island is one of St. Petersburg’s most attractive areas, and the Birzha Bar is located on the spit of the island in the old St. Petersburg Stock Exchange. The bar holds wild dance nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and attracts Russian and foreign musicians to jazz up your night.QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEW

June - July 2015

Nightlife Chroniki Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian bar and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional Sovietera watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cosy, simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The preferred order at Chroniki is, as per tradition at a Leningrad ryumochnaya, hard alcohol. QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31 61. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW Dead Poets This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is impressive and accompanied by a delicious range of snacks. The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW Helsinki Bar This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that’s the case if you are Finnish and your parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance.QC-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW Library Bar The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed ‘gastrobar’ offers filling but carefully prepared food. The library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might be more of a place to catch some football on the many screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www. library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Liverpool If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW 38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Nightlife Terminal Bar Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. Fortunately without the reputation of the infamous New York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorsese’s ‘Taxi Driver’, the space is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11, MMayakovskaya. Open 14:00 until last guest. €. PW

Graf-in With its trendy interior and attractive staff, it is clear that Grafin caters to the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry Cheesecake”. During the week it’s pretty quiet, but on the weekends you should reserve a table. QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PTAESW

Clubs

Tsvetochki A café-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Décor is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour. Tsvetochki attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night in a laidback fashion, so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07 54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW

Mishka Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and handmade accessories. They’re tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW Purga There are two Purgas next to each other on the Fontanka river. Purga-I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga-II, couples celebrate mock weddings and dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW

Zing Bar Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked soundtrack are the draw cards of this stylish little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not so much so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything as can be experienced elsewhere. The menu focuses on the classics and is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), recent and modern sections which also includes their own Russian influenced creations.QD-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 39 44. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PAGW

Cocktail bars Bar 812 Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 04:00. PAESW Daiquiri Bar Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

nightlife - keeping safe A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be missed. However, to keep it fun and safe, there are a few things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any documents you have with you – getting a new passport really ruins a holiday, especially if you’ve lost your wallet as well. Go out with friends, it’s more fun and means you can look after each other, and makes you a harder target. Take registered taxis and don’t just jump into any car. And although it might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful whom you bring home – there are cases of people waking up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep your wits about you. June - July 2015

What to see

St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside of town. The city has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials Aleksander Nevsky Monastery Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall featuring a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. 40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Kazan Cathedral This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography) St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection, with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.

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What to see Peter and Paul Fortress The Fortress is the cradle of the city and St. Petersburg’s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular riverside views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s House museum which examines the history of the city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain Wall which focuses on the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 300Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Russian Museum A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured medium. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus’. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great, who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 10:30 - 04:30. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

modern art centres If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Art, which is the biggest private contemporary museum in Russia, and houses around 2300 works. Anna Nova Art Gallery QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Marina Gisich Gallery QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. S.P.A.S Gallery QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru. ROSPHOTO QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.

CITY CARD Get the most out of your trip to St. Petersburg with the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40 museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof. It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to get to know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More information at www.petersburgcard.com. June - July 2015

What to see Saints of Petersburg

Churches

Russian orthodoxy has always been closely associated with pilgrimages and the worshiping of icons and holy relics. Across Russia there are hundreds of sites where the faithful come hoping for miracles and religious solitude. St. Petersburg of course is also no stranger to the phenomenon and hosts its own number of pilgrimage sites dedicated to locally interred saints. St. Ksenia Deep inside the Smolensky cemetery on Vasilevsky ostrov you will find a tiny green church built over the grave of the city’s most revered Saint Ksenia. Widowed at the age of 27, Ksenia gave up all worldly possessions to spend her life in prayer as a pauper. She was believed to be clairvoyant and soon became famous in the city for her predictions and miraculous and selfless actions. When she died in 1803 and was buried in the Smolensky cemetery, every year her grave had to be replaced as pilgrims would come and take the earth away from it, believing it to have healing properties. Eventually the locals decided to build a small church over the grave for her and ever since the faithful have come here in the thousands seeking Ksenia’s help. Be warned the church is very small and popular so it can be a bit of an ordeal for those who suffer from claustrophobia. St. Ksenia’s feast day is February 06. QChurch of St. Ksenia, B-2, Smolensky cemetery, MPrimorskaya. St. John of Krohnstadt Also known as the Wonder-Working Father John Sergiev of Krohnstadt, St. John was canonised officially by the Russian Orthodox Church in 1990, some 80 years after his death. Until he was canonised he was already venerated by the many faithful who remembered him as a man of miracles and incredible kindness. He dedicated his life to charitable works and to teaching the local children of the impoverished and squalid Kronstadt island in the mid and late 19th Century, where he worked as a local priest. After he died he was buried in the Convent of St. John in the centre of St. Petersburg and even throughout Soviet times, faithful pilgrims came to leave flowers at the crypt where he is interred. St.John’s feast days are celebrated on December 20 and October 19. QIoannovsky Convent, C-1, nab. reky Karpovky 45, MPetrogradskaya. 42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and monasteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course there is St. Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These buildings give wonderful glimpses into Russia’s past. Armenian church QD-3, Nevsky pr. 40/42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 99 90, www.armenian-church.org. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Chesma Church QUl. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 and 18:00 (except Mon). Admission free. Sampsonievsky Cathedral QE-1, Bol. Sampsonievsky pr. 41, MVyborgskaya, tel. (+7) 812 294 57 51, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 19:00. Admission free. Smolny Cathedral QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. St. Andrew’s Cathedral QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya 11, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 34 18, www.hramsp.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 and 17:00. St. Nicholas Cathedral QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. Troitsky Cathedral QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. Vladimirsky Cathedral QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see Museums St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something for everyone! Artillery Museum QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-garde (Matyushin house) QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Museum of Political History of Russia QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl. Yusupov Palace QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.

Lyrical City With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city without visiting one of the museums honouring them. F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial Museum QE-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone. Memorial flat of Alexander Blok QC-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Nabokov Museum QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Pushkin Apartment Museum QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin. ru. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Russian Vodka Museum Vodka Museum This small museum presents the long history of Russia’s national drink, from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents. Display cases full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An official excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian snacks.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum. su. Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.

Egypt on the Neva Like most European Empires, the tsarist Russian empire was in love with monumental and exotic Egyptian symbolism. The most famous sphinxes in St. Petersburg are the city’s only original pair. Situated on Universitetskaya nab. 7 (C-3, MVasileovstrovskaya) you’ll find two, 32 ton beasts carved from Aswan granite, which were brought here from Egypt in 1832. Hieroglyphs on the side of the monuments link them to Pharaoh Amunhotep of Thebes (1417 – 1379 BC) who was ‘The builder of monuments rising to the sky’. Further down the Neva on Nab. Robespyera (E-2, MChernyshevskaya) you’ll find ‘Russia’s dark prince of the underground’ (formally known as Mikhail Shemyakin) monuments to the politically repressed. Inspired by their Egyptian brothers downstream, but situated opposite the Kresty prison where for centuries Russian political prisoners were held, these black beasts are half mythical feline creature and half emaciated ghoulish monsters. June - July 2015

Hermitage

The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but it’s certainly not number two”. With over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail to impress.

250 years In December 2014 the world-acclaimed museum celebrated its 250th anniversary. The museum’s central building, the socalled Winter Palace, was originally constructed as a winter residence for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Architect Bartolommeo Francesco Rastrelli’s magnificent baroque-style design was approved in 1754, but was not completed until eight years later, at the end of Elizabeth’s reign. In the fall of 1763, Empress Catherine II arrived in St. Petersburg as the new mistress of the palace and commissioned new architects and designers to transform the palace to suit her preference for neoclassical style. It is thanks to the efforts and desires of Empress Catherine the Great that the Hermitage has become the incredible museum it is today. During her 34-year reign, the Empress commissioned the construction of the Large and Small Hermitages and the Hermitage Theatre. Not only that, but she also personally purchased the art collections that form the basis of the Hermitage’s collection today. The year 1764, when Catherine acquired the Johan Gotzkowsky collection, is known as the Hermitage Museum’s official birthday. Gotzkowsky was a Berlin merchant and an agent of Prussia’s King Frederick II. Originally, he put together the magnificent collection of old masters under Frederick II’s commission. However, when the King was unable to finance the purchase, Gotzkowsky looked for other buyers and Catherine II was more than happy to take the offer.

250 years after Catherine’s provident purchase, which includes over 250 works by Flemish and Dutch masters, the museum has expanded its collection into one of the largest in the world. 44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The museum today Visiting the Hermitage should definitely be on the top of your must-do list in St. Petersburg. However, the museum houses so many works, that it is impossible to see everything in one visit. In fact, it’s said that if you were to spend just one minute looking at every piece in the museum, you would need a total of 11 years of non-stop looking to see them all! That being said, it’s best to enter armed with a museum map that will help you strategize and design your personal excursion in the vast space. Also remember to give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum amount of time to spend there if you want to see the main state rooms and some of the most popular artworks. The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance should head to the Italian rooms, where the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels are housed . The Rembrandt room is another must-see, as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from the near and central east. There are also a number of cafes and shops on the ground floor, just to the right of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum, where you can take a break and re-energize. The largest number of opulent state rooms, such as the throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries and parlours, are largely located on the first floor (which in Russia is the 2nd floor) of the Winter Palace and lead off in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you enter the museum, just after the ticket offices). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Hermitage A treasure trove

Icons at the Hermitage

Though the State Hermitage Museum is known primarily for its art collection, the museum also houses a treasure trove of gold masterpieces, dating back to early antiquity, and diamonds worthy of any safe deposit box. The Hermitage’s collection of gold artefacts dates back to the eighth century B.C.. The collection traces the rise and fall of early Eurasian peoples, as they lived and passed through the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai and Siberia. The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians – a nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from Central Asia. Their art includes belt clasps depicting fighting animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded with the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast. Depictions of these warlike people, who inhabited a broad area of what is now Russian and Ukrainian territory, are found in the fine work by Greek goldsmiths. Descriptions of the Scythians also survive today in the works of Greek historian Herodotus. The Scythians were replaced by later tribes who moved into the region, including the Sarmatians, Volga Bulgarians and Khazars. Each tribe has left their archaeological traces behind. One of the more exciting traces on display is the gold work of the Hunns, whose existence entered popular folklore during the time of the Great Migrations (fifth century A.D), when their leader Attila invaded the Roman Empire. While the works in the gold rooms are fascinating both for their historical interest and the skill of their execution, the Diamond room works are also an impressive display of opulence, wealth, and skill. The rooms include a range of diplomatic gifts presented to various tsars, including twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls, which were a diplomatic gift from Shah Nadir of Persia to the Russian Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for fragrances, enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a miniature table. Also on display is a remarkable ring, used to draw the string of a gold bow, with a large diamond, emeralds and rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal. The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th century Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry, including swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver scabbards and decorated with precious stones. A pride of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant incorporating a magnificent Columbian emerald, complemented by gold and enamel. It was made by Spanish craftsmen in the late 16th century. The jewellery collection concludes with items produced by St. Petersburg’s leading jewellers. St. Petersburg attracted craftsmen from all over Europe and at one time boasted such masters as Jérémie Pauzié, Jean-François Xavier Bouddé, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Théremin brothers. The Imperial court and Russian aristocracy commissioned the crafting of refined luxury items, such as watches, clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes, the fashion for which endured in Russia for over a century.

The museum’s collection of ancient Russian icons allows viewers to take a closer look at examples of paintings from antiquity and to deeply immerse themselves in the atmosphere of past centuries. The exhibition presents works from various schools of iconography, each of which displays its own unique characteristics. The art of monumental painting from Great Novogorod is on display in the 14th century icon collection “Saint Nikolai”. The collection is notable for its two large-scale icons, “The Last Judgment” and “The Life of Nikolai”. It also features two double-sided icon-tablets, created at the turn of the 16th century, impressing for their artistic value as well as the high quality of their preservation. Among the icons from Pskov, the icon “The Epiphany” (early 14th c.) deserves the most attention. In this great work, the salient features that make the Pskov school unique are easily visible. Besides this work, the collection also stands out for its display of the two-sided icon that unites the images of the “Savior” and “Our Lady” icons (early 14th c.). The icons created by the Moscow masters constitute a substantial part of the exhibition. Among them, the works of various types of iconography are on display, including examples of celebratory, Christ and prophetic iconographies. Also on display are the remarkable blue-backgrounded icons “The Transfiguration” and “The Birth of Christ”, both created in 16th century. The collection also includes icons from the “Northern Letters“, which were created in the northern territories. These icons were painted by an array of authors, including members of the secular and clerical clergy, trades people and peasants, and are notable for their incredible display of craftsmanship. The earliest icons included in this collection are the works with depictions of Christ, the Apostle Peter, St. Ilya and St. Nikolai, which were produced in the northern regions of the Novgorod lands in the 13th-14th centuries.

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June - July 2015

QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the ticket offices inside the museum and via special terminals at the entrance to the Great Courtyard. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

Features hidden museums It is no secret that St. Petersburg is one of the richest cities in the world in terms of culture. Millions of tourists flock from all over the world to Russia’s beating cultural heart each year, seeking the most treasured historical venues the city has to offer. The Kunstkamera Museum, the Russian Museum and of course the State Hermitage are compulsory attractions for almost every tourist, something which is noticeable especially during the high season. Standing outside the Hermitage, having barely escaped the massive crowds marching through its halls, one can only wonder if there might be an easier way of enjoying what Piter has to offer. Well, yes there is, and to make sure you can enjoy as much of St. Petersburg as possible, we have sacrificed some shoe leather in a quest for some of the lesser known museums of the city. These relatively unknown gems are often overshadowed by their bigger brothers, but now the time has come for them to enter the limelight and steal the show! We have found a whole range of museums where you can wander round in peace, far from the madding crowd – all of the Piter, none of the stress! Arctic and Antarctic Museum Dress up warm and dust off your snow boots, you’re going on an expedition! The Russian State Arctic and Antarctica museum was founded in 1930 as part of the Soviet Arctic and Antarctica Institute. Situated in Avraam Melnikov’s Church, it is currently the largest museum dedicated to polar exploration in the world. The first floor of the museum will guide you through various exhibitions related to the icy landscapes of Antarctica. Various scale models of famous Russian atomic ice breakers decorate the rooms, accompanied by official documents, pieces of machinery and emblems. Full-sized replicas of Russian tents, hovels and equipment show how it is possible for researchers to survive under such harsh conditions. The museum also showcases some of the most impressive mounted animals you will ever see, giving you the opportunity to stare a polar bear straight in the eye with impunity. Along the somewhat hidden staircases to the second floor you will find various photos of animals in their natural habitats. The second floor itself is dedicated to the history and present state of Inuit culture. Be sure to visit the central room on the second floor, where you can find various types of equipment from different countries and a map that displays all the research bases spread across the frigid wastes. QE-3, Ul. Marata 24A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polarmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 70 - 230Rbl. 46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Bread Museum A museum dedicated to bread sounds rather unusual, and in some ways it is. The bread museum in St. Petersburg is the only one of its kind in Russia and one of just thirteen in the world. This unique museum showcases the importance of bread throughout history, something that many people have nowadays forgotten. Bread was not simply a snack: it was in many ways a symbol of harmony between humans and nature. In Russia particularly, bread was considered as something valuable, if not a necessity of life. Rituals practised in old Russia often included bread and it was heralded as a sign of hospitality. The museum focuses on the role of bread in St. Petersburg, showing a wide range of baked products commonly prepared by bakers and confectioners in the nineteenth century. In more recent history, the importance of bread is magnified in a small corner showing the rations during the time of World War II and the siege of Leningrad. This will certainly make you feel lucky the next time you sink your teeth into a sandwich. The bread museum is relatively small, so it is the perfect venue to visit if you have some spare time and do not feel like loafing around. Be sure to ask for English information at the cash register, since the exhibition itself barely has any. QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 73, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 764 11 10. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun, Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 100Rbl. Coffee Museum What do we, the common folk, actually know about coffee, other than that it gives us the will to carry on? Not all that much when you come to think of it, so a trip to the coffee museum is mandatory for both coffee lovers and people who simply like a fun experience. You can only enter the museum by joining a tour, so it is possible you cannot enter immediately after buying your ticket. Luckily, your ticket provides you with a fifty percent discount on all products in the café above the museum, making the wait that much easier. The museum guides speak pretty good English, so you should have no trouble understanding everything that is being said. During the tour you will learn about the history of coffee, different types of beans and various ways of processing, turning you into a true coffee connoisseur. At the end of the tour you are, naturally, given the opportunity to buy various types of coffee. We recommend the museum’s very own blend, which can only be bought and tasted here! QE2, Voskresenskaya nab. 14, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 87 36, www.mcof.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Admission 250Rbl. Show-tasting 600 - 700Rbl. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Features Fabergé Museum As sure as eggs is eggs, the masterpieces created by the House of Fabergé are inextricably linked to St. Petersburg’s imperial past, so it is perhaps surprising that until recently there was no museum in the city specifically devoted to them. In 2013 all that changed, and now one of the world’s finest collections is on display in the magnificently restored Shuvalov Palace, just a couple of minutes’ walk from Nevsky Prospekt. Pride of place goes, naturally, to nine Easter Eggs crafted for the last two Russian tsars, but the collection includes over 4,000 other items of all shapes, sizes and materials, some created by Fabergé’s contemporaries who, while they may have lacked his flair for PR, were certainly masters in their own right. Notwithstanding the intrinsic and financial value of some of the pieces, they are not hidden away behind velvet ropes, in fact you can get right up to the display cases, and we suspect that the cleaners spend most evenings wiping nose-prints off the glass. QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 21, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 11 44, www.fabergemuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 (excursions only), 18:00 - 20:45 (non-excursion). Closed Fri. Admission 300Rbl. GrandMaket Russia

State Memorial Museum of Leningrad Defence and Siege One of the darkest periods in Russian history was undoubtedly the siege of Leningrad. A trip to the State Memorial Museum of Leningrad Defence and Siege allows you to take a peek into history, and to gain a better understanding of just how desperate the situation was in these 900 dark days. The displayed food rations, munitions and propaganda posters may seem a bit morbid to those not interested in war history, but they are all of significant historical value. The museum’s somewhat gloomy halls amplify the uneasy feeling you get when walking past a small silver scale with bullets; bullets that have actually been extracted from the body of a Russian soldier. Even though most of the writings near the exhibits are in Russian, the museum has translated some of the more important information to English as well. We still recommend an audio guide to anyone who is unable to read Russian though, since it will definitely add value to your visit. Also keep in mind that the museum is still clinging on to the old ‘tourist prices’, so do not be surprised when you must pay a little bit more than Russians do. QF-2, Shpalernaya ul. 56, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 43 75, www. vodokanal-museum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and Tue. Admission 50 - 200Rbl.

Trying to fit the Russian Federation into one room is madness, surely? The creators of Grand Maket Russia thought so too, so they used two rooms instead. Covering 800-odd square metres, this grand layout of Russia is the second largest of its kind in the world. Over four hundred artists, modellers and computer scientists helped create this all-encompassing, yet surprisingly detailed representation of Russia. To take in all that the museum has to offer will probably take until nightfall, no matter what time of the day you visit. This is because of a nifty day and night system integrated into the exhibit: when the sun sets in the west, the eastern part of Russia will gradually be bathed in the red light of the morning sun. During the night sequences the entire atmosphere of the rooms change: cars and trains turn on their headlights, houses become illuminated and the snowy regions of Russia seem to become even more magical than before. An informative and most of all fun experience for young and old alike. And don’t forget to try some of the Russian cuisine in the restaurant downstairs afterwards. QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 495 54 65, www. grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 400 450Rbl. Audioguide 150Rbl + 500Rbl deposit.

Sigmund Freud’s Dream Museum Close your eyes and wander off into a world of dreams. That is what you are supposed to do when passing through the door of the museum of Sigmund Freud’s dreams. Do not keep them closed for too long though, or you might bump into something. With his unorthodox theories about dreams and neurology, Sigmund Freud is considered to be the father of psychoanalysis. In Freud’s theories dreams were described as wish-fulfilments, and they were linked to several aspects and recurring themes. The museum sets out to create a physical manifestation of Freud’s dreams and theories. In the first of the two rooms you will find information about Freud himself and drawings of the dreams he described. The second room is a long hallway with glass walls on each side and a bright screen at the end. Behind the walls are many objects which seem to have no relation to one another. Or do they? It is up to you to find out. Using various methods it is possible to alter the objects and retrieve messages hidden within them. The message that you retrieve from them, however, depends on your own state of mind and vision.QC-1, PS, Bolshoy pr. 18A, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 456 22 90, www.freud.ru. Open Tue, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Admission 150Rbl.

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June - July 2015

What to see

St. Petersburg‘s Historical Outskirts Visit the grand palaces and parks of the Tsars No visit to St Petersburg would seem complete without seeing Peter the Great‘s famous masterpiece of gold fountains and all things shiny, Peterhof. But south of the “Venice of the North” and along the Finnish Gulf surely must be the region of the world most densely populated with palaces, each with its own splendour to rival Peter’s Summer Palace. These are undeniable symbols of the decadence and absolute power of the Tsars. They are each as different as the tastes and fancies of those who owned them, from austere palaces and immaculate lawns to rolling parkland and landscaped gardens full of surprises. In this feature we‘ve picked out the best parks, palaces and attractions, but there‘s more to be said about them than could ever fit in our guide book - explore them for yourself!

Palaces Fit For A Tsar Much as any self-respecting Russian billionaire wouldn‘t be seen dead without the latest tablet computer and stateof-the-art yacht controlled by smartphone app, Russian nobility settled for only the best in modern innovation and wizardry. Built at the start of the 18th century, Peterhof‘s legendary fountains were an engineering marvel of their time, powered entirely by cleverly manipulated water pressure without the need for pumps. The Alexander Palace in Pushkin (built 1792-96) was early on electrified and telephones were installed; there was even an early lift that went between the children‘s rooms and the Empress’s suite, and a “home cinema” in the Semicircular Hall came later. Another innovation was the first railway in Russia, built in 1837 between Vitebsky Vokzal (then Tsarskoselsky) and Pushkin. At first carriages were drawn by horses taking wealthy residents of the capital to their summer homes in the imperial suburbs. More than just a transfer point, however, the Vitebsky station pavilion was a destination 48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

in itself and billed as an entertainment centre named the Vauxhall Pavilion, a title later morphed into the term vokzal and adopted to mean any significant railway station. Johann Strauss II and Franz Liszt can be counted among the performers in the late 1830s. The stations at Pavlovsk and particularly in Pushkin are noteworthy for their beautiful art nouveau decoration and elegant chandeliers and mosaics. Life in the palaces around St Petersburg was pretty good for children too, provided, of course, that you were the children of nobility. In the Marble Room of the Alexander Palace, they built a slide that took up over half the room. An even more daring version of this was to be found in the park of the Oranienbaum estate (built from 1710 onwards) further along the Finnish gulf and was a bit like an early rollercoaster. From the elaborate pavilion, one would be propelled downwards over a series of three hills on a cart running along wooden tracks. Sadly (or perhaps fortunately, if you‘ve got a liking for health and safety) all that remains today is one grand pavilion. No expenses were spared in designing the interiors and exteriors of their homes, and all passing European fads were catered to. The Catherine Palace in Pushkin, built in its currently form in 1756 under orders from Empress Elizabeth, used a hundred kilograms of gold for the facade and was so insanely lavish that even Catherine the Great thought it was a bit much. And the most ridiculous and stunning bit of all was the Amber Room, famed for its beauty and once named “the eighth wonder of the world” (though that might have been a slight exaggeration). It was decorated with over six tonnes worth of amber panels backed with gold leaf and mirrors. After failing to successfully remove it before German forces arrived they covered it with wallpaper hoping nobody would notice, but of course the Germans had heard of it before being installed here it lived in Berlin. It only took the Germans 36 hours to take apart. After being put on show in Königsberg (now Kaliningrad) nobody knows quite where it went, some say buried in a mine, others say on a sunken submarine. Whilst the fate of the original Amber Room remains a mystery, great efforts have been made to recreate it with the help of a generous benefactor, and it can now be seen at the palace once again in all its full glory. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see Of course no luxury palace would be complete without immaculate gardens in the latest styles. Peter was inspired by formal French styles at Peterhof, whilst at Pavlovsk the English landscape garden with sweeping lawns, lakes and pavilions was the flavour of the day. All sorts of exotic cultures had their moment in high fashion. The Catherine Park is a testament to this and is brimful of quirky bridges and stylized buildings. One of the largest is the Chinese Village, originally based on one of Catherine the Great‘s engravings, consisting of ten tiny houses and a theatre. Fake romanticlooking ruins, Egyptian and Greek temples, Dutch castles, an entire miniature world tour could be taken around the palace grounds. At Pavlovsk (built from 1777 onwards), Maria Fedorovna, the widow of Tsar Paul I, put a few more practical touches into the park. Yet another German princess who married into Russian royalty, Maria Fedorovna often wanted to be apart from the intrigues of court and built herself a dairy in the palace gardens. Distinguished guests would be offered simple country fare and dairy products in contrast to the riches of the palace table. The Empress herself was even known to milk a cow or two.

The People behind the Palaces Our story starts with the man who once stood on a windswept beach looking out at the Finnish Gulf and announced that here he would build his capital: Peter the Great, founder of St. Petersburg. His shiny new city was to be a window onto Europe and a symbol of a new enlightened Russia, and he needed somewhere to watch over it all from. The Versailles-style palace at Peterhof was the perfect way to tell the world that Peter was a modern, Europeanstyle leader and could win wars and throw lavish parties with the best of them. Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov, a palace further west along the coast from Peterhof, was perhaps most beloved by Peter III, husband of Catherine the Great. Though he brought in a number of democratic reforms such as disbanding the repressive secret police, making killing peasants illegal and allowing aristocrats to travel abroad, he remained unpopular, so much so that after six months on the throne he was allegedly assassinated. Somehow, people seemed to like him a bit better after that, and there were several popular revolts led by people posing as Peter, most notably the Pugachev rebellion. Of all the palaces in the area, Oranienbaum was the only one to escape capture in World War Two, at which time it was a school; some say that Peter‘s ghost saved the children from bombardment. And so from the early glory days of Peter the First to the last days of the Romanovs; after abdicating, Tsar Nicholas II and his family spent their last days at the Alexander Palace chopping and collecting firewood, clearing away snow and creating a kitchen garden, watched over by revolutionary soldiers. The palace that had once been their playground was now their prison. The end of an era for these palaces and for Russia came on August 1st, 1917, when the Bolsheviks came to take them away, never to return. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Getting There Pushkin – Pavlovsk Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 545 or take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186 or marshrutka 286, 287, 347a, 545a, for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 372, 375a, 383, 493 or marshrutka 299, 286, 513, 521. You can also take a train from Kupchino metro/train station. Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg proper and Peterhof ). By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains, ask for Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace). For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 344, 348, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit next to the fountains. For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station. To Peterhof you can also take the Meteor speedboat from Admiralteiskaya nab. 2. See more: www. peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof.

June - July 2015

What to see

Opening Times and Tickets Oranienbaum QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org. Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces 400Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl. Pavlovsk QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum. ru. Park open daily 06:00 - 24:00. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl (free entrance 06:00 - 10:00 and 18:00 - 24:00). Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl. Peterhof QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum. ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:30 - 21:00, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission to lower park adults 500Rbl and students 250Rbl. The upper park is free. Admission Great Palace adults 550Rbl. and students 300Rbl. You can also buy tickets online. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450 58 06. Pushkin QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine Park open 07:00 - 23:00. Catherine’s Palace open 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission: Park 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 520Rbl. Strelna QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace. ru. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Call before you visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. Excursion in English 3,000Rbl (1,5 hour up to 15 people, each participant has to pay individual admission 300Rbl.) 50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Attached onto the side of the Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe Selo is the Imperial Lyceum, whose most famous pupil, Alexander Pushkin, went on to become Russia‘s most famous and important poet. At the age of 14 he wrote his “Recollections at Tsarskoe Selo”, which brought him fame amongst poetry circles of the day. Even at the time (the start of the 19th century) he felt that the town had already fallen from its former greatness, writing in the “Recollections”: “Here every step gives birth to recollections in the soul of years gone by”. Looking around, with a sigh the Russian proclaims: “All has disappeared, the great is no more!”, “Those golden times have forever passed by”. Pushkin‘s poetry was no less beloved in the Soviet Era, hence the renaming of Tsarskoe Selo - the “Royal Village” - to Pushkin. A much more anonymous but no less important role in the history of the parks and palaces south of the Northern Capital was played by the employees of Peterhof, Pavlovsk and Pushkin during the Second World War. As news came of the arrival of enemy forces on Soviet territory, the workers of the estates had the monumentous task on their hands of somehow protecting these historic sites. Some of the important statues were buried and marked on a map so they could be located again. At Pavlovsk, Noah‘s Ark-style, one piece of each furniture set was saved and the rest left behind. They worked by candlelight, covered the floors with sand, boarded up the windows, and just as the opposition army approached the town’s outskirts, the last vehicles of precious goods set off for soon-to-be-besieged Leningrad. In their absence the stately homes and parks became shells of their former selves, but at least some of their hidden treasures remained safe. Though many of the palaces south of St. Petersburg are now museums, one at at least has returned to serve its original purpose - housing the country‘s rulers. The Konstantinovsky Palace in Strelna (originally completed in 1807) is an official residence of President Vladimir Putin, who in 2001 had it rebuilt after it was largely destroyed by German occupation, when it was used a naval base. It was originally to be the site of Peter the Great‘s summer palace, but when the site was found to be unsuitable for the complex fountains he wanted, it was passed over in favour of a location further along the Finnish Gulf which went on to be the famous Peterhof. Practicalities that stopped the 18th century architects of the palace were no match for Putin and the original vision for fountains and bridges were finally brought to life. Not far from the palace is the dacha of Peter von Lindström, doctor to a branch of the Romanov family; nowadays the building hosts a restaurant and a museum of the 2006 G8 summit, as well as an intriguing exhibit named “3 minutes with Putin”. Don‘t get too excited - sadly you don‘t get to talk to the man himself, but just watch as he ruffles some papers, reads the History of the Baltic Flotilla and thinks important thoughts at the window to a soundtrack of atmospheric music. Accompanied, of course, by his faithful advisor and beloved labrador Connie Paulgrave, who really merits a feature to herself. It‘s all done with clever mirrors apparently. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

What to see Happily Ever After? Strangely enough, we owe much about the estates‘ current condition to the Soviets, who uncharacteristically looked kindly on this part of Tsarist history, starting to rebuild them straight after the war. Aleksei Shchusev, the architect of the Lenin Mausoleum, said: „If we do not do this, we who know and remember these palaces in all their glory as they were, then the next generation will never be able to reconstruct them.“ It was quite a hunt to track down where the palaces‘ furniture and other items had got to - some had got as far as Latvia and even beyond. Strolling around any of the palaces or parks you can appreciate what a momentous task the restoration of these historic sites was, especially without the unlimited workforce and bottomless wallets of the Tsars. But it‘s still an ongoing project; to raise funds to recreate the stupendous opulence of Catherine Palace in Pushkin, for example, its grandest rooms have been leased out to stars like Elton John for a one-off concert. The estates are favourites with both the local public and tourists, picnics with friends, holiday photo opportunities or family days out. Thanks to the careful restoration they‘ve undergone, they are a window onto a vanished world of extremes and one which ended abruptly with the Revolution. Fittingly, they are now open to be enjoyed not by a select, wealthy few, but by all.

ed in an Italian harbour while the artist sat ashore, presumably blithely sketching the destruction. The jewel in Peterhof’s glittering crown has got to be the monumental Grand Cascade made up of 64 fountains and more than 200 statues, bronze reliefs and other shiny stuff.. The design was conceived by Peter the Great himself. The centre piece is giant statue of Samson fighting a lion, symbolizing Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War (1700-1721). The twenty metre high jet of water that shoots out of the lion’s jaws is the highest in the park. Around the cascade you can challenge your friends to a round of spot the mythological heroes while you search for Bacchus, Aphrodite, Hermes and Achilles and co. Almost every Greek god you can think of is up on a pedestal here. All of the palace’s 173 fountains, jets, water arches, sprays and tranquil pools are courtesy of the pressure created by natural elevation and all of the water is from the natural springs lying just below the upper gardens. A tour of the grotto, located just behind the grand cascade, includes an explanation of the remarkable technology and also gives a bit of insight as to Peter’s sense of humor – reaching for the bowl of fruit at the central table will result in a surprise soaking. Oh, that Peter.

Gatchina palace

Peterhof Must-Visits To visit Peterhof is to travel back over three centuries in time to an era of unchecked ambition, limitless power and opulent beauty. It is telling that the very first palace to be built here was named Monplaisir (My Pleasure). The best known, however, is of course the Great Palace, built on a 16 meter bluff overlooking the lower gardens and out onto the gulf, and its legendary cascading fountains. Apparently not ‘great’ enough when originally built, the Great Palace has been altered and expanded much over the course of its history and ownership. The exterior is surprisingly harmonious, given that it was over 200 years in the making and has been touched by German, Italian, Russian and French architects alike. It goes without saying that the interiors have to be seen to be believed. When Peter’s daughter and heir Elizabeth took over she hired Bartolemeo Francesco Rastrelli, an architect whose fingerprints are all over St. Petersburg, including no less a building than the Hermitage. To call the interiors merely opulent would be a mistake. Rastrelli, it seems, never met a surface he didn’t want to gild and the ballroom and grand staircase are the epitome of this idea. Rich furnishings, handsome ornaments and artworks complete the grandiose royal residence, all lovingly restored following extensive damage incurred during the Second World War. Of particular note is the Chesme Hall. Originally used as a reception area, as it is adjacent to the throne room, Catherine the Great had the hall redone to showcase 12 massive canvases by German painter Jacob Philippe Hackaert. Each of the canvases depict sea battles from the Russo-Turkish War of 1768-1774, especially the Chesme harbour battle. Legend has it, Hackaert’s initial efforts proved inaccurately tame, without enough blazing ships and flying timber. To help him out, Catherine had a frigate explodwww.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

From the outside it may have the austere look of a military institution, but step inside and you can tell that the Gatchina Palace was home to the Romanov family, though the rooms are not as luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has various temporary and permanent exhibitions including a weaponry display and the church at the top of Gatchina’s main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big attraction is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina’s palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration work is still in progress. The nice leafy park with its many brooks and bridges is a great place to stretch your legs or have a picnic in the sun! Getting there: From Moskovskaya metro, in the street behind the Lenin statue take bus N431 or marshrutka 18 and 18A; from Baltisky station, take a train to Gatchina station, which is also called Baltisky.Q45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace: Krasnoarmeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92, www.gatchinapalace.ru. Park open 06:00 - 23:00. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed first Tue of the month. Admission to the park is free. Admission to palace and pavilions in the park 120 - 250Rbl. Family ticket (two adults and children) 600Rbl. June - July 2015

Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Natalia Shilenok, concierge at the W St. Petersburg Hotel. My name is Natalia Shilenok and I was born here in St. Petersburg. Most of my childhood was spent in Vitebsk, a small town in Belarus. At the age of 18 I returned back to my hometown and fell in love with our charming and magnificent city all over again. I started my hotel career as a concierge more than 10 years ago and right now it is more than a profession - it’s a way of life and my destiny! It is never boring and makes me innovative and quick to deliver great experiences to our guests and ourselves Can you tell us something about W Hotel? What makes it special? W is a luxury brand but oriented to young and progressive people. It is the first W hotel in Russia. The key words are innovative design, music, fashion and intoxicating energy. However you look at it, there’s a link between classics and modern. It greatly differs from traditional stunning grand hotels but has definitely found its place in the classical architecture of the city. The chief hotel Italian designer Antonio Citterio was inspired by the beauty and richness of Faberge eggs and their hidden secrets. So behind the classical grey facade we open a different world of stylish interiors and unexpected modern details. What I like best in my work here are passionate people who take pride in the work we do here and the spirit of collaboration in everything we do. What hidden gem in St. Petersburg can you recommend to our readers? What is a must-visit in St. Petersburg during summer time? If you wish to escape the city crowds during hot summer days and experience other places, I’d recommend going to Gatchina Palace or the city of Kronstadt situated in the middle of the Gulf of Finland. For me they are not any less interesting than the main outskirts of the city as Petergof or Catherine’s Palace in Pushkin. Gatchina is a very romantic place and one of its hidden secrets is the underground tunnel running from the palace to the ornamental lake. In Kronstadt the most striking attraction is the Naval Cathedral painted in white and light blue colors (also the gold trim and carvings give an overwhelming sense of grandeur). Another “must” is seeing our city from a different angle – from the water side! We often call St. Petersburg the “Venice of the North” thanks of its numerous canals and islands. And during the trip you can try to imagine yourself in the 18th - 19th century, where canals and boats existed and busses did not. It will give you a better feeling of the nature and character of old Petersburg. Another option is to find yourself on the roof top of the Loft Etagi Project. A very interesting and romantic way to explore the city from the air! 52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Where to stay Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which allows you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater to. The traveller looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

5 Stars Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. belmond Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg QĐĄ-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms. Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms.

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Golden Garden boutique Hotel QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms. Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. Radisson Royal Hotel QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms. Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. Trezzini Palace Hotel QC-3, Universitetskaya nab. 21, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 66 22, trezzinipalace.com. 21 rooms. W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.

U menya zabronirovan nomer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I have a reservation

June - July 2015

Where to stay 4 Stars Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru. 214 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms. Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms. Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.

54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms. Radisson Sonya Hotel QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. 173 rooms . Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms.

3 Stars AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. Herzen House QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms. IBIS St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.

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Shopping Gifts and Souvenirs Chocolate Museum QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A Gallery Mikhailov QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A La Petite Opera Gallery QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox. net. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Lomonosov Porcelain Factory QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Nevsky Souvenir Shop QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Souvenirs Fair QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A

Bookshops Bukvoed QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Dom Knigy QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK

Shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK Nevsky Centre QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AKW Passage QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK Eliseevsky Store QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Skolko stoit? – How much is it? www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

DLT Department store Dom Leningradskoi Torgovli (DLT, House of Leningrad Trade) is one of the oldest department stores in St. Petersburg and a legendary name for Russian market. Since 2005, the building has been under control of Mercury, a leading luxury goods distribution company. In 2012, after a long-term restoration, DLT became the flagman of TSUM, Moscow based department store. Since DLT opening, St. Petersburg finally got its own world-class fashion center. DLT stands in a row with top Moscow and European stores with its developed infrastructure, excellent service and wide range of luxury goods. It is without a doubt a must-visit place of the city. DLT building has 6 floors with a total area of 32 000 sq. m. Each floor is assigned for a special category of goods: jewelry, accessories, cosmetics, perfumery and interior items are represented on the 1st floor; men’s and women’s clothing by luxury brands – on 2nd and 3rd floor respectively, women’s clothing by modern designers, denim and luggage – on the 4th floor. In August 2014 kids clothing and accessories department on the 5th floor was opened and it became one of the largest of its kind in Europe. While the building which you can see today dates back to 1908, the history of the site goes back to the days of Peter the Great, belonging to the mansion of Artemy Volynsky, a remarkable figure from the 18th century who climbed through the ranks from soldier to become a diplomat and eventually the governor of Kazan. In 1900 the building was purchased by the Guard Economic Society. The construction of the building was based on the project of architect Ernest Virrikh. In 1918 the trading house was transformed into the first state department store. During the Second World War and the Blockade of Leningrad, the building was terribly damaged, but right after the war, it was restored. In 1945-1946 the Central Commercial Department store located here. In 1965 DLT began to specialize in children’s goods and has gradually become the main fashion landmark. DLT has always been famous for the best selection of brands and products. As for today, the DLT brands portfolio contains more than 700 brands, many of which are represented in St. Petersburg exclusively, for example Billionaire, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Tom Ford and more. QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW June - July 2015

Shopping Russian Souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following: Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.

Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.

56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Caviar Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

Shapka ushanka If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-thetourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops all over the city. Valenki Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your skin as you walk.

Anything pic kled Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers, tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Expat & Business Expat Contacts Dutch Club St. Petersburg Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com. English Communication Club Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are organised daily. internations Qwww.internations.org.

Cultural Centres British Book Centre QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britaniaspb.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Danish Cultural Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Finnish Institute QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Foreign Literature Library QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, closed Sun. Goethe Institute QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Institut Francais QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Istituto Italiano di Cultura QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Japan Center QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands Institute QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.Closed Sat, Sun.

THANN Sanctuary Spa Founded in 2002 in Thailand, and now operating in over 25 countries worldwide, THANN Natural Beauty produces a range of unique skincare products using natural ingredients, formulated from botanicals derived combining the art of natural therapy with modern dermatological science. The core ingredient in THANN’s wide range of products is the Vitamin E-rich extracts of rice bran oil. The THANN Sanctuary Spa, opened in St. Petersburg in 2010, encapsulates the company’s holistic approach, helping you to re-discover your inner physical and mental wellness. The warm grey colour scheme, soothing light and specially designed furniture aim to induce calm and tranquility in contract to the hectic city outside. A highlight among the wide range of treatments is the THANN Sanctuary Signature Massage - a deep tissue oil massage, using palm strokes and thumb pressure to relieve and heal muscular pains. QE-3, Nevsky Centre, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 449 08 36, www. thann-spa.ru. A

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HEALTH AND beauty Royal Thai Royal Thai is perfectly located as a relaxing retreat right in the city centre. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddha statues and dim lighting greet you as you enter and set the tone for a calming and rejuvenating experience. Treatments from expert Thai masseurs are available from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and scrubs and foot massages, and as well as an assortiment of traditional Thai treatments like herbal and aroma therapy massages to choose from. The focus here is on mind, body and spirit. After one session here you’ll feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe. Royal Thai has numerous other locations including one on the 6th floor of the Nevsky Centre at Nevsky pr. 114116 (tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29). Gift certificates available. QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 54 06, www.royalthai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. A

Expat & Business The Expat Experience Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Cornelia Brinkman and I was born in Germany. I am 43 years old and I am in the hospitality business for more than 20 years. I started my career in 1991 as an apprentice in the hotel industry and I have never looked back since. I love working and being with people from all backgrounds, ages, cultures and countries. There is never a dull moment at my workplace and I thoroughly enjoy it! In addition I enjoy the benefit to be able to travel around the world and to stay in some really cool and awesome places not to forget the endless opportunities to try out new things and to meet different and interesting people. What makes St. Petersburg special for you? Can you name for us three things about living and working in St. Petersburg that you enjoy the most. I am very fortunate to be able to work and live in one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I can never get tired of the architectural structure and the beauty of the buildings and on a daily basis I discover something new. My colleagues definitely play a big part too and I am very glad to have so many great and welcoming people around me. I also enjoy the variety of events offered in the city, I am a huge fan of ballet – I have seen Swan Lake so many times but I still buy tickets to go and watch it whenever I can. Can you compare it with other big cities you’ve been to/worked in? I have been travelling to many places in North America, Europe and Asia and I worked in different countries too. Whilst every place I have been and seen holds a unique memory for me I must admit living in St. Petersburg for the last 1.5 years must be one of the best I have experienced so far. I feel very safe and secure and connected to the city. What are your favorite spots in or outside the city to visit in summer? I visit frequently restaurants in the city center and in the summer I enjoy sitting on the terraces and watching people passing by. I also love just walking around the small streets and backyards in the city and along the water. Pushkin is another place I like to visit during the summertime and being on a boat and enjoying the beauty of the city from a different ankle is too a must be. What are your plans for the future? I have been in the city for only 1.5 years, I believe my time here is not coming to an end as of yet but being part of an international company the opportunities to work in different parts of the world are endless and new work things can pop up quickly. In the meantime I will continue to enjoy every minute of being here! 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Religious Services Buddhist Temple QPrimorsky pr. 91, MStaraya Derevnya, tel. (+7) 911 224 68 79, www.dazan.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Catholic Church of St. Catherine QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina (Swedish church) QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/ Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/. Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Grand Choral Synagogue of St. Petersburg QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00.

clinics American Medical Clinic and Hospital QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90, www.amclinic.com. Open 24hrs. Euromed Medical Center QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Open 24hrs. Scandinavia clinic QE-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

International Schools German School QB-2, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutscheschule.ru. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infant School (British International School) QF-3, Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mandarina Day (Preschool Child Development Center) QF-3, Nevsky pr. 147A, MPl. Al. Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 924 24 98, www.mandarinaday.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. The International Pre-School QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Expat & Business Accountants and Lawyers Acsour QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Avenir Group QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Deloitte Touche CIS QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center Gustaf, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06, www. deloitte.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PW EMG QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia. com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ernst and Young QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. Open 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mannheimer Swartling QD-2, Ul. Mal. Konyushennaya 1/3A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Moore Stephens International QE-1, Bolshoy Sampsonievsky pr. 4/6A, business centre Monblan, off. 204, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 332 28 51, www.moorestephens.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www.pgplaw.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PriceWaterhouseCoopers QD-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at www.internations.org. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: “To look for a needle in a haystack” If a Russian says this sentence to you, try not to be discouraged! This phrase literally translates into, “to search for wind in the field”, and has a similar meaning to the English phase, “to look for a needle in a haystack” or “to go on a wild goose chase”. You can use this phrase anytime that you know the assignment will be challenging, yet you should continue to pursue it. Chekhov famously used the phrase in his poem “Boots”, about someone trying to get a pair of boots back to their rightful owner. Although the task at hand may be difficult, as it was for the character in the poem that had to search the town while wearing two left shoes, remember that there is still hope.

Liden & Denz opened in 1992 and is one of St. Petersburg’s oldest language schools. They have expanded into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though individual lessons are also available. Classrooms are bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for student use, plus wi-fi if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Derzhavin Institute The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term, long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of 8 students per group. The staff speak many different languages and have experience in teaching at both Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise accommodation, excursions and other social activities for students. QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. June - July 2015

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Street register 1-28-ya liniya

B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.

C-3

Rubinshteina ul.

E-3

Admiralteisky pr.

D-3

E-2

Ryleeva ul.

E-2

Kovensky per.

Alexandra Nevskogo most

F-3

Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.

F-2

Sadovaya ul.

E-2,3

Angliskaya nab.

C-3

Kronverkskaya nab.

D-2

Sampsonievsky most

D-1 E-2

Anichkov most

E-3

Kronversky pr.

D-1

Sapyorny per.

Arsenalnaya nab.

E-2

Kutuzova nab.

D-2/E-2

Shpalernaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Bakunina pr.

F-3

Lermontovsky pr.

C-3/C-4

Shvedsky per.

D-2

Baskov per.

E-2

Letny sad

D-2

Sinopskaya nab.

F-3

Belinskogo ul.

E-2

Leitenanta Shmidta nab.

C-3

Smolnaya nab.

F-2

Birzhevaya liniya

C-2

Ligovsky pr.

E-3/E-4

Solyanoy per.

E-2

Blagoveshchensky most

C-2

Liteiny most

E-2

Sotsialisticheskaya ul.

E-3

Blokhina ul.

C-2

Liteiny pr.

E-2/E-3

Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.

E-3/F-2,3

Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Lomonosova ul.

D-3/E-3

Spassky per.

D-3 B-2,3/C-2

Bol. Morskaya ul.

C-3/D-3

Makarova nab.

C-2

Sredniy pr. (V0)

Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.

D-3

Mal. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Starorusskaya ul.

F-3

Bolsheokhtinsky most

F-2

Mal. Morskaya ul.

D-3

Stolyarny per.

D-3

Bolshoy pr. (PS)

C-1,2

Mal. Posadskaya

D-1

Stremyannaya ul.

E-3

Bolshoy pr. (VO)

B-3/C-2

Mal. Sadovaya

E-3

Suvorovsky pr.

F-2,3

Chernyshevskogo pr.

E-2

Maly pr. (PS)

C-1

Sverdlovskaya nab.

F-1,2

Chkalovsky pr.

C-1

Maly pr. (VO)

B-1

Tavricheskaya ul.

F-2 E-2

Degtyarnaya ul.

F-3

Manezhnaya pl.

E-3

Chaikovskogo ul.

Dekabristov ul.

C-3/D-3

Marata ul.

E-3

Teatralnaya pl.

C-3

Dostoevskogo ul.

E-3

Marsovo pole

D-2

Troitsky most

D-2

Dumskaya ul.

D-3

Mayakovskogo ul.

E-2/E-3

Tuchkov most

C-2

Dvortsovaya nab.

D-2

Mendeleevskaya liniya

C-2

Tverskaya ul.

F-2

Efimova ul.

D-3

Mikhailovskaya ul.

D-3

Universitetskaya nab.

C-2,3

Furshtatskaya ul.

E-2

Millionnaya ul.

D-2

Vladimirsky pr.

E-3

Galernaya ul.

C-3

Moskovsky pr.

D-3/D-4

Vosstaniya ul.

E-2,3

Glinki ul.

C-3

Moiky reky nab.

C-3/D-2,3

Vosstaniya pl.

E-3 D-3

Goncharnaya ul.

E-3

Muchnoy per.

D-3

Voznesensky pr.

Gorokhovaya ul.

D-3

Mytninskaya nab.

С-2/D-2

Zagorodny pr.

D-3,4/E-3

Grafsky per.

E-3

Nekrasova ul.

E-2

Zhukovskogo ul.

E-3

Griboedova kan. nab.

C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.

D-3/E-3/F-3

Grivtsova per.

D-3

Ostrovskogo pl.

E-3

Inzhenernaya ul.

E-3

Pestelya ul.

E-2

Abbreviations

Isaakievskaya pl.

D-3

Petrovskaya nab.

D-2

Ul. – Ulitsa

Iskusstv pl.

D-3

Pirogovskaya nab.

E-1/E-2

Pr. – Prospekt

Italyanskaya ul.

D-3/D-4

Pochtamtskaya ul.

C-3

Pl. – Ploshchad

Kadetskaya liniya

C-2

Poltavskaya ul.

F-3

Bul. – Bulvar

Kamennoostrovsky pr.

D-1

Pushkinskaya ul.

E-3

Per. – Pereulok

Karavannaya ul.

E-3

Radishcheva ul.

E-2/E-3

Kan. – Kanal

Kazanskaya ul.

D-3

Razyezzhaya ul.

E-3

Nab. – Naberezhnaya

Kirochnaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.

C-3,4/D-3

Bol. – Bolshaya

Kolokolnaya ul.

E-3

Robespyera nab.

E-2

Mal. – Malaya

62 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Metro map

Advertise on this map! Call: (+7) 812 448 88 65 www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

June - July 2015

Moscow

Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife reflect its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

Red Square The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other end you will find the State Historical Museum which details the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying the magnificent view. GUM QRed Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) QRed Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. State Historical Museum QRed Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl.

Don’t forget to pick up a free copy of Moscow In Your Pocket in your hotel! 64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin. Cathedral of the Archangel Michael A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Moscow Annunciation Cathedral This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.

Churches Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Novodevichy Monastery QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Pokrovsky Monastery QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. GULAG History Museum QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

getting there Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress train which brings you right to the centre.

Luxury Trains to Moscow If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:38 and arrive in Moscow at 09:01. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

June - July 2015

Moscow hotels

Aeroexpress Trains All international airports in Moscow have a fast train connection to the capital’s city centre. All? Yes, all! Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website where you can purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You can buy an electronic ticket from the official website www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view train timetables. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QKalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). hhhhh Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QUl. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). hhhhh Hotel National QMokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms (Room prices start at 8,500Rbl). hhhhh Lotte Hotel Moscow QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). hhhhh Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QTverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). hhhhh Metropol QTeatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 9,440Rbl). hhhhh Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). hhhhh AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). hhhh Best Western Plus Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). hhhh Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Q1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). hhhh Novotel Moscow Centre QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms (Room prices start at 4,602Rbl). hhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl). hhh Comrade Hostel QUl. Maroseyka 11, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. (Prices start from 600Rbl). iVan Hostel QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. (Prices start from 700Rbl). st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

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