Moscow In Your Pocket June/July'15 by Russia In Your Pocket

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Moscow June - July 2015

More than 11 years in Russia!

inyourpocket.com

NÂ°38

Moscow meets summer

Relax, enjoy the sun and soak up some local culture

Zamoskvorechye and Pokrovka

The best walking routes in the capital

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

In the News

Arrival & Getting Around

Public transport

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 10 Concerts 10 Summer festivals 12 Exhibitions 14

Features

What to see 36 Pokrovka & Zamoskvorechye 16 The Kremlin 36 110th anniversary of Metropol Hotel 20 River cruises 37 The Russian beer revolution 32 Churches and monasteries 38 Hidden museums 46 Modern art centres 38 Travel feature: Oryol 60 Museums 39 Russian history in short 61 Russian icons 40 Where to eat 22 Parks and gardens 42 Russian summer menu 23 Writerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s museums 43 Food from former republics 24 Gorky Park & Vorobyevy Gory 44 Summer terraces 31 Where to stay 48 Nightlife 33 Shopping 50 Dance and drink the night away Russian souvenirs 50 Shopping centres 51 Business directory

Expat & Lifestyle 54 The Expat Experience Column: Trolls and trademarks Column: S lyogkim parom!

54 56 57

St. Petersburg

Visit the Northern capital

Maps & Index City map Street index Metro map www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

62 66 67 June - July 2015

Foreword Count yourself lucky if you happen to be in Moscow during the summer months. Moscow winters are long and cold therefore the whole city flourishes as soon as temperatures begin to climb. Into late evening young and old can be seen ambling in the parks and walking along the romantic boulevards in downtown Moscow. The city that never sleeps, as the famous saying goes, may not have the sea, but a scenic river. Through the years the Moscow River embankment has become an extremely popular and glamorous place to pass a warm summers day. Along the embankment of Gorky park, you will find many places to sit and read a book, sunbathe or hire a bike (read more on page 44). Walkers should head along the southern bank of the Moscow River and explore the historical Zamoskovrechy district (page 18) and those who want to know what is beyond Red Square can read our Pokrovka feature (page 17), a vibrant area not far from the Kremlin. Summer days can be hot and long in Moscow and therefore it is essential to know areas to chill out. Over the years Moscow has been enriched by many attractive summer terraces, which are the perfect place to cool off. For beer lovers we have good news - the beer feature on page 32 tells you where to try the fruits of Russia’s craft beer revolution. There is also much more on offer in Moscow deserving of your attention. In recent years Moscow’s festival culture has developed rapidly and nowadays many famous and promising international and local artists find their way to the Russian capital. Open up page 12 and learn more about the best (music) festivals to be held in Moscow and its surrounding areas. For those who want to see more of Russia and want to travel by train our travel feature (page 60) is dedicated to the birthplace of famous writer Ivan Turgenev. Although summers are typically warm and dry, at times Moscow will experience a surprise bout of heavy rain or ‘levin’ as the Russians call it. Such days are perfect for a museum excursion. As well as information about the numerous interesting exhibitions, we have also included a list of ‘hidden museums’, though less famous, they are no less interesting. Time to enjoy a wonderful summertime in Moscow! Wabke Waaijer, Russia In Your Pocket.

E S S E N TI A L

Moscow In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Editor-in-Chief Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler, Luc Jones, Bauke van der Meer Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 5 times per year with supplements, No 38, 01.06.2015, 60 000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story Gorky Park is Moscow’s biggest playground for kids and adults. There’s so much to do but so little time - let our in-depth guide help you make the most of your day there! Go to page 44 to learn more!

About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

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4 Moscow In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also been applying the finishing touches to our new digital platform at inyourpocket. com. Radically redesigned and restructured to place the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover, our new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats. To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). moscow.inyourpocket.com

In the News Moscow Marathon The third annual Moscow Marathon, the city’s largest sporting event, will take place on September 20th. As a warm-up to the event, the first 5km race debuted in April, followed by the Moscow half marathon for both 21.1km and 10km in May. The Night Race (July 18) and the Colorful Race (June 21) promise to add an extra fun factor to this otherwise challenging endeavor. This year the Marathon will also be accompanied by the largest sports exhibition in Russia, where the world’s leading sports gear companies will present their latest equipment, gadgets and sportswear. It’s still not too late to catch up on your resolutions for 2015! www.moscowmarathon.org

Technology, science and the arts Geeky is the new cool and Geek Picnic (June 13-14 in Moscow and June 20-21 in Saint Petersburg) is proof of that. An independent Russian project created severals years ago by enthusiasts who believe that the future is here and now, this year’s Geek Picnic is set to be bigger than ever and aims to explore the theme of global cyborgization. Ethical, technological and scientific questions will be discussed and the highlight of the event will be Russia’s first ever gathering of people who have prosthetic limbs to share their knowledge and experience! Other big names such as Victoria Modesta, Neil Harbisson, Jens Naumann and Jason Barnes are set to take to the stage. www.msk.geek-picnic.ru

Paradise for kids “Children’s World” (Detsky Mir) is a legendary Soviet-era shopping mall in the heart of Moscow, beloved by children and adults alike. In 2008, the building was closed its doors for renovation, but is now finally back in full swing to delight the youngsters with toys, fairytales and joy. The new and improved children’s department store boasts a vaulted ceiling topped with a glass dome featuring pictures from Russian fairy tales. A sea of toys and attractions, life-size cartoon characters available for photo ops along with a railroad and a miniature version of Moscow’s famous Kremlin and Bolshoi Theater make this for a fantastic day out for the kids – even if you’re not planning on buying anything. www.cdm-moscow.ru

Food in the city Food, glorious food - and all in one place! We’re talking about “Oda! Eda!”, Eastern Europe’s largest gastronomical festival that is taking place in Moscow (June 27-28) and St. Petersburg (July 25-26). Last year more than 50,000 people enjoyed all kinds of noms from over 200 different gastronomical projects and restaurants. This year the theme is “Russian Gastronomical Traditions” but that doesn’t mean it’s going to be all borsch: exquisite Russian food from the days of Pushkin, Tolstoy and Dostoevsky will be re-interpreted according to contemporary tastes and techniques. Also check out some master-classes, lectures and a series of battles: restaurateurs vs critics and professional chefs vs babushkas! www. одаеда.рф, www.facebook.com/odaedablog

Russia day Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор Ксения Элзес Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 60 000 экз. No38. 01.06.2015

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June 12 is another opportunity to relax and enjoy the Russian lifestyle. The day officially celebrates the Russian Federation declaring independence from the Soviet Union back in 1990 but most Russians seem to agree that this is more a pretext for enjoying summer rather bearing a deeper, political meaning. Concerts and fireworks are the order of the day, accompanied by good friends and the obligatory toasts. Government awards are also given out on this day as Russians celebrate what it means to be Russian. June - July 2015

Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Home to over 12 million people, Moscow has a public transportation that has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!

Aeroexpress Trains All international airports in Moscow have a fast train connection to the capital’s city centre. All? Yes, all! Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website where you can purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You can buy an electronic ticket from the official website www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view train timetables. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

6 Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving by plane Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.

Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and whether you are coming from east or west, north or south, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night. Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www. kazanskiy.railclient.ru. Kievsky Station Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru. Kursky Station For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www. kursky-vokzal.ru. Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www. leningradskiy.railclient.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around Paveletsky Station For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy. railclient.ru. Rizhsky Station Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru. Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 50Rbl. On the more modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages, however, it is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so if you aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 50Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!

Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.

Buying train tickets Buying train tickets at the station For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you don’t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable. Don’t forget they also require your passport to sell you a ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and reservation belongs to you). Buying train tickets online Using the website of the Russian railways eng.rzd.ru comes in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking through online retailers such as www.poezda.net, www. tutu.ru, www.trainsrussia.com and www.poezdmegapolis.ru but you might need a login and a password.

Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets June - July 2015

City Basics Be on guard! Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

In June and July Moscow hits its stride with balmy temperatures ranging from the mid 20s to the low 30s. Hay fever suffers may struggle with the dusty air and high pollen count which the summer weather brings with it. Sudden storms and temperature drops at night mean that it’s best to be prepared - think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan. And of course don’t forget your sunglasses.

Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8 Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Post Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Language useful phrases Basic phrases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Help! I need some help I don't want

Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts! Bolno! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko? What time is it? Katory chas? Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль

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pocket dictionary: Kvas Kvas – the taste of Russian summer. Once the hot months arrive you’ll notice big yellow barrels full of this fermented rye bread soft drink appear on the streets – yes, a drink made from bread! Bit like a non-alcoholic ale, it’s an acquired taste to say the least… Marketed as an authentic Slavic alternative to cola, this ancient, traditionally homemade drink is now sold in supermarkets across the land under brand names such as ‘Klassik’ and ‘Nikola’ (not cola, gettit?). Kvas can also sometimes find its way into your food too - okroshka is a cold soup consisting of raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs and lots of kvas. Those crazy Russian chefs!

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

June - July 2015

Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.

concert halls and clubs Crocus City Hall QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru. Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru. Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. RAY JUST Arena QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru. SK Olimpisky QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.

theatres Bolshoi Theatre QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru. electroTheater stanislavsky QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru. Helikon-Opera QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Maly Theatre QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK Mayakovsky Theatre QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. Moscow English Theatre Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details. Natalia Sats children’s Music Theatre QPr. Vernadskogo 5, MUniversitet, tel. (+7) 495 930 70 21, (+7) 965 302 27 80, www.teatr-sats.ru. 10 Moscow In Your Pocket

Sovremennik Theatre QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru. Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru. Taganka Theatre QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.

june and july events 05.06 Friday 10:00 5’nizza Ten years later, the masterminds behind one of Russia’s most iconic duos of the 2000’s decided to get back together for two shows in Moscow (June 5th) and St. Petersburg (June 6th). With nothing but their voices and a guitar, Andrey “Sana” Zaporozhets and Sergei Babkin saw their formation’s popularity spread like wildfire thanks to their fans’ loyalty and word-of-mouth. During the recording of 5’nizza’s 3rd studio album Sana and Babkin went their separate artistic ways. But 5’nizza’s absence was sorely missed. After all, each fan has their own special connection to their lyrics, which touch upon the heaviest topics and deepest emotions. So it’s time to rejoice and see this joyous reunion with your own eyes and feel it with your heart.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www. stadium-live.ru. Tickets 3,000 - 15,000Rbl. 05.06 Friday 10:00 Blind Guardian Ladies and gentlemen, please stand and get your tickets - the legends are coming back to town! Blind Guardian, straight from Germany, are coming back to town after a 4 year break. Kings of symphonic power metal, they have managed to create a whole world in which you’re immersed into a medieval world with undertones of Tolkien’s phantasy lands.They deserve massive respect not only for their mix of powerful speed metal and light melodies, contrast of aggression and true beauty but also for their determination to stay true to themselves and their genre, without the typical rock star scandals and catchy self-advertising. QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.blind-guardian.com. Tickets 2,400 - 8,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 12.06 Friday 10:00 Children of Bodom Are you ready to get your moshing shoes out and head bang like you’re 15 again? Then Ray Just Arena on June 12th is the place to be because the strapping Finnish legends from Children of Bodom are coming back to town! The ability to combine melody, extreme brutality and drive has won them a loyal fan following on both sides of the pond as well as several gold and platinum albums. What makes this show so special and unlike any of the others? This time around, Russian fans get to vote for the songs they want to hear live!QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.cobhc.com. Tickets 3,200 - 8,000Rbl. 28.06 Sunday 10:00 Papa Roach To Russia, with love. And rock. Papa Roach, one of everyone’s favorite first rock bands, which needs little introduction, is coming back to the Motherland to present their new album F.E.A.R. (Face Everything and Rise). Papa Roach came into being during a very interesting time music-wise, when NuMetal met Rapcore. Over the years the band’s initial fans grew and matured and the band did so with them, turning their sound more towards alternative metal. This tour is not only a presentation of their new album, but a retrospective of their more than 20 year long career throughout which the boys brought their energetic and dynamic live shows to perfection.QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www. paparoach.com. Tickets 2,300 - 4,500Rbl. 29.06 Monday 11:00 Rise against Party like it’s 1999 with Rise Against on June 29th in Ray Just Arena. Formed back in 1999 in Chicago by friends Tim McIlrath and Joe Principe, Rise Against is not your average punk rock band: it’s a rare blend of aggressive yet melodic punk and brutal hardcore with lyrics laden with deep, thoughtprovoking meaning.The boys like to keep busy - this year saw the release of their 7th studio with a grim title “The www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Black Market”. And what better reason to hit the road and yet again, together with their fans, rise against all kinds of social injustices while having fun?QRay just arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.riseagainst.com. Tickets 2,200 - 10,000Rbl. 15.07 Wednesday 10:00 Kasabian Back to Moscow again only after one year, we needn’t further proof that Russia loves Kasabian and Kasabian loves Russia. If last year’s performance at “Subbotnik” festival is anything to go by, this British band’s show is not going to nothing short of grandiose, epic and mind-blowing undeniable proof that rock ‘n’ roll is alive and kicking. Kasabian is worth seeing this summer because they’re one of those few rock bands that never stop developing and surprising. Their last album is a true ode to the genre that takes in and gives back the finest traditions of rock music throughout the decades.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www. stadium-live.ru. Tickets 3,000 - 1,200Rbl.

19.07 Sunday 10:00 Yann Tiersen A French genius beloved by Russians, whose musical career has spanned almost 20 years, Yann Tiersen’s style is so cinematographic that people often mistake him for a sound track composer. And this confusion is easily understood, after all his earlier tracks feature on the cult classic “Amelie” soundtrack! And the multi-instrumentalist composer is on his way back to Moscow to bring the local crowd a delightfully unique mix of classical minimalism, post-rock, folktronica and indie rock. Monsieur Tiersen will be, in part, presenting his latest album “Infinity” which means that this time around his show will be more vocaland guitar-heavy.QYotaspace (Glavclub), ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.yanntiersen.bzh. Tickets 2,000 - 5,000Rbl.

June - July 2015

Culture & Events summer festivals Hoorah, festival season is upon us! Everyone’s happy that summer is finally here in Moscow! But now this is especially true for music lovers of all musical persuasions. Why? Well, in recent years the European festival culture has finally caught up in Moscow. A testament to that is last year’s summer, which saw titans such as The Prodigy, Placebo, Marilyn Manson, Jamiroquai, Enter Shikari, MGMT, Bombay Bicycle Club, Lykke Li, Metronomy and Miles Kane just to name a few. This year, with the economy not at its best, some of last year’s festivals will either not be taking place or will be held on a smaller scale. But we’re all optimists who see the glass half full because this means you don’t need to make any difficult decisions and can go to all of them! So, sunglasses? Check. Sunscreen? Check. Comfortable footwear? Check. Friends? Check. Good vibes? Check. Alright, lets see what this summer has got in store! 12.06 Friday Sensation White After being hosted so generously by St. Petersburg for 7 straight years, the world’s most famous electronic music festival is coming to Russia’s capital city! Moscow will host a white fairytale world with a focus on a journey of emotional discovery. This year’s show features some of the best global DJ’s, taking the night to the next level with their driving bass lines, enchanting melodies and highly charged drops. Join the ride of a life time and let the following DJ’s be your guide. The best way to kick off a wild night has a name, and it’s Mr White. Sensation’s resident superstar DJ has been rocking dance floors all over the globe for years and has come to embody the highenergy dance experience that is Sensation. Then Mark Knight - a rare and wonderful breed of integral house heavyweight - is set to take to the decks. Also on the bill this year is DJ Feel (the leader of Russian dance club music), Fedde le Grand (a veteran Sensation super DJ that is known to bring the crowd what it wants), Chuckie (one of the industry’s true pioneers, who created a sound ahead of the time blending elements of hip hop and House music) and Bourgeous (a newcomer who’s quickly making waves in the scene as a music producer and DJ).QC-1, SK Olimpisky (SKO), Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Tickets 4,500 - 100,000Rbl. 19.06 Friday 17:00 Park Live Tailored more to the rock and metal crowd, this festival hit the scene with a bang back in 2013. In its first two years acts such as Limp Bizkit, Poets of the Fall, NOFX, Justice, Ladytron, Pendulum, DJ Fresh, The Prodigy, Marilyn Manson and Deftones tore the roof off. Well not exactly roof because it always took place under the open sky at the All-Russia 12 Moscow In Your Pocket

Exhibition Center, an architectural masterpiece with fountains, amusement park rides and the huge space rocket “Vostok” in the center of it all. The venue and format will be a little different this year but certainly no less rocking. Park Live decided to spread its wings and take the show to the new Otkrytie Arena where British rock legends Muse will play a headlining show. Fellow rockers from the American band Incubus are also on the bill for the 19th. Unlike last year, there will be an official after party on the following day in Moscow’s gorgeous and lush Gorky Park. As if that’s not exciting enough, one of Norway’s finest outfits will make you move and groove like no other. So don’t miss the chance to let yourself go and have a truly fantastic time to some truly fantastic bands in the peak heat of Moscow’s summer.QOtkrytie Arena, Volokolamskoye Shosse 69, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 37, www. parklive.pro. Tickets 2,500 - 6,000Rbl. 20.06 Saturday - 21.06 Sunday Usadba Jazz The largest outdoor jazz funk, world music, acid-jazz, lounge, jazz-rock and blues festival in Russia today is Usad’ba Jazz, which welcomes more than 40,000 visitors eager to soak in the performances of the best local and international artists. Although musical performances are a key ingredient, many people are attracted to this festival thanks to its rich cultural and leisure program with activities ranging from volleyball to board games and, of course, the huge beautiful park with its breath-taking architecture and surrounding nature, clean air and the relaxing summer vibe. Over the years, the festival has proudly hosted names such as Marcus Miller, Avishai Cohen Trio, Branford Marsalis Quartet, Charlie Hunter Trio, The Brand New Heavies, Yusef Lateef & Belmondo Quintet - and this is just a tiny fraction of the virtuosos hailing from all parts of the world! Ever since its debut in 2004, the beauty and splendor of the Arkhangelskoe Estate, a true masterpiece of Russian architecture of the 18th century, played venue to the festival. This year the venue will be changing to the no less impressive or atmospheric Tsaritsyno Estate closer to the city center. Spread over 6 stages, local artists as well world famous names will deliver performances across a wide range of genres, from pop rock to mainstream jazz to ethnic music to electronica. Don’t sweat it if you’re not in Moscow to catch Usad’ba Jazz - there are show dates for Voronezh (July 4th), Ekaterinburg (July 25th) and St. Petersburg (July 11th). Or just use it as a great excuse to do some traveling around Russia!QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www. usadba-jazz.ru. Tickets 2,500 - 7,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 26.06 Friday - 28.06 Sunday Dikaya Myata (Wild Mint) Wild Mint is the largest world music festival in Russia. Ever since 2008 it was held in the cultural ethnographic complex Etnomir but this year it’s moving to a little village called Bunyrevo in Tula Region (about 150km from Moscow). Over the years it has attracted the most salient artists from all corners of the world: Balkan rollicking tunes and Celtic rhythms, lingering Russian melodies and laconic afrobeat, noble ethno-jazz and sunny ragga, Georgian polyphony and Portuguese tunes, the songs of independent Spanish pop music and fancy FinnoUgric lamentation songs. This year you can expect to see Akvarium, Nino Katamdze, Zdob si Zdub, Pirre Edel, Sun Tailor, N.O.H.A. and many other Russian and foreign artists. The vibrant musical program and a rich cultural/entertainment come together to provide visitors with a truly unforgettable trip around our breathtaking planet - all within a short train ride from Moscow! QBunyrevo, Tulskaya Oblast, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.mintmusic.ru. Tickets 2,500Rbl and children 1,250Rbl. Getting there: By train from Moscow Kursky Railway station (metro Kurskaya) to Tarusskaya railway station (1,37hour). From Tarusskaya railway station further by festival buses. 25.07 Saturday 12:00 Picnic Afisha Held every year since 2004, Picnic Afisha has turned into “a little city within a big city”. Last year, almost 54,000 people attended this mecca for a second to none program of music and arts, leisure and lifestyle activities, including a designers market and a gastronomic area, special lectures and workshops, cinema and crafts and a full spectrum of amusements and sports. Attendees gather in the scenic area of Kolomenskoe (a former royal estate, which now is a historical, architectural and nature reserve museum) to enjoy the engaging and versatile surroundings for different audiences, either for individuals or families. So what can we expect this year musicwise? Well, boys and girls, get ready to put on your fanciest dancing shoes because Britain’s kings of electronica from Hot Chip, together with Russia’s queen of rock Zemfira are guaranteed to make you jump around all day! And that’s only the cherry on top of the icing. The ever-changing and ever-evolving British band The Horrors, Russia’s veteran romantic rocker Naik Borzov, Ivan Dorn (Russia’s answer to Pharell Williams) and one of the coolest Russian indie bands “SBPCh” are also on the bill for this year’s edition.QKolomenskoe Museum Estate, Pr. Andropova 39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.picnic.afisha.ru. Tickets 2,200Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Electrotheater Stanislavsky The new and improved Stanislavsky Theater, which opened its doors on Moscow’s central Tverskaya Street at the start of the year, now goes by the name “Electrotheater”. It is simply homage to one of the Photo by Andrey Bezukladnikov first pre-revolutionary Russian movie theaters “Electrotheater Ars” that occupied the same building in 1915. The best traditions of a fashionable movie theater, a dramatic opera studio and the influence of the famous Russian director Konstantin Stanislavsky – all these factors intertwine to make this theater truly unique in the capital’s cultural scene. The theater’s current art director Boris Yukhananov is also determined to combine truly avantgarde traditions with classical Russian theater art. Despite this drive for innovation and transformation, Electrotheater Stanislavksy carefully sticks to the traditions of Russia’s dramatic theater. Here is a brief breakdown of what guests can expect to enjoy this summer. The Drillalians, director Boris Yukhananov The main premiere of the summer is the opera series “The Drillalians” (with English subtitles) which will be presented over 5 evenings! This one is not to be missed as it will beautifully introduce the theater’s new direction and the art directors vision for the future of this cultural establishment. June 8, 9, 15, 16, 22, 23, 29, 30; July 6, 7. Blue Bird, director Boris Yukhananov Spread over 3 evenings, this moving trilogy has barely any singing but plenty of speech. The theater’s and indeed the entire country’s history will be portrayed in a Broadway-like manner but with the same depth of multi-volume philosophical fairytale for adults. July 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31. The Human Use of Human Beings, director Romeo Castellucci Romeo Castellucci’s short play based on Giotto’s fresco “The Resurrection of Lazarus” employs the language of Generallissimo and symbols that will keep viewers on the edge of their seats. Watch a giant wheel move around the theater, followed by a smell of ammonia and the singing of Alexey Tegin, the start of post-perestroika’s underground. July 18, 19, 20. The Bacchae, director Theodoros Tersopulos A theatrical masterpiece by Theodoros Terzopoulos, “The Bacchae” tells the ancient myth about a ruler who decided to equate himself to God and ended up being torn apart by bacchae in the mountains. July 11, 12, 13. QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru. Tickets 300 3,000Rbl. See the full schedule online. June - July 2015

Culture & Events kostroma show

through 28.06 Sunday Metro and War

Bored of Russian history museums with lots of dry non-compelling texts? Looking for history that would be fun and accessible to the whole family? If yes, make sure to check out the National Show of Russia “Kostroma”! For more than 10 years this spectacle has been transcending space and time to show viewers the vastness of this incredible multi-cultural country. Through brilliant stage performances we are shown the beginning of Christianity in Russia, the Tsarist epoch and pre-revolutionary Russia, the flight of the first man into space and the famous Russian ballet. A variety of landscapes are covered, ranging from the Caucaus mountains to Asian steppes, the Northern Ocean to the Black Sea, the beautiful Volga river to the mighty Yenisei. As the scenery changes, so do the people along with their traditions and culture. QBKZ “Kosmos”, pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, www.nationalrussianshow.ru. The show takes place every day from the 17th of June until the 15th of September (except Thursdays).

Did you know that the Moscow Metro played a very important role in the city’s life during the years of the Great Patriotic War? A new exhibition at the Moscow’s All-Russian Decorative Art Museum titled “Metro and War” is a new multimedia project that aims to show that the metro was more than just a means of transportation during the toughest years of Soviet history - it was the place of struggle, war and, ultimately, victory. Unique photo and video material borrowed from the State Archive of the Russian Federation, the National Library of Russia and other reputable establishments will take you on a journey that begins on June 22, 1941 and continues for nearly four long years under heavy bombardment, rations, losses, invasions and finishes triumphantly on May 9, 1945 .QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Children till 7 years old entrance free.

Exhibitions 01.06 monday - 28.06 sunday Children of the World Depict War. But is it War they Dream about…? Children see the world and the things that happen around us through a different perspective. And while no child should ever witness war, unfortunately, it has happened all too often throughout history. Moscow’s All-Russian Decorative Art Museum presents a special exhibition in honor of the 70th anniversary of the victory in World War II and Children’s Day on June 1 with an exhibition called “Children of the World Depict War. But is it War they Dream about…?”. It brings together more than 100 graphic works created by children from Russia, Spain, China, Germany, the USA, the UK, France and Japan in the 1930s and 1940s. The sheer geographic scope of such a project has no equals and allows visitors to see the scale of the humanitarian tragedy of WW2 through the eyes of children.QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Children till 7 years old entrance free. 14 Moscow In Your Pocket

through 19.07 Sunday Georgy Yakulov If you’re in town between April 22 and July 19 there’s an extra reason to visit the State Tretyakov Gallery: the works of one of the most original and colorful artists of the 20th century, “an artist and an intellectual”, “the last Mohican of bohemian life” - Georgy Bogdanovich Yakulov (1884-1928). An ethnic Armenian who was born and raised in Tiflis (now Tbilisi), formed his artistic identity in Moscow and had close ties to the Parisian art scene, Yakulov ambitiously strived to combine the best of Eastern and Western traditions in his works. Color was especially dear to him: his theory of “multicolored suns” aimed to explain the connection between nature and culture. Visitors have the pleasure of seeing more than 130 of his works and rediscover the contribution this avant-gardist made to the world of art.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

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Culture & Events through 19.07 Sunday Robert Capa Together with the Hungarian National Museum and the Hungarian Cultural Center, MAMM celebrates the year of Hungary in Russia by presenting a retrospective of the celebrated Hungarian war photographer and photo journalist Robert Capa. The exhibition includes 120 works, shot in 5 different military conflicts from Spain to Indochina, as well as from his time spent in the USSR in 1947 together with John Steinbeck. The latter works were subsequently included in their book “The Russian Journal”, which, ironically, was never translated into Russian.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. through 23.08 Sunday Around Munkachi As part of the Year of Hungary in Russia, the Pushkin Museum has carefully put together an exhibition titled “Around Munkachi”, dedicated to the life and work of the famous Hungarian painter Mikhai Munkachi (1844-1900). More than 50 of his works have been brought over from the Hungarian National Gallery and the collection of Imre Pakh and are complemented by the Pushkin Museum’s and Tretyakov Gallery’s selected works by Russian and European masters of the XIX century. The exhibition is spread across 6 halls and brings the viewer closer to the various creative directions Munkachi went down during his artistic career and juxtaposes it with the European and Russian schools of art of the second half of the XIX century. There is also a special educational and concert program to go with the exhibition.QC-3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 550Rbl. through 06.09 Sunday Soviet Photography “Soviet Photography” was the country’s largest and most respected magazine specializing in the art of photography. During its existence from 1926 until 1997, all of our vast country’s titans of photography featured on its pages and despite strict Soviet censorship, it still got to enjoy a degree of freedom to become the primary platform for discussion about photography among leading professionals and critics. The exhibition invites the viewer to engage with Soviet photography across several decades (1920s-1990s) and be immersed in the world of aesthetical and thematic variety that appeared on the pages of the magazine during this period.QC-4, The Lumier Brothers Center for Photography, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 430Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

arkhangelskoe through 01.06.2016 Wednesday In a carriage and horseback Wondering what activity would be perfect for the whole family this May? You don’t need to look much further than just outside the MKAD (Moscow’s outer ring road) for some good old educational outdoors fun! Head on down to the 18th-century estate, sometimes also referred to as Russia’s Versailles, on May 16th for the yearly grand re-opening of the complex that will be marked by the exhibition “In a carriage and horseback” dedicated to royal horse-drawn carriages that belonged to the respected Yusupov family. The two carriages that will be presented have been fully restored and are ready to amaze history lovers and those just looking for something different. One of the carriages was made in Germany in the 1720s and the other belonged to empress Catherine II. To fully immerse you in the fascinating world of Russia’s royalty and elite, the exhibition will be accompanied by a fascinating demonstration of rarities like harnesses and other equestrian objects. through 01.05.2016 Sunday French Art at Arkhangelskoe Visitors are invited to marvel at the “French Art at Arkhangelskoe” exhibition. The name is quite self-explanatory but here’s a bit more as to what you can expect to find. This exhibition is the fruit of the collaboration of three Moscow museums: apart from pieces from Arkhangelskoe’s collection (one of the country’s best collections of late XVII and early XIX century French art), five pieces from the Pushkin museums and several items from the Ostankino estate museum were contributed to the exhibition.The Arkhangelskoye collection, acquired mostly by Prince Yusupov in the late XVII - early XIX century, boasts some impressive French landscapes including those by Claude Joseph Vernet and Pierre Jacques Volaire. Other masters you will be able to marvel at include Charles Alphonse du Fresnoy, Francois Boucher and Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun. QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 21:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museum open Wed - Fri 10:30 - 17:00, Sat and Sun and holidays 10:30 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 50 - 150Rbl, exhibition 100 - 350Rbl, all inclusive ticket 500Rbl. June - July 2015

Culture & Events

POKROVKA & ZAMOSKVORECHYE There’s no better time than summer to discover Russia’s beautiful capital by foot and there are no better areas than Pokrovka and Zamoskvorechye to soak in all the history, culture and beauty that Moscow is so famous for! Here’s what there is to see, do and taste in these two places. 16 Moscow In Your Pocket

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Features Walking tour Pokrovka Basmanny district is one of Moscow’s most beautiful and historically significant areas, closely associated with Peter I of Russia, Matvey Kazakov and Alexander Pushkin. It extends northeast from Kitay-gorod, within the radial boundaries of Yauza River, contains historical areas of Khitrovka, Clean Ponds, Red Gates, the German Quarter and Basmannaya Sloboda and boasts memorial buildings of Petrine Baroque, Neoclassicism and Art Nouveau periods. It is indeed a glimpse into the Moscow of days past and no street better represents the history, culture and life of then and now than Pokrovka Street. It is mentioned in Griboedov’s “Woe from Wit”, Alexey Tolstoy’s “Peter the First” and its perfect embodiment of historical Moscow made it extremely popular among Russia’s cinematographers. For example, a famous Soviet cult classic comedy film “The Pokrovsky Gate” (directed by Mikhail Kozakov) is set in the area around Pokrovsky Gate, which is a square situated roughly midway down Pokrovka. Lets begin with a little background of the origins of Pokrovka. This street got its name from the Church of the Intercession first mentioned all the way back in 1488. In 1778 the church was demolished but Pokrovka remained. As with anything that bore any kind of religious connotation, the Soviets renamed Pokrovka to something more socialist sounding. The new name - Chernyshevskogo Street - was an homage to Nikolay Chernyshevsky, a Russian democrat and utopian socialist who was widely regarded as the chief inspiration for Russia’s revolutionary movement in the 19th century. To immortalize his actions and deeds, a statue was erected in his honor in 1988 and remains on Pokrovka 16 until this day. And as with many central streets that were renamed by the Soviets, Pokrovka got its original name back after the fall of the USSR and, ironically, embraced capitalism as luxurious hotels and apartments, modern business centers and posh restaurants started popping up. That is not to say that Pokrovka has lost its classic Moscow feel. For example house number 1/13/6 is a residential house designed in 1871, which is now a cultural heritage site. Several beautiful churches, cathedrals and other religious places line the street making it a highly important area in Moscow for spirituality and Russian Orthodox Christianity. Mansions that belonged to Moscow’s merchants of the 19th century are beautiful site to behold, especially now that many of them have undergone much-needed reconstruction. One of these mansions (house number 22/1)

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was even frequented by Alexander Pushkin and Olga Pushkina for dance lessons. House number 38A was the main city residence of nobles families like the Shuvalovs and later Golitsyns (duchess Natalia Petrovna Golitsyna was the inspiration for Pushkin’s “Queen of Spades”) and is one of the most significant buildings in Moscow embodying the period of early classicism. Apart from soaking in history, Pokrovka is a street wellknown for culture, art and entertainment. For example, at the very end of the street (house number 47/24) you will find 35mm, Moscow’s premiere cinema for foreign language movies, art house films and festivals. Children and adults alike would certainly enjoy a trip to the Museum of

Unique Dolls (house 13/2), where the art of doll making in Russia, Germany and England over the last two centuries receives special attention: glass cabinets are packed with more than 6,000 wax, plastic and cloth figures as well as English doll houses. No one can ever go hungry or thirsty here, either. If you’re looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings, go to Dacha na Pokrovke (house 18/15), a café/restaurant spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion with its collection of Soviet and preSoviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. For a quick tasty breakfast pastry or lunchtime snack, pop into Bulka (house 19) where everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. To sink your teeth into contemporary Georgian goodness in contemporary surroundings – and at very reasonable prices – Saperavi would be our pick on Pokrovka (house 5). The menu does hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri - add in thirst-quenching homemade lemonades and reasonably priced wines and you are on to a winner! Nearby, you can also find Dolma (house 16) in case you want a broader selection of various Caucasian cuisines. It doesn’t have the fake foliage and costumed waiters so typical of Caucasian restaurants until recently, but rather the laidback comfort of a stylish armchair and an exposed brick urban vibe. June - July 2015

Features The best beer spot on Pokrovka would have to be Pilsner (house 15/16) Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Although situated on a main road, once inside a friendly traditional pub atmosphere will make you think you’re in Prague, and the menu’s reasonable prices allow you to sample a wide array of Czech cuisine. Partying is another thing that Pokrovka is absolutely suitable for. Krizis Zhanra (house 16/16 bld. 1) is a longtime favorite that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22:00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location.

Another noteworthy place that you won’t find anywhere else in town is Tsiferblat, café turned common room. It works on a unique concept whereby you pay for the time you spend here and everything else (provided they have it) is complimentary. When you arrive you select a clock and your name and time is written on a board, when you leave you pay for each minute you stayed - 3Rbl per minute for the 1st hour, and 2Rbl per minute after that. You can help yourself to tea, coffee and biscuits from their little kitchen and you are welcome to bring in your own sandwiches etc too. Dozens of board games, chess and backgammon sets are available and there’s also free wi-fi and large tables for working or studying. Warning: no alcohol. If your budget permits and you’d like to make Pokrovka your temporary home while on holiday or business in Moscow, the Mamaison All-Suites Spa boutique design hotel (house 40/2) is a fantastic option. The cigar lounge and the restaurant are stellar, created from the excitable minds of Russia’s best designers. An abundance of French furniture turns the hotel into a gallery. The Mamaison Pokrovka has only suites and apartments (no standard rooms) and all are filled with hip 1930s and 1950s design features and modern kitchenettes. The small foreign literature library suffices, should you get bored with the state-of-the-art televisions, wireless Internet and luxury spa complex with hydromassage pool. Obviously, there are plenty more cafes, restaurants, bars and places of interest on Pokrovka that suit absolutely all tastes and interests but we would have to fill this entire issue with their descriptions so it would be if you went to discover this fascinating, historically significant part of Moscow for yourself! 18 Moscow In Your Pocket

ZAMOSKVORECHYE Zamoskvorechye, a neighbourhood in the centre of Moscow, spans multiple centuries: here one may be just as likely to find 18th century wooden structures fighting for real estate on the same street as a glittering 21st century business centre or hotel. The contrast is undoubtedly one of this district’s charms, as is the collection of churches and museums, without the tourist hordes one could find across the river. Indeed, the name of the neighbourhood means ‘across the river,’ literally, on the right or southern bank from the Kremlin. This area was first settled in the 14th century. In its early days the district was the home to various communities, enclaves, and professional quarters. Ul. Bolshaya Ordynka is a testament to this neighbourhood’s Tatar past as “Orda” refers to the Golden Horde. Royal garden attendants and mint workers, tanners, soldiers of the streltsy (armed Russian guard units from the 16th-18th centuries), as well as court translators all made their homes in the area. In the time of Peter the Great, much of the court was transferred to St. Petersburg and Zamoskvorechye experienced significant depopulation, with the area being resettled by farmers and merchants. Many wealthy businessmen moved in beginning in the 18th century (they were particularly concentrated on Pyatnitskaya Ul. and Ordynka Ul.) and they made their imprint by building churches, such as the 1755 Church of the Saviour on Bolvany. The area was wracked by floods in the late 1700s and the beginning of the 1800s, and as a result, land here was among the most affordable in Moscow. After the construction of a dam in the 1830s the threat was reduced and industry started to settle in. After the reforms of 1861 that led to the freeing of the serfs, the area became a working class stronghold. The largest collection of Russian art in the world and Moscow’s most popular museum is located in Zamoskvorechye. Founded by merchant Pavel Tretyakov in the 1850s, today approximately one million visitors walk through the doors of the Tretyakov Gallery annually. Containing more than 130,000 works the gallery is located on Lavrushinsky Pereulok adjacent to the Church of St. Nicholas in Tolmachi. A separate exhibit on Russian art of the 20th century is located in a different building on ul. Krymsky Val. One particular building of interest in Zamoskvorechye is The House on the Embankment, an enormous apartment building in downtown that faces Bersenevskaya Embankment on one side and ul. Serafimovicha on the other. It was built from 1927 - 1931 as a residence for the Soviet elite. Writer Yuri Trifonov, who lived in the building from 1931 - 1939, wrote an eponymous novel that details the lives of the residents in the complex in the 1930s, many of whom were killed during Stalin’s purges. During Soviet times it was notable for having separate telephone connections, a laundry, and a club for residents. The building currently has 505 apartments and offices, a theatre, a cinema, restaurants, and stores. Shortly after the Revolution the Bolsheviks closed and looted many of Zamoskvorechye’s churches, although 17 managed to survive the wrecking ball. The socialist love of concrete finally came to the neighbourhood and highrise blocks have started appearing in the last two decades. moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Forest Museum 11 36 TETERIN SKY PER. about one of Russia’s greatest as2 An atmospheric museum 14 sets and passions.VERForests have been at the heart of the Rus KH 1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER. NY 18 10 people since beforeAYAanyone had 9considered building the 10 RA DI SH 15 4 Kremlin and to this day remain vast and unexplored CHthey . . EV PER PER Y Y . S K L K S 10 3 AU OVS IAT YA SIN to quite an extent. Part of KAthe museumZH1Eis RUN SAR UL NIT concerned with MIS . 13 KO SOL 8 3 DRA this last point and the worry that AN actual 7fact the forests Xin E L 4 A R. 14 10 Y PE 3 ESK KLIMENTOVSKY PER. might not be as permanent as we would like. Other disICH . ELN PER KOT T 16 OVSKY 9 5-Y 9 RK NSK plays include miniature models of AGAtraditional wooden OZE AYA R. UL. 8 E P Y VSK buildings, some slightly baffled-looking stuffed forest wildCHE 24 MA 9 L O YT TAR PER. S life and plenty on forest science, accompanied by a sooth6 ing soundtrack of birdsong and trickling brooks. Effort has 8 5 4 obviously gone into the appearance of the place and it’s . R E YP quite an attractive museum. Q5-y Monetchikovsky per. 4, VSK 15 KO . R A E Y P HN SKY VIS TAR 12 MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 959 15 17,ZDEmuseum.forest. VA . TA 23 BOL BOLSHOY VO KRASNOKHOLMSKY 10 ru. Open Wed - Thu 11:00 - 19:00, Fri -UL. GSun 10:00 - 17:00. MOST 1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER. 13 Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 40 - 60Rbl. 25 PER. SKY

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12 NI ZH Church of the Resurrection in Kadashi BOL. NA YA KOMSOMOLSKAYA PL. -Y V TROITSKAYA UL. KR OLK 5 Once the tallest building in Zamoskvorechye, this church is in ONSKY PER. AS NO D 2 OK 7 SE UC 9 LS need of quite a bit of17 restoration, but then again the last fewHAEV 13 YA UL. KA MOTECHNA SADOVO-SA YA 10 PE UL MAL. SU 3 R SKO 1 . . KHARa centuries have been a bit of bumpy ride.3 Since its construc24 EVSK RN 8 12 AYA PL. YA ZH KAZANSKY VOKZAL 12 tion in 1687 in the Moscow Baroque style, it has beenBrobbed,NY PER. O 2 L. S NOVORYAZANSKAYA UL. vandalized, and used as a stable by Napoleonic troops, aUKHKGB ARE ARETNY PER. 4 VK SRETENSKY 10 AYA P TUPIK L. archive and a recreationalSUKHAR club for a nearby sausage factory. Its NY KARETNY PER. . PER. EVSKY PER BOL. SA DAEV PER. NY DO bell, which supposedly weighed over SELIsixVERSTO tonnes, is rumoured 18 VAYA-S 5 POSLEDNY PER. V PER. PA 15 SSK 27 AY NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL. PER. BOL. GOLOVIN to be kept in the Bolshoy Theatre andMALused 1-Y KOLOBO . GOLO for productions of AU VSKY PER VIN PE L. R. PUSHKAREV PER. PROSV Boris Godunov. Attempts in recent toV IRknock down historIN PER. PER. years LUKO BOL. SERGIEVSKY PETR PE R. OVSKY IKOV PER. CHEU replace them with a BU . KOLOKOLYN L. ical buildings surrounding the churchASHand UL LOV PER. AY SK PER. PECHATNIKOV RYBNIKO 12 NIT 1 V PER. complaints from luxury apartments5 and offices were met with AS 40 Y SRETE NSKY M BUL. ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL. 2 . . ER UL locals. The threat of being surrounded by apartment blocks still LOBODA 20 YP 16 YA SK R. S NA 32 OV Y PE YA AN VSK NA 15 ASM looms, but inside, the church’ s icons and friezes are as quiet as OD NYE B 3 ARITO 24 OR 1 B A G 4 RAKHM G OB 11 USER. O AY . KH BOL. KIS RO 15 R. AR O ELNY ever P YA BOL Y PER. history 4 VP PER. if none ANofOVSKthis had happened. QC-4, 2-y KadaST 14 RO K TN PE HOVSKY PER. 8 ER. IKO NY 12 AN V MUSEUMS 11 3 RM 213 19, PER shevsky per. 7, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 FU . . 3 UL 2 CH VARSONO A FYEVSKY IST OV PER. - 20:00. 2 www.kadashi.ru. Open 08:00 Ostrovsky Museum OP HK ER. 6 VP AS RU L. 8 KA 3 M IKO DN ZAK AU 4 SHN OV Y BSome have called him VKthe ‘Russian Shakespeare, ’ and his OLE O AU UL 3 . 19 9 R L. KR . KUZNET PE PO SKY MOS Y N T UL. St.3 Clement’s Church output and national importance are indeed comparable, L. EN 2 37 OST U L M KY KO 1 ETS VO ZN Ithis 3 Contrary to what the name might suggest is actually a writing an impressive forty-seven plays, still the bread and KU 4 KR PUSHECHNAYA 4 UL. 3 6 R. PE 5 3 6 Russian Orthodox church, one of two in the city named for8 butter of Russian 32repertoire. Yet9 Alexander Ostrovsky (1823KY S R 2 5 GE R PER. 2 ME ZENNY KA 12 4 aR. Roman pope and the main church of Zamoskvorechye. 1886) still remains overlooked abroad. This modest wooden BOL. KA PE EZD O Y 9 PR Y SK RALN IEV Nowadays TEAT the church’s five domes and two stories are 1 house is where the playwright was born and the surround4 RG UL. A O K ROV GE 4 POK 3 bright and gleaming, its baroque exterior an iconic15 pinkish ing area inspired the young Ostrovsky, who made his literary 2 KURSKIY UL. MAROSEYKA VOKZAL red. But like many other such historical buildings, it12 found debut with sketches about Zamoskvorechye merchant life. 13 BO GOby the skin of its teeth during the Soviet MANEZHNAYA ER. time, he found that making a literary P itself hanging on Like many writers of his Y YA PL. EN VL 2 M 2 AR EN VE KAZ 6of exasperating conflict and compromise SK years when authorities career was a case 4 it earmarked for demolition and TO Y P had SH 7 KY ER S 9 L. NY . OV U Pinto KHL transformation a kindergarten. After escaping that fate with the censors, who would often take years to approve a ER KA 10 O H IN K KR . IL AS 6 NA DU RAS it in a state that Vwas it was then used to store books for the Lenin State Library play, only to return hardly recognisable. ERKH YA OV NYAYA PL SKY SYRO . (R MYA 3 5 TN and only inED2008 did it return to the Orthodox Church. The If already8 well versed inPER. Ostrovsky’s works you will ICHES appreciate SQ KAYA UA 2 U RE LE ) PO church’s glittering exterior is matched by its renowned and the thorough documentation of performances of hisL.plays in OVO TS N 8 LNY PER. VORO VARVARKA UL. PODKOLOKO 4 beautifully decorated interior that contains a number of photographs. Even the uninitiated can enjoy the numerous 12 icons and an especially good example of an iconostasis. set design sketches on display. As one of Russia’s most perQD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 26, bldg. 1, MTretyakovskaya, formed playwrights, Ostrovsky’s plays have taken on many VASILYEVSKY SPUSK PL. 13 www.pcm.nichost.ru. Open 08:30 - 19:30. guises over the years and the plans for backdrops and scen5 MOSK VORE Ul. Mal. Ordynka ery are works11of art YAinNAB.themselves. QD-4, BOLSHOY 3 TSKA CHESKA YA NAB NAB. ZAMOSKVORETSKY BRYANI YA RE . SE KA LEVS MOST NAB. tel. (+7) 16 KREM 9, MTretyakovskaya, 495 951 11 40, www.gctm. VSKAYA RAU BERNIKO SH 10 2 SK B. AYA 7 AYA NA 36 NAB 5 ru. Open 12.00 - O19.00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue, SOFIYSK . NIK 30 16 6 LOY SAD 6 18 AM 11 OVN SKA last Friday of the month. Admission 200Rbl. N ICH YA 18 ESKA 13 12 UL. BOLSHOY

Features

110th anniversary of METROPOL “We’ve had important businessmen and heads of state. The presidents of France and Canada have stayed here. The leader of North Korea stayed here in 2001. We’ve also had the honor of receiving royalty. For example, the Queen of Spain, the Queen of the Netherlands, and the Duke of Luxembourg. The list is impressive.” Only a handful of hotels in Europe can boast such an impressive guest list but Moscow’s iconic Metropol Hotel, one of the Russian capital’s main attractions, can proudly do so. This year, Metropol - one of the best hotels in the world as confirmed by its famous guests, the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger, Sharon Stone, Michael Jackson and many others – is celebrating its 110th anniversary.

In its more than century-long history, the Metropol has always been at the center of events in Russia’s social and cultural life.

the hotel: Sergey Yesenin confessed his love to Isadora Duncan; Soviet leader Joseph Stalin shook Chinese leader Mao Tse Tung’s hand. In 1918, soon after the Bolshevik Revolution, Metropol was turned into the Second Home of the Soviets and housed living quarters and offices of growing Soviet bureaucracy. But this did not last very long and in the 1930’s it was converted to its original hotel function. In 1986-1991 the hotel went through a major restoration. As perfectly as it embodies Russia’s past, the Metropol also continues to play an important life in Russia’s present. Today, the building of the Metropol hotel looks like a magnificent Art Nouveau era production. Interiors preserved from the 19th century allow the hotel’s guests to better feel and understand that history, as well as the history and culture of Russia as a whole. Aside from its impressive history, the Metropol can rightfully be called a bastion of comfort and luxury with all the modern necessities for business and leisure. The hotel offers a selection of 388 rooms (including 69 suites), each with its own character: while all apartments differ in layout and design, decoration details and accessories emphasize their individuality. Carefully restored moldings, wall and ceiling paintings, gorgeous antiques from the early of the 20th century – all of these features contribute to creating a

Built in 1905 at the initiative of the famous Russian merchant Savva Mamontov, the construction process involved many the finest talents of the end of the XIX-beginning of the XX centuries in the sphere of architecture, art and sculpture. The most notable artistic contributions were made by Mikhail Vrubel (the Princess of Dreams mosaic panel) Alexander Golovin (the smaller ceramic panels) and sculptor Nikolay Andreyev (the plaster friezes). During the Silver Age, the Metropol was extremely popular among the creme de la creme of Russian cultural life. The likes of the opera singer Fyodor Shalyapin, the famous ballerina Anna Pavlova and the poet Valery Bryusov frequented the hotel during their stays in Moscow. In the Soviet times several important events took place inside 20 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Features unique atmosphere. Each room tells its own story, as well as the history of Moscow: Metropol windows offer a view of the historic center of the capital – Teatralnaya Square and Manezhnaya Square, Bolshoi Theatre, Teatralny Proezd, Lubyanskaya Square, and the legendary Kremlin towers. The unique Grand Suites of the Metropol Hotel combine the luxury of the old times with modern technological solutions, ensuring the highest level of comfort. The beautiful and spacious Grand Suites give a feeling of royal relaxation. Guests who opt for these rooms can be absolutely sure to have chosen the capital’s chic at its best. The Grand Suite consists of several rooms, separate bedrooms, comfortable hallway. The windows open on the Manezhnaya Square, Revolution Square and Teatralny Proezd. Antique furniture, ancient sculptures and paintings emphasize the grandeur of the apartments.

And finally: the hotel has only two Presidential Suites because luxury can’t be replicated. Luxury ceiling moldings, bay windows with stained glass decorations, antique furniture, walls upholstered in silk – the Presidential Suite is spectacular. The spacious living room is fitted with furniture made of precious wood with carved lions and fauns, a French mantel clock, a piano and a Venetian armchair. It features a collection of artworks from the last three centuries and each item fits so perfectly that it’s impossible to imagine it in any other surroundings. From these windows the most famous people of the 20th century looked out at the Teatralny Proezd, Tretyakovsky Proezd and Lubyanskaya Square – the almost 100sq meter Presidential Suites welcomed heads of foreign states, members of royal families, film stars, and people of art. The Presidential Suites are even equipped with saunas. One does not have to be a guest at the Metropol Hotel to enjoy this unique atmosphere and get immersed in history. The legendary hotel in the heart of Moscow is also known for the finest traditions of Russia’s cuisine enjoyed by locals and visitors alike in one of its restaurants or bars. Breakfast at the Metropol is rightfully considered most exquisite and diverse in terms of the menu served in the memorable entourage of Metropol Hall to the sounds of the harp and fountain. Caviar and salmon pancakes, exotic fruits, porridges of several kinds, natural diary products, poached eggs with smoked salmon and spinach, seasonal berries, meats and a range of cheeses, bakery and many other delights are among the treats served daily from 07:00 until 11:00. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

The historical interiors of the early 20th century with the first-class service of the Shaliapin Bar can impress even the most discerning visitors as the perfect place to enjoy a drink. The professional barmen can make a cocktail to satisfy any taste. The special and unique manner of servicing drinks in tandem with the extraordinary coupled historical interiors of the bar with its marble columns, will ceiling moldings and Art Nouveau chandeliers, will plunge you into the early 20th century atmosphere. And finally, there’s Restaurant Savva, which owes its name to the founder of Metropol Savva Mamontov, the well-known manufacturer and patron of arts. The Metropol’s reputation as the place to find “New Russian” cuisine would not have come to be without its brand-chef mastermind Andrey Shmakov. “A chef must experiment and put their knowledge to practice, perfecting their skills. Simply copying someone else’s recipe – well, that’s not interesting”, thinks Andrey Shmakov. And this is the motto he lives by, which is deliciously reflected in the Metropol’s menus. Throughout his career which has taken him around the world on a German shipping company, to various Italian and French restaurants in his native Tallinn and Michelin star establishments around Europe, Mr. Shmakov has always stayed true to this principle of experimentation. The Metropol’s new menu therefore combines the thoroughness of Scandinavia’s cuisine, the vivacity of Italy’s, the refinement of France’s and the originality of Russia. In addition, Mr. Shmakov firmly believes in using the freshest local produce and finishing off every dish with a pinch of good mood. If you like what you have tasted, Mr. Shmakov’s recipe book is available for purchase! Metropol QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru.

June - July 2015

Where to eat

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophis-

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

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22 Moscow In Your Pocket

ticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW Dacha na Pokrovke The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15 (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGSW Odessa Mama Odessa Mama offers a taste of every Russian’s idealized childhood cuisine. Drawing inspiration from the slightly raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand summer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking to the large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items that you won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus, currently Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you grew up in the USSR, this is like going back to your carefree childhood; if you didn’t it’s maybe a bit difficult to see what the fuss is about. The restaurant is run by the team behind the Khachupuri Georgian chain, which has a branch in the same building. Also at Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya). QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PAVEGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Asian and Indian Bely Zhuravl Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow is served up at this simple restaurant and the portions are huge! Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) are provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The idea here is to bring a group of friends and share things out between you as the soups, noodles and meat dishes come by the kilo. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can make it difficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean cuisine, although there are at least pictures. Buzzers on the tables also ensure dedicated service.QFrunzenskaya nab. 14, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 775 06 56, www.beliyjuravl.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAVSW Darbars Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. Also at Starosadsky per. 1 (metro Kitay Gorod).QHotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, 16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVSW Tan It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Triumphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 251 08 77, www.restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAGSW

Beer Restaurants Kozlovica Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour. QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Russian summer menu

The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get through the bitterly cold winter months, but come summer some special warm weather dishes also make their way on to the Russian menu. Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that you may find. Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July. Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is as it sounds, quite an acquired taste… The main course. Salads are universally popular year round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen (green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants usually serve up the best shashliks. June - July 2015

Where to eat Pilsner Paveletskaya Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka), Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD-5, Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www. pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW

Cafes and Bakeries Bulka Although the staff are smiling away and the interior is a fashionable minimalist leather and brown, full glass frontage affair, you may prefer just to pop in here and take something to go, given that with the ovens and glass surround it has the potential to get very stuffy. If it isn’t too hot though, by all means settle in and enjoy a fantastic range of pastries - their fruit pies are incredibly rich and tartly sweet creations and the fresh bread that goes into the sandwiches cannot be faulted. In fact everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. Also at Bol. Gruzinskaya 69 (metro Belorusskaya), Sokolniki park (metro Sokolniki) and Otrada shopping mall (Pyatnitskoe shosse, 7km from metro Mitino).QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 19, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 95 57, www.bulkabakery.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €. PASW Coffee Pyu One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn’t even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads, homemade pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in large portions for sharing as well as individual servings. Occasional live acoustic concerts add to the soothing and tranquil refuge.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9 bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www.coffeepiu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00 - 23:00. Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. €. PAGW Le Pain Quotidien This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many lo24 Moscow In Your Pocket

cations have excellent street terraces including this one just a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as they are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), Pyatnitskaya ul. 6/1, bldg. 1 (metro Novokuznetskaya) and Lesnaya ul. 5 (metro Belorusskaya).QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 90 94, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW Shtolle Stolle does pies. Traditional old school Russian pies from old recipes that are unlike any others found in the city. And they do them well. Pies with chicken and fish fillings are scrumptious, in particular the herring (selyodka) one is amazing. It’s the one shaped like a fish. They also do a range of berry filled pies and a small selection of salads and soups but the pies receive top billing. Their takeaway service is almost as popular as their sit down cafe. Also at Ul. Pokrovka 1 (metro Kitay Gorod).QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3/4, bldg. 1, 2nd floor, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 499 922 16 07, www.stolle. ru. Open 08.00 - 22:00. €. PNGSW

food from former republics

One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves). moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Caucasian Barashka You fancy eating something other than European cuisine? Try restaurant Barashka, where they serve excellent Azerbaijani food. The atmosphere is cozy, the staffs are friendly and the dishes are undoubtedly of high quality. Traditional dishes include grilled meat, fish and vegetables, and also delicious starters such as qutab; thinly rolled dough filled with either greens, pumpkin, meat or cheese. The restaurant is often busy and attracts both Russians as well as people with roots in Azerbaijan.QA-3, Novy Arbat 21, bldg. 1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 37 30, www. novikovgroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW Gayane’s An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food. Great examples of the region’s specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayane’s authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow bits and said to be the ‘food of heroes’. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark blue line) metro station.QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60, www.gayanes. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVSW Khachapuri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5 (metro Chistye Prudy) and Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVEGSW Noev Kovcheg The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. The venue was opened on the 17th of the 7th month - the day when Noah’s ark is said to have ran aground. The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGSW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2015

Where to eat

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Saperavi Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings - no plastic grape vines and water features here - instead its bright colours, stylish lighting, comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They do an excellent job of explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on offer and how best to accompany them and if your here at a weekday lunch time the bounteous meal deals are a steal. Add in thirst-quenching homemade lemonades and reasonably priced wines and you are on to a winner. They also have a restaurant on Pokrovka ul. 5, bldg. 5.QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89 93, www.saperavicafe. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVGSW

European Björn As soon as the doors of Björn were opened to the Moscow public the word spread very quickly. In the evenings this laconic, nature-inspired and utterly Scandinavian place has very few free tables. The secret to Björn’s success is, of course, the typical contemporary Scandinavian approach to gastronomy: an abundance of rich, imaginative flavors harmonic with nature without any pretentiousness. The head chef - straight from Denmark - ensures that everything guests taste is in complete accordance with the best northern cuisines have to offer. Scandinavian specialties such as venison, salmon, herring and cod taste even better with a friendly staff and a delightful northern drinks menu!QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 90 59, www.bjrn.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. PAGW Extra Virgin The simple and chic interior of this Italian-style restaurant attracts many Muscovites and expats during the day. A complimentary olive plate is served with—you guessed its - extra virgin olive oil and the olives taste as if they came straight from the tree. The friendly staff serves up delicious pizzas, pastas and risottos as well as fresh, tender fish and meat from the grill. This vibrant restaurant satisfies every occasion, whether you want to have a quick business lunch or a cosy dinner with friends.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 17, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 967 102 71 97, www. evgrill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PAGW

Call 26 Moscow In Your Pocket

Food Embassy Everything about Food Embassy screams hip. From their trendy music indoors to the Miami vibe outdoors, you’ll only find the coolest cats here. As appearances go their décor is faultless, and this is mirrored by their presentation of food, which too was perfect. Though there’s a clear moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat emphasis on quality over quantity, you won’t hear any complaints from us about that!QD-1, Prospekt Mira 26, bldg. 8, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 256 04 03, www. foodembassy.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGW Lucien Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments. QUl. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGW Molon Lave A new Greek restaurant is now serving Moscow’s discerning foodies and gourmands. The brainchild of a “Sovietproduced Greek”, Alexey Karolidis, Molon Lave serves up the most authentic tzatziki, horiatiki, moussaka and kolokithokeftedes that the capital has to offer. And it’s no wonder, after all the head chef Stamatis Tsilias was invited to Russia especially for this delicious project. Those who really know their Greek specialties will be delighted to find real, traditional retsina (white/rosé resinated wine), as well as other wines from Greece and further afar, Greek ouzo and metaxa.QA-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 39, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 272 00 47. €€. AEGSW Scandinavia An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing smiley service for almost twenty years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and calm international atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PTAGSW

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International Beer & Brut Something for the gentlemen (beer) and for the ladies (brut) - that’s the concept behind Beer & Brut. Situated in an old mansion, B&B creates a pleasant atmosphere for serious people who don’t take themselves too seriously thanks to its eclectic interior with a mural consisting of a random assortment of protruding objects. The menu boasts a refreshing price to quality ratio, with a wide range of dishes to perfectly complement both beer and wine. Beer comes in all forms commercial and craft - and the wine is divided into simple, understandable options for all budgets. The summer terrace is perfect for kicking back and relaxing!QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 26, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 965 250 26 26. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTASW

Delicatessen Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret is the real winning element. Reservations recommended. QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PAEGW Deti Raika It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty fish dishes. With live music in the weekends, ranging from jazz to lounge and even French chansons this place comes recommended.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAEW June - July 2015

Where to eat Filial If you are young or- more importantly - young at heart and looking for a memorable, atmospheric place to have dinner, then stop by at Filial. This grand café-style restaurant features a dark wood and green accented interior and is always filled with the warm chatter of Moscow’s dynamic young population. Though this place is worth a visit just for a glass of wine, you really should have lunch or dinner and try one of the revitalizing salads or the tasty noodle plates. In terms of quality, the food certainly stands out from what you get in Moscow’s mainstream restaurants. QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 3, bldg. 1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 21 43, www.filialmoscow.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAG Funny Cabany Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue parties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www.funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW Holy Fox Thanks to Holy Fox enjoying sophisticated food only a few minutes from Red Square is now a real possibility. The minimalist interiors were designed by one of the owners, an architect who oversaw the renovation of Moscow’s beloved Krymskaya Embankment. The lovely and original dishes are courtesy of the chef, who learned the secrets of his cooking in Asia, which are noticeable in almost every dish. This creative approach to food is also apparent when it comes to the drinks menu. A wide range of homemade alcoholic drinks can be tried at the bar.QD-3, Bol. Cherkassky per. 15-17, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 111 08 08, www. holyfoxcafe.com. Tue - Fri 12:00 - 16:00 and 18:00 - 24:00. Sat and Sun 14:00 - 24:00. Mon closed. €€. GW

28 Moscow In Your Pocket

Izia Grill What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the trend. It’s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking. Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions, but usually have snack-sized price tags attached. It’s sitdown street food rather than fine dining, but it works well as a neighborhood café. Also at Ul. Lva Tolstogo 16 (metro Park Kultury).QD-2, Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 623 08 48, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEGSW Ragout A smart-casual ‘city-cafe’ atmosphere is well complemented by an equally simple and well-thought out menu. Despite the relatively restricted choice, it’s still impossible to choose, but fear not, standards are high across the board. Vegetarians will also be delighted to see there are lots of exciting things for them to eat too. Breakfasts here are also great and Sunday is an excellent time to visit when they have their informal family roast Sunday lunch. Also at Olimpisky pr. 16 bldg. 5 (metro Prospekt Mira).QA-1, Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya 69 (entrance from 2-ya Brestskaya), MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 662 64 58, www. caferagout.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PSW Saxon + Parole This high-end American restaurant is an excellent replica of the one in New York. Situated in the romantic neighborhood of Patriarshy Prudy, with the possibility of sitting near an open window in the summer, and cozy indoor seating, it is the perfect place to hang out at the end of the day or to host a business lunch. The menu offers a wide range of meat and fish dishes as well as delicious starters, which are all prepared with fresh and largely local ingredients.QB-2, Spiridonevsky per. 12/9, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 903 755 03 43, www.saxonandparole.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. GSW Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and filled with all kinds of treasures.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Townhouse A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.QD-5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 03, www.mercure. com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW

White Rabbit Yes, it’s cliché to say, but finding your way up to this magical place really does feel a bit like Alice chasing that rabbit down the hole. First make sure you enter the Passage building from the right side entrance (next to the massive building site). This is the only way to find the lift. You then have to get in two separate lifts before you finally pop out at the atrium at the top with a glorious view over the city centre and its various skyscrapers. Upscale White Rabbit does serve some truly outstanding and memorable food and the kitchen is not likely to disappoint. The menu is imaginative and filled with treasures too long to list here, so just take your pick and enjoy.QA-3, Smolenskaya pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PAW

Italian Florentini City Cafe This is a great place to plop down on one of the couches after a long day spent walking in the city. The cosy-chic natural wood interior and the open kitchen with woodburning stove and fresh fish waiting to be prepared make you want to order everything on the menu. In fact all dishes are truly tasty and made from fresh ingredients, however their huge selection of thin-crust pizza is what this place is known for and why they classify themselves as an Italian restaurant.QE-2, Staraya Basmannaya ul. 9/1, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 608 03 50. Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Flotilla Radisson restaurant One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests to Moscow to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it’s already time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA-3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, www.radisson-cruise. ru. €€€. PTAESW Jamie’s Italian Mamma mia, it’s finally here! Fans of affordable, no-frills authentic Italian can now find a safe haven in Jamie’s Italian right across from Moscow’s Kremlin. Since its founding in Oxford in 2007, Jamie’s Italian has spread to over 30 cities worldwide but remained true to Jamie’s passion for the Italian way of life: “good food for everyone, no matter what”. The menu offers everything you would expect to find in a restaurant aspiring to the rustic Italian feel - food and beverage-wise - without breaking the bank!QC2, Okhotny Ryad 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 968 544 92 35, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€. PTASW Osteria della Piazza Bianca A relaxed Italian atmosphere combined with European comfort makes the Osteria della Piazza Bianca a special place in Moscow. The panoramic views and open kitchen - where Italian chefs prepare your meal right in front of you - create an inviting ambience. Choosing between the various fresh Italian dishes can be hard enough, but luckily the sommelier will be on hand in case you hesitate about the wine. Located just across from Belorusskaya metro, the Osteria is perfect for an end-of-the-working-day dinner or a stylish business lunch.QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5a, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7 495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs. €€. PAVGW Tarantino Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag. Menu specialties: grilled meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian pizzas and pastas.QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGW June - July 2015

Where to eat Seafood Gastronomica-Fish If you love fish, once you’ve stepped off chaotic Leninsky prospekt and passed through the door of cool, calming Gastronomica you will be delighted you made the effort. This is definitely one of the best fish restaurants in Moscow. On the main menu there’s things like Chilean sea bass, turbot and sole to choose from, as well as the closer to home trout and salmon, all of which can be cooked any number of ways from baked in a coal stove to steamed with wine - delicious! There’s also a good range of seafood based salads, soups, pastas and risottos - we particularly liked the sterlet consomme - as well as mouthwatering mussels to start. As it is quite some way from the metro, it may be wise to come here by car. In summer terrace is open.QLeninsky pr. 57, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 641 11 43, www.gastronomicafish.ru. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. €€€. PAVGSW Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City Ceilings covered with sale cloth that looks like it’s moving in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned with paintings of maritime settings - all this creates an “at sea” mood once you step into the newly opened Porto Maltese restaurant at Vegas Crocus City shopping mall. This is the fifth Moscow restaurant by the worldwide Mediterranean cuisine network and is a perfect place to wind down after a long day of shopping with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid out on a cushion of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick out what they want to eat. Exceptional service, an original and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine list are sure to impress even the most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs.QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66 km, 4th floor, MMyakino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www. portomaltese.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 24:00. €€. TNGW

Steak Houses Butchery Bar and Grill A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus. The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom. ru/page-butchery. 24hrs. €€. PAGW Chicago Prime Steakhouse Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t af30 Moscow In Your Pocket

ford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning combination.QC-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PAGSW GOODBEEF This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2, Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW

Vegetarian Avocado Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for décor. There is an extensive range of teas on the menu, and the food is delicious. Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently. The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but there is also guitar for those looking for something more conventional. Try not to get too annoyed with the staff who have a tendency to be a bit dippy. Also at ul. Tverskaya 5/6. QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12/2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 19, www.avocadocafe.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €. PASW Fresh This Canadian restaurant and juice bar is on a mission to prove that vegetarian dining can be filling, exciting and varied and does not necessarily need to involve stereotypical joss sticks, Indian tapestries and variations on the lentil. Interior-wise it’s as fresh as they come, all clean minimalist lines, favouring industrial materials and rough edges over cuddly pictures of ethnic tribes. On the food front Fresh gets full marks for providing an experience that both vegetarians and meat eaters can salivate over - huge wraps bursting with scrumptious goodies and noodles bowls brimming with both delicate and fiery Asian flavours are just some of the long list of hits. Also at Ermolaevsky per. 10/7 (metro Tverskaya).QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 965 278 90 89, www.freshrestaurant.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGSW

Ya vegetarianets – I am a vegetarian Bez myasa – without meat moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat Summer Terraces

Summer is finally here and what a wonderful time it is to be living it up on the city’s many summer terraces and beer gardens. In Moscow you’ve a whole range of places that you can perch up at and enjoy the sun. From May until September Moscow is filled with al fresco drinking and dining options - from the cafes lined up along Moscow’s main walking streets Stary Arbat and Kamergersky pereulok, to the open roofs and balconies of old factories and swanky high rise shopping centres and on into the secluded gardens and courtyards of the city’s back streets. Aist QB-2, Mal. Bronnaya ul. 8/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 499 940 70 40, www.aistcafe.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGW Bar Strelka QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTALEGW Dacha na Pokrovke QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15 (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGSW Domozhilov QArtPlay, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 10, bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.domogilov. ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW Food Embassy QD-1, Prospekt Mira 26, bldg. 8, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 256 04 03, www.foodembassy.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGW Gogol Club QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclub.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Khachapuri QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVEGSW Le Pain Quotidien QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 90 94, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW Odessa Mama QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa. ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PAVEGSW Osteria della Piazza Bianca QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5a, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7 495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs. €€. PAVGW Paul QA-3, Ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (entrance on Garden Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 16 38; Romanov per. 2/6, bldg. 7, MAleksandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 905 792 39 05; ul. Lesnaya 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 903 138 01 05, www.paul-russia.ru. Open 07:30 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. €. PASW Scandinavia QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW Sky Lounge QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW The Hudson Bar QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 06:00. PAEGW VICOLO (Marriott Royal Aurora) QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora. com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. €€€. PTAGW

June - July 2015

Features Where to eat The Russian beer revolution For decades Soviet Russia could only manage two sorts of beer – ‘Pivo est’ (we have beer) or ‘Pivа nеt’ (we have no beer). In a land where vodka was the tipple of choice, mastery of malt and hop was not a big priority, and while postSoviet years brought an explosion in the quantity of brews on offer the quality of most Russian-made beer was almost as painful as the resultant hangover. Happily, however, things are changing. The craft beer revolution that has swept through North America and Europe has arrived here and a clutch of small-scale breweries is popping up to produce some interesting and distinctive offerings.

A shot from the famous Soviet comedy “Kidnapping, Caucasian Style”, directed by Leonid Gaidai, 1967

What to drink The Pale Ale, derived from a British beer prepared for export to India, is perhaps the most popular offering. This light, hoppy, spicy brew comes in several forms from different breweries, including India Pale Ale, American Pale Ale and the somewhat contradictory Dark Pale Ale. Ones to look out for include Red Machine and Black Sails, both by Moscow’s Victory Arts brewery. Stouts and porters have a long pedigree in Russia, with the traditional Imperial Stout first being brewed for the royal court in St. Petersburg. It’s back on the menu in a big way today: Jaws Oatmeal Stout is a rich, tasty beer from the Ural town of Zarechny, near Yekaterinburg; Tula’s Salden’s Brewery offers an Extra Stout worth looking out for. For a slightly different taste, the Coffee Stout made by Petersburg’s Vasiliostrov Brewery is also worth checking out. Aside from the companies mentioned above, St. Petersburg’s AF Brewery (the name stands for ‘Anti-Factory) also has a burgeoning reputation.

32 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to drink it Most Moscow bars tend to offer a limited range of the usual suspects – mass market, mass produced lagers with little to distinguish them, perhaps joined by a few eye-wateringly expensive imported brews. Happily a few places have sprung up to serve more specialized beers and local craft brews that often undercut big-name imported brands. Entuziast Tucked away in the back of a courtyard behind one of Moscow’s plushest shopping streets this place is part biker café, part beer Mecca. There’s a good selection of draught brews on offer and a well-stocked fridge full of interesting bottles, plus a small selection of merchandise from the old Entuziast motorcycle brand that used to zip around the USSR. Sandwiches and bar snacks are available, and so is tea and coffee if you come on your bike.QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 7/5, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 340 78 52. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Craft Republic Over the road from the Chelsea gastropub, this underground watering hole has a no-frills vibe more suited to a ryumashka than a bar. But it also has a range of around 20 beers on tap and a huge selection of bottled beverages. The clientele is young and hipsterish, but not oppressively so, and the absence of TV screens is a rare blessing for guests who want a quiet pint and a good conversation. The only thing missing is a food menu.QС-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 9, bldg. 7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 89 84. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. PAW One more pub Next to the shiny office blocks of Belaya Ploshchad, One More Pub is a fairly regular bar that has decided to take a chance on offering a few interesting beers. The draught menu usually has a couple of local craft beers available and there’s often an interesting imported ale or two to be found as well. Best of all, on Sundays there’s a special offer, perfect for a lazy afternoon of beer and televized football.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 99 80, www. onemorepub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 03:00. PAGW Vse tvoi druzya (All your friends) This little street is the epicenter of Moscow’s craft revolution; while Craft Republic is the no-frills approach to bar management, Druzya is tucked behind a quirky gift shop and combines good beer with TV sports and weekend DJ sets. A different vibe - instead of seats, just grab a barrel and a cushion - makes for a different audience, but the commitment to unearthing interesting brews is just as strong.QC-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per 12/27, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 925 562 89 90. Open 11:00 - 06:00. AGW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife The original city that doesn’t sleep, Moscow has everything going on under those bright neon signs. Whether you’re after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee small hours, you won’t be disappointed.

live music CLUBS ArteFAQ By day it’s an ideal place for a coffee and a book, come the evening it becomes a reasonable venue for a restaurant or cocktail date and at night all kinds of live music kicks off in the basement. Colourfully decorated and with little mezzanine areas jutting out here and there it’s all a bit of a maze full of snug corners and bustling dining areas. FAQ manages to stay on the right side of bohemian cool - mismatched furniture, exposed brick walls and bookshelves put the art in the name, without falling into the over-thetop trap and the whole atmosphere is complimented by a jazz-funk soundtrack. The menu can be disappointing in terms of the price to quality ratio, but most people find the atmosphere makes up for any such disappointments. QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 32, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 39 71, www.artefaq.ru. Open 12:00 06:00. PAEW B2 Club One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEG

Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you’ll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit the spot so don’t worry about that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 08:00. PAEW

Bars Bar Strelka The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs. In the summer the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is the place to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night and is a lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their delicious nibbles.QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PTALEGW

Duma This place is not only literally underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. AEW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2015

Nightlife Darling, I’ll call you later Half way between pub and bar this curiously named drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd of friends who actually want to chat with each other. Music is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty, there are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the sport and plenty of large tables. By mixing a more upscale drinks menu with a downbeat interior and vibe it draws in both wealthier students and professionals alike.QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya -Yamskaya ul.10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 926 520 77 80, www.darlingbars.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW Kvartira 44 The main draw of this branch of the popular french style cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace, which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow, and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal. Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34, www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEW La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive,

albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most exclusive vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged leather sofas and bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated atmosphere to those sophisticated deal-breaking drinks. La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to accompany the wine.QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 88, www.labottega.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAGW MyBar This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. In summer they open their beautiful terrace.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar. ru. 12:00 until last guest. PAGW

Clubs Club Garage One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub. ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW 34 Moscow In Your Pocket

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Nightlife Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 07:00. PAW Gogol Club Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The music is bohemian European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclub.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW Icon Club The extravagant and glamorous Icon club, opened in September 2013, can accommodate 2000 over its main dance floor, separate bar and dance floor, VIP areas and a roof terrace with superb views of Moscow at dawn. Though men will have to pay to enter, it is worth it for top DJs taking their lead from the most recent trends in Ibiza, Berlin and New York.QC-4, Bolotnaya nab. 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 364 09 09, www.iconclub.ru. Open closed, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PALEGW Propaganda A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portionwise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, they’ve already notched up 11 years and still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.QD-2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENGW

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Cocktail Bars All Time Bar Dmitri Sokolov, Moscow’s new tsar of the cheap cocktail bar has opened yet another open all hours joint for those who like imaginative cocktails but hate the pretention and high prices that often come with them. Service can get a little slow when it’s busy, so try order at the bar and be prepared for the music to dramatically increase in volume after midnight.QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 08 11, www.alltimebar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW

City Space The view is heavenly. There are no other words for it when you are on the 34th floor looking out at all of Moscow beneath you. Then the waitress brings you your personally mixed cocktail. Here they know the classic cocktails from the Bloody Mary to the Martini backwards. Regular guest mixologists are constantly bringing fresh ideas to the menu, while their own favourite creations such as the incredible Trans-Siberian make great use of local flavours.QSwissotel Krasnye Holmy, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bldg. 6, 34th floor, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 53 57, www. cityspacebar.com. Open 17:00 - 03:00. PALE Dream Bar Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the after-work crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it’s time to take off the ties and let your hair down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW Time Out Bar An unassuming cocktail bar in historic surroundings, which lets the view do the talking. The menu offers different styles of cocktails for different times of day, for example champagne based ‘breakfast’ drinks or a samovar filled with one of many ice-cold tea-based cocktails for ‘5 o’clock tea’. The early evening jazz soundtrack is a nice addition as is the huge open-air terrace and original period features such as the Soviet realist mural on the ceiling.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 5/1 (Hotel Peking, 13th floor), MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 01 80, timeoutbar.ru. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PAEW June - July 2015

What to see

The Kremlin

Inside the Kremlin

The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin.

Cathedral of the Archangel Michael A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework.

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Annunciation Cathedral This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. moscow.inyourpocket.com

What to see NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad. Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin. QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad. Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

river cruises A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State University, the world’s tallest educational building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park. At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, it’s hard to believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built to house the Soviet elite. From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so beautiful ever again. QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www. radisson-cruise.ru. From Pier Ukraina and from pier Gorky Park boats leave every day starting from 13:00. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Check the full schedule and prices online. PAUKW

June - July 2015

What to see Churches and Monasteries Cathedral of Christ the Saviour This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. As it is a working place of worship women are expected to cover their heads and everyone should dress conservatively. No cameras or mobile phones should be used.QB-4, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47).

Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic fouronion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 300Rbl. 38 Moscow In Your Pocket

Novospassky Monastery Situated on the river and surrounded by gardens, the walls of this working monastery date from the 1640s. A quiet place, the brooding five-domed Cathedral of the Saviour was built in 1645 and attracts a healthy crowd of observers in the evening and has lovely frescoes. Women need to cover their heads and if wearing trousers or jeans they need to don a wrap around skirt as well.QE-5, Krestyanskaya pl.10, MKrestyanskaya Zastava, tel. (+7) 495 676 77 13, www. novospasskiymon.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Guided tours by prior arrangement.

Modern Art Centres ArtPlay Thanks to the large building on site housing the British Design School in Moscow, this former tea factory has now become a hub of artistic activity. In amongst the various converted red brick factory buildings you will find numerous design studios and shops selling bespoke interior design works, as well as large temporary exhibition spaces and small private galleries. Furthermore Artplay also has its fair share of cool places to eat and drink such as the Art Clumba cafe/ restaurant and the quirky little roof bar Volna. One of the largest roofs of the complex also has a great cafe-bar with super views over the surrounding area.QUl. Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 620 08 82, www.artplay.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free. MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow) This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf. ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. TAW moscow.inyourpocket.com

What to see Red October Chocolate Factory One of Moscow’s most beloved manufacturers - the Red October Chocolate Factory, moved to a site further out of the city centre a few years ago and as the old building’s conversion into a luxury residential complex slowed down, the artists moved in. The current residents includes the Lumiere brothers photography centre that regularly stages great retrospectives of international and local photographers from the modern age all the way back in to the early 20th Century. The Art Strelka design college is also located here and regularly has lectures and workshops as well as concerts on their outdoor stage. On the food/drink side, this place is very happening and at the weekend the area really fills up with party animals heading to one of the factory’s many clubs.QC-4, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, MKropotkinskaya, www.redok.ru.

Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. The museum’s frequent temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out.QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Children till 7 years old free entrance. NK Cosmonautics Museum Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra).QPr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 683 79 68, www.kosmo-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 200Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Art Deco museum Art Deco is the art style that spanned the boom of the roaring 1920s and the bust of the Depression-ridden 1930s. All aspects of life were influenced by it: design, fine art, decorative arts, fashion, film, photography, transport and product design. Finally, there is a museum in Moscow dedicated to this impactful art movement. The Art Deco Museum boasts an impressive collection of more than 900 sculptures, items of furniture and decorative art pieces that will take you right back to the 1920s! The museum is not exactly centrally located but it is situated on the breath-taking Luzhnetsky Embankment - just an extremely pleasant 10-minute stroll from the Vorobyovy Gory metro station.QF-6, Luzhnetskaya nab. 2/4, bldg. 4, MVorobyovy Gory, tel. (+7) 495 639 94 84, www.artdecomuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 200Rbl. Children up to 6 years of age free of charge. PUNW

Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Thursday 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Thu of the month. Admission 200 - 250Rbl. N

June - July 2015

What to see Icons

No Russian church is complete without its icons – but what do these ancient images mean, and why are they there? The tradition came to Kievan Rus following the conversion to Christianity in 988. Little is known about the artists who painted them – with a few notable exceptions, such as the great Andrei Rublev, these were considered works to glorify God, not celebrate the talent of their makers. At a time when literacy was unusual, strong visual images played a vital role in the ritual. These painted icons, following from Byzantine tradition, were introduced as a focal point for prayer. Even today, believers continue to address prayers to specific icons, choosing an image that matches the problem they wish to share with God. That’s why, for example, icons depicting Prince Pyotr and his peasant bride Fevronia are associated with prayers concerning family life. Some of Russia’s most venerated icons have legends attached to them: they accompanied great armies into battle and are credited with inspiring victories and defending the Orthodox faith of the Russian people. The icon of the Mother of God of Vladimir is believed to have spared Moscow from invasion on no less than three occasions. The monastery on Sretenka was built on the site where, in 1395, Prince Vasily of Moscow spent the night praying over the icon after it arrived from the ancient city of Vladimir. The next day the Mongol Armies of Tamerlane retreated from the city. Learn more about Russian icons in the Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art or in the Tretatyakov Gallery.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos 40 Moscow In Your Pocket

Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center This large and engaging museum dedicated to the complex history of Russian Jewry, is thoroughly modern in approach, favouring personal testimony, archival video footage and interactive displays - all translated into Russian and English. The exhibitions are divided chronologically, helping visitors to understand the life of Jewish communities as they travelled across medieval Europe, settling in shtetls before moving to the cities. The role of Russian Jewry in public life in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries is particularly well presented as is the fate of Soviet Jews and the role of Jewish soldiers during World War II. Visitors of Russian-Jewish origins will no doubt be particularly interested in hearing about what it meant to be a ‘Soviet Jew’ and finding out how and why so many left the USSR. Those expecting to find just a stark representation of pogroms, holocaust, hardships and suffering will be pleasantly surprised to find Russian Jewish history presented as something much more complex, filled with both struggles and achievements. The museum can also be reached by taking tram no.19 from metro Novoslobodskaya.QUl. Obraztsova 11, bldg. 1А, MMarina Roscha, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, www.jewishmuseum.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 400Rbl.

State Central Museum of Contemporary History of Russia Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. N moscow.inyourpocket.com

What to see State Historical Museum

Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. The atmosphere is conducive to both wandering and musing as the museum guides are, lets say, a little less protective than usual. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s day, and a great portrait gallery to set you straight on who exactly was who in the Russian aristocracy. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 300Rbl. The small café serves basic Russian snack food, inexpensive tea and coffee and butterbrodi (Russian open sandwiches).QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl. U The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. In 1924 the museum saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The temperamental audio guides provide the only English www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

available. Watch out for long queues at the weekends when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions.QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 550Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery. ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 250 - 400Rbl. PU Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Dedicated to Russian art of the 20th Century, this is the extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it is. Stunningly presented, each work contributes to the chronological project. Head up to the fourth floor to begin with the Moscow modernists. Not only is this venue, in terms of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well presented. Everything is explained in English and as well as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video representations providing a historical and political framework to understanding the pieces. Most impressive is the video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a full screen window from where you can see the site today. A visit here is a real history lesson and allows the visitor to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes and ideas and stages.QB-5, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU

June - July 2015

What to see Parks and Gardens All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh) This massive complex of pavilions buildings whose glory is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so pavilions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex surrounded by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements. Some weekends it is crawling with families and sports enthusiasts. Space fans should look out for the soaring monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same name.QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Park open 09:00 - 23:00. Please see the website for opening hours of the museums. Mon closed. Entrance park free. Please see the website for admission of the museums. Kolomenskoe Museum Estate Sprawling and green Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids, mums and dads, old grandmothers and young hipsters alike. The gentle sloping hills covered with cherry trees in the warmer months, the abundance of seating and the wafting aroma of sizzling shaslik from afar put visitors in a cheerful mood. Remnants of this estate’s past life as a Royal Estate can be identified in the scattering of different museums like the beekeeping house and the many churches. It’s also UNESCO listed. Got Tsar fever? Take a troika ride. Just don’t bring any beer bought from shops outside of the park or you could end up getting friendly with the police and making a deposit to their own beer fund.QPr. Andropova 39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www. mgomz.com. Park open every day 08:00 - 24:00. Museums open 10:00 - 18:00 and closed Mon. Admission to park is free. Admission museums 30-100Rbl. N State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is one of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of the city. The buildings themselves usually house historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and there’s also plenty of stall selling hot drinks. The formal gardens, which of42 Moscow In Your Pocket

fer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neo-classical sculptures, hidden summer pavilions, while the forested area leading to the small river is lovely for a lazy stroll. GETTING THERE: From metro Tushinskaya, Rizhskaya, Dmitrovskaya.Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www. arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museums and exhibitions open Wed - Fri 10:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun and holidays10:30 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 50 - 150Rbl, museums 100 350Rbl, all inclusive ticket 500Rbl. UNK

Tsaritsyno Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www. tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 80 - 650Rbl. UK

On parks read more on pages 44 - 45 moscow.inyourpocket.com

What to see Writer’s museums Bulgakov House Museum - Theatre Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where Bulgakov, the author of Master and Margarita lived and wrote his famous novel. Today it is an artist’s gathering place with exhibitions of contemporary Russian artists and a historical exhibition dedicated to the house’s most famous inhabitant. The resident feline Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and there’s even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and pies.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 06 19, www.dombulgakova.ru. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Admission free. PALW Gorky Memorial Museum Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects - Fyodor Schechtel - in 1900, the Ryabushinsky Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy.QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. N Lev Tolstoy Museum Dedicated to the life of the man behind War and Peace and Anna Karenina, this is a reverential place packed with personal and literary material. A complex and conflicted individual, the exhibits trace his life from childhood to death and the emergence of his major works. Easy to follow due to some great carded English translations, this is a good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul. Prechistenka 11, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74 10. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. N www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Gogol House Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in the very centre of Moscow near Arbat Square, with its stone arcades and balconies, may seem like your average merchant’s mansion but there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. This house has a very rich history dating back to the early 17th century and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent the last four years of his life here, this is the place where the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. It was here that he burnt the manuscripts of the poem, and in this very house, on February 21, 1852 that the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250 000 volumes, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogol’s study was a special room where he could enjoy some peace and quiet while he put his timeless words down on paper. The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where the author entertained his guests. The “Government Inspector” room tells visitors about Russian theatre of the 1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogol’s Theatre and plays based on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol stayed when his health began to fade in 1852, purely because it was warmer than the other rooms. Although special attention is given to the works of Gogol and other material relating to his life, visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The library also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where anyone from novices to professionals can browse through music books and even have a go on the electric piano with special headphones to better hear how they sound. The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to the works of Gogol and other prominent Russian authors. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 58 81, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. June - July 2015

What to see

Gorky Park In November 2011, when the last of the 100 rotting rollercoasters were demolished, Moscow finally cured itself of its Soviet hangover. What remained was 2,000 square kilometers of potential: Gorky Park was transformed beyond belief, quickly becoming Moscow’s hottest hangout. No exaggeration intended, to cover every possible activity in the park we would have to dedicate this entire magazine, so instead as always, we have tried to pick out the absolute must-do’s, so that you can get the most out of your time at Gorky Park. Food Spending a day in Gorky Park, you are more than likely to work up an appetite! But how to choose which of the many cool, beautiful, hip or chilled out places to spend your hardearned rubles at? We’ve picked out our favorite food spots, depending on what you’re craving. Of course this is just the tip of the iceberg, so don’t be afraid to wonder into somewhere off the beaten track - you never know what gem you might stumble upon. 1. For a caffeine and pastry fix look no further than Le Pain Quotidien, or in Russian, Khleb Nasushchny, located by the park entrance from Leninsky Avenue. Pueroport offers caffeine but in the form of 36 different types of teas. Alternatively, Coffee and the City is a slightly cheaper spot and Puff Point has some of the most succulent profiteroles in town. 2. If it’s something traditional you’re after, consider trying Pelman cafe, serving Russian boiled dumplings filled with meat, fish or various vegetables. 3. If you only have time for a quick bite keep your eyes peeled for Wokker - about as close as you’ll come to healthy fast food, all made with the freshest oriental ingredients. Glowsub (Russia’s answer to Subway) and What’s Up, Dog! are scattered all around the park and are still pretty healthy as far as fast food goes. 4. If dining in a beautiful setting is your main concern, we’d recommend eating at Lebednoe Ozero (Swan Lake). Cafe by day, bar and club by night, Ozero sits beautifully on the edge of a picturesque lake, serving Thai and European food. It is now conjoined by 8 Oz that shares the same lake view and specializes in fresh oven-baked pizza. Olive Garden is another favorite of ours. Located on the Moscow riverfront, there is a totally holiday-feel atmosphere: snow-white mar44 Moscow In Your Pocket

quees, deck chairs, beach umbrellas and real olive trees. You can come here during the day, bask in the sun and freshen up with the finest lemonade. For the ultimate Russian experience, keep an eye out for one of the stalls selling corn on the cob. Another local ‘must-eat’ is ice cream - these snow white kiosks are near impossible to miss and are sure to nostalgically bring you back to your childhood. Sport The fitness fanatics amongst you will find yourselves at home at Gorky Park. From racket sports to dance masterclasses, we cannot emphasize enough that there is truly something for everyone here. You can play recreationally with friends and family, or if you want to improve your game it’s possible hire a trainer. Again, we’ve tried to give you an insight into what is available, but the sheer range of possibilities is staggeringly impressive, leaving absolutely nothing to be desired. 1. If dancing is your thing, there is an eclectic variety of classes available, open to people of all ages and abilities and run practically every day. 2. The joggers amongst you can find training sessions on weekdays and weekends, gathering from Punshkinskaya embankment. Of course if you wish to run on your own there are a number of beautiful paths designed for joggers with water fountains at regular intervals. Particularly for men who are missing that intense body workout, Workout 24 in Neskuchni gardens will let you push yourself to the limit! 3. There are also sports ranging from soccer pitches to tennis courts and anything in between, including a pingpong club - 40 tables makes a stunning sight reminiscent of traditional Chinese Parks. Furthermore if you fancy some sand between your toes, head to the beach sports centre where any kind of beach court can be hired out. 4. Gorky Park has a number of arenas for skateboarding, which if you’re not willing to risk trying makes a great spectator sport! Gorky Park allows its visitors to rent a variety of services, largely related either to sport or modes of transport. Renting a bicycle will cost you 350 Rbl for the first hour and 200 moscow.inyourpocket.com

What to see Rbl per hour thereafter (plus deposit). Roller blade rental is 200 Rbl for the first hour and 100 Rbl per hour thereafter, but don’t forget to hire some protective gear! Another fun activity would be hiring out a pedal boat, costing around 350 Rbl plus a deposit, although the lines can get pretty long for this on weekends. Word of advice and other useful info: bring cash with you to Gorky Park as some of the activities may not be payable by card. Wifi is available throughout the park as are plug sockets. Hundreds of oversized pillows and beanbags are dotted around for your leisure! But the fun and adventure don’t end here. A beautiful riverside pathway - lined with little benches perfect for taking a breather and gazing at the river - will lead you to Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills). Here, you can stand and survey over 1000 years of history.

The Andreevsky men’s monastery at Plennitsy was endowed in 1648 by Boyar Feodor Rtishchev in honour of the victory of Russian troops in battle over Crimean Tatars at a ford outside Moscow in 1591. After the secularisation of land in 1764, the monastery was closed down and turned into an almshouse. The monastery was returned to the Russian Orthodox church in 1991 and has since been open to the public’s viewing pleasure. The history behind the site of N. Ogarev’s and A. Herzen’s oath dates back to 1827, when two young men named Alexander Herzen and Nikolay Ogarev, inspired by the events of the Decembrist revolt. One and a half centuries later on the high slope of Vorobyovy Gory, a stele was erected in memory of the revolutionaries. The memorial was inaugurated on 11 December 1978. The obelisk comprises granite blocks, walls clad in grey granite, a bronze scroll mounted in the left section with a bás-relief portrait image of Herzen and Ogarev facing each other.

vorobyevy Gory It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can make out or play at counting the golden onion globes. Turn around for a glimpse of the great promise of education for the people; Moscow State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest behind it are frightfully unspectacular. The walk up the hill is steep, although the chairlift is occasionally open. In summer the river embankment is a popular spot for picnics, sunbathing and cycling. The bicycle/roller blade rental system is the same in the main part of Park Gorkogo and it is very convenient in the sense that you can rent and drop off your rental item at any rental point within the greater Gorky Park area.

With this level of mobility, you’re ready to discover all the gorgeous historical and cultural sites. Church of the LifeGiving Trinity relates to the mid-XV century. Then it was a village church but over the course of centuries, the church was re-built several times. Its current version was built in 1811−13. Here Mikhail Illarionovich Kutuzov prayed before the Council of Fili. In Soviet times, the church was open and even restored. Now it is a functioning church and unique architectural and cultural monument. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

A new and, in our opinion, brilliant initiative is the Ecocenter, where school children are supported in developing independent projects on environmental themes and inter-regional and international relations are fostered with environmental non-government and state organizations. Children are shown by way of example how to be environmentally efficient with household items. In order to lend the learning process a playful and interesting form, a model urban flat features in the exhibit, where displays familiar to visitors from everyday life can be found, available for experimentation and eco-friendly comparison. After trekking uphill, Andreevsky Ponds are a great place to set camp and laze around as a light breeze passes and the birds sing beautifully. And finally, as the sun begins to go down head over to the observation point: what can we say, a more splendid view over Moscow is yet to be found. Ultimately Gorky Park and Sparrow Hills can compete with any of Europe’s and indeed the world’s finest parks. We hope we’ve left you with enough inspiration here to plan out a day at this wonderful place. If there is one small caution to be heeded, refrain from cramming as many activities as possible into one day, as whichever way you go about it, there will always be something more to be seen or something else to be done. Instead - just go with the flow. Appreciate the weather, the activities, the beauty and the people, because that’s what makes this park so special! And if needed, make a second trip here. June - July 2015

Hidden museums

Moscow is a thriving cultural capital that has so much to offer visitors and locals alike. Locals, however, will tell you that there’s more to Moscow than Tretyakovskaya Gallery or the Pushkin Museum. Sure, these are a must but there are many other fascinating museums and galleries that are definitely worth a visit but have remained somewhat underrated. Literature buffs will be especially pleased with how Moscow commemorates the Russia’s greats. A favorite of Joseph Stalin, Maxim Gorky was a writer and revolutionary who was proclaimed the founder of the new, officially sanctioned socialist realism after the Russian Revolution. His former home, the Ryabushinsky Mansion (designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects Fyodor Schechtel in 1900), is open to visitors free of charge. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy. The most famous resident of 7A Nikitskiy Boulevard was none other than Nikolay Gogol. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps many momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250,000 volumes, a research center, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum is broken up into several rooms (his cabinet, the living room, the “Government Inspector” room and the “Room of Remembrance”). In the library, visitors have access to a large selection of books dedicated N.V. Gogol, psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to Gogol’s and other prominent Russian authors’ works. Read more on page 45. The Chekhov house honors another titan of 19th century Russian literature and sheds light on his life. The museum opened here in 1953 and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was also here that the music lover received pa46 Moscow In Your Pocket

tients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal dedication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions following the life of the great writer, a surprising number of photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Art and music aficionados will surely find the Central Museum of Musical Culture as well as the Institute of Russian Realist Art to their liking. The Central Museum of Music’s permanent exhibition is an impressive journey through musical instruments of the past and from all corners of the world in all their weird and wonderful diversity. Take a trip through Russian musical history from giant balalaikas to the famous and eerie theremin, passing on the way hefty early record players and novelty music boxes. The global collection includes crazy-looking instruments from Cuba to Korea - who knew you could make guitars from armadillos? As well as the permanent exhibition there’s always another temporary one on a subject of Russian or international music and a whole host of events throughout the year which you can find out about on their website. The Institute of Russian Realist Art may be a little out of the way but if you decide to make the trek then you will get to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. If history and anthropology are more your thing, then the next couple of museums should go straight on your to-visit list. The Nikolay Roerich Museum: Nikolay Roerich and his family are possibly some of the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling all over Asia in the early 20th century, Nikolay and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not only to Nikolay’s priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descriptions add depth to the work on display. Above all it is Nikolay Roerich’s magical and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine through - the

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Hidden museums most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory long after leaving. Even if you aren’t a fan of stuffed animals and taxidermy, the Darwin Museum is still an interesting place to check out. It consists of three floors that fit into the theme of evolution. The first floor touches on the history of the Darwin Museum and biological diversity. Although there are few signs in English, the exhibitions are fairly straight-forward. The first floor also showcases many of the world’s ecosystems and recreations of some extinct animals. The next two floors deal with micro- and macroevolution, zoogeography and the development of scientific thought. There are hundreds of stuffed animals set up in their natural habitat as well as an interesting look at how humans evolved.

A slightly different kind of history, the Vodka History Museum (located inside the Izmailovo Kremlin) gives you the detailed and fun history of vodka in Russia and tells you about the role it plays in Russian society. The museum only has one floor, and it’s not very big but you should still expect to spend about an hour and a half looking around. You will learn that it has changed the course of history in Russia on more than one occasion. The museum boasts 700 different small exhibits and the collection of different vodka brands is quite impressive, plus with the regular tour a complimentary shot is of course included! After the tour you can also arrange to attend a vodka tasting session and buy your favorite brands. All information and signs are in Russian and English. Thought provoking and contemplative, the Sakharov Center should be on the list for those interested in the life of Sakharov, Russia’s Nobel Peace Prize winning physicist and human rights campaigner. The upstairs museum room hosts five informative displays discussing the establishment of the Soviet regime, the beginning of dissent, the repercussions, the results (GULAG) and the aftermath. The displays are mainly photographic but there is some installation. While all information is original and therefore in Russian, the museum provides extensive descriptions for each display in English as well as an additional guidebook. Downstairs is a library and reading room. And last but by no means least, something slightly quirky: the Lights of Moscow Museum - a museum about street lamps! Sounds dull? Not when you are controlling the lighting effects yourself! This small and eccentric little place devoted to the history of Moscow street lighting is as interactive as it is unusual. Using the nifty little remote www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

control, you can see first hand just why people complained about the first gas lamps, saying the moon shone brighter, and experience how the discovery of the electric lamp was such a world changing event. There’s also a big collection of clocks in the end of the exhibition, which amounts to only four rooms in all. Go out, explore and enjoy! Chekhov Museum QB-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 6, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last day of the month. Admission 50 - 150Rbl. Fourth Fri of the month entrance free. N Darwin Museum QUl. Vavilova 57, MAkademicheskaya, tel. (+7) 499 783 22 53, www.darwin.museum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 300Rbl. PUK Gorky Memorial Museum QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. N Institute of Russian Realist Art QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl. Lights of Moscow QD-2, Armyansky per. 3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 624 73 74, www.moscowlights.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 30 - 70Rbl. N Nikolay Roerich Museum QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl. N Sakharov Сenter QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 623 44 01, www.sakharov-center.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. The Central Museum of Musical Culture QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. TNKW The Gogol House QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Mon, Wed and Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed on Tue and last working day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. NW Vodka History Museum QIzmailovskoe shosse 73 G, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 97, www.vodkamuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admisson 100 - 180Rbl. Guided tours 240 300Rbl depending on amount of people. Excursion in English should be booked in advance. AK June - July 2015

Where to stay

Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for.

5 stars Ararat Park Hyatt QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783 12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room prices start at 6,200Rbl). Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Hotel National QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms (Room prices start at 8,500Rbl). Hotel Savoy Moscow QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms (Room prices start at 37,760Rbl). 48 Moscow In Your Pocket

Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Metropol QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 9,440Rbl). Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru. 497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at 19,000Rbl). Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre Hotel QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow. com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl). Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport. com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). Sheraton Palace QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). The Ritz-Carlton QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). The St. Regis Moscow Hotel Nikolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;skaya QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices start at 11,000Rbl).

4 stars Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). Best Western Plus Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). moscow.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City Center Hotel QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms (Room prices start at 4,000Rbl). Holiday Inn Lesnaya QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. 301 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Holiday Inn Suschevsky QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Marco Polo Presnja QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms (Room prices start at 5,890Rbl). Marriott Moscow Tverskaya QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices start at 4,800Rbl). Novotel Moscow Centre QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms (Room prices start at 4,602Rbl). Novotel Moscow City Hotel QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).

3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl). Ibis Paveletskaya QUl. Shchipok 22/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Warsaw QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Zolotoy Kolos QYaroslavskaya ul. 15/3, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 617 63 56, www.zkolos.ru. 331 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl).

Hostels Comrade Hostel QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. 9 rooms (Prices per bed start from 600Rbl). Godzillas QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room prices start at 864Rbl). iVan Hostel QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms (Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).

Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you make sure you complain â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the registrations is their responsibility, not yours! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2015

Shopping Russian Souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following: Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring.

Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.

50 Moscow In Your Pocket

Caviar Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

Shapka ushanka If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-thetourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets are made from fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur shops all over the city. Valenki Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your skin as you walk.

Anything pic kled Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers, tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Shopping shop in the museum Are you always at the lookout for these Soviet souvenirs, but want to make sure you find the right ones, then this is your place. Rare items from back when the country was hidden behind an Iron Curtain are on sale here, including stamps, postcards and posters with the popular Soviet – we can do it – slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets, tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop!QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.

Gifts and Souvenirs Art Lebedev You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store. artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW Dulyovsky farfor The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to 1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo. ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Gallery Mikhailov For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www. vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A

Russian gifts This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ALK Shaltai - Boltay The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AL

Markets Danilovsky QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Dorogomilovsky QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249 55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N Leningradsky Rynok QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N Vernisazh in Izmailovo QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Shopping Centres Atrium QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Evropeysky Shopping Centre QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. AK GUM QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK

Prosto Tak They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2015

Shopping Art salon on starosadsky This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

RAKETA WATCHES Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. www.raketa.com. Podium Concept Stor QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com. Open 12:00 – 23:00. TSUM Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 – 22:00. Tsvetnoy Central Market Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 – 22:00. 52 Moscow In Your Pocket

Lotte Plaza QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. LKW Metropolis shopping center QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Novinsky QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797 62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Okhotny Ryad QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AULKW Tsvetnoy Central Market QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW

Bookshops Bookshop Moskva QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Business-Centre Bookbridge QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00. Dom Inostrannoy Knigi QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Respublika QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW

Supermarkets Bakhetle QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A Gum Gastronom №1 QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK Hediard QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Yeliseevsky QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A

Skolko stoit? – How much is it? moscow.inyourpocket.com

Business directory Accountants and Consultants Awara QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com. Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Deloitte QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. KPMG QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. LowLands QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru. Mega-Intel Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. PricewaterhouseCoopers QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val. 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru. SHR Consulting QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com. The Lighthouse Group QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business associations Association of European Businesses QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@ aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru. Russian-German Chamber of Commerce QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.vdw.ru. The American Chamber of Commerce QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce Q小-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Exhibition and conference centres All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Central exhibition hall Manezh QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums. info/M419. Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre) Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru. Expocentre QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00. Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00. World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC) QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.

Lawyers and notaries TIM Services & TIM Advisers QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.

Recruitment Antal Russia QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com. G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive search QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru. June - July 2015

Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience Interview with Patrick Naughter, Regional General Manager Moscow Azimut Hotels. I am Irish. I love travelling and I look for fun in everything I do. At the same time I’m quite a serious person and I am passionate about doing things right. Music and exercise help me to unwind, as does meeting new people and the occasional single malt. I am married to Irina and we have a 16 year old son Ciaran. My love of travelling has enabled me to develop my career in different countries. What makes Moscow special for you? Can you name for us three things about living and working in Moscow that you enjoy the most? Moscow is truly dynamic and international and what I like most about the city is its improved cleanliness, it’s excellent theatre scene and its constant development. The current city administration is doing a good job in improving the city’s attractiveness both for its residents and visitors. I first travelled to Moscow in October 1994 and I currently have the pleasure of working here for a 3rd time. Decision making in business is quicker than in the past, and Moscow is now a far more family-friendly city than when I first visited. Just across the road from my primary place of work is Ekaterininsky Park. It is so carefully maintained with its children’s play areas, boat pond and seating areas. Residents of the area including myself find it to be an oasis during the summer months, and indeed it is a delightful venue for picnics. So, three things? Business vibe, entertainment, parks. Can you compare Moscow with other big cities you’ve been to/worked in? During the summer of 2014 whilst travelling on the Moscow metro I was delighted to find that my carriage doubled up as an art exhibition. One entire side of the carriage displayed paintings along the inner wall. On another occasion the outside of a carriage was painted with typical Russian forest scene. Perhaps similar initiatives are also undertaken in other cities, however I’ve yet to experience this. The Moscow metro is by far most efficient I ever traveled, which is just as well considering how large the city is and how congested the roads can be at times. What are your favorite spots in or outside the city to visit in summer? I lived in St. Petersburg for 7 years before returning to Moscow. I have several friends there therefore St. Petersburg features highly on my annual summer “to do” list! Accepting friend’s invitations to visit them at their dachas in the Moscow countryside is also a fun way to relax and I recently rediscovered the beauty and tranquility of the Arkhangelskoe Estate. Sometimes it’s difficult to make a decision, because my wife and I also enjoy exploring Moscow my foot. 54 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat Contacts American Women’s Organisation Qwww.awomoscow.org. Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) Qwww.gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk. English Language Evenings (ELE) Qwww.ELEMoscow.net. Expat Football League Qwww.moscowfootball.com. EXPATinRUSSIA Qwww.expatinrussia.com. InterNations Qwww.internations.org. Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club) Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org. MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com. Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen) Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub. Rotary Club Moscow International Qwww.rcmi.ru. SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association) Qwww.swea.org/moskva.

Cultural & Educational Centres The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow are organising many activities for Russians and foreigners. The epicentre is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near Taganskaya metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most of the international centres are located there. British Council QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open 13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canadian Centre QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/ deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Institut Français QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/ russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Neso Russia QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Expat & Lifestyle The American Center in Moscow QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat 11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.

International Schools Atlantic International School QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61; Skolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968 651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru. British International School QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. Little Angels QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru. Montessori School QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A P’tit Cref QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com. The Anglo-American School of Moscow QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, www.aas.ru. The International School of Moscow QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

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IWC MOSCOW Summer is the best time to get out and around Moscow to explore the city and it’s a great time for getting together and meeting new people! So why not seize the opportunity to check out the International Women’s Club of Moscow and what they offer? Join one of their free Coffee Mornings to meet fellow expat ladies, have interesting chats, get useful hints for life in Moscow and enjoy a hot beverage and delicious pastry! Learn more about the upcoming dates and events on their website: www.iwcmoscow.ru

The English International School School offering education based on the English National Curriculum for 3 to 18 year olds with small classes and English-native teaching staff. Facilities include sophisticated ICT systems, interactive materials, libraries, and computer rooms. School bus service is offered for Moscow city and district. The school has 3 campuses in Moscow: West (Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro Molodezhnaya), South-West (Ul. Lobachevskogo 14, metro Prospekt Vernadskogo) and East (66A Zeleny Prospekt, metro Novogireevo). QFor more information: tel. (+7) 495 984 59 92, www.englishedmoscow.com

June - July 2015

Expat & Lifestyle trolls and trademarks Twenty five years or so ago, you would see only Soviet and Russian brand names in the streets of Moscow, and only a few of them. Now there are shops everywhere, more billboards than trees and huge outdoor TV screens scream to drivers in traffic jams: “Buy our product”. International brands have flooded the Russian market and within Russia and the former Soviet Union more than a fair share of local brands have developed. Developing a good brand or trade mark takes a lot of effort. You need a product, a snappy name and a recognizable image or logo. You also need to deliver a product of consistent quality and make sure it is there when consumers want to buy it. And you need to advertise, big time. No wonder that business people want to protect their trademarks against copycats. Accordingly, if you are using someone else’s trademark, you want to be sure you will be allowed to use it for some considerable time. Compare it to financing an “European style renovation” in a rented apartment: you want the rent to be really long term and get a good compensation in case of early termination. This is especially important in Russia. Many international brands look at Russia with mixed feelings of greed and fear and prefer to license a trademark to a licensee, an independent local party who will invest in production or sales capacity and, of course, lots of sweat and tears. Once the brand is well known on the Russian market, the owner may want to step in himself, after all he owns the trademark. Without a properly registered trade mark license agreement, the licensee will see no compensation for years of hard work. Unlike some EU states, Russia has not yet enacted legislation to protect independent distributors against international brand owners using local parties to break open the Russian market without proper compensation for the built up market value. The competent authority in Russia is for the registration of trademarks is Rospatent and Russia is a member of the so called Madrid system. Under the Madrid system, a trademark owner registers his brand with the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organisation). It is often incorrectly assumed that a WIPO registration “automatically” covers Russia. For most WIPO-countries, licensees can be registered in the trademark registration form. Russia is one of the exceptions: the actual trademark license agreement must be registered with Rospatent. Of course it must be in Russian and not too many bells and whistles please. Another issue is the spelling of a trademark in Cyrillic characters. To their demise, many international companies have found out that the Russian spelling of their trademark has already been taken. This sometimes happens by accident (checking too many boxes on the registration form), sometimes on purpose in order to extract an out-of-court settlement fee. This last category of ransom-seekers are called “trolls”. Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21. 56 Moscow In Your Pocket

Religious Services Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru. Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:30. International Christian Fellowship QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48 01, www.icfmoscow.org. Moscow Buddhist Centre QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/ en. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Moscow Choral Synagogue QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.

Moscow Choral Synagogue

Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. Seventh-Day Adventist Church QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru. Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org. St. Elisabethgemeinde QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Expat & Lifestyle LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: “To look for a needle in a haystack” If a Russian says this sentence to you, try not to be discouraged! This phrase literally translates into, “to search for wind in the field”, and has a similar meaning to the English phase, “to look for a needle in a haystack” or “to go on a wild goose chase”. You can use this phrase anytime that you know the assignment will be challenging, yet you should continue to pursue it. Chekhov famously used the phrase in his poem “Boots”, about someone trying to get a pair of boots back to their rightful owner. Although the task at hand may be difficult, as it was for the character in the poem that had to search the town while wearing two left shoes, remember that there is still hope.

QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www. lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Moving and Relocations AGS FROESCH Russia QProyektiruyemy proezd 4062, bldg. 6, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 99 61, www.agsfroesch.com. Allied Pickfords QVarshavskoe shosse 127a, MYuzhnaya, tel. (+7) 495 796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru. Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group QOtkrytoye shosse 48a, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. +7 (495) 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. N Move One Relocation QC-7, Ul. Krymsky val 3, bldg. 2, off. 503, MOktyabskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 01 64, www.moveoneinc.com.

Charities Children’s Hospital Fund QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44, www.childhospital.ru. Marias Children Art Center QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru. Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www. bbbsrussia.org. Nastenka Foundation QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS, Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 53 77, www.nastenka.ru. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

S Lyogkim Parom! You can’t say that you’ve ‘done’ Russia unless you’ve experienced a banya. It’s basically a bath house with fun thrown in yet is also a ritual, although its origins stretch back centuries to the days when bathing as we know it didn’t exist. Nowadays it’s more of a pastime yet it’s useful to familiarise yourself; essentially you will enter a hot, steaming room, work up a sweat and then wash it off with cold water, but there is much more to it than just an old-fashioned way of keeping yourself clean. Banya’s range from a small, wooden shed to an ornate building, such as the famous Sanduny (www.sanduny. ru). Many wear a felt hat which helps to protect your ears from the extreme heat – you will strip off completely and head into a room where the temperature is close to 100C, so slipping on a pair of flip-flops is a wise move. The longer you stay in, the sweatier you become, although hardcore banya aficionados can be seen beating each other with birch branches, called ‘veniki’ which improves the circulation, apparently. Water will be poured onto the hot stones to create additional steam, and eucalyptus is occasionally added for a more authentic smell. Once your body cannot stand any more, you exit the banya into a cold pool to wash off all the sweat. This could be anything from an indoor swimming pool to a pond in the garden, and if you really want to show off in winter months, you can roll around in the snow although this is best done after a few vodka shots. On the subject of refreshments, you won’t be surprised to hear that there is often some alcohol involved after you’ve rinsed off sweat off yourself. Most public banya’s will have a small café or shop selling beer, soft drinks and snacks although the swankier the venue, the better the fare (Sanduni boasts a large menu, featuring Russian, Georgian and Uzbek cuisine, plus an assortment of beverages from draught beer to spirits. Then it’s back in for another round of banya, a ritual which will be repeated several times until you’re ready to keel over! Unless you are lucky enough to visit someone who has their own banya, or rich enough to rent out the entire premises, it’s likely to be a same-sex affair but it is all completely innocent. Do bring along some toiletries and a towel for showering at the end. Banya’s are generally geared towards men but ladies can enjoy them too; Sanduny has a separate female section. If you only learn one banya-related phrase, it has to be ‘S lyogkim parom’ which very roughly translates as ‘I hope the steam goes easy on you’! Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com June - July 2015

St. Petersburg Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year.

sightseeing

getting there There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 66), and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

Luxury Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:53. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

58 Moscow In Your Pocket

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Kazan Cathedral QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Russian Museum QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.

modern art centres Anna Nova Art Gallery QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Marina Gisich Gallery QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. ROSPHOTO QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. moscow.inyourpocket.com

St. Petersburg HOTELS Angleterre Hotel QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms. hhhhh Grand Hotel Europe QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. hhhhh Hotel Astoria QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. hhhhh Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh

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Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QNab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www. courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QLigovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh

shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral足teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW GALERIA QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK Nevsky Centre QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AKW Passage QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00. AK

June - July 2015

Oryol

Parks

An easy weekend away for those who have ‘done’ the Golden Ring and want to get slightly off the beaten track but without really leaving their comfort zone. Oryol is sometimes written ‘Orel’ but is always pronounced ‘Aaryol’ and means ‘eagle’ in Russian. Why? Well, legend has it that an eagle landed on a fortress in the settlement which existed many centuries ago where the Oka and Orlik rivers meet, and coined the name. Later, in 1566 Ivan the Terrible instructed a new, larger fortress to be built to protect the southern parts of his empire, and the city reached its peak during the 19th century when it attracted a surprisingly large number of the gentry. Nowadays, Oryol is a middle-status provisional capital of slightly over 300,000 people, and much of what you will see has been built fairly recently since the city was trashed during WW2 as it was occupied between 19411943, but the centre is surprisingly pretty and well kept, allowing for plenty of sightseeing, so long as your expectations aren’t excessive. Moscow this ain’t, but then again the only ‘tourists’ are likely to be other locals wandering about!

Oryol has plenty of parks, the main one being the City park of Culture and Rest, which features the impressive Catherine’s Cathedral, and literary buffs may want to pay a visit to the Turgenev museum which not surprisingly is on ul. Turgeneva 11.

Nightlife While most cities in eastern Europe now boast an Irish pub, Oryol goes one better with an extremely up-market British pub called Chester (Komsomolskaya ul. 36), although if you’re looking for something a little more original, drop into Pint House (Pokrovskaya ul. 3) which used to be a public toilet, but has been converted into a nononsense bar, with several house beers on tap, reasonably priced Russian-bar food, and live bands in the evenings. Also worth a mention is the quirky 3 Etazh café (ul. Pushkina 6) with artistic designs adorning the walls, and the pizza was pretty good too.

Getting There Oryol doesn’t have a functioning commercial airport, so it’s the train, bus or car. Trains leave from Moscow’s Kursky Vokzal (metro – Kurskaya) and take 4-5 hours. Since Oryol is one of the main stops en route to many of Ukraine’s major cities, there are at least a dozen fast trains every day, although it’s advisable to book well in advance as these can fill up fast. Busses are slower, taking around eight hours. 60 Moscow In Your Pocket

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Oryol Outside Oryol Worth a half-day trip is Spasskoe-Lutovinovo, the family estate of the famous Russian writer Ivan Turgenev, situated 65km north of Oryol, just outside the town of Mtsensk which is an hour away by bus (60Rbl), plus ten minutes in a cab (250Rbl). Although Turgenev himself lived mostly in St. Petersburg, Moscow and abroad, he visited SpasskoeLutovinovo regularly and considered it to be his home. Much of the estate was built in the 1850s but the main house was restored in the 1970s and still contains some of the original furniture, books and Turgenev’s personal items, such as a chess board. There are numerous other buildings scattered across the estate, such as a church and stables, plus a recently-constructed museum and gift shop although the grounds themselves make for a pleasant stroll.

Where to stay Déjà vu on Moskovskaya ul. 24, (3,600Rbl for a double room), including breakfast (and lunch, if you want to stick around – we did on one day, but it was very mediocre), the rooms were fine and the hotel is centrally located and they didn’t charge us more for a late-afternoon check-out.

Getting around It’s a good half an hour walk from the train or bus station into the centre, although cabs wait at both. There is a huge eagle sculpture immediately opposite the train station; don’t expect many photo opportunities around the bus station. If arriving by train, walk right out of the station and down Moskovskaya ul. and you will eventually come to the tank memorial on Ploschad Mira (Peace Square), featuring an original tank which helped to liberate the city. Every town worth its salt has a memorial to those who perished during the Second World War, and Oryol is no exception; from there it’s a short walk to the bridge over the Oka river. Heading right after crossing Duchy Park is the confluence, or meeting point of the large Oka, and smaller Orlik (which incidentally means ‘small eagle’ in Russian) rivers, and where a monument was recently built to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the city’s founding. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

russian history in short 9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat. June - July 2015

UL .

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June - July 2015

Street register 1905 Goda ul. Akademika Sakharova pr. Alexandra Nevskogo ul. Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. Apakova pr. Arbat ul. Armyansky per. Bakhrushina ul. Balchug ul. Bernikovskaya nab. Bersenevskaya nab. Bobrov per. Bogoyavlensky per. Bol. Afanasyevsky per. Bol. Balkansky per. Bol. Bronnaya ul. Bol. Dmitrovka ul. Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. Bol. Karetny per. Bol. Kazenny per. Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. Bol. Kiselny per. Bol. Kislovsky per. Bol. Kozikhinsky per. Bol. Kozlovsky per. Bol. Levshinsky per. Bol. Lubyanka ul. Bol. Molchanovka ul. Bol. Nikitskaya ul. Bol. Ordynka ul. Bol. Palashevsky per. Bol. Patriarshy per. Bol. Polyanka ul. Bol. Sadovaya ul. Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. Bol. Spasskaya ul. Bol. Staromonetny per. Bol. Strochenovsky per. Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. Bol. Sukharevsky per. Bol. Tatarskaya ul. Bol. Tatarsky per. Bol. Tishinsky per. Bol. Vlasyevsky per. Bol. Yakimanka ul. Bol. Znamensky per. Bolotnaya nab. Bolotnaya pl. Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) Brestskaya ul. (1ya) Brestskaya ul. (2ya) Brodnikov per. Butikovsky per. Chayanova ul. Chistoprudny bul. Chisty per. Delegatskaya ul. Dobryninsky per. (1y) Dokuchaev per. Dolgorukovskaya ul. Dubininskaya ul. Durasovsky per. Durova ul. Ermolaevsky per. Eropkinsky per. Fadeeva ul. Filippovsky per. Furmanny per. Gagarinsky per. Gazetny per. Gilyarovskogo ul. Glazovsky per. Gogolevsky bul. Golikovsky per.

A-1/2 D-1/2 Đ?/B-1 E-4 C-4 B-3 D-2 D-5 D-3/4 E-3 C-4 D-2 C/D-3 B-3/4 D-1 B-2 C-2 A-4 A-1/2 C-1 E-2 E-2 C/D-2 C-3 B-2 E-2 B-4 D-2 B-3 B/C-3 D-4/5 B-2 B-2 C-4/5 B-1/2 C/D-5 E-1 C-4 D-5 D-1 D-1 D-4/5 D-5 A-1 B-4 C-5 B-3/4 C-4 C-4 A-3/4 A-3 A/B-1 A/B-1 C-4/5 B-4 B-1 D/E-2 B-4 C-1 C-5 D-1 B-1 D-5 E-3 C-1 B-2 B-4 B-1 B-3 E-2 B-4 C-2/3 D-1 A/B-4 B-3/4 D-4

66 Moscow In Your Pocket

Golutvinsky per. (1y) Goncharnaya nab. Goncharnaya ul. Goncharny per. (2y) Gorokhovsky per. Granatny per. Grokholsky per. Gusyatnikov per. Ilinka ul. Ipatyevsky per. Kadashevskaya nab. Kadashevsky per. (1y) Kalanchevskaya ul. Kalashny per. Kazachy per. (1y) Kazachy per. (2y) Kazakova ul. Kazansky per. Kazarmeny per. Khilkov per. Khlebny per. Khokhlovsky per. Khvostov per. (1y) Kievskaya ul. Klimentovsky per. Kolpachny per. Kompozitorskaya ul. Komsomolskaya pl. Komsomolsky pr. Konyushkovskaya ul. Koptelsky per. (1y) Korobeynikov per. Korovy Val ul. Kosmodamianskaya nab. Kostyansky per. Kotelnicheskaya nab. Kotelnichesky per. (1y) Kozitsky per. Krasina ul. Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) Krasnaya presnya ul. Krasnopresnenskaya nab. Krasnoproletarskaya ul. Krasnoprudnaya ul. Kremlevskaya nab. Krivokolenny per. Kropotkinsky per. Krutitsky per. (3y) Krutitskaya nab. Krymskay nab. Krymsky proezd Krymsky Val. Kursovoy per. Kutuzovsky pr. Kuznetsky most ul. Lavrsky per. Lavrushinsky per. Leninsky pr. Leontievsky per. Lesnaya ul. Lubyansky proezd Lyalin per. Mal. Bronnaya ul. Mal. Dmitrovka ul. Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. Mal. Karetny per. Mal. Kozikhinsky per. Mal. Nikitskaya ul. Mal. Ordynka ul. Mal. Polyanka ul. Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. Mal. Yakimanka ul. Mal. Znamensky per. Manezhnaya pl. Manezhnaya ul. Marksistskaya ul.

C-4 E-4 E-4 E-4 E-2 B-2 D-1 D-2 C-3 D-3 C-4 C-4 E-1 B-3 C-5 C-5 E-2 C-5 E-3 B-4 B-3 D/E-3 C-5 A-4 D-4 D-2/3 A/B-3 E-1 F-6 A-2/3 D-1 B-4 C-5 D/E-4 D-1 D/E-4 D-4 C-2 A/B-1, B-2 C-3 A-2 A-3 B-1 E-1 C-3 D-2 B-4 E-5 E-5 B-5 B-5 B/C-5 B/C-4 A-3 C/D-2 C-1 C-4 F-6 B-2 A-1 D-2 E-2/3 B-2 B-1/2 A-2 C-1 B-2 B-2 D-4/5 C-5 D-1 C-4 B/C-3 C-3 C-3 E-4

Maronovsky per. Maroseyka ul. Mashkova ul. Merzlyakovsky per. Milyutinsky per. Miusskaya pl. Mohovaya ul. Molochny per. Monetchikovsky per. (2y) Monetchikovsky per. (3y) Monetchikovsky per. (5y) Monetchikovsky per. (6y) Moskvoretskaya nab. Myasnitskaya ul. Mytnaya ul. Neglinnaya ul. Nikitsky bul. Nikitsky per. Nikoloyamskaya ul. Nikolskaya ul. Nikolsky per. N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. N. Krasnoselskaya ul. Novaya Basmannaya ul. Novaya pl. Novinsky bul. Novokrymsky pr. Novokuznetskaya ul. Novokuznetsky per. (1y) Novokuznetsky per. (2y) Novoryazanskaya ul. Novy Arbat ul. Obydensky per. (2y) Okhotny ryad ul. Olimpiysky pr. Ostozhenka ul. Ovchinnikovskaya nab. Ozerkovskaya nab. Ozerkovsky per. Paveletskaya pl. Petrovka ul. Petrovsky bul. Petrovsky per. Pyzhevsky per. Pl. Nikitskie Vorota Plotnikov per. Plyushchikha ul. Podkolokolny per. Podsosensky per. Pogorelsky per. Pokrovka ul. Pokrovsky bul. Pomerantsev per. Posledny per. Potapovsky per. Povarskaya ul. Pozharsky per. Prechistenskaya nab. Prechistensky per. Presnensky val ul. Prospekt Mira Pushechnaya ul. Pushkinskaya nab. Pushkinskaya pl. Pyatnitskaya ul. Pevchesky per. Raushskaya nab. Romanov per. Rozhdestvenka ul. Rozhdestvensky bul. Runovsky per. Rybny per. Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5 D-2/3 E-2 B-3 D-2 B-1 C-3 B-4 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-3 D-2 C-5 C-2 B-3 C-2/3 E-3/4 C-2/3 D-3 E-4/5 E-1 E-1 D-2 A-2/3 B-5 D-4/5 D-5 D-5 E-1 A/B-3 B-4 C-2/3 C-1 B-4/5 D-4 D-4 D-4 D-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-2 C-4 B-2 B-3 A-4 E-3 E-3 C-5 D/E-2 E-3 B-4 D-1 D-2 B-2/3 B-4 C-4 B-4 A-1/2 D-1 C/D-2 B-5 C-2 D-4 D-3 D-3 C-3 C-2 C/D-2 D-4 C-3 B/C-1 A/B-2 E-1/2 B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul. Sadovnichesky proezd Samotyochnaya ul. Serebryanicheskaya nab. Shchepkina ul. Sivtsev Vrazhek per. Skatertny per. Smolensky bul. Smolenskaya ul. Sofiyskaya nab. Soymonovsky proezd Solyanka ul. Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) Spiridonovka ul. Spiridonyevsky per. Sretenka ul. Sretensky bul. Stanislavskogo ul. Staraya pl. Starokonyushenny per. Staromonetny per. Starosadsky per. Stary Tolmachevsky per. Stoleshnikov per. Stolyarny per. Strastnoy bul. Sushchevskaya ul. Sytinsky per. Tarasa Shevchenko nab. Tatarskaya ul. Teatralny proezd Teterinsky per. Triumfalnaya pl. Trubnaya ul. Trubnikovsky per. Tryokhprudny per. Tsvetnoy bul. Tverskaya ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. Tverskoy bul. Usacheva ul. Ustyinsky pr. Valovaya ul. Varsonofyevsky per. Varvarka ul. Vasilyevsky spusk pl. Vasilyevskaya ul. Vasnetsova per. V. Radishchevskaya ul. V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. Volhonka ul. Vorontsovo pole Vorontsovskaya ul. Vozdvizhenka ul. Voznesensky per. Vspolny per. Yakimanskaya nab. Yakimansky proezd Yauzsky bul. Zemlyanoy Val ul. Zhitnaya ul. Zhukovskogo ul. Znamenka ul. Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4 D-3 C-1 E-3 D-1 B-3 B-2/3 A-4 A-4 C-3 B-4 D-3 C-5 B-2 B-2 D-1 C-1 C-2 C-3 B-3/4 C-4 D-2/3 D-4 C-2 A-2 C-1/2 B-1 B-2 A-3 D-5 C-2 E-4 B-1 C-1 A/B-3 B-2 C-1 B-1/2 A/B-1 B -2 F-6 D-3/4 D-5 C/D-2 C-3 D-3 A/B-1 C-1 E-4 E-3 C-3/4 E-3 E-4/5 B/C-3 B-2 B-2 C-4 C-4 E-3 E-2/3/4

C-5 E-2 B/C-3 A-1/2

Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

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Designer Stepan Lukyanov. Photo by Andrey Bezukladnikov

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