Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Moscow October - November 2014
A Cultural Feast Going out but staying indoors
Get Out of Town
Autumn jewels outside the MKAD
More than 10 years in Russia!
inyourpocket.com N°35
Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
4
In the News
5
Arrival & Getting Around
6
Public transport
City Basics
8
Language
9
Culture & Events 10 Concerts and exhibitions Sport news Gogol House
10 17 18
Russian Matryoshkas
Where to stay 45 Interview with concierge
Features
46
Shopping 50 Moscow Theatre life 19 Russian souvenirs 51 Chelyabinsk 44 Bookshops 52 Where to eat 22 Business directory 53 Russian cuisine 23 Interview with the chef 26 Expat & Lifestyle 54 Outside the city 31 The Expat Experience 56 Nightlife 32 Maps & Index Dance and drink the night away Metro map 59 City map 60 What to see 38 Street index 64 The Kremlin 38 River cruises Churches and museums Artistic places Parks and gardens
39 40 42 43
St. Petersburg
65
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read the listing on page 50
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October - November 2014
3
Foreword
In the News
In his painting “Golden Autumn 1985”, Isaac Levitan captured the essence of the spectacular life and color of Russia’s nature before the coming of winter. Levitan aside, autumn gave and continues giving many great Russian artists and poets the impulse to create their most emotional and memorable art. After all, this is the season that was most beloved by Russia’s greatest poet Alexander Pushkin. This is why it’s such a common misconception that this is the season for staying inside in the warmth and comfort. Sure, any visitor to Moscow simply cannot miss out on a visit to the city’s great theaters and museums such as the Bolshoi and the Tretyakov Gallery. But just imagine the beauty and the astounding kaleidoscope of colors you can behold by getting dressed warm, getting outdoors to one of Moscow’s many beautiful parks (see page 43) with a hot beverage in hand. The hip and trendy Gorky Park or the historical Arkhangelskoe Estate are just a few of our favorites. Staying in Russia a bit longer and want a real Russian experience? Excellent! A trip to Chelyabinsk (see page 44), our chosen city for this issue, is highly recommended. Even that meteorite knew where to catch a glimpse of some of Russia’s most beautiful nature! Autumn is also the time when cultural life starts waking up and getting back into full swing after a hot and hazy summer. No matter what you’re into - concerts, art exhibitions, opera or ballet, drama, comedy performances or some good old healthy sport - Moscow’s got it all in autumn. You can find out all about the coolest events and more on pages 10-21. All this action is bound to make you work up an appetite so, as always, we’ve chosen the best places in town where you can grab a bit and quench your thirst. However you choose to enjoy the vibrant colors of the falling autumn leaves or the sparkle of the first frost in the countryside you do in Moscow this autumn, we want to know how all this beauty inspires you at www.facebook. com/MoscowInYourPocket. Have fun! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket.
Legendary hotel to open E S S E N TI A L
Moscow In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 35, 01.10.2014, 60 000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.
Cover story Flotilla Radisson Moscow. Designed for year-round navigation, these stately vessels ply their way between the Radisson Royal Ukraina Hotel and the Novospassky Bridge on a cruise that takes you past landmarks including the Kremlin and Gorky Park. Read more on page 39.
About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA
LATVIA LITHUANIA
NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND
BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM
POLAND UKRAINE
GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND ITALY
HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE
DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA
4 Moscow In Your Pocket
We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). moscow.inyourpocket.com
The world-famous Moskva hotel, as famously seen on the Stolichnaya vodka label, is set to reopen its doors as the ‘Four Seasons Hotel Moscow’. The fully renovated building, transformed from a Soviet classic of the 1930s into a contemporary space that blends historical integrity with modern comfort and convenience, is taking bookings from October 30. The hotel, ideally placed overlooking Red Square, has 180 room and suites with picture-postcard views of downtown Moscow – taking in the towers of the Kremlin, the domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Bolshoi Theater. The new opening also boasts two world-class restaurants under the guidance of chef David Hemmerle. Quadrum offers an Italian mene, while Bystro has a Russian menu with a Scandinavian accent. Like the recently-opened Four Seasons Hotel in St. Petersburg, the renewed Moscow residence is out to bring contemporary sophistication in contact with Russia’s rich and distinctive history, and add another name to the city’s famous assortment of top-notch places to stay. www.fourseasons.com/moscow
Free entry to museums Moscow has a bewildering array of museums, from grand aristocratic estates to cozy apartments of famous people. Getting to visit them all can be a time-consuming – and expensive – business. But help is at hand; on the third Sunday of every month the city authorities throw open the doors free of charge. About 50 venues operated by Moscow’s Department of Culture are included in the big event, which runs on October 19 and November 16. Highlights include the Multimedia Museum, which attracts some of the city’s best photo exhibitions, the hugely impressive Cosmonautics Museum at VDNKh and the historic buildings of some of Moscow’s bestloved parks at Tsaritsyno, Izamailovo and Kolomenskoye. Privately-owned museums and galleries, and state-run venues like the Tretyakov or the Historical Museum on Red Square do not take part in this regular open doors program. Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.
Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 60 000 экз. No35. 01.10.2014
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Ray of light The annual ‘Krug Sveta’ festival, a dazzling son-et-lumiere show that transforms Moscow’s historic buildings into stunning stages for animated art, is back for its fourth year in October – and organizers promise this edition will be the biggest and best yet. The big switch-on is set for October 10 and for five nights the city’s most famous buildings will become the backdrop for colorful video installations. Prime sites include the Bolshoi Theater, Manezh Square – which this year boasts a ‘media cube’ – and a chain of displays linking VDNKh and Ostankino. The park at Tsaritsyno is also a host this time. The theme of this year’s event is ‘journeys’, and travelers on the city’s streets can enjoy the spectacle free of charge as soon as the sun goes down between October 10 and 14. www.lightfest.ru
Happy Unity Day November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This national holiday is a new old holiday having been celebrated for the first time in 1649 and commemorates the victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which ejected the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday was resurrected in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November 7 which commemorated the Revolution. Creating the confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this holiday…Happy Unity Day!
Winter is coming The times they are a-changing in Russia. After three years when the clocks were set to summer time all year round, the hour is set to go back on October 26. And, according to new legislation approached earlier this year, this switch will be permanent – meaning no further alterations in subsequent years. It means that time differences between Russia and the rest of the world will not change in the fall – Russia will remain two hours ahead of Central European Time, three hours ahead of the UK and Ireland, and eight hours ahead of Eastern Time in the US and Canada. Next summer, those time differences will be reduced by one hour as a result of daylight saving time changes elsewhere in the world. October - November 2014
5
Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Although it is home to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!
Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).
6 Moscow In Your Pocket
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving by plane Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.
Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience whether you are coming from east or west, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night. Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www. belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www. kazanskiy.railclient.ru. Kievsky Station As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www. kievskiy.railclient.ru. Kursky Station Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station. QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru. Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Paveletsky Station This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru. Rizhsky Station You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru. Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for Trans-Siberian adventures, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.
Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl, although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 300Rbl). On the more modern trains, there is an electonicr sign in each carrige, announcing which station the train is approaching. However in the older carriages, it is simply a voice over, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so for those who aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a new comer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!
Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.
Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets October - November 2014
7
City Basics
Language Be on guard!
useful phrases
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.
Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Help! I need some help I don't want
Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.
Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Climate
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Russia in the autumn - rain, wind and then a little flurry of snow. In October Russia’s beautiful ‘golden autumn’ is usually fully underway as the trees start to turn beautiful shades of red, orange and yellow. By the time November arrives though snow will probably already be falling, mixed with the odd bit of icy rain, so stick to wearing layers, waterproof shoes and of course don’t forget your umbrella.
Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)
8 Moscow In Your Pocket
Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)
Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.
Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.
Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
Post Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. moscow.inyourpocket.com
pocket dictionary: Obmyvat Whether you’ve just bought a new car or an apartment, maybe a very expensive fridge or fancy new camera, in Russia after buying this thing you need to obmyvat or ‘wash’ it, to ensure that it will not bring you bad luck. Wash it with what you ask? With alcohol of course! For example, if you’ve got a new flat, invite your friends over, dip the new keys into your vodka shots and drink away. Alternatively you can also obmyvat getting a new job, finishing your military service or getting your diploma, by for example dipping the corner of your contract or certificate into the vodka shot and then gulping down the shot. Cheers!
alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж
A B V G D E YO ZH
З И Й К Л М Н О
Z I Y K L M N O
П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц
P R S T U F KH TS
Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь
CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound
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Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts! Bolno! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko? What time is it? Katory chas? Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol
Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль
October - November 2014
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Culture & Events
Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.
concert halls and clubs Crocus City Hall QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru. Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru. Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. RAY JUST Arena QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru. SK Olimpisky QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.
theatres Bolshoi Theatre QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru. Helikon-Opera QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Maly Theatre QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK Mayakovsky Theatre QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. Moon Theatre QD-5, Ul. Malaya Ordynka 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 13 17, www.lunatheatre.ru. Moscow English Theatre Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details. Theatre PRAKtica QB-2, Bol. Kozikhinsky per. 30, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 55 65, www.praktikatheatre.ru 10 Moscow In Your Pocket
Sovremennik Theatre QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru. Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru. Taganka Theatre QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.
OCtober events 03.10 Friday 20:00 Aznavour Not for the first time, Charles Aznavour is on a farewell tour - but at the age of 90 he’s more than earned the right to sign off from the stage. Renowned as ‘The Frank Sinatra of France’, and one of the few European singers to duet with Ole Blue Eyes himself, Aznavour’s fame in this part of the world also stems from his Armenian roots and his fluency in Russian. The affection is mutual: Aznavour, aside from his diplomatic work in support of Armenian, has been a regular performer in Russia and the rest of the former USSR and even launched his 2007 album Colore ma Vie here in Moscow. So it promises to be an emotional event for the maestro and his fans alike.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.charlesaznavour.com. Tickets 2,500 - 25,000Rbl.
04.10 Saturday - 02.11 Sunday 19:00 Chosen for the Chosen Ones Belcanto Foundation is delighted to announce the international arts festival “Chosen for the Chosen Ones” that is fittingly set to take place in one of the most luxurious mansions on Moscow’s most extravagant street every weekend of October and the first Sunday of November. Guests of Mokhovaya street 11 will witness firsthand genuine art and refinement as Russian and foreign musicians bring pleasure to the ears. The theme of the first performance on October 4th is “The Oscars” - ladies are required to look absolutely fabulous in their best red carpet attire to enjoy classical cinema music. Red is the color of the night on October 11th because it will be about the “Passion of Argentinian Tango”! On the evening of October 18th, ladies will once again wear beautiful red outfits for the “Seasons of the Year” performance by the Mobilis ensemble of solists. October 26th will be the night of Flamenco, so ladies will need to look mysterious and seductive in black. The final performance on November 2nd will take the audience to a faraway city - Astor Piazzolla’s lively tango shows the audience what “Autumn in Buenos Aires” looks like. Ladies in red, please! QС-3, Concert hall on Mokhovaya, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 11, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 965 312 53 71, www.belcantofund.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Tickets 600 - 2,200Rbl.
Organ concerts The Evangelical-Lutheran Stt. Peter-and-Paul’s Cathedral has full organs and makes good use of them by staging regular organ recitals as well as performances of choral and sacral music. “Night in a Cathedral” brings brilliant video installations and breath-taking classical music performances to the cathedral every Friday at 22:00. The concept of video art, which has become so common these days, receives a very new artistic meaning with this project. A symbiosis of sounds and visual images, composers and artists, cultural and genre spirituality - this event is a kaleidoscope of bright visual and auditory depictions. Every Saturday at 16:00 they also have special performances for kids, called “Fairy tales with the organ”.QD-3, Evangelical-Lutheran Stt. Peter-and-Paul’s cathedral, Starosadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 965 312 53 71, www.nochvsobore.com. Tickets 600 and 1,200Rbl. “Fairy tales with the organ” 600Rbl, for children 300Rbl.
04.10 Saturday - 26.10 Sunday 17:00 Organ Plus This year’s Organ Plus festival at Tsaritsyno is dedicated to the great German composers. Starting with an evening of Bach whose music is a recurring motif throughout the month - it also takes in Mendelssohn’s grand ‘Hymn of Praise’ Cantata and an evening inspired by Goethe’s masterpiece, Faust. Great music is delivered by great performers including the German organist Gunther Rost and the unique male soprano Robert Crowe, while the renowned Russian cellist Alexander Knyazev performs Bach’s timeless suites for solo ‘cello. Full details of the festival can be found on the www.tsaritsyno.net website. QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 499 725 72 87, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Tickets 500 - 1,100Rbl.
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Culture & Events
17.10 Friday 20:00 Theory of a Deadman Hot on the heels of their best album to date, Canadian post-grunge rockers Theory of a Deadman are about to make their Russian debut. What kept them, and what have we been missing? Well, they shot to prominence back in 2002 after working with Nickelback’s Chad Krueger, but we won’t hold that against them. Subsequently they’ve carved out a niche as one of the heaviest acts of the past decade or so. This year’s album, ‘SaVages’, has been likened to a musical apocalypse and taps into the disturbing vibe of the band’s earliest releases. Let the darkness descend …QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.theoryofadeadman.com. Tickets 1,590 - 8,000Rbl.
22.10 Wednesday 20:00 Lenny Kravitz Some people take the concept of a one-man band more literally than others. For Lenny Kravitz, producing a recording where he supplies lead vocals, backing vocals and all instrumentals is not uncommon. But since he blazed into the public eye back in 1993 with ‘Are you gonna go my way?’ he’s been a reliably distinctive voice in the rock choir. Backing his latest album, ‘Strut’, Kravitz is kicking off his latest world tour here in Moscow and taking the opportunity to recap a 25-year career with a new batch of songs that, he says, allowed him to recapture his High School musical passions. QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lennykravitz.com. Tickets 2,500 - 15,000Rbl. 12 Moscow In Your Pocket
Culture & Events 23.10 Thursday 20:00 Ani Lorak Ukrainian-born Ani Lorak is one of the brightest pop stars of the former USSR, and her current show, ‘Carolina’, has thrilled audiences from Kiev to Baku. Part musical, part pop concert, ‘Carolina’ channels the spirit of smash-hit stage shows like ‘Mamma Mia’ to tell Lorak’s own story of her journey to fame. Like any musical, it’s a bit schmaltz-y in places, but slick production values make it an intriguing look at current popular tastes in Russian mass entertainment.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.anilorak.ua. Tickets 800 - 18,000Rbl.
NOVEMBER events 03.11 Monday 19:00 Arash There’s more to perky pop hitmaker Arash than might immediately meet the eye. In Russia he’s best known for his collaborations with trash-pop pin-up Anna Semonovich or representing Azerbaijan at Eurovision, but this Tehranborn musician has a wider audience and a wider range of interests. An exponent of Euro-pop for a new Europe, the best of his music blends the Persian rhythms of his upbringing with the slick production values of his adopted Swedish home. It makes for a strangely infectious cocktail of east and west and has stretched his fame across a cultural divide between continents. Relatively unknown in the Anglo-sphere, he could be an intriguing discovery check out his Crocus City gig and see for yourself.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.arash.com. Tickets 1,800 - 4,500Rbl.
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21.11 Friday 20:00 Goran Bregovich The riotous world of Balkan brass has picked up a host of fans in Russia, combining as it does the raucous frenzy of a village revelry with a whiff of that distinctive Slavic melancholy. Bosnia’s Goran Bregovic and his Weddings and Funerals Orchestra is one of the leading exponents of the art, and his on-going tour in support of the latest album ‘Champagne for Gypsies’ has been a huge success. Bregovic’s fame has attracted some unlikely collaborations - Iggy Pop and Cesare Evoria are among those who have recorded with him - but fans mostly revel in the wild and energetic music-making of his live shows.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www. goranbregovic.rs. Tickets 1,500 - 6,000Rbl. 21.11 Friday 20:00 Roxette When Roxette played in Moscow in 1995 the concert was the subject of an hour-long TV documentary combining on-stage footage with reportage of the band’s arrival in the Russian capital. Back then, visiting Western acts were still headline news for positive reasons, rather than a cause for moral outrage among publicity-seeking politicos. This show won’t get anything like the same reaction, although the most recent appearance here a couple of years back promises a crowd-pleasing evening of poprock hits from the authors of Joyride and It Must Have Been Love.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.roxette.se. Tickets 2,000 - 15,000Rbl. 25.11 Tuesday 20:00 Alexander Gradsky In the USSR rock music wasn’t exactly popular. Stuffedshirt apparatchiks watched with horror as the ill-disciplined frenzy of guitars steadily infiltrated from the west. But for Alexander Gradsky the new music was a ticket to fame. His duet with Polish band Tarakany in 1963 is believed to be the first ever rock performance by a Russian; his subsequent career cemented his place as the father of Russian rock. Now celebrating 50 years in the business (and his 65th birthday), this gala show promises a feast of nostalgia.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. Tickets 3,000 - 8,000Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
27.11 Thursday 20:00 Dima Bilan The cheeky chappy of Russian pop is back in action. Bilan’s greatest international fame comes from his two Eurovision performances: a runners-up finish after an odd show featuring a dancer climbing out of his piano and a triumphant win in 2008 accompanied by Olympic figure skating champ Evgeny Plushchenko. Since then he’s not been so prominent for his music, attempting instead to develop an acting career and appearing as a judge on the Russian version of ‘The Voice’. But he remains perhaps the country’s ideal son-in-law, and a good-natured evening is in prospect here.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 6566 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. bilandima.ru. Tickets 600 - 12,000Rbl. 27.11 Thursday 20:00 Ken Hensley There could hardly be a greater contrast between Bilan and the other big gig tonight. Ken Hensley, famed frontman of British metal legends Uriah Heep, is widely acclaimed as one of the founding fathers of hard rock. When bands like Metallica, Guns’n’Roses and RHCP cite your work as an influence, it’s fair to assume rock immortality is assured. Adept on guitar and keys, blessed with a strong back catalogue of his own hits, Hensley is one of the key figures in the relentless march of music that ‘goes to 11’.QClub Teatr, Staraya Basmannaya ul. 20, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.ken-hensley.com. Tickets 1,300 - 3,000Rbl.
Buying concert tickets Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). October - November 2014
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Culture & Events Exhibitions THrough 26.10 Sunday The art of travelling Sketches from around Europe are on display at the Institute of Russian Realist Art as part of an engaging exhibition of work by Anatoly Kokorin. Despite the difficulties of travel during the Soviet era, Kokorin was able to explore much of Europe - and captured his impressions in a series of elegant sketches. His works, whether they plunge into the crowds on the London Underground or soar above the tiled roofs of Tallinn, are far more than tourist snaps: Kokorin had a knack of identifying the pulse of a city’s life rather than merely reproducing familiar views of famous sights. The exhibition also includes examples of Kokorin’s illustrations for children’s books, including his interpretations of the fairy tales of Hans Christian Andersen.QInstitute of Russian Realist Art, Novospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 -150Rbl. Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
Cirque Éloize
10.10 Friday - 12.10 Sunday Cirque Éloize Visits from the world-famous Cirque de Soleil are eagerly awaiting - notwithstanding Russia’s own mastery of the Big Top, the international troupe from Canada never fails to deliver a show-stopping event in its own right. In 2014, meanwhile, audiences are being treated to a new spectacle. Cirque Éloize, a spin-off founded in 1994, has long earned a great reputation for pushing the boundaries of circus art and has already thrilled Moscow audiences with its ‘Rain’ show. This time we get Cirque Éloize iD, a modern-day Romeo & Juliet from the heart of the urban jungle. A cuttingedge contemporary soundtrack and a dazzling stage show bring together a fresh new take on an eternal love story. Combining the grace of ballet with the breathtaking showmanship of a top acrobat, the production is set to wow audiences in Russia just as it has in dozens of cities around the world. October brings just five Moscow dates - book early!QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 6566 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. cirque-eloize.com. Tickets 1,600 - 3,800Rbl. 14 Moscow In Your Pocket
Culture & Events THrough 10.10 Friday Yusupov
THrough 16.11 Sunday Oscar Wilde
“The Yusupov Album” is an exhibition of old photographs from the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century taken from the archives of the Yusupovs and exhibited in an open-air setting in the berceau gallery at the Arkhangelskoe Estate. One of the first people to rent out the estate in the 1860s was a Swiss man by the name of Emile Pricam and at that time many Russian masters of photography were working there. There are also some amateur photos, which, perhaps, were taken by members of the Yusupov family.QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 21:00. Admission park (150Rbl).
Feel like you’re not getting enough Britishness in your life? The State Pushkin Museum might have a solution for you. For the first time ever, lovers of British art will get a comprehensive examination of Aubrey Beardsley’s work, thanks to loans from British institutions including the Victoria and Albert Museum, the British Museum and Tate. “Oscar Wilde. Aubrey Beardsley. A Russian Perspective” covers the iconography of Wilde and Beardsley during their lifetimes, and will be accompanied by a special education program, which includes film screenings and lectures from and talks by the exhibition’s curators, literary critics and art historians.QC-3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 300Rbl.
THrough 19.10 Sunday Honey, I reorganized the collection Art lover Philip Cohen never assumed his personal collection of the great names of contemporary art would ever be shown to the public - the neo-conceptualism he favors is not always something ideally suited to a gallery environment. Yet part of the very nature of his preferred artists - the likes of Warhol, McCarthy, Broodthaers and others - is the desire to build artistic relationships with viewers, to move the creative center away from the artist and make it a shared endeavor involving audiences as well. Cohen began his collection in 1993 with Allan McCollum ‘Five Perfect Vehicles’- one of the works on display at the Multimedia Art Museum in Moscow. But the underlying theme of every work in the show is a determination to see the continued evolution of art in all its forms.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www. mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
16.10 Thursday - 18.11 Tuesday Art in motion Soviet art wasn’t exclusively devoted to heroic socialist realism - it maintained a strong experimental streak that exploded into life whenever the screws of state control were relaxed. The 1960s cultural thaw inspired the ‘Dvizheniya’ (Movement) group of artists. Taking their cue from the Constructivists who were prominent in the early years of Soviet art, they moved away from the long-favored state style and returned to the early 20th century preoccupation with creating a unified - and unifying - artistic language. Despite sailing close to the winds of acceptable cultural expression, the group was even able to exhibit beyond the Iron Curtain. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Dvizheniya’s debut show, and the Art Story gallery is celebrating with a collection of 150 works by 13 leading members of the movement.QB-1, ArtStory, Staropimenovsky per. 14, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 13 43, www.art-story.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free.
russian motives THrough 30.11 Sunday Treasures from the south The ancient Samatians, a nomadic tribe which wandered from the Volga to the Danube - used their exquisite gold as a means of communicating with the gods. That’s why their prize ornaments and weapons were often buried with their chiefs, leaving a breathtaking legacy of beautiful works of art dating back to the fifth century BC. This collection was assembled by the Museum of Astrakhan during the late 20th century after extensive excavations of burial mounds in the region. Works include many items in the ‘animal style’ also seen among the neighboring Scythian tribes: deer, panthers, horses and sheep are intertwined in staggering detail. THrough 16.05 Saturday Traditional craft from past to present
Painted lacquer snuffboxes became hugely fashionable in the late 18th century, and quickly evolved into a celebration of traditional Russian cultural themes. The dark backgrounds gave rise to a host of brightlycolored fairytale scenes, some inspired by folk tales, others by literary classics. It’s a snapshot of the Russian landscape, its dense forests, mighty rivers and mythical lost cities, and it’s a tradition which survived the Soviet era without being pressed into propaganda service. Russian masters of lacquer painting have shaped the development of this medium all over the world. To celebrate this rich tradition, the All-Russian Decorative Art Museum is staging a special exhibition. More than 300 works by masters from Palekh, Fedoskino, Mstyora and Kholui form the basis of the display, which includes several items never seen before by the general public. An important part of the show focuses on contemporary lacquerwork, showing how this tradition continues to thrive and develop in the 21st century. QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.
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Culture & Events 20.10 Monday - 14.12 Sunday Views of Old Moscow Few major European cities underwent a transition as rapid and overwhelming as the one that transformed Moscow in the early 20th century. Fortunately, the archives of Yury Eremin, one of the leading photographers of the early 1900s, include extensive records of old Moscow, a favorite theme of the artist. From 1919 onwards he worked with the Society for the Protection of Ancient Monuments, chronicling old buildings in Moscow, Leningrad and beyond. Those works form the basis of the exhibition at Moscow’s Multimedia Art Museum from Oct. 20 to Dec. 14.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. 12.11 Wednesday - 01.01 Sunday From one palace to another For many visitors to Moscow the name Sheremetyev is associated more with the city’s airport, but the name comes from one of Russia’s wealthiest aristocratic families. Their country estate at Ostankino, now swallowed by the suburbs, was one of the most elegant in Tsarist Russia, and their artistic collection was unsurpassed. Now some of that art has found a temporary home in Tsaritsyno while Ostankino is restored, including a collection of sculptures assembled by Count Nikolai Sheremetyev in the late 18th century. It’s a fine exploration of classical themes, reflecting his wish to turn Ostankino into a ‘pantheon of art’ and appears as part of the celebrations of Tsaritsyno’s 30th anniversary.QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl.
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Culture & Events 18.11 Tuesday - 01.02 Sunday Snapshots of the past Julia Cameron was a late starter and an unlikely heroine of 19th-century photography. A chance gift for her 48th birthday triggered her interest in photos, and she quickly developed a distinctive approach to capturing the world on film. Much of her work sought to emulate the large-scale allegorical paintings so popular at that time, while her unconventional technique - often deliberately blurring the focus of her works - attracted both praise and criticism at a time when photographers typically prized pin-sharp realism above any other artistic consideration. This exhibition, celebrating her bicentenary, comes from London’s V&A museum, which staged the only display of Cameron’s work in her lifetime back in 1865.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. THrough 08.03 Sunday Classical French Art at Arkhangelskoe
Imperial Russia’s love affair with all things French is wellknown: time was when fashion dictated even princely underwear should be sent to France to be laundered. But the legacy of that entente cordiale offers more than mere Parisian pampering, as a blockbuster new art show at Arkhangelskoe is out to prove. The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolay was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gerard to Russian audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoe show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries. QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www. arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. AUW moscow.inyourpocket.com
Tough task for CSKA
Hockey tests ahead The KHL season continues with Dynamo looking to pick up after an uncertain start and CSKA hoping to maintain its good form from the early games. The pick of the games this fall includes CSKA’s home game against Ak Bars Kazan on October 21: Ak Bars is now coached once again by Zinetula Bilyaletdinov, former team Russia chief, and the Tatars will hope he can add to his trophy laden CV by leading the team to the Gagarin Cup for the third time. On October 25 the Army Men host Mike Keenan’s Metallurg Magnitogorsk, last season’s champion, and will have to find a way of stopping free-scoring forward Sergei Mozyakin. November 12 sees CSKA take on Lokomotiv Yaroslavl, Western Conference finalists last time around. Loko also plays in Moscow on October 7 against Dynamo, and Luzhniki will also get a visit from SKA St. Petersburg – Ilya Kovalchuk, Viktor Tikhonov and all – on October 31. November 2 sees league newcomer Jokerit Helsinki travel to Dynamo under the guidance of Erkka Westerlund, the coach who led Finland to Olympic bronze in Sochi. November 29 is the date of the next local derby of the season. CSKA hosts, Dynamo hopes to improve on September’s 1-4 reverse on home ice.
Bandy-ing together Russia’s love of ice hockey is well known, but fewer people have seen a game of so-called ‘Russian Hockey’, or bandy. This sport, apparently first played on frozen rivers by monks in the Golden Ring, is perhaps best described as field hockey on ice. The playing surface is similar to a football field, and teams are 11-a-side, rather than six in ice hockey. Players chase a ball rather than a puck and it’s supposedly a non-contact sport. Two teams play in or near Moscow: Dynamo Moscow, historically the country’s strongest team, plays indoors at an impressive modern arena a short bus-ride Krylatskoye metro station. After losing out to Yenisei Krasnoyarsk in last season’s grand final the Blue-and-Whites will look to go one better this time. However, a more traditional bandy experience can be had in Krasnogorsk (suburban trains from Rizhsky Vokzal) where local heroes Zorki still play in an outdoor arena. The season will start on November 8, fixture information for both clubs can be found at www.rusbandy. ru. Evening games start at 7 pm, weekends at 1 pm. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
This year’s Champions League draw has left CSKA Moscow fans with a strong sense of deja-vu – the Army Men are set to play German champions Bayern Munich and English Premier League winners Manchester City once again, just as they did a year ago. Italy’s AS Roma makes up the quartet in Group E. Last season both Bayern and City picked up maximum points against the Russian team, which failed to progress in the tournament after managing a solitary win at home to Viktoria Plzen of the Czech Republic. This time round Leonid Slutsky’s team begins the campaign at home to Bayern on September 30 in a game due to be played behind closed doors as a result of fans misbehaving at Champions League games last season. The next match is on October 21 at home to Manchester City – ironically one of the teams which complained about racist abuse when visiting Russia last season. Roma visit on November 25 to complete the group stages games at Arena Khimki. For ticket information check out www.pfc-cska.com closer to the game days. There’s also Europa League action in Moscow this fall, with Dynamo Moscow making it to the group stage of the competition for the first time. The Blue-and-Whites face PSV Eindhoven on October 2, Estoril of Portugal on November 6 and Greece’s Panathinaikos on November 27. All games are due to kick off at 8pm at Arena Khimki and ticket information will appear on www.fcdynamo.ru. Getting to Arena Khimki is easiest by suburban train from Moscow’s Leningradsky Vokzal, or from the rail station next to Petrovsko-Razumovskaya metro station. Trains from the city to Khimki station take about 30 minutes, and a oneway ticket is 53 rubles. Bus 345 for Rechnoi Vokzal metro station also runs close to the stadium, but traffic in the evening rush hour can be very heavy.
slam stars GO to Moscow The Kremlin Cup is Moscow’s biggest tennis event and this year it has attracted a decent field in both the men’s and women’s competitions, with two US Open winners signed up to play. Local interest is likely to focus on the ladies, where recent US Open Women’s Doubles winner Ekaterina Makarova will compete. The World number 18 is the topranked Russian in a strong draw that also includes Petra Kvitova (world number 4) Anjelika Kerber of Germany and US Open runner-up Carolina Wozniacki. In the men’s competition Milos Raonic is the top seed but recent US Open Champion Marin Cilic of Serbia is likely to be the star attraction. Russia’s hopes rest on Mikhail Yuzhny and Dmitry Tursu. The competition, which celebrates its 25th anniversary, will be played at Olimpiisky from October 11-19. By Andy Potts
What’s going on? facebook.com/ inyourpocket October - November 2014
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Features
Culture & Events Gogol House Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in the very center of Moscow near the Arbat Square, with its stone arcades and balconies may seem like your average 18th century merchant mansion but there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. This house has a very rich history dating back to the early 17th century and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent the last four years of his life here, this is the place where the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. Here, he burnt the manuscripts of the poem. And in this very house, on February 21, 1852 the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250 000 volumes, a re-
The art of Moscow
Through 26.10 Sunday Following on from September’s City Day celebrations, the Gogol Museum hosts ‘Moscow Saga’, a display of work by 12 different artists inspired by Russia’s capital. The exhibition presents a diverse view of the many facets of Moscow life, ranging from Vladimir Bryanin’s nostalgic reflections on the post-war years to Konstantin Batynkov’s landscape fantasies. Other artists take a deliberately naive view of the city, but all are united by the enduring love and fascination with the everchanging canvas of Europe’s biggest city. 18 Moscow In Your Pocket
search centre, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogol’s cabinet was a special room where he could enjoy some peace and quiet while he put his words down on paper.
The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where the author entertained his guests. The “Government Inspector” room tells visitors about Russian theater of the 1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogol’s Theater and plays based on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol stayed when he began feeling ill in 1852 because it was warmer than the other rooms. Although special attention is given to the works of N.V. Gogol and other material regarding his life, visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The library also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where anyone from professionals to novices can examine literature relating to music and even use the electric piano with special headphones to better hear how they sound. The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to Gogol’s and other prominent Russian authors’ works.
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Moscow Theater Life To say that Moscow has a rich and multivarious theater life would be a huge understatement. Theater in Russia dates all the way back to pagan shows with dramatic recitations of fables, tales and proverbs, and singing and dances, performed by skomorokhi, or traveling minstrels. Moscow’s first theater opened its doors in 1672 at the court of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. Though lagging behind the opening of London’s first public playhouse by almost 100 years, Moscow made up the difference quickly, becoming one of the centers of theatrical life by the 19th century. This is when the Maly (Small) Theatre was founded (1824) and the Bolshoi (Big) Theatre replaced the Peter’s Theatre in 1825. The turn of the 20th century marked an outburst of theatrical activities and a search for new styles. What marked the biggest change in Moscow theater was the foundation of the Moscow Art Theatre of Konstantin Stanislavsky and Vladimir Nemirovich-Danchenko in 1898. In fact, Russian drama theater as we know it today is in many ways rooted in the school of those genius stage directors. Today, the Russian capital has over 150 theaters of all sizes and styles! Not only classical but also non-repertory theaters present a wealthy palette of classical and avantgarde plays, unique acting and unexpected stage designs. The so-called “open showcases” combining the best traditions of repertory theater with experimental settings by youthful creative teams have become a new direction to take note of. So which ones should be on everyone’s to-do list whether just visiting Moscow or settling down in the capital for good? If you’re new to Russia and your knowledge of the Russian language is rusty to say the least - good news! A bit over a year ago Royal Shakespeare Company alum Jonathan Bex realized he had little hope of acting in any of the city’s many theaters. Instead of despairing, however, he came up with a creative solution: he started the first ever theater company that would offer exclusively English-language productions to Moscow’s audiences. Moscow English Theater brings professional actors from Britain to stage contemporary British and American drama in Moscow. The new season productions include “The Only Way is Downtown”, a parody on the globally popular TV series “Downton Abbey”, and “Bond”, a parody on the world renowned British spy performed by international touring star Gavin Robertson.
Dva bileta pozhalusta – two tickets, please www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Stanislavsky’s premiere
Dating back to 1918-1919 the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the biggest and most successful theatres of Russia. The opera and ballet performances are well known to the Moscow audience and attract more and more international visitors. The theatre takes part in many international projects and gets yearly nominated for the national theatre premium Golden Mask. In 2013 it was nominated in London for the Oscar amongst the opera’s; the first international opera award for best opera theatre. The Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with wide open spaces and a lovely museum showing the history of the theatre, costumes used for performances and lovely stage models. The Stanislavsky Theatre is no stranger to collaborating with other leading musical theatres from Europe and further afar. This year, together with John Neumeier’s Hamburg Ballet, the Stanislavsky is putting on a coproduction of Pushkin’s classic of Russian literature Eugene Onegin. In choreographic episodes, combining dream, memory, premonition and reality John the ballet “Tatiana” brings to life the story of Tatiana, a young girl brought up in the Russian countryside and her first great love. She communicates her passion spontaneously in a letter to Onegin – an impressive yet eccentric young man from the city, who clearly rejects her unconditional love. Years later, in mirror symmetry, Tatiana, already married, rejects Onegin’s sudden ardent love. Having been pronounced an enormous success in Hamburg in June of this year, this co-production of “Tatiana” is coming to the Stanislavsky on November 7th to bring a balance of heartfelt emotions with rationality that the heroine of this verse novel so clearly perpetuates. Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru. October - November 2014
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Features Next, of course, is the iconic Bolshoi Theater which is literally translated as the “Big Theater”. Not only does it stage truly breathtaking ballet and opera performances, but the building, designed by architect Joseph Bové, is an impressive sight in itself which attracts tourists and locals alike to marvel at its architectural splendor. Although the Bolshoi was officially opened on 20 October 1856, on Tsar Alexander II’s coronation day, it traces its history back to 28 March (17 according to the old style) 1776 when Catherine II granted the prosecutor, Prince Pyotr Urusov, the “privilege” of “maintaining” theatre performances of all kinds, including masquerades, balls and other forms of entertainment. By now, the Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi Opera are amongst the oldest and most renowned ballet and opera companies in the world as well as being by far the world’s biggest ballet company, having more than 200 dancers. The theater underwent reconstruction which lasted from l July 2005 to 28 October 2011, as a result of which, many lost features of the historic building were reinstated and, at the same time, it has joined the ranks of most technically equipped theater buildings in the world.
Features The first “international” theater in Moscow was the theater “At Nikitsky” thanks to performances of world-famous actors such as Sarah Bernardt, Eleonare Duse and Ernst von Possart. Today this is yet another one of the must-visit theaters now known as the Mayakovsky Theater. The theater remains one of the capital’s favorite ones and its actors are among the most famous in all of Russia. The Mayakovsky theatre stages classical pieces from literary masters such as Gogol, Dostoevsky and Chekhov.
Making the Art Nouveau building on Taganka Square its home, the Taganka Theater is most famous for the controversies in its repertoire and leadership as well the incredible talents that performed there at the beginning. Founded in 1964 by Yuri Lyubimov, the theatre rose to popularity in Moscow with Vladimir Vysotsky and Alla Demidova as the leading actors. However its repertoire was so daring and controversial that it got into deep trouble with Soviet authorities, who banned many of Lyubimov’s productions. By 1984 the director was stripped of his Soviet citizenship and exiled to the West. Nowadays it’s a favorite among Russian intelligentsia for its attempts to create principally new non-standard performances. The Bolshoi’s little relative is the Maly Theater, or the very aptly named “Small Theater”. Established in 1806 right next door to the Bolshoi, the Maly traces its history to the Moscow University drama company, established in 1756. Already in the 19th century, the Maly was universally recognized in Russia as the leading dramatic theatre of the century. In modern days it’s a traditional drama theatre that produces classical heritage plays.
For contact information on theatres check page 10 20 Moscow In Your Pocket
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Established in the post-Stalin years which sought to destroy the cult of personality, the Sovremennik Theater (translating into “Contemporary Theater”) was the first theater founded by a free creative group of likeminded talents who were able to prove themselves as a wholesome and worthy artistic collective. Among the founders, all of whom graduated from Moscow Art Theatre School-Studio, were such respected actors as Oleg Yefremov, Galina Volchek, Igor Kvasha, Liliya Tolmachyova, Yevgeniy Yevstigneyev and Oleg Tabakov. Like any theater it’s seen ups and downs throughout its relatively long history but no matter what, its fans always showed support and enthusiasm for what it does and this is why today it’s as strong as ever. Paris has a Sun Theater, Prague has a Night Theater, Japan has a Fog Theater and Moscow has a Moon Theater (Theatre Luny). From its romantic beginnings in a small basement in 1992, the Luny Theater now occupies a gorgeous mansion in central Moscow and regularly tours not only Russia, but also countries like the USA, Israel, Germany, Holland, Bulgaria, Mexico and others. The brilliant Sergey Prokhanov founded the theater and remains its art director until this very day. Most plays are also written by him and stand out for their poetry, unique directing style and refined musical accompaniment. Prolific modern Russian actors like Chulpan Khamatova, Irina Metlitskaya, Anatoliy Romashin and many others have at least once appeared on the Luny’s stage. Although quite young by theater standards in Moscow, Praktika has come to be known as a charming little place that feels more like a gathering of close friends (thanks to its simple interior and small capacity) rather than a full theater experience. The plays staged there are often daring and controversial so it appeals more to the younger crowd of theater-goers on an intellectual, emotional and spiritual search. A new generation of playwrights and and directors has been using this space since 2005 to explore topics like personality and power, ethnos and urbanism, war and religion, ethics and immoralism. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
A true genius of theater art, Konstantin Stanislavsky, made an innovative contribution to modern European and American realistic acting which has remained at the core of mainstream western performance training for much of the last century. For this reason, the world famous Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is most certainly worth a visit. Today the company’s repertoire includes operas (Betrothal in a Monastery, Bizet’s Carmen, Onegin, La Bohème, La forza del destino, La traviata, Madama Butterfly, Pique Dame, The Tale of Tsar Saltan and Tosca among many others), ballet (traditional Russian repertoire and experimental works such as John Neumeier’s water ballet The Little Mermaid) and of course some great premiers (Aida, Manon, Don Giovanni, Il Matrimonio segreto and Tatiana). Read more on page 19.
We all know how beautiful and enchanting classical opera is. Verdi’s most performed “La Traviata” contains all the elements we’re used to getting to feed our operatic addiction: a beautiful, consumptive, fallen-woman heroine, grand Parisian party scenes, the travails of love, a troubled father and a deathbed scene. Bizet’s “Carmen”, a long but action-filled tale with infectious music about the Gypsy dancer at the cigarette factory who breaks hearts and meets her doom outside the bullring is the perfect formula for an opera. But if you know the classics inside and out and are looking for a new take on your favorite art form, then the Moscow-based Helikon-Opera company is worth a visit or two. Specializing in unconventional productions, the company was founded by Dmitry Bertman and gave its first performance, Stravinsky’s Mavra, on April 10, 1990 and nowadays it gives 200 performances a year, primarily in Moscow but also abroad. So in this review we’ve managed to cover only 11 of the 150+ theaters currently bringing smiles, tears, joy and laughter to Muscovites and guests of the capital. Once you cover this list of “essentials”, you will surely find out about all the smaller and more niche outlets and companies that have duly brought Moscow the title of one of the world’s theater capitals. Happy viewings!
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Where to eat
Where to eat Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW
Russian and Ukrainian
Dacha na Pokrovke The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul. 16-18 bldg. 4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke. ru. Open 12:00 - 04:30. €€. PAESW
Cafe Chekhov Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has been inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome innovation. Service can be frustratingly slow at times so don’t be shy with the staff. QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW
SYMBOL key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
Odessa Mama Odessa Mama offers a taste of every Russian’s idealized childhood cuisine. Drawing inspiration from the slightly raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand summer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking to the large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items that you won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus, currently Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you grew up in the USSR, this is like going back to your carefree childhood; if you didn’t it’s maybe a bit difficult to see what the fuss is about. The restaurant is run by the team behind the Khachupuri Georgian chain, which has a branch in the same building.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVGSW ShchiSliva Only a short walk away from the Kremlin, although not swamped with tourists, this light friendly café deserves a lot of credit for serving Russian food with a modern and healthy twist. The light, minimal decoration with traditional samovars gives the place an airy feel, and a whole page of menu is devoted to different tea infusions offering different remedies.QС-4, Ul. Volkhonka 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 393 39 61, www.volhonka9.ru/. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €. PTAGSW
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Asian and Indian
russian cuisine
Darbars Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. QHotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, 16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVSW Khajuraho Indian Restaurant Take deep-fried starters like pakora, samosa, and onion bhaji, add caramel-coloured sweet masala chai, Bollywood film music and Kama Sutra sculptures; and what do you get? A modest Indian restaurant named Khajuraho with a uniquely Indian romantic ambience. Fresh, fragrant, richly spiced Indian food on an above-average budget. Offering a wide selection of vegetarian options, I can hear the collective vegetarian sigh of relief, as well as traditional meat dishes and British-Indian classics. Impressive bread selection including roti, naan, parata and kulcha, attentive service, and well-sized portions apart from the rice. A strong contender within Moscow’s curry-eating community for best Indian restaurant.QShmitovsky proezd 14, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 256 81 36, www. khajuraho.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PAVS Kitaisky Kvartal The menu at ‘Chinese Quarter’ features plenty of dim sum, noodle dishes and some less well-known Chinese options, and vegetarians will find there’s a good selection. Business lunches cater to the very hungry - though they cost 350Rbl, that’ll get you unlimited amounts of the tasty oriental salad bar and from selected hot dishes as well. We recommend the refreshing homemade jasmine iced tea, which you may want several glasses of if you pick an especially well salted dish. The bamboo décor and unintrusive music mean this is a relaxing sort of place, even at their restaurant on the busy Taganskaya Pl. Also at Pr. Mira 1 (metro Sukharevskaya).QE-4, Vorontsovskaya ul. 2/10, bldg. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 32 02, www. chinachain.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PAVSW ZeNQ Well hidden in the bottom left end of the upscale Nikolskaya shopping centre, ZenQ is a perfectly accomplished little Japanese joint. As well as the usual popular rolls and sashimi, they have a wide selection of huge soups, some of which are very spicy. There’s also an abundance of good traditional meat and rice options to choose from. The business lunch here is great value for the area and Japanese embassy staff can often be spotted tucking in to meals.QC-2, Tretyakov Plaza shopping galleries (1st floor), Nikolskaya ul. 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 641 32 02. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAVSW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually finds its way into everything. Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka). Soups and salads Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka. Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot. Main dishes Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce. October - November 2014
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Where to eat Beer Restaurants Koslovica Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour. QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru/moscow. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW Pilsner Paveletskaya Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well.QD-5, Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.pilsner. ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW
Cafes and Bakeries Coffee Pyu One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn’t even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads, homemade pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in large portions for sharing as well as individual servings. Occasional live acoustic concerts add to the soothing and tranquil refuge.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9 bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www.coffeepiu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00 - 23:00. Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. €. PAGW
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Where to eat Jeffrey’s Coffee In Jeffrey’s you pay for the time you are at this American coffee bar. Their professional barista prepares great drinks and during the day you can sit and relax and perhaps get a little work done. In the evening this bar becomes jazzy, with live music and a homey atmosphere. You can buy a guest card for 350 rubles and spend the whole day enjoying coffee, tea, cold drinks, sweets and snacks. What generosity in Moscow these days!QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 15, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 495 623 87 77, www. jeffreyscoffee.ru. Open 08:00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun 10:00 23:00. €. PAGW Khleb and Co at Malaya Bronnaya This chic Parisian patisserie makes for an effortlessly stylish environment to enjoy a quick coffee, and the heaps of carefully baked goods seek to underline the cultural importance of bread in Russia as in France. All sorts of breads and pastries, both French and Russian style, will fill a corner as you pop in to or from work.QB-2, Malaya Bronnaya 21/13, bldg. 2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 86 94, www.eatout.ru/cafe/hleb.html. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €€. PAGW
Noev Kovcheg The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a pond of tropical fish just inside the entrance define Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. Appropriately named, the venue was in fact opened on the 17th of the 7th month – the day when Noah’s ark ran aground on Mount Ararat in the bible story, and the hulking building looming on the hill immediately puts you in mind of an ark, feeling mysteriously Tardis like with its many interlinking chambers and floors. The food explores all of Armenian cuisine, with many classic marinated shish kebab dishes from fresh meat delivered daily, and the classy bar will provide you with a plethora of fine wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGSW Sakhli Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior. Of particular note are the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal.QС-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli. ru/en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW
Madame Boulanger This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy with the classic French éclairs, handmade chocolates, macaroons and of course obvious favourites croissants. If you choose to eat in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous mismatched antique fine china crockery and admire the charming interior, or opt to sit out on the summer terrace with views of the boulevard, and musicians are welcome to serenade the other guests on their piano. Drinks are also available to go; cakes and other tasty treats can be made to order and delivered to your door.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madameboulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW
Suliko on Patriarshie Suliko is a place to eat and eat very well. Famous in Moscow for its khinkali, the giant meat-filled dumplings here do not disappoint. With the perfect blend of herbs and spices, they are rightly said to be some of the best outside of Georgia. Service is low key but spotless and a word of warning; order carefully, in traditional style, the portions here are really big.QB-2, Ermolaevsky per. 7, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 41 89, www.suliko.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. PAGSW
Caucasian
European
Khachapuri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5 (metro Chistye Prudy) and Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €. PAVEGSW
Brix If it is fine wine you seek, look no further. There are few better bars where you can sip a good wine in good company than at Brix 2. Whilst the bar’s chic character may match its classy customers - neither reflect its modest prices. With wines so well-selected and well-priced, what’s the catch? We still haven’t found one!QB-2, Maly Kozykhinsky pereulok 10/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 95 94, www.brix-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAW
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Coin Despite its name, this former printhouse offers a very reasonably priced varied menu of fantastic European food and boasts a drinks menu for any occasion. Owner Alexander Shikin has plans to introduce concerts and exhibitions to this vast, stylishly renovated industrial space where www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
there are already multiple screens for sports viewing. Be sure to check the restaurant’s Facebook page for updates. QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 71/5, bldg. 2, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 67 80, www.coin-hall.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGW Food Embassy Everything about Food Embassy screams hip. From their trendy music indoors to the Miami vibe outdoors, you’ll only find the coolest cats here. As appearances go their décor is faultless, and this is mirrored by their presentation of food, which too was perfect. Though there’s a clear emphasis on quality over quantity, you won’t hear any complaints from us about that!QD-1, Prospekt Mira 26, bldg. 8, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 256 04 03, www.foodembassy.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGW Funky Lab Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures of all dishes? Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just because of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is that the food is just plain good.QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www. funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGSW October - November 2014
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Where to eat Interview with the chef Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Dragan Milosavlevich. I was born on March 29th, 1970. I’ve been a chef since 1989 and have been working for the Porto Maltese chain of restaurants since 2004. My specialty, of course, is fish and seafood. What makes Moscow a special place for you? As a chef I really appreciate all the gastronomical opportunities in this city. I enjoy dining in the restaurants of my friends, like “Porto Pomodoro” for example. Visiting culinary expos and forums is another activity I enjoy doing in this city. Here I’m also becoming better acquainted with art in places like the Pushkin Museum and going for long walks in Park Gorkogo or Poklonnaya Hill. Why should people visit Porto Maltese? We just recently opened up a new restaurant in Vegas Crocus City shopping center and we’ve stayed true to our style: maritime decorations, symbols of Malta and other recognizable features of our chain. If I may say so myself, this particular restaurant may even be a bit cozier than the others thanks to the comfy couches. It’s also possible to hold banquets for up to 80 people or slightly more intimate gatherings of up to 24 people. In terms of food Porto Maltese needs no introduction. Time and time again we’ve won prestigious awards like “Best seafood restaurant” and have gathered a great many positive reviews from guests, many of whom have become regulars. So what’s our secret? First of all, we use only the freshest seafood and fish – they are on the ice display right in the main hall so guests can choose which product they want and discuss with the chef how they’d like it prepared. And here we have seven different ways to choose from! Grill, sauté, braising in cream sauce, baking in parchment paper and salt, frying with potatoes and vegetables and also in the form of white or red buzzara – and these are only a few of the variations! Fish lovers will also be delighted with our wide range of delicious seafood pastas and risottos. Although we’re a seafood restaurant, our meat dishes and delicacies from Spain and Italy are also exceptional. All of our sauces are exclusively our very own homemade blend and can really add an extra something to any dish. As for our desserts, well, lets just say we really know how to spoil our guests’ taste buds! 26 Moscow In Your Pocket
Where to eat Hediard Welcome to a small corner of Paris in Moscow. Hediard is the equivalent of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate factory for French cuisine. The shop downstairs is packed with all kinds of foodie delights from beautifully decorated cakes and handmade chocolates, to Camemberts and bries, to all kinds of pates and chutnies. The cafe upstairs is delightfully sophisticated, if not a little small. However what it lacks in seating space, it certainly makes up for with a menu over 44 pages long!QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 23, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www. hediard.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €€. PAGSW Lucien The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms.QUl. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www. lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGW Scandinavia An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing smiley service for almost twenty years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and calm international atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PTAGSW Yornik Meaning something like joker in Russian, the general design and atmosphere goes against the name and is wonderfully calming, rather than wise-cracking and outlandish. Art deco design features on the tables and walls give Yornik an eye-catching and elegant 1930s New York hotel bar look and service remains discreet but professional making it a great place for private business discussions or intimate meetings. The menu takes a new approach to Russian staple ingredients resulting in new creations such as risotto made from buckwheat as well as some classics such as excellent handmade pelmeni, borsch and other international winners.QA-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 69, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 92 50, www.ernik.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com
International Art Clumba Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets everything at the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that lets the well-sourced ingredients shine. The whole layout itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige combo highlighting the building’s unique architectural features. Patrons are a laidback mix of in-the-know graphic designers, office workers and design school students. QArtPlay na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.artclumba.ru/. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEGSW Delicatessen In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn out to be the best and Delicatessen definitely falls into this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret is the real winning element. Reservations recommended.QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PAEGW Deti Raika It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty fish dishes. With live music in the weekends, ranging from jazz to lounge and even French chansons this place comes recommended.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www. detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAEW Funny Cabany Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue parties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www.funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW Izia Grill What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the trend. It’s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking. Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions, but usually have snack-sized price tags attached. It’s sitdown street food rather than fine dining, but it works well as a neighborhood café.QD-2, Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 623 08 48, www.iziagrill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEGSW
Kon-Tiki The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than a bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in Moscow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill. Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant is always buzzing with the music and energy from Caribbean and Latino themed parties. The authentic Hawaiian style cocktails are moderately priced, so forget your worries and enjoy the rhythm of a salsa or rumba, whilst sipping on the Aztec Surfboard or Ginger Mango Punch, delicious!QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 20, www.kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAEGSW October - November 2014
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Where to eat Mechta Mechta’s secret lies not so much in a creative menu as the ability to make relatively simple dishes well. Forget about mousses and reductions - how do you make a piece of toast taste so good? A place serving an all day breakfast with plush armchairs can’t help but be chilled out. Yet it also feels like a proper grown-up dining experience and bar, with a selection of appetising cocktails of cheering proportions. Then there’s the attentive staff and pleasant decor: this place pretty much ticks all the boxes.QE-5, Sadovnicheskaya ul. 84, bldg. 3/7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 633 58 88, www.mechta-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAGSW Neskuchny Sad This restaurant is in a truly stunning location-set atop a renovated barge at Frunzenskaya Naberezhnaya opposite Gorky Park, the rooftop veranda has views of the parks on the other side of the river and down to the Kremlin. The cool river breeze and cane armchairs add to the air of being on a luxury cruise. Neskuchny Sad serves classic dishes as well as Italian cuisine, with large pizzas. The cocktail menu is artisan and extensive- we tried the Lychee Martini and the Mango and Rosemary Cointreau Fizz. If you do indulge in the cocktails, please note that the boat sways slightly on the water, so it’s not just you. Neskuchny Sad is gaining in popularity with a smart clientele, so do book ahead.QB-5, Frunzenskaya nab. 18D, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 363 64 64, www.nesad.ru. Open 12:00 06:00. €€€. PAESW Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and filled with all kinds of treasures. The White Room is available to hire for private parties.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW
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Where to eat Townhouse A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.QD-5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW
Italian Flotilla Radisson restaurant One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests to Moscow to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it’s already time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA-3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya; Pushkinskaya Embankment, Gorky Park Pier, MOktyabrskaya, www.radisson-cruise.ru. €€€. PAEGW Mamma Giovanna This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in comparison.QC-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com
MoMo Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia in Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of Italian food, offering many meat and fish dishes alongside the classic pizza and pasta, and a selection of French and Italian vintage wines. Its business class clientele are spread across three main rooms, the largest of which resembles a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker chairs.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGSW Palazzo Ducale Pallazo Ducale is about as close as you may ever come to dining in a palace, the kind of majestic, luxurious setting that perhaps only royalty are accustomed to. Though the price is well above average the restaurant has a legitimate case to suggest it merely reflects its quality. The restaurant is renowned for its table service in both breakfast room and main restaurant, both meeting the highest expectations.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 978 71 73, www.palazzodukale.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAEGSW Tarantino Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag. Menu specialties: grilled meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian pizzas and pastas.QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGW
Steak Houses Butchery Bar and Grill A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus. The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom. ru/page-butchery. Open 06:30 - 4:00. €€. PAGW
Reserve a Table Have you ever wished you could reserve a table at popular Moscow restaurants more easily and conveniently? Moscow In Your Pocket and company Leclick have made the perfect solution for you. You can now make restaurant reservations direct from our website. Click on the blue “Reserve a table” button when you open up a restaurant page for Moscow In Your Pocket and quickly fill out the form. It only takes a few seconds to click a couple of buttons and send the reservation through. The booking system will then reserve the table for you (if available) and send you confirmation of the reservation via an SMS text message in English! it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2, Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW Polo club The refined and sophisticated Polo Club’s defining dish is its outrageously delicious slow roasted prime beef fillet. It needs to be ordered a day in advance, as to reach its most incredible tenderness it is achingly slowly roasted for 12 hours. If you can’t think that far ahead the Angus, Prime and Kobe steaks on offer are also outstanding. Make sure you save some appetite for the starters too. The menu has been completely revamped, taking on Asian influences which manifest themselves in dishes such as an authentic (and very spicy!) tom yam soup and a mouthwatering Asian salmon teriyaki.QC-2, Marriott Royal Aurora, ul. Petrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 24, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.com. Open 18:00 24:00. €€€. PAGSW
GOODBEEF This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
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Where to eat Porto Maltese Ceilings covered with sale cloth that looks like it's moving in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned with paintings of maritime settings – all this creates an “at sea” mood once you step into the newly opened Porto Maltese restaurant at Vegas Crocus City shopping mall. This is the fifth Moscow restaurant by the worldwide Mediterranean cuisine network and is a perfect place to wind down after a long day of shopping with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid out on a cushion of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick out what they want to eat. Exceptional service, an original and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine list are sure to impress even the most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs. QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66 km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www.portomaltese.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TNW
food from former republics One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves). 30 Moscow In Your Pocket
Where to eat Sunday Brunch AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel Looking for a brunch place in Moscow? Look no further! Azimut Moscow Olympic Hotel on Olimpiyskiy Prospekt is continuing this wonderful tradition throughout the autumn. Every Sunday guests can lounge around and socialize with family and friends between 12:30 and 16:00 while enjoying a late breakfast. The menu changes every week so you’ll never get bored of the selection of traditional Russian dishes at the generous buffet table, which consists of cold starters and salads, a caviar station with blini, a wide assortment of French and Spanish cheeses, meat and fish dishes, delightful desserts and fresh fruit. The price of the buffet also includes alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages. To get a 20% discount, book 72 hours in advance!QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. Sunday 12:30 - 16:00. Brunch 3,200Rbl and 2,600Rbl in case of booking 72 hours in advance. Children till 6 years free of charge and children from 6 till 12 years receive 50% discount. Marriott Royal Aurora The royal brunch at the Aurora features a broad spread of Russian and international cuisine with over 40 different dishes to be sampled. Italian snacks, blinis with caviar, sushi and sashimi, salads, hot cooking stations, homemade cakes, fruits, ice-cream and a chocolate fountain and more are all there to be devoured. And of course as usual there’s live music, special entertainment for the kids and the drinks are free-flowing. Marriott Grand Hotel offers an Oktoberfest brunch (October 5th) and a Seafood brunch (November 16th). QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora. com. Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Adults 3,300Rbl (no alcohol), Royal brunch 4,200Rbl (includes Australian and Italian wines, prosecco, champagne cocktails, vodka, mineral water, soft drinks and juices). Children under 6 years free, up till 12 years 1,300Rbl. Reservation required. PT
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Bogdarnya Summer may be over but that doesn’t mean that it’s time to bid farewell to fun, wholesome and revitalizing outdoor activities! If you think you need a break from constant meetings, traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and everything else that big city life entails regardless of the season then maybe it’s time to consider a little trip about 120km east of Moscow. There you will find Bogdarnya, a beautiful and welcoming agricultural and tourist complex that lets big city dwellers get back to nature, breathe some fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism.
This 400-hectare riverside property - founded by an Englishman, John Kopiski, and his Russian wife Nina - is located in the picturesque countryside and forest. The Kopiski’s are devoted Orthodox Christians with a mission to promote a healthy lifestyle. Here, everyone and anyone can experience life on a real, working farm that supplies meat to its own farm shop in Moscow. Here, everyone and anyone can learn all about meat production from paddock to plate, watch cheese making, milk the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar and engage themselves in other forms of educational “agritainment”. Here, everyone and anyone is made to feel welcome in the true traditions of Russian hospitality. Eating, drinking and relaxing are not the only things guests can do during their stay at Bogdarnya. Plenty of activities to suit just about anyone’s taste can be organized no matter what time of year you plan your visit. As autumn approaches nearer and nearer and the temperature www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
starts getting cooler and cooler, some recreational activities can actually keep you warm while you’re having fun! Forest rides on horse back are a wonderful way to see the nature and be one with yourself and your thoughts. If you’ve never ridden a horse but would like to learn, why not take a lesson? Don’t feel like being at the reins but still fancy a romantic ride through nature? No problem! The experienced and friendly staff at Bogdarnya is always delighted to take guests around in horse-drawn carriages or sleds. When the horses get tired Bogdarnya also has a nice selection of quads and jeeps for adrenaline-filled forest exploration – all with a possibility of overnight camping somewhere tranquil and far removed from civilization. Thrill-seeking aside, the complex also hosts children’s camps, career guidance programs for school students, plus corporate events and banquets for up to 150 people, training and seminars. Russian holidays are celebrated in fairytale folksy fashion with traditional costumes, music, dancing and much good old-fashioned merriment - samovar, gluxvin and shashlik being at the heart of many such festivities. A 19-room on-site hotel is available for those who just don’t want to leave (and rightfully so!). All rooms have a private WC and shower. A visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome retreat that benefits both body and soul. QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B (121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www. bogdarnya.ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi to Bogdarnya.
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Nightlife
Nightlife Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed.
live music CLUBS B2 Club One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www. b2club.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEG
Dva Mohito pazhalusta! – Two Mojitos please!
DeFAQto This third venue in the FAQ chain of alternative bars is a bit of jumble of styles and ideas. Like a strange cross between English pub and American bar, with a stage that would suit stand-up comedy well, you get the feeling that something is about to happen here, although it never actually does. The music is similarly confused, although the food is reliable and the booth seating in particular is nice for smaller groups. Apparently people dance here sometimes too, although we still haven’t figured out how and where it’s possible.QD-2, Ul. Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.ru. Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs. PAEGW Duma This place is not only literally underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. AEW Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you’ll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit the spot so don’t worry about that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 08:00. PAEW Krisis Zhanra Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced. When feeling unsure about what you want to enjoy this is a safe bet: just make sure to come early or book a table in advance.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 06:00. PENGW
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Masterskaya Masterskaya is a hippy inhabited ex-banya that looks part Viennese coffee house and part bohemian artist’s studio. There’s live concerts most evenings and dancing later on, while during the day dreadlocked student types sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room from their seclusion of their laptops. On the ground floor you will also find their sister establishment Lady Jane which serves excellent international food early in the evenings and incredibly loud house music later on. To find it go down the alley between Neglinaya ul. and ul. Rozhdestvenka and head up to the first floor.QС-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
Bars Bar Strelka The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs. QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTALEGW Kvartira 44 The main draw of this branch of the popular french style cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace, which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow, and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal. Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34, www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEW Mayak Located on top of the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Frequented by journalists, actors and writers, it’s the type of place where ‘just a quiet’ drink can go on for hours and include numerous vodka shots and the occasional sing-along. Tables are filled almost every night of the week lending it an energetic crowded coffee house buzz, but luckily the service is not affected by the large clientele volume. Sometimes professional musicians passing through for a drink on a weekend tinkle the ivories of the ancient piano, but otherwise there’s no background music only lively chatter.QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 74 49, www. clubmayak.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
MyBar This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner and relaxed opening hours (stay as long as you like!) have made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse cabaret, and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with his band Black Light Burns. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG
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Nightlife
34 Moscow In Your Pocket
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Nightlife
Nightlife Clubs Club Garage One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub. ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW
The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work. QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW Tiki-Bar In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin American, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PGW
Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 - 07:00. PAW Gogol Club Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. The music is bohemian European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here.QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PENGW
Propaganda A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portionwise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, they’ve already notched up 11 years and still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.QD-2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENGW
Cocktail Bars Dream Bar The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic, strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison of choice. Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the after-work crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it’s time to take off the ties and let your hair down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW Secret Bar Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley of one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be even more surprised by the democratic door policy and cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights. On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices, you can order a few at a time!QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6, bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Open 18:00 06:00. PAEW
Tyomnoe – Dark Svetloe – Light (for beer) 36 Moscow In Your Pocket
Icon Club The extravagant and glamorous Icon club, opened in September 2013, can accommodate 2000 over its main dance floor, separate bar and dance floor, VIP areas and a roof terrace with superb views of Moscow at dawn. Though men will have to pay to enter, it is worth it for top DJs taking their lead from the most recent trends in Ibiza, Berlin and New York.QC-4, Bolotnaya nab. 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 364 09 09, www.iconclub.ru. Open closed, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PALEGW
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What to see
What to see NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin. 38 Moscow In Your Pocket
Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin. QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad. Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
RIVER CRUISES Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and Yeltsin and many others. The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State University, the world’s tallest educational building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven. At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built to house the Soviet elite. From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so beautiful ever again. QA-2, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radissoncruise.ru. From hotel Ukraina boats leave Mon - Fri at 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, 21:00, Sat - Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (trip lasts 2,5 hrs). From Gorky Park boats leave Mon - Wed 13:30, 16:30, 19:30 (1,5 hrs) and 15:00 and 20:00 (2,5 hrs), Thu - Fri 13:30, 16:30, 19:30 (1,5 hrs) and 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, 21:00 (2,5 hrs), Sat - Sun 13:30. 16:30, 19:30 (1,5 hrs), 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00 and 21:00 (2,5 hrs). It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Tickets for adults 900Rbl, children 650Rbl, first class 2,000Rbl. AUKW
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What to see Churches and Monasteries Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl. Donskoy Monastery The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. QDonskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 02 63, www. donskoi.org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free. Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. 40 Moscow In Your Pocket
What to see Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www. vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www. poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 100Rbl. Institute of Russian Realist Art If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya nab. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www. rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Moscow Multimedia Art Museum This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is one of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of the city. The buildings themselves usually house historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and there’s also plenty of stall selling hot drinks. The formal gardens, which offer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neo-classical sculptures, hidden summer pavilions, while the forested area leading to the small river is lovely for a lazy stroll.Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 21:00. Museum open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat and Sun and holidays 10:00 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 150Rbl. Ticket for park and museum 400 Rbl. For temporary exhibitions you need to pay seperately. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
The Central Museum of Musical Culture The Central Museum of Music’s permanent exhibition is an impressive journey through musical instruments of the past and from all corners of the world in all their weird and wonderful diversity. Take a trip through Russian musical history from giant balalaikas to the famous and eerie theremin, passing on the way hefty early record players and novelty music boxes. The global collection includes crazy-looking instruments from Cuba to Korea - who knew you could make guitars from armadillos? We recommend going for a guided tour as they’re equipped with recordings from many of the strange inhabitants of the exhibition, which makes the experience a lot richer. As well as the permanent exhibition there’s always another temporary one on a subject of Russian or international music, and a whole host of events throughout the year which you can find out about on their website.QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. Tretyakov Gallery For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away. QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.
Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos October - November 2014
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What to see artistic places Bulgakov House Museum - Theatre Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where Bulgakov, the author of Master and Margarita lived and wrote his famous novel. Today it is an artist’s gathering place with exhibitions of contemporary Russian artists and a historical exhibition dedicated to the house’s most famous inhabitant. The resident feline Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and there’s even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and pies.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 06 19, www.dombulgakova.ru. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Admission free. Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki
The house where Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them to come inside and sit down to dinner or Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how the family spent their time, including displays and exhibits of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. QB-5, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 94 44. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Children till 7 years free of charge. Lev Tolstoy Museum Dedicated to the life of the man behind War and Peace and Anna Karenina, this is a reverential place packed with personal and literary material. A complex and conflicted individual, the exhibits trace his life from childhood to death and the emergence of his major works. Easy to follow due to some great carded English translations, this is a good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul. Prechistenka 11, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74 10. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. 42 Moscow In Your Pocket
What to see Nikolay Roerich Museum Nikolay Roerich and his family are possibly some of the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early 20th Century, Nikolay and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not only to Nikolay’s priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descriptions add depth to the work on display. Above all it is Nikolay Roerich’s magical and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine through - the most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory long after leaving. A must see.QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl. Skryabin Museum This tiny but well-preserved museum is a must-see for amateurs of the eccentric composer Alexander Scryabin (1872-1915). Most of the original furnishings have been retained and each seems to have a story to tell. By far the most interesting of these is an unusual device made by the man himself. As a synaesthete, Scryabin associated different musical tonalities with different colours. This led him to construct some unusual contraptions which allowed him to compose pieces for piano and coloured lights, one of which can be seen in the museum. For the early days of Russian electricity this was pretty futuristic, but Scryabin had grander plans: he dreamt of a spectacular multi-media concert in the Himalayas which he imagined would be used in a new age. The popularity he had enjoyed during his life suddenly vanished upon his death, but in recent years his music has enjoyed something of a revival and he is known today as a highly original and compelling composer.QB-3, Bol. Nikolopeskovsky per. 11, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 19 01, www.anscriabin.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Fri of the month. Admission 200Rbl.
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All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh) This massive complex of pavilions buildings whose glory is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so pavilions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex surrounded by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements. Some weekends it is crawling with families and sports enthusiasts. Space fans should look out for the soaring monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same name.QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Museums 11:00 - 19:00. Mon closed. Entrance park free. Museums 0 - 300Rbl.
Parks and Gardens Moscow is known as one of the greenest capitals for good reason - with over 100 parks, gardens, and squares; there is always somewhere to provide fresh air, exercise, and an escape from the city’s busy streets. They are also varied enough to provide something for everyone. The Moscow Zoo, despite its location in a busy city, feels large, and peaceful, and is great for children. Here you can see a huge range of animals, including dolphins, polar bears, wolves, lions, giraffes, and a Siberian tiger. If you’d like to escape the summer heat, one of Moscow’s oldest parks, Sokolniki, is a great destination. There are amusement rides, including a ferris wheel, bike rental, tennis courts, football pitches, volleyball areas, an open-air theatre with free summer concerts, and an open-air pool. Moscow is home to many estates with beautiful grounds, including Kuskovo Park, one of the oldest country estates in Moscow, which features a palace, a lake, and many small pavilions, one of which houses the ceramics museum. Other such estates include the Kolomenskoye Museum Estate, and the Arkhangelskoye Estate, a quiet stately park once owned by Prince Yusopov. Both Izmailovo and Gorky Park have undergone recent makeovers. Gorky Park is now a wholesome place to picnic or jog, with many attractions, such as bike hire, pedalos on the ponds, flea markets, and an art gallery. Izmailovo Park now has modern tennis courts and a pavilion for curling, together with its many other attractions. Other interesting parks include the apothecary garden, which was founded by Peter the Great in 1706, the Muzeon Sculpture Park, which is the ‘dumping ground’ for statues from the Soviet Union that lost their places in other parks, and Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills), which affords great views of the city. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Gorky Park The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in 2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near the Andreyevsky bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular open-air concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art space Garage CCC. There’s usually something special happening every weekend, with many events especially marketed at kids.QB-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.park-gorkogo.com. Open 24hrs. W Tsaritsyno Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www. tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl. UK October - November 2014
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What to see
Chelyabinsk – A Silk Road Secret! The Silk Road throws up images of camels trekking from China through Central Asia to the Middle East carrying precious cargo, centuries of trade before Europeans built boats large enough to explore further than their own continent. The actual name ‘The Silk Road’ is misleading as it was in fact a serious of overland routes from East to West (& back), and the name itself was coined by outsiders at a later date. Ships of the desert (aka camels) are usually associated with the heat; their ability to survive weeks without drinking water has made them invaluable to travelers for centuries, so arriving in Chelyabinsk in -29C temperatures one could be forgiven for questioning why on earth the city coat of arms has a large camel on it! Chelyabinsk takes its name from the fortress of Chelyaba (named after a nearby Bashkir village), which itself was built in the early 1770s to protect early trade routes, from marauding Bashkirs – yes, surprisingly the Silk Road actually stretched this far north! It remained however a small, provincial town until the late 19th Century when in 1892 the railway was built, linking Chelyabinsk to Moscow, and four years later a branch line to Yekaterinburg & the TransSiberian. The rapid growth that followed through both trade & industry led the town to become known as “Chicago behind the Urals”, and this increased further in the 1930s with Stalin’s programme of industrialization. During the Second World War, Chelyabinsk’s strategic location away from the advancing Nazis led to large-scale military production for the war effort, and the city became informally known as Tankgrad as over 18,000 tanks were manufactured there. Today, Chelyabinsk’s population stands at just over a million.
Where to stay Hot in summer, Chelyabinsk is bitterly cold in the winter months, although the temperature ‘rose’ to -26C during the day, and the Miass river was frozen solid. Wandering the streets for more than fifteen minutes – even when fully wrapped up against the elements is likely to turn you into a block of ice rather quickly. Nonetheless, the pedestrianised Ul. Kirova just over the river and ending with a statue of Lenin on Revolution Square (surrounded by ice sculptures) is where the action is; even in winter, locals venture out; there’s no point in waiting for winter to pass here as you’d lose six months each year. On 15th February 2013, Chelyabinsk – not normally used to making front page news even in Russia, briefly hit the international headlines when a massive meteorite entered the earth’s atmosphere and crashed in the Chelyabinsk region. Over a thousand people were injured enough to require medical treatment, most from shards of glass and panic ensued as the object had previously been undetected. Given the harsh winter weather a welcome side-step is the city’s museum, conveniently located by the crossroads of Truda & Kirova, overlooking the river. Granted most Russian regional museums are pretty dull affairs, but this one has got its act together, and pride of place is a beach ball sized rock, which is that largest intact piece of the meteorite and there is accompanying information on the events of that day, plus about foreign objects in general. Entry to the museum is 180Rbl and there’s a sign warning that no alcohol is to be consumed on the premises (We enquired “do people normally come to hang out & drink in a museum”; the response from the cashier was that it’s become a regular feature for wedding parties to pile in & take photographs, and they try to slip in a bottle of champagne, or three)! Granted, Chelyabinsk will never rival Moscow in tourist numbers, but if you do find yourself here, there’s a little more to be discovered than you may have thought – and you don’t even need a camel to get here!
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.
5 stars Ararat Park Hyatt QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783 12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room prices start at 6,200Rbl). Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
Hotel National QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms (Room prices start at 8,500Rbl). Hotel Savoy Moscow QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms (Room prices start at 37,760Rbl). Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Metropol QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 8,400Rbl). Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru. 497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at 19,000Rbl).
Getting there Flights take just under two hours from Moscow to Chelyabinsk, Aeroflot, S7, URAL & YUTAir all fly daily. Trains take over a day, so bring a good book with you (or a large bottle of vodka)!
where to stay The Radisson Blu chain now have a hotel in Chelyabinsk (www.radissonblu.com/hotel-chelyabinsk); otherwise take your pick from a bunch of locally run places. 44 Moscow In Your Pocket
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Where to stay Ask the Concierge Interview with Marina Kalinina, concierge at the Hotel National. Please tell us something about yourself. I have been working at the Hotel National for more than 18 years. When I set foot in this legendary hotel in 1996 I immediately fell in love with it forever. This hotel combines the rich history of Russia with the welcoming nature and openness of its people, the best of the century old traditions of Russian hospitality. I love my hotel, I love people, I love what I am doing and I am very proud to be working in this historical place. What makes you love Moscow? Everything! Moscow is a country in a country with all its extremes. I love Moscow for a multitude of reasons, because Moscow is always an interesting city for me, where I can always find some new things to do and see, it’s unique, exciting and fun. Because it is beautiful at any time of the year! Because Moscow has a great history of 868 years and I am proud of my city! Can you tell us something about Hotel National? The hotel’s building was built in 1902 by the famous Russian architect Alexander Ivanov, who belonged to the old generation of architects specializing in Russian modern style. The building combines classical architecture with modern decorative elements. The hotel “Nationalnaya” was opened in 1903 and became very popular because of its excellent location, comfortable and luxury rooms and elegant interior. Members of royal families, famous writers, composers, diplomats – they have all been guests of our hotel. We heard that Vladimir Lenin himself stayed at the hotel, is that true? In March 1918 members of the first Soviet government headed by Vladimir Lenin stayed at our hotel. Vladimir Lenin with Nadezhda Krupskaya stayed in room 107 on the 3rd floor, Yakov Sverdlov, Felix Dzerzhinsky, Lev Trotsky and Iosif Stalin stayed here at the same time. History comes alive in each corner of this legendary hotel.
Where to stay What hidden gem in Moscow can you recommend to our readers? Glinka State Central Museum of Musical Culture (Fadeeva ul., 2). It is an absolutely unique museum complex. Its collection boasts very rare musical instruments, rare music notes, literature, as well asautographs of famous composers. The rare collection of musical instruments includes masterpieces of Gvarneri’ s family, Stradivari, Amati. World famous composers – Sergey Rakhmaninov, Alexander Glazunov, Dmitry Shostakovich and others - gave their manuscripts of musical masterpieces to this museum. Visitors can see the original versions of them. Here you may also delight in seeing the only organ in the world made the by the German master Friedrich Ladegast that has been preserved since 1868. Its sound is very soft, making it perfect for romantic music. Another masterpiece that every music aficionado will greatly appreciate is an organ made by Alexander Shuke in 1979 (his very last instrument). This museum has its own concert halls with beautiful musical programs. Sometimes during a special event program the audience may gently touch and feel these unique musical instruments – an experience you will never forget.
Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre Hotel QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow. com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl). Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport. com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). Sheraton Palace QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). The Ritz-Carlton QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). The St. Regis Moscow Hotel Nikol’skaya QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices start at 11,000Rbl).
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Moscow has changed a lot over the last centuries, what do you like best about this? What really makes me happy is the fact that Moscow has recently renovated a huge number of beautiful historic mansions and parks on its territory. It is a pleasure to get away from the noise of the city, feel the calm of nature and fresh air, for example in Vorontsovsky park that has existed since the 18th century. If you make it there, don’t forget to pass by a newly restored church which was built in 1807. In the summer you may take a boat trip here, gently passing white and pink lotuses and century old oaks. In the winter there is plenty of space for skiing, skating and tobogganing. I also love Catherine’s Garden – a popular garden at the Saltykovy’s place that was created in the 18th century. The Trubetskiye’s estate in Khamovniki district has been around since the 17th century. There are lots of other picturesque parks and gardens in Moscow. I have just mentioned my favorite ones.
4 stars Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (5500 Room prices start ). Best Western Plus Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City Center Hotel QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms (Room prices start at 4,000Rbl). Holiday Inn Suschevsky QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Marco Polo Presnja QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms (Room prices start at 5,890Rbl).
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Where to stay Marriott Moscow Tverskaya QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices start at 4,800Rbl). Novotel Moscow Centre QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms (Room prices start at 4,602Rbl). Novotel Moscow City Hotel QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl). Ibis Paveletskaya QUl. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Warsaw QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Zolotoy Kolos QYaroslavskaya ul. 15/3, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 617 63 56, www.zkolos.ru. 331 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl).
Hostels Godzillas QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room prices start at 864Rbl). iVan Hostel QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms (Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you make sure you complain – the registrations is their responsibility, not yours! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
October - November 2014
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Shopping
Shopping DON GIULIO Salumeria Formaggeria Prodotti Italiani a Mosca This unusual little shop marks out its own Italian territory in the unfamiliar Moscow surroundings. The combination of the most traditional Moscow architecture in the centre of the city and the powerfully beating Italian heart inside makes this little shop a truly inimitable environment. A wide array of Italy’s finest authentic foodstuffs is on offer here, and the chef, Roberto Bruno, will be there to point you in the right direction of whatever taste of Italy you might desire. The owner himself, Giulio Zompi, will be happy to use his expertise of selling Italian wines to advise you on what to drink with your fresh assortment of Italian goods. They also opened a shop at Mal. Bronnaya ul. 22 (metro Tverskaya).QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 926 666 33 70. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
RAKETA WATCHES Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. www.raketa.com. Podium Concept Stor QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com. Open 12:00 – 23:00. TSUM Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. Tsvetnoy Central Market Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. 50 Moscow In Your Pocket
Gifts and Souvenirs Art Lebedev You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook, situated just off Tverskaya ul., is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store.artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW Dulyovsky farfor The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to 1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo. ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Gallery Mikhailov For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www. vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A Prosto Tak They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A Russian gifts This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ALK Shaltai - Boltay The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. AL moscow.inyourpocket.com
Art salon on starosadsky
This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev. QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Russian souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following: Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring. Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.
Markets Danilovsky QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Dorogomilovsky QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249 55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N Leningradsky Rynok QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N Vernisazh in Izmailovo QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Skolko stoit? – How much is it? www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Vodka and Caviar They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal. October - November 2014
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Shopping
Business directory
SPASEEBO
Bookshops
At work, in the car, at home, on holiday, in the club, behind the wheel, in front of the computer - what is the one accessory that is a must for all these activities and occasions? Why, sunglasses of course! And where do we get them? Why, Spaseebo of course! Here you can choose from the largest range of shades: Russian wooden shades Woodsun, Woodwedo, Woodeez, as well as rare European brands like Alain Mikli, Triwa, Thierry Mugler, Oscar Magnuson and the classical Ray Bans and Vannis. Oh and lets not forget about the snazzy Matsudas from Japan. You can order them all online. Spaseebo’s show room is centrally located near Chistye Prudy metro station and is open from 10:00 until 20:00. Visa and Mastercard accepted.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499 372 02 17, www.spaseebo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
Bookhunter QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 786 25 69, www.bookhunter.ru. Open 09:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Bookshop Moskva QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Business-Centre Bookbridge QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00. Dom Inostrannoy Knigi QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Respublika QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW
Shopping Centres Atrium QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Denis Simachev Store QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 12, bldg. 2, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 57 02, www.denissimachev.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00. AW Evropeysky Shopping Centre QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. AK GUM QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK Lotte Plaza QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. LKW Metropolis shopping center QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Novinsky QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797 62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Okhotny Ryad QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AULKW Tsvetnoy Central Market QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW 52 Moscow In Your Pocket
Supermarkets Azbuka Vkusa Qwww.azbukavkusa.ru. Bakhetle QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A Globus Gourmet QD-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1 bldg. 1, MKitay-gorod, tel. (+7) 495 662 66 03, www.globusgurme.ru. Open 24 hrs. PA Gum Gastronom №1 QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK Hediard QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Yeliseevsky QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Accountants and Consultants Awara QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com. Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Deloitte QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. KPMG QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. LowLands QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru. Mega-Intel Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. PricewaterhouseCoopers QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val. 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru. SHR Consulting QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com. The Lighthouse Group QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business associations Association of European Businesses QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@ aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru. Russian-German Chamber of Commerce QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.vdw.ru. The American Chamber of Commerce QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Exhibition and conference centres All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Central exhibition hall Manezh QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums. info/M419. Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre) Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru. Expocentre QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00. Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00. World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC) QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.
Lawyers and notaries TIM Services & TIM Advisers QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.
Recruitment Antal Russia QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com. G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive search QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru. October - November 2014
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Expat & Lifestyle
Expat & Lifestyle Cultural & Educational Centres The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow are organising many activities for Russians and foreigners. Just check their websites for upcoming events. The epicentre is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near Taganskaya metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most of the international centres are located there. British Council QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open 13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canadian Centre QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/ deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Institut Français QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/ russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Neso Russia QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The American Center in Moscow QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat 11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.
LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: Семь пятниц на неделе – Sem pyatnits na nedele In Russian, this translates literally as ‘seven Fridays in a week’. “Seven Fridays?” you say, “that sounds perfect – I never have to face another Monday morning!” However, if a Russian friend says to you, with a sigh, or a roll of the eyes, “cемь пятниц на неделе”, they are not wishing you a week of Friday nights! In fact, the phrase is equivalent to the English idiom ‘rain at seven, fine at eleven.’ When you hear this, you are being scolded for changing your mind every five minutes, and generally being as fickle as they come.
QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www. lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 54 Moscow In Your Pocket
International Schools
Expat Contacts AIESEC Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org. American Women’s Organisation Qwww.awomoscow.org. Associazione Signore Italiane a Mosca (Italian Women’s Club) Qasi.mosca@hotmail.com Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) Qwww.gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk. English Language Evenings (ELE) Qwww.ELEMoscow.net. Expat Football League Qwww.moscowfootball.com. EXPATinRUSSIA Qwww.expatinrussia.com. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations Qwww.internations.org. Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club) Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org. Moscow Hash House Harriers Qwww.moscowh3.com. Moscow International Choir Qwww.moscow-international-choir.com. MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com. Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen) Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub. Rotary Club Moscow International Qwww.rcmi.ru. SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association) Qwww.swea.org/moskva. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Atlantic International School QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61. QSkolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968 651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru. British International School QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. Little Angels QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru. Montessori School QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A P’tit Cref QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com. The Anglo-American School of Moscow QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, www.aas.ru. The International School of Moscow QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.
U vas est visitka? – Do you have a business card?
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
internations InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. www.internations.org.
The English International School English day school for kids aged 3 all the way up to 18. They follow the English curriculum and offer IGCSEs and A-levels and preparation for studying in the UK. The main focus of the school is on languages, art, music, IT and sport. The school works hard towards organising engaging after-school activities too like drama clubs and school trips. There is also a second primary school (ages 3-12) located in west Moscow at Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro Kuntsevskaya and a third school (ages 3-11) located at ul. Lobachevskogo 14, metro Pr. Vernadskogo.QZeleny pr. 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com.
October - November 2014
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Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience
Hello everybody, I’m Dominique Nicolas Godat! I was born in Bern, Switzerland on September 18, 1958. Growing up, my family was quite big: my Swiss German mother, my French speaking father and my four siblings. Maybe it’s a bit of cliché in Switzerland but nonetheless I attended the Hotel School in Lausanne with practical training in the kitchen, service and front office. After graduating I went straight on to get some work experience back home in Switzerland at the Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne. Then I decided to try my skills out in other cities and countries because lets face it, international experience is just so enriching! So far life has taken me to Dubai, New York (The Pierre Hotel) and St. Moritz (Kulm Hotel as GM for 11 years). To top it all off, I am now working at the Metropol Moscow with the unique challenge of renovating this landmark building and historic jewel of Russia. What makes the Metropol Hotel unique in the world? For one thing it’s a monument to Russian history, it’s some truly authentic for Russia. The architecture and interior design are done in the Art Nouveau style so typical of pre-
Religious Services Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru. Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:30. International Christian Fellowship QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48 01, www.icfmoscow.org. Moscow Buddhist Centre QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www. mantra.ru/en. Open 18:00 - 23:00. 56 Moscow In Your Pocket
Expat & Lifestyle Revolutionary Moscow, when the capital of the Tsarist Empire had been transferred to Saint Petersburg. The people working here right now and the vision of the owner aim to reconstruct that romantic atmosphere from the turn of the century when a wealthy middle-class was seeking its own cultural expression that was different to the traditional eclectic historicism at the time. How do you spend your free time in Moscow and what is your favorite place to go on the weekend? I love Gorky Park because every day there’s something different – this park just doesn’t want to stand still! There’s truly something for everyone there, ranging from fine art master classes to samba sessions that get the whole park dancing and twirling. And then right across the Krymsky Bridge there’s Sculpture Park in Muzeon, where lots of relics from the Communist times have been transported so I feel like I’m traveling in time each time I’m there. I also really like the classy restaurants in the of Bolshoi Theatre area as well as the more funky and youthful ones in the winding alleys just off Tverskaya street. What do you like best about working in Russia? In short: the opportunities which are still open to explore and conquer as it’s such a young and blossoming city in many ways (let’s not forget that Russia as a country only started opening up to new thoughts and ideas just two decades ago). And if slightly longer: this openness to new ideas brings with itself a certain thirst for life and to catch up with the West. So when a trend finally reaches Moscow, the young and increasingly sophisticated educated urbanites like to take that trend, add a Russian twist to it and take it further than anyone has ever done. Moscow doesn’t want to be on the back seat of world culture anymore, it wants to start driving it. Moscow Choral Synagogue QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru. Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. Seventh-Day Adventist Church QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru. Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org. St. Elisabethgemeinde QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Moving and Relocations AGS FROESCH Russia QProyektiruyemy proezd 4062, bldg. 6, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 99 61, www.agsfroesch.com. Allied Pickfords QVarshavskoe shosse 127a, MYuzhnaya, tel. (+7) 495 796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru. Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group QOtkrytoye shosse 48a, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. +7 (495) 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. N Eolia QUl. Tsandera 4, tel. (+7) 905 551 71 49, www.eoliarelocation.ru. Open 9:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Move One Relocation QC-7, Ul. Krymsky val 3, bldg. 2, off. 503, MOktyabskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 01 64, www.moveoneinc.com.
Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.mos@inyourpocket.com
Annual Winter Bazaar of the International Women´s Club OF MOSCOW The International Women’s Club Moscow cordially invites you to join them at one of their big annual events, the IWC Winter Bazaar! Explore the diverse stands and discover some exotic holiday gifts as well as nostalgic goodies from home. Experience the diversity of different cultures. Enjoy the atmosphere of classy, multinational surroundings. Take a stroll through the warm and fragrant lanes of their bazaar and let yourself get carried away by the awaiting program. For all these great opportunities the IWC Winter Bazaar is worth a visit! It will be held on Saturday the 29th of November 2014 from 10am to 4pm at the Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel located on 2 Europe Square. (Metro: Kievskaya) Entrance fee: 200Rbl. For further information go to: www.iwcmoscow.ru.
Is proud to present
One of the biggest Christmas and fundraising events in Moscow Featuring Food, gifts, and handicrafts from around the world!!
Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel and business centre, Europe Square 2 — Entrance fee 200 rubles Proceeds benefit IWC’s charity projects in russia
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Expat & Lifestyle Deciphering Russian Names Ever wondered how Natalia and Natasha can be the same person, yet Alexander and Alexey are not? Is Valery really a man’s name? Which way around do Russians write their name and what on earth is a patronymic anyway! To make life a little easier, here’s a brief guide to Russian names. In western countries, we have a first name and a surname (with perhaps one or more middle names). Russians have a first name, a patronymic name and a surname. Fortunately for newcomers, there are around thirty first names (called ‘imya’ in Russian) each for males and females which account for approximately eighty percent of the population in Russia. A list of the most common ones – as well as the shortened versions – is given below. A patronymic name (called ‘otchestvo’ in Russian) is basically the person’s father’s first name with ‘ovich’ (or sometimes ‘evich’) added for males, and ‘ovna’ (or sometimes ‘evna’) for females. Therefore Anton, whose father is called Konstantin would be Anton Konstantinovich, and Tatiana whose father is Andrey would be Tatiana Andreyevna. The patronymic name is used in formal documents, as well as when addressing older/more senior people. However, younger people (especially those who consider themselves more international) often omit the patronymic in everyday situations, such as on business cards. Many surnames (called ‘familiya’ in Russian) in Russia end in ‘ov’ or ‘skiy’ or ‘in’ for men, and ‘ova’ or ‘skaya’ or ‘ina’ for women – also common is ‘ich’, ‘ko’ and ‘iuk’, especially for people originally of Ukrainian and Belarusian descent. Names of Armenian origin tend to end in ‘yan’ and Georgian in either ‘vili’ or adze’ (for either sex). In formal documents such as passports, Russians will begin with their surname, followed by their first name and then patronymic. However, on business cards or CVs they usually state their first name and then their surname in this order – but not always! Do be aware that there is no perfect way to transliterate Cyrillic into Latin, so often you will come across several spellings of the same name, such as Sergei or Sergey, Ludmila or Lioudmila and Evgeny or Yevgeniy. You will sometimes find that a few Russians have ‘westernised’ their names, especially if they have lived and worked abroad. Examples include Helen for Elena, Julia for Yulia and Eugene for Evgeniy. Both Alexander and Alexey often shorten to just Alex. Some pronunciation tips: The letter ‘e’ in Russian is generally pronounced as ‘yeh’, so that Elena is in fact pronounced Yelyena and Evgeniy is Yevgeniy. Also, Unstressed ‘o’ is pronounced as ‘a’ (especially in Moscow) so Oleg would called himself ‘Ah-lyeg’. Here are some of the most common first names and (where relevant) the more familiar version that you may encounter - our advice would be to stick to the full form unless introduced, or otherwise asked to use the more familiar form (as you would do in English)! Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com 58 Moscow In Your Pocket
© Студия Артемия Лебедева
Male Full Alexander Artyom Boris Dmitriy Evgeniy Fyodor Gennady Georgiy/Igor Ivan Konstantin Leonid Pavel Piotr Vasily Stanislav Valentin Vitaly Vladimir Yuri
Shortened Sasha, Shura, Sanya Tyoma Borya Dima/Mitya Zhenya Fedya Gena Gosha Vanya Kostya Leonya Pasha Petya Vasya Stas Valya Vitya Volodya, Vova Yura
female Full Alexandra Anastasia Daria Ekaterina Elizaveta Galina Irina Kseniya Ludmila Lyubov Margarita Maria Nadezhda Polina Sofiya Tamara Tatiana Valentina Viktoria
Shortened Sasha Nastia Dasha Katya Liza Galya Ira Ksyusha Lyuda/Mila Lyuba Rita Masha Nadya Polya Sonya Toma Tania Valya Vika moscow.inyourpocket.com
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62 Moscow In Your Pocket
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St. Petersburg
Street register 1905 Goda ul. Akademika Sakharova pr. Alexandra Nevskogo ul. Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. Apakova pr. Arbat ul. Armyansky per. Bakhrushina ul. Balchug ul. Bernikovskaya nab. Bersenevskaya nab. Bobrov per. Bogoyavlensky per. Bol. Afanasyevsky per. Bol. Balkansky per. Bol. Bronnaya ul. Bol. Dmitrovka ul. Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. Bol. Karetny per. Bol. Kazenny per. Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. Bol. Kiselny per. Bol. Kislovsky per. Bol. Kozikhinsky per. Bol. Kozlovsky per. Bol. Levshinsky per. Bol. Lubyanka ul. Bol. Molchanovka ul. Bol. Nikitskaya ul. Bol. Ordynka ul. Bol. Palashevsky per. Bol. Patriarshy per. Bol. Polyanka ul. Bol. Sadovaya ul. Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. Bol. Spasskaya ul. Bol. Staromonetny per. Bol. Strochenovsky per. Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. Bol. Sukharevsky per. Bol. Tatarskaya ul. Bol. Tatarsky per. Bol. Tishinsky per. Bol. Vlasyevsky per. Bol. Yakimanka ul. Bol. Znamensky per. Bolotnaya nab. Bolotnaya pl. Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) Brestskaya ul. (1ya) Brestskaya ul. (2ya) Brodnikov per. Butikovsky per. Chayanova ul. Chistoprudny bul. Chisty per. Delegatskaya ul. Dobryninsky per. (1y) Dokuchaev per. Dolgorukovskaya ul. Dubininskaya ul. Durasovsky per. Durova ul. Ermolaevsky per. Eropkinsky per. Fadeeva ul. Filippovsky per. Furmanny per. Gagarinsky per. Gazetny per. Gilyarovskogo ul. Glazovsky per. Gogolevsky bul. Golikovsky per.
A-1/2 D-1/2 А/B-1 E-4 C-4 B-3 D-2 D-5 D-3/4 E-3 C-4 D-2 C/D-3 B-3/4 D-1 B-2 C-2 A-4 A-1/2 C-1 E-2 E-2 C/D-2 C-3 B-2 E-2 B-4 D-2 B-3 B/C-3 D-4/5 B-2 B-2 C-4/5 B-1/2 C/D-5 E-1 C-4 D-5 D-1 D-1 D-4/5 D-5 A-1 B-4 C-5 B-3/4 C-4 C-4 A-3/4 A-3 A/B-1 A/B-1 C-4/5 B-4 B-1 D/E-2 B-4 C-1 C-5 D-1 B-1 D-5 E-3 C-1 B-2 B-4 B-1 B-3 E-2 B-4 C-2/3 D-1 A/B-4 B-3/4 D-4
64 Moscow In Your Pocket
Golutvinsky per. (1y) Goncharnaya nab. Goncharnaya ul. Goncharny per. (2y) Gorokhovsky per. Granatny per. Grokholsky per. Gusyatnikov per. Ilinka ul. Ipatyevsky per. Kadashevskaya nab. Kadashevsky per. (1y) Kalanchevskaya ul. Kalashny per. Kazachy per. (1y) Kazachy per. (2y) Kazakova ul. Kazansky per. Kazarmeny per. Khilkov per. Khlebny per. Khokhlovsky per. Khvostov per. (1y) Kievskaya ul. Klimentovsky per. Kolpachny per. Kompozitorskaya ul. Komsomolskaya pl. Komsomolsky pr. Konyushkovskaya ul. Koptelsky per. (1y) Korobeynikov per. Korovy Val ul. Kosmodamianskaya nab. Kostyansky per. Kotelnicheskaya nab. Kotelnichesky per. (1y) Kozitsky per. Krasina ul. Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) Krasnaya presnya ul. Krasnopresnenskaya nab. Krasnoproletarskaya ul. Krasnoprudnaya ul. Kremlevskaya nab. Krivokolenny per. Kropotkinsky per. Krutitsky per. (3y) Krutitskaya nab. Krymskay nab. Krymsky proezd Krymsky Val. Kursovoy per. Kutuzovsky pr. Kuznetsky most ul. Lavrsky per. Lavrushinsky per. Leninsky pr. Leontievsky per. Lesnaya ul. Lubyansky proezd Lyalin per. Mal. Bronnaya ul. Mal. Dmitrovka ul. Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. Mal. Karetny per. Mal. Kozikhinsky per. Mal. Nikitskaya ul. Mal. Ordynka ul. Mal. Polyanka ul. Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. Mal. Yakimanka ul. Mal. Znamensky per. Manezhnaya pl. Manezhnaya ul. Marksistskaya ul.
C-4 E-4 E-4 E-4 E-2 B-2 D-1 D-2 C-3 D-3 C-4 C-4 E-1 B-3 C-5 C-5 E-2 C-5 E-3 B-4 B-3 D/E-3 C-5 A-4 D-4 D-2/3 A/B-3 E-1 F-6 A-2/3 D-1 B-4 C-5 D/E-4 D-1 D/E-4 D-4 C-2 A/B-1, B-2 C-3 A-2 A-3 B-1 E-1 C-3 D-2 B-4 E-5 E-5 B-5 B-5 B/C-5 B/C-4 A-3 C/D-2 C-1 C-4 F-6 B-2 A-1 D-2 E-2/3 B-2 B-1/2 A-2 C-1 B-2 B-2 D-4/5 C-5 D-1 C-4 B/C-3 C-3 C-3 E-4
Maronovsky per. Maroseyka ul. Mashkova ul. Merzlyakovsky per. Milyutinsky per. Miusskaya pl. Mohovaya ul. Molochny per. Monetchikovsky per. (2y) Monetchikovsky per. (3y) Monetchikovsky per. (5y) Monetchikovsky per. (6y) Moskvoretskaya nab. Myasnitskaya ul. Mytnaya ul. Neglinnaya ul. Nikitsky bul. Nikitsky per. Nikoloyamskaya ul. Nikolskaya ul. Nikolsky per. N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. N. Krasnoselskaya ul. Novaya Basmannaya ul. Novaya pl. Novinsky bul. Novokrymsky pr. Novokuznetskaya ul. Novokuznetsky per. (1y) Novokuznetsky per. (2y) Novoryazanskaya ul. Novy Arbat ul. Obydensky per. (2y) Okhotny ryad ul. Olimpiysky pr. Ostozhenka ul. Ovchinnikovskaya nab. Ozerkovskaya nab. Ozerkovsky per. Paveletskaya pl. Petrovka ul. Petrovsky bul. Petrovsky per. Pyzhevsky per. Pl. Nikitskie Vorota Plotnikov per. Plyushchikha ul. Podkolokolny per. Podsosensky per. Pogorelsky per. Pokrovka ul. Pokrovsky bul. Pomerantsev per. Posledny per. Potapovsky per. Povarskaya ul. Pozharsky per. Prechistenskaya nab. Prechistensky per. Presnensky val ul. Prospekt Mira Pushechnaya ul. Pushkinskaya nab. Pushkinskaya pl. Pyatnitskaya ul. Pevchesky per. Raushskaya nab. Romanov per. Rozhdestvenka ul. Rozhdestvensky bul. Runovsky per. Rybny per. Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.
C-5 D-2/3 E-2 B-3 D-2 B-1 C-3 B-4 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-3 D-2 C-5 C-2 B-3 C-2/3 E-3/4 C-2/3 D-3 E-4/5 E-1 E-1 D-2 A-2/3 B-5 D-4/5 D-5 D-5 E-1 A/B-3 B-4 C-2/3 C-1 B-4/5 D-4 D-4 D-4 D-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-2 C-4 B-2 B-3 A-4 E-3 E-3 C-5 D/E-2 E-3 B-4 D-1 D-2 B-2/3 B-4 C-4 B-4 A-1/2 D-1 C/D-2 B-5 C-2 D-4 D-3 D-3 C-3 C-2 C/D-2 D-4 C-3 B/C-1 A/B-2 E-1/2 B-1
Sadovnicheskaya ul. Sadovnichesky proezd Samotyochnaya ul. Serebryanicheskaya nab. Shchepkina ul. Sivtsev Vrazhek per. Skatertny per. Smolensky bul. Smolenskaya ul. Sofiyskaya nab. Soymonovsky proezd Solyanka ul. Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) Spiridonovka ul. Spiridonyevsky per. Sretenka ul. Sretensky bul. Stanislavskogo ul. Staraya pl. Starokonyushenny per. Staromonetny per. Starosadsky per. Stary Tolmachevsky per. Stoleshnikov per. Stolyarny per. Strastnoy bul. Sushchevskaya ul. Sytinsky per. Tarasa Shevchenko nab. Tatarskaya ul. Teatralny proezd Teterinsky per. Triumfalnaya pl. Trubnaya ul. Trubnikovsky per. Tryokhprudny per. Tsvetnoy bul. Tverskaya ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. Tverskoy bul. Usacheva ul. Ustyinsky pr. Valovaya ul. Varsonofyevsky per. Varvarka ul. Vasilyevsky spusk pl. Vasilyevskaya ul. Vasnetsova per. V. Radishchevskaya ul. V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. Volhonka ul. Vorontsovo pole Vorontsovskaya ul. Vozdvizhenka ul. Voznesensky per. Vspolny per. Yakimanskaya nab. Yakimansky proezd Yauzsky bul. Zemlyanoy Val ul. Zhitnaya ul. Zhukovskogo ul. Znamenka ul. Zoologicheskaya ul.
D-3/4 D-3 C-1 E-3 D-1 B-3 B-2/3 A-4 A-4 C-3 B-4 D-3 C-5 B-2 B-2 D-1 C-1 C-2 C-3 B-3/4 C-4 D-2/3 D-4 C-2 A-2 C-1/2 B-1 B-2 A-3 D-5 C-2 E-4 B-1 C-1 A/B-3 B-2 C-1 B-1/2 A/B-1 B -2 F-6 D-3/4 D-5 C/D-2 C-3 D-3 A/B-1 C-1 E-4 E-3 C-3/4 E-3 E-4/5 B/C-3 B-2 B-2 C-4 C-4 E-3 E-2/3/4
C-5 E-2 B/C-3 A-1/2
Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year.
sightseeing Aleksander Nevsky Monastery QF-3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Kazan Cathedral QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Russian Museum QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
St. Isaac’s Cathedral QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Yusupov Palace QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.
Luxury Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru
October - November 2014
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St. Petersburg HOTELS Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. hhhhh Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. hhhhh Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. hhhhh W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms. hhhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. hhhh AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. hhh
getting there There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 65), and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport. 66 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
One of the symbolic restaurants of the capital «Noev kovcheg» (Noah's Ark) is quite popular for over 15 years.
Countryside estate Arkhangelskoe Exhibition
Exhibition
Moscow’s aristocracy and the art of France
This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is a wonderful monument of Russian culture from the end of the XVIII to the beginning of the XIX century. The buildings around the estate are perfect representatives of neoclassical architecture with sweeping terraces and ionic-pillared arcades. The gardens and terraces are bedecked with architectural décor and marble sculptures, the Caprice miniature palace, the Temple to Catherine II and pavilions. On the Eastern part you will find the Church of Archangel Michael, the Holy Gate as well as other striking constructions. Visitors can cast their eyes upon a splendid collection of paintings, drawings, sculptures and pieces of applied art. Works of such brilliant painters as Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, Antoon van Dyck, François Boucher, Robert Hue, Pietro Antonio Rotari - just to name a few – are a pure delight for any art aficionado. But perhaps the most prized possession of the estate is its superb collection of rare books, which consists of more than 16,000 volumes of Russian and Western European pieces of the XVI-XIX centuries. Spring or summer, winter or autumn – Arkhangelskoe is breathtaking in any season. On a sunny winter day it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride through
Classical French art from the 18th and 19th centuries
the fresh crispy snow. But you don’t have to worry about getting cold as there’s plenty of stalls selling hot drinks and food. In the summer, the blooming formal gardens offer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside and are dotted with neo-classical sculptures and hidden summer pavilions perfect for any amorous getaway. The forested area leading to the small river is where Pushkin, Gertsen and Karamzin once enjoyed going for a lazy stroll. Just like back in the olden days of Russian emperors and nobility, now, once again, music can be heard all throughout the estate. Classical music concerts “Autumn Divertimento in Arkhangelskoe” are held here and the arrival of summer means that it’s time for the open air jazz music festival Usadba Jazz. It may not be the easiest place to get to but if you’re in Moscow and you’ve seen all there is to see in the or are tired of the overcrowded city parks, Arkhangelskoe Museum Estate is definitely worth a visit! Getting there: buses 549, 541 run from the Tushinskaya metro station to the Arkhangelskoye stop, minibuses 151 runs to the Sanatorium stop; bus 524 or minibus 24 run to the Sanatorium stop. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open.
+7 495 797 54 09, +7 495 363 13 75 www.arhangelskoe.su