Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Moscow February - March 2015
More than 11 years in Russia!
inyourpocket.com N°37
Poking around Pokrovka A stroll through Moscow’s past
Is it Spring yet?!
Holidays to help you beat the cold
Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
4
In the News
5
Arrival & Getting Around
6
Public transport
City Basics
8
Language
9
Culture & Events 10 Concerts 10 Russian rock 12 Exhibitions 13 Sport 15
Features
What to see 39 Moscow Theatre life 16 The Kremlin 39 Celebrating Russia’s winter 18 Churches and monasteries 40 Russian women 21 Ride an icebreaker 41 Pokrovka 24 Museums 41 Hidden museums 46 Russian icons 42 Murmansk 60 Parks and gardens 42 26 Russian cuisine 27 Bring on the bliny 32
Artistic places Interview with concierge
50
Nightlife
Shopping Shopping centres Russian souvenirs
51 51 52
Business directory
53
Where to eat
36
Dance and drink the night away
43
Where to stay 48
Expat & Lifestyle 54 The Expat Experience Column: Sanctions Column: Russian hospitality
55 56 57
St. Petersburg
58
Visit the Northern capital
Maps & Index City map Street index Metro map www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
62 66 67 February - March 2015
3
Foreword Unlike in Western Europe, where February and March can be a bit of a letdown after the festive season, the winter months in Russia are laden with promise. It might be still very cold in Moscow, but Russians start to celebrate the end of winter even if spring still seems a long way off. During Maslenitsa week (February 16th – 22th) you eat as many bliny (pancakes) as your constitution will allow, especially if you are storing up the carbs for Lent, which this year runs through to the second week of April. Maslenitsa attracts young and old alike, and is an opportunity to enjoy the vividness of tradition in modern Russian life. Burning Maslenitsa dolls, sleigh riding for the kids, traditional costumes, music and delicious food, all accompanied by the warmth of a winter sun, will make you fall in love with Russia all over again. But it is not only Maslenitsa that marks the start of spring according to Russians. The farewell to Father Frost is also heralded by a series of holidays, beginning on February 23rd, the Defender of the Fatherland Day, when men receive gifts and kudos for their grit and heroism, whether they have ever pulled on a pair of army boots or not. This, of course, turns out to be only a foretaste to March 8th, when you should treat the ladies around you as you never did before! Don’t forget to reserve a table in one of Moscow’s romantic restaurants, this day is much more important than St. Valentine’s, although that holiday is also embraced by many young Russians. All these days off are an ideal opportunity to leave Moscow for a breath of fresh air, and in this issue we present an extremely remote option, far away from the bustle of daily life, perfect for those who like to experience how vast Russia is. Read about the fascinating Murmansk region, where Golden Globe winner ‘Leviathan’ was filmed, on page 60. Too far? There are also many exciting things to do in Moscow itself, so turn to page 46 for our feature on hidden museums, inspiring little gems that you may never have visited before. The strollers among you should read about the historical Pokrovka district on page 24, a picturesque, trendy neighbourhood all too often neglected by tourists. Take Moscow In Your Pocket with you, and let’s enjoy winter while celebrating spring around the corner! Wabke Waaijer, Russia In Your Pocket.
E S S E N TI A L
Moscow In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com General Manager Chris Gilbert, chris.gilbert@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler, Luc Jones, Bauke van der Meer Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 37, 01.02.2015, 60 000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.
Cover story Depicted here is the 1937 landmark statue Rabochy i Kolkhoznitsa or Worker and Kolkhoz Woman, a monumental (24.5 m high) piece of Socialist-Realist symbolism, located just outside of the Russian Exhibition Centre in Moscow.
About IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA
LATVIA LITHUANIA
NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND
BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM
POLAND UKRAINE
GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA
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HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE
DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA
4 Moscow In Your Pocket
Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently carrying out a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to: we will rolling out the new inyourpocket.com throughout February and March. In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). moscow.inyourpocket.com
In the News Space-age housing 1920s style
New attractions at Arkhangelskoe
The Melnikov House, two white cylinders of constructivist concrete that crash-landed into a side street just off the Arbat, is one of Moscow’s iconic modernist buildings. Built as a vision of the future in the late 1920s, its interior has a surprisingly ‘space age’ feel, albeit the space age of silent sci-fi movies. For decades its doors have been closed to the public but now, for a brief period before repair work starts, five lucky visitors a day can explore Konstantin Melnikov’s masterpiece. Getting in isn’t entirely straightforward. Prebooking is essential via the Shchushev Architecture Museum and slots for February and March went on sale back on January 12. But for those who can snag a spot on the tour, it’s a 300-ruble ticket to a unique building and an exhibition featuring more than 5,000 works and artefacts relating to Melnikov’s career as an avant-garde architect and artist. For pre-booking see www.muar.ru and call (+7) 495 697 80 37.
Arkhangelskoe, one of the most impressive aristocratic retreats on the edge of Moscow, has added two big new attractions for the new season in 2015. The Hall of Antiquities and the Hubert Robert Salon form part of the main suite of the late 18th-century palace and, now fully restored, are an ideal showcase for more of the estate’s impressive collection of fine arts. The Hall of Antiquities is characteristic of the residential quarters of 18th and 19th century noblemen; today it is also home to the collection of relics that Prince Yusupov collected from Pompeii and an assortment of paintings by French and Italian masters. The display also includes many fine examples of decorative art. The Robert Salon, designed to resemble a belvedere in a park, is devoted to the work of French painter Hubert Robert. As well as his landscapes, the walls are decorated with a painted fresco of birds in flight and a marble sculpture of Cupid plucking his bow from the club of Hercules. See for more information www.arhangelskoe.su.
Immersive exhibitions at Artplay Claustrophobia It might seem like a nightmare straight out of 1984, but struggling to find a way out of a locked room is fast becoming one of Moscow’s hottest entertainment tickets. The Claustrophobia Quest challenges guests to solve ingenious mental puzzles and work out how to escape from a variety of themed rooms. It’s a bit like an intellectual version of the classic TV show Fort Boyard, with groups of up to four players seeking a way out from haunted houses, nuclear bunkers or medieval dungeons, among many choices. Although the settings are designed for the Russian market, the challenges are non-verbal, making them accessible to anyone. The key thing is being able to communicate with team-mates to unlock the door and escape before the time runs out. For more information see www.phobia.ru. Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.
Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 60 000 экз. No37. 01.02.2015
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Following the success of blockbuster multimedia shows like the hugely popular Van Gogh exhibition, Moscow’s Artplay complex is set to open the country’s biggest multimedia space in February. The arts centre will unveil two separates spaces with a combined area of more than 4,000 square metres, enabling it to present huge, immersive presentations of great masterpieces on a combination of giant screens and accompanied by unexpected audio-visual effects and music relating to the images on display. The debut events, which run from February 13, tackle two contrasting themes. The first, a guaranteed hit, looks at the French Impressionist movement. ‘From Monet to Cezanne’ launches a hugely detailed exploration some of the best-loved works of art ever painted. From the late 19th century, the focus switches to the early 20th in ‘The Great Modernists’, a partner show that helps the viewer navigate the turbulent waters of a rapidly changing artistic environment dominated by painters like Munch, Klimt and Malevich. The Artplay complex is on Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya Ulitsa, close to Kurskaya and Chkalovskaya metro stations. The new exhibition space opens on February 13 and the opening shows are set to run until May 31. Visit www.artplay.ru for more information. February - March 2015
5
Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Home to over 12 million people, Moscow has a public transportation that has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!
Aeroexpress Trains All international airports in Moscow have a fast train connection to the capital’s city centre. All? Yes, all! Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website where you can purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You can buy an electronic ticket from the official website www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view train timetables. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).
6 Moscow In Your Pocket
Arriving by plane Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.
Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and whether you are coming from east or west, north or south, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night. Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www. kazanskiy.railclient.ru. Kievsky Station Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru. Kursky Station For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www. kursky-vokzal.ru. Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www. leningradskiy.railclient.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Getting Around Paveletsky Station For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy. railclient.ru. Rizhsky Station Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru. Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.
Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 50Rbl. On the more modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages, however, it is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so if you aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 50Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!
Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.
Buying train tickets Buying train tickets at the station For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you don’t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable. Don’t forget they also require your passport to sell you a ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and reservation belongs to you). Buying train tickets online Using the website of the Russian railways eng.rzd.ru comes in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking through online retailers such as www.poezda.net, www. tutu.ru, www.trainsrussia.com and www.poezdmegapolis.ru but you might need a login and a password.
Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets February - March 2015
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City Basics Be on guard! Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.
Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Climate
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Winters in Russia are fierce and February is typically one of the coldest months of the year, with temperatures sometimes getting as low as -20, so wrap up warm and don’t forget your thick socks and warm gloves! Layers are usually the most practical. Only in the end of March does the city really start to thaw so until then expect a lot of ice and snow in the streets and minuses on the thermometer.
Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)
8 Moscow In Your Pocket
Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)
Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.
Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.
Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
Post Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Language useful phrases Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Help! I need some help I don't want
Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts! Bolno! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko? What time is it? Katory chas? Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol
Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль
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pocket dictionary: BLIN Bliny are the essential Russian snack and during the week of maslenitsa (the period before lent) you will see them everywhere. In pagan times they were seen as symbolic of the sun amongst Slavic people and so have always played an important role in Russian traditions. The word itself is believed to come from the old Slavic word ‘mlin’ meaning ‘to mill’ which is of course what you need to do to make flour that is the core ingredient of bliny or their mini versions blinchiki. The word blin is also often blurted out in the way that English speakers may say ‘oh sugar’ instead of, well we’ll leave you to guess what. So the next time you hear someone exclaiming ‘ai blin‘! rest assured they’re probably not getting angry about their pancakes.
alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж
A B V G D E YO ZH
З И Й К Л М Н О
Z I Y K L M N O
П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц
P R S T U F KH TS
Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь
CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound
February - March 2015
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Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.
concert halls and clubs Crocus City Hall QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru. Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru. Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. RAY JUST Arena QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru. SK Olimpisky QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.
theatres Bolshoi Theatre QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru. Helikon-Opera QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Maly Theatre QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK Mayakovsky Theatre QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. Moon Theatre QD-5, Ul. Malaya Ordynka 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 13 17, www.lunatheatre.ru. Moscow English Theatre Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details. Natalia Sats children’s Music Theatre QPr. Vernadskogo 5, MUniversitet, tel. (+7) 495 930 70 21, (+7) 965 302 27 80, www.teatr-sats.ru. 10 Moscow In Your Pocket
Sovremennik Theatre QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru. Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru. Taganka Theatre QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.
FEBRUARY events 08.02 Sunday 20:00 Yann Tiersen In Russia Yann Tiersen is best known and loved for his music for the ‘Amelie’ soundtrack - but it would be wrong to pigeonhole him purely as a film composer. In reality the Frenchman’s work spans a wide range of genres. Adept on a range of instruments as well as being an accomplished composer, Tiersen’s output runs the gamut from folktronica to classical minimalism, from post-rock to old-school indie. This concert, part of a tour in support of his recent album ‘Infinity’, is likely to focus more on the latter; the evidence of that disc suggests that, for the time being, Tiersen’s creative inspiration is finding its outlet in vocals and guitars rather than elaborate instrumentation.QYotaspace (Glavclub), Ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky pr., tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.yanntiersen.bzh. 1,900 - 5,000Rbl. 12.02 Thursday 20:00 Alex Clare Sometimes life gives out a second chance, as Alex Clare’s career proves. In 2012, following the underwhelming performance of his debut album, he was working as an estate agent and putting dreams of stardom behind him. Then the fates intervened: one of his songs was picked up for a Microsoft ad and almost overnight the forgotten man became a hot ticket. Last year’s follow-up release ‘Three Hearts’ overcame some sniffy reviews to sell well in Europe and his role in the updated version of Jeff Wells’ ‘War of the Worlds’ also went down well. Can he take full advantage of his professional reprieve and string together a lasting career, or is this the last gasp of a limited talent? Hear for yourself at Yotaspace.QYotaspace (Glavclub), Ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky pr., tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.yotaspace.ru. Tickets 1,800 - 5,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 14.02 Saturday 20:00 Garik Sukachov: My Vysotsky Eventually every legend of the Russian music scene has to square up with Vladimir Vysotsky, the great bard singer. Vysotsky was a kind of Soviet Dylan; a man with a guitar and a message that could not be silenced. Similarly his music has been colossally influential on subsequent generations of artists, and his songbook has been covered by pretty much any serious (and many not-so-serious) singers ever since. Garik Sukhachev was one of the enfants terribles of the rock scene of the late Soviet era before his 90s band Neprikaсayemye became one of the biggest act of the postCommunist years. Last year he recorded a Vysotsky tribute album, featuring 13 songs. Many have been performed on stage before, but this concert is the first time they have all appeared together.QRay just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.garik. su/albums. Tickets 2,300 - 1,500Rbl.
Buying concert tickets Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets and some venues such as the Bolshoi Theatre also sell tickets online. There are also a number of online services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets online and most of them offer delivery anywhere in the city for an additional fee. Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers their event listings in English. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V). Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).
17.02 Tuesday 20:00 Laura Pausini One of the more unexpected pleasures for Anglophone music lovers in Moscow is the wide range of Europop acts that continue to tour here. Russians, unlike their Englishspeaking contemporaries, have never been daunted by listening to songs in foreign languages and that means a wealth of artists from France, Germany and, in this case, Italy, have achieved success here. Laura Pausini wraps up a two-year World Tour that marks 20 years since her breakthrough triumph at the Sanremo festival; in that time she’s performed with the likes of Kylie Minogue, Andrea Bocelli and Charles Aznavour, bringing her trademark style to a host of ballads and love songs. Despite her fame on the continent, though, she has seldom managed to attract English-speaking audiences: her one English-language release struggled for sales.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. laurapausini.com. Tickets 2,000 - 6,000Rbl.
23.02 Monday 19:00 Lyube Defenders of the Fatherland Day is one of Russia’s most patriotic celebrations, so what better way to spend it than in concert with President Putin’s favourite band? The group, renowned for its rousing ditties inspired by Russia’s military power, is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, and at a time when popular patriotism is at a rare peak in the country it’s a fair bet there will be plenty of airtime devoted to their music. Priding themselves on unpretentious lyrics that speak to the hard of those who have served in Russia’s armed forces, the band blends rock and folk motifs, the band moved away from its military image with the release of 2009’s ‘Our People’, but in the current political climate it’s likely that this gig will have them back at their patriotic best.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lubeh. matvey.ru. Tickets 900 - 14,000Rbl.
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February - March 2015
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Culture & Events russian rock 20.03 Friday 20:00 Vezhlivy Otkaz
Vezhlivy Otkaz have spent three decades treading the more remote byways of contemporary avant-garde rock, building up a cult following for their artsy, jazzinflected sound. These days they’re taking life a bit easier - they’ve not released a new album since 2010’s ‘Gusi-Lebedi’ (Geese and Swans), and have focused on a diverse range of solo projects including a series of songs to commemorate the bicentenary of the battles with Napoleon in 1812. Back in harness to celebrate their 30th anniversary, this gig is a rare arena show for a band more commonly found in smaller venues, straddling the barriers between rock, jazz and contemporary classical.QYotaspace (Glavclub), Ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky pr., tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.otkaz.ru. Tickets 100 - 2,500Rbl. 21.03 Saturday 19:00 Chaif
Another long-serving band celebrates its 30th birthday this year, but if Vezhlivy Otkaz’s artsy Petersburg sound represents Russia’s intelligentsia, the old-school blue-collar rock of Chaif! comes straight from the factories of the Urals. And the band’s roots in Sverdlovsk, as Yekaterinburg was still known when Vladimir Shakhrin and the boys first strummed a chord, are the inspiration for the anniversary show at Olimpisky. The evening promises a run-down of greatest hits and an authentic singalong for fans of one of Russia’s most enduringly popular acts; it might not be the high of fashion, but for a bit of raucous good fun it’s hard to beat.QSK Olimpisky (SKO), Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.otkaz.ru. 1,000 - 8,000Rbl. 12 Moscow In Your Pocket
march events 01.03 Sunday 20:00 De Phazz This German cutting-edge jazz group are frequent visitors to Moscow, and their 2011 New Year’s Eve gig at 16 Tons was one of the most talked about events of that winter. But the appeal of this band never gets stale: founder and producer Pit Baumgartner constantly rotates the line-up of musicians with each passing album, guaranteeing an ever-evolving sound that encapsulates the band’s determination to deliver futuristic jazz at every turn. The most recent release, 2013’s ‘Naïve’, was something of a Greatest Hits affair, reworking several popular classics into mellower, more jazzy versions. For a smooth evening of laid-back lounge, De Phazz is hard to beat.QYotaspace (Glavclub), Ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky pr., tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.dephazz.com/. Tickets 2,000 - 10,000Rbl.
14.03 Saturday 19:00 Leonid Agutin The presenter of the Russian edition of ‘The Voice’ is one of the most influential figures in the country’s pop music scene and his live shows are renowned for a glittering cast of special guests. As one of the most popular singer-songwriters on the Russian pop scene, Leonid Agutin boasts an extensive back catalogue of hits; although surprisingly his one big international release, ‘Cosmopolitan Life’ in collaboration with Al di Meola, was largely overlooked in Russia despite selling well around the world. Much of the music in tonight’s show is to be performed by Esperanto, Agutin’s latest group of prodigies, and while the list of guest stars is a closely guarded secret it is likely to an impressive assortment of chart-toppers.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. agutin.com. Tickets 1,200 - 18,000Rbl.
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Culture & Events Exhibitions Through 01.03 Sunday PROzavod
Russia’s rapid industrialization in the early 20th century transformed every facet of the country - including its artistic life. Magazines like ‘Constructing the USSR’ sent out the leading photographers of the day to collect dramatic images of vast projects - huge skeletal buildings going up, roads and railways spreading out across the country. These pictorial odes to the modern age forged the reputations of several of the great photographers of the pre-war years, before the lens was refocused by some of the independent cameramen of the 70s and 80s stagnation era. This comprehensive exhibition explores how industry moved from avant-garde to decadence over the course of a century, and looks at the role of industrial art in a modern age when many of Moscow’s factories are turning into cultural powerhouses.QC-4, Brothers Lumiere Center of Photography, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. Tue - Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat - Sun 12:00 - 22:00, Mon closed. Admission 190 - 350Rbl. Through 08.03 Sunday Classical French Art at Arkhangelskoe Imperial Russia’s love affair with all things French is well-known: time was when fashion dictated even princely underwear should be sent to France to be laundered. But the legacy of that entente cordiale offers more than mere Parisian pampering, as a blockbuster new art show at Arkhangelskoe is out to prove. The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolay was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection of more than 100 works from www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gerard to Russian audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoe show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries.QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www. arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. AUW Through 12.04 Sunday The Magic of the Body The Tretyakov Gallery continues its exploration of the nude with an exhibition devoted to the works of 20th century artists. The wide-ranging collection surveys many different approaches to drawing and painting a nude model, ranging from the dream-like beauty of Zinaida Serebryakova to the deliberate coarseness of the artists from the ‘Jack of Diamonds’ school, with its emphasis on brute force and physical strength. Representatives of Russian Realist art and the cult of physical fitness promoted by the USSR also feature in this large-scale retrospective that delves deep into the vast storerooms of the largest collection of Russian art.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. Through 12.04 Sunday The Silver East The treasures of Central Asia go on display at Tsaritsyno with a glittering display of jewelry from Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Throughout this region, made wealthy by the trade routes linking east and west, master craftsmen prided themselves on creating intricate pieces full of tiny parts, matching the colorful and elaborate national costumes of these countries. Regional variations can also be seen; Kyrgyz jewelers tend to a simpler, more archaic style while Turkmen designs often have a monumental shape. The collection brings about 150 samples for 19th and early 20th century work, showing off the region’s traditions prior to the interruption of creative life brought by the 1917 Revolution.QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsynomuseum.ru. Admission 80 - 350Rbl. February - March 2015
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Culture & Events Traditional craft from past to present Painted lacquer snuffboxes became hugely fashionable in the late 18th century, and quickly evolved into a celebration of traditional Russian cultural themes. The dark backgrounds gave rise to a host of brightly-colored fairytale scenes, some inspired by folk tales, others by literary classics. It’s a snapshot of the Russian landscape, its dense forests, mighty rivers and mythical lost cities, and it’s a tradition which survived the Soviet era without being pressed into propaganda service. Russian masters of lacquer painting have shaped the development of this medium all over the world. To celebrate this rich tradition, the All-Russian Decorative Art Museum is staging a special exhibition. More than 300 works by masters from Palekh, Fedoskino, Mstyora and Kholui form the basis of the display, which includes several items never seen before by the general public. An important part of the show focuses on contemporary lacquerwork, showing how this tradition continues to thrive and develop in the 21st century. QC-1, AllRussian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www. vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. 31.01 Saturday - 28.02 Saturday Notation at Fabrika The Fabrika art centre celebrates its 10th anniversary with a musicallythemed exhibition, drawing art out of musical notation. Attempting to pin down the ephemeral nature of music in the permanence of visual art is a challenge that curators Sergei Khachaturov and Assi Philippi have met with what they describe as the ‘rustling of real and virtual scores’. Exploring the aesthetics and symbolism of stave, clef and quaver, a host of artists from the Russian avant-garde and contemporary traditions turn viewers into listeners and vice versa with a range of works from traditional sculpture and painting to multi-media installations.Q Fabrika art centre, Perevedenovsky per. 18, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 265 39 26, www.fabrikacci.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free. 14 Moscow In Your Pocket
01.02 Sunday - 31.12 Thursday Samovars of the 18th-20th centuries Few things are as redolent of Russia as a piping hot samovar steaming away at the table, dispensing limitless hot water for cups of tea. This exhibition brings many of the highlights of the Lobanov family collection, covering the many shapes and sizes of samovar that have been developed over the years including the famous ‘cockerel’ design that won a gold medal at the 1873 World Expo in Vienna. There are also a few celebrity urns. Perhaps the most intriguing is the samovar set that the future Tsar Nikolai II was supposed to present to the Emperor of Japan, while other figures from Russian history including Alexander Blok, Vera Komissarzhevskaya and Denis Davydov also feature in this extensive survey of the samovar.QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat - Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. 26.02 Thursday - 12.04 Sunday David LaChapelle He’s been called the Fellini of photography and his career has seen him taking portraits of generations of celebs since the 1980s. David LaChapelle started out working for Andy Warhol’s ‘Interview’ magazine, where he developed the high-octane hyperrealism that has become his trademark. But aside from the glitz and glamour of portrait work, LaChapelle also has a keen interest in art history, often sneaking references to past classics into his prints or using them to share a social message. This show at Moscow’s Multimedia Art Museum is one of the first events of 2015’s Fashion and Style in Photography biennale. QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
David LaChapelle, 2014
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Sport
Hockey season hots up The KHL play-offs get underway at the end of February with two of Moscow’s ice hockey teams gunning for glory in the quest for the Gagarin Cup. CSKA look to have the best chance; after several years among the also-rans, the most successful club team in hockey history has a competitive roster once again and is powering through its regular season campaign. The Army Men were so impressive that they secured a play-off spot before the Christmas decorations came down, inspired by a run of 19 wins in 20 games that recalled the all-conquering swagger of their Soviet antecedents in the 70s and 80s. This season’s team, under the guidance of head coach Dmitry Kvartalnov, has been led by Alexander Radulov, the KHL’s leading point scorer at the time of writing. Always a volatile talent, Radulov’s career has been a mixture of stunning goals (check out his 2009 World Championship winner) and ill-disciplined disasters (remember his needless and damaging penalties during the Olympic defeat to the USA last year). Under Kvartalnov, though, he seems to be reveling in the chance to play the high-tempo, passionate hockey that he thrives upon, even if he still occasionally picks up a ban for badmouthing the officials. Other players to watch for include Stephane da Costa, the first Frenchman to play in the KHL, and Evgeny Artyukhin, a rugged ‘love-to-hate’ kind of forward whose contribution is measured less in goals and assists and more in his ability to intimidate opponents. It all adds up to potent attacking force that is capable of going all the way this year and winning its first title since 1989, a fitting tribute to coaching legend Viktor Tikhonov who died earlier this season.
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Across town Dynamo will still fancy its chances despite a slightly underpowered campaign. The Blue-and-Whites were regular season champs last time around following back-to-back Gagarin Cup triumphs in 2012 and 2013. That success saw Oleg Znarok promoted to coach team Russia and his long-serving assistant Harijs Vitolins has needed a little time to adjust to life in the hot seat. This is a team without stars; Vitolins has maintained the Znarok tradition of well-drilled, hard-working line-ups that tend to be resilient, hard to score on and capable of blunting the liveliest opponent. If defenses win championships, Dynamo can hope to be in the frame as the post season gets underway. The play-offs begin on Feb. 27 and 28 with CSKA almost certain to be seeded at home in those games and Dynamo likely to start with home ice advantage as well. There’s a chance to check out both teams as the regular season draws to a close – the pair face off at CSKA’s Leningradsky Prospekt home on February 15 at 17:30. For full fixture details visit en.khl.ru.
Belgian test in Europa League Dynamo Moscow are the city’s sole survivors in European competition after powering through the group stage in style to reach the last 32 of the Europa League. The Blueand-Whites will face Anderlecht in the knock-out phase, traveling to Brussels on February 19 before staging the return leg at Arena Khimki on the 26th. Tickets should be available via the club website, www.fcdynamo.ru, from early February. In the Russian Premier League, which is scheduled to restart on March 7, CSKA and Dynamo are both in pursuit of runaway leader Zenit St. Petersburg. Improving Lokomotiv are gunning for a European spot after the arrival of experienced Montenegrin head coach Miodrag Bozevic while Spartak remain an enigma, the more so after reportedly parting company with big summer signing Roman Shirokov. At the foot of the table Torpedo face a battle to avoid returning to the second tier but will be hoping for a return to their traditional Streltsov Stadium home as they fight for the points to keep them up. Fixture details have yet to be confirmed for the second half of the campaign; information will appear in due course at www.rfpl.org. February - March 2015
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Features
Alexander Borisovich Titel, Artistic Director and Chief Director of Opera in the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre
Moscow is rightly renowned for its wealth of theatres, so if the snow and slush are starting to get you down, why not take refuge from the cold and warm your cultural cockles with an evening of high drama. Should you be bored of the Bolshoi, or think the MKhAT is old hat, you may want to take a look at a couple of other venues on offer, one of them bang in the centre, the other out towards Moscow State University. Music, Maestro!
in London for the opera Oscar: the first ever international opera award for best opera theatre. The Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with wide open spaces and a gorgeous museum showing the history of the theatre, the costumes used in the performances staged there, and the spectacular stage sets. As if classical music lovers needed an extra reason to visit the world famous Stanislavskiy Theater, on February 18, 19, 21 and 22 the repertoire will feature the great opera masterpiece “Khovanshchina” of the celebrated Russian composer - a national treasure, really – Modest Mussorgsky for the very time in its history. Mussorgsky began composing this “national musical drama”, as he often referred to it, at the relatively young age of 33 and never managed to complete it before his death, though he worked on it during 9 long years. Emotions that are characteristic of youth remarkably intertwine with the deep ponderation of a more wise and mature soul in “Khovanshchina”. In a grandiose historical fresco, the composer enriches real historical events and people with those he concocted himself. The aim is not only to rationalize but also to feel, live and emotionally undergo the epoch that saw one of the greatest schisms in Russia’s history.
STANISLAVSKY music THEATRE and Khovanshchina Dating back to 1918-1919, the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the largest and most successful theatres of Russia. The opera and ballet performances are well known to Moscow audiences, and attract more and more international visitors. The theatre takes part in many international projects and is nominated every year for the Golden Mask national theatre award. In 2013 the theatre was even nominated
Konstantin Stanislavsky and Vladimir Nemirovich-Danchenko
16 Moscow In Your Pocket
Two of the most prominent masters of Russian musical theater were in charge of the opera’s epic production: Alexander Lazarev, an outstanding conductor, and Alexander Titel, one of the Russian titans who specializes in directing historic operas. These men were the ones who put on Mussorgky’s “Boris Godunov” and S.S. Prokofiev’s “War and Peace”. In 2012, their production of “War and Peace” became one of Moscow’s most important opera events. Titel and Lazarev have a long creative history with one another – together they worked on N.A. RimskiyKorsakov’s “The Night Before Christmas” and P.I. Tchaikovsky’s “The Enchantress”. Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.
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Features
NATALIA SATS children’s MUSIC TheatrE AND Oliver twist Once upon a time, there was little girl Natasha. Her mother was a singer and her dad was a very famous composer. When that little girl grew up, she set out to present the classics in a way that made them accessible to children. Now, thanks to this little girl, there’s a very special place in Moscow for young theater lovers and that place is The Natalia Sats Children’s Music Theatre specializing in opera, ballet and dramatic productions for children. The world’s first professional theatre for children, it is famous worldwide as the birthplace of Sergei Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf. The theatre opened its doors to the young ones back in 1965 and by 1979 the Children’s Music Theatre moved into the Palace of Children’s Opera, which was designed especially for the company. To celebrate and kick off its new chapter, the theatre put on Puccini’s “Madame Butterfly” which, by the way, was hugely successful in Albany, New York as part of a 1986 cultural exchange of theatre troupes. And it’s very hard to miss as it stands out from all other theatres in town thanks to the “bluebird of happiness” the theatre’s symbol and a true monument to the best of constructivist architecture – donning the roof. Once inside, children will never want to leave this palace of costumed characters, real birds singing in the aviary, decorative fish swimming in the aquariums and story-books painted on the walls in beautiful murals. Last November was a very magical time for the theatre as it celebrated the 50th anniversary of its very first performance (M. Krasev’s Morozko) which took place on November 21st, 1965. A very happy belated 50th birthday! In these 50 years, the Sats theatre not only delighted children at home but also abroad, in countries such as Belgium, Austria and former Yugoslavia. Having such a rich past, the Sats theatre has a lot to offer in the present, too! Nowadays, the theatre stages approxiwww.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
mately 30 operas and ballets a year. Natalia Sats’ educational philosophy is reflected in the repertoire and, alongside new versions of fairytales such as Puss in Boots, Snow White and The Frog Princess, there are also productions of “adult” operas like Madama Butterfly and Eugene Onegin, as well as more contemporary ballets like the Snow Maiden. Fine, young talents work in the theatre and often go on to achieve real fame after their time at the Sats theatre. One of the newest and most exciting additions to the repertoire is a take on one of Charles Dickens’ most prominent works, Oliver Twist! In the musical “The Life and Extraordinary Adventures of Oliver Twist” we will once again meet Oliver, the charming little rascal from London and his buddies. For those who are not too familiar with the plot, the story follows an orphan, Oliver Twist, who endures a miserable existence in a workhouse and then is placed with an undertaker. Not keen on being constrained, he soon escapes and travels to London where he meets the Artful Dodger, leader of a gang of juvenile pickpockets. That’s where naïvely unaware of their unlawful activities, Oliver is led to the lair of their elderly criminal trainer Fagin… His adventures will combine the best of Natalia Sats’ traditions with modern day broadway and theatre trends. Alexander Tchaikovsky was responsible for the music and children with serious theatrical training act out the roles of Oliver and his little partners in crime. Kids and adults alike would be missing out on first class entertainment if they don”t make it to this production! NatalIa Sats CHILDREN’s Music Theatre QPr. Vernadskogo 5, MUniversitet, tel. (+7) 495 930 70 21, (+7) 965 302 27 80, www.teatr-sats.ru. February - March 2015
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Culture & Events
CELEBRATING RUSSIA‘S WINTER As you still reel from the festive onslaught of Christmas, New Year, Christmas again - oh, and Old New Year - Russia steps in with the jab, uppercut and haymaker of Maslenitsa, Defender’s Day and Women’s Day. Read our guide to the pre-Spring holiday season, and you may not need to throw in the towel. Seconds out, round two... 18 Moscow In Your Pocket
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Features February is the coldest month in Russia, and after three or four months of dark days and cloudy weather, we all need a reason to celebrate. Fortunately in Russia there are plenty of reasons to gather together with friends and celebrate life in general. The season kicks off in romantic style with Valentine’s Day, a time for couples to celebrate their love and for singles to make the most of being single. This is followed nine days later by Defender of the Fatherland day, a great excuse for the girls to celebrate the courage and fearlessness of their man, and for the lads to get together and just celebrate being blokes with vodka, beer and the sorts of stories they wouldn’t dare tell the girls, brave as they are. If and when you survive these two celebrations, it’s time to kick back and relax with a pancake or five through the week of Maslenitsa, and once this marathon effort is over, you’re ready for The Big One – International Women’s Day. Roses are red, violets are blue, if you don’t buy her flowers, that’s the end of you…
Defender of the Fatherland Day Defender of the Fatherland Day (it sounds just as longwinded in Russian) was originally a holiday to commemorate the formation of the Red Army in 1918, and is still celebrated in many former Soviet republics. In 1995 it became known as the Day of the Military Glory of Russia, during a trend for changing Soviet names, although it’s most commonly known simply as Men’s Day. Although technically it is still a military holiday, it’s also a public holiday, so all men are celebrated, whether they’ve ever worn khaki or not, and has in effect become the male counterpart (or perhaps pale shadow) of International Women’s Day. February 23rd is therefore accompanied by a host of beer and other alcoholrelated festivals to help the day go with a bang.
Russian Wide Maslenitsa in Pskov Located just a few hours southwest of St. Petersburg, near the Estonian border, Pskov is a great place to get away from the city for a day, breathe some fresh air and enjoy a walk back in time to mediaeval Russia. Dotted all over the city are squat little domed churches, most dating from the 15th and 16th century, and the oldest continually functioning monastery, the Monastery of the Caves, can also be found here. Many features peculiar to Russian architecture originate in Pskov, and considering the violence to which the city has been subjected over the centuries, it is astonishing that so much of it remains. The crown jewel of the city is and always has been the Kremlin, locally known as the Krom. In its 1000-plus years, the Krom has been besieged 42 times, attacked by Teutonic knights, Muscovites and Poles, but it was stormed only twice until the modern era when German forces from both World Wars occupied the city. Given the strength of its defences, it isn’t surprising that culture and the arts flourished within the city. Masons, icon painters and writers all developed and refined their crafts here, and Pushkin himself spent considerable time writing on his family’s estate just outside the city. Steeped in history and rich in tradition and culture, there’s no better place to experience the particularly Russian holiday of Maslenitsa than Pskov. Festivities during Maslenitsa usually include a bustling crafts fair, folk songs and dances, troika-racing through the snow, ice sculptures, pole-climbing displays of strength and virility by the gents, doll-making from the ladies and did we mention bliny? Oh, the bliny. Stacks and stacks of pancakes bought, sold and devoured, which culminate in a contest whereby participants have 10 minutes to prepare the largest number of blini their hot little frying pans can handle. The delectable results are then auctioned off to benefit the Church of the Holy Martyr of Faith, Hope and Charity. Don’t forget to stay for the burning of Kostroma and cheer on the end of winter! GETTING THERE: Train number 10 to Pskov departs daily from Moscow at 16:55 from Leningradsky Vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya). Buses depart on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 20:00 from Tushinskaya bus station (metro Tushinskaya). A bus ticket to Pskov costs around 1000Rbl. With the exception of Tuesdays and Sundays, you can fly from Moscow to Pskov from Domodedovo Airport. Various airlines fly between the two cities and an average ticket costs between 4000-6000Rbl.
Maslenitsa Maslenitsa is an ancient pagan festival which has been absorbed into Orthodox tradition and celebrates the end of winter and the arrival of spring. Running from February 16th to the 22nd, and known in other countries as Mardi Gras or Carnival, In Russia it celebrates the last week before Lent with a massive, knock-down drag-out pancake-fest designed to carb load the faithful in preparation for 40 days of abstinence. On the last day of Maslenitsa, there’s usually a union of pagan and Christian traditions when a huge effigy - representing winter – is set ablaze with true mediaeval pyromaniac glee. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
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Features Wait For Me by Konstantin Simonov Wait for me, and I’ll come back! Wait with all you’ve got! Wait, when dreary yellow rains Tell you, you should not. Wait when snow is falling fast, Wait when summer’s hot, Wait when yesterdays are past, Others are forgot. Wait, when from that far-off place, Letters don’t arrive. Wait, when those with whom you wait Doubt if I’m alive. Wait for me, and I’ll come back! Wait in patience yet When they tell you off by heart That you should forget. Even when my dearest ones Say that I am lost, Even when my friends give up, Sit and count the cost, Drink a glass of bitter wine To the fallen friend Wait! And do not drink with them! Wait until the end! Wait for me and I’ll come back, Dodging every fate! “What a bit of luck!” they’ll say, Those that did not wait. They will never understand How amidst the strife, By your waiting for me, dear, You had saved my life. How I made it, we shall know, Only you and I. You alone knew how to wait We alone know why! Konstantin Simonov said of his own masterpiece, “There is no special story to ‘Wait for me’. I was just going to war, and the woman I loved was staying behind. And I wrote her a letter in verse.” Yet the words that follow were to be engraved in the hearts of countless Russians during the Great Patriotic War: it was cut out of the paper, copied out, learned by heart, and sent back in letters to wives and sweethearts. Not even originally intended for publication, in the history of Russian poetry it would be hard to find a poem which had such an impact. 20 Moscow In Your Pocket
Valentine’s Day Few countries seem to ooze romance the way Russia does and it is surprising that Valentine’s Day is a relatively recent import. However, it is now widely celebrated and if you intend to go out this Valentine’s, be prepared to book in advance: restaurants are crowded and bars are packed on the night of February 14 as couples dine together to commemorate their love, and singles flock to clubs offering special programmes to bring the lonely, unattached, or just plain frisky together. The traditions are similar to those in other countries, couples give each other flowers, heart-shaped boxes of chocolates, greeting cards, and merry hell if either one forgets. it’s all about love In Russia when it comes to love, dating and letting someone know that you like them, the situation can seem for foreigners, simultaneously complicated and simple. The simple part is that Russia is a very direct culture, people like you to say what you are thinking so asking a stranger out need not be a frightening experience. You can simply approach someone and say ‘mozhnо s vami poznakomitsa?’ Can I make your acquaintance? If they’re not interested then they will tell you something like ‘ostavte menya v pokoe’, essentially meaning, ‘leave me alone!’ And if they’re interested it will be obvious. On the female front, the Russian woman needs constant compliments, she craves the attention that is due her. So when dating you may want to opt for saying something like ‘klassno vyglyadish’ (you look great) or tell her that she’s ‘krasavitsa’ (a real beauty). Women are not expected to be doling out compliments so if you want to show him that you like him, smiling and saying thank you is enough and letting him ‘zaplatit za vsyo‘ (paying for everything), and allowing him to hold the reigns in the choice of where to go and what to do will please him more than enough. Once you are ‘vmeste’ (together) as a ‘para’ (couple) both sides can really get into using those sweet diminutives for names so beloved of Russians. Your boyfriend Alexander will then become Shurik, Sashulya or Sashenka and Olga will become Olichka, Olyushka or Lyolya. Making sweet names for the other usual top Russian names is just as easy. Katya becomes Katyusha, Elena - Lenochka and Tanya Tanyusha. Misha can become Mishanya and perhaps Vladimir Putin gets called Vovchik! If it doesn’t work out you may be hearing the words ‘my dolzhni rastatsa‘ (we need to break up) or the more harsh ‘nasha vstrecha byla oshibkoy‘ (our meeting was a mistake). On the other hand if it’s really ‘lyubov‘ (love) then it’s probably expected that you will be getting married. For a man this is ‘zhenitsa‘, literally getting wifed, while a woman goes behind her man - ‘vykhodit zamuzh‘. And hopefully then you face the happily ever after scenario ‘i zhili oni dolgo i shchastlivo’. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Features Russian Women On March 8, Russia celebrates International Women’s Day. One of Russia’s biggest public holidays, it is second only to New Year and Russians go all out to congratulate their women. It’s impossible to ignore the infectious spirit of this holiday. Beaming men wait with red roses at metro exits and happy couples linger about in the streets. See them drinking champagne, while the first sunshine after many dark winter months warms their hearts and their relationships. Employers would be fools to forget to give gifts to their female staff. Many clubs and restaurants celebrate this special day the evening before, so be sure to mark your calendar and visit one. Women’s Day is has its roots in the (pre)revolution days. It was first celebrated in Russia on the last Sunday of February 1913, in conjunction with the peace movement on the eve of the First World War. The demonstrations marking International Women’s Day in Russia proved to be the first stage of the Russian Revolution. In 1917 Russian women rallied on the last Sunday of February for their right to bread and peace. This demonstration was part of the movement that led to the February Revolution. Four days later the last tsar was forced to abdicate and women won their right to vote. After converting the date to the Gregorian calendar, March 8th became International Women’s Day. It is celebrated in every nook and cranny in Russia and flowers are sold by the dozens. Following the October Revolution, the Bolshevik feminist Alexandra Kollontai persuaded Lenin to make it an official holiday, and during the Soviet period it continued to celebrate ‘the heroic woman worker’. In the West, International Women’s Day was commemorated during the 1910s and 1920s, but dwindled. It was revived by the rise of feminism in the 1960s. In 1975, the United Nations began sponsoring International Women’s Day. The general idea of having an international women’s day worldwide was first put forward at the turn of the 20th century amid rapid world industrialization and economic expansion that led to protests over working conditions. Not so much the pillars of society as its elegant, yet steadfast Ionic columns, a veritable host of remarkable women have helped shape Mother Russia over the centuries. To mark International Women’s Day, we have selected just a few of the most influential, illustrious and illuminating female figures ever to have graced Russian history. You should never forget your granny on March 8th, so nor will we: in fact, we’ll kick off our list with Vladimir the Great’s.
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Olga of Kiev A convert to Christianity at least 30 years before Kiev Rus’ followed suit, Olga was, by all accounts, not someone to be trifled with. In 945, her husband Igor, son of Rurik, was killed by the Drevlians while attempting to collect tribute – it was apparently the second collection within a month, hence their ire. In response, Olga had various Drevlian envoys buried or burned alive, before inviting another 5,000 to a feast, who were also slaughtered. She then sent an army to raze their city to the ground with the aid of – we kid you not – incendiary-equipped birds. Most likely of Varangian descent, her name is a derivation of the Old Norse Helga, meaning “holy”, and is of course still in common use today. Upon conversion to Christianity she took the name Elena, and ruled as regent until her son, Svyatoslav the Brave, reached maturity in 963. In fact she ran domestic matters for a good few years after that, as Svyatoslav was much happier waging war on neighbouring fiefdoms. Mindful no doubt of her husband’s fate, Olga made changes to the tribute system in accordance with which appointed officials, and not the ruler himself, did the collecting. She is thus credited with making the first recorded legal reform in Eastern Europe. Nadezhda Durova The daughter of a Russian army officer, Nadezhda Durova was raised in the care of her father’s subordinates following a near-death experience in her early years when her unstable mother, who had wanted a son, snatched her from the arms of her nanny and threw her out of the window of a moving carriage. It is said that her favourite childhood toy was a gun, and she wrote in her own memoir The Cavalry Maiden that her “first cradle was a horse’s saddle”. The call of the army did not leave Durova when her father retired, and in 1807 she absconded from home, disguised herself as a boy and joined up, fighting with distinction in the Prussian campaign of 1806-7. When she finally wrote home from the front, her family used their connections to try to locate her, and word that a woman was serving in the Imperial Army eventually reached an intrigued Alexander I. When she was summoned to court, Durova so impressed the Tsar that he awarded her the Cross of St George and promoted her to the rank of lieutenant. In 1812 she saw action at both Smolensk and Borodino, sustaining a leg injury at the latter from a cannonball. The Cavalry Maiden, considered one of the earliest autobiographies written in Russian, may never have come to light at all had Durova not been persuaded many years later to publish her war diaries by a certain Alexander Pushkin. February - March 2015
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Features Catherine the Great
Alexandra Kollontai
Born Sophia Augusta Frederica, Catherine took her more familiar name upon conversion to Orthodoxy at the age of 15. Her zeal to be accepted in the Russian court was such that the young princess very nearly died of pneumonia a few months previously as a result of walking barefoot round the palace at night reciting her Russian lessons. But although Catherine did not inherit Peter the Great’s genes, she certainly fell heir to his expansionist instincts, rapidly augmenting her empire to the west, south and east. She also opened up Russia’s second route to the open sea through the Bosphorous following her emphatic victory over the Ottomans in 1774. At home, Catherine presided over a flourishing of social and cultural life, although the path she trod between autocratic ruler and enlightened thinker was not always smooth: an enthusiastic correspondent with the leading intellectuals of the day, shortly before the Pugachev rebellion she famously stated to Voltaire, “no single peasant in Russia could not eat chicken whenever he pleased”. Undoubtedly one of the central architects of Russia’s rise to the status of global power, Catherine may have been a conflicted character, but her legacy is beyond doubt.
Probably the most prominent woman in the Soviet administration following the October 1917 Revolution, Alexandra Kollontai was the first People’s Commissar for Social Welfare, and during her relatively brief spell in governnment, founded the Zhenotdel (“Women’s Department”), which worked to improve the lives of women under the new regime. Born in St Petersburg in 1872, Kollontai (she retained her surname from her brief first marriage) had become interested in radical political thought while studying in Switzerland. Originally from the Menshevik faction, she went across to the Bolshevik’s in 1915, but after the revolution became increasingly critical of Lenin’s policies, and she was ultimately sidelined into a diplomatic career. Appointed Soviet Ambassador to Norway in 1923, and later serving in Mexico and Sweden, she was to remain in post in Stockholm until the end of the Second World War. An unflinching advocate of free love, Kollontai’s death in the early 1950s, just short of her 80th birthday, meant that she did not live to see the wider embracing of her ideas in the decades that followed. Her second marriage, to fellow Communist Pavel Dybenko, was also not to last, although Leningrad’s town planners have had the last word: Ulitsa Kollontai and Ulitsa Dybenko run parallel in the eastern part of the city, aptly connected by Prospekt Bolshevikov!
Sofia Tolstaya Behind every great man, and all that, but this literary giant’s devoted spouse must really be put in a category of one. If you want evidence, look no further than the fact that she is said to have copied out – and edited – the manuscript of War and Peace not once, but seven times. Sofia was introduced to her husband’s writings at an early stage in their relationship: on the eve of their wedding he is said to have given her his diairies, which detailed, among other things, his “idiscretions” with female serfs, one of whom had borne him a child. Undeterred (although presumably more than a little miffed), Sofia added another 13 official offspring to the Tolstoy total, although “only” eight were to survive childhood. Tolstaya can also lay claim to being one of history’s first social photocorrespondents, having taken up photography in 1887: she left a collection of over 1000 photographs depicting not only her husband and life on the Yasnaya Polyana estate, but also more generally the last days of tsarist Russia. She also left her diaries, and a memoir simply entitled My Life. Sofia’s 48-year marriage ended on a sour note: after continual conflict over Toltsoy’s stated determination to relinquish all his worldly possessions, Leo abruptly left his wife at the age of 82, and died less than two weeks later. 22 Moscow In Your Pocket
Sofia Kovalevskaya Born in 1850, Kovalevskaya was a renowned mathematician, writer and advocate of women’s rights in the 19th century. Her struggle to obtain the best education possible forced her to study overseas, and she entered the University of Heidelberg in 1869. Dedicated to social reform, Kovalevskaya made a key contribution to opening university doors to women in Russia. In 1883 she lectured at the University of Stockholm and was made Professor of Mechanics, becoming the first female professor in Northern Europe. In 1888 she was awarded the coveted Prix Bordin by the French Academy of Sciences for a pioneering paper on the motions of bodies, and the following year, after vociferous lobbying by her peers, was granted a Chair at the Russian Academy of Sciences, although she was never to receive a full professorship. In addition to her mathematical writings, Kovalevskaya also published her memoir A Russian Childhood, co-wrote a number of plays, and authored the semiautobiographical novel Nihilist Girl. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Features Anna Pavlova
Marina Raskova
Born in Ligovo, St. Petersburg in 1881, Anna Pavlova’s passion for ballet was ignited at an early age when her mother took her to see Sleeping Beauty at the Mariinsky. Perhaps best known for her creation of the Dying Swan, Pavlova’s rise was by no means a steady one, and it was only her extraordinary dedication that enabled la petite sauvage to become one of the greatest prima ballerinas of the 20th century. Her unique, expressive style thrilled audiences all over the world, in fact it is said that no dancer, before or since, has travelled as extensively: 350,000 miles in 15 years. In order to better support her frail, rigid feet, Pavlova added a wooden block to her ballet shoes in what was considered a cheat at the time, but gave rise to the now universal pointe shoe. She moved to London in 1912, where she went on to become a major force in the development of British ballet. In 1931 Pavlova contracted pneumonia while on tour in The Hague, refusing a remedial operation that might have meant she would never dance again. Succumbing to pleurisy shortly afterwards, her last words were said to be “Get my Swan costume ready.”
On a lighter note, in 1938 Marina Raskova took part in the first non-stop flight from Moscow to the Russian Far East. With an all-female crew, the flight lasted 26 hours and 29 minutes, but for Raskova the journey was to last a great deal longer: in poor visibility they lost their bearings to the landing site, and with her navigators’ compartment nonsurvivable in the event of a forced landing, she was forced to bail out in mid-air. Armed with only a revolver and two chocolate bars, it was another 10 days before she found the plane in the wilderness. Following the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War, Raskova formed three women-only air regiments, evidently using her personal connections with Stalin to overcome both bureaucratic and chauvinistic hurdles. The most famous of these was undoubtedly the 46th Taman Guards Night Bomber Aviation Regiment, nicknamed die Nachthexen (“Night Witches”) by the Germans, which flew over 24,000 sorties during the course of the war in antiquated bi-planes, and produced a remarkable 24 Heroes of the Soviet Union. Raskova herself, whose childhood ambition was to be an opera singer, perished in 1943 attempting a forced landing near Stalingrad. The first Soviet combatant of the war to be given a state funeral, her ashes were interred in the Kremlin walls.
Marina Tsvetaeva Were you to compile a list of countries producing tragic literary geniuses, Russia would probably be right near the top. If you then made another list just for Russia, then Marina Tsvetaeva would most likely be at or near the top of that one. Born in Moscow in 1892, Tsvetaeva’s family left Russia for warmer climes during her early teens in a futile attempt to prevent her mother from succumbing to tuberculoisis, and in 1910, aged just 18, she published her first collection of poems to considerable acclaim. Having returned to Russia after the revolution, with no financial support, and her husband Sergei Efron fighting with the White Army, in 1919 she placed both their daughters in a state orphanage, where the youngest died a year later aged just 3 years old. In 1922 Tsvetaeva went into political exile, living in poverty in Paris, Berlin (where she was reunited with Sergei, who she thought had been killed) and then Prague. In 1939 she went back to the Soviet Union where both Sergei and her surviving daughter Ariadna were arrested as spies. In 1941, Sergei was executed, Ariadna imprisoned, and Tsvetaeva hanged herself not long afterwards. Boris Pasternak wrote: ‘The greatest recognition and reevaluation of all awaits Tsvetaeva, an outstanding twentieth century poet.’ Tsvetaeva left an immeasurable literary legacy, but her rehabilitation was not to begin until the 1960s. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Valentina Tereshkova Not only the first woman but also, as her enrolment in the Soviet Air Force was purely a formality for her to officially become a cosmonaut, the first civilian in space, Valentina Tereshkova is the first great woman on our list to still be alive today. A textile worker by trade, it was her weekend hobby, skydiving, that led to her advancement into the fledgling Soviet space programme. Selected from over 400 applicants, Tereshkova blasted off on her first (and only) flight on 16 June 1963, completing 48 earth orbits in just under three days, in the process notching up more space time than the entire US manned space programme had up to that point. Ha! Tereshkova’s post-cosmic career took her first into engineering, thence into politics, where she became a high-ranking member of the Supreme Soviet and the Central Committee. Nor did her star fade with the collapse of the Soviet Union – Tereshkova remains a revered figure in Russian public life, and was one of the flag-carriers at the opening ceremony of the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. At one time a member of the research team looking into the feasibility of going to Mars, in 2013 Tereshkova, then 76, was quoted as saying that she’d still be prepared to go, even if it ended up being a one-way trip. February - March 2015
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Pokrovka
Walking tour Pokrovka Basmanny district is one of Moscow’s most beautiful and historically significant areas, closely associated with Peter I of Russia, Matvey Kazakov and Alexander Pushkin. It extends northeast from Kitay-gorod, within the radial boundaries of Yauza River, contains historical areas of Khitrovka, Clean Ponds, Red Gates, the German Quarter and Basmannaya Sloboda and boasts memorial buildings of Petrine Baroque, Neoclassicism and Art Nouveau periods. It is indeed a glimpse into the Moscow of days past and no street better represents the history, culture and life of then and now than Pokrovka Street. It is mentioned in Griboedov’s “Woe from Wit”, Alexey Tolstoy’s “Peter the First” and its perfect embodiment of historical Moscow made it extremely popular among Russia’s cinematographers. For example, a famous Soviet cult classic comedy film “The Pokrovsky Gate” (directed by Mikhail Kozakov) is set in the area around Pokrovsky Gate, which is a square situated roughly midway down Pokrovka. Lets begin with a little background of the origins of Pokrovka. This street got its name from the Church of the Intercession first mentioned all the way back in 1488. In 1778 the church was demolished but Pokrovka remained. As with anything that bore any kind of religious connotation, the Soviets renamed Pokrovka to something more socialist sounding. The new name - Chernyshevskogo Street - was an homage to Nikolay Chernyshevsky, a Russian democrat and utopian socialist who was widely regarded as the chief inspiration for Russia’s revolutionary movement in the 19th century. To immortalize his actions and deeds, a statue was erected in his honor in 1988 and remains on Pokrovka 16 until this day. And as with many central streets that were renamed by the Soviets, Pokrovka got its original name back after the fall of the USSR and, ironically, embraced capitalism as luxurious hotels and apartments, modern business centers and posh restaurants started popping up. That is not to say that Pokrovka has lost its classic Moscow feel. For example house number 1/13/6 is a residential house designed in 1871, which is now a cultural heritage site. Several beautiful churches, cathedrals and other reli24 Moscow In Your Pocket
gious places line the street making it a highly important area in Moscow for spirituality and Russian Orthodox Christianity. Mansions that belonged to Moscow’s merchants of the 19th century are beautiful site to behold, especially now that many of them have undergone much-needed reconstruction. One of these mansions (house number 22/1) was even frequented by Alexander Pushkin and Olga Pushkina for dance lessons. House number 38A was the main city residence of nobles families like the Shuvalovs and later Golitsyns (duchess Natalia Petrovna Golitsyna was the inspiration for Pushkin’s “Queen of Spades”) and is one of the most significant buildings in Moscow embodying the period of early classicism. Apart from soaking in history, Pokrovka is a street wellknown for culture, art and entertainment. For example, at the very end of the street (house number 47/24) you will find 35mm, Moscow’s premiere cinema for foreign language movies, art house films and festivals. Children and adults alike would certainly enjoy a trip to the Museum of Unique Dolls (house 13/2), where the art of doll making in Russia, Germany and England over the last two centuries receives special attention: glass cabinets are packed with more than 6,000 wax, plastic and cloth figures as well as English doll houses. No one can ever go hungry or thirsty here, either. If you’re looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings, go to Dacha na Pokrovke (house 18/15), a café/restaurant spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion with its collection of Soviet and preSoviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. For a quick tasty breakfast pastry or lunchtime snack, pop into Bulka (house 19) where everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. To sink your teeth into contemporary Georgian goodness in contemporary surroundings – and at very reasonable prices – Saperavi would be our pick on Pokrovka (house 5). The menu does hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the clasmoscow.inyourpocket.com
Pokrovka sic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri - add in thirst-quenching homemade lemonades and reasonably priced wines and you are on to a winner! Nearby, you can also find Dolma (house 16) in case you want a broader selection of various Caucasian cuisines. It doesn’t have the fake foliage and costumed waiters so typical of Caucasian restaurants until recently, but rather the laidback comfort of a stylish armchair and an exposed brick urban vibe. The best beer spot on Pokrovka would have to be Pilsner (house 15/16) Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Although situated on a main road, once inside a friendly traditional pub atmosphere will make you think you’re in Prague, and the menu’s reasonable prices allow you to sample a wide array of Czech cuisine. Partying is another thing that Pokrovka is absolutely suitable for. Krizis Zhanra (house 16/16 bld. 1) is a longtime favorite that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22:00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. Another noteworthy place that you won’t find anywhere else in town is Tsiferblat, café turned common room. It works on a unique concept whereby you pay for the time you spend here and everything else (provided they have it) is complimentary. When you arrive you select a clock and your name and time is written on a board, when you leave you pay for each minute you stayed - 3Rbl per minute for the 1st hour, and 2Rbl per minute after that. You can help yourself to tea, coffee and biscuits from their little kitchen and you are welcome to bring in your own sandwiches etc too. Dozens of board games, chess and backgammon sets are available and there’s also free wi-fi and large tables for working or studying. Warning: no alcohol. If your budget permits and you’d like to make Pokrovka your temporary home while on holiday or business in Moscow, the Mamaison All-Suites Spa boutique design hotel (house 40/2) is a fantastic option. The cigar lounge and the restaurant are stellar, created from the excitable minds of Russia’s best designers. An abundance of French furniture turns the hotel into a gallery. The Mamaison Pokrovka has only suites and apartments (no standard rooms) and all are filled with hip 1930s and 1950s design features and modern kitchenettes. The small foreign literature library suffices, should you get bored with the state-of-the-art televisions, wireless Internet and luxury spa complex with hydromassage pool. Obviously, there are plenty more cafes, restaurants, bars and places of interest on Pokrovka that suit absolutely all tastes and interests but we would have to fill this entire issue with their descriptions so it would be if you went to discover this fascinating, historically significant part of Moscow for yourself! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Cosy Russian restaurant
Traditional Russian cuisine Pokrovsky Boulevard 18/15 +7 499 764 99 95 www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru
DON GIULIO Salumeria Formaggeria Prodotti Italiani a Mosca This unusual little shop marks out its own Italian territory in the unfamiliar Moscow surroundings. The combination of the most traditional Moscow architecture in the centre of the city and the powerfully beating Italian heart inside makes this little shop a truly inimitable environment. The owner himself, Giulio Zompi, will be happy to use his expertise of selling Italian wines to advise you on what to drink with your fresh assortment of Italian goods. They also opened a shop at Mal. Bronnaya ul. 22/15 (entrance via tea house Le Voyage du Thé, metro Tverskaya) and Presnenskaya nab. 10 (Moscow City, tower B, metro Vystavochnaya). Don Giulio’s latest venture is La Scarpetta, a restaurant that takes its Italian roots just as seriously as do the shops. It is located on pereulok Kholzunova 9/1, just a short walk from Frunzenskaya metro station. QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 926 666 33 70. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A February - March 2015
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Where to eat
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian Cafe Chekhov Set right next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here is inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear contemporary costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome innovation.QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PAGSW
SYMBOL key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
26 Moscow In Your Pocket
Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and just as popular with local business men as passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but at one time it was the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW Dacha na Pokrovke The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings. Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15 (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open 12:00 - 04:30. €€. PAEGSW Odessa Mama Drawing inspiration from the slightly raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand summer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking to the large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items that you won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus, currently Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you grew up in the USSR, this is like going back to your carefree childhood; if you didn’t it’s maybe a bit difficult to see what the fuss is about.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAVEGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat Asian and Indian Aozora You know how people often tell you that once you’ve eaten sushi in Japan you can’t really go back to eating it anywhere else? Well, what about when you are in Moscow and find yourself in a restaurant full of Japanese people eating sushi - must be a good sign, right? We freely admit that Aozora is located in a large hotel, but don’t let that put you off.The interior here is an effective mix of gold leaf, samurais and steely grey, and the menu doesn’t disappoint. As well as sashimi and sushi/rice boxes, there are great udon soups, grilled fish, tempura and for the fat wallets - real Kobe beef.QHotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 58 30, www. aozzora.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAVW Bely Zhuravl Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow is served up at this simple restaurant, and the portions are huge! Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) are provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The idea here is to bring a group of friends and share things out between you as the soups, noodles and meat dishes come by the kilo. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can make it difficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean cuisine, although there are at least pictures.QFrunzenskaya nab. 14, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 775 06 56, www.beliyjuravl.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAVSW Darbars at Starosadsky Darbars is known for the authentic fresh Indian food which at one time could only be found in the hotel Sputnik. Since they took over the famous and popular Maharaja restaurant, you can now find them in the centre too. The chef and staff are the same as in the Maharaja and continue their tradition of renowned Indian hospitality, welcoming you with a complimentary crispy papadum starter. Follow this with a wide choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes all prepared according to traditional methods, and to whatever level of spiciness takes your fancy.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 963 757 02 90, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGS Tan Sometimes it can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, and not just in Moscow, but anywhere. Tan, however, just off Triumphalnaya Square, bucks this trend. The menu boasts a huge choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www. restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAGSW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
russian cuisine Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually finds its way into everything.
Bliny and snacks Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka). Soups and salads Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka. Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot. Main dishes Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce. February - March 2015
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Where to eat Beer Restaurants Kozlovica Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour. QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW Pilsner Paveletskaya Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka), Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD-5, Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW
Cafes and Bakeries Bublik Set in the bright surroundings of a 19th Century house on one of the city’s most verdant boulevards, this delightful deli-style bakery is an inviting place to sit and enjoy a coffee and a pie or a real sandwich (as opposed to the slice of bread and salami combo that sometimes passes for sandwiches in Russia). The staff work well and with grace, despite having to wear bizarre giant chef’s hats, and everything is fresh. The only thing they need is more cushions for the hard wooden chairs.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 24, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 13 42, www. ginza.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGSW Bulka Although the staff are smiling away and the interior is a fashionable minimalist leather and brown, full glass frontage affair, you may prefer just to pop in here and take something to go, given that with the ovens and glass surround it has the potential to get very stuffy. If it isn’t too hot though, by all means settle in and enjoy a fantastic range of pastries - the fruit pies are incredibly rich, and neither the tartly sweet creations nor the fresh bread that goes into the sandwiches can be faulted. In fact everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 19, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 95 57, www.bulkabakery.ru. Open 08:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €. PASW 28 Moscow In Your Pocket
Coffee Pyu One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they wouldn’t even mind if you did.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9 bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www. coffee-piu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00 - 23:00. Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. €. PAGW Khleb and Co This swanky little bakery, near the Church of Christ the Saviour is just the spot to pick up a lunch time snack, breakfast croissant or a crusty fresh loaf to go with that soup you’re planning for dinner. The entrance way is the same door as for Restaurant Vertinski. Service is accommodating, packaging is slick and everything is baked according to the French bakery tradition. Also at ul. Tverskaya - Yamskaya 12/14 (metro Mayakovskaya) and Chistoprudny bul. 12/4 (metro Chistye Prudy).QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 3, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 962 091 15 98, www.eatout.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 22:00. €€. PASW
Caucasian Gayane’s An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food. Great examples of the region’s specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayane’s authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow bits and said to be the ‘food of heroes’. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark blue line) metro station.QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60, www.gayanes. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVSW
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Where to eat Khachapuri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www. hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €. PAVEGSW
food from former republics
Noev Kovcheg The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. The venue was opened on the 17th of the 7th month - the day when Noah’s ark is said to have ran aground. The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGSW
One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).
Saperavi Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings. No tacky water features here, thank you very much: instead it’s bright colours, stylish lighting, comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does feature good, solid fare like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri, but also adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They also do an great job of explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on offer.QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89 93, www. saperavicafe.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 01:00. €. PAVGSW
European Björn The moment the the doors of Björn were opened to the Moscow public, word spread like wildfire. In the evening this laconic, nature-inspired and utterly Scandinavian place has very few free tables. The secret to Björn’s success is, of course, the typical contemporary Scandinavian approach to food: an abundance of rich, imaginative flavours in tune with nature and none of your pretentiousness. The Danish head chef ensures that everything guests taste is in complete accordance with the best northern cuisines have to offer. Scandinavian specialties such as venison, salmon, herring and cod taste even better with friendly staff and a delightful northern drinks menu!QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 90 59, www.bjrn.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. PAGW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Brix If it is fine wine you seek, look no further. There are few better bars where you can sip a good wine in good company than at Brix 2. Whilst the bar’s chic character may match its classy customers - neither reflect its modest prices. With wines so well-selected and well-priced, what’s the catch? We haven’t found one yet!QB-2, Maly Kozykhinsky pereulok 10/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 95 94, www.brix-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAW Coin Despite its name, this former printhouse offers a very reasonably priced varied menu of fantastic European food, and boasts a drinks menu for any occasion. Owner Alexander Shikin has plans to introduce concerts and exhibitions to this vast, stylishly renovated industrial space where there are already multiple screens for sports viewing. Be sure to check the restaurant’s Facebook page for updates.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 71/5, bldg. 2, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 67 80, www.coin-hall.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun closed. €€. PTAGW February - March 2015
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Where to eat
Funky Lab Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures of all the dishes? Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just because of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is that, while presented in a beautiful and funny way, the food is just plain good. A relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and very reasonable prices in a down-to-earth location – this restaurant deserves its visitors.QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €€. PAEGSW
Red Pepper This unpretentious restaurant with its inviting open kitchen offers a very pleasant introduction to Bulgarian cuisine, with the chefs preparing a wide range of delicious Bulgarian meat dishes. For those who are not up for an East European culinary adventure, there’s plenty of antipasti, pizza, pasta, risotto and even very good fish dishes to choose from. With a low-key interior, this place focuses on what is important, and you will certainly be more than satisfied after they have brought you the food. Fresh ingredients, professional service, surprisingly good wines, and just a few minutes from Tsetnoy Bulvar metro, this restaurant is certainly worth a visit.QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 2, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 507 73 74. 10:00 - 22:00 (until last guest). €€. PAGW Scandinavia An icon of Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has provided service with a smile for almost two decades now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, though: the bar menu also boasts a hefty and popular burger. The central location and calm international atmosphere mean there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW
Lucien Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Open the menu and you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms.QUl. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGW
Art Clumba Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets everything at the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that lets the well-sourced ingredients shine. The whole layout itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige combo highlighting the building’s unique architectural features.QArtPlay na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.art-clumba. ru/. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEGSW
Molon Lave A new Greek restaurant is now serving Moscow’s discerning foodies and gourmands. The brainchild of “Sovietproduced Greek” Alexey Karolidis, Molon Lave serves up the most authentic tzatziki, horiatiki, moussaka and kolokithokeftedes that the capital has to offer. And it’s no wonder, after all the head chef Stamatis Tsilias was invited to Russia especially for this delicious project. Those who really know their Greek specialties will be delighted to find real, traditional retsina (white/rosé resinated wine), as well as other wines from Greece and further afield, Greek ouzo and metaxa.QA-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 39, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 272 00 47. €€. AEGSW
Delicatessen Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20, veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad.QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PAEGW
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International
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Where to eat Deti Raika It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty fish dishes. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAEW Funny Cabany The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to succulent tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www. funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW Izia Grill What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi, and Izia Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the trend. It’s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor is hardly revolutionary, the change in cuisine is striking. Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions, but usually have snack-sized price tags attached.QD-2, Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 623 08 48, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. €. PAEGSW Kon-Tiki The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than a bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in Moscow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill. Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant is always buzzing with the music and energy from Caribbean and Latino themed parties.QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 20, www.kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAEGSW
Reserve a Table Have you ever wished you could reserve a table at popular Moscow restaurants more easily and conveniently? Moscow In Your Pocket and company Leclick have made the perfect solution for you. You can now make restaurant reservations direct from our website. Click on the blue “Reserve a table” button when you open up a restaurant page for Moscow In Your Pocket and quickly fill out the form. It only takes a few seconds to click a couple of buttons and send the reservation through. The booking system will then reserve the table for you (if available) and send you confirmation of the reservation via an SMS text message in English! Laffa Laffa Laffa Laffa is the latest addition to Moscow’s burgeoning gourmet street food scene. Two branches opened almost simultaneously in October 2014, and have quickly established a reputation for elevating the humble ‘shaurma’ wrap into a culinary treat. The Middle-east themed cafes pride themselves on preparing fresh food fast - bread is cooked to order and tender meat and fresh vegetables are always to hand. As Moscow steadily falls in love with falafel, this is definitely a spot worth checking out - and for vegetarians struggling to find reliable options in a notoriously carnivorous city, this is definitely a spot worth checking out for its impressive array of tasty meat-free dips as well as its veggie falafel dishes. QB-2, Mal. Bronnaya 4, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 975 55 45. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW Poekhali A recent addition to Moscow’s growing list of chic eateries, Poekhali differentiates itself with an unpretentious yet sophisticated vibe. The concept is in the name: let’s go and explore different areas of the world and their cuisines. Middle-eastern, Scandinavian, Italian, Asian and traditional Russian motifs inspire the menu. The interior is modern and eclectic but not kitschy, the lighting dimmed to create a more intimate atmosphere.To avoid disappointment it’s best to make a reservation, especially on weekend nights. QC-1, Petrovka 30/7, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 419 00 88, www.poexa.li. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€.
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Where to eat Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu lives up to the general experience, filled as it is with well-crafted dishes that deftly cover a wide range of cuisines. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www. skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW Townhouse A welcoming interior, unpretentious European chic and a menu borrowing something from the cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood is not to be missed. The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area.QD-5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW
Bring on the Bliny
From February 23 until April 11 (Orthodox Easter) don’t be surprised if most restaurants you visit have a special post or lent menu for the period of fasting before Easter. In the Russian Orthodox Church Lenten requirements are very strict. On the dietary front all kinds of meat, poultry, fish, dairy products, eggs, alcohol and most types of oil are off the menu. So what can you eat then? Shellfish, fruits, vegetables and grains are all thankfully allowed, so no-one starves. However, the period before post, known in Russia as Maslenitsa is a feeding and partying frenzy. Everyday from February 16 - 22 Russians stuff themselves with pancakes (bliny) and a festive atmosphere generally takes over the whole city. Typically the largest epicenter of activities is the area in and around Red Square. Read more on page 19. 32 Moscow In Your Pocket
Italian Flotilla Radisson restaurant One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian accent as it plies its route along the Moskva, taking in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests to Moscow to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the thumbs-up, and with winter it’s time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA-3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, www.radisson-cruise.ru. €€€. PAEGW MoMo Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia in Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of Italian food, offering many meat and fish dishes alongside the classic pizza and pasta, and a selection of French and Italian vintage wines. Its business class clientele are spread across three main rooms, the largest of which resembles a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker chairs.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www. momorest.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAG� SW Osteria della Piazza Bianca A relaxed Italian atmosphere combined with European comfort makes the Osteria della Piazza Bianca a special place in Moscow. The panoramic views and open kitchen - where Italian chefs prepare your meal right in front of you - create an inviting ambience. Choosing between the various fresh Italian dishes can be hard enough, but luckily the sommelier will be on hand in case you hesitate about the wine.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7 495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs. PAVGW Tarantino Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag. QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGW
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Where to eat Steak Houses Butchery Bar and Grill A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus. The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom. ru/page-butchery. Open 06:30 - 4:00. €€. PAGW GOODBEEF This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2, Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW Gastronomica-Fish If you love fish, once you step off chaotic Leninsky prospekt and pass through the door of the cool, calming Gastronomica, you’ll be glad you made the effort. This is definitely one of the best fish restaurants in Moscow, with a main menu featuring Chilean sea bass, turbot and sole, as well as trout and salmon from closer to home. All of the above can be cooked any number of ways, from baked in a coal stove to steamed with wine - delicious! There’s also a good range of seafood salads, soups, pastas and risottos - we particularly liked the sterlet consomme - as well as mouthwatering mussels to start. It is a bit of a trek from the metro, so it may be wise to come by car. In summer, take a seat on the terrace.QLeninsky pr. 57, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 641 11 43, www. gastronomicafish.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 23:30. €€€. PAVGSW
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Sunday Brunch AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel Looking for a brunch place in Moscow? Look no further! Azimut Moscow Olympic Hotel on Olimpiyskiy Prospekt is continuing this wonderful tradition throughout the winter. Every Sunday guests can lounge around and socialize with family and friends while enjoying a late breakfast. The menu changes every week so you’ll never get bored of the selection of traditional Russian dishes at the generous buffet table, which consists of cold starters and salads, a caviar station with blini, a wide assortment of French and Spanish cheeses, meat and fish dishes, delightful desserts and fresh fruit. The price of the buffet also includes alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. To get a 20% discount, book 72 hours in advance!QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. Sunday 12:30 - 16:00. Brunch 3,200Rbl and 2,600Rbl in case of booking 72 hours in advance. Children till 6 years free of charge and children from 6 till 12 years receive 50% discount. Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City Ceilings decked with sail cloth that looks like it’s moving in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned with paintings of maritime settings: you’ll certainly feel all at sea - in a good way - when you step into this restaurant. This is a perfect place to wind down after a long day’s shopping with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid out on a bed of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick and choose. Exceptional service, an original and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine list are sure to impress even the most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs. QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66 km, 4th floor, MMyakino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www.portomaltese.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TNGW Sirena Ahoy there matey - welcome aboard Moscow’s most established seafood restaurant, serving wealthy Moscow diners since 1992 and still maintaining a high reputation for flying in some of the freshest fish available. The interior is very much new Russian opulence, with a fish tank floor, a wood paneled interior resembling a ship’s cabin and staff dressed in naval outfits. Admire the day’s catches in the ice beds before the chef grills them up to perfection, or pick out a live lobster for the pot. Sirena’s menu also features a long list of top quality European dishes made from fabulous crab, sturgeon and scallop and more, as well as fresh oysters.QD-1, Bol. Spasskaya ul. 15, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 14 12, www.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/sirena/. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PAESW February - March 2015
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Nightlife The original city that doesn’t sleep, Moscow has everything going on under those bright neon signs. Whether you’re after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee small hours, you won’t be disappointed.
live music CLUBS DeFAQto This third venue in the FAQ chain of alternative bars is a bit of a jumble of styles and ideas. Like a strange cross between an English pub and an American bar, with a stage that would suit stand-up comedy well, you get the feeling that something is about to happen here, although it never actually does. The music is similarly confused, although the food is reliable and the booth seating in particular is nice for smaller groups.QD-2, Ul. Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.ru. Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs. PAEGW Duma This place is not merely literally underground, it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing
machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. AEW Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you’ll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit the spot so don’t worry about that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 08:00. PAEW Krisis Zhanra Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never seems to get old or lose its appeal. Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 06:00. PENGW
Bars Bar Is On a rainy, cold night there is no better place to escape for a cozy warm evening with a friend or two. In a dimmed basement setting with high stools and red walls (closely resembling a hip joint somewhere in Brooklyn), Bar Is serves up its new and refreshing version of classic cocktails, an assortment of fine wines and spirits from all corners of the world and a delectable menu of modern European food. Very friendly staff, relaxed jazz and Frank Sinatra softly playing in the background and surprisingly decent prices all add to the pleasant atmosphere. With a very central location, Bar Is makes for a perfect spot to catch up with friends or enjoy the company of your special someone.QB-2, Mal. Palashevsky per. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 10 45. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAW La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive, albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most exclusive vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged 36 Moscow In Your Pocket
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Nightlife leather sofas and bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated atmosphere to those sophisticated deal-breaking drinks. La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to accompany the wine.QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 88, www.labottega.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAGW MyBar This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work. QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW
Clubs Club Garage One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub. ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overload.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 - 07:00. PAW Coyote Ugly Part of the international chain that inspired the film of the same name, this is a bar where the girls rule the roost and you’d better beware, these are no mere go-go dancers, they have attitude. Yes they can squeeze a lemon for your tequila from their cleavage, but they also have plenty of personality. Girls are allowed to dance on the huge American style bar, security make sure the men keep their hands in their pockets and the soundtrack is danceable and fun rock and pop. Happy hours bring in a mixed crowd and if it’s too loud upstairs there’s a friendly little bar hidden down in the basement.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 6/3, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 97, www.coyoteugly.ru. Open 19:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 06:00. PA
Tyomnoe – Dark Svetloe – Light (for beer) February - March 2015
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Features
Bogdarnya If you think you need a break from constant meetings, traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and everything else that big city life entails regardless of the season, then maybe it’s time to consider a little trip about 120km east of Moscow. There you will find Bogdarnya, a beautiful and welcoming agricultural and tourist complex that lets big city dwellers get back to nature, breathe some fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism.
This 400-hectare riverside property - founded by an Englishman, John Kopiski, and his Russian wife Nina - is located in the picturesque countryside and forest. The Kopiski’s are devoted Orthodox Christians with a mission to promote a healthy lifestyle. Here, everyone and anyone can experience life on a real, working farm that supplies meat to its own farm shop in Moscow. Here, everyone and anyone can learn all about meat production from paddock to plate, watch cheese making, milk the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar and engage themselves in other forms of educational “agritainment”. Here, everyone and anyone is made to feel welcome in the true traditions of Russian hospitality. Eating, drinking and relaxing are not the only things guests can do during their stay at Bogdarnya. Plenty of activities to suit just about anyone’s taste can be organized no matter what time of year you plan your visit. Now that winter is here and the snow is deep and crisp and even, you can skate on the ice rink, take a ride on the ice slide, go cross-country skiing, ice-fishing, or just take a horsedrawn sled for a Doctor Zhivago-style picnic in the forest. 38 Moscow In Your Pocket
Forest rides on horse back are a wonderful way to see the nature and be one with yourself and your thoughts. If you’ve never ridden a horse but would like to learn, why not take a lesson? Don’t feel like being at the reins but still fancy a romantic ride through nature? No problem! The experienced and friendly staff at Bogdarnya is always delighted to take guests around in horse-drawn carriages or sleds. When the horses get tired Bogdarnya also has a nice selection of quads and jeeps for adrenaline-filled forest exploration – all with a possibility of overnight camping somewhere tranquil and far removed from civilization. Thrill-seeking aside, the complex also hosts children’s camps, career guidance programs for school students, plus corporate events and banquets for up to 150 people, training and seminars. Russian holidays are celebrated in fairytale folksy fashion with traditional costumes, music, dancing and much good old-fashioned merriment - samovar, gluxvin and shashlik being at the heart of many such festivities. A 19-room on-site hotel is available for those who just don’t want to leave (and rightfully so!). All rooms have a private WC and shower. Bogdarnya also offers accommodation for students and backpackers in their 64-bed hostel housed in the former village school, or you can rent one of their lakeside chalets. A visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome retreat that benefits both body and soul. QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B (121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www.bogdarnya. ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi to Bogdarnya.
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What to see
The Kremlin
Inside the Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin.
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework.
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Annunciation Cathedral This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. February - March 2015
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What to see NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
Churches and Monasteries
Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin. QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad. Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl. Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also 40 Moscow In Your Pocket
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What to see Spaso-Andronikov Monastery Originally founded in 1320, this monastery is famous for its icon painting monk, Andrei Rublyev who lived and died here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is the poster boy of Russian icon painting having worked on the icons of the Kremlin’s Cathedral of Annunciation and other churches. Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. It’s about half the size of Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds.QAndronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free.
Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. The museum’s frequent temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out.QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Children till 7 years old free entrance. NK Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Thursday 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Thu of the month. Admission 200 - 250Rbl. N www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
ride an icebreaker
Equipped with ice-breaking technology, these huge fancy yachts are the only river cruisers running all year around. The round trip journey takes two and a half hours and floats past all the big sights like the White House, Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin. There’s a large open air observation deck up top, while the main body of the ship houses a restaurant with a dance floor for a romantic post dinner dance. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening boats and admire the bright lights of the city skyline at night. Note that you can also join and depart the cruise from the pier in Gorky Park (metro Park Kultury), although it is advisable to check the departure times first.QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise.ru. From pier hotel Ukraina boats leave: Mon - Wed 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, Thu - Fri 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, 21:00, Sat Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (2,5 hrs). From pier Gorky Park boats leave: Mon - Fri 16:00, 20:00 (2,5 hrs), Sat 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (2,5 hrs) and Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00 (2,5hrs). It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Tickets for 2,5 hrs boat trips 900Rbl, children from 6 till 12 years old 650Rbl and children till 5 years old free of charge. Tickets for 1,5 hrs boat trips (only from pier Gorky Park) 650 Rbl, children from 6 till 12 years old 450Rbl, children till 5 years old free of charge. First class 2,000Rbl. PAUKW State Central Museum of Contemporary history of Russia Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. N February - March 2015
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What to see Icons
No Russian church is complete without its icons – but what do these ancient images mean, and why are they there? The tradition came to Kievan Rus following the conversion to Christianity in 988. Little is known about the artists who painted them – with a few notable exceptions, such as the great Andrei Rublev, these were considered works to glorify God, not celebrate the talent of their makers. At a time when literacy was unusual, strong visual images played a vital role in the ritual. These painted icons, following from Byzantine tradition, were introduced as a focal point for prayer. Even today, believers continue to address prayers to specific icons, choosing an image that matches the problem they wish to share with God. That’s why, for example, icons depicting Prince Pyotr and his peasant bride Fevronia are associated with prayers concerning family life. Some of Russia’s most venerated icons have legends attached to them: they accompanied great armies into battle and are credited with inspiring victories and defending the Orthodox faith of the Russian people. The icon of the Mother of God of Vladimir is believed to have spared Moscow from invasion on no less than three occasions. The monastery on Sretenka was built on the site where, in 1395, Prince Vasily of Moscow spent the night praying over the icon after it arrived from the ancient city of Vladimir. The next day the Mongol Armies of Tamerlane retreated from the city. Learn more about Russian icons in the Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art or in the Tretatyakov Gallery.
Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art Housed in the grounds of Andronikov Monastery, this museum is dedicated to the art of the Russian icon throughout the ages. Although none of the famed Rublyev’s work is here, the icons in the collection are still beautiful. Preservation is paramount for icons and many are still shining brightly despite their age. Spread out over three floors of the restored St. Michael’s chapel, a ghostly feeling still inhabits the place.QAndronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00 Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission 350Rbl.
Tretyakov Gallery For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 250 - 400Rbl. PU
Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time. Also remember most museums ask you to buy an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos 42 Moscow In Your Pocket
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What to see
State Historical Museum Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. The atmosphere is conducive to both wandering and musing as the museum guides are, lets say, a little less protective than usual. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s day, and a great portrait gallery to set you straight on who exactly was who in the Russian aristocracy. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 300Rbl. The small café serves basic Russian snack food, inexpensive tea and coffee and butterbrodi (Russian open sandwiches).QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl. U
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artistic places Dostoevsky Memorial Museum
Dostoevsky is usually associated with St. Petersburg but in fact he grew up in Moscow. His father was posted to the city’s hospital for the poor and this small apartment, attached to the hospital, was given to him and his family. The austere rooms are demonstrative of Dostoevsky’s lower middle class upbringing and are carefully tended to by the museum staff. If you have the time they can philosophise about the great writer for hours. The second undecorated wing of the flat houses a collection of banned illustrations made for his books in the 1930s as well as the desk, where he wrote the novel Brothers Karamazov.QUl. Dostoevskogo 2, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 10 85, www.goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Wed, Thu 14:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last day of the month. Admission 70 - 100Rbl. N Lev Tolstoy Museum Dedicated to the life of the man behind War and Peace and Anna Karenina, this is a reverential place packed with personal and literary material. A complex and conflicted individual, the exhibits trace his life from childhood to death and the emergence of his major works. Easy to follow due to some great carded English translations, this is a good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul. Prechistenka 11, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74 10. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. N February - March 2015
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What to see Parks and Gardens Gorky Park The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in 2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent near the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near the Andreyevsky bridge where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular open-air concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art space Garage CCC. There’s usually something special happening every weekend, with many events especially marketed at kids.QB-5, Krymsky Val 9, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.parkgorkogo.com. Open 24hrs. W
Izmailovsky Park Izmailovo Park is one of the largest parks in Moscow, at more than 300 hectares. The area was once located on the estate of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, and was established as a culture and recreation park in 1931. The many attractions include the Round Pond with the man-made island, a memorial area, a Ferris wheel, sports and playgrounds, shooting galleries, cinemas, a skate park, Wi-Fi, and cosy cafes. Various festivals, concerts, theatrical performance, exhibitions, folk festivals, dance parties, and fireworks displays come to the park. Entrance to the park and all programs is free - so have fun!QAlleya Bol. Kruga 7, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 61 19, www.izmailovsky-park.ru. Open 24hrs. Admission free. L
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State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe
This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is one of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of the city. The buildings themselves usually house historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and there’s also plenty of stall selling hot drinks. The formal gardens, which offer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neoclassical sculptures, hidden summer pavilions, while the forested area leading to the small river is lovely for a lazy stroll.Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museum open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 16:00, Sat and Sun and holidays10:00 - 17:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the month. Admission park 150Rbl. Ticket for park and museum 400 Rbl. For temporary exhibitions you need to pay seperately. UNK Tsaritsyno
Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 80 - 650Rbl. UK moscow.inyourpocket.com
What to see Gogol House Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in the very centre of Moscow near Arbat Square, with its stone arcades and balconies, may seem like your average merchant’s mansion but there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. This house has a very rich history dating back to the early 17th century and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent the last four years of his life here, this is the place where the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. It was here that he burnt the manuscripts of the poem, and in this very house, on February 21, 1852 that the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250 000 volumes, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogol’s study was a special room where he could enjoy some peace and quiet while he put his timeless words down on paper. The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where the author entertained his guests. The “Government Inspector” room tells visitors about Russian theatre of the 1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogol’s Theatre and plays based on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol stayed when his health began to fade in 1852, purely because it was warmer than the other rooms. Although special attention is given to the works of Gogol and other material relating to his life, visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The library also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where anyone from novices to professionals can browse through music books and even have a go on the electric piano with special headphones to better hear how they sound. The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to the works of Gogol and other prominent Russian authors. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 58 81, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
«Дом Гоголя» — государственное учреждение культуры многофункционального типа объединяющее типа, Gogol House мемориальный музей писателя, научную библиотеку, исследовательский центр и выставочный зал. зал Первый и единственный вmuseum России мемориальный музей Н.В. Memorial and science Гоголя расположен в историческом зданииlibrary старинной городской усадьбы XVIII – XIX вв. вв в самом центре Москвы, на Никитском бульваре. В этом особняке провёл писатель последние годы своей жизни: здесь он работал над вторым томом поэмы «Мёртвые души», души» духовной прозой, готовил к изданию собрание сочинений и перед кончиной сжёг почти все свои бумаги. Во дворе усадьбы установлен памятник Гоголю работы Н.А. Н А Андреева, Андреева созданный скульптором к 100 летию со д дня р рождения д писателя и имеющий щ свою непростую, очень интересную и драматическую историю Экспозиция, историю. Экспозиция в которой гармонично сочетаютсочетают ся традиционные музейные приёмы и использование современных аудиовизуальных и мультимедийных средств, включает в себя шесть залов, объединенных темой «Гоголь — загадка третьего тысячелетия. ЖизненЖизнен ный и творческий р путь у писателя». Коллекция ц музея у насчитывает несколько тысяч экспонатов: книги, предметы еты дворянского быта, гравюры, ли литографии
Moscow, Nikitsky bul. 7a, +7 (495) 690-58-81 www.domgogolya.ru
A duck, or a rabbit? There’s a curiously titled exhibition happening at the moment that is bound to provide some food for thought. “A duck, or a rabbit?” - named after the ambiguous image in which a rabbit or a duck can be seen - explores the boundaries of perception among fans of modern art and seeks to answer a highly debated question: who has more influence on making sense of the symbols - the artist or the audience? The exhibition features several prominent Russian artists to put this to the test. Protey Temen’s “Visual Karaoke” installation invites the viewers to become co-authors, while Zhenya’s Mironov’s photo series “Building Metaphors” instantly beckons visitors to search for a visual rhythm within simple forms. So is it a duck or a rabbit? You decide. The exhibition is open till March 15. Admission free. February - March 2015
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Hidden museums
Moscow is a thriving cultural capital that has so much to offer visitors and locals alike. Locals, however, will tell you that there’s more to Moscow than Tretyakovskaya Gallery or the Pushkin Museum. Sure, these are a must but there are many other fascinating museums and galleries that are definitely worth a visit but have remained somewhat underrated. Literature buffs will be especially pleased with how Moscow commemorates the Russia’s greats. A favorite of Joseph Stalin, Maxim Gorky was a writer and revolutionary who was proclaimed the founder of the new, officially sanctioned socialist realism after the Russian Revolution. His former home, the Ryabushinsky Mansion (designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects Fyodor Schechtel in 1900), is open to visitors free of charge. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy. The most famous resident of 7A Nikitskiy Boulevard was none other than Nikolay Gogol. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps many momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250,000 volumes, a research center, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum is broken up into several rooms (his cabinet, the living room, the “Government Inspector” room and the “Room of Remembrance”). In the library, visitors have access to a large selection of books dedicated N.V. Gogol, psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to Gogol’s and other prominent Russian authors’ works. Read more on page 45. The Chekhov house honors another titan of 19th century Russian literature and sheds light on his life. The museum opened here in 1953 and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was also here that the music lover received pa46 Moscow In Your Pocket
tients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal dedication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions following the life of the great writer, a surprising number of photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Art and music aficionados will surely find the Central Museum of Musical Culture as well as the Institute of Russian Realist Art to their liking. The Central Museum of Music’s permanent exhibition is an impressive journey through musical instruments of the past and from all corners of the world in all their weird and wonderful diversity. Take a trip through Russian musical history from giant balalaikas to the famous and eerie theremin, passing on the way hefty early record players and novelty music boxes. The global collection includes crazy-looking instruments from Cuba to Korea - who knew you could make guitars from armadillos? As well as the permanent exhibition there’s always another temporary one on a subject of Russian or international music and a whole host of events throughout the year which you can find out about on their website. The Institute of Russian Realist Art may be a little out of the way but if you decide to make the trek then you will get to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. If history and anthropology are more your thing, then the next couple of museums should go straight on your to-visit list. The Nikolay Roerich Museum: Nikolay Roerich and his family are possibly some of the most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling all over Asia in the early 20th century, Nikolay and his clan recorded the beliefs, life and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and also learn from it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not only to Nikolay’s priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst extensive English descriptions add depth to the work on display. Above all it is Nikolay Roerich’s magical and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine through - the
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Hidden museums most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory long after leaving. Even if you aren’t a fan of stuffed animals and taxidermy, the Darwin Museum is still an interesting place to check out. It consists of three floors that fit into the theme of evolution. The first floor touches on the history of the Darwin Museum and biological diversity. Although there are few signs in English, the exhibitions are fairly straight-forward. The first floor also showcases many of the world’s ecosystems and recreations of some extinct animals. The next two floors deal with micro- and macroevolution, zoogeography and the development of scientific thought. There are hundreds of stuffed animals set up in their natural habitat as well as an interesting look at how humans evolved.
A slightly different kind of history, the Vodka History Museum (located inside the Izmailovo Kremlin) gives you the detailed and fun history of vodka in Russia and tells you about the role it plays in Russian society. The museum only has one floor, and it’s not very big but you should still expect to spend about an hour and a half looking around. You will learn that it has changed the course of history in Russia on more than one occasion. The museum boasts 700 different small exhibits and the collection of different vodka brands is quite impressive, plus with the regular tour a complimentary shot is of course included! After the tour you can also arrange to attend a vodka tasting session and buy your favorite brands. All information and signs are in Russian and English. Thought provoking and contemplative, the Sakharov Center should be on the list for those interested in the life of Sakharov, Russia’s Nobel Peace Prize winning physicist and human rights campaigner. The upstairs museum room hosts five informative displays discussing the establishment of the Soviet regime, the beginning of dissent, the repercussions, the results (GULAG) and the aftermath. The displays are mainly photographic but there is some installation. While all information is original and therefore in Russian, the museum provides extensive descriptions for each display in English as well as an additional guidebook. Downstairs is a library and reading room. And last but by no means least, something slightly quirky: the Lights of Moscow Museum - a museum about street lamps! Sounds dull? Not when you are controlling the lighting effects yourself! This small and eccentric little place devoted to the history of Moscow street lighting is as interactive as it is unusual. Using the nifty little remote www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
control, you can see first hand just why people complained about the first gas lamps, saying the moon shone brighter, and experience how the discovery of the electric lamp was such a world changing event. There’s also a big collection of clocks in the end of the exhibition, which amounts to only four rooms in all. Go out, explore and enjoy! Chekhov Museum QB-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 6, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last day of the month. Admission 50 - 150Rbl. Fourth Fri of the month entrance free. N Darwin Museum QUl. Vavilova 57, MAkademicheskaya, tel. (+7) 499 783 22 53, www.darwin.museum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 300Rbl. PUK Gorky Memorial Museum QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. N Institute of Russian Realist Art QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl. Lights of Moscow QD-2, Armyansky per. 3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 624 73 74, www.moscowlights.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 30 - 70Rbl. N Nikolay Roerich Museum QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl. N Sakharov Сenter QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 623 44 01, www.sakharov-center.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. The Central Museum of Musical Culture QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. TNKW The Gogol House QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Mon, Wed and Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed on Tue and last working day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. NW Vodka History Museum QIzmailovskoe shosse 73 G, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 97, www.vodkamuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admisson 100 - 180Rbl. Guided tours 240 300Rbl depending on amount of people. Excursion in English should be booked in advance. AK February - March 2015
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Where to stay
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for.
5 stars Ararat Park Hyatt QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783 12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room prices start at 6,200Rbl). Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227 rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl). Hotel National QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms (Room prices start at 8,500Rbl). Hotel Savoy Moscow QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms (Room prices start at 37,760Rbl). 48 Moscow In Your Pocket
Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Metropol QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 9,440Rbl). Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru. 497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at 19,000Rbl). Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre Hotel QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow. com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl). Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport. com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl). Sheraton Palace QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). The Ritz-Carlton QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). The St. Regis Moscow Hotel Nikol’skaya QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices start at 11,000Rbl).
4 stars Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). Best Western Plus Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). moscow.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City Center Hotel QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms (Room prices start at 4,000Rbl). Holiday Inn Lesnaya QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. 301 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Holiday Inn Suschevsky QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Marco Polo Presnja QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms (Room prices start at 5,890Rbl). Marriott Moscow Tverskaya QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices start at 4,800Rbl). Novotel Moscow Centre QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms (Room prices start at 4,602Rbl). Novotel Moscow City Hotel QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl). Ibis Paveletskaya QUl. Shchipok 22/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Warsaw QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Zolotoy Kolos QYaroslavskaya ul. 15/3, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 617 63 56, www.zkolos.ru. 331 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl).
Hostels Comrade Hostel QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. 9 rooms (Prices per bed start from 600Rbl). Godzillas QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room prices start at 864Rbl). iVan Hostel QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms (Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you make sure you complain – the registrations is their responsibility, not yours! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
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Where to stay Ask the Concierge Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Gleb Kryuchkov, and I am 28 years old. I am the Chief Concierge at Four Seasons Hotel Moscow. I was born in Moscow, since childhood, I was interested and influenced in history, and foreign languages, and I was very communicative and amicable. When I turned 17, I got into college in the sphere of Hospitality Industry in Tsaritsyno. At the same time, I worked at the Marriott Renaissance Olympic Hotel as a bellman. Before I became a concierge, I gained experience in other positions, which were as a night-auditor, front desk clerk, and as a marketing coordinator. In the year 2009, I finally reached the position as a concierge at the Marriott Grand Hotel. After 5 years, I had received a job offer at the InterContinental as the Chief Concierge. A year and a half past and I joined the family of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts as a Chief Concierge. Can you tell us something about Four Seasons Hotel Moscow? It has just been opened. What makes it special? What do you like best about this hotel? We opened our hotel on the 25th of October 2014. We are located right in the heart of the city, in the historical building built by Alexander Shusev, the legendary Hotel Moskva. We say in our hotel, “History meets luxury”. Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts is a well-known brand consisting of 95 hotels around the globe. Our hotels are located in different unique locations, with a unique service, and with a unique historical and cultural background. Our “Hotel Vision” is what makes us special: We will be the friendliest hotel in town. What inspires me the most is the spectacular view from our rooms. That is what I like best about this hotel.
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What can you tell us about your favorite places in Moscow? To be frank, it is hard to point out one or two specific locations. Because Moscow is a huge metropolitan city, and there are a few streets, which I really love, such as Leninsky Prospekt, Kutuzovsky Prospekt, the Garden Ring Road, but what steals my heart is the site at the Patriarshy Ponds. This area has a lot of energy, and has a romantic and mystical view. Beside the fact that this area is located at the city center, you could find yourself escaping the noisy traffic if the city. Moscow has changed a lot over the last years, what do you like best about this? What I have noticed is that, Moscow is transforming itself more tourist friendly. How? By putting up different signs, billboards, advertising different products, tourist centers etc. in English. Moscow’s memorable sites like, VDNH, Park Gor’govo, and Sokol’niki, now renovated, people see these places with a different view. There has been a major addition to the Moscow’s Metro, where the names of the stations are in English as well; directions have been painted/posted to make it easier for travelers; and new trains, where the map of the Moscow metro now displays the route digitally on the screens in the train, in English. What hidden gem in Moscow can you recommend to our readers? There is a place in Moscow, and few have heard of it. It is the homestead of Russia’s very own Father Frost (in Russia called as Ded Moroz). This site is such a wonderful, memorable, and unique place for everyone, especially children! One can engage in so many activities in this magical winter village. There is an ice rink where many dance festivals are organized. This is a very good opportunity to spend time together as a family, where you could take ice-skates on rent and spend an hour on the rink. Ded Moroz’s granddaughter, Snegurochka, has her home for all to visit. In her home, children can engage in coloring, baking, knitting, and create a little souvenir that they could take along with them.
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Shopping shop in the museum Are you always at the lookout for these Soviet souvenirs, but want to make sure you find the right ones, then this is your place. Rare items from back when the country was hidden behind an Iron Curtain are on sale here, including stamps, postcards and posters with the popular Soviet – we can do it – slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets, tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop!QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.
Gifts and Souvenirs Art Lebedev You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store. artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW Dulyovsky farfor The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to 1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo. ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Gallery Mikhailov For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www. vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
Russian gifts This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ALK Shaltai - Boltay The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AL
Markets Danilovsky QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Dorogomilovsky QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249 55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N Leningradsky Rynok QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N Vernisazh in Izmailovo QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Shopping Centres Atrium QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Evropeysky Shopping Centre QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. AK GUM QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
Prosto Tak They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
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Shopping Art salon on starosadsky This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www. art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
RUSSIAN Souvenirs Platok A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. Shapka ushanka If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home, then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear flaps, called a shapka ushanka. Anything with red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-thetourist points. Valenki Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your skin as you walk. 52 Moscow In Your Pocket
Lotte Plaza QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. LKW Metropolis shopping center QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Novinsky QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797 62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Okhotny Ryad QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AULKW Tsvetnoy Central Market QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW
Bookshops Bookshop Moskva QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Business-Centre Bookbridge QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00. Dom Inostrannoy Knigi QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Respublika QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW
Supermarkets Bakhetle QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A Gum Gastronom №1 QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK Hediard QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Yeliseevsky QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A
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Business directory Accountants and Consultants Awara QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com. Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Deloitte QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. KPMG QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. LowLands QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru. Mega-Intel Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. PricewaterhouseCoopers QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val. 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru. SHR Consulting QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com. The Lighthouse Group QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business associations Association of European Businesses QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@ aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru. Russian-German Chamber of Commerce QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.vdw.ru. The American Chamber of Commerce QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce Q小-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Exhibition and conference centres All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Central exhibition hall Manezh QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums. info/M419. Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre) Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru. Expocentre QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00. Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00. World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC) QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.
Lawyers and notaries TIM Services & TIM Advisers QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.
Recruitment Antal Russia QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com. G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive search QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru. February - March 2015
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Expat & Lifestyle Cultural & Educational Centres
LEARN russian at the liden & denz Dictionary for expats: Curiosity killed the cat Being curious can get you into trouble. We often tell people this in an attempt to warn someone not to ask too many questions about a certain topic, or to stop prying into the affairs of somebody else. However, Russians have a very different way of portraying the same meaning. “Lyubopytnoi Varvare na bazare nos otorvali”. The translation of this peculiar turn of phrase is ‘Nosy Barbara had her nose torn off at the market’, referring to the way in which being intrusive and nosy will only result in an unpleasant situation for you. In other words, as the proverb goes in English, ‘curiosity killed the cat’.
QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www. lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
International Women´s Club OF MOSCOW It’s winter in Moscow and whether you’re new to the city or have been living here for a while, if you’re dreading the cold and short days, why not get out and socialize? No need to spend the white season by yourself! The International Women’s Club of Moscow has a busy schedule: great company, useful advice, and interesting pastimes to get you through the grey and freezing. Pop by one of their Coffee Mornings and check out their website www.iwcmoscow.ru to see what IWC has to offer! And also keep an eye open for their upcoming big event in March: the Embassies of the World Dinner & Ball! 54 Moscow In Your Pocket
The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow are organising many activities for Russians and foreigners. The epicentre is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near Taganskaya metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most of the international centres are located there. British Council QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open 13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canadian Centre QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/ deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Institut Français QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/ russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Neso Russia QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The American Center in Moscow QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat 11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.
International Schools Atlantic International School QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61. QSkolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968 651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru. British International School QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. Little Angels QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru. Montessori School QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A P’tit Cref QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com. The Anglo-American School of Moscow QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, www.aas.ru. The International School of Moscow QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Expat & Lifestyle Expat Contacts AIESEC Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org. American Women’s Organisation Qwww.awomoscow.org. Associazione Signore Italiane a Mosca (Italian Women’s Club) Qasi.mosca@hotmail.com Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) Qwww.gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk. English Language Evenings (ELE) Qwww.ELEMoscow.net. Expat Football League Qwww.moscowfootball.com. EXPATinRUSSIA Qwww.expatinrussia.com. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations Qwww.internations.org. Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club) Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org. Moscow Hash House Harriers Qwww.moscowh3.com. Moscow International Choir Qwww.moscow-international-choir.com. MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com. Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen) Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub. Rotary Club Moscow International Qwww.rcmi.ru. SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association) Qwww.swea.org/moskva.
The Expat Experience On 19th February, the Russian Hospitality Awards ceremony takes place at Moscow’s Lotte Hotel, with a total of 20 awards up for grabs in categories ranging from Best Eco Hotel to Best Hotel Restaurant. We got the host for the evening, Morten Andersen, General Manager of the Lotte, to spare us a few minutes and share his thoughts on the hospitality sector in Moscow and working in Russia in general. You have spent a lot of your hotel management career at properties in SE Asia and the Middle East - what made you make the move to Moscow, and is it all that you expected it to be? This is one of the biggest cities in the world. Hotel business is developing very fast, so to work here is a challenge. I like challenges. All the new places can be a surprise but I didn’t come across anything I couldn’t manage and I enjoy working here very much. Can you name for us three things about living and working in Moscow that you enjoy the most (or least!). I like Moscow, I like walking on the streets, I like parks. We usually go for a walk to the parks with my kids, we also go to skating rings during winter time. Are there any issues you face in your job which are the same, no matter where in the world you find yourself? No, not really. I just want to highlight that in hospitality it is very important to find people with the right attitude, with a passion to serve. The second important thing is to pay a lot of attention to training of the employees in the hotels. It should be a continuous process in all hotels. Do you think that the hotel sector in Moscow will keep growing at the same rate indefinitely? Compare to many world cities Moscow still needs many more international quality hotels. We will see a lot of growth and not only in Moscow but in regions within the next 10 years.
Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.mos@inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
What would your main piece of advice to someone relocating to Russia for the first time? If you are relocating to Moscow make sure your accommodation is near metro station and within a reasonable distance from your work since getting to your office might be very time consuming because of the situation with a traffic.
U vas est visitka? – Do you have a business card? February - March 2015
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Expat & Lifestyle Sanctions: business as usual? During 2014, the EU, the US and a number of countries have imposed sanctions on Russia. The main element is the so called freeze list which contains the names of specific persons and organisations. You are not allowed to do any business with them and their assets must be frozen. Most people on this list are local or national politicians and the chance you encounter them in a business transaction is minimal. The sanctions do, however, also apply to companies which are more than 50% owned by or controlled by sanctioned persons. Companies resident in the EU as well as branches of EU companies and EU citizens are obliged to implement the sanctions. Russian subsidiaries of EU companies in principle fall outside the scope of the sanctions, but if a EU group company exercises active influence on its Russian subsidiary, this company should also apply the sanctions. The idea of these sanctions were to make life difficult for a few selected persons and let business as usual continue for everyone else. But West-European and US banks and insurance companies are very risk averse and may demand documentary evidence that none of the money you bring home from Russia is “contaminated”. De facto, this comes down to reversing the burden of proof. But how do you collect the necessary evidence? The best way is to simply ask the question and check whether you can document the answer with publicly available data. Is it appropriate to ask the question “who owns you?” to your Russian business contact? Not so long ago, questions about the ownership of businesses in Russia were considered grossly inappropriate. However, KYC (Know Your Client) is a concept not at all alien to Russian business culture. In Russia, a limited liability company (OOO) must disclose its participants in the public register (EGRYuL). Joint stock companies (AO) have extensive reporting obligations. They are not only obliged to disclose their shareholders but also their affiliates. “Affiliate” (аффилированное лицо) is a concept from the Russian anti-trust law and looks through any layer of legal entities and even nominal shareholders. Finally, the concept of “ultimate beneficial ownership” is not new in Russia. It was introduced in the beginning of this century when Russia with practically all other countries in the world implemented the FATF (Financial Anti-money laundering Task Force) 40 recommendations. This all means that asking your potential customer or supplier who owns them is a normal question which should not come unexpected to any party acting in good faith. With this information, it is rather straightforward to rule out that such company or person is on the EU or US freeze list or related to it. Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21. 56 Moscow In Your Pocket
Religious Services Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru. Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:30. International Christian Fellowship QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48 01, www.icfmoscow.org. Moscow Buddhist Centre QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/ en. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Moscow Choral Synagogue QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.
Moscow Choral Synagogue
Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. Seventh-Day Adventist Church QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru. Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org. St. Elisabethgemeinde QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Expat & Lifestyle Russian hospitality If you are ever invited to a Russian’s house for dinner, this is most certainly an opportunity you cannot refuse! Consider it an honour and you will experience overwhelming hospitality. Expect to be there for the entire evening, and preferably don’t schedule anything for early the following morning. Russians don’t invite people over for a quick cup of tea & biscuits; they go the full distance and pull out all the stops for guests.
Moving and Relocations AGS FROESCH Russia QProyektiruyemy proezd 4062, bldg. 6, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 99 61, www.agsfroesch.com. Allied Pickfords QVarshavskoe shosse 127a, MYuzhnaya, tel. (+7) 495 796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru. Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group QOtkrytoye shosse 48a, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. +7 (495) 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. N Eolia QUl. Tsandera 4, tel. (+7) 905 551 71 49, www.eoliarelocation.ru. Open 9:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Move One Relocation QC-7, Ul. Krymsky val 3, bldg. 2, off. 503, MOktyabskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 01 64, www.moveoneinc.com.
Charities Children’s Hospital Fund QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44, www.childhospital.ru. Marias Children Art Center QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MPC Social Services Qadministrator@mpcrussia.org, www.mpcss.org. Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www. bbbsrussia.org. Nastenka Foundation QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS, Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 53 77, www.nastenka.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russian Orphan Opportunity Fund - ROOF QPorkhovsky region, village Baranovo 4, tel. (+7) 926 072 05 48, www.roofnet.org. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
It’s polite to bring a gift, such as a bottle of wine or chocolates (preferably from your home country, but locally purchased is fine) plus a bunch of flowers for the lady of the house – stalls selling flowers are on almost every street corner and many are open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year; you can easily buy them on the way. Do remove your shoes upon entering the home as you will be offered a pair of slippers. You arrive to a table groaning under the weight of all the food on it, usually platefuls of sliced meats, various salads, cheese, bread and cold vegetables, but before you get too carried away, this is only the starter! Most likely vodka will be served (cold, and neat, of course) although women may be offered wine or Russian champagne, which is actually a sweet, sparkling wine, called ‘shampanskoe’. Take it easy! Have a swig of a soft drink (of which there will be a jug) after each shot, followed by a little food, but avoid the temptation of stuffing yourself! It is customary for each person to take a short toast when raising the glass, and everyone should hold the glass in the air until the speaker has finished, whereupon everyone knocks the vodka back in one gulp – sipping is for lightweights! When it’s your turn, it’s sufficient to thank the hosts for their invitation and hospitality, and how pleased you are that you had to opportunity to visit their home. Then say something positive about Russia and/or friendship between your two nations; this always goes down well. The main course is likely to be a meat-based dish – there are very relatively few vegetarians anywhere in the CIS, and since meat was often in short supply during Soviet times, the older generation will be somewhat perplexed at how or why you could refuse meat. Even if you’re completely full up, this isn’t the end as a large cake will be brought out, followed by tea & chocolates (konfetki) – it’s OK to pass on the chocs if you’re full to bursting point by this stage! Fortunately this all takes place over several hours so the trick here is to pace yourself. But you’ll have an evening that you won’t forget! Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com February - March 2015
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St. Petersburg Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year.
sightseeing
getting there There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 66), and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.
Luxury Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:53. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru
58 Moscow In Your Pocket
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Kazan Cathedral QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Russian Museum QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
modern art centres Anna Nova Art Gallery QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. Erarta QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. Marina Gisich Gallery QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Novy musey QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. ROSPHOTO QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. moscow.inyourpocket.com
St. Petersburg HOTELS Angleterre Hotel QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms. hhhhh Grand Hotel Europe QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. hhhhh Hotel Astoria QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. hhhhh Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh
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Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel QNab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www. courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QLigovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh
shopping centres Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK DLT Department store QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral足teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW GALERIA QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK Nevsky Centre QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AKW Passage QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00. AK
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Murmansk
In the land of the reindeer: Russia beyond the Arctic Murmansk Region, part of Russia’s Arctic North, has been back in the headlines after Andrei Zvyagintsev’s Golden Globe winner ‘Leviathan’ was filmed there in the remote coastal village of Teriberka and the lakeside city of Kirovsk. But this wild land of stark beauty has a rich history, steeped in the traditions of the native Saami people, and this is celebrated in March’s ‘Festival of the North’ when the reindeer herders descend on the remote settlement of Lovozero to race their sledges across the snowy wastes and celebrate the beginning of the spring as the sun gleams off a pristine white landscape. The festival is a colourful event with reindeer racing at its heart. As the competition gets underway, a cloud of snow emerges from the far horizon. As it gets closer, the spectators respond with whoops, yodels and roars of encouragement. From a blur of motion four reindeer emerge, prodded into hauling their sledge faster and faster. Bells tinkle as the finish line nears. The flag drops, and the driver’s time is announced, prompting discussions among the crowd. The driver, resplendent in thigh-length reindeer-skin boots, dismounts and waits to see what his rivals can do while the animals rest at last, tongues lolling as their breath steams into the Arctic air. Lovozero is the heart of Russian Lapland. In this small community roughly 200 km south of Murmansk, the population of 2,800 treats the reindeer as a badge of identity. It prances from the sign on the main road, it stands proud on the village crest. Business cards introduce their owners as an ‘Olenovod’ – reindeer driver. Fashions include jackets and boots with reindeer motifs, reindeer skins are used for both clothing and to insulate homes, while antlers serve as decoration, storage racks or are carved into jewelry and ornaments. A stall selling reindeer meat – as prime cuts, sausage or tinned, stewed ‘tushyonka’ – does a lively trade. 60 Moscow In Your Pocket
Local people might prefer to zip around on snowmobiles these days, and indeed the prize for the supreme champion of the festival was a state-of-the-art model that gleamed next to the stage, but the word on the streets remains ‘olen’, reindeer. The festival itself is a relatively modern affair, established as recently as 1934 as the USSR pursued one of its ‘friendship between brotherly peoples’ phases. The traditions date back much further, though, and Russia’s national holiday for reindeer herders is timed to coincide with the vernal equinox, making it a loose parallel to other festivals like the Slavic Maslenitsa or Turkic Novruz celebrated in other regions of this vast country. To suit Soviet tastes the current celebrations are largely stripped of their shamanic, animistic rituals and repackaged as a sporting and cultural event. Apart from the reindeer, there’s also a cross-country skiing race that attracted a team from Norway to last year’s event, a friendly ice hockey clash between teams from Lovozero and nearby Revda and ‘winter football’, an ice-bound version of 5-a-side that isn’t for the faint-hearted. Local folk choirs and dancers perform throughout the weekend as the whole community shrugs off temperatures that are still some way below freezing and comes out to play. But there’s more to Russian Lapland than this festival. Not far from Lovozero a Ski-Doo or boat tour (depending on the weather) takes explorers to the still, silent Seydozero. For the Saami this is a sacred place, watched over by a gigantic humanoid figure picked out on a sheer rock face. This is the Kujva, a giant with both legendary and prosaic explanations. Scientists talk of geological formations and odd colourings in the rock; romantics believe it is the spirit of a great warrior-hero set into the rock face to keep a watchful eye on the Saami and their reindeer – and to return to life and repel any danger. Even if the mysticism doesn’t appeal the wild, untamed scenery is guaranteed to impress, especially in the winter months when the lake freezes and is buried under a vast layer of untouched snow and the mountains rise all around. The clear polar skies make it a wonderful place for photography. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Murmansk Language While Russian is the language of everyday use, Saami can also be found. It’s relatively rarely spoken, but frequently found on maps of the region, echoing faintly through place-names – Lovozero is also known as ‘Lujavr’, with ‘javr’ being a Finno-ugric counterpart for the Russian ‘ozero’, or ‘lake’. ‘Tirvas’, a Saami greeting, is a popular name for hotels and guest-houses, ski complexes adopt Finnish names, tortuously rendered into baffling blocks of Cyrillic text – ‘Kukisvumchorr’ is perhaps the region’s biggest – but those Saami slopes are reached by driving through the stolidly Soviet town of Kirovsk, the setting for several scenes in ‘Leviathan’ and turning left at the end of Prospekt Lenina.
The festival of the North The festival takes place each year on the penultimate weekend of March, so the 2015 edition will be on 21-22 March. The official opening is usually around 11:00 on the Saturday and the first of the reindeer heats starts at midday. A full schedule usually appears on the Lovozerye website closer to the big day (www.lovozerie.ru).
Where to stay Accommodation in Lovozero can be limited, with the town’s advertised hotels proving difficult to contact. Various ‘turbaza’ complexes, small holiday camps, are dotted around the shores of Lovozero’s vast lake. Most of them are inaccessible by road, and can only be reached by snowmobile in winter and boat in the summer. It’s a spectacular journey into the wilderness, but one that requires guests to forget about mobile reception or Wi-Fi connections and instead form a link with the beauties of the natural world. Viktor Barakovsky, who runs the familyowned ‘Medvezhy Ugol’ (Bear Corner) camp offers a wide range of tours and activities around the area, from trips to the Festival of the North to a traditional Saami wedding (which also involves, you guessed it, a reindeer to greet the happy couple by the sacred waters of Seydozero). Accommodation can be in small tents lined with reindeer skins and kept toasty warm by a blazing log fire, or in larger wooden dorms suitable for families. Communal meals in the central wigwam-style tent are sociable affairs, with a steady flow of vodka overcoming any language barriers before long. More details can be found at www.lovozero.ru. Other places to stay around the lake include the Russian Lapland (www.ruslaplandia.ru) and Julinskaya Salma (www.lovozero.net) camps.
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Getting There Getting to the heart of Russian Lapland isn’t easy – it lies right on the geographical centre of the Kola Peninsula, far from region’s main cities. The two nearest airports serving Moscow are Murmansk (regular daily flights, flight time 3 hour) and Apatity (two flights a week with Severstal Avia), both of which are about 200km from the settlement itself. A taxi ride will run somewhere in the region of 3,000Rbl. Of the two access points, Murmansk is perhaps the more attractive. Maritime buffs will enjoy a tour of the ‘Lenin’, the world’s first nuclear-powered icebreaker, now a museum in the harbour. The ‘Alyosha’ monument, towering over the city, is a popular landmark commemorating the sailors who served here during the war when Murmansk was a vital port handling supplies coming in on the Arctic Convoys. The town also has some surprisingly good restaurants, with service and prices rather more attractive than most Moscow options. There’s gentle downhill skiing on offer at the ‘Ogni Murmansk’ complex on the edge of town, and decent accommodation is also available here. Apatity and nearby Kirovsk are both industrial towns built around mining with few obvious attractions. There are skiing and hiking options in the Khibiny hills – some of which attract families from Moscow during the season if the Friday morning flight to Apatity is anything to go by – and a quirky ‘ice village’ on the outskirts of Kirovsk but a lot of local hotel accommodation is firmly rooted in the Soviet era. February - March 2015
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Street register 1905 Goda ul. Akademika Sakharova pr. Alexandra Nevskogo ul. Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. Apakova pr. Arbat ul. Armyansky per. Bakhrushina ul. Balchug ul. Bernikovskaya nab. Bersenevskaya nab. Bobrov per. Bogoyavlensky per. Bol. Afanasyevsky per. Bol. Balkansky per. Bol. Bronnaya ul. Bol. Dmitrovka ul. Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. Bol. Karetny per. Bol. Kazenny per. Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. Bol. Kiselny per. Bol. Kislovsky per. Bol. Kozikhinsky per. Bol. Kozlovsky per. Bol. Levshinsky per. Bol. Lubyanka ul. Bol. Molchanovka ul. Bol. Nikitskaya ul. Bol. Ordynka ul. Bol. Palashevsky per. Bol. Patriarshy per. Bol. Polyanka ul. Bol. Sadovaya ul. Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. Bol. Spasskaya ul. Bol. Staromonetny per. Bol. Strochenovsky per. Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. Bol. Sukharevsky per. Bol. Tatarskaya ul. Bol. Tatarsky per. Bol. Tishinsky per. Bol. Vlasyevsky per. Bol. Yakimanka ul. Bol. Znamensky per. Bolotnaya nab. Bolotnaya pl. Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) Brestskaya ul. (1ya) Brestskaya ul. (2ya) Brodnikov per. Butikovsky per. Chayanova ul. Chistoprudny bul. Chisty per. Delegatskaya ul. Dobryninsky per. (1y) Dokuchaev per. Dolgorukovskaya ul. Dubininskaya ul. Durasovsky per. Durova ul. Ermolaevsky per. Eropkinsky per. Fadeeva ul. Filippovsky per. Furmanny per. Gagarinsky per. Gazetny per. Gilyarovskogo ul. Glazovsky per. Gogolevsky bul. Golikovsky per.
A-1/2 D-1/2 Đ?/B-1 E-4 C-4 B-3 D-2 D-5 D-3/4 E-3 C-4 D-2 C/D-3 B-3/4 D-1 B-2 C-2 A-4 A-1/2 C-1 E-2 E-2 C/D-2 C-3 B-2 E-2 B-4 D-2 B-3 B/C-3 D-4/5 B-2 B-2 C-4/5 B-1/2 C/D-5 E-1 C-4 D-5 D-1 D-1 D-4/5 D-5 A-1 B-4 C-5 B-3/4 C-4 C-4 A-3/4 A-3 A/B-1 A/B-1 C-4/5 B-4 B-1 D/E-2 B-4 C-1 C-5 D-1 B-1 D-5 E-3 C-1 B-2 B-4 B-1 B-3 E-2 B-4 C-2/3 D-1 A/B-4 B-3/4 D-4
66 Moscow In Your Pocket
Golutvinsky per. (1y) Goncharnaya nab. Goncharnaya ul. Goncharny per. (2y) Gorokhovsky per. Granatny per. Grokholsky per. Gusyatnikov per. Ilinka ul. Ipatyevsky per. Kadashevskaya nab. Kadashevsky per. (1y) Kalanchevskaya ul. Kalashny per. Kazachy per. (1y) Kazachy per. (2y) Kazakova ul. Kazansky per. Kazarmeny per. Khilkov per. Khlebny per. Khokhlovsky per. Khvostov per. (1y) Kievskaya ul. Klimentovsky per. Kolpachny per. Kompozitorskaya ul. Komsomolskaya pl. Komsomolsky pr. Konyushkovskaya ul. Koptelsky per. (1y) Korobeynikov per. Korovy Val ul. Kosmodamianskaya nab. Kostyansky per. Kotelnicheskaya nab. Kotelnichesky per. (1y) Kozitsky per. Krasina ul. Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) Krasnaya presnya ul. Krasnopresnenskaya nab. Krasnoproletarskaya ul. Krasnoprudnaya ul. Kremlevskaya nab. Krivokolenny per. Kropotkinsky per. Krutitsky per. (3y) Krutitskaya nab. Krymskay nab. Krymsky proezd Krymsky Val. Kursovoy per. Kutuzovsky pr. Kuznetsky most ul. Lavrsky per. Lavrushinsky per. Leninsky pr. Leontievsky per. Lesnaya ul. Lubyansky proezd Lyalin per. Mal. Bronnaya ul. Mal. Dmitrovka ul. Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. Mal. Karetny per. Mal. Kozikhinsky per. Mal. Nikitskaya ul. Mal. Ordynka ul. Mal. Polyanka ul. Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. Mal. Yakimanka ul. Mal. Znamensky per. Manezhnaya pl. Manezhnaya ul. Marksistskaya ul.
C-4 E-4 E-4 E-4 E-2 B-2 D-1 D-2 C-3 D-3 C-4 C-4 E-1 B-3 C-5 C-5 E-2 C-5 E-3 B-4 B-3 D/E-3 C-5 A-4 D-4 D-2/3 A/B-3 E-1 F-6 A-2/3 D-1 B-4 C-5 D/E-4 D-1 D/E-4 D-4 C-2 A/B-1, B-2 C-3 A-2 A-3 B-1 E-1 C-3 D-2 B-4 E-5 E-5 B-5 B-5 B/C-5 B/C-4 A-3 C/D-2 C-1 C-4 F-6 B-2 A-1 D-2 E-2/3 B-2 B-1/2 A-2 C-1 B-2 B-2 D-4/5 C-5 D-1 C-4 B/C-3 C-3 C-3 E-4
Maronovsky per. Maroseyka ul. Mashkova ul. Merzlyakovsky per. Milyutinsky per. Miusskaya pl. Mohovaya ul. Molochny per. Monetchikovsky per. (2y) Monetchikovsky per. (3y) Monetchikovsky per. (5y) Monetchikovsky per. (6y) Moskvoretskaya nab. Myasnitskaya ul. Mytnaya ul. Neglinnaya ul. Nikitsky bul. Nikitsky per. Nikoloyamskaya ul. Nikolskaya ul. Nikolsky per. N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. N. Krasnoselskaya ul. Novaya Basmannaya ul. Novaya pl. Novinsky bul. Novokrymsky pr. Novokuznetskaya ul. Novokuznetsky per. (1y) Novokuznetsky per. (2y) Novoryazanskaya ul. Novy Arbat ul. Obydensky per. (2y) Okhotny ryad ul. Olimpiysky pr. Ostozhenka ul. Ovchinnikovskaya nab. Ozerkovskaya nab. Ozerkovsky per. Paveletskaya pl. Petrovka ul. Petrovsky bul. Petrovsky per. Pyzhevsky per. Pl. Nikitskie Vorota Plotnikov per. Plyushchikha ul. Podkolokolny per. Podsosensky per. Pogorelsky per. Pokrovka ul. Pokrovsky bul. Pomerantsev per. Posledny per. Potapovsky per. Povarskaya ul. Pozharsky per. Prechistenskaya nab. Prechistensky per. Presnensky val ul. Prospekt Mira Pushechnaya ul. Pushkinskaya nab. Pushkinskaya pl. Pyatnitskaya ul. Pevchesky per. Raushskaya nab. Romanov per. Rozhdestvenka ul. Rozhdestvensky bul. Runovsky per. Rybny per. Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.
C-5 D-2/3 E-2 B-3 D-2 B-1 C-3 B-4 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-3 D-2 C-5 C-2 B-3 C-2/3 E-3/4 C-2/3 D-3 E-4/5 E-1 E-1 D-2 A-2/3 B-5 D-4/5 D-5 D-5 E-1 A/B-3 B-4 C-2/3 C-1 B-4/5 D-4 D-4 D-4 D-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-2 C-4 B-2 B-3 A-4 E-3 E-3 C-5 D/E-2 E-3 B-4 D-1 D-2 B-2/3 B-4 C-4 B-4 A-1/2 D-1 C/D-2 B-5 C-2 D-4 D-3 D-3 C-3 C-2 C/D-2 D-4 C-3 B/C-1 A/B-2 E-1/2 B-1
Sadovnicheskaya ul. Sadovnichesky proezd Samotyochnaya ul. Serebryanicheskaya nab. Shchepkina ul. Sivtsev Vrazhek per. Skatertny per. Smolensky bul. Smolenskaya ul. Sofiyskaya nab. Soymonovsky proezd Solyanka ul. Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) Spiridonovka ul. Spiridonyevsky per. Sretenka ul. Sretensky bul. Stanislavskogo ul. Staraya pl. Starokonyushenny per. Staromonetny per. Starosadsky per. Stary Tolmachevsky per. Stoleshnikov per. Stolyarny per. Strastnoy bul. Sushchevskaya ul. Sytinsky per. Tarasa Shevchenko nab. Tatarskaya ul. Teatralny proezd Teterinsky per. Triumfalnaya pl. Trubnaya ul. Trubnikovsky per. Tryokhprudny per. Tsvetnoy bul. Tverskaya ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. Tverskoy bul. Usacheva ul. Ustyinsky pr. Valovaya ul. Varsonofyevsky per. Varvarka ul. Vasilyevsky spusk pl. Vasilyevskaya ul. Vasnetsova per. V. Radishchevskaya ul. V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. Volhonka ul. Vorontsovo pole Vorontsovskaya ul. Vozdvizhenka ul. Voznesensky per. Vspolny per. Yakimanskaya nab. Yakimansky proezd Yauzsky bul. Zemlyanoy Val ul. Zhitnaya ul. Zhukovskogo ul. Znamenka ul. Zoologicheskaya ul.
D-3/4 D-3 C-1 E-3 D-1 B-3 B-2/3 A-4 A-4 C-3 B-4 D-3 C-5 B-2 B-2 D-1 C-1 C-2 C-3 B-3/4 C-4 D-2/3 D-4 C-2 A-2 C-1/2 B-1 B-2 A-3 D-5 C-2 E-4 B-1 C-1 A/B-3 B-2 C-1 B-1/2 A/B-1 B -2 F-6 D-3/4 D-5 C/D-2 C-3 D-3 A/B-1 C-1 E-4 E-3 C-3/4 E-3 E-4/5 B/C-3 B-2 B-2 C-4 C-4 E-3 E-2/3/4
C-5 E-2 B/C-3 A-1/2
Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya
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